EAT Magazine May|June 2021

R E S TAU R A N T S | R E C I PE S | W I N E S | F O OD | C U LT U R E

®

22 years at the forefront of local food and drink INDEPENDENT & ISLAND OWNED

MAY | JUNE 2021 ISSUE 25-03

o t s n i u m g n m i r e p r! s

Smart. Local. Delicious.

Savour Cowichan Valley’s

growing wine reputation The 14 wineries in Cowichan Valley are recognized as a new sub-geographical indication (sub-Gi) in Canada. As any oenophile knows, the appellation is a legally defined and protected geographic indication used to identify where the grapes are grown — with 95% of them coming from the specified region.

Enjoy wines from Cowichan Valley, from crisp whites, soft rosés, deep reds and luscious dessert wines — there’s a wine to suit every taste.

Find out more at tourismcowichan.com 2

MAY/JUNE 2021

Welcome As we continue to deal with the Covid crisis, its impact on our industry as a whole is evident. It makes me incredibly proud to see how restaurants, hotels, bars, grocery stores, markets, and customers continue to pivot and adapt to the changes the past year has thrown our way. This resilience has always been present in our industry, but this strength has a spotlight shining brightly on it the past year.

In 22 years of publishing EAT, we have seen many industry changes and have watched it grow in BC. But EAT has never been prouder than watching hospitality owners and workers pull together to get through this unprecedented time. Though it is a sad, frustrating, and sometimes scary time, the food and beverage industry has managed to keep my hopes up and provide innovative solutions to eating and drinking well, all done with a smile behind the mask.

EAT hopes to continue to be a part of this group for another 22 years.

And we can't wait to see those smiles once this pandemic is in the rearview mirror.

Cynthia Annett -Hynes

CYNTHIA ANNETT-HYNES EDITOR

CITY EATS

REBECCA BAUGNIET

At press time, restaurants, pubs, bars and food courts remain closed for indoor dining. One silver lining is that the weather is warming up and more establishments are setting up patios and sidewalk seating. See the EAT Guide for listings of take-out, delivery, and patios. eatmagazine.ca Local food businesses continue to rise to the challenge of these times with creativity and imagination. Here is a just small selection of some of our favourite initiatives: Zambri’s has just introduced take and bake pizzas after perfecting their frozen pizza recipe. These are available, along with other house-made pantry items and takeout meals from Tues-Sat. zambris.ca With Broad Street closed to traffic for pedestrians and patios between Fort and Broughton, Pagliacci’s has expanded their cheerful patio with the bright orange Apérol umbrellas. They are now also offering bottled cocktails, available for pick up or delivery. pags.ca. Little Jumbo has mastered the steak-frites to go and also has a delightful picnic tote filled with a gorgeous selection of meats, cheeses, baguette, olives and other treats to set you up for an idyllic afternoon in the park. littlejumbo.ca. The Chinatown Village is creating an impressive selection of meal kits – both cook + serve or heat + eat, as well as a fun array of cocktail kits. villagex.ca. House of Boateng also has a beautiful pantry menu, available 7 days a week for pre-order online, featuring frozen and take and bake items. houseofboateng.ca ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK.COM/ANDREW RYBALKO

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Local delivery company, TUTTI, is also supporting local businesses by offering free delivery with a minimum purchase, providing marketing support to restaurants, and giving out frequent coupon codes for users. Founded here in Victoria in 2017, TUTTI began as a small food and beverage delivery company with the goal of building a delivery service that brings communities together. They have expanded and are now serving Victoria, Kamloops, Nanaimo and Kelowna. tutti.app

Parry Bay Sheep Farm Metchosin, BC

Parry Bay Sheep Farm along with Stillmeadow Farm sells lamb, pork and roasting chicken to restaurants and butcher shops in Victoria and through our on-farm market in Metchosin. We truly appreciate those who “walk the talk” and support local producers. From picturesque pastures to backyard barbecues Parry Bay lambs make people smile.

John & Lorraine Buchanan 250.478.9628 contact@parrybaysheepfarm.com www.parrybaysheepfarm.com

instagram: @parrybayfarm facebook.com/parrybaysheepfarm facebook.com/ParryBayFarmMarket

The Samosa Box is a new, locally owned family-run business specializing in gourmet handmade samosas made with freshly roasted masalas. Find them on Instagram @samosaboxvictoria Refire Kitchen opened at 843 Fort St this spring and offers fully prepared meals you simply take and bake. Their storefront is now open for grab n' go 11-6 Monday through Saturday. Products can be purchased fresh or flashfrozen based on your preference. refirekitchen.ca Oni-Oni has opened at 585 Johnson St, with fresh made Onigiri (rice balls), Dagahi (Japanese candy and snacks), and Nomimono (soft drinks) on offer. oni-oni.com Did we mention that summer is on the way? I think I say this every year, but this still seems like a good time to remind you about Victoria’s incredible small batch ice cream, gelato and frozen treat makers, just in case you’ve been neglecting them over the cooler months.

The Gary Hynes Foundation Thank you to all who have donated!

The Gary Hynes Foundation continues Gary's lifelong goals of giving people chances, mentoring, supporting the food and beverage industry, believing in the power of the printed word, and loving a good bass line in a song.

All donations will go to scholarships for students studying in culinary, journalism, or music disciplines.

Please donate to keep his dream going using the url link below.

