IRELAND’S ONLY SALON STYLIST MAGAZINE
€9.50 | ISSUE 3 | Volume 1
Shay Dempsey Trevor Sorbie
Dublin boy done good
Meet an icon of the industry
EXPERIENCE THE POWER OF PAINT l
13 Electric Shades
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Rich Conditioning Base
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Contents 6 hot right now New launches, product reviews and hot tips
32 Global Artistic Director, Shay Dempsey on striving for perfectly imperfect
10 Gold circle The L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2017 winners
36 loyalty club Sue Remes reveals the secret to keeping staff…and customers
12 The Irish abroad Meet the Irish winners at the Wella Professionals TrendVision Awards 2017
41 In the chair Meet Olive Tucker, Creative Educator at House of Colour
13 Picture this Michael Leong shares his Instagram snaps
14 Down under wonder Meet Kevin Murphy at his first Irish masterclass
42 Interior greatness We get a peek inside Paul Hession’s salon makeover 45 lightbulb moment Mark Doherty of SitStil on colour theory and bad braids 46 In the know
15 bridal brilliance EDITOR Tara Corristine
Kieran Walsh Will McCreevey aRT DIREcTOR
Susan Conley cONTRIbuTORs
Sue Remes Ken West
@FringehQ @FringehQ Fringehq.com For advertising queries, please email Tara@fringehq.com or call 021 421 7482
COVER PHOTOGRAPH: SEbASTIAN PROfESSIONAl
New courses for a new term
18 Training day Meet the Irish stylist heading to TIGI bootcamp 21 silver shimmer Get the L’Oréal Colour Trophy overall winning look
48 Final cut Darcy O’Neill on mentors and making it in Munster
23 The london look
@Fringe-Magazine
17 school’s in
Ken West’s tips to recruiting the right way
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PublIshERs
Meet wedding hair expert, Stephanie Brinkerhoff
Read the inspiration behind the L’Oréal Men’s Image Award
24 The fallout Expert advice on hair loss 26 Icon interview We chat to a legend in the industry, Trevor Sorbie
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“Bio A+O.E. is organic and gentle to a scalp that needs nurturing. Many of my clients use this range, from clients who have oily scalps to needing that added volume.” Nicky Marcar, Salon Ten
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G R E AT L E N G T H S H A I R . C O . U K / P R O D U C T S
Editor’s Letter It’s clear that ongoing learning – whether it’s a training programme or the lifelong influence of a mentor – is critical to becoming a successful stylist. On page 10, we see the fruits of this learning when we meet the L’OrĂŠal Colour Trophy 2017 winners, and for those looking to broaden their skill set beyond the salon floor, read about the management training courses available around the country on page 17. Aidan Darcy is heading back to school – he is the only Irish stylist to make it onto the 2017 TIGI Inspirational Youth mentorship programme. He shares his hopes for this life-changing week on page 18. Trevor Sorbie is living proof that a willingness to work can take you to dizzying heights of success. Read our interview with the four-time Hairdresser of the Year and MBE on page 26. ‘Dublin boy done good’ is a modest reflection of a stellar career. Cover star and Global Artistic Director for Sebastian Professional, Shay Dempsey shares his iconic influences and his take on the Irish scene on page 32. Our resident experts, Sue Remes and Ken West, give their tips to creating a training programme that works (page 36) and honing your interview techniques (page 46). If you have a critical learning you would like to share, or words of career advice you live by, we’d love to share it with our readers. Have a fantastic autumn,
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Check us out on social media for news, reviews and competitions. Got a question, suggestion or would like to see a topic covered? Drop me a line at Tara@FringeHQ.com
FRINGE MAGAZINE
IRELAND’S ONLY SALON STYLIST MAGAZINE
Shay Dempsey Trevor Sorbie
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Shining stars The Wella Professionals TrendVision Award 2017 Irish finalists were announced recently at an Exclusive View event hosted by Nicky Byrne. Edward Darley and Gareth Vance of Sassoon Academy presented Underpass while the Wella Professionals Style Council collaborated with Leonardo Rizzo and Laura Daniel from Sanrizz to create a fearless Sebastian-inspired show. The finalists are bound for the Wella Professionals TrendVision Award UK & Ireland Final in September. Meet the finalists at www. wella.co.uk/trendvision
JohN SpaNtoN at Trevor Sorbie for Hair Club Live puts his twist on a classic colour combination in his latest collection, A Study in Black and White. “For a long time, I wanted to shoot a collection with black and white hair, and as we are seeing so much bright colourful hair, the 15-year-old in me felt the need to rebel against that and keep the work really monochromatic. As a colourist, I wanted to work on wefts added into the hair and I only wanted to paint freehand, no taping or masking of the hair, to create the effect so I could keep a realism within the work.” John Spanton.
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Colour: John Spanton @ Trevor Sorbie for Hair Club Live; Hair Styling: Tom Connell @ Trevor Sorbie; Styling: Clare Frith; Make-up: Karen Lockyer; Photography: Chris Bulezuik for Team:Talent & HairClubLive.com
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about a boy Men’s hair has different requirements and Eufora Hero for Men’s new Black Clay Shampoo meets them all. It contains mineral salts to soothe irritation and flaking while rosebay extract reduces sebum production on the scalp alongside the antiinflammatory benefits of licorice root extract. Our tester was left with squeaky clean, flake-free hair that smelled divine. €22.50 passion4hair.com.
takara Belmont’s collaboration with pahi Barcelona includes ten keenly priced styling chairs, shampoo and furniture systems that can be customised to suit your salon, and options include different laminate finishes, contrast piping, stitching and upholstery, and massage functions. Luxury as well as performance is a high priority and all models are hand finished. See takarahairdressing.co.uk for more.
Shop Talk Comb through Cut loose Making swift – and stylish – work of extension removal, the new custom-made hair extension bond removal toolkit from Gold Class is as pretty as it is practical. Designed by Inanch Emir with hair health in mind, the kit includes two types of removal pliers with the horizontal teeth for safer, gentler removal; and a bond cutter for neat and clean customised micro bonds. Protective shields, hair tape measure, gold-coloured section clips and a professional cutting comb are also included. Available from inanch.com.
Multi award-winning men’s stylist John Keegan of The Academy Barber created the Ellie Definition styling comb to solve his design dilemma. “I have used plastic streaker combs over the years but I was sick of them breaking or chipping so I came up with a slim design to fit nicely into the hands, to smooth hair and create definition. It has eight teeth for large area styling and the circle design catches the hair cleanly. Made in Celbridge, Co Kildare, from high grade steel, it’s durable and rust-resistant.” The comb costs €16 and is available from academybarber.ie.
of the best HAND CREAmS
Chemicals, over-washing and the winter chill: hard working hands deserve a hero cream. Age Delay Hand and Cuticle Cream, Alpha-H Age Delay €28 Glycolic acid in this velvety cream improves the appearance of age spots and hyperpigmentation while jojoba and avocado oils, together with Vitamin E work to strengthen, repair and protect skin and cuticles. Intensive yet easily absorbed, this sinks in beautifully with no oily residue. Available in pharmacies nationwide and at alphah.ie Soft Hands Cream, Delarom €16 Soft apricot butter, apricot kernel oil, macadamia nut oil protect, nourish and moisturise and brown algae extract brightens and smoothes. Available in pharmacies nationwide and at delarom.ie
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Uriage Bariéderm Insulating Repairing Hand Cream, Uriage €10 This non-sticky water resistant cream penetrates fast and in clinical studies, reduced dryness by 48 per cent in 14 days, and reduced pain by 44 per cent in a week. It is hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic and paraben-free. Available in Pharmacies nationwide and at uriage.ie
Aveda Global Creative Director ANtoINEttE BEENDERS honed in on natural hair textures to create an array of individual styles for the Tome AW2017 show. Dry Remedy Daily Moisturising Oil was used to add moisture and bring hair back to life. The sleek ponytails and curly styles were then set with Air Control Light Hold Hair Spray featuring the PureFume aroma with certified organic lavender, bergamot and palmarosa.
