EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:46 AM Page 1
RESTAURANTS | RECIPES | WINES | FOOD | TRAVEL 速
the tastiest summer ever
Smart. Local. Delicious.
Butter-Bathed Rib Eye
16 YEARS OF GOOD FOOD & DRINK
l 2015 | Issue 19-04 | eatmagazine.ca
CELEBRATING
JULY | AUGUST
RAISE THE STEAKS
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 2
entertain your sense of style TWO RIVERS SPECIALTY MEATS DIRECT TO CONSUMER PROGRAM
MEATS
Meating www www.tworiversmeats.com .tworiversmeats.com 60 604.990.5288 4.990.5288 inf info@ o@tw tworiversmeats.com oriversmeats.com
Broadmead Village, 130-777 Royal Oak Drive, Victoria, BC www.pennakitchen.com, 250-727-2110, Info@pennakitchen.com
for people who love to cook
rrooftop oo oftop o surfclub sur s rfcllu ub At 45 Bastion Square
Globally Inspired. Local Flavour.
ask about our
Special Occasion Brunch & Wine Dinners
@CamillesDining
CamillesAt45BastionSquare
2
Camille`s @ 45 Bastion Square Victoria, BC 250-381-3433 www.camillesrestaurant.com
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
Open for Dinner Service Tuesday through Saturday starting at 5:30
check out our fresh seafood bar! UjU]`UV`Y '!*da ˜ h\ifgXUm!gUhifXUm 919 douglas st.
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 3
Smart. Local. Delicious.
content DEPARTMENTS 06 FROM THE EDITOR
g Food 06 CONCIERGE DESK Elizabeth Nyland
Monthly calendar of events + festivals
08 Good For You Patio food
10 Craft Local butchers
11 Food Matters Big salads
12 Get Fresh Blueberries
13 Epicure At Large Chilies
g
Restaurants
14 Reporter Italian Bakery, Wild Mountain
16 Eating Well For Less
Pierogies with bacon and onions, Polish Sausage, Dijon mustard at A Taste of Europe pg 17.
La Tana, Stir it Up, A Taste of Europe Deli
18 Reporter Five Asian restaurants
23 Top 5 Ice Creams & gelato
g Recipes
Rebecca Wellman
26 Local Kitchen Meat the new steak frites, Afternoon berry galette
g Features 30 Sweet Pies
Local piemakers & ingredients
32 The Oak Bay Food Trail Special Feature
g Wine
& Beer
22 Cocktail of the Month Jugs and Punches
44 Vincabulary Gruner Veltliner
BBQ catfish at Heart of Asia pg 20.
45 Beer & a Bite Persephone Brewing’s India Summer Ale
46 Wine + Terroir Southern Rhones
48 Wine & Food Pairing A summer picnic menu
49 Liquid Assets Larry Arnold recommends10 wines
g
Community
41 What the Pros Know: Butchers & fishmongers 50 The Buzz: All the news that fit to print...and then some
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
3
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 4
| Editor’s Note |
HAVE THE BEST SUMMER EVER
Gary Hynes
HAND-CRAFTED BREAD MADE WITH FRESHLY STONE-MILLED FLOUR AND ONLY CERTIFIED ORGANIC OR SUSTAINABLY GROWN LOCAL INGREDIENTS . NATURALLY LEAVENED AND BAKED TO CRUSTY PERFECTION IN WOOD-FIRED BRICK OVENS.
R. Wellman
VANCOUVER ISLAND COMES ALIVE IN THE SUMMER; the streets fill with visitors and locals stay up later. It’s a time for family cookouts and fireworks, loud music and cold rosé wine. We linger on outdoor patios and rise early to find the city scraped clean and fresh with a new day. It’s a time to celebrate simple pleasures like icy cold beer with a spicy tuna taco, vegetables on the grill or a creamy blackberry ice cream cone. Everyone plays hooky from work occasionally in the summer. When I do, I like to idle away a hot afternoon reading a book in my garden, a sandwich made with a perfectly ripe tomato and a cafetiere of French press coffee at my side. What could be better? This issue, we have two Top 5 articles: one exploring under-the-radar Asian restaurants; the other we did the slurping around for you so you could enjoy the best ice cream and gelato in the city. Turn to page 10 where new writer Sol Kauffman pays tribute to the craft of the local butcher, and in the recipe department we reveal our recipe for the ultimate steak frites and offer a cooling blueberry and beet borscht. Whatever your plans for this summer, I hope you eat deliciously well. Summer is a perfect slice of peach pie. See page 30
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 5
E AT FOUNDER & EDITOR Gary Hynes PUBLISHER Pacific Island Gourmet SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR Colin Hynes CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Carolyn Bateman VANCOUVER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Julie Pegg DRINK EDITOR Treve Ring SENIOR WINE WRITER Larry Arnold ART DIRECTION Gary Hynes COPYEDITOR Cynthia Annett REGIONAL REPORTERS Tofino | Ucluelet Jen Dart | Victoria Rebecca Baugniet | Cowichan Valley-Up Island Kirsten Tyler CONTRIBUTORS Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Holly Brooke, Adam Cantor, Cinda Chavich, John Crawford, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Colin Hynes, Jon Johnson, Sol Kaufman, Tracey Kusiewicz, Sophie MacKenzie, Sherri Martin, Elizabeth Monk, Michaela Morris, Simon Nattrass, Elizabeth Nyland, Tim Pawsey, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Kaitlyn Rosenburg, Adrien Sala, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman. Cover photography by Michael Tourigny
Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.
OUR ETHICAL GUIDING PRINCIPALS 1. EAT has advertisers in our magazine and on our website; they are our primary source of income. Our company, Pacific Island Gourmet, employs a dedicated advertising team responsible for selling ad space in EAT and on EatMagazine.ca. The EAT editorial team does not accept money or other consideration from companies as a condition or incentive to write a review or story. All editorial content on EAT is based on the editor’s discretion, not on the desire of any company, advertiser or PR firm. Occasionally EAT and EatMagazine.ca may publish sponsor content, which will be labelled. 2. EAT contributors are not allowed to ask for free meals or drinks. Anyone identifying themselves as being on assignment for EAT will be able to prove their employment.
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Gary Hynes SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Susan Worrall DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Lindsay Van Gyn VANCOUVER SALES Clevers Media
HOW TO REACH EAT MAGAZINE ADVERTISING 250.384.9042, editor@eatmagazine.ca WEBSITE EatMagazine.ca MAILING ADDRESS Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4 TEL 250.384.9042 EMAIL editor@eatmagazine.ca PICK-UP THE MAGAZINE EAT is delivered to over 300 pick-up locations in BC including Victoria & Vancouver, Vancouver Island. Visit our website for locations
Facebook/EatMagazine
twitter.com/EatMagazine
instagram.com/eatmag
www.eatmagazine.ca Sign-up for our Tapas newsletter Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark.
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
5
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 6
CONCIERGE By Rebecca Baugniet
July OAKLANDS SUNSET MARKET (SAANICH) Since its beginning in 2012, the market has grown in size and frequency and now includes up to 50 vendors representing fresh produce, prepared food, hot food, arts and crafts, local non-profits and small businesses. New this season, Oaklands will be introducing Bottles Sales on their off-weeks from Beer Garden nights. This means that twice a month you can taste test your favourite local wineries, breweries, and ciderhouses and take home a bottle or two. Every Wednesday until Sept 2 (no market on July 1), from 4:30-8:30pm. The corner of Belmont Ave. and Ryan St. at Oaklands Community Centre Basketball Courts. (oaklandscommunitycentre.com/markets) THE OAK BAY VILLAGE NIGHT MARKET (OAK BAY) On the second Wednesday in July, August and September, Oak Bay Village becomes a European style market between 4 and 8 pm. Each market features an in-season produce theme with fresh produce from southern Vancouver Island. In 2015 Markets will be held on July 8, August 12 and September 9. (oakbay.ca) VICTORIA DOWNTOWN FARMERS' MARKET (VICTORIA) Homegrown. Handmade. Year Round. Every Wednesday, Saturday & Sunday 11AM-3PM Featuring the region’s best farms, freshest food, friendliest vendors, demonstrations and finest musicians. Come with your re-useable bags and fill up on local goodies. Check out their Vendor Calendar online to see who's coming and when: (victoriapublicmarket.com/market-calendar) ESQUIMALT FARMERS’ MARKET (ESQUIMALT) The Esquimalt Farmers’ Market believes in supporting local growers and producers and those who engage in environmentally sound, farming practices. They want to encourage backyard farmers to help nourish their community with their quality
products. This encourages local sustainability and neighbourly interaction. The market features farm produce and plants, edibles, food trucks and more. Thursday nights from 4.30-8.30pm (esquimaltmarket.com) MOSS STREET MARKET (VICTORIA) 2015 is Moss Street Market’s 24th season of providing local and organic farm-fresh produce, local foods, handmade crafts, artisan clothing, inspiring services and community education to folks from the entire Victoria area and region. May through October, every Saturday, 10am to 2pm, rain or shine. (mossstreetmarket.com) SAANICH STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL (SAANICH) This event originated as a celebration of the agricultural roots of Saanich and has blossomed into a grand festival for all ages. Enjoy an old style family picnic at the beach or take part in a wide range of free family activities. July 12 at Beaver Lake. (saanich.ca) TASTE: VICTORIA’S FESTIVAL OF FOOD AND WINE (VICTORIA) Victoria’s seventh annual Taste festival will uncork Thursday July 16, with an evening tasting of more than 100 British Columbia wines and local cuisine prepared by top Vancouver Island chefs. Not just a wine festival, this culinary tourism experience is an extra long weekend of tastings, seminars and events...a festival with a culinary conscience. Events run through to Sunday, July 19. Tickets sell out quickly. (victoriataste.com). HOUSEGUEST (VICTORIA) Join Houseguest and EAT for 'The Tapa Crawl' – a three venue walking dinner at Chorizo & Co., Perro Negro & Bodega. Special guests Misconduct Wine Co. from Penticton. 6pm, Sunday, July 19th. Tickets and information for all events at: ontheleftcoast.com BREWERY AND THE BEAST (VANCOUVER) Chefs demonstrate their skill and passion for meat through a wide variety of delicious and inspired creations. Local and regional farms provide the highest quality proteins to be featured through various cooking methods. A stellar line up of chefs representing restaurants from Vancouver and Whistler. Whole pig and lamb roasts, charcuterie, smoked meats, ethnic-inspired dishes, classic BBQ, and other full-flavored exotic foods. July 26. (Victoria’s Brewery and the Beast event will take place September 27th) breweryandthebeast.com
Mike Beatty, Chef
f
O REILLEY S @ Po i n t E l l i c e H o u s e
rant New breakfast, lunch & tea menus In-season produce from our own garden
Close to downtown but far away from the world 2616 Pleasant Street, Victoria 250-380-6506 Open Thursday to Monday, 8 am to 4 pm 6
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 7
August The Local General Store 1440 Haultain St Corner of Belmont and Haultain (Haultain Corners) (778) 265-6225 Hours: Monday - Saturday 9:30-6pm
An old-world 21st century general store carrying unique local artisan foods and organic produce, sustainably-sourced household goods, clothing and gifts
AGASSIZ FARMS CYCLE TOURS 2015 (FRASER VALLEY) The 9th annual Agassiz Farms Cycle Tour is planned for Saturday, July 25th. There will be no tour in Chilliwack for 2015. The leisurely self-guided Agassiz Farms Cycle Tour provides an educational and culinary experience exploring many farms; some that are open to the public for this day only. The cycle tour is approximately 25km along flat public roadways. Start and finish your slow cycle any time between 9am-4pm. Please bring cash as most farmers are unable to accept credit cards. (fraservalleycycletours.com)
BODEGA
HOUSEGUEST (VICTORIA) Join Houseguest and EAT for 'The Gulf www.thelocalgeneralstore.ca Islands Showcase'. With special guests Salt Spring Island Cheese (Salt Spring Island), Sea Star Vineyards (Pender Island) and Pilgrimme (Galiano Island). 6pm, Sunday, August 16th. At Catalano (Victoria). Tickets and information for all events at: ontheleftcoast.com NORTH SAANICH FLAVOUR TRAIL (SAANICH) The North Saanich Flavour Trail offers residents and visitors the opportunity to explore and experience Peninsula food and agriculture. This year’s event is billed as the North Saanich Jubilee Flavour Trail & Wine Fest in honour of the 50th anniversary of the official incorporation of the District of North Saanich. August 21-23. (flavourtrails.com) FEAST OF FIELDS (VICTORIA) Feast of Fields is FarmFolk/CityFolk’s annual fundraiser. Net proceeds support their work year round as they help to create a sustainable food system for British Columbia. Not only will guests have a great culinary experience but they will also be investing in a secure food future. The Vancouver Island Feast of Fields will be held Sunday, Sept. 20, from 1-5 pm at O.U.R. Ecovillage, Shawnigan Lake. For ticket purchase information visit the Feast of Fields website. (feastoffields.com). BEST OF THE WEST (VANCOUVER) As part of the Harmony Arts Festival, twelve of the North Shore’s best restaurants will be paired with twelve BC wineries by hosts’ house wine and tasked with creating the perfect complementary dish. The evening’s guests will vote on their favourite, with the winning restaurant and winery team crowned Best of the West for 2015. Aug 5. The festival runs July 31-Aug 9. (harmonyarts.ca) GARLIC FESTIVAL (RICHMOND) The annual garlic festival is pairing with the Chefs to the Field event. Include delicacies from local restaurants and culinary academies, an expanded garlic market, family themed cooking demonstrations, children’s activities, and a mad dash cooking competition with chefs running into the fields to harvest their own ingredients! Aug 23 at the Sharing Farm in Richmond. (garlicfestival.sharingfarm.ca) JOY ROAD CATERING WINEMAKER SERIES (OKANAGAN) Dine with the Valley's leading winemakers in an idyllic vineyard setting overlooking Skaha Lake. Offered on select Thursday evenings this season. (joyroadcatering.com)
FEAST PORTLAND (PORTLAND, OREGON) One of the top food festivals in North America.. hell... the world. Feast Portland is four days of tasting, eating, sipping and learning from the top chefs, wineries, breweries and bartenders in Portland and around the USA in the coolest food city west of the Rockies. Tasting events, hands-on classes, dinner series and beer and wine “drink tanks”. From the opening “Sandwich Invitational” to the hot-ticket “Night Market” to the closing “Crucifery: Vegetables Rock with King Estate Winery” Feast Portland is the must-go event of the fall season. Takes place Sept 17-20. Tickets are on sale now so get them while you can. Packages available, (feastportland.com)
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
7
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 8
g GOOD FOR YOU
By Pam Durkin
Summer Eats Patio food—the healthy way.
EVERY SEASON HAS ITS DISTINCT CULINARY HIGHLIGHTS. Summer’s juicy burgers, hotdogs, fruit pies and ice cream are virtually synonymous with the season. Unfortunately, while these food faves are undeniably delicious, they’re all too often less than “good for you.” Don’t despair—you can enjoy these seasonal treats without derailing your diet. Here’s how.
Burgers Yes, burgers can be part of a healthy eating plan. The key is to watch portion size and make them from scratch, using quality meats with no more than 10 percent fat. If your budget allows it, opt for grass-fed beef. When compared to conventional beef, grass-fed beef not only tastes better, it also has less total fat, more heart-healthy omega3 fatty acids and more antioxidant vitamins. However, you don’t have to rely solely on beef—or blow your budget—to create a healthy burger. Lean-ground turkey, lamb, bison, pork and fish all make tasty and nutritious patties. In addition, the Internet boasts a plethora of vegetarian burger recipes that even carnivores will love. To enhance the nutritional profile of your lean ’n’ luscious patty, nix the mayo and top
LOCAATION The Hudson Building 1701 Douglas Street, Victoria LOCATION Victoria OPERATION HOURS OF OPERA ATION TIO Tues–Sat TION Tues–Sat 10–5:30 Sun 11–5 ONLY NLLYY Mon 10–5:30* *SELECT VENDORS ONL
it with condiments such as salsa, grilled fruits and veggies and avocado slices. Serve your creation in a wholegrain bun and you’ve got a wholesome summertime meal. (For a healthy burger experience when dining out, I recommend The Pink Bicycle and Bubby’s Kitchen in Victoria.)
Hot Dogs Forget those pseudo-meat supermarket hotdogs. (Seriously, forget them.) There’s a new breed of dog on show at your local meat market, and while it may never achieve “superfood” status, it can be a healthy and reliable source of quality protein and micronutrients. Several local meat shops are meeting consumer’s demands for healthier fare and creating filler- and preservative-free hotdogs made from 100 percent lean beef, pork or poultry. Halal Meats and Deli, for instance, makes a superb version from organic, grass-fed beef. If beef doesn’t appeal, consider the free-range turkey dogs whipped up by the good folks at Slater’s. For traditionalists, there’s the 100 percent antibiotic-, hormone- and gluten-free pork wiener on offer at Choux Choux Charcuterie. Three exceptions to the supermarket rule: Island Bison’s “grass-fed bison dogs”, Yves vegetarian tofu dogs and Tofurky’s Meatless Kielbasa—which make an amazingly yummy “hot dog” for non-meat eaters that’s about the size of a smokie. provide all-out nutrition without compromising on taste. Victoria’s top “restaurant dog”—a deliciously seasoned, grass-fed beef creation—can be had at Bubby’s Kitchen.
Fruit Pies Sadly, in addition to succulent taste, the average slice of fruit pie delivers an abundance of calories, sugar and saturated fat. The antidote lies in giving your pies a healthy makeover. Start by replacing the butter or lard most crust recipes call for with heart-healthy canola oil. To further enhance your shell’s nutritional profile, opt for fibre-rich wholewheat flour instead of refined white flour. Alternatively, to really curb calories and fat, try wholewheat phyllo dough. It’s light and airy but still lends pies a wonderful buttery “crunch.” And remember, whatever type of pastry you use, more crust means more calories and fat—so opt for a bottom shell only. When it comes to the filling, let the natural sweetness of summer fruit do the work. There’s no need to be heavy-handed with the sugar. In fact, there’s no need to use sugar at all. You can easily replace it with a healthier sweetener like honey, maple syrup or agave. Don’t fret if pastry making simply isn’t in your skill set—some of B.C.’s best bakers have you covered. I adore the healthy fruit pies (also gluten-free!) from Origin Bakery (downtown and Colwood) and the Wendell’s in Langley supplies to stores all over BC.
