Handwoven Loom Theory Rigid-Heddle Scarf Collection

Yarn photo

HANDWOVEN

LOOM THEORY rigid-heddle scarf collection

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CONTENTS LOOM THEORY

• volume III

05 A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

by Susan E. Horton

THE COLLECTION 06 SILK SCARF Stephanie Flynn Sokolov 12 YARN TO LOVE Anu Bhatia 18 SUNSET SHAWL Judith Shangold 24 WINTER JASMINE Jenny Sennott 30 TACONIC TONIC Elisabeth Hill 36 SPARKLE NATION Amy Gunderson 42 STREET SMART Sara Goldenberg

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A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

PHOTO BY GEORGE BOE

There are many things I love about rigid-heddle looms, but in the top tier are their flexibility and adaptability for hand manipulation of warp and weft. I love that with a simple pickup stick, I can easily create patterns and lace without being constrained by the harnesses and tie-ups of a floor loom. It may seem counterintuitive, but I also love the limitations of rigid-heddle looms—their smaller dimension and the limited number of heddle sizes push me to design in different ways.

Welcome to Loom Theory Volume III: Rigid-Heddle Scarf Collection, the third in a new series of digital lookbooks for weavers and a special publication of Handwoven magazine.

For Rigid-Heddle Scarf Collection, we asked seven designers to design scarves that use the flexibility of the rigid-heddle loom to their advantage, whether it is in the ease of direct warping, using a pick-up stick or sticks, tying Brooks bouquet bundles, hatching, or other techniques. Our desire to show off what a rigid-heddle loom can do didn’t stop there; we also challenged our designers to use fine yarns— silk, wool, Tencel, chenille, and several blends—from beloved yarn companies to create gorgeous and special scarves.

You can purchase the pattern collection while browsing the lookbook—just find the “Purchase Now” button on every design-information page to be directed to our store page, where you can download the entire collection of patterns in a bundle.

The luscious yarns in this lookbook are courtesy of Treenway Silks, Jagger Spun, Fairmount Fibers, Cotton Clouds, WEBS, Universal Yarn, and Ashford. The designers are Stephanie Flynn Sokolov, Anu Bhatia, Judith Shangold, Jenny Sennott, Elisabeth Hill, Amy Gunderson, and Sara Goldenberg.

I think you are going to love this wonderful collection of luxurious scarves, all woven on rigid-heddle looms!

Weave well,

Projects and information are for inspiration and p ­ ersonal use only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please email handwoven@interweave.com. Handwoven does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, p ­ roducts, services, or views advertised in Handwoven. Nor does Handwoven evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in e ­ valu­ating the advertisers, products, services, and views a ­ dvertised in Handwoven.

For advertising information, call Stephanie Griess at (877) 613-4630 or email sales@fwmedia.com.

For editorial inquiries, call (866) 949-1646, email handwoven@interweave.com, or write to 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5576.

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SILK SCARF STEPHANIE FLYNN SOKOLOV

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Silk Scarf Kits for your Rigid Heddle Loom

“Big Plaid” Silk Scarf Kit – Woven by Joy Jensen (left) and Designed and Woven Peg MacMorris (right)

“Light & Dark Fibonacci Stripes” – Silk 2-Scarves Kit Designed and Woven by Peg MacMorris

“Ribbed Stripes” Silk Scarf Kit Designed and Woven by Peg MacMorris (right & middle) and Woven by Joy Jensen (left)

MORE COLORS

available online Call toll-free 1.888.383.silk (7455)

www.treenwaysilks.com 10

Yarn photo TREENWAY SILKS YARNS Weaving with silk is fantastic and, luckily for us, not just for floor-loom weavers. Treenway Silks offers a full line of bombyx silk yarns that work well on a rigid-heddle loom, weaving up into scarves and shawls that are light and drapey with the shimmer and shine you expect from silk. Take, for instance, the yarns highlighted here, Jorie II and Margaret.

Both are cabled yarns composed of multiple strands of 2-ply, thin silk threads. That extra twist in their construction makes them strong, stable, and equally at home in the warp or weft.

