The Trusted Sewing Source The Trusted Sewing Source
A Texture-Inspired Cozy Pattern Collection
C A P S U L E ST U D I O
PLUSH
CONTENTS
05 A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR 06 PLAID MIX N’ MATCH 08 SEWING COZY 09 FAUX FUR FUN 38 THE CONTRIBUTORS
THE COLLECTION 14 MOONSTONE JUMPSUIT 18 BALA WRAP TOP 22 WHISTLER BUCKET BAG 26 BANFF DOLMAN SWEATER 30 TREMBLANT PLEATED PANTS 34 KAWARTHA CARDI JACKET
SEW NEWS
CAPSULE STUDIO Volume 3
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BEYOND EPIC
™
Sewing and Embroidery Machine
HUSQVARNA® VIKING ® DESIGNER EPIC ™ 2 sewing and embroidery machine will take you beyond what youthought possible with the smartest technology in the home sewing machine industry.* Welcome to our world of sewing! Find a dealer near you at husqvarnaviking.com *When compared to Brother Luminaire XP1, Bernina 880 Plus, Janome Memory Craft 15000. DESIGNER EPIC and VIKING are trademarks of KSIN Luxembourg II, S.a.r.l. HUSQVARNA and the "H" Crown Device are trademarks of Husqvarna AB and are used under license. © 2019 KSIN Luxembourg II, S.a.r.l. All rights reserved.
In Capsule Studio: Plush, you’ll find six patterns that mix and match together with comfortable silhouettes in cushy and textured fabrics like wool, Sherpa, sweater knit, double gauze, jersey and faux fur. We focused on a wearable, intermixable collection of patterns that fit a wide range of styles and body types. The oversized, roomy shapes are accessible to beginner sewists but advanced sewists will love the on-trend fabrications these fashions lend themselves to. Think cozy for the everyday: at home or out and about. Jumpsuits, pleats, shawl collars, and even a cozy purse – these are just some of the inspiring projects you’ll find in a collection designed by some of your favorite pattern designers, including Bianca Springer from @thanksimadethem, Michele Matsumoto of @winmichele, and the editors of Sew News magazine. Cuddle up to your sewing machine this season and make all these pieces in your favorite color palette. Meg Healy
Content Producer for Sew News Magazine 5
FROM THE EDITOR
C
apsules are great to sew for an upcoming season. Get ready for sweater weather with Capsule Studio: Plush. With this pattern collection, it’s easy to infuse your wardrobe with luxurious textures and high-end looks while stretching your sewing skills with dimensional fabrics that beg to be touched.
Plaid Mix n’ Match The best part of creating a capsule collection is selecting a color scheme. Using one main fabric in several pieces means the pieces can all be worn together. Here are some options on how to create a cozy chic plaid suit, style a faux fur bag and stitch a sweater/pant combo that will get you through fall sweater weather in style. We love plaid, as it is classic and can be used for a multitude of garments. Whether just a touch of plaid or head-to-toe, it’s always a good choice for the cooler months.
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The Kawartha Cardi Jacket, in solid and plaid wool, is a solid pairing with the Whistler Bucket Bag for an on-the-go look. Wear with jeans and fashion sneakers for an effortless streetstyle look.
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Block print on the top, a lot of print on the bottom! We love the Banff Dolman Sweater with the Tremblant Pleated Pants – especially when the colors complement each other. Pair with dangling earrings with this look because of the simple but sharp lines in the sweater.
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This is what you should think of when you hear “Plaid Suit” – a chic pairing of the Kawartha Cardi Jacket and Tremblant Pleated Pants. On the street or at the office, this look will be sure to show off both your sewing and fashion skills.
Pendleton - bringing you crafty news and inspo from the Portland Oregon Woolen Mill Store. They have the world’s largest selection of Pendleton fabrics with more than 300 rolls hanging, including apparel-weight wool such as wool worsted and wool shirting. The width varies from 54-60 inches wide. WOOLENMILL.STORE/FABRIC 7
Sewing Cozy When you think cozy, you think texture, touch and feel – and certain fabrics lend themselves more to those characteristics. But not to worry. Specialty fabric doesn’t necessarily mean it’s more difficult to sew – you just need to make a few accommodations.
