DSTN Sundsvall Eng

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EXPLORE NORTHERN SWEDEN DESTINATION SUNDSVALL TIMRÅ ÅNGE

sea, nature and the Stone City

ll a v s d n Su THE STONE CITY • FISHING • BATHING • SHOPPING FISHING VILLAGES • ACCOMMODATION CAFÉS • FOOD • ACTIVITIES

New visitor map!

Follow the sun in the city of restaurants

Feel happy with every step

SUNDSVALL’S MANY OUTDOOR EATERIES

ST OLAVSLEDEN TRAIL

Showing all our must-see attractions along our most scenic routes.

!

E4 is boring.

Go ...

A unique stretch of road between Hudiksvall and Sundsvall

Cafes and restaurants • Vibrant fishing villages • Industrial History Arts and Crafts • Wonderful beaches for swimming and enjoyment Hotels, pensions and campsites • Golf and fishing ...

The road goes mainly in forest and agricultural landscape close to the sea.

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Ljungan

Sörfjärden Oxsand

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Destination Galtströms Bruk

Welcome to a beautiful and historical setting.

Galtströms Bruk delivers.

Galtströms Bruk

Galtström Ironworks was Medelpad’s first, largest and last ironworks and it is one of the most well preserved in Sweden. The ironworks was founded in 1673. This is a popular destination situated on the coastline just south of Sundsvall, and easy to reach. Take the E4 highway 19 kilometers south of Sundsvall, exit at Myre Centrum and follow the signs towards Galtström.

Galtström Church The little white wooden church is very popular for christenings, weddings and musical events.

It is open as a Roadside church between 4th29th July. During the summer, music is performed here every Sunday evening at 6 pm.

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Galtström is a lot more than just iron

On Saturdays and Sundays SCA, the landowner offers guided tours for free at 1 pm.

Welcome to the restuarant. Icecreem, food, fika and minigolf. Open every day from June 26 to august 26 at 12 am to 10 pm.

In the small bakery house (Bagarstuga) you can buy freshly baked bread, or why not have a cake and a nice cup of coffee or tea in the Cafeteria by the peaceful Church Pond.

At Vitsand, the sandy beach, you can enjoy a swim or admire the beautiful rocks shaped by the sea.

In the harbour, you will find our steam ship Ophelia built in 1884, the old steam powered crane and a brand new jetty for small boats.

Take a ride on Galtströmståget, pulled by Loke, a 130 year old steam locomotive.

For current timetables, please check our website for more info. www.galststromsbruk.se The Diversity Park Njurundakusten and The Marine Nature Reserve Långören Galtströms Bruk is located in the middle of SCA’s Diversity Park, an area characterized by a large diversity of natural, cultural and recreational values, by far more inspirational than the average forest landscape can offer. Explore the park and the reserve; Follow the marked trails with its idyllic picnic areas around Galtströms Bruk.

Destination Galtströms Bruk in association with

InfoPoints can guide you to new destinations

InfoPoints are sited at selected key locations to ensure visitors can easily access information on all our local area has to offer, both digitally and in the form of maps and leaflets.

Make a visit to InfoPoints, or the Stenstan Visitor Center in Sundsvall, your first port of call on your trip. You may even find some new hidden gems to explore while you’re here. visitsundsvall.se

PHOTO KRISTOFER LÖNNÅ

When you visit an InfoPoint, you can be sure of obtaining useful help and information during your visit.

InfoPoint

Ånge Naturum Ånge (visitor centre) Eklids Macken i Östavall Boda Borg Hotell Mittlandia Träffpunkt Haverö in Överturingen

Timrå Timrå municipal building Ljustorps Handel Y:et Timrå Golf Club

Sundsvall First Camp Sundsvall Stöde Camping Café Tunet Svartvik tower in Myre Bergafjärden Camping Restaurang Grankotten Himlabadet (swimming baths) Matforsfabriken Selånger Pilgrimscenter

dstn / Editorial

Editorial

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Here you will find freedom, open space and new experiences offer exactly what many people yearn for these days: open space in forest, countryside and urban settings, hiking trails, spots for bathing and fishing, nature reserves with unique cottage accommodation, and an exciting and vibrant history to discover for yourself.

CONTACT THE EDITORIAL TEAM

red@dstnsundsvall.se +46 60 66 99 33

SUNDSVALL, TIMRÅ AND ÅNGE

Facebook: dstnsundsvall DSTN Sundsvall is a free magazine published twice a year for the Sundsvall region.

We take no responsibility for non-commissioned material.

When evening comes, your adventure can go on as long as

you want. Our light summer nights offer enchanting nature experiences where fantasy meets reality and magic can happen any time and anywhere.

Coastal culinary experiences await in beachside settings

and along our rocky shorelines. You will find restaurants and cafés dotted along our coastline like a string of pearls, with the enduring spectacle of the sea to be enjoyed outside the window or from the jetty. Follow the Skeppshamnsleden route through lush countryside right out to the bare rocky shoreline, stopping off along the way to treat yourself to some flea-market browsing, Swedish coffee and cakes and delicious fish dishes.

The historic city centre of Sundsvall, also known as

Stenstan, provides a trip back in time. A rooftop tour in the company of knowledgeable guides is sure to give you a new perspective. The roof terraces and pavement seating of the local restaurants offer alfresco dining whilst soaking up the buzz of the city. Looking for a more active kind of buzz and adrenaline? Then the undulating forest trails that are within easy reach are perfect for cycling and running.

If you’re seeking a more tranquil option, there are plenty of

picturesque local hiking trails. Follow in the footsteps of St Olav along the world’s most northerly pilgrimage route, or follow the example of Sweden’s Crown Princess Victoria and explore the forests of Jämtgaveln in Ånge.

Freedom has become our most valuable asset. Here you

will find space to live, breathe, enjoy new experiences and recharge your batteries. Welcome.

Destination Sundsvall-Timrå-Ånge visitsundsvall.se

CONCEPT & PRODUCTION Frosting Kommunikationsbyrå hej@frosting.se frosting.se RESPONSIBLE PUBLISHER Håkan Björnström hakan@frosting.se EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jennie Zetterqvist jennie@frosting.se EDITORIAL TEAM Jennie Zetterqvist Håkan Norberg Håkan Björnström Annelie Thorsell CONTRIBUTORS Anders Björk Mikael Ejemar Vikström Andreas Söderlund Håkan Björnström Marc Grein Lasse Hallberg Svanthe Harström Kristofer Lönnå Håkan Norberg Jennie Zetterqvist Annelie Thorsell and others.

ADVERTISING Mediamix Sundsvall info@mediamixsundsvall.se +46 (0)20 77 11 00 COVER Spikarna, Alnö, Sundsvall.

Photo: Anders Thorsell.

TRANSLATION Semantix PRINTING Åtta45 Tryckeri

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The story of Sundsvall.

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Coastal flavours!

Make the sea your main course this summer!

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Stenstan Visitor Center, an experience centre and tourist office in the heart of the stone city of Sundsvall.

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Take a hike along the St Olavsleden trail.

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Destination map.

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Go fishing!

34 Activities.

36 Restaurants.

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Buy locally produced goods.

There’s plenty to choose from when looking for gifts.

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dstn / Visitor attractions

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Exploring DESTINATION Sundsvall 1

Friluftscentrum Södra Berget

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Vättaberget

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Spikarna

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Gudmundstjärn heritage site

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Svartvik industrial heritage centre

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Nolby Högar

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Selånger Pilgrimscenter

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Stornäset nature reserve

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Boda Borg

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Åstön island

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Observation tower at Norra Berget

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Indalsälvens Delta nature reserve

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Stenstan / The Stone City

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Lögdö Bruk cultural heritage site

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Lake Sidsjön

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Camp Mid Adventure

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Matforsfabriken

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Geographical Midpoint of Sweden

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Tunet and Alnö old church

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dstn / Visitor attractions

VISITOR CENTER PHOTO Kristofer Lönnå

Welcome to Stenstan Visitor Center, an experience centre and tourist office

in the heart of the stone city of Sundsvall. Interactive displays will give you a fascinating insight into the creative history of the city, as well as its present and future. Go on your own historical voyage of discovery or book a tour with one of our guides. Discover the wide selection of visitor attractions, restaurants and cultural experiences that the region has to offer via the interactive InfoPoint screen or take a seat in the library to browse additional material and find new hidden gems. There’s lots to explore and countless glimpses of times gone by for those with a sense of curiosity.

