FRINGE Magazine - Issue 2 by FRINGE Magazine

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SASSY, STRONG, SMART... IT’S KATHERINE SWEENEY

The Big Interview:

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13 Electric Shades

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7 Hot Right Now

28 Cover Star

10 Victory Lap

32 All in the Prep

The products and people you need to know about

Katherine Sweeney of Preen on working it out

Awards season is in full effect, meet the winners

Industry expert Sue Remes on proper planning

15 Instagram Greats 35 Ask The Expert Sean Byran of Cut and Sew on working social media

Expert and coach Ken West on boosting revenue

17 Term Time

37 In The Chair

Training and education courses, on and offline

Top trends and hot products from across the spectrum

21 Get the Look

Hannah Carroll’s winning look from the L’Oréal Colour Trophy semi-final

A stunning extract from Hair by Sam McKnight

10 13

38 Light Show

A UK salon’s clever use of lighting elevates it beyond the ordinary

43 Lightbulb Moment Roy Kennedy of Black Amber on balancing a brand with being dad

Ciaràn O’Sullivan’s winning look from the American Crew All-Star Challenge

24 Hair Hero

Cliona O’ Hanlon of All Dolled Up on supporting local and sustainable

18 Colour Collective

23 Mansplaining

44 Diffusion line

TIGI’s Anthony Mascolo talks to us about his latest launch

48 Final Cut

Andrew Dunne of Hair By Mane on losing sleep to colour commitment

Editor Tara Corristine

Art Director Colm Lougheed

Publishers Kieran Walsh and Will McCreevey

Photography Naomi Gaffey naomigaffey.com

Contributors Sue Remes Ken West

@Fringe-Magazine @FringeHQ @FringeHQ Fringehq.com

For advertising queries, please email Tara@fringehq.com or call 021 421 7482

FRINGE MAGAZINE

CONTENTS

From legends to experts to influencers, what a bumper issue we have for you. Awards season has rolled around again and we bring you the winning looks and backstage scenes, from page 10. As mermaid shades go mainstream, in our Clash of the Titans feature on page 18 we look at the new colour ranges and lines landing this month.

Hair by Sam McKnight is an anthology of the incredible creations by the living legend. See a selection of his iconic images on page 24. There is sage advice from Sue Remes on page 32 as she writes about how having a plan isn’t enough, while value is on Ken West’s mind this issue: he asks if stylists don’t pay for something can they truly know the cost of it. Find out on page 35. And finally on page 44, Anthony Mascolo of Toni& Guy fame talks to us about his latest venture, Infringe, where he meets creatives from across the world using hair as their medium. It’s your summer reading, sorted. Enjoy the sunshine,

PS Check us out on social media for news, reviews and competitions. Got a question or would like to see a topic covered? Drop me a line at Tara@ FringeHQ.com

FRINGE MAGAZINE

Letter from the Editor

STR I V E TO BE U N R I VA L L E D C R E AT E T H E O N E TAKE YOUR PLACE AMONGST THE CRÈME DE LA CRÈME. BECOME A GREAT LENGTHS EXTENSIONIST TO UNLOCK LIMITLESS LOOKS AND CREATIVE POSSIBILITIES. Our extensions are 100% human hair. We have a global reputation for excellence and an inspiring team of expert educators. Great Lengths is in a class of its own. Don’t you want to be a part of it? Find out how you can become a Great Lengths certified stylist.

VISIT GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK/BECOME-A-CERTIFIED-STYLIST

Shop Talk Showing out

Welcoming over 1,000 hairdressers from across Europe, the Schwarzkopf Professional European Essential Looks show was an event to remember. Hooker & Young kickstarted the evening with a showcase of beautiful blondes using the BlondMe colours, with models channelling a 70s vibes across the hair styling and clothing. Creators of the pixelated colour trend, X-presion demonstrated intricate and ingenious colour placement, creating an incredible graphic fringe. Colorama closed the show, combining punk with Tokyo-inspired neon vibes for a futuristic feel. schwarzkopf.com

Shimmer me this À la carte

The colour combinations are endless with L’Oréal’s new #Colourfulhair range. Eight shades can be worn alone, blended or mixed with the clear variant for a more subtle approach. The launch is being supported with a clever colour technique menu that’s sure to perk clients’ interest. loreal.com

94%

of women admit to home colouring their hair but 76 per cent don’t think their efforts live up to a salon service. #StylistsDoItBetter (Source: Wella Statement of Colour)

Kevin Murphy looked to skincare for the solution to bland blonds. “I wanted to create something that brought a light, healthy shine to hair, so I looked at high-end skincare ingredients that create luminous skin. To develop SHIMMER.ME BLONDE (€24) I used mica, a silicate crystal often used for glowing skin. These reflective qualities act like thousands of tiny mirrors on your hair that reflect light and even out the appearance of the colour, giving a uniform shine to even the most dull and lifeless blonde hair. I used a silver pearlescent pigment along with a lavender colour enhanced mica to further enhance the effect on blonde tones.” This leave-in treatment is sulphate and paraben-free and goes on working for 24 hours. nationalbeauty.ie

FRINGE MAGAZINE

News and reviews

Shop Talk News and reviews Summer saviours

Get set for the sun with these holiday helpers A pocket-sized pick-me-up for skin, slip Guinot’s Mini Lift Éclat Beauté (€18 for two ampules) into your carry-on for a glowing complexion. Pop an ampule and apply before make-up for smoother, calmer, more toned skin. uk.guinot.com

FRINGE MAGAZINE

While a glow is good, shiny skin is a no-no. Pore Perfecting and Matifying Foundation from Clarins contains micropearls that soak up moisture, and red clay to minimise sebum. With soft focus pearls, the result is radiant skin with finer pores and lines. Available in five shades, €34. int.clarins.com

To celebrate its 25th birthday, mega multi-tasker Huile Prodigieuse by Nuxe has reinvented its formula, adding Tsubaki oil which is proven to protect the skin from over 90 per cent of free radicals, reduce stretch marks by 30 per cent, and repair and condition hair. Snap up a limited edition while they last, €33. uk.nuxe.com

Look out for the Luxury Travel Essentials For Her kit from Elemis, set to hit counters in June. Containing our favourite Pro-Collagen Marine cream and Pro-Radiance Cleanser, it also has an eye, lip and make-up remover, enzyme peel and toner, shower cream and body oil, and the natty little bag was created by designer of the moment, Misha Nonoo. Approx €72. elemis.com New to Ireland, Phyto is an all-natural haircare brand that includes supplements, shampoos, hydrators and treatments for every hair type and texture, and their Phytoplage L’Original Protective Sun Oil (€19) protects the hair from sun, sea, salt and chlorine. grahamanthony.ie

Walk this way

The Become The Bride menu from Great Lengths features the most coveted bridal hairstyles for SS/17, from up-dos and braids to waves, using their human hair extensions, and this year’s collection is backed up by a new website section dedicated to inspiring brides with themes, looks and a timeline to help them plan their bridal hair journey from the first consultation, through to the big day. Check out their online video tutorials at greatlengthshair.co.uk/bridal

Numbers game

Did you know that the motor in Dyson’s Supersonic Professional Edition hairdryer spins over 10 times faster than a jet engine? And that since launching in Ireland last June, each one will have dried over 1,870 heads of hair. A magnetic concentrator delivers airflow as wide as your brush and intelligent heat control ensures hair is perfectly protected. dyson.ie/supersonic-professional

Roll up! Staying power

Grey isn’t going away any time soon but it isn’t a one shade fits all approach. With that in mind, Osmo have added three grey shades to their Ikon colour range: Light Aluminium, Medium Graphite and Dark Anthracite. Micro-Connective Technology allows for lower ammonia content to significantly improve hair conditioning, longer-lasting colour clarity and multidimensional shine. osmo.uk.com

News just in...