8
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
E
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 9
stonewall kitchen
Aioli Distr Distributed ibuted ted by Do Dovre ovre Import Import & Expor Exportt Ltd. | p: p: Bridgeport 13931 Br idgeport Road
It’s more than just a mayonnaise
800.370.3850
| e: e : sales@dovreimport.com sales@dovreimport.com | www www.dovreimport.com w.dovreimport.com
hmond, BC V6V 1J6 | m a d | Ric Richmond, dee in m a in e | stonewallkitchen.com
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
9
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 10
g CRAFT By Sol Kauffman
On The Cutting Edge Oak Bay has the greatest density of butcher shops in the city. Meet the butchers that keep the skills alive.
Slater’s First Class Meats, 2577 Cadboro Bay Rd. (250) 592-0823 This shop has been around since 1954 and has had a number of owners, but all of them have maintained the professional style and family atmosphere of the original. Spotless white shirts, ties, and crisp aprons add a sense of class that harkens back to the 20th century. Most of the current staff has worked there for over a decade. “We’re on a first-name basis with the majority of our customers,” says part owner Geoff Martin. “They come in, we’re asking about their families, they’re asking about ours, it’s a very tight-knit community.” Slater’s supplies some of Victoria’s most popular restaurants, including Brasserie L’Ecole, Café Brio, and Il Terrazzo, and the staff’s experience makes for great shopping. “Whether it’s us or another local butcher shop, you’re getting a level of expertise that’s higher than you’ll get at a larger store.”
right: SLATERS MEATS: Left to right: Richard Doyle, Aaron MacEachern, Cameron Doyle and Geoff Martin. middle: THE WHOLE BEAST: Shane Harwood, Nick McGee and Cory Pelan. right: THE VILLAGE BUTCHER: Owner/operator Michael Windle.
Sol Kauffman
O
ak Bay may have the reputation for being the oldest neighbourhood in a city already considered antique. Nevertheless, in light of our growing interest in what we eat and where it comes from, this municipality has attracted the city’s greatest density of butcher shops that are all hard at work taking the practice of meat cutting back from the commercial meat processing corporations. “In the last couple years I’ve seen a huge rise in people’s interest,” says Michael Windle, owner/operator of the Village Butcher. “In my lifetime, certainly in the last 40-45 years, the trend commercially has been towards centralized production, factory farming, just a lot of poor, unsustainable methods … What we do now is way more old fashioned, but it’s somehow new thinking again.” Standalone butcher shops pay their bills by turning entire animals into a vast array of different products. Rather than a factory full of unskilled employees and dangerous machines, a local butcher offers advice, options, and a guarantee of quality. These three shops represent both the old and new school, and all of them offer the kind of unique, friendly, and knowledgeable experience you’ll seldom find elsewhere.
Village Butcher, 2032 Oak Bay Ave. 250-598-1115 Owner Michael Windle has been in the business for almost twelve years, the last four in their current location. A training ground for culinary school graduates, Michael’s shop focuses on supporting local, sustainable, and humanitarian animal husbandry. “I deal directly with farmers, I tell them what my customers expectations are for the animals’ lifestyle, the animals’ diet, the farmer tells me what it’s gonna cost to do that, and then I essentially promise to buy everything that farmer can produce,” he says. “My job is then to ensure that these young trainees learn how to turn all of it into usable products.” The Village Butcher is also the place to go to explore new cuts and lesser-known parts of the animal: everything from pigs’ feet to underrated steaks. The Whole Beast, 2032 Oak Bay Ave. 250-590-PORK (7675) Not a traditional butcher, Cory Pelan has spent the last four years running an artisanal salumeria in the space he shares with the Village Butcher. “The main thing that separates us from those guys is they sell fresh meat and we sell cured meat, ready to eat,” says Cory. “We’re just making the best stuff we can with the highest quality ingredients using old world techniques.” The Beast is perfect for charcuterie plates or snacks for hiking or camping, thanks to their handmade products, created with “natural smoke, passion, care, and attention” and without any fillers or unnecessary additives. Cory credits the neighbourhood with keeping his dream alive. “The neighbourhood’s been fantastic… Oak Bay really wants to believe in the businesses that are here, they know they’re getting the best that we can give them for a price that’s fair, that’ll allow us to still be here tomorrow, and allow them to go home with a good product.” E
LEAVE ROOM FOR THE WICK Meals are like the punctuation marks of a great trip. They give shape to the narrative of your adventure. We encourage you to explore Tofino and then come visit us at the Wickaninnish Inn to enjoy fresh baked pastries in the morning, a lovingly prepared picnic lunch, or a dinner at The Pointe Restaurant that will put an exclamation point on your time here. @TasteWickInnBC
10
The Pointe Restaurant 250.725.3106
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
tel 1.800.333.4604
www.wickinn.com
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 11
g FOOD MATTERS
By Julie Pegg
The Grand Salad
Just say no to wimpy greens. Summer’s bounty deserves the “big salad” treatment. I’VE HAD MY FILL OF MOST CLAMSHELL GREENS. They are tasteless (were they always?), and after a couple of days, I get fed up picking out the wilted, slimy, smelly bits. Unless I am using them immediately for a simple green salad anointed with light vinaigrette, I depend on sturdier greens such as kale (hardly a surprise), savoy and green cabbages, arugula, chard, curly endive and flat-leaf parsley for making salads. I’ve even gone back to iceberg lettuce (wedged and dressed with homemade blue cheese and diced bacon), butter lettuce (whole leaves layered, drizzled with mustard vinaigrette and scattered with chopped, hard-cooked egg and diced red onion), and romaine (I love it grilled, topped with Parmigiano shavings and a very garlicky dressing). Often I’ll omit greens altogether and “compose” a crunchy salad from a variety of stuff—cucumber, zucchini, celery, carrot, pepper, tiny sweet tomatoes, beets, celeriac, corn, nugget potatoes, toasted bread and beans, chickpeas and lentils. On a recent trip to France and the U.K., I noshed on some terrific “composed” or “grandes” salads. I intend to rip off or riff on making each one. There aren’t many tourists at Brasserie Le QG in Reims. And if there were, they might pass on the salade de gésiers—tender chicken gizzards and nugget potatoes, warmly dressed and tossed amongst escarole leaves. Gizzards are difficult to come by in our neck of the woods. I’m hoping a good butcher can supply me with a few. (If you’re expecting Quebecois visitors, get them to pop a tin or cryovac pack of confit gizzards into their suitcase.) If not, substituting sautéed and sliced chicken livers should do the trick. If the chicken’s nasty bits are a turnoff, go for sliced duck breast or sausage.
A generous chopped flat-leaf parsley, capers and shallots salad proved more than just a garnish for beefy marrow bones at Le Boulingrin on the rue de Mars in Reims. I found out I like it as a stand-alone or sidled up to a grilled chicken thigh, pork loin chop or trout. And at Brasserie Flo, just a few minutes’ walk away, local lentils cooked to risotto-like consistency and embellished with a poached golden-yoked egg was served chilled as a dinner starter—brilliant with blanc de noirs champagne. But I filed that pairing under “Great brunch dish. Cheese and macarons to follow.” London’s Maltby Street Market is the place to stroll and street-eat these days. On a sunny Saturday, my gustatory GPS takes me directly to 40 Maltby Street. The place is jammed. Peering over people’s heads to read the blackboard, I notice that parsley, this time united with roasted cauliflower and crusty bread, is on the menu. Salt, sour, sweet and bitter from the mackerel, fennel and blood orange is a taste sensation and no word other than “delicious” describes a mix of Jersey royal potatoes, pea shoots and fresh curd. Back in Vancouver, I stumble on a 2014 Guardian review of 40 Maltby Street by Marina O’Loughlin, who waxes almost poetic on the eatery. She raves about “poached leeks with tiny shrimp paddling in an excellent, delicate, lemony mayonnaise.” Sorry I missed that one. To market and fishmonger I go, so I can have a try at pulling it together. After an Italian sojourn a year ago, I went quite bonkers “making up” versions of panzanella. Made from tomatoes at their juiciest, ripest peak, stale rustic bread and real extra virgin olive oil, this simple Tuscan bread salad is inarguably exquisite. I’ve grilled bread, charred and skinned red peppers (and sometimes grilled zucchini). I’ve also been known to add roasted olives or a knob of fiori di latte mozzarella to the mix. No doubt I’m guilty of panzanella heresy, but these added fillips make a darn fine salad. By all means, I will snip away at the cut-and-come-again greens in my garden for a nice leafy salad over the summer. I also intend having a field day composing main event salads. I’m off to look for fresh tuna (instead of tinned) to sear for one of the season’s best—Salade Niçoise. Ta-ra and bon appétit! (Lacking imagination? Fish out or find a copy of the 1983 Silver Palate Cookbook. No fewer than 40 salads and 15 dressings should get the creative juices flowing.) E
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
11
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 12
g GET FRESH
By Sylvia Weinstock
Blueberries
ENJOY OUR FRESH SUMMER MENU SERVED ON THE
top rated patio in Victoria!
R EER OEE BBEE LLEE NO AN C CA ABB ILA A AIL
V AV WA OW N NO
dia at Casca r Liquo !
AS I WRITE THIS IN THE BEGINNING OF MAY, my beautiful highbush and lowbush blueberry bushes are adorned with delicate white bell-shaped flowers. If all goes well, each little bell will become a blueberry, ready for harvesting in July and August. I won’t be sharing any berries with birds or deer. The bushes, tucked into their own acidic bed with pine needles and peat moss, are safely ensconced within a netted enclosure, and deer can’t access my backyard. As the bushes progress from flower to fruit, I dream of delicious concoctions I’ll make with my sweet crop of beneficial berries. Blueberries have extraordinary healing properties because they contain ellagic acid and two blue fruit pigments—anthocyanin and anthocyanoside. Anthocyanin and ellagic acid have potent antioxidant actions. Anthocyanoside has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects and is a tonic for the circulation system. Eating blueberries can help protect our hearts, eyes and brains. The sweet, sour and astringent tastes of blueberries are ideal for both sweet and savoury dishes. I have two favourite ways of reducing blueberries down to their uber-blueberriest essence. One is blueberry gastrique, which can be drizzled over pork tenderloin, duck breast, chicken or fish. I combine two cups of blueberries, a cup of balsamic vinegar, a cup of brown sugar and a quarter of a cup of water in a saucepan, allowing the mixture to reduce over low heat for twenty to forty minutes until it coats a spoon and is half its original volume. My other fave lip-smacking reduction is a glaze for basting barbecued spareribs. I slow-cook seven cups of blueberries, half a cup of brown sugar, a cup each of balsamic and red wine vinegars, a bottle of stout, a smashed garlic clove, a sliced onion, a chopped habanero pepper and a tablespoon each of coriander, cumin, ground coffee, and chipotle powder. After cooking the glaze over low heat for up to two hours, I puree it (reserving some for serving) and brush it on the ribs while they are grilling. In keeping with my gluten-free and dairy-free diet, I’ll make raw vegan cashew blueberry cheesecake—the “cheese” is made from soaked raw cashews. Another annual summer indulgence is blueberry coconut milk “ice cream,” a blend of blueberries, coconut milk and sugar whipped up in my ice cream maker. For breakfast, I’ll sip blueberry green smoothies, made with greens from my garden, and savour buckwheat flour blueberry pancakes with homemade blueberry syrup, and banana blueberry quinoa flour muffins. I’ll use some of my strawberry crop to make strawberryblueberry jam, so I can enjoy the tastes of my summer garden through the winter. The rich flavour and seedless soft texture of blueberries really shines in baked desserts. You can buckle, crumble, or crisp them, or use them to create scrumptious clafoutis, galettes, blintzes, trifles and strudels. Their flavour mingles beautifully with sweet-tart strawberries and raspberries, sour-acidic lemons, sweet nectarines and peaches, creamy mascarpone and clotted cream, and sour-tart goat cheese and sour cream. While the blueberries ripen from purple to deep blue, hazed with a silvery bloom, I’ll be dreaming up new dishes to make with these sweet juicy berries. E
Cold Blueberry Beet Borsht
450 swift street | victoria bc
12
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
canoebrewpub.com
2 medium-sized beets, peeled and diced 2 ¾ cups of blueberries 4 cups of water 2 Tbsp sugar 1 Tbsp sugar ½ cup red wine 1 cinnamon stick ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
Place all ingredients in a stock pot. Boil 20 minutes, or until beets are tender. Remove cinnamon stick. Cool and puree mixture in a blender until smooth. Chill. Adjust seasonings. Serve with a dollop of sour cream and a few whole blueberries.
