Florence News & Events October 2013 by FLORENCENEWSEVENTS

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October 2013, No.2

From cross-culture to cross-country

Galleries go on cultural exchange as Corri la Vita takes off in Florence LUCY DAVID

October showcases cultural exchange as Florence’s galleries and cinema screens celebrate cross-cultural influences ranging from Italy to France, Siberia and New Zealand. Both Palazzo Pitti and Villa Bardini host major exhibitions on loan from France that highlight artistic interplay between Italy and France in the nineteenth century. Palazzo Pitti displays Impressionists at Palazzo Pitti: 12 masterpieces from Musée d’Orsay until Jan-

uary 5, the result of a collaboration between the two institutions that saw a Palazzo Pitti collection take a starring role at a Musée de l’Orangerie exhibition earlier this year, comparing Tuscany’s so-called ‘Macchiaioli’ art pioneers with the French Impressionists. As French paintings leave native shores, Italian artworks return. The Renaissance from Florence to Paris and Back: Treasures of the Jacquemart-André Museum return home sees monumental Italian Renaissance works on display in Florence after a century’s sojourn

in Paris. Both the exhibition and its collection are the result of an Italo-French exchange: Parisian couple Édouard André and Nélie Jacquemart sourced the artworks from Florentine art dealer Stefano Bardini in the nineteenth century, and it is to Villa Bardini that the works return for their four-month stay. Venturing from Europe to Asia, The Russian Avant-garde, Siberia and the East exhibition at Palazzo Strozzi until January 19 traces the origins of the Russian avant-garde movement to its artists’ fascination with the Orient and

the melting pot of Eurasian cultures that formed the Russian Empire. Just as the Russian avant-garde movement saw the definition of ‘Russian territory’ change over the course of revolution and two world wars, Palazzo Strozzi’s little sister Centre for Contemporary Culture Strozzina hosts Unstable Territory: Borders and identity in contemporary art (also until January 19), which examines how globalization and technology has made ‘border’ a porous concept. On screen, the Odeon Cinema lights up for

a 50-day festival of international cinema, while the British Institute pays homage to Florence’s lesser-known Australian and New Zealand population with a tribute to Antipodean film. Outside the galleries and cinema halls, Corri la Vita fun run makes the most of autumn’s lingering days with a five-kilometer walk and 13-kilometer run past Florence’s most famous sights on October 13 in what may be considered a warm-up to the city’s more gruelling marathon on November 24.

50 Days of International Cinema

Corri la Vita fun run takes off on Oct. 13

Celebrating Halloween in Florence

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Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

EXHIBITIONS

Florentine masterpieces return home a century later

Florence News & Events is the monthly supplement to www.theitaliannewspaper.com Florence News & Events is distributed throughout Florence in all key reference points for the English-speaking community, including hotels and hostels, universities and language schools, libraries, tourist information points, restaurants and cafes.

Strozzi exhibition traces Russian avant-garde to the Orient Juliet Stephenson

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: LORENZO PICCHI EDITOR: LUCY DAVID EDITORIAL ASSISTANT: IVANA SCATOLA GRAPHIC & WEB DESIGN: NAZ KANGAL This month's contributors: MISTY EVANS, SARAH HUMPREYS, AVANI KAPUR, FRANCESCA LYNAGH, LARA MAY, ANDREW SHEPHERD, Juliet Stephenson AND JAMES TAYLOR. Publisher: IAF Print: Nuova Cesat SRL Via B. Buozzi 21, 50145, Firenze Registered at the Tribunale di Firenze No. 5801, 3/11/2010

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Paolo Uccello, Saint George and the Dragon (1430–35) ated; a Virgin and Child by Baldovinetti; and a collection of works by the Venetian, Paduan The Renaissance from Florence to Paris and and Ferrarese schools, including Mantegna’s Back: Treasures of the Jacquemart-André Mu- fascinating Ecce Homo. seum return home sees The artworks are on loan Renaissance masterpiecfrom the Jacquemart-An[The museum is] second dré Museum, second es from Paris return to their point of origin in only to the Louvre in only to the Louvre in Florence for the very first boasting the biggest coltime since their departure boasting [France’s] biggest lection of Florentine Remore than a century ago. naissance art in the whole collection of Florentine Paintings by Botticelli, of France. The museum’s Renaissance art. Mantegna, Paolo Uccollection was created to cello, Luca Signorelli display the impressive and Alesso Baldovinetti, and sculptures by assortment of masterpieces that art enthusiasts Donatello and Giambologna are on display and prestigious bourgeois couple Édouard Anuntil December 31 at Villa Bardini, the same dré (one of the most powerful bankers of the location from which they were sold in the nine- nineteenth century, and close acquaintance of teenth century. Napoleon III) and portrait painter Nélie JacThe exhibition includes Paolo Uccello’s fa- quemart gathered over their lifetimes. mous Saint George and the Dragon, Donatel- The thrill of collecting pieces of art was very lo’s bronze bust of Ludovico Gonzaga, Giam- much en vogue at the turn of the nineteenth bologna’s mighty Hercules and the Centaur century for the well-educated and wealthy EuNessus; works by Lo Scheggia, brother of ropean and American bourgeoisie. From 1882 renowned Renaissance artist Masaccio, whose onwards the pair made an obligatory visit to works have only recently come to be appreci- Florence each year, where they met art deal-

Ivana Scatola

er Stefano Bardini and purchased hundreds of priceless works of art. The collection was left to the State in 1912 and in 1913 the Jacquemart-André Museum was founded. A century after the museum’s foundation, these Renaissance Italian masterpieces are being returned home. The Renaissance from Florence to Paris and Back has been carefully curated by a team of Italo-French specialists and is overseen by the P.S.A.E (the Historic, Artistic and Ethno-Anthropological Patronage) in collaboration with the French Institute.

The Renaissance from Florence to Paris and Back: Treasures of the Jacquemart-AndrE Museum return home

Until December 31 Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio, 2 Tuesday–Sunday: 10 a.m.–7 p.m. 055 26 38 599 info@bardinipeyron.it www.renaissanceflorenceparis.com

Palazzo Strozzi hosts the first international exhibition to examine the fundamental importance of Oriental and Eurasian connection to Russian Modernism. The Russian Avant-garde, Siberia and the East is on exhibition until January 19, 2014 and proposes that the movement was not just Russian or European, but also inspired by the traditions of the Orient. At the turn of the nineteenth century, Russian avant-garde artists began looking for new sources of inspiration. They discovered Neolithic stone figures, Chinese popular prints, Indian philosophy, Siberian shaman rituals, and Japanese engravings, which they started to use as inspiration for their aesthetic and theoretical ideas during a time of bold experiment and innovation. Léon Bakst, Alexandre Benois, Pavel Filonov, Natalia Gončarova, Vasili Kandinsky, Mikhail Larionov and Kazimir Malevič are some of the artists that recognized the East for the inspiration of their art and contributed to an important debate about the movement’s origins. Bakst’s costumes and sets for the Ballets Russes pay homage to Buddhist temples, Shiva sculptures and Siamese costumes, while Malevich paid homage to the Buddhist concept of Nirvana with abstract paintings. The exhibition displays 130 works, including 79 paintings, watercolours and drawings; 15 sculptures, and 36 oriental artefacts and ethnographical objects, and also focuses on lesser-known artists, such as Nikolai Kalmakov, Sergej Konenkov and Vasilij Vatagin, whose works are on display for the first time in the West.

The Russian Avant-garde, Siberia and the East Until January 19, 2014 Open daily (holidays included): 9 a.m.–8 p.m. Thursday: 9 a.m.–11 p.m. 055 26 45 155 www.palazzostrozzi.org

Musée d’Orsay makes an impression on Florence

pITTA M'INGOLLI

Edgar Degas, Répétition sur la scène (1874)

Palazzo Pitti hosts Renoir and Monet masterpieces Ivana Scatola

Winner of the Travellers’ Choice Award by Trip Advisor

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Winner of the Travellers’ Choice Award by Trip Advisor for the best restaurants in Florence, Osteria di Santo Spirito is located in Piazza Santo Spirito right across from the Church. The unique restaurant is well-known among the locals of the area and fits well into the district full of Florence craftsmen, artisans and small shops. The style of the restaurant is rustic and elegant allowing guests to take in the wonderful atmosphere while dining. The menu offers traditional authentic Tuscan cuisine. Seasonal Outdoor seating is also available. The Osteria is open all day long and offers both lunch and dinner.

Located in Piazza Santo Spirito, Pitta M’Ingolli offers a typical Italian breakfast, traditional sandwiches and salads for a light lunch and cold cuts for a delicious dinner. At weekends Pitta M’Ingolli becomes the perfect place to sit back with an aperitivo and enjoy the lively nightlife of Santo Spirito.

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Palazzo Pitti is currently hosting 12 masterpieces by groundbreaking Impressionist artists, including Degas, Monet, Cézanne, Renoir, Pisarro and Guigou in an exhibition that includes such prominent works as Cézanne’s The Blue Vase and Renoir’s Gabrielle with a Rose. The collection is drawn from Paris’s Musée d’Orsay and has been conceived in gratitude to Palazzo Pitti, after its contributions to the Musée de l’Orangerie made its exhibition, Les Macchiaioli 1850–1874. Des impressionnistes italiens? (‘The Macchiaioli 1850–1874: Italian Impressionists?’) possible. Earlier this year 19 works of art by the so-called ‘Macchiaioli’, Tuscan art pioneers who broke new ground in the late 1800s with a style that composed artworks using ‘macchie’ or marks, and a precious diary by Telemaco Signorini spent three months in France. A highlight of both exhibitions is the synchrony and intercultural exchange between French and Italian artists in the late 1800s, a theme that also resonates in the collaboration: “This extraordinary event is the result of an exchange between two of the most important French and Italian artistic institutions,” said Cristina Acidini, Superintendent of Polomuseale Fiorentino. In return, Tuscans will now be able to admire French chef d’oeuvres until January 5, 2014. The artworks are displayed in two parts: ‘Open Air’ displays representations of the exterior: landscapes and the

relationship with light and its effect that the Impressionists were so fascinated by. Artworks on show include a female nude study by Renoir from 1875-76; works by Pissaro, including The Approaching of the Storm and Path Through the Woods in Summer (both from 1877); Paul Guigou’s Washerwoman (1860) and Monet’s Les Tuileries (1875) and The Seine at Port-Villez (1890). The second part of the exhibition, entitled ‘Interiors’, presents figures in interior settings, such as Degas’ renowned Ballet Rehearsal on Stage (1874), and then moves on to stilllife works, such as Cèzanne’s The Blue Vase (1889-90) and Renoir’s Gabrielle with a Rose (1911). The Impressionist movement is one of the most iconic in the history of French art. The style arose out of a departure from conventional methods of painting and an approach towards the transcription of visual reality and modern subjects. Impressionist art captured ‘moments’, snippets of time in the everyday world as opposed to the perfect, timeless scene. It thus subverted traditional artistic codes and revolutionised painting style with an innovative and (at the time), radically small, short brushstroke technique.

Impressionists at Palazzo Pitti: 12 masterpieces from Musee d'Orsay Until January 5, 2014 Palazzo Pitti www.impressionistiafirenze.it/eng

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

Debate on Mona Lisa’s return to Florence continues

Groundswell support is growing for Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa to be exhibited in Florence a century after it was stolen from the Louvre by an Italian employee and exhibited at the Uffizi. An Italian petition signed by more than 150,000 people calling on the Louvre to

‘return’ the painting to Florence is in circulation, and the National Committee for Historical, Cultural and Environmental Heritage says it has made a formal request to French Culture Minister Aurelie Filippetti. The return of the Mona Lisa to Florence would be of “high historical value, both symbolic and moral,” says committee president Silvano Vincenti. The artwork is believed to have been begun in Italy before Leonardo da Vinci sold it to the French king Francis I in the early sixteenth century. The Province of Florence is currently in negotiations with the French authorities to discuss the possibility of hosting the artwork at Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, which is equipped with the required security for an exhibition of such international importance. In 1911 disgruntled Louvre employee Vincenzo Perugia walked out of the Louvre carrying the Mona Lisa with the intention of ‘repatriating’ it back to Italy. The theft remained unsolved for two years until Perugia confessed his crime and handed the priceless artwork over, with the stipulation that it remained in Italy. The Mona Lisa was exhibited at the Uffizi and taken on a celebrated tour of Italy before being handed back to the Louvre in December 1913.

Mona Lisa documentary in production as crypt excavations continue A thriller-style documentary about Leonardo’s masterpiece Mona Lisa is currently in production in Tuscany.Filming took place on location at Prato, Calenzano and Pistoia in September, with rumored sites including Piazza del Comune, Porta Santa Trinità, San Domenico and Palazzo Datini. The plot centers upon the dynamic between Leonardo da Vinci and Lisa Gherardini, who is widely believed to be the muse for Leonardo’s famous portrait, and traces the myths that have sprung up in subsequent centuries. Award-winning director Jean-Pierre Isbouts is directing the documentary, a Pantheon Studios production for the History Channel. Italian production is being overseen by Prato company Premiere Produzioni. The news comes as “modern-day Indiana Jones” Silvano Vincenti, head of Italy’s National Committee for the

Promotion of Historic and Cultural Heritage, leads excavations to confirm the identity of the woman who is believed to have lent her mysterious smile to the world’s most famous portrait. Vincenti is currently excavating the family crypt of Florentine silk merchant Francesco del Giocondo, whose wife Lisa Gherardini is a leading contender for the identity of the Mona Lisa. Vincenti plans to test DNA from bones in the crypt – most likely from Gherardini’s son Piero – and match it with those of three women buried in the Sant’Orsola convent, where Gherardini is believed to have lived out the rest of her life. Once a definitive match can be made between the crypt DNA and the Sant’Orsola remains then one of the most intriguing muses of the art world may be identified.

FLORENCE NEWS

Giambologna’s Sabines model restored Giambologna’s clay version of the Rape of the Sabines has just been restored. The version, created between 1579 and 1580, is one of the oldest models in existence on a one-to-one scale, the marble version of which is on display in the Loggia dei Lanzi. “The restoration of the David eight years ago was above all an emotional experience, while this time [the process] was technically much more demanding,” restorer Cinzia Parnigoni said recently. “In fact, dealing with this restoration required a lot of courage and determination on the part of the whole group. Numerous uncertainties were revealed and faced, both for the type of material used, as well as the scarcity of information available for previous works in this field.” Superintendent for Polo Museale Fiorentino, Cristina Acidini, said: “The concluded restoration is not only an absolutely fresh look at a sixteenth-century masterpiece but represents an authentic success with regard to methodology and technical skill.” The restoration was made possible by the non-profit Friends of Florence Foundation, which financed the restoration.

Uffizi frescoes checked for earthquake damage The Uffizi Gallery is undergoing seismic checks to ensure that its corridor frescoes are free of damage after tremors were felt in Florence linked to an earthquake near Lucca in June. The check is part of a regular supervision and restoration process of the gallery’s corridors and furnishings. Two corridors have already been checked and work is underway on the third. “Nothing serious has happened,” Uffizi architect Antonio Godoli says. “This is a protective measure adopted to ensure that the tremors felt here in the Tuscan capital during the recent earthquakes have not caused damage to the frescoes in the corridors of the gallery.” An earthquake measuring 5.2 on the Richter scale was felt on June 21 in Lunigiana, between the provinces of Lucca and Massa Carrara, followed by several aftershocks. The

Paths of Wonder extended until November 3

The Paths of Wonder exhibition at the Bargello has been extended until November 3. Originally due to end in August, the exhibition displays a variety of newly restored works from the museum’s collections, including French tapestries, jewellery, ornaments, enamel works and sculptures. The entire second room is dedicated to a large relief Madonna and Child in polychrome terracotta by fifteenth-century artist Dello Delli, one of the most interesting and elusive artists of his time. The restorations were undertaken by both the workshop of the Opificio delle Pietre Dure and the restoration studio of Anna Monti, and employed the most advanced technologies. The restoration process is documented as an integral part of the exhibition, which includes videos detailing the stages of restoration and explanatory panels narrating short histories of the pieces to enable the public to further understand and appreciate the artworks on display. Paths of Wonder was organised in memory of Maria Grazia Vaccari, former director of the Sculpture and Terracotta Department of the Opificio delle Pietre Dure and deputy director of the Bargello. The exhibition has also sparked plans to create a monographic catalogue illustrating the restoration process, to be financed by the Opificio.

activity in the area follows Emilia-Romagna’s devastating duel earthquake of May 20 and 29, 2012, measuring 6.1 and 5.8 on the Richter scale respectively, which left 17 people dead and triggered more than 800 aftershocks.

Paths of Wonder

Open daily: 8:15 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed on the 2nd and 4th Monday of each month 055 29 48 83 www.polomuseale.firenze.it/en

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Unstable Territory: Borders and identity in contemporary art reconsiders the idea of territories in modern art in a showcase of works by international artists at the Strozzina. The works in the exhibit examine the different lifestyles and ways of perceiving the relationship between territory and identity in the modern era: where we are now without borders. As new technology makes migration and globalization easier, it changes people’s concepts of their territories, boundaries and borders. The exhibit goes even further to change the meaning of ‘territory’, with artists exploring concepts of social and cultural belonging as well as the traditional geographic sense. Photographs, videos, and installations look at the notion of the border as discovery or barrier from the artist’s perspective as a nomad or traveler. The exhibit also looks at artists Paulo Nazareth and Sigalit Landau’s relationships with their own body and its territories. Nazareth traveled from Brazil to the United States on foot, and his artwork tells his journey. It looks at his multi-ethnic identity, linguistic misunderstandings and ironic encounters. Landau’s performances, entitled DeadSee and Barbed Hula, look at symbolic and physical boundaries, as well as the juxtaposition between life and death, and the achievement and loss of identity. The exhibition also presents a video entitled The Right of Passage by Oliver Ressler and Zanny Begg, which looks at civil rights and national identity. It examines the passport as

the most important legal tool for travel, and features interviews with various people and the difficulty of obtaining basic political rights. An exhibition catalogue is also available in English, featuring critical essays from curators Walter Guadagnini and Franziska Nori, and texts from Ulrich Beck (Munich University and London School of Economics) and Francesco Careri (Rome University).

Unstable Territory: Borders and identity in contemporary art

October 11 – Jan 19, 2014 Centre for Contemporary Culture Strozzina Palazzo Strozzi Tuesday – Sunday: 10 a.m.–8 p.m.; Thursday: 10 a.m.–11 p.m. 055 26 45 155 www.strozzina.org/en The exhibit also runs in conjunction with The Russian Avant-garde, Siberia and the East exhibition, with special twin tickets are available for €10 (full price) and €5 (student).

International Prepaid Sim A BOOKWORM’S HAVEN IN THE HEART OF FLORENCE An English-language bookshop tucked away near the Duomo, Paperback Exchange has welcomed expat bookworms into its cosy interior since 1979. Shelves of fiction, non-fiction, Italian and English classics, children’s and Italian-interest books line the walls, with both new and used titles to pore over. Friendly and knowledgeable staff speak both English and Italian and will happily source a book if you can’t find it on the shelf. Bring in your old books to exchange for unread titles or build up store points towards a discount.

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Contact “When in Florence” For more information Via Verdi, 46/r Or the TIM shop in Via Gioberti 142/r

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

FLORENCE NEWS

Andy Warhol’s American Story comes to Pisa

Andy Warhol’s untitled portrait of Marilyn Monroe (1967) From October 12 until February 2, 2014, Pisa’s Palazzo Blu hosts 150 works by pop art icon Andy Warhol. The artworks are sourced from various American and European museums, including the Andy Warhol Museum in Pittsburgh, the Goodman Gallery in New York and the Berardo Museum in Lisbon. The exhibition is curated by Walter Guadagnini and Claudia Beltramo Ceppi, and follows the creative journey of the revolutionary twentieth-century artist.

The Palazzo Blu exhibition promises a complete insight into Warhol’s America, the wave of change he created through his innovative art style in the nineties, and the themes he embraced, such as violence. “Observing America through Warhol’s works is like observing American history and news stories right there and then,” the curators commented, and indeed, Warhol’s painting of John Kennedy’s assassin is brought immediately to mind. Classic Warhol works are on display, such as his Brillo box, Campbell soup cans, and portraits of Marilyn Monroe, Liz Taylor, Mao and Nixon. Larger works such as Myths, Dollar and Skull are also on show. Knives, which is an iconic Warhol image in Italy due to the fact it was chosen as the cover image for Roberto Saviano’s book on the mafia, Gomorrah, is of course included in the collection.