Gary Hynes–EAT Magazine founder https://www.vancouverfoundation.ca/hynes and publisher/editor-in-chief for 19 years

Parachute Ice Cream is located in the Rock Bay neighbourhood, at 105-2626 Bridge St. parachuteicecream.com Cold Comfort is available at the @cancanteen walk up window or @cocosprovisions at 2-1115 North Park St.

On the cover:

MAY / JUNE

Smoky White Bean Salad with Tofu Styling + Photography:

Rebecca Wellman

Recipe on page 28 FOUNDER

Gary Hynes PUBLISHER

Pacific Island Gourmet EDITOR

Cynthia Annett-Hynes CONTRIBUTING EDITOR/COPY EDITOR

Carolyn Bateman VANCOUVER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Julie Pegg SENIOR WINE WRITER

Larry Arnold

If you prefer a regular supply, 49 Below Artisan Ice Cream have 1 and 2-pint subscription plans.

49below.ca Mosi sources locally grown produce from Saanich Peninsula farmers and buys foraged products to make amazing traditional Italian gelato daily. mosigelato.com.

Don’t forget about Ottavio’s gelato either! ottaviovictoria.com Kid Sister has closed its Fan Tan Alley location but is planning to rise up in another form soon.

Keep an eye on their Instagram feed for updates. @kidsistericecream Hot off the press from Touchwood Editions, The Distilleries of Vancouver Island, A Guided Tour of West Coast Craft and Artisan Spirits, by Marianne Scott is a guided tour that highlights the recent evolution of the 21 craft and artisan distilleries that have sprung up on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands.

Includes a selection of the island’s best cocktail recipes. touchwoodeditions.com

LAYOUT AND DESIGN

Cynthia Annett-Hynes PRODUCTION AND DESIGN

Tom O’Neill REGIONAL REPORTERS

Victoria, Rebecca Baugniet CONTRIBUTORS

Bill Blair Nate Caudle Cinda Chavich Jennifer Danter D. Lindenlaub Jacqueline Downey Gillie Easdon Deb Garlick Kyle Guilfoyle Cait Irwin Lillie Louise Major Denise Marchessault Elizabeth Monk Daniel Murphy Elizabeth Nyland Daisy Orser Adrian Paradis Adrien Sala Shelora Sheldan Johann Vincent Rebecca Wellman REGIONAL/NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGER

Susan Worrall ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Ron Metella CONTRIBUTING AGENCIES

iStock.com pg. 3, 6, 8, 24, 30 FACEBOOK/EATMAGAZINE TWITTER/EATMAGAZINE INSTAGRAM/EATMAG For advertising and other inquiries: PHONE

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editor@eatmagazine.ca sales@eatmagazine.ca ONLINE

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Visit eatmagazine.ca for more articles, recipes, news and events.

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MAY/JUNE 2021

A New Look!

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Join us for a memorable Afternoon Tea experience at The Teahouse at Abkhazi Garden Reservations Strongly Recommended

778-265-6466 1964 Fairfield Rd. Victoria Open everyday 11am–4pm

Complete menu online: www.abkhaziteahouse.com

COOL KNOWS TERROIR. COOL KNOWS CHARD. COOL KNOWS YOU. You don’t truly know Chardonnay until you know the boutique, rare and cult Coolshanagh.

Order directly from proprietor Skip Stothert coolshanagh@me.com or call 250-809-4695

@coolshanagh 5

Food Matters

JULIE PEGG

MAY TWO-FOUR

The uniquely Canadian long weekend may commemorate a queen, but it’s really the unofficial launch of a uniquely Canadian summer.

IN CANADA, THE MAY long weekend, falling on the second last Monday of the month, commemorates Queen Victoria, ruler of the British Empire from 1837 until she died in 1901. She was born May 24th, 122 years ago, and the uniquely Canadian holiday in her name hearkens back to 1845. Victoria Day 2021 lands smack dab on her birthday. Some provinces term the long weekend “May TwoFour,” perhaps less to do with the revered Monarch’s birthday than to the number of beers in a case of Labatt’s, which, chances are, after the months we’ve had, will be downed in rather large quantity. (Note that in Quebec, May 24th is called National Patriot’s Day.) I have a pretty good inkling that Canadians will be flinging open doors and windows on this unofficial launch into this year’s summer with unprecedented zeal.

We’ll fire up those just scoured barbecues. And yes, it looks as though we can at last share our weekend grilling with a few close buddies. The gardeners among us look forward to getting down and dirty, putting in seedlings and/or plucking young leafy greens and fresh herbs that have popped up from early planting in pots and plots.

One positive I took away from darker days of house-arrest dining was sitting down to a nicely, if not fancily, set table instead of chowing down in front of Netflix, a rut we’d fallen into. As a thrift shop and flea market hound of anything culinary, I began poking through my cache of second-hand vintage cotton tablecloths and serviettes, mismatched china and crockery, and odds-and-sods drinks ware.

Cutlery, inherited from my grandmother and tarnished from little use, got treated to a good polishing. A non-haphazard setting always emerged from the stash, a colour scheme perhaps or a certain pattern. Taking time to eat at the table fostered relaxed and interesting conversation too. What could be better than to continue the habit through brighter days?

This year, since Victoria Day lands on May 24th, I could fashion an uncomplicated version of an English tea starting with a good lounge chair read and a sip of Pimm’s, followed by cucumber-and-egg and watercress sandwiches, followed by an easy-to-whip-up rhubarb and ginger crumble and a pot of Earl Grey tea. Here’s where a pretty tablecloth and plates, silverware, and vintage china tea cups come in. Rolling back to Saturday breakfast I can bake individual eggs with butter in1950s green earthenware custard cups. If it’s just husband and me, I can coddle eggs in two antique Royal Worcester egg coddlers. Or I might set out on simple pottery plates: toasted bagels; smoked salmon; tangy Greek-style yogurt; 6

MAY/JUNE 2021

quark, fromage frais or fromage blanc (instead of cream cheese); and wee bowls in various shapes filled with chopped shallot and capers.