MINKY: A super soft, almost cloud-like luxurious fabric
A woven, breathable, soft and lightweight fabric. Double gauze is made from two layers of gauze, a light fabric with an open weave, that are basted together every inch. This basting forms a subtle grid over the entire fabric and allows the two layers to act as one and soften with every wash. Use a sharp 70 or 80 needle to avoid snags, shorten the stitch length to reduce tension, and use all the steam when pressing. DOUBLE GAUZE:
that is a variety of fleece. It comes in every color and print under the rainbow and usually has a knit backing with 2-way stretch along the crossgrain. So with that in mind, a stretch size 90 needle is the go-to choice along with a walking foot. You’ll also want to lengthen your stitch length for sewing together. Different levels of minky fabric with longer and thicker piles can also create different textures like Sherpa!
WOOL: A fabric not just for blankets! Apparel-weight wools are super luxurious, drapey and almost buttery to sew with – did we mention that it is super warm? Wool is very versatile too, and, if the weight is right, it can be used for everything from pants, to jackets and bags. Use a size 90 regular sewing machine needle and also try out different hemming techniques like fusible tape and hand stitching!
A fabric that looks just as good as the real thing! Faux furs come in many different varieties including color, pile length and stretch. Avoid cutting this fabric with scissors, use a smaller seam allowance and opt for a thicker machine needle such as a size 100 universal. See more faux fur tips on the next page. FAUX FUR:
The perfect fabric for a sewist who doesn’t like to knit. Sweater knits can be made from wool, cotton or synthetic in various open and closed knit designs. When sewing, keep the fabric as flat and unstretched as possible, and use a stretch needle such as a size 80 ballpoint. Don’t sew with as much pressure and lengthen your stitch length slightly while using a stretch stitch. SWEATER KNIT:
Join the hosts of the Sew & Tell podcast for a fun conversation on sewing all things cozy in episode 26. They have snuggled up into winter sewing and talking about the fabrics and patterns to use for the coziest possible me-mades. Listen at: SEWDAILY.COM/SEWANDTELL 8
Faux Fur Fun Faux fur has a brilliant and luxurious effect to it, especially when sewing it for a new look. But it isn’t as simple to sew without some special considerations and tips. We love faux fur for everything from bags to scrunchies! Never discard any scrap of fur, because even little pieces can have a wow effect. THE BASICS
• Use a 1/4” to 1/2” seam allowance, and use a walking foot for best results. • Use 110 or 120 size needle depending on fur and chosen backing.
Shannon Fabrics makes the world a softer place and is a go-to for all things faux fur. SHANNONFABRICS.COM
• Increase to 3.5mm stitch length. • Sew with a straight stitch or very slight zigzag using polyester or poly-cotton blended thread.
• After sewing a seam, you can also use a comb to remove any caught furs in the seam so it is invisible.
CUTTING
• Lay fabric on the cutting surface wrong side up. Be sure the fur is going in the same direction and laying smooth and flat. (Sliding a yardstick under the fabric will get the fibers going the right way.)
• Knitted fur backings can actually be sewn with a “hinge seam,” so the fur is cut without seam allowances and sewn edge to edge with a zigzag stitch. Woven furs need a traditional seam allowance sewing treatment.
• Don’t cut on the fold – always just cut through one layer. • Cut through backing only with scissors or a knife (the sharper, the better) and pull apart. Never cut the fur. You don’t want to give your fabric a haircut!
Best tip of all: Sewing fur can make a beginner look like a professional. The texture, especially on long- haired furs, can hide a lot!
• Sew with a straight stitch or very slight zigzag using polyester or poly-cotton blended thread. With advanced cozy fabrics and faux fur to sew with, don’t also miss out on the benefits of modern sewing technology. HUSQVARNA® VIKING® OPAL™ 670 computerized sewing machine is extra-efficient with loads of built-in assistance to change the way you sew for the better so you can easily switch settings for different fabrics with ease!.
PINNING AND SEWING
• For longer fur: comb fibers away from edge and hold in place with painter’s tape. Combing removes some of the loose fibers and makes it easier to tape them out of seam allowance.