Andy Warhol: An American Story

Roman Vlad, former artistic director of Florence’s Teatro Comunale, has died at the age of 93. The eminent music personage contributed considerably to the city’s musical output and direction as a distinguished musicologist, composer and pianist. The announcement of Vlad’s death on September 21 was made by Michele Dall’Ongaro, superintendent of Rai Symphony Orchestra, at the opening of the inauguration concert of the Prix Italia in Turin. Born in Romania in 1919, Roman moved to Italy at the age of 19. It was here in the country’s capital that he studied as a pupil under the instruction of Alfredo Casella, at the prestigious

Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia. In the same year of his graduation, one of Vlad’s compositions, Sinfonietta received international recognition for the first time, earning him the Enescu Prize in 1942. Vlad was a diverse composer whose works ranged from theatrical operas and symphony pieces to chamber music and film scores. The most famous of his works are perhaps the music soundtrack he composed for René Clair’s Beauty and the Devil (1950), as well as musical works such as his The Japanese Seasons, 24 Haiku, and Varying Melody. Vlad accumulated an impressive collection of positions and titles in his lifetime. In addition to

to Heaven’ can be admired. The ‘sky’ section, which features gilded statues and ornate gold stars scattered across the inside of the deepblue painted domed ceiling, gives visitors an extraordinary and privileged viewpoint from which to observe the ornate medieval cathedral and its stunning Renaissance mosaic flooring in its entirety. Until recently, this work of art has only been observed by the architects and builders that have undertaken work on this section of the

Knox’s DNA on the handle and victim Meredith Kercher’s DNA on the blade. It was recovered from a kitchen drawer in the house of Raffaele Sollecito, who along with Knox is on retrial for Kercher’s 2007 murder. The retrial is underway at the Florence appeals court without the presence of Amanda Knox, who returned to Seattle in 2011 after her acquittal and recently confirmed that she would not be in attendance at the appeal due to the media circus that accompanied her previous visit. The final hearing of the retrial is expected to take place in November, leading to a possible verdict by Christmas.

SNACK BAR ANNA THE Bagel POINT Enjoy the relaxing atmosphere and the jumbo cappuccinos while having a chat with Anna and Stefano, who will welcome you in a warm and friendly way. Grab one of the many homemade bagels, the bar’s perfected specialty since 1990. These bagels and sandwiches have made this snack spot one of the most popular among local Americans. While taking a break in the back seating area you will be pleased to experience the nocharge table service, which places Snack Bar Anna far from the ‘tourist traps’ in the city.

Opening hours: Mon. to Sat.: 8:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m.

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his role as artistic director at Florence’s Teatro Comunale, which he held from 1968 to 1972, Vlad was president of CISAC (International Confederation of Artists and Composers Societies), artistic director of the Roman Philharmonic Academy, artistic director of the National Symphony Orchestra of Turin Rai, president of the Aquilana Society of Concerts, member of the Directory Council of the Accademia Nazioale di Santa Cecilia where he studied, and artistic consultant for the renowned Ravenna Festival. He is also the author of The History of Twelve-Tone Music (1958), as well as the biographies of music dignitaries Igor Stravinksy and Luigi Dallapiccola.

Siena Cathedral’s ‘Gateway to Heaven’ now open till January 6 Public access to Siena Cathedral’s ‘Gateway to Heaven’ ceiling has been extended until January 6, 2014 due to unprecedented demand. Revealed to the public for the first time in 900 years in April of this year after the completion of centuries’ worth of extensive restorations, the exclusive opportunity to climb and observe this beautiful wonder was due to end on October 27. The ceiling is accessible via a delicate spiral staircase to a walkway at the top of the 16-meter nave from which the ‘Gateway

Palazzo Blu Lungarno Gambacorti, 9, Pisa Mon–Fri: 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Sat–Sun: 10 a.m.–8 p.m. 050 31 98 830 mostrawarhol.it (in Italian)

New DNA tests ordered for weapon in Knox trial Judges for the Amanda Knox case have ordered new DNA tests to be carried out on the knife believed to be the murder weapon at the retrial’s first hearing in Florence on September 30. The knife in question bears tiny traces of

Florentine artistic director Roman Vlad dies at 93

Gateway to Heaven

Siena Cathedral Until January 6, 2014 Tickets (by reservation only) Cost: €25; children under 11: €7 Info/bookings: 0577 28 63 00 opasiena@operalaboratori.com

Taste the history of the Italian panino

The Artisan Ice-Cream Shop

What is an Italian panino? In the Italian culinary tradition, the panino has a very long history. It was originally eaten as a light snack consisting of bread, cheese and cold cuts. After a strenuous morning or afternoon of work, a panino is the ideal snack to stave off hunger. Every day we try to give you the freshest food and most fragrant bread, and every day we prepare just what we need to fill a certain number of panini: a choice that means our panini are always fresh and taste better for this reason. Drop in for breakfast, brunch or browse our deli range. Vegetarian and vegan ingredients offered.

In 1938, the idea for a shop was born based on the same question it bears as its name: Perché no! ‘why not?’. Ugo Ravaioli, founder and owner of the ice-cream shop for decades found an ideal location on Via de’ Tavolini to start the ‘sweet business.’ Ever since, Perché no! has been one of Florence’s most famous spots for refreshment. It is an authentic venue for ice-cream lovers famous for its ‘semifreddi.’ Today, the shop is run by Mrs. Paola and her daughters who rediscovered original recipes and create unique flavors while paying attention to the quality of ingredients.

Opening hours: Monday – SATURDAY: 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Via Sant’ Egidio, 22/r 347 118 8056 oilshoppe@gmail.com

cathedral over the centuries. The colorful stained-glass window by Ulisse De Matteis depicting the apostles is also now visible to the public, along with the inlaid marble mosaic floor ordinarily covered with sheets for protection that was described by sixteenth-century Italian painter and architect Giorgio Vasani as : “The most beautiful, largest and most magnificent floor that ever was made.” With 900 years between glimpses, this is one opportunity not to be missed.

HAIRDRESSER AND BEAUTY SERVICES Located in the central area of Sant’Ambrogio in Santa Croce, Alchimia offers a variety of women’s hair and beauty services using the finest brands, such as Moroccanoil, Paul Mitchell, GHD and CND Shellac. Services include: • Haircuts • Long-length extensions • Keratin reconstruction • Paul Mitchell product retailer • Shellac reconstruction and permanent enamel • Waxing • Massage (healing and relaxation) • Custom make-up • Cut, color and highlight

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Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

FLORENCE NEWS

Take your marks for Corri la Vita Ponte Santa Trinita fun run on October 13 pedestrianized from October 25 Ponte Santa Trinita is to be fully pedestrianized from October 25, a full year ahead of schedule. The changes will see the removal of the bicycle lane, installed last year and considered by many to be a blight on the historic bridge, and involve a change of direction for traffic on Lungarno Corsini. The pedestrianization takes place precisely four years after Piazza del Duomo was unveiled as a car-free zone by Mayor Renzi in 2009 as part of a progressive plan to pedes-

If the UN Road World Championships weren’t enough to stir the desire for Lycra-clad exercise then Florentine inhabitants have two more reasons to get up off the couch. The city’s major running events kick off in October and November, with Corri la Vita (Run for Life) fun run taking place on October 13 and the heavy-duty Florence Marathon on November 24. Corri la Vita is a charity event supporting public health facilities that specialize in the fight against breast cancer. Organized in collaboration with L.I.L.T. Florence (Italian Cancer Society, Florence branch), the event has raised €2.5 million and involved 137,000 participants n its previous 10 editions. The route capitalizes on the sights and sounds of Florence, beginning in the Piazza del Duomo, and ending in the Piazza della Signoria. Participants can enjoy the five-kilometer walk or the more chal-

lenging 13-kilometer run. For a minimum €10 donation, participants receive the official Corri la Vita t-shirt designed by Salvatore Ferragamo. If you’d rather break the pain barrier than merely break a sweat, the 43-kilometer Florence Marathon takes place on November 24. This has grown to become the second-largest marathon in Italy after Rome, and is among the 20 most important marathons in the world. This year marks the marathon’s 30th birthday, and is set to attract more runners than ever to its 2012 swag of 10,500 participants. This particularly beautiful course, which takes in centuries of art, history and culture enroute, attracts thousands professional and amateur running enthusiasts from all corners of the globe. The race passes Florence’s most famous landmarks, including Piazza della Signoria, the Ponte Vecchio and Piazza Santa Croce, but it

trianize key areas of the city. The change involved the re-routing of more than 1000 buses, which transported more than 20,000 passengers past the Baptistery on a daily basis. In June 2011 Via Tornabuoni and Piazza Pitti were also declared pedestrian zones. Ponte Santa Trinita is one of Florence’s most treasured bridges. Destroyed at the end of the Second World War by departing German troops, it was recovered stone by stone from the Arno and painstakingly rebuilt in 1957.

also takes in stunning views of the Tuscan hills and countryside. Registration currently costs €60 until October 31 and thereafter increases to €70.

Corri la Vita

October 13, 9:30 a.m. Piazza del Duomo 055 57 69 39 www.corrilavita.it info@corrilavita.it Registration open until Oct 13 (9:30 a.m.)

Florence Marathon November 24 055 55 22 957 www.firenzemarathon.it

Florence welcomes free wi-fi Wi-fi access in Florence is now completely free, allowing users to enjoy two hours’ free internet surfing and up to 300MB of traffic per day without the need for registration or a password. The network covers 120 areas of the city, from the center to the periphery, with approximately 450 hotspots. The news was foreshadowed by Mayor Renzi in June, who took to Facebook to announce

that the city’s wi-fi service now covered four hectares: “From San Lorenzo to Via Martelli, Piazza Duomo, Via Calzaiuoli, Piazzale degli Uffizi, Piazza San Firenze, Piazza della Signoria and up to Ponte Vecchio – not just single wifi piazzas but an enormous continuous carpet in which it is possible to navigate wirelessly.” The ‘Florence WiFi’ network is a combined project between the City of Florence and the University of Florence.

MAY DAY TUSCAN, ITALIAN AND FRENCH WINES IN THE CELLAR IN SANTO SPIRITO

THE RESTAURANT OF THE FLORENTINES

MIXOLOGY MEETS MUSIC NEAR THE DUOMO

Beneath the Enoteca Millesimi, carefully looked after and hidden away in its 17th-century cellar, rest thousands of bottles of Tuscan, Italian and French wines just waiting for you to find them. Including all the classics as well as young developing wines, you can find the Enoteca Millesimi in the Santo Spirito district of Florence - just cross the Santa Trinita Bridge, follow Via Maggio to its end and turn right onto Via Mazzetta, followed by your first left onto Borgo Tegolaio and look for number 33/r. You can also take the D bus in that direction from the station.

Located in Via Ghibellina near Santa Croce, Da Que’ Ganzi offers a fresh seafood and meat menu for both lunch and dinner. Tuscan specialties include ribollita and authentic Florentine steak, and all of the cakes and sweets are homemade. A special weekday lunch menu for less than €10 makes the restaurant affordable for anyone.

Mayday Club is where mixology meets music: an artisan hub where notes of all sorts are selected, blended and enjoyed by tastebuds and ears alike. Ingredients are sourced organically and handcrafted to produce unique and surprising beverages, while beer is made from local barley and wheat and served unfiltered and unpasteurized. The bar frequently hosts art exhibitions, live music and poetry nights. Listed on worldsbestbars.com, it was sought out by award-winning barman Victor Delpierre from the Paris Ritz.

Opening hours: Monday to Friday: 2 p.m.– 8 p.m. Saturday: 10:30 a.m.– 8 p.m. Borgo Tegolaio, 33/r 055 26 54 675 Millesimisrl@tin.it

Opening hours: Mon. to Sun.: 12–2:30 p.m. & 7:30–11:30 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays.

Via Ghibellina, 70/r 055 22 60 010 www.daqueiganzi.it info@daqueiganzi.it

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It’s the best way to ship your wine, olive oil or any other bottled goods!

Opening hours: Tue. – Sat.: 7 p.m. – 2 a.m. Via Dante Alighieri, 16 055 23 81 290 www.maydayclub.it marco@maydayclub.it

Via dell’ Agnolo, 115/r 055 01 18 470 or 370 11 41 612 www.caratello.net firenze@caratello.net Skype: caratellofirenze

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

NEWS

Rome and Milan vie for 2024 Olympics bid

Italian Premier Enrico Letta has stirred hopes that Italy may host the 2024 Olympics, sparking questions as to whether Rome or Milan would be a more appropriate host city. In September Tokyo won its bid to host the 2020 Olympic Games at an International Olympic Committee (IOC) meeting in Buenos Aires. “What happened in Buenos Aires makes me think that Italy can bid for the 2024 Olympics,” Letta said, in reference to Tokyo’s ability to win the bid in the wake of the 2011 nuclear disaster and the fact that the IOC prefers to alternate continents when choosing successive Olympic hosts. Madrid had also put in a bid for the 2020 Games but failed to win. Rome was a forerunner for the 2020 Olympics bid until former premier Mario Monti decided to pull out of the competition in 2012 in order to focus economic funds on Italy’s immediate domestic crisis. Mayor of Rome Ignazio Marino said the capital was ready, saying: “There are the right

conditions for Rome to bid to host the Games because the city has all the necessary requirements.” However, Milan has emerged as a potential rival to Rome’s bid. Both Lombardy governor Roberto Maroni and former Olympic champion and Lombardy sports councillor Antonio Rossi are keen to promote Milan’s suitability for the bid, pointing out that Milan’s Expo 2015 sporting facilities would easily lend themselves to Olympic requirements. However, Milan mayor Giuliano Pisapia has confirmed that he intends to work together with Marino rather than create an obstacle for Rome. Marino supports the approach: “The race is not between us and Milan, but between us and the rest of the world,” Marino said, “because our country needs to get used to working with rigor and seriousness. If the conditions are met to bring the Olympics to our country, it must be through a process of collective effort and sharing that cannot exclude the other major government, and Pisapia fully endorses this approach.”

Italy ranked 45th in UN happiness index as youth unemployment hits record high Youth unemployment in Italy has crossed the 40 percent threshold to reach a record high of 40.1 percent, national statistics agency Istat announced recently. The number of 15- to 24-year-olds unemployed and actively looking for a job was up by 5.5 percent on July 2012 figures for the same month and 0.4 percent higher in August. According to preliminary data, the statistics amount to 667,000 under 25-year-olds currently out of work. The news comes in the wake of the 2013 release of the United Nation’s World Happiness Report, which found that Italy ranks 45th on the global happiness index, behind crisis-stricken Spain (ranked 38th), Ireland (18th), Mexico (16th) and just scraping in behind neighboring Slovenia (44th).

The document included a comparison of the four Eurozone countries hit hardest by the crisis and noted: “The biggest hit, in terms of the implied drop in life evaluations, was in respondents’ perceived freedom to make key life choices. “In each country the crisis tended to limit opportunities for individuals, both through cutbacks in available services and loss of expected opportunities.” The UN report considered unemployment as the most obvious candidate to explain the countries’ drop in the well-being index, although unemployment was not counted among the six measures used. Italy’s overall rank among the Eurozone crisis study came in second after Spain, followed by Greece (ranked 70th) and Portugal (85th).

Image courtesy of www.fiesolebike.com

Urban cyclists hit the pedals as crisis sees bike popularity soar The bicycle is emerging as a serious force on the roadways as Italy sees a boom in urban cycling, which has more than tripled since 2001. In 2001 urban cyclists comprised 2.9 percent of the adult population; in 2013 this has leapt to 9 percent. The bicycle is the chosen mode of transport for at least five million commuters, who hit the pedals three or four times a week. The phenomenon may even rival Italy’s love affair with the car: in 2012 the number of bicycles sold outstripped cars for the first time in 48 years. An estimated 1, 748, 000 bikes were sold in comparison to 1,450,000 cars. “The desire for new mobility should be sup-

ported and encouraged,” says Erasmo D’Angelis, Secretary for Infrastructure and Transport. “Italy is ready for a cycling revolution and politics has the task of giving a just and concrete response to this strong demand for alternative mobility. “There are many other [examples of] best practices, such as the ‘bicipolitana’ [bike-friendly center] of Pesaro, bike-sharing in Milan or the grand pedestrianization of Florence that offers safe spaces for pedestrians and cyclists along with the opportunity to take bikes onto trams in a rare example of intermodality.” Florence staged several bike-awareness events during

its period as host to the UCI Road World Championships, which took place from September 22 to 29. The Ministry of Infrastructure and Transport set up a dedicated space in Piazza San Firenze to showcase its On Track campaign and provide information and material and cycling gadgets, while the Bicycle Film Festival stopped by Florence for four days of cinema, music, art and design as part of its global tour of 30 cities. The festival aims to “celebrate the bike in 360 degrees”, and since its inauguration in 2001 has become a powerful international catalyst for the urban bike movement.

Caveman carbs to blame for Iceman tooth decay A CAT scan has revealed that Italy’s most famous mummy, ‘Ötzi’, suffered from tooth decay. Swiss scientists at the University of Zurich’s Center for Evolutionary Medicine performed the analysis, which also found that the Neolithic mummy, also known as Iceman, suffered from periodontitis, or degeneration of the bone and gum, and a dead front tooth that is thought to have been caused by an accident or blow. Ötzi’s dental condition is blamed on his intake of starchy carbohydrates and cereals, which formed the basis of the Neolithic diet with the rise of agriculture.

Periodontitis has been linked by modern medicine to cardiovascular disease, signs of which Ötzi also exhibits. Head of Institute for Mummies and the Iceman at EURAC European Academy Albert Zink commented: “It’s interesting that the Iceman should also show hardening of the arteries … As in the case of periodontitis, the cause is to be sought primarily in his genetic predisposition.” Although Ötzi’s discovery stirred interest worldwide when he was recovered from a glacier in 1991, his teeth have not been properly examined until recently. A 3D reconstruction of the mummy’s oral cavity using cutting-edge

computer technology has allowed scientists an unprecedented opportunity to examine an ancient form of a common modern condition. “The loss of the periodontium has always been a very common disease, as the discovery of Stone Age skulls and the examination of Egyptian mummies has shown. Ötzi allows us an especially good insight into such an early stage of this disease,” dentist and team member Roger Seiler said. Previous studies of Ötzi have shown that he was lactose intolerant, possibly suffered from Lyme disease and died as the result of an arrow wound.

Animal rights campaigners call to ban palio

ARTISAN GELATO IN PIAZZA DELLA PASSERA

25-COURSE APERITIVO NEAR PIAZZA BECCARIA

At Gelateria La Passera you’ll only find gelato made entirely from carefully chosen fresh and natural ingredients – no artificial colours or preservatives here. Each day it offers a variety of 20 flavours to try, which change seasonally. Gelateria della Passera’s aim is to offer its clientele a highly artisan, homemade product of both classic flavors and new, unexpected tastes and combinations.

Kitsch undoubtedly offers one of the most lavish aperitivo buffets in Florence. Its buzzing, eclectic vibe, comfy lounge seating and moody lighting would be enough to lure any aperitivo-seeker – and yet here is where Kitsch literally takes the cake. With a generous selection of first and second courses – including Tuscan specialties and several vegetarian dishes – sides, salads and desserts all for the price of a drink, patrons needn’t look further for the rest of the evening. Add outdoor seating, a DJ set and wi-fi internet, and it’s clear why this is one of the most popular spots in Florence to hang out.

Opening hours: Mon. to Sun.: 10 a.m.–7:30 p.m.

Open daily till late. Aperitivo from 6:30 p.m.–10 p.m.

Piazza della Passera, 15

Viale Gramsci, 5r 055 23 43 890 www.kitschfirenze.com kitsch.beccaria@gmail.com

Animal rights campaigners are up in arms over the decision by Asti Palio organizers to continue with the event after one of its horses was killed in a precursor to the event. The incident has led to National Body for the Protection of Animals (ENPA)’s call to ban palio events, including the famous Palio of Siena. This also saw a horse death at a trial race in 2011, prompting then Tourism Minister Michela Vittoria Brambilla to say: “I think the time has come to put the Palio of Siena and other competitions in which living creatures are exploited and risk their lives for the sole enjoyment of people to rigorous scrutiny.” After the incident took place on September 15, ENPA said that it was “appalled to learn that the Asti Palio is taking place anyway, despite the death of a horse in yesterday’s trials.” The Asti Palio takes place annually in Piemonte in a week of medieval pomp and ceremony, and comprises 21 contenders to win the honor of possessing the city’s historic banner.

Rome celebrates Augustus’s legacy

Rome’s Scuderie del Quirinale is hosting an exhibition from October 18 to February 9 to celebrate Augustus’s successes and resounding legend, with loans from both Italian and international museums, including the Louvre and the British Museum. The exhibition is the result of a collaboration between Azienda Speciale Palaexpo, Scuderie del Quirinale, Rome’s Capitoline Museum, the Réunion des Musées Nationaux-Grand Palais and the Louvre, and has been curated by top French and Italian experts. The great-nephew and adopted son of Julius Caesar, Augustus not only brought peace and prosperity to an empire marked by 50 years of insurgencies but skillfully avoided his adopted father’s fate through masterful PR and political nous. The Roman Empire was born as a result of his skilful diplomacy and management, which, according to the exhibition’s curators, “coincided with the birth of a new artistic culture and language that continues even today to lie at the very root

of Western civilisation.” The exhibition traces Augustus’s life with a series of objects and artworks, ranging from statues, portraits and household objects in bronze, silver and glass to rich jewellery and precious stones. Augustus’s reign lasted for more than 40 years – the longest in the city’s entire history. Under his leadership the Roman Empire expanded to cover the whole of the Mediterranean basin, from Greece to the Maghreb, Turkey to Spain and into Germany.