YS Park Combs allow the stylist to work quickly while still being gentle on hair and now they are available in Ireland. Comfortable, tactile and durable, they can withstand heat up to 428°F. nationalbeauty.ie

Step right up for Invisibobble’s new Circus collection featuring four metallic colours in Original, Nano and Power. Strong hold without the kinks. nationalbeauty.ie

FRINGE MAGAZINE

Hat tip to the Hot Tools 32mm Extra Long 24k Gold Curling Iron which scooped the Best Curling Tongs/Wand award at the 2017 Hair Awards Super 60 awards. Sometimes bigger is better. nationalbeauty.ie

Winning ways

Top hairstylists go head to head at

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L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2017 Semi Final Hairdressers from salons throughout the country showed off their creative kudos at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Semi Final event last April, vying for a place in the grand final of the 51st L’Oréal Colour Trophy Awards, which takes place on 3 July. The judging panel is a lineup of the most celebrated names in international hairdressing: Siobhan Jones (Headmasters), Nathan Walker (Trevor Sorbie), Mark Woolley (Electric Hairdressing), Chris Williams (Rush) and Alan Edwards (Alan Edwards). The overall winner will present their winning look at the International L’Oréal Professionnel Business Forum in Seville from 2-4 October. The 2016 winner Dylan Bradshaw salon, represented by Aoife Bradley and Jenny Dawson, went on to win this major international industry event in Lisbon last October. lorealcolourtrophy.ie

Revealing the winners of the

At a stylish lunch ceremony in Fade Street Social last May, the second Great Lengths Ireland awards were celebrated. TV3’s Deric Hartigan acted as the host and MC for the afternoon and he was joined by Great Lengths salons from every corner of Ireland along with their VIP clients including Britain’s Next Top model contestant, Alannah Beirne, model Lynn Kelly, and radio presenter Rebecca McKinney. Judging the awards was no mean feat and tasked with the job were celebrity hair stylist Michael Leong, Fringe Magazine Editor Tara Corristine and model, Holly Carpenter. Chris King, Great Lengths Ireland said, “It has been a delight to host the awards in Ireland – there are so many talented stylists here. Past entries and winners have blown us away and this year was no exception.”

Length – Chelsea Kearney, Blown Away, Cork Volume – Laura Francis, Hession Hairdressing, Dublin Colour – Anne-Marie Hoare, Ceira Lambert’s Hair Consultancy, Dublin Bridal Creation – Niamh Kennedy, Willow Hair Boutique, Waterford Avant Garde Creation – Emma Leung, Kelly Leung Hair Design, Dublin The Great Lengths Trophy in Extension Excellence – Valerie Patterson, Cowboys and Angels, Dublin

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Great Lengths Ireland awards

Damien N V innie Keaol an, President of th Mar k Sty lerns, IHF Bar ber of the IHF, w ith Club P av il ions, Swore Year, Peter ds, Co Dub lin

ly, nathan Heaar, an w ith Jo Ye Damien Nol Hairdresser of the IHF Tr ainee Galw ay Bellissimo,

Cutting Crew

The IHF National Championships 2017 took place in Croke Park last March and over 350 of Irelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most talented hairdressers and barbers battled for honours in the individual competitions, provincial championships and the ultimate titles; IHF Irish Hairdresser of The Year, IHF Irish Barber of the Year and IHF Trainee Hairdresser of the Year.

Damien Nol an IHF Junior Te w ith Melissa Thompson , Salon 2, Sligoam Irel and member,

owd, and Ciaran D , Ger ry Hynesr Hairdresser of the Year IHF Leinste airdressing, Occasions H are Naas, Co K ild

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Gemma Cros and IHF Ir ish san, IHF Connaught Gemma Cros Hairdresser of the Year, san Hair, Slig o

na Williams, Damien Nolan with Zhy of the Year, ser res ird Ha IHF Munster rk Co Lloyds Hair,

Damien Nolan with Jen IHF Ulster Hairdresser na McKenna, Serenity Hair & Beaut of the Year, y, Cavan

Credit Rossiter Photography

Boys’ Club

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Adam Mir from the United Kingdom was crowned Global Champion at The American Crew All-Star Challenge, held in Brussels last May. Thousands of stylists from around the world submitted their take on the modern, classic American Crew man, with the top 15 finalists taking part in a two-day event culminating in a spectacular runway show. Ireland was represented by Ciaràn O’Sullivan of Wayne Lloyd Hair in Cork, see his creation on page23.

As Sean Bryan, Director of Cut & Sew Barber Shop points out, social media is free – it’s time to get on it FRINGE MAGAZINE

“Cut & Sew is a modern day barbershop with a hint of old school. We operate slightly differently: we do walk-ins and appointments and we look after ladies haircuts. We have three stores with a fourth opening in the summer in Dundrum. We focus on what we do within our own shop, as we grow barbers from our training academy. There is enough talent within our company to not look outside our shops walls, but of course we take inspiration from Europe and America. We are the only shop in Ireland I think that has a Facebook, Snapchat, Instagram, Twitter, YouTube account, a clothing line and their own products! But I could be wrong! In regards to social media, it’s a tool, and like every tool you need to know how to use it. Instagram is the best. But as I read in GQ a few years back, ‘what you put in is what you get back.’ These platforms are free so why not use them!” cutandsew.ie

“

I was doing a model’s haircut for the Wella TrendVision in Evan Doherty’s studio and this is his lovely dog. I gave her a trim mid-shoot!

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Discover your nearest salon at paul-mitchell.co.uk or call 0845 659 0011

Fancy taking some tips from the London Hairdresser of the Year 2016? On 19 June, log on to Hairdressing Live to see Luke Benson conducting Plan, Perfect, Perform, a live class mapping out a haircut from long to short using varying cutting techniques and tools. If management is your motivation, educator and business coach Antony Whitaker (right) will share strategies and systems to help develop your leadership skills on 24 July. Both courses cost just €20 and offer lifetime access. Seehairdressinglive.com for more.

Ideal for those looking to create a photographic collection, Lights, Camera, Action, Inspire, Shoot features award-winning hairdressers covering seasonal trends, before creating a look to be professionally shot. Whether you want to create images for print or social media or display them in your salon, the pro team will advise you on how to choose the right model, makeup artist and stylist, as well as all the dos and don’ts when it comes to working with a professional photographer. This two-day course runs from 21-22 June in Pzaazz salon, Clarendon St, Dublin 2 and costs €1,725, contact ASKacademy@henkel.com.

Calling all Munster salons, the Grow My Retail Business full-day seminar focuses on understanding the ever-changing retail market and how to capitalise on it. Covering product selections to match your target market, effective sales strategies, consultations, merchandising and ways to train, motivate and incentivise your team to be at their best, this one-day course costs €290 and takes place on 12 June in Hennessy Hair and Beauty, Cork city. Contact ASKacademy@henkel.com.

