The Trusted Sewing Source The Trusted Sewing Source
A Sporty-Inspired Pattern Collection
C A P S U L E ST U D I O
ATHLEISURE
CONTENTS
05 A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR 06 SPORTY MIX N’ MATCH 08 FASHION MEETS FUNCTION FABRICS 09 KNIT NOTES 10 SERGER SECRETS 40 THE CONTRIBUTORS
THE COLLECTION 16 BENNETT TANK 20 OLYMPIA SKIRT 24 WOODBINE JOGGERS 28 CARLTON CROPPED HOODIE 32 LEASIDE SWEATER DRESS 36 SHERWOOD TOP
SEW NEWS
CAPSULE STUDIO Volume 2
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www.HusqvarnaViking.com
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In Capsule Studio: Athleisure, you’ll find six patterns that will get you excited about that early morning walk, running those errands or really just lounging (or sewing!) at home. These pieces have been designed with both comfort and style in mind. Knit fabrics, edgy style lines, lots of elastic and ribbing – just some of the amazing features of this collaborative capsule brought to you by some of your favorite pattern designers including Tuesday Stitches, Paprika Patterns, Straight Stitch Designs, and the editors of Sew News magazine. The magic of a cohesive collection is the ability to wear the garments interchangeably and the fabric considerations that these styles lend themselves to. We hope you enjoy sewing up these patterns in your favorite colorway and looking paparazzi-ready on your way into the grocery store. So break out those ballpoint needles, break a sweat and work these athleisure designs into your sewing. Meg Healy
Content Producer for Sew News Magazine
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FROM THE EDITOR
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capsule collection has many benefits, and how you plan them out, from color palettes to pattern selection, can be a fun and creative experience personalized to you! We love the idea of a capsule for the sporty sewist on the go, so that’s why we created this mix n’ match athleisure style collection.
Sporty Mix n’ Match Sew it, wear it, work it, mix it! Dress up or down,these looks are a perfect pick for lounging, work, play or sweat.
AIRPORT ATHLEISURE
Travel can be uncomfortable, but your clothing doesn’t have to be! Walk to the plane like it’s a runway in these disco pants paired with the tank and hoodie for changing temperatures.
WARM UP
Cozy into this style while doing your pre-workout routine and stretches. Then whip them off quick when you’re feeling the heat!
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SPRING CLEANING READY TO SWEAT
Out with the old, in with the new – pair the skirt and tank together for a look you can wear doing your household chores, because you don’t know when somebody will stop by.
Get your run on with the joggers, or simply stroll through town looking shiny chic in this look fit for a model.
LEISURE LUNCH
Haven’t you heard? Long sweaters and thigh high boots are a new go-to style. Elevate the sweater dress with your favorite boots to impress your lunch date.
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Fashion Meets Function Fabric When you’re sewing something that is meant to stretch and move with you comfortably, you naturally reach for stretch fabric. But not all stretch fabric is made equally. For athleisure, you also need to keep in mind function in terms of durability, performance and stretch-ability. Luckily there are many fabrics out there that embody all of these characteristics... and are very fashionable.
to its original shape, making it ideal for athletic apparel. Spandex cannot stand alone and must be blended with other fibers. Host fibers such as cotton, rayon, wool or bamboo allow the spandex fiber to create stable, resilient, versatile fabrics with excellent shape retention. (Used for the silver Woodbine Joggers and Sherwood Top tank version.)
Palette For a capsule wardrobe, you may want to take into consideration a color story or theme – we love using basics like black and white, but with colorful accent pieces with sheen! If you are consistent in the fabric and color/print choices, these garments can all work together so when you are heading out the door to the gym or errands, just grabbing two pieces will result in a matched outfit.
JERSEY: This thin, lightweight and stretchy fabric has a great drape. Jersey has a very smooth, flowing fit and comfy feel ideal for looser fitting garments. Spandex can also be added to jersey fabric, increasing its stretchiness. (Used for the Bennett Tank.)