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

MODERN CULTURE

American seeks Italian: Cross-cultural dating well. Before I met him the only thing ‘Casanova’ did was seek out one-night stands with I went out with two Italian guys before I met pretty much anything that breathed, with zero my husband, and the dates were both really concern for looks, mental health, or active weird and very brief. One date lasted about 30 brainwaves – which would have been fine, minutes until I faked liver failure and asked to except that I found myself surrounded by his be taken home after he said, “I’m sorry I was conquests. Friendship groups in Italy begin late but I had to pick up my laundry from my in elementary school and last a lifetime, so it mom’s house.” I draw the line at not being able was obnoxious to learn that every female that to wash your own underwear at 35 years old. he ever spoke with was some sort of ex. Bring My other date told me repeatedly that he didn’t alcohol and bella figura into the scenario and believe that men should have to be faithful be- you have a stressed-out boyfriend trying to cause it’s not in their nature, nor should they politely pry an ex off of his leg while she uses his body as a dance pole, have to help raise children while new girlfriend (me) because “only women can stands nearby shocked “Americans tend to do that.” I thought it best and trying not to murder to leave him in the fifover-share. someone. This happens in teenth-century delusion that he called “the real- We put it all out there and the US as well, though the difference is that it would ity of nature” but what I expect others to do the have been a scandal there called “lazy and self-censame” but here it was, “Well tered with entitlement a-yes-a, is-a normal-a. issues.” Two months later, after I’d given up on the idea What-a could he a do-a? Dey known each othof ever dating a mentally stable person, I was er-a a long-a time-a,” from his other friends. at Angies with some fellow students having a I wasn’t the only one dealing with a little culfew drinks when this cute Italian guy walked ture shock in the relationship. For the first long in alone. In summary, I called him over and while my husband was just as confused as I gave him my phone number, because I’m di- was over the same things. There are a whole rect and don’t have all night to play “please array of ways we’re different, and if your goal come over to me” games. We went for a drink here is landing a date with an Italian you might a week later and we’ve been together ever want to prepare yourself for the many possible since. It kind of sounds like happily-ever-after, ways that you won’t see eye-to-eye. doesn’t it? Sometimes. Let’s just say that dating Communication: Americans tend to overand marrying someone from another culture share. We put it all out there and expect others to do the same: “Hi, my grandmother died presented a lot of challenges for both of us. When we started dating he was exactly like the when I was six. My favorite color is red and I kind of Italian dude you would see in a film: had a stint of bulimia in college, nice to meet sexy, smart, and so romantic that he freaked you.” You sit down with an American for one me out and sometimes made me want to puke. hour and you know a good amount about them. He lavished me with thoughtful gifts, he’d sing In my experience, 20 hours with an Italian and to me while he cooked for me and we danced you’re lucky to learn their last name and occuin the living room to old Italian classics. It was pation – and that is only if you’re questioning intense, considering that romance died off in them to death. My conversational vomit was North America a few hundred years ago and not a positive thing for my husband at first. The has since been replaced with ape-ish ego and fact that I was forthcoming and open was conbasketball jerseys. (American guys interested fusing and weird, which led him to assume that in an Italian woman? You’ve got your work I was a compulsive liar because “nobody could cut out for you and you’ll need to step it up if be so open without a hidden agenda.” When he you hope to win a date here. Stop dressing like realized I wasn’t ‘tricking him’, however, this you’re homeless and stop waiting for women to became his favorite thing about me (or so he fall into your lap. Get up, walk over, and initi- says). Making fast friends: My European friends ate a conversation.) Unfortunately, my husband was also stereo- have said this more times than I can count: typically Italian in all of the negative ways as “Americans are all fake and way too nice.” Misty Evans

The pace of American society and the fact that we frequently move and travel significantly speeds up our friend-making process. This is not the way things often work in most of Italy (or Europe in general). It’s unlikely that you will become close buddies with your partner’s group of friends in a few months or even a few years. I’ve been with my husband for four years and I can honestly tell you that I know almost nothing about his friends, with the exception of two that I basically force to hang out with me against their will. My husband, on the other hand, finds it weird that my friends treat him like a close friend. Emotions and drama: Americans can seem cold. Feelings? What feelings? It’s true that we’re not openly emotional and it’s pretty rare to see someone (outside of a trailer park) being emotional in public. Emotions are expressed more freely in Italy, and therefore my husband had no problem showing me or telling me how he felt in front of others. He was openly jealous and threw the occasional chimpanzee tantrum too, which I found a little bit crazy. I didn’t show my emotions and I never voiced jealousy, which was a red light that I didn’t care about him or our relationship. Once his friend told me, “I don’t think you love him because you’re never jealous. You’re just playing games.” True story. Family: Everyone is different but Italian fam-

ilies tend to be closer and more heavily ‘involved’ than American families. People in their thirties here often seek approval from their parents, and it’s not unheard of for an Italian mother to control everything until her son or daughter turns 50 or dies. My husband’s family calls him, like, 475 times per day, which is certifiably insane in the US. I talk with my parents once per month on Skype and maybe once per week via email. My husband’s family views this as neglect and abandonment. Superficiality: The level of superficiality here is on par with what you’ll experience in the southern states of the US. There is a lot of ‘village gossip’: people being nice to your face and then saying mean things behind your back. This is a weird thing for those of us from the northern, eastern, or western United States and the other English-speaking countries, where we tend to be more direct and care less about ‘reputation’. My husband was freaked out by my willingness to tell people exactly what I thought all the time. “Misty, you cannot say stuff like that,” was something I heard about 4000 times in the beginning. I was equally frustrated with his lack of direct honesty with his friends and family, and the way they all avoided disagreements or opinions. This varies from city to city and person to person, however the Italians that I asked all agreed that this was a basic truth throughout Italy.

Gender roles: An Italian girlfriend of mine described women’s roles in many parts of Italy as “desperate wives waiting to give birth to future desperate wives.” Roles in Italy are still circa 1950s America. According to a recent article in The Telegraph: “The reality is that sexism is entrenched in Italian society, with women traditionally having been perceived as either homemakers or lovers. Italy’s mass media has played no small role in normalising this: private television channels owned by the country’s former colourful prime minister Silvio Berlusconi and state-owned broadcasters both routinely cast women as showgirls, allowing misogynistic attitudes to become more passively accepted over the past two decades.” There are many exceptions, though it’s common for Italian men to go from being taken care of by their moms to searching for a girlfriend who will take her place. Women will often assume very traditional roles because they assume that’s what is expected of them. Cultural differences in a relationship can add color and fun and allow you to grow and see the world in an entirely different light. The differences can also be difficult and frustrating. The key is to keeping an open mind, communicating, and of course setting boundaries. Culture should never be an excuse to put up with something you wouldn’t tolerate in your home country.

Discover ESN, the association for international students in Florence was a need for a consultative group especially designed for foreign students. Slowly, the project ESN Florence was born and three years on, it is still thriving and expanding rapidly. For us, ESN was, (and still is), an opportunity to belong to a family in each city, in each nation. This project gives us the opportunity to meet new and interesting people each day, in turn enabling us to grow and mature and open our minds together.” In the next few weeks, ESN Florence will be in charge of two very important events. It will be organising the ‘Council of National Representatives,’ an event attended by 70 international representatives from all cooperating countries in the Erasmus project, to discuss the network’s future activities and projects. The Florentine institutions involved in its organisation are extremely excited to have this opportunity to contribute and provide Italian hospitality for this important event.

Alessia Carlozzo (Freelance and Head of Official Publications for ESN Italy)

Florence has always held an irresistible charm over foreign tourists and outsiders. As the birthplace of both the Renaissance and the Italian language, the home city of Dante, Boccaccio and Brunelleschi attracts an ever growing number of visitors yearning to experience this precious city. This foreign presence is easily detected throughout the streets of the city; mostly on behalf of students belonging to study abroad schemes who choose Florence as

their destination for their period of study. Erasmus recently celebrated its 25th anniversary, and its presence and importance throughout Europe is ever increasing. Every year, thousands of young students gain grants to study as part of a European-wide project and find themselves moving to the capital of Tuscany for a year or even just a few months. Soon enough, they arrive in the city and are immediately overwhelmed by the ever-abundant atmosphere of history and art that permeates throughout. Luckily, non-profit organisation ESN Florence is there to assist in the relief of this initial bewilderment. It is an association

run by volunteer students and forms part of the biggest European network that deals with international mobility, the Erasmus Student Network. The Florentine part of this organisation was founded in October 2010 thanks to the hard work of students led by Claudia Romano, a student from Benevento in Campania, who came to the University of Florence three years ago to complete her studies. She found that settling into the university was surprisingly difficult, and soon enough the idea to establish an ESN section in the city began to take shape. “We came to realise that there

The event will take place from October 17–20, and will open with a conference taking place at Palagio di Parte Guelfa, which also hosts the annual ESN Florence Welcome Day. This is a day dedicated to welcoming new students; introduce them to the organisation and its projects, and to the benefits of obtaining an ESN card. This day therefore helps students to familiarise themselves a little more with the city, and make the most of their first few inevitably difficult and confusing days in their new foreign country. ESN Florence bases itself on the principle of ‘students helping students.’ It prides itself in assisting newcomers in their arrival to the city, and helps them in the search for accommodation as well as the imperative development of their confidence in speaking Italian, by organising informal and friendly language socials where they can practise and chat with one another.

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

culture

International Ceramic Fair returns to Florence

where ships stopped while transporting the glazed pottery from Valencia to Italy. The annual Ceramic Fair in Piazza Santissima Majolica ceramics have a thick white glaze Annunziata returns this year for one weekend and beautiful, vividly colored designs that are only from October 5 till 6. The event hosts 70 resistant to fading. Although this unique style potters from all over Italy has been produced since and Europe in a kaleido- [Majolica] would often be the thirteenth century, it is scope of colours, and prestypical of the peak of the ents an opportunity for ce- used to depict and narrate Renaissance, particularramic artisans to showcase a particular historic event ly towards the end of the their unique creations and period where the ceramics or biblical scene, various techniques. would often be used to deotherwise known as Ceramics have long been pict and narrate a particua staple of Italian artisan lar historic event or biblical istoriato maiolica .... culture. A prominent feascene, otherwise known as ture of the fair is a technique known as majol- istoriato maiolica. Trade surrounding these ica, named after the Spanish island of Majorca versatile goods became essential and towns Ivana Scatola & Avani Kapur

close to Florence, such as Deruta and Montelu- at the craft, with the help of expert ceramicists po, became renowned for their ceramic ware. alongside to teach and guide them. In addition to colorful The Ceramics Fair began Mediterranean majolica, [The] workshop ‘Let’s Play in 1994 in Artimino, a province in Prato, but has techniques such as Japanese Raku ware, strong with Clay’ [is] specifically been held in Florence since stoneware and elegant designed to encourage 2000. Stalls onsite serve organNorthern European porcelain are represented. This children to try their hand at ic food and wine, giving patrons plenty of reason year, Latvian ceramicist the craft. to browse the decorative Ingrida Zagrada and the Kypsela da Saint Felliu de Gixols workshop items, sculptures, jewellery and everyday from Spain both exhibit their individual tech- household objects available. Whether you’re interested in artfully designed vases or neckniques. The event is child-friendly as well, with work- lace pendants, it’s an ideal opportunity to disshop ‘Let’s Play with Clay,’ specifically de- cover some distinctive and rare pieces to take signed to encourage children to try their hand home.

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Ceramica Fiorentina B.C. produces beautifully glazed ceramic artifacts, reproducing a historic Italian pottery style in the majolica and Montelupo traditions. The majolica style was widespread and very popular in Florence and the surrounding area between 1420 and 1550 and is part of Florence’s proud artisan tradition. Via del Melarancio, 15/r 055 23 96 979 ceramicaartisticafiorentina.com peitloren@hotmail.it

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

HALLOWEEN

Celebrating Halloween in the medieval city With thousands of American students pouring into Florence each fall, it’s little wonder that Florence has begun to take on some cherished American traditions. In October, of course, this means Halloween. So for those of you studying abroad with fears of not being able to celebrate an American favorite, do not fear: the clubs and bars across Florence will guarantee a haunted vibe. Expect costumes and drink specials throughout the nightlife scene, making you feel right at home. Most of the bars and clubs have some sort of Halloween party, and their advertising isn’t exactly scarce here in the city. In Italy, the holiday has been embraced more so by adults, but in recent years young children have been known to dress up and trick-

or-treat – from storefront to storefront, that is (Florence isn’t exactly your typical suburban neighborhood). Halloween conveniently falls on the day before All Saints’ Day, a national holiday in Italy. Known as Ognissanti, it was recreated in Italy by Pope Boniface IV with the intention of replacing the pagan holiday with one of Catholic roots, with the same intention of taking a day to pay respects to the deceased. Ognissanti is a time for families to bring flowers and light candles at the graves of those family members who have died, and a time to celebrate all Catholic saints and martyrs. Cities shut down on Ognissanti: museums close, store hours are cut and classes are cancelled – creating the perfect (though irreverent) excuse to deal with Halloween’s inevitable hangover.

Dirty deeds and dire deaths Ivana Scatola

It is said that the feast of Halloween originated from a merging of harvest festivals, pagan celebrations of the dead and most importantly, as the eve before the two day Christian feast days All Hallows’ or All Saints’ Day (November 1), and All Souls’ Day, (November 2): a feast for the dead. With this somber theme in mind, we look back at the most famous deaths Florence has produced in its civic history, and their various sinister forms. The most famous of these is undoubtedly that of Girolamo Savonarola: Dominican friar, Florentine influential political personage and preacher. Savonarola was renowned for his passionate sermons, in which he entirely condemned moral corruption and forewarned of an oncoming apocalypse. He orchestrated the so-called ‘Bonfire of the Vanities’, which was responsible for destroying thousands of Renaissance treasures: books, artworks (allegedly some by Botticelli), clothes and musical instruments, all set alight in an attempt to purge the city of materialistic goods and temptations. After denouncing Pope Alexander VI, he was naturally excommunicated by the leader of the Catholic Church, and soon

the city turned against him. He was arrested and imprisoned with fellow friars Fra Domenico and Fra Silvestro Maruffi, and tortured, until he confessed that he had invented seeing prophecies and visions that he had previously claimed were divine. The three friars were publicly hanged and then (ironically) burnt in the Piazza della Signoria on May 23, 1498, precisely where a commemorative plaque in honour of the three lies today. Other famous deaths granted by the city are those of the conspirators of the Pazzi plot against the Medici family. An attempt to overthrow the Medici family and their political hold over the city by means of the assassination of brothers Lorenzo and Giuliano de’ Medici was dramatically carried out in the Duomo, during Mass. The attempt was not entirely successful; Giuliano was killed and Lorenzo was merely wounded, and the conspirators inevitably met their fate in the most humiliating of methods. Jacopo de’ Pazzi was flung from a window, and mobs dragged his naked body through the streets and threw it in the Arno. Francesco Salviati was hanged from the walls of the Palazzo Vecchio, and Bernardo di Bandino Baroncelli was publicly executed at the Bargello.

Between Florence’s bloody walls execution, the bell inside the tower (the Volognana), sounded slowly until the final moment With Halloween creeping (quite literally) upon of death. Furthermore, as a warning and reus, you can’t help but wonder about Florence’s minder of the building’s purpose, apparently a eclectic history and the sights it must have wit- tree stump would be placed outside the buildnessed in the past. Behind the extraordinary ing displaying the victim’s head, for all to see. monuments and breathtaking architecture that American writer Charles Godfrey Leland’s make up this city, it is inevitable that a few sin- reports in his Legends of Florence Collected ister and gory sights took place. The city was from the People, (1896) that prisoners of the most likely home to some disturbing charac- Bargello were subject to horrendous cruelty ters and eerie stories; if only the walls could and maltreatment. He writes that when Cotalk… simo de’ Medici was preparing the venom to The Bargello National Museum with its gothic poison Piero Strozzi, he would experiment it Florentine architecture is an ideal location for a on condemned prisoners of the Bargello first, horror film. Indeed, as one of the oldest build- to ensure desired effects. ings in the city (dating Similarly, Le Murate, a noback to 1255), the Bargello torious Florentine location Prisoners of the Bargello for public housing, restauwas not always a museum. It now holds some of the were subject to horrendous rants, bars and shops and a city’s most precious sculppopular social and cultural cruelty and maltreatment. hub, is in fact another contures and treasures, including works by Donatelverted prison and convent. lo, Michelangelo and Cellini. However, before It began in 1424 as the Santissima Annunziata 1865, the building was the headquarters for alle Murate and Santa Caterina convent, home the Head of the Guards, (the Italian term after to the Benedictine nuns who gave the building which the building is named after, il bargello), its name. whose responsibility it was to arrest, question They were nicknamed le murate (closed up, and condemn criminals. By 1574, the building walled in) as they had chosen to lead a closed, had been transformed into a prison, complete religious life and, previous to living in this with torture chambers. convent, had lived in cells in the walls of the The prison witnessed important historic mo- Rubaconte bridge (now Ponte alle Grazie). ments: sieges, fires and executions such as From 1883 to 1985 Le Murate was transthat of Bernardo di Bandino Baroncelli, con- formed into a male prison, and incarcerated the spirator of the infamous Pazzi plot against the political prisoners and partisans of World War Medici family. It is reported that during an II that were arrested by Nazi fascists.

Ivana Scatola

The ‘Road of Hell’ and other stories Ivana Scatola

You may have noticed that every street name in Florence is either so-called after a certain sacred saint, family name, profession, or otherwise just purposely, ridiculously and unnecessarily long so that you cannot possibly remember it when trying to find somewhere and subsequently get very, very lost. In keeping with the spirit of Halloween, here are some of the more bizarre: VIA DELL'INFERNO (from Via del Purgatorio to Via della Vigna Nuova): ‘Inferno’ literally means ‘hell’, a rather aggressive and discouraging choice of road name – ‘The Road of Hell.’ Does this mean hell abides on this road? In which case, should it be avoided at all costs...? Fortunately not, as instead, the ‘hell’ referred to here was apparently in reference to a winery, and most likely one in competition with another on nearby Via del Purgatoria (‘Road of Purgatory’). There existed a tradition in Florence of giving unflattering names to such taverns and drinking places. By adopting such extreme titles, they were far more likely to be noticed by clients and customers and thus presented more of an exciting exterior than say simply, ‘Florence Wine Tavern.’ Unfortunately, there isn’t a ‘Road of Heaven’ – I’ve looked. PIAZZA DE' PAZZI (from Borgo degli Albizi): Literally meaning ‘Square of the Madmen,’ we have found ourselves yet another attractive location. Pazzino de’ Pazzi is said to have been the first Crusader to climb the walls of Jerusalem in 1099, and he was thereafter appropriately dubbed a madman for his daring actions. The name stuck and the Pazzi family were then made famous for their involvement in the failed 1478 conspiracy against the Medici brothers, which ended disastrously and concluded in the family’s banishment from Florence. The name is also famous as two members of the family are placed in Dante’s Inferno in his Divine Comedy (which was actually written around 200 years before the Medici Conspiracy took place).

The Diner WISHES YOU HAPPY HALLOWEEN

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CELEBRATE THE TRADITIONAL HALLOWEEN PARTY Via de’ Benci, 43/r (Santa Croce area) 055 2344879 E-mail: info@kikuyapub.it

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

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Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

FOOD & WINE

Medieval fast food

Discover lampredotto, the dish that defied Lorenzo de’ Medici’s ban However, such was its popularity that once the Medici lost power, tripe returned in force When living in Florence, most people expect and has secured its place as a Florentine street to be dining on pizza, pasta and gelato from food mainstay ever since. dawn until dusk, but for the culinary adven- In order to fully understand this Florentine turers out there, there is a more unusual Flo- meal, an explanation of what tripe is and how rentine dish that must be sampled: tripe. it is cooked might be useful. Trippa (tripe) is Initially, tripe was a staple food for laborers made from the cow’s pre-stomachs, is soft, and the working classes, and it dates as far white and mostly flavorless. Enjoyed in many back as the fourteenth regions of Italy, it is century. Simple woodcooked in a variety of en street carts served ways. However lampre[T]he smell of tripe cook- dotto is the uniquely losandwiches stuffed with tripe, and this tradition cal Florentine specialty, ing on the streets of continues today, albeit which is made from the Florence was so overin the more sophisticatcow’s fourth stomach, ed kiosks that can be whelming that Lorenzo de’ called the abomasum. found dotted around the The name lampredotto Medici banned the kiosks comes, city. curiously, from According to history, altogether. the Italian word for the smell of tripe cooklamprey eels, lampreda ing on the streets of – once very abundant in Florence was so overwhelming that Loren- the waters of the Arno River – as it resembles zo de’ Medici banned the kiosks altogether. the inside of the mouth of a lamprey in shape Lara May

and color. remains the lampredotto, which is boiled all Tuscan cooks rinse lampredotto well and day long, from 9 a.m. until 9 p.m. boil it with tomatoes, onions, parsley and cel- This specialty attracts a wide variety of cliery for two to three hours. The meat is then ents, with roughly 30 percent of customers being tourists, along served in a Tuscan saltwith a large local fan less bread roll (panino) base and visitors who with salt, pepper, chilli come from as far away oil or salsa verde (green The name lampredotto as Milan specifically for sauce), with the top slice comes, curiously, from the the famous sandwiches. of the roll dunked in the Italian word for lamprey Indeed, Florence conlampredotto stock. sumes approximately For the most authentic eels, lampreda.... 250,000kg of trippa and and delicious experience of tripe, locals rec80,000kg of lampredotommend L’Antico Tripto each year, which indipaio, which has a reputation for making the cates that this historical curiosity is far from best panino con lampredotto in town. Located losing its popularity. in the Piazza dei Cimatori, L’Antico Trippaio It has to be said that these panini are worth tryhas an impressive track record; it has providing. The meat is incredibly tender, if a slightly ed Florentines with high-quality yet afford- disconcerting texture, and it is well-seasoned able street food for more than 80 years. While and dripping in delicious, herby gravy and this kiosk offers a variety of panini, including topped off with salsa verde. It is fair to say a delicious panino con porchetta (pork) for that eating a cow’s stomach is not for everythe less outgoing, its most popular product one, but it is certainly worth giving it a go,

L’angolo dei golosi

and you may be pleasantly surprised! What is more, alongside L’Antico Trippaio is the aptly named L’Angolo dei Golosi – the city’s ‘Greedy Corner’ – run by the same owners. With its wide range of delicious sweets and gelati, L’Angolo can provide the perfect end to a truly authentic Florentine meal – who needs a Big Mac and a McFlurry when medieval fast food is on the menu?