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Shop Talk PEtER o’GRady of Hair at No 9, Monkstown talks blonde bombshells: “Globally it is estimated that about 46 per cent of women who colour their hair go blonde. It’s no wonder the platinum blonde trend is here to stay this autumn, but it’s brighter with no brassy or yellow tones. Joico’s Blonde Life is a lightening and brightening system just for blondes with a trio of intensely nurturing, sulphate-free formulas to combat the dreaded Bs: brassiness, brittleness and breakage.”
a perfect match Great Lengths
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Ireland partnered with Miss Universe Ireland 2017 as the Hair Sponsor for the recent pageant which took place in August at Dublin’s Mansion House. Miss Cork, Cailín Áine Ní Toibín took home the coveted title this year, and as part of her prize will receive a full set of Great Lengths luxury hair extensions. Wishing her all the best with the next phase of the Miss Universe competition!
Colour me this Schwarzkopf has added four new shades to its Igora ColorWorkx range offering colour chamelons a new level of vibrancy. The four Intense shades – Coral, Mauve, Turquoise and Fuchsia – work with the seven existing Concentrates to offer a bolder palette for more daring clients. Californian hair artist Jeffrey Robert (@jeffreyrobert_) uses ColorWorx Intense directly on dry hair to create strong looks: “I can see the longevity in my client’s hair. For subtler pastel shades, I mix in the White Diluter and apply on slightly dampened hair.”
Night moves If sexy bedroom hair is the dream, then wake up to the new launch from Kevin.Murphy. Flexible Texturising Hairspray is less nap time and more glam time, creating a lived-in look with shine that promises to stay in place all night thanks to three hero ingredients: Camellia leaf extract, a condition enhancer for enhanced elasticity; sunflower seed extract with emollients for improved touchability, and ginger root extract, to strengthen. (€24)
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In a spin Curls are making a glorious comeback and the Moroccanoil Curl collection is a must-have for beautiful swirls. The Cleansing Conditioner (€33.35) is a no-lather formula infused with argan oilthat cleanses, detangles and conditions, and bed-heads will love the Re-Energising Spray (€21.35), a lightweight, mist that reduces frizz while hydrating and redefining curl pattern. moroccanoil.com
KARL BURKE
greatlengthshair.co.uk
BEauty Boost Solidifying its position as a destination salon, Preen has added new beauty range, XIP Professional, to its roster of premium brands. The salon launched the range at a recent Champagne press event, with a showing of the latest plaited, coiled and stitched trends in hair and makeup by XIP’s Hayley Sparkes. The range features an advanced industry-grade super-hero double-ended mascara with growth-boosting formulation. preendublin.ie
To enquire about stocking and using Tangle Angel in your salon, contact our friendly team at National Beauty Distribution on (021) 421 7482. For more information email – info@nationalbeauty.ie www.nationalbeauty.ie
An evening of talent and triumph at the L’ORéaL COLOuR TROphy
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GRaNd FINaL 2017
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night of incredible innovation, exceptional talent and dazzling style: It could only be the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final. Vogue Williams presided over a fabulous evening in O’Reilly Hall, UCD, Dublin, beginning with a Champagne reception followed by a live award shows and topped off with an after-party at Dublin hotspot, House. The judging panel of Siobhan Jones (Headmasters), Nathan Walker (Trevor Sorbie), Alan Edwards (Alan Edwards), Guy Kremer (Guy Kremer) and Chris Williams (Rush) certainly had their work cut out for them. They deemed Peter Mark Dundrum Town Centre the winner of the top prize, with Conor Doyle (colourist) and Grace Murphy (stylist) producing the lauded look on model Sadhbh Maguire. Read their inspiration behind the style on page 21. Next stop for the team is the L’Oréal Professionnel Business Forum in Seville, where last year’s L’Oréal Colour Trophy winners from Dylan Bradshaw, Aoife Bradley and Jenny Dawson, took home gold. The L’Oréal Men’s Image Award was won by Lee Stinton (stylist) and Gerard McLoughlin (colourist) from Preen, Dublin – find out how they created it on page 23 – and the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Star Award went to Lisa Roe of The.Space, Dublin. Irish salons Davey Davey, Black Amber, Darcy’s Hair Salon and The Edge Hair Design, (Colour Collective Team), directed by Ian Brady of Cats, opened the evening with a riot of styles and shades in their sumptuous show, Expression of Colour and we are now craving a scarlet afro. A black-tie gala dinner was followed by Downtown; a body-popping, beat-boxing extravaganza by the award-winning London-based Percy & Reed Artistic Team that had everyone on their feet. As always, it was a night not to be missed. ✂ www.lorealcolourtrophy.ie. #LCTIRE17
L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2017
(This page) Top: Judges Nathan Walker, Siobhan Jones, Chris Williams, Guy Kremer and Alan Edwards
Middle: Chris Williams, Lee Stinton, Gerard McLoughlin, Caolan Maher, Katherine Sweeney and Vogue Williams
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WINNING WAYS (Opposite page) The winning look from Conor Doyle and Grace Murphy of Peter Mark Dundrum Town Centre
Bottom: Terry McGovern, Siobhan Jones, Lisa Roe, the winning look, Vogue Williams
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CREATIVE VISION GOLD Shauna Forman, House of Colour
CREATIVE VISION SILVER Kathy McLean, Aviary Lane
CREATIVE VISION BRONZE Carmel McGuirk, House of Colour
COLOR VISION GOLD Stephen Aiken, Conroy Hair
COLOR VISION SILVER Alex Reid, Alan Keville for Hair
COLOR VISION BRONZE Sharon Sheehan, AC Pure
Irish salons celebrated success at the WELLA PROFESSIONALS TRENDVISION AWARDS
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ore than 700 of the hairdressing industry’s finest gathered at the Roundhouse in Camden for the annual Wella Professionals TrendVision Awards 2017 UK & Ireland Final earlier this month. The evening kicked off with a breathtaking show from TONI&GUY: Prismatic was an eclectic kaleidoscope of colour and couture. Equal, from Sassoon Academy, explored the relationship between hair and art while Sebastian Professional, delivered the final show of the evening, E-Vokative covering four decades of creative inspiration. Stephen Aiken of Conroy Hair did the double, taking gold in the Color Vision category, and winning the People’s Choice Color Vision award. Shauna Forman of House of Colour won gold for Ireland in the Creative Vision category and both will take part in a mentoring programme in the run up to the International Final where they will get the chance to work with industry icons Robert Eaton, Akin Konizi, Bruno Marc and Leonardo Rizzo.
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Insta-Style
Award-winning stylist MIchaEl lEoNG has led show teams for Victoria Beckham, Stella McCartney and Dolce & Gabbana, and counts influencers and icons among his clients. He dishes on his social style.