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 13
g EPICURE AT LARGE
By Jeremy Ferguson
VOTED BEST WINE STORE Eat Magazine 2015
Hellfire and Chilies
Westerners proceed with caution when entering this galvanizing realm of fire and flavour. FIRST, LET ME TELL YOU ABOUT THE “MAN WHO WENT TO HELL”. He was the food and beverage director for an internationally renowned luxe hotel chain. One day, he showed up at the Thai kitchen in the Bangkok property. Inspecting the premises, he snatched a handful of tiny, innocent-looking red chilies. The kitchen brigade pleaded for him to stop, but he overruled them and downed the lot. Two minutes later, he was sprawled on the floor, pounding and bawling. The offending nibble was prik ki nu (PKN), whose translation is “rat’s turd” chili pepper. It’s so named, a Thai chef told me, not because of its aroma or taste, but because of its shape. Now that we’ve cleared that up, it’s also the fieriest chili in Thailand and one of the two hottest chilies you’re likely to encounter. At Toronto’s venerable Golden Thai restaurant, I once ordered a Thai martini with a single PKN marinating in the glass. I swear, flames shot out my mouth and nostrils. For the only time in my life, I was unable to finish a drink. Like most other chilies, this Thai sweetheart likely originated in the Peruvian Andes, was transplanted to Europe by the Spanish and introduced to Southeast Asia by the Portuguese. The Thais have made it their own. In any restaurant in Thailand, the table condiment is prik nam pla, fermented fish sauce scattered with chopped prik ki nu. The Westerner proceeds cautiously and enters a galvanizing realm all fire and flavour. Still hotter on the Scoville Scale—a system that measures and compares chili heat— is the habanero. If the Thai chili can fire to 250,000 units on Scoville, the habanero can soar to 350,000. That is, up to 140 times hotter than a jalapeño from a Victoria supermarket. It originated, of course, in the Andean hothouse, where archaeologists have unearthed an 8,500-year-old habanero. In 1999, it made The Guinness Book of World Records as hottest pepper in the world but has since been usurped: The champion Carolina Reaper registers a nuclear 2,200,000 on the Scoville meter. Western forces in Syria might consider dropping it on ISIS. Foodies travelling in Mexico and Central America know the habanero, its slightly floral aroma, somewhat citrusy flavour and unapologetic fire. Caribbean travellers will remember its cousin, the Scotch bonnet pepper, a variety of habanero essential to racy Jamaican jerk and curry dishes. Maybe the most intimidating hot sauce, made in Costa Rica and using both habaneros and Scotch bonnets, is aptly titled “One FucKin Drop At A Time Hot Sauce.” And yes, chili fire is addictive. Chilies contain capsaicin, a chemical that leaps from mouth to brain. The body goes into defence mode by secreting endorphins, natural painkillers that bring on a certain high. We chili lovers will happily testify to this. Here in Victoria, habaneros have become so common you’ll find them at Root Cellar, Thrifty Foods and other mainstream markets. The Markets on Yates and Goldstream have both habaneros and the Thai fire bomb. Local restaurants offer restrained introductions: The Caribbean Village Cafe in Quadra Village uses Scotch bonnets in spicy chicken, curried patties and chutneys. Trini to D Bone on Burnside near Admirals chooses the habanero to sauce its rotis. The Reef on Yates uses habaneros to zap its house condiment, Miss Kitty’s Sauce, and in a hot-and-sweet marmalade accompanying coconut prawns. At home, we use Scotch bonnets to spike a rich, thick Jamaican pumpkin soup, habaneros in Mexican sauces and PKNs in Southeast Asian curries. Finally a warning: wear gloves when you prep. Otherwise, oil from the peppers can leech out into your fingers and palms. After prepping Scotch bonnets with unprotected hands, I hopped in the shower, where I proceeded to scratch myself in a specifically masculine way. My piteous falsetto cries rose over the shower curtains and roared through the halls. I was The Other Man Who Went to Hell. E
fire upthe grillwith
seasonalfeatures ice & freeice RESIDENT EXPERTS , LOCALWIT BEERS SURPRISING SELECTION OF ROSÉWINES
FRESH FR RESH H L VE NOW OPEN NOW FOR L LUNCH The Mari Marina Restaurant is proud to offer the only 100% Ocean Oce W Wise ssushi bar on V ancouver Island. s sland. Vancouver
250 598 25 5 8 8555 | www www.marinarestaurant.com .m marinarestaurant.com t om 1327 BEACH DRIVE A AT T THE OAK AK BA BAY Y MARIN MARINA
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
13
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 14
REPORTER
RESTAURANTS | CAFES | SHOPPING
Rebecca Wellman
left: Chef Paolo Corazza on the left and owner Alberto Pozzolo on the right. above: Cannelloni alla sorrentina
Italian Bakery |3197 Quadra St., | 250-388-4557 | italianbakeryvictoria.com Like a phoenix emerging from the ashes, the Italian Bakery, a mainstay in the community since 1978, is back. After a kitchen fire closed the establishment for 14 months, the bakery has been reborn with a fresh new face, a new kitchen and an expansive menu of savoury items to match the breads and sweets. Owner and head baker Alberto Pozzolo has taken on his family’s legacy, having trained in the bakery alongside his father as a young child, plus stints baking and learning the art of gelato-making in a small town near Torino in the Piedmonte, the region from which the family hails. The year-plus closure allowed Pozzolo to properly plan the bakery’s redesign, source a new four-deck oven and install a hood fan to accommodate deep frying and proper cooking. The kitchen is now three-tiered: a section for savoury (including a pasta machine), one for pastry and cakes (with gelato machine), and one for breads. Fans will find all their favourite Italian breads, including focaccia, olive-studded loaves, ciabatta (great for sandwiches) and panfiore, plus the addition of long fermented organic whole wheat and sourdough loaves. The Piedmonte region borders France and draws on French influences. Hence, you’ll find baguettes on offer (going by the name spilungone), as well as croissants and profiteroles. The roster also includes a new daily lunch menu overseen by chef Paolo Corazza. His roots are also in the Piemont region and he's no stranger to the Italian kitchen. He learned the trade, growing up in Toronto, where his father, uncle and godfather all had restaurants. Corazza eventually
14
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
opened his own place, Brunello, in St. Petersburg Beach, Florida, before moving to Victoria 12 years ago. Expect a daily soup, a very shareable multi-ingredient panini, specials like the classic eggplant parmigiana or Nonna’s meatballs, healthy salads of radicchio and fennel, daily pizzette and paninettos (the Italian slider) filled with big flavoured ingredients such as pork confit, caramelized onions, brie and gorgonzola butter. Customers can take their treats home or settle into one of the 25 seats to enjoy a casual lunch. On weekends, the bakery offers dinners for two to go: two portions of fresh pasta with house marinara sauce, for example, is just cook, heat and combine. And it comes with a baguette. All you need is a bottle of Sangiovese and you’re set! Nests of egg pasta and gnocchi are made in-house daily, and with a good selection of Italian cooking staples on the shelves, la dolce vita is never too far away. I particularly love the bakery’s traditional Italian cookie selection, elegant diminutive treats with sweet names such as baci di dama (lady’s kisses) or brutti ma buoni (ugly but good), along with classic cornetti, biscotti and cannoli—tube-shaped crispy fried pastry dough filled with sweetened ricotta cream. They’re the perfect size to accompany an espresso or two in the afternoon. The bakery pulls their shots from a vintage Gaggia machine, fuelled by locally roasted 2% Jazz beans. Further sweet tooth cravings are satisfied by tiramisu, classic chocolate cake with buttercream icing, profiteroles or house-made gelato in 18 flavours from mouth-puckering lemon to silky smooth mango. As the phoenix rises, the legacy continues. E BY SHELORA SHELDAN
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 15
Wild Mountain Food & Drink 1831 Maple Ave., Sooke | 250-642-3596 | wildmountaindinners.com
Rebecca Wellman
left: Albacore tuna with sweet cicely, white anchovy, radish, and ling cod brandade right: Owners Brooke Fader and Oliver Kienast It’s a dream come true for sommelier Brooke Fader and chef Oliver Kienast. After running a series of pop-up dinners under the Wild Mountain moniker and working in various restaurants over the years, most recently Sooke Harbour House, Wild Mountain Food & Drink has put down permanent roots in Sooke. The couple, who have lived and farmed in West Sooke for the past 10 years, purchased Markus’ Wharfside Restaurant, along with its adjoining one-bedroom home and established gardens. The previous owners, chef Markus Wieland and Tatum Claypool, enjoyed 12 successful years at the location and are now exploring their own paths (he in the Fraser Valley and Tatum in Saskatchewan). Very little was needed to get the restaurant up and running: a fresh coat of paint in pale blue to mimic the outside sky views from the large picture window, a wooden bar— with resin tidal pool—from salvaged Grand fir, woven wood sconces and a turntable for playing vinyl. All have transformed the space into their own. “We wanted to make a place that we could hang out in five days a week,” says Fader, who oversees the front of house. Both are welcoming hosts and passionate advocates of food sustainability, which is reflected in a casual and locally focused menu of snacks, appetizers and mains that draw from Sooke area farms, including their own, sustainable seafood sources and meats from Sloping Hill Farm in Qualicum Beach. Theirs is an everyday kind of place where you can pop in for a quick bite at the bar, share a few appetizers with a glass of wine or celebrate a special occasion with multiple courses. To explore the menu, we shared three appetizers. The Sooke clams in cider broth with housemade pork sausage, celery and fennel was a lovely start, followed by the duck plate trio of rillettes and jam, smoked breast and house pickled carrots, then duck liver mousse, an exploration of textures and techniques. So too, the albacore tuna appetizer of seared slices with an anise hit of sweet cicely alongside a crispy brandade with a cured egg yolk for added richness, and hand-chopped tuna tartare with radishes for crunch. We ended with a main dish of grilled pork tenderloin served with a moreish cheese curd polenta, pickled red cabbage and brassica shoots. Kienast’s cooking is never heavy-handed; it’s skilled, creative and balanced with an emphasis on fresh ingredients and simple combinations. The drinks list further reflects the couple’s sustainable commitment to Island craft brews, spirits and sodas, and wines that are strictly small lots, handpicked and natural with low intervention. “If you’re Slow Food, you should be Slow Wine,” says Fader, a Slow Food leader and founding member of Slow Fish. “Ollie’s food is gentle and nuanced,” she says, “and the wine is gentle and nuanced.” I couldn’t agree more. The Okanagan’s Synchromesh 2014 Riesling was a brilliant match for all the dishes we enjoyed. Luscious takeout treats such as duck liver mousse, chocolate pudding or Wild Mountain honey, sold in mason jars, completes the dream. E BY SHELORA SHELDAN
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
15
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 16
g EATING WELL FOR LESS
Panini, Perogies & Patties By Elizabeth Monk
***Listen to Elizabeth Monk on Kool 107.3 radio at 8:30am, Monday July 6th
Savoury lunchtime bites from far-off lands.
Elizabeth Nyland
Elizabeth Nyland
left: Owner/baker Claudio Costi right: Foccacina
La Tana 101-3 Fan Tan Alley at Pandora Ave. | 250-920-6213 surrounding the explosive flavours of prosciutto cotto, tomato, mozzarella and oregano. Everything so far is under $5 for a single serving, and panini sandwiches are not much more at $5.45. A cultural note: panini in Northern Italy are not grilled, and so they are not grilled here. When the bread gets grilled there, it can be because the bread is old or frozen. However, your cheese can be melted if you ask. My “carpaccio” sandwich featured a cured beef called bresaola, arugula, Parmesan and, intriguingly, a paper-thin slice of lime. The thin layer of fillings packed a flavour punch thanks to their quality and intensity (most of the meats here are from The Whole Beast). Dainty pastries and rustic breads are also sold here. The Sfilatino, made with figs and walnuts, is wonderful with cheese. La Tana is more than a place for food—it is a cultural experience.
Stir It Up
760A Yates St. in Odeon Alley | 778-432-0133
Natalie Justin-Tatem knows how to handle a mortar and pestle. She mixes her own spices for the flavourful dishes at the Caribbean restaurant Stir It Up in the alley down from the Odeon theatre. Fernwooders will recognize the name. Stir It Up used to occupy a nook in Fernwood Square. It has now expanded while still retaining the colourful décor and coziness of its previous incarnation. It seats only 12, but takeout and catering business is brisk. The classics she ate in her childhood in St Lucia are all here. The Stuffed Patty with Pork is only $2.50 and is different from the usual. It is sliced open like a sandwich and has both ground beef and spicy chunks of pork—and plenty of them, I must say. This is not just a smear of meat like some disappointing patties I’ve had in the past. The seasonings are lively, with thyme, peppercorn, allspice, garlic and plenty of onions and ginger. The spice mix gets even more exciting in the Jerk Chicken with Rice and Peas, which goes for $11. Here she blends paprika, curry Cont’d next page
16
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
Elizabeth Nyland
Farinata, schiacciatine, focaccia, panini—these are just some of the authentic Italian breads and savouries brought to you by Claudio Costi, originally from Milan and now, thankfully, from Victoria. His name might ring a bell. For a while he was selling his breads at markets and delivering to businesses from his bicycle. He now has actual bricks and mortar in a charming nook at the entrance to Fan Tan Alley from Pandora Street. Farinata is a delicious, moist and mealy pancake made of chickpea flour, extra-virgin olive oil and sea salt. You can transform it into an openfaced sandwich with arugula, tomato and gorgonzola, or other toppings. Schiacciatine are fresh-made crackers flavoured with sesame seed, paprika or rosemary, and sold by weight. For a snack or a lunch, my world shifted when I tried the Focaccia Farcita, light, paper-thin, flaky crusts
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 17
Elizabeth Nyland
left: Fried Plantains, black beans and rice with chicken gravy, jerk chicken thigh, sautéed fresh vegetables right: Colourful decor. leaves, thyme, jerra (cooked cumin), cinnamon, nutmeg and, her special twist, essential oils of allspice and nutmeg. This is rubbed and cooked on the chicken, which is beautifully crisped up and served with fried plantain as well as rice. The yellow sauce that comes with it is complex and uninhibited, containing four different hot peppers picked from Justin-Tatem’s own garden. In the category of massive as well as tasty is the Curry Chicken Roti for $10. This roti/pancake, made with coconut oil, is toasted, giving the meal an enjoyable crunch. Inside is both a potato curry and a chicken curry, and the accompanying tamarind chutney has tingles of nutmeg and ginger. Fridays and Saturdays are the days for the more exotic specials of curry goat, oxtail and the like. Do try the ginger juice, and do phone ahead for the hours as they are in transition.
OLO is a farm-to-table restaurant with a focus on local, sustainably raised ingredients, complemented by an impressive beverage list and perfectly mixed cocktails. Open seven days a week & late night Sunday to Thursday 6pm – 12am Friday and Saturday 5pm – 1am 509 Fisgard Street, Victoria, BC (250) 590-8795 | www.olorestaurant.com
Taste of Europe Deli
1412 Douglas St. near Johnson | 778-432-4898
Elizabeth Nyland
Owner/cook Chris Zmuda Chris Zmuda of Taste of Europe Deli has the packaging for some Cheemo brand perogies tacked to the wall near his cash register, with a big angry X across it in thick red felt-tip marker. This is a man who takes his perogies seriously. Some may call him passionate on the topic. Some may call him downright irascible. But the bottom line is that he makes good perogies served in generous portions. A plate of four perogies plus Polish sausage goes for $8. These perogies are plump
and pillowy and double the size of the aforementioned unmentionable ones. Since size does matter, we’re talking three inches on the straight side. I chose potato and cheese filling, but there are several other variations, involving pork, onions, mushrooms and sauerkraut. The firm and flavourful sausage comes from a Polish smokehouse on the mainland, along with other meats he sells at the deli counter. Some of the plates include soup, or soup can be bought separately for $3.50 or $4.99. Try the sauerkraut soup—it has the same perfect sourness balance as a good Chinese hot and sour soup, with big bites of beef and cabbage in it. Chris Zmuda vaunted this soup as capable of trimming belly fat, which is probably a good thing since I’ve never known green vegetables to figure prominently in East European cuisine. For dessert or a (very) decadent dinner, the sweet cheese crêpes are two for $6.99 and stuffed with a sweetened dry farmer’s cheese and blueberries, then topped with strawberry jam and whipped cream. There is plenty of food in the store freezer to simply heat up at home, most intriguing of which is the Pickle Soup, which I will defrost next time I am opening up a package of Cheemo … no! Just kidding! Don’t tell Chris.
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
17
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 18
Heron Rock Bistro 9AM-10PM Monday to Friday 8:30AM-10PM Saturday & Sunday
Happy Hour 7 Nights 8pm to Close 250-383-1545 CORNER OF CROFT & SIMCOE IN JAMES BAY WWW.HERONROCKBISTRO.CA
HAPPY HOUR 7 Days 2:3--5:30pm
Open 7 Days 11am -11pm 10pm on Sunday to Wednesday Weekend 9am for Brunch
Lunch, Dinner, Local Beer & Wine 250-590-4556 4136 WILKINSON RD WWW.CROOKEDGOOSEBISTRO.CA
Far East Feasts
Food writer Shelora Sheldan goes in search of authentic Chinese flavours, sampling everything from Shanxi flatbreads and Sichuan fish hotpots to rustic Taiwanese dumplings and classic Cantonese comfort foods along the way. Photos by Rebecca Wellman
T
he People’s Republic of China encompasses a diverse and vast landscape, from forest to desert to sub-tropical regions, all reflecting a depth of regional culinary differences, traditions, ingredients and cooking styles. While Victoria can’t compete with Richmond’s Asian culinary offerings (everything from strip mall noodle joints to palatial banquet rooms) there is an adventure of taste waiting right here at home. Here are five of my favourite rooms: some are new with modern décor, others celebrate food over décor, but they all offer a glimpse into China’s culinary diversity that’s guaranteed to whet your appetite and pique your palate’s curiosity. It’s food cooked with passionate honesty and a lot of soul. And it doesn’t get any better than that.
Hong Kong West The location, near a busy street corner near the Royal Jubilee Hospital, and minimalist signage, means I’d driven by it countless times, as I’m sure you have. But I had long heard about the authentic Sichuan dishes being served by the Li family, and I was ready to dig in – but what to order? With little description on the menu, I learned to hone in on what other diners are eating. One of my favourites is the fish hotpot, a shareable, multi-layered dish with an earthy, soulsatisfying broth hidden beneath a tangle of bean sprouts and fish. Add to that, intensely fragrant and citrusy Sichuan peppercorns and an inferno of ground chile oil to fire the taste buds, and you have heaven in a bowl. Speaking of the celestial, the dark red plum-shaped Szechuan Chicken “facing heaven” chile pepper is distinct to Sichuan cuis ine, and it’s featured front and centre on many dishes here. The crispy chicken, for example, presented with a lustre of chile oil, and a seeming overdose of those chiles, whole or in large pieces, can produce fear to the uninitiated. But their flavour imparts brightness and only a mild warming heat. (Take note: You’re not expected to eat them!) The vegetable dishes are as intriguing as they are delicious: classic Sichuanese shredded potatoes, tossed in vinegar and a bit of chile, maintain their crunch with no starchiness, and the flashfried green beans with a fermented relish of olive leaves and mustard greens add an addictive hit of umaminess. This is the real deal. 1807 Fort St., 250-598-1352
La Tea Ah/Lee’s House Restaurant Two distinct rooms offer a wonderful selection of home cooked Taiwanese cuisine. The cozy bright green La Tea Ah Fort Street interior suggests snack bar with few tables and bar seating, versus the expansive Lee’s House room with outdoor patio that accommodates families and groups of students from nearby UVic. Bubble tea, a Taiwanese invention, features prominent, and dishes such as sauce pork over rice, minced pork with pork belly flavoured with five-spice and soy, and beef noodle soup
18
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 19
are traditional and immensely popular, but it’s the Lee family’s homemade dumplings that have garnered a cult following. Three thousand of these buoyant, northern-style beauties are made, by hand, every week by owner Angela Lee’s parents. The dough is flour and water, left to rest, then kneaded and rolled out into individual rounds, ensuring that the middle remains thicker than the outer edges so as to securely hold the ingredients. Filled with either chopped Napa cabbage and pork, beef with Chinese chives, or minced pork, prawns and celery, they’re made with careful precision, boiled to order and served with a drizzle of sesame oil and a soy dipping sauce enhanced with toasty flecks of garlic. Potstickers, also housemade, are not the usual crescent shape here but Shrimp Dumpling and fashioned lengthwise with open ends. Pork Pot Stickers. They’r e cooked and seared with a bit of stock and rock sugar to impart a caramelized crust. Welcome to your new addictions! 774 Fort St., 250-590-4150 (teahouse); 3960 Shelbourne St., 778-432-2111 (restaurant)
Xiang Rui Owners and cooks Owen Guo and Maggie Ma hail from northern Shanxi province, famed for its wide rice noodle dishes and flatbreads, among other things. The couple offers an extensive menu with many Cantonese favourites, but their regional dishes are a big draw. The wide rice noodle salad, served cold, is beautifully presented with
Victoria’s premier farmers market
Moss St. Market
Saturdays 10am to 2pm
with over 25 local organic farmers left: Rice Noodle with Vegetables and Chinese Pork Hamburger. right: Owners Maggie Ma and Owen Guo cucumber and bean sprouts in a chile oil and vinegar dressing—deliriously refreshing with a surprisingly even gentle heat. This is one of my new summertime go-to dishes. Their housemade yeasted flatbreads, listed on the menu as “Chinese Hamburgers,” are sliced and stuffed with your choice of meat. I’ve tried all three: the chicken, seasoned with cumin and hints of clove; the pork with a good balance of juicy meat and fatty bits; and thin sliced beef with a distinct salty hit along with five-spice seasoning. Service is informed and gracious. 980 Blanshard St., 778-433-3696 Cont’d on the next page
Over 100 stalls
LOCAL
Farms, Foo d Art, Crafts , & Fun
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
19
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 20
The best sunsets don’t happen at street level.