FABRIC CONSIDERATIONS FRENCH TERRY: This soft and luxurious knit fabric features a smooth and soft face with stretch across the grain for added comfort or ease. With a soft face and looped back, French terry fabric is perfect for sportswear and casual apparel as it is both absorbent and lightweight. (Used for the Sherwood Top and Olympia Skirt.)
Sometimes you have to go unconventional. Sporty silhouettes in fashion fabrics can be a winning combination for style – and the iridescence and durability of taffeta, paired with knit ribbing, is perfect in our Woodbine Joggers. (Used for the Woodbine Joggers.) TAFFETA:
RIBBING: This fabric either comes in tubular form or as yardage and is perfect for finishing hems, necklines and edges of both knit and woven fabrics. Ribbing has a stable stretch that doesn’t ripple when sewn in stretched. It can also be used as an accent or pop of contrast in garments. (Used in the Carlton Cropped Hoodie, Woodbine Joggers, and Leaside Sweater Dress.)
This knit fabric features a brushed back that creates a smooth knitted side and a cozy fleece side with a stretch across the grain. This fabric is the most popular choice for cozy sportswear pieces including hoodies, sweatshirts and tracksuits. (Used for the Carlton Cropped Hoodie and Leaside Sweater Dress.) SWEATSHIRT FLEECE:
SPANDEX: Not your typical ’80s workout fabric, spandex actually refers to the elastic fiber knit or woven into a fabric that makes it stretch. Modern spandex-blend fabrics bring today’s knit garment patterns to their full potential. Spandex’s most significant characteristic is its ability to stretch up to 500 times its length and continually recover
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KNIT NOTES Knit fabrics don’t ravel, so the seam allowance for most knit garment patterns is narrower than for woven garment patterns. You can also adjust the seam allowance width to the exact width of your serging stitch. Use a sewing machine needle suitable for knit fabrics, such
as a stretch or ballpoint needle. Ballpoint needles have a slightly rounded tip that’s designed to slip between the tiny knit loops rather than pierce them, causing tears and snags. Choose a needle size that’s appropriate for the knit fabric weight and thickness.
ELASTIC FINISH Although there is already elasticity in knit fabric, edges often need extra stability. For waistbands, elastics from 1” to 3” wide can be inserted into a casing or serged right to the waistline edge acting as an agent to bring in the waistline, creating gathers and fitting – no closure required! Some elastics can even be decorative themselves and used as-is without a covering fabric. Just make sure the ends are stitched together well. Elastics that are 3/8”-1/2” wide can even be used to finish neckline and cut-out edges. Slightly stretch just the elastic as you sew, then flip to the wrong side of the garment and topstitch in place.
Use all-purpose or polyester thread. These thread types
are strong enough to withstand the fabric stretching without popping. There are also elastic/stretch threads out there that you can use for extra stability (and you don’t even need to use a special stitch on your machine)! use pattern weights rather than pins to secure the patterns and prevent shifting. To prevent stretching and distortion during cutting, make sure the cutting surface supports all of the fabric.
When cutting knit fabrics,
Use a rotary cutter to guarantee clean edges – and save
time. Use a compatible stitch on the machine or serger according
to the knit fabric type and the garment area, and teststitch or serge knit fabric scraps to determine the appropriate stitch and tension settings. When sewing knit fabrics, don’t stretch the fabric as you stitch to prevent wavy or distorted seams.
using steam to help the fabric recover its shape and eliminate waviness after stitching.
Press knit seams
If a knit garment requires interfacing,
choose a knit variety that’s compatible with the fabric weight and hand.
When working with your typical 20% Spandex/ Lycra 80% Nylon/Polyester blend stretch fabric with 4-way stretch, to sew a form-fitting workout apparel garment, make sure that your pattern is about 90% of your body measurement. This is called a 10% pattern reduction for “negative ease”. For more spandex sewing expertise, check out SEW & TELL Podcast Episode 17. 9
Serger Secrets!
