Loom Theory 4-Shaft 2018

Yarn photo

HANDWOVEN

LOOM THEORY four-shaft scarf collection

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CONTENTS LOOM THEORY

• volume I

05 A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

by Susan E. Horton

THE COLLECTION 06 BEAD LENO SCARF Deanna Deeds 12 TAKE IT EASY! Pattie Graver 18 BUBBLES SHAWL Elisabeth Hill 24 SILK WALL OF TROY Laura Fry with Katrina King 30 SWEDISH LACE SCARF Suzie Liles 36 TURNABOUT SCARF Sarah Jackson 42 JIN SILK SCARF Bonnie Inouye with Robin Wilton

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A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Welcome to Loom Theory, a new digital lookbook for weavers and a special publication of Handwoven magazine.

For a while now, I have been dreaming of putting together a special collection of high-end scarves woven using luxury yarns, with designs that specifically highlighted the unique qualities of those yarns. With a little planning and a lot of PHOTO BY GEORGE BOE help from some talented designers and weavers, I was able to make my dream a reality, and I am completely delighted with the results!

Loom Theory: Four-Shaft Scarf Collection is the first of three scarf lookbooks planned for 2018. In this one, we celebrate fine silk, wool, Tencel, and linen yarns in four-shaft patterns. Some of our favorite designers used their expertise and experience to design scarves that are not only beautiful because of the yarns they are woven in but also interesting because of the weave structures used.

You can purchase the pattern collection while browsing the lookbook—just find the Purchase Now button on every design-information page to be directed to our store page, where you can download the entire collection of patterns in a bundle.

I’m especially excited about the included WIF downloads that show every warp end and every pick of the scarves. You can use almost any weaving software to open and use the WIFs. The luscious yarns in this lookbook are courtesy of Jagger Spun, Vävstuga, Cotton Clouds, WEBS, Glimåkra USA, Treenway Silks, and Halcyon Yarn. The designers are Deanna Deeds, Elisabeth Hill, Sarah Jackson, Pattie Graver, Suzie Liles, Bonnie Inouye, and Laura Fry. Two weavers, Robin Wilton and Katrina King, also helped assemble the collection.

I think you are going to love this wonderful collection of luxurious scarves!

Weave well,

Projects and information are for inspiration and p ­ ersonal use only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please email handwoven@interweave.com. Handwoven does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, p ­ roducts, services, or views advertised in Handwoven. Nor does Handwoven evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in e ­ valu­ating the advertisers, products, services, and views a ­ dvertised in Handwoven.

For advertising information, call Stephanie Griess at (877) 613-4630 or email sales@fwmedia.com.

For editorial inquiries, call (800) 272-2193, email handwoven@interweave.com, or write to 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5576.

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BEAD LENO SCARF DEANNA DEEDS

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Alternate colorway

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Zephyr Wool Silk

50% Wool 50% Silk Blend Available in Lace and Worsted Weights

Springvale, Maine USA

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Yarn photo JAGGER SPUN YARNS Weavers love Jagger Spun yarns, and it’s easy to understand why. The company’s 18/2 Zephyr is a delicious blend of 50% Merino wool and 50% tussah silk that has the exquisite softness of Merino and a beautiful sheen that can only come from silk. Super Lamb is 100% superwash Merino that’s perfect for weaving up lightweight projects without worrying about fulling. Kokadjo, a blend of 90% superwash wool and 10% silk, is perhaps better known to knitters but is equally delightful for weaving. We especially love all the variegated colorways available.

BEAD LENO SCARF DEANNA DEEDS For this project, I wanted to combine silk and wool fibers into a lightweight and drapable, yet soft and warm scarf. A leno weave structure

Shown here: Super Lamb (Mallard), Zephyr (Pewter), Kokadjo (Riverwalk), Zephyr (Aegean Blue)

seemed just right for the project, although I was

ZEPHYR

form in the structure. Jagger Spun’s yarns per-

FIBER: Merino wool/50% tussah silk YARDAGE: 5,040 yd per 1 lb cone; 630 yd per 2 oz cone; 550 yd per 1.75 oz reeled hank RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–20; plain weave–24; twill–30 epi 2/24 COLORWAYS: 48 2/24 SUPER LAMB

FIBER: 100% superwash Merino YARDAGE: 5,960 yd per 1 lb cone RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–20; plain weave–24; twill–30 epi COLORWAYS: 29 KOKADJO

FIBER: 90% superwash wool/10% silk YARDAGE: 435 yd per 100 g skein; 218 yd per 50 g skein RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–12; plain weave–15; twill–20 epi COLORWAYS: 19

unsure of how wool and silk fibers would performed wonderfully, providing warmth to a lacy allover pattern. Give patterned bead leno a try; I think you’ll love it!

