Florence News & Events Dec. - Nov. by FLORENCENEWSEVENTS

page 2 Florence Biennale comes of age

page 3 127 new selfportraits in the Vasari Corridor

page 22

page 20 & 30 Christmas markets in Florence & Euriope

Fairytales on ice

Pizza

sfizi e delizie

Lunch: 12-3p.m. Delivery service From: 7-11p.m. 055 38 60 311

www.florencenewsevents.com NOVEMBER & DECEMBER 2013, No.3

Via Pietrapiana, 82/r Piazza Duomo, 5/r

Lighting up the festive season

From Hanukkah and Thanksgiving to Christmas and New Year LUCY DAVID As winter descends on the city, Florence lights up with seasonal festivities. Hanukkah, the Jewish Festival of Light, sets the tone on November 27 with the lighting of its first commemorative candle, while Thanksgiving follows on November 28 in a rare conjunction of the two celebrations. Florence’s Christmas markets set the city’s piazzas and buildings aglow from the end of November, with the annual German Christmas market at Santa Croce and

Florence Nöel fair at Stazione Leopolda setting up shop from November 28, and Italian Red Cross market at Teatro Obihall from November 29 to December 1.An ideal location for browsing sought-after ‘Made in Italy’ Christmas gifts before the Christmas rush, the Florence Creativity: Handmade in Italy fair takes place at Fortezza da Basso from November 21–24. The theme of gift-giving also extends to Florence’s bed-and-breakfasts as Barter Week (November 18–24) sees participating venues offer accommodation in ex-

change for a range of goods and services, from home-made jam to music lessons, in order to counter the effects of the credit crunch. MaggioDanza artistic director Giorgio Mancini introduces the Christmas theme with a contemporary version of The Nutcracker, which is performed at Teatro Comunale over the Christmas and New Year period with a special children’s matinee on December 20. It may not be a white Christmas but the city puts its skates on regardless with the

opening of Florence’s annual skating rink at Parterre near Piazza Libertá (November 25 – January 6), where colored lights and festive music accompany up to 200 skaters at a time. Aspiring skaters can catch Russian ice stars performing Beauty and the Beast (November 22) and join the Lost Boys in Neverland with Peter Pan (November 24) at Nelson Mandela Forum. For those kids who have grown up, Florence Biennale marks its coming of age at Fortezza da Basso from November 30

to December 8. Now in its 18th year, the event comprises numerous contemporary art exhibitions and performance pieces, focusing on contemporary artists under 30. Outside Florence, San Gimignano’s medieval skyscraper skyline erupts in a spectacle of sound and color entitled San Gimignano Lumiere, transforming the city into an open-air theater from 6 p.m. till midnight from December 6 to 8, as a harbinger of the New Year’s Eve fireworks and revelries to come.

Florence Marathon on Nov. 24

Celebrating Thanksgiving

ModaPrima on Nov. 22 - 24

continued on page 5

continued on page 10

continued on page 19

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013

EXHIBITION NEWS Florence News & Events is the monthly supplement to www.theitaliannewspaper.com Florence News & Events is distributed throughout Florence in all key reference points for the Englishspeaking community, including hotels and hostels, universities and language schools, libraries, tourist information points, restaurants and cafes. EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: LORENZO PICCHI EDITOR: LUCY DAVID EDITORIAL ASSISTANT: IVANA SCATOLA GRAPHIC & WEB DESIGN: NAZ KANGAL Graphic assistants: Ekaterina Chebotareva, Nikita Kulikov and Dilveen Omar. This month's contributors: Lee Foust, Sarah Humphreys, Avani Kapur, Dylan Nikoletopoulos, Emily Outtarac, Juliet Stephenson, James Taylor and Silvia Zanella. Publisher: IAF Print: Nuova Cesat SRL Via B. Buozzi 21, 50145, Firenze

Intern With Us Florence News & Events is currently seeking outgoing and motivated candidates for its internship program. Interns will be exposed to all facets of weekly production, including news writing, photography, layout, advertising, public relations, circulation and graphic arts. Students currently studying art history, communications, journalism, marketing, advertising, public relations or graphic design are encouraged to apply. Please submit resume and writing samples to: info@florencenewsevents.com

info@florencenewsevents.com SKYPE: FLORENCENEWSEVENTS

Find us on Twitter

Florence Biennale Where photography meets poetry comes of age Ivana Scatola 2013 marks the ninth edition of the Florence Biennale and an impressive 18 years over which the event has occurred. Entitled Ethics: DNA of Art, the principal objective of this self-financed, independent platform for art is to celebrate contemporary art by uniting artists from all over the world in the heart of Florence. The Biennale takes place from November 30 to December 8 at Fortezza da Basso with hundreds of artistic works and installations on display. It gives particular attention to young contemporary artists under 30 years of age by offering a series of seminars and lectures with internationally renowned artists, creative workshops, presentations and didactic programs in order to nurture their artistic progress. The 2013 edition introduces a new feature, in which a message is interpreted by an artist chosen for their personality and capacity to embody it. Pasquale Celona, visual artist as well as president of the Florence Biennale, performs this edition’s message by interpreting a phrase by Swiss painter Paul Klee: “In my veins runs the blood of a better time.” The event aims to strengthen links with the city of Florence by introducing refreshing contemporary art installations and performances to historic Renaissance locations, in a beautiful marriage of two completely differing periods. LINEA Spazio Arte Contemporanea, a contemporary art museum in Florence created

@FNEFlorence

FLORENCENEWSEVENTS

by the organizers of the Biennale with the vision of having a permanent space in the city dedicated to contemporary art and culture, also commemorates the Biennale’s coming of age by displaying 18 works – one for each year the event has seen. The Biennale has also been nicknamed the ‘New Florence Biennale’ due to its innovative angle. This has been inspired by principles outlined in the Charter of the Artists of the New Millennium, a document presented at the 33rd Congress of UNESCO World Heritage Centers at Palazzo Vecchio in March, which the Biennale considers vital to its focus and direction. This title is fitting in the event’s promotion of respect and equality among contemporary artists across the world, something that earned the Bien- Ivana Scatola Nazis but later freed by the French Renale official recognition by the United sistance. After his liberation he joined in Nations in 2001 as an official partner of The IZIS: the Poet of Photography exhibi- the underground fighting, and it was here the UN program Dialogue Among Civi- tion at the National Alinari Photography where his career began by capturing pholizations. With this title, the event hopes Museum traces the story of Lithuanian tos of his peers. to rouse some reflection on the connec- photographer Israëlis Bdermanas. Also This exhibition displays 120 of his works tion between ethics and art, and this rela- known as ‘Izis’, Bdermanas is considered edited by his son Manuel Bidermanas tionship’s role in art in the contemporary one of the most prominent humanist pho- with Armelle Canitrot, which follow world. tographers of the post-war period. Izis’s life and his search for ‘the dream.’ Bdermanas escaped from home at just 19 The sharp use of light and its sensitivity years old to make a new start and fulfil is a prominent feature in his works, as Florence Biennale his dreams in mighty Paris, which he well as the consistency between subject, had greatly admired from the work of emotion and form in all of his photos, November 30 – December 8 his favourite Impressionist artists. In his which leads to a noted ‘poetic’ feel in the Fortezza da Basso 1950 book Paris of Dreams, in which he collection. 10 a.m.–8 p.m. displayed his works and asked authors Cost: €10 (full); €8 (reduced) to write short stories to accompany them, info@florencebiennale.org IZIS: the Poet of www.florencebiennale.org Izis wrote, “Why Paris? Because Paris Photography excited my imagination. It was the City of Lights. It seemed to me that everything Until January 6, 2014 was happening in Paris. In 1930, London, Alinari National Museum of New York or Berlin didn’t interest me. Photography We were attracted to France as a country Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 14a r full of spirit. Liberty, Equality of man Open daily except Wednesday: 10 a.m.–6:30 p.m. and Culture – that’s what made us dream.” Cost: €9; reduced: €7:50 During World War II, as a young Jewwww.alinari.it/en ish man, he was arrested and tortured by

IZIS on display until January 6

Exhibit explores unstable territories

pITTA M'INGOLLI Winner of the Travellers’ Choice Award by Trip Advisor

BREAKFAST, LIGHT LUNCH AND APERITVO IN SANTO SPIRITO

Winner of the Travellers’ Choice Award by Trip Advisor for the best restaurants in Florence, Osteria di Santo Spirito is located in Piazza Santo Spirito right across from the Church. The unique restaurant is well-known among the locals of the area and fits well into the district full of Florence craftsmen, artisans and small shops. The style of the restaurant is rustic and elegant allowing guests to take in the wonderful atmosphere while dining. The menu offers traditional authentic Tuscan cuisine. Seasonal Outdoor seating is also available. The Osteria is open all day long and offers both lunch and dinner.

Located in Piazza Santo Spirito, Pitta M’Ingolli offers a typical Italian breakfast, traditional sandwiches and salads for a light lunch and cold cuts for a delicious dinner. At weekends Pitta M’Ingolli becomes the perfect place to sit back with an aperitivo and enjoy the lively nightlife of Santo Spirito.

Piazza Santo Spirito, 16/r 055 23 82 383 www.osteriasantospirito.it

Mon. – Thu.: 6:30 a.m – 8:30 p.m. Fri. – Sun.: until 2:30 a.m.

Piazza Santo Spirito, 17/r 055 26 42 56

Juliet Stephenson Unstable Territory: Borders and identity in contemporary art reconsiders the idea of territories in modern art in a showcase of works by international artists at the Strozzina. The works in the exhibit examine the different lifestyles and ways of perceiving the relationship between territory and identity in the modern era: where we are now without borders. As new technology makes migration and globalization easier, it changes people’s concepts of their territories, boundaries and borders. The exhibit goes even further to change the meaning of ‘territory’, with artists exploring concepts of social and cultural belonging as well as the traditional geographic sense. Photographs, videos, and installations look at the notion of the border as discovery or barrier from the artist’s perspective as a nomad or traveler. The exhibit also looks at artists Paulo Nazareth and Sigalit Landau’s relationships with their own body and its territories. Nazareth traveled from Brazil to the United States on foot, and his artwork tells his journey. It looks at his multi-ethnic identity, linguistic misunderstandings and ironic encounters. Landau’s performances, entitled DeadSee and Barbed Hula, look at symbolic and physical boundaries, as well as the juxtaposition between life and death, and

the achievement and loss of identity. The exhibition also presents a video entitled The Right of Passage by Oliver Ressler and Zanny Begg, which looks at civil rights and national identity. It examines the passport as the most important legal tool for travel, and features interviews with various people and the difficulty of obtaining basic political rights. An exhibition catalogue is also available in English, featuring critical essays from curators Walter Guadagnini and Franziska Nori, and texts from Ulrich Beck (Munich University and London School of Economics) and Francesco Careri (Rome University).

Unstable Territory: Borders and identity in contemporary art Until Jan 19, 2014 Centre for Contemporary Culture Strozzina Palazzo Strozzi Tuesday – Sunday: 10 a.m.–8 p.m.; Thursday: 10 a.m.–11 p.m. www.strozzina.org/en The exhibit also runs in conjunction with The Russian Avant-garde, Siberia and the East exhibition, with special twin tickets are available for €10 (full price) and €5 (student).

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013 No. 3

FLORENCE NEWS

Vasari Corridor under the gaze of 127 new self-portraits The final stretch of the Vasari Corridor is now home to 127 newly exhibited self-portraits by Italian and foreign artists, bringing the number of artworks on view along the corridor to 527. Drawn from the Uffizi Gallery’s permanent collection of more than 600 self-portraits – the oldest collection of its kind in the world – the artworks showcase twentieth-century artists and are wrought from various mediums, including painting, stone, bronze, plastic and photography. The exhibition is part of the Uffizi’s plan to bring more of its impressive collection to light, which has swelled considerably as a result of acquisitions made over the past 30 years, notably its 400th anniversary celebrations in 1981 and 1983, and

acquisition of the Raimondo Rezzonico collection in 2005. The Vasari Corridor traces a route through the rooftops of Florence from Palazzo Vecchio, across the Ponte Vecchio to Palazzo Pitti. It was designed by Vasari in 1565 on the orders of Cosimo I de’ Medici to commemorate the marriage of his son Francesco to Joanna of Austria. Created to allow safe passage for the Medici duke and his family between their residence at Palazzo Pitti and the government offices at Palazzo Vecchio, high above the butchers’ knives and plebian crowds on the Ponte Vecchio below, the corridor stretches for more than a kilometer and showcases a collection of artworks from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

Italo-Hungarian culture showcased

Enjoy autumn’s nippy afternoons indoors with free guided art tours. Autunno ad Arte wraps up on November 26, so be quick.

The Grand Prince: Ferdinando de’ Medici (1663–1713), collector and patron of the artsa

Exhibitions held at San Marco and the Uffizi Silvia Zanella In the year of Italian culture in Hungary and vice versa, Florence hosts two exhibitions that explore the countries’ cultural links: Mattia Corvino e Firenze: Art and humanism at the court of the king of Hungary and The Hungarian Self-Portraits at the Uffizi. The exhibitions are the result of a 2008 commitment between the two nations to mark 2013 as a year of Italo-Hungarian culture, with the objective of highlighting their common roots in art, music, theater, cinema, literature, science and design. Mattia Corvino e Firenze: Art and humanism at the court of the king of Hungary is located at the museum of San

Mattia Corvino e Firenze: Art and humanism at the court of the king of Hungary Until January 6, 2014 Museum of San Marco Monday – Friday: 8:15 a.m.–1:50 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday: 8:15 a.m.–4:50 p.m. Cost: €7; reduced: €3 www.polomuseale.firenze.it

Marco, the ‘temple’ of humanism, and is focused upon the library designed by Michelozzo for Cosimo I de’ Medici in 1444. The exhibition highlights the parallels between Mattia Corvino, the king of Hungary, and Lorenzo the Magnificent of Florence, presenting the the achievements of the two protagonists in a physically symmetrical space and tracing the birth of humanism in Hungary. In the second half of the fifteenth century Florence was able, through its artists, to make its culture and Renaissance art known to the Hungarian court. The Hungarian Self-Portraits at the Uffizi focuses upon the contribution of Hungarian culture and art to Florence. Largely drawn from paintings that were donated to the gallery between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, the exhibition demonstrates that the bridge opened by Lorenzo il Magnifico and Mattia Corvino can still be crossed today.

Palazzo Pitti is currently hosting 12 masterpieces by groundbreaking Impressionist artists, including Degas, Monet, Cézanne, Renoir, Pisarro and Guigou in an exhibition that includes such prominent works as Cézanne’s The Blue Vase and Renoir’s Gabrielle with a Rose. The collection is drawn from Paris’s Musée d’Orsay and has been conceived in gratitude to Palazzo Pitti, after its contributions to the Musée de l’Orangerie made its exhibition, Les Macchiaioli 1850–1874. Des impressionnistes italiens? (‘The Macchiaioli 1850–1874: Italian Impressionists?’) possible. Earlier this year 19 works of art by the so-called ‘Macchiaioli’, Tuscan art pioneers who broke new ground in the late 1800s with a style that composed artworks using ‘macchie’ or marks, and a precious diary by Telemaco Signorini spent three months in France. A highlight of both exhibitions is the synchrony and intercultural exchange between French and Italian artists in the late 1800s, a theme that also resonates in the collaboration: “This extraordinary event is the result of an exchange between two of the most important French and Italian artistic institutions,” said Cristina Acidini, Superintendent of Polomuseale Fiorentino. In return, Tuscans will now be able to admire French chef d’oeuvres until January 5, 2014. The artworks are displayed in two parts: ‘Open Air’ displays representations of the exterior: landscapes and the relationship with light and its effect that the Impression-

ists were so fascinated by. Artworks on show include a female nude study by Renoir from 1875-76; works by Pissaro, including The Approaching of the Storm and Path Through the Woods in Summer (both from 1877); Paul Guigou’s Washerwoman (1860) and Monet’s Les Tuileries (1875) and The Seine at Port-Villez (1890). The second part of the exhibition, entitled ‘Interiors’, presents figures in interior settings, such as Degas’ renowned Ballet Rehearsal on Stage (1874), and then moves on to still-life works, such as Cèzanne’s The Blue Vase (1889-90) and Renoir’s Gabrielle with a Rose (1911). The Impressionist movement is one of the most iconic in the history of French art. The style arose out of a departure from conventional methods of painting and an approach towards the transcription of visual reality and modern subjects. Impressionist art captured ‘moments’, snippets of time in the everyday world as opposed to the perfect, timeless scene. It thus subverted traditional artistic codes and revolutionised painting style with an innovative and (at the time), radically small, short brushstroke technique.

Impressionists at Palazzo Pitti: 12 masterpieces from Musee d'Orsay Until January 5, 2014 Palazzo Pitti Tickets: Full price: €13; reduced: €6.50

Edgar Degas, Répétition sur la scène (1874)

Thursday, November 14 & 28 At 3:30 p.m. Uffizi Gallery

Nerli Chapel

Church of Santo Spirito Tuesday, November 19 At 10:30 a.m. Santo Spirito

Impressionists at Palazzo Pitti: 12 masterpieces from MusEe d’Orsay

Tuesday, November 12 at 10:30 a.m. Tuesday, November 26 at 3:30 p.m. Gallery of Modern Art, Palazzo Pitti

Accademia Gallery Thursday, November 21 at 3 p.m.

The Hungarian SelfPortraits at the Uffizi Until November 30 San Pier Scheraggio, Uffizi Gallery Tuesday – Friday: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Entrance is free www.polomuseale.firenze.it

Musée d’Orsay makes an impression on Florence Ivana Scatola

Free museum tours with Autunno ad Arte

Autunno ad Arte

Free guided tours of selected exhibitions Bookings are necessary: 055 284272 or email didattica@polomuseale. firenze.it Cost: normal ticket entry Tours are designed for adults.

exclusive offer international plan International Prepaid Sim To call Italy and other 94 countries 15 prepaid+call traffic +4 weeks of internet FREE!

€20

A BOOKWORM’S HAVEN IN THE HEART OF FLORENCE An English-language bookshop tucked away near the Duomo, Paperback Exchange has welcomed expat bookworms into its cosy interior since 1979. Shelves of fiction, non-fiction, Italian and English classics, children’s and Italian-interest books line the walls, with both new and used titles to pore over. Bring in your old books to exchange for unread titles or build up store points towards a discount.

Mon. – Fri.: 9 a.m. – 7:30 p.m. Sat.: 10:30 a.m. – 7:30 p.m. Sun.: Closed Via delle Oche, 4/r 055 29 34 60 www.papex.it papex@papex.it

International Prepaid Sim 15 prepaid+call traffic +UNLOCKED Phone Samsung E1280 Color Screen & Battery Charger

€39

Data Prepaid Sim UNLOCKED key 14,4 Mbps FREE! Internet for 2 months 15GB per month

€54

Contact “When in Florence” For more information Via Verdi, 46/r Or the TIM shop in Via Gioberti 142/r

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013

FLORENCE NEWS

Florence Creativity returns on Nov. 21

Our warmest autumn or coldest winter?

Reports that Europe is set to experience its coldest winter in 100 years have been challenged by recent Italian weather reports predicting spring-like conditions as late as December. “November, like October, will be a month marked by conditions decidedly closer to the period of spring than autumn,” says Massimiliano Pasqui, National Research

Council Institute of Biometeorology (Cnr-Ibimet) researcher. “Even the first part of December will be characterized by abnormally warm [temperatures] for the season.” The reason for the unusual conditions is believed to be a hot wind from Africa that continues to affect the Mediterranean. The news comes in the wake of

widespread media reports that Europe would face its coldest winter in a century, to which the UK Met Office responded by stating: “The science simply does not exist to make detailed, long-term forecasts for temperature and snowfall even for the end of November, let alone for the winter period, which does not officially start until December 1.”

Exhibition displays Italian handicrafts Sarah Humphreys Fortezza da Basso hosts Florence Creativity: Handmade in Italy, a fair dedicated to imagination and handicrafts, from November 21–24. Last year’s edition attracted more than 14,000 visitors and the 2013 edition aims to be bigger and better, featuring more than 100 of the most original artists in the country and exhibitions of their contemporary arts and crafts. A treasure trove of crafts are on display, including patchwork and quilting, ceramics, jewellery, beading, scrapbooking, macramé, handmade buttons, candles and découpage. Supplies for all these crafts are also sale, with experts on hand to give friendly advice. The fair certainly provides an excellent opportunity for those looking for unique and imaginative Christmas gifts, with an array of Christmas decorations available. The fair is not only an occasion for exhibitors to display and sell their wares but also offers an opportunity for those with a creative flair to participate in a variety of courses and workshops, including oil painting, cross-stitching jewelry-making and cake design. Free demonstrations of various crafts are also available, with the

opportunity to taste some of the sweeter creations. One of the highlights is no doubt the cake design contest. Various cake designers organise a series of cake-making courses each day, ranging in ability from basic to advanced, and 10 winning cakes created by non-professionals are displayed at the Cucina Chic Cake Design stand. The doors open from 9.30 a.m.–7 p.m. each day of the fair. Admission is €8 with €5 reduced tickets available. A ticket allowing entrance to all four days of the fair is available for €16. Children under the age of 10 enter free. On November 21st, two people can enter for the cost of one full-price ticket, so arrive early or book online to avoid queues.

