FRINGE Magazine - Issue 1 by FRINGE Magazine

â&#x201A;¬9.50 ISSUE 1, VOLUME 1

Dylan Bradshaw TALKS SHOP

PLUS: Paul Hession | Katherine Sweeney | Ken West

DISCOVER THE DEMI New from Paul MitchellÂŽ Professional Hair Color A perfect fusion of shine, condition and coverage from Paul MitchellÂŽ Professional Hair Color. Create rich, vibrant colour that lasts 4-6 weeks. To find out what The Demi can do for your Salon call the friendly team at National Beauty Distribution on (021) 4217482. For more information email - info@nationalbeauty.ie www.nationalbeauty.ie

KEY FEATURES & BENEFITS MORE SHINE The Demi conditions hair while it colours, providing incredibly rich results with beautiful shine GENTLE CONDITIONING FORMULA Deposit-only, ammonia-free colour is exceedingly gentle and offers outstanding condition PERFECT GEL CONSISTENCY Liquid colour mixes to a perfect gel consistency that’s ideal for both bottle and brush application LONG-LASTING Rich, vibrant colour lasts 4 to 6 weeks 27 INTERMIXABLE SHADES For unlimited customisation and more varied shade options with depth and/or translucency.

TOP 10 REASONS WHY YOU WILL LOVE THE DEMI Colour without the commitment – guests can change their colour every time they visit your salon Incredible vibrancy – guests won’t believe it’s demi-permanent Quick and easy to use Simple application – no mess Transform dull colour Tones lightened hair brilliantly Adds rich shine Refines hair texture leaving hair smooth and silky Beautiful grey blending with an opaque finish.

Available in the best salons worldwide, KEVIN.MURPHY is distributed in Ireland by National Beauty Distribution. For details or to become a stockist contact +353 21 4217482 or info@nationalbeauty.ie www.loveKMireland.com

/loveKMireland

@loveKMireland

Hot Right Now The products you need to know about

Cover Star Witty and winning, Dylan Bradshaw tells all

Singular Style Industry expert Sue Remes on finding your salon’s secret weapon

Instagram Greats Session stylist Trudy Hayes shares her hashtag heroes

Term Time Training and education courses, on and offline

In The Chair Nadine Quinn of The Space talks inspiration and innerstrength

Blown Away Exciting interiors from Dublin’s newest blowdry bar

Beauty Counter New beauty buys to boost your retail revenue

Lightbulb Moment Preen’s Katherine Sweeney on communication and career wins

Trending Statement cuts from Wella Professionals Global Creative Director, Eugene Souleiman

Cutting Crew Chop chop, it’s the new tool round-up

Ask The Expert Expert and coach, 365 Salon Education’s Ken West makes the case for change

Mansplaining Aveda Artist Jon Reyman breaks down his SS17 boyish braids

Victory Lap Meet the winners of the AlfaParf Milano Fantastic Hairdresser Awards

Final Cut Renowned stylist Paul Hession shares his mistakes and memories

Editor Tara Corristine

Art Director Colm Lougheed

Publishers Kieran Walsh and Will McCreevey

Photography Lili Forberg misslili.net

Contributors Sue Remes Ken West

@Fringe-Magazine @FringeHQ @FringeHQ Fringehq.com

For advertising queries, please email Tara@fringehq.com or call 021 421 7482

FRINGE MAGAZINE

CONTENTS

#MITCHTHEMAN

Featuring Angus Mitchell

STYLE ISN’T

BORN. IT’S

GROOMED. Created just for guys; MITCH® commands maximum grooming power for the modern man. l

Concentrated, high-performance products

Complete range of finishes from matte to high shine

Colour-coded packaging for easy hold factor selection

TRULY PROFESSIONAL

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MITCH®

OFFICIALLY COOL

To discover what a trusted brand like could do for your male grooming business, call the team on 0845 659 0011

Find us on

and

at Paul Mitchell UK

www.paul-mitchell.co.uk/MITCH

Henry Ford said you can do anything if you have the enthusiasm for it and in the first issue of Fringe magazine, we have gathered a fantastic group of cheerleaders for the Irish hair industry. Our cover star, Dylan Bradshaw, believes Irish hairdressing is the best in Europe, if not the world. He shares his journey from teen apprentice to award-winning celebrity stylist in our funny and fearless interview on page 30.

With over 25 years as a salon owner and coach, we are delighted to welcome on board Ken West of 365 Salon Education. He writes about the struggles facing salons across the water, and invites you to put your queries to him. Catch up on the award-winners at the recent AlfaParf Milano Fantastic Hairdresser awards on page 14 before poring over the stunning interiors of Roller Blow Dry Bar, on page 40.

From training to tweeting, Nadine Quinn of The Space tells us how the landscape is changing. Read about her influences and icons on page 39.

And now over to you: Do you want to see a particular topic covered? Who do you want to read about? Email me, Tara@fringehq. com, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d love to hear from you.

Katherine Sweeney of Preen reveals the secrets to juggling life as manager, stylist and mum on page 44, while one of the most respected names in the industry, Paul Hession, talks about growing up on the salon floor. Read his love letter to hairdressing on page 48.

Until next time,

If these words of wisdom have left you eager to learn, we have advice from the experts. Turn to page 34 for Sue Remesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; guide to standing out from the crowd with a Unique Selling Point the whole salon can get behind.

Tara Corristine, Editor

FRINGE MAGAZINE

Letter from the Editor

Arm Candy

Spelling relief for arms everywhere, Hot Tools Professional have created the CurlBar, a 90-degree angled curling iron that allows the wrist and arm style at a natural position. With even heat distribution, instant heat over eight settings and a vibrating curl timer, it’s available in 25mm and 32mm with a three-metre tangle free swivel cord. Genius. nationalbeauty.ie

Trendwatch

Designer Sophie Webster’s SS17 collection, Dolly Birds of Paradise, is a tropical mash-up of Dreamgirls and Hitchcock’s The Birds: “This concept was brought to life with beehive up-do’s and big bouncy styles reminiscent of the glamorous Motown girl groups and fashionable Dolly Birds of the 1960s era,” said Webster. Maria Kovacs, TIGI European Session Director, created a number of looks designed to move seamlessly from runway to reality. tigiprofessional.com

Editor’s Choice The power of nature backed by ground-breaking science, the new Kérastase Aura Botanica collection uses coconut oil to nourish and strengthen, and argan oil to resist oxidation and leave the fibre light and shining. Made up of 98 per cent natural origin ingredients responsibly sourced, the range is silicone, sulphate and paraben-free, and delivers three days of anti-frizz control. Prices start from €25.50 and we have our eye on the Moisturising Oil-mist (€37.40): jojoba, avocado and sweet orange oils smooth, and Damask rose water adds a delicious hint of scent. kerastase.co.uk

Body Beautiful

Taking a three-pronged approach, the new Scalp Care Anti-Thinning system from Paul Mitchell slows follicle shrinking, increases hair density and extends the growth and resting phase, to give fuller, thicker locks. An eight-week clinical study saw an 85 per cent increase in hair volume and strength. nationalbeauty.ie

The Professional

Smaller, smarter, speedier: The Dyson Supersonic Professional Edition (€349.99) ticks all the boxes. A magnetic concentrator delivers airflow as wide as your brush, the V9 motor – nestled in the handle for balance – is six times faster than your average dryer, intelligent heat control ensures client’s hair is protected and, mercy me, it’s oh so quiet. dyson.ie/supersonic-professional

Did you know…

46 per cent of women who choose to colour their hair opt for blond. But between the touch-ups and toning, going blonde is a high-maintenance mission. With this in mind, Joico has launched Blonde Life, a lightening and brightening system that includes a shampoo, conditioner, masque and in-salon Lightening Powder that gives 9+ levels of lift. The secret lies in the mix of nourishing monoi and tamanu oils and natural detoxifiers that knock out brassy tones before they appear. xpertpro.ie

FRINGE MAGAZINE

News and reviews

Shop Talk

30%...