STRUCTURE Bead leno.

EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 12" weaving width; 6- or 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle.

YARNS Jagger Spun 2/24 Super Lamb (100% superwash wool, 5,960 yd/lb). Jagger Spun Zephyr (50% wool/50% silk,

PURCHASE NOW

(WIF included with download)

5,040 yd/lb). Jagger Spun Kokadjo (90% superwash wool/10% silk, 1,960 yd/lb.

OTHER SUPPLIES 6/0 seed beads, 72; 1.15 mm/#10 crochet hook or size to fit bead hole.

FINISHED SIZE 9½" x 68" with 5½" fringe.

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TAKE IT EASY! PATTIE GRAVER

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Yarn photo WEBS VALLEY YARNS Valley Yarns’ Colrain Lace, a perfect blend of Merino wool and Tencel, is the best of both worlds: touchably soft with just a hint of shimmer. This laceweight yarn is perfect for weaving lightweight scarves, shawls, and anything else you’d want to wear directly on the skin. The warmth of the Merino and the cool crispness of the Tencel gives garments woven from Colrain Lace a longer wearing season than either fiber on its own. We love Colrain Lace’s vibrant colorways—especially the bold jewel tones.

Shown here: Navy, Gray Olive, and Navajo Red FIBER: 50% Merino wool/50% Tencel YARDAGE: 1,540 yd per 8.8 oz cone RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–15; plain weave–18; twill–20 epi COLORWAYS: 22

TAKE IT EASY! PATTIE GRAVER There are probably times in your weaving life when you want to weave a scarf that is quick and easy, and this simple, straightforward scarf may be the perfect solution. With this project, you can expect relaxing and trouble-free weaving, allowing you the opportunity to finesse skills such as throwing the shuttle, getting an even beat, and weaving neat selvedges.

STRUCTURE Twill.

EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 10" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 2 bobbins.

PURCHASE NOW

(WIF included with download)

YARNS 2/10 Colrain Lace (50% Merino/50% Tencel; 2,800 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS).

FINISHED SIZE 7¾" x 66" with 5" fringe.

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BUBBLES SHAWL ELISABETH HILL

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Yarn photo VÄVSTUGA YARNS Borgs Mora is a worsted 20/2 wool that is soft to the touch. Spun from long-stapled wool, Mora is extra strong, making it a perfect candidate for both warp and weft.

It finishes without fulling, so you can wetfinish your beautiful lightweight scarves and shawls without worrying about them becoming a piece of felt. Mora combines beautifully with Fårö, Borgs’s singles wool yarn. Unlike Mora, Fårö felts beautifully, adding texture and and visual interest to a backdrop of Mora. It can also be used on its own in krokbragd and tapestry.

BUBBLES SHAWL ELISABETH HILL I based this shawl on a sample in The Virginia West Swatch Book by Virginia West. Although the sample was woven in a thick, slubby rayon blend, I was immediately curious to see what

Shown here: Mora (Salmon), Fårö (Cornflower), Mora (Copper)

would happen if it was woven in fine wool. To

MORA

for the two main colors and a fulling singles,

FIBER: 100% wool YARDAGE: 1,039 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–16; plain weave–20; twill–24 epi COLORWAYS: 51 FÅRÖ

FIBER: 100% wool PUT-UP: 656 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–15; plain weave–18; twill–20 epi COLORWAYS: 74

maximize deflection, I chose 20/2 Mora wool Fårö, for the outline threads. Both yarns come in great colors, and when sett at 20 ends per inch, the result is a light, airy, warm fabric.

STRUCTURE Deflected doubleweave.

OTHER SUPPLIES Wool wash.

EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 21" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 3 shuttles; 3 bobbins.

FINISHED SIZE 16" x 91" plus 5" twisted fringe.

YARNS 20/2 wool (4,712 yd/lb; Mora; Vävstuga). 6/1 wool (2,976 yd/lb; Fårö; Vävstuga).

PURCHASE NOW

(WIF included with download)

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SILK WALL OF TROY LAURA FRY WITH KATRINA KING

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Alternate colorway

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FREE SHIPPING on all

FLOOR LOOMS 28

Yarn photo HALCYON YARN Halcyon’s 2/12 Gemstone Silk is a plied silk yarn just the right weight for weaving up scarves and shawls with great drape that won’t take forever to warp.

We love the richness of the colorways, and how the silk finishes without blooming so woven patterns stay crisp. The 2/12 silk also pairs beautifully with Halcyon’s full line of Gemstone silks, which includes plied silks of different weights, a soft-twist singles yarn, and even a bouclé.