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Size Chart XS
S
M
L
XL
2X
3X
4X
Bust
33”
351/2”
38”
401/2”
43”
451/2”
48”
501/2”
Waist
241/2”
27”
291/2”
32”
341/2”
37”
391/2”
42”
35”
371/2”
40”
421/2”
45”
471/2”
50”
521/2”
Hip
5X
6X
53” 551/2” 441/2” 47” 55” 571/2”
7X 58” 491/2” 60”
Banff Dolman Sweater
FRONT
BACK
Tremblant Pleated Pants
THE PATTERNS
B
Moonstone Jumpsuit
Kawartha Cardi Jacket FRONT
A
BACK
Bala Wrap Top
Whistler Bucket Bag 10
If you want to sew with the best, sew with Pendleton wool. Available in a variety of weights and patterns, Pendleton wool is perfect for tops and bottoms, like the cardigan and pants featured here, and for home decor pieces.
SEE OUR SELECTION AT WOOLENMILL.STORE
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THE COLLECTION
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MOONSTONE JUMPSUIT 14
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Comes with two variations of pockets. Opt for a full jumpsuit with a patch pocket, or one with a waistline seam and inseam pocket that makes it easy for length adjustments.
MOONSTONE JUMPSUIT
SUPPLIES
• Moonstone Jumpsuit pattern (pieces A, B, C, F & G) • 3½ - 4 yards of mediumweight sweater knit fabric with 50% stretch & good recovery • Matching all-purpose thread
Choose from two different knit jumpsuit versions for an effortlessly stylish look. BUY IT NOW
BY MICHELE MATSUMOTO
• Needles: Ballpoint or stretch & twin (optional) • Serger (optional) • Cover stitch machine (optional)
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BALA WRAP TOP 19
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BALA WRAP TOP Keep it casual yet timelessly stylish with a double-gauze wrap top featuring oversized sleeve cuffs. BY MEG HEALY
BUY IT NOW
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SUPPLIES • Bala Wrap Top pattern • 11/2 yards of lightweight woven fabric (such as double gauze) • Matching all-purpose thread • Size 80/12 universal needle • Point turner (optional) • Serger (optional)
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WHISTLER BUCKET BAG
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SUPPLIES • Whistler Bucket Bag pattern
WHISTLER BUCKET BAG
• 3/8 yard each of faux fur & fusible foam • 1/2 yard of satin fabric • 1/4 yard of cork fabric • 1/3 yard of lightweight fusible interfacing • 2 yards of 1”-wide cork strapping • 1 yard of braided cording
Add a trendy statement to any look with a faux-fur bucket bag with drawstring closure. Plus, choose BUY IT from a removable cork fabric handle or strap NOW option.
• Two 1”-wide D-rings • Four 1”-wide swivel claps • 1”-wide slide adjuster • Removable fabric marker • Binding clips • Microtex needle
BY BIANCA SPRINGER
• Walking foot • Clear packing tape 25
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BANFF DOLMAN SWEATER 27
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SUPPLIES
BANFF DOLMAN SWEATER Quickly stitch a comfy dolman-sleeve sweater for a chic fall look. The panel seam allows for stunning color blocking as well!
• Banff Dolman Sweater pattern • 2 yards of mediumweight sweater knit fabric with 50% stretch • 1/3 yard of contrasting mediumweight sweater knit fabric with same stretch as main fabric
BUY IT NOW
• Matching all-purpose thread • Needles: Ballpoint or stretch & twin
BY MICHELE MATSUMOTO 29
• Serger (optional)
TREMBLANT PLEATED PANTS
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SUPPLIES
• Tremblant Pleated Pants pattern
TREMBLANT PLEATED PANTS
• 21/2 to 3 yards of wool or bottomweight pants fabric (more if matching plaids)
With an elastic back waistband, deep pleats, tapered leg and inseam pockets, the Tremblant Pleated Pants combine wearable ease with the look of BUY IT tailored pants. Sew them in plaid wool for an NOW elegant statement pant or other bottomweight fabric for a wardrobe workhorse.