What is the difference between trippa and lampredotto?

Trippa is the soft and flavorless lining of a cow’s pre-stomach, while lampredotto is made from the cow’s fourth stomach, called the abomasum. Rinsed and boiled for several hours and served up on a Tuscan bread roll with chilli oil and salsa verde, lampredotto is the street food most beloved of Florentines.

SPECIALTIES: TRIPPA AND ZAMPA FLORENTINE-STYLE Peposo and stracotto florentine-style

Your one-stop piazza for the sweet and savory tastes in piazza dei cimatori and Piazza san lorenzo Located in the centre of the city in Piazza dei Cimatori, tucked away between the Duomo and Piazza della Signoria, you’ll find ‘L’Angolo dei Golosi’ – the city’s ‘Greedy Corner’ – ready with a selection of on-the-go foods to keep your energy up while you explore the center’s narrow alleys. L’Angolo offers a wide range of delicious gelato flavors, available in the traditional pot or cone, which can also be enjoyed atop a pile of crepes or waffles – perfect for those with a sweet tooth. Hungrier wanderers can tuck into a variety of hot foods, including panini, pizza, hamburgers and hotdogs, at very reasonable prices. Should you fancy a more traditional Italian lunch or snack, L’Antico Trippaio is the perfect place to stop. For more than 80 years, L’Antico Trippaio has provided high-quality yet affordable food for both Florentines and tourists. In true Florentine tradition, the outdoor food cart provides trippa, lampredotto, lesso, poppa, matrice, porchetta, salumi, and wild boar sausages made fresh daily. L’Antico Trippaio is the best place to enjoy excellent panini and focacce like a true local. Just steps from the Duomo, it is one of the most frequented lunch spots in the historic city center.

One of TripAdvisor’s top-ranked Florentine restaurants, Antica Osteria 1 Rosso serves up fresh Tuscan dishes at very reasonable prices, with special lunch offers and discounts to foreign students. Enjoy an assortment of Tuscan cold cuts, fresh hand-made pasta, wild boar ragu, a variety of grilled meats, including Florentine-style specialties, and home-made desserts accompanied by house-made Chianti.

outdoor tables available Piazza dei Cimatori Piazza San Lorenzo 339 74 25 692 www.anticotrippaio.it

Borgo Ognissanti, 1/r 055 26 70 461 anticaosteria1rosso@gmail.com www.anticaosteria1rosso.it

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

FOOD & WINE

Meet Pino: A Florentine institution Taste Chianti Classico at Pozzo Divino

tell you that it is not uncommon for former students to return to their previous hideout years To the well-seasoned student in Florence, later, showing their wives and children where Pino is a man who needs no introduction. He they spent some of the best days of their life. is the proud owner of Salumeria Verdi on Via In fact, Pino fondly recalls serving a sandwich Giuseppe Verdi, a deli and cafe that happily to a former fan 11 years after he had left Floropens its doors to tourists, students and locals. ence. So popular is the venue, however, that the Pino is somewhat humbled by his recognition, owner has attained something of a cult status, and attributes his popularity to treating anyparticularly among the students visiting from body in his cafe “as if they were family”, and America. to his three pillars of serThis is proven by some [I]t is not uncommon for vice – “qualitá, prezzo, of the extraordinary accoglienza” – quality, former students to return price and hospitality. names of the panini (sandwiches), named to their previous hideout Born of a desire by Pino after students who left and his wife Antonella years later, showing their to go one step ahead of a particular impression, such as ‘Mister Talk,’ wives and children where similar vendors by modand ‘Emily’. ernising the standard they spent some of the Another option on the panino and studying flabest days of their life. menu is ‘The Best,’ so vors that go well togethnamed after Pino found er, Salumeria Verdi has tourists and students always entered asking, grown in both size and success since its inau‘’Which one’s the best?’’ guration in the late 1980s. If his reputation may seem to beggar belief, Pi- It employs ingredients from all over Italy, a facno’s stories fully put paid to his legendary sta- tor that is extremely important for its owners, tus; all Stanford students arriving for a semes- who aim to provide tourists with more than ter in Florence will find in their handbook a full just a taste of Florence, with such produce as bio of Pino and his shop, and Pino will proudly pesto from Liguria and cheese from the south.

James Taylor & Ivana Scatola

GASTRONOMIA NEAR SANTA CROCE Salumeria Verdi is a prime spot for quality food. This gastronomia has been serving the Florentine public since 1900, and offers a range of fresh pasta, bread, meat, cheese and more. It’s an ideal spot to stop by for a quick and satisfying lunch, and also offers catering services. Salumeria Verdi is also the sister company of nearby enoteca Pozzo Divino and therefore offers a cornucopia of quality wine selections.

Opening hours: Mon. to Sat.: 8 a.m. – 8p.m.

Via Verdi, 36/r 055 24 45 17 www.salumeriaverdi.it info@pozzodivino.com

This is an element consciously influenced by Pino’s background. Born in Naples, (one of Italy’s regions most coveted for its ingredients), he moved to Turin with his family at the age of six. Like many Italian migrants who travelled north in the ‘60s and ‘70s, the family’s move was propelled by a search of work and opportunities. Pino settled permanently in Florence after meeting Antonella here, and thus this second permanent move was made for love. Today Salumeria Verdi resembles a veritable ‘Tardis’ (for non-fans of Doctor Who that’s a space that seems small from the exterior yet is gigantic inside); stretching to the length of three shops, the original delicatessen has expanded into a panini shop with abundant choice and option to create your own fillings (much like most American equivalents), and boasts space with some 20 tables and chairs. The Salumeria is quite frankly a feast for the eyes (as well as the hungry stomach); the colors and smells emanating from the place are an irresistible mélange that regularly see queues snaking out the door. Whether drawn by hunger pangs, the itch to get creative with panini fillings or simply the desire to drop into a Florentine institution and share a few words of wisdom with the great man himself, Salumeria Verdi is well worth a visit.

Draw deeply from Florence’s ancient wine heritage at the city’s aptly named ‘wine well’, Pozzo Divino, which hosts Chianti Classico tastings in its fourteenth-century wine cellar. According to Tuscan native Galileo Galilei (1564–1642), “Wine is sunlight, held together by water.” He may well have been speaking of Chianti Classico, the veritable original of the Chianti clan, which carves out its territory between Florence and Siena. Since 1924, this production zone covering 14 municipalities has been protected by the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium, founded to protect the integrity of the Chianti Classico label. Chianti is classified into different denominations depending on the area in which it is produced, and in order to qualify for DOCG (controlled and guaranteed denomination of origin) status, strict rules must be adhered to. Chianti Classico wine must contain grapes grown within the production zone and comprise 80–100 percent Sangiovese and up to 20 percent of approved local and international varieties. True Chianti Classico is noted for its ruby-red color, limpidity, floral aroma combined with red fruits, with a harmonious, dry and tannic flavor and a minimum alcohol

RESTAURANT RICCHI ELEGANT DINING IN PIAZZA SANTO SPIRITO Restaurant Ricchi sits elegantly in the center of one of Florence’s most culturally affluent squares, Piazza Santo Spirito. The local setting offers a warm and cozy place to grab either a low-cost lunch or a more sophisticated dinner. Offering taste, art, and culture, Ricchi changes its menu every day for lunch, ranging from various meats to different types of spaghetti and lasagna. Ricchi is also locally renowned for the cooking of its own lunchtime desserts: legendary custard tart plums and cheesecakes. By night the menu varies less as the restaurant boasts its special seafood dishes. Alongside a well-designed and seasonal menu, Ricchi offers the opportunity to enjoy your meal while taking in the artistic atmosphere of Piazza Santo Spirito at one of 20 outdoor tables.

Opening hours: Monday to Saturday Sunday: On the second Sunday of each month, lunch only. Lunch: Midday – 3 p.m. Dinner: 7:30 p.m.–11 p.m. SPECIALTIES: MIXED SEAFOOD PLATTER Pre-booking is advised and easily done on the website Piazza Santo Spirito, 8–9/r 055 28 08 30 info@ricchiristorante.com.com www.ricchiristorante.com

content of 12 percent. Chianti Classico Riserva (Reserve) may exhibit fine and spicy notes and contain a minimum of 12.5 percent alcohol. Chianti wine boasts an ancient history: the Etruscans of the region were noted for their wine cultivation more than 2500 years ago, and historians believe that they even experimented with grafting and hybrid techniques. According to legend, the so-called Gallo Nero or black rooster became a symbol of the Chianti region after a horse race was organized by the two rival republics of Siena and Florence to decide their official borders. A cockcrow was established as the departure signal for the two horsemen in their respective cities; however Florence tricked Siena by starving its black rooster so that it began crowing before sunrise, enabling the Florentine rider to set off well in advance of his Sienese rival. The Florentine met his opponent a mere 12 kilometers from Siena, thereby winning the Chianti region for Florence. The Gallo Nero became a symbol of the League of Chianti in the Middle Ages and is now recognised as the official mark of Chianti Classico Wine Consortium, one of the most renowned wine brands in the world.

CELLAR WINE-TASTING NEAR SANTA CROCE There are few places more apt to sample Tuscan wine than Pozzo Divino (‘The Wine Well’), where wine-tastings take place in a spectacular cellar dating back to 1312. The cellar features an ancient pozzo (well), while the quality of the niche wine hand-picked by owner Pino easily justifies an interpretation of ‘divine’ in this cosy enoteca’s title. Pozzo Divino also arranges Chianti Classico wine tours and sells olive oil and a superb range of balsamic vinegar aged up to 45 years.

Opening hours: Mon. to Sat.: 9.30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m.; & 2 – 6:30 p.m.

Sun.: Wine-tasting by appointment (minimum 10 people) Via Ghibellina, 144/r 055 24 66 907 info@pozzodivino.com www.pozzodivino.eu

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

FASHION

The art of Florentine Florentine costume designer bigiotteria costume jewelry Tosi to receive career Oscar

Juliet Stephenson

Bigiotteria has been around since Ancient Egypt. It developed out of the need to meet the demand for jewelry when materials were costly or scarce, and artisans turned to glass and other materials to imitate precious or coveted stones such as lapis lazuli. However, such was the exquisiteness of the imitation that Egyptian glass jewelry became a recognised art form of its own. The Etruscans took up the trend, importing glass beads from Phoenician and Syrian traders, and eventually produced their own glass beads and faience (glazed ceramic) in Italy. During the Renaissance, however, the production of imitation jewelry came under fire: in Venice the false pearl trade so threatened the genuine one that production became illegal, punishable by a 10-year exile and the loss of a charlatan pearl-maker’s right hand. Things took a turn during the Victorian period when costume jewelry began to be made by machines in order to speed up production. The invention of electroplating revolutionized the way costume jewelry was manufactured, as it made the whole process much faster and more cost-effective. Costume jewelry came back full swing in the 1930s when the Great Depression hit. New materials were mixed with old to create attractive and economical pieces. The most commonly used plastic was bakelite, commonly used in electrical insulators. Aluminum was also widely used because it was light and inexpensive. Glass was utilized to imitate real gems and, since the imitation gems were cheaper, they were often over-sized. Due to the accessibility and inexpensiveness of such jewelry, women would often save their ‘real’ jewelry for special occasions, and once again costume jewelry came into its own as an attractive choice rather than merely an imitation

UNIQUE AND AFFORDABLE ARTISAN GIFTS Brass, copper, silver, buttons, stones, mother-of-pearl, freshwater pearls, beads, crystals, and twisted or frayed fabrics. You can find all this and more at L’Oro Fuggia, a tiny and unconventional artisan shop located near Santa Croce. The jewels and the handcrafted arte povera objects produced here are unique, while the shop’s affordable prices make it an ideal solution for bringing a piece of Florentine craftsmanship tradition back home.

of the real thing. The tradition of bigiotteria has come full circle as a handmade art form that continues today in Florence. At L’Oro Fuggia visitors can discover the tradition of arte povera, where owners Leonardo Bertucci and Leonora Moschitta create singular and colourful works of art using a variety of materials, including brass, copper, silver, freshwater pearls, crystals and fabric at their workshop near Santa Croce. The most frequently uttered comment by visitors is, “It’s different!”, a fact that greatly satisfies Bertucci, whose inspiration is to create unique artisan pieces that are simply not found anywhere else. Alvise Giustinian draws on the Venetian glassmaking tradition to produce bracelets, earrings and necklaces as well as exquisite glassware and Venetian masks. The company is named after a Venetian doge and has been in operation since the 1970s, expanding to include a Florence storefront in the ‘80s. Supplied by various Murano workshops, Alvise Giustinian offers visitors the opportunity to enjoy the authentic Venetian bigiotteria tradition in the heart of Florence near Santa Croce.

Florentine native Piero Tosi has been selected to receive an Honorary Governors Award by the Academy of Motion Pictures Arts and Sciences in recognition of his contribution to costume design in film. Tosi, 86, was nominated for five Oscars between 1964 and 1983 and is best known for his collaborations with Italian director Luchino Visconti on such films as Death in Venice, Rocco and His Brothers and The Leopard, as well as his work on Zeffirelli’s La Traviata and Pasolini’s Medea, starring Maria Callas. Several of Tosi’s costume designs are on exhibition at the Costume Gallery at Palazzo Pitti, including those used for Medea. “Mr Tosi’s influence is legendary,” Academy president Cheryl Boone Isaacs said. “It also allows us to get out there his major contributions because with something like costume design, not many people focus on what a creative aspect and contribution costume designers have through the process of a motion picture.” Honorary awards are given for lifetime achievements, ex-

ceptional contributions to motion picture arts and sciences, and outstanding service to the Academy. Fellow recipients of the Honorary Governors Award include Angela Lansbury and Steve Martin, while Angelina Jolie will be awarded the Jean Hersholt Humanitarian Award at the ceremony. The award ceremony takes place on November 6 at the Grand Ballroom at Hollywood and Highland.

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Garbage’en concept store is the brainchild of three young women seeking to carve out a space in the complicated world of fashion. In our store you’ll find collections by young Italian designers that you won’t easily find elsewhere, crafted in detail to ensure superb quality and design. We host a constant stream of different and innovative products, with new arrivals every week.

BIGIOTTERIA SHOPS IN FLORENCE L'Oro Fuggia

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jewels in murano glass: art & gifts in venetian glass near santa croce Named after a Venetian Doge, Alvise Giustinian has been providing top-quality Venetian glass products since the ‘70s. Its link with Murano workshops presents an excellent opportunity to find artisan crafts from that romantic city, Venice, right here in Florence – just a few steps from Santa Croce. Choose from a fabulous selection of artisan masks and glasswork: from bracelets, earrings and necklaces to decorative items – they make the perfect gifts and with this voucher you can get a 10 percent discount on products.

Opening hours: Tuesday to Friday: 9 a.m.– 6 p.m. Saturday: 9 a.m.– 7 p.m. Via dell’Agnolo, 75/r 339 54 00 072 lamouche@fastwebnet.it ebay: lorofuggia2012

The Costume Gallery at Palazzo Pitti features fashion throughout history, with 6000 items on rotation every two months. The collection includes costumes designed by famous Italian designers, including Piero Tosi’s costumes from such classic films as Death in Venice and The Leopard, theater costumes belonging to famous costume house Sartoria Tirelli, and dresses worn by sixteenth-century duchess of Florence Eleonora di Toledo.

Corso Tintori, 19/r, Firenze 055 24 66 295 www.alvisegiustinian.com info@alvisegiustinian.com

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www.florencenewsevents.com October 2013, No.2 DINING OUT

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TUSCAN & ITALIAN CUISINE

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(C4) DA QUE’ GANZI Via Ghibellina, 70/r 055 22 60 010 www.daqueiganzi.it (B3) LORENZO DE’ MEDICI RESTURANT & PIZZERIA Via del Giglio, 49 055 21 29 32 www.lorenzodemediciristorante.com

(B4) THE OIL SHOPPE Via Sant’ Egidio, 22/r 347 11 88 056

(C4) SALAMANCA Via Ghibellina, 80/r 055 23 45 452 www.salamanca.it

NIgHtLIFE

(D2) OSTERIA SANTO SPIRITO Via Santo Spirito, 16 055 23 82 383 www.osteriasantospirito.it

(C4) THE DINER Via dell’Acqua 2 Tel: 055 29 07 48 www.theflorencediner.com

(C3) PIZZERIA O’ VESUVIO Via dei Cimatori, 21/r 055 28 54 87 www.ovesuviofirenze.com

SNACKS (C3) L’ANTICO TRIPPAIO Piazza dei Cimatori & Piazza San Lorenzo 339 74 25 692 www.anticotrippaio.com

(D2) RICCHI RESTAURANT Piazza Santo Spirito, 8–9/r 055 28 08 30 www.ricchiristorante.com (*) VINANDRO Piazza Mino da Fiesole, 33 (Fiesole) 055 59 121

(C4) MR. PIZZA Via Pietrapiana, 82 Pizza Duomo, 5/r Tel: 055 38 60 311

APERITIVO BARS (D2) CABIRIA LOUNGE BAR Piazza Santo Spirito, 4/r 055215732 www.cafecabiria.com (D4) GALLERY CAFÉ ART BAR Via de’ Benci, 30/r 055 22 60 204 (C5) KITSCH Viale Gramsci, 5/r 055 23 43 890 www.kitschfirenze.com (A3) KITSCH DEUX Via San Gallo, 22/r

328 90 39 289 www.kitschdeux.com

PUBS

(C2) SAN CARLO Borgo Ognissanti, 32-34/r 055 21 68 79

(D4) BEER HOUSE CLUB Corso dei Tintori, 34/r 055 24 76 763 www.beerhouseclub.it

(D4) MOYO Via dei Benci, 23/r 055 24 79 738 www.moyo.it

(B3) DUBLIN PUB Via Faenza, 27 055 27 41 571 www.dublinpub.it

(C2) ONE-EYED JACK Piazza Nazario Sauro, 2/r 055 09 44 561 www.thejackpub.com

(A3) FINNEGAN IRISH PUB Via San Gallo, 123/r 055 49 07 94 www.finneganpub.com

(D2) PITTA M’INGOLLI Piazza Santo Spirito, 17/r 055 26 42 56

(D4) KIKUYA PUB Via dei Benci, 43/r 055 23 44 879 www.kikuyapub.it/en

CLUBS (C3) MAYDAY CLUB Via Dante Alighieri, 16 055 23 81 290 www.maydayclub.it

(a2) MOSTODOLCE CRAFT BREWERY Via Nazionale, 114/r 055 23 02 928 www.mostodolce.it

(D4) RED GARTER Via de’ Benci, 33 055 24 80 909 www.redgarter-florence.com

(b2) THE FIDDLER’S ELBOW P.za Santa Maria Novella, 7/r 055 21 50 56

(C4) TWICE CLUB Via G. Verdi, 57/r 055 24 76 356 www.twiceclub.com

FLORENCENEWSEVENTS

Lorenzo de’ Medici Lorenzo de’ Medici Restaurant and Pizzeria is an elegant yet reasonably priced spot situated right in the heart of Florence, just a few steps away from the Medici Chapel, the church of Santa Maria Novella and San Lorenzo market, and no more than 200m from the Fortezza da Basso. The restaurant seats 250 people at a time, has wheelchair access, five restrooms and two exits for the comfort of its clients. It is the ideal place to try traditional Florentine dishes or pizza cooked in the wood-fired oven. The perfect place for tourist groups, business dinners, meetings or private dining.