Hair colour covers the spectrum this season, but not every dye job will hit the spot. The Colour ER course from Redken will teach you rescue techniques with step-by-step formulations as well as expert guidance on lighteners, tint back techniques and chromatics. This two-day diploma course will take place in Dublin on 13-14 June and costs £260 (approx. €305). Contact 0800 028 3448. Ultimate Man is a one-day advanced course offering contemporary barbering to salons looking to develop their male clientele, from consultations to colours and adapting catwalk looks for everyday wear. Taking place at the Wella Studio in Dublin on 6 June this course costs €230, contact 01 416 0900 or wellastudiodublin@cotyinc. com to secure a place.

Fail to plan, plan to fail: the Fantastic Salon Management Program from Nexx Generation offers strategies on boosting profits, developing a committed team and improving customer loyalty, taught by someone who knows. Alan Austin Smith began his career at Vidal Sassoon aged 16 and has since taught over 100,000 hairdressers. This one-day course will take place on 20 June in the Clarion Hotel, Liffey Valley and costs €200 per person. Log on toxpertpro.ie/Academy to book.

Time to get ahead

FRINGE MAGAZINE

Training Day

Clash of the Titans It’s the summer of colour as bold brights and pretty pastels go toe to toe. Whatever hue your clients choose, ensure you know the top products and key trends.

FRINGE MAGAZINE

Red hot The winning look at the Affinage Global Colour Award eschewed on-trend mermaid shades for a primary pop. Prism, a burst of crimson, was created by Zoology salon in East London and inspired by a pop princess. “We wanted to recreate Rihanna’s iconic 2010 bright red crop hairstyle,” says Mark Mountney. “To add a modern twist we added a greater range of shades and tones to add depth and intrigue to the look. We also added a sheen to the hair as metallics are a hot trend for in 2017.” affinage.com

True Blue

FRINGE MAGAZINE

From teal blue to grass green and everything in between: Paul Mitchell’s latest line of semi-permanent colour has 18 vibrant intermixable shades. Pop XG has a rich creamy texture for controlled application, lasts six weeks and no developer is required. nationalbeauty.ie

Purple Reign

Want to know what the experts use? Dylan Bradshaw relies on Shu Uemura’s Colour Lustre Sulphate Free Shampoo and Conditioner to keep colour vibrant; “This line has refining lipids that not only protect colour from fading and damage, but also restore the hair’s natural varnish, and your hair will smell amazing. I love them.”

Will purple edge out peach as summer’s musthave hue? Joico are certainly betting on it, adding the Vero Violet collection to their range. Five shades of permanent purple join the ranks and can be worn alone or blended with a base colour. xpertpro.ie

According to new research from Wella, fashion colours are becoming more popular with almost a quarter of women saying they would experiment if they were brave enough. 65% of respondents credit a professional hair colour as a massive confidence boost, compared to just 9% when using a home dye. The takeaway for salons? A happy customer is a repeat customer and clients are willing to try new shades with encouragement and advice from trusted stylists. “As colour experts, we spend many years mastering our skills and knowledge and can therefore achieve the right type of results our clients want,” says Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals Colour Club. “One of the best parts about our job is seeing the immediate change in a person when they are happy with their professional colour. From the way they look at themselves to the way they hold themselves, witnessing the confidence boost first-hand is so rewarding.” wella.com

Glow in the Dark

Colour trends 2017

Gary Hooker and Michael Young of Hooker and Young share summer’s key colour creations.

Proving that blondes have more fun, Alfaparf Milano’s latest launch is only for the fairer folk. rEvolution Neon is a range of seven electric shades that glow in the dark. Suitable for blonde or pre-lightened hair, the shades can be mixed with the original range and last up to five shampoos. Expect to see this at a festival near you. xpertpro.ie

Rose blush Very much the colour trend of the minute and extremely popular within salons, this fusion of pale pinks and warm blondes creates an almost iridescent sparkle to the hair that looks luxurious and expensive.

Colour threading This technique is designed for face framing placement. Very fine veils of hair are lightened in a delicate way to look as though you’ve just stepped out of the sun.

Marbling

FRINGE MAGAZINE

Similar to balayage as it’s a free-hand application, here the colours are placed in pockets and allowed to fuse into each other around the edges to create a marble-like effect. Colour palettes are subtly different and look great on darker base colours.

Colour melt This technique is the new wave of ombré where colours are applied down the hair and allowed to melt into one another for a seamless effect, often from dark to light although this can be reversed, especially when working with pastel shades. It’s perfect on lighter bases and blondes.

Cool fusion Silver whites and dove greys are still a commonly requested colour look and this technique brings a twist by creating a darker perimeter with lighter sparkling top sections, making the hair look thicker and multidimensional.

Robert Eaton, Creative Director, Russell Eaton Salons “This summer, the focus on rose-gold and pink blonde hues will remain a favourite. The appeal of this trend is that it is so adaptable for anyone regardless of skin tone, natural hair colour or even age. Alongside rose golds, there will definitely be more pops of green showing up in trends, especially as this year’s Pantone colour is Greenery, a beautiful yellow toned green. Combined, the pastel pinks and greens can create some sensational summer inspired looks.”

21 FRINGE MAGAZINE

“I love that experimental pops of colour has become more mainstream and can be translated to our clients on the salon floor. I wanted to showcase the #Colorfulhair range and enhance the colour with toners made from DIA Richesse and DIA Light, and to create some more tones with the Majirel and MajiContrast range. I was inspired by the powder pink-haired Australian model Fernanda Ly: her bright hair colour illuminates her skin tone. With the perfect model and taking further inspiration from beautiful sunsets, my colour theme of choice was a ‘three-tone bleed:’ deep coral at the root, a peach mid-band and a pale pink finish with internal panels of mint green to create this ‘peekaboo effect’. The colour was complemented by a clean, simple cut with slight graduation.”

get the look “I applied some L’Oréal Mythic Oil Original Oil to the mid-length and ends of the hair to soften and add shine to the hair without weighing it down. Hair was then blow dried with the dryer directed downwards to avoid any root lift. I sprayed sections of the hair with Tecni.ART Heat Protection

Peachy Keen Hannah Carroll of Dylan Bradshaw’s perfectly peachy look earned her a spot in the final of the L’Oreal Colour Trophy Star Award. She shares the inspiration and creative behind the look.

Constructor Spray before straightening with irons. Next, I started work on the ‘Bevel.’ I wanted the finished look to be symmetrical so used my model’s cheekbones as a guide to where the bevel would sit, just slightly past her ear. The hair was clamped and pulled down the hair twice. On the third clamp, without using too much tension, I gently turned the irons inwards, holding for seven seconds and then

releasing to create the bevel effect. I let the bevel set by applying flat sectioning grips on either side of the bevel, one above and one below, to ensure it set into place. This was followed with a fine spray of Tecni.ART Anti Static Hair Spray. I sprayed a little on the tips of my fingers and worked through the ends of the hair to give definition. For lasting shine, I finished with a spray of Tecni.ART Crystal Gloss Spray.”