- R E S E RV E N O W-
250-382-9258
he 7 40 Bur B dett Ave, Ave, Inside tthe 740 Burdett Chateau Victoria Victoria Chateau
VIS VISTA18.COM TA18.COM
PHOTO: TRAVELING ISLANDERS
Loy Sing Meat Market Whole barbecued ducks and whole roasts of pork, proudly displayed in the window, are two of the mainstays of this Chinatown purveyor with a 130-year history. Owners Daniel and Shelley Zheng have run Loy Sing since 1994 after Daniel had been a co-owner with Shelley’s uncle. Along with fresh cuts of pork, of the noseto-tail variety, the Zhengs prepare daily stews, popular Cantonese dishes that are hearty and deceptively simple. Case in point: my favourite stew of tender beef flank and tendon in a dark, honeycoloured sauce relies on a long braise with a complex spice mix, including dried orange peel, licorice root, ginger, hoisin, Shaoxing cooking wine, soy sauce, star anise and fennel seeds. Other classics include soy sauce duck wings, soy sauce Shelley Zheng with bbq duck pig’s ears (very tender by the way) and, on occasion, goat stew. I’ve also enjoyed the sticky rice in bamboo leaves, a family recipe that is most often made savoury. Once a year, however, the Zhengs break out the sweet variety in celebration of Dragon Festival. While many prefer takeout, I like to take comfort sitting at one of the kitchen tables at the back of the shop. 554 Fisgard St., 250-383-9934
Heart of Asia Black uniformed wait staff match the black interior of this hip new space, another popular student hangout for Sichuan fare. The adventurous menu delves deep into organ meats, lamb, mutton and even frog. Duck cooked at table sees tender pieces of meat on the bone in a thick rich broth redolent of chile, star anise and vibrant green garlic stems. A Sichuan technique of boiling meat is evident in a dish of spicy beef with red chile and bean sprouts served in a signature infused oil of “secret spices.� Bowls of steamed rice are welcome companions. Infused oils are the backbone of many
left: Chef Steve Li right: Sauteed Bullfrog in Chili Sauce (the bigger bowl) & Spam, Fungus & Chili Oil Hot Pot
dishes at Heart of Asia, including one of oil-poached potato slices served with seaweed, cauliflower and sesame seeds. Some of the “secrets� were revealed to be cloves, cassia bark and Sichuan peppercorns. 1640 Cedar Hill X Rd., 778-432-3700
20
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 21
E AT M a g a z i n e a n d T h e Le f t C o a s t p re s e n t :
A dinner series about collaboration on the West Coast. We invite a new chef, mixologist or brewmaster from a nearby community and pair them with a talented local host, delivering a truly unique dining experience on the third Sunday of each month.
'The Tapa Crawl'
JULY 19TH
THE
beer trailer
A three venue walking dinner
Chorizo & Co. | Perro Negro | Bodega 6:00 PM
'The Gulf Islands Showcase'
I G O W H E R E I' M TOW E D ! AUGUST 16TH
I C E B O X
Misconduct Wine Co.| Penticton
Pilgrimme | Galiano Island Salt Spring Island Cheese | Salt Spring Island Sea Star Vineyards | Pender Island Catalano 6:00 PM
DELIVERING THE PERFECT POUR FOR YOUR SPECIAL EVENT
FA R M E R S ’ M A R K E T S BEER GARDENS F E S T I VA L S W ED D I N G S COR POR AT E FUN CT I ONS FU NDR A IS ERS
farupscott real estate
A L L T H E I N F O AT :
T E N B E E R S E R V I C E TA P S
BEER
W I T H A D R A U G H T W I S E G LY C O L C H I L L I N G S Y S T E M
T R A I L E R .CA
r e s t aura n t
c icche t t i bar
1 0 , 0 0 0 WAT T G E N E R A T O R O N B O A R D WA L K - i N K E G S T O R A G E F R I D G E F U L LY S T O C K E D AT M M A C H I N E P K S O U N D S Y S T E M AVA A AILABLE
BODEGA
Tickets and information for all events at: ontheleftcoast.com www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
21
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 22
g COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH —By Shawn Soole
What’s on your plate this evening?
The Summer Bartender
Making up a punch or a jug of cocktails before the guests arrives allows you to join in the party.
I
t is the height of summer, barbecues are smoking, bikinis and board shorts are in ample supply and the patio entertaining season is in full swing. Entertaining in your backyard shouldn't be a chore, especially when it comes to serving your guests some amazing cocktails.
MODERN FINE DINING EAT WELL. HAVE FUN.
www. cavavictoria.com
250.590.7982
Colin Hynes
SUM
MER
featuring
ceviche
Creating punches and jugs is the simplest way to prepare drinks in bulk for your guests. It can be done in advance, ensuring you’re not chained to the makeshift bar inside your house. There are classic definitions for punches using rules for sweet, sour, strong and weak and the universally used oleo saccharum (a mix of citrus peel and fine sugar). Modern punches can be made from whatever you like, thrown into a bowl or jug, as long as it’s balanced and fun. The general rule of thumb with punches (which really applies to all cocktails) is one part sour, two of sweet, three of strong and four of weak. The strong element of your punch is, of course, the liquor; the weak is usually tea, sparkling water or wine. The sweet and
sour are self-explanatory—usually citrus or a sweetener of some sort. Using these rules for your everyday cocktailing is a great tool, but when you need to create a large batch of something for your guests, it is invaluable. Preparing a jug of cocktails, chilling and storing before your party is the best plan for seamless entertaining. Jugs can be mixed and placed in the fridge until adding the ice in individual glasses (mojitos are amazing for this), punches can also mixed ahead of time and then poured over large chunks of ice in bowls for chilling and dilution, and spirit-forward cocktails can have water added to them and chilled for easy pour when guests arrive. E
O C E A N W I S E TM L O I S L A K E S T E E L H E A D , S U S T A I N A B LY H A R V E S T E D P R A W N S , R E D O N I O N S , T H A I B A S I L , M I N T, C I L A N T R O, N U O C C H A M
GIN-GIN MULE
Makes a two-litre jug.
12 oz gin 18 mint leaves 6 oz lime juice 4 oz simple syrup 2 bottles of 275 ml Fentiman’s Ginger Beer
22
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
Pour gin, mint, lime juice and simple syrup into a jug and let stand for 15 to 30 minutes. Before serving add ice and stir to equally distribute the mint. Pour into a rock glass filled with ice and top with ginger beer.
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 23
g TOP 5 —By Gillie Easdon
Cold Call
Our five top picks for satisfying your ice cream urge. Summer and frozen pleasures go hand in hand. There’s nothing wrong with gelato in the winter, but it lacks the race-pace of devouring something gorgeous in the sun before it melts. Here are my top five, in no particular order.
Cold Comfort Autumn Maxwell’s ice cream creations are rich, sometimes surprising and always decadent. She has pints and sandwiches, cakes and a makes a strong case for ice cream served in a cup; no cones. “It’s a no cone zone. We don’t have the space. I won’t have them if they aren’t perfect.” Thus spoke Maxwell. Her fastidious allegiance to high quality and flavor appeals to the purist in me. The Papaya, Black Pepper with Balsamic and Blackberry was bright and spiced and unexpected. The Vegan Chocolate, Sour Cherries with Cacao Nibs was deceptively lush and but the Local Strawberry Cream with Angel Water Butter Cookies was incredible. Picture the first local strawberry you ever tasted and then improve that memory. Cold comfort is my pick for integrity and also the sandwiches hold in the cold a bit, if you need to drive to a beach with them. (coldcomfort.ca)
Kid Sister Every time I go into Kid Sister I kick myself for having waited so long to return. Brett Black and his team make everything onsite, from syrups for sodas to milkshakes to paletas to slushies to floats to cones. Paletas, a Mexican version of popsicles, are noted for being more fresh in flavor than “hummingbird food” sweet. I enjoyed the Roasted Rhubarb and Vanilla Creamsicle paleta, which I want to buy a mess of to serve after a hearty summer barbecue. I also perked up with the tart, lime-tastic but veiled in gorgeous coconut cream of the Coconut Lime paleta. Kid Sister wins for delicious and most inspiring to include as dessert or a good palate cleanser. Apparently the apple paletas are also popular at festivals for dipping into a beer. Yum! (kidsister.ca)
Fol Epi I did not like soft serve ice cream. I didn’t get it. That was until today at Fol Epi. The organic vanilla bean soft serve in a housemade waffle cone with stewed rhubarb and caramel sauce changed me. The cone was delicate and sweet, but light. The rhubarb was a nice counterpoint to the caramel and it was perfect. Other toppings available are chocolate, hazelnuts, almonds and strawberry. Fol Epi wins for redefining or refining the institution of soft serve and nailing the house made waffle cone. (folepi.ca)
Jacksons Ice Cream Friends visiting or looking for something fun to do today? Go to Fisherman’s Wharf. Fish and Chips and Jackson’s Ice Cream. It is always pumping in the summer, with the buskers, seals and houseboats, smell of the deep fryer entwined with Moose Tracks ice cream, so good. The ice cream and frozen yogurt are Island Farms. Jackson’s Ice Cream wins for being part of an integral Victoria experience. (fishermanswharfvictoria.com)
FOR EXPERT SKINCARE, THE DOCTOR IS MARK LUP IN
Ottavio Italian Bakery & Deli Gelato and Sorbetto: Fior di Latte (cream), Torrone (cream and nougat) Zabaglione (custard) are a few of the Italian standards. Ottavio has them all. Ottavio’s roots go back to Torino, Italy, where Ottavio’s Nonno and Nonna had a pasticceria, bar and gelateria for 40 years. Their organic and local fruit gelato is straight up beautiful. Ottavio wins for best classic styles and they have three sizes of take-home containers. Fantastico! (ottaviovictoria.com) E
250.598.3300 | COSMEDICA.CA
Did we miss one of your favourites? Let us know by posting a comment on our Facebook page (www.facebook.com/EATmagazine).
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
23
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 24 SPECIAL EAT PROMOTION
Salt Spring ...summer salt spring island
artist gallery and gift shop
Salt Spring Island Cheese
Mahon Hall Downtown Ganges June 12 to September 20
Cheese Farm Shop & CafĂŠ OPEN EVERY DAY 250.653.2300
open daily 10-5
Houseboat Home Accessories 134 Hereford Ave (250) 538-1975
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 25
They say a change is as good as a rest. On Salt Spring you can enjoy both: stroll oceanside or wooded walking trails,
kayak the coast-line or simply recline on the deck with a great book or glass of local wine. Then head into Ganges
where you’ll discover new, carefully curated, shops and galleries. Explore the lively Saturday Market with its artisanal
cheeses, breads and many hand-made crafts. Refresh your body with a spa visit or balance the soul with a yoga class. Take a trip over the sea and find more time to relax ...treat yourself!
MISTAKEN IDENTITY V I N E YA R D S
GRATITUDE Tasting New Releases 12-5 pm Daily 164 Norton Road, SSI, BC (Just North of Ganges)
pod
contemporary
art & artful things 102-150 fulford ganges road, salt spring island, bc t. 778 353 3344 podcontemporary.com
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 26
g LOCAL KITCHEN
Say bonjour to modern bistro bliss.
Meat the New Steak Frites
26 26
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015 EAT MAGAZINE MAY | JUNE 2015
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 27
T
his updated version of the French bistro classic keeps the classic base but adds a contemporary twist. Big beefy entrecôte (a.k.a. rib-eye) still delivers a rich fatty slap but gone is the syrupy, reduced wine sauce in favour of an umami-rich anchovy experience. A side of slender frites is still a must—especially with yams and creamy blue cheese mingled in.
BUTTER-BATHED RIB-EYE STEAK
Resist the urge to throw these on the grill. Rib-eyes were made for a cast-iron pan, but if the siren call of the barbecue beckons, so be it. Just skip the butter part. See what you’re missing out on? Serves 4. 24-oz bone-in rib-eye steak – about 1½ to 2-in thick 2 tsp each fennel, mustard and coriander seeds 1 tsp black peppercorns Kosher salt, lots ½ tsp oil 3 Tbsp unsalted butter 3 to 4 whole thyme sprigs Crush fennel, mustard, coriander seeds and peppercorns. Blend with generous pinches of salt. Rub all over steak. Heat oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, place steak, fatty cap-side down. You may need tongs to hold the meat in place. Sear until well-browned and some fat renders. Flip over, searing both sides of meat, about 2-3 minutes per side. Remove meat from pan. Discard drippings and wipe clean (don’t wash). Reduce heat to medium. Add butter and thyme to pan Once the thyme starts to sizzle, add beef. Continue to cook, flipping steak (occasionally. Using a spoon, baste steak often with butter until cooked to desired doneness. Aim for 125°F for medium-rare. This may take up to 15-18 minutes, depending on thickness of meat. Use a thermometer to check for accuracy. Remove steak to a cutting board and let stand 8-10 minutes, then slice meat from bone. Serve with charred lemon wedges and drizzle with Dreamy Anchovy Sauce.
DREAMY ANCHOVY SAUCE The big punchy flavour of this sauce stands up to a rich cut of beef. 14 to 16 salted anchovy fillets, rinsed ¼ cup olive oil 1 large garlic clove, finely chopped ¼ cup fresh lemon juice Handful chopped parsley or cilantro Pinches of red chili flakes Chop anchovies. Place in a small frypan and add oil and garlic. Cook slowly over medium-low heat until anchovies break down and melt into sauce. Stir often, mashing anchovies against side of pan to help crush them. Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice, parsley and chili flakes. Taste, add more chili if needed (it should have a little bit of kick). Drizzle over steaks.
MIXED FRITES There’s a reason fries taste better at a restaurant—the deep fryer! This home-fried version still delivers, and oven roasting is a delicious (and easier) option too. Serves 4. 1-2 large Yukon gold potatoes, unpeeled and cut into thin batons 1 large yam or sweet potato, peeled and cut into thin batons Cornstarch Vegetable oil ¼ cup each chopped parsley and crumbled blue cheese Sea salt, pinches Blanch Yukon gold batons in salted boiling water for 2 minutes, then drain. Coat yam batons in cornstarch and set aside. To fry, half-fill a large deep pan with oil over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, work in batches and fry potatoes. Using a slotted spoon or tongs, remove as cooked to a tray lined with paper to absorb excess oil. Adjust heat to medium as needed. If roasting, heat two large oiled baking sheets in oven while preheating to 425°F. Toss blanched Yukon gold batons with a little more oil, then spread out on one of the hot baking sheets. Spread out yam batons on the other. Roast, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 15 minutes. Turn into a bowl and toss with parsley, blue cheese and salt.
27 27
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 28
Après-steak it's free form! no pie plate needed
pick fresh from the garden
28
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 29
AFTERNOON BERRY GALETTE Pie tastes best on a sunny afternoon, eaten for no other reason than pure enjoyment. You never really need a reason to eat pie, right? Dough 11/2 cups all-purpose flour 2 Tbsp palm sugar Pinch of sea salt ¾ cup cold butter, cut into cubes 2½ Tbsp cold lard or vegetable shortening ¼ cup ice water Filling 4 cups mixed berries ½ cup palm sugar 1 Tbsp cornstarch 3 Tbsp marmalade 1 Tbsp milk Coarse sugar, optional 2 Tbsp panko bread crumbs 1 tsp cinnamon Whipped cream Lemon verbena (optional) For the dough, whirl flour, sugar and salt in a food processor. Add butter and lard, then pulse just until crumbs form. Continue to pulse while gradually adding water just until dough comes together. Turn onto a floured counter and form into a ball. Cover and let rest for 15 minutes. Preheat oven to 400°F. In a bowl, toss berries with sugar and cornstarch. Once dough has rested, roll into a large circle, then trim so it’s about 14 in wide. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Using the tip of a knife, trace a 9-in circle in the centre of the dough. Spread jam over circle, then cover with crumbs. Sprinkle with cinnamon, then add berry mixture. Fold pastry over, just to cover the edge of the fruit, creating a free-form tart. Brush pastry with milk, then sprinkle with coarse sugar, if using. Place in oven and reduce temperature to 375°F. Bake until pastry is golden and fruit is bubbly, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool to room temperature, then serve with whipped cream. Sprinkle with leaves of lemon verbena.
Text, recipes by JENNIFER DANTER Food styling by JENNIFER DANTER Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY Art Direction by JENNIFER DANTER & GARY HYNES www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
29
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 30
KEEP YOUR FORK—There’s Pie These sweet or savoury pastry delights are making a well-deserved comeback. Story by Cinda Chavich Some of my fondest memories are associated with pie. Cutting into my mother’s shatteringly flaky crust to get at the tart, cinnamon apples inside. The treat of saskatoon pie made with berries we’d picked in prairie coulees. The fall fruit and pumpkin pies lined up on tables at fowl suppers in the church basement. My grandmother, never one to waste a scrap of food, rendered pork fat to make lard for her perfect pies—with the bonus of cvarci, the crispy cracklings that are the Balkan equivalent of scrunchions or chicharónes, and still a guilty pleasure I cannot resist. (cont’d on the next page)
30
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
Rebecca Wellman
Susannah Ruth Bryan holding one of her strawberry pies
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 31
Back in Fashion Once mastered, pie is simple—easy as pie, as they say—but it fell out of fashion in the fat-phobic years. Instead of butter and lard, the key to perfect pâte brisée and flaky short crusts, we embraced watery margarine and hydrogenated vegetable oils, fats that are bad for both our health and our pies. Thankfully, we know more about fats today, and pies are popular again, says local pastry maven Susannah Ruth Bryan, even for special events like weddings. In fact, according to New York wedding planner Fallon Carter, pie is one of the hottest wedding trends for 2015, from farm-to-table fruit pies to medieval-style Bride Pies, towers of rustic, multi-tiered meat pies for country nuptials. Bryan, the baker behind the beautiful pies, cakes and other creations at Victoria’s Ruth & Dean, makes her sweet pies to order and says they are the kind of comforting desserts that use up whatever is in season—whether her deep dish strawberry pie with rustic oat crumble or a puckery lemon pie. Says Bryan. “You can make a pie from whatever you have lying about.” Which may be why pie is popular in the Zero Waste world of small, family farms.
