IRELAND’S ONLY SALON STYLIST MAGAZINE
ISSUE 5 | Volume 2 €9.50
From dancer to dynamo
Star Turn WORK WISE Is it time to slow down? | SS18 Hair Trends
EXPERIENCE THE POWER OF PAINT l
13 Electric Shades
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Rich Conditioning Base
To find out what POP XG can do for your Salon call the friendly team at National Beauty Distribution on (021) 4217482. For more information email - info@nationalbeauty.ie www.nationalbeauty.ie
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Long Lasting POP of Colour.
INTRODUCING
EXPERIENCE THE POWER OF PAINT
Contents
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Instagram insider Get social with Fashion Week regular, Declan Sheils
19
Double trouble Meet hairstylist and make-up artist, Billy Orr
25
Runway report SS18 Our edit of the standout hair and make-up trends
30
Triple threat Darren Lacken divides his time between the salon, the studio and the set
35
Shop talk New launches and top trends
COVER PHOTOGRAPH: MARK TALBOT
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Lightbulb moment Denise O’Neill of Rustiq Salon on setting goals and staying focused
42
Time out Business coach Jackie Jarvis on taking it slow
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46
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Aisle right Wedding hair for every kind of gown
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French fancy The new Dublin salon with gallic charm
Business class Sign up for Antony Whitaker’s guide to growing your business
Wedding workshop Swot up on bridal style with THE SPACE
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In the chair Anna O’Hanlon of Hession Hairdressing on upskilling and new idols
Job done Ken West’s tips to better recruiting
The final cut Practise makes perfect according to Ciaran Nevin
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Available in the best salons worldwide, KEVIN.MURPHY is distributed in Ireland by National Beauty Distribution. For details or to become a stockist contact +353 21 4217482 or info@nationalbeauty.ie www.loveKMireland.com www.loveKMireland.com
/loveKMireland /loveKMireland
@loveKMireland @loveKMireland
@loveKMireland @loveKNireland
Editor’s Letter Have a spring fling with the new issue of Fringe Magazine
IRELAND’S ONLY SALON STYLIST MAGAZINE
ISSUE 5 i C\YbZR â‚Ź& "
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Star Turn WORK WISE Is it time to slow down? | SS18 Hair Trends
EDITOR Tara Corristine
Kieran Walsh Will McCreevey ART DIRECTOR
Susan Conley CONTRIBuTORS
Genevieve Wilson Jackie Jarvis Ken West
Enjoy the new season,
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PuBLISHERS
The chaos of Christmas may be long gone, but there’s little breathing space salons spring into action, ready for Communion and Confirmation bookings, clients looking for race day inspiration, of course, wedding season! If you are looking to brush up your skills, read about our Bridal Masterclass with THE SPACE on page xx taking place in Dublin on March 5. Style it right with our guide to finding the right hairstyle for the special dress on page xx. On page 19, read how Billy Orr became one of Ireland’s most in-demand hair and make-up artists, before swotting up on the season’s key beauty looks with our runway report on page 25. From the dance floor to the salon floor, cover star Darren Lacken is a man of many talents. Read his thoughts on competitions and cover shoots on page 30. Zero One Salon opened the doors to its Dublin location late last year. Peek inside this French-styled delight on page 36. Talking to the many stylists, salon directors and business owners over the past year, we know how busy life can be. Business coach Jackie Jarvis suggests it’s time to take it slow. Read her easy-to-implement suggestions on page 42. A new year can give people itchy feet so if you find yourself short-staffed, read Ken West’s guide to smart recruiting on page 46. Fringe Magazine turns one this month and we’ve thoroughly enjoyed hearing from stylists, salon managers and business owners throughout the year. If there are any topics you would like us to cover, or have any suggestions, tips or questions, please get in touch at Tara@FringeHQ.com.
@fringemagazine.ie @fringemag_ie @fringemagazine.ie
www.fringemagazine.ie
For advertising queries, please email Tara@fringehq.com or call 021 421 7482
ps
Check us out on social media for news, reviews and competitions. Got a question, suggestion or would like to see a topic covered? Drop me a line at Tara@FringeHQ.com
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of the best tREatS FoR FEEt
Hard-working legs need some TLC, so look after your pins with our pick of the best relievers. Xerial 50 Extrême crème Pieds from SVR is a foot care that promises to improve corns and calluses in seven days. Non-greasy and non-sticky, it also works on hands and elbows suffering from thickened skin. €13, grahamanthony.ie Centella asiatica extracts in Payot’s Fresh ultra
Celestial being
Performance leg and foot cream relaxes and refreshes heavy legs, swollen ankles and tired feet. An absolute treat. €35, payot.ie Sure to come in handy as the weather warms up, spritz uriage
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thermal water Spray onto throbbing feet for instant relief. With the highest concentration of minerals and trace elements, it can be used on the face too, to soothe and strengthen the skin. €9.50,
uriage.ie
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NEw REcRuIt Rossano Ferretti joins Coty’s
impressive line-up of global ambassadors where he will be casting his creative eye over haute beauty, salon professional innovation and education. Rossano comes from a strong lineage of hairdressers, both his grandfather and mother cut hair from their own salons in the Reggio Emilia region of Italy. “I have been ready to start a new chapter in my career. I see Coty as a true challenger, a company with a fresh approach to beauty and with a purpose which inspires me: celebrating and liberating the diversity of beauty. This is exactly what I have been doing for the past 30 years.”