The people, the Stone City and a variety of exhibitions.

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Discover all the region has to offer via the interactive screen.

For more information, go to visitsundsvall.se and @visitsundsvall on Instagram and Facebook

Local knowledge Take a seat in our library and read a magazine.

Stenstan Visitor Center is a combined tourist office and experience centre located in Sundsvall Town Hall in Stora torget. Here you can learn more about the history of the region and all it has to offer.

Dragons are renowned symbols of Sundsvall.

Pay a visit to the old jail – if you dare.

Take a glimpse into the future.

Get to know the individuals who made their mark on the history of the city.

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dstn / / Visitor attractions

l l a v s d n u S IDYLLIC

DAYS IN

TEXT Jennie Zetterqvist PHOTO Anders Thorsell

Want to stroll around a historic city, feel a sense of freedom by the sea or

enjoy the beauty of nature? Destination Sundsvall offers activities to suit all tastes and ages. The only question is how much time do you have to spare?

Eight, twelve or twenty four hours – we have some suggestions for how to make the most of your day. One key tip is to always start by visiting the Stenstan Visitor Center, which is located in the town hall in Stora torget.

You are sure to come away with even more ideas!

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8 hours

12 hours

Head for Norra Berget open-air museum to relive times gone by in a fun setting. For the energetic and adventurous, we recommend the steps that go up from the start of Baldersvägen. Otherwise, you can take a bus, or there is plenty of free parking for families going by car. Take the opportunity to enjoy lunch or refreshments at the café or restaurant before it’s time to join Cirkus Elvira’s free outdoor circus school (open to anyone aged 4 years and over).

Round off your day with a fire engine tour of Stenstan. The whole family can enjoy a guided tour of the city centre aboard a vintage fire engine.

In keeping with the circus theme, finish with dinner at Pinchos.

Families with a little more time to spare can head west to Matfors­ fabriken, which organises a multitude of children’s activities in summer. Find out more on their Facebook page. Then continue on to Flataklocken, the geographical midpoint of Sweden, where you can enjoy refreshments in summer at the seasonal Café Mittpunkten. Next on your adventure itinerary – why not try a booked activity at Camp Mid Adventure Fun Park or take on a host of tricky challenges at Boda Borg in Torpshammar? Once back in Sundsvall, you can enjoy a Thai dinner in an exciting setting at Chaow Praya River. If you’re not quite ready to call it a day, we recommend a relaxing evening at the cinema in Sundsvall.

Families

The circus is in town.

Adventure in the wild west.

24 hours

Action-packed fun – wet and dry.

Start your day with a visit to Sunds­ vall Museum and the new Pettsson & Findus exhibition. Then head for some watery fun at the adventure pool at Himlabadet, where you can also have lunch. Spend your afternoon at Södra Berget recreation area, where you can explore the Tarzan­ stigen or Björnstigen adventure trails. Dinner can be enjoyed at Strike Club up on the mountain, followed by bowling to round off your day.

Other fun attractions:

• Sea bathing at Bänkåsviken, Alnö.

•G altströms Bruk heritage site and Loke steam train.

visitsundsvall.se provides tips for more activities.

EXPAND YOUR HORIZONS 8 hours

12 hours

24 hours

Begin by watching the film about the history of Stenstan (Stone City) at Stenstan Visitor Center.

Don’t forget to pick up a map pinpointing the elegant stone buildings before heading out to explore the city. Take the opportunity to snap a selfie on the majestic marble staircase at Elite Hotel Knaust.

Then take a stroll up to Norra Berget and enjoy lunch at Restaurang Grankotten with views over the city and the bay. Or why not visit the glorious plants and flowers of Katrinelunds Trädgård and enjoy some refreshments? Dinner can be taken alfresco at Bloco in the centre of Stora torget. A stroll down to the harbour is an excellent way to end your day.

Start your day at Svartvik Industrial Heritage Centre, 10 km south of Sundsvall. Here you can experience a little piece of living history and gain an insight into Sundsvall’s exciting era as a centre of sawmill operations, with preserved buildings and signage to guide visitors all year round. Then make your way to Bröderna Bommen in Njurunda, home to a brewery and a distillery offering bookable guided tours and a bakery, where you can enjoy light refreshments or lunch made using local produce. Treat yourself to some me-time at Spa Vida Vyer with views over the town from Södra Berget.

Book an Italian dinner at Invito and round off your day with a drink accompanied by sea views on the veranda at Casino Cosmopol.

Get ready for a full day of fresh sea air as you hit the road for Timrå and the scenic Skeppshamnsleden route. Stop off at various flea markets along your route out to Skeppshamn. Take a stroll along the rocky shoreline and enjoy the picturesque scenery at Åstön nature reserve before retracing your route and calling in for lunch at Färjas Brygga on Tynderö. Back in Sundsvall, explore the heights on a rooftop tour of Stenstan’s elegant buildings. A five-course dinner served at Naturaj by Johan Backéus, 2017 Chef of the Year. If you fancy some live music, try a local restaurant such as Gambrinushallen or E Street, or soak up the buzz of the roof terrace at Udda Tapas Bar, where they serve delicious drinks. If you’ve booked into one of Stenstan’s many hotels for the night, then you won’t have far to get ‘home’. Sleep well!

Adults

Historical city tour ending at the harbour.

Breweries, bakeries and expansive views.

Coastal flea market tour that finishes on a high.

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dstn / Culture

The first and last city TEXT Håkan Norberg PHOTO Håkan Björnström, Sundsvall Museum

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The story of Sundsvall is told in the buildings of

Stenstaden (Stone City). So look up and gaze around at this unique city centre, with buildings you wouldn’t find this far north anywhere else in the world.

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HE STONE CITY CENTRE OF SUNDSVALL rose from the

ashes following a major fire in 1888.

“As a monument to a golden age without equal in the history of Sweden,” says author and journalist Nils Johan Tjärnlund.

His book Staden som reste sig ur askan (The city that rose from the ashes) is an architectural guide illustrating the creation of Sundsvall’s new city centre built of stone. Who were the developers and the architects? And what were the original functions of the buildings?

The golden age described by Nils Johan was rooted in the largest concentration of sawmills in the world. The forestry industry generated unparalleled growth in Sundsvall, which helped to lay the foundations for the prosperity of the city and the country as a whole.

“Swedish economic history is largely based on the development of Sundsvall and its forestry industry and shipping,” says Nils Johan.

With few exceptions, all the buildings in

Stenstaden were constructed using private money, and some were actually private homes. The region was highly independent

in this way and was characterised by a strong sense of initiative and entrepreneurial spirit.

“Sundsvall is also akin to Östermalm in Stockholm, with its magnificent stone buildings, designed and constructed by the same architects and contractors. It reflects a thousand-year-old tradition of urban design in Europe,” says Nils Johan.

He notes in his book that Sundsvall was a

staging post for Norrlanders considering trying their luck in America. And perhaps some of them chose to stay put, since the pioneering spirit was so strong in this city that came to be known as the Gateway to Northern Sweden. Goods from around the world arrived in Sundsvall for onward distribution northwards.

Stenstaden was a melting pot and an unusual sight, a European-style city surrounded by farmland and dirt roads.

And Sundsvall remains unique in this way, as expressed by art historian Anders Åman in 1964/1988: “Viewed from the perspective of the old European tradition of urban design, Stenstaden is the last city in Europe.

If you are coming from the south. Or the first. If you are coming from the north.”

So take a tour through the first and

last city. Through the unique city centre of Sundsvall, with buildings you wouldn’t find this far north anywhere else in the world.

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dstn / Culture STORGATAN

Sundsvall had a tram system between 1910 and 1952.

1. The DahlmanskaNordlingska building Storgatan 12-14.

Constructed 1891-1892.

