Eat magazine Sept Oct 2017 by EAT Magazine

EAT Magazine SEPT/OCT 2017_Victoria_56_Layout 1 9/8/17 1:59 PM Page 1

R E S TA U R A N T S | R E C I P E S | W I N E S | F O O D | C U LT U R E

LOCAL FOOD & CULTURE

L O C A L F O O D & C U L T U R E • S E P T E M B E R | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7. I S S U E 2 1 - 0 5 INDEPENDENT & ISLAND OWNED

EAT THIS NOW Spiced Pear Upside-Down Cake pg. 33

the TRAVEL issue J A PA N • I TA LY • O K A N AG A N • R I C H M O N D

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Welcome

Heavenly BC

Apple Ring

For me, fall is a time for travel. I long to get out there to discover new places, cultures, and foods. Leaving Vancouver Island during the summer months would mean I’d miss the sunny season with our fantastic local farm produce, serene blue ocean, and trips to the beach for picnics and swimming. But when the weather begins to turn back towards winter again, it’s the perfect time to pack a bag and hit the road. Visiting a city as it transitions from the crazed throngs of summer visitors to a city where the local inhabitants take back their neighbourhoods and re-start their normal routines is the time to go. Museums are less crowded, there are many more drink and culinary events to attend, and restaurants seem more welcoming and less hectic. It’s the best time of year to feel a part of the city rather than during peak tourist season.

Pancakes

In this issue, which I’ve dubbed our ﬁrst ever Travel Issue, four well-travelled EAT scribes take us on their journeys—both far and near. Joseph Blake and Sol Kauﬀman head to Italy and Japan respectively. Joseph eats his way up the Adriatic coast of the boot and Sol goes on a ride-supreme along an ancient Buddhist route. Cinda Chavich and Shelora Sheldan stay a little closer to home; Cinda digs in and takes an extensive tour of Richmond, BC’s top hole-in-the-wall Chinese restaurants, considered to be some of the best outside of China and Hong Kong, and Shelora explores the Okanagan Valley to put together an insider’s guide (she lives in Penticton) to the Okanagan’s best, little known eateries. Come along for the ride; I hope it inspires you to make your own travel plans.

Gary Hynes

GARY HYNES FOUNDER & EDITOR

CITY EATS:

REBECCA BAUGNIET

Victoria chef Kunal Ghose is expanding his food empire once more. The owner of FishHook on Fort St. is planning to open outlets in three new locations around town. Follow Kunal on Twitter (@CheﬁshBlueﬁsh) to keep up with developments. New take out or eat in options in Esquimalt: Kwao Thai Restaurant opened at 1207A Esquimalt Road in early August. Signs are up for a new Vietnamese BBQ place called Saigon Char-broil in the space next door, in the former location of Salty’s Fish and Chips.

Make these delicious BC Apple Ring Pancakes today!

A unique new business has been approved following a City of Victoria bylaw amendment to allow vending on a bicycle. Curbside Treats launched in July, and has been spotted serving icy treats along local beaches such as the Esquimalt Lagoon, Royal Bay Beach Park and Langford Lake. You can follow their movement on social media. FACEBOOK.COM/CURBSIDETREATSVICTORIA

Visit eatmagazine.ca for news and events from: COWICHAN VALLEY UP ISLAND TOFINO UCLELET VANCOUVER

Joe Cunliffe (Cafe Bliss and Be Love), along with three close friends involved in his previous ventures, have bought the Country Rose Pub in Colwood. The well-loved secret hideaway for long-time locals will be getting a facelift and new menu (not vegan). The pub is scheduled to reopen early in September. FACEBOOK.COM/COUNTRY-ROSE-PUB It used to be a challenge to find falafel in this city, but now we have options! In the past year we have seen the opening of Yalla, Café Tulip, Superbaba, and most recently, Café Layla, on the corner of Broughton and Langley St. Serving Lebanese and Middle Eastern cuisine, Café Layla was founded by long-time restaurateur Kent Johma, who previously owned The Hummus Brothers restaurant in Prince George. Open for lunch and dinner Mon-Sat and lunch on Sunday. CAFELAYLAVICTORIA.COM Excitement is building as more plans for a Merridale Distillery and Restaurant at Dockside Green are released. The 40-seat ground floor restaurant with seasonal roof-top seating area is expected to open by mid 2019, so we still have a bit of waiting to do. MERRIDALE.CA

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Source local Eat happy thriftyfoods. thriftyfoods.com com

1.800 1.800.667.8280 .667.8280

Connect with us 3

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CITY EATS: The Nimble Bar Company is a full-service media and marketing agency specializing in food and beverage started by well-known Victoria bartender Nathan Caudle with Kyle Guilfoyle and Reese Richards. They grow brands through innovative cocktail events, high-converting video, and results-driven marketing strategies. A secret weapon for brand development, they execute with tactical eﬃciency and creative ﬂair. NIMBLEBAR.CO

Congrats to the Summit Restaurant at the Villa Eyrie Resort on the Malahat for making it on the contenders list for EnRoute magazine’s Canada’s Best New Restaurants. The Top 10 ranking will be revealed on Oct 19. CANADASBESTNEWRESTAURANTS.COM/EN

At press time there are still tickets available for the Great Canadian Beer Festival, taking place this year Sept 8-9 at the Royal Athletic Park. Tickets are $40.00 for Friday or Saturday (incl tax) plus fees and includes your taster glass, program and BC Transit Get Home Safe bus ticket. They can be purchased in advance online or at the Ticket Rocket Box Oﬃce (101-804 Broughton Street, Victoria Monday to Friday 10am to 5pm). GCBF.COM The Urban Food-Garden Tour on Sept 9 oﬀers the unusual opportunity to visit 14 inspiring home food gardens across Greater Victoria – back yards, front yards, allotments and boulevards. Talk with fellow gardeners and experts about year-round food production, veggies, bees, berries, soil, fowl, design, irrigation, and more. Four free educational stops, including Indigenous gardens in Beacon Hill Park. This is a fundraiser for community sustainable agriculture. Tickets $15 (under 19 free) at GardenWorks locations, online at brownpapertickets.com, and at garden entrances while tickets last. VICURBANFOODGARDENS.WIXSITE.COM/TOUR

The Victoria International Wine Festival returns to the Parkside Hotel and Spa Sept 2223. This is festival showcases some of the best international wines and is directed at building the knowledge of the average wine consumer, and demonstrating new wines and acknowledging beloved wine standards to veteran consumers. VICWF.COM Ottavio Italian Bakery and Delicatessen is turning 20 on Sept 23. From 11am – 3pm stop by to celebrate their ﬁrst twenty years of business in Oak Bay! They will be cracking open a big

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

JULY / AUGUST

wheel of cheese and serving cake and gelato. Friends from Vessel will be sampling Italian wines and Rebecca from Farm & Field Butchers will be roasting some lamb, porchetta style. OTTAVIOVICTORIA.COM Also on Sept 23, the Union Club will be hosting its 3rd annual ART+FARE gala. ART+FARE3 is a celebration of all things local, featuring unique exhibitions by a number of Victoria's ﬁnest art galleries and accompanied by locally sourced fare. All proceeds from sponsorships, auction items and a portion of the art sales go to supporting the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria's Children and Family Educational programs, and towards the conservation and preservation of its collection. Tickets $150 per person. ARTANDFARE.COM

Savour Cowichan and Barge On In Sept 29 & 30 Barge On In is a foodie love-in that celebrates Cowichan’s locally grown and produced food and drink. Held on a ﬂoating barge in Mill Bay, this event invites you to sample a wide variety of local fare, with the waters of the Saanich Inlet serving as a backdrop. Cherry Point, Emandare, Blue Grouse, Rocky Creek, Merridale Cider, Unsworth, Enrico, True Grain Bread, Drumroaster Coﬀee, Hudson's on First - the list of fabulous vendors goes on. TOURISMCOWICHAN.COM/SAVOUR

Vancouver Island’s biggest cocktail celebration, the 9th annual Art of the Cocktail festival will be taking place this year on Oct 14 at the Crystal Gardens. Grand Tasting tickets from $65. For more info turn to page 23. ARTOFTHECOCKTAIL.CA Don’t forget about Gulf Island festival season if you’re up for some ferry rides… the 18th annual Salt Spring Apple Festival is on Oct 1 this year and the Galiano Island Blackberry Festival takes place the following Sat Oct 9 (Thanksgiving weekend). The annual Harvest Grape Stomp on Salt Spring Island will take place at Salt Spring Vineyards, but the date is still TBA. This event features live music, grape-stomping for all with competitions, special wine tastings, local foods and fun for all. (SALTSPRINGVINEYARDS.COM) (SALTSPRINGAPPLEFESTIVAL.COM) (GALIANOFOODPROGRAM.CA)

The 4th annual Stein & Dine presented by Roast Meat & Sandwich Shop takes place inside the Victoria Public Market on Oct 21 at 7:30pm. Tickets are $45 and include a 12 oz. beer stein, 3 drink tickets (12 oz. each), 1 food ticket, live accordian, Octoberfest dancers, beer pong & a giant Roast Jenga. Additional food tickets are $5. STEINANDDINE.COM

Crush - A Fine Wine Affair - Oct 22 Each October, hundreds of wine lovers and collectors descend on the Inn at Laurel Point for the Belfry Theatre’s annual fine wine live auction and event, Crush - A Fine Wine Affair. The evening opens with wine tastings from 20 different vineyards from across the province and an exquisite selection of hors d’oeuvres. The highlight of the evening is the live auction featuring a great selection of fine wine generously donated from the private collections of individuals and local restaurants. Most of the wine on offer at the auction is not available anywhere else. It may have been cellared for many years or imported privately, so unless you have access to a time machine, chances are you will never get another opportunity to see or taste the wines on auction. The auction will be conducted by auctioneer Roshan Vickery, and hosted by sommelier and wine educator Earl Wilde. The auction catalogue and wine descriptions will be posted online as the event takes shape. Crush also features a silent auction with wine gift baskets and packages, dining, travel, and other unique experiences in every price bracket. All proceeds benefit the Belfry Theatre, Victoria’s leading professional theatre company, and a generous tax receipt for a portion of the ticket price will be issued following the event. Tickets are $95.00 (No GST or service charges) and can be booked by calling the Belfry Theatre Box Office at 250-385-6815. BELFRY.BC.CA/CRUSH

Ma s t h e a d FOUNDER & EDITOR

Gary Hynes PUBLISHER

Pacific Island Gourmet CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Carolyn Bateman VANCOUVER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Julie Pegg SENIOR WINE WRITER

Larry Arnold PRODUCTION

Gary Hynes DESIGN CONSULTANT

Aleya Samji COPYEDITOR

Cynthia Annett REGIONAL REPORTERS

Tofino Ucluelet, Jen Dart Victoria, Rebecca Baugniet Cowichan Valley-Up Island, Kirsten Tyler Vancouver, Jennifer Carter CONTRIBUTORS

Larry Arnold Joseph Blake Michelle Bouffard Isabelle Bulota Cinda Chavich Jennifer Danter Pam Durkin Sol Kauffman Sherri Martin Elizabeth Monk Daniel Murphy Daisy Orser Elizabeth Nyland Adrian Paradis André Rozon Adrien Sala Shelora Sheldan Shawn Soole Jill Van Gyn Johann Vincent Rebecca Wellman COVER

Isabelle Bulota (styling) & André Rozon (photo) ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

EAT TALKS SPEAKER SERIES “Well…That Didn't Work Out: Failures, Flops and Frustrations" The second in the EAT Talks series will take place on Monday, Sept 11 at Northern Quarter. The evening will see speakers drawn from the food community, appetizers provided by Northern Quarter and drinks from our sponsors Lighthouse Brewing Co., Tod Creek Craft Cider, Unsworth Vineyards & Salt Spring Vineyards. Visit eventbrite.ca and search “EAT TALKS WELL...THAT DIDN’T WORK OUT”. Tickets are $29.95. Checkout page 10 for more information.

Gary Hynes DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Jen Kinna SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Susan Worrall FACEBOOK/EATMAGAZINE TWITTER/EATMAGAZINE INSTAGRAM/EATMAG For advertising and other inquiries:

250.384.9042, editor@eatmagazine.ca ONLINE EatMagazine.ca, TheEatJournal.com MAILING ADDRESS Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4 STOCKISTS EAT is delivered to over 300 pick-up locations in BC. Visit our website for locations. PHONE EMAIL

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SPONSORED

FROM THE OLD WORLD TO THE NEW: OTTAVIO’S 20 YEAR ANNIVERSARY

his September, Ottavio Italian Bakery and Delicatessen is celebrating its 20 year anniversary. Monica Pozzolo and Andrew Moyer opened Ottavio back in September of 1997 and have grown their business into one of the most treasured food locales in Victoria. However, in four years’ time the true anniversary will be celebrated – 2021 will mark 100 years of family lineage in the bakery and deli business.

The story of Ottavio, in fact, begins 1921 in the city of Torino, Italy. Monica’s mother Ubalda recounted the history of Pasticceria Fratelli Piana, a pâtisserie & café started by her father, Ovidio, and his brothers. Fratelli Piana served as a bakery, a café, a bar, a luncheonette, a catering company and a reception hall. “People would come in the morning before work for their coffee, espresso or cappuccino. Then they would come back for a lunch of sandwiches…they would celebrate weddings, communions, and baptisms in the hall”. The pasticceria still stands today and serves as the root of the story of the thriving family business. In 1978, Ubalda and her husband, Michele, moved to Victoria with her sister’s family and together established the Italian Bakery on Quadra St. The family tradition was to be carried on by Monica and Andrew. After gutting the little hair salon that sat on to 2000 block of Oak Bay Avenue, Ottavio Italian Bakery and Delicatessen opened in 1997. Immediately, the store became a Victoria favourite, with its tiny space consistently packed with customers. They started with a humble selection of baked goods, cheeses and coffee but quickly realized that the tiny store had a much larger potential. Today, Ottavio has become a Victoria institution known for its highly curated cheese selection and deli counter, fine Italian, French, Spanish, and local foodstuffs, excellent coffee, gelato and delicious baked goods. Over the past two decades Monica and Andrew have watched a community grow up around them. “Our customers built this business... we are feeding the great grandchildren of some of our first customers, that is satisfying… We work hard with good people and stick to the family model of business.”Just like Pasticceria Fratelli Piana, Ottavio has become a hub for the community where espresso is sipped before work, sandwiches noshed at lunch and celebrations marked with the special food they have lovingly provided. The feeling of the old world is made new again at Ottavio and it seems likely that this family tradition will hold strong. —by Jill Van Gyn

ANDREW MOYER & MONICA POZZOLO IN 1997

We're celebrating 20 years! Thank you to all our customers, staff, friends, and families.

2272 OAK BAY AVENUE (250) 592-4080 OTTAVIOVICTORIA.COM

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FOOD MATTERS

OF PHENOLICS AND FLAVONOIDS OUR TINY CREW OF NORTH AMERICAN WRITERS has little to no knowledge of Italian. The Ercole awards ceremony to honour Italy’s best olive oils is held in Perugia and crowns our visit. (Ercole in Italian refers to the god Hercules, believed be the protector of agriculture.) The lengthy event is conducted completely in Italian. We follow along as best we can. Following a rousing Italian national anthem, one of the dignitaries approaches the stage. Like a priest from the pulpit, he preaches about olive oil’s deep cultural traditions as well as the healthy benefits of phenolics and flavonoids—and does so with such fiery conviction (no translation needed) that I and all present are convinced that eternal damnation is our doom if we do not embrace small-production, high-quality olive oil into our daily lives. Better still, if the oil is organic and DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) oil. I pick up that we giornalistas are invited “to spread the word.”

