Notizie News Annarita Pilotti Presidente di Assocalzaturifici
“Orgogliosa di questa prestigiosa carica”
92
Men’s Shoes
94
Anteprima collezioni Primavera Estate 2016
Annarita Pilotti, president of Assocalzaturifici
“Proud to be in the prestigious role of President”
22 Dino Bigioni 63812 MONTEGRANARO (FM) ITALIA Via Marco Biagi, 3 Tel. +39 0734 891259 Fax +39 0734 898545 www.dinobigioni.it info@dinobigioni.it
Assemblea Giovani Assocalzaturifici
Made in Italy in the limelight
26
L’Assemblea Generale di Acrib
In vista della fusione con Confindustria Venezia
The General Assembly of Acrib
In light of the merger with Confindustria Venezia
30
40 years of close collaboration with “Made in Italy” footwear
34
Progetto social
Loriblu entra nel social… Experience Social project
Loriblu enters into a social… Experience
Direttore responsabile: Carlo Alberto Molteni Publishing director: Lorenzo Raggi Consultant editor: Rino Panseri Art director: Eros Badin Editorial staff: Erika Alberti - Barbara Solini Graphics and production: Pier Luigi Fasolin - Rosanna Villa Graphic design: Elleci di Luigi Chiesa Photo: Matteo Galuzzi, Roberto Broggi, Ivano De Pinto Promotion manager: Filippo Crepaldi Promotion: Edoardo Sonzogni International promotion: Gabriella Laino, Enza Masotti Chinese market promotion: Fengqing Li Public relations: Pier Nicola Fascetto Promotion coordinator: Elisa Trasi Printing: Arti Grafiche La Milanesa (Rho - MI)
Per 40 anni al fianco del “made in Italy” calzaturiero Vittorio Honegger, pioneer in the international world of trade fairs
1° Supplemento a Idea Pelle n. 4 SETTEMBRE 2015 NUOVA EDITORIALE DI FOTO SHOE SRL Via Leonardo da Vinci, 43 20090 Trezzano S/Naviglio (MI) - Italy Tel. +39/02.4459091 r.a. Fax +39/02.48402959 www.fotoshoe.com info@fotoshoe.com
Vittorio Honegger pioniere nel mondo fieristico internazionale
36
When tradition goes online
Denis Club: the online sales channel makes its debut
46
Anteprima collezioni Primavera Estate 2016
Estate di colore
Spring-Summer 2016 Collections Preview
Summer of colors
European Shoe Press Association
Associato all’Unione Stampa Periodica Italiana
Sole Agent for Distribution Abroad: A.I.E. Agenzia Italiana di Esportazione S.r.l. Via Manzoni, 12 - 20089 Rozzano (MI) Italy Ph.: +39/02.5753911 Fax +39/02.57512606 Socio USPI - Aut. del trib. n. 374 del 3/7/1995 Poste italiane Spa Sped. in abb. post -70% - DCB Milano È vietata la riproduzione senza autorizzazione dei testi e delle immagini. Il trattamento dei dati personali dei destinatari di Passion è svolto nel rispetto della Legge 675/96 sulla Privacy. È possibile chiedere la modifica o la cancellazione dei propri dati indirizzando la richiesta a: Nuova Editoriale di Foto Shoe srl a socio unico sede di Via Leonardo da Vinci, 43 20090 Trezzano sul Naviglio - Milano - Italy ai numeri di fax e di posta elettronica sopraindicati.