Between the first and second floor, along the entire façade starting at Nybrogatan, is a mural that can be likened to a comic strip. It depicts the building industry, from architectural drawing through to construction. An excellent place to begin a tour of a city that experienced a construction boom around 1900 that is unparalleled in the history of Sweden.

2. Kulturmagasinet

Packhusgatan 4.

Constructed 1890, 1891 and 1895.

Converted in the 1980s.

Eight former colonial warehouse buildings combined to create a cultural centre with space for exhibitions, a library and a restaurant. The merchants of Sundsvall received goods here from around the world for onward distribution to Northern Sweden.

3. Hotel Knaust

Storgatan 13. Constructed 1891.

Legendary hotel, known throughout

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xplore a city that was given a fresh start on a grand

scale following the disastrous fire of 1888 and which has a rich history that is plain for all to see. The story of NORR RNVÄG SG ATAN Sundsvall is told right in front ofA JÄour eyes in the buildings of Stenstaden. Here is a selection, starting at the eastern end of Storgatan and heading SÖDRA west.

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Sweden and internationally. The hotel was a favourite with the timber barons of Sundsvall, hosting grand dinners, fabled parties and general meetings. The classic staircase in the foyer and the richly decorated mirror hall are a breathtaking sight for even the most world-weary of visitors. The hotel guest list includes such notable names as King Chulalongkorn of Thailand, Zarah Leander and Louis Armstrong.

4. Svea (insurance company) building

Storgatan 18. Constructed 1893.

One of many examples of how the capital-intensive insurance industry, like numerous banks, was drawn to Sundsvall with its booming economy. Author and feminist Frida Stéenhoff lived here for a period.

at Vängåvan was completed, only to be destroyed by the huge fire a few years later. The building was severely damaged, but was restored. It was the largest bank branch outside Stockholm at that time and Sundsvalls Enskilda Bank was the leading commercial bank in Northern Sweden.

“The hotel was a favourite with the timber barons of Sundsvall, hosting grand dinners, fabled parties and general meetings.”

Nils Johan Tjärnlund, author.

6. The Wikströmska building

Esplanaden 14. Constructed 1892.

One of the most unusual buildings in Stenstaden, with a richly decorated façade in the southern European style. The three-storey building was constructed as a family residence by Gregor Wikström. The Wikströms were one of Sundsvall’s most affluent families and owned Mons sawmill south of the city.

7. The Granska building

5. Sundsvalls Enskilda Bank

Storgatan 26.

Constructed 1889-1891.

Sundsvalls Enskilda Bank was founded in 1864 at a different address. Just over twenty years later, the block-wide bank building

One of Stenstaden’s first examples of the new architectural ideal of the late 19th century, incorporating natural materials and irregular façades.

The building was constructed by well-to-do pharmacist Peter Gran

Kyrkogatan 15.

Constructed 1883-1886.

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One of the first major stone buildings in Sundsvall will be 150 years old this year. The town hall now houses Stenstan Visitor Center, a combi­nation of tourist office and experience centre. Drop by and discover more about the history of the city!

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The town hall, 150 years old

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and the text Apoteket Gripen initials can be found on the façade, can still be seen at the Ncorner never actually lived in the building.

ORRA JÄ of RNVÄ Storgatan-Centralgatan. Keep an GSGATANOne example of the wealthy who eye out for the many façade murals chose to invest in Sundsvall despite and texts in Latin, along with Gran’s negligible personal links to the monogram. city. The façade clock overlooking Storgatan is a copy of the original 8. The Holmströmska created by the oldest tenant of the building building (Björnströms watchStorgatan 28. Constructed 1896. making company).

This was the site of the city’s market hall, subsequently department 10. The Hedbergska store Forum and today shopping building centre In, and it extends across Kyrkogatan 26. several blocks along Storgatan. The Constructed 1889-1890. building matches so well with the One of the best-preserved Granska building next door that 19th-century buildings in Sundsvall, they can easily be taken to be a in a picturesque location beside single building. The inner courtyard Hedbergska park. It was constructed between the buildings has been

by Johan August Hedberg as a resintegrated into the structure and idence for him and his wife Maria. now houses a restaurant.

The façade ornamentation includes stylised faces and clusters of fruit, 9. The Hirschska building and the iron gates giving entry to Torggatan 6-8. the courtyard bear Hedberg’s iniBERGSG ATAN Constructed 1890-1891. tials. Today, some of the reception The Hirschska building extends rooms are used to host municipal along the entire western side functions and weddings. of Stora torget, almost in its original glory following extensive 11. The Bernska building restoration just over ten years Storgatan 34. ago. Developer Isak Hirsch, whose Constructed 1893-1894.

A candidate for Stenstaden’s most expensive building – constructed entirely from natural stone with ambitious façade murals and an extremely lavish staircase. Above the entrance is the lettering J Bern, to denote the developer Johan Bern, in gold leaf. The building is now home to shops, offices and a café.

12. Riksbanken

Storgatan 29.

Constructed 1906-1907.

One of a small number of buildings constructed using public money.

Inspired by the baroque style, with a steeply pitched roof of black tiles and copper-clad corner turrets. Above the name Riksbank is a large relief panel featuring the Swedish coat of arms.

Riksbanken only had branches in county towns, and this branch in Sundsvall was one of only two exceptions. The building subsequently housed Sundsvall Museum and is now office premises.

13. Skandia (insurance company) building

Storgatan 31. Constructed 1957.

A later example of what Stenstaden

represented: an era when buildings were constructed more for the purpose of making an impression than yielding any return. This is evident more than anywhere in the artistic ornamentation; for example, the wooden window frames and the ironwork at the entrance from Varvsgränd. The motifs are drawn from the forest, industry, the ocean and the home.

14. The grammar school

Skolhusallén 6. Constructed 18821886.

It was not until the mid-19th century that grammar schools were set up anywhere other than the old cathedral cities (stiftsstäder).

In Sundsvall, a grand three-storey building was constructed in Italian renaissance style. An arched gateway marks the main entrance onto Köpmangatan, where the students now run out onto the steps every spring.

The building survived the city fire and was used for a long period as a temporary headquarters for the city council.

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dstn / Visitor attractions

Happy Birthday, Sundsvall!

TEXT Jennie Zetterqvist PHOTO Johnér Bildbyrå

Sundsvall was founded in 1621 as an undesirable city in the wrong

location. One relocation, three devastating fires and four centuries later, however, it can now boast an ideal position, both geographically and in the affections of the population. On 23 August 2021, it will be time for 400th anniversary celebrations, and everyone’s invited!

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start as a city.

When King Gustaf II Adolf needed money for his military campaigns, he created cities to bring in tax revenue. In order to form Sundsvall, the Crown bought up three villages: Sund, Köpstaden and Åkersvik.

This amalgamation produced a modest population of 35, which for a long time failed to grow in number.

TENTATIVE

Population explosion – finally!

Fishing was the only means of making a living, and in the 18th century it was also discovered that the city was in completely the wrong location for this, at what is now Åkroken, where Mid Sweden University

is located. When Queen Kristina ordered that the city should be relocated one kilometre to the east to its current position, to give big ships better access to the settlement, there was nothing for it but to obey.

The mid-19th century saw the first population explosion in the area as the heyday of the timber barons began.

The steam sawmills along the coast of Northern Sweden attracted workers who could now earn a living, and Sundsvall could finally begin to justify its epithet of “city”, which it did with a vengeance.

Celebrations for all

Next year Sundsvall will be celebrating its 400th anniversary and planning for the festivities is already well under way. 400 positive Sundsvall ambassadors will be nominated as genuine “sönnsvallare” and will be honoured during 2021 as part of a countdown to the anniversary date.

The intention is for the celebrations to be for everyone, by everyone and to continue throughout the year, culminating in Stenstansdagarna. The official anniversary date, 23 August 2021, will see a fantastic party at Fisktorget and along the river Selångersån. The motto for the celebrations is inclusion and pride, and plans are afoot for a performance involving up to one thousand local residents. Sundsvall’s ten-year-olds, together with the business community, will also be making an exciting contribution to ensure that the festivities are a springboard for the future.