Because Treenway Silks custom dyes most of its yarn, both of these yarns are available in a mind-boggling array of colors. For those who can’t wait for custom dyeing, Treenway Silks offers Jorie II and Margaret as part of their Color Now! line of predyed yarns. The featured space-dyed Jorie II was specially—and lovingly!—hand-dyed for this scarf.

Shown here: Jorie II (Colorado Sky and Butterflies), Margaret (Eucalyptus, Zydeco)

SILK SCARF STEPHANIE FLYNN SOKOLOV Drape yourself in the luxury of silk with this lacy scarf woven in a simple pick-up pattern that highlights a space-dyed yarn. The warp floats on one side, woven using a repeating pick-up pattern, translate to weft floats on the other side. Pick your favorite side or pick both: they are equally beautiful. After all, it is silk!

STRUCTURE Plain weave with floats.

MARGARET

FIBER: 100% bombyx silk YARDAGE: 595 yd per 3.90 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETT: 10–12 WRAPS PER INCH: 16 COLORWAYS: 127

EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 10" weaving width; 10-dent heddle; stick shuttle; pick-up stick.

YARNS Margaret (100% bombyx silk; 2,450 yd/lb; Treenway Silks).

Jorie II (100% bombyx silk; 950 yd/lb; Treenway Silks).

FINISHED SIZE (after washing): 72" with 6" fringe.

JORIE II

FIBER: 100% bombyx silk YARDAGE: 195 yd per 3.35 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETT: 10–12 epi WRAPS PER INCH: 22 COLORWAYS: 127

PURCHASE NOW

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YARN TO LOVE www.jaggeryarn.com Springvale, Maine USA

ANU BHATIA

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Mousam Falls — Superwash Wool 4/6, 4/14 and limited colors in 2/24 available.

Springvale, Maine USA

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Yarn photo JAGGER SPUN Jagger Spun has a long-standing reputation for luxury yarns, and the three yarns used

by Anu Bhatia are no exception. The 2/18 Superfine Merino weaves up into cloth with a light texture perfect for wearables. Equally lovely is the 4/6 Mousam Falls, a superwash merino lambswool that weaves up beautifully and can be washed without worry. The lovely and lofty 3/8 Heather is a worsted-spun wool yarn with wonderful flecks of color.

Shown here: 4/6 Mousam Falls (Midnight), Mousam Falls Sock (Sapphire), 3/8 Heather (Smoke), Superfine Merino (Mushroom) 2/18 SUPERFINE MERINO

FIBER: 100% superfine grade merino YARDAGE: 5,040 yd per 1 lb cone; 560 yd per 50 g skein WRAPS PER INCH: 30 RECOMMENDED SETT: plain weave 18–20 epi COLORWAYS: 44

YARN TO LOVE ANU BHATIA For me, projects almost always start with a loveat-first-sight moment with a particular yarn. This is followed by research to find the perfect weave structure to showcase my new love. When I was asked to make a scarf using Jagger Spun yarns, which were already the objects of a serious yarn crush of mine, first, I did a happy dance, and then I designed a scarf with a color-and-weave pattern that uses three sizes of yarn for added interest.

4/6 MOUSAM FALLS

FIBER: 100% superwash merino lambswool YARDAGE: 840 yd per 1 lb cone; 187 yd per 100 g skein WRAPS PER INCH: 12 RECOMMENDED SETT: plain weave 8–10 epi COLORWAYS: 37 3/8 HEATHER

FIBER: 100% wool YARDAGE: 1,500 yd per 1 lb cone; 332 yd per 100 g skein WRAPS PER INCH: 22 RECOMMENDED SETT: plain weave 12 epi COLORWAYS: 37

STRUCTURE: Plain weave with color-andweave.

EQUIPMENT: Rigid-heddle loom, 10" weaving width; 10-dent heddle; 2 stick shuttles.

YARNS 4/6 Mousam Falls (100%

PURCHASE NOW

superwash merino; 840 yd/lb; Jagger Spun). 2/18 Superfine Merino (100% merino; 5,040 yd/lb; Jagger Spun).