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Get The Look... Natural Flow FRINGE MAGAZINE

Ciaràn O’Sullivan of Wayne Lloyd Hair in Cork scooped the Ireland Country Winner title recently at the American Crew All-Star Challenge. “The All-Star Challenge brings together the next generation of stylists and groomers who are a digitally native group that connects not only with clients behind the chair, but in this new global forum we live in,” said David Raccuglia, founder of American Crew, at this year’s competition. Ciaràn’s win secured him a spot at the Global Final in Brussels and he gave us the lowdown on his look. “I wanted to create an image that worked with the natural flow of the model’s hair, and I used my barbering knowledge and eye to add details and movement. This year, texture has been a massive trend and I feel long hair is going to have its moment so I combined the two and added my own twist by tapering my model’s hair and keeping a decent amount of length at the top, sides and back.”

Get The Look

Working with the flow of the model’s hair I kept the natural movement at the top and sides and then tapered the hair from the occipital bone to the base of the model’s head to create a clean line.

I created clean outlines around the ears and sideburns which are key

I wanted to keep the texture natural so swept minimal product through the top, I used American Crew Boost Powder, American Crew Grooming Cream and American Crew Grooming Spray.

The Maestro

FRINGE MAGAZINE

Hair by Sam McKnight reveals a snapshot of his most amazing creations.

Hair by Sam McKnight, is a compelling anthology of the world-renowned hairstylist’s 40-year career and includes some of the most iconic images in popular culture; Princess Diana’s short, slicked-back style, Madonna’s Bedtime Stories cover, Tilda Swinton channeling David Bowie, both Lady Gaga and her male alter-ego, Jo Calderone, plus countless images of supermodel Kate Moss. McKnight has worked with top fashion photographers – Patrick Demarchelier, Nick Knight, and Mario Testino to name a few – and this beautiful tome is richly illustrated with archival images, magazine covers, snaps from runway shows, and shots by leading fashion photographers, making it a style bible for glorious locks.

Hair by Sam McKnight (Rizzoli New York, £35)

Lineisy Montero wearing a combination of three afro wigs stitched together for British Vogue, February 2016. Photograph by Patrick Demarchelier.

25 FRINGE MAGAZINE

Movement and abstract shapes, sculpted by four wind machines. Magdalena Frackowiak for German Vogue, January 2012. Photograph by Ben Hassett.

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“I actually fell into hair styling by accident. I should have been teaching French to ten year olds. That’s what I had trained to do, but it was never a natural fit. It was the era of David Bowie, disco and glam rock, but the college was full of hippies. Two years into the course, I couldn’t stand it anymore, so I left home and started helping out some friends who owned a hair salon called Josef in Prestwick. There was an American-style burger joint next door with a disco out the back. It all felt frantically glamorous for a market town in Scotland. I drove the van, did odd jobs and finally graduated to the salon floor, doing cuts for kids who wanted a Bowie look or a soul boy wedge. Scots were very cool about their music. And something just clicked. I was good at hair.”

Sara Blomqvist for Chinese Vogue, April 2009. Photograph by Jem Mitchell.

Yin and yang wigs for Kate. British Vogue, September 2000. Photograph by Nick Knight.

27 FRINGE MAGAZINE

Edie Campbell for LOVE magazine, Fall/Winter 2014. Photograph by Tim Walker.

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I grew up in Essex and I left school at 17, I did my first year at A Levels but I wasn’t really applying myself. My mother sat me down and said, ‘you’ll either have to go back next year and work twice as hard as everybody else, or decide what you want to do and get on with it,’ because being my mum, she knew that if I’m doing something I love, I put everything into it. Hairdressing was something I was always interested in, I would be naturally creative and it was an opportunity to be in a creative industry. I love the atmosphere in the hair salon: when you walk in, it’s like walking onto a stage. My mum had wanted to be a hairdresser but was talked out of it by her parents, so she was encouraging. And she knew enough to tell me that if I was going to work in hairdressing I needed to be in a top salon, the West End. She didn’t let me off to the local salon.

I took myself off to London and qualified as a stylist/ technician when I was 19 and was on the floor just before my 20th birthday. It was the West End but it was very cool. The guy I worked for was ex-Toni&Guy. He had been an art director there and managed their Covent Garden branch before opening his own salon. Because it was a smaller salon and team, he nurtured me and put a lot of energy into me, and I just thrived. It was the mid-90s and topnotch session hairdressers, who were freelancing and doing shoots and covers during the week liked to have a base on a Saturday. They’d be coming in, talking about the shoots they’d been on, the location. So early

on, I knew which magazines to look at, where the trends came from; it was very privileged place to be in, very exciting. I was surrounded by highly talented and driven hairdressers. Italian, French, they were all in London because they felt it was the epicentre of hair, and the West End is the epicentre of London when it comes to hair. That was my beginning: I learned there was another world out there, it wasn’t just the salon. At 21, I moved to Dublin. I had been on the floor for two years and I knew it was time for something different. There was a lot of hype about Dublin so I thought, ‘I’ll go for six months.’ Both of my parents are Irish and we were very much brought up with an Irish identity. Looking back now, as a hairdresser I probably was a bit cocky because when you train in London, you are very much conditioned to believe that, ‘this is the place to be, you are the best, we breed the best.’ In one way it’s not a good trait, but at the same time it made me brave, I wasn’t scared of walking into any salon in Dublin. In the end I decided I would go to Toni&Guy because of my UK training. In fact, I sat in the window of this very building waiting to do my interview 21 years ago, aged 21 so it’s very much come full circle. I was the head of education for Toni&Guy for 14 years, I ran the training academy. It’s education and knowledge that make you the best and that give you the professionalism and credibility in what you do. The standard of training in Ireland is very good, there’s

Katherine Sweeney started her career in the hip heart of London before moving to Dublin. As she celebrates 25 years on the salon floor, she talks to us about fit-outs, break-ups and why training is the key to success.

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West End Girl

so many regulations now, you can’t get away without good training. I opened Preen at the tail end of the recession, I got a good rent because it was empty for three years. I came in at the high end of the market, it’s the most competitive end, but I always knew if I was going to open a salon this is how I would do it. My family were able to purchase the premises – my dad is my landlord – so any investment I put into the building, is into the business. That’s a massive advantage to have and I very grateful my family were able to do that. I opened Preen with my husband at the time and it was going to be a family business, but unfortunately it didn’t work out. Three months in, I was thrown in at the deep end – I was dealing with a marriage breakdown, which obviously isn’t easy, and I had a brand new business. It was really hard but I got through it. I remember thinking at the time that the average person going through a breakdown can go into their job and block it out for the day, but because I had clients I’ve been looking after for 20 years, who have gone through my life journey with me, they know everything, so you had to talk about it all day, you had to explain what had happened. That bit was hard. At a time when I needed to be at peak confidence, it had very much been knocked. I drew strength from my family. I just kept going, I didn’t feel I had any choice, it wasn’t an option for me to give up. So much had gone into the fit-out, there was no way I was going to walk away.