No problem. I’m already a convert. The three days leading up to the awards ceremony are spent touring Umbria and, metaphorically speaking, immersed in olive oil. On arrival at Fiumicino airport our guide, Daniela, whisks us off to the Chamber of Commerce in Rome for a private olive oil tasting. Considering how the olive and the grape are rooted in similar geography and culture, it was hardly surprising that olive oil and wine share many traits. Like fine wines, olive oils are nuanced with the flavours of fruit, herbs, nuts, flowers and spice, and textures can range from bright and lively to rich and viscous. There’s often, too, a distinct bitter (amaro) finish in a fine olive oil. Although it can take a bit of getting used to, I take to it right away. My favourite oil in the lineup hints at tomato and chestnut, is peppery and bitter and thick as motor oil. Then and there, I crave a bit of seared meat so I can drizzle that oil over it. The next morning we visit Terre Francescane, a family-run olive oil “mill.” An out-of-use millstone graces the stone building. Carlo Gradassi tells us that even small producers no longer press their olive oils with a millstone; the ancient method invites too many “impurities” to the party. These days a machine gently presses the olives at 27-28 degrees Celsius (the term cold-press is not as “chilly” as you might think.) Gradassi DOP oil is fruity, yet floral too. On another day we stroll amidst 300-year-old olive trees as a cool mist gives way to the sun’s

photo by Rebecca Wellman

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Fine olive oil is both healthful and richly flavoured with notes of fruit, herbs, nuts, flowers and spice warmth. Silver-green leaves flutter high above Lake Trasimeno where later we have the good fortune to go out with two local fishermen. One nods when the other says that the olive oil “must speak the language we speak,” indicating that this region’s lighter oil marries best with the local catch. As I look at several floundering perch and one squirming, very unappetizing-looking eel, I hope he means when cooked. In the trattorias of Assisi and Spoleto, Cortona and Perugia, I anoint every comestible, from bread to meat and greens to gelato (a weird but wonderful surprise) with unctuous oil. The morning of the awards presentation we are blind-tasted on a commercial and an artisan olive oil from small blue cups so we are not swayed by hue. But by this time, it’s hardly a challenge. The commercial oil pales when compared to the artisan oil, tasting thin and flat. Try this yourself. Sprinkle a juicy ripe tomato with salt and

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JULIE PEGG

QUALITY, CREATIVITY, & EXECUTION

Fall's arrival delivers amazing fresh ingredients, rich aromas, and full flavours to maximize your dining & beverage experience. ReservaƟons accepted online Open 7 days a week 5 PM unƟl late Down the Hall, 506 Fort St. www.liƩlejumbo.ca

778.433.5535

commercial olive oil, then try with top-notch oil. Notice how deliciously complex the ﬂavours are in the better oil: sweet/acid (sour) and salt meet bitter. Entertaining couldn’t be more pleasant when friends gather and chat over a platter of salumi, a slab of pecorino cheese, some grilled peppers, zucchini, eggplant, thickly sliced red onion and a loaf of crusty, garlicky bread. At the centre of the spread, place a bottle or two of decent Italian wine and really, really good olive oil. As conversation ﬂows, grab more bread and do like the locals. Mop up (fare la scarpetta, meaning “make the little shoe”) with a piece of bread to capture all the meaty, cheesy bits and oily juices on your plate. Amen to that!

A few things to consider when buying quality olive oil DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) guarantees that a product comes from a certain region and adheres to the standards set by that region’s consortium. (DOP pertains not only to olive oil but also to tomatoes, cheese, bread and balsamic vinegar.) There are only about 30 DOP regions for olive oil in Italy. The letters DOP may be on the label, or it may be spelled out in full, along with a DOP seal. There is also a date of harvest and when the olive oil was bottled. It may have a best-before date too. (Unlike wine, olive oil does not improve over time.) The neckband may have a number that looks like a serial number. The name of the producer is usually front and centre. Certified organic oils will display the green leaf symbol. Non-certified organic wines may be labelled “organically produced.” (Certification is costly and not all producers who grow organically choose to go through the process.) Superior-tasting olive oil is not

necessarily DOP or Bio status, but the Azienda (or house) should be noted and price is an indicator of better quality. Rely on a retailer who knows and carries quality oils and stores them properly. By the way, a label saying simply “made in Italy” guarantees nothing. Thanks to Caren McSherry of Gourmet Warehouse for her assistance with this information.

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Get fresh

ISLAND TABLE GRAPES Who knew these plump, crisp, sweet little gems grew right here on Vancouver Island? I HAVE BECOME ACCUSTOMED TO THE FACT that I know more about local produce than the average person. This is a lovely perk of doing what I do every day, and quite a reliable party trick—if you go to the right parties. But occasionally I am blindsided by what I didn’t realize others didn’t know. Like local grapes. I didn’t know you didn’t know! Very few Island growers have taken on the table grape on any scale. So it was quite a treat to visit with friend and farmer Lorne Kirby and his wife Dean of Tod Creek Vineyard and Farm in Central Saanich. Don’t Google it, you won’t find anything. And don’t try to go there, the gate is tall and locked to keep the deer out. He is an elusive master grape grower, a wealth of information, and quite wonderful company for a morning farm stroll. Farmer Lorne, Dr. Kirby to some, is a lifelong hobby farmer who stumbled into fulltime farming as a retirement project “to keep me fit and out of mischief.” He was born on a farm, so farming is certainly in Lorne’s blood, but during his career at UBC as a geneticist, farming took the role of stress management, something I definitely felt as I strolled amongst his crops. On this eight-acre, spray-free, mixed farm, only one acre is planted with table grapes, but that one acre hosts close to 500 vines in the three varieties that have proved to be

best suited to the farm’s conditions. From planting vines to first harvest, the wait for a substantial grape harvest is five years, making Lorne not only an intellectual farmer but an extremely patient one. Mixed crops of peas, squash, berries and even persimmons proved a great distraction during a wait that was certainly worth it. His crops of Interlaken (green), Canadice (red) and Coronation (blue) grapes are now hand-harvested when ripe from vines that will produce for more than 50 years, typically from late August to early October, a couple weeks behind the Okanagan grape harvest. All produce is “picked, packed and delivered” wholesale the same morning; Lorne’s 5 a.m. start means you can buy his grapes the afternoon they were harvested from your favourite produce market. This is a treat not to be missed. All three varieties are seedless, offering tart skin and a burst of varied juicy sweetness. They are remarkable eaten out of hand from their tight compact clusters but enhance both salads and cheese plates and freeze beautifully. Coronations make an amazing French clafouti. Farmer Lorne is one of very few table grape growers in our region, and we are lucky to have him. Farming may provide the added benefit of mischief-control, but you can tell this man now farms because he loves it. Daisy Orser is co-owner of The Root Cellar Village Green Grocer

L E T ’ S PA R T Y ! C L A S S I C C U I S I N E . S P E C TAC U L A R LY G O O D T I M E S .

The Marina Restaurant has everything you need to make your special occasion special. From an intimate party with shared dishes to a stunning five course dinner for up to 40, we can make your celebration unforgettable. Talk to us and get your party started.

250 598 8555 | marinarestaurant.com | 1327 Beach Drive at the Oak Bay Marina 8

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

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DAISY ORSER

SELECTION: Local table grapes do not ripen after harvest, so they are handpicked when at peak sugar content. Look for plump, smooth, uncracked grapes in tight clusters on a stem varying from green to brown. If taste- testing, pick a grape from the tip of the cluster as they are the last to ripen. STORAGE: Like any produce harvested at peak ripeness, aim to consume quickly to enjoy at its finest. Refrigerate grapes in their container loosely covered for up to seven days if necessary. TASTE: CANADICE: A seedless red grape that is a cross of Bath and Himrod varieties. Sweet, and sometimes described as spicy. INTERLAKEN: A seedless green variety with a sweet, tangy flavour sometimes compared to a Concord. ( They make excellent raisins.) CORONATION: A popular blue seedless variety, this grape is versatile and can be substituted for blueberries in many baking recipes. They offer a jelly-green centre and a musky sweet taste. TREND: Lets start one. Island grown grapes deserve to be celebrated! Very few markets carry local table grapes, ask your favourite ‘produce guy ’ to bring them in so we can encourage more to be grown. SUSTAINABILIT Y: After the first couple of years, grape vines require no irrigation. CANADICE GRAPES

PREPARATION: Check out Victoria chef Heidi Fink’s blog for her Coronation Grape Clafouti recipe. chefheidifink .com

Handmade Ethical Local Traditional

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THANKSGIVING

from LOCAL FARMS

EAT TALKS

JILL VAN GYN

SECOND EAT TALKS ANNOUNCED The second in the magazine’s Eat Talks Series brings together food industry leaders for a lively evening of storytelling and truth telling… plus food & drink, of course.

The Northern Quarter served as an intimate venue for the first EAT Talks event on Monday, June 12. The sold-out event, which was limited to 60 tickets, was an evening of storytelling filled with humour, heart, and honesty. Titled “Let’s Not Open a Restaurant”, the premise of this forum was to bring together people from around the food industry who had opted for the road less travelled. The Northern Quarter kitchen served guests delicious appetizers of fresh oysters, creative flatbread pizza, charcuterie and some addictively good fried risotto balls. Sponsors Hoyne Brewing Company, Tod Creek Craft Cider and Unsworth Vineyards provided complementary libations for our guests as they mingled with our speakers beforehand.

“Well…That Didn't Work Out: Failures, Flops and Frustrations" On Monday, September 11, EAT will be hosting the second round of stories with speakers tackling the daunting topic of failure and frustration and how they rose above the fray to succeed. The food industry is fraught with all sorts of mishaps and missteps our speakers will rise to yet another challenge: coming clean about how sometimes things don’t always work out as planned. When your exquisitely plated meal arrives at your table by a server with a refined touch we often take for granted the monumental challenges that go into delivering the final product. Whether it’s designing a restaurant, baking a cake, or simply getting your order out hot and with all of its sum components there is often a rocky road that paved the way to the end result. The food industry and all of its supporting characters are in a messy business. These are stories of people rising to the challenge, meeting failure head on or simply missing a vital beat. In the end, challenging episodes in one's life can produce the most amazing results and some of the most important and inspiring lessons. DESCRIPTION: WELL... THAT DIDN’T WORK OUT: FAILURES, FLOPS AND FRUSTRATIONS SPEAKERS: Andrew Mavor (Co-owner, Chef - Hank's *A Restaurant), Joe Cunliffe (Restauranteur - Be Love, Cafe Bliss), Takumi Kitamara (Chef, The Pacific Restaurant, Hotel Grand Pacific), JC Scott (Restaurant Designer), Shawn Soole (Co-owner Foxtrot, Tango, Whiskey Bar, bartender), Cristen DeCarolis Dallas (Co-owner, Pizzeria Prima Strada), Abdallah El Chami (Co-owner and Chef at Superbaba), Jill Van Gyn (Host, writer, Eat). DATE: Monday, September 11, 2017 TIME: 7:00pm to 9:30pm (Doors open at 6pm) WHERE: Northern Quarter (1724 Douglas St, Victoria) TICKETS: $29.95 (includes appys and a first drink thanks to our sponsors Lighthouse Brewing Co., Tod Creek Craft Cider, Unsworth Vineyards & Salt Spring Vineyards). To purchase tickets: visit https://eat-talks.eventbrite.ca

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

SHERRI MARTIN

2032 OAK BAY AVE

TO YOUR TABLE.

Anna Hunt of Bread and Butter Catering shared a heartwarming anecdote of how her mother’s dedication to buying her cucumbers as a child, translated into her understanding of how food shows the people around us that we love them.

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GOOD FOR YOU

PAM DURKIN

REDUCETARIANS UNITE! You have nothing to lose but your guilt. A NEW DIETARY APPROACH THAT DOESN’T INVOLVE COUNTING CALORIES—or macro-nutrients like carbohydrates—is garnering a lot of media buzz. What’s more, this trending diet du jour shuns deprivation and doesn’t call for the elimination of any specific food. In addition, it enhances both human health and the health of the planet. If you think said diet sounds too good to be true—you’re wrong. Allow me to introduce you to reducetarianism, a salubrious dietary practice that is rooted in common sense and evidence-based science and is being universally touted by health experts around the globe. So what exactly does a reducetarian eat? It’s not complicated—reducetarians simply reduce the amount of animal products they eat, in the process improving their health, protecting the environment and promoting animal welfare. The term “reducetarian” was coined by American environmentalist Brian Kateman, who realized reducing meat consumption was an effective way to help combat climate change, but who found making the shift to veganism proved “problematic,” not only for himself but for many others. Solid evidence backs him up. A recent poll shows that only five percent of North Americans identify as vegan or vegetarian, and a revealing study indicated that among those who do follow a plant-based diet, relapses into occasional meat eating are common—particularly after a night of drinking! Kateman felt a new approach was needed, one that was inclusive and didn’t insinuate that an allor-nothing commitment was the only way to mitigate the negative effects meat consumption has on the environment and human health. Furthermore, he argued that static and self-defeating labels such as “lazy vegan” and “cheating vegetarian” should be shunned and we should celebrate the growing number of people actively committed to reducing their reliance on animal products. Statistics show their ranks certainly are growing, and many Victorians are among them. “A lot of our customers are embracing reducetarianism,” says Peter Onyschuk, manager of Lifestyle Market’s Cook Street Village location. “They cite health concerns like heart disease and cancer, and the health of the planet, as well as overall cost, as chief reasons for adopting this approach.” Clearly, even taking small steps to rein in carnivorous habits can have an impact on both the environment and chronic disease prevention. The meat industry is responsible for somewhere between 18-50 percent of all global greenhouse gasses emitted, and up to one third of fresh water used globally. By reducing overall demand for animal products, these numbers can diminish greatly. Similar impacts can be made in disease prevention. An overwhelming body of evidence suggests high meat consumption is correlated with a higher risk of heart disease, stroke, type-2 diabetes, obesity and certain cancers. “With less meat and more plant-based protein, fruit and vegetable consumption, people live longer and healthier lives, as is witnessed by those who live in places like the Mediterranean, where meat is viewed as an occasional treat,” emphasizes Victoria dietitian Jennifer Letham Sobkin. (www.leapnow.ca) If reading all this has you straining at the bit to join “team reducetarian,” there are many simple ways to get started. Why not modify your favourite recipes by using half the meat and doubling the vegetables? It’s an easy switch to make with dishes like lasagna, stews and casseroles. Or how about swapping that beef or turkey burger for a veggie burger? You can also challenge yourself by committing to participate in “Meatless Mondays” or do as some reducetarians do—eat meat only on the weekends. Obviously there are limitless options, and adopting any of them into your culinary regime will be good for you—and for Mother Earth.

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REPORTER

Pie Obsessions Text: Adrien Sala Photos: Rebecca Wellman

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

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FIVE RESTAURANTS THAT SERVE NATURE’S NEARLY PERFECT FOOD, ALONG WITH A SOPHISTICATED RANGE OF OTHER OPTIONS.

5th StreetBar & Grill’s signature pizza - Cinque Formaggi (toasted walnuts, smoked grapes, red wine poached pear, 5 cheese, roasted garlic cream). A B O V E : 5th Street server Tajana Koschack. L E F T:

IF YOU’RE THINKING ABOUT WRITING AN ARTICLE ON PIZZA, here’s a pro tip: don’t ask your friends. It turns out pizza is a very divisive and personal thing—and people are more than happy to share their opinions about it: the best kind of crust, toppings that should never be allowed, how it should fold over when you eat it, why everyone else is wrong, what is right, and who and where is the best. It’s never a “meh” kind of thing. So unless you’re talking to a person who has designated all carbs as the devil, people will passionately protest for their own favourites at length. Considering pizza is the staple food for a lot people at diﬀerent junctures in their lives, it kind of makes sense. “I lived oﬀ pizza from 2001 to 2005—like pretty much exclusively,” one passionate pizza person told me. It was dark days in his bank account and the two-dollar slices of ‘za in the grungier part of town allowed him to stay out of his parents’ basement (he was in his early twenties at the time). It might not be the healthiest thing to eat every single day, but for anyone who is into melted cheese, marinara sauce, basil, cured meats, fruits—this particular writer is partial to pineapple and ham, the notorious Hawaiian slice, which was actually invented by a Canadian) or any number of other oddities, it holds a place in the “what would you eat for your last meal” canon. C O N T I N U E D O N F O L L O W I N G PA G E

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But what happens when your metabolism slows and you can’t just fire back plates of cheap pizza and beer on the regular? For some, it means switching to wine and cocktails, which are notoriously hard to come by at the cheap pizza shop. You start going to restaurants that aren’t just pizza restaurants. Italian joints with fish and appetizers. Patios where the salads are equally alluring. Pubs with great chicken fingers. In a word, you go to places with options. Now to be fair, there are some pretty outstanding pizza restaurants on the island that have wine and cocktails and amazing pizza. Prima Strada comes to mind. So does Standard Pizza, which is great for take-out and a bottle of wine at home. But that’s not what we’re talking about here. As mentioned off the top, it’s nearly impossible to single out who has the best, where to get it and what’s so great about it without starting a food fight in the middle of a coffee shop. So, for our purposes, we’re looking at restaurants and pubs that are not singularly focused on pizza. Places where your carb-sensitive date might be able to have a tasty salad or a steak. Places where you can have a great cocktail, a bottle of wine and a nice pizza.

Fiamo A great late-night spot (4 p.m. to 2 a.m.), Fiamo personifies the grown-up pizza option to the letter. On any given night you can see crowds of people knocking back cocktails and wine, then devouring the thin-crust pizzas that are being pumped out from the pizza oven just off the bar. With a broad menu, including tuna tataki, Caprese salad and grilled steak, the options here are as diverse as the pizza selection, which includes toppings like shaved prosciutto, Sicilian sausage, figs, poached Prosecco pear and more. You can even get gluten-free crust for a couple extra bucks. Pizzas range from $12.50 to $15.50, and it’s open long past many other spots.