A seafood boil or meaty barbecue is all the better with a bit of a country feel.

Spread butcher paper, or checkered cotton cloth, on a picnic table. Dig into a platter or wooden board piled with ribs (track down lamb ribs if you can) dry-rubbed with herbs, garlic, mustard, and pepper. It’s my preference and far less messy than a sweet, sticky sauce. Or dive into a kettle of mussels and clams steamed in garlic and white wine, or a feed of spot prawns (now’s the season).

What’s needed are colourful buckets. One filled with chunky cutlery and plenty of napkins, another for discarded shells and bones, and individual finger bowls of lemon water, and a big bucket (or cooler) for beer, soda, and a modest wine.

Drink from bottle or tumbler. Feel free to toss a few ice cubes into your wine. Eat with your fingers. Don’t forget country bread rolls and a big bowl of slaw or salad.

And forget paper plates, tin-foil trays and throw-away cutlery. The planet will thank you.

Should un-cooperative weather force you indoors, take inspiration from Italy with the season’s bounty. I’m thinking a soup tureen filled with green minestrone made with fresh peas, fava beans, asparagus, and parsley pesto simmered in chicken or vegetable stock. Or make a silky spring potato soup blended with (again) fresh parsley, watercress, sorrel, mint, chervil, tarragon, and thyme. Either of these soups need little more than a crusty loaf and a leafy salad of young greens.

I raise a vintage tumbler to the start of summer, good-looking tables, tasty vittles, and brighter days filled with health and happiness. Happy Victoria Day … or, if you prefer, May Two-Four!

ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK.COM/ YUNACO

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Enthusiastic Eats

DAISY ORSER

LIKE SALT FOR WATERMELON

This can be a summer of new things to taste, new ways to taste them, and tasting things again as if for the first time.

Familiar Foods.

Elevated.

S U S TA I N A B L E

LOCAL

COMMUNITY

Guinness Burger

steroid + hormone-free BC beef gluten-free option available Try it with Hoyne Pilsner barley, hops, yeast, water · vegetarian

White Cheddar

Beer Perogies vegetarian · gluten-free

Slow Braised

Artichoke + Roasted Mushroom

vegan • gluten-free

vegetarian

Bean Tacos

sixmilepub.com · 494 Island Highway at Six Mile Rd Safe Dine-in, Take-out & Delivery

Lasagne

Scan to view our safety plan

 EAT Magazine: Best Pub to Take a Kid  YAM Magazine: Best Pub Runner-Up  8

MAY/JUNE 2021

I HAVE A SOAP box. I’m happy to come clean about it. It’s where I end up when you ask me about the “value of mealtime,” or if I hear you complain about the nuisance of grocery shopping, of cooking a healthy meal, or meal planning.

It’s where I get loud about these privileges we have, and it’s where I stand when I plead with you to look at things just a tiny bit differently, perhaps a little more brightly, as if the sun were shining on them, in case that’s all it takes for things to taste just a little bit better.

We’ve passed a year of occasions all touched by pandemic, and now we’re lapping.

Ahead of us we have our second “Covid Mother’s Day Brunch,” our second “Covid graduation,” and another “Covid summer.” The impulse to compare these milestones to “before” is strong but casts them in such an unfair shadow. How do they stand a chance at being remarkable when we’ve taken them out of the sunshine and put them in the shade?

We put such pressure on the perception of our milestones rather than the experience of them. I love the idea of leaving them alone to BE as they were intended, celebrations of important people, events, and times in our lives, complemented by memorable tastes, resulting in beautiful new memories.

Mother’s Day hasn’t changed and our earnest appreciation for these women hasn’t changed either. The day is a beautiful example of what really matters, and we can apply it to all of the occasions to come. Remember the year you made mom a necklace of painted dry pasta with sparkles, or some such terrible thing? The one she wore every day and cried about when it broke? She didn’t so much love the necklace as she treasured what it represented.

Just because our occasions will be different doesn’t mean they have to be worse. We may need to find the right angle, when the sun hits it “just so,” in order to appreciate it, but we can. Instead of a huge spectacle, celebrate your occasion with a party-for-few, and control what you can. Instead of making eight different dishes, put the extra energy into making three spectacular ones. Cherish it for what it is, not what it can’t be. Fewer people gathered means more time for each of the ones who are there; it means you get to develop and savour connections. And consider how many fewer dishes there will be to wash, too.

Have you ever put salt on watermelon? Because of the low sodium level in watermelon, when you sprinkle it with salt it draws all of the sweetness to the surface, creating a flavour explosion at the point where the salt hits the fruit. It’s still just watermelon, and it’s still just salt. But it’s brightened, and gives you an entirely sunnier, and new, experience.

We have a summer ahead that doesn’t have to be “another Covid summer.” It can be a summer of new ways to make connections, of new things to taste and new ways to taste them, or of tasting things again as if for the first time. You would be right if you assumed I was talking about tasting food, because it’s the basis for most thoughts that occur to me, but let’s apply this to experiencing each occasion we come upon, because each corner we turn may bring us something familiar. But it can also bring us something new, hopefully accompanied by something tasty, maybe with a sprinkle of salt.