Pig to Pie At Omnivore Acres, Jim and Catherine Gowans grow vegetables, and raise chickens and pigs for their weekly food boxes. It’s a classic mixed farm and a closed system, with the vegetable scraps going to their free-ranging animals that eat well and give back to the soil in a perfect “circle of life.” Omnivore’s organic pork also goes to Geoff Pinch at Four Quarters Meats and comes back as smoky charcuterie. Pinch renders the lard Catherine uses in the pastry for her seasonal fruit pies, available by special order from the farm, and on the menu at their summer farmhouse suppers. “Pie is my real passion,” says Catherine, who uses garden rhubarb, wild berries and heritage Gravenstein, Spy and King apples from Salt Spring Island. Baking with lard from their own pigs has been a revelation. “It’s very soft compared to commercial lard because the fatty acid profile is so different for these free-range pigs, much higher in healthy monounsaturated fats than commercially fed animals,” she says of the pigs that eat grass and vegetables and are finished on apples. It’s not surprising to learn Catherine has won prizes for her perfect pies. The blueberry and tayberry creation she sets before me—oozing sweet juices under a woven lattice top—is a stunner. She admits it took time to perfect her pastry but, like me, she relies on a popular “no-fail” recipe of lard, flour, egg, cold water and vinegar, with a spoonful of baking powder to lift the layers. “My mother could make a pie in 15 minutes,” she says. “It really is easy.”
Fancy Fats Anyone can make lard at home. Just start with good leaf lard or back fat from your favourite pork producer, cook it long and slow until you have clear, rendered lard and cracklings. Some say it’s best to cook the fat with a little water to keep the temperature lower and prevent browning. You can do it in the oven, on the stovetop in a deep stock pot or in a slow cooker to keep the process low and slow. Strain out the crunchy bits, portion and store in the freezer. “Grate it on a cheese grater or chop it and cook it for four to six hours,” says Bryan, proffering a jar of creamy, white, home-rendered lard, a precious fat she saves for biscuits and special pies. Evelyn Periera of Terra Nossa Organic Farm in Mill Bay sells lard rendered from her organic pastured pigs directly from the farm or at the Moss Street Market. Sumas Mountain Farms in Abbotsford raises pastured pork and sells its backfat in four-pound packages ($4/pound), that you can render at home. Or ask for lard at Oak Bay’s Village Butcher. Like duck fat, natural lard is high in monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats, and not too high in the “bad” saturated fats. It’s very different from the shelf-stable commercial lard and shortening found in supermarkets, which are both hydrogenated, a process that creates the dreaded trans fats, the source of heart-stopping cholesterol. But any lard, when compared with butter, is actually a healthier choice. Lard has 40
percent saturated fat vs. 60 percent saturates in butter, and twice the percentage of “good” monounsaturated fats. “It’s very rich in Vitamin D and healthy monounsaturates, just a great fat,” says Bryan. Most of her pies are made with a combination of partially hydrogenated shortening and butter to appease vegetarians, but Bryan will make pies with lard for customers on request. Freshly rendered lard is lovely for baking, frying potatoes and fried chicken, or spreading on a baguette (with the cracklings intact, à la Italian lardo).
Easy As Pie It’s hard to know where the saying “easy as pie” comes from, with so many of us still petrified of making pastry. Pastry is a simple combination of fat, flour and water (maybe egg), but it’s a skill that takes some practice to perfect. Some bakers use pastry flour, with less gluten, for a tender crust, but the fat is really the key to the crust you’ll end up with. In his book How to Read a French Fry, Russ Parsons goes deep into the science of making pastry—an entire chapter aptly titled “Fat, Flour and Fear.” It’s the fat that prevents gluten strands from forming in the pastry, he says. When the fat is combined with the flour (just until it’s reduced to pea-sized bits), it leaves air-filled gaps in the pastry as it bakes and melts. That’s the secret to flaky pastry and why you must use a solid fat, whether butter, lard or shortening. “Lard can be the best fat for a pie crust because its fat crystals are larger and will create greater flakiness,” he writes. “Butter is highly saturated, so its shortening power is lower.” While Parsons says commercially rendered lard can taste bad and pastry made with butter has “superb flavour,” it must be chilled before baking or it will be tough. Homemade lard is soft and must be well-chilled, or even frozen, before making pastry. Working the dough too much will develop too much gluten in the flour and result in tough pastry—so work with a light hand. The rustic single-crust pie, or tart, is the easiest. Roll out the pastry on a piece of parchment, fill the middle with fruit, dust with flour or cornstarch and sugar, and fold the dough over the filling for a free-form pie that doesn’t even require lifting the pastry into a pie plate. If you use a shallow tart pan with a removable bottom, just press a crumbly short pastry into the pan before baking it blind (filled with pie weights or beans) and filling with a creamy custard or fruit topping. Tricks of the trade? Gowans puts a cookie sheet in the oven while she preheats it, then makes sure the pastry-lined pan is well-chilled when she places it on top. Bryan says the trick to great pastry is keeping everything ice cold. “Freeze the butter or fat and grate it with a box grater,” she says. “Use a pastry cutter and barely touch it. Roll out on a cold surface, ice water and chill or freeze the pastry well before rolling.”
To Everything, a Season Pastry chefs and bakers are offering beautiful pies, whether rustic free-form pies, portable hand pies or classic double-crust pies of tart apples, fresh peaches or dark berries in summer, and lemon, pumpkin and mincemeat in winter. Pie shops are eclipsing cupcake shops. Victoria Pie Co. offers both sweet and savoury pies, stuffed with spinach and feta or banana cream. At farm shops like Oldfield Orchard & Bakery, they bake fruit pies (and meat pies) on site, too—a strawberry pie is a great excuse for a country drive. Or visit Bubby Rose’s Bakery/Café for a slice of pie, even a whole pie to bake at home. There’s a connection to pie that evokes childhood memories. It’s part of the farm-totable trend and a vehicle to showcase the season’s freshest local fruits. But pies also connect us to our past, a dish with British roots equally at home at a barbecue or a banquet. And whether you’re a visiting royal or an average Joe, it’s always wise to keep your fork, just in case there’s pie! E Visit eatmagazine.ca for Cinda’s No Fail Pastry (with Lard) & How to Build a Fruit Pie. Ruth & Dean Baked Goods: ruthanddean.com Omnivore Acres: bcfarmsandfood.com Terra Nossa Organic Farm: terranossa.ca Sumas Mountain Farms: sumasmountainfarms.ca
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
31
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:47 AM Page 32
PRESENTED BY Special Eat Promotion
T H E O A K B AY
FOOD TRAIL
Meet the chefs, bakers, butchers and shopkeepers. Explore the shops, restaurants and cafés.
MEET THE MAKERS: left to right Jeff Keenliside (Marina Restaurant), Geoff Martin (Slaters), Maria Elwood (Crumsby’s), Emily Mathison (Vis-a-Vis), Mathew Floesser (Village Butcher), Shamus McDougall (Pure Vanilla), Cheryl Schultz (Chery’s Gourmet Pantry), Andrew Moyer (Ottavio), Cory Pelan (The Whole Beast), Robert Budlong (Oak Bay Beach Hotel). Photographed at Willows Beach by Rebecca Wellman. 32
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 33
Welcome to the New Oak Bay
Meet the new Oak Bay where spectacular surroundings and a re-invigorated food & drink scene join to create an idyllic city destination.
I
moved to Oak Bay in the early 1990s after living in the country for fifteen years. I wanted to find a place to live that was as peaceful and beautiful as my acreage near the ocean had been. My house and garden, on a tree-lined street near the ocean, is as quiet an oasis as I hoped it would be. I often think Oak Bay is a “Pollyanna” kind of town. I’ve had wonderful neighbours, and whenever I go for a walk or do errands in Oak Bay Village, people smile at one another and treat each other with warmth and courtesy. Walking along the ocean near McNeil Bay, with the stunning backdrop of the Olympic Mountains, past the two donated Adirondack chairs perched on McMicking point, always inspires feelings of awe and gratitude for being fortunate enough to live in the midst of so much beauty. When I first moved here, I was told a persnickety bylaw prohibited using clotheslines to hang laundry. Like so many other erroneous notions about Oak Bay, that was an urban myth. Outsiders referred to Oak Bay as more “British than England” and dubbed it as being “behind the Tweed Curtain.” I’ve never had the sense either sobriquet was accurate. In the past few decades, Oak Bay’s image has been transformed as the ages and interests of its population changed. Ethnic restaurants and specialty foods shops, au courant clothing and décor stores, children’s clothing and toy stores, and six excellent galleries cater to the changing demographic. Residents might still sip tea, but it is more likely to be matcha green tea, not PG Tips.
Naturally Scenic If you love to run, walk, hike, bike, sail, canoe or kayak in spectacular surroundings, Oak Bay offers the opportunity to do it all. Like to get high? Head up to Anderson Hill (a.k.a. Blueberry Hill), climb the steep stairs to Walbran Park and Trafalgar Park, or walk up King George Terrace to the lookout for a panoramic view. Walk down to Harling Point
to the Chinese Cemetery, a National Historic Site in a unique setting. Put your kayak in the water at Willows Beach, with its gorgeous view of snow-capped Mount Baker, or enjoy the intricate structures locals build out of driftwood on the sand. Explore Cattle Point’s tidal pools in daylight and, on a clear night, gaze at comets and stars from Cattle Point’s Dark Sky Urban Star Park. (See cattlepointstarpark.org). Wild for wilderness? Uplands Park has seventy-six acres of woodland tra ils and Garry Oak meadows and plenty of wildlife.
Food Lover’s Tour Pick up a picnic of Mediterranean goodies in Oak Bay Village and head to your favourite park or beach. Restaurant options include Turkish, Japanese, West Coast fusion, charcuterie, Italian, and Persian food. For great home-cooked meals, it’s a short walk from the butcher shop that sells locally sourced products, to shops with organic and local veggies and specialty food products. From June to September, on the second Wednesday of each month, head to the Village for the Oak Bay Night Market, held from 4 pm to 8 pm. This street market offers music, local produce, baked goods, and foods to munch on while strolling past artisans’ booths. Stores stay open late, and offer tastings and special events. The streets of Oak Bay are lush with blooming vegetation. A mixture of architectural eras and house sizes can be seen on every street, from large turn of the century homes, handsome Arts and Crafts houses, small 1930s, pre-war and 1950s bungalows, to sleek modern designs. With its calming, cooling ocean breezes, beaches, parks, and the flower gardens lovingly tended by its residents, Oak Bay is a naturally beautiful destination. —By Sylvia Weinstock
Ehren Salazar
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
33
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 34
OAK BAY BEACH HOTEL
A Short History of Oak Bay
125 words + Image
XXXXXXX
rom The Dining Room, showcasing a refined and approachable menu featuring the season’s best locally sourced ingredients and hospitality to match… to the iconic Snug pub (est. 1954), Victoria’s first neighbourhood pub and the perfect place to enjoy good spirits amongst friends… to delectable goodies enjoyed at Kate’s Café along with your favourite glass of wine or perfectly prepared latte… the options are plentiful and offer a range of fresh, house-made fare with a local flavour. And if that’s not enough, there is always healthy fare and a favourite drink to be enjoyed poolside plus one-of-a-kind weekly Tuesday Movie Night experiences and seasonal Dinner Shows. Truly memorable dining experiences are created when extraordinary food is shared with those closest to you, in an atmosphere unlike any other. Join us soon! 1175 Beach Drive, Victoria, BC (250) 598.4556 www.oakbaybeachhotel.com
F
THE WHOLE BEAST 125 words + Image
XXXXXXX
he Whole Beast is proud to produce handmade, traditional, artisan cured meats without unnecessary additives, preservatives or fillers, while utilizing ethically raised, hormone and antibiotic free meats from the island and the Fraser valley. The team is constantly experimenting with new flavors and techniques resulting in an ever changing lineup of ready to eat, unique products featuring old world techniques combined with new world flavors. Our aim is to increase awareness and appreciation for the lesser known parts of “the beast” by treating them with the same passion and respect shown to the rest of the animal. From bacon to blood sausage, the tradition of meat curing has inspired us to create over 50 products all made in house. Starting this summer The Whole Beast will be offering a wide selection of pickles, chutneys, crackers and condiments to accompany our charcuterie for a one stop picnic shop. 2032 Oak Bay Ave, Victoria, BC, (250) 590.7675, www.thewholebeast.ca
T
34
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
Family Tea at the Oak Bay Camp, held annually each summer at Rattenbury's Beach, Oak Bay. (1905) Oak Bay Archives
B
efore Jack Todd built his farmstead in Oak Bay in the 1850s, the area was a Garry oak meadow and home to some of the most extensive camas growth on the Island. It was a natural and replenishing source of camas, seafood, and other staples for First Nations people. The European settlers who moved into the area gradually appropriated the land, transforming it to suit their own agricultural model. The grasslands were ideal for flock animals, and there would have been a time in the late nineteenth century when thousands of sheep could be seen grazing on the meadows. Where once the area was home to deer, elk, cougars, and wolves, settlers drove in cattle and built an abattoir where the yacht club now stands. The cattle, too, are now gone, though we still have the deer. As local historian Ben Clinton-Baker puts it, “the history of Oak Bay is one of a long struggle between native species and invasive ones. Indigenous plants parry in the dirt against transplanted ones, and people of older generations push back against newcomers with new ideas and ways of being”. It is an apt metaphor for the way that change comes to Oak Bay. I sat down for a coffee with Ben to hear the story of Oak Bay. He spoke about how Oak Bay was nearly self-sufficient until the Second World War, growing much of its own food on small allotments. After this, and continuing to today, urbanization rolled pavement over the exceptional soil. There is a pushback now, and local groups are trying to bring back camas and other local species and to preserve what stretches of Garry oak meadows are left. In a time when population density and the demand for space are on the rise, though, such initiatives are not simple. Later that week, I went to the Oak Bay Historical Archives and spoke with Alan McKinlay and Bronwyn Taylor, long-time residents of Oak Bay and keepers of its history. Much of what we discuss is change. There were once grand hotels here, where the British of the Empire came to spend cooler summers. Those hotels have gone, replaced by new hotels. The streetcars that connected Oak Bay to Victoria have gone, as well. Oak Bay was once a place where people cooked at home, and there were few places to dine out. Now, though, gourmet establishments line the main drag. The difference is in the economics. They tell me that in the old days, people couldn’t afford to eat out, but now there is plenty of money in Oak Bay, and people want restaurants that reflect their bettered realities. Oak Bay has its own eccentricities. Alan tells me that when the Penny Farthing was set to open, locals were worried about drunks in the streets at 3:00pm when children were getting out of school, and squealing tires at 2:00am. Histrionics abounded. “Now,” he says, “the pub is an institution. People would protest if it got shut down.” Oak Bay is funny like that. —By Adam Cantor
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 35
Painting Oak Bay As part of our look at Oak Bay EAT asked Barbara Weaver-Bosson to reminisce on her experience painting Oak Bay.
THE MARINA RESTAURANT Award winning cuisine. Unforgettable views.
here’s something about a good restaurant in the lull before lunch, a sense of anticipation, crisp white tablecloths, sparkling glass and tableware. Add a sun-drenched view across the Marina, and it’s the ideal place to talk to Jeff Keenliside, Corporate Chef for the Oak Bay Marine Group and the Marina Restaurant, about what the Restaurant stands for. He talks with quiet passion about his philosophy: “This company was built on fishing and the ocean, it’s our heritage and I wanted to reflect that. When I initially came on board many years ago the first goal was to go Ocean Wise, the program that promotes seafood sustainability, and correct harvesting practices. We don’t serve farmed salmon, we don’t bring fish up from the Tropics, and I’m proud that our sushi bar is the only 100% Ocean Wise sushi bar in Victoria, as are all of our restaurants.” “You don’t need to bring things from hundreds of miles away, we have wonderful produce right here. And in fact, the whole emphasis in our menu is on fresh, local and seasonal. For example, we have two superb local suppliers, Saanich Organics, who provide us with salad greens, berries, tomatoes, squash, green brassica and herbs, and Sun Leighton Farm in Metchosin who produce sun artichokes, some of the best green beans you’ll ever taste, as well as quinces and apples – lovely people, who are as passionate about quality as we are. We believe in letting these wonderful tastes from all our producers shine through. They put a lot of effort into their product and we make sure that it makes it onto the plate.” Looking down the menu, you can see how this philosophy informs everything from the Salt Spring Island Mussels, Grilled Wild Salmon and, the test of every good restaurant, Roast Chicken (their version with rosemary and lemon). An example of how the Restaurant sets the standard is its Grand Marnier award winning pastry department that makes the finest sourdough bread, exquisite tarts and pastries, and provides all the desserts for the Restaurant, including their famous Sunday Brunch. The whole intent at the Marina Restaurant is of giving diners a classic white tablecloth experience of the finest restaurants anywhere, but without being stuffy, and as Jeff Keenliside says; “keeping it fresh and giving our customers the best seafood in Victoria”.
T
Pictured above: Beach Drive by Barbara Weaver-Bosson
“
As a visual artist, Oak Bay is special to me for a number of reasons. Over the years, I discovered several favourite view points for my painting research for my Neighbourhoods Series. One of the most perfect locations for my 1998 painting of "Beach Drive" was in Walbran Park where viewpoints were high above the roadways and neighbourhoods. Looking east, I could easily observe the eclectic seaside homes along the scenic Beach Drive. I love the way the roadway happily curves and winds its way along the shoreline. Always wishing I could get out to golf more, I longingly fantasized about a round of golf as I noticed from that great distance, the Victoria Golf Club and some of the fairways were actually visible.
The Marina Restaurant is at Oak Bay Marina, 1372 Beach Drive, Victoria, BC (250) 598.8555 www.marinarestaurant.com
View From Anderson Hill by Barbara Weaver-Bosson About 14 years ago, I was sketching from Anderson Hill park and there below I watched as one of the older character houses on King George Terrace was being surgically removed from its plot of land and moved onto a barge that waited patiently in the bay. The Tudor style home sat tall as it was soon towed away on calm waters. To commemorate that lovely old dear, I made sure to include it in my neighbourhood painting "View from Anderson Hill" Of all things the experiences I have had painting Oak Bay, I must say ‘happiness is a clear day and we can all enjoy the majesty of Mount Baker’. It is easy to fall in love with Oak Bay.”