Canoe Flatbreads are pizza—let’s just go with that. Originally the intent was to avoid any chatter about ﬂatbreads, but looking at the menu at Canoe, the depth of menu options and the environment in which it can be enjoyed, it’s hard not to include it. There may only be a single margherita on the menu, but it stands up, with mozzarella, grape tomato, arugula and bocconcini. Canoe is one of the most stunning buildings in the city, so bringing your friends here is generally always a hit. At $15, the ﬂatbread is a great item to share while sitting in the sun or listening to some music indoors.

The Tapa Bar 919 DOUGL A S ST • VICTORIA’S ENTERTAINMENT CENTRE

NEW FALL MENU NEW W FA FALL L TIME T IME TO TO WIND WIND DO DOWN WN WITH WITH OUR OUR

No big surprise here, but pizza is not Spanish, so recommending it at a tapas bar can raise an eyebrow or two. But for anyone who has sidled up to the bar and had a refreshing jug of sangria, a cocktail or a glass of wine at “Tapa” has probably realized that convention is the death of food creativity. The pizzas at The Tapa Bar are a staple on a menu that also provides great mussels, grilled coconut kale and a whole host of other small plates that align perfectly with a slice. Ranging from a classic thin-crust margherita pizza to a pesto pizza with cilantro pesto, apples, pecans, smoked mozzarella and a lime on the side, the selection here is as interesting as it is delicious. Prices range from $14 to $17.

5th Street Bar & Grill Not to be overlooked is 5th Street Bar & Grill with a wood-ﬁred oven and two distinct sides—one for those 19-plus and the other family friendly. Parents can enjoy great pizza with their kids or disappear to the other side to reclaim some adulthood and watch sports or play trivia. Twelve diﬀerent pizza choices and selections ranging from vegetarian cinque formaggi to pulled pork (the drink options here are also great). The menu is wide-ranging, inexpensive and uses Ocean Wise seafood and chicken from Rossdown Farm. A great option for anyone looking for a pub feel with great pizza. Prices range from $12 to $17.

The Beach House Dining at the Beach House feels like being in another city, one on a coast somewhere south of here, maybe California. Barely 15 minutes from downtown on Cordova Bay Road, the view from the dining room or patio looks across the San Juan Islands at the Cascade Mountains. On a clear day, it is the perfect vantage point for Mt. Baker. With a menu that ranges from shrimp cocktail to barbecue ribs, there is something for almost anyone. The pizza oven pumps out pizzas on thin crusts, baked using extra-fine double-zero flour. Options range from fig and prosciutto to meat or veggie lover. It’s the perfect option for a little getaway in your hometown. Prices range from $13 to $16. WORTH A MENTION Zambri’s puts out some pretty fine pizzas including a sophisticated version of the Hawaiian. You’ll also find plenty of pasta, main course dishes and a excellent list of Italian wines.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

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Notch Coffee iss back and ready for summer.

With notes of Chocolate, Caramel and Toffee, this single origin cold brew coff has an amazingly rich bodyy and citrus lik ose that enjoy a sweetness - perfect for those smooth drinking, refreshing cold brew experience. To order, simply email us at: hello@notchcoffee.com Follow us on instagram + twitter @notchcoffee for more exciting news. We hope you enjoy this Colombian Col Brew Coffee ;) www.notchcoffee.com

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Cook & Pan Polish Deli THE NEW INTERIOR AT COOK & PAN ON AMELIA STREET

1527 AMELIA ST., VICTORIA 250-385-5509 | COOKNPAN.COM

THE POLISH COMBO WITH RED BORSCHT

REBECCA WELLMAN

IF, LIKE ME, YOU ENJOY A RING OF SMOKY POLISH SAUSAGE or a plate of tender cabbage rolls, there’s cause to rejoice. After a year-long hiatus, the popular Cook & Pan Polish Deli has re-opened its doors. The new location is an historic house on a quiet downtown street, an address locals might remember as the former Adriana’s Cocina Mexicana on Amelia Street. But the room has been transformed with a contemporary black and white décor, wide plank ﬂoors, a sky-lit deli counter and cappuccino bar. There’s a communal table and seating for 10 inside, with more on the shaded front porch.

Meet a BC Egg Farmer

It’s the third incarnation for Cook & Pan—the deli’s name stemming from its original location at the corner of Cook Street and Pandora Avenue—but longtime fans will still ﬁnd their home-style European cooking and great selection of naturally smoked sausages, Polish cheeses and imported European grocery items, sweets and condiments in their airy new digs. Luke Domanski runs the family-owned deli with his mother Bozena and tells me about his plans to create “a real community space here,” over lattes and ﬂaky faworki (a.k.a. angel’s wings), ribbons of fried pastry dusted in icing sugar. “I want to become more of a cultural hub, with evening events like cooking classes or language lessons or even movies,” he says, “whether it’s Polish or Italian or any other local people. I want it to be an inclusive place in the neighbourhood.”

Scott Janzen is a third-generation egg farmer from Abbotsford, BC. As a young man, he moved away from the farming life but he came back to it once he had a family and knew that a farm was a great place to raise his kids. Today, he produces two types of eggs for the people of BC. Learn more by visiting BC Egg’s website at bcegg.com

Cook & Pan Deli is my go-to spot for chunky ham sausage, smoked juniper sausage (mysliwska) and kabanos sticks as well as lean, double-smoked bacon, all made by Vancouver’s Polonia Sausage House. The freezer is filled with tender pierogi (whether you like yours stuffed with potato and cheddar or mushrooms and sauerkraut), fluffy potato dumplings (kopytka), beet borscht or cabbage soup, and main meals ranging from Hunter’s Stew (bigos) to meaty cabbage rolls (golabki), leczo vegetable stew with peppers, breaded pork cutlets, meatballs and traditional mushroom or beef goulash. Various sauces allow for personalized mix-and-match meals. Malgorzata Opasinski is the talented cook turning out all of these Polish specialties in the new deli kitchen, with hot lunch combos to eat-in or take out. There are also sandwiches created with deli meats and cheeses—think the Hot Baba with Polish ham, sauerkraut, cheese and spicy Polish mustard or Polish kielbasa with tomato, lettuce and horseradish sauce. With lots of condo-dwellers and office workers nearby, Domanski says they offer catering platters and are working on an app so customers can order online for speedy pick-up during busy times. He’s also planning rotating sweet specialties like traditional paczki jelly doughnuts, apple cake and poppy seed rolls. As a prairie transplant with Slavic roots, I was devastated when Cook & Pan closed last year and am thrilled to discover it has a new home. Go for the best bacon and sausages—stay for the tasty home cooking! CINDA CHAVICH

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

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EATING WELL FOR LESS TOP-NOTCH BURGERS

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$900

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There’s an absolute tumult of things I want to tell you about Chuck’s Burger Bar: Fresh cheese curds from Quebec in an outrageous poutine! A burger made of ground bacon! Candied bacon for dessert! OK, enough exclamation marks and down to business. This is a top-notch burger joint, tucked away in a strip mall in the industrial part of Sidney near the airport. Even the decor, while casual, punches above its weight. The bar is rustic gorgeous, made from repurposed horse paddock doors with a base of repurposed galvanized steel sheets weathered to a natural patina. Even if the space wasn’t interesting to look at, I would eat here. Chuck’s Chop House Poutine for $16 can feed two people. When it arrived, I actually laughed out loud at the sheer audacity of the dish. The 12by-8-inch platter held a bed of tasty fries topped with a wild mushroom mix of portabella, oyster and cremini, along with caramelized onions and creamy Quebecois cheese curds from Laiterie Chalifoux.

H AWA I I A N P L E A S U R E

ABOVE: Burger with bacon patty loaded up with smoked lime and tequila barbecue sauce, aged gouda, grilled pineapple and a roasted garlic and hot pepper jelly. ELIZABETH NYLAND

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

Important to mention too is the giant seared rare flatiron steak, cut thick and fanned across all the other savoury treats. If you want to go all in, I can recommend the panko-breaded onion rings for $7 on the side. But it’s possible you came to a place called a burger bar for a burger, you literalist, you. You can get a meat burger starting at $9 for a single or $13 for a double. I would like to immediately direct your attention to the burger made of ground bacon, which is so inspired, I am mad I never thought of it before. The menu offers lots of basic burgers, but with some non-basic meats too, like venison and bison, and you can pay extra for cheeses and premium toppings. Or, if that’s too much strain on your decision-making muscle, go to the Chuck's Favourites' section on the menu where chef Chris Preston has put together his favourite flavour combinations. For instance, he pops the bacon patty into a Hawaiian burger loaded up with smoked lime and tequila barbecue sauce, aged gouda, grilled pineapple and a roasted garlic and hot pepper jelly made, made, wait for it, by a local jelly-making grandmother. There is one item on the dessert menu: candied bacon. Order it.

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ELIZABETH MONK

Salt and Pepper Fox

ON THE GO

569 JOHNSON ST., 250-885-2451 SALTANDPEPPERFOX.COM

Korean Roast Beef Sandwich

Going to Salt and Pepper Fox is like meeting a Parisian woman in a neat, structured cardigan, skirt and ballet flats. On the surface, all is very simple, but the pieces are beautifully put together, creating an overall impression of tastefulness. Salt and Pepper Fox is in the tiny space that local fashion followers will know as the one once occupied by Smoking Lily. There are three categories on the menu: sandwiches, salads and cookies. The Korean Roast Beef Sandwich is exceptional because, like the Frenchwoman’s outfit, every piece is impeccable. The eight-inch ciabatta has a firm toothiness to the crust and a lovely stretch to the bread. The rare roast beef is from Slater’s, and Korean accents add interest. A smattering of housemade kimchi injects sparkle, the greenery is cilantro and kochujang mayonnaise is the final intriguing note. Kochujang is a red pepper sauce with garlic, soy and sesame, all flavours that make the beef even more enjoyable. Even though this is my favourite sandwich here, it is the Roast Chicken and Havarti that sells out the fastest, probably because of the tasty sage aioli and pickled red onions that kick it up a notch. These sandwiches are $9 and $8 respectively. Salads are available on the side for $3 but also come as a meal in

$900

+ TAX

a range from $10 to $15. The Tuna Soba Noodle Salad is infused with Asian accents, especially sesame. The natural nuttiness of soba noodles graced with sesame oil is the groundwork. This is topped with a generous swath of vegetables in a soy-sesame sauce: pickled shiitake, shaved carrots, sliced radishes and organic kale. Slices of seared tuna with chef Liam Quinn’s invention of togarashi crumb (bread crumbs seasoned with a house blend of Japanese mixed spices) are the crowning glory. This is the highest priced salad, but I did have leftover noodles for the next day. Finally, cookies are $1.50, and the double chocolate one was suitably gooey and decadent. In summary, for as little as $12.50, you can get an elegant sandwich, a side salad and a cookie, whether for takeout for an office meeting or for elegant little you to enjoy at one of two stools at the shop. l e f t : O w n e r L i a m Q u i n n O F S & P Fo x ELIZABETH NYLAND

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EAT Magazine SEPT/OCT 2017_Victoria_56_Layout 1 9/8/17 2:00 PM Page 20

Mesa Familia 1296 GLADSTONE AVE., 778-265-4725, FACEBOOK.COM/MESAFAMILIA

1715 Government Street 250.475.6260 www.lecole.ca eat@lecole.ca

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pm Tuesday to Saturday

ABOVE:

The enchilada plate ELIZABETH NYLAND

The first impression of Mesa Familia, in Fernwood Square, is of warmth and friendliness. The giant blackboard wall has the day’s menu on it to whet the appetite, a bookshelf has cookbooks you can take to your table to peruse, there are Mexican groceries to buy and a toy box for small children. Chips and guacamole is a classic starter and feels like a fit for sitting on the patio with a margarita and watching the diverse dwellers of Fernwood walk by in the square. This is a guacamole with gusto, thanks to lots of finely diced raw onions, and a very affordable starter ($3.50 for chips, $4 for the guac). Tacos are also fairly priced at four for $10 (one type per order). The menu changes both daily and seasonally, but some kind of taco is sure to be on the menu. The Chicken Taco was mild in heat but not mild on the flavour scale. The chicken was shredded and simmered in a tomato and green chili sauce and served with toppings of raw cabbage

20 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

and cilantro. The vegetarian Corn and Zucchini Taco was equally ﬂavourful, served with rahas con crema, which is made of green chilis and onions cooked down in cream. The tacos were lightly toasted, giving them a texture closer to a quesadilla. The enchilada plates are a robust meal. My vegetarian one was $13 for two plump spinach and potato enchiladas in a delicate sauce of fresh tomatillo pureed with onions and garlic and served with rice and refried beans. Owner-chef Neil Davis adds his own Mexicomeets-Denmark twist with sides of pickles done Danish-style, but with Mexican oregano. Despite Davis’s Danish heritage, it is clear he is accomplished in authentic Mexican cooking, thanks to his many trips there and a childhood immersed in the Mexican restaurant owned by his parents in Terrace. The family tradition continues in Victoria.

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Rebecca Wellman’s

MOROCCAN-INSPIRED CHICKEN THIS ONE POT DISH COMBINES BRAISED CHICKEN WITH HARISSA, OLIVES AND FRAGRANT NORTH AFRICAN SPICES FOR AN IMPRESSIVE MAIN COURSE THAT’S WARMTH IN A BOWL

INGREDIENTS Serves 4.

2 Tbsp harissa 4 Tbsp olive oil ¼ tsp ground cloves 4 tsp ground cinnamon 4 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp turmeric ½ tsp ginger 2 tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper 4 chicken thighs, bone in, skin on 4 drumsticks, bone in, skin on 2 Tbsp vegetable oil 1 Tbsp salted butter 1 large onion, julienned 3 garlic cloves, minced 2 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade ¼ cup preserved lemons, cut into long thin slices ⅓ cup dried pitted prunes ⅓ cup dried pitted apricots, sliced in half ⅓ cup green pitted olives, sliced in half ½ cup marcona almonds, fried and salted ¼ cup ﬂat leaf parsley, chopped

REEBECCA WELLMAN

In a large bowl, combine harissa, olive oil, cloves, cinnamon, cumin, turmeric, ginger, salt and pepper. Divide mixture in half, and set half aside. Add chicken pieces to the remaining mixture and, using your hands, coat each piece well, getting into all the nooks and crannies. Marinate, covered, in the fridge for at least 30 minutes, or up to 4 hours. Preheat oven to 400°F.

The door is slowly closing on summer as we return to work, school and the daily routines once again. I’m always sad to say goodbye to long, warm nights and patios, the abundance that comes with the weekly farmer’s market haul and all the other lovely things that summer brings. Autumn, however, can be just as nice, with the scent of warm spices, things braised and roasted and a particular coolness in the air unique to the west coast in September that warrants the donning of scarves and toques. This dish is warmth in a bowl. The mellow ﬂavours of the dried fruit blend well with a bit of spice from the harissa and the tanginess of the olives. If you prefer to use bone-in chicken breasts, rather than thighs and drumsticks, add about ¼ cup more chicken stock and reduce the oven cooking time to 20 minutes for the ﬁrst round and 15 minutes for the second. 22

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

Heat oil and butter in a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add chicken pieces so they are not overlapping (cook in batches if necessary) and cook for 8-10 minutes, ﬂipping once, until browned. Transfer chicken to a plate and set aside. Add onions to the pot and cook for 5-7 minutes, until softened. Add garlic and cook for another 30 seconds. Add the second half of the harissa mixture and cook for about 1 minute, resisting the urge to stir it, so the spices have a chance to cook in the oil. Add chicken stock, stir well and return the chicken to the pot along with the juices that have accumulated on the plate. Turn heat up to high, bring to a boil for a moment, then cover with a lid and bake in oven for half an hour. Remove lid and toss in lemons, prunes, apricots and olives. Bake for another 20-30 minutes or until sauce is thick and chicken is cooked through. Garnish with almonds and parsley and serve with couscous, rice or roasted potatoes.

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Who wants a cocktail? Better yet who wants to try lots of cocktails? Your wishes come true on October 14th as the island’s largest cocktail festival comes together in a splashy aﬀair.