Florence Creativity November 21–24 Fortezza da Basso 9.30 a.m.–7 p.m. Cost: €8; reduced: €5; four-day pass: €16 (Two-for-one tickets on Nov. 21) 366 54 46 666; 333 82 25 222; 338 70 96 708 info@florencecreativity.com www.florencecreativity.it

Ice-skating rink opens at Piazza Libertà

Parterre at Piazza della Libertà opens up its annual winter ice rink on November 25. The 600sqm rink, capable of holding up to 200 skaters, is open throughout the entire Christmas and Epiphany period until January 6. Since 1996, the rink has become a fa-

vourite of Florence’s winter celebrations, and was so successful that it had to be moved from Piazza Santa Croce to a bigger space to accommodate the demand. Colored fairy lights and festive music accompany patrons on their skates, which are available to rent in all sizes.

On Christmas Day and during the Epiphany period (until January 6) the skating rink is entirely dedicated to children, who are invited to meet Santa Claus himself there. As always, on New Year’s Eve, the rink becomes a natural meeting point for friends to bring in the new year together.

SNACK BAR ANNA THE Bagel POINT Enjoy the relaxing atmosphere and the jumbo cappuccinos while having a chat with Anna and Stefano, who will welcome you in a warm and friendly way. Grab one of the many homemade bagels, the bar’s perfected specialty since 1990. These bagels and sandwiches have made this snack spot one of the most popular among local Americans. While taking a break in the back seating area you will be pleased to experience the no-charge table service, which places Snack Bar Anna far from the ‘tourist traps’ in the city.

Mon. to Sat.: 8:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m. Via de’ Ginori, 26/r 055 23 81 143 stevebar@hotmail.it

Cocktails & Aperitivo near Santa Croce

Taste the history of the Italian panino

HAIRDRESSER AND BEAUTY SERVICES

Located in the Santa Croce area, Moyo is one of the most frequented bars in the city. The simple and elegant design, deep lighting and free Wi-Fi make the bar ideal for a relaxing work environment or an evening get-together. Lunch offers a range of first and second courses, sides, salads, hamburgers, omelettes, sandwiches, small pizzas and desserts. The aperitivo buffet, from 6:30p.m. to 10p.m., includes numerous courses on a large wooden table at the entrance. After 10p.m., the room is left for the American bar, with various cocktails and a list of both Italian and foreign wines updated monthly.

In the Italian culinary tradition, the panino has a very long history. It was originally eaten as a light snack consisting of bread, cheese and cold cuts. After a strenuous morning or afternoon of work, a panino is the ideal snack to stave off hunger. Every day we try to give you the freshest food and most fragrant bread, and every day we prepare just what we need to fill a certain number of panini: a choice that means our panini are always fresh and taste better for this reason. Drop in for breakfast, brunch or browse our deli range. Vegetarian and vegan ingredients offered.

Located in the central area of Sant’Ambrogio in Santa Croce, Alchimia offers a variety of women’s hair and beauty services using the finest brands, such as Moroccanoil, Paul Mitchell, GHD and CND Shellac. Services include: • Haircuts • Long-length extensions • Keratin reconstruction • Paul Mitchell product retailer • Shellac reconstruction and permanent enamel • Waxing • Massage (healing and relaxation) • Custom make-up • Cut, color and highlight

Via de’ Benci, 23/r 055 24 79 738 info@moyo.it www.moyo.it

MON. TO SAT.: 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Via Sant’ Egidio, 22/r 347 118 8056 oilshoppe@gmail.com

9 a.m.– 7.30 p.m. Via dell’Agnolo, 47–49–51/r 055 24 16 04 www.alchimia-hairdesign.com

Florence News & Events November 2013 No. 3

FLORENCE NEWS

Pedestrianization of Ponte Santa Trinita postponed until 2014

Get set for Florence Marathon on Nov. 24

Regarded as one of the top 20 marathons in the world and the second-largest in Italy, Florence Marathon takes off on Sunday, November 24. The 42-kilometer route runs directly past Piazza Santa Croce, Piazza della Signoria and Ponte Vecchio. It is facilitated by the fact the roads are entirely asphalted, allowing a particularly fast route for running enthusiasts and professionals, or an otherwise smooth, obstacle-free course for amateurs. The 2013 edition hosts the ‘Ginky Family Run’ in collaboration with Atletica Firenze Marathon, which is designed especially for children and takes place on the morning of the race in Piazza Santa Croce. It was created to invite young people into the marathon, so that all ages could participate in some way in arguably one of Florence’s biggest sporting events. Registration is free for children under 14 years of age. Florence Marathon is supported by the

association Expo, which provides a fundamental reference and meeting point for runners, as well as an exhibition center located inside the Luigi Ridolfi athletic stadium with sporting, tourism and entertainment initiatives on display. After the race, Obihall hosts a marathon party to celebrate the runners’ incredible achievement. The number of participants for the marathon has grown steadily each year, with more than 10,500 participating in 2012, and this year is expected to go beyond that. Visitors providing invaluable support and cheering along the sidelines are expected to exceed an impressive 35,000 in 2013. Registration costs €70 and can be completed online at www.firenzemarathon.it.

The pedestrianization of Ponte Santa Trinita has been postponed until after the New Year in order to allow for feedback from residents before the plan is finalized. “The town council is involved in this project of making Ponte Santa Trinita a pedestrian-friendly masterpiece, and the project, which has been completed by professional specialists, is one that I really like,” said Florentine mayor Matteo Renzi. “For this reason, we have decided to give a sneak peek of it to Oltrarno’s residents and council. They will tell us what they think of the project, and then we will go ahead with it, bearing in mind and taking into account suggestions that they have made. At this stage, we will wait until after the Christmas holidays, and then the pedestrianization will take place immediately afterwards in the New Year.” Due to take place on October 25, the pedestrianization of the bridge was pushed

back to November 10 before the recent announcement was made. The proposed changes include a removal of the bicycle lane, installed last year and considered by many to be a blight on the historic bridge, and a change of direction for traffic on Lungarno Corsini. The plan forms part of the council’s continuing

scheme to pedestrianize key areas of the city. Ponte Santa Trinita is one of Florence’s most treasured bridges. Destroyed at the end of the Second World War by departing German troops, it was recovered stone by stone from the Arno and painstakingly rebuilt in 1957.

DNA on knife matches Knox but not victim

Florence Marathon November 24 www.firenzemarathon.it

The alleged murder weapon in the Amanda Knox retrial has been found to contain traces of Knox’s DNA but not that of the murder victim, Meredith Kercher. Knox’s DNA was found on the handle of the knife, which prosecutors contended was the murder weapon as it matched Kercher’s wounds. “The report confirms that this is a kitchen knife. It is not a murder weapon,” said Knox’s defense lawyer Carlo Dalla Vedova after the testimony on November 6, saying that the evidence confirms the defense’s contention that the knife was used solely for preparing food. The DNA results also did not match the DNA of Knox’s co-defendant Raffaele Sollecito

or that of Rudy Guede, who has already been convicted separately of the murder. Sollecito’s defense lawyer Luca Maori stated that the existence of the DNA trace indicated that the knife had not been washed. “It is something very important,” he said. “It is absurd to use it for a murder and put it back in the drawer.” New DNA tests on the knife were ordered by judges at the retrial’s first hearing in Florence on September 30. Knox and Sollecito are currently on retrial for Kercher’s 2007 murder, although Knox has chosen to remain in the States for the appeal, where she returned after her 2011 acquittal. A verdict is expected in January.

C I O C C O L AT E R I A ITALIAN & AMERICAN CAKES CLASSIC ITALIAN GELATO

Enjoy a bio-organic meal or source the ingredients to make your own The Artisan Ice-Cream Shop

THE RESTAURANT OF THE FLORENTINES

In 1938, the idea for a shop was born based on the same question it bears as its name: Perché no! ‘why not?’. Ugo Ravaioli, founder and owner of the icecream shop for decades found an ideal location on Via de’ Tavolini to start the ‘sweet business.’ Ever since, Perché no! has been one of Florence’s most famous spots for refreshment. It is an authentic venue for ice-cream lovers famous for its ‘semifreddi.’ Today, the shop is run by Mrs. Paola and her daughters who rediscovered original recipes and create unique flavors while paying attention to the quality of ingredients.

Located in Via Ghibellina near Santa Croce, Da Que’ Ganzi offers a fresh seafood and meat menu for both lunch and dinner. Tuscan specialties include ribollita and authentic Florentine steak, and all of the cakes and sweets are homemade. A special weekday lunch menu for less than €10 makes the restaurant affordable for anyone.

Via dei Tavolini, 19/r 055 23 98 969 www.percheno.firenze.it

Mon. to Sun.: 12–2:30 p.m. & 7:30–11:30 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays.

Via Ghibellina, 70/r 055 22 60 010 www.daqueiganzi.it info@daqueiganzi.it

La Raccolta is a bounty for vegetarians, vegans and those who are gluten-intolerant or celiac. Combining a restaurant, shop, coffee and takeaway outlet, it’s wholly based upon vegetarian, vegan, macrobiotic and organic products. One of the first of its kind in Florence, the restaurant changes its menu every day and specialises in raw food, celiac-friendly and gluten-free dishes. La Raccolta’ has been serving the public since 1985 and provides fresh products as well as cosmetics and environmentally friendly cleaning products, while the coffee shop offers a range of alternatives to traditional Italian fare and also includes a catering and take-away service.

CHOCOL ATE a wide selection of hot italian chocolate drinks, top coffees, fine teas and home-made special cakes... GELATO artisanally daily made exclusively with natural ingredients low in sugar and fresh seasonal fruit

Restaurant: Mon–Sat: 12.30–3p.m. Shop: Mon–Sat: 8.30 a.m.– 7.30 p.m. Via Giacomo Leopardi, 2/r 055 247 9068 info@laraccolta.it www.laraccolta.it

Via dei Renai, 15 r. - Firenze - Cel. 345 97 36 618 posta@vivaldigelato.it

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013

NEWS

Italy tackles violence against women

Ryanair overhauls customer service

Ryanair has announced a strategy to dramatically improve its customer service after acknowledging that complaints over its ‘abrupt’ approach and overly fastidious baggage restrictions were affecting sales. Chief Executive Michael O’Leary said that the company would overhaul its website, set up a new team to respond to emails and stop fining customers whose carry-on baggage exceeds minimum sizes by a matter of millimeters.

“A lot of those customer services elements don’t cost a lot of money ... It’s something we are committed to addressing over the coming year,” he said. Carry-on luggage fines and charges for not printing out boarding passes were two of the biggest grievances cited by customers of the low-budget airline, which was recently voted the worst of the 100 biggest brands serving the British market by readers of consumer magazine Which?.

Italian households ranked 13th in global wealth study Law passed to combat ‘femicides’ Avani Kapur According to a Credit Suisse Research Institute study released in October, Italian households are richer than German ones but poorer than French and English families. Despite the economic recession, Credit Suisse found that average wealth in Italy increased 5.6 percent to $US241,383 per adult. Switzerland ranked highest in the world in average wealth, reaching a record high of $US513,000 per adult. The study also revealed that from mid2012 to mid-2013, total global household wealth increased by 4.9 percent to $US51,600 per adult or $US241 trillion. Over the next five years, household wealth is set to rise nearly 40 percent, with emerging markets reaching 23 per-

cent of the total by 2018. ‘’Our research shows that global wealth has doubled since 2000, quite compelling given some of the economic challenges of the last decade. We expect this trend to continue in the foreseeable future, driven largely by Emerging Markets’ strong economic growth and rising population levels,” said Michael O’Sullivan of Credit Suisse Research Institute. Italy did not appear in the top 15 countries with the most millionaires living within its borders, but it did rank 13th for average household wealth in the Global Wealth Report 2013. The US, France, the UK and Germany topped the list of millionaire-dense nations.

A bill geared toward reducing the country’s rising problem of domestic violence has been passed in response to a “femicide” that is “historic in scope”, according to members of Prime Minister Enrico Letta’s center-left Democratic party. The 12-point decree calls for harsher penalties for anyone found guilty of sexual violence, domestic abuse and stalking. It also provides victims with more protection, such as a shield for migrant women escaping violence. The bill was created in recognition of a profound increase in violence against women in Italy. According to a toll kept by the national media, nearly 100 women have been killed in Italy this year. A majority of victims were targeted by former boyfriends

and husbands. Of these women, many had previously reported episodes of harassment or stalking by their ex-partners. Rashida Manjoo, the UN’s special rapporteur on violence against women, said that Italy must urgently tackle its domestic violence pandemic. She also pointed out that many incidents are going unreported. “Most manifestations of violence are under-reported in the context of a family-oriented and patriarchal society where domestic violence is not always perceived as a crime,” Manjoo said. ‘Honor killings’ – murders usually committed by a male relative in hopes of restoring the family’s honor that has been supposedly violated by a female – are part of Italy’s past. ‘Honor’ was allowed as a legal defense for murder in Italy until 1981, before

which the Italian criminal code provided a reduced prison sentence of only three to seven years for a man who killed his wife, daughter or sister in the name of family honor. In March 2006, Giovanni Morabito, a 24-year-old Calabrian mafia member, shot his sister for having a child out of wedlock and wanting to leave her family after completing her law degree. Morabito told police he was not sorry but proud of what he did because it was “a question of honor.” The bill left the Senate with 143 votes in favor, three against and no votes from the Five-Star Movement (M5S), the Northern League and the Left Ecology Freedom (SEL) party. Although it became effective on August 8, it still required ratification by Parliament.

ARTISAN GELATO IN PIAZZA DELLA PASSERA

25-COURSE APERITIVO NEAR PIAZZA BECCARIA

COOKING COURSES IN SANTO SPIRITO

At Gelateria La Passera you’ll only find gelato made entirely from carefully chosen fresh and natural ingredients – no artificial colours or preservatives here. Each day it offers a variety of 20 flavours to try, which change seasonally. Gelateria della Passera’s aim is to offer its clientele a highly artisan, home-made product of both classic flavors and new, unexpected tastes and combinations.

Kitsch undoubtedly offers one of the most lavish aperitivo buffets in Florence. Its buzzing, eclectic vibe, comfy lounge seating and moody lighting would be enough to lure any aperitivo-seeker – and yet here is where Kitsch literally takes the cake. With a generous selection of first and second courses – including Tuscan specialties and several vegetarian dishes – sides, salads and desserts all for the price of a drink, patrons needn’t look further for the rest of the evening.

The association In Tavola aims to spread Italian food- and wine-rich regional culinary traditions, such as those of Tuscany with its variety of dishes and recipes. The association organizes cooking classes as well as individual lessons for both professionals and beginners. It also offers special deals for students.

Takes the hassle out of shipping your goods and luggage. Rates include: • Home pick-up • Secure and protective packaging • Delivery to your home or nominated address

Courses include: Market tour & cooking class Four-course dinner Easy dinner Easy lunch Home-made pasta Pizza & gelato

It’s the best way to ship your wine, olive oil or any other bottled goods!

Mon. to Sun.: 10 a.m.–7:30 p.m.

Piazza della Passera, 15

Open daily till late. Aperitivo from 6:30 p.m.–10 p.m. Viale Gramsci, 5r 055 23 43 890 www.kitschfirenze.com kitsch.beccaria@gmail.com

Via dei Velluti, 18 055 21 76 72 www.intavola.org info@intavola.org

Safe shipping solutions

Via dell’ Agnolo, 115/r 055 01 18 470 or 370 11 41 612 www.caratello.net firenze@caratello.net Skype: caratellofirenze

Florence News & Events November 2013 No. 3

NEWS

Leaning Tower could theoretically be straightened

The Leaning Tower of Pisa could in theory be completely straightened, according to the monument’s technical director, Giuseppe Bentivoglio. “The tower is moving. It is straightening towards the north. Between 2001 and 2013 it has recovered 2.5 centimeters of its incline,” he said. “According to studies by researchers at Stuttgart University with whom we worked, the tower will continue to straighten another couple of millimetres and then stabilise before starting to lean again, but at a much slower rate than before … In theory it would be possible to straighten it completely.” The famous tower underwent an 11-year restoration project that was completed in 2001 after fears arose that its steadily increasing incline by more than a millimeter a year could lead to its collapse. The tilt was measured at 5.4 meters in 1993, compared to 3.8m in 1817 and 1.4m in 1350. The twelfth-century bell tower, the construction of which took almost 200 years to complete, began tilting during construction due to inadequate foundations and poor soil conditions.

Lighting up the city of medieval skyscrapers

San Gimignano comes alive in a spectacle of sound and color

San Gimignano’s famous towers light up tinct, skyscraper-like skyline can be seen from December 6 to 8 in a spectacular from miles around. This, together with its show of light, color and sound entitled masterpiece frescoes it hosts in its variSan Gimignano Lumiere. ous churches, which include works by Switching on from 6 p.m. till midnight on Ghirlandaio and Gozzoli, have earned it each of the three days, the event turns the a listing on the UNESCO World Heritage medieval city into an open-air theater, us- Site register. ing the interplay of various technologies The town was greatly frequented during to animate San Gimignano’s monuments the medieval period, due to its position and recount its history. Its winding al- on the Via Francigena route, a route for leys and piazzas come alive with perfor- Catholic pilgrims that ran from France mance art, live music, video projections to Rome, with some maps even showing and street artists to create a multi-sensory it to go as far back as Canterbury, Enenvironment that organizers plan to turn gland. The town was originally ruled by into an annual event. the bishops of Volterra but became indeA sophisticated laser is allowing re- from the object to be scanned. searchers to create a high-resolution vir- Surveys were conducted in October by a Renowned for its well-preserved histor- pendent in 1199. It was controlled by two tual model of Florence’s Baptistery for research group from GeCo (Geomatics ic towers, San Gimignano is one of the rival patrician families: the Ardinghelli the first time by measuring its external for Conservation & Communication of oldest towns in Italy, first mentioned (Guelphs, who supported the Pope), and Cultural Heritage Laboratory) of the Uni- in a historical document dating back to the Salvucci (Ghibellines, who supported and internal surfaces. The instrument being used is the Leica versity of Florence as part of a program as early as August 929, when Ugo di the Holy Roman Emperor), and was the Geosystems laser tracker, equipped with being carried out by the Opera di Santa Provenza donated a tower to the Bish- site of numerous conflicts and competia T-Cam sensor device and Laser T-Scan, Maria del Fiore that will conclude with op of Volterra “next to San Gimignano”. tion between the two. which can detect 7000 points per second an international convention in autumn The town is encircled by a protective As manifestations of the rival sects’ wall and situated atop a hill, and its dis- wealth and power, 72 tower houses were on surfaces when positioned a few meters 2014.

Laser provides virtual model of Baptistery

built between them and other prosperous families , as they were neither cheap nor simple to construct at all, with each family attempting to exceed the other’s construction in height. Of these today, only 14 have survived, but have been restored and maintained in excellent condition. Despite this bitter political dispute between the families, the town continued to prosper in agricultural activities, particularly in the production of saffron, wool and Vernaccia, a specific grape from the area used to make wine. Today, the town holds 8000 inhabitants, and its Vernaccia wine production still flourishes, together with its agritourism. It also attracts millions of tourists each year through its international UNESCO reputation.

San Gimignano Lumiere December 6–8 Hours: 6 p.m.–midnight www.sangimignano.com/en/

iSculpture

CABIRIA LOUNGE BAR LIVELY NIGHTLIFE IN SANTO SPIRITO Named after Federico Fellini’s Le Notti di Cabiria, this lounge bar evokes a nightlife full of beautiful people, music and social events. With a modern, fashionable and trendy feel mimicking that of an old Parisian cafe, Cabiria is a unique place to enjoy a memorable night. One of the most popular nightclubs in the lively Piazza Santo Spirito, an ancient and fascinating square in the city, Cabiria’s location makes it a sought-out place for locals and tourists alike. Open every day until 2 a.m., it offers a generous aperitivo buffet of snacks and hot gourmet dishes specially made in the private kitchen from 7 – 9:30 p.m, paired with a selection of high-quality cocktails and wine. Cabiria is also an ideal location for dinner and a great late-night spot to relax and enjoy music on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. The lounge bar also acts as a host for photographic exhibitions, presentations and other events.