SILK WALL OF TROY LAURA FRY WITH KATRINA KING There is nothing quite like silk, especially when worn next to the skin. Halcyon’s 2/12 Gemstone 100% silk yarn is lustrous, produces great drape, and comes in a variety of beautiful colors. For

Shown here: 1130, 1040, and 1070.

this scarf, I wanted to make something elegant

FIBER: 100% silk PUT-UP: 105 yd per mini cone; 610 yd per 3.5 oz hank RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–12; plain weave–16; twill–18 epi COLORWAYS: 20

with a little bit of interest in the texture and pattern. The twill variation that Marguerite Porter Davison calls Wall of Troy makes a nice overall pattern. Twill has good drape, so between the silk and the twill structure, the resulting scarf feels soft and molds itself around the neck.

STRUCTURE Twill.

OTHER SUPPLIES Synthrapol textile detergent.

EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 11" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle.

FINISHED SIZE 9½" x 77" with 4½" fringe.

YARNS Gemstone 2/12 silk (100% silk; 2,800 yd/lb; Halcyon).

PURCHASE NOW

(WIF included with download)

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SWEDISH LACE SCARF SUZIE LILES

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Alternate colorway

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SWEDISH YARN FOR THE MODERN WEAVER

BORGS MO R A Y ARN 34

DOWNLOAD 2018/2019 PRICELIST AT WWW.GLIMAKRAUSA.COM

Yarn photo GLIMÅKRA USA YARNS Made in Sweden, Borgs’s Mora yarn is a delightfully soft 20/2 wool that won’t full, so you can weave delicate laces—including Swedish lace—and not lose any of the definition after wet-finishing. We love that Mora is available in a wide variety of colorways that includes (and goes beyond) the traditional Scandinavian palette.

Shown here: #2016 Blue Pastel, #2080 Gray Medium Dark, #2060 Blue Medium, and #2010 Green Medium FIBER: 100% wool YARDAGE: 1,039 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–16 epi; plain weave–20 epi; twill–24 epi COLORWAYS: 51

SWEDISH LACE SCARF SUZIE LILES When designing my scarf, I wanted to pick a structure that would not only emphasize the best qualities of Mora yarn but also pay homage to the long history of the Borgs Company. What better structure than Swedish lace? According to Marguerite Porter Davison in A Handweaver’s Pattern Book, Swedish lace can be traced back at least as far as the Vikings. Mora is a fairly fine yarn that doesn’t full or felt, and when woven in Swedish lace, it makes a scarf with great drape that highlights the beautiful lacy designs in the fabric.

STRUCTURE Swedish lace.

EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 10" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 1 bobbin.

PURCHASE NOW

(WIF included with download)

YARNS Borgs Mora 20/2 wool (4,712 yd/lb; Glimåkra USA).

FINISHED SIZE 8½" x 66" with 5" fringe.

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TURNABOUT SCARF SARAH JACKSON

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Let Us Inspire You! Gorgeous cottons, rayons, chenilles, bamboos, tencels, cottolins in lots of sizes, over 1500 colors, all affordably priced.

Plus our exclusively designed kits make weaving easy!

1-800-322-7888 www.cottonclouds.com 40

Yarn photo COTTON CLOUDS YARN Gypsy Chenille works equally well in both warp and weft, making it a perfect candidate for diversified plain weave. Its trademark softness creates a sumptuous scarf that’s delightful to weave and wear. We love the feel of fabrics woven from Gypsy Chenille and the fact that it comes in over 100 solid and variegated colorways.

Cotton Clouds’ Tencel serves as the perfect foil for Gypsy Chenille. Silky, shimmery, and strong, the Tencel lets the chenille shine while adding to the luxuriousness of the scarf. Tencel is also a wonderful weaving yarn on its own.

Shown here: Gypsy Chenille (Midnight Teal and Topaz), Tencel (Tashkent) CHENILLE

FIBER: 100% rayon YARDAGE: 1,300 yd per 1 lb cone; 325 yd per 4 oz cone RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–12; plain weave–15; twill–18 epi COLORWAYS: 112 TENCEL

FIBER: 100% lyocell YARDAGE: 3,360 yd per 1 lb cone; 840 yd per 4 oz cone RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–16; plain weave–20; twill–24 epi.

COLORWAYS: 47

TURNABOUT SCARF SARAH JACKSON Soft and luxurious, rayon chenille is a delight to wear but works best in “stricter” weave structures. For that reason, I chose diversified plain weave for this cowl-style scarf. Diversified plain weave has no floats, allowing the chenille to strut its stuff.

STRUCTURE Diversified plain weave.

8/2 Tencel (3,360 yd/lb; Cotton Clouds).

EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 9" weaving width; 8-dent reed; 2 shuttles.

OTHER SUPPLIES Synthrapol textile detergent.