CRUMSBY’S CUPCAKE CAFE eal Food isn’t a trend. Wholesome ingredients, made by hand. Ethically raised, hormone- and antibiotic-free meats. Small-batch baking, from scratch, every day. Organic, direct-trade coffee, made with care. (Victoria’s best chai latte, made with fresh-ground cardamom.) Treenut- and peanut-free kitchen. No-gluten options. Relaxing, welcoming atmosphere for all ages. In Estevan Village near Willows Beach, the summer’s Heart of Oak Bay. Share our passion. Get some Handmade Happiness™ of your own at Crumsby’s Café.
R
2509 Estevan Avenue, Victoria, BC (250) 595.2221 www.crumsbys.com
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
35
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 36
Top Foodie Picks
EAT’s Dream Picnic Basket 3 12
10
7
8
9
14
13 4
2 11 5
1
6
Match the number on the picture above to the number in the story at the right for maximum droolworthy appeal
T
he adventure of impromptu picnics is what summer is all about, and knowing where to go to get your favourite foods with minimal fuss can make all the difference. EAT has been dreaming about the ultimate picnic and our appetites lead us to the vicinity of Oak Bay, where all your dining needs can be met. Oak Bay features some of the city’s top shops and restaurants with locally sourced, handmade and gourmet produced goods.
We were inspired by a wide selection of items that invoked visions of picnicking by the sea in Tuscany. Of course, we’re not
in Italy but we found the ingredients for a perfect Tuscan feast and we’ve got miles of beaches to picnic at. At its simplest, an Italian themed picnic requires nothing more than a fresh baguette, some artisan cheese, cured meats like prosciutto or spiced salami, a few olives and a nice bottle of wine. Of course, you’ll need the essentials: corkscrew, glasses, plates, cutlery and a blanket to relax on. Here is what our picnic basket contains: —By Holly Brooke
36
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 37
1
Apertivo
House-made Mixed Olives
THE VILLAGE BUTCHER
Sun dried black, nicoise, picholine and cocktail olives marinated in olive oil, orange, rosemary, garlic and chili. These olives are delicious nibbled on their own and work well with some bread, cheese and a bite of salami. The Village Butcher (villagebutcher.ca), 2032 Oak Bay Avenue, 250-598-1115 2
125 words words ++ Image Image 125
Dried Black Mission Figs Sweet, jammy and dense with a pleasant crunch from the seeds (excellent paired with prosciutto) Ottavio - Italian Bakery & Delicatessen (www.ottaviovictoria.com), 2272 Oak Bay Ave Phone:(250) 592-4080
Antipasto
3
Lemon and Fennel Salami Pork from Stillmeadow Farms this popular salami is made with cracked fennel seed. Bright and floral, a perfect pairing for our creamy mixed olives. The Whole Beast (www.thewholebeast.ca), 2032 Oak Bay Avenue, (250) 590-7675
4
Prosciutto All natural dry-cured and thinly sliced from grain fed, hormone-free Vancouver raised pigs. Wrap a slice of proscuitto around a sweet, juicy fig for the perfect flavour combination. Slaters Meats (slatersmeats.com), 2577 Cadboro Bay Road, (250) 592-0823
5
Rustic Pork Terrine
e are really into meat. For us, that beautiful dinner starts longs before it hits the plate. We want to know everything we can about the animals we work with. Were they raised naturally with no hormones or antibiotics, what was their diet, how they were slaughtered. At the shop, we take care to butcher them in a way that maximizes their yield and we make use of every part of the animal. From harvesting unusual cuts, to making sausage, rendering many cooking fats and simmering rich stocks. All of us here are passionate about what we do every day and feel lucky to have an amazing network of farmers to work with. We also couldn’t do this without people who care where their meat comes from and appreciate how good it tastes! Our customers make our lives interesting, keep us on our toes and we like getting to know everyone we’re feeding. 2032 Oak Bay Ave, Victoria, BC, (250) 598.1115, www.villagebutcher.ca
W
Bacon wrapped terrine with violet mustard, chutney and toasted brioche. Simple, straightforward and easy to pack for a picnic (works well as an accompaniment to a variety of pickles and preserves). Vis-à-Vis Wine Bar (visavisoakbay.com), 2232 Oak Bay Avenue, (250) 590-7424 6
What would a picnic be without a chicken sandwich? Vancouver Island chicken breast, brie cheese, arugula and apricot chutney, this is classic picnic fare at its best – from the Kate’s Café. Oak Bay Beach Hotel (oakbaybeachhotel.com), 1175 Beach Drive, (250) 598-4556
Salad/Contorno 7
Chickpea Salad
Roasted vegetables and bocconcini, dressed with pesto, red wine vinegar and a house made lemon vinaigrette; fresh, light and cool, an excellent contrast to our heavier meats and cheeses. The Marina Dockside Eatery (below the Marina Restaurant) 1327 Beach Drive,(250) 598-3890 8
Grilled Tuscan Vegetables with Balsamic Splash A mix of Mediterranean vegetables roasted to perfection and glazed with balsamic vinegar. Enjoy this salad as is, on the plate, or make a sandwich by layering some of the veggies with a bit of proscuitto, provolone on focaccia bread. Cheryl’s Gourmet Pantry (cherylsgourmetpantry.com), 2009 Cadboro Bay Road, (250) 595-3212
Bread and Cheese
9
OTTAVIO
Chicken on Baguette
Fresh Baked Cherry Tomato Foccacia Bread Rosemary, fleur de sel, and either flecked with ripe tomatoes, olives or plain. There is nothing like freshly baked bread. Tuck one of these loaves into your picnic basket and be on your way! Ottavio, 2272 Oak Bay Ave Cont’d on the next page
Italian Bakery & Delicatessen 125 words + Image
ttavio’s heritage is based on a continual family history from 1921 in Northern Italy of producing fine foods and baking. This was the natural foundation for an Italian Delicatessen in Victoria, and Oak Bay had an empty, dated hair salon with the light fixtures literally hair-sprayed to the walls. We started with 8 kinds of cheese, four stools and a single espresso machine. We listened to our customers, found the products that they were asking for and introduced them to our favourites. Eighteen years later, we’re a shop of 20 friendly, funny and knowledgeable staff, 200 cheeses, dozens of cured meats, shelves bursting with Italian, French and Spanish groceries, in-house baked breads, pastries, a full service Italian café and our own gelato. Buon Appetito!
O
2272 Oak Bay Ave, Victoria, BC (250) 592.4080 www.ottaviovictoria.com
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
37
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 38
10
CHERYL’S GOURMET PANTRY
Pecorino Pepato Pecorino Pepato is an aged, salty sheep's milk cheese, with a rustic bite typical of an Italian table cheese. and a must have for a picnic. Its chief virtue is sharpness, which can be enjoyed, fresh with bread and charcuterie, or for cooking and melting (pasteurized). Ottavio (ottaviovictoria.com), 2272 Oak Bay Avenue, (250) 592-4080
Seafood/Secondo
125 words + Image
11
Marina Seafood Tasting
Molasses cured wild salmon, lemon puree, fennel and radish salad, grilled albacore tuna, lemon cilantro hummus, black olive relish, potted baby shrimp salad, Mary Rose sauce, fresh dill. The perfect dish for a picnic by the sea; enjoy with a crisp glass of Riesling for a perfectly balanced bite. The Marina Restaurant (marinarestaurant.com), 1327 Beach Drive, (250) 598-8555
For the last 27 years Cheryl has been creating an internationally inspired menu using the local ingredients that make Victoria truly the best place on earth. Our unique picnic baskets invite you to explore the scenic views of Oak Bay, while sampling a selection of our gourmet cuisine. The quaint summer days of seaside picnics are still alive and well here. Cheryl also offers her services for your next cocktail or dinner party. Our professional and friendly staff are delighted to make each event a memorable occasion. An evening of good friends, good food, and good wine brings everyone together. From start to finish, it is truly a labour of love. Come by our storefront and say hello! We can’t wait to meet you. 2009 Cadboro Bay Rd, Victoria, BC, (250) 595.3212, www.cherylsgourmetpantry.com
Vino
Riesling: Synchromesh 2014 Okanagan Valley VQA, BC A nose of clementine orange zest mixed with pie apple, apricot, white peach and a kiss of tropical dried mango. Off-dry. Vis-à-Vis Wine Bar (visavisoakbay.com), 2232 Oak Bay Avenue, (250) 590-7424
Caffe
12
[
Coarse ground, cold-steeped coffee. This cute, bottled coffee is pure, refreshing and great sipped as is; no milk or sugar required. Discovery Coffee (discoverycoffee.com/cafes), 1964 Oak Bay Avenue, (250) 590-7717
Dolce
13
VIS-A-VIS Bouchon ~ Bar
125 words + Image
W
2232 Oak Bay Ave., Victoria, BC (250) 590.7424 www.visavisoakbay.com
38
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
Mixed Mini Cupcakes In our basket we packed a mix of Tiramisu, salted caramel and lemon chiffon cupcakes with fluffy butter cream frosting - delicate and decadent and dangerous; one bite is never enough. Crumsby's Cupcake Café (crumsbys.com), 2509 Estevan Avenue, (250) 595-2221
14
ith a "face-to-face" mentality, Vis a Vis is a personalized and engaging experience. With front row seats, you are able to interact with our Bartender & Charcutier while sipping on a glass of wine, locally crafted beer or a signature cocktail. Located in the heart of Oak Bay, the newly relaunched Vis-à-Vis Bouchon and Bar offers a unique experience, showcasing an amazing new lunch and dinner menu, an excellent selection of wines and a beautifully crafted cocktail list. With a great selection of charcuterie and French inspired appetizers and entrées Oak Bay is the new destination for a perfect meal, to enjoy either inside or on the best patio in Oak Bay.
Cold Brew Coffee
Shortcrust Tartlettes
Chocolate Ganache – rich dark chocolate ganache in a chocolate crust with caramel sauce– sweet tart complimented by a buttery-rich crust. Wash these down with a sip of cold brew coffee and you will be in a picnicker’s heaven. Pure Vanilla (facebook.com/PureVanillaBakery), 2590 Cadboro Bay Rd, (250) 592-2896
~
Did you know? 1 2 3 4 5 6
In 2010, the bodies of water around Oak Bay, including southern Vancouver Island and Washington State were officially renamed the Salish Sea. A large Indian village — Sitchanalth — flourished at the mouth of Bowker Creek 2600 years ago. Canada's oldest Chinese cemetery is located at Harling Point, at the end of Crescent Road. It was designated a National Historic Site in 1995 and adheres to the principles of feng shui. Oak Bay is home to one of the largest collections of Art & Crafts galleries on Vancouver Island. The Mount Baker Hotel, built in Oak Bay in 1893, was Victoria's finest hotel. The rule of the road changed in 1921 requiring motorists to now drive on the right hand side of the road.
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 39
SLATER’S
PURE VANILLA
First Class Meats
Bakery & Cafe
125 words + Image
t Slaters Meats our goal is to provide our patrons with top quality locally raised free-range products and first class service. We make a wide range of sausages; from Turkey Italian to Bison Raspberry & Chipotle, each batch is low-fat/low-sodium and made without preservatives. Also, we source a complete deli section with salamis and hams produced without hormones, antibiotics or preservatives. If you're bored of the same meals every week or too tired to cook we offer marinated items, pre-made meals, and a bunch of award winning rubs and sauces. Whether you need steaks for a backyard BBQ, cheese and balsamics for a wine night, or an organic turkey for the holidays the boys of Slaters are here 7 days a week to serve you with a smile.
A
2577 Cadboro Bay Rd, Victoria, BC (250) 592.0823
DISCOVERY COFFEE 125 words + Image
XXXXXXX
iscovery Coffee started on a love of coffee and has turned into a passion to make it the best. Hand selecting green beans from farmers all of over the world and roasting them in house, our journey for the perfect cup is never ending. By roasting in small batches and pairing beans to specific brew methods, we are able to introduce different coffees and brew styles to our customers on a regular basis. This helps us to continually push the boundaries on what good coffee can be. Frequently educating our staff and, in turn, our customers, we hope to be a part of growing an already flourishing coffee scene in Victoria, B.C. Look for our current coffee selection and paired brew methods at all four Discovery Coffee locations along with our house made specialty baked goods from Yonni’s Doughnuts. 1964 Oak Bay Avenue, Victoria, BC, (250) 590.7717 www.discoverycoffee.com
D
125 words + Image
he best little from-scratch bakery and cafe in Oak Bay. A great selection of awardwinning muffins and and scones are baked fresh every morning and go perfectly with our Caffe Umbria coffee. We have a cookie case to test the strongest of wills, bars and squares that sell themselves, and the most beautiful pies and cakes to add the finishing touch to your special occasions. We serve light breakfast and lunch, have a nice menu of salads, grilled sandwiches, soups and other deliciousness. if you can't decide don't worry its all great. Lots of take away options too in our grab n' go fridge, and a freezer full of house-made ice cream! Squeeze a little bit more out of summer and enjoy our fantastic sunny patio out back, the perfect spot to enjoy coffee or lunch with your friends. Good things come in little pink boxes!
T
2590 Cadboro Bay Rd, Victoria, BC (250) 592.2896
MARINA DOCKSIDE EATERY 125 words + Image
he Marina Coffee House has been re-launched as the Marina Dockside Eatery. Partnering up with local roaster Caffè Fantastico, Corporate Chef Jeff Keenliside said, “They create a great product and put the same passion into their coffee as we do into our food. We are very supportive of our local producers.” He added, “With our new menu, we wanted to elevate and expand our offerings.” The Marina Dockside Eatery now offers a roasted vegetable frittata with goat cheese and free run eggs, pulled pork sandwiches, charcuterie platter, the Marina Restaurant’s signature smoked fish platter and more. The shared plate concept illustrates two other local partnerships: The Whole Beast Artisan Salumeria and Little Qualicum Cheeseworks.
T
1327 Beach Drive, Victoria, BC (250) 598.3890
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
39
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 40
40
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 41
TALK By Rebecca Baugniet
What the Pros Know For this issue, we asked local butchers and seafood purveyors to tell us what they personally like to barbecue at home for friends and family. Jason Pleym, Two Rivers Specialty Meats, (tworiversmeats.com)
When I’m hosting friends and family for a BBQ I always like to do a bit of a mixed grill, but at the center of the show is the Tomahawk Rib Steak! 2.5 lbs. of perfectly aged and butchered natural beef from our own ranch in Cache Creek. I’m a big fan of subtle fennel notes and Two Rivers blends it just right with Himalayan Pink Salt – just sprinkle and rub. Get your sizzle on until deep grill marks happen and the meat releases from the grill with ease. Finish by closing the lid and roasting with indirect heat until rare or as you desire. Allow for rest time.
Paul Chaddock, VP / CFO / Partner, Finest At Sea Ocean Products Ltd, (finestatsea.com)
My current West Coast treat has been to marinate some of our beautiful BC sablefish fillets for a few hours in my own, slightly tweaked rendition of a miso marinade adapted from Chef Nobu Matsuhisa. Sablefish is at home on a high-temp BBQ and its delicious, big buttery flakes open up to let you know when done. This dish will melt in your mouth and have your guests begging for more.
Logan Smith, Owner / Ravenstone Farm Artisan Meats, (ravenstonefarm.com)
I go for a nicely marbled, grass-fed rib eye steak. I grew up working in a steakhouse and for me, enjoying a perfectly grilled rib eye with friends was the reward for a job well done. Baste the steak with a drizzle of olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt and pepper. Get your grill as hot as you can so when the beef hits, it will quickly sear the outside locking in all the flavor. I like cooking my rib eye to medium, giving all of the marbling time to dissolve into the meat.
Lloyd McLennan (aka MEATDOGG), McLennan’s Island Meat and Seafood, (mclennansislandmeatandseafood.com)
When cooking for friends and family there is one steak that is a cut above the rest: the legendary Tomahawk steak. These huge steaks are approximately 18 inches long and 2 inches thick, cut from the finest local grass finished beef to ensure both and nutritional and ethical integrity as well as phenomenal taste.
Peter Gregg, The Fish Store at Fisherman’s Wharf, (floatingfishstore.com)
My hands-down favorite is brined and then hot smoked sockeye. My daughter doesn’t say a word when I serve this, she just eats! The salmon sits in a homemade brine (brown sugar, sea salt, water and maple syrup) for 6 hours before hitting the BBQ. I use hickory wood chips and when the smoke is really going I put the salmon on the grill, skin side down. Depending on the size and thickness of the fish this only takes between 5 and 10 minutes, so after 5 minutes start checking it every minute or so - you don’t want to overcook it. Melt in your mouth delicious.
Geoff Martin, Part owner, Slaters Meats, (slatersmeats.com)
My favorite cut for the BBQ is a good, thick well-marbled rib eye steak. I always let the steak come to room temperature; this allows the steak to cook more evenly. I use Barberian’s steak rub as my personal favorite. I like to crank the BBQ up high and put the steak on one side and turn that burner down regulating the temperature with the other burner. 6 minutes on each side, then take the steak off let it rest for 5 minutes, then dig in!
Bal Fisher, Glenwood Meats, (glenwoodmeats.ca)
I personally like to barbecue a bone-in rib eye at home for my family and friends. I rub a little minced garlic and Worcestershire sauce on my steak, my husband just likes it as is because it has a lot of flavour. We barbecue it about six minutes each side for a perfect medium rare. The rib eye can have a fair bit of marbling but don't be afraid because that's where the flavour is! Bon appétit!