Multi-toned hair continues to hit the heights and olivia Nevill’s British Hairdressing awards Newcomer of the Year collection has an interstellar
feel to it. “I was inspired by space and the atmosphere, moving more towards elusive and effective colours as opposed to bolds and brights. The colour looks I have created within my Luna collection aren’t too much to take in, remaining subtle whilst interesting to look at.” GEt tHE looK >> First of all, I pre-lightened the hair ready to be coloured, focussing on the ends a little more than the rest of the hair in order to get the best base for a vibrant result. >> I used Schwarzkopf Professional’s IGORA ColorWorx in Green, using a balayage technique. As the model’s base is naturally dark, it came out as a gorgeous emerald colour. >> Once I’d washed out the green, I used Schwarzkopf Professional’s IGORA ColorWorx in Violet through the ends where we had focussed the pre-lightener, again using the balayage technique, giving us beautifully blended deep purple tones. >> In a few areas, I added a little of the IGORA ColorWorx White shade, which gives more of a pale and pastel shade, giving the look more of a two-toned effect. Luna By Olivia Nevill; Photography: Ashley Gamble Photography; MUA & Styling: Ashley Gamble Beauty & Styling Team
Shop Talk Gold staNdaRd Pretty and oh-sopractical, make way for the Hot tools Professional 24k Gold CurlBar set with four interchangeable barrels in varying sizes from 19mm to 38mm, each featuring the brand’s innovative Pulse Technology along with cutting edge digital temperature control and Curl Timer. The Vibrating Curl Timer allows for every strand of hair to receive the exact same heating time for a consistent curl and perfect form no matter the hair type. The handle also recognises when the barrel is changed and instant heat recovery technology begins re-heating the new barrel as soon as it is connected to allow for continuous, fast and creative styling. RRP €300. nationalbeauty.ie
GREY aWaY Retouch.Me is a new growth touchup spray from Kevin. Murphy that dries quickly to a satin finish, allowing your clients to discreetly blend greys between visits. €25.
nationalbeauty.ie
Hat tRICK Why mess with success? Great Lengths has again partnered with four-time winner of the British Hairdresser of the Year Award, Angelo Seminara to create the brand’s new campaign, Mirage. Seminara took inspiration from the colours of the Namibian desert for their third collaboration.“This gives me the opportunity to work with, what is in my opinion, the best quality hair extensions on the market. Great Lengths Extensions provide endless opportunities in the creative process, and also in the real world.” greatlengthshair.co.uk
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WoRK It Gym hair will soon be a thing of the past thanks to Invisibobble’s Multiband, a new twoin-one hair band and bobble. Available in True Black and Red-y to Rumble, it’s in partnership with healthy lifestyle expert Roz Purcell who knows a thing or two about staying stylish at the gym. €7. nationalbeauty.ie
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STR I V E TO BE U N R I VA L L E D TAKE YOUR PLACE AMONGST THE CRÈME DE LA CRÈME. BECOME A GREAT LENGTHS EXTENSIONIST TO UNLOCK LIMITLESS LOOKS AND CREATIVE POSSIBILITIES. Our extensions are 100% human hair. We have a global reputation for excellence and an inspiring team of expert educators. Great Lengths is in a class of its own. Don’t you want to be a part of it? Find out how you can become a Great Lengths certified stylist.
GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK/BECOME-A-CERTIFIED-STYLIST
SMARTER • Fast professionalslon use • Reduce color usages by up to 30% • Way to mix color, blech, tint and plexes
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GREENER& HEALTHIER • Reduce color usages by up to 30% • Reduceinhaling harmful chemicals & odour • reduce up to 20%of chemical waste • No back, shoulders or elbows strain To enquire about stocking Ping in your salon, contact our friendly team at National Beauty Distribution on (021) 201 9681. For more information email info@nationalbeauty.ie www.nationalbeauty.ie
Bridal Masterclass Want to create Pinterest worthy bridal hair?
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Salon X presents a contemporary one-day bridal masterclass in collaboration with THE SPACE on Monday, March 5 in The Gibson Hotel, Dublin 1. THE SPACE co-founder Nadine Quinn, pictured left, explains, “Stylists will discover an alternative approach to bridal styling, develop techniques and fine tune their ability to meet the desires of the modern bride. We will introduce you to a diversity of effortless textures, beautifully modern silhouettes and clever use of this season’s on-trend detailing. You will leave our course with a clear understanding of how to tailormake looks that are perfectly suited to your bride’s face shape, hair type and personality.” The morning Look and Learn demonstration will cover a variety of looks and includes a Q&A session. During the Hands On afternoon session THE SPACE team will work closely with each student, helping them with their questions and challenges. There are a very limited number of tickets for a Hands On session with THE SPACE in the afternoon which also grants access to the Look and Learn class in the morning. ✂ The classes will take place on Monday, March 5, 10am - 16.30pm in The Gibson Hotel, Point Square, Dublin 1 Information and tickets are available on www.eventbrite.ie, look for Salon X events.
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A beAutiful dAy Wedding season will soon be under way: let GENEvIEvE WILSoN guide you to finding the right hairstyle for the perfect gown.
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oon-to-be brides often struggle when deciding which hairstyle to choose for their big day. They need a look that will complement their dress and work in sync with their overall aesthetic. A simple gown allows the stylist to go a bit more glamorous but an elaborate dress usually needs something more pared-back and refined. The decision, of course, is made by the bride but providing the insider knowledge about which styles suit certain dresses, will help get stylist and client to decision-making time much quicker.
