Florence News & Events September 2014 by FLORENCENEWSEVENTS

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Birth of Venus on the Move?

Fra Angelico’s Fresco Restored

Delivery Service 055 386 03 11 www.mrpizzafirenze.it

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Adjusting and Thriving While Abroad

Florence Contemporary Sound Festival

WWW.FLORENCENEWSEVENTS.COM SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

Via Pietrapiana, 82/r Piazza Duomo, 5/r

Where Poets Met EUGENIO GIANI, FORMER PRESIDENT OF FLORENCE CITY COUNCIL

EVERYTHING AND MORE September satisfies both curiosity and appetite GEORGIA JONES September hits the spot with all kinds of cultural, gastronomical and sporting events in Florence and Tuscany. With the arrival of Picasso and Spanish Modernity at Palazzo Strozzi, and ongoing exhibits such as The Pure, Simple and Natural at the Uffizi Gallery and Art and Politics at the Medici Chapels, there is certainly enough art to feast your eyes on in September. The recently opened Novecento Museum offers contemporary art fans a selection of 20th-century Italian works presented in a multimedia format. If you are wondering how you can possibly fit it all in, do not fret: Culture Minister Dario Franceschini recently announced extended

opening hours at state museums, which means more time to digest all the art the city has to offer. As we approach the grape harvest season, new regulations have been introduced to support wine production in Tuscany, after an unseasonally stormy summer has caused damage to vines. Get into the spirit of the season with our step-bystep guide to wine-tasting, and follow the few simple tips to become a true connoisseur. You can put these skills to practice at the Musica da Vino season finale on September 14, as San Gimignano’s wine-tasting festival comes to a climax with the Quartetto Polianilich concert. Make sure you have a look at our events section, as September is rich with not-to-be-missed entertainment. Cinema, art, and music will come

together in a series of shows at Florence Contemporary Sound Festival from September 11 to 21, while the annual marathon Corri la Vita, by now a Florentine “institution” that attracts thousands of participants, takes place on September 28 to raise money for breast cancer research. If you have just arrived in Florence to study, check out our Student Life section for tips on adjusting and thriving during your time here, along with suggestions on where to meet Italian and European students. If you know where to go, you will find the city is buzzing with opportunities for international students to socialize in the new semester. As the harvest season descends upon us, whet your appetite with the exciting events and riches on offer. Happy reading!

September 3rd 1827 was an ordinary Monday in Florence. That day, as usual, important figures flooded the Gabinetto Vieusseux inside the Palazzo Buondelmonti to attend the weekly meeting that was taking place. But on this particular Monday, a friendship kindled between two of Italy’s most famous 19th-century poets: Alessandro Manzoni and Giacomo Leopardi. Two personalities that left an indissoluble mark on the history of Italian literature and, somehow, marked the birth of the modern Italian language. It all started here, in Florence, forever the home of Dante, Petrarch, Boccaccio. Leopardi was born in a small town in the Papal States, Recanati; Manzoni was Milanese. Italy was not yet a unified nation, but the idea of language common to all the peninsula was already present. That’s why Florence was the meeting point for the likes of Manzoni and Leopardi: the Florentine dialect was already considered ‘the pure Italian.’ Here, writers and poets were coming – as we commonly say in Italian – “to wash their clothes in the Arno,” meaning to breathe the air of the real Italian. Like Leopardi, Manzoni grew to love Florence, and it is believed that without the city’s influence, his most famous work, The Betrothed (I Promessi Sposi), would not have become the absolute masterpiece of Italian contemporary literature that we consider it today. Now, we fall in love with the idea that ‘the betrothed’ were in fact Manzoni and Leopardi and their passion for the Italian language. And the place, this one: our own city.

Picasso and Spanish Modernity

Pinturicchio on Display At San Gimignano

Corri la Vita Races on September 28

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

EXHIBITIONS Florence News & Events is the monthly supplement to www.theitaliannewspaper.com Florence News & Events is distributed throughout Florence in all key reference points for the English-speaking community, including hotels and hostels, universities and language schools, libraries, tourist information points, restaurants and cafes.

Picasso and Spanish Modernity

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The much-anticipated Picasso and Spanish Modernity exhibit is due to arrive at the Palazzo Strozzi on September 20. With 90 of the great master’s works on display, this exhibition celebrates Pablo Picasso’s career and the profound influence he had on other 20th-century artists in Spain, including Joan Miro, Salvador Dalí, Juan Gris, Marie Blanchard and Julio González. The exhibit is divided into nine sections, taking visitors on an artistic journey covering the period from 1910 through 1963. The range of works on display consist of paintings, drawings, sculptures, engravings, and a film by José Val del Omar. Coming from a collection at Madrid’s Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, many of the works on display have never been shown outside of Picasso’s homeland. The exhibition features a variety of famous works including: Woman’s Head (1910), Portrait of Dora Maar (1939) and The Painter and the Model (1963) by Picasso, Miró’s Siurana, the Path (1917) and Figure and Bird in the Night (1945) and Dalí’s Arlequin (1927). The sixth and seventh sections form the highlight of the exhibition, comprising a selection of preparatory

Art and Politics

Presenting the Electress Palatine and the Final Season of the Medici Patronage

An exhibition dedicated to the many contributions to art and politics that Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici, Electress Palatine, made following the death of the last Medici Grand Duke Gian Gastone is on at the Museum of Medici Chapels until November 2. The show is divided into four different sections, beginning with the Electress’s early years through to her death in 1743. Firstly, the show explores her education at the Medici Villa of Poggio Imperiale with her brothers, uncle, and grandmother, in drawings of the famous Guernica a section called Childhood and the Ad(1937). In these sections, the visitor olescent Years. may extract a greater understanding The exhibit then moves on to Anna of the symbolism behind Picasso’s Maria Luisa’s life in Germany upon work and reflect on the artistic jour- her marriage to the Elector Palatine ney which led him towards one of his of the Rhien, Johann Wilhelm, in 1691. most celebrated masterpieces. The third section covers the signifWith his experimental style and innovative approach to art, Picasso produced a range of radical works which are found in the Variations section. Another theme explored in the exhibition is that of Surrealism, an artistic form to which Picasso and Dali made great contributions. The relationship between nature and culture is also The Pure, Simple and Natural is rundemonstrated in one of the sections, ning until the beginning of the Nothrough the works of Alberto Sán- vember at the Uffizi. Primarily dedchez, Óscar Domínguez, and Eduar- icated to painters Andrea del Sarto and Santi di Tito, the exhibit displays do Chillida. approximately 80 works of art and 35 artists and explores the identity of Picasso and Spanish Florentine art through a rich cross-refModernity erence of painting and sculpture. The exhibit is divided in nine sections. Sept. 20 - Jan. 25, 2015 Alongside Andrea del Sarto and SanPalazzo Strozzi 055 264 51 55 ti di Tito, works by painters such as Reservations : Sigma CSC Della Robbia, Sansovino, FranciabiMon. - Fri. 9 a.m. - 1 p.m.; gio, Bugiardini and Sogliani are also 2 p.m. - 6 p.m. showcased. 055 246 96 00 The second portion of the exhibit feaTickets €10; €8.50 reduced tures a comparison centered upon prenotazioni@palazzostrozzi.org three themes: expressions of affec-

icant period in which the Electress returned to Florence following the death of her brother Gian Gastone. Art and Politics concludes with a section dedicated to Anna Maria Luisa’s death, with a display of various engravings and publications which mark the event, as well as a three-dimensional cast of her head.

Art and Politics Museum of Medici Chapels Until November 2, 2014 8:15 a.m. - 4:50 p.m. Closed on the 2nd and 4th Sunday and 1st, 3rd and 5th Monday of each month 055 294 883 Tickets: €8; €4 reduced uffizi.firenze.it

The Pure, Simple and Natural Exhibit showcases Florentine art from the XVII and XVIII Centuries tion, the evidence of everyday objects, and the noble simplicity of holy events. The Pure, Simple and Natural offers the opportunity to undermine the cliché of a very conservative Florentine civic culture, revealing semantic changes and shedding light on the “novelty of tradition.”

The Pure, Simple and Natural Art in Florence between XVI and XVII Century Until November 2 Uffizi Gallery Tickets €11; €5.50 reduced

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

A Journey Back to the 1900s

NEWS

Fra Angelico’s Fresco Restored

A restoration project begun last year surface. After four decades, however, on Fra Angelico’s fresco Crucifix- problems returned with the appearion with Saints has been completed, ance of a whitish patina and dust, althanks to the Friends of Florence tering the fresco’s original colors. foundation, headed by Simona Bran- On the occasion of the restoration, dolini d’Adda. The large fresco was the Chapter House room of the mucreated in 1441-42 for the Chapter seum has been rearranged to house House inside the Convent of San Mar- three works by the artist, two of co. which were recently restored as well, Directed by Magnolia Scudieri and between 2009 and 2012, also thanks coordinated by Mauro Matteini, the to the non-profit Friends of Florence. project included several preliminary Fra Angelico’s Crucifixion with Saints diagnostic tests. The fresco had been remains a much-admired Renaispreviously restored between 1967 and sance work, noted for its surprising 1974 by Dino Dini and Enzo Ferroni. modernity of the figures’ expressions At the time, their intervention was and gestures as well as for the incluconsidered pivotal, as the restorers sion of a series of saints rather than did not employ the so-called “strap- the figures traditionally depicted as po” (detachment) technique, but in- present at the Crucifixion. Its ecustead an innovative method using menical significance has also been ammonium-barium, which achieved noted, as the saints depicted come impressive results in eliminating from different monastic orders: Franmold and sulfates from the fresco ciscans, Dominicans, and others.

City now has new museum on contemporary art Florence has recently opened a new tions, as well as artworks and documuseum dedicated to Italian art of ments related to recent decades, on the 20th century, the Novecento Mu- loan from artists, collectors and authorities who have generously supseum. The museum offers a selection of ported the birth of this new instituaround 300 works located in 15 ex- tion. hibition areas, in addition to a study The rooms dedicated to the town colroom, a cabinet for drawings and lections show the many donations of prints, and a room for conferences artists and collectors that arrived in Florence, thanks to a plea made by and screenings. Visiting this museum is the best way critic Carlo Ludovico Ragghianti folto journey backwards in time to the lowing the 1966 flood. last century. Structured chronologi- On one side the museum integrates Itcally, thematically and in an interdis- aly’s heritage with evidence of nationciplinary way, the Novecento Muse- al and international historical events um creates an immersive experience up through to the second half of the which combines artworks with mul- 1970s; on the other side it creates a timedia conveniences, sound devices, historical tale that links the civic collections of the 20th century to the hisand video halls. It exhibits a part of Florence’s collec- tory of Florence with artworks from

the 1960s to the turn of the century. While not offering an exhaustive history of the artistic events of the Italian 20th century, the collection does represent a critical cross-section of the “short century” and its representation. Yet another journey into Italian culture, this one closer to us in time.

Museo Novecento Complesso dello Spedale delle Leopoldine, Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 10 Opening hours (until Sept. 30): Mon.–Wed.: 10 a.m. - 9 p.m.; Thu.: 10 a.m. - 2 p.m.; Fri.: 10 a.m. - 11 p.m.; Sat. – Sun.: 10 a.m. - 9 p.m.; Tickets: € 8.50; € 4 reduced www.museonovecento.it

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

NEWS

Uffizi and Accademia Siena’s Cathedral Floor on View Extend Hours

Changes to the pricing system and demia Galleries on the first Sunday opening hours of Florence’s major of every month and, until the end of museums have recently been an- September, both museums will be nounced, commencing on July 1. open until 10pm on Fridays. ‘Museum Culture Minister Dario Franceschi- nights’ are due to be held bi-annualni revealed that under 18-year-olds ly, featuring late openings for a ticket will be permitted free entry into price of one euro. Six main rooms in state museums, while ticket prices the Uffizi closed on July 22, as renovafor 18-25-year-olds will be reduced. tions to the air-conditioning and lightChanges to the pricing system and ing systems are now underway. These opening hours of Florence’s major improvements form part of the ‘New museums, announced earlier this Uffizi’ project which aims to modernyear, are now in place. There will also ize parts of the museum. They should be free entry into the Uffizi and Acca- reopen in the first half of next year.

Digitalizing the Duomo

The extraordinary marble floor mento is the result of centuries of Contemporary artist Felice Limosani The kaleidoscope can be found on known as the pavimento of the Cathe- work, starting in the 1300s, by several has created a digital masterpiece the first floor of the Portrait Florence dral of Siena is on full display until mostly Sienese artists, whose ideas which represents the marquetry of hotel, which forms part of the Ferrag- October 27. The pavimento is usually and subjects were transferred to the the Duomo’s floor in the form of a ka- amo family’s Lungarno Collection. covered under protective panels for floor via techniques known as intarsia and graffito. leidoscope. Members of the public are invited to most of the year. The crystals capture the intricate view this piece of contemporary art at Unique in the world for its artistic There are over 50 marble inlays covertechnique, complex iconographic ing the floor, made from yellow, gray, details, vivid colors, and beautiful any time, free of charge. inlays found in the floor of the Cathe- The new hotel aims to celebrate art, composition, and beauty, the pavi- green, and white marbles local to the dral itself. both past and present, by displaying Limosani described his work as “the black-and-white photographs of andigital interpretation of the Duomo’s cient Florence as well as modern cremarble floors.” ations such as Limosani’s.

Google at the Opera

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Siena Cathedral Piazza del Duomo Mon. - Sat.: 10:30 a.m. – 7 p.m. Sun. & Holidays: 1:30 p.m. – 6 p.m. Tickets: €4 www.discovertuscany.com/siena

Perugino Goes to Paris

A retrospective of Perugino’s work is scheduled at the Jacquemart-Andrè Museum in Paris from September In an innovative trial at the Teatro di idea came from Cagliari’s Centre for 12 of this year until January 19, 2015. Cagliari this July, Puccini’s Turandot Research and Technological Develop- More than 50 of the Renaissance artwas sent out of the opera house and ment, whose members strive to think ist’s paintings will be on display to into the homes of thousands of on- outside the box and produce new show the progression of his career. line viewers. Members of the operatic ways to engage their audiences. An additional 10 works by Raphael cast experimented with Google Glass According to The New York Times, the- Sanzio will also be showcased, works during a live performance, sharing ater manager Mauro Meli said, “We believed to have been influenced their first-hand experiences with a want to communicate the art of opera greatly by Perugino, his teacher. worldwide audience who could watch hoping that it will engage and interest The curator of the National Gallery the show in real-time. people who normally don’t go to see of Umbria, Vittoria Garibaldi, told The digital cameras inside the glasses performances.” ANSA, “It is an opportunity to comcaptured the opera through the eyes Google developed the glasses as a pare the two painters.’’ of the performers, giving a fresh per- hands-free product that enables peo- Although some say Perugino’s work spective direct from the stage. The ple to re-live special moments. was overshadowed by that of his

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area and representing allegorical figures and scenes from the Bible, primarily the Old Testament. Visitors to Siena interested in enjoying as much of the town as possible can acquire the OpaSi Pass for €12, that in addition to the Cathedral includes the Baptistry, the Opa Museum, and the recently discovered Crypt. For a truly unique view of the pavimento, visitors may reserve a guided visit to the upper level rooms of the Cathedral. Called the “Gate of Heaven,” this initiative is new this year and represents a rare opportunity to observe the pavimento from on high as well as visit rooms closed to the public for centuries. This activity is not included in the OpaSi Pass and costs €25 per entry.

young student, Garibaldi argues that, “Without Perugino, we would have another painting technique by Raphael.” Pietro di Cristoforo, more commonly known as Perugino, introduced new artistic techniques, which can be seen in the works of the young Raphael. This style had a fundamental impact on 16th-century art, as it went on to spread throughout the rest of Europe. The retrospective aims to draw attention to the overlapping styles developed by this student-teacher relationship and celebrate the successful, yet understated, career of Perugino.

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

NEWS

EU Warns Italy on Pompeii

Dracula’s Tomb Discovered in Naples

The Italian government has made the explains why the Italian Minister of conservation of Pompeii a top priority Culture Dario Franceschini recently following criticism from the EU over said that, although projects of this delays in spending the funds grant- size can take up to nine years, the ed by the European Union. Italy re- Great Pompeii Project is now a matter ceived a special fund of €105 million of urgency and a “challenge for the to conserve the archaeological site, nation.” but only 25 percent of the funds have However, positive progress has been been spent so far, leading the Euro- made in Pompeii this summer as 10 pean Regional Policy Commissioner newly restored houses have recently Johannes Hahn to give a deadline to become available to the public. One complete the works by the end of 2015. of the new buildings is the TherThis has become a pressing issue for mopolium of Vetutius Placidus, a Italy, as the site shows serious signs restaurant serving drinks and hot of decline. In April 2010 the House of food which features shrines to MerGladiators fell down, in what Presi- cury and Dionysus as well as a dining dent of the Italian Republic Giorgio hall. Attached to the restaurant, there Napolitano described as a disgrace is also a mansion with a vestibule, for the whole of Italy. garden and dining room. More than Unless immediate action is taken 13,000 tourists visited Pompeii on the to restore and protect the buildings, August 15 Ferragosto holiday, demonPompeii’s status as a UNESCO world strating the ancient site’s ongoing heritage site will be in jeopardy. This popularity and source of revenue.

with a photograph of the tomb, which is covered in symbols relating to Vlad Tepes, Prince of Wallachia, also known as Vlad the Impaler. Medieval history scholar Raffaello Glinni said, “When you look at the bas-relief sculptures, the symbolism is obvious. The dragon means Dracula and the two opposing sphinxes represent the city of Thebes. In these symbols, the very name of the count Dracula Tepes is written.” Stella’s discovery has sparked a trail of research that has led to a new theory regarding Dracula’s fate. New studies claim that the ruler was imprisoned by the Turks and ransomed Contrary to popular legend, scholars ples paint a curious picture of where to his daughter Maria in Naples, who then buried him at the church. have found evidence to suggest that he may actually be buried. Dracula spent his last living days in Student Erika Stella from Estonia’s After centuries of uncertainty, reItaly, as opposed to dying in battle. Tallin University was doing research search is now under way to get to Although his remains were previous- for her thesis in Naples when she no- the bottom of this mystery. A team ly believed to be somewhere in the ticed the distinctive headstone in the of archeologists at Tallin University Romanian Alps, a series of symbols Piazza Santa Maria la Nova grave- has requested permission to open the found recently on a tombstone in Na- yard. She astounded her colleagues tomb.