Starters Orders The Epic Professional Stylist Intro Kit from Wet Brush Pro (€90) has four brushes – the Deluxe Detangler, Quick Dry, Extension and Blowout brush, and two carbon combs in a travel set. That’ll get you going. Diamond Distribution; 086 3894455

of women say frizzy hair is their top beauty woe. Enter frizz fighters, Smooth.Again.Wash (€23) and Rinse (€23) from Kevin.Murphy. Monoi oil in the wash smooths and softens while sunflower seed extract strengthens and moisturises. The clever conditioner only works where it’s needed and cocoa seed butter naturally protects the hair and scalp. nationalbeauty.ie

Two to Try

Cleansing Conditioner by Precious Nature from AlfaParf Milano €12.50 A light soap-free formula for stressed hair that promises a 15 per cent improvement in resistance to breakage. xpertpro.ie

Pastel Power

Zen Hair has added a myriad of mermaid shades to its range of luxury tape extensions and clients can plump for a pop of lilac, dusty pink, cool blue or steel grey. A clever option for session stylists or those looking for a low-commitment change, Zen Hair’s luxury series is made from virgin remy hair and fortified with a keratin deep-conditioning process for hair that will stay soft and shiny, even after extensive styling and washing. zenhair.co

Want to know what’s hot in colour? Ask the Expert Josh Wood, Wella Professionals Global Creative Director, Colour “Colour for 2017 will be very schizophrenic. From the muted fur-like tones we created at Yiqing Yin and Givenchy, all the way through to bright vivid colour, there really isn’t a specific colour of the next few seasons. Hair colour has become a real part of each designer collection, from the midnight ghostly blacks and purples at Marc Jacobs, through to the bleached army of men at

Rick Owens. If there’s one umbrella movement that I see, colour’s got a little more grown up, less punky roots, less raw bleach, less statement colour. The hue and tone of a colour is almost more important than the light or darkness, getting the right tone is key to cracking the code of someone’s skin tone and eye colour. Feel assured that if your hair’s coloured, you’re on trend.”

Shampure Thermal Dry Conditioner by Aveda €33 A thermal dry spray that conditions, detangles and softens between washes. Tip! aveda.co.uk M ist curls tover lank for 10 hen tong s aveda econds. .co.uk

FRINGE MAGAZINE

News and reviews

Shop Talk

INSIGHT is a line formulated in our laboratory to create a synergic action between the ancient wisdom of phyto-extracts and phyto- oils and the ethical choice to work using organic ingredients. Nature is our source of inspiration.

YOUR HAIR OUR PASSION Address: Envy Cometics Ltd Aiden Street Kiltimagh Co Mayo Ireland

Telephone: +353 94 937 4832

Email: General Enquiries: info@envyorganica.com Customer Service: eavan@envyorganica.com

Shop Talk FRINGE MAGAZINE

News and reviews

Star Treatment At-home care is just as important as the salon service, and celebrity hair colourist Tracey Cunningham councils her clients Emma Stone, Drew Barrymore and Cameron Diaz to use Olaplex No 3 to rescue and restore their tresses. “All my girls love it. It’s my go to product, for myself, and all of my clients. It’s revolutionary.” The Olaplex in-salon system rebuilds any damaged side bonds in the hair which can break during colouring, relaxing and when using heated tools, and is supported by the at-home treatment. olaplex.co.uk

Mix It Up Sure to be a talking point, the Ping blender’s detachable blade mixes consistent, creamier colour in less time than it takes by hand. Plus, it’s kinder to the environment, too. (€149) nationalbeauty.ie

Winning Ways Time is running out to enter the Great Lengths Ireland Awards 2017, with the closing date on March 24. There are six categories in this year’s competition including colour, avant-garde creation and bridal creation. Fringe Magazine editor, Tara Corristine, will be on the VIP judging panel and the winners will be announced at an awards ceremony in May. Details on how to enter is available on greatlengthshair.co.uk.

Straight Up

Overload

Here comes the science: The Diamond Radiance Heated Smoothing Brush from Babyliss has a unique bristle combination with heated ceramic straightening fins that detangle and straighten as it brushes and frizz-controlling ions are released onto the hair with each stroke, resulting in smoother, shinier strands. There are three heat settings with a maximum temperature of 200°C. babyliss.co.uk

For those who prefer their product on the shy side, Shaper from Structure (€14.95) is a lightweight paste that offers medium hold and smells good too! xpertpro.ie

Gray Away Bb.Color Sticks (€33) instantly cover grays, fill in spaces and blend hair colour. Available in five shades, the balm-like formula holds pigment in place for mess-free application and water-resistant finish. Stroke it on like a lipstick, blend in with fingers, wash it out. bumbleandbumble.co.uk.

14 14

FFRRI INNGGEE M MAAGGAAZZII N N EE

Alfaparf Milano International Educator, Vivica Davies, directed the opening segment, The Thin White Duke, an homage to Bowieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 1976 iteration, while the cutting section was coordinated by Nexxt Generation Educator, Stephen Flanagan, and Dublin Academy Manager, Beatrice Moate, coordinated the colour placement. The awards, judged by internationally renowned industry experts Desmond Murray, Gina Conway, Joseph Koniak, Ruben Ugarte and Marijana Habek, include six artistic, two business and the Alfaparf Milano Inixia photographic awards.

It was a very happy seventh birthday for the Alfaparf Milano Fantastic Hairdresser Awards, which saw more than 1,200 stylists enter across nine categories. The culmination of months of hard work came to a head at the DoubleTree Hilton Hotel in Ballsbridge in a spectacular David Bowie-themed evening of innovation, creativity and incredibly hard work.