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There’s lots of things I won’t do again because I’ve learned from them. You have to do things and make mistakes and allow things to go wrong in order to learn and be better. To bring it back to education, if you’re teaching someone how to cut hair, they aren’t going to get it right the first time: they have to do it over and over and eventually they perfect it. I’ve realised that business is the same. When things go wrong, how you recover can build your confidence, you aren’t as scared of things going wrong, because you know you can deal with it and overcome it. You have to get bashed about in business to get better. I feel that hairdressing is viewed as a fall-back career, I don’t consider it as such. If you went from school to a salon that’s not committed to training, you aren’t going to develop to your full potential. I was lucky because my mum had a flair for hair – I didn’t lick it off a stone – she gave me that direction, so straight away I was in an environment that was very competitive, very passionate, where everyone

wanted to be the best and that’s what it brought out in me. There are people who probably do go into hairdressing as a fall-back but they don’t become the successful ones who are at the top of their game. Assistant wages now are so much higher, as a business owner, a junior is a luxury. In my day I got paid £250 a month, so you could probably have five or six juniors in a small salon. They are a much more expensive commodity now so you want the right ones. And if you’re paying them high wages, you want to put the work into them so they are trained up to do things for you within your business. In my time, you became a hairdresser for the love of it, because you knew you could earn a better wage doing something else. It made you very focused on your training because you wanted to qualify and earn more money. Because the wages are much higher now, you get a few drifters floating in. As a salon owner I have to weed those ones out because I want the juniors that really want to be hairdressers and I will put everything into them. I think you are going to see a re-focus on education, on staff. We are over the worst of the recession, we don’t know how we are going to be affected by Brexit, but I feel salons have got a bit more money to invest in their teams and strive to provide their clients with the best possible standard of hairdressing. If someone’s been on a course and I’m not hearing them talk to their clients about it, I’ll bring it up. With social media now, it’s all about telling people what you’re doing. If you’re investing in training, you need to let people know about it. I totally value the importance of a strong online presence – all of my competitors have one so it’s important that I am up there with the best. I do a lot of it myself which is something I struggle with. I could do with someone taking it over but in the past, I have found it’s not exactly how I want it to be, and because Preen is my salon and it’s a reflection of me, it’s very hard to get inside my head. For the business, Facebook is still very important although Instagram seems to be taking over. That’s why you have to be across them all. It can be a double-edged sword as it can be hard to control at times, if your team members are posting, keeping certain guidelines in place so your brand is being represented consistently. That can be challenging, but it’s about being aware of it. We had a company come in and focus on gathering reviews

It won’t replace providing great services in a salon. It’s not good enough to be just a great hairdresser, you have to give the full package. You have to have the bells and whistles as well to stand out. The most challenging thing, the further on you go, is staying consistent and the better reputation you get, the higher the expectations of the new clients coming to your salon. We have to live up to our own reputation. preendublin.ie

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As the owner, I always ask new clients how they heard about us, because I want to know what aspects of what I am doing, is working. It’s advertising, having good relationships with the press, with journalists. We have a PR and we work with bloggers and influencers as well so it’s all-round.

from our clients because it’s been proven that 80 per cent of people will go on an online review as much as a personal recommendation. Even my mum, if she’s going to a new restaurant, going to a hotel, the first thing she does is google reviews. So it’s important that your salon has review content online.

Ideas are only as good as their execution I have been in the beauty industry for over 25 years. Of all the lessons I have learned, this is one of the most important: The difference between a good idea and a great idea is execution. Being a service-based business is core to every salon. Until we can figure out how to cut a head of hair over the internet (hopefully never!) the consumer will be required to walk through the door for our services. We are fortunate to remain a destination business in these changing times. This offers challenges and opportunities, however, because service-based businesses – like consumers – are continually evolving.

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Our industry expert tells us how to turn a plan into action

Glamsquad, which debuted in New York City in 2014 and now operates in four major cites across North America, is a great example. It is an on-demand beauty biz that has an app and website where clients can book luxury beauty services like hair and make-up in their homes or hotels. It’s all about bringing beauty services directly to clients. Subscription services like Birch Box are introducing new products to the consumer based on their needs and their preferences, delivering new products to a client’s door step monthly. These new models are posing questions around a salon’s relevance, unique selling points and how salons compete and remain attractive to consumers in an ever-changing market place. The key to a successful destination business is making sure your clients have a unique experience that brings them back again and again. This can be tricky in a service-based business because there are so many moving parts. Like the old saying goes, the devil is in the detail and those details need to be thought through on a continual basis.

Salons must continuously define and refine service standards and be consistent around the execution of new ideas and service. This means

salons will need to continually look at how to improve their service standards and how to best delight clients to earn their repeat business.

Before executing any new idea, ask yourself some important questions around what result you hope to achieve: • • • • • •

How does the idea or initiative fit with and promote your Unique Selling Point? What unanswered questions or needs does it answer? How will this new initiative improve our business? Will it help us attract new clients? Will it serve our employees? How will it make all of our lives better – ours and our clients?

Start with the end in mind – what is the outcome you hope to achieve with the new initiative? What will it bring to the business or how will it enhance what you are already doing?

Determine how you are going to keep your focus, stay true to your plan and achieve your long-term goals as a team. No one person is, or ever has been, responsible for a successful outcome of an idea or a shift in the business. If every single person in your salon is not on board and in love with the idea, your chance of failure increases exponentially with each person in doubt. Figure out how you are going to communicate throughout the launch, the execution and the ongoing activities. Most importantly, define what success looks like so everyone has the same expectation of achievement.

Some examples: • • • • • • • •

Loyalty programs New service offerings New talent training programs Salon improvements New products or brands New delivery channels for your business Cause marketing or other partnerships Events

Once you have answered these questions, you can begin to define the critical first step(s) you will need to take to achieve success. The first step is the most important piece of the puzzle. You may not know what the second or third steps are, but taking the first step can help you define how you will go forward, so spend some time applying critical thinking and asking thoughtful questions. Do not move off step one until you and your staff are crystal clear on the desired outcomes and can articulate the end game. Once you have defined your first step and the desired outcome, then fill in the middle – this is your execution plan. When you are ready to move to the execution phase of your project or initiative, determine how you will communicate your plan, goals and expectations, but more importantly, how you will keep this message alive. It’s kind of like a

BEWARE: You will experience setbacks. It is all part of the learning process. I will go so far as to say, be prepared to fail. I’ve realised over the years that anticipating the possibility of failing removes the surprise and pain along the way and turns failed projects into building blocks for future successes. Create a plan that anticipates issues that may arise along the way, and constantly communicate not only your successes but also your failures. They are equally weighted to your learning experience and important for every member of the team.

Start with the end in mind – what is the outcome you hope to achieve with the new initiative? What will it bring to the business or how will it enhance what you are already doing? The unique and wonderful thing about failure is, it informs us in a far more profound way than success. Failure teaches us not only what we must do, it holds the mirror up to our actions and helps us be prepared when sneaky behaviours like laziness, lack of focus or negativity (all intrinsic to the human race) come into play.

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Defining great execution Launching any new salon initiative takes careful planning before, during and after your launch. Let’s break it down:

marriage – it’s all smiles walking down the aisle, but once the honeymoon is over, the dayto-day realities set in. Business is hard work, change is hard work. You will need to put some clear objectives in place and outline agreedupon strategies so that when the going gets tough, the team knows what to expect and everyone is working toward shared goals.