Renzi Opposes the Transfer of Riace Bronzes The proposal to move the Riace Bronzes from Reggio Calabria to Milan has been met with strong disapproval from Italian Prime Minister Matteo Renzi. Art critic and Chamber of Deputies member Vittorio Sgarbi said on August 27 that the statues would arrive in Milan for the Expo 2015, the universal exhibition that Italy is hosting between May and October next year. The idea of the temporary transfer caused a heated debated but Sgarbi believed he had make a breakthrough after “very fruitful talks” with Calabria cultural pointman Mario Caligiuri.

However, Renzi does not support the proposal at all, arguing that visitors should be brought to Reggio Calabria instead. He also added that he is not normally against the idea of moving artwork. The proposal has caused a great deal of controversy in the southern region of Calabria, as locals have shown much resistance to the transfer of the 2,500 year-old bronzes. The famous statues have only left the region once, in 1981, when they were sent to sold-out venues in Rome, Venice and Milan in a tour that attracted over one million people.

A Sculpir Qui Cose Divine Exhibit in Carrara

In celebration of the 450th anniversary of Michelangelo’s death, Luciano Massari is holding an exhibition which compares the two models of the famous Pietàs: the Pietà Vaticana and the Pietà Rondanini. The project is called A sculpir qui cose divine and will run until September 7 at Carrara’s CAP-Centro. The two sculptures, which both present the Virgin Mary mourning over Christ’s body, bookend the beginning and end Michelangelo’s life. The exhibition offers an insight into the

philosophical and religious aspects of the Renaissance period, as well as on opportunity to reflect on the life of the artistic genius. Massari, an international artist who lives in Carrara and Turin, is a Professor of Sculpture at the Academy of Fine Arts. His career has taken him as far as Rapa Nui in the Pacific, where he installed the permanent sculpture 7 Truths. The sculptor wrote, “My journey to Rapa Nui started from Carrara, from knowledge, from an awareness of my roots that I find in ‘my’ quarries.’’

NEWS

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

Realizing Leonardo’s Projects Exhibit showcases working models of Leonardo da Vinci’s designs

LUCY DAVID A family of Florentine craftsmen has discovered previously unknown theorems hidden in Leonardo’s mechanical designs, shedding light on the full scope of his genius. Carlo Niccolai and his son Gabriele have spent decades constructing working models of Leonardo’s inventions through close study of his famous codices. In collaboration with a team of specialists, the Niccolai family re-creates the designs using materials such as wood, rope, fabric and metal that date back to the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The rigor of practical and mechanical tests carried out on each model has given rise to a number of insights into Leonardo’s approach and surprisingly modern grasp of technology, such

as his famous ‘robot’, which was originally believed to have been designed as an armored robotic knight. However, during laboratory tests the robot was discovered to be limited in its upper body movement and instead possess flexible wrists adapted to drumming, and is now believed to have been designed for use in parades and ceremonies. In his studies for a European Commission-sponsored exhibition of the machines in Brussels earlier this year, Gabriele Niccolai noted how Leonardo appears to have deliberately scattered the mechanical components required to create his inventions over several different pages of his codices, allowing artisans to create individual elements but preventing their understanding of the machine as a whole. This may be due in part to the fact

that Leonardo’s codices have been split up and reassembled over the years – sculptor Pompeo Leoni took the liberty of cutting and dividing several of the codices into scientific and artistic categories in the seventeenth century – however such a practice would have also safeguarded his inventions during times of war. Leonardo’s catapult design in the Atlantic Codex is rendered useless without details of its ballistic adjustments, which are found in a different part of the codex as a series of self-locking mechanisms. A deeper understanding of Leonardo’s codices has revealed that many of his technological innovations rested upon those of his engineering predecessors, such as Brunelleschi, Vitruvius, Heron of Alexandria and Archimedes of Syracuse, which Leon-

ardo adapted to his own context. His Leonardo left to science. Professor modification of a mechanism based Carlo Pedretti, director of the Aron a description found in Herodotus mand Hammer Center for Leonardo and believed to have been used for Studies at the University of California, building the pyramids surpassed all says, “Carlo Niccolai is an admirable expectations when Niccolai created figure, a talented craftsman who has its working model in 2011: a 300kg developed his own way in studying concrete block was so reduced in the technological level reached by weight that a six-year-old child was Leonardo da Vinci. Moreover, he is able to lift it. a person gifted with great simplicity The Niccolai family has been recon- and humility. His work is importstructing working models of Leonar- ant to scholars because it helps our do’s designs since 1995, when Carlo theories and contributes to study inNiccolai dedicated himself to the depth Leonardo’s machines and all work full-time in a desire to realise the technological discoveries made at Leonardo’s legacy. His passion found- that time.” ed the Niccolai Collection, the largest Indeed, as Bill Gates’ $30 million private collection of Leonardo mod- purchase of the Leicester Codex indiels in the world, comprising more cates, we have much to be grateful to than 250 working models created by Leonardo for: next time your car gets himself and his sons, together with a a flat tire, you can thank Leonardo for team of artisans, engineers, histori- inventing the jack. ans and architects. Leonardo da Vinci invented or The models have been displayed at more than 100 international exhibi- modified several of the technological designs we associate with the tions throughout Europe and as far twentieth century. Leonardo’s deafield as Australia, New Zealand, Chisigns on display include the aerial na, the US, Brazil, Saudi Arabia and screw (used in today’s helicopters), Finland. More than 50 working modhuman robot, hydraulic drill, scuels are on permanent display at The ba-diving apparatus, hang glider, Machines of Leonardo da Vinci exhibit tank, missiles, bicycle, floodlight, at Galleria Michelangiolo in Via Califebuoy and jack. vour. Here visitors have the chance to not only observe but also interact The Machines of with various prototypes, such as the aerial screw used in today’s heLeonardo da Vinci licopters, alongside a scuba-diving Michelangiolo Gallery apparatus, glider, bicycle, tank and Via Cavour, 21 missiles; and view reconstructions of Open daily: 9:30 a.m – 7:30 p.m. Leonardo’s studies of anatomy. The Cost: €7 (full price); €5 (reduced); €3 (groups of 15 or more). exhibit also displays copies of six coEntrance, snack and drink dices, in which the visitor can view promotion: €8 the sketches that reveal the workings (between 11 a.m. & 4 p.m.). of the great man’s mind. 055 295 264 The Niccolai family has been widely info@macchinedileonardo.com praised for its ongoing devotion to www.macchinedileonardo.com realising the vast inheritance that

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

Sacred Splendour

Contemporary Art Faces Problems

NEWS

The Treasure of the “Chapel of Relics” in Palazzo Pitti

master goldsmiths such as Massimiliano Soldani Benzi, Cosimo Merlini the Younger and Giuseppe Antonio Torricelli. The inventory of the “Chapel of the Relics” was first broken up in 1785, when grand duke Pietro Leopoldo of Lorraine took a large number of the relics that to enrich the collections of the Regia Galleria degli Uffizi. After that, many of the remaining treasures were donated to the likes of Antonio Martini, who was the archbishop of Florence, to distribute amongst churches and parishes. After extensive research and archiving, many of these reliquaries have been recovered and returned to Sacred Splendour reconstructs the devotion of the grand-ducal family. treasure of The Chapel of Relics, built Paintings from the early Baroque pe- Palazzo Pitti for this exhibition. during a solemn ceremony in 1616.. riod, including works from Giovanni The exhibit showcases a collection Bilivert and Filippo Tarchiani among Botticelli’s famous Birth of Venus may tonio Natali has stated that he is yet of surviving reliquaries that Maria others, were used to decorate some of Sacred Splendour be moving to Turin for the Expo 2015, to receive any requests to move the Maddalena of Austria, Grand Duchess the cabinets found within the chapel. Until November 2, 2014 the universal exhibition which Italy is painting and would not support the of Tuscany, housed within the chapel, These cabinets, which also contained Museo degli Argenti, Palazzo Pitti as well as more than 400 important special cases for sacred remains and due to host between May and October initiative anyway. Opening hours: next year. Sgarbi believes that the Palace of Ve- works collected by Maria Maddalena rare artefacts, will be on display at SaEvery day except first and last Art critic and member of the Chamber naria, which will be one of the main and enriched by the grand duchess cred Splendour. Monday of the month. of Deputies Vittorio Sgarbi has pro- centers for next year’s Expo, is the Vittoria della Rovere and her son the In addition, the exhibition presents a 8:15 a.m. – 6:30 p.m. in September selection of cases commissioned by posed the transfer of the work from its ideal location for the Birth of Venus. grand duke Cosimo III. Tickets €10; reduced €5 current location at the Uffizi Gallery President of the Palace Fabrizio Del The pieces on display provide insight Maddalena and Cosimo III, includwww.uffizi.firenze.it in Florence. Noce welcomes the plan, although into the prestige, power and profound ing works from expert sculptures and However, director of the Uffizi An- others found it quite controversial. In July the Chamber of Commerce made unexpected cuts to the Palazzo Strozzi Foundation’s funding, leading to the cancellation of an upcoming exhibition at the Centre for Contemporary Culture Strozzina, or “La Strozzina,” one of Florence’s most important spaces dedicated to contemporary art and culture. The show was scheduled to start October 1 of this year. On the same day the cuts were made, the curator of La Strozzina left her position to return to Frankfurt and take a position at the prestigious Frank-

furter Kunstverein. Contrary to some press reports, La Strozzina is not closing permanently. Albeit a major blow for the Centre, Strozzi Foundation Director James Bradburne has stated that the show will reopen at a later date. Upcoming major events such as the Picasso and Spanish Modernity show at Palazzo Strozzi are hoped to provide adequate funding to reinstate La Strozzina’s program. A reorganization of the program will likely take place.

Birth of Venus on the Move?

Roman Tombs Found Near Ostia Antica

The discovery of 12 ancient tombs in leading the excavations, told ANSA, the Parco dei Ravennati near Ostia “Our working hypothesis is that the Antica has led archaeologists to be- set up of the surrounding tombs suglieve that a historically significant gests the person buried here was of person was buried there. Historians great importance, such as Saint Monattach a great deal of importance to ica or Saint Aurea, whose church is the newly uncovered remains, given nearby.” The ongoing study could that the dozen tombs are arranged provide important information reclose to one central, seemingly im- garding this Roman town which has portant, tomb. Darius Arya, who is been preserved for centuries.

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

NEWS

Sollecito Graduates with Thesis on Kercher Case

On July 15 Raffaele Sollecito presented a graduate thesis on the Meredith Kercher case, the very case for which he and Amanda Knox were convicted of murder. Sollecito’s thesis, submitted to the University of Verona, analyzed the traffic generated by news sources on social networks and the flow of comments from both sides of the discussion of the case—those who thought him guilty and those who said he was innocent. The experiment revealed Sollecito’s name to be more frequently associated with the word ‘innocent’ than ‘guilty’ on the internet. In the coming months, Sollecito and Knox will face another crucial stage in the ongoing saga of events that started in Perugia on the night of November 1, 2007, with the murder of

Meredith Kercher. The Supreme Court will consider their appeals of the Court of Florence’s guilty ruling and subsequent sentences to 25 and 28.5 years’ jail time, respectively. When Sollecito was arrested immediately following the murder of Kercher in 2007, he was near to completing his undergraduate studies (he graduated in February of 2008 while in prison). He then enrolled in the graduate school at the University of Verona. Sollecito’s graduate degree is a Master’s in Computer Engineering. The thesis, which was written entirely in English and and titled “Social Network Analysis and Semantic Proximity,” earned an 88 out of 110 mark. He now plans to take the certification exam to become an engineer.

Schettino Lectures

Costa Concordia captain lecturing at Rome University causes controversy In a recent episode that seems prime material for a joke, Francesco Schettino, captain of the Costa Concordia ship that capsized and sunk off the island of Giglio in early 2012, taught a university seminar titled “Rebuilding the Critical Events of the Costa Concordia” at the Roman University Sapienza on July 5. Schettino, made infamous for his questionable handling of the Costa Concordia disaster–including fleeing the ship early and failing to assist crew and passengers–was arrested and charged with manslaughter in the aftermath of the sinking. Schettino has said through his lawyers that his talk was “a technical intervention on the basis of my knowl-

edge and expertise gained over many years of service.” Yet his credibility continues to be questioned in the years following the Costa Concordia wreck, now along with that of Vincenzo Mastronardi, a forensic psychopathology professor who recruited Schettino for the lesson. Education Minister Stefania Giannini has called the episode “disconcerting.” The head of Civil Protection, Franco Gabrielli, reportedly commented, “Schettino teaching panic management? That would be like La Sapienza calling Dracula to teach a course on anemia.” Thirty-two people died on January 13, 2012 when the Concordia capsized off the Giglio coast. It was emptied

Pinocchio’s Villa For Sale Julia Spotted in Tuscany

Amanda Knox’s Parents To Be Tried in Florence

Curt Knox and Edda Mellas are being indicted in absentia for defamation at a court in Florence, having accused the Italian police of subjecting

their daughter to physical and verbal abuse during initial investigations into the Meredith Kercher case. In an interview with the British press in 2008, Curt Knox and Edda Mellas claimed that Amanda was denied food, water, and a professional interpreter when being questioned. Knox, the American student convicted of murdering her former flatmate in Perugia, was released from prison in October 2011 following a successful appeal. However, her parents still face libel charges, which could amount to up to three years imprisonment and a large fine.

of fuels in March 2012 and righted in September 2013. In July of this year the ship was refloated and towed to Genoa, where it will be dismantled.

The Tuscan villa where writer Carlo Collodi (born Carlo Lorenzini), creator of the beloved puppet Pinocchio, spent his childhood is for sale. Villa Garzoni in the Province of Pistoia, also known as “Pinocchio’s Villa” or the “villa of 100 windows,” is on the market for an estimated €19 million, according to the agency Lionard Luxury Real Estate, leader in the Ital-

ian luxury properties sector. The enchanting villa is said to have remained one of Collodi’s most cherished memories. The Pinocchio association is thought to mean added value to this unique property, which attracts thousands of people every year to Collodi to visit the Villa Garzoni and the Pinocchio Park.

American film star Julia Roberts, best known for her performances in Pretty Woman and Notting Hill, is shooting a film in Tuscany. She was spotted landing in Florence’s Amerigo Vespucci airport in July, accompanied by a bodyguard and several members of staff. Roberts’s most recent film, The Normal Heart, was released earlier on this year. The award-winning actress has had many leading roles during her career, including her portrayal of a single mother in Erin Brockovich, for which she received an Oscar.

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

La Bella Figura Interpreting appearances in Italy

RICK ZULLO In Italy, the lack of attention to one’s appearance is considered sciatto, loosely translated as “negligent”. When you step outside of your house, always strive to fare una bella figura. “Making a good figure” is important, and is something that goes beyond just looking nice and making a good impression. It speaks to your character and can even be extrapolated to reflect on your family and how you were raised. You don’t want to embarrass your mamma, after all. The elements of “making a good figure” are complex and interwoven, but the most obvious outward sign is your clothes. They should always be clean, ironed, matching, and well fit to your body’s proportions. It doesn’t matter if you’re going to the opera or just to the supermarket. (Obviously you’d wear less elegant clothes to the supermarket than to the opera, but no less “put together.”) A sweat suit, no matter what the brand or how much it cost, is never acceptable outside of the gymnasium. Clothes also serve a function, even if this objective is secondary to appearance. For example, you’ll often see Italians wearing scarves, even in balmy weather. Is it only for the purpose of fashion? Not necessarily. They might be protecting themselves from a colpo d’aria, or a dangerous draft. Italians are scared to death of drafts and blame them for a wide array of physical ailments, anything from a sore throat to bipolar disorder. So you can plainly see that it’s nothing to scoff at. The most important element of your couture is undoubtedly your shoes. Note that when two Italians meet

each other it doesn’t take long for the gaze to drift downward to the scarpe. Only a glance is needed, because an Italian can make an instant appraisal of another person’s footwear. And you will be judged accordingly. (It’s important to note that an inexpensive dress or pair of pants can always be improved by a great pair of shoes. But not vice versa.) For women, the purse or handbag is the second most important accessory after shoes. Obviously, it should match and should never represent a practical choice. Rather, fashion supersedes function at any cost, even if you’re constrained to carrying only lipstick, an eyeliner pencil, and a single Kleenex in your tiny clutch bag. For men, your wristwatch might be the second thing that is judged. It doesn’t have to be a $2000 Rolex, but it shouldn’t be a Day-Glo Timex, either. It should be simple, but elegant— nothing too ostentatious. Technically, it should also keep time—although you’d never guess this by the lax attitude toward punctuality in Italy.