Restaurant & Pizzeria Maxi-screens showing Sky sports (football & NRL Super Bowl)

20% discount for students Large indoor rooms Outdoor seating

Tel. 055 21 29 32 // Via del Giglio, 49 www.lorenzodemediciristorante.com

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

CITY GUIDE TOURIST INFORMATION

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

RELIGIOUS SITES

Firenze Turismo 055 29 08 32/055 29 08 33 Via Cavour, 1/r Mon–Sat: 8:30 a.m.–6:30 p.m. (Closed on Sundays and public holidays; see Commune info points below for Sunday hours.) info1@firenzeturismo.it www.firenzeturismo.it 055 31 58 74

(A4) Accademia Gallery* (B2) Alinari National Photography Museum* (C3) Bargello National Museum* (B3) Bigallo Museum* (B3) Cathedral Museum (Museo dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore)* (D2) Costume Gallery (Palazzo Pitti)* (C3) Dante House Museum* (D3) Galileo Museum * (D4) Horne Foundation Museum * (B5) Jewish Museum* (C4) Michelangelo’s House (Casa Buonarroti)* (B4) MUDI Children’s Museum (C4) Museum & Florentine Institute of Prehistory

(B3) Baptistry of San Giovanni* (D1) Brancacci Chapel* (B3) Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (Duomo) (C3) ‘Dante’s church’ (Santa Margherita de’ Cerchi) (B5) Jewish Synagogue* (B3) Medici Chapel* (B2) Ognissanti (B3) San Lorenzo (A4) San Marco* (D4) Santa Croce* (D3) Santa Felicità (B2) Santa Maria Novella* (A4) Santissima Annunziata (D2) Santo Spirito

Florence Airport Via del Termine, 1 Daily: 8:30 a.m.–8:30 p.m. infoaeroporto@firenzeturismo.it

055 21 22 45

Commune Piazza Stazione, 4 Mon–Sat: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m. Sundays & public holidays: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. turismo3@comune.fi.it www.comune.fi.it 055 28 84 96 Bigallo loggia Piazza San Giovanni Mon–Sat: 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Sundays & public holidays: 9 a.m.–2 p.m. bigallo@comune.fi.it

EMERGENCY SERVICES Police – emergency Police – carabinieri Police – municipal Ambulance Fire department Tourist medical service Poison Center (24-hour service) Pharmacies (open) Vehicle breakdown (ACI) Obstruction, theft & towed vehicles Civil protection services Child abuse hotline Emergency vet services Environmental emergency response Lost & Found (Florence office)

113 112 055 32 83 333 118 115 055 21 22 21 055 79 47 819 800 42 07 07 116 055 42 24 142 800 01 5 161 114 055 72 23 683 1515 055 33 48 02

TRANSPORT BUS & COACH ATAF (www.ataf.net) BluBlus (Copit and Lazzi) (www.blubus.it) SITA Nord (www.fsbusitalia.it) CAP (www.capautolinee.it) Vaibus (www.vaibus.com)

TRAIN

800 42 45 00 800 27 78 25 800 37 37 60 055 21 46 37 058 35 87 897

Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.com) Italo (www.italotreno.it/en)

TAXI

89 20 21 06 07 08

Museum of Natural History sections: – (C4) Anthropology & Ethnology* – (A4) Geology & Paleontology* – (A4) Minerology & Lithology* – (E2) Zoology ‘La Specola’* (A4) National Archaeological Museum* (C3) Orsanmichele* (D2) Palatine Gallery (Palazzo Pitti)* (C3) Palazzo Davanzati* (B3) Palazzo Medici-Riccardi* (D2) Palazzo Pitti* (C2) Palazzo Strozzi* (C3) Palazzo Vecchio* (D2) Porcelain Museum* (A4) Science & Technical Foundation* (D3) Uffizi Gallery* (D3) Vasari Corridor

KEY SITES (E3) Forte Belvedere (B3) Giotto’s bell tower (campanile)* (C3) Piazza della Repubblica (C3) Piazza della Signoria (E4) Piazzale Michelangelo (B3) Piazza San Giovanni (D3) Ponte Vecchio (A1) S.M.N. train station

GARDENS (E2) Boboli Gardens* (A4) Botanic Gardens* (E4) Rose Gardens

055 42 42

Daily: 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m.

(*) included in the FIRENZE CARD. See www.firenzecard.it for more information.

MARKETS (C4) Antiques Borgo Allegri – Via dell’Agnolo – Piazza dei Ciompi – Via Martiri del Popolo Last Sunday of each month (except July): 8:30 a.m.– 7:30 p.m. (A3) Central Market Fresh produce, local and Italian food products. Via dell’Ariento Mon–Fri: 7 a.m.– 2 p.m. ; Sat: 7 a.m.–5 p.m. July and August: Mon–Sat: 7 a.m.–2 p.m. Cascine Park Food products, clothing, antiques and homewares. Viale Lincoln – Viale Lecci – Piazzale J. F. Kennedy Every Tues: 8 a.m.–2 p.m. (C4) FLEA MARKET Piazza dei Ciompi Daily: 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m.

(C5) SANT’AMBROGIO Fresh produce, flowers, clothes and homewares. Piazza Ghiberti Indoor market: Mon, Tues & Thurs: 7:30 a.m.– 2 p.m.; Wed & Fri: 7:30 a.m.– 7 p.m.; Sat: 7:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Outdoor market: Mon–Sat: 8 a.m.–2 p.m. (D2) SANTO SPIRITO Piazza Santo Spirito Fresh produce: Mon–Sat: 8 a.m.–2 p.m. Handicrafts & antiques: 2nd Sunday of each month (except July & Aug): 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Organic produce: 3rd Sun of each month (except Aug): 9 a.m.–7 p.m.

SHUTTLE SERVICE TO FLORENCE AIRPORT From Florence S.M.N. train station to Florence Airport (Peretola): Every hour and half-hour from 5:30 a.m. till 11 p.m. Bus stop located outside train station near taxi stand. From Florence Airport to Florence S.M.N train station: Every hour and half-hour from 6 a.m. till 11.30 p.m. ‘Vola in Bus’ ATAF/SITA service 800 42 45 00 www.ataf.net Florence Airport (Peretola) 055 30 61 300 www.aeroporto.firenze.it/en Pisa International Airport (Galileo Galilei) 050 84 93 00 www.pisa-airport.com

LEGEND

(C3) FLOWERS & PLANTS Via Pellicceria (under the loggia) Every Thurs (except public holidays): 8 a.m.–2 p.m.

Tourist information

(C3) PORCELLINO Clothing, textiles, Florentine straw products, leather and souvenirs. Piazza del Mercato Nuovo, Via Porta Rossa Daily: 9 a.m.– 7:30 p.m.

Parking

(B3) SAN LORENZO Leather goods (bags, shoes, clothing) and souvenirs. Piazza San Lorenzo and neighboring streets

Hospital

Train Station Urban buses - Info and ticket office suburban buses central post offices PUBLIC TOILETS

Enoteca de'Macci Cocktails & Aperitivo near Santa Croce

First Diner in Florence Since 2004

Bistro, Wine AND Cocktails at Borgo Ognissanti

A COMPLETE €10 MEAL IN SANT’AMBROGIO

Located in the Santa Croce area, Moyo is one of the most frequented bars in the city. The simple and elegant design, deep lighting and free Wi-Fi make the bar ideal for a relaxing work environment or an evening get-together. Lunch offers a range of first and second courses, sides, salads, hamburgers, omelettes, sandwiches, small pizzas and desserts. The aperitivo buffet, from 6:30p.m. to 10p.m., includes numerous courses on a large wooden table at the entrance. After 10p.m., the room is left for the American bar, with various cocktails and a list of both Italian and foreign wines updated monthly.

Located on a small street near the Palazzo Vecchio, The Diner boasts an authentic American atmosphere and menu, offering such non-Italian staples as pancakes, hamburgers, fries and milkshakes. Whether you are looking to try American food for the first time or simply craving a taste of the homeland, The Diner has something delicious and hearty to offer for breakfast, brunch, lunch or dinner.

San Carlo bar offers continental and American breakfast and brunch, simple but refined lunch, a large aperitivo buffet, and an extensive wine and cocktail list. Music and art create a warm, lively atmosphere while friendly staff members are always ready to cater to any requests. San Carlo is a bar suited to any time of day: great for a quick coffee or snack, a leisurely aperitivo or meal, or simply an after-dinner drink with friends.

Enoteca de’ Macci is a lively bar located in one of Florence’s nightly hotspots. Guests are offered a diverse selection of local specialties, fine wines and exotic cocktails while listening to relaxing lounge music. The menu includes an international breakfast with rich buffet (€4.50 or €3.50 for students), lunch (€4.90 for first course, €5.90 for second course or complete meal for €10), as well as happy-hour specials for €3.50. Enjoy music and cocktails until 2 a.m. with live music between 9–11 p.m.

Via dell’ Acqua, 2 055 29 07 48 www.theflorencediner.com

Borgo Ognissanti, 32-34/r 055 21 68 79 www.sancarlofirenze.it

Via de’ Benci, 23/r 055 24 79 738 info@moyo.it www.moyo.it

Via de’ Macci, 92/r (corner Via Mino 4–6–8/r) 338 88 46 455 (Matteo) 328 96 72 241 (Marco)

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

CITY GUIDE

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SO F T D R I N K RO CCO ONE-STOP SHOP FOR DRINKS AND MORE ON VIA DE’ NERI

Home delivered and poured wine in S. Spirito

Whether you want an iced coffee or a bottle of wine, a beer and crisps or a refreshing soda, Soft Drink Rocco has got you covered. It has everything that you could need on a moment’s notice, selling a wide variety of alcohol, soft drinks and foodstuffs. Snugly settled on Via de’ Neri, if you find yourself in the Santa Croce area and in need of a cold drink on a hot day, or anything for that little gathering of friends you’re having, give them a visit.

Bring your bottle to be filled for less than €1.50, straight from the barrels of Il Santo Vino. Here patrons can choose from a wide range of Italian wine in bottles or barrels sourced throughout Tuscany and Italy, as well as spirits and digestives. Il Santo Vino also provides a home-delivery service alongside selected local specialty and organic products, such as truffled goods, honey, jam, coffee and a variety of Sicilian spreads.

Via de’ Neri, 16/r Santa Croce 389 02 50 515 roccosal@hotmail.it

Opening hours: Monday: 4–9 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday: 10 a.m.–2 p.m.; 4–9 p.m. Borgo Tegolaio, 46/r 055 53 87 122 or 345 90 93 425 www.ilsantovino.jimdo.com mariella.croda@yahoo.it Skype: ilsantovino

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

CITY GUIDE TRAVEL & TOURS

055 23 44 142 www.tuscanwineschool.com

(c4) BUS2ALPS Via Ghibellina, 97/r Skype: Bus2alps www.bus2alps.com

HEALTH & BEAUTY (C5) ALCHIMIA Via dell’Agnolo, 47-49-51/r 055 24 16 04 www.alchimia-hairdesign.com

(A2) FUN IN TUSCANY Via Fiume, 20 338 59 22 682 www.funintuscany.com (C4) WHEN IN FLORENCE Via Verdi, 46/r 055 38 60 864

SERVICES (c4) CARATELLO SHIPPING SOLUTIONS Via dell’Agnolo, 115/r 055 01 18 470 www.caratello.net (c4) WHEN IN FLORENCE STUDENT SERVICES Via Verdi, 46/r 055 386 08 64 www.wheninflorence.com (c4) TIM Via Verdi, 46/r 055 23 44 407 www.tim.it

(D4) TONO SU TONO Via dei Benci, 37/r 055 23 44 885

GELATO

(B3) GIOTTO’S BELL TOWER* Piazza del Duomo 055 23 02 885 Daily: 8:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; January 6: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. Closed Jan 1, Easter, Sept 8 & Dec 25. Note: 414 stairs by foot only, no lift

(E2) IL SANTO VINO Borgo Tegolaio, 46/r 055 53 87 122

(C4) POZZO DIVINO Via Ghibellina, 144/r 055 24 66 907 www.pozzodivino.eu

(d2) GELATERIA DELLA PASSERA Piazza della Passera, 15 055 29 18 82

(D3) VASARI CORRIDOR Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 055 29 48 83 Available to private groups only: contact Uffizi Gallery for information.

POPULAR SITES

MUSEUMS

(B3) BAPTISTRY OF SAN GIOVANNI* Piazza San Giovanni 055 23 02 885 Mon–Sat: 11:15 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sun and 1st Sat of every month: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. July 4– Sept 28: Thurs–Sat: 11:15 a.m.–11 p.m. Easter Week (Thurs, Fri, Sat before Easter & Easter Mon), April 25 & May 1: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sunday, Sept 8, Dec 24 & 25.

(A4) ACCADEMIA GALLERY* Via Ricasoli, 58/60 055 23 88 612 Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. Closed Mon, Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25.

(E2) BOBOLI GARDENS* 055 23 88 786 March Daily: 8:15 a.m.–5:30 p.m. (6:30 p.m. with daylight saving) April–May & Sept–Oct Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. (5:30 p.m. with standard time) June–Aug Daily: 8:15 a.m.–7:30 p.m. Nov–Feb Daily: 8:15 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Closed 1st and last Mon of each month; Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25.

(C3) BARGELLO NATIONAL MUSEUM* Via del Proconsolo, 4 055 23 88 606 Daily: 8:15 a.m.–1.50 p.m. Closed 1st, 3rd & 5th Sun and 2nd & 4th Mon of each month; Jan 1 & Dec 25.

(c3) L’ANGOLO DEI GOLOSI Piazza dei Cimatori (d4) PERCHE’ NO Via Tavolini, 19/r 055 23 98 969

SHOPPING

(*) CELONI TENNIS INSTRUCTOR 348 06 57 769 celoni.iuri@alice.it

(D4) ALVISE GIUSTINIAN Corso dei Tintori, 19/r 055 24 66 295 www.alvisegiustinian.com

(D2) IN TAVOLA COOKING COURSES Via dei Velluti, 18 055 21 76 72 www.intavola.org

(b3) CERAMICA FIORENTINA B.C. Via del Melarancio, 15/r 055 23 96 979 www.ceramicaartisticafiorentina.com

(d3) TUSCAN WINE SCHOOL Via dei Bardi, 23/r

WINE

(d4) GELATERIA DE’ NERI Via de’ Neri, 20-22/r 055 21 00 34

(*) IL GIGANTE ADVENTURE PARK Via Fiorentina, 276, Vaglia 320 32 61 243 www.parcoavventurailgigante.it

(D3) 19 R Via dei Bardi, 19/r 339 19 70 902 19ryogapilates.com

Sat before Easter; Easter; June 24; Aug 15; Sept 8; Nov 1; Dec 8; Mon & Tues of the first week of Advent; Dec 25 & 26. Note: 463 stairs by foot only, no lift.

(E2) MILLESIMI Borgo Tegolaio, 33/r 055 26 54 675

ENTERTAINMENT

CLASSES & COURSES

(C3) GARBAGE’EN Via dei Cimatori, 2/r 055 26 70 505 www.garbageen.com

(c3) Data records Via dei neri, 15 055 28 75 92

(B3) CATHEDRAL CUPOLA* Piazza del Duomo 055 23 02 885 Mon–Fri: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sat: 8:30 a.m.–5:40 p.m. Closed Sun; Jan 1; Jan 6; Thurs–Fri–

LE CARCERI RESTAURANT, PIZZERIA AND WINE BAR NEAR SANT’AMBROGIO

(B3) PALAZZO MEDICI-RICCARDI* Via Cavour, 3 055 27 60 340 Mon–Tues & Thurs–Sun: 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Closed Wed.

(B3) CATHEDRAL MUSEUM (Museo dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore)* Piazza del Duomo, 9 055 23 02 885 Mon–Sat: 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; Sun: 9 a.m.–1:45 p.m. Closed Jan 1, Easter, Sept 8 & Dec 25.

(C3) DANTE HOUSE MUSEUM * Via Santa Margherita, 1 055 21 94 16 April–Sept Daily: 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Oct–March Tues–Sun: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed Mon (Oct 1–March 31), Dec 24 & 25. (D3) GALILEO MUSEUM * Piazza dei Giudici, 1 055 26 53 11 Mon & Wed–Sun: 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m.; Tues: 9:30 a.m.–1 p.m. Closed Jan 1 & Dec 25. (B5) JEWISH MUSEUM * Via Farini, 6 055 23 46 654 June–Sept: Mon–Thurs & Sun: 10 a.m.–6:30 p.m.; Fri: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Oct–May: Mon–Thurs & Sun: 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m.; Fri: 10 a.m.–3 p.m. Closed Sat, Jan 1, Dec 25 & Jewish holidays. (C4 )MICHELANGELO’S HOUSE (Casa Buonarroti)* Via Ghibellina, 70 055 24 17 52 Mon & Wed–Sun: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed Tues, Jan 1, Easter & Dec 25. (A4) NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM* Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 9b 055 23 57 720 / 23 575 Tues–Fri: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m. Sat–Mon: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. Closed Jan 1 & Dec 25. (C3) PALAZZO DAVANZATI * Via Porta Rossa, 13 055 23 88 610 Daily: 8:15–1:30 p.m. Closed 2nd & 4th Sun, and 1st, 3rd & 5th Mon of the month; Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. (E2) PALAZZO PITTI* Piazza Pitti, 1 Palatine Gallery 055 23 88 614 Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. Roy-

KITSCH DEUX 25-COURSE APERITIVO NEAR SAN MARCO

Le Carceri is located in the old Carcere delle Murate, which was a cloistered convent until the 19th century when it became Florence’s city prison. Le Carceri is located in the prison’s former registry offices, where the site’s eclectic history can be traced via original prison graffiti and frescoed ceilings from the 17th century. The restaurant offers Tuscan and Italian specialties, wood-fired pizza, an extensive wine list and a choice of artisan beer. Ideal for intimate evenings in a beautiful surroundings throughout the year, summer also sees the introduction of an aperitivo buffet accompanied by music each Wednesday.

Kitsch undoubtedly offers one of the most lavish aperitivo buffets in Florence. Its buzzing, eclectic vibe, comfy seating and moody lighting would be enough to lure any aperitivo-seeker – and yet here is where Kitsch literally takes the cake. With a generous selection of first and second courses – including Tuscan specialties and several vegetarian dishes – sides, salads and desserts all for the price of a drink, patrons needn’t look further for the rest of the evening. Add a DJ set and wi-fi internet, and it’s clear why this is one of the most popular spots in Florence to hang out.

Opening hours: Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Open daily till late. Aperitivo from 6:30 p.m. – 10 p.m.

Piazza Madonna della Neve, 3 055 24 79 327 www.ristorantelecarceri.it info@ristorantelecarceri.it

Via San Gallo, 22/r 328 90 39 289 www.kitschdeux.com info@kitsch.it

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

Discover Fiesole’s Indian heritage

Edoardo Castorina brings the taste of India to Italy Lara May

In the land of pizza and pasta, where you will be hard-pressed to find something that isn’t topped with cheese of some description, occasionally we all long for something just a little different. High up in the ancient town of Fiesole, with sweeping panoramic views of the Tuscan countryside, Ristorante India might be just the getaway you need. If you’re looking to spice up your tastebuds (quite literally!), then this may well be the perfect spot to do it in. Not only does this Fiesole establishment produce delicious and different dishes, it also has a captivating history. Co-founded by Edoardo Castorina and Surinder Kumar Dogra, the restaurant opened in the early ‘90s as one of the very first in Italy to serve Indian food. The move was inspired by Edoardo’s love of the country and particular fascination with Buddha, and Surinder’s pride in his native traditions after more than half a century in Italy. Wanting to provide the very best to his diners, Edoardo made the decision to bring talented chefs over from India to Fiesole and spent time seeking them out in upmarket hotels and restaurants. However, he soon found that finding expert chefs was only part of the battle, as Italy provided so few of the ingredients he needed. So, in the beginning, Edoardo travelled to London and Paris to source the very best spices and ingredients in order to ensure

that the food he served was as delicious and authentic as possible. Fortunately, high-quality spices have since become more readily available in Italy, and he now only has to go as far as Milan or Rome to find what he needs. Initially, the restaurant was something completely new to the Italian community. Locals were intrigued, not only by the restaurant’s very different flavors and styles of cooking but also by the Indian chefs, as many of them had never seen a turban before. The interior of the restaurant is also unlike anything that had existed before in the region. Painted a vivid terracotta color dotted with fairy lights, it sports an Indian-style mural on the ceiling, imported Indian furniture and even a fully functioning rickshaw. A delicious scent of mingled spices permeates the air, auguring well for growling stomachs. This tactile and welcoming atmosphere is in line with Edoardo’s vision of enabling patrons to experience India with all five senses and enjoy every aspect of the meal. Edoardo’s vision is not just about food but also about the mind and the spirit. For this reason he regularly entertains speakers from the Terra di Buddha Society, and hosts talks on shamanism and reflexology. This unique approach seems to have served him well. He has been successful from the very beginning of his enterprise and has even opened a restaurant in Bologna, although he has now sold this on and remains based in Fiesole.

A final remarkable characteristic of Ristorante India is that, in line with Edoardo’s philosophy, it frequently holds fundraising dinners where all profits go to charity. This initiative recently raised €2000 for young impoverished Indians. And in tribute to India’s favorite sport, the restaurant sponsors Fiorentina Cricket Club, Florence’s only club of its kind. All in all, this is not your typical Indian restaurant.

RISTORANTE INDIA

Fiesole’s free walking tours The city of Fiesole hosts a range of free walking tours on Sunday mornings throughout October as part of its ‘Between Nature and Culture’ series. ‘Montecerceri Park and its Quarries’ runs until October 6 and takes visitors to Montecerceri, famous for its pietra serena quarries and the site of one of science’s most important experiments, where Leonardo da Vinci tried (and failed) to understand human flight in 1506. Meeting place: Piazza Mino, in front of the Town Hall, at 9 a.m. Take bus no. 7 from Piazza San Marco. ‘Looking over the River Arno from Fiesole’ runs until October 13 and takes participants on a stroll along the banks of the Arno to the historic fulling mill at Girone and up to Borgo di Settingnano to Villa Gamberaia. Meeting place: ATAF bus stop Piazza S. Pertini at 9 a.m. Take bus no. 14A from SMN station. ‘Villa Peyron and Fontelucente Wood’ takes

FIESOLE

place until October 20, a route that traces the ancient streets of Fiesole and winds through the Tuscan countryside until it reaches the garden of Villa Peyron. Meeting place: Piazza Mino, in front of the Town Hall, at 9 a.m. Take bus no. 7 from Piazza San Marco. ‘Via Vecchia Fiesolana: History and Art’, until October 27, takes visitors to the church and monastery of San Domenico and Fiesole’s first cathedral, the Badia Fiesolana, before climbing up towards Fiesole through a landscape of famous villas. Meeting place: Piazza Mino, in front of the Town Hall, at 9 a.m. Take bus no. 7 from Piazza San Marco. Tours are led by experienced hikers and take place from 9 a.m.–12 noon on the Sunday mornings advertised. Attendance is free but must be booked by 12 noon on the Friday before each walk on one of the following telephone numbers: 055 59 61 311 / 055 59 61 323 / 055 59 61 256.