THE NINTH ANNUAL ART OF THE COCKTAIL CREATED BY THE VICTORIA FILM FESTIVAL draws together global and national liquor brands, as well as local craft distilleries and restaurants for the Grand Tasting. Each brand comes to showcase their best cocktails and spirits while restaurants bring delicious appetizers. “Art of the Cocktail is a unique festival,” says Festival director Kathy Kay, “Spirits are transformed into a range of creative cocktails, and our patrons don’t need to purchase tokens to be able to enjoy samples, buying a ticket is all they need.” Whether you want to enjoy three samples or twelve, it’s all included in the ticket price. If you want exclusive access before everyone else, you can opt for the VIP Grand Tasting ticket, which includes an hour of access to the bartenders, distillers and chefs before General Public ticket holders descend on Crystal Gardens. The Grand Tasting is focused on cocktails, but it’s also about getting dressed up and having a good time with your friends…and guess what? There’s a Best Dressed Competition! Get your photo taken in the Victoria Film Festival Photo Booth for your chance to take the title AND win four tickets to the best party of the year, the Victoria Film Festival Opening Gala! Want to have your say on which cocktail is the Best of the Fest? When you arrive you receive a voting token which you can deposit at the table making your favourite drink, the winner is whoever collects the most tokens! Last year the winners of Best Cocktail was Jeﬀ Meyers and the charming gentlemen of Flor de Caña Rum, but will they be able to hold onto their title? You decide! And, if the Grand Tasting isn’t enough for you, there’s more! Cocktails Up Close are new exclusive hands-on (or should I say drinks-on) masterclasses for those who enjoy a private tasting and are curious how to make their own cocktails. Art of the Cocktail is bringing in cocktail pros to teach you how to impress your friends and yourself! If you are interested in purchasing tickets, and you know you are, visit artofthecocktail.ca. This event sells out every year!

PHOTO BY J. PALMER.

AN ART OF THE COCKTAIL FAVOURITE BEE’S KNEES & THYME RECIPE

INGREDIENTS 2 oz Ampersand Gin 3 spoons runny honey 3/4 oz fresh lemon juice 2 sprigs of thyme METHOD Pour gin & honey into shaker and stir until honey dissolves. Muddle in one sprig of thyme. Add lemon juice and shake with ice. TO SERVE Fine strain into a coupe and garnish with second sprig of thyme.

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AVOCADO LOVE While we crave and adore the avocado there are environmental consequences, says Adrian Paradis ot to brag or anything, but I probably know brunch better than you do. The culinary gods at the Food Network have deemed our city the brunch capital of this great land of Canada and when I’m not writing about food, I spend my days making breakfast sandwiches as the chef at a small café. Suffice it to say, I’m well acquainted with this midday portmanteau. So it is with confidence I report that today’s brunch menu is faced with a green divide: the avocado. This green fruit is increasing found well beyond its humble beginnings on toast: in baked goods, lattés, desserts and every breakfast item imaginable. The fixation on guacamole is now so pervasive that recently the world’s first “avocado bar,” Avocaderia, opened up in Brooklyn with an entire menu featuring avocados.

Yet this obsession comes with consequences. These green “testicle fruit” (the word avocado comes from the Nahuatl word for “testicle”) have a steep environmental impact, and their popularity has caused both a high demand and an inﬂated price tag. Avocado toast has become synonymous with the hipster culture many love to hate, yet many more remain loyal to this green, polarizing ingredient.

avocado. That way, they still get that creamy rich something that’s so hard to replace. Our main goal is to make people happy.” Sean Bodie, chef at Jam Café, still loves working with avocados as a product. “I’m a big fan,” he says. “It’s such a fresh product. As soon as you taste it, you know nothing else has to be done to it. Avocado on toast is a perfect example of that. There’s nothing crazy about it. It’s just toast and avocado.” According to Bodie, Jam will go through roughly 150 avocados a week, including a deep-fried avocado taco that is a favourite of his. While Bodie remains a fan of avocado, he suggests restricting the fruit to a seasonal item to quell the massive demand. “I think it would be better if we kept avocados to a seasonal thing, similar to strawberries,” he says. “People are expecting strawberries to be ripe and accessible all year round, but that’s not really a feasible option ecologically. Keeping avocados seasonal would generate some excitement around them as people would have to wait for avocado season to come around.”

Josh Miller, owner of Mo:lé restaurant, says he’s happily been serving them for the past 13 years. “We’ve got them on a lot of our menu items,” he says. “We go through about 100 avocados a week, so that’s about 400 portions. People love avocados. I’ve never seen anyone not love an avocado.”

Rosamund Harcourt, owner of The Blue Fox Cafe, says she’s aware of the issues around avocados but is doubtful the trend will slow down. “Avocados are used in all kinds of diﬀerent ways. They are downright delicious, and they are very good for you,” she says. “Delicious and nutritious is a hard combination to beat.” Going through roughly 300 avocados a week, she says the popularity of the fruit is simply a current hype.

Miller says he sources locally whenever possible, but this is obviously not an option for some products. “It would be hard to take it oﬀ the menu at this point,” he says. “It’s a favourite of our clientele. We get many vegans or vegetarians who don’t want bacon so they would rather have

“The permutations here are endless,” she says. “Everything in food happens in trends. Look at what happened with the food industry here in Victoria, for instance, and how many taco places opened up. Look at kale. It was a non-existent vegetable before a few years ago. This could be

w www.ToqueCatering.com ww.TToqueCatering.com 778-432-2460 or email us at at chef@toquecatering.com chef@toquecatering.com

Molly Jane Photography

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

PHOTOS BY SHERRI MARTIN

It’s All About the Food

EAT Magazine SEPT/OCT 2017_Victoria_56_Layout 1 9/8/17 2:00 PM Page 25

S E A N B O D I E , C H E F AT J A M C A F É

“I THINK IT WOULD BE BETTER IF WE KEPT AVOCADOS TO A SEASONAL THING, SIMILAR TO STRAWBERRIES.” Every acre of avocado trees requires approximately a million gallons of water per year. While this is nearly the same as an orange or lemon tree, the issue arises when Chile goes from 9,000 acres of avocados in 1993, to 71,000 in 2014. Before April 1 of this year, Canadians had spent almost $254 million on avocados, and Canadian avocado imports have increase by more than 250 per cent since 2006. Not only this, but influences from the Caballeros Templarios drug cartel on Mexican avocado farms is also not unheard of. By violently imposing taxes on avocado farmers, it’s estimated that cartel profits $150 million annually off the avocado trade.

PHOTOS BY SHERRI MARTIN

But while the public continues to demand more of their share of avocados, the fruits themselves are not about to give up quietly without a ﬁght. “Avocado hand” is a scourge that has some signing petitions to put warning labels on avocados. The incident in question occurs when one goes to whack the pit out of a halved avocado using a knife, misses and instead takes a chunk out of their own palm. Similar to “bagel hand” from a few years ago, emergency room incidents of this kind spike over the weekend when at-home cooks are preparing their favourite green toast.

AV O C A D O T O A S T AT J A M C A F É

just another one of those things. People are constantly trying to ﬁnd that next thing.” Despite their current popularity, she says that avocados may not fade away completely any time soon due to their versatility. While it’s easy to see why these fruit are so desirable, the guac comes with a darker truth that is diﬃcult to ignore. The Telegraph, as well as many other sources, reported last year that the rising demand—and thus price—of avocados has sparked a trend towards illegal deforestation in Mexico. Not only this, but avocados have been ranked nearly on par with almonds as a particularly thirsty crop to grow and thus the varieties grown in California further burden the already drought-stricken land.

Asking the three professionals about this, all said emphatically that they have never had any serious injuries, but all welcomed the public to leave it to them if there were any concerns. “I’ve had a few close calls,” said Bodie. “With the amount of avocados we go through, I’m doing that a hundred times a day. My personal advice for the situation is to use a paring knife. Don’t use a big chef’s knife. I’ve gotten a few nicks here and there, but no serious injuries. We’re all pros here.”

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Salt Spring...fall Photo by Wendy A Rosier, Salt Spring Island

Fall Fair, Apple Festival, Harvest Food ‘n Drink, Grape Stomping, Farmer’s Markets, Food Trucks, live music, craft spirits and ales, and farm stands galore. Unique shopping experiences. Enjoy breathtaking views on your fall hikes along pristine trails from Mount Maxwell to Ruckle Park. Take in everything. Escape the city. Sample life at a slower, gentler pace. Breathe. (photo credit “Alchemy Farm”)

Once you’ve been “on island” you’ll never want to be “off island” again

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

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SPONSORED

photo by A.J. King

Executive Chef and Owner - Adrian Ortiz-Mena

900° Wood-fired Pizzeria - A Slice of Heaven here’s no denying that Victoria’s restaurant scene has evolved in the last decade. The culinary landscape seems to be everchanging, with new concepts popping up regularly, while others close their doors after trying their luck in the highly charged and ever-competitive restaurant business.

“I think the most innovative thing we have done is bringing really good gluten-free pizza to our customers. My son was diagnosed celiac when he was 5 years old… and he loved pizza. It broke my heart thinking he could no longer have pizza, so I developed a gluten-free pizza dough just for him. It was a real challenge, a labour of love.” If I didn't tell you it's gluten-free, you would never know." Their gluten-free pizza has now become one of 900° best sellers, as pizza lovers and celiacs alike flock to 900° for a slice of heaven.

It seemed that no too long-ago, envisioning a successful restaurant outside of the hustle and bustle of downtown Victoria and its adjacent villages was impossible. There seemed to be a “culinary vacuum” the further away you were from the downtown core.

“I think winning the CTV News Best Thin Crust Pizza competition last year put us on the map. However, it’s the customers that come back time and time again, leaving with a big smile on their face, that have made the difference. My thanks goes out to them”.

Enter 900° Wood-fired Pizzeria in Langford, which has now become one of the hottest destinations around for foodies. “There was no real food in Langford” says Executive Chef and owner Adrian Ortiz-Mena. Until now. 900° has gone from being completely unknown hidden away in a corner of Millstream Village to a true destination for foodies.

900° has gone from being virtually unknown to now achieving wide recognition as arguably the best wood-fired pizza on the Island, or anywhere, for that matter.

“I don’t think we really did anything new – we just did it better. Wood-fired pizza is not new to Victoria, but I think our focus on quality and using organic ingredients makes the difference.” The pizza dough and tomatoes they use for their sauce, as well as vegetables, are organic. “The devil is in the details. Albeit there are a million little details that make something great!” says Adrian enthusiastically. And he can be seen every night watching over his operation like a hawk, making sure every detail is “just right.”

Menu options also include Tuscan-style fire-roasted vegetables, Italian salumi, and even wood-fired steak and pasta, on select nights. And so Victoria’s culinary footprint grows. For a great meal – and a smile, visit 900° Wood-fired Pizzeria in Langford. Yes, Langford.

Pizzas baking in the 900° wood-fired oven

2401 Millstream Rd. Unit 101B (250) 590-4493 900-degrees.ca

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The Politics of Food Part 1: Food Insecurity I tend to side with the former. It is a broad definition that remains open to context. To put this in simpler terms—I may have money to buy food, but if I live in an area where fresh food is hard to obtain or my knowledge of nutrition is limited, I may opt for high-sugar drinks and cheap pre-packaged foods. Further, the broad definition gives us context for geographic issues, as well. If we look to Canada’s northern regions where food is expensive and of poor quality, the fact that I have an income that might be above Canada’s average minimum wage may not necessarily grant me access to healthy, nutritious, or even safe food. A 2016 Vice magazine article reported that even though fresh food is available in the North it is often still out of reach, with fresh grapes running about $26-$28 per bunch and a bag of Gala apples priced at approximately $12. The issue then is both economic and political and carries with it a more complex set of variables such as financial constraints, access to safe and nutritious food and standard of living. Recently I interviewed northern food activist and lawyer Stephen Cooper about the cultural context of food. He noted one further complexity—the types of fresh and nutritious foods available in northern regions. Many of the fresh foods that northern Aboriginal populations are presented with are unfamiliar to them (Cooper mentioned seeing large surpluses of carambola, a fruit indigenous to Southeast Asia), leading many to opt for less nutritious but more familiar and affordable packaged foods.

In the next three issues, food writer Jill Van Gyn investigates the complex web of beliefs, values and opinions surrounding our food and its sources. In this, the ﬁrst part, she delves into the many deﬁnitions of food insecurity. Illustration by Brittany Molineux

FOOD IS POLITICAL. LET’S JUST GET THAT OUT OF THE WAY RIGHT OFF THE BAT.

You might be wondering how this applies to Victoria. We are certainly fortunate to be living in an area that boasts some of the best produce and seafood in the world. We have a high standard of living and have regular access to safe and nutritious food. If you are reading this magazine, then you are likely well informed on your food choices. You know that when you put kale in your basket you are eating a nutritious food, and when you toss a bag of cookies in you understand that this is a treat to be eaten in moderation. For many Canadians, indeed for many in Victoria, this may not always be the case. If we look at broader deﬁnitions of food security, then we must look at the types of foods people are eating and why they make these choices.

The Canada Food Guide has been widely criticized as one of the key factors in obesity rates with its outdated and confusing information, a vague approach to processed foods and the influence of organized food industry groups. A hefty dose of grains and dairy are still recommended, and processed foods receive little or no comment in the guide, falling under the category of “other foods.” Yet, according to a recent article in the National Post, processed foods comprise more than one quarter of the calories Canadians are eating. So, here we have added yet another More than 1 in 10 Canadians do not have this luxury. They are considered to be food insecure. For these people, food is potential layer to the definition: A lack of concrete information or the difficult to access, and even when food is accessed it is often low quality and lacking in nutritious essentials. When considering Aboriginal populations, that number can rise to close to 30 percent, with Aboriginal women almost twice as inability to make informed and educated choices on our nutrition may likely to be food insecure. In Canada’s North, particularly in Nunavut, that number is closer to 46 percent, with almost 60 also render us food insecure. percent of children living in food-insecure households. As lovers of food, as those who hold our food in high regard and as Understanding food security as a component of the politics of food is those who commit themselves to understanding our food landscape, we must be willing to dive a bit deeper in investigat- important. Most of us know that our food is more than just daily ing what food means to all people. sustenance, more than just a thing to be styled, flavoured, praised or It is a commodity we take for granted, one whose availability is subject to any number of variables, including, but not limited to, climate, geography, government regulation, market forces, war, peace and treaty. For many of us, our experience with food is limited to the surface of thought. Those who have access to food have the luxury of thinking about food in the abstract. We limit ourselves to what is going on the table for dinner, should we try that new food truck, are spaghetti doughnuts dumb or not, etc. Access grants us the power to enjoy, indulge and play with our food—to be expressive, conservative or regimented. We have this freedom.

dismissed. But it’s nice and easy and pleasant and worry-free to think of our food as something we simply need and thankfully have more than There are a number of different definitions, the most common of which comes from the World Food Program, which enough access to. Of course, we regularly marvel at and express our defines food security as having “availability and adequate access at all times to sufficient, safe, nutritious food to maintain gratitude for the access and the bounty of food we have available at our a healthy and active life.” There is some debate over this, as some policy researchers tend to see food insecurity more as disposal, particularly here in B.C., but this often negates our responsibilan economic problem than a food specific problem. In this case, food insecurity is defined as “inadequate or insecure ity to investigate our food further. “We should just be grateful for what access to food due to financial constraints.” we have” is, to me, the death of all conversation and discourse around the So what is food security and what does it mean to be food insecure?

C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 3 0

28 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

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3 F B M . F B U 3 F B M P D B M

politics of food. Why do we do this? Why do we turn our backs on deeper conversations about food that investigate its wider meaning beyond what we experience here in Victoria? Well, because it makes us uncomfortable. When we are pushed to investigate our food further than necessity or the allure of a pretty Instagram photo, we are forced to confront our privilege, our sense of entitlement, and often our ignorance on some of the deeper and more divisive aspects of our food. As a food writer, I want to know everything about food, including the things that make me uncomfortable with my own habits, preferences and opinions. In our next two issues I intend to take a deeper look at the politics of food and see just how uncomfortable I can get. I hope youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll join me.

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EAT Magazine SEPT/OCT 2017_Victoria_56_Layout 1 9/8/17 2:00 PM Page 32

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

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Isabelle Bulota’s

SPICED PEAR UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE THE POET EMERSON ONCE SAID THERE IS ONLY 10 MINUTES IN THE LIFE OF A PEAR WHEN IT IS PERFECT TO EAT. THIS RECIPE GIVES THIS FLEETING FRUIT A RICHER LIFE. Autumn has arrived, that fruitful time of baking. This cake is a beautiful blend of fresh sweet pears, citrus and cardamom, a twist on some well-known classics such as pineapple upside-down cake and French tarte tatin. The practice of cooking a cake upside down comes from a time when cakes were cooked in cast iron skillets over the fire. This version is baked in a single pan ready to be a showstopper dessert.