Pine forests, sour milk

and browned butter

TEXT Håkan Norberg PHOTOS Håkan Norberg, Susanne Molin, Adobe Stock

If Destination Sundsvall were a drink, how would it taste?

The editorial team took a tour of the region to try to determine the answer.

Mrs Francis Restaurang RÅ

Uddmas Udda Tapas Bar

Tyra Udda Tapas Bar

“This is a special version of this drink,” says Filip Karjel as he places the dainty glass on the bar. “I don’t always have browned butter in,” he continues.

Browned butter?

A normal Mrs Francis at Restaurang RÅ contains Falernum (Caribbean liqueur), Caña Brava (rum), lime and lime curd. Now browned butter has been added to the recipe, which seems slightly unusual here.

The drink tastes of early Christmas Eve morning, it’s rounded and sweet with a touch of caramel.“Drinking browned butter should be a human right,” exclaims someone in the group. And however weird it might sound, everyone agrees.

Next time you visit RÅ, ask for Filip and check if he happens to have any browned butter behind the bar. If he has, then you’re in luck.

Absolut Extrakt tastes of cardamom, while Amaretto tastes of almond. Mix them with ice and a twist of orange and you have Uddmas – a drink for those who want to try something new, but without lots of gimmicks. Like a christmassy Old Fashioned – distinct, balanced and perfect as a pre-dinner drink.

O.P. Anderson Aquavit, gin, cranberry juice, lemon – and spruce needles. That’s Tyra for you, a delightful, cherry-red tall drink topped with spruce needles. Refreshing and tangy with a discreet forest flavour.

rasundsvall.se

uddasundsvall.se

Skogstokig Ipa Invito Strong bitter with a taste of the forest.

Skogstokig Ipa is a craft beer made by local brewery Brygglabbet. Suitable for pairing with game or stews, or can be enjoyed on its own. sundsvall.invitobar.se

Fuzzy Lemon Ménageriet Fuzzy Lemon tastes like sorbet in liquid form, refreshing and fruity. It contains vodka, RinQuinQuin (liqueur), limoncello (liqueur), lemon, syrup, egg white and spruce oil.

Tip: dip your finger in the whisked egg white on top, with spruce oil drizzled over.

If that doesn’t transport you to the forest, then all that remains is to get your gear on and head there for real. menageriet.se

uddasundsvall.se

Northern Sour Restaurang RÅ Imagine a Swedish Piña Colada, with gin instead of rum and local dairy product Fjällfil (!) in place of coconut milk. Add sea buckthorn, a little lemon and top with some vanilla-scented pansies. The result is tangy and slightly sweet with a hint of dryness.

Northern Sour has a totally unique flavour of Norrland winter and is as much an experience and a talking point as a drink. rasundsvall.se

Gamla Affären Pilsner Gamla Affären in Västerå At a microbrewery in the forest the owners of rustic restaurant Gamla Affären have developed their own pilsner, the sort that the old men would sit and drink at the village store when it was open between 1950 and 1965. A light lager with a tendency towards a bitter, hoppy flavour. gamlaaffaren.nu

18

dstn / Restaurants

Follow

the

sun

In the city of restaurants TEXT Håkan Norberg PHOTO Restaurang Grankotten

Summer and alfresco dining go hand in hand.

Why not make the most of the sun and take a tour of some of Sundsvall’s numerous outdoor eateries?

19

Morning

Afternoon

Greet the sun when it rises over the sea in the east in the morning. Enjoy a picnic breakfast at the harbour or coffee and pastries at Café Charm. The casino terrace is another great location, but you’ll have to wait until lunchtime. The same applies to Gambrinus restaurant and beer hall, with outdoor seating along Strandgatan.

Light bites at Udda Tapas Bar or a classic steak at Stekhuset.

Both restaurants have outdoor seating in the sun along Esplanaden, the former on the roof and the latter on the pavement.

The harbour and Strandgatan

Middle of the day Stora torget

Sun-lovers have long enjoyed sunning themselves by the wall of the “old Forum building”. Outdoor dining is now on offer in this very spot at Restaurang Innergården, which despite its name faces Stora torget rather than being in a courtyard. Restaurants Bloco and Svenssons also have outdoor seating in the square, so there’s plenty of capacity.

Esplanaden

Evening

Olof Palmes torg Unbeatable evening sun and a great selection of restaurants make Olof Palmes torg an obvious choice for eating and drinking alfresco. You will find Apa, Kung Louie, Ménageriet, Herr Nilsson, Great Eastern, Sushi Corner and O’Learys.

And any time of day Norra Berget

Restaurang Grankotten is an institution at Norra Berget, with f­ antastic views over Sundsvall. You have the buzz of the city down below and the forest right alongside – and sun practically all day long.

Up on the slopes of Norra Berget or amidst the bustle of the city centre. Sundsvall offers sunny open-air dining to suit all tastes.

20

dstn / Visitor attractions

FEEL HAPPY with every step TEXT Jennie Zetterqvist PHOTO Nils Jakobsson

In troubled times with a multitude of changes to deal

with, space for calm and reflection becomes more important than ever. A hike along the St Olavsleden trail, the most northerly pilgrimage route in the world, can provide the inner and outer journey that you need to gain a new perspective on the everyday.

“T

is the contented feeling of simply walking and feeling happy with every step”.

There are as many reasons to head out for a hike as there are hikers along the St Olavsleden trail. Everyone talks about fantastic nature experiences, but there is also agreement on something else: the inner journey surpasses the 580 kilometres covered physically from coast to coast.

HE BEST MEMORY

Viking Olav Haraldsson was the first

to set out on the route from Selånger in 1030. His objective was to reclaim the kingdom of Norway. He failed and was killed and buried. However, when strange miracles began happening in the vicinity of his grave, the rumour started that he was a holy man.

The canonised Saint Olav later became

Scandinavia’s first, and perhaps most popular, saint. He was moved to a new burial site at Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, which now marks the end of the trail. You may complete the whole route, or you may chose to hike a shorter section along the way. Whatever length of route you choose, it’s always beneficial to take some time out and immerse yourself in reality at the leisurely pace best suited to human senses and perceptions. You will undoubtedly encounter friendly individuals who will make an unforgettable impression on you. But, above all, it will give you time to get to know yourself.

Expect picturesque nature experiences along the St Olavsleden trail.

21

Whatever length of route you choose, it’s always beneficial to take some time out and immerse yourself in reality at the leisurely pace best suited to human senses and perceptions.

Stiklestad Munkeby Markabygda

Vuku

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Lånke Folden Trondheim/Nidaros

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Selånger Pilgrimscenter welcomes hikers setting off on the trail. The centre is new, but is housed in a converted barn dating from 1907, and the site on which it stands is historic.

Olav Haraldsson landed here to set off on this route, and you will be following in his footsteps. The pilgrimage centre marks the start of the St Olavsleden trail and welcomes anyone who wants to learn more about the trail, the history of Selånger or pilgrimage as a life style. Café Himlagott serves lunches and light refreshments. It opened for business last summer, but will have its official opening in 2021 when Sundsvall celebrates its 400th anniversary. selangerpilgrimscenter.se.

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The adventure starts here

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en A ls n p la Va n nd dö su Rö te r Ös o d n fl B r u im s t a d gr P il v s u n e R ll ö ä G en c ke ns B rä g rä ns Lä jö s rg Bo ta ns Frä

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Sundsvall

Selånger

About the St Olavsleden trail This mediaeval pilgrimage route runs from the Gulf of Bothnia to the Atlantic, from Sundsvall to Trondheim, through two countries and eleven municipalities. The trail is divided into five stages, each made up of a number of shorter sections.

Start from the new pilgrimage centre in Selånger. stolavsleden.com.

22

dstn / Visitor attractions

“ I don’t want the day to end,” said Crown Princess Victoria of her walk in Jämtgaveln nature reserve on one of her province walks around Sweden.

Jämtgaveln – a favourite royal hike TEXT Jennie Zetterqvist PHOTO Raphael Stecksén Kungl. Hovstaterna, Lena Gustafsson

Follow Crown Princess Victoria’s example: explore

Jämt­gaveln on foot. Hiking in Västernorrland’s biggest nature ­reserve in Ånge will provide some different nature experiences and an insight into how forests used to look.