Sommario.indd 11
84
The new dandy
114
GDN Mirage
Estate in tutta freschezza A completely fresh summer
86
Dino Bigioni
88
Galizio Torresi
Rigore classico e innovazione contemporanea Classic sobriety and contemporary innovation Tra vintage e sporty-chic Between vintageand sporty-chic
Anteprima collezioni Primavera Estate 2016 Spring-Summer 2016 Collections Preview
Mini sneakers and more
118 126 128 130 132 134
Quando la tradizione va in rete
Denis Club: debutta il sito di vendita on line
Il nuovo dandy
Spring-Summer 2016 Collections Preview
Made in Italy in primo piano The Assocalzaturifici Young Entrepreneurs’ Assembly
L’arte del mocassino The art of moccasins
138
Pitti Uomo
Color and energy theMicam
Tutte le novità dell’80ma edizione All the novelties of the 80th edition Obuv
L’appuntamento strategico per il made in Italy The strategic appointment for Made in Italy Moda Made in Italy
Fissate le date fino al 2017 The show dates of the next editions set until 2017 Fashion Access
Appuntamento con il total look The Total Look at Fashion Access Mosshoes
Appuntamento con i grossisti e le catene The appointment with wholesalers and retail chains White
Nasce Only Woman Only Woman debuts
SOMMARIO • CONTENTS
12 18
04/08/15 23.02
12
Passion
News • Notizie
Geox, English style, Italian technology
a.testoni: contemporary liveliness Fresh and innovative, the new men’s collection branded a.testoni for the Spring-Summer 2016 proposes lively combinations and unique matching elements with a contemporary flair. Washed buffalo with a vintage effect, precious delavé calfskin with antique-effects done by hand, new suede calfskin patent leather, delicate calfskin with linen effects, and optical nappa are the materials characterizing the collection, which is expressed in a palette of vitamin tones that range from yellow grapefruit and lagoon turquoise, to Pompeii red and denim blue.
Breathing Technology applied to the masculine formal, in combination with a new “leather patent”, characterize the Monkstrap Geox line. The timeless model of Brit tradition, Monkstrap Geox, unites a dandy spirit with patented Geox technology, ensuring the maximum level of breathability and water-resistance, as an index of unbeatable comfort. Made of high quality calfskin, which has been tanned and elaborated with Italian craft workmanship and interpreted through tapered and elongated lines, Monkstrap Geox is expressed in classic tones, such as black, burnt brown, and dark brown/hazelnut brown. These ideal accessories are perfect for both the workplace and the evening, and the brogue version with single buckle is the preferred choice of young gentlemen, who are in search of an equilibrium between classic elegance and a casual mood.
Geox, stile inglese, tecnologia italiana La Breathing Technology applicata al formale maschile con il nuovo “brevetto cuoio” caratterizza la linea Monkstrap Geox. Modello intramontabile della tradizione brit, Monkstrap Geox unisce lo spirito dandy alla tecnologia brevettata Geox, assicurando il massimo livello di traspirabilità e impermeabilità, indice di un confort insuperabile. Realizzata in vitello d’alta qualità, conciato e lavorato artigianalmente in Italia e interpretato da linee affusolate e allungate, Monkstrap Geox si declina nei toni classici del nero, del marrone bruciato, del testa di moro/nocciola. Ideali accessori per il look da lavoro così come da sera, in versione brogue con mono-fibbia sono la scelta preferita dei giovani gentleman che cercano un equilibrio tra eleganza classica e tendenza disinvolta.
a.testoni: vivacità contemporanea Fresca e innovativa, la nuova collezione uomo di a.testoni per la Primavera-Estate 2016 propone vivaci combinazioni ed abbinamenti inediti dal flair contemporaneo. Il bufalo washed dall’effetto vintage, i preziosi vitelli delavé anticati a mano, il nuovo vitello scamosciato verniciato, il delicato vitello effetto lino e la nappa optical sono i materiali che caratterizzano la collezione, declinata in una palette vitaminica con toni dal giallo pompelmo e il turchese lagoon, al rosso pompei e l’azzurro denim.
News.indd 12
03/08/15 14.30
Montelpare opens its showroom in Milan
Castori fusion & sneaker Evolving worlds and interweaving cultures inspire the SS 2016 collection by Castori, which is characterized by the key word “Fusion”. Thus, the maison of masculine luxury footwear makes its proposals through materials that are linked to the theme of traveling and nature (suede, nubuck, vegetable-tanned leathers, weavings of calfskin, canvas, and raffia), merging them with new minimal patterns, and using innovative workmanship techniques, distinctive shades, and experimentations with color. The structures are comfortable, the cuts are performing, and the toes are squared and elegant. With the arrival of the SS season, also the line of sneakers debuts, renewing the same quality and artisanal construction of the classic style in its content, as part of a look that is classy, but also striking at the same time.