Daisy Orser is co-owner of The Root Cellar Village Green Grocer ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK.COM/ DARIA USTIUGOVA

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EATING WELL FOR LESS

ELIZABETH MONK

OAK BAY HIDEAWAYS

Two charming Foul Bay eateries that are full of surprises.

Caffe Misto 2865 FOUL BAY RD. NEAR NEIL STREET, 250-598-8679

Co-owner Freeman Meng encourages his customers to try what he calls a “Chinese hamburger” from the Shaanxi province. The “rougamo” is a round flatbread cut open and stuffed to the brim with ground pork and lots and lots of diced, lightly sautéed onions, all vibrantly flavoured with jalapeño peppers and soy sauce. The bun is thin, so it is comfortable to eat. There is history as well as flavour in this hot sandwich, as it dates back thousands of years. This authentic taste of China goes for $5.95.

The other Chinese dish on offer is more familiar to Victoria diners. Co-owner Annie Wong makes a fragrant wonton soup for $7.95. The broth is made of braised chicken and pork bones and the dumplings are northern style, so pork meat only, unlike the Cantonese ones that use seafood. Generous seasonings of ginger, soy sauce, and green onion make the dumplings high impact.

10 MAY/JUNE 2021

ELIZABETH NYLAND

NOTHING IS MORE FUN than a surprise. And the quiet little coffee shop called Caffe Misto definitely has one: on top of the classic coffees, teas, sandwiches, and baked goods, Caffe Misto has two Chinese meals on offer, one of which I have not seen elsewhere in Victoria.

CAFFE MISTO'S ROUGAMO— WHAT OWNER FREEMAN MENG CALLS "A CHINESE HAMBURGER" This is not to say you shouldn’t eat the classic café fare! The Apple Rhubarb muffin I enjoyed for $4 was one of the best I’ve had—extremely moist and minimally sweet, with excellent crumble and big chunks of fruit.

There is a humble and gentle feel to Caffe Misto. It is quiet, modest, and uncluttered, and the owners greet people by name and seems genuinely happy to see each person.

And they, in turn, seem genuinely happy to eat the food.

Charelli’s Cheese Shop & Delicatessen 2851 FOUL BAY RD. NEAR NEIL STREET, 250-598-4794

If you’re strategic about coming on a Friday or Saturday, you will catch Pedro’s Breakfast Sandwich for $8.95. The soft bun encases a fluffy omelette, thinly sliced chorizo, a juicy tomato, and a perfect smear of chipotle mayo. I enjoyed this with a Brussels Sprouts Salad on the side. The mixed greens and shaved Brussels sprouts are covered in a delicious dressing of Dijon, white balsamic vinegar, and shallots, with crisped-up lentils scattered over top. It is market price.

Another Covid pivot is the Heat at Home menu, which Charelli’s has expanded.

Offerings range from Mac and Cheese for $9.95 to Duck Confit for $18.95, with the Chicken Scalloped Potatoes and Chicken Parmesan also sounding inviting.

The on-demand items during Covid? Some regular customers craved comfort

ELIZABETH NYLAND

ELIZABETH NYLAND

IN THE SAME LITTLE string of shops is Charelli’s, a charming cheese shop, deli, and caterer of long standing in Oak Bay. Charelli’s Covid pivot was to open a lunch window from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., Tuesday to Saturday. Many delicious surprises emerge from this magic window. If you are lucky, the Grilled Taleggio with Apricot and Capers sandwich for $9.95 will be on the menu. This ooeygooey sandwich is most generous with the fillings, with taleggio cheese oozing like seductive lava out of the diagonal cut. The apricot and capers add a sparkling note to the richness of the cheese. The sandwich manages to be both homey and elegant at the same time.

CHARELLI'S GRILLED TALEGGIO WITH APRICOT AND CAPERS food like lasagna and cabbage rolls, while others mixed things up by using the “What’s New” sheet.

As you wait for your order, you can peer inside the window at the kitchen wares the shop also sells. These and other surprises—specialty foods, gift baskets, books, and magazines—are all available in their new online store.

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Liquid Assets

LARRY ARNOLD

Spring Sipping Easy-drinking wines from Vancouver Island, the Okanagan, and across the globe!

Fitzpatrick Family Winery Fitz Crémant Sparkling Wine 2018 Okanagan Valley $27.99 The Fitzpatrick Family Winery is located in the middle of Greata Ranch Vineyard, perched high on a cliff overhanging Okanagan Lake. The view is spectacular and the grapes grown here are perfect for the production of high quality sparkling wine. The crémant is 100% estate-grown, pinot-blancfermented and aged for eight months in stainless steel followed by the secondary fermentation and a further nine months aging, sur lie in the bottle. Bright and fresh with subtle citrus, apple, and light biscuit notes, juicy acidity, and nicely balanced with a clean dry finish.

Cedar Creek VQA Organic Riesling 2019 Okanagan Valley $18.99 Light and seductive with a lovely bouquet of ripe peaches, apples, and minerals, this wine is nicely balanced with a crunch of bright zesty acidity and a long lingering finish.

Coolshanagh Chardonnay 2017 Okanagan Valley $37.00 Located on the Naramata Bench in the Okanagan Valley, Coolshanagh Chardonnay is big and opulent with vanilla, smoke and hot buttered toast flavours, a lovely creamy texture and a long soft finish!

NEW BUBBLES FOR YOUR BUBBLE Introducing Spinnakers Sodas and Sparkling Mineral Waters.