Lace and low-cut A structured wave has become one of the most iconic bridal styles, even more so since the Duchess of Cambridge was styled by James Pryce of Richard Ward salon before walking down the aisle in 2011. The look works well with lace gowns, low-cut V necklines and classic veils. The hair should be pinned slightly back or swept sideways, this will ensure that the style won’t distract from the intricate lace details on the arms and shoulders. 12
Strapless Strapless dresses are one of the easiest to work with, giving the green light for
nearly any style. In saying that, an exposed décolletage is accentuated by an up-style so we would recommend an unstructured chignon or a sleek high bun. This is dependent on whether the dress has a relaxed silhouette or one that is more fishnet or tulle. Soft and relaxed waves also work really well with a strapless ensemble. Sweetheart The sweetheart neckline again looks better when it’s left bare but for a bride that feels more comfortable when her hair is down, a one sided braid is a happy medium. Another look that works well is the half-up style, as seen on Amy
Wedding Style Huberman, styled by Joanne Kelly on the day of her wedding. The old-school Hollywood pin-up look is again growing in popularity. It’s a style that gives an instant injection of allure to any bride on her big day. High neck High neck gowns work better when the hair is pulled back, as any loose waves or curls will take away from the detailing and embellishment usually found on this style of dress. A regal topknot will elongate the neck but it’s a very brave move for a not-so confident bride. Hair accessories should be kept subtle so as not
Bridal hair tips Inspiration Ask your client to bring some direction, but not too much. An image overload will lead to confusion on both sides and it’s important you’re on the same page from the get-go.
Style recycle Suggest re-trying a look that you know has worked well in the past. It’s never a good idea to try something overly unfamiliar or over-the-top. Show your own images of other brides you have styled and make suggestions.
to take away from a dramatic and detailed neckline - an understated tiara and light veil will complete the look. Boho It goes without saying that boho dresses need to be paired with a relaxed, undone style – either a messy pony, beachy waves or a loose up-do with movement and texture. Anything overly structured or too defined will look mismatched and out of place. Rope braids and knots are in high demand amongst boho brides and these are great as they will remain secure for the duration of the day. If wanting
All covered-up For a bride who airs on the more conservative side, choosing for a high neck dress with a full sleeve, there’s only one style that works – pulled back off the face. A chignon is elegant, chic and timeless. ✂
The modern bride Many current bridal collections are aimed towards the ‘modern bride’, someone who is on-trend, chic and sophisticated. Sometimes a bride like this is best fitted to a low-maintenance and manageable style. Gently tousled waves or simple and romantic swept-off-the-face updo’s are beginning to make their way onto the most most requested bridal hair lists.
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to accessorise, a bride should opt for a ‘barely there’ veil or a discreet flower crown.
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To enquire about stocking and using Tangle Angel in your salon, contact our friendly team at National Beauty Distribution on (021) 421 7482. For more information email – info@nationalbeauty.ie www.nationalbeauty.ie
Business Masterclass Hands up who wants to grow their business and increase their profits?
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Salon X is delighted to bring Antony Whitaker to Dublin for a one-off masterclass on April 16 in The Dean Hotel, Dublin 2. An award winning hairdresser, multi-salon owner, and author of the best-selling GROW book series, Antony Whitaker is internationally respected as one of the industry’s leading educators, motivators and business minds. “My goal is to make salon businesses more successful... and make more money in the process. The key to growing a business is to grow the people who work in it, if they don’t grow, the business never will.” Antony has delivered motivational seminars on management, marketing, money and team-building to over 225,000 hairdressers in more than forty countries. The full day seminar (9:30am 5pm) is essential for business owners and managers to help them define clear objectives, form strategies and improve their leadership skills.
The key points covered during the day are: >> Setting clear objectives and developing workable strategies >> Getting clarity on you and your business >> Roles, goals and responsibilities, your ‘Organisation chart’ >> Developing you as a leader and manager >> Defining your salon culture >> Defining your business vision >> Developing the Business Management systems you need to succeed >> Managing your facilities and work space >> Managing your time effectively “I have witnessed firsthand how Antony’s simple, back-to-basics approach has helped educate our industry on the business skills needed to run a
successful, profitable business. With Antony’s tutoring, people seem to get it!” —Winn Claybaugh, Dean and Co-founder of Paul Mitchell Schools ✂ The one-day seminar will take place on Monday, April 16, 9.30am - 5pm in The Dean Hotel, Harcourt Street, Dublin 2 Information and tickets are available on www.eventbrite.ie, look for Salon X events
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Chanel Couture SS18 show at the Grand Palais in Paris
Insta-Style
With Kaia Gerber at the Chanel Mademoiselle launch in Hong Kong
East London vibe
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ocial media has become increasingly important in fashion and beauty. Followers not only want to see imagery that we create but also want to have access to behind the scenes and go backstage at shows and events. I use Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr and mostly Instagram. A lot of collaborations have come about through stylists, photographers and make-up artists contacting me on Instagram. On Instagram, I follow Business of Fashion, Offblack magazine, i-D, show studio, Diet Prada. I follow a lot of art and architecture accounts too. ✂ #hairbydeclan
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A regular at New York, London, Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks, working as first assistant to Sam McKnight for three years, DEclaN shEIls’ clients include Chanel, Burberry, Maison Michel, and his photographic work has been featured in Nylon, Vogue, i-D, Porter and Schön! He tells us why social media matters.
Editorial featuring east London drag collective Sink The Pink
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To enquire about stocking Ecoheads in your salon, contact our friendly team at National Beauty Distribution on (021) 201 9681. For more information email info@nationalbeauty.ie www.nationalbeauty.ie
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In Person
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Internationally renowned hair and make-up artist BIlly ORR talks about his on-set life
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Working on photoshoots and at hair shows I became interested in make-up. There were lots of hairdressers and there were lots of makeup artists but there were very few people who could do both. Some people used to say that one is painting and the other is sculpting but I was determined to prove them wrong. I studied hair and make-up for television and began assisting a make-up artist in Glasgow at shoots and shows. Most times, I’d just paint models’ nails but I studied everything she did. A friend worked in props in TV and he got me work experience on a TV set.