Regarding sunglasses, spending a little more money on this accessory will go a long way towards creating “the look” of Italian style. Italians love their designer brands, and Ray Bans are particularly popular, as are Gucci, Prada, and Furla. Many types of frames are acceptable, as long as they’re not too small. And lenses can be any color, but not too dark, and certainly not mirrored lenses. Italians have a natural, inborn sense of style and good taste when it comes to fashion, clothing, and personal grooming. However, “making a beautiful figure” is not the same thing as “making a good impression.” The latter also implies positive character qualities, while the former is all about appearance. Even social graces and polite deeds are more about conspicuous displays of manners than honorable behavior. Don’t trouble yourself further with the subtleties of this translation because the underlying meaning is clear enough: appearing beautiful is more important than being good when it comes to attracting attention in Italy.

CULTURE

Make Your Italian Sound More Italian SARAH MASTROIANNI You can speak Italian very well, very accurately, and still not sound Italian. Why is that? Here are five tips to help your Italian sound more Italian. 1. “Piantala” (knock it off) with the personal pronouns. Italian very rarely uses personal pronouns io, tu, lui, lei, noi, voi, and loro, other than to reinforce a point. It is much more common to hear “sono andata al mercato ieri” (no pronoun) rather than “io sono andata al mercato ieri” (with pronoun), unless the person is trying to reinforce that they specifically were the one who went. “Io” at the beginning of every sentence sounds strange to Italian ears. Then how do we know who we’re referring to? Well, Italian verbs carry with them the idea of who they refer to with their conjugation. “Parlo” can only refer to “io” because the other pronouns have their own conjugations: parli / parla / parliamo / parlate / parlano. 2. Learn Italian word-whiskers. What are they? Those little mean-nothing words that we all put into our speech when we’re trying to search for what we really want to say, or to get attention, or to make a point. Why is this important? Well, um isn’t um in Italian. It’s more like “ehhh”. So gets replaced by “allora” or “quindi” or “dunque” and I mean can be translated as “cioè”. “Beh” is also a good one to use if you’re stalling for time and “ehhhhh” is also widely used. “Capito?”, “giusto?” and “no?” are tacked onto the ends of sentences to make sure the listener understands, while “boh!” the Italian equivalent of our “dunno!” Examples: “Beh, è proprio una bella

giornata, no?” and “Voglio partire dopo il 15 aprile, capito?” 3. Talk fast. People can always tell when I’ve been in Italy, because I end up speaking English like a machine gun. Italians (in my experience) seem to be faster talkers and maybe leave less space between words. Everything runs together. 4. Use all the suffixes you can. Whereas in English we’d describe something as a “little house“, Italians might say “una casa piccola” or they might break out the suffixes and call it “una casetta” or “una casina”. I would ask a little boy about his “amichetti” (little friends, amico + the suffix etti) at school, and describe someone as having a nasone (naso + the suffix one) if their face is unfortunately adorned with a big shnoz. This type of talk might sound “cutesy” to we anglophones, but I can assure you that even grown Italian men go around exclaiming that things are “bellissima” (bella + issima, the most beautiful) and hope to introduce you to their “carissimo” (caro + issimo, dearest) friend. When I asked a friend where he was spending Christmas he replied, “a casina.” At home. 5. Exclaim! Coo. Whine. Yell. Generally be theatrical in your speech. The Italian language is melodic in its own right, but Italian speakers are generally pretty theatrical. Don’t just say “ti prego” (I beg you), say, “ti preeeeeeeggggoooooooo” in a begging voice. And when you’ve had enough, it’s a strong “BASTA!” loud and clear. You’re trying to convince someone? Use the long, drawn-out “daaaaaaiiiiiii” (come on) and whine a bit. Everybody’s doing it. I promise. Read more from Sarah at notjustanotherdolcevita.com

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

STUDENT LIFE

Adjusting and Thriving While Abroad In the labyrinth of narrow streets and unfamiliar cultural clues one encounters upon first arriving, Florence can seem like a daunting place for students. However, arriving in great numbers this time of year, foreign students soon learn to speak the lingo, navigate the grocery store and discover those hidden Tuscan treasures awaiting them. It is only natural for foreign students to come across hurdles as they attempt to live like locals, but every mistake can be learnt from. Former study-abroad students have shared the following tips to help maximise your experience abroad. Get Lost: Take a stroll off the tourist-beaten path. Wandering through side streets by foot is one of the best ways to get to know the city. You’re more likely to find authentic Italian craft and food shops this way, rath- the words and phrases you haven’t er than sticking to the center. Pack a learned yet, and look them up yourcamera, some cash, and leave your self. worries behind. Don’t worry. All Know the Language: Just to make roads (eventually) lead back to the learning a foreign language that litDuomo. tle bit more challenging, Italian has At the Grocery Store: Less is more. several words that look and sound Italians rarely buy in bulk, which the English equivalent, but have commeans food is fresher with a short- pletely different meanings. For examer shelf-life. Buy a few days’ worth ple, a ‘libreria’ is an Italian bookshop, of supplies at a time, rather than a not a library, so be sure to pay for your week or two. You’ll save money by books or you could find yourself in a not wasting those rotten apples and bit of a sticky situation. The imporstale loaves of bread you chuck at the tance of accents should also be noted, end of a week. Plus your load to haul because by forgetting to stress the ‘o’ home will be lighter. in ‘casinò’ you are referring to a brothSpeak the Language: It’s easy to get el, not a gambling house! by not speaking Italian at all in Flor- Eat Like A Local: Americans are ence, but do try to challenge yourself. accustomed to fast food. We like In stores, clerks tend to respond in En- our coffee on the go. Sandwiches orglish if they realize that is indeed your dered, prepared, and consumed in native language. But be persistent. the car all under five minutes or less. Gesture. Practice. Meet the locals. While you’re in Florence, eat like the Read the Language: Pick up a news- locals do: take the time to eat. Sit (or paper, magazine, even a brochure stand) at a bar to drink your capwritten in Italian, and see how much puccino. Enjoy it. You might find the you can understand. Underline change of pace relaxing. When you’re

have to know your location. While it’s exciting and rewarding to travel all over Europe during this time, check out what Tuscany has to offer, too. A lot of activities and trips can be done in a day by train or bus. Stay Positive: Not everything goes according to plan, but it’s you who determines the outcome of the situation. A bad attitude isn’t going to get you far, with locals or other students you meet. By keeping an open mind you’re more likely to absorb the culture and will be able to take away more from this experience. Understand that you will be challenged linguistically, intellectually, and morally, and realize that it’s all part of the adventure.

Ride A Vespa: Take a tour with Fun in Tuscany and discover scenic routes through hilly Tuscany on a bike or vespa. There is a large stretch of beautiful countryside to enjoy here and no better way to see it than on two wheels. Take A Tour: Bus2alps provide day trips, weekend trips and spring/fall breaks at discounted student rates. Whether you fancy a short visit to Venice or a getaway to Greece, Europe’s no.1 student tour operator can help you make the most of your time on the continent. Medical Service: If you find yourself in need of medical assistance while in Florence, you can find English-speaking doctors by calling 055 475 411.

Where Italian and Foreign Students Meet

out to eat for dinner, appreciate the multi-course meal. No more of these take-home doggy bags! Portions are smaller here and you’ll notice that food is made for quality, not quanti- International students who want to ty. Embrace the fact that you’re eating integrate with Italian students in a the most delicious Italian food, and nightlife context have only few possibilities, since a few years ago the remember, take the time to enjoy. When looking for a sandwich shop, University of Florence moved to the avoid the prepared sandwiches dis- suburbs of the city. played in cases. For the freshest in- Thursday at Salamanca offers an Ingredients find a place that will make ternational Student night which comyour sandwich when you order. Tip bines Spanish and Mexican food with for gelato lovers: stay away from the live entertainment and dancing in a foot-high rainbow mounds of ice truly Latin atmosphere. cream. It’s that bright for a reason. It Moyo is the place of choice for the isn’t as natural and definitely not as Italian youth to grab an aperitivo and chill out in a lounge atmosphere. As fresh. for clubs, Space hosts an internationDrink Like A Local: Wine is part of Italian culture and is to be enjoyed al college party every Tuesday at a and appreciated, not abused. Italians cover charge of 1 euro before 12.30am. will laugh at anyone they come across AEGEE and the Erasmus society were drinking on the streets, so pace your- set up to help European students setselves, sit at a table and drink for plea- tle into the city and organise a wide range of events from day trips to sure as opposed to getting legless! Take Advantage of The Treasures nights out. of Tuscany: To live like a local, you The beauty of learning a language is

that it is not restricted to the classroom, hence why the Erasmus Student Network has arranged the tandem partner system. Through these reciprocal friendships, students can extend their vocabulary in a relaxed environment, learning languages over a pizza or glass of wine rather than a text book.

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

FOOD & WINE

Eating Outside the Box in Florence

The first week or two in Florence dining on bowls of pasta, slices of prosciutto or pecorino on thick slices of crusty bread, bistecca fiorentina, and trippa are more than enough to assuage the appetite and please the palate; there is a reason for Italy’s reputation as a gastronomic paradise, after all. Tuscan cuisine in particular comes from ancient traditions that make dining no small pleasure. But sometimes a little variety is needed to spice up the routine. Why else congregate in this tiny corner of the country if not to encounter some differences? And certainly what is true for the minds and hearts invariably applies to the stomach as well. Those seeking a break from typi-

cal Tuscan fare are in luck: Florence hosts an abundance of restaurants serving delicious food from around the world. If you fancy some Spanish cuisine to mix things up a little, spend your siesta over at Salamanca on Via Ghibellina, an excellent Spanish tapas bar that turns into a discoteca after 10 p.m. Its considerable menu features small tapas plate offerings, ceviche, paella and, of course, house sangria, for good food and good fun in true Spanish style. Next is The Diner on Via dell’Acqua, near the Bargello National Museum. Here you can find that all-American breakfast that Italians just can’t seem to get right, along with a whole break-

fast menu and a variety of burgers, salads, wraps and bagels–that’s right, New Yorkers, you can get a decent bagel all the way out here. The Diner also has veggie options which aren’t found in Italy as easily as back home. Bringing spice and color to the environs of Florence, Fiesole is home to Indian restaurant Ristorante India: lauded by various international guides as one of the best in Europe, you’ve got every reason to get eating outside the box in this locale. Here you can sample dishes from Mughlai cuisine, that of North India, to excite and smart the senses, especially if you’ve been looking for something a bit spicier than Italian dining has to offer.

Pino Walks the Silk Road

As the owner of Salumeria Verdi, Pino enjoys a fame that is not merely limited to American students in Florence but has now reached the Asian market. In fact, Lianorg.com, a European travel information website targeting the Asian market, has awarded Pino a Top Choice 2014 medal, one 58 Florentine restaurant operators to make the list out of 4831 Europe-wide. Lianorg also rates hotels, tourism attractions and stores, voted by Asian consumers and selected by a panel of judges, which in 2014 included 516 cities in 44 European countries. Salumeria Verdi has gained something of a cult status amongst Florence’s student population since its inauguration in the late 1980s, largely due to Pino’s magnanimous personality and eclectically titled panini.

These are famously named after students, such as ‘Mister Talk’ and ‘Emily’, while others are merely self-explanatory, such as ‘The Best’, invented to present an answer to the perennial question, “Which one’s the best?” Pino often greets former students who re-visit Florence as adults – in one case a student who returned 11 years later – and his place in the Florentine student consciousness is indicated by the fact that all Stanford students arriving for a semester in Florence will find a full bio of Pino and his shop in their handbook. Lianorg.com aims to establish a direct communicative bridge between Asian consumers and European businesses, and promotes Top Choice winners through websites, travel guides, books, videos and apps.

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

Wine, 2014

FOOD & WINE

Rainy season affects production LUCY DAVID Tuscany’s governing body Regione Toscana has authorized the use of concentrated grape must in the production of wine from the 2014 harvest, thereby allowing an increase in the natural alcoholic strength of wine and wine products bearing the IGP (Protected Geographic Indication) and DOP (Protected Denomination of Origin) label. The authorization adheres to an EU regulation and is due to climatic conditions affecting this year’s harvest, in which Tuscany’s mild and rainy winter followed by heavy storms in summer have damaged vines and created ideal conditions for the development of fungal diseases, consequently impeding the maturation of the grapes. The conditions have hit organic wine producers particularly hard, and if the 2014 season yields poorly it could result in a price spike in the sale of wine across the market. However, it still remains to be seen whether Tuscan wine producers will need to implement the authorization, as the maturation of the grapes may still be salvaged depending on upcoming weather conditions. “We still have a few weeks to properly understand how this year’s harvest will turn out; if it will be of good quality and high yield,” says Mariella Croda of Il Santo Vino, which sells wine from producers directly to the public. “Therefore, even though the weather conditions have been difficult, wine producers here in Tuscany still remain confident.”

Known as la vendemmia, the grape harvest traditionally takes place during September and October and in Tuscany dates back to the Etruscan era more than 2500 years ago. The Etruscans are believed to have not only domesticated and bred the antecedents of today’s Sangiovese and Lambrusco grapes – the former famous today as the signature component of Chianti – but to have also experimented with various techniques, including grafting and hybrids. During the Roman period, wine was cooled with snow or heated according to the season, and occasionally seawater or salted water was added in the belief that this rendered the wine sweeter. Romans also played with flavor combinations, exposing wine containers to heat or smoke, and adding honey or infusions made from various ingredients, including rose petals, saffron, cedar, violets, and cinnamon. Today the harvest is highly regulated; EU legislation divides wine production into two categories, those types clas-

Reds account for 80 percent of Tuscan wine

Tasting Tips

Step by Step Wine Appreciation

There is much more to the appearance of wine than its basic red or white distinction. Consider whether the color is darker in the center, if the liquid is clear or opaque, and whether there is visible sediment throughout or it is concentrated at the bottom. Next it is time for the initial smell: bring your nose about an inch from tip of the glass and inhale the aromas. Notice strong smells of fruit, oak, citrus, or flowers. Now swirl the wine around in the glass for 10 to 15 seconds; this will allow more of the aromas to escape up to your nose. sified according to “Denomination of For the next smell put your nose into Origin and Geographical Indication” the glass of wine and inhale a deep – further divided into DOP and IGP to breath through your nose. Notice any denote a protected area – and those differences that change in the scent of that fall outside it, known simply the wine. Smell is one of the best indias “wine.” Italian wines are further cators of a wine’s quality, so be sure to sub-divided to indicate denomina- enjoy the full aroma of a wine. tions of origin that have been controlled (DOC) or controlled and guaranteed (DOCG). Chianti Classico DOCG is the feather in the cap of Florence’s Chianti region, Named after Dante Alighieri’s most and yields are limited to a maximum famous work, The Divine Comedy, of three tons per acre for Chianti Clas- this homely, rustic restaurant fittingsico and four tons for standard Chian- ly lies on Via dei Cimatori, only a few ti, as a measure of quality control. In meters away from Dante’s House. fact, up until 2006 Chianti Classico The venue prides itself on its innoincluded white grape varieties such vative and creative idea of preparing as Trebbiano and Malvasia but these solely traditional dishes based on meare now outlawed. While Chianti dieval recipes. Classico comprises at least 80 percent Some are adapted and revisited for Sangiovese grapes, this percentage the modern age but in a way that one can rise to 100 percent for the so- maintains the omnipresent feeling of called “Super Tuscans.” Florentine history and tradition – so much so that Dante himself could Il Santo Vino walk in and dine next to you. As a matter of fact, this is a regular ocDrop into Il Santo Vino for vino currence at Taverna La Divina Comsfuso; wine sold by the liter direct media, as the venue regularly hosts from producers. Borgo Tegolaio, 46/r recitals from Dante’s great work by 055 53 87 122 // 345 90 93 425 professional costumed performers. www.ilsantovino.jimdo.com Traditional medieval-style dishes inmariella.croda@yahoo.it clude home-made ribbon pasta with

Now you are ready for the taste portion of the test. On the first sip, be sure to keep it in your mouth, swishing it all over your tongue to allow the taste to reach all of your taste buds. Notice if the wine tastes dry, rich, fruity, or oaky. Take another sip, this time through your mouth, exhaling through your nose to release more disguised flavors directly to your tongue. Notice any differences between the first and second sip. Remember that certain looks, smells, and tastes do not outright mean a wine is bad. It is personal opinion, and a wine will only truly be poor if there are extremely negative looks, scents, and tastes. In order to perfect what you enjoy, try many different wines, and jot down what you enjoy about each.

Dining with Dante

wild boar and mushroom sauce, roast shin of pork with new potatoes and seasonal vegetables, risotto inspired by medieval Tuscan flavors, and tasting plates of assorted cheeses accompanied with fresh fruit and jams, including the taverna’s specialty hot red pepper jam. Also serving as a wine bar and pizzeria, the restaurant offers an eclectic selection of wines from its cellar, an outdoor summer terrace, and is fittingly decorated in a medieval style with armour and banners – and, of course, a mandatory bust of Dante himself.

Taverna La Divina Commedia Via dei Cimatori, 7/r 055 21 53 69 Open daily: 11.30 a.m.–12.30 a.m.