Sergers work very well for constructing knit garments, because the stitch is formed from multiple looped threads and includes stretch.
Sergers differ from conventional sewing machines because they have two sets of feed dogs positioned one in front of the other under the throatplate. This allows for a feature called “differential feed,” meaning that the two feed dog sets can be adjusted to feed the fabric through the machine at different speeds. Differential feed is very useful for serging smooth knit seams because the varying speeds help guide the fabric without stretching it or creating a wavy edge.
Make sure you also stretch your test-serged sample. If the needle tensions are off, it can still cause the seam to pop.
Tip: Once your serger is perfectly balanced for a standard knit fabric, take a picture of the tension settings so you know what numbers to adjust to next time.
Test-serge the fabric to make sure all the tensions are balanced. They are balanced when the fabric and loops lay completely flat. If the serging stitch is causing the edge to curl or fold, or the loops are being “tightened” by the other side’s loops, meaning you need to adjust the looper tension settings.
™
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Better Know a Serger 2
1 3A
3B 10 6
Familiarize yourself with the basic parts of a serger so you can start serging full speed ahead.
fabric or seam types. (3A Needles, 3B Loopers) Needles (4): Most sergers allow for up to two needles that are installed side by side. Needles become dull after lots of serging, so they need to be replaced periodically. The needle type depends on the thread and fabric type.
Spool pins (1): These horizontal pins hold the thread cones. A serger has three to five spool pins, depending on how many thread strands it allows. Different serger seam types require different numbers of thread strands. You can unthread one of the needle spools for a 3-thread serger stitch.
Loopers (5): A looper is a small lever inside the serger that has a thread hole (similar to a needle) at the end. Rather than penetrating the fabric, the loopers create thread “loops� around the fabric raw edge. Most sergers have an upper and lower looper that move in tandem with the needles to form the seam.
Thread guides (2): These guides allow the threads to flow smoothly through the machine. Most sergers include a threading guide (often color-coded) to show you the order in which to thread the needles and loopers. Some machines (like this one) have air threading!
Hand wheel (6): The hand wheel allows you to slowly operate the serger by hand for extra control.
Tension dials (3): The tension dials control the tension of each needle and/or looper. Refer to the serger manual to determine the appropriate tension settings for various
Presser foot (7): The presser foot applies downward pressure as you serge to help guide the fabric. When 11
Better Know a Serger -
(CONTINUED)
you’re serging, the presser foot should always be in the down position. Every serger comes with a standard presser foot that works for most basic sewing tasks. Some sergers also come with a few additional presser feet designed especially for other tasks, such as attaching trim or inserting elastic. Your serger dealer or manufacturer carries many other useful specialty feet to purchase separately. Knife (8): As the fabric moves through the machine, the knife trims away the seam allowance before the needles form the seam. For most serger projects, a 1⁄4” seam allowance is appropriate. The knife can also be disengaged if needed.
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Throatplate and Feed Dogs (9): The throatplate is the removable metal plate that protects the feed dogs. The small metal bars move back and forth, pulling or “feeding” the fabric under the presser foot as you serge.
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Adjustment Knobs (10): In addition to the hand wheel, there will be a secondary “wheel” that is notched where you can adjust the differential feed and/or stitch length.
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Foot Pedal: This pedal controls the serger’s motor, so the harder you press, the faster it goes. It rests on the floor and is attached to the serger by a cord.
Enjoy the freedom of the air threading system on the HUSQVARNA® VIKING® AMBER™ Air S | 400 overlock machine in addition to 15 stitches and even serging to make sewing your knit garment a success!