Ask for Spinnakers new non-alcoholic bubbly drinks in loads of fun flavours at your local grocery and convenience stores.

Tohu Awatere Valley Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2019 New Zealand $24.99 “Nga Hua A Te Whenua.” I think that just about sums it up, but for all you punters out there not conversant in the local Maori dialect, one taste of this fine Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc should deliver the message. Bursting with gooseberry, tomato leaf, mineral, and subtle passion fruit flavours, balanced with fresh acidity and a very long clean finish.

Mission Hill Reserve Sauvignon Blanc VQA 2020 Okanagan Valley $21.99 Very fresh and intense with citrus, gooseberry, tropical fruit, and mineral aromas.

The palate is a riot of vibrant fruit flavours, lively acidity, and a finish that just goes on and on.

Unsworth Vineyards Charme De L’ile NV Vancouver Island $23.40 Charme De L’ile is an island sparkling wine made in the charmat-method (think Prosecco) using only island fruit, predominately pinot varieties and is delicate with a light mousse and an enticing bouquet of green apples, citrus and wet stones. Very fresh with clean fruit flavours, juicy acidity and a lively, crisp finish.

Rocky Creek Pinot Gris 2019 Vancouver Island $22.00 A little skin-contact not only gives this wine a lovely copper-orange hue but alters the texture giving it more weight and roundness. Spicy and balanced with subtle citrus and apple flavours.

EXPLORE THE FULL LINE UP AT 12 MAY/JUNE 2021

Unsworth Vineyards Gamay-Pinot Noir 2018 Vancouver Island $22.90 Winemaker Dan Wright crafted this juicy little Burgundy knock-off from fruit sourced from a vineyard just outside of Kelowna in the Okanagan Valley. Very fruit forward with lovely cherry, raspberry and spice nuances.

Liber Farm and Winery Let Me Be Franc VQA 2017 Okanagan Valley $29.99 Now here is a red you can bet the farm on! Medium to full-bodied with blackberry, red pepper, licorice, and dusty earth aromas, good acidity with savoury fruit flavours, and big, chewy tannins.

Blue Grouse Pinot Noir 2018 Vancouver Island $27.99 Quill Pinot Noir is a blend of fruit sourced from vineyards located just outside Peachland in the Okanagan Valley (36%) blended with Cowichan Valley fruit (64%). The grapes are vinified separately and the wines are then blended, aged in two-year-old French oak barrels, and aged a further 12 months before bottling.

Very fruit forward with lovely cherry, plum, and forest underbrush nuances.

Supple and fresh with a taut acid structure and good length.

Gold Hill Cabernet Franc VQA 2016 Okanagan Valley $34.99 A generously endowed Okanagan Cab Franc that mounts a full-scale assault on your palate the moment the cork is broached. There is nothing subtle about this wine. It is full-bodied with dense fruit flavours and a ripe, fleshy palate. Good length with a patina of soft, fine-grained tannins.

Fontodi Chianti Classico 2017 Italy $38.99 Located south of the tiny village of Panzano, in the heart of Chianti Classico, vines have been cultivated here since ancient Rome was the biggest player on the planet. This estate has history, and although the price of Chianti Classico has soared over the past couple of decades, good Chianti is worth every penny.

Beautifully balanced and elegant with intense black cherry, blood orange, and dusty earth aromas. Full-bodied with sweet fruit flavours, fresh acidity, and a blush of fine- grained, silky-smooth tannins.

NETTLE PESTO BAKED HALIBUT INGREDIENTS

HOW TO MAKE IT

300g Wild BC Halibut 1 cups blanched stinging nettles 2 cloves garlic zest of 1 lemon 1/4 cup nuts (almonds, walnuts, cashews, pine nuts) 3/4 cups grated parmesan cheese 1/4 cup olive oil

To blanch the nettles, put on a large pot of water to boil. Drop nettles directly into the boiling water from the bag without touching them with your hands.

Cook for 1 minute.

250.383.7760

Remove nettles from water to an ice bath, strain and squeeze dry.

Place everything except the halibut into a food processor,

27 ERIE STREET

VICTORIA, BC

blender, or mortar and pestle and blend until smooth.

Preheat oven to 400F. Spread a thick layer of pesto on the halibut (save any extra for your eggs in the morning) and bake in the oven for 10-15 minutes, depending on thickness. Serve with new potatoes and your favourite spring vegetables!

V8V1P8 | WWW.FINESTATSEA.COM

FRESH. LOCAL. MODERN.

ENJOY A NEW TAKE ON PACIfiC NORTHWEST CUISINE. 7 DAYS A WEEK. THE Courtney Room | 623 COURTNEY STREET | WWW.THECOURTNEYROOM.COM 13

Reporter

The Very Good Butchers Fatso

Picot Collective Community Cookbook

W ORDS

Adrien Sala Gillie Easdon Daniel Murphy PHO T OGR A PH Y

Johann Vincent Jacqueline Downey D.Lindenlaub

@N ICHE V ICTOR IA .CA

@N ICH EGRO CERANT VICTO RIA

VGB's new location in the Ironworks project JOHANN VINCENT

14 MAY/JUNE 2021

The Very Good Butchers

1 0 2 - 5 1 5 C H AT H A M S T VERYGOODBUTCHERS.COM

JOHANN VINCENT

Co-founder and CEO Mitchell Scot t at the Ironworks location, set to open in June.

BEAN AROUND THE BLOCK The Very Good Butchers expands into a very new building in Victoria’s Old Town district.