Leonardo’s first flight attempt on exhibition in Washington For a Florentine scientist aspiring to understand the principles of flight, what better place to conduct an experiment than the conveniently located hills of Fiesole? This is precisely what Leonardo da Vinci set out to do in the early years of the sixteenth century. In 1501 Leonardo announced his intention to attempt human flight from Montececeri, a hill near Fiesole where he owned an olive grove, and in 1506 he conducted his first experiment – and failed. Luckily for posterity Leonardo didn’t play the guinea pig: according to legend that unfortunate role fell to one of his students, Tommaso Masini, who broke a leg as a result. More than 500 years later, Leonardo’s Codex on the Flight of Birds recording the failed attempt is on display at Smithsonian’s National Air and Space Museum in Washington on a rare trip outside Italy.

The notebook is on loan from Turin’s Royal Library until October 22 and includes the famous artist’s study of birds and his descriptions of how humans could one day fly. His drawings and theories pre-empted many modern aeronautical ideas that form the foundation of flight principles today. “Just imagine, 500 years ago, where he had no tools, no mathematical equations that we have now, no wind tunnels,” said Charles Elachi, director of NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory. “He basically was able, just by observation, to come up with a lot of the theories of what we do now.”The fragile notebook is on display in a sealed case but interactive stations at the museum allow visitors to browse the codex’s 18 pages of Leonardo’s famous mirror script and some rather more surprising additions, such as philosophical musings on lying and even a shopping list.

VINANDRO RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR

RENOWNED INDIAN CUISINE IN FIESOLE

TUSCAN TRADITION SINCE 1074

Lauded by various international guides as one of the best Indian restaurants in Europe, Ristorante India brings the spice and color of India to Tuscany. Rich hues, traditional furniture and detailed woodwork by a master Indian carpenter create an atmospheric environment in which to enjoy Ristorante India’s extensive menu. Dishes are drawn from Mughlai cuisine, typical of North India, and distinctive Indian Tandoori. To get from Florence to Fiesole, take bus no. 7 from Piazza San Marco. Private hall available for reservations.

Located in Fiesole’s central piazza, Vinandro derives its name from Florence’s first tavern, which opened in 1074. The restaurant and wine bar is known for its charm and flavors reminiscent of a bygone era. Its rich, warm ambience is enhanced with a marble bar, vintage lamp and wooden tables. Vinandro practises the Slow Food philosophy, offering traditional Tuscan dishes made from fresh local products and carefully selected wine. Enjoy a selection of local cheese and salami; pasta crafted in-house; grilled specialties, including the coveted Florentine steak; and home-made desserts, including cakes, pastries and semifreddi, and a range of sweet wines and liquors. Vinandro is open every day for lunch and dinner, and also offers dinner by candlelight for romantic evenings.

Closed on Tuesdays. SPECIAL OFFERS FOR STUDENTS Vegetarian menu: €15, no cover charge, one drink included Non-vegetarian menu: €17, no cover charge, one drink included. Via Gramsci, 43/a, Fiesole 055 59 99 00 www.ristoranteindia.it info@ristoranteindia.it

Piazza Mino da Fiesole, 33, Fiesole 055 59 121 vinandro@libero.it www.vinandrofiesole.com

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

LIFE

An introduction to The digestivo: Why bother? the Italian aperitivo

Referring to both the pre-dinner drink and the social environment in which it is consumed, the aperitivo culture is one of the unexpected joys that foreigners discover upon arriving in Italy for the first time. The Italian aperitivo tradition has gained serious momentum in recent years, with many bars offering what amounts to a full-scale buffet dinner included in the price of the drink. Italian aperitivi are characteristically bitter, designed to sharpen the appetite before a long and gluttonous meal, and typically contain Aperol, Campari or Vermouth. Quintessential Italian aperitivi include Negroni, Spritz and Americano, which can share the base ingredient of Campari but are also offered with some minor variations. Americano is made with half Campari, half sweet Vermouth and soda water with lemons as a garnish. It was originally served in Gaspare Campari’s café in Milan and called the ‘Milano-Torino cocktail’ in reference to the Campari from Milan and Vermouth from Turin. However, because of its increased popularity among American tourists, its name was changed to ‘Americano’. In 1919 when Count Camillo Negroni was at the Caffè Casoni (now Caffè Giacosa) in Flor-

ence, he wanted to order his Americano drink a bit stronger. The bartender decided to add gin instead of soda water and an orange instead of a lemon to distinguish that this was a different drink. The cocktail was so well received that the Negroni family founded a Negroni distillery in Treviso and produced ready-made drinks called ‘Antico Negroni’. Currently there are three different variations of the Negroni cocktail. The first was invented in Milan and was called the ‘Negroni Sbagliato’, which literally means the ‘wrong Negroni’, where Spumante Brut (dry sparkling white wine) is substituted for gin. The Negroski is a version with vodka instead of gin, while the Sparkling Negroni has the same main three parts consisting of gin, Campari and Vermouth plus Champagne or Prosecco and sometimes an orange twist. The classic Spritz cocktail is another popular choice for an aperitivo, combining Aperol, Prosecco and seltzer. Venturing away from the standard American drinks that are ubiquitously available can be a rewarding and delicious change. Next time you’re leaning towards a Long Island Iced Tea, why not take your tastebuds on a culinary tour and go for a Spritz instead?

Misty Evans

After spending hours talking, drinking wine and shoveling antipasto, primo, secondo and dolce into a stuffed body against one’s better judgement, it’s easy to understand why the Italians have such an incredible selection of after-dinner drinks. These digestivi were made to soothe and comfort; to provide a calm walk back towards the light from the dark hole of gluttony. Italians have put together some of the best tonics and elixirs of infused herbs to aid digestion

and they are world-famous for it. In Italy the digestivo is as much a part of a dining experience as the wine. It’s impossible to get through a meal in Italy without the host or waiter asking if you’d like one; often they’ll even set it down without your requesting it. It can be dangerous for a newcomer, as the alcohol content runs between 20 and 40 percent, and many a good man has been floored by having one too many ‘shots’ of the tummy-calming elixir. Despite what many think, the group of drinks known as the digestivo doesn’t include grappa,

limoncello, or the other alcohol-based fun-extenders that can add a nice bang to the end of a meal. These are too sugary and lack the botanical components that are believed to ease digestive upset that comes from having access to too much good food. The bitter amari are the true digestivi, and are in fact bitter and often an acquired taste. There is an array of amari available and all of them are made with different base infusions, from artichoke to green walnut and a variety of roots, herbs, flowers and spices all intended to aid good digestion and overall health. There are the fernets made famous by the likes of Fernet-Branca, with its base of 40 herbs and saffron, then there are Averna, Branca Menta, Amaro del Capo, Unicum and Jägermeister, to name a few of the more well-known. While there seems to be no solid medical proof that amari actually work medicinally in the same way that Tums or other over-the-counter stomach medicines do, there are reasons to believe that the true amari could possess some soothing effects. Bitter flavors have long been consumed either before or after meals in most countries, and mint, fennel, walnut, ginger and various astringent parts of plants have historically been used to aid digestion. In health food stores today you’ll find tablets full of the same stuff, minus the potent kick of alcohol – which can actually upset digestion and is not recommended for those with ulcers or more serious intestinal problems. Regardless of whether drinking a digestivo actually aids the digestive tract or not, we can be certain of one thing: the potent elixirs certainly come with a mental comfort that sometimes can be every bit as useful.

CABIRIA LOUNGE BAR LIVELY NIGHTLIFE IN SANTO SPIRITO

APERITIVO FROM 6.P.M.

Named after Federico Fellini’s Le Notti di Cabiria, this lounge bar evokes a nightlife full of beautiful people, music and social events. With a modern, fashionable and trendy feel mimicking that of an old Parisian cafe, Cabiria is a unique place to enjoy a memorable night. One of the most popular nightclubs in the lively Piazza Santo Spirito, an ancient and fascinating square in the city, Cabiria’s location makes it a sought-out place for locals and tourists alike. Open every day until 2 a.m., it offers a generous aperitivo buffet of snacks and hot gourmet dishes specially made in the private kitchen from 7 – 9:30 p.m, paired with a selection of high-quality cocktails and wine. Cabiria is also an ideal location for dinner and a great late-night spot to relax and enjoy music on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. The lounge bar also acts as a host for photographic exhibitions, presentations and other events.

Located in Via deí Benci, Gallery Café Art Bar is one of the hottest nightlife spots in the city. It offers live music every Wednesday and Friday with local star of the Florentine music scene, Italian-American musician Derek James Mattucchio and his troupe of talented friends. This former art gallery also preserves its vocation to art with exhibitions of young local artists. Offering light lunch, bistro dinner and outdoor seating, Gallery Café Art Bar’s music and art creates an inviting and laid-back wine bar vibe.

Piazza Santo Spirito, 4/r 055 21 57 32 info@ricchiristorante.com www.cafecabiria.com

Opening hours: Daily from 11 a.m.–2 a.m. light lunch & bistro dinner students granted a 10% discount on meals Via dè Benci, 30/r 055 22 60 204 galleryfirenze@gmail.com

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

Getting over the coffee barrier

ing for hometown comforts and I found myself searching for a nice, quiet café to relax, work, Other Americans often ask me, “What is dif- and stalk, but finding that place took months. ferent about Italy from the USA?” After living They don’t do coffee like we do coffee. here for four years I have a long, long list of This is one area where Americans might out-romance the Italians. We noticeable differencare dedicated to loving es; some of them are Through many moments our coffee and some valid and ‘anthropoof us even live for it. logical’, others more in our lives – a first date, a search for the best ethnocentric. One of breakup – coffee is with us. We coffee shop, and the the first things I nobest combination, we ticed when I first arrived here, probably because of my addiction become loyal to it, use it to warm our hands to caffeine and nostalgia for home, was the and our bodies, to inspire; we sip it slowly, carry it with us, and we commit to it through the coffee, or rather the method of consuming it. When I arrived, like most newbies, I tried to be ups and downs of overdose and withdrawal. ‘Italian,’ blend in, and do what the locals do. Through many moments in our lives – a first When in Rome, right? Sure. Soon I was look- date, a breakup – coffee is with us. We over-

Misty Evans

indulge, while Italians seem to drink coffee had her friends ship her a box of 20-ounce Stylike a regrettable one-night-stand: there is no rofoam to-go cups so she could bring a large love, just wham-bam-thank-you-ma’am. They coffee with her to the studio to feel a little more stand at the bar, slam a shot of espresso, served ‘at home.’ scalding hot in a thimble, and then they’re on For the few of you who are like me, who like to be in public without havtheir way. Coffee is not ing to engage in human a thing to savor here, In Florence, bars are interaction, this can have you can’t spend an enwhere locals go to pound a large impact on how tire afternoon molesting a 20-ounce to-go cup a shot of espresso on one you live. For example, before moving to Florand you will not easily of their breaks, drink a ence I never spent an enpound out a novel to the intoxicating scent of caf- quick cocktail, or scream tire day in my apartment feine vapor. The largest about politics and soccer. “working”. In the US of A, coffee da portare via cup they shops are like free comhave here is eight ouncmunal offices for working, studying, prees. Sometimes, my friends, size matters. When I was a student, one of my classmates tending to be social, and freeloading wi-fi. In

The 1st American Coffee Company in Italy opens a new store

NEW OPENING IN FLORENCE

LIFE

Florence, bars are where locals go to pound a shot of espresso on one of their breaks, drink a quick cocktail, or scream about politics and soccer. It makes hovering in the corner with a laptop difficult. After four years, the lack of home-away-from-home space still gives me anxiety. I know, I sound like one of “those” Americans incapable of blending, but in this case it’s not because I refuse to adapt to another culture, it’s more about feeling at home, and I believe it goes both ways. My husband is Italian and it drives him nuts when I ask him to go out for a coffee, then I order a cappuccino and sit down because he wants to go! When I make fun of him for chugging espresso he says,”Italian coffee is the best in ALL the world and you don’t know how to drink it,” and I agree that the coffee is good, so why do they insist on throwing it back like nail-polishgrade vodka? But something about tossing one back comforts him, while the idea of sipping six consecutive buckets of “dirty water” gives him heart palpitations. When we’re in the US visiting our family, he’ll make me drive across town to a very specific coffee shop where they make, according to him, the “espresso right.” He’ll stand at the cash register and start drinking it while the barista repeats: “Can I help you? Do you need something else?” while people in line behind him become increasingly nervous and confused by the weird foreign guy who won’t move. He cannot, and will not sip a mug of coffee with me in our pajamas at my parents’ house because “it’s weird.” He’d rather be that dude standing way too close to the cash register throwing back a shot while everyone wonders what the hell he’s doing, and I’d rather walk across town to find a place that allows me to sit down for hours without the sound of old men or women bantering about foreign intruders, Berlusconi, or what kind of cake they enjoy baking or eating. Sometimes we need certain things to feel at home, to feel normal, and the coffee ritual is a tough habit to break for anyone. Luckily, after four years I’ve managed to find a few places a little more like home. If you’re in search of the same thing, too bad; I’m not the Yellow Pages. (All right, fine, I was informed that I should give the locations). So, check out Arnold Coffee near Piazza Santa Maria Novella on Via degli Avelli, 4-8/r

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

MUSIC

Musica dei Popoli 2013

Wamali Percussions (Guinea)

Cultural dance at Auditorium Flog Sarah Humphreys

If you’re looking for something a bit different to do over the next few weeks, the 38th edition of Musica dei Popoli presents Danza in Estasi at Auditorium Flog, with a fascinating program of folk, traditional and cultural dance. Kicking off events on October 4 is Namrta Rai from India. Her performance, Soulful Sufi, accompanied by bamboo flutes, the harmonium and tablas, combines Sufi mysticism and classical Indian Kathak dance. Wamali Percussions, a group of dancers and percussionists from Guinea, present their creative project showing how traditional music can enrich contemporary movements on October 5. Their intriguing show uses traditional instruments including the balafon, a wooden percussion instrument and the kora, a bridgeharp. On October 11, Timba Odara presents Ceremonia, a blend of sensual colours, rhythms and songs. The first part of the performance revolves around rhythm, song and dance. The second part features traditional Cuban dance forms, including the cha cha chá and mambo, and modern Cuban dances such as the salsa and timba. The October 12 event takes place at Teatro Dante in Campo Bisenzio. Egyptian dancer Suraya Hilal, well known for her unique expressive capacity, performs her blend of contemporary and traditional dance. A group of Tibetan monks from the Tibetan Monastery of Tashi Lhunpo present ritual Cham dance, a masked and costumed dance associated with Buddhism, which offers moral

instruction and is a form of meditation, on October 19. On October 26 Quinteto el Después from Argentina perform their original vision of contemporary tango. Couples Jorge Rodriguez and Maria Filali and Jerémy Abraham Braitbrart & Natalia Carolina Cristobal are accompanied by a musical quintet. A selection of Italy’s best young hip-hop dancers will take part in a hip-hop dance competition on October 27. Italian group Canzoniere Grecanico Salentino offer their version of the pizzica tarantata, a popular folk dance from Puglia, on November 1. The group’s stirring and emotional performance takes an ironic look at the modern world. Auditorium Flog is also offering a series of workshops, including African Dance on October 5 and 6, Egyptian Dance with Suraya Hilal on October 13, and lessons and a concert of Italian folk music given by the Musicanti del Piccolo Borgo at Teatro Dante on October 23.

Musica dei Popoli 2013: Danza in Estasi

Concerts begin at 9:30 p.m. Info: 055 46 28 714 Box office: 055 21 08 04 Cost: €15 full price; €12 reduced. Hip-hop competition: €10 www.flog.it Auditorium Flog – Via Mercanti, 24/B Teatro Dante – Piazza Dante, Campi Bisenzio

VINTAGE VINYL & NEW RELEASES NEAR SANTA CROCE Tucked away on Via de’ Neri, Data Records 93 is a the perfect spot for music aficionados and those looking for a different take on current music or a nostalgic throwback to decades past. Born in 1977 as Contempo Records, it holds a vast collection of music, from new releases to rare pressings, and even includes recent releases on vinyl. Data Records 93’s eclectic and valuable collection regularly attracts international DJs and it also ships all over the world.

Opening hours: Mon–Sat: 10:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m; Sunday: 3:30–7:30 p.m.

Cremona’s Violin Museum sets a new tone for the arts Stradivari’s birthplace Cremona has opened its state-of-the-art Violin Museum at a formerly disused arts center at a rumored cost of more than €10 million. The museum comprises several collections, counting among its priceless exhibits a 1727 Stradivarius known as Vesuvius alongside a 1566 model designed by Andrea Amati, who is known as the father of the modern violin. However, the museum is not merely a repository for priceless historic artifacts but has been designed to educate visitors on the history and craftsmanship of violin-making and the peculiar qualities that have made Cremonese violins sought after throughout the world, for which its craftspeople were inscribed onto UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list in 2012. Visitors can watch a luthier at work on-site and experience a recital in 450-seat auditorium with acoustics designed to create an intimate “dialogue” between the players and audience, and contours recalling the instrument itself.

Tempo Reale Festival 2013

Director of violin-making at the museum and Friends of Stradivari president Paolo Bodini described the museum’s approach as unique: “There are very beautiful collections of Cremonese violins around the world – in London, for example, at the Royal Academy of Music … but nothing of this kind. Most of these collections are located in more generalist museums so they’re … kind of lost amid the huge amount of things that these museums exhibit,” he said. The project was spearheaded by local steel magnate and arts patron Giovanni Arvedi, who together with the Arvedi-Buschini Foundation, local government and sponsors, funded the renovation of the city’s disused Palazzo dell’Arte into a multi-million-euro complex. To celebrate the museum’s inauguration, Cremona is hosting the Stradivarifestival until October 13, with a series of exhibitions, meetings and concerts. Full details can be found at www.museodelviolino.org

The Tempo Reale Festival explores experimental music and its innovative experiences with sound, and its relationship with other genres and arts. The theme for the sixth edition of this festival is ‘Sound and Work’, presenting surprising and diverse musical combinations around the city in various locations. Music, theater, sound walks and installations all included. A photo exhibition accompanies the festival theme, overseen by social issue photojournalist Paolo Cagnacci.

Tempo Reale Festival

October 4–17 2013 Villa Strozzi Limonaia and various public locations. Info: 055 71 72 70 www.temporealefestival.it

Negrita returns to Florence Popular local band to perform live on Oct. 18 Ivana Scatola

Tuscany’s very own Negrita, an alternative rock band that has enjoyed some 20 long years of success, returns to the capital of its home region to perform this month. The three-piece performs at Teatro Verdi on October 18 as part of its first acoustic tour, Unplugged 2013, which started last February and begins again this fall. The new leg of the tour is to promote the band’s new album, Dejà Vu, which was released on September 24. Florence holds great significance and nostalgia for the band members, as it was here that they began recording songs at the IRA studios in August 1993 for their debut album, Negrita. The band’s sound has developed and changed throughout the years as it has matured, and the

decision to do an unplugged acoustic tour is one that is extremely refreshing for fans and allows them to experience the band in a simple and raw style. The decision for an acoustic tour is one that has also been previously adopted by artists such as Neil Young, and more recently English folk band Mumford & Sons. In an interview with Italian Rolling Stone magazine earlier in the year, lead singer Paolo Bruni revealed that playing live was extremely important for the band, as it was the way in which they maintained a relationship with their fans and were able to generate new ones. He explained that playing in Italy was extremely different to touring in America, where they decided to travel impulsively and encountered situations that reminded them of their earlier days as a band.

Tennis Instructor THE IRISH PUB IN SAN LORENZO A semi-circular counter, wooden furniture and a Guinness mug make Dublin Pub an Irish haven in the middle of central Florence. The historic bar opens at 5 p.m. every evening and offers quality beer, fresh cocktails, sandwiches and snacks amidst a traditional Irish pub atmosphere. Located on Via Faenza, just a short walk from the Duomo, the pub also offers various promotions and contests with many exciting prizes. The genuine atmosphere together with the helpful and inviting staff make Dublin Pub an ideal place to spend fun nights in good company or enjoy a beer any time while listening to great background music.

If you want to work on your swing or just get some exercise into your weekly schedule tennis instructor Celoni Iuri offers professional standard tennis lessons in Florence. Certified by the U.I.S.P (the Italian Sport for Everyone Union) and the A.I.C.S (the Italian Culture and Sport Association) Iuri gives tennis lessons for both groups and one-on-one sessions, at the Marina di Candeli tennis club in the Bagno a Ripoli area.

“It was much more of an adventure,” Bruni explains. Touring in Italy, on the other hand, presents a complete contrast, due to the strong core fan base already established in their home country, which was recognised with a nomination for Best Italian Group in 1999 by the MTV European Music Awards.