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

FOOD & WINE

An Enduring Florentine Tradition Banned by Lorenzo the Magnificent, lampredotto is still alive in Piazza de’ Cimatori high-quality yet affordable street food for more than 80 years. While this kiosk offers a variety of panini, including a delicious panino con porchetta (pork) for the less outgoing, its most popular product remains the lampredotto, which is boiled all day long, from 9 a.m. until 9 p.m. This specialty attracts a wide variety of clients, with roughly 30 percent of customers being tourists, along with a large local fan base and visitors who come from as far away as Milan specifically for the famous sandwiches. Indeed, approximately 250,000 kilograms of trippa and 80,000 kilograms of lampredotto are consumed in Florence each year, which indicates that this historical curiosity is far from losing its popularity. These are panini are worth trying. The meat is incredibly tender, if a slightly disconcerting texture, and it is well-seasoned and dripping in delicious, herby gravy and topped off with salsa verde. It is fair to say that eating a cow’s stomach is not for everyone,

Your one-stop shop for a lampredotto sandwich in Piazza dei Cimatori and San Lorenzo

In true Florentine tradition, the outdoor food cart provides trippa, lampredotto, lesso, poppa, matrice, porchetta, salumi, and wild boar sausages made fresh daily. L’Antico Trippaio is the best place to enjoy excellent panini and focacce like a true local. Just steps from the Duomo, it is one of the most frequented lunch spots in the historic city city. center. LARA MAY In order to fully understand this FloThe smell of tripe cooking on the rentine meal, an explanation of what streets of Florence was once so over- tripe is and how it is cooked might be www.anticotrippaio.it whelming that Lorenzo de’ Medici useful. Trippa, or tripe, is made from banned the kiosks altogether. Howev- the cow’s pre-stomachs, and is soft, er, such was its popularity that once white, and mostly flavorless. Enjoyed the Medici lost power, tripe returned in many regions of Italy, it is cooked in force and secured its place as a in a variety of ways. Lampredotto, however, is the uniquemainstay of Florentine street food. Initially, tripe was a staple food for ly local Florentine version, made from laborers and the working classes, and the cow’s fourth stomach, called the it dates as far back as the fourteenth abomasum. The name lampredotto century. Simple wooden street carts comes, curiously, from the Italian served sandwiches stuffed with tripe, word for lamprey eels, lampreda— and this tradition continues today, al- once very abundant in the waters of beit in the more sophisticated kiosks the Arno River—as it resembles the that can be found dotted around the inside of the mouth of a lamprey in

Sandwiches Salads Soups Onion Rings Fries Pasta Smoothies

Monday - Saturday 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. Via Sant'Egidio 22/r 347 11 88 056 theoilshoppe.it

Two Florentine traditions: trippa and lampredotto Trippa is the soft and flavorless lining of a cow’s pre-stomach, while lampredotto is made from the cow’s fourth stomach, called the abomasum. Rinsed and boiled for several hours and served up on a Tuscan bread roll with chilli oil and salsa verde, lampredotto is the street food most beloved by Florentines.

shape and color. Tuscan cooks rinse lampredotto well and boil it with tomatoes, onions, parsley and celery for two to three hours. The meat is then served in a Tuscan saltless bread roll (panino) with salt, pepper, chilli oil or salsa verde (green sauce), with the top slice of the roll dunked in the lampredotto stock. For the most authentic and delicious experience of tripe, locals recommend L’Antico Trippaio, which has a reputation for making the best panino con lampredotto in town. Located in the Piazza dei Cimatori, L’Antico Trippaio has an impressive track record; it has provided Florentines with

SOFT DRINK R O CCO

Il Cencio Unto THE BEST SUBS IN TOWN

but it is certainly worth giving it a go, and you may be pleasantly surprised! What is more, alongside L’Antico Trippaio is the aptly named L’Angolo dei Golosi—the “Gourmand Corner”—run by the same owners. With its wide range of delicious sweets and gelati, L’Angolo can provide the perfect end to a truly authentic Florentine meal. Who needs a Big Mac and a McFlurry when medieval fast food is on the menu?

TUSCAN COLD CUTS AND FRESH SANDWICHES

HOME DELIVERED AND POURED WINE IN S. SPIRITO

DRINKS AND MORE ON VIA DE’ NERI

Located in Via de’ Cerchi, Il Cencio Unto is the place where you can taste various typical Tuscan cold cuts and tasting plates. Il Cencio Unto is very selective in its choice of products and offers fresh ingredients, made-to-order dishes with delicious toppings, and a wide selection of wines.

Bring your bottle to be filled for less than €1.50, straight from the barrels of Il Santo Vino. Here patrons can choose from a wide range of Italian wine in bottles or barrels sourced throughout Tuscany and Italy, as well as spirits and digestives. Il Santo Vino also provides a homedelivery service alongside selected local specialty and organic products, such as truffled goods, honey, jam, coffee and a variety of Sicilian spreads.

Whether you want an iced coffee or a bottle of wine, a beer and crisps or a refreshing soda, Soft Drink Rocco has got you covered. It has everything that you could need at a moment’s notice, selling a wide variety of alcohol, soft drinks and foodstuffs. Snugly settled on Via de’ Neri, if you find yourself in the Santa Croce area and in need of a cold drink on a hot day, or anything for that little gathering of friends you’re having, give them a visit.

Open daily: 10-12 a.m. Specialty:

COCCOLI

Via de’ Cerchi, 25/r 055 21 99 90 info@ilcenciounto.it www.ilcenciounto.it

Monday: 5–9 p.m. Tues. to Sun.: 10 a.m.–2 p.m.; 5–9 p.m. Borgo Tegolaio, 46/r 055 53 87 122 // 345 90 93 425 www.ilsantovino.jimdo.com mariella.croda@yahoo.it Skype: ilsantovino

Via de’ Neri, 16/r Santa Croce 389 02 50 515 roccosal@hotmail.it

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

BrewDog Launches First Italian Bar in Florence

BrewDog has just launched its first-ever bar in Italy in Florence’s own Via Faenza, situated in the heart of the city near the Duomo. True to its craft brew philosophy, the bar offers artisan beer-tasting hosted by expert brewers, and live music alongside a range of American diner-style dishes. The new premises comprises two floors with the capacity to accommodate up to 120 people, and is decked out in BrewDog’s characteristically post-industrial decor in steel, brickwork and weathered wood, lit with vintage lamps and colored neon signs. Self-described as a producer of beers that are “the epitome of pure punk,” BrewDog’s range of craft brews includes headliners Punk IPA, 5am Red

Ale, Brixton Porter and Dead Pony Pale Ale. It regularly performs brewing feats, having created the world’s strongest-ever beer, Tactical Nuclear Penguin at 32 percent, and even a beer brewed at the bottom of the ocean. The company has seen unprecedented success since it was dreamed up by friends James Watt and Martin Dickie in 2007, becoming Scotland’s largest independent brewery in its second year of operation, with average revenue growth of 167 percent over the last five years. In addition to its new premises in Florence, BrewDog bars now number more than 20 world-wide, situated throughout the UK and as far-flung as Tokyo, São Paulo and Sweden, with a new bar in Finland set to open soon.

Aperitivo Explained Beyond the world of wine lies a wide assortment of cocktails to discover in Italy, including the Negroni, the Spritz, and the Americano. These iconic Italian cocktails feature distinctive ingredients like Aperol, Campari and Vermouth and contain flavors that stimulate the appetite—thus, perfect for the Italian aperitivo. The social activity known as aperitivo takes place in a lively atmosphere, at a bar or party, accompanied by light-tasting cocktails and pre-dinner snacks. Aperitivo happens almost every night of the week and in some locales the finger foods are abundant enough to make a full meal, at the price of an 8 or 9 euro cocktail. Negroni, Spritz, and Americano are the quintessential Italian apéritifs.

Intended to whet the palate, these soda water, and an orange instead of three cocktails usually contain Cam- a lemon, to distinguish this new and pari, but are also offered with some different drink. The cocktail was so minor variations. well received that the Negroni family The Americano is made with half founded a Negroni Distillery in TrevCampari, half sweet Vermouth, and iso, Italy. soda water, and is garnished with Currently there are three different lemon. variations of the Negroni cocktail. It was originally served in Gaspare The Spritz cocktail, another popular Campari’s café in Milan and called choice for aperitivo, is made with one the Milano-Torino cocktail in refer- ounce of Aperol, two ounces Prosecence to the Campari from Milan and co, and seltzer. For those who prefer Vermouth from Turin. However, as a more bitter flavor, Campari can be the drink grew in popularity among used instead of the sweeter, lighter American tourists, it became known Aperol. as the Americano. Venturing away from standard AmerIn 1919, when Count Camillo Negroni ican cocktails makes for a delicious was at Florence’s Caffè Casoni (now change of pace, while experiencing Caffè Giacosa), he ordered his Amer- the Italian aperitivo tradition takes icano a little bit stronger. The bar- you a step closer to adopting the Italtender decided to add gin instead of ian lifestyle. Cin cin!

FOOD & WINE

Neopolitan Vegetarian Pizza Ingredients (serves 2) Dough: • ¼ ounce active dry yeast • ¼ cup lukewarm water (110°F) • 3-3 ½ cups of “00” flour • 2 tbsp salt • 2 tbsp olive oil Sauce: • Canned peeled stewed Roma tomatoes • Handful of basil • Pinch of salt Toppings: • 1 tbsp olive oil • 2 oz eggplants • 2 oz bell peppers • 2 oz zucchini • 2 oz mushrooms • 2 oz black olives • 4 oz tomatoes • 4 oz mozzarella di Bufala cheese

Preparation: Mix the flour, water, salt, yeast and olive oil to make your perfect dough. Once that is complete, set aside and leave to rise in refrigerator for 2 days. To make the sauce, blend the tomatoes, basil and salt with a hand mixer until smooth. Slice the vegetables thinly to create your toppings. Now you are ready to build your pizza pie. Retrieve the dough that has doubled in size and roll to a 8”10” diameter. Place on floured pizza stone or pie tin. With a large serving spoon, spread sauce on dough. Remember to leave an inch without sauce. This will be your crust. Top with your sliced veggies and fresh mozzarella. Cook in oven at maximum heat for 3-4 mins or until crust is golden brown. Enjoy!!

This recipe is provided by:

Pizzeria O’ Vesuvio Via dei Cimatori, 21/r 055 285 487 info@ovesuviofirenze.com www.ovesuviofirenze.com

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

BUSINESS DIRECTORY TOURIST INFORMATION COOKING COURSES IN SANTO SPIRITO In Tavola aims to spread Italian food- and wine-rich regional culinary traditions, such as those of Tuscany with its variety of dishes and recipes. Cooking classes as well as individual lessons for both professionals and beginners are offered, with special deals for students.

Courses include: Market tour & cooking class, Four-course dinner, Via dei Velluti, 18 Easy dinner, Easy lunch, Home-made pasta, 055 21 76 72 www.intavola.org Pizza & gelato

info@intavola.org

Firenze Turismo ......... 055 29 08 32 // 055 29 08 33 Via Cavour, 1/r Mon–Sat: 8:30a.m.–6:30p.m. (Closed on Sundays and public holidays; see Commune info points below for Sunday hours.) info1@firenzeturismo.it www.firenzeturismo.it Florence Airport ............................ 055 31 58 74 Via del Termine, 1 Daily: 8:30a.m.–8:30p.m. infoaeroporto@firenzeturismo.it Commune ..................................... 055 21 22 45 Piazza Stazione, 4 Mon–Sat: 8:30a.m.–7p.m. Sundays & public holidays: 8:30a.m.–2p.m. turismo3@comune.fi.it www.comune.fi.it Bigallo loggia ................................ 055 28 84 96 Piazza San Giovanni Mon–Sat: 9a.m.–7p.m. Sundays & public holidays: 9a.m.–2p.m. bigallo@comune.fi.it

EMERGENCY SERVICES

HAIRDRESSING SALON IN VIA DE’ BENCI • • • • • • • • • • • •

Special Offer:

HAMBURGER + 1 DRINK € 10

Tue. to Sun.: 6 p.m.–2 a.m. Via G. Verdi, 47r, 055 38 80 034 www.saloonbargrill.com

Shampoo & dry (short) ......... €15/€16 Shampoo & dry (long) ......... €18/€20 Cut .................................................... €15 Perm ............................................... €30 Color [tips] ...................................... €24 Color [full] ....................................... €32 Toning .............................................. €17 Highlights with headset ............... €29 Highlights with spatula ................ €32 Woven highlights ........................... €41 Two-toned Highlights .................. €62 Shampoo & cut (men) .................. €20

Tue. to Thurs.: 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Fri. to Sat.: 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Via dei Benci, 37r 055 234 48 85

Police – emergency ........................................ 113 Police – carabinieri ......................................... 112 Police – municipal ...................... 055 32 83 333 Ambulance ........................................................ 118 Fire department .............................................. 115 Tourist medical service .................. 055 21 22 21 Poison Center ................................ 055 79 47 819 Pharmacies (open) ...................... 800 42 07 07 Vehicle breakdown (ACI) ................................ 116 Obstruction& towed vehicle ....... 055 42 24 142 Civil protection services .................. 800 01 5 161 Child abuse hotline .......................................... 114 Emergency vet services ............. 055 72 23 683 Environmental emergency response ........ 1515 Lost & Found (Florence office) ... 055 33 48 02

TRANSPORT BUS & COACH ATAF (www.ataf.net) .................. 800 42 45 00 BluBlus (www.blubus.it) ............. 800 27 78 25 SITA Nord (www.fsbusitalia.it) ... 800 37 37 60 CAP (www.capautolinee.it) ......... 055 21 46 37 Vaibus (www.vaibus.com) ....... 058 35 87 897 TRAIN Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.com) ......... 89 20 21 Italo (www.italotreno.it/en) ............... 06 07 08 TAXI Radio Taxi Firenze .............................. 055 42 42

Lorenzo de’ Medici

RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA

LIVE SPORTS

Lorenzo de’ Medici Restaurant and Pizzeria is an elegant yet reasonably priced spot situated right in the heart of Florence, just a few steps away from the Medici Chapel, the church of Santa Maria Novella and San Lorenzo market, and no more than 200m from the Fortezza da Basso. It is the ideal restaurant to try traditional Florentine dishes or pizza cooked in the wood-ﬁred oven. The perfect restaurant for tourist groups, business dinners, meetings or private dining.

GET 20% OFF WITH YOUR STUDENT DISCOUNT CARD Via del Giglio, 49 // 055 21 29 32 www.lorenzodemediciristorante.com

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

CITY INFO OPENING TIMES BAPTISTRY OF SAN GIOVANNI* Piazza San Giovanni 055 23 02 885 Mon–Sat: 11:15 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sun and 1st Sat of every month: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. July 4– Sept 28: Thurs–Sat: 11:15 a.m.–11 p.m. Easter Week (Thurs, Fri, Sat before Easter & Easter Mon), April 25 & May 1: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sunday, Sept 8, Dec 24 & 25. BOBOLI GARDENS* 055 23 88 786 March Daily: 8:15 a.m.–5:30 p.m. (6:30 p.m. with daylight saving) April–May & Sept–Oct Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. (5:30 p.m. with standard time) June–Aug Daily: 8:15 a.m.–7:30 p.m. Nov–Feb Daily: 8:15 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Closed 1st and last Mon of each month; Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. CATHEDRAL CUPOLA* Piazza del Duomo 055 23 02 885 Mon–Fri: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sat: 8:30 a.m.–5:40 p.m. Closed Sun; Jan 1; Jan 6; Thurs–Fri– Sat before Easter; Easter; June 24; Aug 15; Sept 8; Nov 1; Dec 8; Mon & Tues of the first week of Advent; Dec 25 & 26. Note: 463 stairs by foot only, no lift. GIOTTO’S BELL TOWER* Piazza del Duomo 055 23 02 885 Daily: 8:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; January 6: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. Closed Jan 1, Easter, Sept 8 & Dec 25. Note: 414 stairs by foot only, no lift VASARI CORRIDOR Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 055 29 48 83 Available to private groups only: contact Uffizi Gallery for information. MUSEUMS ACCADEMIA GALLERY* Via Ricasoli, 58/60 055 23 88 612 Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. Closed Mon, Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. PALAZZO MEDICI-RICCARDI*

Via Cavour, 3 055 27 60 340 Mon–Tues & Thurs–Sun: 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Closed Wed. BARGELLO NATIONAL MUSEUM* Via del Proconsolo, 4 055 23 88 606 Daily: 8:15 a.m.–1.50 p.m. Closed 1st, 3rd & 5th Sun and 2nd & 4th Mon of each month; Jan 1 & Dec 25. CATHEDRAL MUSEUM (Museo dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore)* Piazza del Duomo, 9 055 23 02 885 Mon–Sat: 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; Sun: 9 a.m.–1:45 p.m. Closed Jan 1, Easter, Sept 8 & Dec 25. DANTE HOUSE MUSEUM * Via Santa Margherita, 1 055 21 94 16 April–Sept Daily: 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Oct–March Tues–Sun: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed Mon (Oct 1–March 31), Dec 24 & 25. GALILEO MUSEUM * Piazza dei Giudici, 1 055 26 53 11 Mon & Wed–Sun: 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m.; Tues: 9:30 a.m.–1 p.m. Closed Jan 1 & Dec 25. JEWISH MUSEUM * Via Farini, 6 055 23 46 654 June–Sept: Mon–Thurs & Sun: 10 a.m.–6:30 p.m.; Fri: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Oct–May: Mon–Thurs & Sun: 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m.; Fri: 10 a.m.–3 p.m. Closed Sat, Jan 1, Dec 25 & Jewish holidays. MICHELANGELO’S HOUSE (Casa Buonarroti)* Via Ghibellina, 70 055 24 17 52 Mon & Wed–Sun: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed Tues, Jan 1, Easter & Dec 25. NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM* Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 9b 055 23 57 720 / 23 575 Tues–Fri: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m. Sat–Mon: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m.