F R II N NG GE E MAGA A ZZIINNEE

Lucky Number Seven

Lu ck y Number Sev e n

FRINGE MAGAZINE

5 1. Fantastic Stylist Award winning creation by Debbie Claffey, Gravity Hair Lounge, Galway 2. Fantastic Fantasy Hair Stylist Award third place runner-up by Kayleigh O’Brien, Glo Hair and Beauty, Drogheda 3. Tony Lee (model), Debbie Claffey, Gravity Hair Lounge, Galway and Kathleen Conlon, Alfaparf Milano Ireland 4. Roisin Murphy (model), Ciara Conway, La Mode Hair and Beauty, Dublin, winner of the Fantastic Hair Colourist Award, with Richard Barry, Alfaparf Milano Ireland 5. Joan Jordan, Alfaparf Milano Ireland, Denise Philips, Pelo, Newbridge, winner of the Inixia Photographic Award, Danielle Wallace (model) and Emma Dowling 6. Simona Vasiliavskaite (model) with Ken O’Connor, Alfaparf Milano Ireland and Daina Petrauskiene, Bliss Hair and Beauty, Castlebar, winner of the Fantastic Long Hair Stylist Award

7. Simona Vasiliavskaite (model) with Daina Petrauskiene, Bliss Hair and Beauty, Castlebar, winner of the Fantastic Long Hair Stylist Award 8. Olga DeVignat (model) and Veronique Kuehn, Studio 92, Dublin 2, winner of the Fantastic Fantasy Hair Stylist Award with Beatrice O’Donovan, Alfaparf Milano Ireland 9. Beatrice O’Donovan, Alfaparf Milano Ireland, Pádraig Oluasa (model), Danielle Bethel, Occasions Hair Salon, Naas, winner of the Fantastic Gents Hair Stylist Award, Jordan Doyle (model) and Richard Barry, Alfaparf Milano Ireland 10. Fantastic Hair Colourist Award third place runner-up by Ronan Markey, Sebastian Marks Salon, Artane 11. David Donnellan, MD, Alfaparf Milano Ireland with Irene and Duncan Kenna, Occasions Hair Salon, Naas, winners of the Fantastic Salon Award

FRINGE MAGAZINE

CRUELTY, PARABEN AND AMMONIA FREE, MULTI-TONAL PERMANENT COLOUR WITH A MOLECULAR COUPLE GUARANTEE; FOR INFORMATION CONTACT ICON.

Available in the best salons worldwide, KEVIN.MURPHY is distributed in Ireland by National Beauty Distribution. For details or to become a stockist contact +353 21 4217482 or info@nationalbeauty.ie

www.loveKMireland.com

/loveKMireland

@loveKMireland

19 FRINGE MAGAZINE

“Social media is a great way to showcase your work and update your portfolio. It’s a marketing tool for your business: it allows you to reach out to clients and see what they are buying into, what’s trending, what colours, looks and styles people are gravitating towards. It’s a way to build your brand or personal vision. Instagram is visual dream, a place for ideas and inspiration, and reaching people and companies that would have been impossible 10 years ago.

edia L o o k i n g f o r s o m e s o c i a l my l i s t t s n o i s s inspiration? Se Tr u d y H a y e s s h a r e s h e r instagram secrets

The hashtags I use include #hair #instalike #brides #weddings #creative #photography #shoot and the company or product I’m using. Make-up and product hashtags are the most successful for getting your work seen. Instagram heroes? Eugene Souleiman, Anthony Turner, Trevor Sorbie and make-up artist Pat McGrath as well as MAC and L’Oréal.” @trudzhayez

NEWMIRRORSMOOTH MIRRORSMOOTH ® ™

FLAWLESSLY SMOOTH. BRILLIANT SHINE.

FLAWLESSLY SMOOTH, BRILLIANT SHINE.

A proven system that works from the outside in to smooth the cuticle, reduce frizz, add intense shine and protect against thermal damage.

91% 67% *

SMOOTHER HAIR

LESS FRIZZ FOR UP TO 24 HOURS

* When using the system of Awapuhi Wild Ginger® MirrorSmooth® Shampoo, Conditioner and High Gloss Primer, as compared to untreated hair. Products were tested by an established, independent third-party laboratory.

MORE GLOSS

Discover your nearest salon at paul-mitchell.co.uk or call 0845 659 0011

Logging On Making training accessible and convenient, Hairdressing Live is a new online tutorial service featuring Ireland’s top stylists. Michael Leong, Katherine Sweeney, Stephen Boyle and James Coleman are among those signed up, with UK names set to be announced soon. One-hour stepby-step demonstration style classes such as the page boy cut by Artistic director and owner of Crow Street Collective, Darren Lacken (pictured), will be streamed live each week ending with interactive question and answer sessions. For more, log on to hairdressinglive.com.

Colour Corrector The Art of Colour course at the Dylan Bradshaw Academy is ideal for qualified stylists and colourists looking to upskill. Balayage, Ombre Ecaille, Spotlighting and Strobing are among the new trends covered and the classics are revisited too. This twoday course runs throughout the year, see dylanbradshaw.com.

Clipper Confidence Founded in 2014 by Joth Davies, the Savills Academy in Sheffield offers a range of courses taught by awardwinning master barbers and trainees. As well as clipper confidence and specialist shaving courses, a long hair technique course is available that will guide students through layering and texturising, with four demonstrations and three haircuts. The Master Barber course is for the experienced barber looking to perfect their pomps and ducktails, skin and bald fades. A maximum of four students are taught per class and courses are ongoing. Dates can be viewed at savillsbarbers.com.

Going for Grey The silver trend looks set to continue, so if it’s time to get to grips with grey, Wella has the answer. It’s Grey course offers a fashion-focused approach to colouring grey and white hair, looks at the barriers to grey, and how to use Colour Equations to create the perfect bespoke shade. This one-day course will run throughout the year. Call 01 416 0900 to book.

Up-Skill With three individual awards from the 2016 OMC Europe Cup in Paris under his belt and a spot on this year’s IHF Irish Barber Team, it’s no surprise that Frank Hackett’s Retro students have an impressive employment rate. “In 2011, we became the first training centre in the Mid West to offer internationally accredited barbering courses which have enabled nearly 70 per cent of our students to gain employment. Assignments and practical assessments are externally verified and all of our courses are competence-based qualifications – this gives clients and employers the confidence that the holder can safely and effectively apply the skills covered by the qualifications.” retrobarbers.ie

Time to get ahead

FRINGE MAGAZINE

Training Day

14 2 SOS Emergency Cream by Elemis €66.50 Not just for winter, keep this soothing salve on hand all year round for chapped lips, dry mitts and rough elbows.

FRINGE MAGAZINE

Comice Pear & Wild Honey Hand Cream €23 Comice Pear & Wild Honey Hand Lotion €19 Comice Pear & Wild Honey Hand Wash €12 all by Molton Brown Subtle hints of bergamot paired with gardenia and jasmine: snap up this delicious limited edition trio before it’s gone.

Skin Brightener by Neostrata €34.95 This oil-free brightening fluid fades dark spots and encourages cell renewal, making skin soft and radiant.

Pretty up your beauty offering

3 5

Designer Plates Nail Art Stamping Kit by Morgan Taylor €19.99 Transfer kits for easy peasy nail art.

Essential Regenerating Mask by Thalgo €56 For stressed, sore skin that needs an instant solution, reach for this deeply hydrating mask.

RidgeFx Nail Surface Enhancer by CND €15.95 The perfect mani begins with prep and this polish will even out bumps, lines, ridges and grooves.

Shelf Life

Tulasara Wedding Masque Eye Overnight by Aveda €68 Algae extract reduces puffiness and shadows while apricot seed oil repairs skin as you sleep.