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
41
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 42
THE LOCAL LIST EAT’s where to find it guide
EAT Magazine is available thanks to the support of our advertisers. Please support them whenever you can
DUNCAN HUDSON’S ON FIRST
THE APPLE BOX
Award winning dining in a beautifully restored heritage home. Local ingredients, classic techniques and made from scratch cooking are a just few reasons to visit us in Duncan more often. Celebrate Bubbles & Brunch, Lunch and Dinner. 163 First St. Duncan, BC 250-597-0066 www.hudsonsonfirst.ca
Frozen Meals with a Local Emphasis - The Apple Box' Seasonal Menu or Food Box consists of Frozen Dinners, Appetizers & Desserts made with Local hormone free pasture raised meats, local produce & organic ingredients. Available In Store 1725 Cook St, Victoria, BC www.theapplebox.ca 250-590-6257
THE COMMUNITY FARM STORE The Community Farm Store, organic health and whole food market in Duncan. Open 7 days per week. 10,0000 square feet of planet friendly market style shopping … with heart. No GMO’s! Good for you, good for the planet. 5380 Trans Canada Hwy, Duncan, BC 250-748-6227 www.communityfarmstore.ca
DUNCAN GARAGE CAFE & BAKERY A community favourite! The best food, coffee, smoothies and baking in town. Buzzing with interesting people, vibrant staff and a funky vibe. Always healthy, fresh, creative and home-made. Great food using great ingredients!! 330 Duncan Street, Duncan, BC 250.748.6223
Vegetarian & Gluten Wise Options
42
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
MEALS TO GO
SPECIALTY SHOPS FIG DELICATESSEN Part kitchen, part market, Fig serves everything from shawarma to roast lamb. Cooking at home? Our extensive grocery selection will provide you with all the ingredients for your own recipes. 1551 Cedar Hill Road (south side between Cedar Hill Crossroad and Shelbourne), Victoria, BC 250-727-3632 info@figdeli.ca
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 43
SALT SPRING ISLAND FERNWOOD ROAD CAFE A funky little cafe with an incredible view, great coffee and lots of home baking – for breakfast, lunch and dessert. Come and enjoy the water view. Starting in May we’re open Friday nights from 6-8pm for tunes and treats. 325 Fernwood Road (just across from the Fernwood dock, north end) Salt Spring Island, BC, V8K 1C3 250-931-2233, www.fernwoodcafe.com
HASTINGS HOUSE Dining Room Voted the World’s Best Romantic Hotel in 2014, "Hastings House offers both Fine and Casual dining in either the main dining room or in our newly designed Bistro. Both menus are inspired by award winning chef Marcel Kauer using the freshest of local ingredients" www.hastingshouse.com 1-800-661-9255 160 Upper Ganges Road, Salt Spring Island
MATTICK’S FARM ADRIENNE’S RESTAURANT & TEA GARDEN Come and visit us for a wonderful experience with our "Daily Special Menu" in our Restaurant.We offer great pairing options with organic teas, fine Riesling wines, local beers and cider to compliment any meal. We are open daily for Breakfast, Lunch and Afternoon High Tea. 5325 Cordova Bay Road, Victoria, BC, 250-658-1535
VICTORIA PUBLIC MARKET RAVENSTONE FARM ARTISAN MEATS We produce a wide variety of hand crafted meat products made in small batches from locally sourced ingredients. Stop in at our Victoria Public Market shop to browse our selection of fresh sausages, pasture raised meats and smoked deli cuts or enjoy one of our delicious deli sandwiches. 1701 Douglas Street. (The Victoria Public Market) (778) 432 2899 Open 7 days a week
VICTORIA PUBLIC MARKET The Market highlights local Artisans and food producers at every level; it’s the freshest, tastiest place on Vancouver Island! Enjoy our Day Vendors and Entertainment every Wed and Sat 11am–3pm Open 7 days a week 1701 Douglas Street, Downtown Victoria
WHISK Summer in Victoria is warm temperatures, BBQ, visitors and weddings! Come to Whisk for the perfect, unique wedding gift, discover fun and useful gadgets like the veg spiralizer, BBQ tools and aprons and of course, Fiestaware. At the Vic Public Market. 778 433 9184. On the web, whiskvictoria.ca Facebook and Instagram. Open 7 days a week
FARM & DINE
THE ROOST FARM BAKERY & WINERY BISTRO
The Roost passionately grows its own food and wine on 10 acres for a true Saanich Peninsula farm to table experience. A food destination like no other. 9100 East Saanich Road, North Saanich, BC 250.655.0075 www.RoostFarmCentre.com
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
43
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 44
g VINCABULARY By Treve Ring
Grüner Veltliner } {Gew-new VEHLT-ly-ner} Though the grooviness of Austria’s star white grape is appreciated and adored by wine professionals the world over, GrüVe’s charm is generally lost on the public. Is it the umlaut that trips people up? Or the relative scarcity of GV on our shelves? If the beguiling charm of this crisp, herbal, lemon oil slicked and white pepper scented grape isn’t alluring enough in youth, wait until a few years’ maturity turns this zesty acidity into honeyed, stony and profound wine, akin to fine chenin blanc, sémillon or chardonnay. High quality grüner can last for a couple of decades or be a refreshing aperitif or partner for your mid-week supper. Amazingly food-friendly, GV shines as a partner for tricky foods like artichokes, asparagus and arugula as easily as it pairs up with Weiner Schnitzel, grilled oily sardines or spicy curries.
HONEYED
palate generously carrying white grapefruit through the lengthy, white pepper finish. 88 points.
Weingut Bründlmayer 2009 Kamptaler Terrassen Grüner Veltliner Kamptal, Austria *$22.62 +141358 This shows Brundlmayer’s strength in consistently crafting complex and mineral-driven grüner veltliner, built to age. Honey, dried pear and whiffs of petrol on the nose. The fuller palate carries stony weight along with baked pear and apple, white blossoms, pine nuts, wild honey, herbal grasses, lemon, white grapefruit and white pepper, finishing with warming alpine herbs. 91 points.
Count Karolyi 2013 Gruner Veltliner Hungary $7.50 +156463 If you're looking to explore grüner without breaking the bank, this well priced Hungarian bottle serves as a terrific gateway to the grape. Zippy lemon pith, white peach and crisp green apples rip across a juicy, stony palate, complemented with green grass, Asian pear and finishing with white peppery spice and subtle meadow herbs. 88 points.
STONY
SLENDER
Stift Goettweig 2013 Gruner Veltliner Trocken Messwein Kremstal, Austria *$20 + 442939 White flowers, lemon blossom, meadow grasses and dried herbs open this stony, oily and medium-bodied white. A juicy palate brightens the oily heft, and draws pear skin, lemon, white grapefruit, dried thyme, greengage, minerals and lemongrass through the lengthy finish. Fine, potent white pepper throughout. 90 points.
De Vine Vineyards 2014 Grü-V Grüner Veltliner Estate, Saanich Peninsula, Vancouver Island, BC *19.91 This GV shows the citrusy herbs, lime pith, wildflowers, savoury stone and green apple that I've come to recognize from this Saanich Peninsula site. A slender 11 percent alcohol, finishing with shining lemon peel and delicate white pepper spice. More a whisper than a shout. 88 points.
JUICY
HERBAL SPICY Culmina Family Estate 2014 Unicus Oliver, Okanagan Valley, BC *$25 + 611699 You'll be forgiven for thinking you're nosing a sauvignon blanc, with heaps of cut grass, bright lychee, exotic gooseberry, white peach and bright lemon peel on this shining grüner veltliner. Ripe, spicy pear, persimmon, pineapple rind, peach, grapefruit, bitter lemon pith, green apple and Asian pear on the super spicy, bracing palate, with the oily
Laurenz V. 2013 Und Sophie Singing Grüner Veltliner Niederösterreich, Austria $20 + 458034 Spring meadow, gooseberry, green fig, white pepper and green apple open this stony, herb brushed grüner. The dry, oily, citrus slicked and medium bodied palate carries dried and fresh herbs, chamomile, fine meadow flowers, tangerine, white grapefruit, stony spice and green fig to a zesty, pithy finish. 89 points.
*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores.
44
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 45
g A BEER AND A BITE By Colin Hynes
INDIA SUMMER ALE Persephone Brewing with Toast with avocado, cucumber and radish.
Colin Hynes
THE BEER:
THE BITE:
India Summer Ale - Persephone Brewing (Gibson’s, BC)
Toast with smashed avocado, cucumber and radish.
Now that it’s hot out, it's time to grab a beer that can refresh you. The Persephone ISA is just the ticket. It has a citrusy-mandarin orange flavour to it; as well, they use pilsner malts to add some character. This beer is low on the alcohol scale, which makes it perfect for hanging out at the beach or the park with friends. ABV: 5.5% (persephonebrewing.com)
When it gets so hot in July and August that you feel you can’t even function, there is nothing as compelling as an easy-to-make, but great tasting, dinner or lunch. This open-faced toast is incredibly simple: just go get a baguette, drizzle it with olive oil, and fry its face off; then grab some avocado slices and smash them onto the toast; after that, it is as easy as layering on the cucumber, radish, salt and pepper.
THE CONCLUSION: Persephone Brewing’s ISA is light and hoppy enough that it can pair with any nonspicy summer food (ok, maybe not salad). It works perfectly with the rich avocado and ripe cucumber, but watch out because the radish can sneak in and give a bit of zip to the toast. E
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
45
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 46
g TERROIR
fYb jY g ] b k Y]W Y] c gb UYgc Z c hi
Y figUY f h e b YiiW ]V · g ggU[ c `h Yd[ c UZ fa c b ]b hU] hgYXk b W Y] Y] c fmi Y fUk Y
&  ) e W " c V$ iW ] fc " + k '`Ua \$  k hW c ]" U hk f]f( j h" '*g hYY f hg g% c UX[ i`
46
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
By Michelle Bouffard
Southern Rhône Restored
The wines coming out of this sun-drenched valley in the south of France have never been better. BLESSED WITH A MEDITERRANEAN CLIMATE, the southern Rhône Valley is paradise for grape growing. When the papal court briefly relocated to Avignon in the 14th century, the pope’s love for Châteauneuf-du-Pape gave the latter a prestigious reputation. But there is much more beyond this small and famous appellation. The Rhône Valley is France’s second most productive wine region, and the southern Rhone Valley is responsible for 95 percent of the Rhône Valley’s production. Despite its long history and tradition, the region is far from being stagnant. During my recent visit in March, I was astonished by the area’s incredible dynamism. At the annual press conference last March for Inter Rhône, a professional association bringing together the valley’s wine growers and wine merchants, the iconic producer Michel Chapoutier spoke about the region’s focus on quality. “[Quality] needs to come from the bottom up,” said Chapoutier. “This includes the entry-level wines made in high volume.” Research centres have made a lot of progress, says Chapoutier, and are giving tools to local wineries to make better wines. “Until recently, too many wines were oxidized and smelled like barnyard [a symptom of brettanomyces, a form of yeast, in the wines].” He is proud that the region has been a leader within France in making cleaner wines. Organic viticulture is another asset the region is banking on to promote and position their wines on the local and international market. Over the past couple of decades, many producers have adopted sustainable practices, minimizing the use of man-made chemicals in the vineyards. A dry climate makes it easy to adapt this practice. The conversion to fully organic vineyards is a natural progression. Today, 40 percent of the wines produced in the Rhône Valley are organic. However, as Michel Chapoutier warns us, while organic viticulture is the way of the future, clean winemaking is still key. “In the old times, the butter was organic and rancid. Today, our knowledge allows us to make organic butter that is not rancid. It is the same thing with wine. One must not forget how to make wine. Organic viticulture alone is not enough to make good wine,” says Chapoutier. The wines of the Southern Rhône have everything to attract wine consumers. Amid the diversity, they all share their friendly, voluptuous fruit. Rich and unctuous, they easily win the hearts of New World wine drinkers while still charming wine lovers in the old world. Southern Rhône wines are made from a blend of grape varieties that have made a happy home in this Mediterranean climate. Most people associate the region with red wines. And yet while trying hundreds of wines a day at the biannual wine fair Découvertes en Vallée du Rhône, what surprised me most were the whites. Full of character, with fragrant, exotic and citrus aromas, they combine richness and freshness. Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier are the main players. The production of these gems, which currently represents only about six percent of the Rhone Valley’s total output is predicted to increase in the coming years. Meaty, colourful rosés offer a great option when you want something richer than a white but lighter than a red. Grenache Noir and Cinsault tend to dominate, but a splash of Syrah and Mourvèdre among other grapes keeps diversity going strong. The reds represent 95 percent of production in the Southern Rhône. At home in these arid conditions where drought is often a problem, Grenache is the most regularly planted grape. It is responsible for giving those heady wines irresistibly lush flavours of raspberry and wild strawberry. The generous fruit is well complemented by dry herb notes, thanks to the garrigues bushes that surround the vineyards. Grenache is often blended with Mourvèdre, which gives the latter colour, structure and ageability. Found in the Southern Rhône only in the past 45 years, Syrah is also often used in blends, though it frequently suffers in this hot climate, growing only in the cooler sites. Other suspects you might encounter are Carignan, Counoise and Cinsault. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is still a go-to for wine collectors and wine aficionados, but
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 47
beyond that, the Southern Rhône Valley offers a plethora of well-priced wines from lesser-known appellations. Nestled in the hills of the famous Dentelles de Montmirail, Gigondas is often referred to as the poor man’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is, however, a fantastic region that has come into its own. Thanks to the complex geology and the Dentelles, which limit morning sunlight, Gigondas produces complex reds that are fresh and capable of aging. Look in particular for those from Montfaucon and Santa-Duc. At the foot of Montmirail, Rasteau’s amphitheatre-shaped vineyards create a unique microclimate. The top reds offer an unparallelled combination of power, spice and elegant freshness. Le Domaine Montirius is a long-time favourite. White and rosé are found in small amount. My coup de coeur goes to the wines from the small Lirac appellation. The white, red and rosé are all equally seductive. Terraces of vineyards planted between garrigues bushes are found on three distinct types of soil. It is the combination of power, freshness and minerality that makes these wines so appealing. Domaine de la Mordorée is the place to go here. There is no region that says value like Costières de Nîme, Ventoux and Luberon. Making every hue of wine, these lesser-known appellations benefit from a marked day-to-night temperature difference, which gives freshness to the wines. Luberon’s whites are particularly intriguing with their dash of Vermentino. One cannot talk about the Southern Rhône without mentioning Côtes-du-Rhône and Côtes-du-Rhône Villages. Incredible value can be found in both. The latter has superior terroir giving more concentrated wines. Especially look for Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Cairanne. Blessed with old vines and clay-based soil, it produces dense wine that can age well. It is expected to become a single appellation (Cairanne AOC) this year. The range of flavours allows for endless food and wine pairing. Chapoutier emphasizes that this is another area the region needs to exploit and market. “Culinary habits are changing. The world of spice is fascinating, and great pairings with Asian and Southeast Asian food can be made” says Chapoutier. I could not agree more. One of the most recent stunning matches I experienced was a Magret de Canard marinated in Moroccan spice and served with a Vacqueyras. My mouth is still watering. The quality of the wines from the Southern Rhône has never been better. Those who have been faithful to the region will continue to be. Wine drinkers who prefer fruitdriven New World wine will no doubt be tempted. You could not find an easier bridge to cross over. Santé! E
OLD ISLAND VINES NEW CLASSIC WINES
Whites 2013 Domaine de la Bastide, Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc AOC, *$18-22 Thanks to Viognier, which dominates the blend (70 percent), this wine explodes with the tropical aromas of guava and pineapple. A great match with Asian cuisine featuring ginger. 2013 Guigal Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc AOC, *$23-27 Intriguing exotic nose with notes of apple skin, orange blossom and marzipan. Rich texture with pleasant bitter notes. Crab it is!
Reds 2011 Château de Montfaucon, Côtes-du-Rhone AOC, *$22-25 A long-time favourite that once again delivers. Pure juicy raspberries, strawberries and mineral notes. Elegant and great value. 2012 Domaine Beau Mistral, ‘Sélection Vieilles Vignes’ Rasteau AOC, $29-33 (SKU# 577908) Characterful with wild bramble, black licorice and seductive violet notes on the palate. Full-bodied. Canard, s’il vous plait! 2013 M. Chapoutier, ‘Belleruche’ Côtes-du-Rhône AOC, $17-20 (SKU#476846) Friendly with aromas of plum, licorice and grilled herbs. Slightly rustic but charming and easy to like. Camping wine? 2011 Domaine les Pallières, ‘Les Racines’ Gigondas AOC, *$43-47 Made from grapes grown on 60-year-old vines, this Gigondas is dense, rich and voluptuous. Deliciously charming, it asks to be served with red meat, preferably wild game. 2013 Famille Perrin, Tavel Rosé AOC, $22.50-25 (SKU# 241224) Can’t decide if you want white or red? This rosé from the premium region of Tavel is a good compromise. Meaty with rhubarb and orange peel notes, this full-bodied rosé needs food. Bouillabaisse or paella? *Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores.
New tasting room and winery open from 11am to 5pm daily. 2182 LAKESIDE ROAD, DUNCAN, BC
@BlueGrouseWines
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
47
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 48
g WHAT TO DRINK WITH THAT —By Treve Ring Pairing suggestions from the pros.
A Summer Picnic Menu Smoked Salmon & Cream Cheese with Capers & Red Onion ~ Green Bean-and-Tomato Salad with Tarragon Dressing ~ Potato Salad with Bacon, Celery & Scallions ~ Crispy Buttermilk Fried Chicken ~ Raspberry-Peach Hand Pies T H I S
M O N T H ’ S
E X P E RT S
Bailey Williamson (BW) Blue Grouse Estate Winery Burnaby-raised Bailey Williamson wrote a food column for the school newspaper suggesting simple recipes for broke college students, and afterward, spent a good chunk of his life pursuing work in the culinary arts. In 1993 he relocated to Victoria and became involved in the blooming “farm to table” movement. He has worked his way up from the bottom at several wineries, including five years as Assistant Winemaker at Road 13 Vineyards before accepting the call of the Grouse to serve as Winemaker and Vineyard Manager for Duncan’s Blue Grouse Estate Winery and Vineyard.