Closed Jan 1 & Dec 25. PALAZZO DAVANZATI * Via Porta Rossa, 13 055 23 88 610 Daily: 8:15–1:30 p.m. Closed 2nd & 4th Sun, and 1st, 3rd & 5th Mon of the month; Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. PALAZZO PITTI* Piazza Pitti, 1 Palatine Gallery 055 23 88 614 Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. Royal Apartments closed every year during Jan for maintenance. Closed Mon, Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. COSTUME GALLERY 055 23 88 801 / 23 88 713 March Daily: 8:15 a.m.–5:30 p.m. (6:30 p.m. with daylight saving) April–May & Sept–Oct Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. (5:30 p.m. with standard time) June–Aug Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. Nov–Feb Daily: 8:15 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Closed 1st and last Mon of each month; Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. GALLERY OF MODERN ART 055 2388601 Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. Closed Mon, Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. SILVERWARE MUSEUM (Museo degli Argenti) Piazza Pitti, 1 055 2388709 March Daily: 8:15 a.m.–5:30 p.m. (6:30 p.m. with daylight saving) April–May & Sept–Oct Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. (5:30 p.m. with standard time) June–Aug Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. Nov–Feb Daily: 8:15 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Closed 1st and last Mon of each month; Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. PORCELAIN MUSEUM 055 2388709 March Daily: 8:15 a.m.–5:15 p.m. (6:15 p.m. with daylight saving) April–May & Sept–Oct Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:15 p.m. (5:15 p.m. with standard time) June–Aug Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:15 p.m. Nov–Feb Daily: 8:15 a.m.–4:15 p.m. Closed 1st and last Mon of each month; Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25.

Sixty museums in 72 hours with the Firenze Card Become a Friend of the Uffizi For €40 for youth under 25, €60 for an adult and €100 for a family (two adults and two children), the card offers a calendar year’s worth of free privileged entrance to the following museums: Uffizi Gallery Accademia Gallery The Pitti Palace The Palatine Gallery & Royal Apartments The Gallery of Modern Art The Costume Gallery The Medici Treasury The Porcelain Museum The Boboli Gardens The Bardini Gardens Bargello National Museum Museum of the Medici Chapels Museum of Palazzo Davanzati Museum of San Marco Garden of the Medici Villa of Castello Medici Villa of Petraia Medici Villa of Poggio a Caiano Medici Villa of Cerreto Guidi & Historical Hunting and Territorial Museum Cenacolo of Ognissanti Cenacolo of Andrea del Sarto Cenacolo of Fuligno Cenacolo of Sant’Apollonia Cloister of the Scalzo www.amicidegliuffizi.it

The Firenze Card is your one-stop pass to the museums, churches and gardens of Florence. For €72 it offers: • 72 hours of free access to 60 of Florence’s most popular and important museums, churches and gardens, including current exhibitions, permanent collections and museum activities; • Free use of public transport within Florence; • Immediate access to busy museums – skip long queues and pre-booking; • Your choice of start date: the clock doesn’t start ticking until you enter your first museum; • Dedicated smartphone application to help find the museums, access free wi-fi and give you updated information on exhibits and events; • Though the card can only be used once in each museum by one person, it also allows free entrance for EU citizens under 18 who are members of the same family unit of the cardholder. See the website for full details: www.firenzecard.it

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

CITY BEAT

Power Yoga Goes Beyond Yoga

Jazz, Blues and Rock & Roll

Live Music at NOF Club

The NOF club will be the home of live music with special weekly events like Monday jazz nights. Tuesday nights are going to be dedicated to improvisational theatre and cabaret, whilst one Wednesday a month will host international guests. Thanks to owner Filippo Zanasi and his barmaid Camilla who have renovated the NOF club for the upcoming 2014-2015 season, the bar will be hosting bigger and better artists almost every night of the week. Bands

of upmost quality will be playing at the club, covering an array of musical genres from jazz to indie, blues to rock and roll. Admission is free and the club is situated on the southern side of the Arno which can be reached by crossing the Ponte alla Carraia.

Power Yoga is a unique “style” of yoga which has faster rhythm than in the original activity. Silvana Alfonso, a native Italian, and Gabriela Estrada moved to Florence from Honolulu Hawaii to bring this new, dynamic activity to Italy. The all-inclusive classes cater for beginners through to advanced students, enabling everyone to enjoy the physical and psychological benefits of the activity. The studio offers six daily classes as well as weekend sessions. H’OM

Located in S. Spirito in the Oltrarno 345 693 6081 www.florencepetsitting.com

For one special evening, the Beer House Club will host one of the most prestigious brewers in Tuscany: the Olmaia craft brewery. A Led Zeppelin cover band will be playing at the event, while pizza, sandwiches, and other snacks will be available. The bar offers ten different types of beer on draft and is located at Corso dei Tintori 34, just a few steps away from Piazza Santa Croce.

NOF Club Borgo San Frediano, 17/r Mon. to Sat.: 8 p.m. - 3 a.m. www.facebook.com/NofGallery

Via Della Chiesa, 36/r 345 173 70 97 info@europapoweryoga.com www.europapoweryoga.com

Pet Sitting in Florence Dedicated to the personalized care of four-legged family members, Florence Pet Sitting offers doggie daycare and boarding, and national and international pet transport. We welcome all types of animals, including special needs pets, and are open year-round, including holidays. Discount available for monthly daycare package or multiple pets from the same home.

Lounge is a new event arriving at Europa Power Yoga, bringing the Santo Spirito community together in a relaxed environment which offers great music and an aperitivo. The session will take place every other Saturday on Via Della Chiesa, with free admission and open doors from 7 p.m. to midnight. Another addition to the Power Yoga program is the monthly art show curated by Marco Botti which will take place on the first Friday of every month.

BHC Hosts Artisan Brewers

Services include: • Daycare or overnights at our facilities or walks and check-ins from your location; • Two long walks per day and frequent outings; • Updates and photos of your pets during their stay; • Secured garden for urgent bathroom needs; • No cages; pets are free to roam and sleep where they like; • 24-hour companionship; • Bathing and nail-clip offered.

Art Apartments in Florence A way to enjoy Florence that implies just one, simple thing: beauty. There is no better way to experience a city that is a piece of art itself than staying in an apartment with pieces of art that bring something that the old city lacks: top quality contemporary art that can even be purchased, if desired. Florence Art Apartments offers visitors a novel experience of the city’s famed artistic heritage. It not only rents a range of high-end apartments tailored to the luxury market but the residences themselves are hung with valuable works of contemporary art, which are available for purchase by clients.

NEW GYM NEAR SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

THE ARTISAN ICE-CREAM SHOP

Brand new gym in the heart of Florence is now open. • Fully outfitted with the latest cardio & strength equipment from Technogym • Offering a wide array of classes ranging from Zumba to Pilates, every week • All-inclusive memberships with no sign-up fees • Special pricing for students • Friendly English-speaking staff • Free wi-fi

In 1938, the idea for a shop was born based on the same question it bears as its name: Perché no! ‘why not?’. Ugo Ravaioli, founder and owner of the icecream shop for decades found an ideal location on Via de’ Tavolini to start the ‘sweet business.’ Ever since, Perché no! has been one of Florence’s most famous spots for refreshment. It is an authentic venue for ice-cream lovers famous for its ‘semifreddi.’ Today, the shop is run by Mrs. Paola and her daughters who rediscovered original recipes and create unique flavors while paying attention to the quality of ingredients.

Mon. to Fri.: 8 a.m.-10 p.m, Saturday: 10 a.m.-6 p.m, Sunday: 10 a.m.-1 p.m. Via dei Fossi, 56/r 055 23 96 497

Via dei Tavolini, 19/r 055 23 98 969 www.percheno.firenze.it

In keeping with the company’s philosophy, the proceeds of the artwork go directly back to the artist, thereby continuing the patron-client relationships that sustained Florence’s medieval and Renaissance workshops for centuries, yielding many of the city’s most famous works of art. The theme of art is not merely an internal consideration, however; the apartments are situated in key locations around the city and feature views of the Duomo, arguably the city’s most remarkable feat of architecture. For more information, drop into Florence Art Apartments’ centrally located office on Via Ricasoli, 34 or call 340 51 24 148.

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

LIFESTYLE

The “Supermodels” of the Past Where the Modern World Meets Artisan Tradition

LUCY DAVID

The roots of modern fashion in the portraits at the Uffizi CHIARA BECCHETTI Through Renaissance portraits of women it is possible to understand how modern fashion began. It was during this period in fact that for the first time in art history, women became the object of a somewhat obsessive attention to the details of beauty. Artists began focusing intently on women’s faces, hair, and clothes, and thus female portraiture took on another expressive element, beyond representing personality and social status. Simonetta Cattaneo can be considered the first “supermodel” in history, as Botticelli used her as a muse and inspiration for his paintings. Born in Genoa, she married Mario Vespucci, cousin of Amerigo Vespucci who baptized America. In 1475 she was nominated “Queen of Beauty” at the popular chivalrous tournament known as

La Giostra, which that year was won by Giuliano de’ Medici, brother of Lorenzo the Magnificent. Giuliano and Simonetta embarked on a love story which came to a tragic end in 1476. She was only 22 when she died of tuberculosis. Giuliano died a few years later in the Pazzi Conspiracy. Simonetta’s face is believed to appear in The Birth of Venus and the Madonna of the Magnificat at the Uffizi. Hers and Giuliano’s are believed to be the faces in Botticelli’s Primavera, or Allegory of Spring. Another model was Lucrezia Panciatichi. In Bronzino’s portrait she appears with a “complicated” hairstyle, blue eyes, and a melancholic expression; she wears a sumptuous red velvet dress and a corset trimmed with a belt made of precious stones; one of her two necklaces bears the inscription Amour dure sans fin, an allusion to the love of God, whilst her right hand holds a prayer book; and the sleeves of the dress are big and detachable, as it was common in that

period. Lastly, Eleonora da Toledo, Cosimo’s loving – and loving was exception at the time – wife, in Bronzino’s portrait with her son Giovanni. Born in Spain, Eleonora brings to the world of fashion and beauty a stronger mediterranean approach. Set against a dark blue background, with a face as cold as marble, the Duchess of Florence appears confident of the power of her beauty. The fashion trends of 16th-century Spain become evident in both her hairstyle, pulled delicately into a net, and the fabrics used to make her complex dress. Further, Arabic patterns decorate her close-fitting corset while the repetition of pomegranate motifs symbolize the Duchess’s fertility. Gold cords and pure pearls, while demonstrating the prestige of the Medici family, also cover her shoulders. For more information on Chiara visit: toptoursintuscany.com

Stepping into Paolo Fattori’s elegant leather workshop is a surprising experience: light and airy with clean lines and a minimalist feel, it’s where the modern world meets ancient Florentine tradition. Only the lingering scent of leather and the sight of Paolo busily working at an island bench indicates that this is, in fact, a bottega producing finely crafted leather bags, belts and various articles from the hands of the man himself. Rolls of jewel-colored leather line the walls, numbered and certified by Tuscan company Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale, which practises an artisan method of vegetable-dyed leather that has its origins

in the Renaissance. Although Paolo has only been working in leather full-time for six years, he’s already made a name for himself both in Florence and as far afield as Japan. However, manual dexterity runs in Paolo’s veins; his father and grandfather worked in wood and iron, and he credits them with his ability. “In Tuscany, manual skill is widespread and forms part of the genetic heritage of the region,” he says. Indeed, Paolo’s workshop is named after the two principal instruments of the trade: the furò and punteruolo. Drop by and watch the craftsman at work on Via del Giglio, 29/r, tucked in between San Lorenzo and SMN train station.

A Bit of Venice Near Santa Croce Murano glass and carnevale mask enthusiasts need not travel to Venice for quality souvenir items. Alvise Giustinian, located at Corso dei Tintori, 19 (near Santa Croce) is a gift and art store specializing in Murano-made items and that guarantees the sale of purely Murano products, with no importation. Products include masks, jewelry, and glass objects for the home. Jewelry has proven to be the shop’s most popular item, due to the ease of transport and availability of products starting at merely €5, according to owner Paola. Alvise Giustinian’s spacious space

allows for an abundant selection of gifts and a comfortable shopping experience. Paola’s customers tell her that prices in this beautiful, museum-like shop are lower than those in Venice. If you’re in Florence but looking for classic Venetian crafts such as paper-mache masks and handmade glass, then Alvise Giustinian is a store worth a visit.

Alvise Giustinian Corso Tintori, 19/r 055 246 62 95 www.alvisegiustian.com

Sandwiches, wine & glee

4€

Lunch Sandwich + drink

Borgo degli Albizi, 20/r

• Power Yoga for beginners to advanced students offered daily. • Power Yoga trained instructors • All classes only 60 mins • Fun music and atmosphere • Community philosophy which encourages and promotes health and wellness for everyone! • Located in the beautiful santo spirito area • Check out our studio and web site!

Via Della Chiesa, 36/r 345 173 70 97 www.europapoweryoga.com

HAIRDRESSER AND BEAUTY SERVICES Located near Santa Croce, Alchimia offers a variety of women’s hair and beauty services using the finest brands. Services include: • • • • • • • • • •

Haircuts Long-length extensions Keratin reconstruction Paul Mitchell product retailer ESSIE Gel reconstruction and permanent enamel Waxing Massage (healing and relaxation) Custom make-up Cut, color and highlight Acrylic nail care

DISCOVER RIVA LOFTS’ “SECRET KITCHEN” Take the hassle out of hosting with EAST. We cater for private and corporate events at both award-winning Riva Lofts on the Arno and from the comfort of your own home, providing vibrant multicultural flavors with innovation and care. Enjoy fireside, poolside or garden dining options at Riva Lofts and such favourite dishes as basil panna cotta with prosciutto, grilled figs and rocket salad; and crispy Chinese pork belly served with rice and a warm caramel-chili sauce.

9 a.m.– 7.30 p.m. Via dell’Agnolo, 47–49–51/r 055 24 16 04 www.alchimia-hairdesign.com

Contact Anna Bowcock: east@rivalofts.com Facebook: EastAtRivaLoftsFirenze

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

FASHION

Reinventing Suitcases

The Art of Dressing Italian

Identifying who is Italian and who is not as you walk the streets of Florence is easy. Why? By looking at what they wear. But what is it that sets casually chic Italians apart from the rest of us? In search of the answer to this question, I visited a few of the top fashion houses in Italy to get opinions on the differences between Italian and American fashion habits. Here is a list of what it takes according to local experts, to dress like a true Italian. Wear neutrals. The first thing every single fashion expert I talked pointed out was color scheme. Italians can always be spotted wearing neutrals, black being their basic go-to. This means forgoing your bright, floral dresses and opting for beige, white, or black pieces. If you want to add a hint of color, choose on accent piece, such as a red bag or colorful pair of jeans. Exchange comfort for class. Ameri-

cans are known for a sporty and casual style, often choosing outfits based first on comfort. Italians, on the other hand, select outfits to accentuate their bodies, wearing tighter, more form-fitting pieces. For you men out there, this means switching those t-shirts and cargo shorts for a good pair of jeans, a tailored shirt, and a suit jacket. Women should consider getting rid of those loose cotton tank tops, dresses, and jean shorts and choosing instead an elegant skirt, a form-fitting top, and a pair of heels. And the number one piece of advice? Toss out those flipflops. For your basics, invest in luxury pieces. This doesn’t mean purchasing an entirely new designer wardrobe in order to achieve that coveted Italian style. Instead focus on investing in the basics. The top two recommended pieces to splurge on are shoes and

The first company to introduce the fairs, and four generations later it American novelty of rigid suitcases supplies top leather good and travel to the Italian market, Valigeria Gaz- accessories worldwide. zarrini is a historic shop in Florence, Today the story continues in the vein one that has marked the commercial of its Florentine artisan roots, with a history of the city. dual focus on quality Italian goods The combination of innovation and such as Labiena 1856 and Orobianco, determination that has characterized and emerging trends in international the company since its beginnings in brands, including Longchamp, Tumi 1911, when founder Giuseppe Gaz- and Samsonite. zarrini bought the leather manufacValigeria Gazzarrini turing firm at which he worked to begin specializing in suitcases, is the Open daily: 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. reason for its swift rise to success. By Via Porta Rossa, 71-73/r the 1920s Gazzarrini was already rec055 21 27 47 info@valigeriagazzarrini.com ognized for the quality of its products www.valigeriagazzarrini.com at national and international trade

bags. Take a stroll down Via Tornabuoni to find stores that carry amazing leather pieces to fill your closet- and perhaps empty your bank account. Mix casual with formal. Americans are often seen in one of two extremes, either all-out formal with a suit and tie, or utterly bumming-out in jeans and t-shirt. Italians on the other hand, are known to mix these casual and formal to give their style a unique flair. Try starting off with a more casual outfit, then mixing in a few formal pieces, such as adding a blazer to your regular shirt and jeans. Your look will instantly become casually chic. If blending in with the locals instead of sticking out yet another tourist is your goal, following these tips should help. Even so, remember that a large camera dangling around your neck and giant map in your hand may still give your true identity away.