Piazza Santo Spirito, 4/r 055 21 57 32 info@ricchiristorante.com www.cafecabiria.com

A history of human cruelty from medieval times to the present

Contemporary Italian sculpture gallery at San Gimignano

The Museum of Torture at San Gimignano sheds light on the terrifying history of torture and its gruesome devices. Established in 1983, the museum documents the history of human cruelty from medieval times to the present, displaying 700sqm worth of instruments traditionally used for causing pain and death.

iSculpture is a project born to promote the skills and knowledge of contemporary sculptural art in Italy, which takes pride in treasuring tradition and techniques of the past. Sculpture can be considered as perhaps the most complete of art genres, in which matter and shape come together in a continuous search for innovation, without adhering to guidelines. The works of our selected artists represent a significant section of contemporary Italian sculptural production in the field of ceramics, bronze, alabaster, wood, marble and iron.

Open daily with special prices for groups and students. Via del Castello, 1/3 Piazza della Cisterna, San Gimignano 0577 94 22 43 museosrl@alice.it

Open daily: 11 a.m. – 7.30 p.m. Via Berignano, 25 San Gimignano 0577 94 02 07 info@isculpture.it www.isculpture.it

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013

literature corner

Ward off writer’s block with NaNoRiMo Lee foust It’s November, writers, and that means NaNoRiMo. National Novel Writing Month is a yearly event in which scads of aspiring and veteran novelists (over 261,000 signed up this year as of November 3) attempt to ward off writer’s block, procrastination, and what I call café syndrome—spending too much time sitting around in cafés pontificating about the novel you will one day write—and get a complete first draft of a novel down on paper in a single month. If you sign up you will have access to progress tracking, online pep-rallies, and the support of fellow NaNoRiMo novelists—and what better place to have written your first book than in Florence! So, go to it! No excuses and no bailing out until next year! And good luck to those of you brave enough to get typing! For more info see the website at http://nanowrimo. org/. The St. Mark’s-sponsored Florence Writers group that I announced in this column back in September is now up and running. The group meets on Monday evenings at 7:30 p.m. upstairs at the St. Mark’s English Church in Via Maggio, 16 to share creative work, commiserate, critique, and mutually inspire. All writers are welcome to join and participate—they ask only that you toss in €5 for coffee, tea, and cookies (or biscuits if you speak the Queen’s English). For more info, and/or to get on the mailing list, contact Mundy Walsh at St. Mark’s (administrator@stmarksitaly. com). Under the diligent and charming Ms. Walsh’s supervision the Saint Mark’s Cultural Association and Florence Writers have already sponsored three smashing English-language literary events and a poetry workshop this fall and we’re looking forward to what they have in

store for us in the spring. In the meantime, follow their facebook page for links of interest and other literary events happening in Italy: https://www.facebook.com/Florencewritersitaly Since you’re in Italy, why not tap into the connecting nerve center linking English-, French- and Italian-speaking readers and writers? In Florence that means a visit to the famed Gabinetto Scientifico Letterario G. P. Vieusseux. This mouthful of vowels refers to the English- and French-language library, in the Sala Ferri nestled into the ground floor of the Palazzo Pitti, where international literati have been meeting since 1819. Here the likes of Mark Twain, Fyodor Dostoyevsky, and Aldous Huxley relaxed with the English and French papers during their various sojourns in Florence. The Gabinetto’s ongoing Italian Writers series gives you the opportunity to learn about some of the stars of Italian literature, to work on your language skills, and to spend a little time in the confines of the grand old library. You may have already missed the Dante and Boccaccio sections, but Marino Biondi’s presentation of postmodern novelist, short story composer, and fairytale collector Italo Calvino takes place on November 13 and Riccardo Bruscagli’s introduction to Machiavelli on December 4—both events at 5:30 p.m. Aimed specifically at creating an exchange between American and Italian students interested in literature, the lecturers are aided by Florentine university students and the presentations include visual aids and readings from the works of the featured authors. For more info, contact the Gabinetto at 055 28 83 42 or vieusseux@vieusseux.fi.it. Read more from Lee Foust at www.leefoust.com

Literature Corner is kindly sponsored by Paperback Exchange

The greatest novel you’ve never heard of Lee foust First published in 1954, German novelist and travel-writer Wolfgang Koeppen’s Death in Rome is a little-known treasure well worth seeking out. I was drawn to it because of its Rome setting, as fodder for this column, but realized before I had finished reading the very first page that I had found something very, very special. Not only is Death in Rome a luscious and wonderful conjuring up of that dolce vita Rome of the post-war and pre-Beatles era, but it’s also a fabulous flowering of Modernist prose techniques, hypnotizing in its streams of interior monologues, thought-based rhythmic repetitions, and musically minded meanderings. It’s also one of the most convincing evocations, in a novel, of the dirty core of our Occidental political failings, that is to say of the slippery slope from national pride to patriotism, nationalism, imperialism, Fascism, and finally the eventual pursuit of world domination and ethnic cleansing through one form of genocide or another. It’s rare that a novel impresses so convincingly in both form and content. Death in Rome’s imaginative and organic style, its rhythms drawn from that inner monologue that we all carry around in

our heads, takes us inside the thoughts, experiences, and desires of three protagonists whose particulars build them into representatives of their split, post-war German culture and, by extension, all modern nation states. They are: an artist, a soldier, and a seminary student. Evoking the historical moment, the soldier is JudeJahn, a former SS man who has escaped the Nuremburg comeuppances and finds himself in Rome to buy arms for the Middle Eastern nation he now serves as a soldier of fortune. He is in the twilight of his ascendancy, bloodstained, keeping the Fuhrer’s dream alive in his every vile thought. His nephew Siegfried is an inverted romantic escapist, a composer of avant-garde classical music, in Rome for the debut of his first controversial symphony. His cousin, Judejahn’s son Adolph, traumatized by the breakdown of Fascism and the destruction of Hitler’s Germany while he was still at school, is a seminary student looking to find another, better Fuhrer to serve in the Catholic priesthood. Siegfried’s father and brother are also minor characters representing generations of politicos who show us exactly what we all know, fear, and deny about politics: that it is more like prestidigitation or juggling than any

Modern Ceramics 20th Century Art+Design Live Salesroom Auction November 7, 2013 10:00 am EST Live auction with online, absentee and phone bidding. Modern Ceramics features exceptional works by Peter Voulkos, Jackson Pollock, Michael Lucero, Toshiko Takaezu, Jason Walker, Beatrice Wood and more. Immediately following Modern Ceramics, 20th Century Art + Design includes a fine selection of mid-century and contemporary art, photography, glass, pottery and furniture.

Bid Live online, by phone, absentee or in person.

Catalogue View catalogue online at cowans.com. To request a printed catalogue e-mail FLOR1113 to evan@cowans.com

Contact ceramics@cowans.com 513.871.1670 6270 Este Ave. Cincinnati, OH 45232

Always Accepting Consignments

cowans.com

ideological stance. They are mere opportunists, dancing to whoever fiddles them a momentarily credible tune.The novel’s three colliding forces, the military, the artistic, and the spiritual collide both unbelievably and entertainingly through two days of criss-crossing encounters all throughout the exquisitely drawn Roman backdrop. You can palpably hear the fontanelle tumbling down water into the streets and smell the espresso and cornetti from the corner bars. The characters’ encounters, dialogues, and the eventual death of the title (a nod to Thomas Mann’s Death in Venice of course) meditate on the problems at the heart of the mid-century German drama and are certainly still relevant today: how do we negotiate and control systems constructed of power and born of conflicting beliefs? Who do we follow and why? And, most importantly—and frightening here in the vivid portrayal of the interior mind of the former SS man—where do these impulses to serve, to entertain (although there is much more to the portrayal of the artist here than merely that), and to dominate and destroy originate? I really can’t recommend this novel enough, it’s necessary food for thought. Read more from Lee Foust at www.leefoust.com.

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013 No. 3

HISTORY

From emancipation and Red Garter celebrates 51 years of persecution to pride live music The story of Florence’s Jewish synagogue

Ivana Scatola Across Florence’s striking skyline, the eye-catching green copper dome that belongs to Florence’s Orthodox Jewish synagogue differs entirely from the traditional Florentine medieval and Renaissance architecture that surrounds it, and in fact it was purposely oxidised so as to achieve this. It is not only a symbol of worship and of the Jewish community in the city, but also constitutes an important part of its history too. After the emancipation of Italian Jews in 1861 following the unification of Italy, which granted them full civil rights, it was decided that a great synagogue should be built for the Jewish community. Inaugurated in 1882, the temple was collaboratively designed by Mariano Falcini, Marco Treves and Vincenzo Micheli, and their creation combines Israeli and Italian worlds. The Moorish revival seen in Spanish synagogues is very evident, particularly the small, onion-like domes atop the two towers, while opulent Arab and Byzantine elements are found most particularly in the internal detail. Venetian mosaics in geometric polychrome adorn the entire inside walls and dome of the temple, while Florentine input can be seen through the alternate layers of travertine and rose limestone

that create a striking striped effect much like that of Florence’s own Duomo. Inevitably, the temple was a prime target during World War II. Florence was the second place in Italy from which Jews were deported to be taken to concentration camps. Of the countless hundreds of Jews deported, only 15 returned alive – whilst of the 27 children taken, none returned. Nazis took over the synagogue and used it as a stable and warehouse. It was damaged later in August 1944 when withdrawing German troops and Italian Fascists attempted to destroy the temple with explosives. The attempt did not cause as much harm as it had the potential to, thanks to the efforts of Italian partisans who managed to diffuse some of the explosives. Local Italians were also paramount in hiding Jews in their own homes to protect them. The synagogue is not only a place of worship, but also a social, cultural and historic center. Within the synagogue is also Florence’s Jewish Museum, where you can trace the history of the Jewish community in the city from 1437 to the present. Particular attention is paid to the memory of the Holocaust, and to those whose lives were sacrificed, and a stone monument outside the temple commemorates the names of all those Jews deported from Florence during the Holocaust. Both the synagogue and the museum are open daily (except on Saturdays) to visitors.

Jewish Synagogue and Jewish Museum Via L.C. Farini, 6 Entrance: €6.50; reduced: €5 info@firenzebraica.it www.firenzebraica.it

Red Garter was founded more than 50 years ago on May 23, 1962 as one of the first American-style bars in Italy. The original American ‘Red Garters’ were Victorian-style inns that first sprang up towards the end of the nineteenth century, where merchants and gold-diggers could stop and spend an evening listening to a banjo band. Red Garter has always been a mecca for travelers, and in the 1960s it functioned as a sort of unofficial consulate where Americans and other English-speakers

would gather to discuss business and talk about their travels. Its live music and fun atmosphere has traditionally drawn students but it also commands a loyal local following, a fact that eventually led it to start opening in the winter, rather than just the summer season. Staying true to its historical roots, Red Garter’s most distinctive feature has always been its live music, which has evolved from hosting banjo bands to showcasing modern Italian and foreign musicians. It has, however, kept the banjo

player as its symbol, with the signature black moustache of its founder Jack Correa. Today Red Garter represents a staple of Florentine nightlife; foreigners visiting the city have even often heard about it before leaving home. Nowadays the bar has a steakhouse attached, modeled on the classic American diner, but you can still feel the same atmosphere and energy that could be felt at the very beginning. History goes on: Red Garter’s regular hit band, Street Clerks, has recently become a final in Italy’s The X Factor.

The history of a tinsel-toned streetscape Before December saw Florence strung with tinsel and festive lights, its street names already contained references to sparkling silver thread and golden balls: Via dell’Ariento (From the Canto dei Nelli to Via Nazionale) If you’ve ever wondered why Renaissance artist Domenico Ghirlandaio was named after a garland instead of known by his birth name of Domenico di Tommaso Bigordi, the answer lies on this

street. Named after the metal-workers who produced silver thread for clothmaking (ariento is an archaic name for argento, or silver) the street was home to the Bigordi family workshop, where members wrought garlands out of silver wire and earned themselves the nickname ghirlandai (garland-makers). Not only Domenico but also Davide and Ridolfo Ghirlandaio belonged to this family.

Via Gomìtolo dell’Oro (From Borgo la Noce to Via Sant’Antonino) Originally known as ‘Golden Elbow Street’ (Via del Gomito d’Oro), this tiny street gained its unusual name from iazts right-angled shape and the goldsmiths who clustered upon it. Gold thread was wound into balls, known as gomitoli, and so the street’s name slowly transformed to reflect the trade in so-called ‘golden balls’.

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013

THANKSGIVING

As American as pumpkin pie

Life

TF 172

Nov 8, 2012

Juliet Stephenson

gland, where it was stuffed with different kinds of meat such as beef, lamb and wild game. Alternatively, there could be a little truth to the presence of the pumpkin pie at the First Thanksgiving. When the settlers first arrived, they began copying the Native Americans by roasting and boiling the squash as a source of food, in fact fundamental to their diets. So perhaps pumpkin wasdecision indeed present realize the finality of the to close at the First Thanksgiving - just not in the form we Edison. associate it with But today.I am pleading that the local administration change the designated Later, settlers attempted not to make pumpkin more appetizing by cutting open the top, scooping the to use of the space from a cultural out entity seeds, aand pouring milk, honey, and other spices purely commercial activity. We need into the pumpkin before cooking. Some say this is more businesses in Florence that, like the first pumpkin pie prototype, gradually evolving did, community. into theEdison pumpkin pie build we know today as the staple on our Thanksgiving tables.

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

No doubt many American students recall gradeschool productions of the First Thanksgiving, which always ended with a pie. However, the inclusion of pie as an essential element in Thanksgiving is a common misconception. The first pumpkin pie was not recorded until 1675, in an English cookbook. It was similar to a pumpkin pie, made with spices and boiled squash but wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t replicated in America until the early 1800s. The origins of the pie can be traced back to the Greeks, who are thought to have invented the pastry shell. From there, the Romans started putting meats such as mussels or other types of seafood in the pastry, and also began serving pie as a sweet dessert too. The term â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;pyeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; actually developed in medieval En-

Edison bookstore I am writing to you to express my deep frustration and disappointment with the imminent closing of Edison Bookstore and my hope to better understand the future use of the space. Edison has been essential to my education, as it is one of the only public spaces open to students on weeknights and Sundays. But it also has sentimental importance, for it was more than a bookstore. It was a social and cultural hub, providing customers with a place to relax, read, discuss and, should they feel like it, purchase books and other cultural items. It was where I met my friends for coffee every week, where I studied on the weekends, and where I felt at home in Florence. I

Madison Adams From Seattle, resident of Florence

send your opinions to inbox@theflorentine.net

bicyclists. If someone is listening with earphones to rock music and suddenly finds herself in the midst of a difficult situation for which she did not hear the warning, whose fault is that? If someone thinks that vehicles and pedestrians going the other way are not sufficiently accommodating, is this the complaint of somebody going the wrong way in a lane or street? If somebody finds that putting objects in the basket on the front of the bike makes the bike unsteady, does she realize this is the reason bikes have rear carrier racks? Emily outtarac Butterfieldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s article illustrates that Although the sweet smell of Thanksgiving turkey is not potatoes a one-way in here, the and blame buttery mashed arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t street customary interaction of American bicyclists with ensures other Florenceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s established population thatvehicles study abroad students and expats alike have and pedestrians.

Celebrating Thanksgiving in Florence

I believe that there are certain spaces in Florence that would benefit greatly from herbage, especially in summer. Of Thanksgiving national holiday in the mid-ninecourse, I aunderstand the implications teenth century. Hale even wrote to President Abrasuch aabout step,her such as that increasing water hamofLincoln belief the holiday could usage and interrupting grand views of unite the Civil War-divided country.In 1863 Lincoln declared the final Thursday in November as the church facades, but with some lateralnational day of Thanksgiving. Yet it wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t 1941 thinking, I believe, these issuesuntil could plenty of options so they can enjoy this tradition that Congress finally signed legislation and made be overcome. Piazza Santo Spirito Thanksgiving an official national holiday, andisit ahas Bob away fromNordvall home. fine example how trees improve the developed intoofa beloved American tradition. Thanksgiving Pistoia is more than just food. The tradition since year Thanksgiving shares its place on the of giving thanks started with the Wampanoag Na- Thisambience. Imagine turning a corner oncalBiking in Florence with Hanukkah, the Jewish Festival of Lights. tive Americans of southeastern Massachussets who endar a hot day in the centre to find a shady festivities in celebration of a successful harvest. This rare occurrence has not happened since 1888., Julie Butterfieldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s article â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Biking in heldFlorence with a bench Someagain of the piazzas phenomenon actuallybelow. wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t happen until After similarly experiencing a successful harvest Thistree Florenceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (in TF 170) about the perils in 1621, the pilgrims invited the Wampanoags to the smaller piazzas wouldtohave nothing year 79,811 - according calculations by to JonaFlorenceharvest is afeast. fabulous but,have as thanlose. Mizrahi, physicist at Sandia Nationfacing a cyclist in the city, is interesting a three-day Althoughcity, experts Pimpa quantum on! someone who lives in the centre, in New Mexico. and instructive. An important element found multiple occurrences of Thanksgiving-styleI al Laboratories Regards, of whether you have turkey or prosciutto, this feast is commonly referred to as Regardless know that it soon becomes apparent was missing, however, in the accounts of celebrations, Thanksgiving the that â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;First the Thanksgivingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Wendy in Florence is a great opportunity to city desperately lacks greenery. the individual problems recounted by the

Over the years, Thanksgiving was celebrated spo- share a homegrown tradition with Italians and other radically until Sarah Josepha Hale, magazine editor foreigners â&#x20AC;&#x201C; after all, who can say no to another servof Godeyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ladyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Book, led a campaign to make ing of pumpkin pie?

+DSS\ 7KDQNVJLYLQJ

2SHQ HYHU\ GD\ SP WR DP 9LD GHOOD 9LJQD 9HFFKLD U 7HO ),5(1=( 6$1 ',(*2 &$

:$6+,1*721 ' &

Bridge the gap with When In Florence For information on any of these services simply call, email or head down to the WIF office. 055 386 0864 info@wheninflorence.com via Giuseppe Verdi 46r

Since opening in 2011, When In Florence is the city’s first and only services company exclusively for students, tourists and expats. With a wide range of tailor-made services , the company was conceived as a means of bridging the gap between life at home and life in an unfamiliar country. With a staff that includes former study abroad students, each service was created with careful consideration of personal experiences, market research and feedback. We are here to provide information and services specifically tailored to your needs. Whether you want to know the hidden treasures of Florence or find the perfect language course, we can help.

We use our experience and contacts within the city to provide study abroad students, tourists and other English-speaking residents with the best deals on travel, shipping, storage, gym memberships, short- and long-term cell phone rental, car rental, translation services and everything you could possibly need during your stay in Florence. We can also offer help to find your ideal apartment or room.

Fiorentina tickets are available two to three days before the game. Just head down to our office with a copy of your passport to reserve your spots. Upcoming games include:

Whether you’re looking for someone to plan your events, ship your goods home, buy Fiorentina tickets or simply have questions about the city, the staff at When In Florence’s centrally located office are here to help.

Fiorentina vs. Verona – Serie A – December 2 @ 7 p.m.

Fiorentina vs. Sampdoria – Serie A – November 10 @ 8:45 p.m.

General information

Apartment rentals

Electric car rental

car rental

Fiorentina tickets

Cell phone rental and plans

free student reward card

Events planning

Luggage storage

International shipping

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013

FOOD & WINE

The secrets of pizza and covaccino

Totò atto II reveals its craft

Ivana Scatola Located in Piazza di San Felice, just a few steps beyond Palazzo Pitti and Santo Spirito, pizzeria Totò atto II is named after Naples’ famous Charlie Chaplin-like actor of the mid-twentieth century. We met its owner Leonardo, who explained Totò atto II’s pizza-making secrets. Firstly, all ingredients used are top quality and are sourced from the south of Italy: only fresh cow’s milk fior di latte and buffalo mozzarella, Italian pomodori pellati (peeled tomatoes), olive oil and flour of the highest grade. The dough is prepared the day before and rested for more than 24 hours before being used. A

minimal amount of rising is allowed, so vaccino, a type of flat bread, as well as as to ensure that the dough does not in- salads and panini, where the bread is flate too much, which is a problem often freshly made from pizza dough and fillseen in pizzerias where the dough has not ings are created by the customers thembeen handled correctly. selves from a long list of around 30 or so All the pizza preparation is done by hand ingredients. On-tap beers are available, without the use of machines, just like in as well as specialised in-house wines days gone by, and nothing is done behind starting from just €2.50 a glass. Totò closed doors. Totò atto II’s pizza toppings atto II pizzeria is also unique in the fact offer a range of flavor combinations, from it does not demand a service charge – a the Neapolitan classic friarielli e salsic- very unusual feature in Italy. cia (a Neapolitan broccoli-like green with With prices starting as low as just €4.50 sausage and mozzarella) to the ‘Fiorenti- for a regular-sized margherita, and a largna’ (Tuscan salami and pecorino cheese) er size option (50cm) available for hunand lighter options including the ‘Fresca’ gry groups, it is easy to see why tourists (arugla, cherry tomatoes and mozzarella). as well as Florentine locals return again Among Totò atto II’s specialties are co- and again after their first visit.