3/8 Heather (100% wool; 1,500 yd/lb; Jagger Spun).

FINISHED SIZE (after washing): 8½" x 65" with 5½" fringe.

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SUNSET SHAWL JUDITH SHANGOLD

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Yarn photo MANOS DEL URUGUAY Manos del Uruguay’s Serena is a scrumptious blend of hand-dyed baby alpaca and Pima cotton. These two fibers react differently to the dyeing process, giving each skein of Serena a delicate heathered appearance.

Available in both semisolid and space-dyed colorways, no two skeins are exactly alike, but they’re all gorgeous. Use them to weave a statement scarf or shawl as Judith Shangold did, and you’ll have a wonderful—and warm—piece to treasure for years to come.

Serena, however, isn’t just a beautiful yarn: it also has a beautiful story. As with all of Manos del Uruguay’s yarns, Serena is a fairtrade yarn made in rural Uruguay by talented artisans. Every skein comes tagged with the name of the person who made the yarn and where it was produced. A yarn that provides meaningful work to artisans in rural areas and that is also a dream to weave with—what’s not to love?

Shown here: Sunrise, Alpine, Cranberry, Thunder FIBER: 60% baby alpaca/40% Pima cotton YARDAGE: 170 yd per 50 g skein RECOMMENDED SETT: 10–12 epi WRAPS PER INCH: 15 COLORWAYS: 39

SUNSET SHAWL JUDITH SHANGOLD Hatching, hachure in French, is a tapestry technique. When utilized in a balanced weave, this simple technique creates a painterly effect. You can be very freeform with it or create a structured pattern. For this shawl, I designed two bands and alternated them, separating the bands with a few inches of a solid color. Follow the directions to re-create what I have done or design your own “painting.”

STRUCTURE Plain weave with hatching.

EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 20" weaving width; 12- or 12.5dent heddle; 2 shuttles and 4 bobbins or 4 stick shuttles.

PURCHASE NOW

YARNS Serena (60% baby alpaca/40% Pima cotton; 170 yd/50 g; 1,552 yd/lb; Manos del Uruguay; Fairmount Fibers).

FINISHED SIZE (after washing): 16½" x 68" with 6½" fringe.

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WINTER JASMINE JENNY SENNOTT

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Let Us Inspire You! Gorgeous cottons, rayons, chenilles, bamboos, tencels, cottolins in lots of sizes, over 1500 colors, all affordably priced.

Plus our exclusively designed kits make weaving easy!

1-800-322-7888 www.cottonclouds.com 28

Yarn photo COTTON CLOUDS YARN Gypsy Chenille’s softness makes it an ideal yarn for weaving sumptuous scarves, shawls, and anything else you’d want to wear against the skin. Not only is chenille extra soft, it also gives handwoven cloth an extra layer of texture that just has to be touched. Use it as a primary yarn in a piece or use it in small amounts for a bit of visual interest.

Cotton Clouds’ Tencel is silky, shimmery, and strong, making it a perfect choice for either warp or weft. Used alone, Tencel weaves up into lightweight fabric that shines. It also plays nicely with other yarns, including Gypsy Chenille. Tencel lets the chenille stand out front and center while adding an extra bit of luxuriousness to a piece.

Shown here: Gypsy Chenille (Harbor Grey), Tencel (Blue Purple, Blueberry) GYPSY CHENILLE

FIBER: 100% rayon YARDAGE: 325 yd per 4 oz cone WRAPS PER INCH: 14 RECOMMENDED SETTS: 15 COLORWAYS: 112

WINTER JASMINE JENNY SENNOTT Tencel and chenille are alluring yarns for weavers. Tencel has a sheen and drape reminiscent of silk, and chenille’s plush texture never loses its appeal for weavers seeking a luxurious fabric. I wove this scarf using Cotton Clouds’ 8/2 Tencel and chenille. The finished scarf has a luxurious hand and graceful drape. It’s a perfect accessory for special occasions or any time you just want to feel pampered.