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Organic Herbal Tea by Voya €11.50 A restorative sup from an Irish brand – Fennel Fusion is our favourite.

Body Blur Instant HD Skin Finish by Vita Liberata €37.50 This multi-tasker minimises blemishes and smoothes over cellulite while giving a golden glow.

13 11

Superskin Superlip Balm by Liz Earle €19 Winged sea kelp, pomegranate seed oil and, wait for it, dragon’s blood extract are at work here to replenish and soften.

Purity Hot Cloth Cleanser by Kaeso €15.64 Gently cleanse away the day with this witch hazel, grapefruit and cranberry combo.

Eye Catcher Cleansing & Correcting Buds by Moxi €4.95/24 Individually wrapped buds pre-filled with a vitamin E cleanser, stash these in your bag, desk and car for eyeliner emergencies.

Intensive Firming Complex by Anne Sémonin €85 A dynamic duo packed with energising phosphorus and healing zinc plus toning ylang ylang and geranium oils. Use them together or layer into a mask, moisturiser or even shampoo.

FRINGE MAGAZINE

Yana Daily Collagen Shots by Image Skincare €99/one-month supply A daily dose to plump your skin from within thanks to five restorative compounds.

These are the products of the

hair-obsessed.

Available in the best salons worldwide, ORIBE is distributed in the UK by ICON. For details or to become a stockist contact +44 (0) 1282 613413 or enquiries@inconteam.co.uk oribe.com oribeuk oribeuk oribeuk #OribeObsessed

Jeremy Scott

Eugene Souleiman, Wella Professionals Global Creative Director of Care and Styling, created some of the spring season’s most dramatic looks

Statement cuts caused a stir on the spring catwalks with monochrome mullets at Yohji Yamamoto, short fringes at Balenciaga and even the much-maligned mullet at Tom Ford. Designer Alexander Wang persuaded models to cut their hair into choppy shags for his show, at YSL, model Jourdana Phillips debuted a very short bleached cut, and in Milan, ear-length bobs appeared at Moschino and at Prada.

t t o c S y m e Jer

“It’s all about boundary pushing cuts, a chop that says ‘I’m breaking the rules’. They’re bold, assertive and anti-conformity,” says Eugene Souleiman, who created blunt onelength styles at Acne and 80s Sassoon-inspired beret cuts at Jeremy Scott.

GET THE LOOK

“This look is an exercise in precision. The cut is on the bias, shorter above the eyebrow, then getting longer as the style travels round the head. I prepped the hair with Eimi Perfect Setting blow dry lotion spray that gave us the right texture to work with. You get a very luxurious feeling, with lovely shine. I blow-dried it straight using a round brush to keep it from looking too geometric and to create an opulent feel. We sprayed Eimi Glam Mist on the hair and combed this through, giving some control and just a little bit of shine. Finally, I ran the straightening irons through to flatten the cuticles, and this gave the synthetically shiny look I wanted.”

Jeremy Scott

FRINGE MAGAZINE

TREND WATCH

1 2

Look sharp: Artisan Aprons are handcrafted from Spanish leather and every skin is chosen for its natural features, like neck wrinkles, scratches and branding, ensuring each one is unique. Their bestselling Backstrap model has a pocket, towel holder and five adjustable points that spread the weight over the whole back. An additional pouch for tools can be clipped on. Prices start from €147 approx. for the apron, €41 for the pouch and various colours and lengths are available. artisan-aprons.co.uk

FRINGE MAGAZINE

High-tech X-Taper blades, a linear motor and 50 minutes continuous use; best keep the Panasonic Professional Clippers and Trimmers on hand. Pictured (L-R) GP21 Trimmer €81.37; GP80 Clipper €203.40. For stockists, call 0800262509.

New tools and tricks of the trade

The new drop from Akito Scissors has landed and of the four styles in the lineup, two stand out. The Halo (pictured) has an orbital swivel thumb for exceptional comfort, while the XT-10 has a convex cutting blade with 18 teeth and a fixed finger rest. The range is made from Japanese steel and prices start from €170. akitoscissors.com

Known for their natural pomades, pastes and clays, all eyes will be on the new range of luxury accessories from Copacetic: Tool rolls, ox horn combs, copper shave bowls and leather cases have a delicious nod to the Art Deco era and prices start at €12. copacetic-gent.com

Form and function are the calling cards of Kiela design and they have now applied their talents to the u-box barber styling chair. The sleek model has an adjustable closed backrest and a height-adjustable headrest. No concessions have been made in terms of quality: the chair was manufactured using tried and tested technologies that guarantee long life and is available in a range of colours. €1,100. xpertpro.ie

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See our hatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on? parties asnaps from laun nd award c s nightsh. Check ou productts our reviews of th to know about. e Read o hair induur interviews wit ht try game from hosm changerhse e and ab road. , See the c atwal hit the rk looks as they unway. Listen to int top minedrviews with the s i n ha i r . Catch up on our fe topics atures from mtahat matter to yoon the u, na findinggaement style to mentor.

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29 FRINGE MAGAZINE

At the Thaddeus O’Neil SS17 show, Temple of the Burning Sun, Aveda Artist Jon Reyman styled a centre-part braid overflowing with soft, easy curls. “Thaddeus was inspired by the thought of finding sacred space and having a spiritual pilgrimage by the sea,” said Reyman. “Each model had long wavy hair that we spun into defined, touchable curls. A braid down the centre part lifted hair just enough off the face to complete the look.”

s Surf Up

Moving on from last year’s super-slick styles, the spring catwalks showcased a relaxed vibe Wet hair and gently twist small sections while blowdrying to begin to shape the natural curl and define with Pure-Formance Grooming Cream from Aveda Men. Loosely create two buns over each ear, leaving out the centre section of hair. Braid the centre section from the forehead all the way to the end of the hair and secure with clear elastic. Undo the buns and work Aveda Men Pure-Formance Grooming Clay between the palms of the hands. Gently massage into the hair to add lightweight texture for a beachy look.

FRINGE MAGAZINE

HEADLINE ACT

They gave me a part time job and I earned £12. I was 15 and I didn’t tell anyone I was hairdressing. I was playing hurling and the coach would drive me to classes after training. When I was 17, I left school looking for an apprenticeship and they wouldn’t give me one because I was a bit cheeky, I had a bit of a mouth on me. Jacqui Walpole gave me a break and I got a job at Peter Mark Hair and Beauty Stephens Green with Liam Kennedy. He said, ‘I hear you’re hard to employ. Any shit and you’re gone.’ I worked my arse off. I loved it, I’d skip into work. A big influence at the time was Gary Kavanagh, he took me under his wing and gave me bigger opportunities. I did the front cover of the RTÉ Guide and then I started winning awards with the hairdressing federation. I left and went to work in Reds. It was a different calibre of client and I learned a lot there.