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In Person
O
ver the last two decades, Billy Orr has balanced a busy column in Kazumi Hair Salon with his work as a freelance hair and make-up artist. He has worked with Henry Cavill, John Legend, Olivia Palermo and Lady Gaga, has collaborated with international cosmetic houses such as Estée Lauder, and has shot in Portugal, Spain, Morocco and Dubai for the likes of L’Officiel, Vanity Fair, Condé Nast Traveller and Grazia. His TV work includes The X Factor Australia and The Eurovision song contest, Russia and he is currently part of the Ireland’s Got Talent team. Meet the man himself.
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I moved to Ireland and while working part-time in salon, I got a freelance contract at RTÉ. Record label executives would bring their celebrity acts to the TV studio to perform and many of them want their ‘glam’ done at the hotel beforehand. So at weekends I was going to hotels doing celebrities hair and make-up and travelling to the TV station with them. That was the moment I knew I was doing something right because I was getting repeat bookings and building relationships with people in the industry. The Saturdays were among my first clients and I got to meet Una Foden. She calls me her go-to in Ireland and we’ve built up a brilliant relationship. She’s amazing.
I contacted a local modelling agency and offered to style hair for the models’ test shots for free. You get to network and meet people in the industry. One of my pals was a clothes stylist so I used to do hair for magazine shoots for credit. Meeting photographers, stylists and models is the best way to build up your book.
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I signed with an Irish modelling agency and started working on editorials and advertising shoots. I worked with L’Oréal Paris as a spokesperson for their seasonal hair and make-up launches, that was a whole new arena for me. I realised that we only have a small number of magazines in Ireland so I reached out to Wilhelmina Models in Dubai. Dubai has all the glossy magazines that we have: Harpers, Cosmo, Elle – and I wanted to challenge myself. I met with editors and stylists and began getting booked for jobs and contributing quotes to beauty pages. I worked with Marie-Claire and Harpers and I shot for Dior make-up and jewellery, Bulgari jewellery, Dsquared2. Now I travel back and forward and stay for a month and I balance that with my salon clients and working on TV programmes.
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The haircut is back – Kate Hudson is on the red carpet with a Mia Farrow crop, Cara Delevingne is on the cover of magazines with a shorter style. That is inspiring our clients to go for change. They want to embrace the natural movement in the hair, away from the poker straight look, encouraging the effortless easy movement in the hair. Embrace that undone finish, mix the grunge with the luxe.
At the moment I am working on Ireland’s Got Talent and its sister show Ireland’s Got More Talent. I got a call from a production company looking to put a crew together. It’s a massive project – during the audition process I work with presenters and celebrities, and going into the final, I will work with the team on the contestants. It’s an amazing opportunity. It’s really exciting, the audition process was great fun, you’re on set – I love this environment. ✂
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Available in the best salons worldwide, KEVIN.MURPHY is distributed in Ireland by National Beauty Distribution. For details or to become a stockist contact +353 21 4217482 or info@nationalbeauty.ie
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GHD/VERSACE SS18
SS18 Trends
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From perm reboots to easy individualism, it’s the key hair and makeup looks from the SS18 shows.
tHE
rEport
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Eyes on it 26
Donatella Versace’s vision for her SS18 Versus show at London Fashion Week was an homage to rock chic. “This look was inspired by the great and glorious Amy Winehouse’ iconic punky, graphic, overdrawn Feline Flick, as well as Kate Moss’ signature eye,” explains Charlotte Tilbury who created the face.
ChArLoTTE TILbury MAKEup/VErSACE SS18
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johN FrIEDA/MoLLy GoDDArD SS18
At Molly Goddard, John Frieda’s Luke Hersheson sought to bring back an old favourite. “It’s big, curly hair, but the addition of the black hairband – pulling the curls back – creates a sports luxe edge. We haven’t seen a retake on the perm in so long — there’s something both refreshing and nostalgic about it.”
SS18 Trends
Colour disruptor
Punchy primaries made a statement on the spring catwalks. At Marco De Vincenzo’s Milan show the vibe was, “Seaside girls with ketchup-stained lips.” Nicopanda’s not-sonice pink was “Quick and spontaneous.”
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MAc/MArco DE VINcENZo SS18
AVEDA/PAulA kNorr SS18
Aveda Global Director, Hair Styling, Bea Watson, paid homage to modern social diversity with a look that celebrates individuality for the Paula Knorr SS18 show. “Paula was inspired by the notion of movement, and so we created a uniformed look without mechanically enhancing the natural texture.”
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NARS/AdEAM SS18
hIGh shINE Polished with a pearl-like lustre is the directive for skin this season. At the Adeam SS18 show Sada Ito, NARS Global Makeup Artist kept the look minimal. “She’s a fresh and gorgeous girl with full bushy brows, tons of lashes, shimmery peachy pink eyes, flushed cheeks and a nude lip.”
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Sam McKnight paid tribute to 90s minimalism with a sophisticated silhouette at Max Mara SS18.
SAM MckNIGht/MAx MARA SS18
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Get The Look
1> Start by creating a comfortable and natural looking side parting. 2> Lightly spritz Cool Girl by Hair by Sam McKnight throughout the lengths of the hair to create a barely there, effortless texture. 3> Gently pull the hair back into a low ponytail at the nape of the neck. 4> Secure the hair with a single loop of black elastic. 5> Leave the hair’s raw, lived-in texture but finish with a spritz if the Modern Hairspray by Hair by Sam McKnight for added shine and hold.