Shoe Styles at Micam The Micam festival is celebrating styl- as a modern version of the ‘80s jelly ish shoes this month with new im- sandals. Low heels, velcro, fringes portant brands such as Christian La- and tassels also featured in many of croix, Colmar, Missoni and Porsche the shoes. Design making their first appear- This year’s Micam was presented in a ances at this year’s fair. The festival new, more accessible format with the showcased footwear trends in the products divided into themed categoupcoming spring and summer collec- ries, making it easier for the buyer to tions of 2015. Women’s shoes took on navigate through various styles. The a surprisingly sporty and functional festival saw a total of 1,557 exhibitors, look, as the 1970s platform found of which 617 were international, in its way back on to the fashion scene, over 67,500 square meters of exhibicombined with athletic socks, as well tion space.

THE SUNSET FROM FIESOLE TO FLORENCE CENTER

THE BAR YOUR MOM WARNED YOU ABOUT

A marvellous itinerary by MTB from Fiesole to Florence center. Ideal for those who wish to terminate the day away from the bustle of the city, in a clean and healthy environment, where the elevation mitigates the summer heat. Through a unique rural landscape, an intense but easy path in that time of the day when the colors of nature turn magic, transforming the countryside around Fiesole and Florence into an unparalleled landscape.

The newly reopened Jack is ready to rock ‘n’ roll! Come by for lunch or dinner and try the revamped menu featuring traditional Italian food and American staples. Enjoy live music, DJ sets and the costume parties that Jack has become famous for, as well as two HD screens showcasing special sporting events. If all that Italian espresso just isn’t hitting the mark, drop by One-Eyed Jack’s to enjoy American coffee with a free refill between 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. Free wifi is also available.

San Carlo bar offers continental and American breakfast and brunch, simple but refined lunch, a large aperitivo buffet, and an extensive wine and cocktail list. Music and art create a warm, lively atmosphere while friendly staff members are always ready to cater to any requests. San Carlo is a bar suited to any time of day: great for a quick coffee or snack, a leisurely aperitivo or meal, or simply an after-dinner drink with friends.

Daily from 5 p.m. € 35 each, 2 to 3 participants € 30 each, 4 to 8 participants

Daily from 11 a.m. – 2 a.m.

TUNA STEAK

345 335 09 26 info@fiesolebike.it www.fiesolebike.it

Piazza Nazario Sauro, 2/r 055 09 44 561 www.thejackpub.com

MEDITERRANEAN SEAFOOD SPECIALTIES

Specialty:

Borgo Ognissanti, 32-34/r 055 21 68 79 info@sancarlofirenze.it www.sancarlofirenze.it

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

FASHION

Milan Fashion Week to Arrive on September 17

Vogue Italia’s Fashion Night Out The annual Vogue “Fashion Night Out” is back, this year with two events in Rome on September 11 and Milan on September 16. More than just a chance to buy limited edition fashion items, the VFNO is a charity event which will donate this year’s funds to local training centers helping troubled youths to find work. Last year, the money raised went towards the restoration of an athletic field and other facilities in the Quarto Oggiaro area. Vogue Italia Editor-in-Chief Franca Sozzani said the event was “an occasion to support concrete projects benefiting the host cities and communities.” This year, the VFNO expects another

The Milan Fashion Week for women coming Spring/Summer season, as is due to take place between Septem- well as a series of after-parties and ber 17 and 22. Organized by Camera other events. Nazionale della Moda Italiana, the Milan is renowned for being the capbiannual event is one of the most im- ital of fashion and people flock in portant dates in the fashion calendar. numbers each year to see what the The busy program includes runway Fashion Week will present. shows in which Italian designers For details visit present their collections for the upwww.cameramoda.it/en

high attendance rate, following last year’s grand total of 250,000 guests. Councillor for Labor, Economic Development, University and Research Cristina Tajani said that the 2014 event will take place in two cities to ensure that the Italian fashion industry is more united than ever. Shoppers who use a Visa Card to make purchases at the event will be rewarded with a free subscription to Vogue Italia. There will also be scouts on the night searching for photographers whose work will be used in an exhibition dedicated to VFNO. Other cities hosting Vogue’s major event include Berlin, Madrid, London, Düsseldorf, Tokyo, and Osaka.

Piccione Clinches Title of Vogue Competition Cavalli Sells Off? The Russian investment bank VTB Capital is negotiating the acquisition of 60% of the Cavalli group, according to the Bloomberg agency and the Russian newspaper Vedomosti. VTB is reportedly available to put up €500 million per share. The fashion house founded by Florentine designer Roberto Cavalli is valued at approximately $830 million. Financial sources cited by Bloomberg confirm talks in recent weeks between the Russians and Cavalli, even though a final decision seems premature. Talks are likely to be taken up again after the summer holidays. The Kremlin controls 60% of the VTB Group, which is one of the groups affected by the U.S. and E.U. sanctions against Russia as a result of

the Ukraine crisis. These penalties prevent financial institutions from raising capital in the international market, yet that threat evidently has not slowed down expansion plans of the Moscow-based giant, whose president, Andrey Kostin, recently joined the board of directors of Pirelli, the Italy-based multi-national tire making company. Cavalli has been considering selling off company stakes since 2009, with two previous negotiations that ended in stalemate. If the Russian negotiations go ahead, Cavalli will be the latest in a series of Italian fashion brands to be taken over by foreign entities, including the recent cases of Krizia, Versace, Fendi, Gucci, and Valentino, among others.

A TREASURE TROVE OF CLASSIC PIECES Nestled in Santo Spirito, Celeste Vintage stands out as a vintage store focused upon elegant and sought-after objects. It offers a wide range of clothing that spans the beginning of the twentieth century through to the 1980s, with particular attention on the ‘30s, ‘40s, ‘50s and ‘60s. Treasures to be found include bijoux jewellery, crocodile-skin gloves and handbags, tortoiseshell items, clutch bags, fans, coats, hats and suitcases, alongside classic pieces by famous designers such as Gucci, Dior, Ferragamo, Fendi, Valentino and Cristian Lacroix.

Piazza San Felice, 1/r 055 285 540 vintageceleste@hotmail.com www.celestevintage.it

Sicilian designer Salvatore Piccione has been announced this year’s winner of Vogue’s “Who Is On Next?” competition. Piccione impressed judges with his colorful collection this summer, although Vogue Italia Editor-in-Chief Franca Sozzani admitted, “It was a difficult decision, as the quality of competitors has increased.” The annual competition aims to seek out fresh talent from across the world. Israeli designer Daizy Shely received a special mention from the jury this year. Other finalists include Marianna Cimini and jewelry designer Caterina Zangradi. Suzy Menkes, the judge who made the definitive vote this year, said, “I have been an intermittent judge of this scouting of creatives – who do not have to be Italian in this multicultural world, but who must be either based in Italy or manufacture their

LIFESTYLE SALON & SPA Via de' Neri 53-55/r 055 23 98 553 CONCEPT SALON - without appointment Via de' Neri 49/r 055 28 28 41 CONCEPT SALON Via dei Benci 5/r 055 21 92 27

www.salonecontrasto.it

clothes and accessories in the country. That is not such a challenge, since Italy is the European cornerstone of high fashion construction.’’ This year’s winner studied Fashion Design at the Istituto Europeo di De-

sign in Rome, graduating in 2008. A young talent, Piccione has already worked with top names such as Mary Katrantzou and was involved in some of her projects such as Swarovski, Topshop, and Pablo Bronstein.

Restaurant and disco-pub The meeting point of all Latin communities and foreign students

Soccer passion, salsa, Spanish and Mexican food, and, most importantly, a true Latin atmosphere. These will be the ingredients for this summer at Salamanca, a restaurant that every night becomes a Latin Disco Pub after food has been consumed. A spot that has become the favorite of Italian and international students, that here all year long find the best opportunity to familiarize. And with a Latin touch, with a Southern authenticity, that in Florence you can find just here.

Tuesday: Latin Disco Wednesday: Live music with Mambo Kids Thursday: International Student Night Friday & Saturday: Latin Disco Bar

Via Ghibellina, 80/r â&#x20AC;˘ 055 23 45 452 www.salamanca.it

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

WORD & SOUND

A Review of Rachel Kushner’s The Flamethrowers LEE FOUST European literary fiction has long been associated with the cerebral, with philosophy, with what American critics call—sometimes with a hint of disdain—the novel of ideas. American fiction, on the other hand, although all-too-frequently allowing for the outpouring of maudlin socalled “beach reading” or sleazy softcore erotic romance, considers itself to be more emotionally charged, honest, and a straightforward account of events: an expression of the old Iowa Writer’s Workshop mantra, “show, don’t tell.” I would argue that a truly great novel does at least of little of both of these things: develops a theme, presents a political stance or philosophy through a narrative about characters with whom we are engaged either by liking, hating, or identifying with. Rachel Kushner’s recent novel The Flamethrowers, judging from its flirtation with Italy as a setting and background to its main narrative of a young woman on the New York City

art scene during the mid-1970s, seeks with its scope, form, and primary narrative to tap into each of these techniques of fiction. Sadly, the novel excels at neither technique and therefore mildly disappoints. The Flamethrowers begins, after a short, teasing scene from WWI, with the first person narrative of “Reno,” a motorcycle-riding westerner newly arrived in NYC from the city for which she is nick named to break into the art world. Only a page or two into her narrative, Reno is reminded of Pat Nixon’s image in magazines and thinks, “Now we’ll have Rosalynn Carter.” Ok, newly elected president, Jimmy Carter, I get it, the novel is set in 1976. Nicely done, I thought, well written. Ten pages later, however, a character has greased hair “Like it was 1956 not 1976.” It’s a small detail, I know, telegraphing information an astute reader has already garnered in a line so obviously expositional it’s phony as a three-dollar bill. Still, it grated. And this, sadly, was only the first of many such instances: lovely, detailed writing marred by ham-fisted exposi-

tion aimed, I suppose, at leaving no child behind. It’s difficult, I know, to write about young people’s naiveté when one is older, to capture innocence without making your character seem just dumb. The Flamethrowers takes the challenge and mostly fails. Even though it’s mostly a female bildungsroman, I never got much of a sense of change or improvement in the character’s development—and I yearned for it; I knew so much more than she did at every step that I wanted to slap her awake. Her “art” consisted of only a few randomly shot home movies, the kind of thing one rolls one’s eyes at in art school. The male artists depicted in the novel are similarly decadent— although apparently quite successful—but since no one in the narrative ever made any interesting art I felt no outrage, sensed no criticism of the art market: the characters might as well been taxi drivers or welders. Despite the many cool topics that attracted me to the novel—Italian futurism, the fascinating period of the mid-1970s, Italy’s radical grassroots revolution of that period, or the NYC art scene, a novel about a woman written by a woman—I struggled to find a theme in The Flamethrowers. Since it’s an American rather than a European novel, that’s not the worst flaw, but I kept thinking that with so many potentially political topics— women, war, industrialism, the Red Brigade—the novel might eventually say something about life, art, the twentieth century, women. The best I can do with a theme is this: artists are somehow like WWI’s flamethrower-toting soldiers—they are the most frightening among us, but also the easiest to kill in their cumbersome disguises. It’s hard to argue with that.

Florence Contemporary Sound Festival

The 7th edition of the contemporary music and visual arts festival Florence Contemporary Sound is due to arrive on September 11. South African artist William Kentridge, best known for his animated films from charcoal drawings, will open the show with a world premiere. Ciné concert Paper Music is one of the festival’s highlights aiming to combine various art forms including theater, opera, dance, music, sculpture and drawing. Central to this work is the relationship between picture and sound, as Kentridge described, “like a sound or a particular piece of music makes you see an image in a different way, and as an image or a movie or a frame from a movie makes you feel the music in a different way.” Paper Music is the product of a well-established partnership be-

tween Kentridge and fellow South African Peter Miller, who began working together in 1993. Kentridge will present 10 short films in an on stage performance accompanied by live music from Miller, pianist Vincenzo Pasquariello and vocalists Anna Masina and Joanna Dudley. The program of events also includes four more world premieres and three national exclusives by the Symphony of London, the MDI Ensemble, the Prometheus Quartet, the FLAME ensemble, Edison Studio, Microensemble and Real Time. Transforming the courtyard of the National Museum of Bargello into a work of art itself, the festival will be framed by curtains and projection screens made of sheets and decorated with drawings and animations around the stalls.

The Sigh Press The autumn journal of The Sigh Press, of English in Tuscany: “We’ve had a a quarterly online literary publication, great response so far and we are realis out on 12 September. Each issue has ly excited to see it grow.” Submissions a carefully selected mix of poetry and to the journal are free and can be fiction inspired by a theme, and fea- made at any time, with a restriction of tures one visual artist. The co-editors two submissions per person. and writers/artists themselves, Lyall For more information on Harris and Mundy Walsh, hope to The Sigh Press, please visit shine a light on the wealth of writers www.thesighpress.com.

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SUMMER EDITION 2014, NO. 8

EVENTS

Exhibitions

ART JEWELRY: THE TRADITION IN MODERNITY Until October 10 Ente Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze and Horne Museum, Via Bufalini, 6 055 53 84 001 www.entecarifirenze.it

Fairs & Markets

Sport

GIOVANNI COLACICCHI Figures of the rhythm and light in 12th century Florence. Until October 19 Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio, 2 055 20 06 6206 / 055 23 88 616 www.bardinipeyron.it RADICAL WOMANHOOD Pinault Collection Until September 7 Gucci Museum, Piazza Signoria,10 055 75 92 33 02 10 a.m.-8 p.m. www.guccimuseo.com

MICHELANGELO AND THE TWENTIETH CENTURY Until Octomber 20 Via Ghibellina, 70 055 241752 9 a.m. - 5 p.m., Closed on Tuesday www.casabuonarroti.it

FLAVIA ARLOTTA Woman and painter of the twentieth century Until September 9 Via Orsanmichele, 4 055 219642 / 0 55 2491123 Mon.: 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Weekdays visit by appointment www.aadfi.it/?p=6733 FROM EGYPT OF THE PHARAOHS TO THE JAPAN OF THE SAMURAI THROUGH THE ISLAMIC MIDDLE EAST Until September 9 Via Alfani, 78 055 210102 Mon. - Sat.: 8:15 a.m. - 2 p.m. Closed on Sundays, Holidays and June 24th www.opificiodellepietredure.it ISLAM. WEAPONS AND ARMOURS FROM THE FREDERICK STIBBERT Until September 11 Stibbert Museum, Via F. Stibbert, 26 055 47 55 20 Mon.-Wed.: 10 a.m.-2 p.m.; Fri.-Sun.: 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Thursday www.museostibbert.it JACOPO LIGOZZI “UNIVERSAL PAINTER” Until September 28 Pitti Palace, Palatine Gallery 055 23 88 616 / 055 29 48 83 Tues. to Sun.: 8:15 a.m.- 6:50 p.m. Closed on Monday

SACRED SPLENDOUR Until September 28 The Medici Treasury, Piazza Pitti, 1 055 29 48 83 Mon. to Sun.: 8:15 a.m.-6:30 p.m. Closed on the 1st and the last Monday of each month www.unannoadarte.it HEREROS PASTORES ANCESTRALES DE ANGOLA Until Spetember 29 Medici Riccardi Palace, Galleria delle Carrozze Via Camillo Cavour, 3 055 276 02 41 - 055 276 03 40 Thu. to Tue.: 9 a.m. - 7 p.m. SAINT JOHN THE BAPTIST’S CART: FROM PONTORMO TO CAPEZZUOLI Until September 30 Palazzo Vecchio 055 27 68 224 9a.m.-12 a.m.; Thursday: 9 a.m.-2 p.m. museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it A JOURNEY TO THE EAST. PHOTOGRAPHS FROM AFRICA TO CASA MARTELLI Until October 10 Museum of Casa Martelli 055 29 03 83 Thursday: 2 p.m. - 7 p.m. Fri. to Sun.: 2 p.m. - 5 p.m. Closed on the 2nd and 4th Sunday

ART AND POLITICS: THE ELECTRESS PALATINE AND THE FINAL SEASON OF MEDICI PATRONAGE IN SAN LORENZO Until November 2 Medici Chapels daily 8:15am-4:50pm Closed on the 2nd and 4th Sunday and 1st, 3rd and 5th Monday of each month http://uffizi.firenze.it

PITTI FRAGRANCES, 12TH EDITION September 12 - 14 From: 9 a.m. - 6 p.m. Stazione Leopolda 055 369 31 www.pittimmagine.com BREAD LITTLE FAIR - ORGANIC AND LOCAL HAND MADE PRODUCTS September 13 - 14 From: 9 a.m. - 8 p.m. Piazza Santissima Annunziata 055 697 747 LUNGOUNGIORNO AND FIERUCOLA September 14 From 5 p.m. - 12 a.m. SAM Space for Arts and Crafts, at Vecchio Conventino, via Giano della Bella 20/1 www.fondazioneartigianato.it EXPO RURALE TOSCANA 2014 Rural Culture Fair dedicated to farming & cultivation in Tuscany September 18 - 21 From: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. at Cascine Park free entrance www.exporurale.it FORTEZZA ANTIQUARIA Antiques Fair September 20 - 21 From: 9 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Fortezza da Basso 055 328 35 15 www.anva.it