“People would ring up, ‘I’m walking up and down the street and I can’t find your salon.’ I copped after about three years that I should put my name over the door”

GOING SOLO I was asked to look after a band called The Corrs just as they blew up, and go on a promotional tour. I was on the road, in a private jet for three months touring Europe – it was brilliant. At this stage, I had the bug to move on, I had just won the L’Oréal Colour Trophy for Reds, I’d been saving, I’d bought a house. I was on this private jet, heading back to Dublin and The Corrs manager John Hughes asked me what I was doing for my week off. I said, ‘I’m going to look at salons.’ He said, ‘What are you going to call it?’ ‘I dunno, The Room.’ He goes, ‘That’s a load of shite!’ Then he said, ‘See these, when I met them, they wanted to

STARTING OUT I started working when I was 15. I wasn’t getting on in school and my mum thought it might be a good idea to get a job in a hair salon, take the rough edges off. I went to get a haircut in Peter Mark in Dun Laoghaire Shopping Centre and I was looking around, thinking, this is really cool. It heightened my senses: the smells, the noise, the energy. I thought, I can do this.

FRINGE MAGAZINE

Funny, irreverent, unflinchingly honest, and did we mention talented? Our first cover star, Dylan Bradshaw tells us about bad budgeting, teamwork and hanging with The Corrs

call themselves names like Xanadu, I told them to call themselves The Corrs cause it never dates. Call it your name, Dylan Bradshaw is a good name.’ I looked for a salon for about a year and in November 2000, I opened on Johnson Place with five staff. I had a great architect, Tom dePaor, and a 1,500sqft salon and I gave him a budget of €100,000 and I think it came to €170,000 to fit out. It was nuts. And I’d paid €150,000 leasehold as well. So I’m down half a million quid before I’ve even done my first haircut and I’m 27-years-old. The salon was beautiful. We had no concept of spend, I wanted the best of everything. But this is where business naivety comes in: I had a blue neon light over the door but no name on it. People would ring up, ‘I’m walking up and down the street and I can’t find your salon.’ I copped after about three years that I should put my name over the door.

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I was under a lot of pressure for the first three years. I was doing everything. We couldn’t afford a cleaner and I was buffing the floor for the first year and a half. There was a competitor up the lane and he used to drive past in a top-of-the-range car and he’d wave into me: Celebrity hairdresser Dylan Bradshaw, buffing the floors! I couldn’t read a Profit and Loss sheet. At the end of the year I would find out that we took in this amount of money and I owe this amount of money. I wasn’t able to be on top of it. We got through it, it was hard and I was behind on payments to the revenue. I could have gone under at any stage. That was my growing pains. Ironically, three years later, I met my wife, she’s an accountant. The business was coming in the door and she got involved, we refocused and got through it.

GROWING YOUR OWN I would say to anyone starting up, your brand is like having a child, you have to nurture it and watch it grow and hopefully it doesn’t get into trouble along the way. There’s a lot of things that kill a business: not being focused or keeping your eye on it, not

being in the salon. The biggest problem is taking your client for granted. To save it, you’ve got to have a great team behind you, really talented people that give a shit what they are doing. They have to believe in you, and you in them. Like all businesses, as we get bigger, it’s harder to look after your clients. When I had a salon that was 1,500sqft and there was 20 of us, that was hard. If I’m doing 600 services a week, that’s a seriously hard job. Clients tell you one thing and mean another. It’s like being a detective, you have to ask a lot of questions, listen to their story, find out all their bad hair experiences and then stitch a story together. I think it’s part of our industry that we don’t take ourselves seriously enough. When a client comes in, you have to educate them. They don’t respect the industry and I think they don’t respect the hairdresser. When I go to a restaurant, I don’t tell the chef how to cook and stand over him while he does it. The majority of clients will say, ‘I don’t want you to do this or that.’ They dictate the terms. As professionals, we don’t stand up to the client sometimes. My job is to advise them; try this, it’ll work.

MR MOTIVATOR I love the idea of trying to be the best I can be. From day one in the salon I wanted to make my mark, I really believed that what we had to offer was different. When it comes to competitions we are unrivalled, we’ve won the L’Oréal Colour Trophy four times, we just won the world final this year, we’ve been runner-up several times, I think we’ve won over 60 major awards since we opened. All of those things are great for morale but, without sounding corny, the biggest success story is producing a great team of people who work for you every day, clients coming back asking for you or one of your team again, that’s reward in itself.

“From day one in the salon I wanted to make my mark, I really believed that what we had to offer was different.”

When I was 21, I worked in Bumble and bumble in New York. The funny thing is, it wasn’t really a hairdressing thing that switched me on: it was the service, how people treated people, how hairdressers are respected. We don’t get that respect in this country, and that really got under my skin and into my head, and I thought, I’d really like to have a salon someday and have that ethos. I find in Ireland, especially growing up, I wasn’t proud of saying I was a hairdresser. It was always a putdown, like saying you weren’t educated or you failed, like it was a fallback career. I think Irish hairdressing is one of the best in Europe, if not the world. It’s like a boutique country, we are quite small but we punch above our weight. But I think our standards need to be pushed more, our wages, how we run our operations, I think we need to be more professional.

RAPID FIRE • I love food, I love cooking, it’s always been my other passion. I’m loving Hang Dai on Camden St. It’s Chinese with a twist, it’s very interesting. • I’m getting old now, I like a simple pub, a place where you can have a chat and a pint. I love Peter’s Pub down the road, I’m drinking there 20 years. • Peaky Blinders is a good boxset and Westworld – it screws with the mind. • I’m doing a lot of work with Dyson at the moment, I love the dryer, I know it’s €400 but it’s a really cleverly designed product you are going to blowdry your hair with every day. People will spend €700 on a phone and change it every year. We sold out of it at Christmas, I couldn’t keep it on the shelf. Photographs: Lili Forberg misslili.net

CELEBRATING THE PROFESSION

R II N NG GE E M MA AG GA A ZZ II N NE E FF R

There’s always a great energy in the salon and people have fun working there which is something I’m very proud of because I painstakingly chose the right people to work together. They get paid extremely well. I give everyone an hour to look after a client each, they charge a premium and I organise quite a bit for the staff throughout the year.

Getting Ahead

34 34

FFRRI INNGGEE M MAAGGAAZZII N N EE

An industry leader in marketing, education and sales strategy in luxury haircare, Sue Remes explains why every salon needs a unique selling point, and how to find one

QUESTION TIME

Identifying your USP involves asking yourself some simple questions. • From the moment clients call to book an appointment to the moment they walk out our door after the service, what is the experience I want my clients to have? • How do I want my clients not only to look, but to feel when they leave my salon and what is it I most want them to remember about their experience? • What behaviour am I willing to live and die by every day when interacting with my clients? • What are the non-negotiables? If the entire salon staff has different viewpoints or answers to these questions, you don’t have a Unique Selling Point.

BREAK IT DOWN

I don’t think product lines or services are necessarily Unique Selling Points any more because they are now available through many different channels and price points. Loyalty programs which used to be a ‘nice to have’ have now become a ‘need to have’ so every business has one. While you can’t really say a retail offering or a service makes you unique, you can say your ‘retail or service story’ does.