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nstagram is a great platform for showcasing my work on a day-to-day basis, it’s free plus you can add your day, the story of the work in progress or go live for your followers. I mainly use it to post work that has appeared or been published in magazines or press. It certainly has generated business for me from clients locally and abroad. It’s a domino effect – when someone sees your work, other work follows. I follow designer labels, photographers, stylists, make-up artist and models to keep up with what others are doing and trends.” ✂ @lbhcollects
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Gain insights from KEvIN MuRphy at his first Irish masterclass
T
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his October, Kevin Murphy brings his incredible talent to Dublin for the first time. A master of his profession, his work has graced the covers of all the major global print publications and he has directed hair teams for countless fashion houses. The masterclass, which takes place on October 10 in the Smock Alley Theatre in Dublin, will begin with a drinks reception followed by insights from Peter McDonald, the founder of Kevin.Murphy, about how they built their best-selling brand. Kevin will share his tips and tricks during colour, cutting and styling demonstrations and will be joined by two of the Style.Masters, Juha-Matti and Iggy. A question and answer session with Kevin and Peter will close out this exclusive evening. Brought to you by National Beauty Distribution, tickets to this exciting event are limited. Log on to www. eventbrite.ie to secure yours. About Kevin Murphy Having trained at Vidal Sassoon in London, Kevin returned to Australia to establish himself as one of the country’s most sought-after stylists. As a regular contributor to Australian Vogue he has carved his niche within the industry as the go-to-guy for the ‘beach hair’ look, and in 2007, Kevin was awarded the Australian Masters Award at the AHFAS for his outstanding contributions to the profile of Australian Hairdressing worldwide. ✂
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Meet The Experts Learn the secrets to beautiful bridal styles from STEphaNIE BRINkERhoFF
S
alon X Education are bringing Instagram sensation Stephanie Brinkerhoff to Dublin on Monday, 23 October for a bridal upstyle masterclass, with a second class in London on 24 October. “I like to cover how to create effortless and romantic looking updos that stay in all day,” Stephanie told us, “with tips and techniques for pinning, creating volume, creating different types of texture, and recreating pictures, how to make updos look loose, as well as some braiding and vintage techniques.”
Trendsetter Stephanie shared the key bridal styles coming through for autumn.
Stephanie’s top tips for creating bridal styles 1 > “Make sure you have a solid base. How well the updo stays in is going to depend largely on how secure the interior is. Make it LOOK loose but not actually BE loose.” 2 > “Spend most of your time on the top, front and sides. It’s easy to get lost in the back, when really the most important part is the front. That is what the bride is going to notice and care about the most, so spend the most time there.” 3 > “I hardly ever open my bobby pins. Often times when we open our pins, we end up putting too much hair in them, which makes them less secure. Instead, keep your pins closed, picking up smaller sections, so you can get the pin all the way to the scalp.” Tickets are selling fast, to book yours log on to www.eventbrite.ie or www.facebook.com/ salonXeducation Stephanie Brinkerhoff is professional up-styling educator and one of the most followed and in demand wedding stylists in the world with almost 600K Instagram followers. This is her first show in Ireland. @hairandmakeupbysteph ✂
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“Styles up high: Low chignons and updos are definitely still in, but so are higher sitting updos and buns. The key is to still keep them soft, voluminous and romantic so they look current instead of old fashioned. “Half up: When is this not in style really? Hair that is all down with a few pieces back is especially popular right now. It’s feminine and simple and classic. “Less braids. Braids have been in style for so long, and for the first time in several years I am seeing a switch in the braid trends. Bohemian brides are going for fully braided styles: crown braids, long side braids, braided chignons.
But the classic or glamorous bride is skipping braids all together, instead of incorporating one somewhere in the updo like they have been for the last few years.”
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Training Day From social media to performance appraisal, it’s time to get ahead The Grow My Colour Business full day seminar looks at the ongoing changes in technology and consumer expectations. It takes place in Pzazz Hair, Clarendon St, Dublin 2 on 11 October and costs €290. Email ASKacademy@henkel.com to enquire or send a booking request via the ASK Academy App. The interview process can be tricky, as can be getting the best from your staff. Brush up on your technique with the Performance Management and Appraisal Skills course that gives managers the confidence to deal with challenging behaviour, and learn how to implement an appraisal system with real life case studies and exercises. This one-day course takes place on 14 December at IBEC, 84/86 Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2. It costs €190 for SFA members and €240 for nonmembers. sfa.ie/events
Image Skillnet is a network that was set up
to offer bespoke training for hair and beauty professionals with enterprise-led training and networking opportunities and is funded by member companies and Skillnets, keeping courses local and costs low. Topics will include photography for salons and social media marketing as well as salon management and technique training. Membership of the network is free, call 071 9640438 or email info@ imageskillnet.ie for more information. skillnets.ie ✂
Covering everything from accountancy advice to expert insights from industry veterans, the Irish Hairdressing Federation Hairdressing Business Hub takes place on 9 October in
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The Church, Jervis Street, Dublin 1. An early bird ticket price of €60 is available until 22 September. Call 056 8833808 or 086 6995003 to secure yours. Ready to super charge your social media strategy? Galway Enterprise Office is running an Instagram and Twitter for Business one-day workshop on 24 October that will help you to take the digital reins to build your brand and market your business. Training takes place in the City Council, College Road, Galway and costs €50. See ww.localenterprise. ie/galway for more or call 091 509090 to book your space. 17
maJoR mENToRs Clockwise: Anthony Mascolo and Akos Bodi; Aidan Darcy; Louisa Murphy; Aidan’s winning style
SUMMER FRINGE MAGAZINE
The only Irish stylist on the 2017 TIGI INspIRaTIoNal YouTh TEam talks to Fringe
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Toni & Guy Bootcamp make-up artist Amy Barrington and stylist Jiv D, and culminates with the TIGI Inspirational Youth Show in November at London’s Café de Paris. Candidates for the programme are chosen based on a video entry and last year’s Inspirational oN hER ExpERIENcE Youth Team had two Irish hairdressers, “I learned loads of new and Kim Delahunty from exciting things. Diving more Sugar Cubed, and into the fashion world was Louisa Murphy my favourite part and casting from Saints who models. The TIGI team are went on become brilliant they really help part of the TIGI develop your own creativity. I Session Team and would love to do it all again.” work backstage at London Fashion Week. This year, Aidan Darcy, another Sugar Cubed creative, was the only Irish stylist to make the cut from the hundreds of entries received from across the UK and Ireland. He talks to Fringe about what he hopes to take away from the course. “I was so thrilled to be picked, I’m one of ten people and the only Irish person to be on the team – learning that was a pretty big moment. Kim Delahunty (last year’s Irish candidate) really helped me. Working in Sugar Cubed is such a creative place to work, they are so supportive of everything I do. My entry was a cut and colour inspired by Mulberry’s autumn winter ‘17 collection. They used lots of contrasting colours that clashed, but worked. It got me thinking that colours that aren’t supposed to work together sometimes do. My colour palette was a deep raspberry and then I added panels of apricot and blush. I am probably most excited to work with Anthony Mascolo, as he will be there. I love to see other people work, learning tips and techniques from people I look up to. I am looking forward to improving my presenting skills as there is a big showcase in Café de Paris in November, which will be pretty daunting. I do a lot of shoots as well as 19 salon styling so to gain tips from my peers as well as people I look up to will be a very cool experience.” ✂
Kim Delahunty
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he 2017 TIGI Inspirational Youth mentorship programme gives young hairdressers the opportunity to learn from some of the most respected names in the business. Now in its 13th year, this year’s bootcamp will feature quality teaching time with the likes of TIGI European Creative Director, Akos Bodi, TIGI European Session Director, Maria Kovacs and TIGI Global Academy Technical Director, Warren Boodaghians across topics such as classic and advanced cutting and colouring, session styling, future fashion forecasting, presentation skills and model casting. The week-long programme ends with a photo shoot shoot at Bed Head Studio by TIGI photographer, Alex Barron-Hough, TIGI
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Get The Look CoNoR DoylE (colourist) and GRaCE MuRphy (stylist) of
Peter Mark Dundrum Town Centre took the top prize at the 2017 L’Oréal Colour Trophy. They share the how-to to their winning look. We wanted to create an on-trend look that was editorial but still relevant and achievable for a commercial audience, so using fabulous flush tones, we created a soft peach base enhanced with L’Oréal’s Colourful Hair. When we made it through to the final, we then set out to strip back the colour for this round of the competition, aiming to use placement and a more unusual colour palette choice that would challenge a judging panel’s eye and generate intrigue. We came up with our new theme – Holograms – looking to holographic textiles, metallics and lights to draw inspiration, noting when separated the colours can at times appear jarring and clash, but together harmonise beautifully.” FRINGE MAGAZINE
Get the look “We coloured our model’s hair using Platinum 20 Vol and Smartbond, bringing our natural base up to a very pale yellow. We then toned our blonde with DIA Light 9.01 and 9.11 to give it a clean, icy base, while contouring the hairline with 7.12 to provide a framing shadow. To create a statement shimmer in our look we used L’Oréal’s Colourful Hair, mixing up pale blues, oranges, soft pinks and violet tones. We placed microfine weaves into meche, painting our four colours onto the single packet but rotating colour patterns in each isolated section. No section of the hair contains the exact same placement as any other part of the head, which generates a different reflect throughout the hair depending on what angle the light shines. ✂
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Get The Look LEE StINtoN (stylist) and GERaRd McLouGhLIN
(colourist) from Preen scooped the L’Oréal Men’s Image Award. They talk us through their winning style.