THE PURE SIMPLE AND NATURAL IN ART IN FLORENCE BETWEEN THE SIXTEENTH AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURY Until November 2 Uffizi Gallery 055 294883 www.unannoadarte.it

PICASSO AND SPANISH MODERNITY Until 25 January, 2015 Palazzo Strozzi 055 264 5155 Mon-Friday 9am-1pm; 2pm-6pm www.palazzostrozzi.org

EQUILIBRIUM Until April 12, 2015 Ferragamo Museum Palazzo Spini Feroni Piazza Santa Trinita, 5r 055 336 04 56 / 055 356 24 17 Mon. to Sun.: 10 a.m. - 7:30 p.m. http://www.ferragamo.com/museo/it/ ita/mostre

CIOMPI MONTHLY ANTIQUE FAIR September 28 From: 9 a.m. - 6 p.m. Piazza dei Ciompi and surrounding streets 055 328 35 15 www.comune.fi.it

Folk Festivals

FESTA DELLA RIFICOLONA Festival of the Paper Lanterns September 7 at 8 p.m. At 8pm arrival of the “Pilgrims” with welcome of the Band of Impruneta in Piazza Santa Felicita. At 8.30pm: in Piazza Signoria start of the Paper Lanterns Parade. At 9.30pm: arrival of the parade in PIazza Santissima Annunziata and awarding of the best paper lantern; an acrobatic dance show follows Starting in Piazza Santa Felicita 055 2767607 www.comune.fi.it

BACCO ARTIGIANO CARRO MATTO September 27 From: 3:30 p.m. - 6 p.m. Piazzetta di Parte Guelfa

CORRI LA VITA The Race for Life A Walk or Run Marathon Benefiting Breast Cancer Research Sunday, September 28 at 9am info and registrations at www. corrilavita.it CLIMB THE SAN NICCOLÒ TOWER Until 30 September Daily 5pm-8pm (weather permitting) info@muse.comune.fi.it

CONCEPTIONS OF CHRISTIANITY AMONG THE NAZI PARTY LEADERSHIP A lecture by Prof. Richard Steigmann-Gall September 15 at 6 p.m. Kent State University Vicolo dei Cerchi, 1 055 265 8365 WHITE DINNER OF FLORENCE Special dinner all dressed in white at Piazzale Michelangelo. September 19 at 7:30 p.m. How to get there: Bus Ataf 12 / 13 348 459 15 62 produzione@ventilucenti.it www.estatefiorentina.it/it/1002/ programma.htm?eventid=238 EUROPEAN HERITAGE DAYS Free entry to State Museums September 20 - 21 www.beniculturali.it

Music

Meetings

A ROOF WITH A VIEW Until October 4 Location depends on each hotel; afternoon or night. From 6 p.m. until 12 a.m. (please check with the hotels involved) 055 276 14 18 / 055 2762419 055 290 832 /055 290 833

FLORENCE CONTEMPORARY SOUND FESTIVAL Bargello Museum (courtyard) September 11 - 21 Paper Music tickets €22 Symphony of London, the MDI Ensemble, the Prometheus Quartet, Edison studio tickets €15 Recital Longobardi - €12 For more info: 055 611 29 9 info@flamensemble.com

FEAST OF THE NATIVITY OF THE VIRGIN MARY September 8, starting at 10 a.m. Climb the Dome of the Cathedral for free operaduomo.firenze.it/en

ITALIAN OPERA & DUETS Everyday at 8:30 p.m. Duets start at 9:15 p.m. St. Mark’s Anglican Church info@concertoclassico.info www.concertoclassico.info/p/programme.html

EUROPEAN DAY OF JEWISH CULTURE Conferences, Lectures, Literary Prizes, and more September 14 Florence Synagogue and Museum 055 245 25 2 http://moked.it/jewishflorence

NEXTECH FESTIVAL September 11 - 13, starts at 7 p.m. Fortezza da Basso and other locations 055 287 347 www.nextechfestival.com

EXPLORE TUSCANY WITH YOUR CHOICE OF RENTAL VEHICLE

The staff at Knowleggi will help you choose the best vehicle to navigate through labyrinthine medieval streets or plan your independent tour through scenic Tuscany. Knowleggi’s selection includes the best among BMW, Mini, Ford, Lancia, Mazda and Fiat.

Via Melegnano, 1/r 373 77 10 559 (Francesca: English-speaking contact) 055 05 17 062 www.knowleggi.it info@knowleggi.it

The Cover Store

• All accessories for phones • Cables • Headphones • Memory Cards • Chargers • Covers

Via Ghibellina, 96/r

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

ENTERTAINMENT

ODEON FIRENZE

At the Movies

Piazza Strozzi, Firenze 055 214 068 Office: 055 295 051 www.odeonfirenze.com

Tickets: Regular: €7.50; Reduced: €6* *Every Wednesday; students from Mon. to Fri. and selected partnerships. Club Odeon Classic: €3

THE GIVER DIRECTOR: Phillip Noyce GENRE: Drama | Sci-Fi STARS: Brenton Thwaites, Jeff Bridges, Meryl Streep PLOT: In a seemingly perfect community, without war, pain, suffering, differences or choice, a young boy is chosen to learn from an elderly man about the true pain and pleasure of the “real” world.

UNDER THE SKIN DIRECTOR: Jonathan Glazer GENRE: Drama | Sci-Fi | Thriller STARS: Scarlett Johansson, Paul Brannigan PLOT: A mysterious woman seduces lonely men in the evening hours in Scotland. Events lead her to begin a process of self-discovery.

DATES/HOURS: Thursday, Sept. 18: 4:30 – 6:30 – 9 p.m. Friday, Sept. 19: 8:30 – 10:30 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 20: 4:30–6:30–8:30–10:30 p.m. Sunday, Sept. 21: 4:30 – 6:30 – 9 p.m.

DATES/HOURS: Thursday, Sept. 4: 4:30 – 6:30 – 9 p.m. Friday, Sept. 5: 5 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 6: 4:30 – 6:30 – 8:30 – 10:30 p.m. Sunday, Sept. 7: 4:30 – 6:30 – 9 p.m. Monday, Sept. 8: 4:30 – 6:30 – 9 p.m. Tuesday, Sept. 9: 4:30 – 6:30 p.m. Wednesday, Sept. 10: 4:30 – 6:30 – 9 p.m

GUIDO REVERDITO The 71st edition of the Venice Film Festival (August 27 to September 6) has officially opened the 2014-2015 film season. Among this year’s films, four stand out for their diverse subject matter, personality of their directors, and sure impact for those who love art films. Beginning with Mud, a drama by 35-year-old Jeff Nichols (best known for his Take Shelter) and in competition at Cannes 2012, in which Matthew McConaughey stars as a mysterious individual taking refuge on a small island along the Mississippi River, assisted two boys who come upon him, as he tries to reunite with the woman he loves. For those who like intense stories, The Fault of the Stars, based on John Green’s successful bestseller, is a blend of hospital melodrama and romantic comedy, free of excessive rhetoric while telling the story of a love between two adolescents united by terminal illness. Two additional titles have protagonist Scarlett Johans-

son in common: Under the Skin (presented last year in Venice), centers on an alien who comes to Earth and takes possession of the body of a beautiful girl, exploiting her attractiveness to ensnare and bring down men. The other, Lucy, will delight fans of Luc Besson (who returns to directing after several years devoted to production) with a story characterized equally by elements of science fiction and action movies, with Johansson in the role of a woman transformed by a fortuitous accident into a higher being able to exploit the infinite potential of the human brain. Lastly, two dramatic variations (not visible in original language) on the theme of revenge, Out of the Furnace and The Railway Man, are worth nothing; along with The Rover, featuring Roger Pattinson of The Twilight Series fame in a post-apocalyptic Australian outback, and The Expendables 3, returning with a stellar cast in this latest episode of the action-film-homage franchise launched by Sylvester Stallone a few years ago.

THE RAILWAY MAN DIRECTOR: Jonathan Teplitzky GENRE: Biography | Drama STARS: Colin Firth, Nicole Kidman, Stellan Skarsgård PLOT: A former British Army officer, who was tormented as a prisoner of war at a Japanese labor camp during World War II, discovers that the man responsible for much of his treatment is still alive and sets out to confront him.

THE FAULT IN OUR STARS DIRECTOR: Josh Boone GENRE: Drama | Romance STARS: Shailene Woodley, Ansel Elgort PLOT: Hazel and Gus are two teenagers who share an acerbic wit, a disdain for the conventional, and a love that sweeps them on a journey. Their relationship is all the more miraculous given that Hazel’s other constant companion is an oxygen tank, Gus jokes about his prosthetic leg. DATES/HOURS: Thursday, Sept. 11: 4:30 – 6:45 – 9:15 p.m. Friday, Sept. 12: 4.30 – 6.45 – 9.15 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 13: 4.30 – 6.45 – 9.15 p.m. Sunday, Sept. 14: 4.30 – 6.45 – 9.15 p.m. Monday, Sept. 15: 4.30 – 6.45 – 9.15 p.m Tuesday, Sept 16: 4.15 – 6.30 p.m. Wednesday, Sept. 17: 4.30 – 6.45 – 9.15 p.m.

DATES/HOURS: Monday, Sept. 22: 5:30 p.m. Tuesday, Sept. 23: 4:30 – 6:45 – 9 p.m. Wednesday, Sept. 24: 4:30 – 6:45 – 9 p.m.

LUCY DIRECTOR: Luc Besson GENRE: Action | Sci-Fi | Thriller STARS: Scarlett Johansson, Morgan Freeman, Choi Min-sik PLOT: A woman, accidentally caught in a dark deal, turns the tables on her captors and transforms into a merciless warrior evolved beyond human logic. DATES/HOURS: Thursday, Sept. 25: 4.45 – 6.45 – 9.00 p.m. Friday. Sept. 26: 4.45 - 6.45 – 8.45 – 10.30 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 27: 4.45-6.45 – 8.45 – 10.30 p.m. Sunday, Sept. 28: 4.45 – 6.45 – 9.00 p.m. Monday, Sept. 29: 4.45 – 6.45 p.m. Tuesday, Sept. 30: 4.30 – 6.30 p.m.

CENTRO LUCE • • • • • • • • •

ALL THAT YOU NEED FROM HOME

Adapters Converters Headphones Hair Straighteners Hair Dryers Boilers Kettles Coffee Machines Electricity Emergency Service

Borgo degli Albizi, 91/r 055 24 69 318 centroluce09@gmail.com

THE IRISH PUB IN SAN LORENZO The historic bar offers quality beer, fresh cocktails, sandwiches and snacks amidst a traditional Irish pub atmosphere. The pub also offers various promotions and contests with many exciting prizes. The genuine atmosphere together with the helpful and inviting staff make Dublin Pub an ideal place to spend fun nights in good company or enjoy a beer any time while listening to great background music.

Open daily from 5 p.m.

Via Faenza, 27 055 27 41 571 info@dublinpub.it www.dublinpub.it

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

SAN GIMIGNANO

Pinturicchio on Display

A GUIDE TO SELECT SITES OF SAN GIMIGNANO

Exhibition Inaugurates Series of Events GEORGIA JONES An exhibition dedicated to Umbrian painter Pinturicchio arrives at the Pinacoteca in San Gimignano’s Palazzo Comunale on September 6. The show aims to inaugurate a series of exhibitions which will take place annually, analyzing the works of significant artists that have enriched the UNESCO World Heritage site. Mayor Giacomo Bassi strongly supports the new project, which will help promote the city’s museums and move it closer to achieving the aspiring title of “a center of cultural reference,” both locally and internationally. The initiative will focus on a different master each year and explore masterpieces from their public collections. Filippino Lippi, another artist who left his mark in the medieval village, will be the focus of next year’s exhibition. The final season of Pinturicchio’s career will be showcased, including his last great altarpiece, Madonna in

Glory with Saints George and Benedict also asked him to decorate the suite of (1512). This was his last documented six rooms in the Vatican, creating the work and was painted for the Santa Borgia Apartments. Maria Assunta monastery, a few ki- He spent his final years in Siena, lometers from San Gimignano. Other where many of his works are held works on display include Virgin and in the Pinacoteca National Museum. Child with Saint John the Baptist, Holy The exhibition is sponsored by the Family and Saint John and The Nativ- Superintendence for the Historical, Artistic and Ethno-anthropological ity. Bernardino di Betto Betti came to be Heritage for the province of Siena. known by the nickname Pinturicchio because of his small stature and even Pinturicchio. used this name to sign some of his The Altarpiece of works. He is famous for his highly San Gimignano and decorative frescoes and for being one of the great masters of the 15th-centhe Siena Years tury Umbrian school, alongside PietPinacoteca, Palazzo Comunale, ro Perugino and the young Raphael. San Gimignano The Early Renaissance painter was Until January 6, 2015 born in Perugia, but he resided in Booking: 0577 286 300 Rome for much of his life on account Sept. 6 to Oct. 31, open every day: of commissioned work. He was em9 a.m. - 7:30 p.m. From Nov. 1 to Jan. 6, open every ployed by the Della Rovere family to day: 11 a.m. - 7:30 p.m. decorate the Semi-Gods Ceiling of the Tickets: € 7,50 (regular); € 6,50 Penitenziere Palace as well as a num(reduced) ber of chapels in the Basilica of Santa www.sangimignanomusei.it Maria del Popolo. Pope Alexander VI

Le Torri

MADE IN ITALY LEATHER The company Le Torri was born for collecting, producing and selling high quality artisanal leather goods exclusively made in Italy leather, something that today is not so easy at it may seem to find. The three shops are located in Via San Giovanni. Products include bags for women, business bags for men, belts, wallets, as well as other goods and can be purchased both online and in store.

Daily: 9.30 a.m. - 8.30 p.m. Via San Giovanni, 22-24 Via San Giovanni, 34 Via San Giovanni, 117 San Gimignano 0577 940 851 www.letorrionline.com

BAR GELATERIA COMBATTENTI

ROCCA DI MONTESTAFFOLI Climb the remains of an ancient fortress turret for stunning views of the area Free (outdoors)

Information Courtesy of the Pro Loco Association of San Gimignano – Tourist Information Office www.sangimignano.com

PIAZZA DELLA CISTERNA San Gimignano’s medieval water well gives its name to this piazza Free (outdoors)

PODESTA’S PALACE, TOWER AND ART COLLECTION Piazza Duomo, 2 0577 990 312 Entrance: €5; children between 6 and 17 €5; free entrance to children under 6; combined ticket good for all civic museums €7.50 Daily 11 a.m.- 5:30: after April 1: 9:30 a.m. -7 p.m.

ANCIENT CITY WALLS Walk along the 13th century walls with 15th century Medicean bastions Free (outdoors)

THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA (DUOMO) Piazza del Duomo 0577 940 152; prenotazioni@duomosangimignano. it Entrance: €4; Combined ticket with the Sacred Art Museum: €6 (Apr-Oct) Mon to Fri: 10 a.m-7 p.m.; Sat: 10 a.m - 5 p.m.; Sun/Holidays: 12:30 p.m. - 7 p.m. ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM - SANTA FINA HERBARIUM - MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERY Via Folgore, 1 0577 940 526; www.museodellatortura.it April 1: 9:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Entrance € 3.50; € 2.50 for children between 6 and 17; children under 6 free; combined ticket with all civic museums €7.50

ORNITHOLOGICAL MUSEUM Located inside the church of San Francesco on Via Quercecchio 0577 941 388 info@sangimignano.com After April 1: 11 a.m.-5:30p.m. Entrance €1.50 CHURCH OF SANT’AGOSTINO Near Porta St. Matteo on Via Cellolese Mon 4 p.m.– 6 p.m.; Tues-Sun 10a.m.-12p.m./3 p.m.-6 p.m. HOUSE OF ST. FINA Via del Castello FORMER PODESTA’S PALACE AND ROGNOSA TOWER Piazza del Duomo

MUSEO DELLA TORTURA E DELLA PENA DI MORTE, TORTURE AND DEATH PENALTY MUSEUM, Via San Giovanni, 82 & 125 0577-940526, 055-940151; Daily: 10 a.m. – 8 p.m. www.museodellatortura.it Info & Reservations: tortura@iol.it WINE MUSEUM 0577 941 267 Free admission 11:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m.

ENOTECA CORSI

THE BAR STARTED BY A WWI FIGHTER

TYPICAL TUSCAN PRODUCTS

Located just inside Porta San Giovanni, bar and gelateria Caffé Combattenti serves artisan-quality, homemade Tuscan ice-creams and products. The first gelateria established in town, since 1924 the Bar Combattenti offers saffron and lively wine-flavored gelatos next to traditionally prepared bruschetta, pizza, panini, and pasta, as well as Tuscan salami and pecorino cheeses. Also available are classic Tuscan treats such as ricciarelli and cantucci, grappa, extra virgin olive oil, and local truffle products, as well as gluten-free products.

With more than 600 wines including Brunello, Vernaccia, Bolgheri and Chianti, as well as extra virgin olive oil, flavored oil, balsamic vinegar and much more, Enoteca Corsi is an ideal stop for authentic Tuscan products. Enoteca Corsi offers traditional sweets such as panforte, ricciarelli, home-made Cantuccini biscuits and other delicacies such as marmalades, honey, sauces and Tartufi (or Italian truffles). It also has the only DOP saffron in Italy.