Eugene Souleiman, Wella Professionals Global Creative Director and ghd Ambassador, opted for a raw, dishevelled look for the SS18 Versus collection. “I wanted to create sexy hair for a night out, so we put lots of texture into each hair look. The aim was to enhance its natural texture but also to break it up at the same time. To do this, we used tongs or straighteners, depending on the model’s natural hair feel and length, taking tiny random sections to add some definition and shape, while giving the appearance that nothing had been done to the hair at all.”
INTERGAlACTIC INSPo
Nails took a stellar turn at Jeremy Scott, with vibrant hues enhanced by a dusting of silver glitter.
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cNd/jErEMy scott ss18
Ghd/vErsAcE ss18
SS18 Trends
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Did you know one of Ireland’s top hair talents also happens to be a ballroom dancing champion? Meet Darren Lacken.
“ballroom dancing was my thing, that’s what I was going to do forever.” I have to admit, it’s not what I expected to hear when I sat down with Darren Lacken, one of Ireland’s top stylists and winner of the 2016 Wella Platinum World Colour Vision Award, in the cosy snug of his salon, Crow St Collective in Dublin’s Temple Bar. “I was teaching hip hop and ballroom dancing classes when I started hairdressing with a friend of mine. I moved to House of Colour and I never worked anywhere else! I did courses in Sassoon and travelled to Fashion Weeks.” Now, a day at the office could see him on location for world famous fashion brands like Topshop Unique, Diesel Black Gold, Henry Holland and Sass & Bide, shooting covers for the top glossies among them i-D magazine, Neon, Love, Image, Irish Country Magazine and U Magazine, or catching up with clients on the salon floor. “It’s nice to get a mix of all three. It’s like anything, If you do something every day, you get pissed off doing it. I still love London Fashion Week, I love Somerset house – it’s mad, it’s mental, the people who go to the shows – they can’t get in, they just go to be photographed. I look at them and think, ‘did you get dressed in the dark! what were you thinking?’ But you have all these people trying to photograph them, just in case they are ‘someone,’ and they are posing away! I love it, walking the streets, it’s like Halloween.
moves
Cover Star
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“It’s nice working with the models like Arizona Muse or Alexa Chung – they’re really nice. I was a bit star struck by Isabella Blow. I worked with her on the Philip Treacy show at IMMA. She had this energy, and was so lovely. We were running on time and she wasn’t having any of it. She ordered champagne up to the room and Philip was coming in and out with hats. She was this really cool, tiny little woman. “I love doing editorials and getting to do it abroad. I’m going to Morocco at the end of the month for Arnotts and I am just back from Barcelona where I was shooting an editorial for Kildare Village. It’s such a good crew and I’m so lucky that I get to work with a lot of the same people all of the time. It builds relationships, everyone bounces off each other and if something’s not working, we can say it without anyone crying in the corner. I think I am the least precious person: if you don’t like it, grand. Let’s do something you do like. At the end of the day, it’s the client’s vision and you’re trying to translate that into something that looks amazing and ticks all of their boxes. “I love the fact that I can dip in and out, but then I come back to my clients – I know what’s going on in
Cover Star
and assist – I’ll blow dry for anyone – and I watch everything they’re doing. You don’t have to be a trainee to assist. I think people think you get to a certain point and wouldn’t assist, but why wouldn’t I? It’s something my Ma would say, but if you think you’re finished learning it’s time to give up.” The competition circuit, however, is something he is happy to leave to his staff. “I will dip in and out, but I want the girls to experience what I’ve experienced. Because I’ve done so many, and don’t get me wrong, you do get disheartened, but I wouldn’t go nuts if I didn’t win. And you see that sometimes, and you think, go home and scream into a pillow. “Competitions are nice to do and even better to win, but once you stand back and are delighted with what you have done, at the end of the day, it’s people’s opinions.” ✂ www.cscollective.ie
their lives and I motor-mouth talk about everything I’ve been up to. And I get to do what I really love, which is cut and colour hair.” The day-to-day running of the salon is in the capable hands of Darren’s boyfriend and business partner, Mark. “I was offered a job in Dubai and I was considering it when friends suggested Mark and I open a salon together. The idea of living and working together was a bit scary, it was a gamble. We decided we would go for it and it happened very organically, I never got that ball of nerves in my stomach. I would be grey down to my ankles if I had to think about hiring and rotas. He’s so level headed. I wouldn’t have a clue, so I’d panic.” While he is clearly at the top of his game, every day is a school day, according to Darren. “I do a lot of training with Wella: when they have guest artists over, I’m friends with a lot of them so I go along
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You don’t have to be a trainee to assist. I think people think you get to a certain point and wouldn’t assist, but why wouldn’t I?
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In The Chair ANNA O’HANlON, of Hession Hairdressing, sings the praises of social media.