Margherita: the pizza named after a queen

King Umberto I and Queen Margherita of Savoy visited Naples in 1889 as part of a tour of Italy warranted by their newfound status as leaders of a recently united Italy. During their time there, Queen Margherita saw many of the peasants on the streets eating flatbread pizza – a typically working-class food that utilised inexpensive ingredients such as cheese, oil, garlic and anchovies, which was sold by street vendors to be eaten on the go. Curious, and bored of her steady French haute cuisine diet, Mar-

Totò atto II SPECIAL OFFERS Slice of pizza + 500ml water: €3.50 Whole margherita pizza + 500ml water: €5.50 Whole margherita pizza + Coke: €6 Maxi 50cm pizza margherita (for 3-4 people): €15 Cover and service charge included

055 22 07 091

YOUR PIZZA AND COVACCINO NEAR SANTO SPIRITO

gherita ordered a guards to bring her one to try. She loved the pizza bread so much that it caused controversy, as it was improper for a royal to be seen eating the food of the peasants. Upon visiting Naples’ Pizzeria Brandi, chef Raffaele Esposito made the queen a pizza with the colours of the Italian flag: green basil, white mozzarella and red tomato. He named it the ‘margherita’ in her honor and this is how the topping that we know and love today got its name.

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013 No. 3

FOOD & WINE

Drawing from the wine well

Take a wine-tasting tour alongside Pozzo Divino’s 700-year-old well tours. Dating back to 1312, the well is seven centuries old and was originally For a wine-tasting tour with a difference, built to supply water through a vast syslook no further than Pozzo Divino on tem of underground tunnels and pipes to Via Ghibellina just north of Santa Croce. the prisoners of the local prison, known Owned by Pino, well-known among stu- as the Stinche (now Teatro Verdi), that dents as a famous local identity, ‘Pozzo stretched as far as the Bargello. Divino’ is a witty play on words: literally Pino bought the location in 2006 and remeaning ‘divine well’, it also translates as stored it himself with the help of some ‘wine well’ when read as ‘Pozzo di Vino’. friends. Despite its restoration, Pino reThe ancient well in question is now part veals that it was always his principal inof a cellar that hosts Pozzo Divino’s wine tention to maintain a tangible sense of his-

Ivana Scatola and James Taylor

GASTRONOMIA NEAR SANTA CROCE Salumeria Verdi is a prime spot for quality food. This gastronomia has been serving the Florentine public since 1900, and offers a range of fresh pasta, bread, meat, cheese and more. It’s an ideal spot to stop by for a quick and satisfying lunch, and also offers catering services. Salumeria Verdi is also the sister company of nearby enoteca Pozzo Divino and therefore offers a cornucopia of quality wine selections.

Mon. to Sat.: 8 a.m. – 8p.m.

Via Verdi, 36/r 055 24 45 17 www.salumeriaverdi.it info@pozzodivino.com

tory when stepping into the cellar. This is something he has undoubtedly achieved; the place is almost like a time-machine propelling you back a few centuries into a part of authentic medieval Florence – albeit in excellent condition. Pino’s sommelier training is at the forefront of Pozzo Divino’s wine tours. He imparts his impressive knowledge while taking guests around the cellar, offering a range of Italian wines to sample with an appetizer of complementary regional

cheeses, cuts of meats, bread, olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Guests are offered a spectrum of Tuscan flavors to try, from a variety of the region’s renowned Chianti Classico to white wines that include Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio. The wine-tasting ends with the most exclusive reds of the cellar: Bolgheri, Super Tuscan, Morellino and Montepulciano. Pino proudly boasts that 90 percent of the wines he holds are of Tuscan origin, and

RESTAURANT RICCHI ELEGANT DINING IN PIAZZA SANTO SPIRITO

that his tours prove so popular that he often ships back boxes of the wine sampled to America in order to appease impressed customers. Tours can be organized for tourist groups, families and universities, and cost only €15 a head – which not only makes it an experience to enjoy over the festive season but also an ideal Christmas gift for lovers of Tuscany’s finest vintages. For bookings and more info, please visit: www.pozzodivino.eu

CELLAR WINE-TASTING NEAR SANTA CROCE

Restaurant Ricchi sits elegantly in the center of one of Florence’s most culturally affluent squares, Piazza Santo Spirito. The local setting offers a warm and cozy place to grab either a low-cost lunch or a more sophisticated dinner. Offering taste, art, and culture, Ricchi changes its menu every day for lunch, ranging from various meats to different types of spaghetti and lasagna. Ricchi is also locally renowned for the cooking of its own lunchtime desserts: legendary custard tart plums and cheesecakes. By night the menu varies less as the restaurant boasts its special seafood dishes. Alongside a well-designed and seasonal menu, Ricchi offers the opportunity to enjoy your meal while taking in the artistic atmosphere of Piazza Santo Spirito at one of 20 outdoor tables.

There are few places more apt to sample Tuscan wine than Pozzo Divino (‘The Wine Well’), where wine-tastings take place in a spectacular cellar dating back to 1312. The cellar features an ancient pozzo (well), while the quality of the niche wine hand-picked by owner Pino easily justifies an interpretation of ‘divine’ in this cosy enoteca’s title. Pozzo Divino also arranges Chianti Classico wine tours and sells olive oil and a superb range of balsamic vinegar aged up to 45 years.

Mon - Sat.:Lunch: Midday – 3 p.m. Dinner: 7:30 p.m.–11 p.m. Sun.: On the second Sunday of each month, lunch only. SPECIALTIES: MIXED SEAFOOD PLATTER

Mon. to Sat.: 9.30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m.; & 2 – 6:30 p.m. Sun.: Wine-tasting by appointment

Piazza Santo Spirito, 8–9/r 055 28 08 30 info@ricchiristorante.com.com www.ricchiristorante.com

Via Ghibellina, 144/r 055 24 66 907 info@pozzodivino.com www.pozzodivino.eu

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013

FOOD & WINE

Multi-faceted Moyo

Dine with Dante

Taverna La Divina Commedia offers medieval-style dishes and costumed performers Named after Dante Alighieri’s most fa- Also serving as a wine bar and pizzeria, mous work, The Divine Comedy, this the restaurant offers eclectic selection homely, rustic taverna fittingly lies on of wines from its cellar, and an outdoor Via dei Cimatori, only a few meters away summer terrace, and is fittingly decoratfrom Dante’s House. ed in a medieval style with armour and The venue prides itself on its innovative banners – and, of course, a mandatory and creative idea of preparing solely bust of Dante himself. traditional dishes based on medieval recipes. Some are adapted and revisited for the modern age but in a way that one maintains the omnipresent feeling of Florentine history and tradition – so much so that Dante himself could walk in and dine next to you. As a matter of fact, this is a regular occurrence at Taverna La Divina Commedia, as the venue regularly hosts recitals from Dante’s great work by professional costumed performers. Traditional medieval-style dishes include home-made ribbon pasta with wild boar and mushroom sauce, roast shin of pork with new potatoes and seasonal vegetables, risotto inspired by medieval Tuscan flavors, and tasting plates of assorted what’s more, it isn’t typically Italian: the cheeses accompanied with fresh fruit bar prepares everything from sushi dish- and jams, including the taverna’s speciales to sweet-and-sour noodles in its mod- ty hot red pepper jam. ern take on the aperitivo. The venue also offers an apericena (aperitivo dinner), an option for groups and events where you enjoy the sit-down exclusiveness of a restaurant dinner but with the choice and drinks of an aperitivo buffet. In the daytime, Moyo’s huge windows bathe the place in daylight and create a Salamanca head chef Rafael Olivera ex- American energy, color and flavor to the quiet study space where students often plains how, inevitably, the most popular tastebuds. The prawns are marinated in come and sit with their laptops taking choices selected by students at the restau- a delicious tangy orange sauce and sweet advantage of the free wi-fi. Here you can rant are paella and enchiladas. Yet his chilli chipotle and then grilled with pineenjoy breakfast, cakes, (including the favourite dish on the menu is something apple, creating a marriage of flavours that “best cheesecake in all of Florence”) and a little different: spiedini di gamberi, or work exceptionally well together. The huge mugs of coffee – something that prawn kebabs. It is a typical Mexican dish is then accompanied with chips and goes against the grain of Italy’s chug- dish with an exotic combination of fla- salad. What is more, it is rare for prawns and-run coffee culture. vours that evoke a real bolt of Latin or fish to be found on a typical Tuscan

Taverna la Divina Commedia Via dei Cimatori, 7r 055 21 53 69 Open daily: 11.30 a.m.–12.30 a.m.

From breakfast and coffee to sushi and nightlife Located in Via de’ Benci, the street of the Florentine movida, Moyo has a personality that goes beyond its lounge-style night bar. We recently met Gonzalo, the bar manager, who told us how ‘chill out’ at his bar is a concept that goes around the clock. “People seem to either think Moyo is just a bar, or just a daytime café. In reality it’s both, a very unusual feature here in Florence. We’re actually open from 8.30 a.m. every day,” he told us when we met him last month. Moyo offers sit-down lunch as well as a special aperitivo buffet in the early evenings. The Royal Party on Wednesday nights provides live background DJ music as well as a wide range of dishes to cater to every aperitivo need – and

Salamanca chef recommends his choice dish

L’angolo dei golosi

Your one-stop shop for a lampredotto sandwich in Piazza dei Cimatori and San Lorenzo Located in the centre of the city in Piazza dei Cimatori, tucked away between the Duomo and Piazza della Signoria, you’ll find ‘L’Angolo dei Golosi’ – the city’s ‘Greedy Corner’ – ready with a selection of on-the-go foods to keep your energy up while you explore the center’s narrow alleys. L’Angolo offers a wide range of delicious gelato flavors, available in the traditional pot or cone, which can also be enjoyed atop a pile of crepes or waffles – perfect for those with a sweet tooth. Hungrier wanderers can tuck into a variety of hot foods, including panini, pizza, hamburgers and hotdogs, at very reasonable prices. Should you fancy a more traditional Italian lunch or snack, L’Antico Trippaio is the perfect place to stop. For more than 80 years, L’Antico Trippaio has provided high-quality yet affordable food for both Florentines and tourists. In true Florentine tradition, the outdoor food cart provides trippa, lampredotto, lesso, poppa, matrice, porchetta, salumi, and wild boar sausages made fresh daily. L’Antico Trippaio is the best place to enjoy excellent panini and focacce like a true local. Just steps from the Duomo, it is one of the most frequented lunch spots in the historic city center.

menu, where the specialities are generally meat dishes; seafood tends to be found in coastal areas. So if you’re yearning for some Spanish or Latin American food, or have just had a little too much pizza and pasta since you’ve been in Italy and fancy a break – come to Salamanca and try the spiedini di gamberi!

SPECIALTIES: TRIPPA AND ZAMPA FLORENTINE-STYLE Peposo and stracotto florentine-style One of TripAdvisor’s top-ranked Florentine restaurants, Antica Osteria 1 Rosso serves up fresh Tuscan dishes at very reasonable prices, with special lunch offers and discounts to foreign students. Enjoy an assortment of Tuscan cold cuts, fresh hand-made pasta, wild boar ragu, a variety of grilled meats, including Florentine-style specialties, and home-made desserts accompanied by house-made Chianti.

outdoor tables available Piazza dei Cimatori Piazza San Lorenzo 339 74 25 692 www.anticotrippaio.it

Borgo Ognissanti, 1/r 055 26 70 461 anticaosteria1rosso@gmail.com www.anticaosteria1rosso.it

www.florencenewsevents.com November & DECEMBER 2013, No.3

DINING OUT

www.redgarter-florence.com

055 38 80 034

TUSCAN & ITALIAN CUISINE

(C4) SALAMANCA Via Ghibellina, 80/r 055 23 45 452 www.salamanca.it

(C4) SALUMERIA VERDI Via Verdi, 36/r 055 24 45 17 www.salumeriaverdi.it

(C4) THE DINER Via dell’Acqua 2 Tel: 055 29 07 48 www.theflorencediner.com

(D4) SOFT DRINK ROCCO Via de’ Neri, 16/r 389 02 50 515

(C2) ANTICA OSTERIA 1 ROSSO Borgo Ognissanti, 1/r 055 26 70 461 (C4) DA QUE’ GANZI Via Ghibellina, 70/r 055 22 60 010 www.daqueiganzi.it (B3) LORENZO DE’ MEDICI RESTURANT & PIZZERIA Via del Giglio, 49 055 21 29 32 www.lorenzodemediciristorante.com (D2) OSTERIA SANTO SPIRITO Via Santo Spirito, 16 055 23 82 383 www.osteriasantospirito.it (D2) RICCHI RESTAURANT Piazza Santo Spirito, 8–9/r 055 28 08 30 www.ricchiristorante.com (E2) Totò II Piazza San Felice, 2/r 055-2207091

(C3) Divina Commedia Via De’ Cimatori 7/r Tel.: 055-215369

(B4) THE OIL SHOPPE Via Sant’ Egidio, 22/r 347 11 88 056

NIGHTLIFE

VEGETARIAN (C5) La Raccolta Via Giacomo Leopardi, 2/r 055-2479068 www.laraccolta.it

SNACKS (C3) L’ANTICO TRIPPAIO Piazza dei Cimatori & Piazza San Lorenzo 339 74 25 692 www.anticotrippaio.com

INTERNATIONAL

(C4) MR. PIZZA Via Pietrapiana, 82 Pizza Duomo, 5/r Tel: 055 38 60 311

(D4) House of Sizzle Via de’ Benci, 33-35/r 055 24 80 909

(C4) SALOON TOSCANO Via Verdi, 47/r

APERITIVO BARS (D2) CABIRIA LOUNGE BAR Piazza Santo Spirito, 4/r 055215732 www.cafecabiria.com (D4) GALLERY CAFÉ ART BAR Via de’ Benci, 30/r 055 22 60 204 (C5) KITSCH Viale Gramsci, 5/r 055 23 43 890 www.kitschfirenze.com (A3) KITSCH DEUX Via San Gallo, 22/r 328 90 39 289 www.kitschdeux.com

(C2) SAN CARLO Borgo Ognissanti, 32-34/r 055 21 68 79 (D4) MOYO Via dei Benci, 23/r 055 24 79 738 www.moyo.it (C2) ONE-EYED JACK Piazza Nazario Sauro, 2/r 055 09 44 561 www.thejackpub.com (D2) PITTA M’INGOLLI Piazza Santo Spirito, 17/r 055 26 42 56

CLUBS (D4) RED GARTER Via de’ Benci, 33 055 24 80 909 www.redgarter-florence.com (C4) TWICE CLUB Via G. Verdi, 57/r 055 24 76 356 www.twiceclub.com

PUBS (D4) BEER HOUSE CLUB Corso dei Tintori, 34/r 055 24 76 763 www.beerhouseclub.it

(B3) DUBLIN PUB Via Faenza, 27 055 27 41 571 www.dublinpub.it (A3) FINNEGAN IRISH PUB Via San Gallo, 123/r 055 49 07 94 www.finneganpub.com (D4) KIKUYA PUB Via dei Benci, 43/r 055 23 44 879 www.kikuyapub.it/en (a2) MOSTODOLCE CRAFT BREWERY Via Nazionale, 114/r 055 23 02 928 www.mostodolce.it (b2) THE FIDDLER’S ELBOW P.za Santa Maria Novella, 7/r 055 21 50 56

LIVE MUSIC (*) Porto di Mare -Eskimo Via Pisana 128 055 71 20 34 (B2) Eskimo Club Via De’ Canacci 12

Lorenzo de’ Medici Lorenzo de’ Medici Restaurant and Pizzeria is an elegant yet reasonably priced spot situated right in the heart of Florence, just a few steps away from the Medici Chapel, the church of Santa Maria Novella and San Lorenzo market, and no more than 200m from the Fortezza da Basso. The restaurant seats 250 people at a time, has wheelchair access, five restrooms and two exits for the comfort of its clients. It is the ideal place to try traditional Florentine dishes or pizza cooked in the wood-fired oven. The perfect place for tourist groups, business dinners, meetings or private dining.

Restaurant & Pizzeria Maxi-screens showing Sky sports (football & NRL Super Bowl)

20% discount for students Large indoor rooms Outdoor seating

Tel. 055 21 29 32 // Via del Giglio, 49 www.lorenzodemediciristorante.com

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013

CITY GUIDE TOURIST INFORMATION

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

RELIGIOUS SITES

Firenze Turismo 055 29 08 32/055 29 08 33 Via Cavour, 1/r Mon–Sat: 8:30 a.m.–6:30 p.m. (Closed on Sundays and public holidays; see Commune info points below for Sunday hours.) info1@firenzeturismo.it www.firenzeturismo.it

(A4) Accademia Gallery* (B2) Alinari National Photography Museum* (C3) Bargello National Museum* (B3) Bigallo Museum* (B3) Cathedral Museum (Museo dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore)* (D2) Costume Gallery (Palazzo Pitti)* (C3) Dante House Museum* (D3) Galileo Museum * (D4) Horne Foundation Museum * (B5) Jewish Museum* (C4) Michelangelo’s House (Casa Buonarroti)* (B4) MUDI Children’s Museum (C4) Museum & Florentine Institute of Prehistory

(B3) Baptistry of San Giovanni* (D1) Brancacci Chapel* (B3) Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (Duomo) (C3) ‘Dante’s church’ (Santa Margherita de’ Cerchi) (B5) Jewish Synagogue* (B3) Medici Chapel* (B2) Ognissanti (B3) San Lorenzo (A4) San Marco* (D4) Santa Croce* (D3) Santa Felicità (B2) Santa Maria Novella* (A4) Santissima Annunziata (D2) Santo Spirito

Museum of Natural History sections: – (C4) Anthropology & Ethnology* – (A4) Geology & Paleontology* – (A4) Minerology & Lithology* – (E2) Zoology ‘La Specola’*

(*) included in the FIRENZE CARD. See www.firenzecard.it for more information.

055 31 58 74 Florence Airport Via del Termine, 1 Daily: 8:30 a.m.–8:30 p.m. infoaeroporto@firenzeturismo.it Commune 055 21 22 45 Piazza Stazione, 4 Mon–Sat: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m. Sundays & public holidays: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. turismo3@comune.fi.it www.comune.fi.it 055 28 84 96 Bigallo loggia Piazza San Giovanni Mon–Sat: 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Sundays & public holidays: 9 a.m.–2 p.m. bigallo@comune.fi.it

EMERGENCY SERVICES Police – emergency 113 Police – carabinieri 112 Police – municipal 055 32 83 333 Ambulance 118 Fire department 115 Tourist medical service 055 21 22 21 Poison Center 055 79 47 819 Pharmacies (open) 800 42 07 07 Vehicle breakdown (ACI) 116 Obstruction& towed vehicles 055 42 24 142 Civil protection services 800 01 5 161 Child abuse hotline 114 Emergency vet services 055 72 23 683 1515 Environmental emergency response 055 33 48 02 Lost & Found (Florence office)

TRANSPORT BUS & COACH

ATAF (www.ataf.net) BluBlus (www.blubus.it) SITA Nord (www.fsbusitalia.it) CAP (www.capautolinee.it) Vaibus (www.vaibus.com)

TRAIN

Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.com) Italo (www.italotreno.it/en)

TAXI

800 42 45 00 800 27 78 25 800 37 37 60 055 21 46 37 058 35 87 897 89 20 21 06 07 08 055 42 42

(A4) National Archaeological Museum* (C3) Orsanmichele* (D2) Palatine Gallery (Palazzo Pitti)* (C3) Palazzo Davanzati* (B3) Palazzo Medici-Riccardi* (D2) Palazzo Pitti* (C2) Palazzo Strozzi* (C3) Palazzo Vecchio* (D2) Porcelain Museum* (A4) Science & Technical Foundation* (D3) Uffizi Gallery* (D3) Vasari Corridor

KEY SITES (E3) Forte Belvedere (B3) Giotto’s bell tower (campanile)* (C3) Piazza della Repubblica (C3) Piazza della Signoria (E4) Piazzale Michelangelo (B3) Piazza San Giovanni (D3) Ponte Vecchio (A1) S.M.N. train station

GARDENS (E2) Boboli Gardens* (A4) Botanic Gardens* (E4) Rose Gardens

MARKETS (C4) Antiques Borgo Allegri – Via dell’Agnolo – Piazza dei Ciompi – Via Martiri del Popolo Last Sunday of each month (except July): 8:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m. (A3) Central Market Fresh produce, local and Italian food products. Via dell’Ariento Mon–Fri: 7 a.m.– 2 p.m. ; Sat: 7 a.m.–5 p.m. July and August: Mon–Sat: 7 a.m.–2 p.m. Cascine Park Food products, clothing, antiques and homewares. Viale Lincoln – Viale Lecci – Piazzale J. F. Kennedy Every Tues: 8 a.m.–2 p.m. (C4) FLEA MARKET Piazza dei Ciompi Daily: 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m. (C3) FLOWERS & PLANTS Via Pellicceria (under the loggia) Every Thurs (except public holidays): 8 a.m.–2 p.m. (C3) PORCELLINO Clothing, textiles, Florentine straw products, leather and souvenirs. Piazza del Mercato Nuovo, Via Porta Rossa Daily: 9 a.m.– 7:30 p.m.