Personally, I have embraced the role failure has played in my life and would not be where I am today without learning the lessons I have learned each time failure has shown up in my life. Always pay attention Regardless if you are running a program or a new initiative for the short-term, build in ways to assess whether your plan is working. Plans don’t always work the way you initially envision them, but that is no reason to scrap the plan altogether. Building in ways to assess your success helps you to determine whether or not your initiative needs to be tweaked, reorganised, or moved away from altogether. Create solid documentation along the way so that you are creating a history of your efforts. Create scoring activity that you can use to assess your plans weekly or monthly. Not only will you be able to look back on ideas that you try that were successful, you’ll also be able to examine the ideas that were less successful and learn from the outcome. This data will help you think about your business in new and interesting ways. It may even inform your ongoing efforts in ways you have not yet considered.

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A very successful friend of mine who works in medical sales, has a mantra he lives by; ‘If you are going to lose, lose quickly.’ And though I don’t disagree with this sentiment, it has been my experience in the planning and execution of any new idea, you need to take the long view. Changing behaviour, launching new initiatives or building your learning toolbox, all take time. As the old saying goes, patience is a virtue. In this case it is the necessary ingredient to success!

SUE REMES: THE INSIDE STORY Sue Remes fell in love with the beauty industry while working at a Clinique counter. She swiftly worked her way up to Regional Education Manager for the cosmetic giant before moving to Aveda as National Sales Manager. As Vice President of Luxury for Mars Advertising, she expanded her knowledge of building brand equity, driving volume, enhancing and expanding brand presence. In 1993 she set up Sue Remes Resources where she has earned a reputation as a leading industry consultant, creating valuable education programs, marketing strategies and sales processes that build brands and create customer loyalty. She has worked with organisations such as Kiehl’s Since 1851, Wella, Frédéric Fekkai, Matrix, Lancôme, Sebastian International, Murad, Kevin.Murphy and The Body Shop. sueremes.com

There appears to be two main issues regarding the lack of profitability in salons today: lack of clients and low average income per client. Regarding the first, as we know that the population is not declining, then the reality is they are visiting salons less frequently. Accurate, validated research shows us that whereas stylists like to think that their average client visits every six weeks, the reality is nearer to ten. To address this, a salon needs to focus on having a clear rebooking process and set and monitor rebooking performance standards for the salon and for each individual team member. Often a stylist thinks they have asked a client if they want to rebook but what they in fact do is give their clients a list of reasons why not to rebook. How often do you hear this: ‘Shall I book your next appointment or do you need to check with your diary, phone, husband, wife, children, friends, cat, dog or goldfish and then give us a call?’ After being reminded of all of the things that they really need to need to check just in case, the client then says ‘OK I’ll give you a call’ and the stylist thinks that they have done their job! A more proactive and productive approach could be. ‘As you know, to keep your hair looking as fabulous as it does today, it will need re-cutting in six weeks. I know that you like to come in on Saturday morning early, and as you know I get booked up way in advance, so to avoid disappointment, I have already booked you for Saturday the 10th at 9.00am. I have written this down for you and if you do need to rearrange then please call us. We will also send you a text reminder before the day’. The second challenge is raising the average spend per client. Firstly, are your prices correct or too low, or are your team wary of upgrading their clients? This is often caused by a paradigm in the heads of our team. Many stylists

Ken West

have never paid for a haircut. When they were at school their parents used to pay for them and then they got a job in a salon and haircuts became free. They have never parted with their own cash and therefore a haircut has no value to them. If it does have a value then that value is €0.00, because that is what they have always ‘paid’. So when they come to charging a client, their perception is that a haircut is expensive. It therefore follows that any form of service or product upgrade is even more expensive. Heaven knows what they think of the price a bottle of quality shampoo and conditioner.

“Often a stylist thinks they have asked a client if they want to rebook but what they do is give their clients a list of reasons why not to rebook.” They also perceive the word value to equal cheap, so when they hear the expression ‘value for money’ they automatically focus on low cost. Warren Buffett said ‘Price is what you pay. Value is what you get’. Some people think that a Rolls Royce is great value because it is the ultimate in automotive engineering, quality and luxury. They have worked hard to own one and the fact that it gets them from A to B is absolutely not why they bought it. A Ford Fiesta would do that just as well! Lastly, and if you ask me to I will write on this subject, are your team selling haircuts or are they fulfilling dreams? If they find out what their clients truly want, then they will be happy to pay to upgrade to fulfil their ‘dreams’. Stylists have all of the answers; if their clients dream of a different colour, they can do it; if they dream of better condition, they can do it; if they dream of a different look, then they can do it, and if they can’t then that is yet another issue for another day.

has been a part of 3·6·5 Salon Education for over 25 years and coaching salon owners for over a decade. As a leading business expert, Ken regularly contributes to titles including Hairdressers Journal and Salon Business and he has a monthly column in Creative Head. Ken is passionate about coaching salon businesses to achieve their goals. What are the issues that matter to you? What topics would you like help with? Share your questions with Ken, email me at Tara@fringehq.com.

Do you want more customer visits and a higher income per client? Expert and coach Ken West offers his insights

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ON TRENDS From a haircare perspective, I think there is going to be a surge in hair exfoliation this year. Kevin.Murphy have a great product, Maxi Wash, which we use to prep certain hair types for accepting chemical services. It helps to bring down the pH of the hair while closing the cuticle.

skills training into our education strategy along with personal self-development and affirmation modules to ensure the Mini and Midi Dolls are equipped with the confidence and the trade knowledge skillset to deal with any issue they come up against. ON REGULATION The hairdressing industry in Ireland needs to be more educationally formal and legally regulated than it currently is. I think

IN THE CHAIR

ON SOCIAL MEDIA Social media is a crucial and an integral way in which we market our salon today and we have used minimal marketing campaigns outside of social media platforms. Instagram is where it is all happening. As a business we can create a story, a mood board of our work and brand along with behind-the-scenes personalised content like instastories.

harvesting techniques to ensure that the range is of the very highest natural quality. I would love to see our industry leaders begin to make more conscious choices about where our day-to-day resources come from.

ON SUSTAINABLE BUSINESS Profitable sustainability and utilising renewable resources is of utmost importance to me: from suppliers to the various

ON SELF DEVELOPMENT I would love to see a more mindful leadership approach brought through the hairdressing business. All Dolled Up incorporates communication

Creative Director of All Dolled Up Clíona O’ Hanlon on creating a sustainable business and the lack of government support. it should be compulsory for every salon to have all staff trained to a minimum basic requirement as seen in other European countries. As hairdressers, we deal with chemicals that touch our clients’ skin, this should be taken into serious consideration not only for the health of the hair but for the health of the client. ON SUPPORT The government needs to be more supportive

of SME’s. They have been the lifeblood of the economy during the tough years of the recession. We are basically unpaid tax collectors for the revenue and at times can be treated appallingly and not with the integrity and appreciation we deserve. Any business that creates conscious ecofriendly systems and procedures to reduce carbon footprint should get some type of tax relief from the government. Banks could also be mindful of the SME’s that funneled money into the accounts through the rough times and be more supportive of the businessmen and women who helped to get Ireland back on its feet. Naturally I would love to see clients getting behind such businesses and contribute to a wiser economy, and be proud to support business that make a difference to the world we live in. ON FUTURE PLANS I’ve come through a series of changes in business and since becoming a mom two years ago. My pre-baby career goals and ambitions don’t seem as meaningful. While my passion is certainly in business growth and development, I intend focusing on my business operating independently of me. I am launching a business blog in early summer: Behind the Brand will cover topics from interviewing to inspiring along with stress management tips and tools I use to keep me grounded. I’d like to think I will become an ecological advocate for change within our industry and who knows where this will lead. I have a guideline and direction in which I want to go but I’m open enough to allow for change along the way.