Long before it was a ‘thing’, a very smart merchant friend of mine started seeing the trend in ‘Shop Local’. She created a holiday pop-up store featuring local merchants in her local large shopping centre and gave customers the opportunity to learn how products were made and who was making them. While the products she sold were not that unique, the shopping experience was. The idea was so successful, she now operates pop-ups from June to December, focusing on graduations, weddings, back-to-school and holidays. She has become known as the Shop Local expert in America and her pop-up stores are in shopping centres all over the country. When you think about your offering, ask yourself; ‘Can the consumer have a singleminded response to your salon brand?’ If the answer is yes, you’ve nailed it. If not, you will need to spend some time defining this with the salon team. Be known for something. Put your stake in the ground and wrap everything you’ve got around it. Otherwise you risk not standing out.

TEAMWORK The most important step in developing your Unique Selling Point is to involve your staff in the process to ensure every person feels they can ‘live the USP.’ Then you make this central to your interview process with future candidates. This ensures it is communicated through words, actions and behaviours and felt by the consumer on every level. Ongoing education reinforces the USP, feeds the staff and gives the consumer confidence that you are evolving along with their needs. One of the greatest missed opportunities I see salon professionals making is when they attend education events, they never tell their clients about it! Consider this a marketing tool and tell everyone who sits in your chair that you invest in your ongoing education because it is an investment in your clients. This is really important as clients will leave you if they feel you have become complacent.

GROWTH MENTALITY As staff grows, skills grow and your people and service/product offering grow, it is important to protect your USP and use it as a guide to decision-making. This needs to be thought through from both a client standpoint and an internal company standpoint. My client Kevin.Murphy is a great example. When I met them five years ago, they were a boutique brand that started in Australia and were trying to break into America.

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There are lots of opinions about what is a Unique Selling Point (USP) depending on what you are selling, whom you are selling to and how you are selling what you sell. My viewpoint is that a USP is anything you and every member of the team can live by and defend every single day with every single interaction with your clients. My dentist has a Unique Selling Point: ‘Dentistry for the Joyful’. It’s unique for sure – using dentistry and joyful in the same sentence is not only unique, it is very bold! I didn’t really get it when I first saw it, as I don’t find anything ‘joyful’ about going to the dentist. However, when you become a patient of his, you understand this USP very quickly. Every single person in his office, from the woman who answers the phone to the hygienist and the dentist himself, is filled with joy and they make it their mission, when you are in their office, that you also feel that joy. Not an easy task when you spend your entire day looking into people’s mouths. But they do it without fail, every single time.

FEEL THE NEED

They have a very meaningful USP that speaks directly to the consumer they are targeting; ‘Skincare for the hair’. I did market research for them in America and Europe and this USP resonates strongly with their target consumer because she is fully invested (financially and emotionally) in the skincare category, so this is language she can really relate to. Internally Kevin.Murphy has a USP for their staff: ‘Never above you, never below you, always by your side’. They use this as their foundation for all decision-making – who to hire, who to partner with and who to part ways with. This is central to their culture and shapes their behaviour. They are one of the most dedicated teams I have worked with because everyone lives and dies by this mantra. This not only protects their USP, but also protects them as a brand. Kevin.Murphy’s combination of internal and external Unique Selling Points have shaped the brand and given everyone a strong foundation to live by. The result is that nine years after coming to America, Kevin.Murphy is now sold in 43 countries, they have a very high level of employee retention and most importantly, their customers love the brand.

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SPEAK UP Given that there are a ton of marketing messages flying at the consumer every single minute of every single day, it’s important to focus on a unique voice and tone in your social media and press efforts. Begin by creating a content calendar. Instead of just promoting deals, products or services, create engaging content that your audience finds relevant. Stay consistent and stick to your message. Then repeat, repeat, repeat. Take a look at the metrics of how your message performs so you know what is resonating with the consumer. Simple social media monitoring tools, such as your Facebook metrics dashboard, will tell you if your USP sticks.

SUE REMES: THE INSIDE STORY Sue Remes fell in love with the beauty industry while working at a Clinique counter. She swiftly worked her way up to Regional Education Manager for the cosmetic giant before moving to Aveda as National Sales Manager. As Vice President of Luxury for Mars Advertising, she expanded her knowledge of building brand equity, driving volume, enhancing and expanding brand presence. In 1993 she set up Sue Remes Resources where she has earned a reputation as a leading industry consultant, creating valuable education programs, marketing strategies and sales processes that build brands and create customer loyalty. She has worked with organisations such as Kiehl’s Since 1851, Wella, Frédéric Fekkai, Matrix, Lancôme, Sebastian International, Murad, Kevin.Murphy and The Body Shop. sueremes.com

In 2016, we asked salons and stylists all over Ireland, to be part of something special together. Your response blew us away. Hundreds of salons helped Childline to answer thousands of calls, from children who needed to talk.

This year, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re back. And we need your support more than ever. To register your salon for Get Blown Away 2017 go to ispcc.ie or call us on 1850 50 40 50 #GetBlownAway SUPPORTED BY

(021) 4217482

disconnections like the heavy bang to emphasise the cheekbones. My favourite trend is still the balayage and ombre technique. What began as a fad is now very much a staple. A beautifully executed ombre looks really luxurious and

trend. Daniella Moyles is a natural beauty, inside and out. Her style is earthy, eclectic and youthful, she has amazing morals when it comes to slow fashion and is really ecologically mindful. ON ICONS It has to be Peter Gray:

ON TRENDS Mid-length hair will become sharper with less layering. We’ll see more internal texture or

ON INSPIRATION I’m inspired by the opportunities and doors hairdressing has opened for me. I feel very grateful every day that I get to work alongside my best friends and some of the industry’s best artists.

ON SOCIAL MEDIA Social media is really important – it’s a powerful avenue of communication that allows us to reach a broader spectrum of clientele. Facebook and Instagram are our go-to networks, Instagram is probably our favourite. The team really enjoys producing work that will be photographed for social media. We are lucky in this generation that we have a tool that gives us such a wide reach. Sometimes recommendations are not enough and people want visual evidence of the talent, skills and signature style of the salon, and Instagram gives us that medium to communicate without having to say a word. Anybody can say they send out beautiful work, but an image speaks for itself.

I follow Peter (@ petergrayhair) and Sam McKnight (@ Sammcknight1) on Instagram for session inspiration and Stella McCartney (@ stellamccartney) for style inspiration and all-round cool vibes.

My business partner, Carla Rose, is completely dedicated and passionate and always trying to improve herself and those around her – this inspires me on a daily basis.

IN THE CHAIR Co-owner of The.Space, Nadine Quinn reveals the influencers and icons shaping her world

tailored to each individual, so much intricacy and detail is required to achieve a perfect bespoke result. ON INFLUENCERS Definitely Olivia Palermo, as not only is she a style icon for clothes, she is never afraid to try different lengths and colour techniques and enhancements. She plays around with textures and styles and is always on

he is an amazing session stylist who is constantly pushing the boundaries. I have had the privilege of working alongside him and he is super talented. Vera Mai Ha (Director, Trevor Sorbie, Manchester) is an absolute genius, the level of her skill is astounding and her Instagram page (@veramaiha) is clean and minimal. I think as a hair artist she has it nailed.