Jay Jones (JJ) Canucks Sports & Entertainment Jay Jones is the Director of Wine & Beverage for Canucks Sports & Entertainment. With nearly two decades in BC’s hospitality industry, Jones brings game and concertgoers at Rogers Arena a premium quality, beverage experience. Prior to joining the Canucks, Jones held the positions of Bar Manager and Wine Director at several award-winning Vancouver restaurants, including West and Market by Jean-Georges, as well as Araxi in Whistler. In 2014, he was named Bartender of the Year at the 25th Annual Vancouver Restaurant Awards. He has been previously honoured as the first Bartender ever inducted to the BC Restaurant Hall of Fame and named Canadian Bartender of the Year by Air Canada EnRoute. BW. I would be inclined to start with a bright, crisp Cava with the smoked salmon it would be a good foil to the smoke. For the cold salads and the crispy fried buttermilk chicken, a nice Tavel rosé from the south of France would not go astray, or perhaps a nice fresh gamay, chilled. Dolcetto might work as well, again chilled (don’t be afraid to chill light red wines). I choose these because they are a bit more robust with fruit and some light tannins, but quenching and refreshing as well and would stand up to menu items. With the peach and raspberry pies, a thermos of cold espresso and a bit of grappa as a digestif (there are some excellent local examples) then find a nice shady tree and picture yourself in a boat on a river with tangerine trees and marmalade skies...
CRAFT ROASTED COFFEES DIRECT TRADE SEASONAL MICRO LOT
48
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
JJ. Start with a Languedoc rosé with lively and pretty floral aromatics and juicy orange fruit. The sharpness of caper and onion will be quelled by bright acidity. The green bean and tomato salad will suit cool climate Australian dry riesling; crisp and fresh notes complement the food while effusive tarragon is supported by herb and vegetable traits within the riesling’s bright lemon character. The potato salad can handle Tavel rosé’s robust flavours and charming red fruit aroma, supported by backbone and substance. The glorious fat and salt of fried chicken skin call for Mosel spätlese riesling. The dish will be by natural sweetness and tropical fruit flavours, supported by a rich weight that stands up buttery meat and with acidity to clean the palate between bites. For the pies, go with a new world aromatic sparking sweet wine (I recommend one from the Okanagan Valley). Its golden sweet stone fruits and light effervescence creates a soft sensation that enhances the fresh impressions of summer orchard fruits. In these pairing columns we don’t use specific recipes. Similar recipes to these can be found on the web.
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 49
g LIQUID ASSETS —By Larry Arnold SPARKLING: Sartori Di Verona Prosecco Brut NV Italy $16.90-19.90 + tax You don’t need to spend a lot of money to drink well. This elegant little sparkler from the vine-covered foothills north of Venice is a fine example. It is light and dry with a lovely mousse and subtle fruit flavours. It is the perfect way to start an evening.
B O A R D W A L K
P A T I O
WHITE WINES: See Ya Later Ranch Chardonnay 2014 Okanagan Valley $15.00-$18.00 plus tax I have fond memories of this property in a previous incarnation. The view from the vineyard is stunning but the pet cemetery and a close encounter with a rattlesnake had us all rattled. Full-bodied with lush tropical fruit, spice and toasty oak flavours, a rich creamy texture and a finish that just keeps going. Louis Moreau Petit Chablis 2013 France $24.60-27.00 + tax When it comes to Chablis, Petit Chablis is the lowest of the low. It is entry-level wine, sourced from grapes grown on the outskirts of Chablis, but who cares when it tastes this good. It is crisp and lively, its fruitiness enhanced by that stony minerality unique to Chablis. Dom de la Vieille Cure Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2013 France $16.00-18.00 + tax If you have heard of Muscadet but never tasted it, look no further, this is a classic Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie as it should be. Located 12 km southeast of Nantes in the Loire Valley, the 21-hectare vineyard is planted on the slopes of Saint Fiacre on the river Maine, the very epicenter of Muscadet country. The vineyard is farmed organically but is not certified as such but no herbicides or pesticides are used. Crisp and dry with great minerality and citrus notes. Very clean, very direct, very fresh. Douglas Green Chardonnay 2014 South Africa $11.00-13.00 + tax Rich and creamy but not over the top. This value-price Chardonnay is easy to like with ripe pineapple and melon flavours laced with a hint of vanilla and toasty oak. Not overly complex but delicious. Vignerons de Buxy Buissonnier Montagny 2011 France $22.50-25.50 + tax Located a few kilometres south of Beaune, Montagny lies in the Cote Chalonnaise, between the Cote d’Or to the north and the Maconnais to the south. One hundred percent Chardonnay, this very refined Montagny is firm yet fruity with peach, pear and floral aromas, good weight with a slightly creamy texture, crisp acidity and lovely fruit, spice and mineral flavours Lorenzon Borgo dei Vassalli Friulano 2013 Italy $15.00-17.00 + tax The Vassalli vineyard is located deep in the heart of the Isonso DOC in southeastern Friuli. Fruity and floral with subtle herbal notes that defy description. Fresh and vibrant on the palate with ripe fruit flavours and soft acidity! Superb! Alderlea Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Cowichan Valley $17.00-19.00 + tax Super fresh with grapefruit, citrus, and peach flavours, light and subtle with a soft, refreshing finish. Sauvignon Blanc, pure and simple, island grown. Go figure.
RED WINES: Tinhorn Creek Okanagan Valley Cabernet Franc 2012 BC $21.70-24.00 + tax Redolent with scents of raspberries, violets, black currants and herbs; the aromas just keep coming at you! Medium-bodied with a dark red fruit core, brisk acidity, a firm tannic grip and a long finish. Best served slightly cool.
Stop by for comfort food on the go...we’re fido friendly! Coast Victoria Harbourside Hotel & Marina
bluecrab.ca
RESTAURANT At T
L Locally ocally Inspired Inspired West West Coast Coast Cuisine Cuisine Lunch: Wed – Sun, 12 pm – 4 pm Afternoon Tea: Wed– Sun, 12 pm – 4 pm Dinner: Wed – Sun, 5 pm – 9 pm FFor or R Reservations es e r va call 250-381-3456 | 309 Belleville Street, Victoria, BC | Huntingdonmanor.com TheGatsbyMansion H
ON THIS FARM THERE ARE SOME WINE CHICKS... MMMmm Rosé
MMmmm Blush
"Think Pink!"
VQA Wine Shop at
MATTICK’S FARM
Delas Saint-Esprit Cotes du Rhone 2013 France $17.25-19.50 + tax This robust red is nicely balanced with sweet raspberry, vanilla and earth flavours, supple and nicely balanced with a long soft finish. Delicious.
Open 7 days a week
5325 Cordova Bay Rd.
Terre Valpolicella 2013 Italy $14.00-16.00 + tax Bone dry, with red cherry, strawberry and dusty earth aromas, medium bodied with soft acidity, fresh berry flavours and a patina of dusty tannins. A solid everyday red for pizza or tomato based sauces. Averill Creek Pinot Noir Reserve 2009 Vancouver Island $58.75-63.00 + tax Wow! The wine is as breathtaking as the price. Nicely balanced, with beautiful forward fruit on the nose leading into heady layers of black cherry, earth and spice flavours. E Absolutely delicious to drink now but this beauty has what it takes to continue to improve with time. Some pretty solid pinots coming out of the Cowichan Valley the last few years. Super. E
250.480.1999
250-658-3116
www.vqawineshop.ca
Established 1998
Our service can best be described as “Knowledgeable, yet not pretentious… …approachable, with a hint of sass!”
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
49
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 50
The Buzz VICTORIA: Don’t you like it when you stumble onto a happy surprise? Something completely unexpected that makes your world a little bit better? This happened to me a few weeks ago when I ran to my neighbourhood corner store to grab a missing ingredient for dinner. To the side of the entrance was a beautiful big new sign that said ‘The Market Garden’. My heart skipped a beat – was someone selling local produce at the Oceanic Market? (I’ve long been harbouring a fantasy that someone might transform the closest mini-mart to my house into a local grocery mecca in the style of the Niagara Grocery) Once inside, I scanned the store in search of some change that would explain the new sign outside, but everything looked the same. So I asked the owner, who was behind the till, what the sign was about. “A guy is renting my backyard,” he explained. “He’s got some plants back there – you should check it out. Down the lane.” Down the lane (Bella St) I went, where I discovered that “he’s got some plants back there” was something of an understatement. Lush lettuce plants, artichoke, tomato, pepper, rhubarb starts (and more) were on display at the edge of a robust, versatile vegetable garden. Ryan Timothy Townsend has transformed the Oceanic’s backyard into an incredible oasis for urban farmers. He’s built a greenhouse on the side of the building and another hut where he keeps his organic seeds – some 213 varieties, including many stunning heirloom selections. You have to see it for yourselves – he’s out back at 810 Catherine Street. Or at the very least, check out his gorgeous seed catalog at themarketgarden.ca. And that isn’t the only exciting food news on the other side of the harbour! Late May saw the launch of the new Esquimalt Farmer’s Market, held every Thursday from 4.30-8.30 in the Esquimalt Town Square. The new market has an impressive list of recurring vendors, including Makaria Farms, Green Fire Farms, Red Damsel Farms, Warmland Organics and more. Food trucks in regular attendance include the Taco Revolution truck, Happy Rooster, Juma – Victoria’s first farm-to-fork food truck, featuring lamb, pork and chicken from the owner’s family farm in Saanich (you can also find them at Moss St Market on Saturdays and Oaklands Sunset Market on Wednesdays). Find out more at esquimaltmarket.com. Open for the summer season, the Point Ellice House Restaurant has expanded operations. Now called O’Reilly’s, they are serving breakfast and lunch in addition to their Victorian-style Afternoon Tea. O’Reilly’s is open Thursday through Monday 9am-4pm, with indoor and garden seating options. Reservations are recommended. (pointellicehouse.ca) Nourish Kitchen and Café, the delightful food operation that has been charming visitors at the Horticulture Centre of the Pacific for several years, has found a home for their second location in the Inner Harbour. Nourish in the Harbour has taken over the heritage house (that was previously home to Chongo’s) and is offering full service dining from 11am-3pm on weekdays, and 9am-3pm on weekends, in addition to a self-service café and bar from 8am -5pm. From their website: “Our heritage home location will come to life with rooms to mingle and rooms to gather.” (nourishkitchen.ca) In other news, a new ramen restaurant in Saanich featuring a third generation noodle maker, no MSG or preservatives, and a stubborn chef who cooks with love, Stubborn Chef, is getting quite a bit of buzz. (facebook.com/stubbornchef.noodle) Finally, if you are in town over the weekend of July 16-19, you don’t
50
EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015
want to miss Taste – Victoria’s Festival of Food and Wine. Organizer Kathy McAree does an impeccable job with every event on the calendar, but perennial favourites are the Swine and the Vine, celebrating the “wonders of everything Pig”, and The Big Catch – a West Coast seafood boil featuring fresh seafood from Finest at Sea and select local winemakers. (victoriataste.com) This just in: The new opened Farmers City Market is a collectively owned & operated market shop in Artisan Courtyard off Fan Tan Alley. Expect basic, local-only groceries and food. The collective of producers changes monthly (thefarmerscitymarket.com). —REBECCA BAUGNIET
COWICHAN VALLEY | UP ISLAND: On a spectacular warm May day I headed up Island for Blue Grouse Winery's Grand Opening, but I couldn't pass up the opportunity to take in the Duncan Saturday market along the way. While the farms, bakeries and wineries I've mentioned might not be new to everyone, they're all outstanding and worth tracking down beyond the market. First, stop by Henry & Jones (henryandjonesgrassfedbeef.com) for some born here, raised here, finished here, grass-fed dry aged beef. This stellar beef is full of vitamins and minerals not found in grocery store meat, and is lower in saturated fat as well as super tasty. Find your perfect accompaniment at 8 1/2Acres Farmstand, Lockwood Farms, and KilRenny Farm (kilrennyfarm.com) from a choice selection of local vegetables grown organically and lovingly for your plate. In case you want to add authentic Mexican flavours, Ixim (facebook.com/iximcanada) will take you there with her handmade, pure corn tortillas and taco spice. (Incidentally, you can also get Ixim tortillas at the Sidney and Cedar markets as well as their Taco Revolution Truck at the James Bay Mkt.) For those of you who love a good loaf of bread with your feast, be sure to stop at Well Bred (facebook.com/wellbred) for a handcrafted artisan loaf - get there early or your butter will be lonely! Newcomer Emandare Vineyard (emandarevineyard.com) has recently released their adventures of 2014; in a bottle of Siegerrebe Gewürztraminer or Sauvignon Blanc made from the oldest Sav vines on the island. Finish up with a decadent gluten free delight from Bake My Day (bakemyday.ca) - you won't miss the gluten in these treats. Some of you may be familiar with chef Bradford Boisvert's wonderful new project; Cure Meat and Cheese (curemeatandcheese.com). Now as an added bonus, a new brick oven pizza shop - Tortaluna Pizzaria (facebook.com/tortaluna) - has just opened upstairs and they are incorporating charcuterie from the Cure. Also, new - and upon this writing, yet to be openned - is Red Arrow Brewing (redarrowbeer.ca)company located in a beautiful brick building in the heart of Duncan. Depending on your desire they will soon offer a hefeweizen, umber ale, kolsch, and an IPA - if they are as tasty as they sound it will be a great summer for sipping. Moving over to Salt Spring Island and the first ever Garlic Festival taking place August 8-9th at Paradise Farm on the south end of the Island. Salt Spring Seeds, among others will show off over a dozen varieties of locally produced garlic in cooking demos and various tastings. Visit saltspringgarlicfestival.com for ticket info and full description. Finally, in the Comox Valley, a trio of new craft breweries; popular Cumberland Brewery (cumberlandbrewing.com), Gladstone Brewery (gladstonebrewing.ca) - on tap at The White Whale Public House, Atlas Cafe, The Waverly Hotel, and Gladstone Lounge - as well as the soon to be opened Forbidden Brewery (forbidden brewing.com). Spirit producer Wayward Distillation House
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 51
The Buzz (waywarddistillationhouse.com) is also new, crafting a unique duo; Unruly Gin & Unruly Vodka. What makes all of their products unlike anything else is their process of making mead with all natural unpasteurized honey, heating it once it's matured and collecting the alcohol vapours in a custom designed still developed specifically to handle delicate honey. Dry and smooth with just a suggestion of sweet, these spirits are a wonderful addition to our growing Island collection. If you are more in favour of the 'black brew' there's a new coffee truck called The Red Wagon located on Ryan Road beside Airport Service and Mini Storage. The now closed Becky's Country Bakery lives on in the truck with the next generation; Becky's daughter Dallas and her new family. Sign up for their newsletter so you don't miss any of the many community minded events they have planned (redwagoncoffee@gmail.com). In case you're wondering, I did find my way to the spectacular venue and award winning wines of Blue Grouse Winery - despite the distractions - making it a memorable day full of tasty discoveries I'm happy to be able to pass along to you. (bluegrouse.ca) —KIRSTEN TYLER The TOFINO Buzz will return in September
Butter Up
By Gillie Easdon
Is it possible to improve on something as perfect as butter? Churn’s handcrafted creations say “yes.”
1715 Government Street 250.475.6260 www.lecole.ca eat@lecole.ca
Dinner 5:30 - 11 pm Tuesday to Saturday
W
ith a spoonful of Churn’s Sage & Shallot butter melting in my mouth, I beam, recalling my first rendezvous with homemade butter more than 30 years ago. Churn’s is smooth and rich. Sweet organic cream fuses with rice-vinegar-poached shallots and fresh sage for a balanced and delicious butter. Later I enjoy it on steak and it is amazing. I don’t usually go for tampering with something perfect like butter. I am not one for a lavender shortbread or a cardamom However, Churn is the exception. brûlée. Bonnie Todd, also of Off the Eaten Track culinary walking tours, hand-churns her gourmet butters at one of The CommissaryConnect kitchens in Vancouver, a network of shared commercial kitchens for small businesses. Using Avalon’s 36 percent whipping cream (the highest percentage of milk fat locally available), she creates both savoury and sweet butters. Todd, originally from Comox, experienced her own housemade butter epiphany as a server at La Pentola in Yaletown’s Opus Hotel in 2013. She started making her own butter for herself and appreciative friends and family, then bought Churn from Carol Viau in 2014. I tried three butters from a current assortment of six: three savoury and three sweet. The Peppercorn Brandy was gently spiced, melding the heat and spike of the pepper with the warmth of the brandy. The wonderful flavour hits me first, but what also strikes me is how the ingredients come together seamlessly. I sautéed mushrooms with it and this was beautiful hot, and also cold the next day. The Bacon and Parmesan butter I enjoyed on its own because, really, what more do you need? It was salty, sweet, creamy and splendid. I’ll add bread or roasted Brussels sprouts next time. Maybe. The sweet butters, such as Tart Cherry and Sherry (for duck and pork tenderloin) and the Roasted Almond and Date (for bagels or a charcuterie platter), I have yet to sample. The Grocer at the Hudson has been holding tastings in tandem with the French Oven Bakery. A perfect gift for a friend, family, housewarming or for yourself. In Victoria, Churn is available at The Grocer in the Hudson, Aubergine Specialty Foods and The Little Cheese Shop. Also available in Vancouver stores and markets. (thelocalchurn.ca).
Featuring local, all natural, free-range Deli meats and salamis Quality meats, Poultry, Cheeses, Specialty Products & Condiments
2577 Cadboro Bay Road,VICTORIA
592-0823
www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015
51
EAT Magazine July_Aug 2015_Victoria_52_Layout 1 6/24/15 9:48 AM Page 52
Penna & Co. #130 – 7 7 7 Royal Oak Drive Victoria 250 -727 7-2110
Mu f f e t & L o u i s a #109 – 2506 B eacon Ave Sidney 250 - 656 - 0 011
u a l i t y Fo o d s A S t e p A b ov Comox , Cour tenay, Powell River, and Q ualicum B each w w w.qualit y foods .com
C o o k wa re | B a kewa re | Ta b l ewa re | A c c e s s o r i e s