Get the look “The hair was prelightened and toned with a full tube of DIA Light 9.11 and two pea-sized dots of 3 in DIA Light. We wanted to keep control of the tone, so we bleached it up initially before painting in the colour at the root and combing through the ends to achieve that dusty shimmer effect. Using the L’Oréal Professionnel Wild Stylers Beach Waves to give that tousled effect, we then blow-dried the hair forward, adding L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art clay for soft texture and Mythic Oil spray to illuminate the colour and give the hair that all important gloss finish.
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“We took inspiration for the cut from the style codes of the London Rudeboys, keeping it quite street with a classic high zero fade and block fringe, softened slightly to modernise it. With the clothing, we were hugely influenced by the directional designs of Martin Margiela at Maison Margiela and wanted to achieve that ready-towear tailored look with a minimalistic feel, that would complement the dark trending colour scheme of the hair.”
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the
Expert advice on hair loss and scalp concerns
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S
tress, hormonal changes and even tattoos: our life experiences can be clear to see in our hair, and often the first person to notice is the hair professional. We speak to Anita Kirby, Trichologist, Hair and Scalp Specialist (trichologyireland. com), about the most common conditions, and look at the services that can help.
Detox Report Did you know?
two to try
Here are two new treatments that cleanse and detox the scalp to support hair health. Kérastase has launched an in-salon scalp cleansing service, the Spécifique Purification System to combat the damage caused by environmental aggressors like pollution and hard water. A combination of manual and sonic cleansing, the treatment begins with a Masquargil clay mask to deeply cleanse the scalp, unclogging pores and eliminating oil, sweat and product build up. Next a Clarisonic professional brush specifically developed for scalp cleansing gives pore-by-pore detoxification and microcirculation activation. kerastase.co.uk
BC Scalp Genesis from Schwarzkopf is a silicon-free range that works in two ways: protecting the stem cell which is a part of the hair follicle and plays a crucial role in healthy hair growth. It not only delivers the original information about the hair structure and natural hair colour, it is also the starting point for the next generation of hair, after the previous hair falls out; and root protection against oxidative stress. The collection contains four strands: soothing, purifying, antidandruff and root activating, and the Scalp Detox Service is available in salon which includes a BC Scalp Genesis Self-Warming Detox Prep-Treatment with a detoxifying massage, to activate blood microcirculation and to eliminate impurities, product build up and pollution, followed by a prescribed BC Scalp Genesis Shampoo and Scalp Treatment to purify the scalp and secure the future condition of the hair. From this month, the full BC Scalp Genesis Detox Service step-by-step will be available to watch on the Schwarzkopf Professional YouTube channel: www. youtube.com/schwarzkopfpro
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“The majority of cases I treat are due to hair loss and itchy scalp. Hair loss could be due to alopecia, or for the mature client, it’s thinning hair.” Alopecia areata presents as bald patches that can come and go. It can appear at any age but usually affects teenagers and young adults and it is thought to be caused by problems with the immune system. “It is like a coin shape and in the majority of cases, it is usually the hairdresser who notices it first.” Hair loss, or telogen effluvium, can be caused by a drop in According to Anita tattoo the growth boosting ink may use the same hormones, oestrogen and PPD as hair colour so progesterone and a rise it’s important to regularly in hair loss promoting offer skin testing to your hormones, androgen clients. “I ask my clients and testosterone. It if they have had a tattoo can also be caused by since they have had their stress, trauma or even hair coloured as they may a dramatic weightloss. have been using the colour The hair looks and feels for ten years but the tattoo thinner all over the can raise the the levels of scalp; “Stress has a huge the PPDs in the body and bearing on every age, they can have a reaction to both male and female. it. People are experiencing The hair follicle thins reactions so hairdressers and you often see mature should ensure a skin test women where you can see is done.” through their hair.” Finding the cause and cure for an itchy scalp can be difficult and it can often be made worse through incorrect diagnosis. “When it is diagnosed incorrectly, the treatment can cause more damage. There are over 40 different diseases and disorders so it’s important to go to a specialist.” “Another disorder that is becoming very prevalent – it was a rare disorder – is where the hairline is receding on a woman and this is something that hairdressers may not be familiar with. It’s a scarring alopecia where the hair follicle doesn’t come back and this needs to be addressed immediately to prevent the rest of the hair being lost. I’m beginning to see quite a lot of it.” Anita offers some words of wisdom on offering advice and comfort to your customer. “It’s about diplomatically telling the client, you don’t know how sensitive the client could be. This can be a huge trauma in their life and it has to be handled delicately, maybe saying, ‘have you noticed your hair is getting thinner?’ They may not have noticed at all and you don’t want to scare them.”