“VEGAN COMFORT FOOD.” Now that’s a lesson in “niche.” But it’s also a culinary direction that sidesteps many of the sinister issues underpinning today’s food-industrial complex. Whether the concern is environmental, ethical, or one of personal health, the rapid success of The Very Good Butchers is proof that our inherited dietary regime is under siege from a new breed of conscious, responsible food supplier. And these rebels are gaining ground—fast.

Conceived in a Denman Island kitchen in 2016, VGB quickly became the darling of the local farmer’s market. Co-founder James Davison recalls spending all week in production, only to sell out in a couple of hours on Sunday. “It was a mix of locals, tourists … basically anyone interested in eating plant-based, and they were usually very unhappy with the selection at their supermarket. I couldn’t make enough.”

Even now, with a presence in food stores from the West Coast to Toronto, and a booming online sales presence, the challenge of keeping up with demand continues. VGB’s packaged products are now created in a Victoria-based production facility, with plans to expand that production to plants (pun intended) in Vancouver and California.

While VGB’s packaged products—along with their

fresh-made goods—are now available to Victorians at their shop in the Victoria Public Market, they’ll soon be expanding on that front also.

The public market location has been the perfect setting for the VGB’s entry into bricks-and-mortar, but the scarcity of plant-based dining options in Victoria has motivated the VGB team to expand their footprint. “When we saw the Ironworks, a new condominium development in Old Town, we just thought ‘what a cool building’—it seemed to fit so closely with what we were doing,” says Davison.

Taking over their own space also gives VGB more freedom over what they can serve customers, and— more important—when. “Rather than closing at 6 p.m., we want to transition to a different feel, a ‘date night’ atmosphere, where people can come and enjoy a drink along with their food.” The new location has a patio and is scheduled to open in June.

Expect to see some new products and variations added to VGB’s already extensive deli selection at the combination retail store and restaurant, including “hams” and more “steaks.” On top of that, the fresh-made “Hot Menu” lunch options will thankfully continue: sizable portions that won’t give you the mid-afternoon lethargy of a traditional burger-and-fries. There’s a range of “burgers,” salad bowls that can be served as wraps, loaded fries, and rotating specials—all minimally processed, with honest ingredients, and a desire to shatter our habitual approach to what we consider “very good” eating. DANIEL MURPHY

rediscover the blue crab Local, fresh and healthy dinner offerings that will make you shell ebrate!

Join us in our lounge, we’re open daily.

COAST VICTORIA HOTEL & MARINA BY APA RESERVE AT BLUECRAB.CA OR CALL 250.480.1999

15

Let’s Catch Up!

Fatso Spreads Itself Thicker E AT FAT S O . C O M

The Victoria company adds new almond and seed butters to its popular peanut butter line.

THE CREAMY, YET SLIGHTLY GRITTY texture struck me first, dripping like liquid gold from my grandmother’s sterling silver spoon. The flavour bloomed second, deep, nutty, with a hit of maple, bright at the back of my mouth. The new Maple Almond and Seed Butter from Fatso has an entirely new flavour profile and consistency, welcoming a broader audience to their already well-established fan following.

One of the challenges in creating a reasonably affordable line—no palm oil, no GMOs, no sugar, kosher, certified vegan non-peanut butters—is almonds.

They are expensive and not super for the environment, but they pack a wealth of nutrition. It takes about 3.5 litres of water to grow one almond; it takes roughly .5 of a litre to produce one peanut. Jill experimented with various seeds and found sunflower and pumpkin seeds worked well with the almonds and Fatso’s signature proprietary fat blend. These butters were created with PWDPP (People Who Do Not Prefer Peanuts; *Note: I am not making this up. It’s on their website.) in mind, but also to explore new flavours and nourish more people.

Fatso is today’s cilantro—it’s polarizing. I’ve found myself in several conversation/debates about which flavour reigns and which one is “hell nope.”

The Crunchy Salted Caramel peanut butter from their first line is my sweet treat go-to by the large spoonful. I approached tasting the new Salted Caramel Almond and Seed Butter with trepidation. It couldn’t be as good as my fave. The consistency was thicker than the maple, and it had more texture. The caramel showed up with a deep, toasted sweetness and a savoury anchor. It’s delicious— and though they share a common natural flavour, the almond and seed version is savoury-sweet versus “heavenly bejesus-sweet,” more like a third cousin once removed than a sweet sister.

JACQUELINE DOWNEY

Fatso's new nut but ters— Maple Almond , Salted Caramel, and Classic.

16 MAY/JUNE 2021

I did not expect to like the Classic (the peanut version is my “hell nope”), even though I learned from the Salted Caramel that my take on the peanut butter flavours didn’t have any bearing on the almond and seed butters. The texture was rich and lush with a hearty mouthfeel, and then I experienced the shredded coconut. Damn. Part of my brain went “Sit you down in this fine flavour,” another squealed, “Make a

JACQUELINE DOWNEY

The award-winning, nutrient-diverse Fatso “performance” peanut butter, created by founder and CEO Jill Van Gyn, blew up when it launched in 2016.

Their peanut butter, embedded in many childhood collective memories, was reimagined as a heavy-hitting health food with a price point set intentionally for accessibility. It’s now a household mainstay for thousands. This year, Fatso launched a line of almond and seed butters with three flavours, Maple, Salted Caramel, and Classic.

Fatso founder and CEO Jill Van Gyn satay! Spread on hot bagels! Drip onto gelato! Smear it on celery!”