The Andrea Montelpare luxury maison opens a new showroom in the extremely central location of San Babila, Milan, in via Pietro Mascagni 15. The space, fully operative since June 29th, offers the ideal setting for the presentation of brands produced and distributed by this leading Italian footwear group in the luxury segment of childrenswear. The 450 sq. meters of the showroom is the perfect setting for showcasing the directly owned collections (Andrea Montelpare, AM66, Montelpare Tradition, and Bumper) and the 12 licensed brands (Simonetta, Cesare Paciotti, Diesel, DSquared2, 4US Cesare Paciotti, From The World by Stefano Cavalleri, GF Ferré, Ice Iceberg, John Galliano Kids, Mi.Mi.Sol, Quis Quis by Stefano Cavalleri, and Roberto Cavalli). “With this showroom we are even more
Andrea Montelpare
focused on our partners and international clientele”, - declares Andrea Montelpare, founder and CEO of the company, “ taking an approach of constant growth on an international level in the European, Middle Eastern, Asian, and North and South American areas”.
Montelpare apre il suo showroom a Milano Castori fusion & sneaker Mondi in evoluzione, culture che si intrecciano ispirano la collezione PE 2016 di Castori la cui parola chiave è “Fusione”. La maison della calzatura maschile di lusso declina così le proposte con materiali legati al tema del viaggio e della natura (camosci, nabuk, pelli vegetali, vitelli intrecciati, canvas e rafia) e li fonde con nuove geometrie minimal, tecniche di lavorazione innovative, sfumature decise e sperimentazioni di colore. Le strutture sono confortevoli, i tagli performanti e le punte squadrate ed eleganti. Con la PE debutta anche la linea di sneaker che rinnovano nei contenuti la stessa qualità e costruzione artigianale del classico, sfoggiando un look di classe ma al tempo stesso accattivante.
La maison del lusso Andrea Montelpare apre un nuovo showroom nella centralissima zona di San Babila, a Milano, in via Pietro Mascagni 15. Lo spazio, operativo dal 29 giugno, offrirà la cornice ideale per la presentazione dei brand prodotti e distribuiti dal gruppo calzaturiero italiano leader nel segmento lusso del mercato bambino. 450 mq di esposizione per ammirare le collezioni di proprietà (Andrea Montelpare, AM66, Montelpare Tradition, Bumper) e i 12 maschi in licenza (Simonetta, Cesare
Paciotti, Diesel, DSquared2, 4US Cesare Paciotti, From The World by Stefano Cavalleri, GF Ferré, Ice Iceberg, John Galliano Kids, Mi.Mi. Sol, Quis Quis by Stefano Cavalleri, Roberto Cavalli). “Con questo showroom siamo ancora più proiettati verso i nostri partner e Clienti internazionali,- dichiara Andrea Montelpare, fondatore e Ad dell’azienda - in una logica di continua crescita a livello internazionale nelle aree Europa, Medio Oriente, Asia, America del Nord e del Sud”.
13
News.indd 13
03/08/15 14.30
14
Passion
News • Notizie
Vittorio Spernanzoni: 50 years between tradition and innovation Vittorio Spernanzoni celebrates its 50th anniversary with a SS 2016 collection perfectly balanced between tradition and innovation. Inspired by Mediterranean tones and a sophisticated classic style that has always identified the creations of this Marches brand, the new models recall the iconic ones of the past in a perfect combination of craft workmanship, quality materials, and natural colors. Soft leathers, suedes, and weavings, with ornamental stitching in a Norwegian style and Bentivegna construction, exalt the elongated and round shapes that are a hallmark of the Vittorio Spernanzoni world. Additionally, the Goodyear Welted construction is made lightweight, guaranteeing style and absolute comfort for the summer season.