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Size Chart XS
S
M
L
XL
1X
2X
3X
Bust
33”
351/2”
38”
401/2”
43”
451/2”
48”
501/2”
Waist
241/2”
27”
291/2”
32”
341/2”
37”
391/2”
42”
35”
371/2”
40”
421/2”
45”
471/2”
50”
521/2”
Hip
THE PATTERNS
Bennett Tank
Olympia Skirt Woodbine Joggers
Sherwood Top
Carlton Cropped Hoodie Leaside Sweater Dress 13
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THE COLLECTION
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BENNETT TANK 16
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BENNETT TANK
SUPPLIES
• Bennett Tank pattern • Knit fabric (such as cotton Lycra, Lycra spandex or jersey)
Hit the gym in style with this easy athletic tank with cute back cutout.
• Fusible interfacing & 1/2”-wide clear elastic (amount according to pattern measurements)
BY KIMBERLY PAYNE
• All-purpose thread
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• Ballpoint needle • Serger (optional)
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OLYMPIA SKIRT 21
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SUPPLIES • Olympia Skirt pattern
OLYMPIA SKIRT Stitch a comfortable French terry skirt that’s perfect for a leisurely stroll or post-workout errands.
• 1 to 11/2 yards of French terry fabric • 1/2 yard of contrasting woven fabric (such as linen or linen blend) • 11/2”-wide elastic (amount according to your waist measurement) • 11/2 yards of cording • Large safety pin
BY AMANDA CARESTIO
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• Removable fabric marker • Ballpoint needle • Edgestitch foot (optional) • Serger (optional) • Interfacing (optional)
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• Tension Toggle (optional)
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WOODBINE JOGGERS
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SUPPLIES • Woodbine Joggers pattern
WOODBINE JOGGERS
• 2 yards knit or woven iridescent fabric (such as metallic spandex, interlock, nylon or taffeta) • 1/2 yard of knit ribbing • 1 yard of 1”-wide elastic
Create jogger pants with knee pleating and a faux drawstring for an easy and chic athletic look. BY MEG HEALY
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• 3”-wide elastic (amount according to your waist measurement) • Drawstring or shoelace (amount according to the desired length; see “Source.”) • Matching all-purpose thread • Ballpoint needle (for knit fabric) or universal needle (for woven fabric) • Removable fabric marker
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• Serger (optional)
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CARLTON CROPPED HOODIE
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CARLTON CROPPED HOODIE Whether heading to the gym or a quick outing around town, toss on a comfy and chic colorblocked pullover hoodie. BY ERIN WEISBART
SUPPLIES
• Carlton Cropped Hoodie pattern • 2/3 yard of dark-colored knit fabric (such as cotton jersey, interlock or sweatshirt fleece) • 1 yard each of mediumcolored & light-colored knit fabric
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• 1/3 yard of knit ribbing • Matching all-purpose thread • Ballpoint needle
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LEASIDE SWEATER DRESS
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LEASIDE SWEATER DRESS This sweater dress is proof you don’t have to choose between comfort and style. The French terry knit dress has side pockets with ribbing detail and flattering balloon sleeves for a sporty yet chic vibe. BY LISA KIEVITS
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SUPPLIES
• Leaside Sweater Dress pattern • 2 yards of French terry fabric with brushed back & 20-30% stretch • 3/4 yard of 1x1 or 2x2 knit ribbing
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• Matching all-purpose thread • Ballpoint needle
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SHERWOOD TOP 37
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SUPPLIES • Sherwood Top pattern
SHERWOOD TOP
• 11/4 yards knit fabric (such as jersey, Lycra, interlock or French terry) • Two 1/2”x7” fusible interfacing strips • 7” invisible zipper • 5” length of 1/4”-wide elastic