STUZZICHERIA LETIZIA Tuck into panino con porchetta Step into Stuzzicheria Letizia for a mouth-watering panino con porchetta: whole suckling pig slow-roasted in a wood-fired oven for at least six hours and served on a fresh bread roll. Named for its range of light meals and freshly made snacks (stuzzichini), such as sandwiches, pasta, omelets and rice-filled arancini, Stuzzicheria Letizia also offers traditional Florentine dishes that change daily, where you can enjoy a starter or main with a glass of wine for only €4.90.

(B3) SAN LORENZO Leather goods (bags, shoes, clothing) and souvenirs. Piazza San Lorenzo and neighboring streets Daily: 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m. (C5) SANT’AMBROGIO Fresh produce, flowers, clothes and homewares. Piazza Ghiberti Indoor market: Mon, Tues & Thurs: 7:30 a.m.– 2 p.m.; Wed & Fri: 7:30 a.m.– 7 p.m.; Sat: 7:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Outdoor market: Mon–Sat: 8 a.m.–2 p.m. (D2) SANTO SPIRITO Piazza Santo Spirito

SHUTTLE SERVICE TO FLORENCE AIRPORT From Florence S.M.N. train station to Florence Airport (Peretola): Every hour and half-hour from 5:30 a.m. till 11 p.m. Bus stop located outside train station near taxi stand. From Florence Airport to Florence S.M.N train station: Every hour and half-hour from 6 a.m. till 11.30 p.m. ‘Vola in Bus’ ATAF/SITA service 800 42 45 00 www.ataf.net Florence Airport (Peretola)

055 30 61 300 www.aeroporto.firenze.it/en

Pisa International Airport

(Galileo Galilei) 050 84 93 00 www.pisa-airport.com

LEGEND Tourist information Hospital Parking Train Station Urban buses - Info and ticket office suburban buses central post offices PUBLIC TOILETS

Enoteca de'Macci THE BAR YOUR MOM WARNED YOU ABOUT The newly reopened Jack is ready to rock ‘n’ roll! Come by for lunch or dinner and try the revamped menu featuring traditional Italian food and American staples. Enjoy live music, DJ sets and the costume parties that Jack has become famous for, as well as two HD screens showcasing special sporting events. If all that Italian espresso just isn’t hitting the mark, drop by One-Eyed Jack’s to enjoy American coffee with a free refill between 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. Free wifi is also available.

Bistro, Wine AND Cocktails at Borgo Ognissanti San Carlo bar offers continental and American breakfast and brunch, simple but refined lunch, a large aperitivo buffet, and an extensive wine and cocktail list. Music and art create a warm, lively atmosphere while friendly staff members are always ready to cater to any requests. San Carlo is a bar suited to any time of day: great for a quick coffee or snack, a leisurely aperitivo or meal, or simply an after-dinner drink with friends.

A COMPLETE €10 MEAL IN SANT’AMBROGIO Enoteca de’ Macci is a lively bar located in one of Florence’s nightly hotspots. Guests are offered a diverse selection of local specialties, fine wines and exotic cocktails while listening to relaxing lounge music. The menu includes an international breakfast with rich buffet (€4.50 or €3.50 for students), lunch (€4.90 for first course, €5.90 for second course or complete meal for €10), as well as happy-hour specials for €3.50. Enjoy music and cocktails until 2 a.m. with live music between 9–11 p.m.

Daily from 11 a.m. – 2 a.m.

Via de’ Neri, 18 055 26 70 481 tittil@live.it

Piazza Nazario Sauro, 2/r 055 09 44 561 www.thejackpub.com info@thejackpub.com

Borgo Ognissanti, 32-34/r 055 21 68 79 www.sancarlofirenze.it

Via de’ Macci, 92/r (corner Via Mino 4–6–8/r) 338 88 46 455 (Matteo) 328 96 72 241 (Marco)

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

CITY GUIDE

V IA L

ILIP E F

ST R

I OZ Z

GIO

ER CH VIA

OR RM MA

I ON PP CA O VIA

TI PIN RG BO A

OL RG

OL ON

V. S

LIC

PE A LL DE VIA

VIA

O V.D.RONC

AIA AT TO N AM LL I CC I D.P

OT I I

INE V IA

P. T H

SIN

A LC

TEN

L LE

’M

SCARPU

V.LE DU CA D’A BRUZ ZI

VIA

BUE

E IT A LIA

VIA TRIPOLI

LE GRA ZIE

VIA TRIPOLI

VIA

PIAZ ZA DEI CAVALLEGG ERI

LUNGARNO

DELLA ZEC

CA VECCHI

A LUNG. G. PEC

ORI GIR ALD

LUN

CCIA LUNGAR

P.Z A DE MIDOFF VIA DE’ RE NA I VIA DI

SA N NI

NO SERR

ISTORI

CCOLO’

LUNGAR

VIA DEI BASTIONI

VI A D

I BELV

EDER

VIA CIMA

VA N

LINA

VIA

HIBEL

GIO

VI A G

V. D .

LI A B TOR

NOLO

LL A

S EP

ELL’ AG

CI AC ’M DE V IA .GIU

V. M AG

D. T IN

PIAZZA BECCA RIA

VI A D

ECH

CI EN DE

’B

RSO

CROCE

LLE GR OA

LIN A

HIBEL

CO NT AC

O LA

PIAZZA

VIA

VI A G

DI S

PIAZZA

ROC

LIN

GHIBERTI

S.CROCE

S.C RGO

P.ZA S. AMBROGIO

BORG

OPO

NA V.M .B

PI ’ PE

VIA TA

PIAZZA PERUZZI

VIA

PIAZZA MENTA GENER. DI AZ

DI ER

IN V.D .ST

V. TO R

I STIC

VIA D.VAGELLAI

RTIR

INI

G. V

CHIA

ARA

UILL

EZZ O

DOLF

G.B

VIA

DI M

VIA RI MIE PA N

G.C

PI DE

’ PE

VIA

V IA

VIA PIETRA PIANA

V.M A

V. M

V. D.

FA R VIA

NA SO FIE

.P AL

V. D. SEGGIOLE

I V.GIRA LD V.D. ACQU A

V.D.VIGNA VEC

GRE CI

VIA

TI PIN O RG

OLO

EG ID

ORIU

’ RU

RIA

GIARDINO DI BOBOLI

VIA

PE LL

ZZ A OV A

OL ELL’

E’ CA CC INI

OV AD

V.D E

DE ER

V. G

P.ZA

VIA

PIA

A ZIE

IA N

LO T TI

D EI

GA IN

ET O

C.STA

CIO AC LL TE AS

LUNG. DEL

RIG

VIA

S.NICCOL

ST A

OT OR

VIA LE G.

NO B. CE

PONTE A

V. D

A NG

V.M A

FA N

I RV SE EI V. D

VIA DEL PROCONSOLO P FIR IA Z EN Z A ZE S.

V.D .LE ON

I LU N

V. D. C UF AL

VIA P.ZA D. V IA D.SA PON GIUDICI A

LUNG.

NE TO

FIB V. D

LI SO ICA AR

VIA D. STUDIO

NI LA EL CA N

E’

VIA DEL CERC

VIA

ST V.ZO

LLE

CA VO VIA

ELLI V. MA RT

NZO LORE B.GO S. ICI

’ PIT

P.LE ED

RGO

. DE

V.D .C

ELL’

PIA ZZ ’M A OZ ZI

BORGO DEGLI ALBIZI

VI A D

D. U F

VIA

BERT

DE GL

V.N U

VI A D

I P.ZA S.TA FELICITA

VIA

V.DANTE AL.

V.D .NIN

D’AZEGLIO

MA R PO

V.LA M

VIA IT

DIN

PIAZZA SIGNORA

VIA

IA R

’ PU

IL CORSO

L. M

ICC

FA N

LU T

GIN

LL O GA VIA

RI INO ’G VIA

B.GO LA

V. DELL’ OC

V. SPEZIALI

CA TO S EL

VIA

AT A EP AR NT AR SA VIA

A ZZ PIA LICE E S.F

’V

RIA

T ER

STO

L LE

VIA

PIAZZA DEL DUOMO

IO LA TE GO O RG BO

’P

VIA I OB AN NZ SA

LA PIAZ ZA STROZZI

V. DE’ TOSINGHI

PO V E NTE CC HIO CO P

IO GG MA

E LD CA E LL DE A VI

LI AG

S. IA

VIA

I SE

UR CA VO

LE NA ZIO NA

V.DE’ VECCHIETTI DE

S.S. ANNUNZIATA

VIA

VIA GIANO DEL

LABELL A

V.S

VIA V. MONTI

VIA

I AN LL VI

PZ A

T TA

VIA

S. P I A SP Z Z IR A ITO

LA PA O DA SC O EN AC FR S.

MA VIA

VIA

BOR

V. M

VIA PETR ARCA

IA IU

PIAZZA S. GIOVANNI

LI A

’ GO

V. B

AG A RC

V.MONDA

NC RIO V.D .PA

INI

TIN

HIE

A RN

S. A

IRIT O

LUG

INIT A

.TR

CIA

UIC

S.M

I SE

VIA

.SP

V. D E

V.D.ANSELMI

VIA PORTA ROSSA

VIA DE’ TORNABUONI

O OR LM DE

A VI T EL

DI S

P.Z A SAN LOR ENZ O

P.ZA DELLA REPUBBLICA

P.ZA S.TRINITA

FFIA

E LL

B.G

V IA

V. D.PESCIONI

I SS O ’F DE A V IA

P. Z A D CA R EL MINE

VIA STROZZI

VIA

LU N

EO N

INI

P.Z A EA R

P.ZA DAVANZ ATI

A AN LL CE OR LP VI

AIA RR CA LA AL

AG O

L. A R VI A LE

VIALE GIOVANNI AMENDOLA

LC I

D V.

VIA

LU N

VIA

E DIA N

PIAZZA TORQUATO TASSO

VIA

A NUO VIGN ELLA VI A D RU P.Z A CE LL AI V.DEL PA RION E

V. DE’ PECORI

V. D. CAMPIDOGLIO

FRE

VIA. D.AGLI

SAN

D’O

V.D .DR

P.ZA DE’NERLI ORTO

BOR

VIA

PA D

V.CALIMA LA

T TA DE EN E V. B DE VIA

GA RN OS OD P ER CE .Z A D INI ST E I LLO

NI GIOVAN VIA S. IOSTO

PIAZZA GOLDONI

LU N

AC CI AN E’ C

FRIO ONO

P.Z A V.D .PIA TIBA DEL GG TOIO IO

V.S.

V. D. CONT

O ER LB L’ A

V. D

AN EG N EL V. M CI UC SP PO

V.LU N LE M GO UR A

V IA D .A NC

ONE

TOLI

EL AN G. Z VIA

DE GL

ELL’

V.B AR

V IA D

R V.

VIA

VIA DE’ CERRETANI

SCI

P OG IA Z NIS Z A SA DI NT I

EBB

PIAZZALE DONATELLO GIU

LL A

VIA I

’P

PIAZZA S. FRACESCO DA PAOLA

IST

VIA

AT T

V.D .TR

F. B E

V. C

P.ZA DI VERZAIA

V IA

DIN

DELLA

OS A

LIO

V. DE’ BENCHI

GIARDINO GHERARDESCA

I S.R

PIAZZA S. MARCO

SEMPLICI

VIALE ANTONIO GRAM

NNE

SA N A

PIAZZA S. MARIA NOVELLA

’P

’P AN

GIARDINO

O C.T P.ZA MADONA

MEL ARA NCIO

E DO

A RN

.O V.S

L SO

.BELL V IA D

C VI A PI

O AT RT

OL O

VIA PIAZZA DELLA UNITA’ ITALIANA V. D.

V. D

O TR

PA L

LA STA ZIONE

IN ON NT

RIG

PIA ZZA DEL

V. F

VIA

LUN G

P. A

PIAZZ A

V. BRUNELLESCHI

EG L

DI AL RIB GA

V.PELLICCERIA

N RI TE A CA N S. I E V. A S D

V. D

VIA ITA L

TA D

Z V.

ZIO

P. M ZA ER DE CA L TO

B. LO

VIA

LU N

VIA

FIZI

LL A

NOCE

AI CE

NT A GE

ICE

IER

IEN

DEL’

VIA

N PA

LL’

V. D.MEDICI

V. D .A

VIA DEI CALZAIUOLI

RIL

N FA E

VI AP

TT EO

VIA

V II

TT MA

VIA

ADUA

V IA

FIU

TA L

V IA

NIN

O AT

VIA

PIAZZA

N CE

VIA

GIA

N FA E

ET O

VIA DE

V IA

DIA

A NN

E AT

I AL

LUIG

V IA

L SE

VIA

V IA

VIA

L LI

VIA

SSE

LFON

E V IA L

I RO

VI A VA

L T EL FR A

LLINI

V IA

POGGI

LL A

VIA

E PIA ZZ MICHEL ALE ANGE

PIAZZA F. FERRUCCI’

VIA AS

TIO

RV .R

SO F T D R I N K RO CCO ONE-STOP SHOP FOR DRINKS AND MORE ON VIA DE’ NERI Whether you want an iced coffee or a bottle of wine, a beer and crisps or a refreshing soda, Soft Drink Rocco has got you covered. It has everything that you could need on a moment’s notice, selling a wide variety of alcohol, soft drinks and foodstuffs. Snugly settled on Via de’ Neri, if you find yourself in the Santa Croce area and in need of a cold drink on a hot day, or anything for that little gathering of friends you’re having, give them a visit.

Via de’ Neri, 16/r Santa Croce 389 02 50 515 roccosal@hotmail.it

Home delivered and poured wine in S. Spirito Bring your bottle to be filled for less than €1.50, straight from the barrels of Il Santo Vino. Here patrons can choose from a wide range of Italian wine in bottles or barrels sourced throughout Tuscany and Italy, as well as spirits and digestives. Il Santo Vino also provides a home-delivery service alongside selected local specialty and organic products, such as truffled goods, honey, jam, coffee and a variety of Sicilian spreads.

Monday: 4–9 p.m. Tues. to Sun.: 10 a.m.–2 p.m.; 4–9 p.m. Borgo Tegolaio, 46/r 055 53 87 122 345 90 93 425 www.ilsantovino.jimdo.com mariella.croda@yahoo.it Skype: ilsantovino

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013

CITY GUIDE TRAVEL & TOURS (c4) BUS2ALPS Via Ghibellina, 97/r Skype: Bus2alps www.bus2alps.com (A2) FUN IN TUSCANY Via Fiume, 20 338 59 22 682 www.funintuscany.com (C4) WHEN IN FLORENCE Via Verdi, 46/r 055 38 60 864

SERVICES (c4) CARATELLO SHIPPING SOLUTIONS Via dell’Agnolo, 115/r 055 01 18 470 www.caratello.net (c4) WHEN IN FLORENCE STUDENT SERVICES Via Verdi, 46/r 055 386 08 64 www.wheninflorence.com (c4) TIM Via Verdi, 46/r 055 23 44 407 www.tim.it

CLASSES & COURSES (D3) 19 R Via dei Bardi, 19/r 339 19 70 902 19ryogapilates.com (D2) IN TAVOLA COOKING COURSES Via dei Velluti, 18 055 21 76 72 www.intavola.org

HEALTH & BEAUTY (C5) ALCHIMIA Via dell’Agnolo, 47-49-51/r 055 24 16 04 www.alchimia-hairdesign.com

Daily: 8:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; January 6: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. Closed Jan 1, Easter, Sept 8 & Dec 25. Note: 414 stairs by foot only, no lift

055 26 54 675 (D4) TONO SU TONO Via dei Benci, 37/r 055 23 44 885

GELATO (d4) GELATERIA DE’ NERI Via de’ Neri, 20-22/r 055 21 00 34 (d2) GELATERIA DELLA PASSERA Piazza della Passera, 15 055 29 18 82 (c3) L’ANGOLO DEI GOLOSI Piazza dei Cimatori (d4) PERCHE’ NO Via Tavolini, 19/r 055 23 98 969

SHOPPING (D4) ALVISE GIUSTINIAN Corso dei Tintori, 19/r 055 24 66 295 www.alvisegiustinian.com (A3)American Transfers Via Nazionale, 123/r Tel.: 055218278 www.americantransfers.com (c3) Data records Via dei neri, 15 055 28 75 92 (C3) GARBAGE’EN Via dei Cimatori, 2/r 055 26 70 505 www.garbageen.com (c4) Oroarte Via Giuseppe Verdi, 71/r Tel.: 055-2480423

WINE (E2) IL SANTO VINO Borgo Tegolaio, 46/r 055 53 87 122 (E2) MILLESIMI Borgo Tegolaio, 33/r

(C4) POZZO DIVINO Via Ghibellina, 144/r 055 24 66 907 www.pozzodivino.eu

CHOCOLATE (E4) Vivaldi Via dei Renai, 15/r

POPULAR SITES (B3) BAPTISTRY OF SAN GIOVAN NI*

Piazza San Giovanni 055 23 02 885 Mon–Sat: 11:15 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sun and 1st Sat of every month: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. July 4– Sept 28: Thurs– Sat: 11:15 a.m.–11 p.m. Easter Week (Thurs, Fri, Sat before Easter & Easter Mon), April 25 & May 1: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sunday, Sept 8, Dec 24 & 25.

(E2) BOBOLI GARDENS*

055 23 88 786 March Daily: 8:15 a.m.–5:30 p.m. (6:30 p.m. with daylight saving) April–May & Sept–Oct Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. (5:30 p.m. with standard time) June–Aug Daily: 8:15 a.m.–7:30 p.m. Nov–Feb Daily: 8:15 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Closed 1st and last Mon of each month; Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. (B3) CATHEDRAL CUPOLA*

Piazza del Duomo 055 23 02 885 Mon–Fri: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sat: 8:30 a.m.–5:40 p.m. Closed Sun; Jan 1; Jan 6; Thurs– Fri–Sat before Easter; Easter; June 24; Aug 15; Sept 8; Nov 1; Dec 8; Mon & Tues of the first week of Advent; Dec 25 & 26. Note: 463 stairs by foot only, no lift. (B3) GIOTTO’S BELL TOWER*

Piazza del Duomo 055 23 02 885

(D3) VASARI CORRIDOR

Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 055 29 48 83 Available to private groups only: contact Uffizi Gallery for information.

MUSEUMS (A4) ACCADEMIA GALLERY*

Via Ricasoli, 58/60 055 23 88 612 Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. Closed Mon, Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. (B3) PALAZZO MEDICI-RICCARDI*

Via Cavour, 3 055 27 60 340 Mon–Tues & Thurs–Sun: 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Closed Wed. (C3) BARGELLO NATIONAL MUSEUM*

Via del Proconsolo, 4 055 23 88 606 Daily: 8:15 a.m.–1.50 p.m. Closed 1st, 3rd & 5th Sun and 2nd & 4th Mon of each month; Jan 1 & Dec 25. (B3) CATHEDRAL MUSEUM

(Museo dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore)* Piazza del Duomo, 9 055 23 02 885 Mon–Sat: 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; Sun: 9 a.m.–1:45 p.m. Closed Jan 1, Easter, Sept 8 & Dec 25. (C3) DANTE HOUSE MUSEUM *

Via Santa Margherita, 1 055 21 94 16 April–Sept Daily: 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Oct–March Tues–Sun: 10 a.m.–5 p.m.