Womsh, sneakers for the eco-friendly man Fashion yes, but with awareness. Those who love a relaxed but elegant look, with full respect for the environment, choose Womsh sneakers. Innovative and sophisticated, but also recyclable, with zero environmental impact: Womsh shoes feature a bold design that is also polished. They are entirely Made in Italy with first choice leathers and suedes of the finest quality and are recyclable. At the end of their lifecycle, they can also contribute to the realization of the Gardens of Betty project, which creates playgrounds for children with anti-slip pavements made from old recycled gym shoes. Choosing a path of awareness with respect for the environment: additionally, Womsh adheres to Impatto Zero® [Zero Impact] and counters the CO2 emissions generated by its production with the creation of wooded areas in Italy.
Vittorio Spernanzoni 50 anni tra tradizione e innovazione Vittorio Spernanzoni festeggia il suo 50 anniversario con una collezione PE 2016 in perfetto equilibrio tra tradizione e innovazione. Ispirata alle
News.indd 14
tonalità mediterranee e allo stile classico raffinato che da sempre contraddistinguono le creazioni del marchio marchigiano, i nuovi modelli rievocano quelli iconici del passato in una combinazione perfetta di artigianalità, qualità dei materiali e colorazioni naturali. Morbidi pellami, scamosciati e intrecciati con cuciture ornamentali in stile norvegese e bentivegna risaltano le forme allungate e rotonde cifra del mondo Vittorio Spernanzoni. Si alleggerisce la costruzione Goodyear Welted garantendo alla stagione estiva stile e confort assoluti.
Womsh, sneaker per l’uomo “green” Moda sì, ma con consapevolezza. Chi ama un look decontratto ma elegante, nel rispetto dell’ambiente, sceglie le sneaker Womsh. Innovative e ricercate, ma anche riciclabili e ad impatto zero: le Womsh hanno un design grintoso ma allo stesso tempo raffinato. Sono realizzate interamente in Italia con l’utilizzo di pellami e camosci di prima qualità e sono riciclabili. Alla fine del loro ciclo di vita, possono contribuire alla realizzazione dei Giardini di Betty ovvero la creazione di parchi giochi per bambini realizzati con pavimenti anticaduta generati da vecchie scarpe da ginnastica riciclate. Sceglierle è un atto di consapevolezza nei confronti dell’ambiente: in più, Womsh aderisce a Impatto Zero® e compensa le emissioni di CO2 generate da tutti i modelli con la creazione di zone boschive in Italia.
03/08/15 14.30
16
Passion
News • Notizie
raparo the luXury of simplicity Basic lines, simple shapes, and a careful selection of luxury materials: this is how Raparo, the Made in Italy brand of luxury footwear, interprets the coming SS 2016 season, featuring saturated colors, which are clean, warm, and luminous, and “rigid” metalizzations cushioned by technological suggestions that generate a tech note in this handcrafted world. Classic models are renewed through special techniques, including an unusual weaving of fascinating chiaro/scuro effects. Luminous leathers highlight a modern ethnic style. Attention is placed on details, typical of the world of selleria leather, and is interpreted through an almost obsessive fixation on the finishing of all the various elements… The atout of an ethnic-chic style that is luxuriously simple.
loUis leeMan, among the brands of pitti italics Louis Leeman, the Tuscan luxury footwear and accessories brand, proposes its new SS 2016 collection at Palazzo Pandolfini, as part of the Pitti Italics program of Pitti Uomo 88. Characterized by a contemporary twist and timeless elegance, the collection is fruit of the very best craft workmanship: “Presenting our collection as part of the Pitti Italics program in Florence, a symbol of the Renaissance, and in our new headquarters located in the historical palace of Palazzo Pandolfini, has been a great emotion for us”, - confirm Erica Pelosini and Louis Leeman, the creative directors of Louis Leeman, - “this is how we celebrated the fourth anniversary of our brand, celebration dedicated to Tuscan traditional craft workmanship, which has always been a strong source of inspiration for us”.
loUis leeMan tra i pitti italics Louis Leeman il brand di calzature e accessori lusso toscano espone la nuova PE 2016 a Palazzo Pandolfini nell’ambito del progetto Pitti Italics di Pitti Uomo 88. Caratterizzata dal twist contemporaneo e l’eleganza senza tempo, la collezione è frutto della migliore maestria artigiana: “È stata per noi una grande emozione presentare la nostra collezione all’interno del programma Pitti Italics a Firenze, luogo simbolo del Rinascimento, e nel nostro nuovo head-quarter nello storico Palazzo Pandolfini - affermano Erica Pelosini e Louis Leeman, direttori creativi di Louis Leeman - abbiamo festeggiato così il quarto anniversario del nostro brand, una celebrazione della tradizione artigianale toscana, da sempre forte elemento d’ispirazione per noi.”