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Star Stylist
Four-time Hairdresser of the Year and MBE, tREvoR SoRbIE talks to Fringe and she knew she was going to lose her hair. She asked me to get her wig. She put it on, and it looked like a wig. I said, let me try and make it a bit more natural, and when I was finished, she cried tears of joy. There was something extra special about cutting that wig, it really touched me. I decided to continue to do it and mynewhair was born. y sister in law had cancer
of the
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At the time I was doing a lot of television, I was on This Morning, Lorraine, and they found out I was doing this kind of work. I spoke about it and the press picked up on it and just snowballed. I met senior nurses who are lecturers in the North West, they heard what I was doing and we decided to train other hairdressers to do what I was doing. L’Oréal gave me their academy premises free of charge and every month I train 15 hairdressers. I’ve been doing it now for ten years. We are now opening up in Canada, Dubai want to get involved, we want to try to take it global. Having been in this profession for over 50 years, I’ve always known the importance hair is to a woman – if you mess up a woman’s hair you’ll know about it! It hasn’t happened too DoctoR SoRbIE Trevor receiving his Doctorate often but I’ve had the odd occasion. If you from the University of West Scotland take hair away from a woman for whatever reason, you’ve just lost half the woman: their femininity, their confidence, it has a massive effect think a lot of people realise that. on their life. I’ve met four women over these years When a woman comes in, they don’t know what who have refused treatment rather than lose their to expect. They are in a very dark place in their life, hair – my wife’s best friend is one of them. She’s got they are scared and nervous, you can see it in their terminal cancer, but she doesn’t want to lose her body language. When they leave me, it’s completely hair. That’s how devastating it can be and I don’t different, it’s fantastic, we sometimes go out for glass
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of wine afterwards. It’s a lovely experience in a funny sort of way. It’s very satisfying and I’ll continue to do this until I can’t stand up any more. Most of the people who come to my seminar have been touched by cancer: they’ve either had it or know someone who has, and they are very sensitive to this person. It’s a different conversation to ‘where are you going on your holidays.’ I think you have to be a bit worldly to do this, it’s not for every hairdresser. One of my staff asked if they could come to the seminar and at the break, she told me there was no way she could do this, she was very open. FRINGE MAGAZINE
Career highlights
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I’ve had many highs, including winning Hairdresser of the Year four times, getting an MBE from the Queen was a very special day, and next week I am being awarded a doctorate from the University of the West of Scotland. I’m absolutely bricking it. They sent me a tape of last year’s candidate and it was this guy who invented the Doctor Who series and his speech terrified me because he was so intelligent and so amusing. I’m a very nervous person and I get really scared when faced with public speaking and this is freaking me out! The interesting thing is I’m pretty sure none of them want to be hairdressers, they want to be doctors and professionals. But the one message I can give them is that it doesn’t matter what you do in life, to have any success in life, hard work will always be involved, but the most important thing is to have passion for what you do. I came from nothing. We had to share an outside toilet with the people upstairs, it was very modest. But coming from that background to owning a multi-million pound company will be inspiring to young people, that ‘hey,
HARD WORK PAYS OFF (clockwise from top) L’Oréal Colour Trophy 50th Anniversary Show; congratulating Angelo Seminara, British Hairdresser of the Year, in 2007; the Wedge, 1975; winning British Hairdresser Of The Year, 1985
if I can do this, you can certainly climb the ladder to success.’
Finger on the pulse I work in all five of my salons. Yesterday I was in Richmond, later today I’ll be in Covent Garden and the reason I do it is simply this: if a client comes in to any one of my shops and asks, ‘oh does Trevor ever come here?’ the answer is yes, he does and I think that’s important. I don’t sit in the office, I sit in the staffroom with all the kids because I want to know them and they want to know me. Being head of a company, I think it’s important people know who they are working for and I know them. You have to understand the young. The youth of today is not like the youth of yesterday or when I was growing up, it’s a completely different world.
Star Stylist around the salon and spoke to all the assistants, he went up to every client and said, ‘My name is Vidal Sassoon, you are in the best salon in London, enjoy your haircut.’ That alone is something I will never forget. If I could be half the man he was I would be happy with myself. He was humble, polite. Yes, he did great haircuts, and invented the cut and blowdry, he was responsible for modern day hairdressing but that day when he came in and shook everyone’s hand, that just blew me away. I walk around all my salons and I introduce myself to clients, like Vidal did and chat with them. I think that’s a really important part of my business, that’s the part I enjoy most these days, meeting clients. I took a leaf out of Vidal’s book and it works. I like to lead by example: I still sweep the floor in all of my salons, I’ll occasionally shampoo a client’s hair, I’ll make the coffee or help them on with their coat. My philosophy is if I can do it you can do it. Leadership by example is high on my priority list. I want people to grow, I encourage people to grow. Eugene Souleiman, Antoinette Beenders, Angelo Seminara; these are all people who have worked under me and they are very, very successful in their
If you take hair away from a woman for whatever reason, you’ve just lost half the woman: their femininity, their confidence, it has a massive effect on their life.
My hero, unfortunately no longer with us, is Vidal Sassoon. I knew Vidal quite well, I worked alongside him. He was a bit of a showman when he was cutting hair. He came into my salon about four or five years ago. I didn’t know he was coming in, he was just walking in Covent Garden. He introduced himself to the cleaner, to the barista, he walked
Creative times For me the 70s and 80s were the most creative times in hairdressing, it was very experimental in those days. Now, it’s different. I don’t like to see girls with shaved bits of hair, I’m not saying it’s not creative, it’s not my taste. For me, I want a woman to look like a woman and feel like a woman. Yes when you’re 17, 18 you do crazy things, bleach your hair or have it bright red or shave bits off, I get that but I don’t personally like it. I like a woman to look groomed and natural. Inspiration is all around, I don’t look at pop videos or fashion shows, I can look at a material and see how it’s woven and that can spark me. I can look at a plant and think, ‘there’s something there, if I could do that with hair, it could look beautiful.’ It’s having
The industry icon
own right. If somebody has a natural gift and a talent that is extraordinary, I can spot that a mile off. I will encourage that. I’m in the business of growing people not suppressing them.
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Technology and social media are things that I haven’t been able to get my head around, I can just about send an email let alone managing social media, but I have people who do it for me. If I’m not good at something, be it business or financial matters, I get someone in who knows what they are doing, and can enhance what I’m doing. I’ve learned so much from the youth of today, it’s inspiring. I’m 68 – my body’s 68 but my mind’s not, I’m still 25! I don’t want to get old mentally, I can’t do much about the body but I can keep my brain active and up to date. It’s important, especially in our business.
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afterwards and said, ‘Sorbie, how would you like your own product line?’ I said, ‘yeah, alright.’ I thought, I’ll sell products with my name on it and sit at home and wait for a big fat cheque to come in every month. I was so wrong. I worked my arse off for ten years. I signed a contract and I had to be in America for four months of the year, every year for ten years. I was doing about twenty shows a year throughout the US. In the end we got the rights to have the products in the UK and Boots approached us and said we’d like to stock your products in our stores. The most popular product is Curl Cream, it defines curls beautifully and that’s my favourite because it works.
Staying motivated
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STILL SWEEPING! The L’Oréal Paris Show in 2009
My motivation is satisfaction in what I am doing: seeing people grow, seeing the company grow. It’s been a long road but it feels very an awareness of life, it doesn’t come from any one short. There’s still some steam in the old engine yet. source. Any living thing – birds’ feathers, flowers I’m not a very healthy, clean living person. I eat can be very inspirational. It can come from the most a lot of fried foods, I don’t go to the gym, I smoke obscure place, be it a building. and I drink but these are pleasures. My motivation is in what I do, I don’t go to work, I go to do what I love doing. I spoke with a woman yesterday, she Celeb following flew over from Switzerland to have her hair done, and When I heard Grace Jones was coming into she asked me, ‘why are you doing this why aren’t you the salon I was scared because her image is so on a desert island somewhere?’ I said, ‘I still love it!’ sculptured, so aggressive looking, so unusual and And as long as I still love something, why would I amazing at the same time, I thought she was going give that up? to eat me when she came in! That I regard myself as very fortunate lady was the nicest person you in so many ways, coming from would ever meet. She was more nothing to a multi-million pound interested in my career and what I company, how the hell did that was doing in my life. She was lovely. is the pioneering new happen, I still scratch my head. Her videos and the way she dressed charity founded by Trevor I’ve got no qualifications, I can’t was not really a reflection of her real Sorbie MBE that offers spell very well, I don’t read, I had personality. That was manufactured, advice and support to nothing to shout about. If I can do Jean-Paul Goude was the fella that independent salons and it anyone can do it but you’ve got to gave her that image, he created the professionals who provide have the passion. And passion is my look which she is known for. a wig styling service for motivation. I’ve had down times, people suffering from everyone thinks it’s been a smooth The product line cancer and medical ride to the top, it’s not. There are I was at the New York beauty show, hair loss. bumps in the road and you have at the back of the exhibition. The To enquire about to get over them and come back only way you could have found my training, see www. stronger. I’ve been hospitalised stand was if you’d got lost. I had just mynewhair.org through depression, I’ve been created scrunch drying and I was sectioned once. Life hits everybody on the stage demonstrating how in a very similar way, I don’t think anyone escapes to scrunch hair and I had a big crowd around me. the bumps. But I wouldn’t change much if I had my There were four businessmen in suits standing there time again. ✂ for a good couple of hours. They came up to me
mynewhair
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As Robert Lobetta returns to Sebastian Professional as Creative Visionary, we speak to the Irish man leading the brand’s hair direction and education: Global Artistic Director, Shay DEmpSEy.