ON FUTURE PLANS As a new business owner, I am learning all about the world of business. I would like to become savvier on social media as I feel I have yet to embrace its full potential. On a personal level, I always want to improve my inner self and mediate more and I’m currently on the path to become a Reiki healer. Watch this space! thespace.ie

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ON EDUCATION Education really excites me; I feel I have the power to make a difference through education. It’s important to never become complacent as the industry is ever-changing, there are constant advances being made in technology and technique. This means we are continuously challenged and constantly updating our skills and knowledge.

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INSIDER STYLE

“R

oller was a concept that Orna and I felt was missing from Dublin, but especially around the Docklands where there is no hairdresser or blowdry bar and numerous blue chip companies,” says Sonia Flynn. Billing itself as a reinvention of the standard hairdressing experience, Roller is hot hair on the go, an offering that is readily available outside of Ireland. “We travelled around the world together through Europe, the US and Asia and when we landed, we would always search for a hairdressers to get a blowdry to shake off the jetlag. We have visited Drybar in the US and felt a blowdry bar concept would work well in Ireland.” The pair were colleagues in Facebook, and Sonia is now responsible for commercial strategy at music app Soundcloud, while Orna heads up staffing at Stripe, a global software enterprise, and both companies have a role to play in their joint venture. “We have worked in the technology sector for our entire careers, so it came naturally to us that we would use technology to set up our business. Social media has been instrumental in getting the word out about Roller. We use Soundcloud in the salon for music and this allows our team to feature their playlists. We rely on Stripe as a payment solution in salon. All of our experiences have impacted how we run Roller, especially around culture, as we see how a positive culture impacts the business and this is what we want to foster at Roller. We understand that change is a must to stay ahead in the hair industry.” The eye-catching interior was a culmination of places and spaces spotted on their travels. “Like any design, it came together gradually,” says Sonia. “We spent time thinking about what our brand stands for and the kind of clients we would have. We were aiming for a comfortable, stylish, relaxed vibe,

“All of our experiences have impacted how we run Roller”

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Identify a need and serve it. This simple adage prompted Orna Holland and Sonia Flynn to set up Roller, a blowdry bar in Dublin’s business district

and I think we hit the spot. A little bit of inspiration comes from each trip, from everywhere we travel to. To keep track of all the ideas, Orna created a board on Pinterest. The exposed concrete walls at Roller are not unlike the kind of design you see featured in Berlin, for example.” It certainly isn’t a case of style over substance as each detail was carefully thought through. “We wanted to make sure that the design and furnishings represent a little bit of luxury for our clients but are also practical for a busy salon. The hand-crafted mirrors were commissioned by us. We wanted them to be individualised and to be portable so that our clients can move them around to suit.” The sleek basins and chairs are by French designer, Philippe Starck while the cabinets have been painted in a custom shade. “We sourced the couches from CA Design, they’re by Danish brand Muuto. We opted for a tile floor by David Scott Tiles and the lighting is by Flos.” Often omitted, at Roller, art is given pride of place. “The artwork comes from The Cross Gallery and it’s the topic of conversation when someone pays us a visit.” An abstract piece in the waiting area, Untitled, is by Kildare native, Gillian Lawler and the vibrant Pavilion by Leicester artist Graham Chorlton provides a splash of colour against the cool concrete.

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“The artwork is the topic of conversation when someone pays us a visit”

With two industry leaders at the helm, success seems certain but the pair are taking nothing for granted. “We have both been involved in scaling different businesses for many years, and a lesson I have learned along the way is that even the most successful businesses in the world have to get the basics right before they expand.”

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And that attention to detail extends from basin to blowdry. “The hair industry, like any other, is part science part art. We exclusively use Kevin.Murphy products in Roller. We tried and tested others in the market as a team before we decided it was the only product portfolio that was exactly right for Roller and reflected the kind of experience we want our clients to have.” As in their other roles, customer satisfaction is the driving force behind the business. “We enjoy seeing happy clients when they’ve visited Roller. Irish women are well travelled and operate at an international level when it comes to their style. They want things done in a fast and effective way and perfection is key. We have had people from all over the world in Roller due to the number of multinationals based in The Docklands such as Facebook and Google.”

The Marker Hotel and The Convention Centre have also been wonderful neighbours and supporters to date.” And as for the future? “We have a vision to expand one day, but right now, our focus is on growing Roller in the centre of the Docklands.” roller.ie

The Style menu at Roller currently has nine options including She’s a Lady, left, and The Vixen, above, and custom touches are also available. “The style menu features lots of add-ons,” says Sonia. “People love having braids added to their blowdry, they are pretty on trend. That said, everyone loves the Straight Talker blowdry done well – I am an addict.” A loyalty card programme has been launched offering 10 blow dries for €250. Roller opens from Mon-Wed 7am-7pm; Thur-Fri 7am-8pm; Sat 9am-5.30pm.

Lightbulb Moment Katherine Sweeney, founder and Creative Director of Preen, shares her work wisdom, from feeling the fear to fulfilling potential When did you realise this was the career for you? I first caught the hairdressing bug accompanying my mum to get her hair done. I just loved the atmosphere of the salon, watching the stylists work and the weird and wonderful outfits they were wearing, the music, everything. It was the 80s so you can picture the scene! What training helped you most? I originally trained in a salon in Covent Garden in London. My boss had been an Art Director for Toni & Guy. He was an excellent teacher and mentor and he instilled in me a passion for cutting hair, and really pushed me to reach my full potential. My training with him was the springboard to the rest of my career. I moved to Dublin where I joined Toni & Guy whose reputation for education is second to none, and the opportunities to learn and progress were endless. I went on to become Head of Education where I worked alongside some of the best hairdressers in the world with the Toni & Guy International Artistic Team.

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What defines an effective consultation? Every client is different, therefore every consultation is different, and some are more challenging than others. Consultation is really just another word for communication. I approach each client as an individual and adapt my style of communication to suit. Consultation skills are honed over time. With experience, you learn how to read a client and their body language. A successful consultation is where both you and the client have established a good understanding of what is to be achieved with their hair and the client trusts you to do so.

them as individuals, understanding their strengths and weaknesses and taking regular time out for one-toones. It’s important to establish what it is that motivates each of them, as this is different for everyone. I always give praise where praise is due and, as much as possible, provide opportunities for all of my team to learn, develop and grow. Please share a high point in your career The day Preen opened its doors was a highlight, as well as every year we have continued to trade since. A particularly special moment for me came in our first year when we were awarded Best Salon Design at the Schwarzkopf Irish Hairdressing Business Awards. This award was particularly close to my heart as my dad’s company did the salon fit-out and he project-managed the salon design.

“I am learning that the only way to manage successfully is to delegate”

What aspect of owning a business do you struggle with? I am a business owner as well as a hairdresser with a busy column and juggling both aspects of running a hair salon can be very challenging at times: both require a lot of time, commitment and dedication. I am also mum to my five-year-old daughter, Alannah. I am learning that the only way to manage all of this successfully is to delegate and give people in the business responsibility for different areas. I have a PR, salon manager, colour manager and a creative director, not forgetting my accountant who keeps my eye on the bottom line!