THE BAR YOUR MOM WARNED YOU ABOUT The newly reopened Jack is ready to rock ‘n’ roll! Come by for lunch or dinner and try the revamped menu featuring traditional Italian food and American staples. Enjoy live music, DJ sets and the costume parties that Jack has become famous for, as well as two HD screens showcasing special sporting events. If all that Italian espresso just isn’t hitting the mark, drop by One-Eyed Jack’s to enjoy American coffee with a free refill between 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. Free wifi is also available.

Opening hours: Daily from 11 a.m. – 2 a.m.

Opening hours: Daily from 5 p.m. Via de’ Neri, 15/r 055 287 592 www.superecords.com

Via Faenza, 27 055 27 41 571 info@dublinpub.it www.dublinpub.it

celoni.iuri@alice.it 3480657769

Piazza Nazario Sauro, 2/r 055 09 44 561 www.thejackpub.com info@thejackpub.com

ellina

Ghib ia V e z n Fire

5452

055 234 : L E T r 0 8

h s i n Spa n a c i Mex t n a r u a t s re ay d s r u h T nal o i t a n r Inte Party

Salamanca, a local Mexican-Spanish restaurant and disco pub, is hosting a special night for study abroad students on Thursdays. The restaurant, which is just a few minutesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; walk from the Duomo, offers authentic Mexican and Spanish food. Tapas, typical Spanish appetizers, are served along with traditional Spanish dishes. To accompany the great food, Salamanca also offers a lively atmosphere in which to experience it. In addition to a restaurant, the venue also features a bar, lounge and club. If you're not in the mood to dance then you're welcome to simply sit back and enjoy the entertainment, which includes live Latin music and flamenco dancers.

www.salamanca.it

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

EVENTS EXHIBITIONS DIAPHANOUS PASSIONS. BAROQUE IVORIES FROM THE EUROPEAN COURTS Until November 3 Museo degli Argenti - Palazzo Pitti Info: 055 29 48 83 www.unannoadarte.it

ANDY WARHOL – AN AMERICAN STORY October 11–February 1 Palazzo Blu, Pisa Info: 050 22 04 650 www.palazzoblu.it /www.mostrawarhol.it THE AMAZING SHOEMAKER. FAIRY TALES ABOUT SHOES AND SHOEMAKERS Until March 31, 2014 Salvatore Ferragamo Museum Info: 055 33 60 456 / 055 33 60 455 www.museoferragamo.com

FINISHING THIS MONTH

SAMURAI! JAPANESE ARMORS OF THE STIBBERT COLLECTION Until November 3 Stibbert Museum Info: 055 47 55 20 www.museostibbert.it THE GREAT PRINCE. FERDINANDO DE’ MEDICI (1663 – 1713) ART COLLECTOR AND PATRON OF THE ARTS Until November 3 Uffizi Gallery Info: 055 29 48 83 www.unannoadarte.it FROM THE LILY TO THE DAVID: CIVIL ARTS IN FLORENCE DURING THE MUNICIPAL AGE Until December 8 Accademia Gallery Info: 055 29 08 32 www.unannoadarte.it FROM ROBERTO CAPUCCI’S HANDS: FABRICS TO BE MOLDED Until December 31 Villa Bardini Info: 055 26 38 599 / 055 20 06 6206 The Renaissance from Florence to Paris and Back: Treasures of the Jacquemart-André Museum return home Until December 31 Villa Bardini Info: 055 20 06 6206 / 055 23 88 616 www.renaissanceflorenceparis.com

PIETRO TESTA: ARTIST-PHILOSOPHER OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY Until October 6 Uffizi Gallery Info: 055 29 48 83 www.polomuseale.firenze.it/en/mostre/ AMID MEDICI SPLENDOUR: POPE LEO X AND FLORENCE Until October 6 Medici Chapel, San Lorenzo Info: 055 23 88 602 / 055 29 48 83 THE MYTH, THE SACRED, THE PORTRAIT: PAINTINGS FROM THE REPOSITORIES OF THE PALATINE GALLERY Until October 13 The Palatine Gallery Info: 055 23 88 614 www.polomuseale.firenze.it/en/mostre/

UNSTABLE TERRITORY October 11 – January 19, 2014 Palazzo Strozzi Info: 055 39 17 11 http://www.strozzina.org/en

THE RUSSIAN AVANT-GARDE, SIBERIA AND THE EAST Kandinsky, Malevič, Filonov, Gončarova Until January 19, 2014 Palazzo Strozzi Info: 055 24 69 600 www.palazzostrozzi.org/ IMPRESSIONISTS AT PALAZZO PITTI: 12 MASTERPIECES FROM MUSÉE D’ORSAY Until January 5, 2014 Palazzo Pitti Info: 050 29 03 83 www.impressionistiafirenze.it/eng

Tours are led by experienced hikers and take place from 9 a.m.–12 noon on the Sunday mornings advertised. Attendance is free but must be booked by 12 noon on the Friday before each walk on one of the following telephone numbers: 055 59 61 311 / 055 59 61 323 / 055 59 61 256. The organizers recommend wearing sensible walking shoes and carrying a bottle of water.

music/theater DANZA IN ESTASI Folk, traditional and cultural dance September 28 – November 1 Box office 055 21 08 04 Info: Flog 055 46 28 714 Venues: Auditorium Flog, Via Mercanti, 24/B Teatro Dante, Piazza Dante, Campi Bisenzio www.flog.it SERI TANKIAN featuring ORCHESTRA FILARMONICA ITALIANA October 3 Teatro Comunale Info: www.ticketone.it LUSSURIA - The dark side of The Divine Comedy October 5 Teatro Verdi www.teatroverdionline.it

ANTONIO CANOVA. MEMORY Until October 21 Casa Buonarroti Info: 055 24 17 52 www.casabuonarroti.it

BEAUTY

AND

ZHANG HUAN. SOUL AND MATTER Until October 13 Palazzo Vecchio and Forte Belvedere Info: 055 26 25 961 www.oncevents.com/fortedibelvedere/

Fiesole tours

IZIS: THE POET OF PHOTOGRAPHY Until January 6, 2014 MNAF Alinari National Museum of Photography Piazza Santa Maria Novella Info: 055 21 63 10 www.alinari.it

‘Via Vecchia Fiesolana: History and Art’ Until October 27. Meeting place: Piazza Mino, in front of the Town Hall, at 9 a.m. Take bus no. 7 from Piazza San Marco.

‘Gardens of Fiesole and Vaglia Villas’ October 3 (Villa Medici) October 10 (Villa Nieuwenkamp) Bookings/info: 055 055 (call center) Cost: €5 full price; €3 reduced www.fiesoleforyou.it/en

FREE TOURS:

October 5–6 Info: 055 83 01 075 www.lafierucola.org AUTUMNTIME SHOW OF FLOWERS AND PLANTS Giardino dell’Orticoltura al Pellegrino, Via Bolognese October 5-6 Info: 055 20 06 62 37 www.societatoscanaolticultura.it 28TH BIENNALE INTERNATIONAL ANTIQUES FAIR Palazzo Corsini October 4-5 Info: 055 28 22 83 www.mostraantiquariato.it WEDDING FAIR Fortezza da Basso, Viale Strozzi October 31- November 4 Info: 055 46 15 21 www.tuttosposifirenze.it BEEFSTEAK AND MUSHROOM FESTIVAL Centro Polivamente ‘Antonino Caponetto’ Viale Matteotti - CERTALDO October 4, 5, 6, 11, 12, 13 Info: 333 41 14 944 www.comune.certaldo.fi.it MARRADI CHESTNUT FESTIVAL Marradi Town, Mugello October 6–27 Info: 055 80 45 170 www.pro-marradi.it

GREGORIAN CHANT October 5,19 Orsanmichele church Info: 328 56 40 127 RENATO ZERO October 18–21 Nelson Mandela Forum Info: 055 67 88 41 www.mandelaforum.it

IL TEMPO REALE FESTIVAL Villa Strozzi October 4- 17 Info: 055 71 72 70 www.twmporealefestival.it

ROMEO & JULIET (in Italian) October 26 Teatro Verdi www.teatroverdionline.it

Florentine

‘Fiesole and its Foundations’ October 5 (Michelucci Foundation) Bookings/info: 055 59 61 311 www.fiesoleforyou.it/en ‘Fiesole Religious Art Never Before Seen’ Piazza Mino (meeting point) October 12 and 19 Bookings/info: 055 59 61 311 www.fiesoleforyou.it/en

Fiesole Music School Concert with aperitivo Villa Bardini October 29 Info: 055 20 06 62 06 www.bardinipeyron.it/ab

Between Nature and Culture: Fiesole’s free Sunday morning walks ‘Montecerceri Park and its Quarries’ Until October 6 Meeting place: Piazza Mino, in front of the Town Hall, at 9 a.m. Take bus no. 7 from Piazza San Marco.

Concert with aperitivo by Conservatorio Luigi Cherubini Villa Bardini October 1 & 22 Info: 055 20 06 62 06 www.bardinipeyron.it/ab

‘Looking over the River Arno from Fiesole’ Until October 13. Meeting place: ATAF bus stop Piazza S. Pertini at 9 a.m. Take bus no. 14A from SMN station.

EMOTIONS FROM CHIANTI Wine and food, handicraft products Piazza della Repubblica October 10-13 Info: 055 82 56 385 www.firenzeturistico.it

‘Villa Peyron and Fontelucente Wood’ Until October 20. Meeting place: Piazza Mino, in front of the Town Hall, at 9 a.m. Take bus no. 7 from Piazza San Marco.

OCTOBER CHESTNUT FESTIVAL AND EXHIBITION Piazza della Repubblica October 5–6 Info: 055 83 85 41

MARKETS/FAIRS

CERAMICS FAIR Piazza SS. Annunziata

BOCCACCIO FESTIVITIES Info: 057 166 1265 www.boccaccio2013.it IN THE HUNT FOR BOCCACCIO’S TREASURES Certaldo Alto October 5 BOCCACCIO AUTHOR AND COPYIST EXHIBITION Exhibition of Boccaccio’s manuscripts Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana October 10 - May 2014

BOCCACCIO THE SCHOLAR International Convention Palazzo della Signoria/Accamdemia della Crusca (Firenze), Palazzo Pretorio (Certaldo) October 10,11,15 NOVEL VIII, EIGHTH DAY OF THE DECAMERON Literary musical with live music Casa Boccaccio, Certaldo October 11 THE ENGRAVED BOCCACCIO EXHIBITION Casa del Boccaccio, Certaldo Until October 12

Amici della Musica Concerts Teatro della Pergola October 2 and 6 Info: 055 60 74 40 www.amicimusica.fi.it

Concerts by the Chamber Orchestra Museo di Orsanmichele October 6-7 Info: 055 78 33 74 www.orcafi.it

PERUGIA CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL October 18-27 Info: 075 50 25 880 www.eurochocolate.com

SPECIAL FESTIVALS AUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND FILM FESTIVAL The British Institute of Florence October 2–December 18 Info: 055 267 781 www.britishinstitute.it/en/events/2-talkingpictures

La Traviata by Giuseppe Verdi Duomo Auditorium, Via Cerretani October 5,12,19 & 26 Info: 328 35 62 380 www.musicainmaschera.it

OUT OF TOWN

NEURUPPIN’S ARTISTS FOR BOCCACCIO Certaldo October 13 - November 3 CORRI LA VITA 2013 CHARITY WALK Piazza Duomo–Piazza Signoria October 13 Info: 055 55 22 957 www.corrilavita.it

TRAVELLING WITH BOCCACCIO Presentation of Massimo Geraldi’s book Biblioteca Bruno Ciari, Certaldo October 19

50 DAYS OF INTERNATIONAL CINEMA IN FLORENCE Odeon Cinema, Piazza Strozzi October 25–December 15 Info: 055 29 50 51 www.firenzemadeintuscany.com

THE NETWORK OF THE CITY OF ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS EUROPEAN SCHOLARS An event for all of the cities twinned with Certaldo (Chinon, Canterbury) Certaldo Alto October 21 INSPIRATION FROM THE DECAMERON EXHIBITION Palazzo Pretorio, Certaldo Until December 29

International Festival of Cinema and Women October 25–31 France Odeon Festival October 31– Nov 3

BOCCACCIO INTERNATIONAL CONVENTIONS Palazzo della Signoria, Salone dei Dugente October 10 Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana, Sala D’Elci October 10 Villa di Castello, Accademmia della Crusca October 11 Palazzo Pretorio, Certaldo October 12

FOR CHILDREN INTERCITY FESTIVAL Until October 31 Teatro della Limonaia, Sesto Fiorentino Info: 055 44 08 52 / 449 13 12 www.teatrodellalimonaia.it

EVERYTHING SCIENCE AT THE GALILEO MUSEUM Galileo Museum October 5,6,12,13,19,20 Info: 055 26 53 11 www.famigliealmuseo.it

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

ENTERTAINMENT

50 Days of International Cinema Australian and New Zealand Film Festival Lucy David

Ivana Scatola

This year, 50 Days of International Cinema commemorates its seventh edition in Florence with the theme of celebrating women. The event comprises nine different film festivals, including short-length and full-length films, documentaries and previews, as well as awards and presentations with various writers and producers. International Festival of Cinema and Women (Oct. 25 - 30): This festival launches the 2013 event with a celebration of women in cinema: actresses, producers, writers and directors, and their invaluable contributions to international cinema. France Odeon (Oct. 31 -Nov. 3): This festival flaunts the very best of contemporary French cinema, with various genres on exhibit – from art-house cinema to animated film, horror, documentary and comedy, not to mention works hailing from the Cannes Film Festival as well as those that received the best box office success this year. FlorenceQueerFestival(Nov.6-12):As well as cinema, this also features LGBT theater, literature and art, including Lei disse sì (‘She said yes’), a project that began as a blog but then developed into a documentary, which follows the plans for couple Ingrid and Lorenza’s wedding, who fled Italy to go to Sweden so they could get married. Screen Art Film Festival (Nov. 13-17): This

festival is devoted to the presentation of contemporary art cinema. This year the festival includes ‘Festival Talks,’ a chance to meet and chat to writers and artists of featured films. Florence Indian Film Festival (Nov. 22-28): This year the River to River Indian Film Festival commemorates its 13th year. It is unique in the fact that it is the only festival in Italy dedicated entirely to Indian film, which highlights the best films from this year. Festival dei Popoli (Nov. 30-Dec. 7): An international festival of documentary film, Festival dei Popoli presents the best of documentary production from all over the world, including both short and full-length films. This year’s edition will focus on Marcel and Pawel Łoziński, father and son who together have created films narrating stories from their native Poland. This year sees the festival introduce an ‘Industry’ section, which features presentations of projects, pitching, rough cuts, and a chance to meet the writers and producers. Review of Finnish cinema (Dec. 8-11): Providing an insight into the culture of Northern Europe, the festival’s theme takes the shape of ‘Dialogues in Finno-Hungarian Cinema’ and aims to present not only Finnish cinema but Estonian and Hungarian too. The festival ties in with the overall theme of celebrating women by featuring films directed by women that also tell stories about women. Florence Balkan Express (Dec. 12-13): Twenty films ranging from fiction to docu-

mentary explore contemporary society in the Balkans, including screenings from the Sarajevo Film Festival (Bosnia-Herzegovina), PriFilm Festival (Kosovo), Cinedays (Macedonia), Tirana Film Festival (Albania), Croatian National Cinema Archive (Croatia), Freezone Festival (Serbia) and Crnogorska Kinoteka (Montenegro). N.I.C.E. Florence Award (Dec. 13): New Italian Cinema Events was created to promote new Italian cinema abroad and particularly across the pond. Here, the winner of the N.I.C.E. USA 2013 (as voted by the public) will officially receive the N.I.C.E. Florence Award in a gala-style evening. Festival of Etno-musical Film (Dec. 14-15): Closing the whole event is the festival celebrating images and sounds from all over the world, embarking on a journey through various and diverse cultures. Featured works include C. Saura’s Flamenco and documentary Soundbreaker about the life of eccentric Finnish accordion player Kimmo Pohjonen, directed by Kimmo Koskela.

Rush:

The Family:

DIRECTOR: Ron Howard GENRE: Biography-action-drama STARS: Chris Hemsworth, Daniel Bruhl, Olivia Wilde PLOT: A biography of Austrian Formula 1 champion driver Niki Lauda and the 1976 crash that almost claimed his life. Mere weeks after the accident, he got behind the wheel to challenge his British rival, James Hunt. Dates/hours: Fri, Oct. 11 at 8:15, 10:30 p.m. Sat, Oct. 12 at 8:15, 10:30 p.m. Sun, Oct. 13 at 3:45, 6, 8:15, 10:30 p.m. Mon, Oct. 14 at 6, 8:15, 10:30 p.m.

DIRECTOR: Luc Besson GENRE: Action-crime-comedy, drama STARS: Robert De Niro, Michelle Pfeiffer, Tommy Lee Jones PLOT: The Manzoni family, a notorious mafia clan, is relocated to Normandy, France under the witness protection program, where fitting in soon becomes challenging as their old habits die hard. Dates/hours: Thu, Oct. 17 at 4, 6:30, 9 p.m. Fri, Oct. 18 at 4, 6:30, 9 p.m. Sat, Oct. 19 at 4, 6:30, 9 p.m. Sun, Oct. 20: 4, 6:30, 9 p.m.

DIRECTOR: Richard Linklater GENRE: Action-crime-comedy, drama STARS: Ethan Hawke, Julie Delpy PLOT: We meet Jesse and Celine nine years on in Greece. Almost two decades have passed since their first meeting on

that train bound for Vienna. Dates/hours: Mon, Oct. 21: 4, 6.30, 9 p.m. Tue, Oct. 22: 5:30 p.m. Wed, Oct. 23: 4, 6:30, 9 p.m.

50 Days of International Cinema in Florence

October 25 – December 15 Odeon Cinema, Piazza Strozzi Info: 055 21 40 68 / 055 271 90 11 www.50giornidicinema2013.it

ODEON FIRENZE Piazza Strozzi, Firenze 055 214 068 Office: 055 295 051 www.odeonfirenze.com

The Antipodes have long been considered a mythical shore for dwellers on this side of the globe but did you know that Australia created the world’s first feature-length film? Entitled The Story of the Kelly Gang, the film about Australia’s notorious bushranger Ned Kelly was produced in 1906 and triggered a whole genre of bushranger films to rival Hollywood’s Westerns. Since then both Australia and New Zealand have lent their native talent and singular landscapes to the big screen. From Peter Weir’s searing 1975 classic Picnic at Hanging Rock to Peter Jackson’s box-office smash Lord of the Rings trilogy, both countries continue to make their mark on the international cinema circuit with stories of their Aboriginal, Maori, colonial and multicultural heritage. Join the British Institute in October and November for a showcase of Antipodean films that, true to their countries’ native boldness, are unafraid to make us laugh, cry or squirm uncomfortably in our seats.

DIRECTOR: Oliver Hirschbiegel GENRE: Biography-romance-drama STARS: Naomi Watts, Naveen Andrews, Juliet Stevenson PLOT: Previously called Caught in Flight, this biopic is about the last two years of Princess Diana’s life: her public campaign against land mines and her private and difficult relationship with surgeon Dr Hasnat Khan, as well as her persecution by the paparazzi. Dates/hours: Thu, Oct. 3 at 5, 8:15, 10:30 p.m. Fri, Oct. 4 at 5, 8:15, 10:30 p.m. Sat, Oct. 5 at 3:45, 6, 8:15, 10:30 p.m. Sun, Oct. 6 at 3:45, 6, 8:15, 10.30 p.m. Mon, Oct. 7 at 5, 8:15, 10:30 p.m. Tue, Oct. 8 at 5:30 p.m. Wed, Oct. 9 at 4:15 p.m. Thu, Oct. 10 at 5, 8:15, 10:30 p.m Tue, Oct. 15 at 5:30 p.m. Wed, Oct.16 at 5 p.m.

BreakerMorant

October 23 at 8 p.m. Breaker Morant is a 1980 Australian film about wartime betrayal and injustice. Directed by Bruce Beresford and starring an all-Australian support cast, the film deals with Australian identity and the classic themes of mateship within the context of the Boer War, where three Australian Army officers are on trial for murder.

PicnicatHangingRock

October 2 at 8 p.m. (Peter Weir, AUS, 1975) with Rachel Roberts, Anne-Louise Lambert, Vivean Gray Picnic at Hanging Rock has entered the Australian subconscious as a metaphor for all that is not quite understood about this vast and mysterious continent. A group of Victorian schoolgirls go on a picnic to celebrate St Valentine’s Day in 1900: three students and a teacher disappear without a trace. The resulting search and sub-plots that arise form one of the most haunting urban legends ever produced in Australian film.

Tickets: Regular: €7.50; Reduced: €6* *Every Wednesday; students from Mon. to Fri. and selected partnerships. Club Odeon Classic: €3

Diana:

Joanne Samuel, Hugh Keays-Byrne Mad Max is the 1979 Australian action and adventure film that catapulted Mel Gibson to stardom. The film is a vision of an apocalyptic future set in rural Australia with a dramatic battle between outlaw gangs and police trying to maintain order.