INGREDIENTS 2 Tbsp unsalted butter, and more for buttering pan 1½ cups all-purpose ﬂour, and more for pan 3 Tbsp orange juice 1¾ cups sugar, divided 1 cup pomegranate molasses * 2 medium or 4 small ripe pears (about 1½ pounds) 1 cup unsalted, roasted pecans or walnuts 1½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp baking soda ½ tsp kosher salt ¼ tsp ground cardamom 4 large eggs 1 tsp ﬁnely grated orange zest 1 cup olive oil

METHOD Preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter a tart pan measuring 10 inches in diameter by 2 inches deep and line bottom with a parchment paper round; ﬂour sides of pan. A ﬂuted tart pan works too.

minutes. Pour syrup over pears and place tart pan in the freezer while preparing the batter. This will allow the syrup to set up. Remove from freezer before it gets solid. In a small food processor, pulse nuts and remaining flour until finely ground. Pulse in baking powder, baking soda, salt and cardamom. Using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat eggs, orange zest and remaining 1½ cups sugar until pale and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Fold in dry ingredients in two batches, fully incorporating before adding the next batch, then gradually mix in oil. Pour batter over pears and smooth top. Place pan on a baking sheet and bake until top is golden brown and a tester inserted in the centre comes out clean, 50–60 minutes.

Peel pears, cut them in half lengthwise and remove cores. Set aside.

Once cooked, let cool in pan for 15 minutes. Gently loosen the cake around the edges and invert onto a serving plate. Remove parchment and let cake cool completely. Serve accompanied with French vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of pomegranate molasses, if desired.

Add pears, cut side up, and cook on medium-low heat, covered, until they begin to release their juices, about 5 minutes. Let cool slightly, then arrange pears, cut side down, in prepared tart pan.

* Palestinians love to use pomegranate molasses; it brings a tangy sharpness to dishes. You can ﬁnd pomegranate molasses in Middle Eastern markets or shops. Or simply make your own by combining 4 cups of pure pomegranate juice, 2⁄3 cup sugar and 1⁄3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice in a small saucepan and cook on medium high (stirring often) until the liquid has reduce to about 1 cup of molasses.

Cook orange juice, ¼ cup sugar, ¼ cup molasses and remaining butter in a skillet over medium heat, stirring, until sugar is dissolved and mixture is slightly reduced, about 3 minutes.

Return skillet to medium heat and cook liquid in skillet, uncovered, until thickened and syrupy, about 3

RECIPE + STYLING Isabelle Bulota PHOTOGRAPHY André Rozon 33

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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

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ON THE ROAD

WILL TRAVEL FOR FOOD

When food writers head out on the highway, they’re not just looking for landmarks and great views. Their radar is on for the delicate aromas of cooking, the welcome sight of a sidewalk bistro or the fragrant sizzle and smoke of a street-food cart. Over the past six months, four EAT writers have visited some fascinating places: one of the smallest and most rural island in the Japanese archipelago; the most Asian city outside Asia (hint: you’ve been there); the place locals call “Tuscany without the tourists”; and Canada’s own ﬂourishing wine country. They packed their appetites, their discerning and educated palates (and maybe even some Tupperware), so they could bring back four unique stories to share.

36 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

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TRIP

ONE

Richmond’s Dumpling Trail Food writer Cinda Chavich seaplanes over the Strait for a fix of hole-in-the-wall dining, Chinese-style. THE INSTRUCTIONS ARE SIMPLE, BUT THE EXECUTION IS TRICKY. I manoeuvre my chopsticks into the bamboo steamer, lift the soupy dumpling by the nub that sits at the apex of its 18 perfect folds, slide it through a saucer of inky black vinegar sauce and pop it, intact, into my mouth. When it bursts open, revealing all the hot, porky perfection within, I’m right back in Shanghai, the birthplace of the famed xiao long bao. But I’m not in China. I’m in Richmond, just a quick hop from home on the seaplane. It’s the place I visit for my Chinese food fix, a city that’s considered “the most Asian city” outside of Asia, especially when it comes to authentic Chinese, Taiwanese and Korean food. With more than 800 restaurants—half of them crowded along a busy, three-block, neon-lined highway they call Food Street—Richmond is king of the “hole-in-the-wall” food experience. There are mall kiosks, night market stalls, family-run noodle shops and bubble tea merchants, barbecue joints, cafés and bakeries, in fact so many food vendors it’s hard to know where to start. But with the city’s Dumpling Trail map in hand and recommendations from local chefs, I’m off on a hole-in-the-wall marathon. BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS A Hong Kong-style café or cha chaan teng makes the perfect breakfast stop and I duck into the Lido Restaurant for a milky caffeine hit of coffee mixed with black tea (yes, it’s a HK thing) and the house specialty bo lo yau, a pineapple bun, warm from the oven. There’s no pineapple in this popular pastry, but the golden, crackled topping makes the sweet roll look a little like a ripe pineapple and, with a thick slab of cold butter wedged inside, it’s a classic Hong Kong treat. Chinese bakeries offer portable breakfast items, from barbecue pork buns to flakey pastries, and at Kam Do Bakery we fill a bag with their individually wrapped coconut buns and warm Portuguese egg tarts. A bubble waffle, a crispy street snack to munch while slurping a pearly bubble tea, is another morning option. We find them baked by a happy grandmother at the Rainbow Café in the Parker Place food court. DOING DIM SUM Dim sum is a great way to stretch breakfast into lunch while sampling a wide array of small bites. If you arrive before 11 a.m., many restaurants will give you a discount. Lineups are always a good sign and they’re lengthening when we arrive at Chef Tony Seafood Restaurant on No. 3 Road, a contemporary space swathed in glossy white enamel, with private rooms, giant video screens, pristine china and the requisite crystal chandeliers. Owner Tony He is a celebrity chef who opened his first Sea Harbour restaurant in Zhongshan City in China, then expanded to Richmond and Los Angeles before creating the eponymous Chef Tony here in 2014. The dim sum menu is illustrated and easy to navigate, and soon a selection of house specialties begins arriving from the kitchen.

Chef Tony is the new hot spot, but there are 40 dim sum restaurants in Richmond, and thanks to the inﬂux of top Cantonese chefs from Hong Kong, each has its specialties and fans, whether it’s the Shiang Garden shrimp dumplings, Dinesty XLB or steamed barbecue pork buns at Fisherman’s Terrace.

PHOTOS BY CINDA CHAVICH

The fluffy, fried taro dumplings (wu gok) come with a sliver of abalone perched on top, the translucent har gow has matusake mushroom in the sweet shrimp filling, and steamy egg buns ooze golden custard. Like his pork and shrimp siu mai topped with black truffles, his food is all about elevating the traditional with upscale twists.

EAT Magazine SEPT/OCT 2017_Victoria_56_Layout 1 9/8/17 2:00 PM Page 38

DUCK, DUCK, PIG There’s a row of mahogany, glazed ducks hanging in the window next to the busy takeout counter at Hong Kong BBQ Master, and we slide into one of the handful of tables in the back. Tucked into the parking garage below a busy supermarket, it’s a true hole-in-the-wall but a favourite of Vancouver chefs. Eric Leung is the longtime barbecue master, and while his son Anson is at the counter chopping, Eric is delivering his masterful barbecued duck, honeyglazed pork char siu and addictive roasted pork belly with its crisp layer of crackling. Leung explains how he learned the traditional barbecue techniques 25 years ago and still fires up his big ovens every day at 8 a.m., with “everything sold out every night.” Fresh ducks arrive each morning and by evening 40-60 of them have been served. There’s no better Chinese barbecue in town. Have it simply served over rice or line up with the locals and get your barbecue pork, soy sauce chicken and glazed duck, by the pound, to go. SHANGHAI TO SZECHUAN There’s a window into the kitchen at Su Hang and we watch the chefs making authentic Shanghainese specialties by hand while slurping their juicy pork XLB dumplings and enjoying ma lan, an unusual but alluring cold dish of minced bean curd and cooked greens. Then it’s off for a taste of southern China at Szechuan Delicious, an unassuming eatery crammed into a row of low-slung strip malls on No. 3 Road. Inside, under the glare of neon lights, we dig into plates of spicy green beans, ma po tofu, slippery mung bean “jelly noodles” (liangfen) and tender sole fillets poached in chili oil, dishes that conjure memories of Chengdu. The mouth-numbing Szechuan peppercorns (the dried husks of Chinese prickly ash berries) have a tingly astringency that confuse the taste buds and quell the burn, making me reach for more. Cold beer helps, too, but an even better antidote is the mountain of shaved ice and chopped mango at Mango Yummy next door. We share a big bowl and leave with a coconut mango drink, sucking back cooling chunks of mango and chewy tapioca bubbles through a fat straw.

Snowy Village Dessert Café is the new hot spot for chilly Korean sweets, the young crowd digging into big bowls of frosty bingsoo, the creamy ice milk sorbet that’s the specialty here. The massive ball of fluffy ice comes in a frosty metal cup, all-dressed with chewy glutinous rice cakes, sweet red beans, mochi and a dusting of crunch soy beans. The Croissant Taiyaki, a hot crispy waffle filled with custard, is shaped like a cartoon fish. There’s so much unusual and authentic Asian food to sample here that a day, or even a week, is never enough time. But Richmond is just a 15-minute ride on the Canada Line from nearby YVR (Vancouver International Airport), or 30 minutes to the downtown Vancouver waterfront, so it makes a great weekend getaway or a quick diversion if you’re en route to anywhere else. The experience—and my yearning for crispy roast pork and ethereal shrimp dumplings—makes me want to build in a layover every time I travel. It’s a chance to enjoy a Hong Kong minute, right here at home.

TRIP

TWO

Le Tour de Bonito Sol Kauffman samples 1,200 kilometres of mini-mart and small-restaurant food culture by bicycle on the island of Shikoku, Japan. ALMOST EVERYTHING IN JAPAN TASTES LIKE FISH.

MALL FOOD Whether you’re pressed for time or just want a cheap and convenient spot to sample an array of Asian street food, Richmond’s many malls are the place to go. The glittering Aberdeen Centre is right next to the Canada Line stop, and the entire top floor is a sprawling food court. It’s easy to get sidetracked with all of the cool Asian shopping opportunities here. Daiso, for example, the Japanese $2 store, is a treasure trove of Asian housewares. But we ride the escalator to the busy food floor to explore the many micro mom-and-pop operations, offering Chinese, Japanese and Korean options. Look for the lineups before making your choices, but don’t miss Frappe Bliss for ethereal Taiwanese shaved ice and the stunning selection of moon cakes at Saint Germain Bakery. Next, it’s off to Parker Place, and we line up at Parker Place BBQ Meats hoping for a slice of roast pork with crispy crackling from the slab of meat hanging in the window. The queue moves quickly, and soon we have takeout containers filled with pork, sweetly glazed char siu and chewy chopped duck. Pine House Bakery and Joy’s Taiwanese Kitchen are also popular kiosks in this old-school, Hong Kong-style mall. We stop at Lai Taste for their fish bahn mi, a foot-long Vietnamese roll filled with panko-crusted fish, cucumber and cilantro salad, and wash it down with a cold lemon tea from Break. Each mall has its specialties, and we head to Red Lantern in President Plaza, where Miss Lee Liu is busy making her “water-boiled pork and cabbage dumplings” to sell hot with vinegar/soy dipping sauce or frozen, by the dozen, to take home. To finish our shopping mall safari, we traipse off to the Richmond Public Market with its fruit and vegetable vendors, meat markets and fishmongers below a mezzanine level food court. Robert Duan, owner of the Xi’an Cuisine food stall, is busy pulling fresh noodles, and we try the lamb soup, cumin-scented jia mo lamb “burger” on flatbread, and liangpi cold noodles tossed with cucumbers and spicy chili oil, a true taste of northern Chinese street food. SWEET DREAMS Alexandra Road is Richmond’s busiest Food Street and that’s where we end up, in search of a sweet nightcap to our day of non-stop noshing.

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This April I joined my friend Kentaro in riding a 1200-year-old Buddhist pilgrimage on Shikoku, Japan’s smallest main island. I figured I’d never get a better excuse to explore a legendary food culture than by burning an extra 4000 calories a day, and Japan’s got to be on every raw a-fishionado’s bucket list. For those less piscatorially inclined, beware: evidence of being on an island was everywhere, not least of which the fact that bonito and kombu stock permeated almost every meal. I swear it was even in the hamburgers. It took me a while to get acclimatized. With the language barrier, judging restaurants was tough. On the first day, in Tokyo, I walked around with my phone in front of my face, trying to Google Translate things written in cursive. Foursquare found me a stack of two-inch-thick buttermilk pancakes at Pinocchio (Tokyoites are crazy for pancakes) a café with a brick-tile floor and childsized furniture. I was the only single diner, and as I sat down to read the Japanese menu, with my legs sticking out both sides of the table, culture shock started to creep in. The pancakes tasted more like Instagram glory than my dad’s delicate hotcakes, but the owners saw my wet hair and gave me a free umbrella—my first introduction to just how friendly and polite everybody was. The next day at Ikebukuro station, I got overwhelmed by people and maps. Panicking to get back above ground, I dashed through glass doors into a variety junkie’s mecca: the takeout floor of the Tobu department store. Zucchini, young bamboo shoot and avocado salads sat in massive ceramic bowls. At a walk-through bakery, women tonged egg-glazed bread rolls onto trays to be thrice-packaged and carried home. The pink and orange jumbo prawns, tiny squid and fish were so bright and fresh that next-door’s baking was the only scent in the whole seafood section. Immaculately dressed hawkers smiled and called out to offer deep-fried everything. The reality of visiting 88 temples by bicycle through a largely rural setting in two weeks is that most of our meals came from kombinis (convenience stores), choked down one-handed while pedalling up mountains. Thankfully, the typical mini-mart in Japan is a major upgrade from Couche-Tard. The eggs in the deli sandwiches are cooked with a layer of barely set yolk and slices of toothsome albumen. Orange-tinted “pizza” bao come hot from the steamer, full of basil, tomato and stretchy cheese. There were pancake duos with syrup sandwiched between, and stamped, crescent-shaped Twinkies filled with banana purée. We made ministrations at many a temple to the savoury wonder of Calorie Mate, easily digestible shortbread bars that have to be far less nutritious than advertised. I can’t recommend the vacuum-sealed, hard-boiled quail eggs,

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Zaru soba in a roadside surf shack. Kaiyo, Tokushima. PHOTO BY SOL KAUFFMAN but squid jerky is surprisingly moist. And in the absence of a trustworthy-looking restaurant (or enough willpower to search for one), we often found ourselves buying discount donburi and goma-ae from grocery stores, still as saucy and delicious as they’d been at lunchtime.

In Hiwasa, I ate my ﬁrst okonomiyaki, jumbo savoury pancakes full of cabbage, pork belly, veggies, shrimp and whatever else (American cheese?!), dressed with bonito ﬂakes, Japanese mayo and a sweet, thick version of HP Sauce.

I’d be remiss not to mention the vending machines. I was disappointed not to see any hot food ones; Japanese people are apparently leery of cockroaches. But the sight of $2 cans of Asahi Super Dry, a Japanese rice lager, often brought me to the brink of tears, and I never had to worry about running out of the milky Gatorade-lite that is Pocari Sweat (or its virtual clone, Aquarius.) We also visited hot springs almost every day to shower and soothe our muscles, and the fruitﬂavoured bottled milk sold is both culturally appropriate and delicious.

In Uwajima, I found Asumo, a tiny, spotless bistro brilliant with window light. The women there oﬀered the best teishoku (set meal) of the trip: bits of delicately arranged local chicken, taro root, tofu, carrots and egg. Another roadside stop was the surf shack in Kaiyo, where I drank sweet tea and slurped zaru soba, cold buckwheat noodles dipped in soup stock.

My dreams of Jiro’s sushi will have to wait, but that doesn’t mean I never got to go gourmet. In the fishing town of Muroto on Shikoku’s south coast, I got my own giant room in a ryōtei, a traditional dinner lounge. The steep under the sea cliffs off the coast are apparently perfect fishing grounds for kinme, a.k.a. sea bream or “splendid alfonsino,” and the signature donburi featured it as both teriyaki and sashimi. The geisha-esque server managed to be charming and polite despite my nonexistent Japanese and the fact that she clearly had her hands full judging from the volume and timbre of karaoke audible through the tatami walls. Michelin stars aren’t the be-all and end-all anyway. Predictably, my most memorable meals were at small, local spots that served one thing and one thing only, such as the charcoal-grilled yakitori, with all the chicken and pork you’d expect, plus tender asparagus, green onions as big as your thumb and balls of crispy rice with butter in the middle, washed down with giant frosted mugs of Suntory Premium Malt in Saijo, Ehime.

And, of course, there was the ramen. My friend Kentaro’s favourite spot in Tokyo served up the thick, fatty mouthfeel I’m always searching for back home, while in Kochi I had it with acidic, funky black garlic I could still taste for hours. And in Takamatsu, soaking wet and cold after riding alone all day, I spread out my soaked yen to dry out on the counter and reinforced my ramen with a pound of pork belly. If there’s one thing I regret, it’s that 1200 kilometres and 20,000 metres of elevation in just two weeks left me feeling less inspired than exhausted. The pilgrimage is traditionally done on foot over 40 days, and every time I met someone walking I envied the time it gave them to think and to travel with conscious intent. It’s what you put into the journey that matters, and in retrospect, I saw this reflected throughout Japan. From konbinis to Kobe beef, a devotion to flavour, quality and presentation elevated even basic ingredients into unrecognizably exciting and delicious things. Things that usually tasted like fish.