J

of a mosaic of differing types of natural landscape, incorporating both land and water.

“Gammel­skogen” (old-growth forest) is characterised by numerous fires and creates a very special atmosphere. The reserve has just over 20 km of hiking ­trails, several overnight cabins, picnic spots and more than 20 information points detailing the history of the area. It also offers excellent fishing possibilities, with the largest lake being Torringen. ÄMTGAVELN IS MADE UP

When the Crown Princess came to

Medelpad as part of her province walks tour around Sweden, she chose to visit Jämtgaveln. This was one of the final hikes on her “tour”, which concluded in 2019, and she would highly recommend it judging from her comments in the Royal Court’s own film of the visit: “There’s a wonderful atmosphere walking through the forest here among the lovely moss-covered rocks. I don’t want the day to end.”

Hiking in Timrå DRAMATIC SCENERY, historic environ-

ments and breathtaking views. Timrå boasts excellent hiking trails that provide both learning and enjoyment.

Go hiking independently or book with a guide. At vandraitimra.com you can book guided experiences, combining hiking with a touch of luxury in the form of manor house accommodation.

Tip! Visit vandringsguiden.se/ vandringsleder/medelpad for further inspiration for your own hiking adventures in Destination Sundsvall.

Dramatic hiking routes awa it in Timrå.

23

THRILLS GALORE IN

THE CITY OF CYCLES Sundsvall TEXT Jennie Zetterqvist PHOTO Adobe Stock

Hilly Sundsvall is ­perfect for adrenaline-junkie cyclists! With a network of undulating cycle tracks through exciting terrain, a new downhill trail on the slalom slope at Södra Berget and a bike park by the river Sel­ång­ers­ån in the heart of the city, there’s plenty to choose from whatever level of difficulty your prefer.

A

it will be even better. Projekt Dynamo Sundsvall is currently creating new and improved facilities for cyclists, and from autumn a variety of trails for mountain-biking will be established, primarily in the area around Södra Berget. For those familiar with the technical terms, it will include flow trails, an XCO trail and tarmac pump tracks.

“Cycling for me is creative, meditative and, above all, fun and liberating. A cycle trail is like a work of art, with each cyclist interpreting it in their own way.”

Philip Lundman, Sundsvalls stigcyklister.

ND SOON

Nevertheless, there are already plenty of

cycling challenges to be found. Great inspiration, information and links to maps can be found at sundsvallsstigcyklister.se, where you can also make contact with like-minded individuals.

Tip! Did you know that you can cycle the full length of the St Olavsleden trail? Head out on two wheels from Sundsvall to Trondheim along the world’s most northerly pilgrimage route.

24

Coasta l

dstn / Visitor attractions

FLAVOURS TEXT Håkan Björnström PHOTO Adobe Stock

Our particular stretch of coastline offers the spectacle of the sea, sun-warmed rocky

shores, sweeping sandy beaches and cosy venues serving food and drink. Choose between a classic industrial environment and fishing villages all along the coast. Or why not a rocky headland in Sörfjärden with sea views on three sides? One thing they all have in common is that they serve up coastal flavours and wonderful nature experiences.

Make the sea your main course this summer!

Popular restaurant with the best sea views along the Hälsingland coast. Sample fish and meat dishes from a delicious menu. Located on a rocky headland in Sörfjärden that enjoys the evening sun.

Harbour and guest jetty for boating visitors.

Restaurang Sjömärket Mellanfjärden Authentic dishes cooked from scratch. Fish is their speciality, but they also serve meat and vegetarian dishes. Fishing village to stroll around after dining. Harbour and guest jetty for boating visitors. mellanfjarden.se

enlitenkrog.se

Skatans Café & Krog Skatan

En Liten Sjökrog, Sörfjärden.

PHOTO: SILLMANS

En Liten Sjökrog Sörfjärden

Located in a picturesque fishing village in Sundsvall’s southern archipelago. Serves fish dishes and traditional Swedish fare. Shop selling smoked delicacies. Recommended by the White Guide! Harbour and guest jetty for boating visitors. skatanscafe.se

Restaurang Lörudden, Löran.

Restaurang Lörudden Löran Multi-award-winning and commended restaurant listed in the White Guide. Serving tasty delicacies of all kinds.

Delicious alfresco dining and

drinks on a warm summer’s evening will provide you with delightful memories to last through the winter.

Guest berths are available in the somewhat small harbour. lorudden.se

Salteriet Junibosand You can always drop in at Salteriet for a sandwich, tapas, a hot meal or simply a cup of coffee. On event evenings, tables must be booked in advance. Conference facilities and overnight accommodation. Afterwards the fantastic beach awaits. sillmans.se/salteriet

Café & Restaurang Galtström Galtström The restaurant is located at Galtströms Bruk, an attractive idyll that formed part of the last ironworks in Medelpad.

From light bites and sandwiches to an à la carte menu.

Ice cream and coffee bar. galtstromsbruk.se

Restaurang & Café Juniskär Juniskär Restaurang & Café Juniskär boasts an idyllic archipelago location twenty kilometres south of Sundsvall. Here you can savour lovingly-prepared dishes based on local ingredients. Guest harbour if arriving by sea. cafejuniskar.se

ight Food stra sea! from the

PHOTO: SKATANS CAFÉ & KROG

25

Restaurang Vindhem Alnö Archipelago restaurant in Vindhem marina on southern Alnö. Here you can sample Swedish classics and tasty new surprises, in the form of both food and drink.

Strong focus on seafood.

Guest berths in the marina if arriving by boat. vindhem.se

Carlsvikspiren Alnö The attractive former sawmill building by the water on the southern side of the island of Alnö houses this unique meeting place, where you can enjoy coffee and cakes, a refreshing drink, an archi­ pelago lunch or dinner.

It boasts a fantastic waterside outdoor dining area! Jetty if arriving by water.

visitsundsvall.se provides tips for more activities.

Skatans Café & Krog, Skatan.

carlsvikspiren.se

Färjas Brygga Tynderö Refreshments, lunches and dinners are all on offer at Färjas Brygga, situated alongside the canal before the bridge over to the island of Åstön.

The restaurant serves an archipelago menu, with vegetarian, vegan and lactose-free options available. Good food and drink right beside the water makes for delightful sunny days. farjasbrygga.se

Restaurang Vindhem, Alnö.

Porter Café Åstön Porter Café on the island of Åstön serves good food in an atmospheric setting. Enjoy homemade bread, buffet dishes, seafood and vegetarian options. Accompanied on occasion by performances from local mu­sicians.

Psst! Don’t miss the shrimp buffet (Räkfrossan). portercafe.se

Värdshuset Idyllen Åstön

Salteriet, Junibosand.

Gourmet restaurant in an authentic turn-of-the-century setting on the picturesque

island of Åstön. Serving evening meals with a focus on local ingredients – the sea and nature right around the corner.

Sveriges Bästa Bord, Gourmet, Vägarnas Bästa are just some of the awards it has scooped over the years. vardshusetidyllen.se

Skeppshamns Café Åstön Café with sea views located within Åstön’s nature reserve .

Menu includes sandwiches and pies. You will also find history on display, with memorabilia from when LV5 (Sundsvall Air Defence Regiment) was stationed on Åstön.

26

dstn / Shopping

Locally produced

For all tastes

Buy locally produced goods in Sundsvall.

Delicious or decorative – there’s plenty to choose from when looking for gifts to take home. Made in Medelpad in Stenstaden and Smakrummet at Norra Berget both have well-stocked shelves.

Kronans pepparkakor represent Sundsvall’s oldest food brand. The recipe, which comes from Njurunda, just south of Sundsvall, dates back to the 1920s and small-scale, traditional production is still the order of the day. Deliciously tasty.

Handicraft items are always a valued gift for someone who has everything. A cup featuring the motif of the St Olavsleden trail or a dragon necklace.

Grunsch is an alcoholic drink seasoned with pine needles. Sold at Systembolaget as a special order item. Produced by Skogens Sköna Gröna.