ON FAVOURITES I’m obsessed with undone textured lob, dishevelled hair coupled with a sunkissed balayage. I don’t favour harsh, unnatural edgy cuts and colours, although I do understand their importance for freedom of personal expression, it’s just not a style that ever appealed to me.

operations systems I uphold in salon, all my business endeavours are considerate of a more sustainable future for our global environment and future generations to come. I have recently become Munster’s first flagship Kevin.Murphy exclusive salon. Kudos to this Australian brand who, when searching the world for their ingredients, looks for companies that use micro cultivation, organic growing practices or ecologically sound

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ON BEING THE BOSS From a very early age I always knew I wanted to own my business just like my father, and hairdressing happened to be the conduit. Irish hairdressers are at the forefront of our trade internationally and for such a small country, we don’t give ourselves enough credit for the talent that emerges from our shores.

Fifty Shades of Grey A palette of cool tones in wood and slate with clever use of panelling and light defines this salon’s new look

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They may be 35 years in business but John and Julie Hensmans understand that innovation and reinvention is the key to continued success. A family affair, the couple run their two award-winning salons with daughter Gemma, and the Northampton branch recently underwent a complete redesign that took six weeks. “It was a total refit from floor to ceiling,” director Julie Hensmans tells us, but working around the building and shutting down each individual area at a time enabled the salon to keep trading. The result was five stunning new areas: HensMANS, the styling and colour lounge,

the Academy, and for some rest and relaxation, a beauty and wellbeing area and… a bar! “We have been established since 1980 and to stay up-to-date and provide the best experience for both our clients and our stylists, we refit every five to eight years,” Julie says. “I designed it myself using Pinterest, I looked mainly at Art Deco boutique hotels for ideas.” Inspiration also came in the form of the Glasgow School of Art and a famous local Georgian house,

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78 Derngate that was remodelled in 1916 by the celebrated Scottish architect and designer, Charles Rennie Mackintosh. “The inspiration from 78 Derngate was the use of clean, strong lines on the wooden paneling and the upright partitions, and the use of bold geometric shapes.” The cool colour was recommended by the creative designer on the project, Jo Miles from IBD Creative. “We used various shades of grey, with little blasts of colour from the collection images we have around the salon. We used grey slate floor tiles to keep the clean continuity.” Julie employed clever tricks to create distinct areas within the salon such as the vented screens which diffuse noise at reception and lend an air of privacy towards the back of the salon. “The wooden screen separates the back wash areas to give it a relaxed and private feel. The screen is used to separate the area but doesn’t totally block it out. We also play different music in each zone using the Sonos sound system and Spotify.” Unusual and interesting lighting choices feature throughout the salon. “Putting the new lights in was a challenge but well worth it. I believe it is crucial to have the right light to produce amazing hair, so the subtle lighting was kept to the relaxing areas and the waiting areas, with a mix of bright lights for cutting zones and the use of led lights for a softer feel. We also have the fantastic, light-up colour-

mixing bar that changes colour. We love this area that has a Corian worktop with three sinks, all that are totally colour resistant – it works perfectly.” There’s even a pick ‘n mix sweetie bar for peckish clients and a granite table with comfy chairs away from the mirrors for those who need to catch up with work. Situated behind the reception – a smart way to encourage walk-ins – HensMANS is the ultimate ‘man cave’ replete with vintage elements. Don’t be fooled into thinking these beautiful details are merely decorative, each has a long history in the salon and a job! “We have had the barber chairs for 30 years, they are originals from the 1950s and we fell in love with them and purchased them from a barber shop in London. Every time we re-fit, we keep them. They are seriously heavy!”

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“We have been established since 1980 and to stay up-to-date and provide the best experience for both our client’s and our stylists, we refit every five to eight years”

“The silver box is an original hot towel machine, we have had it a long time. The silver bottles are original old barber water sprays, we also have talc puffers, razors and shaving bowls all sourced from vintage shops. The trunk we have had for 30 years, it was a removal chest but it’s very useful for storage!” No visit to the salon would be complete without a quick stop at Hensmans Bar, a central hub with pristine panelling in the signature grey that serves beers and wine with snazzy optics delivering shots of Jack Daniels. Ultimate relaxation in beautiful surrounds. hensmans.com

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have had the barber chairs for 30 years, they are originals from the 1950s and we fell in love with them and purchased them from a barber shop in London. Every time we re-fit, we keep them.â&#x20AC;?

(021) 4217482

Roy Kennedy on growing the Black Amber brand

When did you realise this was the career for you? Both my mum and dad are hairdressers so I was no stranger to the industry. I was brought in and out of salons as a kid and loved the atmosphere and the people who worked there – they were unique and quirky – it was like having another family. When I did decide to start in hairdressing I felt it was not a job but a career. What training course helped you most? Funnily enough, I never actually graduated as a hairdresser but always had a love for colour. I completed my L’Oréal colour degree and this was the biggest decider as to where my career would go from there. I became the Colour Manager in Peter Mark Stephen’s Green and went on management training with the company, I loved the idea of being a leader. This ultimately gave me the confidence to open my own salon. What defines an effective consultation? Being able to communicate with other people is crucial in our industry. I believe clients don’t see the importance of a consultation the way we as hairdressers do. I think if you can connect with a client and they have an understanding of what you are going to do, this will set you up to satisfy your client. Each client is an individual and some need more time and commitment than others. What parts of the business do you struggle with? I have a three-salon group and delegating time to each of them can be a challenge. Delegation is key. It allows members of the team to stand out and shine within the company. Juggling everyday life and business can have its moments, as a dad of two girls with a busy salon group needs huge time and commitment. What do you look for when hiring? Someone who is easy to have a conversation with and can be themselves, who is confident and has a passion for hairdressing. We have a very unique industry and I believe it takes a certain type of person to be a hairdresser. I am almost 10 years in business and I love seeing the younger generation come through with their ideas and passion and twist on hairdressing.

How do you keep staff motivated? We focus heavily on education and are fortunate to partner up with some amazing product companies – this gives us the insight into what is going on outside us. We run trips abroad throughout the year and this brings us together and keeps the team of over 40 strong. Sometimes the simplest way to keep them motivated is to have the younger assistants show us what they are learning. How do you encourage repeat business? You need to be consistent and believe in your brand. If you have a strong brand then you need to filter this down to each member of your team. I don’t believe it is good enough now to just be a great hairdresser; you have to be different and stand out from your competition. Clients will come back time and again to a team and brand that they love. A good brand is infectious and your clients are your best way of encouraging repeat and new business into the salon. Is there anything you would do differently? There is nothing I would do differently however I have made some mistakes and I continue to learn each day. Although I am in business a long time, there are new tasks and challenges each day. The growth of the company has been extremely fast within the last couple of years and my position within it has changed greatly. I went from being a colourist five days a week to now doing clients two days a week and

focusing on the company the other days. What do you want to improve on? This year I plan to spend more time on the salon floor working closely with each member of the team. If I can learn what the team needs this will help me to grow and continue to develop the Black Amber brand. Please share a career highlight. The biggest highlight has been the growth of the company in the last four years. We launched in 2008 and opened the second branch in 2010. We successfully traded through a number of tough years and in 2015 we opened our Gorey branch. This was a huge step – not only were we expanding, but we were stepping outside of Dublin. The company has doubled its team since 2015 and continues to grow at this rate. What are the future plans? We are always on the lookout for another unit so who knows, maybe salon number four. We are also honoured to be asked to do the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final show in July so we will have a huge focus on this. blackamber. ie

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Lightbulb Moment

A world vision

New from TIGI’s Anthony and Pat Mascolo, INFRINGE is a new annual that celebrates hair creatives across the globe. We caught up with the man himself.