Affordability is paramount in Fatso’s ethos. Jill Van Gyn is deeply rooted in academia, social justice, and food security. “Look at the politics of expensive food,” she says. “When you think of food as a human right, there is a pervasive notion that marginalized people don’t deserve good, healthy food. That’s BS. We all deserve good food; we all deserve to enjoy flavour.” During the pandemic last year, Fatso became ad hoc food security, donating more than $200,000 in cash and product, especially to the smaller non-profits often missed, like St. Vincent de Paul and Peers Victoria. “It’s not just about subsistence living; that should never be the goal,” she asserts.

Supporting non-profits is one piece of the puzzle. Leveraging your audience to educate and raise awareness is another. Fatso is an ongoing supporter of Seagirl Abuson Lwanga (a.k.a. Seagirl) and Peers Victoria. Seagirl was a refugee from Northern Uganda, where being queer is punishable by death. Non-binary, trans model, fundraising and refugee advocate, dancer, performer, and human rights activist, Seagirl supports LGTBQ refugees and communities in Africa. At twenty, she arrived in Victoria. Learn more about her at @SeagirlAbuson on Instagram.

Fatso is also an active supporter (Jill is a board member) at Peers Victoria, run for and by sex workers. All profit from Fatso apparel goes directly to Peers (https://eatfatso.com/pages/peers-and-fatso). Jill also launched a microgrant program for current and former sex workers.

Back to the butters. Jill shared that she eats Fatso daily. She freaking loves it.

Uncertain of her favourite, one middle-of-the-night she wandered to the kitchen bleary-eyed and unwittingly grabbed for the Classic Almond and Seed Butter out of the whole line—the coconut’s a thing, you should try it. The almond and seed butters are slightly more expensive than the peanut because of the ingredients, but with sunflowers and pumpkin seeds, it can stay around $15 versus $20, which Jill noted is just not realistic for most people. Fatso is for most people, except Remy, her toddler. He can’t stand any of the butters. Detests them. “So if you see me buying Jiffy or Skippy at the store, don’t judge,” she says with a grin.

GILLIE EASDON

Picot’s Community Cookbook 2.0

PICOTCOLLECTIVE.COM

Cellar, photographer Rebecca Wellman, Amanda and Penny Chan from Abeego, Tarn Tayanunth from Dumpling Drop, writer (ahem) Adrien Sala, Peter Wood from Bear & Joey, and quite a few more.

The first cookbook, which came out in the midst of the pandemic last year, was so popular the creators have published a second volume.

For anyone who isn’t super familiar with the theme of hygge, it’s a Danish term that loosely covers the idea of something being cozy, charming, or special. The recipes are meant to be comforting, with no specific genre in mind. Instead, the new Picot Community Cookbook contains aspects of multiple cuisines, from braised leeks with cream and vermouth or Vietnamese summer rolls as starters, to roasted chicken bone broth, perogies, slow meatballs, hot and spicy vegan Brit t Buntain (L) and Kare Gnat (R) mac ‘n’ cheese, red wine braised chicken, and khichdi, a South Asian dish made of rice and lentils—as well as some great desserts too.

“This time around, the proceeds are being donated to the Island Kids Cancer Association,” explained Buntain. “And the subtle theme of the book is inspired by hygge; recipes contributed have been ones that have brought comfort and coziness to their families and homes.”

Buntain and Gnat chose the Island Kids Cancer Association (IKCA) for its work with several service providers from across Vancouver Island, such as registered counsellors, psychologists, music therapists, play therapists, and a creative writing therapist. This is combined with knowledge of how to navigate a diagnosis of childhood cancer, along with a deep understanding of the medical system and processes, treatments and avenues of care.

Twenty dollars from every purchase goes to IKCA, with the rest going toward publication costs. A great way to warm your heart and home. ADRIEN SALA Picot Community Cookbook Volume 2 $40 (with all proceeds going to Island Kids Cancer Association)

“Creating a cookbook has been a little dream of mine for a long time,” says Buntain.

“I am certainly not qualified to write a cookbook for any dietary recommendations, but I do love food, I absolutely love to cook, and over the years it has been a necessary tool for me to cultivate a greater sense of calm while supporting my health.”

Contributors shared their recipes and photos pro-bono, giving their time and thoughts on coziness to help create something that captures a range of interests while supporting the cancer association. This second volume of the cookbook, which is published in softcover, has a total of 30 recipes over about 70 pages with amazing photography throughout. Contributors vary from interior designers and baristas to folks that EAT Magazine readers would recognize like Adam and Daisy Orser from the Root

IMAGES COURTESY OF PICOT COMMUNITY COOKBOOK

Vietnamese Summer Rolls

Braised Leeks in Cream and Vermouth 17

D.LINDENLAUB PHOTOGRAPHY

JACQUELINE DOWNEY

THOSE LUCKY ENOUGH TO get their hands on the first edition of the Picot Collective’s Community Cookbook will know it was a thoughtful collection of personal recipes from local creatives and business owners. Picot Collective is an independent local business that sells its own line of honey-tobacco-scented products, including candles, roll-ons, bath soaks, and more, primarily through its online shop. In the midst of Covid-19, its founder Britt Buntain and Registered Holistic Nutritionist Kare Gnat gathered recipes from the Victoria community to create the book, with all of the proceeds going to support organizations that needed a little extra help during the pandemic. Continuing that support, the second is set to release in May and will be available on the Picot website or at select local businesses (see website for details).