YARNS Gypsy Chenille (100% rayon; 1,300 yd/lb; Cotton Clouds).

PURCHASE NOW

(WIF included with download)

FINISHED SIZE 7" x 72" (after washing and joining).

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JIN SILK SCARF BONNIE INOUYE AND ROBIN WILTON

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Zola & Carmela silk yarns, designed and woven by Betsy Blumenthal

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All photography by Thomas Harrop

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1.888.383.silk (7455) Kiku silk yarn in natural-dye colors, designed by 46 Du Bois, woven by Betsy Blumenthal Susan

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Silken Ankara & Taiyo silk yarns, woven by Eunice York

Yarn photo TREENWAY SILKS YARNS Kiku is a 20/2 spun silk made from 100% bombyx silk. It’s also Treenway Silks’ most popular silk, and it’s easy to see why. Kiku is fine, but not so fine that it will intimidate weavers new to silk. In addition, because Treenway Silks custom dyes most of its yarns, it’s available in a mind-boggling array of colors. For those who can’t wait, Treenway Silks offers Kiku as part of its Color Now! line of predyed yarns.

Myo-jo-, Kiku’s thinner cousin, is a 60/2 spun silk yarn perfect for weaving extrafine fabrics or as weft on a Kiku warp. Myo-jo- is available in the same colors as Kiku and is also part of the Color Now! line.

Shown here: Kiku (I Can’t Believe It’s Not Indigo and Creole Spice), Myo-jo- (Emerald Dream) KIKU

FIBER: 100% silk YARDAGE: 1,100 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–22; plain weave–26; twill–30 epi COLORWAYS: 127 - MYO JO

FIBER: 100% silk YARDAGE: 3,300 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–40; plain weave–45; twill–60 epi COLORWAYS: 127

JIN SILK SCARF BONNIE INOUYE WITH ROBIN WILTON Treenway Silks’ 20/2 and 60/2 bombyx silk yarns are the perfect choice for this scarf woven in turned taqueté by Robin Wilton. Not only does the light-yet-sturdy silk drape beautifully in this warp-emphasis weave structure, but the silk also catches the light and adds to the iridescence created by the careful combination of complementary colors in warp and weft.

STRUCTURE Turned taqueté.

EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 11" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins.

YARNS Warp: Kiku 20/2 bombyx silk

PURCHASE NOW

(WIF included with download)

(5,000 yd/lb; Treenway Silks).

Weft: Myo-jo- 60/2 bombyx silk (15,000 yd/lb; Treenway Silks).

FINISHED SIZE 8½" x 72" with ½" doubleweave hems.

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THANK YOU for browsing this issue of LOOM THEORY. If you enjoyed this lookbook, you can purchase the entire pattern collection HERE. You can also click the Purchase Now button on every design information page to be directed to our store page, where you can download the collection. Individual WIFs for each scarf are included with the download.

EDITORIAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, YARN & FIBER Anne Merrow EDITOR Susan E. Horton ASSOCIATE EDITOR Christina Garton MANAGING EDITOR Rachel Koon TECHNICAL EDITORS Rona Aspholm, Deanna Deeds, Elisabeth Hill, Anita Osterhaug, Angela K. Schneider, Susan Wilson, Bettie Zakon-Anderson

FOUNDER Linda Ligon DIRECTOR OF CONTENT STRATEGY Stephen Koenig DIRECTOR OF MEDIA SALES Julie Macdonald DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Kim Greenlee

COPY EDITOR Katie Bright PROOFREADER Nancy Arndt WEB PRODUCER Tamara Schmiege SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Andrea Lotz

CREATIVE

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Gregory J. Osberg

ART DIRECTOR Kit Kinseth

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Kenneth Kharbanda

DESIGNER Kyle Hathcoat

S.V.P., GENERAL MANAGER—F+W CRAFTS GROUP

PHOTOGRAPHY Caleb Young (Good Folk Photography)

AND BOOKS David Pyle

PHOTOSTYLING Tina Gill

MANAGING DIRECTOR, F+W INTERNATIONAL

HAIR & MAKEUP Janie Rocek

James Woollam V.P., CONSUMER MARKETING John Phelan

MARKETING/SALES

V.P., GENERAL COUNSEL Robert Sporn

ADVERTISING MANAGER Stephanie Griess

V.P., HUMAN RESOURCES, CUSTOMER SERVICE, AND

AD TRAFFICKER Mary Lutz

TRADE Gigi Healy

DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER Nick Patenaude

V.P., MANUFACTURING AND LOGISTICS

NEWSSTAND SALES Scott T. Hill (scott.hill@procirc.com)

Phil Graham V.P., PRODUCT MANAGEMENT Pat Fitzgerald

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