STRUCTURE Plain weave with warp floats and inlay.

8/2 TENCEL

FIBER: 100% lyocell YARDAGE: 840 yd per 4 oz cone WRAPS PER INCH: 30 RECOMMENDED SETTS: 20 COLORWAYS: 47

EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 10" weaving width; 12-dent heddle; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins, 1 pick-up stick; 2 small stick shuttles (optional).

PURCHASE NOW

YARNS 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 3,360 yd/lb; Cotton Clouds).

Gypsy Chenille (100% rayon chenille; 1,300 yd/lb; Cotton Clouds).

FINISHED SIZE (after washing) 8½" x 70" with 6" fringe.

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TACONIC TONIC ELISABETH HILL

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Big Impact Little Loom

RIGID HEDDLE LOOM PROJECT!

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Valley Yarns #139 Tartan Tote Weave the tote fabric on your rigid heddle loom and have fun with the different stripes on the front and and back. Weave the straps on an Inkle loom (instructions included) . $4.99 draft download

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Schacht Flip Loom This folding rigid heddle loom is compact, sturdy, and a pleasure to weave on. Flip is ideal for plain weaves and pickup patterns and is available in several sizes.

RIGID HEDDLE LOOM PROJECTS!

Starting at $290.00

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Valley Yarns #114 Let the Sun Shine In Towels These towels are a ray of cheery sunshine and offer infinite possibilities for playing with weft stripes to make each towel unique. $4.99 draft download Valley Yarns #136 Southwest Sunrise Who says rigid heddle weavers can’t play with coned yarns? Nonsense, we say, and here’s a scarf to prove it. 8/2 Tencel® has a great sheen and drape, and you can use two heddles to weave with it on your RH loom. $4.99 draft download Valley Yarns Conway A soft blend of Pima cotton and acrylic in a delightful palette of colors is perfect for nearly any project. $3.99, discountable

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yarn.com 800.367.9327

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Deduct 20% on your $60 yarn and book order and 25% on your $120 yarn and book order.

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VISIT OUR STORE 75 SERVICE CENTER ROAD, NORTHAMPTON, MA

Yarn photo VALLEY YARNS TACONIC WOOLS

The words “beautiful,” “soft to the touch,” and “warm” describe Taconic wool from Valley Yarns. Named for a lovely scenic parkway that winds its way from New York City to Albany, this hearty yarn blend of merino and cashmere will wind its way into your heart.

Want depth of color in your yarn? Here it is.

This 3-strand, bulky-weight yarn uses color mixing and multicolored flecks to create a tweedy appearance. Look closely and you’ll see tweed; look from afar and you’ll see a deep solid color. Merino wool and cashmere are synonymous with softness and luxury; Valley Yarns’ Taconic takes these two iconic fibers and blends them together to create a yarn that is supremely soft. Use it to weave up cozy scarves and shawls that will keep you nice and toasty on a cold winter’s day.

Shown here: Brown Tweed, Oatmeal Tweed, and Navy Tweed FIBER: 70% merino wool/30% cashmere YARDAGE: 125 yd per 1.75 oz WRAPS PER INCH: 11 RECOMMENDED SETTS: plain weave–8 epi; deflected doubleweave–12 epi COLORWAYS: 11

TACONIC TONIC ELISABETH HILL This spring, I took a small detour that put me on the Taconic State Parkway, a small highway that runs parallel to the New York State Thruway up to Albany. This highway is beautiful in all seasons, but my early evening drive in May made me recognize the rewards of taking “the slower route.” This project is a tonic for the rush of modern life because it is the slower route. Take the Taconic Tonic—you will be rewarded.

STRUCTURE Deflected doubleweave using pick-up.

EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 12" weaving width; 12-dent heddle; 3 shuttles; 2 pick-up sticks.

YARNS Taconic (70% merino wool/30% cashmere; 1,143 yd/lb, 125 yd/1¾ oz; Valley Yarns; WEBS. FINISHED SIZE (after washing) 8" x 72" with 4" fringe.