What do you look for when hiring? First and foremost, a good attitude goes a very long way. Good hairdressing skills are also important, but as long as potential candidates have natural ability and a willingness to learn, we can teach them the rest. Keep staff motivated by treating

Would you do anything differently? Yes and no. There are certainly plenty of things I won’t do again! However, anything that has ever gone wrong or not to plan has been a lesson and an opportunity for me to learn. I have had to face a lot of challenges since opening Preen, but I have always managed to overcome them, so each one has given me more confidence in myself, and in the business. Failure, they say, is on the road to success. preendublin.ie

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marketing plan?” “Is my social media presence making a mark?”

“How often should I increase wages?”

Creating a successful salon takes a very specific set of skills, so we’ve called in the expert...

“What’s my management style?” “Do I need a

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“

"How do I manage parental leave?"

on the he Hello and welcome to my first article for Fringe magazine. Most of us hairdressers shy away from wordy articles written by ‘clever business people’ who have no idea of the challenges we face on a daily basis in a salon. Firstly, let me tell you a little about my background. If you asked me what I am I would reply, ‘a hairdresser,’ but if you asked me what I do I would reply, ‘I coach salon owners and their teams in how to run successful and profitable salons.’

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I owned my own salons for many years but gradually got involved with coaching and after working as a coach for 3·6·5 Salon Education for many years, in 2017 I took over as Director. 3·6·5 has been working with salons since 1982 and is unique in the way it provides business coaching for salon owners and their teams. When I opened my first salon I knew how to cut hair but I personally don’t remember anyone, during my apprenticeship, training me in how to run a salon. Yet nowadays, many salons occupy prime locations, running businesses alongside major retailers with all of their marketing, human resource and financial information that, sadly, no-one ever shared with us. If we want to be taken seriously then we have to behave seriously. It’s a tough world out there. I don’t believe that I have the right to suggest how you or any salon owner should run your business as it is exactly that: your business and there is no right or wrong. But there is certainly different, and over the years I have built up a reputation for challenging people’s thinking.

To do this first I need you to understand some of the issues that you currently have. What I am then hoping is that we can start to look at them one by one, article by article. Remember that old expression, show me yours and I will show you mine? Well, let me start by sharing with you some of the challenges that we are currently facing in salons in Britain and hopefully you will then share your challenges with me.

There are too many salons serving clients who are coming less often than they used to. This is resulting in the average stylist generating less income than we need them to. My personal aim is for every single stylist in a salon to generate a minimum of £1,000 (approx. €1,169) per week net of VAT, in professional only sales.

Retail sales in salons are declining, despite the fact that surveys suggest that clients trust and value their stylist’s personal recommendations above all else. Stylists often believe that they are not sales people which is a misguided perception. They sell their skills, their creativity, their ideas and their advice. I would love to see a salon pay its rent from the profits of its retail sales.

There is a burgeoning culture of discounting in salons with many seeing this as the only way to grow their business. This is leading to a race to the bottom with the perception of the value of a hairdresser’s time and skills being dragged down with it. I believe that a hairdresser’s time is as valuable as any other professional who has trained for three to five years.

Self-employment is being seen by some salon owners as a way of reducing responsibilities and cost liabilities. I feel that this is contrary to the whole concept of creating a salon with a strong brand identity that is passionate about creating

a nurturing environment of growth and opportunity for its team.

Hairdressing is often seen as a last option career choice. I would love to see this perception change and hairdressing become an aspirational career choice. Sadly, if I am honest, challenges one to four could possibly be the reason for challenge five. Hopefully the above is just a springboard to open discussion and debate. Coaching is a two-way process and for me to help you in any way, you have to open your hearts to change. If you are happy with what you are currently getting, for example, the current results of your salon, the profits that you are making and the behaviour of your team, then happy days. However if you are not, then remember this. We used to say, ‘If you carry on doing what you are currently doing, then you will carry on getting what you are currently getting.’ No change = No change Sadly the reality is in fact, if you carry on doing what you are currently doing, then you will eventually get less.

Ken West has been a part of 3·6·5 Salon

Education for over 25 years and coaching salon owners for over a decade. As a leading business expert, Ken regularly contributes to titles including Hairdressers Journal and Salon Business and he has a monthly column in Creative Head. Ken is passionate about coaching salon businesses to achieve their goals. What are the issues that matter to you? What topics would you like help with? Share your questions with Ken, email me at Tara@fringehq.com.

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ead

Expert and coach Ken West shares the challenges currently facing the industry

the final cut He has styled catwalk shows for Christian Dior, scooped Global Business Awards and closed the L’Oréal Colour Trophy show. Creative Director Paul Hession looks back over an incredible career

On the job Hairdressing is in my blood, it was everywhere in my house when I was growing up. My dad, Frank Hession, is a hairdresser. He was always talking about his clients, the competitions and shows that he was doing. I loved the idea of such a fashion-led career so I began working in the salon as soon as I could. I loved it from day one and still love it 30 years later.

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Instagram snap from Johnny Othona of Allilon Education

It’s not for everyone – only a few can pull off such a strong haircut but when it works, it works. I also love the bob: it’s such an iconic cut and so versatile, there are so many different bobs to suit almost everyone. Making mistakes There’s one incident that stands out! I was at a show in Scotland and I was doing a cut on stage. I promised a model that I wouldn’t cut a fringe in her hair but I got a little excited and I forgot my promise… NOT A VERY HAPPY MODEL. But the fringe suited her! High times There have been a few, thank God: Opening our second salon in Clontarf was a biggie and also doing the L’Oréal Colour Trophy show. It was the hardest thing I have ever done but definitely the most rewarding.

Being inspired There are so many things that inspire me: I love Italian Vogue, it’s my fashion drug. I am also hooked on Instagram – I follow other hairdressers like Johnny Othona of Allilon Education and Mazella&Palmer, these guys are so inspiring. Getting excited There are two times of the year that I love: the lead-up to the L’Oréal Colour Trophy, it creates such a positive vibe in both of the salons as everyone gets behind the teams entering, and the Christmas period. It’s when the salon is in full swing, everyone is pushed to their limits and we all work as one big team. Iconic cuts I love the pixie cut. I first saw it on Mia Farrow and I fell in love with it instantly.

for granted. My dad has been such an influence on me, he never let me get too big for my boots. He would say, “you’re only as good as your last haircut.”

L’Oréal Colour Trophy, May, 2010

Dream job I am extremely happy in my career so far, I have been very lucky and I wouldn’t change a thing. Future plans We’re about to start a total refurbishment on our Drumcondra salon. And, who knows, maybe salon number three… hessionhairdressing.com

Hession Hairdressing Clontarf

Industry issues The biggest issue I have is the nixers, it’s killing the industry. It has such a negative impact on salons, it’s got to be stopped. Teamwork The salon and my team keep me motivated. I am always striving to be better, everyday. I don’t take anything

Vogue Italia

So much more than just a great looking product. Available in the best salons worldwide, KEVIN.MURPHY is distributed in Ireland by National Beauty Distribution. For details or to become a stockist contact +353 21 4217482 or info@nationalbeauty.ie www.loveKMireland.com

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