Closed Mon (Oct 1–March 31), Dec 24 & 25. (D3) GALILEO MUSEUM *

Piazza dei Giudici, 1 055 26 53 11 Mon & Wed–Sun: 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m.; Tues: 9:30 a.m.–1 p.m. Closed Jan 1 & Dec 25. (B5) JEWISH MUSEUM *

Via Farini, 6 055 23 46 654 June–Sept: Mon–Thurs & Sun: 10 a.m.–6:30 p.m.; Fri: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Oct–May: Mon–Thurs & Sun: 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m.; Fri: 10 a.m.–3 p.m. Closed Sat, Jan 1, Dec 25 & Jewish holidays. (C4 )MICHELANGELO’S HOUSE

(Casa Buonarroti)* Via Ghibellina, 70 055 24 17 52 Mon & Wed–Sun: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed Tues, Jan 1, Easter & Dec 25. (A4) NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM*

Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 9b 055 23 57 720 / 23 575 Tues–Fri: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m. Sat–Mon: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. Closed Jan 1 & Dec 25.

(C3) PALAZZO DAVANZATI *

Via Porta Rossa, 13 055 23 88 610 Daily: 8:15–1:30 p.m. Closed 2nd & 4th Sun, and 1st, 3rd & 5th Mon of the month; Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. (E2) PALAZZO PITTI*

Piazza Pitti, 1 Palatine Gallery 055 23 88 614 Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. Royal Apartments closed every year during Jan for maintenance. Closed Mon, Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25.

LE CARCERI RESTAURANT, PIZZERIA AND WINE BAR NEAR SANT’AMBROGIO Le Carceri is located in the old Carcere delle Murate, which was a cloistered convent until the 19th century when it became Florence’s city prison. Le Carceri is located in the prison’s former registry offices, where the site’s eclectic history can be traced via original prison graffiti and frescoed ceilings from the 17th century. The restaurant offers Tuscan and Italian specialties, wood-fired pizza, an extensive wine list and a choice of artisan beer. Ideal for intimate evenings in a beautiful surroundings throughout the year, summer also sees the introduction of an aperitivo buffet accompanied by music each Wednesday.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Piazza Madonna della Neve, 3 055 24 79 327 www.ristorantelecarceri.it info@ristorantelecarceri.it

Florence News & Events November 2013 No. 3

FASHION

Pitti Immagine 2014

Ferragamo puts his foot in the door of film

Exhibit to begin on Jan. 7

The 85th edition of Pitti Immagine greets 2014 with its flagship events, Pitti Immagine Uomo and Pitti Immagine W, held at Fortezza da Basso from January 7 to 10. Pitti Immagine Uomo is considered the world’s most important platform for men’s clothing, accessories and as a launchpad for new projects in men’s fashion, while Pitti Immagine W showcases innovative, experimental projects in women’s fashions, single-product and capsule collections. Following on January 16–18, Pitti Immagine Bimbo is the only international fair in the world that offers a complete picture of every possible aspect of children’s fashions. Pitti Immagine Filati takes place on January 22–24, and showcases yarns for the textile industry with ‘laboratory’ where future trends are tested and previewed. Held twice a year, the international

fashion and lifestyle events are produced by the Italian company Pitti Immagine and are devoted to the worldwide promotion of the fashion industry. The fairs include daily events show-

casing clothing and textiles, as well as special projects and communication events examining the intricate culture of fashion as expression and tracing its global history.

Ivana Scatola & Emily Outtarac In celebration of his newest collection, renowned Florence-based shoe designer Salvatore Ferragamo recently released a series of eight five-minute episodes of a short fairytale romance to promote the brand. Entitled Walking Stories, the Woody Allen-style 20-minute drama follows the character of Sara (popular British actress Kaya Scoledario) around the world in search of love. Her journey finally ends in Florence, the birthplace of the Ferragamo brand, where she falls in love with an Italian man played by British actor Tom Ellis. Each of the characters are, of course, kitted out in Ferragamo footwear for the film, including Ferragamo’s iconic rainbow platform sandals created for Judy Garland in 1938, which are worn by the lead character. The film can now be watched in its entirety on its own web-

site at www.walkingstories.ferragamo. com. The short film coincides with The Amazing Shoemaker: Fairytales and legends about shoes and shoemakers currently on display at the Ferragamo Museum, an exhibition focusing on the multi-faceted role that shoes have played in fairytales, myths and legends from ancient times to the present day. Curated by Stefania Ricci, Sergio Risaliti and Luca Scarlini, the exhibition spans several rooms and uses a different art form such as sculpture, short film or classical music to explore its theme. The tradition of the ‘cobbler’ in fairytales is examined, along with the notion of the shoe being a symbol of status and power. Sawlvatore Ferragamo’s life is also traced through a graphic novel by New York-based artist Frank Espinosa, and White Shoe, a short film directed by Mauro Borrelli.

Fashion buyers step out for 75th edition of ModaPrima Ivana Scatola Florence’s profile on the Italian fashion circuit is raised yet again this autumn with the 75th edition of ModaPrima, which takes place from November 22 to 24 at Stazione Leopolda. A highly anticipated event on the fashion buyer calendar, ModaPrima is an international fashion show that presents ready-to-wear fashion trends and accessories and, most importantly, previews of next season’s collections. The event mainly hosts the best of Italian manufacturers but also includes some selected

international brands. to present innovation to an international The November edition hosts 150 collec- audience,” says Agostino Poletto, deputy tions from some of Italy’s top companies. director of Pitti Immagine. What is more, it is expected to increase its “The centrality of the city, as well as its number of fashion buyers, which peaked appeal, were great factors in the decision at 1700 at the previous edition in May, to relocate to Florence. The move gave 800 of whom were buyers from more the show an energetic push in the right than 50 different countries. direction, to which the numbers of this Organized by Pitti Imagine, ModaPrima edition are witness.” had previously been held in Milan but for Indeed, ModaPrima’s venue is an examits 71st edition in 2011 the decision was ple of the innovation promoted by the made to relocate to Florence. event: once a disused nineteenth-cen“Modaprima is increasingly becoming a tury railway station, Stazione Leopolda reference point for quality ‘fast fashion’, has now become a hub for contemporary and chose Florence as the ideal location events happening in the city.

For all your hairdressing needs

Garbage'en

Tono Su Tono hair salon offers some of the latest in fashionable hair styling techniques: with cuts and stylings from €30, Tono Su Tono are also able to do the Shatush hair dying technique from €50, a natural-looking technique favoured by celebrities such as Belen Rodriguez and Jennifer Aniston, amongst others. Male cuts are only €19. Wella and Moroccanoil products are both used and for sale in the salon, which also offers keratin straightening treatments and many others. Come along to the salon to discover them.

Garbage’en concept store is the brainchild of three young women seeking to carve out a space in the complicated world of fashion. In our store you’ll find collections by young Italian designers that you won’t easily find elsewhere, crafted in detail to ensure superb quality and design. We host a constant stream of different and innovative products, with new arrivals every week. An ideal Christmas gift for lovers of Italian fashion

Tue. to Fri.: 9 a.m.– 6 p.m. Sat.: 9 a.m.– 7 p.m. Via dei Benci, 37r 055 23 44 885

APERITIVO & light lunch FROM 6.P.M. Located in Via deí Benci, Gallery Café Art Bar is one of the hottest nightlife spots in the city. It offers live music every Wednesday and Friday with local star of the Florentine music scene, Italian-American musician Derek James Mattucchio and his troupe of talented friends. This former art gallery also preserves its vocation to art with exhibitions of young local artists. Offering light lunch, bistro dinner and outdoor seating, Gallery Café Art Bar’s music and art creates an inviting and laid-back wine bar vibe.

Daily from 11 a.m.–2 a.m. light lunch & bistro dinner students granted a 10% discount on meals Via dè Benci, 30/r 055 22 60 204 galleryfirenze@gmail.com

Mon. – Sat.: 10:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m. 5% discount showing Florence News & Events Via dei Cimatori, 2/r 055 26 70 505 www.garbageen.com

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013

christmas shopping

Up in lights A look at Florence’s Christmas Markets Thousands of lights bathe Florence in a warm, wintery glow as Christmas approaches. Christmas markets in Florence typically open between mid-November and early December and last throughout the holiday season, and are an absolutely unmissable part of the city’s festivities. Piazza Santa Croce transforms into a giant German Christmas market for the 10th year running from November 28 till December 15. F ifty-five wooden house-shaped kiosks take over the piazza, with stalls selling products from various European countries. Traditional German alpine crafts and foods are the main feature of the market, such Christmas bread, mulled wine, German sausages with sauerkraut, beer, sweets and little embellished gingerbread men emitting irresistible fragrances. The market is open daily from 10 a.m. till 8 p.m. The Florence Nöel fair at Stazione Leopolda runs from November 28 to December 24. Specially chosen exhibitors decorate their stands as creatively and enchantingly as possible to disperse the magic of Christmas all across the venue. Games, activities, hand-made crafts and mandatory festive food stalls all feature, as well as Christmas decorations and accessories on sale to enable visitors to

re-create the fairy-like charm in their own home. One of the prime features of this year’s fair is the impressive ‘Polar Ice’ stage, where continuous flurries of snowfall on giant trees are lit by five kilometers of Christmas lights. Florence Nöel also hosts a ‘Christmas Bio – Santa’s pantry’ stall, as well as ‘Winter Weddings’ and, naturally, a ‘Santa’s Workshop’ for children wishing to impart their long-held desires to Santa’s little helpers. Keeping the Christmas market organised by the Italian Red Cross in Florence takes place for one weekend only, from November 29 to December 1 at Teatro Obihall. It’s the perfect occasion for buying all your Christmas gifts in one place, featuring Italian gastronomic excellence, clothes, festive decorations, arts and crafts and games. The market was devised to raise funds for the charity, and therefore differs to other markets in that its proceeds go towards helping the needy. The Florentine Red Cross is an invaluable service in the area, providing the most disadvantaged with clothes, food, and financial support. Unfortunately, in the holiday period, the number of requests for aid more than double. Buying your gifts from this market will ensure you contribute just a little this Christmas; which is, after all, a holiday for giving.

A Christmas gift of Florentine craftmanship

Sourcing genuine over generic with bigiotteria Despite one’s best intentions, generic gifts such as perfume and socks may be the go-to Christmas gift more often than we would like. If you’re looking for a genuinely unique, handcrafted and reasonably priced gift then check out Florence’s bigiotteria: artisan jewelry created from a variety of materials by local craftspeople. Florence hosts several practitioners of the bigiotteria craft. At L’Oro Fuggia visitors can discover the tradition of arte povera, where owners Leonardo Bertucci and Leonora Moschitta create singular and colourful works of art using a variety of materials, including brass, copper, silver, freshwater pearls, crystals and fabric at their workshop near the Duomo. The most frequently uttered comment by visitors is, “It’s different!”, a fact that greatly satisfies Bertucci, whose inspiration is to create unique artisan pieces that are simply not found anywhere else. Encapsulating the ‘Made in Italy’ experience, Saudè Jewels offers a range of hand-made items, produced without the

fashion items crafted from vintage American prints

TUSCAN, ITALIAN AND FRENCH WINES IN THE CELLAR IN SANTO SPIRITO

American Transfers was created in 1976 after a trip to the States brought the idea back to Florence. The shop specialises in the selling of vintage American prints, stamped onto clothes and footwear, creating unique items that are difficult to come across even in their original country.

Beneath the Enoteca Millesimi, carefully looked after and hidden away in its 17th-century cellar, rest thousands of bottles of Tuscan, Italian and French wines just waiting for you to find them. Including all the classics as well as young developing wines, you can find the Enoteca Millesimi in the Santo Spirito district of Florence - just cross the Santa Trinita Bridge, follow Via Maggio to its end and turn right onto Via Mazzetta, followed by your first left onto Borgo Tegolaio and look for number 33/r. You can also take the D bus in that direction from the sta-

-PUNK -GOTH -ROCK -PIN UP -GOTHIC LOLITA -FETISH -STEAMPUNK -METAL -STREETWEAR -PIERCING e SMART SHOP

tion.

use of machines, which allow visitors to get a real feel for the authentic craftsmanship that Florence is known for. Situated in the heart of the city, just minutes away from Santa Maria Novella train station, the store offers customized artisan jewels and jewelry, leather accessories and traditional Florentine items at affordable prices. Alvise Giustinian draws on the Venetian glassmaking tradition to produce bracelets, earrings and necklaces as well as exquisite glassware and Venetian masks. The company is named after a Venetian doge and has been in operation since the 1970s, expanding to include a Florence storefront in the ‘80s. Supplied by various Murano workshops, Alvise Giustinian offers visitors the opportunity to enjoy the authentic Venetian bigiotteria tradition in the heart of Florence near Santa Croce. The tradition of bigiotteria has been around since Ancient Egypt. It arose out of the need to meet the demand for jewelry when materials were costly or scarce

specialists in jewellery and watch restorations and repairs • • • • • •

Certified diamonds Jewellery and watch restorations, repairs and resizing Guaranteed watch repairs, of any brand Second-hand jewellery and watches available to buy Watch-strap and battery-changing services

CHRISTMAS GIFT IDEA: PHILIP WATCH BLAZE 3 AUTOMATIC

but developed into a recognised art form of its own. The Etruscans took up the trend, importing glass beads from Phoenician and Syrian traders, and eventually produced their own glass beads and faience (glazed ceramic) in Italy. During the Renaissance, however, the production of imitation jewelry came under fire: in Venice the false pearl trade so threatened the genuine one that production became illegal, punishable by a 10-year exile and the loss of a charlatan pearl-maker’s right hand. Things took a turn during the Victorian period when costume jewelry began to be made by machines in order to speed up production, and the style came back full swing in the 1930s when the Great Depression hit and new materials were mixed with old to create attractive and economical pieces. Today bigiotteria is as much a reflection of its local artisans as a cherished art form – an authentic piece of Florence that makes it the ideal gift for those looking for something a little different.

jewels in murano glass: art & gifts in venetian glass near santa croce Named after a Venetian Doge, Alvise Giustinian has been providing top-quality Venetian glass products since the ‘70s. Its link with Murano workshops presents an excellent opportunity to find artisan crafts from that romantic city, Venice, right here in Florence – just a few steps from Santa Croce. Choose from a fabulous selection of artisan masks and glasswork: from bracelets, earrings and necklaces to decorative items – they make the perfect gifts and with this voucher you can get a 10 percent discount on products.

Mon. to Fri.: 2 p.m.– 8 p.m. Sat.: 10:30 a.m.– 8 p.m. Via Nazionale, 123/r 055 21 82 78 info@americantransfers.it www.americantransfers.com

Borgo Tegolaio, 33/r 055 26 54 675 Millesimisrl@tin.it

Via Giuseppe Verdi, 71/R (FI) 055 24 80 423 339 61 95 202, 327 08 96 464

Corso Tintori, 19/r, Firenze 055 24 66 295 www.alvisegiustinian.com info@alvisegiustinian.com

Florence News & Events November 2013 No. 3

MUSIC

Porto di Mare – Eskimo Bridging cultures through live music at the club where local musicians meet internationals As with any port, Porto di Mare – Eskimo is synonymous with exchange, correspondence, and coming and going. Anyone is welcomed through the doors of this club, which also hosts a pizzeria and cafè. Its focus on live music and cultural exchange is one that the man who started the club, Francesco Cofone, holds close to his heart: “We never play anything recorded here,” he says with a smile. The method of bridging cultures at Porto di Mare is just getting out an instrument and beginning to play. “I’d be keen to talk to anyone who is interested in playing and sharing their music with us,” Francesco says.

The club has also created its own big band, the Eskimo Jazz Orchestra. An all-star Tuscan jazz band born under the initiative of Francesco, it includes some of the biggest and respected names on the jazz scene amongst its members. These include trumpeter and band conductor Fabio Morgera, who played under legendary American jazz cornetist, composer and conductor Butch Morris for 30 years in New York; Dario Cecchini, sax and leader of Italian marching band Funk Off; trumpeter Luca Marianini; trombone player Stefano Scalzi and guitarist Riccardo Onori, who both played alongside renowned Italian singer-songwriter and rapper Jovanotti; percussionists Wal-

WEEKLY LIVE MUSIC CALENDAR Live music at Porto di Mare – Eskimo ranges from Italian artists to soul and funk and includes: Wednesday: Italian singer Giovanni Bogani; Thursdays: Funk, soul and blues; Fridays: Singer-songwriter Francesco Cofone; Saturdays: Salsa band or funk, soul and blues. Check Facebook for more information: Porto di Mare – Eskimo

ter Paoli, ex-member of 1970s Italian jazz, progressive rock and electronic group Area, and Piero Borri; clarinet player Nico Gori; and guitarists Paolo Conte, Ivano Fossati and Riccardo Galardini – to name just (a little more than) a few. The band’s genre has evolved from classical music to a looser, improvised style: “Morris’s idea was to dissolve any sort of ‘formation’ in the orchestra, and for this reason, conducting isn’t undertaken in one style but acts more like a tool for endless different styles,” Fabio Morgera explains. “I conduct a group of musicians but they have complete freedom of the choice of notes; it’s an exchange between us. There’s no rigid music score to follow … In this way, it’s possible to create music together that has an organic quality.” The band performs live at the venue every month, and has already had many requests from specialised magazines to festival directors. Porto di Mare – Eskimo therefore not only offers locals and outsiders the opportunity to immerse themselves in and contribute to the local music scene, but also to witness the emergence of Florence as host to a new style of jazz.

Contact Francesco

Eskimo – Porto di Mare Porto di Mare Via Pisana, 128 055 71 20 34 portodimareeskimo@gmail.com

Artists and musicians seeking to share their talents need look no further: Il Genio Italiano osteria, art cafe, wine bar and pizzeria on Viale Alessandro promotes both local artworks and live music, with exhibitions of young new talent and performances onsite. The restaurant serves dishes ranging from typical Tuscan fare to southern Italian specialties, and can be found in the non-touristy neighbourhood hub of Novoli.

Il Genio Italiano

Viale Alessandro Guidoni, 168 328 23 82 293 ilgenioitaliano@hotmail.it www.ilgenioitaliano.net

Nuovo Eskimo, the bar for popular, acousticstyle Italian music Born from the fusion of two former jazz venues, Eskimo and Jazz Club, Nuovo Eskimo offers the possibility to experience live Italian culture through one of its best-known facets: music. This is indeed the place where Italian songwriters typically perform in a very relaxed and welcoming atmosphere, which is not always easy to find in the foreign-dominated venues of Florence’s city center. Manager Cosimo Marchese hopes that Eskimo will become “a theatrical workshop and a venue open to other types of arts, not just music – and focusing on bringing together a foreign audience, tourists, apericena [aperitivo dinner] and

jazz.” In the small stage of this club some of the most famous Italian singers and musicians have appeared when looking for a more intimate approach with the public, far from the sports hall where they usually perform. This is why Nuovo Eskimo is not just a bar but rather an ‘atmosphere’ perfect to chill out in, far from the formality of the city center’s nightlife.

nuovo Eskimo

Via de’ Canacci, 12/r 396 30 15 800 Tuesday – Saturday: 9:30 p.m.–2 a.m. info.eskimo@palcodautore.com

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013

Spectacles

BritFloyd in Florence Fairytales on ice Russian stars present Beauty and the Beast and Peter Pan

perfect for all the family. J.M.Barrie’s much-loved Peter Pan takes What better way to enjoy the holiday place on November 24. Follow Wendy, period than wrapping up warm with fur Michael and John into Peter Pan’s Nevhats, gloves and scarves and taking a erland, where dreams are born, time is look – or, better, participating – in the icy unplanned and you never have to grow spectacles that Florence has on offer this up – children and adults alike. Meet Tinkerbell, Tiger Lily and the villainous Christmas? The Nelson Mandela Forum is hosting Captain Hook in this fantasy adventure, two ice-skating shows in November by brought to life with sparkling dances, internationally acclaimed Russian ice beautifully colorful and exotic scenery stars. The first is Beauty and the Beast on displays, and spectacular lighting. November 22, which delivers a beautiful For those feeling inspired to lace on adaptation of this classic tale of romance. their own skates, Florence hosts a skatThe skaters take the audience on a roll- ing rink at Parterre, Piazza della Libertà, ercoaster of emotions through romance, from November 25 till January 6. Boots tragedy and drama with their graceful are available to rent in all sizes, and on Christmas Day and during the Epiphany interpretation of the story. With glittering choreographed routines period (until January 6) the skating rink featuring aerial exploits and impressive is entirely dedicated to children, who are stage sets, this enchanting production is invited to meet Santa Claus himself there.

Ivana Scatola

ning less than three years, in which it has performed to more than half a million BritFloyd, widely regarded as the best fans around the world. Pink Floyd tribute band in the world, P-U-L-S-E 2013 is a spectacular threebrings its P-U-L-S-E 2013: The Pink hour show featuring performances from Floyd Ultimate Light & Sound Experi- five full albums, including Wish You ence, to Florence’s Obihall on November Were Here, Animals, The Wall, The Di27, as part of a European tour which has vision Bell, and of course, Pink Floyd’s been ongoing since September. definitive album, The Dark Side of the The tour has seen the band perform in Moon. This tour is inspired by Pink prestigious venues such as London’s Floyd’s 1994 Division Bell tour, where Royal Albert Hall, a sure highlight in the animation and lighting were key features, band’s short but impressive career span- and will include the trademark arch and circle light onstage. BritFloyd have been embraced by Pink Floyd fans all over the world due to its impeccable perfection and attention to detail in reincarnating the band. In an interview with Rock Chicago magazine last year, band member Damian Darlington mentioned that the tribute band differs from others as they “endeavour to provide the complete Floyd experience with nine musicians on stage, a full on lighting rig, and widescreen video projection. While we don’t personally look like the actual members of Pink Floyd, we provide the visual experience as well as a note for note musical reproduction.