OTHER SUPPLIES Wool wash; deep abiding patience.

PURCHASE NOW

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SPARKLE NATION AMY GUNDERSON

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Universe A unique blend of linen, cotton, and glitter Perfect for weaving, knitting, and crochet www.universalyarn.com w w w. u n i v e r s a l y a r n . c o m 40

Yarn photo UNIVERSAL YARN Celebrate the important occasions in your life with Universe from Universal Yarn, a special yarn blend that combines traditional fibers (linen and cotton) with modern fibers (glitter and polyamide). As often happens when fibers are blended, their best qualities rise to the surface, complementing one another.

SPARKLE NATION AMY GUNDERSON

You’ll feel the crispness and weightlessness of linen and the cozy softness of cotton in this sturdy yarn, which works well in both warp and weft. It’s also ideal for showing off on-loom hand manipulation such as the Brooks bouquet that Amy Gunderson used in this scarf. The glitter and polyamide add just the right amount of bling, making Universe the perfect yarn to take you from a casual celebration to an elegant one.

I am a sucker for an interesting yarn blend. Uni-

Shown here: (Clockwise from top left) Tin, Wood, Paper, Pottery

overall look of the shawl.

UNIVERSE

FIBER: 42% linen/41% cotton/9% glitter/8% polyamide YARDAGE: 246 yd per 1.75 oz ball RECOMMENDED SETT: 10–12 WRAPS PER INCH: 24 COLORWAYS: 10

verse is a kind of magical yarn that brings the best of the plant world together with shiny metallics into a kind of “techno-wonderland” yarn.

I used openwork patterning in this scarf to subdue what is a very glittery yarn and to soften the

STRUCTURE Plain weave with Brooks bouquet, ladder hemstitching, pick-up, and locking soumak.

EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 15" weaving width; 12-dent heddle; 2 shuttles.

YARNS Universe (42% linen/41% cotton/9% glitter/8% polyamide; 246 yd/50 g; 2,231 yd/lb; Universal Yarn).

PURCHASE NOW

OTHER SUPPLIES Cardboard strip ½" x 16"; tapestry needle; netting shuttle (optional); mindfulness and stillness for areas of soumak and ladder hemstitching. Recommend a vigorous yoga flow prior to beginning.

FINISHED SIZE (after washing): 13" x 81" with 6½" fringe.

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STREET SMART SARA GOLDENBERG

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ASHFORD

ASHFORD RIGID HEDDLE

RIGID HEDDLE LOOMS LOOMS Everything you need to weave - just add yarn!

Time to Accessorize!

SampleIt Loom

Create your own unique fabric.

Weave fine cotton to thick art yarn. Choose 10" or 16" weaving width. Includes built-in second heddle option.

NEW

Warp and be weaving in minutes.

Wavy Shuttles

Optional accessories: Loom stand, extra reeds, vari dent reed and canvas carry bag.

So easy and effective.

Available in 3 sizes. Smooth lacquer finish.

Reeds, Shuttles and Pickup Sticks

Knitters Loom

Portable and compact. Choose 12", 20" or 28" weaving width.

Includes second heddle option and padded carry bag.

Reeds made of strong, durable yet gentle nylon.

Weave fine to chunky yarns. Sizes 2.5, 5, 7.5, 10, 12.5 and 15 dpi.

Shuttles - 7 sizes.

Fold and go with weaving in place.

Pickup Sticks - 7 sizes.

Optional accessories: Loom stand, extra reeds and vari dent reed.

Rigid Heddle Loom

Our most popular loom is so versatile and easy to use!

Choose 16”, 24”, 32” or 48” weaving width. Includes second heddle option.

Optional accessories: Loom stand, table stand, freedom roller, extra reeds and vari dent reed.

Find your local Ashford dealer at www.ashford.co.nz/where-to-buy Dealer enquiries welcome.

46 sales@ashford.co.nz www.ashford.co.nz

Loom Stand

Strong frame with 2 shelves and foot rest.