This Medelpad blanket is inspired by the colourful skirts of Medelpad’s traditional regional dress. The blanket is made from 100 % Norwegian wool and is available in three sizes to suit all the family. The Medelpad napkin is a similarly colourful budget alternative.

Surströmming is every true Norrlander’s favourite food come the end of August when the season starts. Buy a tin to take home. If you don’t like the taste, you can buy a tin filled with sweets instead. A guaranteed talking point!

27 A cushion always comes in handy. This one is available to purchase from Made in Medelpad, a shop run by the craftspeople themselves.

Hernö Gin distils the landscape of Norrland into a multi-award-winning gin.

Sold at Systembolaget stores in several different variants.

Bergs Kombucha is a health drink made from fermented tea. Said to be beneficial for the body and available in five different flavours.

Blåtand processes Northern Sweden’s nutritious berries to produce a delicious treat. The factory in Stöde, west of Sundsvall, cooks up gourmet jams for both Swedish and international connoisseurs. Their selection of flavours includes bilberry, cloudberry, lingon­berry and wild raspberry.

Mitt Skafferi produces a number of tasty treats for those looking to spice up their menu. How about a sauce made of rhubarb, apple and curry? Yum is what we say!

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dstn / Visitor attractions

r o f d a e H a e s e th

Refreshing dips,

relaxed beach living and lazy days. When you can’t resist the pull of the sea, we have plenty of coastline to choose from. Here’s a list of some of our favourite bathing spots, from Oxviken in the north to Sörfjärden in the south.

1

Oxviken, Tynderö

2

Smackgrundet, Timrå

3

Slädaviken, Alnö

4

Hartungviken, Alnö

5

Havstoviken, Alnö

6

Tranviken, Alnö

Fine sandy beach with clear water.

Known as the “Canary Islands” owing to its fine sand and rippled sandy bottom.

Sandy beach with shallow water by the Indalsälvens Delta nature reserve.

Barbecue area, outdoor toilet and a 2-kilometre walk out to the bathing area crossing two suspension bridges.

Smackgrundet also has a naturist zone where nude bathing is allowed.

Beach with shallow water, barbecue area, changing cabin, dry toilet and parking for around 20 cars. Open May to August. Bathing water samples are taken.

Hartungviken’s sea bathing area offers a beach with barbecue area, changing room, dry toilet and large open areas for beach volleyball, etc. Open May to August. Bathing water samples are taken.

Sandy beach for sea bathing.

This is not a municipal bathing spot, so bathing water samples are not taken.

Fine sandy beach with shallow water for sea bathing. Known as “Northern Sweden’s Hawaii”. Beach ­volleyball, barbecue area and parking for around 150 cars. The bathing area is open from May to August and bathing water samples are taken.

29 2

Timrå 11

For more beach recommendations, go to: barnsemester. se/medelpad/ Bathing spots

7

Åkeröviken

8

Bänkåsviken, Alnö

Pleasant sea bathing from a sandy beach on the island of Åstön.

Popular sea bathing spot with a sandy beach and shallow water on southern Alnö. Barbecue area, toilets and parking for around 40 cars. Open May to August. Bathing water samples are taken.

9

Fläsian, Sundsvall

Sea bathing from two excellent beaches, a rocky shoreline and campsite close to the city of Sundsvall. Cycle track from the city and Njurunda. Shop, mini-golf, barbecue area, playground equipment, changing room, shower, toilets, jetties and parking for around 50 cars. Open May to September. Bathing water samples are taken.

10

Bredsand, Sundsvall

Sea bathing from a large, pleasant sandy beach, open grassy areas and barbecue facilities. Toilets and parking for around 30 cars. Open May to September. Bathing water samples are taken.

1

Juniskär, Njurunda

Juniskär has a bathing spot with a sandy beach, located alongside the marina.

12

Bergafjärden, Njurunda

Sea bathing from an 800-metrelong sandy beach with shallow water.

Campsite with shop and café, barbecue area, mini-golf, playground and toilets beside the beach. Open May to September, and bathing water samples are taken.

13

Norrviksand, Njurunda

Large sandy beach with plenty of space. Even when it’s busy you can find your own secluded spot. Be especially careful of the undercurrents that may be present. Barbecue area.

3

ALNÖ

Sundsvall

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9

8

16

ÅSTÖN

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10

11

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12 13

NJURUNDA

LÖRUDDEN

BRÄMÖN 14

ÅRSKOGEN 15

Oxsand, Årskogen

Sea bathing from a beautiful white sandy beach. The northern end offers a pleasant, easily accessible and flat rocky area. Small parking area 500 metres from the beach.

7

5

14 Vitsand, Galtström

Bathing spot with sandy beach and attractive rocky shoreline in the vicinity of Galtströms Bruk. Accessible by road.

4

GNARP

16

Sörfjärden, Gnarp

Picturesque and sheltered bathing spot where you can sunbathe and swim with no crowds. The beach is directly adjacent to the fishing village by the river Gnarpsån. Close to campsite, restaurant and ice cream kiosk. Bathing water samples are taken.

Sörfjärden, Gnarp.

30

dstn / Experiences

“A dark shadow appeared above the treetops. An eagle – a golden eagle!”

Lasse Hallberg

Recommended fishing spots in the local area Professional anglers Ljungan downstream of Viforsen.

Numerous attractive rapids and currents for fly fishing and spin fishing for sea trout and grayling.

Bergeforsen, Indalsälven, Timrå.

Large salmon and sea trout. Spin fishing from shore or boat. Also fly fishing. Three different zones. Öjen, Njurunda. Zander. Must have access to a boat.

Game anglers Holmsjön and Stor-Hullsjön.

Very large trout. Most trout are caught by trolling.

Beginners Stödesjön, Stöde. Pike.

Marmen, Attmar. Pike and zander.

Vikarn, Attmar. Pike, zander and perch.

Coastal. Sea trout. The outer side of Alnö, Fläsian and the area around Lörudden.

Torringen, Ånge. Wild char stock.

Whitefish, perch and trout.

Stensjöarna, Ånge. Twelve lakes with char and trout. Fishing camp.

Haverö strömmar, Ånge.

Three interconnected rivers in Ljungan with trout and grayling, among other species. Fishing in the lakes too.

Björköfjärden, Njurunda. Perch.

Sulsjön, Holm. Perch.

Vikarn, Attmar. Perch.

Djupsjön, Kovland. Char and trout.

Knivtjärn, Kovland. Char and rainbow trout.

Ljungan, Viforsen. Grayling fly fishing. Ängomstjärnen, Matfors. Putand-take fishing with rainbow trout.

Dacksjötjärnen, Liden. Stocking of rainbow trout in Backfäbodtjärn and Dacksjötjärn.

Borgsjö, Ånge. Perch and pike.

Families Sidsjön, close to the city centre.

Free fishing. Repopulated rainbow trout and char of catchable size, but also perch and pike. Casting jetties sited all around the lake.

Also an accessible casting jetty

by Dalstugan at the eastern end of the lake.

Tjärnåstjärnarna, Nedansjö.

Stocking of trout, char and rainbow trout.

Björköfjärden, Njurunda. Free fishing. Perch. Fishing from any jetty.

Alnösundet. Free fishing. Perch, pike, roach, whitefish, sea trout

31

Boiled coffee, golden eagles

and the trout in the net

TEXT Lasse Hallberg PHOTO Svanthe Harström

Certain holiday experiences you

I

just want to save and look back on happily when life gets tough.

and ide. Good angling in summer.

Good fishing by the landing stages.

Sundsvallsbron, northern side.

Free fishing. All fish species for angling and spinning.

Storåktjärn, Fränsta. Char and trout. Shelters, etc.

Information about waters, fishing licenses and fish conservation areas can be found at: fiskeisundsvall.se visitsundsvall.se upplevange.nu/gora/aktiviteter/ jakt-och-fiske/

by the fire, a cup of boiled coffee in my hand. My family were asleep in the tent – the children very happy after catching several perch that we then cooked over the embers and ate on crispbread. Their delight echoed loudly around the lake. But now all was quiet. Just the crackling of the fire to disturb the still of the evening.