Upskilling I think the Irish hair industry is of
an excellent standard and I am delighted to be surrounded by so many creative and talented hairdressers. I am currently on the L’Oréal Professional ID Artist team and I travel to the UK to learn new hair trends and bring them back to the salon and demonstrate them to our peers. The ID Artist programme is a great platform to help hairdressers excel and I get a great buzz being part of it. Feeling social I feel social media is hugely
important. Most hairdressers are using social media to share their colour techniques, tips and tricks and session styling for other hairdressers, which I find brilliant. It can also help to boost your client column in the salon. My favourite platform is Instagram – it’s a fast and effective way to view other artists’ work, to get your work out to a greater number of people and gain followers who have the same interests as you.
and I also enjoy technical colouring like ombre, balayage and free-hand highlights. Clients are now bringing in pictures of the looks they want from social media and often want me to recreate these looks. It wouldn’t be uncommon for them to bring in pictures of styles that I may have done previously, and I love this. Celebrity style This year is all about dishevelled
and undone hair. Think Khloe Kardashian, Miley Cyrus and Jennifer Lawrence. Low maintenance, long relaxed fringes with middle partings are making a comeback, too. Unfinished, with lots of texture is the look for this season. New idols Celebrities, fashion designers, hair stylists and bloggers are the key influencers. Through social media we are getting access to trends across the world almost instantly which we are now tailoring to our clients on the salon floor. School day In this business, I don’t think
you ever stop learning. Trends are always changing and you must stay on top of your game. This year I am travelling to Barcelona with the ID Artist Team and I am headed to the Sassoon Academy in the summer.
favourite period of the year is Christmas. There’s a great buzz in the salon and it’s super busy. The Christmas music and decorations always help and both clients and staff are always in good form. Because it’s also party season I get the opportunity to be more creative
Getting technical I love creative braiding
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Jolly holiday My
with so many different styles by transforming some looks from the catwalks and celebrity inspired.
Up next My future plans
definitely include travel. I would love to do session work with top photographers and magazines in other parts of the world. ✂ hessionhairdressing. com
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Interiors
SaRa REyNoldS of Zero One
T
he premises on Wicklow street appealed to me as we were looking for a prime location for our flagship salon. We had looked at a few premises around the area but the moment we saw it, we felt it was right. It is central with a high level of footfall and surrounded by some of the biggest brands. We loved the character and traditional feel of the building and
Salon shares the inspiration behind her new Dublin 2 location.
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Zero
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Interiors
furniture and the vintage wallpaper has country scenes printed throughout. Pale blue, powder pink, barley and gold are the colours throughout the salon and the scheme was chosen to create a romantic feminine feel. Antique waiting chairs were reupholstered in powder pink velvet and trimmed in gold, with floor-to-ceiling curtains handmade in the same fabric. The reception desk and retail unit is
and create a luxury homely feel. Our aim was to create a relaxed calm space yet keeping it elegant and glamorous. Inspired by the French boutique style, unique touches include our twinkling star ceiling in the private dark wash room and handmade silk lampshades on our porcelain ceiling. We incorporated brass chandeliers, wall paneling, ornate cornicing and Louis XVI-style
painted in pale blue, the same colour as the exterior of the salon. The brass and porcelain light above the reception desk is hand painted with a floral design. The grand room on the first floor is painted blue and has an over-sized chandelier and traditional fireplace with a hand-painted floral motif with a gold quilted frame. ✂ zeroonesalon.ie
Unique touches include our twinkling star ceiling in the private dark wash room and handmade silk lampshades on our porcelain ceiling
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we knew it was the perfect fit for our brand. It is also a stone’s throw away from Grafton Street which is a huge selling point. Our aim was to bring the building back to its original period feel. The salon is set out over three floors so there was an extensive amount of work to be done – the whole place was gutted and rebuilt from scratch. We wanted to stay away from the traditional functional style of hair salons
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Lightbulb Moment dENISE o’NEIll of Rustiq Salon talks consistency and commitment. Starting young I knew I wanted to be a
hairdresser when I was very young. In Transition year I did two weeks in two different salons and both offered me work. I’ll never forget the buzz and I adored the smell of perm lotion. I doubt I will ever fall out of love with my career. Finding balance I struggled with the business
a lot more a few years ago when I was a full-time stylist and running the salons. Now I’m in the office or teaching my staff and only on the floor
industry must be powerful enough to make me want them on my team. Making plans I have one-to-ones every six
weeks. A January one-to-one does not involve targets, colour percentage or average bill, as every other month does. I ask for one thing: the goal they would like to smash in 2018. We chat about all how to make this happen and may even do up a objective goal map. It’s a powerful tool when motivating staff. Rinse and repeat My biggest tip for repeat business is simple: Consistency. You have to be on point every day with every client. You can’t do this service inconsistently as it will always be noticed. If you treat every client like you did on their first visit they tend to stick to you. It’s proven that it’s generally on the third visit that you lose a client. Team work In January, we plan
In the ranks A lot of my seniors are with
Coming up Future plans for Rustiq involve
me from training stages which is a very proud moment when I look at the work they do. When hiring apprentices, I look for passion, dedication and presentation. The hunger they have for the
more education and training, and for me, it’s a new venture with a colleague of mine that is set to be announced very soon involving Education – I am super excited about it. ✂ rustiqsalon.com
Time out I have a work planner that is scheduled three to six months in advance and if I’m on a day off, I AM ON A DAY OFF. But sometimes stuff happens and you just have to roll with it.
Staying focused I want to continue learning how to run my business even more effectively and come up with new ideas to be more profitable. The margins are so tight in this industry, but I am always seeking advice. I am HUGE believer in education so I’m always putting myself through the ringer when it comes to learning.
two days. If I was to pick something I struggle with, it might be switching off.
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extra training and get ready for the IHF in March. We have a team meeting where we decide our main objectives and a salon goal is decided by the team –this makes them all so driven.