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obert is an icon, a visionary. His role with Sebastian is exactly that: to bring his spin, his vision and to connect with the new talent in Sebastian. When you have a brand that’s been around for 40 years, it has a lot of credibility and we have to be proud of our history and still evolve, and Robert has been there in the past and he is always thinking of going forward so he’ll be a huge asset to the brand. I’ve been working with him for the last five to six weeks, he’s hit the ground running. We’ve already done a show in LA, we’re doing a shoot in two weeks, we have training – we have a lot on! I’m with Sebastian quite a long time now, I have been the Global Artistic Director for nearly eight years and there have been a lot of exciting moments, whether it’s a photo shoot that really comes together or it’s a show that has received a huge response. Right now I’m super excited that Sebastian are going to be involved in the Alternative Hair show and I’m creating pieces for
Cover Star
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People are willing to be a bit more adventurous with their hair, they can style it better, they can use hot tools better. They read up about hair more than I probably do.
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that. Sebastian is very creative, we like to do avant garde as well as education and cutting collections, we push the boundaries when it comes to styling hair. I cherish a lot of the stuff I do and I love to see people make their own of it. For Eclectic, it was repurposing buckle belts and using wood sticks, putting them through the hair. Then I saw people on social media making that collection their own, that was a very special point in my career for Sebastian – seeing people take simple sticks and making these amazing creations – that was a very proud moment. Eclectic was huge for me. There are so many great things going on in Ireland when it comes to hairdressing, you’ve online education from Paul Davey who is really pushing it forward which is fantastic. The barber scene in Ireland has been huge. Paul Mac from Cork is putting barbering and avant garde together using different colours and makeup that are very strong and really work. Hairdressing has always been super strong in Ireland. I look at social media and everything that is coming out of Ireland right now is really strong,
there are a lot of new people coming on board and that’s the key to hairdressing – fresh talent. I’m not saying that the others aren’t there, they are just a bit older like me and they’re still doing a great job, but there is some fantastic new talent. You take influence from so many people. In my time I would have looked at Trevor Sorbie as someone who is a visionary and not afraid to mix it up and be very artistic in his ways. Not only was he a great hairdresser with a great salon, he also had an amazing talent for creating and that’s a different thing, to be able to create and do fresh and interesting things with hair, changing the fabric of the hair. At the end of the day, a haircut is a haircut, but to be able to look at something and create almost an art piece, that really interested me. Whether he was rik wracking hair so he could create a different shape or using a cocktail of products to create one smooth surface and the other explosive, Trevor and his art team are still creating some amazing work. He’s an absolute gentleman and if you look at his stable and you see what has come out of it, you see that he has given back. A lot of the time in hairdressing, hairdressers are
Cover Star IMAGES: SEbAStIAN ProfESSIoNAl
in a raw state. Maybe at a young age they don’t have the finesse but yet their idea... I get more enjoyment from that, than looking at something that is perfect. Perfectly imperfect comes with years but raw talent I get a lot of inspiration from. I don’t see trends being huge right now because if you look at social media, it’s so fast that everything goes, whether it’s a short cut or a crop or curly hair or beachy hair. It’s constantly changing and the great thing about hairdressing at the moment is that people are willing to be a bit more adventurous with their hair, they can style it better themselves, they can use hot tools better. They read up about hair more than I probably do. They are beauty junkies when it comes to hair now. We have been working with curly hair over the last nine months, we just brought out a collection called Twisted so that’s been refreshing. People have been straightening and smoothing and not embracing their curls and I really feel that with the right products, treatments and masks and a good haircut, people are going to play with their curls a little more: curly one day, straight the next. I think the marketplace is more open to unruly hair, and I don’t mean wild crazy hair, just a little more organic in its feel, a little messy, an undone feel to it. That’s interesting me, I’ve been cutting a lot of hair dry using the wave that’s in the hair naturally, cutting to shape more so than being super technical. For me to be the global artistic director for Sebastian... that’s a pretty big deal, I’m very proud of that. This company has been around for 40 years inclined to keep things for themselves and highlight and to hold that mantle is a huge accolade and with themselves. Trevor is not that type of guy, he has that comes a lot of pressure, and I work really hard. helped people like Eugene and Angelo get to where he To be here creating different collections every six believes they need to be and that’s months is a huge responsibility the beauty of Trevor, he gives it and something I take super back. He stayed strong because he seriously. It’s not easy when helped nourish people to become you’re creating hair that you better, that shows the true colours know the world is going to look Sebastian Professional’s of the man. at. Sometimes it’s challenging, Potion 9 has been out Eugene Souleiman, Sam you get ‘writers block’ and you since the late 70s, it has nine McKnight, Guido: all those need to look outside of the botanicals in it and I need people are still pushing the industry to create different a product that I can prep boundaries to this day. I looks or find inspiration, the hair with but that I can look at everything, good, and you have to talk reapply before I blowdry. bad, sometimes work that yourself through it. But I Texture Maker is another I wouldn’t be crazy about, work well under pressure one – if I need a bit of grit I still see the good in it and I love that I have been in the hair, I can spray it because sometimes you given the chance to travel into the hair to change the can take that work and the world and meet other fabric, I can backcomb do something else with it. hairdressers, and for a kid it and create a bit more That’s why I look at a lot of from Dublin, I don’t think volume. fresh new talent because it’s I’ve done too badly. ✂
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Shay’s heroes
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learned Industry expert SuE REmES on how to stop people from quitting your business.
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I
am often asked how important it is for salons to have a salon training programme. My answer to that question is, “It’s everything.” Some of the top reasons why employees leave a job are because they don’t see opportunities for growth or they are bored and unchallenged by the work. This suggests that training and continuing education are crucial for employee satisfaction and retention.