Ivana Scatola

You won’t have to close your eyes to feel like you’re at a Floyd concert.” Indeed, the band, which is formed entirely from former members of the Australian Pink Floyd Show, have enjoyed unparalleled success, with Portsmouth News reporting, “Blindingly brilliant, jaw-droppingly authentic … at last Pink Floyd have the tribute show they deserve,” after the band’s launch show in Portsmouth, England – at the very same venue where Pink Floyd first performed The Dark Side of the Moon.

VINTAGE VINYL & NEW RELEASES NEAR SANTA CROCE

THE IRISH PUB IN SAN LORENZO

Tucked away on Via de’ Neri, Data Records 93 is a the perfect spot for music aficionados and those looking for a different take on current music or a nostalgic throwback to decades past. Born in 1977 as Contempo Records, it holds a vast collection of music, from new releases to rare pressings, and even includes recent releases on vinyl. Data Records 93’s eclectic and valuable collection regularly attracts international DJs and it also ships all over the world.

A semi-circular counter, wooden furniture and a Guinness mug make Dublin Pub an Irish haven in the middle of central Florence. The historic bar opens at 5 p.m. every evening and offers quality beer, fresh cocktails, sandwiches and snacks amidst a traditional Irish pub atmosphere. Located on Via Faenza, just a short walk from the Duomo, the pub also offers various promotions and contests with many exciting prizes. The genuine atmosphere together with the helpful and inviting staff make Dublin Pub an ideal place to spend fun nights in good company or enjoy a beer any time while listening to great background music.

Mon–Sat: 10:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m; Sunday: 3:30–7:30 p.m.

Tennis Instructor If you want to work on your swing or just get some exercise into your weekly schedule tennis instructor Celoni Iuri offers professional standard tennis lessons in Florence. Certified by the U.I.S.P (the Italian Sport for Everyone Union) and the A.I.C.S (the Italian Culture and Sport Association) Iuri gives tennis lessons for both groups and one-on-one sessions, at the Marina di Candeli tennis club in the Bagno a Ripoli area.

THE BAR YOUR MOM WARNED YOU ABOUT The newly reopened Jack is ready to rock ‘n’ roll! Come by for lunch or dinner and try the revamped menu featuring traditional Italian food and American staples. Enjoy live music, DJ sets and the costume parties that Jack has become famous for, as well as two HD screens showcasing special sporting events. If all that Italian espresso just isn’t hitting the mark, drop by One-Eyed Jack’s to enjoy American coffee with a free refill between 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. Free wifi is also available.

Daily from 11 a.m. – 2 a.m.

Daily from 5 p.m. Via de’ Neri, 15/r 055 287 592 www.superecords.com

Via Faenza, 27 055 27 41 571 info@dublinpub.it www.dublinpub.it

celoni.iuri@alice.it 3480657769

Piazza Nazario Sauro, 2/r 055 09 44 561 www.thejackpub.com info@thejackpub.com

hibellin

ia G Firenze - V

345452

55 2 0 : L E T r a 80

h s i n a Sp n a c i Mex t n a r u a t s re ay d s r u h T al n o i t a n Inter Party

Thursday is study abroad student night at Salamanca, where patrons can enjoy a vibrant mix of flavours and sounds at its restaurant, bar and Latin disco. Sip a cocktail with tapas at the bar or share sumptuous plates of Spanish and Mexican cuisine with house sangria. Located right near the Duomo, this is the place to let loose to salsa and merengue, or simply sit back and enjoy live Latin music and flamenco dancers.

www.salamanca.it

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013

EVENTS EXHIBITIONS

THE HUNGARIAN PORTRAITS OF THE UFFIZI Until November 30 Uffizi Gallery 055 23 885 www.polomuseale.firenze.it

9th INTERNATIONAL BIENNIAL EXHIBITION OF CONTEMPORARY ART – ETHNICS DNA OF ART November 30 – December 8 Fortezza da Basso www.florencebiennale.org

PIETRO ANNIGONI: PRESENCE OF AN ARTIST, ON THE OCCASION OF THE 25TH ANNIVERSARY OF HIS DEATH (1988 – 2013) Until January 6, 2014 Spazio Mostre Ente Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze 055 53 84 001 www.entecarifirenze.it BOCCACCIO AUTHOR AND COPYIST Until January 11 2014 Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana 055 21 07 60 www.bmlonline.it

UNSTABLE TERRITORY Until January 19, 2014 Palazzo Strozzi 055 39 17 11 www.strozzina.org/en

FROM THE LILY TO THE DAVID: CIVIL ARTS IN FLORENCE DURING THE MUNICIPAL AGE Until December 8 Accademia Gallery 055 29 08 32 www.unannoadarte.it EXHIBITION ON THE 500th ANNIVERSARY OF MACHIAVELLI’S ‘IL PRINCIPE’ December 10 Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale 055 24 91 9257 www.bncf.firenze.sbn.it

BEAUTY AND THE BEAST ON ICE November 22-23 Nelson Mandela Forum 055 67 88 41 www.mandelaforum.i

MARKETS/FAIRS FLORENCE QUEER FESTIVAL CINEMA November 6-12 Cinema Odeon 055 21 69 07 www.florencequeerfestival.it/ PETER PAN ON ICE November 24 Nelson Mandela Forum 055 67 88 41 www.mandelaforum.it BRITFLOYD – THE WORLD’S GREATEST PINK FLOYD SHOW November 27 Obihall 055 65 041 12 www.obihall.it PANAMA HAT OPERA December 7 Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino 055 27 79 350 www.maggiofiorentino.it

THE RENAISSANCE FROM FLORENCE TO PARIS ROUND TRIP – THE TREASURES OF THE JACQUEMART MUSEUM RETURN HOME Until December 31 Villa Bardini 055 20 06 6206 / 055 23 88 616 www.renaissanceflorenceparis.com IMPRESSIONISTS AT PALAZZO PITTI: 12 MASTERPIECES FROM MUSÉE D’ORSAY Until January 5, 2014 Palazzo Pitti 050 29 03 83 www.impressionistiafirenze.it/eng

THE RUSSIAN AVANT-GARDE, SIBERIA AND THE EAST Kandinsky, Malevič, Filonov, Gončarova Until January 19, 2014 Palazzo Strozzi 055 24 69 600 www.palazzostrozzi.org/

MATTIA CORVINO E FIRENZE: ART AND HUMANISM AT THE COURT OF THE KING OF HUNGARY Until January 6, 2014 San Marco Museum 055 29 48 83 www.unannoadarte.it

FLORENCE CREATIVITY HANDMADE IN ITALY FAIR November 21-24 Fortezza da Basso 055 49 721 www.florencecreativity.it

special events

THE AMAZING SHOEMAKER. FAIRY TALES ABOUT SHOES AND SHOEMAKERS Until March 31, 2014 Salvatore Ferragamo Museum 055 33 60 456 / 055 33 60 455 www.museoferragamo.com

‘SUONI RIFLESSI’ – REVIEW OF CLASSICAL MUSIC, LITERATURE, ART, PHILOSOPHY November 3, 10, 17 Sala Vanni 055 69 92 23 www.suoniriflessi.it

FLORENCE INDIA FILM FESTIVAL RIVER TO RIVER November 22-28 Odeon Cinema www.rivertoriver.it INTERNATIONAL POPOLI FESTIVAL DOCUMENTARY FILM November 30 – December 7 055 24 47 78 www.festivaldeipopoli.org A WINDOW INTO THE NORTH FINNO-HUNGARIAN FILM December 8-11

ETHNOMUSICAL FILM FESTIVAL Odeon Cinema December 14-15 www.multiculti.it/it/home

AUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND FILM FESTIVAL The British Institute of Florence Until December 18 055 26 77 81 w w w. b r i t i s h i n s t i t u t e. i t / e n / events/2-talkingpictures

kids

GUIDED VISITS/LECTURES/MEETINGS CHRISTMAS GERMAN MARKET November 27 – December 15 (to be confirmed) Piazza Santa Croce 055 27 05 233 www.vetrina.toscana.it/it/

TO THE ASTRONOMICAL TORRINA OF LA SPECOLA MUSEUM December 14 Museum of Natural History 055 23 46 760 www.msn.unifi.it/mdswitch.html

AMICI DELLA MUSICA CONCERT SEASON November 2, 3, 9, 10, 16, 17, 23, 24 & 30; Dec.1 Teatro della Pergola 055 60 90 12 www.amicimusica.fi.it LA TRAVIATA BY GIUSEPPE VERDI November 2, 9, 16, 23 & 30 Duomo Auditorium 328 35 62 380 www.musicainmaschera.it/

TUSCANY DAY CELEBRATIONS November 30 800 40 12 91 www.consiglio.regione.toscana.it

GOLDEN OPERA – NEW YEAR’S EVE GALA CONCERT December 31 Duomo Auditorium 328 35 62 380 www.musicainmaschera.it

25° CORTONA. THE DAWN OF THE ETRUSCAN PRINCES Until July 31 2014 055 23 57 720 www.archeotoscana.beniculturali.it OUT OF TOWN: ANDY WARHOL – AN AMERICAN STORY Until February 1 Palazzo Blu, Pisa 050 22 04 650 www.palazzoblu.it www.mostrawarhol.it

ART SCREEN FILM FESTIVAL November 13-17 Via Giovan Battista Niccolini, 3/E www.schermodellarte.org/

N.I.C.E. FILM FESTIVAL December 13 055 29 03 93 www.nicefestival.org/

FLORENCE MARATHON November 24 Starting line Piazzale Michelangelo 055 55 22 957 w w w. f i r e n z e m a r a t h o n . i t / i n d e x . php?lang=en

MUSIC/theater/PERFORMANCES

IZIS: THE POET OF PHOTOGRAPHY Until January 6, 2014 MNAF Alinari National Museum of Photography Piazza Santa Maria Novella 055 21 63 10 www.alinari.it

MODAPRIMA – COLLECTIONS OF CLOTHES FOR MEN/WOMEN November 22-24 Stazione Leopolda 055 36 93 240 www.pittimmagine.com/corporate.html

CHRISTMAS CONCERTS – MAGGIO MUSICALE CHOIR December 19-20 Chiesa S.Stefano, Ponte Vecchio 055 27 79 350 www.maggiofiorentino.it

THE NUTCRACKER BALLET December 20,21,22,27,28,29,31 Teatro Comunale 055 27 79 350 www.maggiofiorentino.it

FROM ROBERTO CAPUCCI’S HANDS: FABRICS TO BE MOLDED Until December 31 Villa Bardini 055 26 38 599 / 055 20 06 6206

QUALITY FOOD MARKET December 7,8 Piazza della Repubblica 055 26 25 314 www.comune.fi.it

LECTURE AND GUIDED VISIT OF DAVANZATI MUSEUM December 14 Palazzo Davanzati Museum 055 28 4272 www.polomuseale.firenze.it CULTURAL MEETINGS BY ACADEMY December 15 – March 23 Odeon Cinema 055 61 33 27

LIONS

RED CROSS CHRISTMAS MARKET November 29 - December 1 Obihall 055 29 83 41 www.obihall.it

CINEMA/FILM 50 DAYS OF INTERNATIONAL CINEMA IN FLORENCE Odeon Cinema, Piazza Strozzi October 25–December 15 055 29 50 51 www.50giornidicinema.com/

FRANCE ODEON CINEMA FESTIVAL Until November 4 Odeon Cinema 055 21 52 41 www.franceodeon.com/home_it.php

WEEKEND SCIENCE ACTIVITIES AT THE GALILEO MUSEUM November 16,17, 23, 24 Galileo Museum 055 26 53 11 www.museogalileo.it

SAN GIMIGNANO

SAN GIMIGNANO LUMIERE December 6, 7, 8 San Gimignano city center 0577 94 00 08 www.sangimignano.com NEW YEAR’S EVE IN SAN GIMIGNANO December 31 Piazza delle Erbe 0577 94 00 08 www.sangimignano.com

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013 No. 3

ENTERTAINMENT

50 Days of International Cinema Florence Queer Festival From November 6–12

Florence Queer Festival is the biggest of its kind in Tuscany, representing the spheres of gay, lesbian, bisexual, transsexual and intersexual life through cinema, video, theater and photography. Furthermore, the festival aims to transcend and dispel the stereotypes that encircle queer identities and communicate stories in which sexual identity is an important feature in the narrative. This year, Florence Queer Festival launches a competition entitled VideoQueer, dedicated to young aspiring film-

Ivana Scatola This year, 50 Days of International Cinema commemorates its seventh edition in Florence with the theme of celebrating women. The event, which includes nine different film festivals, presents a variety of cinema, themes, music and styles from all over the world. It includes short-length and full-length films, documentaries and previews, as well as awards and presentations with various writers and producers.

Florence Queer Festival (Nov. 6–12): As well as cinema, this also features LGBT theater, literature and art, including Lei disse sì (‘She said yes’), a project that began as a blog but then developed into a documentary, which follows the plans for couple Ingrid and Lorenza’s wedding, who fled Italy to go to Sweden so they could get married. Screen Art Film Festival (Nov. 13–17): This festival is devoted to the presentation of contemporary art cinema. This year the festival includes ‘Festival Talks,’ a chance to meet and chat to writers and artists of featured films. Florence Indian Film Festival (Nov. 22–28): This year the River to River Indian Film Festival commemorates its 13th year. It is

unique in the fact that it is the only festival in Italy dedicated entirely to Indian film, which highlights the best films from this year.

Festival dei Popoli (Nov. 30 – Dec. 7): An international festival of documentary film, Festival dei Popoli presents the best of documentary production from all over the world, including both short and fulllength films. This year’s edition will focus on Marcel and Pawel Łoziński, father and son who together have created films narrating stories from their native Poland. This year sees the festival introduce an ‘Industry’ section.

(Bosnia-Herzegovina), PriFilm Festival (Kosovo), Cinedays (Macedonia), Tirana Film Festival (Albania), Croatian National Cinema Archive (Croatia), Freezone Festival (Serbia) and Crnogorska Kinoteka (Montenegro).

N.I.C.E. Florence Award (Dec. 13): New Italian Cinema Events was created to promote new Italian cinema abroad and particularly across the pond. Here, the winner of the N.I.C.E. USA 2013 (as voted by the public) will officially receive the N.I.C.E. Florence Award in a gala-style evening. Festival of Etno-musical Film (Dec. 14–15):

Closing the whole event is the festival Review of Finnish cinema (Dec. 8–11): Provid- celebrating images and sounds from all ing an insight into the culture of North- over the world, embarking on a journey ern Europe, the festival’s theme takes the through various and diverse cultures. shape of ‘Dialogues in Finno-Hungarian Featured works include C. Saura’s FlaCinema’ and aims to present not only menco and documentary Soundbreaker Finnish cinema but Estonian and Hun- about the life of eccentric Finnish accorgarian too. The festival ties in with the dion player Kimmo Pohjonen, directed overall theme of celebrating women by by Kimmo Koskela. featuring films directed by women that also tell stories about women.

Florence Balkan Express (Dec. 12–13): Twenty films ranging from fiction to documentary explore contemporary society in the Balkans, including screenings from the Sarajevo Film Festival

makers. Contestant must create a short film (maximum 30 minutes) about the gay, lesbian, bisexual and transsexual worlds. Votes will be cast by the public, and the winning film will be shown in the film festival. Also featuring in this year’s edition is Lei disse sì (‘She said yes’), the project which began as a blog but then developed into a documentary, and follows the plans for couple Ingrid and Lorenza’s wedding, who fled Italy for Sweden so they could get married.

River to River: Indian Film Festival

50 Days of International Cinema in Florence Until December 15 Odeon Cinema, Piazza Strozzi www.50giornidicinema2013.it

Australian and New Zealand Film Festival Lantana

Join the British Institute in November and December for a showcase of Antipodean films that, true to their countries’ native boldness, are unafraid to make us laugh, cry or squirm uncomfortably in our seats.

(Ray Lawrence, AUS, 2001) with Anthony LaPaglia, Geoffrey Rush, Barbara Hershey PLOT: This film creeps darkly into the lives of four couples and explores their intertwining relationships in the context of a murder. November 27 at 8 p.m.

Once Were Warriors

The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert

(Stephan Elliott, AUS/UK) 1994 with Hugo Weaving, Guy Pearce, Terence Stamp PLOT: The plot follows the journey of two drag queens and a transsexual woman across the Australian Outback from Sydney to Alice Springs in a tour bus that they have named “Priscilla”, along the way encountering various groups and individuals. Containing elements of comedy, the film’s title is a pun on the fact that in ‘English speaking’ cultures, “queen” is a slang term for a male homosexual. November 13 at 8 p.m.

(Lee Tamahori, NZ, 1994) with Rena Owen, Temuera Morrison, Mamaengaroa Kerr-Bell PLOT: A family descended from Maori warriors is bedeviled by a violent father and the societal problems of being treated as outcasts. November 20 at 8 p.m.

From November 22–28 The 12th edition of the Florence Indian Film Festival takes place this year from November 22 to 28. It is unique in its attribute as the only festival in Italy dedicated entirely to Indian film, promoting films only from and about India, and showcasing the most successful films at the country’s box office this year. The 2013 edition sees the festival celebrating 100 years of Indian cinema, and to mark this occasion, this year the festival is being supported by Bollywood star and icon, Amitabh Bachchan, special guest of the festival. Past guests include

renowned directors Anurag Kashyap, (Gangs of Wasseypur 1 and 2), Bedabrata Pain (Chittagong) and Vikram Dasgupta (Calcutta Taxi). Over the past 12 years, Indian film has gained in popularity outside its native shores, particularly after the success of Danny Boyle’s Slumdog Millionaire in 2008. With it, the River to River Indian Film Festival’s popularity has also risen among international audiences, the film industry and the press. After Florence, the film festival share its talent with Rome from November 29 to December 1.

miles (2,400 km) of the Australian rabbit-proof fence to return to their community at Jigalong, while being pursued by a white authority figure and an Aboriginal tracker. December 4 at 8 p.m.

Kestie Morassi December 11 at 8 p.m.

Rabbit-Proof Fence

(Philip Noyce, AUS, 2002) with Everlyn Sampi, Tianna Sansbury, Kenneth Branagh, David Gulpilil PLOT: based on a true story concerning the author’s mother, as well as two other mixed-race Aboriginal girls, who ran away from the Moore River Native Settlement, north of Perth, Western Australia, to return to their Aboriginal families, after having been placed there in 1931. The film follows the Aboriginal girls as they walk for nine weeks along 1,500

Wolf Creek

(Greg Mclean, AUS, 2005) with Nathan Phillips, Cassandra Magrath,

Mary and Max

(Adam Elliott, AUS, 2009) with Toni Collette, Philip Seymour Hoffman, Eric Bana (voices) December 18 at 8 p.m.

A brief introduction is given before each film, with an informal discussion afterwards. Screenings are in English and tickets cost €5; reduced price for 60+years and students: €2.50. See http://www.britishinstitute.it for details.

Florenceclub weekly nightlife schedule: For 10 years Florenceclub has been one of the city’s leading organizers of parties and special events for young visitors, students and expats. For a small city that can be walked across in little more than 20 minutes, Florence has a wide range of bars, restaurants and nightclubs. We’re here to make sure that those of you looking for a party know exactly where to go every night of the week without the hassle of having to find the places yourself by trial and error. With everything from raucous beer pong tournaments to high-end outdoor nightclubs, Florenceclub has something for you.

Monday – ‘80s & ‘90s Night @ The Blob Club

Thursday: Kiss @ Twice Club

Florence’s most popular membership club presents the city’s number-one retro party. With great deals every week and all the hits from 1980 to 1999, this is not to be missed!

The biggest party of the summer at Blanco has moved indoors for the colder months. Twice is one of the oldest and most popular clubs in town. Two bars, a large dance floor, a great VIP area and free entry for international students every week. Grab your Kiss loyalty card on the night and take advantage of free gifts throughout the semester.

(Via Vinegia, 21)

(Via Giuseppe Verdi, 57/r)

Tuesday: Beer Pong @ The Red Garter (via de' Benci, 33)

An institution for study abroad students for nearly 10 years, the weekly beer pong tournaments at Red Garter are not to be missed! The tournament is free to enter (sign up from 10 p.m. to 11 p.m.) and there are great prizes on offer (including one of their famous steak dinners)! Discounts on beer pitchers are also available to participants.