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Lightbulb Moment NoEl HIGGINS is a man with the business in his blood. In the family My mother was a hairdresser, so
I suppose you would say it is in the blood. When I was 16 I was asked by a friend of the family who owned several successful salons could I help him out for a few weeks as he had opened a new salon in Killiney and was short staffed. 30 years on and the rest is history. And I still love my job. Colour creative Colouring courses always
meant a lot to me, all my colour courses were in the L’Oréal academy in London. Colour Correction was the course that really helped my career as it is the biggest part of my business. Balancing act Being head colourist
Knowledge share
Mint condition
It all starts with a good consultation. Sometimes
now is your chance to explore their needs. Every client is different and some will need more encouragement than others to express their requirements. Having some strong opening questions ready, that encourage clients to define their needs, can be really useful to spark conversation. Not for turning There is nothing I
would do differently in my career. I have tried my hand at different aspects, from working in the salon to being a colour technician for several colour companies. Working with Keratherapy and becoming an ambassador for Ireland and the UK has been a highlight. Always learning
I have talked for so long about going back to the book and becoming a trichologist. Hopefully 2018 we will see that journey begin. I am currently working on a project which will benefit salons in Ireland and the UK. It’s in the infancy stages and cannot say much more... ✂ noelhiggins.com
Motivation doesn’t always mean money: training and support has always worked for my employees. After every course that my staff attend, we always have an in-salon training night to share new ideas.
Smooth talker Once you have the client seated,
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and salon owner/manager is a big role. Working behind the chair and managing staff is difficult at the best of times. In a small company, employees can’t avoid each other so it’s important to find people who mesh well. This doesn’t mean they all have to have the same disposition; aim to hire a nice mix of individuals, including those with bubbly personalities and those with calm, laid-back attitudes.
clients might not be happy hearing the truth about their hair, but when you give them good advice and explain that we can work together to improve the condition of their hair and achieve better colour.
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Slow
Expert View In our ‘instant access’ society, the pressure to always be training, working, posting, liking and sharing can leave us over-worked and under-whelmed. Business coach JackIE JaRvIs makes the case for taking it slow.
W
hat does your Voice of Slow say? Does it ask you to take your time, to stop juggling tasks, to stop pushing for more? Does it plead with you to rest for a while, to savour moments in your life, to take a pause? Do you heed its calling, or do you choose to ignore its presence? Do you prefer to listen to another voice that speaks louder in your head, telling you that you can’t stop, that if you do, you may never get going again? Who says that you don’t have permission to pause?
The world praises fast
What happens under stress?
You may be familiar with the term ‘fight or flight’ which describes the mechanism in the body that enables us to mobilise bursts of energy to cope with threats to our survival. This was the same in prehistoric times as it is today, the only difference being our perception of stress. Fight or flight is an automatic bodily response when a threat is perceived, and our autonomic nervous system puts our bodies on alert. Stress hormones are released, the heart beats more rapidly, and breathing is quicker. However, the part of our brain which initiates this automatic fight or flight response cannot distinguish between a real or a perceived threat. If we continually keep our minds on ‘stress alert’
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The challenge is that we are living in a society which applauds ‘busyness’; we are all constantly in a rush, squeezing more tasks into already-packed agendas, multi-tasking, never having time to stop. Being busy can be interpreted as being successful; you may no longer be effective, you may not be happy or fulfilled, but if you are busy and accomplishing things, well, then you must be successful, mustn’t you? With modern technology, speed is everything. Fast food, same-day delivery, instant turnaround. Nobody can wait anymore. Maybe this is why many of us feel so out of balance and out of sync with ourselves?
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Expert View and never let our foot off the accelerator, we can find ourselves dealing with perceived threats all day long! If we do not allow time for our bodies to recover from these stress alerts, we will eventually run out of energy. Also, the stress hormones created by these automatic responses are not good for our long-term health. So why not slow down – what is stopping you?
head, that you must keep going, that if you stop nobody else is going to do it for you. The part of you that lacks trust, that is afraid that everything will fall apart if you stop pushing. Your Ego is primarily driven by fear. Your soul, however, is the part of you that wants you to be true to yourself. The part of you that lies deep within and looks out through your eyes. It is the part of you that lives within your body and speaks the gentle words of slow to you.
Fear pressure
Much of the pressure we often find ourselves feeling is selfgenerated, created by our inner A moment to pause voices. Think of the voice that Just take a pause and sit urges you to move quicker somewhere quietly for a moment. and achieve more, as your Ego Allow yourself to take three deep is a business coach and sales talking, persuading you that breaths. As you breathe out, let specialist working with overyou can’t slow down. You have go of the tension you are holding loaded SME business owners too much to do, you are too in. Allow your shoulders to drop. and their teams to gain clarity, important, you must move Close your eyes and just sit in focus and create the positive quickly to achieve all your goals. silence for a few minutes. momentum they need to grow Think of the other quieter As you take this pause, let the in the way that is important to voice you hear as your Soul’s thoughts that compete to take up them. She has over 25 years’ voice. This voice may have other space in your mind float past, like experience with both top brands plans for you, but can become clouds in the sky. Let them go. and small start-up companies drowned out by the noise and Allow yourself this moment to and is the author of three books. force of your Ego. At times, reconnect. it can feel like you have two very different people influencing you, one on each Reflections shoulder, both vying for your attention. Without stopping to think, write down your answers What does your Ego say to prevent you slowing to the following questions: down? Are these statements familiar to you?
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Jackie Jarvis
>> >> >> >> >>
If I slow down, will people think I can’t cope? If I stop, no-one else is going to do this work I can’t take time out, it is weak If I slow down, I may fail I have too much to do and it won’t get done if I go slower
Upon hearing these messages, what do you do? Do you keep on going, drowning out the whisper of your soul which implores you to stop and listen to what you really need?
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>> What do you believe could happen, in a positive way, if you slowed down? >> What would not happen? >> Which voice are you listening too – your Ego or your Soul? >> Which voice would you like to listen to?