I knew that there was also the odd trout in the lake, so I sat and kept watch. During the day the large dragonflies had “danced” up and down in the air at the water’s edge. The trout too were aware of them. They had picked off some of the dragonflies as they emerged from their larval skin on the surface of the water before taking to flight. I had seen some rise rings out of the corner of my eye, but had been too distracted by the children’s delight over the perch.

The fly rod was baited with an imitation dragonfly at the end of the leader. One with its wings fully extended from its body. A dead dragonfly fallen into the lake after mating and egg-laying. Large numbers of them now lay on the surface of the water.

The perfect snack for the trout found in this bay.

A dark shadow appeared above the treetops. An eagle – a golden eagle!

LINGERED

32

dstn / Experiences

I

as quickly as it had appeared. Its broad wings carrying it out of sight.

No flapping of wings. Just the wonder of nature. gazed after it for a long time before wading out into the lake, until the water came up to my thighs.

And waited. And waited.

Enjoying the light and balmy summer night.

To my right, maybe 50 metres away, something could be seen making wide ripples in the surface. It came nearer. It wasn’t just one fish approaching. It was as if the mirror-like surface rose up as they cruised forward and opened their mouths for the dead dragonflies to slide down into the mighty jaws.

It was trout!

I counted ten individuals. They were swimming straight towards me!

My heart was pounding. The adrenaline pumping banished my calm and almost meditative state.

Now. No, don’t cast yet. I have to wait. And wait. I would probably only get chance for one cast.

The trout were feeding as if in a trance. Swim, open, swallow. Swim, open, swallow.

They were now thirty metres away.

I went for it and cast. My fly landed gently on the surface.

The trout changed course only slightly, but with a little luck at least one of them would pass my fly.

IT GLIDED AWAY

“Waited. And waited. Enjoying the light and balmy summer night.”

But... it was still on the hook. It dived

“It was trout!

I counted ten individuals. They were swimming straight towards me! My heart was pounding.”

Lasse Hallberg.

The dragonflies were disappearing one

by one. They were now only three metres from mine.

My rod hand trembled. I saw the white inside of the trout’s mouth before it took it. I raised the rod automatically. Felt the weight. It took a second or so, and then everything exploded with a vengeance.

The rod bowed forcefully with the weight. The trout then leapt straight up in the air and landed on its side with an almighty splash.

down to the bottom and flicked its tail vigorously, almost causing me to drop my rod. Then it shot off – heading straight for the middle of the lake. All I could do was hold on. The reel whirled, the line unspooled at lightning speed – first the actual fly line and then the backing line.

100 metres in a few seconds!

The trout stopped. It was tired now.

I was able to slowly reel it in metre by metre. Now I could sense it at the surface.

Silvery, with black and red speckles. A half-metre beauty. My hands shook as I took out my net and lowered it into the water. I had the fish just over the edge of the net when the fly came loose. The trout tipped back into the water!

It stayed very still and looked up.

I looked it in the eye, both of us equally surprised.

The disappointment over a lost fish drained away as the trout gave an elegantly calm flick of its tail and glided away towards darker water.

It was morning. I’d been unaware of everything. One of the children crawled out of the tent and asked drowsily: “Did you catch anything?”

What do you say to that?

“No, but I saw a golden eagle.”

“Oooh. Lucky you.”

“Definitely, it was a totally amazing night.”

33

Spa Vida Vyer at Hotell Södra Berget.

RECHARGE YOUR BATTERIES

With a spa visit TEXT Jennie Zetterqvist PHOTO Hotell Södra Berget/Bert Öhman

A log house, a boathouse or the heights of a city-centre peak. There are countless options when looking for a spa at which to recharge your batteries.

Spa Vida Vyer

Relaxation with a view Around 300 metres above sea level with a sweeping vista of the city stands the newly renovated Spa Vida Vyer. Turkish and Roman steam baths, Japanese-style bathing, dry sauna, hot and cold bathing pools, a jacuzzi and a terrace pool are all included in the spa package. Why not add some pampering treatments to enhance the uplifting feeling of wellbeing? There are even family-friendly spa sessions, reserved for parents and children. sodraberget.se/spa-vida-vyer

Sara’s Bed & Breakfast Cosy luxury in a peaceful log house

The picturesque Ljungandalen valley is the setting for Sara’s Bed & Breakfast – a log house that offers a home-from-home feeling, luxurious relaxation and warm and friendly charm. Take the opportunity to enjoy an overnight stay in undeniably comfy beds. You can book massages and facial treatments on the upper floor at Sara’s Spa .

The terrace boasts a salt-water jacuzzi for your enjoyment. sarasbnb.se

Spa Juniskär

Himlabadet Relax

An archipelago spa experience may sound like a dream. At Spa Juniskär, south of Sundsvall, it becomes reality. The boathouse provides a tranquil setting with access to an infrared sauna and a traditional steam sauna, a cold-water tub and an open-air jacuzzi. Book a massage and combine with a kayak tour if you wish. If arriving by boat, you can moor up at the spa jetty.

While the fun-filled Himlabadet may be a favourite with children, their relaxation zone is sure to be a hit with adults. You can sample a variety of saunas, both hot and cold, indoors and out, try out our experience shower or simply relax by the fire. Our Aufguss sauna sessions provide a fragrant experience for the whole body. Keep an eye out for special family days if you want to bring along children aged ten years and over.

Find harmony in a boathouse setting

spajuniskar.se

Karma Spa

Spa luxury inside and out Karma Spa offers a relaxing time out from everyday life. Here you will find a relaxation zone with an indoor jacuzzi and sauna along with a warming outdoor hot tub on the terrace – open all year round. The range of treatments includes everything from deep-tissue massage to facial treatments. karmaspa.se

Home to fun and relaxation

himlabadet.se/relax

dstn / Guide

Activities

34

Padel …

THE RACQUET SPORT OF PADEL has taken Sweden by

storm, and in Sundsvall/Timrå there are several courts available to book. Don’t miss the outdoor court at Öjestrand Golf Club, south of Sundsvall. Find out more and book: propadelsundsvall.com

A proper shrimp sandwich

totalpadelcenter.se ojestrandgc.se/padelbanan

… or paddling!

Café Tinget, Borgsjö heritage centre.

RIVER, LAKE, STREAM OR COAST. The local area offers

numerous canoeing routes to explore. Pack a picnic for your trip, and your equipment provider will take care of the rest. You can hire canoes and kayaks from the following:

BORGSJÖ HERITAGE CENTRE in

Ånge is a popular visitor attraction in summer. And it could well be the magnificent shrimp sandwiches at Café Tinget that are the biggest draw! Take a seat in the charming outdoor dining area and try them for yourself to see if they live up to their legendary reputation. Naturally there are plenty of other tasty treats on the menu at the old courthouse building (Tingshuset).

Friluftsfrämjandet Sundsvall Friluftsfrämjandet Matfors Ljustorps Bygdegård Holmbygdens Utveckling Stöde Camping Camp Mid Adventure

@cafetinget on Facebook

Summer activities for winter sports enthusiasts Södra Berget.

MISS YOUR SKIING OVER THE SUMMER? Well, there’s no need to

wait for the snow. Friluftscentrum Södra Berget has a tarmac track (Kallaspåret) open for roller-skiing and inline skating. The course is two kilometres long and undulating and is regularly cleared of pine needles and gravel. Adjacent to the track is an exercise area to help improve your technique, an accessible trail for wheelchairs and walkers and a connecting track to the car park and hotel.

35

At dizzying heights

Sundsvall from above

All summer.

SET YOU R SIGHTS H IGH this

summer! A new high ropes course has been constructed alongside the open-air trail at Södra Berget.

A 100-metre-long zipline with sea views is just one highlight of this experience. Adults and children (from 3 years upwards) are all welcome to take on this challenge.

TAKE A LOOK at Sundsvall from above. From 1 July,

you can take rooftop tours led by experienced guides along the first rooftop walkway to be constructed in Europe. At a height of around 25 metres, you will get an interesting new perspective on cultural history on a tour that is never anything but safe.

hogtlagt.se

takvandring.com

Create your own mini tour!

Five courses in five days.