Yarn photo ASHFORD For every person in New Zealand, there are roughly 18 sheep, so it should come as no surprise that New Zealand wool is consistently considered some of the best in the world.

World-class wool makes for world-class yarns, and Ashford’s line of Tekapo yarns is no exception.

STREET SMART SARA GOLDENBERG

Made from 100% New Zealand corriedale and perendale wool, Tekapo is especially designed to be both extra soft and extra strong, so you can feel confident using it in both the warp and weft. Available in colorways bright and beautiful as well as soft and subdued, Tekapo yarns are as lovely as the New Zealand lake that inspired their name.

With its neutral colors and geometric form that

Shown here: Tekapo 8-ply (Silver, Slate, Olive); Tekapo 12-ply (Black)

Zealand wool comes in a variety of colors and

TEKAPO 8-PLY

FIBER: 100% New Zealand wool YARDAGE: 218 yd per 100 g ball WRAPS PER INCH: 13 RECOMMENDED SETT: plain weave 8–10 epi COLORWAYS: 34 TEKAPO 12-PLY

FIBER: 100% New Zealand wool YARDAGE: 146 yd per 100 g ball WRAPS PER INCH: 9 RECOMMENDED SETT: 8 epi COLORWAYS: 34

will go with almost anything, this scarf is meant for daily wear. Wool is a great fiber to keep out the chill of fall and winter days, and this scarf will do just that! Ashford’s Tekapo 100% New weights. The solid colors pair well for color-andweave projects that pop. The floats caused different color-and-weave patterns on the front and back—always a fun surprise!

STRUCTURE Plain weave with color-and weave and pick- up.

EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 13" weaving width; 8-dent heddle; 2 shuttles; 1 pick-up stick.

PURCHASE NOW

YARNS Ashford Tekapo 8-ply (100% New Zealand Wool; 990 yd/lb; Ashford). Ashford Tekapo 12ply (100% New Zealand Wool; 660 yd/lb; Ashford).

FINISHED SIZE 10½" x 76" with 4" fringe.

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THANK YOU for browsing this issue of LOOM THEORY. If you enjoyed this lookbook, you can purchase the entire pattern collection HERE. You can also click the Purchase Now button on every design information page to be directed to our store page, where you can download the collection.

EDITORIAL GROUP EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, YARN & FIBER Anne Merrow EDITOR Susan E. Horton ASSOCIATE EDITOR Christina Garton MANAGING EDITOR Rachel Koon TECHNICAL EDITORS Rona Aspholm, Deanna Deeds, Elisabeth Hill, Anita Osterhaug, Angela K. Schneider,

FOUNDER Linda Ligon DIRECTOR OF CONTENT, CRAFT Tiffany Warble DIRECTOR OF MEDIA SALES Julie Macdonald DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Kim Greenlee

Bettie Zakon-Anderson COPY EDITOR Dale Ulland PROOFREADER Nancy Arndt WEB PRODUCER Tamara Schmiege SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Andrea Lotz CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Gregory J. Osberg

CREATIVE

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Kenneth Kharbanda

GROUP ART DIRECTOR, CRAFT Emily Simpson

S.V.P., GENERAL MANAGER—F+W CRAFTS GROUP

ART DIRECTOR Kit Kinseth

David Pyle

PRODUCTION DESIGNER Lee Ann Short

MANAGING DIRECTOR, F+W INTERNATIONAL

PHOTOGRAPHY Caleb Young (Good Folk Photography)

James Woollam

PHOTOSTYLING Tina Gill

V.P., CONSUMER MARKETING John Phelan

HAIR & MAKEUP Janie Rocek

V.P., GENERAL COUNSEL Robert Sporn V.P., HUMAN RESOURCES, CUSTOMER SERVICE,

MARKETING/SALES

AND TRADE Gigi Healy

ADVERTISING MANAGER Stephanie Griess

V.P., PRODUCT MANAGEMENT Pat Fitzgerald

AD TRAFFICKER Mary Lutz SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Jessi Rodriguez NEWSSTAND SALES Scott T. Hill (scott.hill@procirc.com)

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