Now look at what you have written down and ask yourself the following questions:
Listen to your Voice of Slow
>> What have you written down that is driven by or connected to FEAR? >> What have you written down that is motivated by LOVE for yourself? ✂
Think of your Ego as being the part of you (i.e. your mind) which has brought with it all the beliefs from your past. The opinions of teachers, parents, and employers, the voice that says to you loudly in your
In Pursuit of Slow: Stress Less. Be Happier. Accomplish More by Jackie Jarvis is available on Amazon
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Are you hiring the best people for the job? Expert and coach KEN WEst has some tips to refine your recruiting.
building Team
I
t’s common for me to hear salon owners complaining about their team. “They don’t do what I ask them to do.” “They drive me mad.” “Why don’t they do it like me?” These are phrases I hear all of the time. How does this happen when the reality is that your team is exactly that… your team: You interviewed them, you chose them, you employed them and you set the standards that they work to. So what goes wrong? Let’s look at the first part of the chain of events: Recruitment. The real problem here is often the result of supply and demand. Most salons find it hard to Ken West has been a part of find good team members because of the shortage 3·6·5 Salon Education for over of ‘truly’ qualified stylists. Salons find themselves 25 years and coaching salon in the position of having to take someone on owners for over a decade. As because they are desperate. They then end up a leading business expert, Ken compromising on standards, believing that regularly contributes to titles things will change which they rarely do. including Hairdressers Journal But what do I mean by standards and what are and Salon Business and he has the most important qualities to look for when a monthly column in Creative Head. Ken is passionate about recruiting? Consider this: Recruit attitude and coaching salon businesses to train skills. Any great team is invariably great achieve their goals. What are the because of its culture, and culture comes from issues that matter to you? What attitude. If you believe and feel that the person topics would you like help with? in front of you would be a good fit for your team, Share your questions with Ken, then any skills that they don’t currently have they email me at Tara@fringehq.com can learn, providing they have the right attitude. Part of that attitude is openness to learning. If people have a genuine desire to grow and improve then they have to be prepared to grasp any opportunity to learn from anyone. I believe that every person that you come in contact with can probably do one thing better than you. Imagine how powerful you would become if you learned all of those things. ✂
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Ken West
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Pro Talk Top tips
on the recruitment process
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Think about your pipeline Do you have Saturday workers or run clubs or other programmes for young people? This is a great way to create a steady flow of potential new apprentices. Develop a relationship with your local schools and colleges for work experience and recommendations too.
Where are you advertising? Your window or ‘a board’ can be surprisingly effective, but don’t forget recommendations, word of mouth, social media and online agencies.
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Keep it straightforward Asking the same questions of each interviewee and making notes will help you to justify your decision on the grounds of fact, not feeling.
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Look for attitude and personality. A team is made of individual personalities but a positive attitude should be universal.
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Start off well Once you hire, you have a legal obligation to provide your staff member with a written statement of the main terms of employment. As well as the legal side, give them a thorough induction into your business so they understand the expectations of the role clearly.
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Don’t forget to manage! Clearly set out minimum performance standards and monitor results regularly. Feedback, is so essential for someone new to your salon, whether you are catching them doing things right and encouraging them, or nipping a problem in the bud. As hairdressers and leaders, you are used to talking, in an interview you need to listen. Let the interviewee talk: if they can’t talk to you, how will they ever communicate with a client?
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Keep records You should keep records of applicants and interviews for six months before shredding (as they contain sensitive personal data).
Remember it’s a two-way street Give the interviewee a chance to find out if the role and salon is right for them, too. It’s better to discover this now than in three months.
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Keep it legal Discrimination is illegal on many grounds, don’t forget that gender and age are included, so you can’t advertise for an apprentice aged 16! If you have an application form makes sure it doesn’t ask for date of birth.
Get more than one opinion Second interviews are a good chance to see someone at a different moment in time. Asking them to come in and spend the first twenty minutes meeting a couple of trusted staff members over a coffee will give a new perspective.
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The Final Cut cIaRaN NEvIN on encouraging experimentation and hitting the shows.
Family ties I was always interested in hairdressing, even from an early age. My uncle John was a barber: He owned the iconic Green Dolphin on South Anne St in Dublin city centre. He encouraged me when I showed an interest but at that time barbering was on the wane and he pushed me towards ladies hairdressing. No regrets there! Showing out My inspiration comes from stylists I work with. I have met and worked with some wonderful people without whose influence and guidance I could not have made my career the success it is today. I’m also inspired by the shows: Only recently I was working at show in Madrid doing demonstrations for Ibiza Hair and it was so nice to be involved, even at this stage of my career.
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Short shift I like to think that where my hairdressing is concerned, I am open to different trends. I particularly enjoy working with short hair and giving each client an individual look that’s tailored to them and their lifestyle. Taking chances I do wish that the younger clients might experiment more with their look as an individual, rather than being pigeonholed into the long hair, balayage and extensions look. Extensions should enhance your hair. Training up Being selected on three occasions for the global business awards and winning all three categories is definitely a career highlight. But my proudest achievement was when I received a small award for the best trainee. I was with Anco then which became FÁS. I treasure it because it gave me the confidence to know what you can achieve with hard work.
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Social problem A developing issue for the industry is probably social media. It’s ongoing and it never stops 24 hours
a day! With changes in technology, businesses are expected to operate constantly and our brains too. We need our brains and bodies to relax and we need to develop that skill! Online shopping is another area. When it comes down to it, our retail business will be challenged and we will have to step up to the mark. Practise makes… The desire to strive for perfection keeps me going. You may not reach it sometimes but it sure motivates you. My mind is always saying let’s make it better. That’s my plan! And to keep cutting hair. Final word Would I do anything differently… Not quite sure on that one! ✂ ciarannevin.ie
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