Wednesday: Student Night @ Blue Velvet (Via Castello d’Altafronte, 16/r)

One of the city’s newest clubs, Blue Velvet on Wednesdays has become established as one of the top fashion venues in the city. Wednesday nights are exclusively for students, entry is free and the doors open at 11:30 p.m. Resident and guest DJs playing the best in hip-hop and R&B every week!

Saturday: Y.O.L.O. @ Full Up Club (via della Vigna Vecchia 23-25)

As one of Florence’s top student venues for the last five years, Full Up Club is one of the city’s top upscale clubs. With one of the best indoor VIP services, this is the perfect opportunity to party in style! Local DJs playing the best in hip-hop, house and commercial. Doors open at 11.30 p.m.

Sunday: N.F.L. @ Red Garter (via de' Benci, 33)

Over the last few years Red Garter has established itself as the only place to watch your Sunday football, with up to 10 screens playing eight games a night and the most famous American food in the city. Choose from wings, ribs, tacos, burgers and much, much more. Reservations advised!

For more information on any of these nights or to make reservations for buses/tables simply call 342 84 21 509

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013

SPORT & LEISURE

Jog around Florence

As the afternoons become chillier, an ideal way to warm up and explore the city is by jogging. Here are a few ideas: If you head east out of the river, you will soon come across paved, tree-lined parks Parco dell’Alberetar and Parco dell’Anconella, which are perfect running spots. Equally, if parks are what you’re after to accompany you during your exercise, (or distract you), how about jogging down to the Boboli Gardens behind the Pitti Palace? There’s an entry fee but the garden holds spectacular artworks for you to look at whilst you’re jogging, and is especially stunning at sunset. For those looking for a flat but long run, start south of the Ponte Vecchio and continue east past Ponte alle Grazie. At

the roundabout at Ponte di San Niccolò, turn right and follow the trees along Viale Michelangelo, and continue all the way around Piazzale Michelangelo. Turn right onto Via Galileo to bring you back down to the river and to your starting point. An alternative route starts at the Duomo, heading south along Via dei Calzaiuoli and crossing the Ponte Vecchio, until the roundabout at Porta Romana. Turn left onto Via Machiavelli and follow the winding road which turns into Via Galileo. Veer left upon reaching Piazzale Michelangelo and around the back of the square, following the bends onto Via San Miniato. Head for the river to get back to your starting point.

In love with the Jersey player

Fiorentina for foreigners

It doesn’t take a World Cup to unite soccer lovers from around the globe. Fiorentina International offers a comprehensive program for foreigners that includes accredited study abroad courses, coaching clinics, customized team tours and scouting opportunities. A collaboration between ACF Fiorentina and OSA Soccer Academy, the program offers foreigners the opportunity to get to know Italian culture from the field up by learning from professionals, interacting with various clubs, and participating in tournaments. ACF and OSA also nurture native talent by preparing players mentally and physically for advanced levels, organizing try-outs and networking with professional soccer clubs.

Nov-Dec games

Fiorentina vs. Sampdoria Serie A – November 10 at 8:45 p.m. Fiorentina vs. Verona Serie A – December 2 at 7 p.m. Fiorentina vs. Bologna Serie A – December 15 at 3 p.m.

Fiorentina’s new star grew up in Teaneck and Clifton Dylan Nikoletopoulos

Get your Fiorentina shirt with a 15% discount when you show this paper at the FLORENCE CURIOSITY SHOP next to Pizzeria O’Vesuvio in Via De’ Cimatori 23/r.

He was born in a the small town of Teaneck, a suburb of the New York metropolitan area with less than 40,000 inhabitants, the man who is today the number one star of Fiorentina supporters and top scorer in the Italian Serie A championship. The story of Rossi reverses the pattern of Italians looking for fortune in America. It is actually the story of a guy who found his ‘America’ in Italy. Rossi’s father Fernando moved from the Abruzzo region to America to coach soccer and teach Italian. From Teaneck, the Rossi family moved to Clifton, another Jersey town, where Pepito began to play soccer under the sharp eyes of his father. During his childhood, he played soccer with the Clifton Stallions Soccer Club, a non-profit organization that, like many

soccer clubs across the United States, offers the chance for players to play at both recreational and competitive levels. The young talent then moved to Europe when was 12 to find better opportunities for a professional career in soccer and was welcomed by Parma and Manchester United. He became legitimate in Spain, where he played for Villareal. Rossi left Villarreal and signed a four-year contract with a €35 million release clause in January 2013, when he was in the middle of recovering from a right knee injury. Fiorentina took a large risk with his purchase. Rossi’s most important proof of excellence to Florentine supporters came against Fiorentina’s biggest rival, Juventus. Currently second in the league, Juventus has shown to be a promising team this year and was the clear favorite in this

year’s match against Fiorentina. This was made clear when Juventus entered into halftime with a firm 2-0 lead. However, it was Rossi that brought Fiorentina back to life. Scoring off a penalty kick in the 66th minute and then again in the 76th and 80th minutes, Rossi rallied Fiorentina from what seemed like a certain loss in front of a nearly sold-out crowd of 38,290. This 4-2 loss would be the first for Juventus since February and marked the first time in 15 years that Fiorentina had beaten Juventus at home. Finishing a game with a hat-trick was impressive, but to do so in the circumstances that Rossi faced was truly incredible. Today Rossi’s father Fernardo, who died three years ago, would be proud to see his son’s name at the top of the ranking for scorers in the Italian national league.

ITALYS OLDEST AMERICAN BAR ESTABLISHED 1962

IMPORTANT! YOU HAVE TO MAKE A TABLE RESERVATION FOR THE CHAMPIONS LEAGUE CALL: FRANCESCO 349 2968513

ALSO

OTHER GREAT NIGHTS TO COME ON DOWN ARE:

VIA

. GIORGIO

NA IA

LA DEL

V IA

VIA

AS ST CO

GIO VIN E IT ALIA

DE ‘M

IA T

AL C

VIA TRIPOLI

HO UA R

TEN

P BE

VIAL E

CAS

LLE DE V

PIAZZA PIAVE VECCHIA L .ARNO P. GIR

PORTA S. NICCOLO‘ LUNGARNO VIA

VIA G.POGGI

DEL A NTE MO LLE

DEL L’ CANERTA INA

MA TTO

FA RIN I

VIA

EPI

BUO NAR ROT

GRI

LLE

BOR GO A

P. AL

D AR

NFL LIVE EVERY SUNDAY@RED GARTER

VIA

A VI VIA

DELLA ZECCA

IA I LUNGARNO VIA DEI BENCI 35R (P.ZZA S.CROCE) FIRENZE 055 2480909 SERRIS VIA REN TORI AI PIAZZA GIARDINO V IA www.redgarterflorence.com POGGI DI BOBOLI FACEBOOK: S. N I CCOLO‘We love Red Garter

AGLI ABE CHI

LUNGARNO

V. LEOPAR

VIA PIAZZA PAOLI ERI GHIBERTI VIA D ELL‘ AGNO LO VIA G HIBE LLIN A INE

VI A DE‘ MAC VIA CI DE L LE CON CE

VIA

OLO

LUNGARNO DELL E GRAZIE

ER VED I B EL VIA D

GO LA

PE R

VIA DE‘ P

LL A

FIE SO LA NA

L‘AGN

BORGO L A CRO CE

V. S .G IUS EP P

E ROC S. C

SO TIN TO

PE P I

VIA D EL DE‘

IER LM PA

EP P

VIA

NC I

DE ‘BE

PIAZZA S. CROCE

MEZ ZO

VIA M

DIAZ

B.GO

COR

PIN T

VIA

BO R

VIA E VE R DI

LUN G AR NO TO VIA RRIG DE IAN I

★

NE RI

GIU S

VIA

GA RN O G.

LAR A

V IA

VIA DE‘

AZIE

LUN

VIA

WE ARE HERE

DELL ’AC QUA

L EO NI

I V IA

INE GIA

GUIL

VIA PIETRAPIANA

VIA

CERCHI

V. PROCONSOLO

DE‘CALZAIUOLI

ROMA

VIA

DE’

PIAZZA VIA DELLA VIG S. FIRENZE VECCHIA NA V IA D ELL’ AN

VIA

AN IC CO LIN

AR TEL LI

PIAZZA S.FELICE

PIAZZA S.P. MAGGIORE

VIA GHIBEL LINA

DOT TA

V. V

PONTE VECCHIO

‘ORIU IDIO OLO

LE G R

S. E

VIA PANDOLFINI

CON

VIA

VI A

BORGO ALBIZI

CIMATORI

PIAZZA SIGNORIA

IN I

VIA DELL

DANTE ALIGHIERI

V. P O

P. S .

TRI NI T A

POS TOL I

VIA DEL CORSO

V. C AS TEL LAN

DE‘

VIA

VIA PO VIA D R TA ROSSA ELLE TER ME SS. A

. JA CO

PIAZZA D‘AZEGLIO VI

I ON NZ

PIAZZA STROZZI

PIAZZA DEL DUOMO

V. D. OC

Via San Gallo, 123/r 055 49 07 94 www.finneganpub.com

BU FA L

TORNABUONI

VIA D. TOSINGHI

Via dei Fossi, 56/r 055 23 96 497

PIAZZA S. GIOVANNI

VIA STROZZI PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA

NO COVER CHARGE ON E

VI A

VIA

RG OS

Buffalo★B.B.Q.★Spicy★Sweet Chili Spicy B.B.Q.★Cajaun

IN ND RO V. V. D. AGLI V. DE‘ PECORI

BO RG O

V. D E‘ M

ANCHI LI VIA DE‘ CE RRETANI EL

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FROM 4.00 PM L.N O TIL LATE ACCIAIOLI E

‘ P UC

OR O

ST I LA

RIO N

40 cent WINGS choose

IP DE

IGN V. D. V

EL P A

.‘ A

P.DELL’OLIO

V. DE‘B

VIA D

VIA

‘P AN ZA N

VECCHIETTI

VIA SASSETTI

VIA

Mon. to Fri.: 4 p.m.–1 a.m. Sat. to Sun.: 1 p.m.–1 a.m.

Wednesday - Thursday

PIAZZA DELL‘ UNITA‘ ITALIANA

R SP

Via dei Bardi, 19/r 339 19 70 902 19ryogapilates.com info@ 19ryogapilates.com

Mon. to Fri.: 8 a.m.-10 p.m, Sat. 10 a.m.-6 p.m, Sun. 10 a.m.-1 p.m.

PER TACO BEEF, CHICKEN or VEGGIE ★ e 2,00

VIA

Free first trial

Finnegan Irish Pub is the only Irish-owned pub in Florence and hosts live music every weekend, regular quiz nights and student discounts on Tuesdays. Patrons can enjoy outdoor seating nine months of the year, while sports fans are spoilt for choice with dedicated coverage of English and Scottish premiership football, Irish and English internationals, as well as rugby, Formula One and American football. Friendly expat staff ensure a warm and relaxed atmosphere in which to gather, sip Guinness and “have the craic.”

★ Rib & fries combo 8.99e

D V.

Love and Light, Melissa and 19r

Brand new gym in heart of Florence is now open. • Fully outfitted with the latest cardio & strength equipment from Technogym • Offering a wide array of classes ranging from Zhumba to Pilates, every week • All inclusive memberships with no sign-up fees • Special pricing for students • Friendly English-speaking staff • Free Wi-Fi

5 TIL LATE

E E DONN

See you on the mat!

Traditional Irish Pub near San Marco

LL VIA BE

We offer Power Yoga, Ashtanga Yoga, Hatha Yoga and in January we will offer HOT Yoga. We offer great rates for students for daily classes as well as Teacher Training. 19r offers great workshops as well as destination retreats.

NEW GYM NEAR Santa Maria Novella

VIA MA GG

Yoga & Pilates in the heart of Florence - Steps from Ponte Vecchio

DOUBLE SIZE ★ YOUR BURGER FOR FREE

PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO

CELLIN I

DEL LA

FOR

NAC E

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013 No. 3

STUDENT TRAVEL

4.0 Tours Merging travel with education for a first-grade experience Lucy David Named after the highest grade achievable in the US college system, 4.0 Tours combines travel with education, providing customized tours and services to educational institutions for study abroad programs. Its founder and director Simon O’Keeffe noticed a gap in the industry after being approached by US institutions seeking an educational travel experience that existing tour operators were unable to provide. The issue lay in knowledge and flexibility: scattered local tour operators lacked the resources and breadth of knowledge required to meet the universities’ needs, while US-based operators tended to be limited in their scope and availability. With a decade’s practical knowledge of the student trav-

el field throughout Europe, North Africa and Asia, Simon merged experience with vision and 4.0 Tours was born. “I think for a lot of school programs organising trips for their students is a very intimidating thing,” says Simon. “There’s a little bit of a step there that they’re not willing to take. What we’re aiming to do is to be that bridge.” The company offers consulting services for institutions unfamiliar with local territory, customized tour planning and operation for trips that can be guided either by the university’s chosen faculty or 4.0 Tours staff, and the option to design a fully implemented travel program tailored to the individual institution for the duration of its study abroad course. The result is a travel experience that is both informative and inspiring: geology students to Sicily were recently treated to

a tour of Mount Etna by a volcanologist, business students from James Madison University have just returned from SAP software world headquarters in Germany, while culinary students are regularly taken on wine-making courses in Spain to discover the secrets of Cava. “For us it’s a ‘white-label business’,” says Simon. “Our aim is not to be promoting 4.0 Tours to the school or students but to be the consultant and tour operator, so that the tour is branded as a school trip. We’re just there as the logistics manager to organise transport, tours, meals, site visits, accommodation and activities.” Unlike most tour operators that run trips on a seasonal basis, 4.0 Tours operates 12 months of the year across Europe, the UK, Ireland and Morocco: “What makes us different is the experience we have

Horseback Riding Vespa/Scooter Tour Chianti Wine Tour Best Of Chianti Quad/ATV Exc Chianti Cooking Class

with the students,” says Simon. ‘’There’s training. It can accommodate 10 to 500 no other tour operator in Europe that is people on its custom-made trips, from dealing with students 12 months of the single-day excursions to extensive holyear as we are.” This experience is drawn iday breaks, giving educational institufrom Simon’s role as founder and director tions the choice to sit back and allow 4.0 of award-winning student travel compa- Tours to take the reins or play an active ny Bus2alps. Over the past 10 years, the role in designing their own tour. Either company has guided more than 65,000 way, it’s an unforgettable experience for students through the sites, plates and study abroad students. pubs of more than 16 countries around 4.0 Tours offers: the world, and now takes up to 22,000 • Consulting and destination individual bookings annually. Considmanagement; ering that Italy hosts 30,000 foreign un• Tour planning and operations; dergraduate students a year, its influence • Full comprehensive travel in the field is profound. 4.0 Tours leverprograms. ages these resources to provide superb Contact Simon to find out more: location-based knowledge, group buying +41 797 33 74 69 power, an extensive network of partners info@4point0tours.com and a pool of experienced tour guides, www.4point0tours.com who also undergo rigorous company

First Diner in Florence Since 2004

Biking Tuscany Hot Springs in Tuscany Florence Segway Tour Florence Walking Tour Florence Pizza Class Via Bernardo Cennini, 6 50123 - Firenze (+39) 338 5922682 (+39) 392 6339101

nfo@funintuscany.com

Located on a small street near the Palazzo Vecchio, The Diner boasts an authentic American atmosphere and menu, offering such non-Italian staples as pancakes, hamburgers, fries and milkshakes. Whether you are looking to try American food for the first time or simply craving a taste of the homeland, The Diner has something delicious and hearty to offer for breakfast, brunch, lunch or dinner.

Via dell’ Acqua, 2 055 29 07 48 www.theflorencediner.com

Florence News & Events November & DECEMBER 2013

TRAVEL

Europe’s Christmas markets The market is opened by the Archbishop Strolling through the snow-dusted stalls on the first Saturday in Advent right after with hot chocolate or a hot mug full of the blessing of the Advent wreaths. glühwein is the highlight of Europe’s Prague’s Old Town Square hosts a red- many treasured Christmas festivities, roofed Christmas village selling decora- offering a refreshing change from comtions, a children’s workshop and an en- mercialized Christmas shopping to the tertaining program of Christmas events enchantment of a centuries-old tradition. alongside its enticing Christmas fare. Sample the roasted chestnuts and Christmas confectionary on offer, and take home a memento in the form of a special mulled wine mug.

christmas markets Europe’s Little Winter Wonderlands

Europe has proved its unparalleled confectionary, and enjoy outdoor conChristmas charm since the Middle Ages. certs with a glass of glühwein in hand. This year, Vienna, Salzburg and Prague This spicy red wine is not only a delecbring their Christmas markets alive table festive beverage, but a great way to with long-standing folk traditions, where warm up during the outdoor celebrations. twinkling fairy lights, handicrafts, gin- Vienna’s Rathausplatz hosts 150 stalls in gerbread and snow-dusted squares trans- a shimmering mass of color, with Christport visitors into a magical and timeless mas decorations, traditional sweets and world. child-friendly activities on offer. Smaller Browse stalls selling hand-carved wood- markets can be found dotted around the en toys, Christmas decorations, nutcrack- city, including Riesenradplatz, Spittelers, Advent calendars and traditional berg, Karlsplatz, Maria-Theresien-Platz

and Schönbrunn Palace. At Salzburg’s Schloss Hellbrunn Christmas market, visitors can sample Mozartkugel chocolate pralines and enjoy a reindeer-pulled sleigh ride. Booths offer a range of Christmas decorations and handcrafted gifts, as well as fine baked goods and delicious aromatic glühwein. The city that gave us Mozart also offers popular performances by traditional Salzburg choirs and children’s school groups, which lure crowds every year.

BEER HOUSE CLUB NEAR SANTA CROCE

AWARD-WINNING ARTISAN BEER IN THE CENTER

Beer House Club was one of the first artisan pubs in the city of Florence. A few steps from Santa Croce is the true temple of craft beer, with 10 draft beers, three hand pumps and more than 150 bottled labels from all over the world. BHC is also the ideal place to eat sandwiches, fries, pasta and more or spend a few hours with friends playing darts or table football, and enjoy free Wi-Fi, musical events and more.

Mostodolce craft brewery was the first of its kind to open in Prato and now supplies twin pubs in Prato and Florence with its award-winning artisan beer. From pitchblack stout to honey beer and a seasonal Christmas variety made from chestnuts, Mostodolce’s range appeals to the most earthy and subtle of palates. Match your choice with complementary dishes created in the pub kitchen: from the hefty flavours of smoked ribs and tortelloni with wild boar ragout to light snacks and the intriguingly named ‘birramisu’.

Open every day from 6 p.m. – late.

Corso dei Tintori, 34/r 055 24 76 763 www.beerhouseclub.it

Daily from 11 a.m – 2 a.m. Via Nazionale, 114/r 055 23 02 928 www.mostodolce.it info@mostodolce.it

It’s officially time to swap out the bathing suit and flip flops and bundle up in those comfy scarves and boots. Wind your way through Europe’s best Christmas Markets in Prague, Vienna and Salzburg. Clutch a cup of rich hot chocolate or spiced, mulled wine, and admire the snow dusted stands full of handmade crafts and delectable sweets.

Next Trips: Vienna & Salzburg: 11/21, 11/28, 12/5 Prague: 11/28

KITSCH DEUX 25-COURSE APERITIVO Kitsch undoubtedly offers one of the most lavish aperitivo buffets in Florence. Its buzzing, eclectic vibe, comfy seating and moody lighting would be enough to lure any aperitivo-seeker – and yet here is where Kitsch literally takes the cake. With a generous selection of first and second courses – including Tuscan specialties and several vegetarian dishes – sides, salads and desserts all for the price of a drink, patrons needn’t look further for the rest of the evening. Add a DJ set and wi-fi internet, and it’s clear why this is one of the most popular spots in Florence to hang out.

Open daily till late. Aperitivo from 6:30 p.m. – 10 p.m. Viale Antonio Gramsci, 1/5 r 055 234 3890 www.kitschdeux.com info@kitsch.it

Upcoming Trips with Bus2alps

Winter Trip Schedule Prague: 11/7, 11/14, 11/21, 11/28 Interlaken: 11/7, 11/14, 11/21, 11/28, 12/5 Morocco: 11/14, 11/28 Ireland: 11/7, 11/14, 11/21 Istanbul: 11/14, 11/28 Vienna & Salzburg: 11/21, 11/28, 12/5

And More!

The semester is coming to an end, but you still have time to cross a few more things off your bucket list with the help of Bus2alps! Student Travel Experts Connect with us:

@bus2alps