raparo il lusso della semplicità Linee pure, forme semplici e una attenta ricerca di materiali lussuosi: così Raparo, brand made in italy di calzature lusso, interpreta la prossima PE 2016 tra colori saturi, netti, caldi e luminosi, metallizzati “rigidi” smorzati da interventi tecnologici che apportano una nota tech al suo mondo artigianale. Modelli classici rinnovati da lavorazioni, come insoliti intrecci dagli affascinanti effetti chiaro/scuro. Pellami luminosi ad esaltare l’etnico moderno. Attenzione per i dettagli tipica del mondo selleria tradotta in una maniacale finitura delel lavorazioni…. Atout di una collezione ethno chic lussuosamente semplice.
News.indd 16
03/08/15 14.30
theMICAM Milano Pad. 3 路 Stand Q07 www.accademiashoes.it accademiasrl@libero.it
18
Passion
From companies/Aziende
Annarita Pilotti, President of Assocalzaturifici
“Proud to be in the prestigious role of President”
A
A woman at the head of Assocalzaturifici: what does this represent for you? Is it also an acknowledgement for all those women who have made and continue to make great efforts in departments where the majority of workers are women? ‘Becoming President of Assocalzaturifici is an extremely important achievement, an achievement I would never have been able to reach, if not thanks to the support of the Committee colleagues, who voted me in with a majority of 80%. It is a source of great pride for me to take on this role, also in consideration of the fact that I am the first woman to be elected. I worked with great effort and passion to achieve this result and now intend to add to these achievements by making full use of my experience and expertise
Pilotti.indd 18
Annarita Pilotti, newly elected President of Assocalzaturifici, speaks to us of her new role, of the problems the sector will have to overcome, and the role of theMICAM. in this field, thus promoting the Association, as only us women are capable of doing. From the very beginning, I was fully welcomed, regardless of my gender, and I will do my best to represent the interests of my colleagues and give voice to Italian footwear companies worldwide. I know what it is like to be in a company every day; I know the kind of work that goes into each shoe, from the design to production, all the way up to sales. It is a job that I love and a field where I have been actively present in first person every day for the last twenty years. I have faced difficulties created by moments of crisis and I am familiar with the problems of doing business in this sector, because it has been part of my day-to-day life for some time now. I have also succeeded in reconciling my job with my role as a mother and wife. I believe this is the strength of us women’. Does Made in Italy still represent an added value for
Italian footwear? ‘The search for new markets and internationalization are certainly the main instruments in guaranteeing growth for our businesses. We are already famous worldwide for the quality and beauty of our products, which are characterized by a creativity that we are envied for on an international level. However, today, this is no longer enough, because an increasingly globalized world forces us to carry out new strategies, and so, we can no longer be isolated in our uniqueness, but must now open ourselves up to new scenarios and new ways of doing business. We must increasingly put into effect more effective policies of investment of an international scope, using instruments like communication, advertising, reinforcement of direct distribution with flagship stores, and the development of e-commerce. Great efforts must be made, as part of a
great challenge with one unified structure, for the re-launching of our brands and Made in Italy worldwide’. What are the most difficult battles that must be fought by your Association? ‘One of the fundamental themes of my mandate will be the protection of ‘Made In’, which has made our sector one of the linchpins of fashion and of international taste worldwide. Protecting Italian products and manufacturers is one of my main objectives: to this end, we will reinforce activities of representation, so that the interests of our sector can be expressed with greater strength and effectiveness on both a national and international level. The mandatory Made In label is essential to our sector and to promoting Italian footwear production. For this reason, it is one of the battles that is central to my program. I will continue to move forward with the work done up until now by
04/08/15 14.10
Senza titolo-1 1
22/04/15 10.08