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Ah, Bella Italia Joseph Blake explains his infatuation with Italy. “The rolling hills, the vineyards, the olive groves and the food, ah, the food.” TRIP

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Writer Joseph Blake enjoying a coffee at Rosa Salvo Pasticceria in Piazza Giovanni e Paolo, Venice . Best capuccino and croissants in the world. PHOTOS BY LYNNE MILNES

A COUPLE OF YEARS AGO, MY WIFE AND I MET AN ITALIAN COUPLE while holidaying in Cuba. They were from Macerata, a small city in the Marché region on the Adriatic coast. Stefano described the area, with its small-farm wheat ﬁelds, olive groves, vineyards and rolling hills topped by old stone hill towns, as “Tuscany without tourists.” “Come visit us,” Stefano urged as the four of us soaked and swam beneath the Cuban sun. “Come to Macerata and you can have my house and car.” And that’s exactly what happened in May. Stefano and Paola met us at Ancona Airport and drove us to their home while showing me how to use his Fiat hatchback with its LPG (compressed natural gas) fuel system. They picked us up later at the house (Stefano and Paola stayed at his mother’s house during the visit) to take us to their favourite local winery, one of the many family-run, small-lot wineries in the Marché. We spent three weeks touring the Adriatic coast from Venice to the heel of the boot in Puglia, returning to Macerata on long weekends when Paola, an accountant, and Stefano, a school administrator, ﬁnished their work week and were ready for long, late dinners at their favourite restaurants followed by leisurely passeggiate, midnight strolls through narrow, subtly

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illuminated lanes. The lighting, like seemingly everything in Italy, was beautifully designed. Ah, bella Italia! And the food! Our friends’ favourite place in Macerata was La Lupa e L’uva, a rustic family restaurant carved into the old town’s walls. I feasted on quail egg and truﬄe sauce, rabbit with seasonal asparagus, gnocchi with spinach in a beef sauce and pecorino. We drank Rosso Penni from Ascoli. While in town, we also had a long, leisurely lunch, including pasta mancini with fresh arugula pesto and hazelnuts at the Carducci family’s Osteria di Fiori, behind the central square’s theatre and clock tower. After our ﬁrst weekend in Macerata, we took the train to Venice for a monastery stay near the Rialto Bridge, which also housed a daycare. After a short walk deeper into the neighbourhood and away from the Grand Canal’s hordes, we discovered Rosa Salva, where we hung out over the best cappuccino and buttery croissants I’ve ever tasted. We found Osteria Fiore nearby and enjoyed a sumptuous, long lunch with impeccable service with a roomful of Venetians and a handful of lucky tourists like us. I ate mixed salad fresh from

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the garden and similarly fresh scallops and sliced asparagus, polenta with artichoke hearts and tiny, delicious shrimp. Another afternoon we left the Biennale crowds and took a vaporetto to a showing of David Lachappelle’s powerful, visionary photos and lunch at Guidecca’s canal-side Trattoria Altanella, a fourth-generation gem that regularly hosted Hemingway and many Italian stars of the arts. We feasted on Nonna Irma’s gnocchi stuffed with cuttlefish and tender filet of John Dory. We usually ate one big meal in the middle of the day, then took our passeggiata and enjoyed Italy’s famous gelato. In Venice, we discovered Venchi’s intensely rich, chocolate gelato. It was the taste equivalent to my all-time favourite record album, vocalist Johnny Hartman’s velvety dark chocolate readings behind sax great John Coltrane’s transcendent phrasing. One of Stefano and Paola’s greatest gifts was including us in their extended family of friends, boyhood pals who over 50 years had grown into a brotherhood that ate, partied, played music and vacationed together every weekend. We met Maurizio, a lawyer who was one of those boyhood pals, and his special-education teacher wife Serena in Ascoli Piceno, the hometown of Cafe Brio’s Silvia Marcoli. Ascoli is known for its stuffed and fried Olives Ascolana and for serving espresso laced with Meletti’s anisette liqueur. Maurizio works often at the courthouse there and took a group of us to Ascoli’s Ristorante Sesi, where the 15 euro daily offering included friedstuffed olives, spaghetti parmigiano, shredded pork with mixed green salad and crema catalana. Maurizio also took us to a little winery near his father-in-law’s house. The old man joined us on the vineyard patio to taste St. Joseph, a robust Sangiovese red that was my favourite local wine. Stefano also took us to a couple of country bistros, including Chalet Nuah near Tolentino and Serpillo in Torre de Colle, a tiny medieval village with a restored old schoolhouse hostel. Named

for a variety of local thyme, Serpillo served traditional, regional food, including a risotto-like pasta with pigeon in a creamy, pistachio-flavoured cheese sauce. I also had roast guinea hen with potato-truffle cheese sauce. Lynne, Stefano and Paola chose the buffet, a 10 euro bargain that included pickled chard, garlic and capers, pâté, foie gras, crêpe with smoked salmon topped with crème fraîche, mixed greens, squid salad, fennel salad, andouille sausage, polenta, olive buns and eight kinds of cheese for dessert. In Urbino, the hilltop birthplace of my favourite painter, Raphael, we discovered Antica Osteria de la Stella Ristorante. A vibrant little university town and UNESCO World Heritage Site, Urbino’s beloved Antica Osteria de la Stella has been serving elegant meals since the 15th century. I had tender venison with wild blueberries and polenta followed by lemon sorbet to cleanse the palate before vanilla gelato with crunchy caramel bits and chocolate. The meal we enjoyed at L’Antico Forziere, an agriturismo in the tiny village of Casalina, was an unforgettable, Michelin-star extravaganza. We ate all afternoon, beginning with an amuse bouche of tiny, cheese sliders and a big Piedmont red that launched this feast in a country home. The kitchen was manned by twin brothers and a third brother front of house. A salad mix from their garden preceded pasta with succulent pigeon and broad beans, squash ravioli and duck ravioli. I had venison with fresh-picked peas, and Lynne had a shaved pear salad with foie gras, lobster ravioli, toasted panchetta and greens. We were so stuffed we couldn’t face the brothers’ famous 16 euro dessert, a five-course showcase that chef creates anew daily. They wouldn’t let us leave without a chocolate, quince and pistachio dessert framed on the plate with heart-shaped strawberry dots and featuring a sugar spoon. We’ll never forget that day, that meal, that holiday in bella Italia.

Shaved pear salad with foie gras, lobster ravioli, toasted panchetta and greens at l’Antico Forziere in Casalina near Deruta, Perugia.

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METROPOL STUDIOS

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Interior Divine Shelora Sheldan’s insider’s guide to eating beautifully in the Okanagan.

TRIP

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Soup Flight at Brodo in Penticton. PHOTOS BY BILL BLAIR

WHEN I MOVED A YEAR AGO TO THE SMALL-TOWN SETTING OF PENTICTON, I set out to explore the culinary wellspring of the South Okanagan. Poised between Okanagan and Skaka lakes, the city is mile zero between the big-city notions of Kelowna to the north and the dry desert and wine-growing regions of Oliver and Osoyoos to the south. With breathtaking vistas at every turn, I’ve visited wineries, cideries, breweries, distilleries and even a “fizzery,” making connections with chefs, restaurateurs, farmers and other artisans of gastronomy and enjoying the fruits of their labours. I’ve also noted a delicious undercurrent of change. Those seeking a lifestyle revamp from the hectic and unaffordable pace of Vancouver and the Island are injecting Penticton and its surrounds with tasty new ventures. And they’re finding a receptive audience–me included! Here are just a few of my foodie finds of the region, my El Dorado in the making. It’s more than enough to whet your appetite. PENTICTON Main North in downtown Penticton is on the rise. Find chef-owned eateries, breweries and wine bars, opened by ambitious and forward-thinking entrepreneurs. They complement the array of cool independent boutiques and galleries that are making this ’hood the place to be. Watch for: TIME Winery, a downtown winery, tasting bar and restaurant co-created by legendary Harry McWatters, and Il Vino, a wine bar/eatery slated to open in the new year by Il Vecchio deli owners. The Bench Market, a popular local hangout, provides a deftly curated selection of meats, cheeses, farm eggs, preserves and take-home meals. Many stay for morning fruit scones or breakfast and lunch wraps over local Backyard Beans coffee. Act like a local and order a “Canadiano.” 368 Vancouver Ave., 250-492-2222, thebenchmarket.com

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Front St Brasserie’s Lisa BaxterBurke and Chef John Burke and the Tart du Jour Chef Paul Cecconi’s precept at Brodo is “simple, fresh food made by nice people.” Fans flock for the trio of homey and hearty soups–don’t miss the ginger-spiked bone broth in the winter–and seasonal salads like the maple-smoked salmon and potato salad redolent with fresh dill. Multiingredient sandwiches are also sure to satisfy. Dinner is Friday and Saturday only with a weeklychanging roster of perogies, ribs, burgers or dreamy ricotta gnocchi. 483 Main St., 778-476-1275, tastebrodo.com Communal rustic wood tables, Tiki cocktails and a funky farm-to-table menu set things right at Craft Corner Kitchen, an industry hangout. Chef, pickle crafter and doughnut creator James Holmes serves up a crazy good poutine with apple fries, pulled pork, local cheddar with apple vanilla salt and gravy. The daily doughnut flavours boggle the mind, and you haven’t lived until you try the hot pickled chicken with house bread and kitchen pickles. Did I mention pickles? 557 Main St., 250-493-2368, craftcornerkitchen.com Akin to “opening up our house every night” is how owners and ex-Vancouverites Lisa and John Burke view their intimate 12-seat Front St. Brasserie, one of the city’s most elegant rooms. Rub elbows with local winemakers and dig in to prawns Provençal, duck confit, roasted beet and walnut salad or the savoury tarte de jour. Wine list stays mostly Okanagan with ace French picks by the glass and bottle. 66 Front St., 236-422-2008, frontstreetbrasserie.com A rite of summer passage for many is inner tubing down the Okanagan River Channel. Halfway down, appearing like a mirage, is Ralph “Relvis” Ramsay, a First Nations Elvis tribute artist and co-owner of HounDogs Reztaurant. Donned in a sparkling white onesie, Relvis sings and swivels, jokes and entices diners at the open-air eatery where bannock is also king. They smother made-to-order burgers, smokies, “triple threat” poutine, native perogies and even bannock banana splits with optional peanut butter. 4570 Green Mountain Rd., no phone, no web

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Apple Poutine at CRAFT CORNER KITCHEN

The 100-block of Main Street is closed off every Saturday from April to October from 8:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. for the stunning Penticton Farmers’ Market, bringing organic farmers, food trucks, gardeners, bakers and purveyors from the entire South Okanagan region and beyond for a rich array of food stuffs. Insider’s Tip: Arrive first thing to avoid the tourist crush. Cult following: organic, oven-roasted garlic scape sea salt and wood-fired breads from Farmersdotter, and choripán from A Taste of Argentina, the best chorizo in a bun ever and served with a boatload of chimichurri. pentictonfarmersmarket.org It started with a request for a custom root beer for soda entrepreneurs Jason Cox and Millie Holmgren. But it was a star turn on Dragon’s Den that boosted their confidence to take The People’s Soda to the next level. A sweet downtown location in a former auto shop and a new soda lineup helped too. The fizzery, which opened in late spring, creates eight handcrafted sodas and three still beverages, using all natural herbs, spices and organic cane sugar. The root beer, made with 14 ingredients, including sassafras and sarsaparilla, is very cool. Seasonal ingredients such as elderflower and sumac for their lemonade are sourced locally. 215 Winnipeg St., 250-328-2028, the peoplescrafthouse.com Sharing the soda company’s lofty space at the People’s Crafthouse are fellow entrepreneurs Shayna and Josh Shulman of Smugglers Smoke House. Having met while cooking at Hillside Bistro, the chefs’ mutual love of southern barbecue led them to a successful stint cooking it up at Legend Distillery in Naramata. Over the winter, they “followed their heart” and took a chance with a Kickstarter campaign to obtain a proper smoker and their own place. With woodchips gleaned from local orchards, the prized smoker goes 24/7 to accommodate their best-selling brisket, pulled pork, ribs, chorizo and chicken. Housemade sauces and sides of cornbread and mac ’n cheese are perfect companions. So are the bourbon cocktails. 215 Winnipeg St., 250-493-0381, no website Those in the know avoid the hectic lunch hour at Sushi Genki (the restaurant has minimal seating). Instead, we choose a mid-afternoon lunch to sample chef Kazuo Noguchi’s remarkable menu served with quiet efficiency by wife Tomoe. While the sushi hits all the right notes, it’s Noguchi’s pedigree (Tokyo, Banff Springs Hotel and Old Vines at Quail’s Gate) that shines through with housemade broths for deep comforting bowls of tonkotsu and barbecue ramen, as well as expertly sourced fish for sashimi presented with amazing creativity, finesse and value. The tuna tataki with truffle-ponzu sauce is a revelation. 95 Eckhardt Ave. E., 250-490-9809, sushigenki.com NARAMATA BENCH Brimming with incredible wineries, cideries and distilleries, the Bench requires that travellers also indulge in some food to help them get through it all. The latest edible options include Picnique at Joie Farms Winery. Stake out a seat in the orchard overlooking the vines and place your order at the gorgeous outdoor wood-fired oven and kitchen manned by cook and ice cream savant Alex Sielman. Enjoy Neopolitan-style pies dotted with seasonal farm fare, duck fat potatoes and crispy schnitzel sandwiches. End the perfect day with Sielman’s ice cream and a game of bocce. 2825 Naramata Rd., 250-496-0093, joiefarm.com Christopher Royal, longtime wine director at Vancouver’s Nook and Tavola, moved lock, stock and family to take on Upper Bench Winery and Creamery’s new al fresco pizza patio. The certified pizzaoli holds court with assistant Michael Kaisaris, formerly of Vancouver’s Re-up Bbq, slinging a five-pie-and- antipasti menu. The slow-fermented dough provides a wonderful chew and char via the 900-degree wood-fired forno. Upper Bench cheeses come into play with King Cole blue, a luscious hit with San Marzano tomato sauce, prosciutto, chili and local honey. 170 Upper Bench Rd. S., 250-770-1733, upperbench.ca

CRAFT CORNER KITCHEN Chef James Holmes with Burnt Apricot + Mint Sugar Donuts

KELOWNA When the lack of choice becomes an issue, a drive north is quick to satisfy. Just avoid the strip mall grotesquerie. A trip to chef Jason Leizert’s Salted Brick is not complete without a round of raw oysters, handcrafted charcuterie and ace cheese selection, with a signature duck-fat-peanut butterchocolate bar to finish. 243 Bernard Ave., 778-484-3234, saltedbrick.com Hailing from Lyon, France, Sandrine Rauffault makes a heavenly selection of buttery, flaky pastries at her namesake patisserie. Croissants, brioche and palmiers start the day, with

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macarons, truffles and exquisite cakes for any occasion. The savoury side offers country pâtés, rilletes, duck confit and quiche to further fatten you up, and cooking classes help you create your own je ne sais quoi. Sandrine French Pastry and Chocolate. 1865 Dillworth Dr., 250-860-1202, sandrinepastry.com Former pastry chef Julian Helman found his sweet spot with single origin cacao and chocolate, adding in local farm fruit and ingredients, plus a healthy dose of creativity at Karat Chocolate, his atelier for exquisite handcrafted bean-to-bar treats, truffles and bonbons. 1174 High Rd., karatchocolate.ca Next door provides the perfect pairing: Dave Upshaw’s Canoe Coffee Roasters, a small-batch farm-to-cup roastery that also caffeinates the general public out of a vintage 1956 Shasta camper trailer. 1176 High Rd., 250-215-8012, canoecoffeeroasters.com The newest artisanal addition is QB Gelato, a real-deal gelato and sorbet shop. Kevin Bojda and Victor Laderoute, who both trained at Gelato University Carpigiani in Italy, have created a marvelous, locally sourced and seasonal menu of flavours. The peach gelato gets a creamy rich sweetness from mascarpone and local Arlo honey, and local sour cherries become "Bella Pink" sorbet with Bella Wines sparkling rosé. 1884 Dayton St., 250-861-6622, qbgelato.com

OLIVER/OSOYOOS From Penticton, head south via Lakeside and Eastside roads to Highway 97 for a picturesque drive that skirts Skaha and Vaseaux lakes and heads for the desert dry climate of Oliver and Osoyoos, passing orchards and vineyards along the way. For sustenance, I never miss Shannon Peltier’s The Lake Village Bakery in Osoyoos. Get there early, or phone ahead (they sell out fast) for sourdough cinnamon buns and croissants, or the daily bread, a slow-fermented, wild yeast and organic ﬂour mix with incredible depth of ﬂavour. Open Wednesday to Saturday, 6511 Main St., 250-495-3366., thelakevillagebakery.ca