What was it growing up in the family business like? I’d have to say supportive. My brothers and my father enabled me to do everything I wanted to do from an early age. My older brother Bruno took me on photoshoots and hair shows when I was still a teenager. Their support allowed me to progress quickly. I started hairdressing when I was 12 – working after school and in the holidays. I never thought of doing anything else. Do you look at hair with a photographer or a stylist’s eye? Both! I started doing photography because I was often unhappy at the results I got when working with photographers. My wife, Pat, bought me a camera and got herself a makeup kit and we moved on from there. That was over 30 years ago. Having the knowledge of both hair and photography enables me to get the results I want.

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It seems like hair and makeup are now defining the fashion trends - would you agree? We have always said that we are ‘fashion interpreters’. Ultimately, whether you are creating a photographic image, working on a fashion show or cutting a new look for a client, I believe it’s about the overall look that makes an image statement. Whose style do you admire? Does anyone have a distinctive style these days or do people change their style depending on what they are doing? There are definitely designers who have influenced me over the years. Vivienne Westwood, and I like the work of Dutch couturier, Ires van Herpen, whose beautiful clothes we’ve used for several of our shows, and worked with her backstage at Paris Fashion Week. What traits are crucial to being a successful hairdresser? Training! I believe you should always aim to improve yourself and never stop learning. Then you need to research to inspire and motivate your work.

What do you think of the Irish hairdressing scene? Over the years I have been to Ireland many times. There have always been some great and very talented Irish hairdressers and I’ve had the pleasure to work with quite a few! What trend do you love/loathe and why? I don’t think it’s about liking or disliking a trend, but appreciating why it’s happened and looking at ways to adapt it to your own taste. When you look back at your work, some seem remarkably fresh even after 20 or more years, but others look outdated, but that’s not to say they weren’t fun to create at the time. You believe that you have to learn the rules to break them. What’s your number one rule? Suitability! The hairstyle you create has to be right for the person. What’s your favourite product that you have developed? The Bed Head Stick was a moment that changed everything. Culturally it was launched at the right time and it was the birth of the Bed Head brand.

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Anthony Mascolo, International Artistic Director of TIGI International Creative Team, and his wife and TIGI makeup director, Pat Mascolo.

What is the concept behind INFRINGE? Our original thought was to create a visual online magazine to showcase our own work and allow us to develop a new concept together that wasn’t based on building a brand or education, but was pure passion and inspiration. Quickly it became more about other people’s creative work than our own. Whilst INFRINGE is about hair, we wanted to not only appeal to hairdressers, but also artists, photographers and people within the world of beauty and fashion for whom hair is an important aspect of their work. The content is truly global. Where did you find all the artists, photographers and hairdressers? We went after them! Our team does an amazing amount of detective work, rooting out stories all over the world through endless research. For example, they found out about an American barber called Anthony Mancinelli, who is the Guinness Book Record holder as ‘oldest practicing barber’. He just turned 106! The team travelled to the salon where he worked in a small town outside New York, met the man himself even got their hair cut by him!

Future Youth: inspired by the London Street Sce effect on emerging trends

What were your favourite moments working on INFRINGE? One of my personal favourite moments was interviewing Sam McKnight. He is such an icon in the world of session styling, I was humbled by his agreement to give me some precious time.

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What are your plans for the rest of the year? Is a move into film on the cards, a la Vidal Sassoon’s documentary? Never say never! I’m 60 this week and I plan to take some time to relax with my wife. infringe.com

Cult hair is a result of a research project by ph Panos Damaskinidis who has spent the last ye on creative projects for Anthony.

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Prelude by Eliska Kyselkova

hotographer ear working

Copper headpieces are also in Anthonyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s The Library Space. These are copies of hairstyles Anthony specially commissioned in copper. Photography by Panos Damaskinidis for INFRINGE

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Chandelier is an installation in Anthonyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s The Library Space. It was constructed by Emma De Clerq using old/antique hairdressing and barbering tools. Photography by Panos Damaskinidis for INFRINGE

the final cut Andrew Dunne of Hair By Mane on career highs and lows and losing sleep to colour commitment

Starting Out Being a hairdresser wasn’t something I ever imagined doing. I was about 16 and I had a crush on a girl who worked in a local salon, so I got a part time job in the hope of getting a date with her. Within six months, I had done a basic course with L’Oréal in London and they said I had a natural ability for colour, so I stuck with it.

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Colour Commitment I have a love/hate relationship with the grey blonde. Even though I love the look of it, especially on dark skin, it is a trend that would break your heart as it is such high maintenance. A huge amount of time and money is needed to execute it properly and the upkeep is constant, which very few clients are willing to commit to. I have sleepless nights over this type of thing.

Hair by Mane, Dublin city centre Bouncing Back I was offered an opportunity a long time ago, to become a Creative Director in Tigi Haircare, with my

very good friend, Nick Irwin. But the company was sold and the offer fell through. I feel I would have been very successful in London. This was an extremely low point in my career but I went on to win the International TrendVison a year later, so as they say, everything happens for a reason.

Andrew’s shoot for Sebastian Professional Brow Down I was doing a show in Cork many moons ago, and I accidentally bleached my models eyebrow. I was in front of a huge crowd and I had to cover it up. Luckily a makeup artist came to my rescue. Aiming High I have been lucky enough to have a lot of highlights in my career, (no pun intended). My first international shoot for Sebastian Haircare, the photos arrived l while I was out shopping, they were just about to be released globally and it was an amazing feeling. Winning International TrendVision in 2006 was a complete gamechanger for me. My photograph being chosen for the Global release of Illumina Hair Colour was incredible. Social Life We get a lot of inspiration from social media, Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest. These platforms reflect

what clients are really into and what they really like. It is commercial but it will make you very successful if you can follow and execute what is loved and liked. Firm Focus From my experience, nobody seems to do proper consultations anymore, based on skin tone, eye colour, face shape, bone structure, focal points, hair type and texture. You must take all of this into consideration to create the perfect bespoke colour and cut for that client and that client alone. Teaching Moment I am involved in various hair education pages on social media and posting real hair on real clients every day has brought global recognition to the salon in a way I never imagined. This has created a new motivation for me as I can make waves globally without ever leaving the salon. Final Word This year I am going back into education in Ireland, hosting masterclasses in Mane and I already have dates booked for Inspiration days around the country for next year. There is a huge appetite for education which has been fueled by social media which I feel we are at the forefront of. hairbymane.ie

Winning the International Trend Vision award 2006

I am involved in hair education pages on social media and posting real hair on real clients every day has brought global recognition to the salon in a way I never imagined.

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