You can create your own mini golf tour, all within the local area!

HUSSBORG GOLF CLUB has an

TIMRÅ GOLF CLUB boasts

18-hole parkland course in a picturesque setting in the grounds of the historic Hussborg estate.

Europe’s most northerly seaside course. A top-class course in a scenic location within the Indalsälven river delta.

SUNDSVALL GOLF CLUB

“SLIGHTLY TOUGHER , much

SÖRFJÄRDEN GOLF CLUB offers

provides play on a parkland course, attractively situated near the mouth of the river Ljungan.

more fun” is the slogan of Öjestrand Golf Club. Very hilly 18-hole woodland course with stunning views of Lake Öjen.

a coastal experience adjacent to a long sandy beach. It’s an 18-hole woodland and parkland course.

sundsvallsgolfklubb.se

hussborggk.se

ojestrandgc.se

timragk.se

sorfjardensgk.se

dstn / Guide

Restaurants

36

Guests have their say When guests have their say, Sundsvall’s restaurants are showered with praise. Take a look at the reviews on TripAdvisor if you’re wondering where to have dinner. Options to whet your appetite from the most highly praised restaurant experiences.

On tripadvisor.se you can search, find out more and leave your own reviews.

World-class Spanish romance Saffran.

“WONDERFULLY cosy

Spanish tapas restaurant.

A favourite! Your taste buds will get to savour the experience of a lifetime.

Romantic spot with wonderful service and staff.

Quite simply world class!”

Saffran’s Spanish tapas bar and restaurant has been attracting diners for many years. The charming setting gets extra points from reviewers.

Luxury fast food, New York style Bastard Burgers.

“LUXURY FAST FOOD! Mmm, so delicious! Contemporary and

friendly spot with good service.” Bastard Burgers serves up quick and delicious burgers, including vegan and vegetarian. Inspired by New York but with its roots deep in Northern Sweden.

Fresh and expertly prepared Tant Anci & Fröken Sara.

“WHETHER YOU want a snack or something

more filling, you are sure to find something suitable and delicious here. Fresh ingredients prepared with care and thoughtfulness.” Tant Anci & Fröken Sara focuses on organic ingredients, offering a menu that is ideal for vegetarians and vegans. Light and bright in the heart of Stenstan.

PHOTO: PETRA BERGGREN

37

Northern Sweden’s best Italian

Fun and first-rate

Dolcetto Trattoria Italiana.

“NORTHERN SWEDEN’S

Restaurang Ping Pong.

Ping Pong.

“WOW. THIS IS GOOD, really good. A fusion of Asian

and Northern Swedenish cuisine – and they do it so well! The staff are brilliant, the premises stylish and modern. A really nice and fun tasting menu. Good vegan options. Go there!”

BEST Italian restaurant.

Fantastic food and really great service. Feels like a truly great trattoria in Verona”. Dolcetto serves Italian delights in a setting reminiscent of an Italian home. Welcoming and popular with the added bonus of excellent wine recommendations.

Beautiful sea views and topquality dishes En Liten Sjökrog, Sörfjärden.

“THE FOOD IS ON A PAR WITH THE LOCATION! You’d have to go a long

way to find more beautiful views. The dishes ordered by myself and my companions were top class.”

Summer restaurant En Liten Sjökrog, south of Sundsvall, gets top marks for both its views and its food.

Be sure to book a table!! It’s a popular spot to eat during the summer.

Coastal flavours

Delightful pub environment in an attractive setting The Bishops Arms.

“A WONDERFUL RESTAURANT in new premises. Beautifully situated

at Vängåvan in Sundsvall, with views towards the evocative fountain in the park. A warm and friendly welcome. Don’t miss their entrecôte and take the opportunity to order an Alnö IPA.” The Bishops Arms is praised for both its food and beer as well as its decor and location in the heart of Stenstan.

Classic Greek cuisine with excellent service Grekiska Grill & Bar. “DELICIOUS FOOD in a tranquil

setting. Friendly staff and speedy service. Classic Greek dishes with delicious flavours.” Grekiska Grill & Bar transports you to the Mediterranean via In-gallerian. Serving both lunches and evening meals.

Read more on p.24-25

dstn / Guide

Accommodation

38

Sara’s Bed & Breakfast.

Luxurious tranquillity AT SARA’S BED & BREAKFAST in Erikslund, Ånge, the

first thing that strikes you as you step through the door is its cosy atmosphere. This log house provides a warm welcome and a beautifully furnished lounge with a crackling fire. One floor up is the suite, with a skylight, tasteful colour scheme and inviting fluffy beds. Here you can take time to rest and recharge. A kitchen and outdoor jacuzzi are available for guest to use.

The Tower suite at Elite Hotel Knaust.

Historic hotel

sarasbnb.se

ELITE HOTEL KNAUST offers four stunning corner

suites in a historic hotel in the heart of Stenstan.

The Tower suite offers an elegant environment with attractive ceiling beams dating from 1891. The bed sits in the middle of the room. Another of the spacious corner suites boasts a loft and a large, light bathroom with views over the rooftops of Sundsvall. The other two suites were added in 2009 and both have a balcony.

Booking a honeymoon suite?

Will it be a summer wedding?

Celebrate your wedding night with a stay in a suite.

elite.se/sundsvall/knaust

Lofty panoramic views HOTELL SÖDRA BERGET offers spacious

suites with their own in-room sauna.

Arrange your own spa evening or visit the hotel’s newly renovated spa on the same floor. Panoramic room windows afford you magnificent, sweeping views across the whole of Sundsvall, the mountains, the forests and the sea. Beautiful in daylight, and atmospheric after nightfall. sodraberget.se

Hotell Södra Berget.

PHOTO: ANNA-CLARA ERIKSSON

39 Fis hi

n. am

es in Ske pp ttag co sh g n

Find tranquillity in a fishing cottage

Wifstavarfs Herrgård.

SKEPPSHAMN is a former fishing vil-

Home of the timber barons

lage out at the tip of Åstön in Timrå.

It’s a spot that now enjoys a peaceful atmosphere, where picturesque nature meets a bare, rocky coastal landscape packed with character.

For those seeking peace and quiet, one of the original fishing cottages here offers the perfect accommodation option. They are all named after fishermen who once lived here.

MEDELPAD HAS A STRONG INDUSTRIAL HISTORY filled

with enterprising characters. The timber barons were successful businessmen and built homes that reflected that success. Fancy staying in one of them? No problem.

Check in at a manor house in Timrå or Ånge and experience a bit of living history.

skeppshamn.com

sorakersherrgard.se wifstavarfsherrgard.se torpshammar.com

Söråkers Herrg ård.

hussborg.com

Simple is beautiful SLEEP WELL at a guesthouse dating

from the 18th century in a setting where the silence is broken only by birdsong. Haverö heritage centre in Ånge offers overnight accommodation in a youth hostel. A simple standard of accommodation that is elevated by the beautiful views of the river Ljungan. Breakfast and bed linen included. hembygd.se/havero

Islands Tree Houses.

Your place in the treetops STAY AMONG THE TREETOPS at Islands Tree Houses. You are promised the

height of relaxation in a newly built tree house, nine metres off the ground.

The two-storey structure is located on an island, surrounded by wilderness, with nature, bathing and fishing on the doorstep. islandstreehouses.com

Haverö heritage centre.

HOLIDAY ON THE HORIZON? Welcome to Quality Hotel Sundsvall.

We provide centrally located accommodation close to shopping and other activities that will keep the whole family entertained. Sundsvall offers numerous excellent bathing beaches and exciting visitor attractions for both young and old.

Don’t forget to visit our popular lobby bar q.bar. We also have an in-house cinema, due to open in July 2020.

Our attractive family rooms have one double bed and a sofa bed to sleep one person. Larger family party?

If so, we offer connecting “teen rooms” for only SEK 500/night.

Find out more on our website: qsundsvall.se or call us on +46 (0)60-16 00 02.

SPECIAL SUMMER RATE!

Double rooms from SEK 799 per night!* * summer rate is valid from 15/6-21/8 2020, limited number of rooms.

Please quote booking code Sommar2020