• Matching all-purpose thread
BY AMANDA CARESTIO 33
• 1/4 yard of lightweight woven fabric • 11/2”-wide elastic (amount according to measurements)
• Safety pin or bodkin • Hand sewing needle • Interfacing (optional) • Serger (optional)
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KAWARTHA CARDI JACKET
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KAWARTHA CARDI JACKET
SUPPLIES • Kawartha Cardi Jacket pattern • 3 yards of Sherpa knit fabric or apparel weight wool • Matching all-purpose thread
Create a chic, but easy-sew jacket with a shawl collar in either cozy Sherpa fleece with fur hook closure, or classic wool for a relaxed blazer. BUY IT NOW
BY MEG HEALY
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• Needles: hand sewing & size 90/14 ballpoint • Fur hook & eye
THE CONTRIBUTORS
AMANDA CARESTIO
(Tremblant Pleated Pants) serves as the Editor-in-Chief of Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery magazine and co-host of the Sew & Tell Podcast. Amanda loves elastic-waist pants and a good basic tee in black... with the occasional pop of neutral. When she’s not sewing, reading a book or shopping for fabric or clogs online, Amanda enjoys exploring the Colorado landscape with her husband and three young kids (and dog and cat). You can find her sewn creations at @popofneutral on Instagram. (Whistler Bucket Bag) had is a native of The Bahamas who learned to sew at her mother’s side. She currently lives in Pearland TX. with her family who provide endless creative inspiration and motivation for textile play and design. Bianca is a member of Black Makers Matter and is passionate about increasing the acknowledgement and representation of minority creatives in the craft industry. Instagram: @thanksimadethem Blog: Thanksimadethem.blogspot.com BIANCA SPRINGER
(Kawartha Cardi Jacket & Bala Wrap Top) had the urge to sew and create at a young age and eventually led her to study Fashion Design in both London, Canada and NYC. While interning for Vera Wang and BurdaStyle during her studies, she was encouraged to accept a full-time position with BurdaStyle where she served as the online editor MEG HEALY
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and face of BurdaStyle.com for nearly 7 years. Meg now is a content producer for Sew Daily which includes titles such as Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery magazines while also continuing to develop, film and instruct online sewing videos for BurdaStyle Academy and Sew Daily TV. She shares her sewing journey on the Sew & Tell podcast and through her Instagram @meg.says.sew. When not sewing, Meg enjoys spending time with her husband, going to art galleries, cycling and cuddling their giant pet rabbit. MICHELE MATSUMOTO (Moonstone Jumpsuit & Banff Dolman Sweater) is a wife, mother and passionate garment sewer from the desert landscapes of Arizona. Her earliest memories of sewing were learning how to make simple craft things on her mother’s sewing machine at a young age. Having a deep passion for sewing, Michele makes it a mission to explore all aspects of garment construction. She enrolled as a patternmaking student at her local college in her mid 30s. Her focus now is to push the limits of pattern-making textbooks and help inspire other sewists in their own fit journey.
Thank you for browsing our third Capsule Studio collection.
We hope you love the patterns as much as we do!
CHECK OUT CAPSULE STUDIO: ATHLEISURE HERE! EDITORIAL
BUSINESS
EDITOR IN CHIEF Amanda Carestio
DIRECTOR OF CONTENT Tiffany Warble
MANAGING EDITOR Kate Zaynard
GROUP ART DIRECTOR Emily Simpson
TECHNICAL EDITOR Kim Saba
MEDIA SALES DIRECTOR Julie MacDonald
ONLINE EDITOR Andrea Lotz CONTENT PRODUCER Meg Healy
MARKETING & ADVERTISING MARKETING MANAGER, ECOMMERCE Nathalie Martinez
PEAK MEDIA PROPERTIES CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Gregory J. Osberg SVP, CONSUMER MARKETING Paula Backer VP, FINANCE Jordan Bohrer
AD TRAFFICKER Lori Hauser ADVERTISING MANAGER Mary-Evelyn Dalton
VP, DIGITAL Melanie Darienzo VP, PRODUCT AND STRATEGY Josiah Klebaner
ART SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Genevieve Stafford Hook ART DIRECTOR Jessica Hughes PHOTOGRAPHY Molly Stevenson ILLUSTRATOR Nathan Ziebarth PHOTO STYLIST Emily Smoot
Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please contact us via the form on our website. For advertising information: email Mary-Evelyn Dalton at maryeveholder@comcast.net. For editorial inquiries: write to 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5596. Customer Service: For questions about purchases made on the website, please visit www.sewdaily.com and click the Contact Us button at the bottom of the page..