THE INTOXICATING AROMAS FROM HER OUTDOOR OVEN GREET YOU UPON ARRIVAl Master baker Fiona Duncan also rises to the occasion at Oliver’s Platinum Bench Winery. The intoxicating aromas from her outdoor oven greet you upon arrival, where four styles of epi compete for attention. Will it be the plain, the gorgonzola and ﬁg, the double cream brie, or the Swiss cheese

and sopressata? One of each, please! 4120 Black Sage Rd., 250-535-1165, Platinumbench.com For authentic Mexican flavours, pull up to El Sabor de Marina, a roadside stand in Oliver. Juicy chicken or beef tacos are some of the best, served on hot corn tortillas with crunchy slaw and fiery homemade salsas to complete the fiesta. 5356 Highway 97, no phone, no web. Chef Rod Butters and Audrey Surrao of Kelowna’s RauDZ and Micro Bar & Bites have gone south to Oliver with Terrafina at Hester Creek by RauDZ. The popular “build your own board” allows diners to create their own sharing platters from a diverse list such as lamb chops, marinated squid, artichokes and cheeses, but I’m partial to the pot of mussels in white wine, garlic and tomatoes. Great cocktails, too! 887 Road 8, 250-498-2229, terrafinarestaurant.com Pampered service, lofty views and modern wine country cuisine is always on offer at Miradoro at Tinhorn Creek. Co-owner and maître d’ Manuel Ferreira takes care of the former and chef Jeff Van Geest the latter. Stay on the tapas side with a bagna cauda, a warm garlic and anchovy sauce for dipping roasted local vegetables. Or pull out all the stops with halibut in a heavenly paella consommé with chorizo, confit potatoes and octopus. 537 Tinhorn Creek Rd., 250-498-3742, tinhorn.com/restaurant

Naturally elegant Clos du Soleil

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THE WINE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED Since the pulling up and replanting of vineyards in the mid-1980's the Okanagan wine region has grown steadily in size, complexity and quality. And yet there comes a time in any industry when the impulse to return to the small, the simple and the sustainable becomes strong. Increasingly, Okanagan wine folk are intent on producing distinctive wines that have a provenance—an expression of the precise soil and climate from whence they came. A few of these wineries are state-of-the-art, others are all rustic simplicity, but most are etched tightly into the Okanagan’s hilly vineyards, away from any sort of hubbub. These wine folk attract custom by word of mouth, wine clubs, restaurants with well-thought-out wine lists, intimate wine dinners and sometimes parlour-sized tasting rooms where the atmosphere is casual and friendly. When you pop by for a visit, there’s almost always someone “close to home” to take you through the wine. Your first greeter is likely the resident pooch or feline. BY JULIE PEGG the bubbles occur naturally. Bella is a tiny wine facility in Naramata dedicated solely to 12 single vineyard bubbles. Owner/winemaker Jay Drysdale fashions fizz in both traditional method (think Champagne) and méthode ancestrale. Two Bella Gamay Pét-Nats are distinctly different. The West Kelowna single vineyard smacks of Rainier cherries, the (Naramata) Mariani Vineyard clone 787 of fresh currants and rhubarb. Jay’s traditional aged-on-the-lees blanc de blanc Chardonnay is a damn good facsimile of Champagne.

The wineries I’ve chosen are only a few amongst the many wineries following this trend towards more personal philosophy to growing and making wine. This is a mere cross-section of Okanagan wineries that are still very much wedded to the business of wine but are avoiding the corporate side of the industry.

LOCK & WORTH (www.lock&worth.com) Winemaker Matt Sherlock keeps his Lock & Worth wines pure and simple, including the plain white labels. Since the wines receive little or no filtering or fining, they remain slightly cloudy. The Semillon 2016 is 100-percent single vineyard. Vibrant fruit rather than oak frames the Merlot 2016. Matt’s Cabernet Franc Rose 2016 has a cult following and sells out shortly after release. Oh! And Matt’s also the national marketer, peddler and delivery guy.

DAYDREAMER (daydreamerwines.ca) Marcus Ansem gets around. The recent MW (Master of Wine) graduate had made wine in Nova Scotia, Ontario, South Africa, France and Italy as well as on his Australian home turf before settling into the Naramata Bench in 2004. His wines are vegan friendly and sustainably farmed. Daydreamer Riesling 2016, dry and steely, brims with green apples, lemon and lime zest. Marcus Ansem’s says of his naturally fermented Chardonnay 2015 “that it walks a fine line between edgy and lush.” This translates into up butter, macadamia nut and zippy acidity for me. The tasting room opened in 2016. Bring a picnic when you visit. The stunning view from one of the picnic tables begs you to linger for a nosh and a sip.

ROCHE WINES (www.rterroir.com) Dylan Roche honed his winemaking skills in France. His wife Penelope grew up in a chateau in Bordeaux. After settling in Naramata, they made wines off-site for four years before opening the Roche Wines doors to the public in July. Organically grown grapes go into all Roche wines. I find Pinot Gris 2016, with its hint of flint, pear and ginger, among B.C.’s best. Meanwhile, the Arome 2016 made from Schonberger blends sweet stone fruit with bracing acidity. “Finally we have a physical anchor,” says Dylan, “but we plan to stay small. We’re in a good place.” He’s referring not just to the winery but to the family, which isn’t staying so small. A third little Roche is due in October. KANAZAWA (kanazawawines.com) In 2016 Richard Kanazawa unlocked Kanazawa’s rustic yet charming tasting room, a former picker’s cabin on the Naramata Bench, six years after his first wine release in 2010. Kanazawa’s labels evoke Richard’s Japanese heritage. In Nomu, Viognier and Semillon meet a dash of Muscat—a delightful match for Asian dishes. Raku, a Rhône-inspired Syrah fermented with a bit of Viognier, sells pretty much out of the back door. The Pinot Noir rosé flies off the shelves year round—if it lasts that long.

BELLA (bellawines.ca) The craze for méthode ancestrale sparkling wine or Pétillant Natural (Pét-Nat if you’re a wine nerd) follows, ironically, an ancient method of bottling and capping unfinished wine to let

TH WINES (thwines.com) The th tasting room fits snugly into a Summerland industrial park with other hands-on business folk—a coffee roaster, a microbrewery, a furniture maker and a guy that makes paddle boards. A friend built the tasting room table. Owner/winemaker Tyler Harlton (hence the th), is a plaid-shirt-and-boots, plaintalking guy. Regarding winemaking, he says. “Pick beautiful grapes. Then squish and ferment.” Wines should “never get a battering,” he says (which also means holding back the sulphur). The Pinot Noir 2015 is cherry/raspberry, chocolate and spice and approachable right out of the gate. An agreeable quinine note and extremely long finish rounds out the apricot flavours in the Viognier 2016.

PENTÂGE (pentage.com) Since Paul Gardner and Julie Rennie first released a Syrah in 1999, Pentâge Winery has progressed into a high-tech facility along with a 5,000 square-foot natural cave that offers the visitor a unique wine experience. But Paul still refrains from publicity. And Julie likes working in the tasting room. Pentâge’s 5,000-case, small-lot production sells mainly by word of mouth, on-site and in restaurants. The Pentâge Red Wine 2012, still lively with tightly wound tannins, evokes bright black currant, spice and cedar. A hint of lemongrass comes through on an otherwise fleshy Pinot Gris 2015. CULMINA (culmina.ca) In 2006, Don Triggs, former Vincor CEO, swung from (very!) big business to boutique. He tucked his form-follows-function Culmina Winery neatly into the Okanagan hills. There’s accommodation for only 10-12 guests for reserve tastings and six for portfolio tastings and/or vineyard tours. It’s wise to book. Triggs follows his love of Bordeaux grapes with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot as single varietals, or they meet in splendid unison in Hypothesis 2012. Dilemma 2014 ranks in my books among the Okanagan’s most delicious and balanced Chardonnays—at once rich yet elegantly edgy.

OROFINO (www.orofinovineyards.com)

WILD GOOSE (wildgoosewinery.com)

In 2014, Orofino owner John Weber shifted from commercial yeast to fermenting with wild yeast and in concrete vats, harmonious with his straw-bale and solar-panelled facility. John seeks out precise sites suited to specific varietals. His most recent release—Pozza Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2016 offers up dried thyme, green leaf and red bell pepper notes. There’s more than just a hint of enthusiasm in John’s usually measured voice over the Wild Ferment Syrah 2016, a lovely mélange of dried herbs, peppercorn, dark fruit and wet stone.

Wild Goose founder Adolf Kruger fled East Germany to the Rhine Valley during the Second World War. There he learned to love Riesling. But it wasn’t until he settled in the Okanagan that he spotted the chance to make his beloved wine. Undaunted by government bureaucracy and skepticism, he pushed on and launched B.C.’s first farmgate winery in 1990. Riesling remains a Wild Goose Signature wine. The Stoney Slope Riesling from the rocky vineyard immediately off the tasting premises is a true testament to Adolf Kruger. Although no longer considered “boutique,” Wild Goose winery remains all in the family. His elder son Hagan and his two sons have also followed in his footsteps with winemaking and vine growing. Adolf’s younger son Roland handles the marketing for Wild Goose. “Right to the end,” he says, “dad was our best consultant.” It seems fitting to sum up this story with Adolf Kruger, who passed away in November 2016 at the age of 85 and who right from the start respected deeply the Okanagan terroir. Here’s to those committed to keeping that deep respect for land, vine and wine going strong

CLOS DU SOLEIL (www.closdusoleil.ca) “It’ll take a lot of blood, sweat and tears to work that rugged site,” says Clos du Soleil winemaker/managing director Mike Clark of the winery’s newly acquired 10 acres of steep, hilly terrain. The future “Les Collines” vineyard, which will be devoted to organic Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, will lend further complexity and elegance to the already Estate White’s wet stone and full-fruit characteristics of the Estate Reserve White, reminiscent of a white Bordeaux. Mike also goes for a minimalist approach with the wine. “I hesitate to call them natural though, lest people think there’s some funkiness or weird stuff going on.”

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SPONSORED

LONGWOOD BREWERY

Why Nanaimo, W

Longwood Brewery Brewery & Tasting Room 2046 Boxwood Road, Nanaimo 250-591-BREW (2739) longwoodbeer.com

n a day and age of countless choices and options, what makes the beer at Longwood so great? The authentically fresh and local west coast flavour in every sip. Any wine connoisseur will tell you that where something grows greatly impacts its flavour. And the folks at Longwood are strong believers that this concept of “terroir” truly defines what local craft beer can be.

That’s why at Longwood Brewery, they rely on classic recipes for exceptional taste: combining their passion for great beer with quality community soured ingredients. They are proud to support local farmers by using hops, barley and other ingredients grown all over Vancouver Island. In fact, one-hundred per cent of Longwood’s current hop supply comes from within 20 km of the brewery and currently, 50 per cent of their barley comes from central Vancouver Island. For a true taste of the Island, there’s no better place than the tasting room at Longwood Brewery. With a quaint interior marked by beautiful custom wood details, the tasting room has a casual and comfortable atmosphere, complete with a friendly four-legged mascot - Milo “The Brew Dog”. The brewery is the perfect setting to sample both flagship brews and exclusive concoctions. The brewers behind the scenes are always working on new and exciting experiments featuring different flavour combinations that you’ll only find in the tasting room. Nestled in the heart of Vancouver Island and just off the Nanaimo parkway, the Longwood Brewery is where the magic happens. Inside this unique brewery is also where Longwood’s famous beers are carefully made and packaged, before heading off to stores all across British Columbia. From the complex and rich flavours of Stoutnik, the Russian Imperial Stout, to the crisp and clean Island Time Lager, there’s a beer to suit every taste at the Longwood Brewery.

48 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

LEFT TO RIGHT – TRACY MCLEAN, HARLEY SMITH & MILO THE BREW DOG FROM THE LONGWOOD BREWERY AND MIKE CAMPBELL & JOHN MCPHAIL FROM THE LONGWOOD BREW PUB

N THE LAST COUPLE OF YEARS, Nanaimo has shed its industry town reputation, earning a new one as an up and coming destination for younger and older generations alike. Offering an affordable alternative to the Lower Mainland, while still promising that desirable west coast lifestyle, it’s easy to see why. Situated on the gorgeous coast, Nanaimo is a mecca for outdoor recreation, complete with modern amenities and just a 20-minute floatplane ride away from Vancouver. Far more than just a hub for visitors passing by, Nanaimo is an exciting destination just begging to be explored for its food, culture - and of course, the craft beer. And there’s no one more passionate about the dynamic community that is Nanaimo than the folks at Longwood. As a long-standing member of BC’s craft brewery scene, Longwood is proud to be a part of this world-class industry that attracts visitors from both near and far. It’s also a key stop on the Central Island section of the famed BC Ale Trail. The brew pub and restaurant has been serving up delicious island-grown flavours for over 17 years. With the addition of the offsite brewery in 2013, you can now get that refreshing Longwood taste in two separate Nanaimo locations. Each offering a unique experience, the two venues perfectly compliment each other, united by the same values and passion that makes Longwood so great. Only ten minutes apart, each offer a different selection of beers on tap that time and time again are worth a stop. All the beer at both the brewery and the brew pub starts with the amazing community of local growers on Vancouver Island and ends in the hands of locals who buy it for the great taste. This symbiotic relationship is the reason why Longwood strives to be an active member of the vibrant community that is Nanaimo. Longwood is a proud supporter of local initiatives and programs like the RCMSAR, Enviro Racing BMX group, the Van Isle 360 International Yacht

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o, Why Longwood?

LONGWOOD BREW PUB Longwood Brew Pub & Restaurant 5775 Turner Road, Nanaimo 250-729-8225 longwoodbrewpub.com

ood company, great food, amazing beer - at Longwood Brew Pub, it’s the simple things that matter. As one of Vancouver Island’s favourite brew pubs, Longwood has earned its stripes as an iconic community landmark where expertly made and delicious beer from locally sourced ingredients is just the beginning.

Race, the Mid Island Masters 55+ Dragon Boat Team and hometown TV stars Two Men and their Fishing Rods, to name a few. Another one of the passions at Longwood? Celebrating top-quality craft beer with top-quality people in an awesome atmosphere. While you can find this every day at both the brew pub and the brewery, it was also the inspiration behind Longwoodstock - Longwood’s very own backyard beer and musical festival. This two-day event held at the Longwood Brewery features fantastic music from artists from Nanaimo and beyond, experienced alongside a celebration of the craft brew culture that BC is known for. Each year, Longwoodstock takes place on the second weekend in August. This year featured outstanding musical performances by The Booms Booms, the Tequila Mockingbird Orchestra and Lion Bear Fox, plus many more. But for both the staff and owners at the Longwood Brew Pub and Longwood Brewery, the ultimate passion is about providing the best experience possible for their guests. Friendly and knowledgeable staff and obsessively local ingredients offer an authentic experience where you’ll always feel at home. Locally owned and operated, the owners are just as involved and passionate about every step of the process as the day they started. As Rebecca Whyman eloquently said in BC’s craft beer book, the Growler, “Longwood is among many BC craft breweries that brew with authenticity, integrity and strong commitment to the communities they serve.”

Longwood Brew Pub & Restaurant stands proud as the "jewel in the crown" of Longwood Station. Nestled within beautiful landscaping and natural west coast wilderness, the Longwood Brew Pub is accessible via the Nanaimo Parkway from Victoria, Duke Point ferry terminal, or the old Island Highway from Departure Bay ferry terminal and all points north. Just like with the beer, they strive to use local products and only the freshest ingredients in all creations. From satisfying crowd-pleasers like the housemade burgers and wings complete with beer infused sauces, to the more refined selections like the mango chilli lime wild salmon or the fresh harbour salad, their chefs deliver more than just average pub fare. And their hard work is clearly paying off, with Longwood Brew Pub winning the coveted title of best pub in Nanaimo for 2017. With a combination of delicious flavour creations by chef Shane Hagan and a relaxed atmosphere with friendly, knowledgeable staff, the pub is a favourite of both locals and tourists alike. Whether you are watching the game with friends in the downstairs pub or spending quality time with loved ones in the family-friendly upstairs restaurant, the warm and inviting atmosphere has made Longwood Brew Pub Nanaimo’s favourite rendezvous destination for all.

And of course, the whole experience is complete with great beer. Featuring a number of core beers on tap, with a tap or two that rotate with diﬀerent selections or seasonals, there's always something new or classic to try - depending on your taste. So next time you are in Nanaimo, reset your clock to island time at the Longwood Brewery and Longwood Brew Pub & Restaurant.