Located in V. San Giovanni, Cindarella offers shoes, jackets, socks, belts, bags, scarves, clothing and accessories all rigorously Made in Italy and selected for clients who wish to experience a unique shoppingexperience, as in a fairy tale...

Via San Giovanni (near the door of San Giovanni) San Gimignano 328 06 07 267

Via San Giovanni, 36 San Gimignano 334 397 4862

Via San Giovanni, 124 San Gimignano 0577 940 391 328 06 07 267 barcombattenti@libero.it

KEEP CALM & BUY SHOES “Cindarella is the living proof that a pair of shoes can change your life”

Daily: 9:30 a.m. - 8:30 p.m.

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

Tracing the History of San Gimignano

ALEX MARTELLO According to popular legend, two brothers, Muzio and Silvio, built up two castles close together while escaping Roman persecution in 63 B.C. The Castle of Silvia would eventually become San Gimignano. More tangible historic studies show that settlements have been in the area since prehistory and the Etruscan time. In 1501, friars at the convent of San Domenico unearthed an Etruscan tomb while digging in their garden. This was only one of many finds to demonstrate that the San Gimignano area was well populated during Etruscan times. After the fall of Rome, the area was isolated until the Lombards descended upon Italy around 560 A.D. A route from the land of the Franks to the Christian capital of Rome began to develop, later to be known as the Via Francigena. Hamlets that had sur-

vived the crisis, such as San Gimignano, prospered as a result of this road and the traffic of pilgrims it brought. Along the Tuscan hills, small churches sprang up with the growth of population. During the High and Late Middle Ages, the town was a way station for monks travelling to Rome and developed under the ownership of the Bishop of Volterra. It continued to grow around two main squares and eventually declared itself a free comune in 1199, governed by a Podestà (chief magistrate). By the 14th century, it had already 13,000 citizens, prospering from agricultural activity, such as the successful growth of saffron, despite conflicts between the town’s two rivaling families—the pro-emperor Ghibellines, and the pro-Pope Guelfs. It was during the 14th century that wealthy families built towers, to show off an economic might so consistent to afford the arduous

construction process. This affluence came crashing down when the population was devastated by the plague in 1348. Afterwards, San Gimignano lingered and decayed, eventually submitting political autonomy to the growing Florence. Towers fell, and no other architectural trend entered the town. After the plague of 1631, the population dwindled to a low of 3,000 inhabitants. In 1801, Francesco Fontani included San Gimignano in his book of places that had noteworthy architecture and, shortly after, renovations began to revive the city. Due to the past decline, the town’s medieval aspects remain intact, as if preserved in a time capsule but only 13 out of the original 72 towers remain. The historic center is full of 14th and 15th century art in their original setting, including beautiful frescos by Benozzo Gozzoli and Domenico Ghirlandaio.

SAN GIMIGNANO

Wine Tasting in a Painting Perched at the top of a hill facing the medieval town of San Gimignano, the Fattoria il Piano has a splendid view overlooking Tuscan trees, vineyards and olive groves. The converted farmhouses offer guests a comfortable stay with apartments and a panoramic swimming pool featuring sunbeds, umbrellas and a changing room. Surrounding fields, woods and stretches of agricultural can be explored on foot or mountain bikes which may be hired locally. A barbecue, utility room and washing machine are also available for use. The Fattoria il Piano’s renowned wine tasting tours begin with a stroll through the vineyards, family chapels and even the underground cellar, carved out of the earth by local workers in 1925. Accompanied with a selection of local foods, the tasting of local wines takes place on the veranda with a magnificent view of the San Gimignano towers.

Fattoria Il Piano Fattoria Il Piano Loc. Montauto 53037 San Gimignano (SI) Tel. & Fax.: 0577 940 551 Info Tasting & Tour: 320 631 46 55 Other Tel.: 0573 743 084 fattoriailpiano@gmail.com www.fattoriailpiano.it

Wine Tasting and Music Come Together

Musica da Vino is coming to an exciting end at Fattoria il Piano on September 14, with a double bass quartet to accompany the last wine-tasting session of the season. The event will open with its usual wine-tasting at 5 p.m, followed by the Quartetto Polianilich concert at 7pm and the evening buffet at 8 p.m. Music, wine and cuisine are the ingredients which have made the Musica da Vino program so successful in previ-

ous events. After a series of excellent reviews, San Gimignano’s Fattoria Il Piano is becoming known as the home of the wine tasting tour.

Musica Da vino Fattoria Il Piano Loc. Montauto 53037 San Gimignano (SI) Tel. & Fax.: 0577 940 551 Sunday, September 14 , 5pm

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

SAN GIMIGNANO

Explore the Gagliardi Contemporary Art Gallery GALLERIA GAGLIARDI Arte Contemporanea

SAN GIMIGNANO

The Galleria Gagliardi was established in 1991, in a 400-square-meter space once used as a garage and farm machinery store. Today, the Galleria bears absolutely no resemblance to the original building apart from a section of the floor made up of oak boards, covering a hole which once enabled repairs to the underside of cars and machinery in the absence of a ramp. This work of art was created by the previous owner, Dino Conforti, and has been left in his memory. Since 1991, the exhibition area of the gallery has been extended and the gallery has now become a cultural

reference for the promotion and sale of contemporary art. Every work is chosen directly from the studios of artists who constantly experiment new solutions through their research, renewing their approach and skills. The Galleria exhibits ceramic, bronze and marble sculptures; conceptual, abstract and figurative paintings as well as works in steel, iron and wood by Italian and international artists.

Galleria Gagliardi Via San Giovanni, 57 San Gimignano galleria@galleriagagliaradi.com www.galleriagagliardi.com

A Journey Through Human Cruelty The Museo della Tortura displays over 100 tools designed to torture and kill. Some of these tools are extremely rare, dating to the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. They include the notorious Iron Maiden, the Guillotine, the Rack, the Chair of Torture, and the Chastity Belt. Also on display are lesser known, more sophisticated devices, such as the Heretic’s Fork, the Noisemaker’s Fife, the Spanish Spider, and flaying instruments. Rare, original philological reconstructions from the 19th and 20th centuries can also be observed.

Via San Giovanni, 82 & 125 San Gimignano Open daily: 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. 0577-940526, 055-940151 Tickets: Full € 10 Concessions: € 7 - € 5 Groups Ticket valid for free admission to the Museum of Death Penalty www.museodellatortura.it

The Art of Crafting Jewels Andrea Errera, goldsmith from the Milano School, approached his art more than 30 years ago. With his expert and skilled hands, he not only shapes gold but also combines it— with taste and skill—to various materials, such as precious woods and silks. Passion and discipline drive him to make any object a unique work of art. Errera is also a fine connoisseur and estimator of precious stones, which he uses to increase the value

of his work. Meeting the artist in his San Gimignano workshop, where he creates his exhibits, will leave a mark in your memory.

Bitta Gioielli di Andrea Errera Via Piandornella, 1A San Gimignano 0577 90 70 42 bitta@sangimignano.net

Gelato World Champion 2006/2007 - 2008/2009

SAN GIMIGNANO Piazza della Cisterna, 4 - 0577 942 244 - www.gelateriadondoli.com

FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

Porto di Mare – Eskimo Bridging cultures through live music at the club where all musicians meet

Born from the fusion of two former jazz venues, Eskimo and Jazz Club, Eskimo is a club-cafè that during the day is lived as a bookstore – the perfect place to find second-hand books – as well as a library where people meet to hang out in the afternoon. At night, the club becomes the stage where young Italian musician perform, often jamming together. The traditional Italian music that is played in this club ranges from songwriters to typical musical expressions from southern Italy such as the tarantella and others. Occasionally live jazz is played too. Eskimo is the perfect club where non-Italian musicians or non-Italian music aficionados can meet their Italian counterpart. It gives artists from all over the world the opportunity to take the stage in a familiar environment, where they can blend ideas and showcase their talents. This is indeed the place where Italian songwriters typically perform in a very relaxed and welcoming atmosphere, which is not always easy to

find in the foreign-dominated venues of Florence’s city center. Manager Sara Bonomo hopes that Eskimo will become “a theatrical workshop and a venue open to other types of arts, not just music – and focusing on bringing together a foreign audience, tourists, apericena [aperitivo dinner] and jazz.” In the small stage of this club some of the most famous Italian singers and musicians have appeared when looking for a more intimate approach with the public, far from the sports hall where they usually perform. This is why Eskimo is not just a bar but rather an ‘atmosphere’ perfect to chill out in, far from the formality of the city center’s nightlife.

Music Calendar Tuesday: Jazz Open Mic & Workshop Wednesday: Bog & Kate Live (Ft. Guests) Thursday: Rock Night Friday: Italian Southen Music Live Saturday: Francesco Cofone (Ft. Guests) Sunday: Folk, Rock & Blues

VINTAGE VINYL & NEW RELEASES

Data Records 93 is the perfect spot for music aficionados and those looking for a different take on current music or a nostalgic throwback to decades past. Born in 1977 as Contempo Records, it holds a vast collection of music, from new releases to rare pressings, and even includes recent releases on vinyl. Data Records 93’s eclectic and valuable collection attracts international DJs and it also ships all over the world.

Porto di Mare – Eskimo Via Pisana, 128 055 71 20 34 portodimareeskimo@gmail.com

Via de’ Neri, 15/r (near Santa Croce) 055 287 592 www.superecords.com

FREE T BfUroFmF7Epm IA

As with any port, Porto di Mare – Eskimo is synonymous with exchange, correspondence, and coming and going. Anyone is welcomed through the doors of this club, which also hosts a pizzeria and cafè. Its focus on live music and cultural exchange is one that the man who started the club, Francesco Cofone, holds close to his heart: “We never play anything recorded here,” he says with a smile. The method of bridging cultures at Porto di Mare is just getting out an instrument and beginning to play. “I’d be keen to talk to anyone who is interested in playing and sharing their

music with us,” Francesco says. rapper Jovanotti; percussionists WalThe club has also created its own big ter Paoli, ex-member of 1970s Italian band, the Eskimo Jazz Orchestra. An jazz, progressive rock and electronic all-star Tuscan jazz band born under group Area, and Piero Borri; clarinet the initiative of Francesco, it includes player Nico Gori; and guitarists Paolo some of the biggest and respected Conte, Ivano Fossati and Riccardo names on the jazz scene amongst its Galardini – to name just (a little more members. than) a few. These include trumpeter and band The band’s genre has evolved from conductor Fabio Morgera, who played classical music to a looser, improunder legendary American jazz cor- vised style: netist, composer and conductor Butch “Morris’s idea was to dissolve any sort Morris for 30 years in New York; Dario of ‘formation’ in the orchestra, and Cecchini, sax and leader of Italian for this reason, conducting isn’t unmarching band Funk Off; trumpet- dertaken in one style but acts more er Luca Marianini; trombone player like a tool for endless different styles,” Stefano Scalzi and guitarist Riccardo Fabio Morgera explains. “I conduct Onori, who both played alongside re- a group of musicians but they have nowned Italian singer-songwriter and complete freedom of the choice of notes; it’s an exchange between us. There’s no rigid music score to follow … In this way, it’s possible to create music together that has an organic quality.” The band performs live at the venue every month, and has already had many requests from specialized magazines to festival directors.

Enjoy Live Italian Music at Eskimo Club

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SUMMER EDITION 2014, NO. 8

SPORT & LEISURE

Corri la Vita Races Tips to Become a Fiorentina Fan on September 28

The annual marathon Corri la Vita, aimed to raise funds for breast cancer research and facilities specializing in therapy for cancer patients, is taking place again on September 28. Organized and managed by a committee of volunteers in collaboration with L.I.L.T. Florence (Italian Cancer Society), the marathon brings together charity, physical activity, culture, and social commitment, with thousands of participants each year. Athletes and nonathletes alike are welcome to participate in the 5km walk or the 12km competitive run that leaves from Piazza Duomo and takes attendants through some of the most scenic parts of Florence. While winding through the historic center and stopping along the way to visit gardens, churches, and palaces, volunteers will provide historical and artistic information about the city. While having fun and learning more about the city, walkers and runners can make an important social con-

How to get to the stadium: ON FOOT: Start on the north side of the Ponte Vecchio. Head east until the parallel street finally turns into Lungarno Pecori Giraldi. Turn left at Viale Giovanni Amendola, past the roundabout and then right onto Via Giuseppe Mazzino. This street takes you to Campo di Marte train station; cross the footbridge over the tracks and follow the road for one block down Viale Manfredo Fanti until you arrive at the stadium, which will be on your right hand side of the street. If you start near Piazza Repubblica, go down Via degli Speziali and head east on the same street which will turn into, in order, Via del Corso, Borgo degli Albizi, Via Pietrapiana and then Borgo la Croce. You will meet a tribution, as all of the proceeds go roundabout on Viale Giovanni Amendirectly to support breast cancer re- dola; go left onto Via Giuseppe Mazzsearch and to provide assistance to ino and onto the footbridge at Campo those in need. The race takes place di Marte station mentioned above. Continue with the same directions this year on Sunday, September 28. Enrollment forms are available for described above. download at www.corrilavita.it or at BY SHUTTLE BUS: Bus no. 52 runs participating stores such as Universo services from Piazza Stazione at Santa Maria Novella train station during Sport in Piazza del Duomo. the two hours preceding the game. The same shuttle runs return services Marathon Details up to an hour after the game finishes. The 5km walk leaves the Piazza Duomo at 9:30 a.m. The route passes through the the following cultural attractions: • Santa Verdiana Church • Vivarelli Colonna (Garden of the Palace) • Ceppo Oratorary • Cocchi-Serristori Palace • The Horne Museum • Guadagni Palace • Santa Monaca Church • Rospigliosi Palace Gardens • The Diocesan Museum of Santo Stefano

From Rifredi train station take bus no. 54. These buses are usually packed, so if you have a chance to take the earlier one I recommend it. How to get tickets: Stadium tickets typically cost anywhere from €20–70. They can be bought from online retailers or at authorized kiosks. The kiosk near the Piazza della Republica (right off Via Pellicceria) is a common dealer. The best place to sit in the stadium is on the sideline so that you can see all the action. Sitting behind a goal is not ideal because it is difficult to view the action on the opposite side of the field. However, these seats are usually the cheapest. Make sure that, under no circumstances, you sit in the visitor section. This section is physically barricaded from the rest of the stadium, and the visiting fans who find themselves outside of this designated section are separated from the rest of the crowd by a human shield of security guards. Despite these precautions, tensions can get heated, so prepare for some rowdy scenes. But do not fear; it’s all part of the authentic experience of a Florentine soccer match.

Fiorentina Home Games SERIE A Fiorentina vs Genoa Sept. 14 at 3 p.m. Fiorentina vs Sassuolo Sept. 24 at 8:45 p.m. EUROPA LEAGUE Fiorentina vs Guingamp Sept. 18 at 9:05 p.m. Keep up to date with Fiorentina at en.violachannel.tv Tickets can be bought online at it.violachannel.tv, at the stadium and at Fiorentina Point on Viale Manfredo Fanti 85/A.

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FLORENCE NEWS & EVENTS SEPTEMBER 2014, NO. 9

Visit Croatia with Bus2alps

TRAVEL

Included • Untouched sandy beaches, the magnificent wonder of the Krka Waterfalls—considered one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Europe—and whitewater rafting on the emerald-green Cetina River are just the beginning of a perfect coastal getaway. Croatia’s natural beauty makes it one of the best destinations for outdoor activities, relaxing on the beach, and admiring cultural wonders. Bus2alps offers a convenient way to reach the country and an itinerary that covers must-see locations and includes the most exciting activities. The tour focuses on the medieval port

town of Split, a city whose birth is associated with the construction of Emperor Diocletian’s Palace in the year 305 AD, located on Croatia’s pristine Dalmatian coast. The first day the trip includes an optional whitewater rafting trip on the Cetina River, an adventurous and scenic experience on one of Croatia’s great natural landmarks. Those who don’t join the rafting adventure can spend the day laying out on one of Split’s beaches, join a tour of the Split city center, visit the Diocletian Palace, rent a bike and ride up Marjan Hill, or take a day trip to local

surrounding towns, such as Omiš, or and breathtaking views—however, it the Krka Waterfalls. is also home to medieval buildings Omiš, located 25 kilometers from Split, and an exciting range of activities, another port town on the gorgeous such as windsurfing in the harbor. Dalmatian coast full of interesting In the evening Bus2alps organizes tourist attractions, can be accessed an optional trip to the island town of by the local bus and is where the Cet- Trogir, about 30 minutes from Split, to ina River meets the sea. An optional enjoy one of the many dining options pub crawl through Split’s nightlife is available. Trogir was founded by the also offered, ensuring travelers don’t ancient Greeks and today its city cenmiss out on the hottest spots. ter is an UNESCO World Heritage Site. The following day gives the group On the last day the group takes a trip a chance to join an optional private to Krka, where a few hours are dediisland cruise tour destined for the is- cated to swimming and exploring the land of Brač. Brač is known for its roll- magnificent waterfalls of the national ing hills, isolated bays, clear waters park before heading back to Florence.

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Round trip luxury coach transport (with A/C, DVD, & bathroom) Accommodation with your friends at top rated hostels Breakfast Transport and entrance to Krka Waterfalls National Park Exclusive Bus2alps discounts on various activities (rafting, island hopping, and more) The Croatia Bus2alps informational guide A Bus2alps trip leader