Update your basic athleisure wardrobe with a stylish half-zip pullover featuring a flattering gathered front. BY MEG HEALY
• Ballpoint & twin machine needles • Matching all-purpose thread
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• Presser feet: invisible zipper & zipper • Pressing cloth • Serger (optional)
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• Coverstitch machine (optional)
THE CONTRIBUTORS
(Bennett Tank) is the sewist, pattern design and all-around one-woman show at Straight Stitch Designs. When she isn’t sewing, she enjoys spending time with her husband and two kids in Seattle, WA. straightstitchdesigns.com. KIMBERLY PAYNE
AMANDA CARESTIO
(Olympia Skirt) serves as the Editor-in-Chief of Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery magazine and co-host of the Sew & Tell Podcast.Amanda loves elastic-waist pants and a good basic tee in black... with the occasional pop of neutral. When she’s not sewing, reading a book or shopping for fabric or clogs online, Amanda enjoys exploring the Colorado landscape with her husband and three young kids (and dog and cat). You can find her sewn creations at @popofneutral on Instagram. (Woodbine Joggers & Sherwood Top) had the urge to sew and create at a young age and eventually led her to study Fashion Design in both London, Canada and NYC. While interning for Vera Wang and BurdaStyle during her studies, she was encouraged to accept a full-time position with BurdaStyle where she served as the online editor and face of BurdaStyle.com for nearly 7 years, inspiring and teaching sewists around the world. Meg now is a content creator for Sew Daily which includes titles such as Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery magazines while also continuing to MEG HEALY
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develop, film and instruct online sewing videos. She shares her sewing journey on the Sew & Tell podcast, www.megsayssew.com and on her @meg.says.sew Instagram account. When not sewing, Meg enjoys spending time with her husband going to art galleries, cycling, and cuddling their giant pet rabbit. (Leaside Sweater Dress) defines herself as a maker more than a sewist. Besides being the creator of sewing patterns, she cannot help herself but try out all the crafts and DIY all the things. She lives on a small homestead in France with her husband, two girls and a bunch of animals paprikapatterns.com or at @paprikapatterns on Instagram. LISA KIEVITS
(Carlton Cropped Hoodie) believes that every day is another chance to play dress up. She promotes inclusivity, representation, self-love, and self-expression t hrough sewing. She publishes patterns as Tuesday Stitches. tuesdaystitches.com ERIN WEISBART
Thank you for browsing our second Capsule Studio collection. We hope you love the patterns as much as we do! You can purchase the entire pattern collection here. Or click any one of the Buy It Now buttons, and you’ll be directed to our store page for purchase. CHECK OUT CAPSULE STUDIO: WELL TRAVELED HERE! EDITORIAL
BUSINESS
EDITOR IN CHIEF Amanda Carestio
DIRECTOR OF CONTENT Tiffany Warble
MANAGING EDITOR Kate Zaynard
GROUP ART DIRECTOR Emily Simpson
TECHNICAL EDITOR Kim Saba
MEDIA SALES DIRECTOR Julie MacDonald
ONLINE EDITOR Andrea Lotz CONTENT PRODUCER Meg Healy
MARKETING & ADVERTISING MARKETING MANAGER, ECOMMERCE Whitney Dorband AD TRAFFICKER Lori Hauser ADVERTISING MANAGER Mary-Evelyn Dalton
ART ART DIRECTOR Jessica Hughes
PEAK MEDIA PROPERTIES CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Gregory J. Osberg SVP, GROUP PUBLISHER David Pyle SVP, CONSUMER MARKETING Paula Backer VP, FINANCE Jordan Bohrer VP, DIGITAL Melanie Darienzo VP, PRODUCT AND STRATEGY Josiah Klebaner VP, PRODUCT MANAGEMENT Pat Fitzgerald
PHOTOGRAPHY Molly Stevenson ILLUSTRATOR Nathan Ziebarth PHOTO STYLIST Emily Smoot HAIR & MAKEUP Beauty on Location Studio
Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please email sewnews@emailcustomerservice.com. For advertising information: Mary-Evelyn Dalton at maryeveholder@comcast.net. For editorial inquiries: write to 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5596. Customer Service: For questions about purchases made on the website https://www.interweave.com/contact-us.