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BEER

That Man Behind the Curtain Talking shop with brewery founder Matt Phillips. story by DANIEL MURPHY photography by JOHANN VINCENT

50 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

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DANIEL MURPHY

IT FEELS AS THOUGH EVERYONE IN THIS TOWN KNOWS “MATTY.” Granted, it’s hardly New York or Sao Paulo, but whether it’s personal, business-related or simply as an enthusiast for his eponymous beer portfolio, his persona has become a part of local Victorian lore. Our fair city’s modest size also makes it an unlikely candidate to house one of the largest independent breweries in the country, and the fact that it does is a testament to its founder’s tenacity and courage. Yet even as I write that, I can hear Matt correct me: “Honestly, it was really just stupidity and luck.” For all that he has accomplished, he is incredibly dismissive of praise. Similarly, he is the very public face of a growing empire, yet instinctively deflective and private. He has a flair for grand, arm-waving creative direction, but also needs to have his fingers on the pulse of every minor detail. While almost every Victorian may “know” Matt Phillips, I’ll bet that it’s only partly, at best. Matt is a broad-strokes entrepreneur, a visionary. He arrives at our table at the Drake later than planned (having sent a courteous note earlier that he’s running behind schedule) and, after polite salutations, he discusses his current projects: relocating the Phillips distribution warehouse; commissioning an industrial bottle-washer (making bottle reuse possible, rather than recycling); building a new tasting room, tour area and retail store. Projects that are, in his opinion, “boring as shit for most people.” I pry a little more into what these projects mean for him, day to day. His first response to the warehouse relocation is that “it’ll bring people together. Right now we have two plants, doing their own thing. Which is fine, but …”

OUR FAIR CITY’S MODEST SIZE ALSO MAKES IT AN UNLIKELY CANDIDATE TO HOUSE ONE OF THE LARGEST INDEPENDENT BREWERIES IN THE COUNTRY, AND THE FACT THAT IT DOES IS A TESTAMENT TO ITS FOUNDER’S TENACITY AND COURAGE.

Unexpectedly, his priority is unity within the company culture; logistics aren’t solely an afterthought, I’m sure, but they don’t appear to be the crux of the move. The current warehouse is only four or ﬁve blocks up the street. He names the employees who will be positively impacted by the move and muses that a company’s culture is dynamic, waxing and waning, and that it’s a very interesting thing to contend with.

The bottle-washer has been a five-year endeavour. Huge chunks of two-storey-high machinery have been intermittently worked on and constantly relocated around the facility in the musicalchairs shuffle for free space during their steep arc of production growth. But despite its possibly premature purchase, the drive for a smaller environmental footprint has been a constant priority for Matt well before it became a global marketing necessity. But Matt is also obsessively detail-oriented. As he explains the new tasting room and tour area project, it feels a little less “boring as shit” for him personally. He grows visibly excited discussing the finer points. Through windows in the main seating area, you’ll be able to see directly into the packaging operations, which he claims will be “far more fascinating than any kind of television.” I can vouch for this—having worked on a few bottling and canning lines—but whether it will be fascinating like the choreographed water fountains of the Bellagio Hotel, or fascinating like the Hindenburg disaster, will very likely vary from day to day. The tour area itself was not conceived as a tool for a bombardment of Phillips propaganda but rather as an interactive experience that explores the materials and processes that go into a batch of beer, on a universal level. Matt reaches his peak of animation explaining how they are working on a button mechanism that patrons can push. This will release a nitrogen charge from a canister of whole hops, allowing tour-goers to experience the preserved aromas of the very real thing, just as it is received by the brewery prior to their addition to the brew. These types of details play into the carnivalesque C O N T I N U E D O N F O L L O W I N G PA G E

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Victoria’s Authentic uthentic Taste Taste of Italy

motif that already permeates the brewery’s aesthetic and atmosphere. In chatting to Matt, it becomes obvious that this is really an honest reflection of the way its founder’s mental wheels turn–it’s all about the orchestration of awe and fun. We, as customers, are the children punching our tickets and sitting down excitedly for a moment of magic and wonderment. But forget the top hat and bravado. Matt’s demeanour is more in line with the Wizard of Oz than P.T Barnum. Matt is as humble as a martyr about the accomplishments of his company. When I compliment him on his handling of the awesome growth of his business, he’s an icon of deflection. He lists his first handful of employees, and his current maintenance team–everyone on the payroll, really–in a “they’re the real heroes” kind of way. At the mention of his squalidly humble, thoroughly documented beginning—financing the whole company on a string of credit cards, sleeping in the windowless warehouse between long days on the brewery floor—he responds with a weary “it’s all true.” Obviously, it’s a tale he’s been required to recount or confirm countless thousands of times. But some of it bears repeating.

106 Superior Street | 250.380.0088 | IlCovoTrattoria.ca

After acquiring a biology degree in New Brunswick at Mount Allison University in Sackville, he landed brewing jobs in Canmore, Whistler and Penticton before moving to Victoria to brew around 1999. The industry suffered a slight depression in ’97, forcing many breweries to shut down. This meant that, occasionally, heavily discounted used equipment came up for grabs, and finding one of these sweet deals was enough to push Phillips Brewing into its first incarnation. The banks were looking at this struggling industry as a passing fad and were appropriately tight-fisted with their lending. So Matt loaded up with crippling credit card debt before he even had a product to sell, which then necessitated a feverish and exhausting campaign to generate any revenue whatsoever. He even started building brewery tanks: “If we could sell one, we’d have the sweat equity to be able to build one for ourselves.”

Celebrating years WE CAME CLOSE TO SHUTTING IT DOWN. IT 25 “WASN’T GOING HORRIBLY, JUST THE HOURS… SERIOUSLY. ” .

MATT PHILIPS

Still, after a couple of years, there just hadn’t been enough traction to cover the cost of operations. “We came close to shutting it down. It wasn’t going horribly, just the hours … seriously.” Then two or three years later came the first Eureka moment: Phoenix Lager, in a short, fat bottle known colloquially as a “stubby.” It boomed, the revenue finally caught up to the payables, and the rest, as they say, is History. The story has been the bait on the hook for any beer buyer who can relate to the prototypical underdog story. But being the stuff of legend appears to be a tiring endeavour. So much so that Matt pines for a moment about how great it would have been to not have his own name as the banner for the company. It’s interesting to picture a parallel world, in which Matt’s face and persona aren’t front and centre in the marketing for his enterprise. It doesn’t quite feel right. I ask how he sees his position in the company now, as everything continues to expand explosively around him—the brewery, the soda works, the distillery, the malt works, the concert series … “I see myself as the Gatekeeper. It’s a fine line between the ‘Meddling Owner’ and the ‘Absent Owner.’ I walk that line and focus on the things I care about. I try and avoid over-involvement.” One of Matt’s keys to maximizing the input that he does have, ensuring that it permeates into the rest of the company, is to always hire enthusiasts, in all aspects of operations. “It’s crucial that they ‘get’ beer.” Although he’ll tell you it was basically all just a fortuitous turn of events, one can’t help but seek the concrete decisions, the methodology, the master strokes that built the Phillips empire. The answer from the source is that it takes a well-integrated team of devoted employees who share a singular vision, total dedication to authenticity, “a genuine alignment” between brand and product, and that most fickle and indifferent element: timing. If you want anything deeper than that, there’s a long queue at the gates of the Emerald City. Best of luck.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

T S…

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cocktails WE ARE A CITY THAT LIKES THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE. The number of restaurants, cocktail bars and craft beer establishments per capita rivals anywhere in North America. It’s a culture that breeds the best because we have a well-informed, genuinely interested clientele that are always on the hunt for local, artisanal and wellmade products. In recent years, with the demand for craft beer, small-lot wine and artisanal spirits booming and customers clambering for the newest trend, a similar demand for soda and syrups wasn’t going to be too far off. One of the first soda syrup producers in Victoria was New Theatre, spearheaded by brothers Ryan and Geoff Malcolm and friend Kyle Bienvenu. They produced a tonic syrup almost a decade ago that continues to be the company’s staple product to this day. The company followed soon after with the Dead Snail ginger ale concentrate, with the same success.

SHAWN SOOLE

SOUR LEMMY 2 oz Jack Daniels 1 oz Phillips Speedking Craft Cola Syrup (with star anise and vanilla in the reduction) 1 oz lime juice ½ oz egg white Top with a Phillips Speedking. • GLASS -Highball • BUILD - Shake all ingredients and double strain into glass, top with cola • GARNISH - Dehydrated lime wheel

This is a business created out of necessity. Long before Fentimans or Fever-Tree tonics hit the market, there was no other option than Canada Dry tonic for the cocktail bartender or enthusiast. New Theatre tonic is still kegged and on tap with the classic pairing of Beefeater 24 gin at Fiamo on Yates Street, something you must try on your next visit. With New Theatre tonic leading the way, the market continued to crave niche soda syrups and bottled sodas and the ﬂood gates opened. Organic Fair Syrups from Cobble Hill have not only changed the game for soda lovers but also for bartenders looking to use their syrups in cocktails; their root beer syrup in an old-fashioned with cognac is to die for. Victoria Soda Works has been producing old school pops for the last few years and harks back to the days of mid-century soda shops with ﬂavours such as Blue Bridge Raspberry, Cherry Cola and Cream Soda. When Phillips launched the Fermentorium a few years back with Stump Gin, they began producing a quartet of tonics that lead also to the release of their Intergalactic Root Beer, Sparkmouth Ginger Ale and Daredevil Orange Cream. Their latest release is the Speedking Cola, truly a throwback to what cola used to taste like. And that’s what RJ Broekhuizen from SüLT Pierogi Bar loves about it. SüLT is an unapologetic space that used to house an Internet café; it is raw and eclectic. This is space where you can hang out with friends, have a quick lunch or take a date before the movies—an underrated cocktail joint. RJ has taken the bar from a cheap beer and wine spot to a legit cocktail space in just 13 months. The Sour Lemmy is one of the house’s most popular drinks, a cross-hybridization of whisky sour and Jack Daniels and Cola. RJ uses the Speedking in two ways, as a syrup, which he reduces with some star anise and vanilla, and then in its bottled form as the sparkling element. The drink is a pretty, fragrant cocktail whose creamy texture is the result of the egg whites being aerated by the cola. RJ epitomises the old saying: “Any bartender can be great in a great bar, but only a great bartender can make any bar great.”

THE SODA POP CHRONICLES Pictured: RYAN BROEKHUIZEN WITH THE LEMMY • Photo by Rebecca Wellman

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Liquid Assets

LARRY ARNOLD

WINES TO DISCOVER From a top-notch Vermouth to a wallet-friendly Chinati CARPANO PUNT E MES VERMOUTH ROSSO, ITALY $29.00-33.00 With its aroma of wormwood and hints of bitter herbs, Punt E Mes is considered by many to be the world’s greatest red vermouth. The recipe is still a family secret but I can tell you this: It’s slightly sweet, it’s slightly bitter and it’s absolutely delicious! renaissancewine.ca SAINT-LOUIS BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT NV, FRANCE $13.00-15.00 A big hit with impoverished Champagne drinkers, Saint-Louis Blanc de Blancs has a fine persistent mouse with delicate peachy aromas, subtle fruit flavours and a fresh soft finish. An inspired bet during desperate times when only bubble will do! Well, the price is certainly right and the quality remarkably high. chartonhobbs.com VENTURI-SCHULZE BRUT NATUREL ROSÉ 2012, COWICHAN VALLEY, BC $36.00-45.00 These guys are tenacious and dogged in their pursuit of perfection. Their goal is to produce wines of character that express the unique terroir of their vineyard. Using the black-skinned Zweigelt grapes, this fresh sparkling rosé, is bottle-fermented and has no added sulphites. It is bone-dry with a vibrant pink hue and delicate yet persistent bubbles. Medium-bodied with red cherry, raspberry and spice on the nose and subtle fruit flavours balanced with a slash of racy acidity. venturischulze.com

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$18.00-20.00 If you have always considered yourself a bit of a wine expert but have never heard of Gruner Veltliner, don’t beat yourself up about it-nobody has. It is a white grape that is considered by many Austrians to produce the best wines of that great country. Very crisp and very clean, so clean, its cleanliness may prompt you to ask yourself: “What’s the big deal,” but give it a moment and there it is! Fleeting, subtle, ethereal, then firm and unrelenting! Apples and pea pods with delicate herbal notes and a crack of white pepper. A pas de deux of fruit and acidity. info@christopherstewart.com

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NICHOL VINEYARD PINOT GRIS 2016, OKANAGAN, BC $17.50-19.50 Located at the end of the road, Nichol Vineyard is one of the oldest wineries on the Naramata bench. The Pinot Gris was left on the skins for 36 hours before being pressed and fermented in a combination of open top fermenters and used French barriques. Gorgeous salmon colour with a delicate floral nose but plenty of richness on the palate. Drinks like a red with surprising weight and a blush of drying tannins. info@christopherstewart.com SPERLING VINEYARDS OLD VINES RIESLING 2013, OKANAGAN, BC $32.00-35.00 First planted in 1978, Sperling Vinyard’s riesling vineyard is amongst the oldest in Canada. Rich and powerful with dried apricot, citrus and petrol aromas. Slightly viscous on the palate with lush fruit flavours and plenty of racy acidity. Nicely balanced with a great length. sperlingvineyards.com

WHITEHAVEN MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017, NEW ZEALAND $18.00-21.00 Bursting with zesty lime, pink grapefruit and passion fruit aromas that expand through the palate picking up citrus, gooseberry and minerals nuances as it opens up. Like the cold edge of a razor blade! Dry and clean with great fruit and bright acidity. Very highly recommended! gallo.com

CLOS DU SOLEIL GROWER’S MIDDLE BENCH PINOT BLANC 2016, SIMILKAMEEN, BC

$13.00-15.00 This is one heck of a Pinot Blanc! Very aromatic with a seductive apple blossom and nectarine scent. The palate is light and juicy with delicate fruit flavours and a long clean finish. Very elegant and fresh. verticalwine.ca SACRED HILL HAWKE’S BAY MERLOT CABERNET 2014, NEW ZEALAND $18.00-20.00 What a pleasant surprise. New Zealand is not the first country that jumps to mind when I find myself looking for cabernet sauvignon or merlot. I stand corrected because this is one heck of a wine. Very nicely crafted with full marks for its deep inky colour. The aroma is ripe and spicy with red berry, cassis and herbs. Full-bodied with concentrated fruit flavours and soft tannins. pacificwineandspirits.com

STRACCALI CHIANTI 2015, ITALY $12.75-15.00 Medium-bodied, with simple cherry, strawberry and dried herb flavours, nicely balanced with good acidity and a soft backbone of fine-grained tannins. A very easy drinking Chianti at a good price. appellationwine.ca

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

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ADRIENNE’S RESTAURANT & TEA GARDEN AT MATTICK'S FARM est. 1957

DUNCAN

MATTICK’S FARM

Hudson’s On First

Adrienne’s Restaurant & Tea Garden

Award winning dining in a beautifully restored heritage home. Local ingredients, classic techniques and made from scratch cooking are a just few reasons to visit us in Duncan more often. Celebrate Bubbles & Brunch, Lunch and Dinner.

Come visit our Bakery, Deli, Ice Cream Parlour, Restaurant and Tea Garden and celebrate our 60th anniversary! We’ll be doing a monthly draw for a gift bag valued at $60. We look forward seeing you at Adrienne's! To all our guests: “Thank you for your Patronage!” Join us for Breakfast, Lunch, Afternoon Tea and Coffee and try our new desserts!" 5325 Cordova Bay Road, Victoria, BC, 250-658-1535 AdriennesTeaGarden.com

163 First St. Duncan, BC, 250-597-0066, hudsonsonfirst.ca

Duncan Garage Café & Bakery Back to school? Get your family off to a good, nutritional and delicious start with our homemade, wholegrain bread for sandwiches and don’t forget the cookies. We’ve got you covered. Looking forward to serving you healthy and vibrant Duncan Garage Creations. Open 7 days a week. 330 Duncan St., Downtown Duncan (across from the railway station), 250-748-6223

VICTORIA PUBLIC MARKET Whisk As we head into Fall, our appetites change to heartier fare. At WHISK, we carry Le Creuset stock pots and casserole dishes. Bread baking bannetons and pizza stones. Everything to enhance your Sunday afternoon. Come and visit us at the Victoria Public Market. At the Victoria Public Market, 778-433-9184, whiskvictoria.ca, Facebook and Instagram. Open 7 days a week

WHISK Victoria Public Market 778 433 9184

Kitchenware

IT’S IN OUR HANDS. HAND-CRAFTED BREAD MADE WITH FRESHLY STONE-MILLED FLOUR AND ONLY CERTIFIED ORGANIC OR SUSTAINABLY GROWN LOCAL INGREDIENTS . NATURALLY LEAVENED AND BAKED TO CRUSTY PERFECTION IN WOOD-FIRED BRICK OVENS. 1517 QUADRA ST.

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