Expert View
Why training programmes matter to your clients
Research suggests 89 per cent of customers have quit doing business with a company after experiencing poor customer service. A core focus of your training programme should begin with an emphasis on customer care. Salon employees need to understand your salon’s best practices and policies relating to customer service from day one. This allows new hires to understand your expectations around servicing clients. These best practices and policies should be reviewed in the interview process so that every potential new member of your team has a clear understanding of what is expected and how they will be trained on the job to deliver your salon’s service mission. In the days before technology infiltrated business to the intense levels of today, I worked as a Regional Education Manager for Clinique. Clinique was one of the first companies to offer highly personalised consultations in skincare. The Clinique Consultant took customers through an eight-question consultation about their skin using
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A training programme makes a strong statement on how committed you are to your staff and keeps employees engaged and inspired. Training programs build skill, and building skill is one of the top reasons stylists stay in a salon. In short – training programmes result in happy, motivated stylists. Here are some key questions to ask yourself when designing a training programme: > What days will you train? > Will you compensate for training? > Will you require attendance? > How will you offer training that meets all the goals of your staff? > Will you use seasoned stylists to train and mentor new employees? > Will you bring in outside resources to train? > What topics are most important? > What do you focus on first? However you design your programme, work closely with employees to ensure everyone is engaged, excited and challenged to contribute and create. Survey your staff, gather their feedback and then dig in!
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an on-counter device called the Clinique Computer. Once the customer was taken through the consultation, a file card was filled with the customer’s information and notes about her skincare concerns and daily routine. The cards were also used to record product recommendations so the customer could easily fulfill when she returned to the counter to purchase. The counter managers who introduced the card file system to employees on their very first day behind the counter were wildly successful in maintaining customers and building product sales. The managers who did not pay attention to this, or introduced it late in the game, had a much harder time gaining traction with the tool. The lesson here is to decide what your key service initiatives around client service will be and make them a focus of your training programme from day one.
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How training programmes influence recognition and pay structure
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service and it keeps them from quitting you when prices go up.
It’s a culture thing
Sue Remes THE INSIDE STORY
Sue Remes fell in love with the beauty industry while working at a Clinique counter. She swiftly worked her way up to Regional Education Manager for the cosmetic giant before moving to Aveda as National Sales Manager. As Vice President of Luxury for Mars Advertising, she expanded her knowledge of building brand equity, driving volume, enhancing and expanding brand presence. In 1993 she set up Sue Remes Resources where she has earned a reputation as a leading industry consultant, creating valuable education programs, marketing strategies and sales processes that build brands and create customer loyalty. She has worked with organisations such as Kiehl’s Since 1851, Wella, Frédéric Fekkai, Matrix, Lancôme, Sebastian International, Murad, Kevin. Murphy and The Body Shop. sueremes.com
There are lots of ways to recognise a stylist’s performance in the salon, but none is as important as raising skill so that they can raise their service price. When stylists are participating in training that elevates their skill and ability to do their job, they work with a sense of pride, accomplishment and self-confidence. You can use achievement of training landmarks as a way to set and raise prices in the salon, which gives stylists benchmarks for achievement. In addition to stylists feeling skill building is a necessary ingredient to long-term success, your clients feel this is mandatory – especially as you raise your service price! Be sure to inform your clients each and every time you attend training that you have done so. Your clients expect you to be continuing your education and sharpening your skills. Clients look at this as the justification of how you charge for their
I have interviewed a lot of successful salon owners from all over the world – success to me means low staff turnover, high retail sales and repeat client bookings. When I ask these owners how they achieve success, the number one response is training. The training path they have embraced is integral to their culture. It turns stylists into information seekers – always pursuing new skills, actions and ways to remain at the top of their game. Conversely, when I speak to salons who are struggling with turnover, losing customers or low retail sales they reveal that there has not been a concentrated effort on training which leads to a lack of focus and poor cultural standards. Culture makes a difference for employees and a strong training program leads to a strong culture. This plays a big role in keeping employees and clients from quitting you.
Where to start?
There are lots of opinions about what makes a solid training programme – a New Talents programme, elective on-going education, or a mandatory structured education programme. Should you use outside educators, your own staff or a combination of both? All are correct ways of structuring a training programme and it should be determined based on the one that is most suited to the culture of your salon. Consider the three key areas of training: Technical skills; Customer service, and Retail and Product training. Where you focus first should be determined on where you are most lacking. If your salon is lacking in all areas, rotate through the key topics on a regular basis. The training path you choose is not the point. The point is, commit to something. ✂
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hair-obsessed.
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In The Chair OlIvE TUckER, Creative Educator, House of Colour, is looking forward Ireland’s own It’s inspiring that Ireland is so cutting edge. Last year, Irish salons won the world Wella TrendVision award and the world L’Oréal Colour Trophy award. The UK L’Oréal Colour Trophy was won by Sinead Kelly who trained with House of Colour, so how could you not be excited? One of our team, now in Canada, came second in the Canadian L’Oréal Colour Trophy. Add to that Team Ireland’s achievements with the Irish Hair Federation, the IHF STAR team looking for the best young talent all over the country and how could you not be inspired? Getting social Social media is the new word
of mouth and our team are a must follow: @shaunaformanhair, @zaralouisehairhoc and our leader @davhoc are just bubbling with the stuff they are doing. It’s Instagram all the way – we are starting to catch up and it’s going to be scary how much the Irish will take over.
from the long mermaid boring blowdry and get back to real hairdressing I will be delighted. Ban the long wavy blowdry and the Kardashian look, it’s boring. Trending The trends I see coming through are
digital colouring, personalisation, loud and proud sections of colour, haircuts that suit the texture, features and skin tone of the guest. Imperfect perfection is the new cool. Working it Being part of the Wella Style
Council means I am always learning from my peers. On the business side, I am a partner in my salon in Lucan and I want to improve in the business arena, there is always so much to learn and I am very lucky that my partners David and Susan from House of Colour are always pushing, inspiring and guiding me along the way. United front We need to get behind the
In training Competition time with Wella
Mix it up I have been
in the group: our studio project, group expansion, podcasts, new collections, the hair library, our new app, art gallery link and our charity education initiative. I’ll be judging internationally and nationally, heading up the IHF STAR team, overseeing the new collections, working on the Wella Style council, and running my salon, I can’t wait. ✂ houseofcolour.ie
messing about with lots of personalised barcode pieces lately and have started to try digital imprints in colour for different guests. I am loving the short pixie crops and different colour trends on the celebrities at the moment, it’s great we are moving in that direction, it’s exciting again. When we get away
Future plans We have lots going on
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TrendVision is unreal, we start our boot camp very early and do lots of prep. I have been lucky enough to judge the Wella TrendVision UK Final this year, and judge the Irish Hair Championships. I am also a mentor and judge on the Irish STAR team so it’s non-stop all year. In the salon, I love Christmas, you can’t beat the buzz on the floor.
Irish Hair Federation and push for a national apprenticeship. They are at a very advanced stage and it would be amazing for the industry and its future. I also think we need to keep pushing our profile as an industry, we need to come together and show how good we are.
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& mirrors
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modern fresh look is something we all aspire to when it comes to our hair, and interiors are no different. Hession Hairdressing in the bustling north Dublin town of Drumcondra has undergone an extensive renovation resulting in a gleaming new salon with one or two stunning extras. Owner Paul HEssIoN and interior designer KaRI Rocca talk us through the transformation.
“The salon is located at 108 Upper Drumcondra Road, we own the building and have been here for over 25 years,” Paul tells us. “It’s a super location as it’s a busy street with great footfall and a brilliant community.” The salon has been completely renovated and redesigned with a more modern and luxurious feel. “Like a lot of projects this size you do come across problems once into the build. There were minor issues around supporting steel but thankfully all went smoothly in the end and we ended up with a completely new extension to the rear of the building. It now extends to over 2,000sq feet, it has 22 styling stations and a backwash area with six massaging wash units as well as a separate make-up suite on the upper level.”