StrictlyBallroom

October 30 at 8 p.m. (Baz Luhrmann, AUS, 1992) with Paul Mercurio, Tara Morice, Bill Hunter Baz Luhrmann’s romantic comedy set a precedent for Australian film in the early ‘90s. Starring Paul Mecurio and Tara Morice, the film recounts the tale of darling of the ballroom dancing circuit Scott’s refusal to abide by institution regulations and instead join forces with misfit beginner Fran to take on the Pan Pacific Championships. With a rousing score and loveable characters, this shamelessly, celebratory kitsch film has guaranteed its place as a modern cult classic.

TheChantofJimmieBlacksmith

October 9 at 8 p.m. (Fred Schepisi, AUS, 1978) with Tom E. Lewis, Freddy Reynolds and Ray Barrett The Chant of Jimmie Blacksmith is a 1978 Australian drama film that attacks the myth of Aboriginal submission in the face of European settlement. Challenging, violent and groundbreaking for its day, the film recounts the story of a young half-caste man caught between Aboriginal and European cultures in the late nineteenth century who, after being betrayed, seeks a violent revenge.

MadMax

October 16 at 8 p.m. (George Miller, AUS, 1979) with Mel Gibson,

ThePiano

November 6 at 8 p.m. (Jane Campion, AUS/NZ, 1993) with Holly Hunter, Harvey Keitel, Sam Neill, Anna Paquin Set in New Zealand in the nineteenth century, the film recounts the story of Ada, a mute Scottish woman, and her daughter Flora, who travel to New Zealand when Ada is married off to a landowner she has never met. Her sole salvation is her beloved piano, the mouthpiece for her thoughts and feelings, but when it is left abandoned on the wild New Zealand coast she is forced to win it back by bending to the affections of local outcast Baines. New Zealand’s moody landscape is as much a character in this film as its brilliant turns by Holly Hunter, Harvey Keitel and Anna Paquin, as the perfect backdrop to the film’s darkly passionate themes of love and betrayal. ScreeningsareinEnglish Tickets €5; reduced price for 60+years and students: €2.50.

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

NIGHTLIFE

Twice the nightlife scene

FRANCESCA LYNAGH

A common complaint among Florence’s American student population regarding clubs is that they sometimes feel overwhelmed by the lack of certain similarities to American nightlife. While they recognize that immersing oneself in another culture is one of the most important things to do while visiting the city, sometimes it can be comforting to be surrounded by people like yourself. The owners of Twice Club want their student clientele to feel comfortable and enjoy themselves when they visit, and in order to do so, they are offering international student nights on Tuesdays and Thursdays, where students can meet people like themselves. Luciano Purpi, one of the club’s owners, knows students and what they like, and makes a conscious effort to separate his club from all of the negative stereotypes about Florentine nightlife. Unlike most of the city’s similar establishments, Twice has a drink menu with varying prices, rather than simply charging €10 no matter what you order. “During the week, nearly 80 percent of our business comes from American students,” says Purpi. “We are not a snobby club; you’re just coming here to have fun.” All six of Twice’s owners are native Florentines with years of experience with nightlife promotion and club management. Another thing that sets their club

apart from the competition is the simple fact that it has never been shut down for problems such as drugs or violence. Twice Club Florence, located on Via Verdi 57/r, doesn’t have a cover charge, and offers open format hip- hop DJ sets on the weekends, house music on Thursdays and Latin nights every Wednesday. Twice is closed on Mondays until the summer.

Pizza and hamburgers around the clock

Where do you go when hunger strikes and all the bars are closed? Both Mr Pizza and Saloon Toscano are open until late with mouth-watering specialties to keep hunger pangs at bay. Located at Via Pietrapiana, 82 and Piazza del Duomo 5/r, Mr Pizza is open until 5 a.m. and offers a delivery service from 7–11 p.m, while Saloon Toscano on Via Verdi 47/r is open till 4 a.m. and serves up a range of specialty hamburgers. Mr Pizza is one of the few restaurants in the entire city that is open from daytime till the early hours of the morning. Its owner Luciano, a former nightclub employee himself, was inspired to open an alternative to the lack of late-night dining options available when he noticed that, after leaving the bars and clubs, many people were forced to go home with empty stomachs. Mr. Pizza is frequented by locals and tourists alike and serves a fresh and contempo-

rary menu sprinkled with Neapolitan classics. The interior features a pizza-themed color palette, with tomato-red frames on the wicker stools, cream-colored walls that nod to fields of well-tended wheat, and white accents along the door and walls that suggest fresh mozzarella cheese. The funky barrel-shaped tables are full of different types of pizza ingredients. “Mr. Pizza is a wonderful place for a casual date night or a meeting spot for friends, and is ideal for children as well,” says Luciano. The restaurant is centrally located in the historic Santa Croce district, not far from other points of interest, including the Duomo and Ponte Vecchio. For its prime location, the food is unbelievable value; according to Luciano, a diner can experience a satisfying meal for between €8 to €12. The restaurant is open for lunch beginning at 11 a.m., through dinner hours and all night until 5 a.m.

MR. PIZZA Via Pietrapiana 82 or Piazza Duomo 5/r Delivery service from 7 p.m. - 11 p.m. 055 38 60 311

OPEN UNTIL 4A.M.

TWICE CLUB

Free entrance for international students Saturday night is “HOTTEST SATURDAY”, with a large selection of dance and house music by DJ Andrea Martini. Karaoke every Thu. and Sat. night from 10:30 p.m. to 12:30 a.m.

Via Verdi 57/r

FREE ENTRANCE FOR INTERNATIONAL STUDENTS Tel. 055 24 76 356 - Info & Reservation: 348 47 72 096 - info@twiceclub.com

Florence Club weekly event schedule For 10 years Florenceclub has been one of the city’s leading organizers of parties and special events for young visitors, students and expats. For a small city that can be walked across in little more than 20 minutes, Florence has a wide range of bars, restaurants and nightclubs. We’re here to make sure that those of you looking for a party know exactly where to go every night of the week without the hassle of having to find the places yourself by trial and error. With everything from raucous beer pong tournaments to high-end outdoor nightclubs, Florenceclub have something for you.

Monday: Swagged-Up @ TwentyOne

Club TwentyOne has been a huge student spot for several years now, and Mondays are no different with the latest in hip-hop and R&B. With a large bar area, a great dance floor and one of the best sound systems in the city, Mondays are not to be missed. Free entry every week!

Tuesday: Beer Pong @ The Red Garter (via de' Benci, 33)

An institution for study abroad students for nearly 10 years, the weekly beer pong tournaments at Red Garter are not to be missed! The tournament is free to enter (sign up from 10 p.m. to 11 p.m.) and there are great prizes on offer (including one of their famous steak dinners)! Discounts on beer pitchers are also available to participants.

Thursday: Kiss @ Twice Club

(Via Giuseppe Verdi, 57/r) The biggest party of the summer at Blanco has moved indoors for the colder months. Twice is one of the oldest and most popular clubs in town. Two bars, a large dance floor, a great VIP area and free entry for international students every week. Grab your Kiss loyalty card on the night and take advantage of free gifts throughout the semester.

Saturday: Y.O.L.O. @ Full Up Club (via della Vigna Vecchia 23-25)

As one of Florence’s top student venues for the last five years, Full Up Club is one of the city’s top upscale clubs. With one of the best indoor VIP services, this is the perfect opportunity to party in style! Local DJs playing the best in hip-hop, house and commercial. Doors open at 11:30 p.m.

Wednesday: Student Night @ Blue Velvet

Sunday: N.F.L. @ Red Garter

(Via Castello d'Altafronte, 16/r) One of the city’s newest clubs, Blue Velvet on Wednesdays has become established as one of the top fashion venues in the city. Wednesday nights are exclusively for students, entry is free and the doors open at 11:30 p.m. Resident and guest DJs playing the best in hip-hop and R&B every week!

Over the last few years Red Garter has established itself as the only place to watch your Sunday football, with up to 10 screens playing eight games a night and the most famous American food in the city. Choose from wings, ribs, tacos, burgers and much, much more. Reservations advised!

(via de' Benci, 33)

For more information on any of these nights or to make reservations for buses/tables, simply call 342 84 21 509.

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

SPORT & LEISURE

Tour d’Inconvenience

Fun in Tuscany on horseback

When A to B could only be achieved by going via Z 50 meters from the start line. We also have Andrew Shepherd to admire the dedication of many of the supAs pretty much everyone who at some point porters, some of whom had travelled halfway tried to get from A to B between September 22 around the world armed with the replica team and 29 knows, the UCI Road World Champi- jersey of their favourite rider, simply to catch onships recently took place in Florence. Yes, a two-second glimpse of them going by. And this year the biggest stage on the world cycling so it’s with a presumably ill-informed, somecircuit (no homophone intended) came to us, what apologetic amount of cynicism that I and with them came 60,000 die-hard cycling can’t help but wonder why people would spend fans and 57 kilometers of potentially thousands of iron railings. Locals have clearly embraced euros to watch merely a As an economic considthe championships ... evident glimpse of their favourite eration, the results were sport in the current age undoubtedly fruitful, not- from the huge increase in peo- of TV coverage. For most withstanding the many ple out riding in their multi-col- people, watching a sport businesses along the route ored replica jerseys. live comes down to atmowho suffered a drop in sphere and the ability to custom. From a sociological point of view, the watch events unfold in full, often providing a effects were comical. From a spectatorship better experience than watching on TV. standpoint, I for one couldn’t help but be a little With that in mind, I can’t help but wonder what confused. it is road cycling enthusiasts get out of it that Firstly, I don’t think there’s anybody who many of us don’t. Still, judging by the paintcould question the superhuman fitness, endur- ed faces and emptied bank accounts, there’s ance and dedication of the participants. It was something there. I can only presume that inamazing to see riders whizzing past followed side many of us there is a hole that can only closely by their team car going at what seemed be filled by attendance at road cycling competo be normal speed. Yes, these guys and girls titions. are able to ride literally across an entire region, And then there was the reaction of our beloved all the while staying in front of a car going at Florentines. There are undoubtedly precious 30–40mph. I doubt I could even slowly walk few people who were able to make their way that far without needing to sit down several around the city during the week without havtimes along the way. ing to take something of a detour, all at some Even on a bike, the car would’ve run me over point having come to disappointedly accept

dertaken in groups of maximum eight people, and cater to the interests of the group. Private time is provided so that people can explore the place themselves, yet the option is available to follow an organiser if they so wish. In this way, the group and the tour have a very intimate and personal feel, and you really gain the strong impression that the organisers are truly interested in you as people, instead of simply tourists and clients. They took us to places I would never have been able to find myself if I was organising a personal trip; such as a gelateria that has twice won the Gelato World Championships in San Gimignano. They were incredibly obliging to our requests and questions and refreshingly knowledgeable. What I loved seeing most was that they really were enjoying themselves on the tour along with us – having true, genuine Fun in Tuscany.

Ivana Scatola

the fact that A to B could only be achieved by going via Z. This, however, was made all the more durable by becoming a spectator to an entirely different kind of event along the way: a small but conspicuous element of indignant locals with no interest in cycling, remonstrating with apologetic police officers and events staff. I for one was lucky enough to witness a drunken lunatic on a bike screaming at police officers before attempting to make his own claim to the the Men’s Elite Time Trial crown, before being inauspiciously stopped by the next group of police officers 10 meters down the road. Add to this everything from angry people forced to be late to work to older residents who were upset simply because it was a disruption to their regular routine. On the flip side of this, many locals have clearly embraced the event, as is evident from the huge increase in people out riding in their multi-coloured replica jerseys (kind of like in England when everyone decides they’re an amazing tennis player during Wimbledon). So, as locals both Florentine and foreign, how should we view that week in hindsight? As a fantastic spectacle that honoured the city, benefited the economy through tourism and brought a little welcome distraction to our day, or as a presumptuous intrusion into our daily lives that did nothing more than damage many local businesses along the route, thus negating any other economic benefits? I’ll leave that for you to decide.

Having explored Tuscany on horseback, the only way this experience could compare would be experiencing it via Vespa or quad bike – two options that tour operator Fun in Tuscany offers as well. The day was jam-packed with new experiences, beautiful sights and tastes, and a wonderful group of people: unquestionably one of the best I’ve had in Tuscany yet. After a hack through a beautiful Tuscan forest that weaved in and out of vineyards (where both my horse and I paused to sample some fresh Chianti grapes), we tasted the range of gorgeous homemade honey. We then went on to the ancient hilltop town of San Gimignano (built in 1300), where we experienced incredible gelato and stunning Tuscan views, before moving onto a restaurant villa in which we were given a private room and a traditional Tuscan three-course meal to accompany our wine-tasting (of which we sampled 11!). Fun In Tuscany’s success is attributed to the fact that the tour is unlike other typical, ‘supermarket tourism’ tour organisers. All tours are un-

Book your tour with

www.funintuscany.com

Keep up with Fiorentina’s games at the stadium Fortune has not been smiling on Fiorentina lately. After the injury of German striker Mario Gomez in September, the Florentine soccer team lost against Inter Milan and tied with Parma at the very last second of the game on September 30. This month is essential to maintain credentials in order to to qualify for one of the first three spots in the league. Fiorentina plays Juventus on October 20 and Napoli on October 30. Tickets can be purchased from When In Florence on 055 38 60 864 and here is a guide on how to get to the stadium: ON FOOT: Start on the north side of the Ponte Vecchio. Head east until the parallel street finally turns into Lungarno Pecori Giraldi. Turn left at Viale Giovanni Amendola, past the roundabout and then right onto Via Giuseppe Mazzino. This street takes you to Campo di Marte train station; cross the footbridge over the tracks and follow the road for one block down Viale Manfredo Fanit until you arrive at the stadium. If you start near Piazza Repubblica, go down Via degli Speziali and head east on the same street which will turn into, in order, Via del Corso, Borgo degli Albizi, Via Pietrapiana and then Borgo la Croce. You will meet a roundabout on Viale Giovanni Amendola; go left onto Via Giuseppe Mazzino and

onto the footbridge at Campo di Marte station mentioned above. Continue with the same directions described above. BY SHUTTLE BUS: Bus no. 52 runs services from Piazza Stazione at Santa Maria Novella train station during the two hours preceding the game. The same shuttle runs return services up to an hour after the game finishes. From Rifredi train station take bus no. 54.

FIORENTINA GAMES

Dnipro-Fiorentina (European League): Thursday, Oct. 3 at 9:05 p.m. Fiorentina-Juventus (league): Sunday, Oct. 20 at 3 p.m. Fiorentina-Pandurii (European League): Thursday, Oct. 24 at 9:05 p.m Fiorentina-Napoli (league): Wednesday, Oct. 30 at 8:45 p.m. Fiorentina-Sampdoria (league): Sunday, Nov. 10 at 8:45 p.m.

ITALYS OLDEST AMERICAN BAR ESTABLISHED 1962

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Finnegan Irish Pub is the only Irish-owned pub in Florence and hosts live music every weekend, regular quiz nights and student discounts on Tuesdays. Patrons can enjoy outdoor seating nine months of the year, while sports fans are spoilt for choice with dedicated coverage of English and Scottish premiership football, Irish and English internationals, as well as rugby, Formula One and American football. Friendly expat staff ensure a warm and relaxed atmosphere in which to gather, sip Guinness and “have the craic.”

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Brand new gym in heart of Florence is now open.

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Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

STUDENT tRAVEL

Chocoholics on standby for Perugia’s Eurochocolate Festival

Juliet Stephenson

It’s that time of year again: the 20th annual Eurochocolate Festival is just around the corner. The festival is held from October 18–27 in downtown Perugia. People have been flocking to Perugia for the festival since the early 1990s, which usually draws about one million tourists and Italian natives each year. The streets of Perugia are covered in dozens of carts and small shops all selling chocolate. Not just run-of-the-mill chocolate, but different flavors such as cherry, coconut, orange, hazelnut, mint, and many more. The festival also features hot chocolate, chocolate liquor, and chocolate kebabs. Furthermore, visitors will able to see the Perugina chocolate factory, where tours are avail-

able in English and Italian. There will also be various countries’ wares on display at the factory, as well as chocolate samplings. It doesn’t stop there, though. The festival also has banquets, cooking classes, exhibitions, internships, workshops and the highly anticipated Eurochocolate Awards. There will be chocolate art displays, experimental chocolate tastings, and chocolate sculpting. In the past, there has also been an opportunity to book a chocolate spa day. The theme of this year’s festival is ‘Evergreen: the sweetness of being sustainable’, which promotes both freshness and eco-sustainability. All companies contributing to the event are involved in concrete efforts towards sustainability, and the 2013 fair aims for zero environmental impact.

In 2003, the world’s largest chocolate bar was constructed at the festival. It was more than seven meters long, two meters high, and comprised 5980 kilograms of chocolate and thousands of hazelnuts. Admission to the fair is free and chocophiles can also buy the Chococard to take advantage of discounts, free samples from vendors, and a chance to win prizes in the Chococard Competition.

Eurochocolate Festival

October 18–27 Mon–Fri & Sun: 9 a.m.–8 p.m. Sat: 9 a.m.–11 p.m. www.eurochocolate.com/perugia2013

BEER HOUSE CLUB NEAR SANTA CROCE

AWARD-WINNING ARTISAN BEER IN THE CENTER

THE BAR YOUR MOM WARNED YOU ABOUT

Beer House Club was one of the first artisan pubs in the city of Florence. A few steps from Santa Croce is the true temple of craft beer, with 10 draft beers, three hand pumps and more than 150 bottled labels from all over the world. BHC is also the ideal place to eat sandwiches, fries, pasta and more or spend a few hours with friends playing darts or table football, and enjoy free Wi-Fi, musical events and more.

Mostodolce craft brewery was the first of its kind to open in Prato and now supplies twin pubs in Prato and Florence with its award-winning artisan beer. From pitch-black stout to honey beer and a seasonal Christmas variety made from chestnuts, Mostodolce’s range appeals to the most earthy and subtle of palates. Match your choice with complementary dishes created in the pub kitchen: from the hefty flavours of smoked ribs and tortelloni with wild boar ragout to light snacks and the intriguingly named ‘birramisu’.

The newly reopened Jack is ready to rock ‘n’ roll! Come by for lunch or dinner and try the revamped menu featuring traditional Italian food and American staples. Enjoy live music, DJ sets and the costume parties that Jack has become famous for, as well as two HD screens showcasing special sporting events. If all that Italian espresso just isn’t hitting the mark, drop by One-Eyed Jack’s to enjoy American coffee with a free refill between 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. Free wifi is also available.

Open every day from 6 p.m. – late.

Corso dei Tintori, 34/r 055 24 76 763 www.beerhouseclub.it

Opening hours: Daily from 11 a.m – 2 a.m. Via Nazionale, 114/r 055 23 02 928 www.mostodolce.it info@mostodolce.it

Opening hours: Daily from 11 a.m. – 2 a.m.

Piazza Nazario Sauro, 2/r 055 09 44 561 www.thejackpub.com info@thejackpub.com

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

STUDENT TRAVEL

Take the Eastern Loop through Europe with Bus2Alps

Whilst you’re over here in Italy, you should take advantage of the opportunity to not only visit the rest of this beautiful country, but also those in the surrounding European countries that are on your doorstep. Make the most of it while you’re here and see as much as you can – who knows when you’ll next be over in this part of the world? After all, travel broadens the mind. The west of Europe holds some incredible sights, but how about the other side? Europe’s east has emerged as one of the most chosen holiday and travelling destinations in the last several years; rich in culture and stunning landscapes, it is far less populated by tourists – and what’s more, it is definitely easier on the wallet than its western counterpart. Prague, Ljubljana, Budapest and Krakow are the forerunners in this new-wave European tourist destination, yet reaching them all and travelling from one to the other can be hard to organise and navigate yourself. For this reason, Bus2Alps has organised a 10day trip through six countries, with day stops in four of the biggest cities, and accommodation and travel arranged for you. Visit Lake Bled

and Bled Castle in Slovenia, thermal baths and caves in Budapest, experience Krakow nightlife, and go on a walking tour and discover John Paul II’s home, as well as Europe’s largest market square. In Prague you can explore the Old Town, New Town and the Jewish Quarter, John Lennon Wall, and an infamous beer hall where you can also try a three-course traditional Czech meal. Your tour guide will take you on the Clocktower Bar Crawl which ends at one of Prague’s biggest underground clubs, open till dawn! Take a sobering moment to reflect on modern history at the Auschwitz and Birkenau camps. There are also opportunities to have days and afternoons to yourself, where you can shop, collect souvenirs to take home, rent a bike or simply wander around beautiful streets. With the benefit of a Bus2Alps guide to accompany you on your trip, you won’t have to worry about organising anything yourself or, more importantly, missing anything! Your guide can provide helpful recommendations for food or nightlife and help you really make the most of local culture. Simultaneously, you are given the chance to explore the cities independently

as well. You have the option of departing on buses leaving from either Florence or Rome, or even making your own way and meeting the rest of the group in Ljubljana, if you prefer. This trip is designed to meet in Ljubljana on Thursday after 4 p.m. and depart from Prague the following Sunday. You also have the option to depart from Florence or Rome and end in Prague. Seewww.bus2alps.com/en/ forfullinformation.

• • • • • • •

included:

Round-trip transportation by private luxury coach with DVD, A/C and bathroom; Top-rated accommodation with your friends; Breakfast; Walking tours in Prague, Budapest, Krakow, and Ljubljana; Exclusive Bus2alps discounts on additional tours and pub crawls; Bus2alps trip leader; Bus2alps destination guide.

Florence News & Events October 2013 No. 2

TRAVEL