To maximise the space and create a harmonious scheme, Paul turned to the professionals, bringing interior designer Kari Rocca onto the project. “We wanted to create a tranquil luxurious space for the clients so colour scheme was of huge importance,” she says. “Soft greens, greys and ivory paired with smoked glass achieve a sense of relaxation and ambience in the salon, while polished metals add interest and a modern edge.” Glamorous eras of years gone by informed the materials used. “There are Art Deco elements in the choices of materials used such as Carrera marble and keyhole geometric shapes on the lighting, seating and mirrors,” says Kari. “We have included pockets of decorative areas, lamps
PHOTOGRAPHS: BARRY McCALL
Interiors
parties, hen parties and for groups that want to be pampered.” Lucky clients will be tended to by Jessica Moulds, make-up artist and Creative Director for BUFF Make-up. An instagrammer’s dream, the area has a similar aesthetic to the downstairs salon. According to Kari, “Carrera marble and gold accents form a more feminine feel while smoked glass doors create a secluded private area – it really feels like a bespoke boutique experience.” The eye-catching chairs in the beauty room are particularly stunning and were sourced from Holland. The new-look salon has delighted owner and client alike. “Our goal was to create a chic and relaxing atmosphere with a modern twist and I’m over the moon with the newly designed salon. The reaction from clients has been amazing and the new Beauty Room in particular is going down a treat!” ✂ hessionhairdressing.com
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and floral arrangements to highlight the overall sense of luxury and space.” Function is as important as form and those must-have areas needed for a thriving salon aren’t forgotten. “The retail area was custom-made,” Paul tells us. “It is a hardwood piece that was sprayed to get the required colour. It is a mixture of storage and display.” A secluded back wash room is the epitome of relaxation. Hidden away behind black sliding glass doors, this exclusive area is a real treat for the senses with six reclining massage chairs, ambient music and individual lighting for each basin which can be tailored to the client’s preference. Speaking about her vision for the space, Kari commented: “By introducing a closed washroom using smoked glass and mirrors we succeeded in creating a tranquil pod with a relaxing spa-like feel.” Changes are afoot upstairs too with the addition of a new BUFF Make-up Suite. “We are really excited about our Beauty room and we feel it’s a super addition to our business,” Paul reveals. “From styling to make-up and HD Brows treatments, it is a great option for wedding
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Lightbulb Moment MaRk DoHERty of
SitStil on colour theory and bad braids.
When did you realise this was the career for you? When I was in fifth year in 1988, the master insisted some of us got a suitable haircut. While everyone else went to a barber, I went to a salon in Booterstown and had coffee, cake, a head massage – the works! I was an hour and a half late getting back to school but had my first taste of the luxury side of hairdressing and I never looked at any other career after that. What training course helped you most? The Joico European guest artist program – the educators and the team were both inspiring and tough. It forced me to think outside the box in a controlled format. Very early in my career, Dolores McEvoy, owner of Reds, taught me the theory side of colour. She made the numbering system and the science stuff great fun and I will be always grateful to her for that.
How do you deal with these challenges? My wife Gail is an integral part of the business. She deals with more and more of the financial side of things. We have scheduled meetings with each other once a
What is your top tip to encourage repeat business? Inspire and educate. People read a lot of stuff about hair. They will have certain ‘facts’ that are not true. If we empower them with knowledge, they remember it and if they remember us, they will come back. Is there anything you would do differently in your career? When I first started I didn’t really appreciate the business properly. It was the early 1990s and my focus was not in the right place. Life is too short to have any regrets but being able to focus on my initial training and realise the importance of it earlier in my career would have made me a better hairdresser and a more successfual salon owner. What do you want to learn next? Believe it or not some of the basic skills are lost on me. I spend so much time cutting and colouring I never learned how to braid hair properly and with two young girls growing up at home I need to catch up with them. Otherwise with limited space in SitStil, I would like to expand the usage of the salon to develop more than hair. ✂ sitstil.com
What parts of the business do you struggle with most and why? Time management is always a struggle. Being the most senior member of staff, at quiet times, I feel like I get stuck behind the chair. This takes away from my time for everything else. My home time is very important to me as I have four kids and also I try to play badminton two to three times a week.
What do you look for when hiring? Being a small salon, one individual can easily have a negative or positive impact. Attitude and willingness to adapt to situations are vital. I am very particular about customer service so all new staff have to meet certain standards. Good hair is a given. How we treat people needs to be consistently excellent, and if a staff member cannot do this then they will not fit in.
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What defines an effective consultation? Consistent honest enthusiasm is the key to an effective consultation. It is becoming more and more difficult to get clients in the chair. If we are not enthusiastic about their hair, offering ideas and solutions honestly and consistently, why would they want to stay? I consider myself to be a hair nerd so it is easy to fill people with facts about their hair.
week where we are only allowed talk business and nothing about the kids. We have recently employed someone to look after social media and someone else to do PR. While I keep an eye on how these run, this frees me up a lot.
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The Final Cut DaRcy O’NEILL on mentors, motivation and the move to Munster The London years I started my career in the Morris School of Hairdressing in Piccadilly Circus while living in London in the 1960s. This was a hugely influential era with industry icon Vidal Sassoon starting to make an impact in London and later worldwide. I moved to Dublin to work with the Witches Hut and three years later I was offered the opportunity to manage the newly opened Witches Hut in Cork. Munster bound In 1978 I established my own salon, Darcy’s Design Team in Cork city, employing a team of five. This has grown to a team of twenty-seven and in 2005, a second salon, Darcy’s D2, opened in Ballincollig.
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Seasonal changes Autumn is my favourite time: hair and clothes change and we move away from the fade of summer. Haircuts and colours, just like clothes, take on a different meaning. Autumn would not be autumn without a trip back to London, the best hairdressing city in the world, and Salon International for inspiration.
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like. Our then colourist Hugh Campbell mixed some colour and left it on a shelf for me to apply later when I was finished my clients. I applied the lot, sat in the staff room with a newspaper up to my face until it developed. Rinsed it off, looked in the mirror. Shock horror – my ginger beard was Blue Black! I was like Fidel Castro gone wrong. I later discovered one of my fellow stylists had made up a different colour and switched the bowls. Influential icons Vidal Sassoon and Toni&Guy. Individuals whom I have admired are Irvin Rusk, Tony Rogers and Robert Chambers. The highlights Spending a day at Grosvenor House in London with Roger Thompson, Vidal Sassoon’s first International Creative Director. Beverley Sassoon flew in that morning from New York to have her hair cut by Roger, and I was lucky enough to be shadowing him for that day. It was an experience never to be forgotten. Some will remember Beverley was a stunning looking woman and wore her hair in a short crop: what a haircut and how she carried it. Some of the household names of today, the young guns then, were in awe of Roger at work on Beverley’s hair. Roger Thompson was a gifted hairdresser.
Loving the look The Coupe Savage took us away from the heavy structure of the geometrics. It created softer outlines and hair became more tousled, almost shaggy: scrunching was about to be born. The Fire Fly, created in ScHOOL DayS Graduation from the Morris The lowlights A lack of the late 70s by Trevor School of Hairdressing passion and commitment Sorbie at Vidal Sassoon from some of the younger was a masterful haircut people coming into the industry is an issue. combining short and long hair. This cut can be adapted for use on a high percentage of our daily Finding motivation I still get immense salon clients. satisfaction and pleasure from doing good haircuts and also seeing the excellent work produced by our Red alert Working in the Witches Hut in the 70s team of creative young people. I was wearing a full beard - like the guys of today ✂ darcyshairdressing.ie - with plenty of red coming through which I didn’t
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