Masterclass R ECIPE + T E X T

Denise Marchessault S T Y L ING + PHO T OGR A PH Y

Deb Garlick

The Skinny on Halibut This heart-healthy fish is delicate in flavour, firm in texture, loaded with nutrients—and in season right now.

18 MAY/JUNE 2021

I

f you’ve packed on a few pounds during the pandemic, you’re in good company. In a survey conducted last fall, nearly one-third of Canadians polled said they’d gained weight during the lockdown.

For those watching their waistlines (and ditching the sourdough), this lean halibut recipe only tastes indulgent. The fish is steamed and paired with a vibrant sauce made of fresh ginger, sweet mango, and jalapeño peppers. Heart-healthy halibut is lowcarb, low-fat, packed with nutrients—and in season!

You’ve likely seen images of grinning fishermen/ women in Port Renfrew straining to hold up the distinctive, white-bellied fish for a photo op. If you’re not an angler and only accustomed to the pristine steaks and fillets found in the seafood aisle, you might not know that halibut are one of the world’s largest flat fish, with some exceeding 400 pounds (although the average weigh is about 30 pounds). Hauling up large halibut from the ocean floor can be a workout, an experience some anglers describe as reeling in a barn door or a sheet of plywood.

Whether you've reeled your halibut from the Pacific or picked it up from your local grocer, its firm texture adapts well to most cooking techniques.

In this simple recipe, halibut is lightly seasoned, wrapped in foil, and baked in a hot oven. This steams the halibut, creating the most succulent fish imaginable—without any additional fat. The key to cooking fish is to remove it from the oven before it’s completely done because the residual heat continues to cook it. (You can always toss it back into the oven if needed, but it’s impossible to rescue overcooked fish.)

The refreshing sweet-tart sauce combines fragrant mango with jalapeño pepper, ginger, lime, and fresh cilantro. If you’re in the “I-hate-cilantro” camp, use parsley instead. (While I love cilantro’s earthy, citrusy notes, studies show nearly 20 percent of the population is genetically inclined to perceive soapy flavours in the herb.) I opt for sweet Ataulfo mangos in this recipe because they don’t have the stringy fibres found in other varieties. Mangos are lovely paired with fish but, because they contain an enzyme that acts as a natural tenderizer, they change the texture of your fish over time. (I once made the mistake of steaming my fish with the mango sauce only to discover the texture reduced to mush.) All to say, once the cooked fish is slathered with the vibrant sauce, enjoy it straight away.

There’s no better time to treat yourself. And with this lean recipe, you can indulge in guilt-free seconds.

*Peppers vary in heat; adjust the amount accordingly.

Line a shallow ovenproof dish with enough aluminum foil to enclose the fish. The container should be large enough to fit the fish in a single layer.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the fish in the foil-lined dish, season with salt and freshly ground pepper and bring to room temperature. If your fish is thinner than 1 inch thick, season just before baking. (Salt enhances flavour and moisture when applied to a thick portion of fish 15-20 minutes before cooking. A thinner fish is too delicate to pre-season as the salt can render it tough or dry.)

While the fish comes to room temperature, combine the remaining ingredients except the mango in a small food processor or blender, and process until combined.

Add the diced mango (reserve some for the garnish, if desired) and process briefly so the mango pieces are still visible. The sauce should have texture.

If you’re not using a food processor, hand-mix all of your sauce ingredients together in a small bowl.

Transfer the mixture to a small saucepan and simmer on low heat for about five minutes. (The longer the mixture simmers, the tamer the sauce.) You'll need to re-heat the sauce just before serving.

Wrap the seasoned fish tightly in foil and bake in a preheated oven 8-12 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish.

Cilantro, garlic, ginger and jalapeño peppers make for a quick and zesty sauce

Steamed Halibut with Mango and Ginger Sauce

Serves 2-4.

This recipe works well with cod, too.

Halibut is available in steaks, as pictured, or fillets

1 r ipe Ataulfo mango, peeled and diced (finely chopped if not using a food processor, but reserve a few diced pieces for garnish if desired)

1 pound halibut steaks or fillets (if using fillets, remove the skin) Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 cup fresh cilantro, roughly chopped (finely chopped if not using a food processor) 1 tsp finely minced garlic, about 1 clove 1 jalapeño pepper,* seeded and finely chopped 1 Tbsp fresh ginger, about 1-inch chunk, peeled and finely chopped or finely grated with a microplane grater 2 Tbsp lime juice, about 1 lime 2 Tbsp soy sauce 1 Tbsp fish sauce (Golden Boy is my go-to brand)

Test the fish after 8 minutes; it should be nearly opaque in the centre and bounce back when you press the surface with your finger (rather than sink in and retain a dent.). If you've opted for a halibut steak, as pictured, the fish should cling to the bone but not so much that it's impossible to separate. When tested with a knife, the fish should hold together, rather than separate into flakes.

The residual heat continues to cook the fish out of the oven, so if it’s slightly underdone, it should be perfectly cooked by the time it gets to the table.

Transfer the fish to heated plates and top with the rewarmed sauce. Garnish with a few pieces of diced mango, if desired. Serve immediately.

Did you know halibut bones make the most delicate yet flavourful stock imaginable? Ask your fish department to set aside the bones and collars and cut them into manageable chunks. (They’re too unwieldy to chop with a chef ’s knife.) Stock is easy to make, freezes beautifully, and is handy for fish-based soups and sauces.

Find Denise's recipe for Halibut Stock on eatmagazine.ca 19

No Passport Required!

A BC Staycation to the South Okanagan W OR D S

PHO T OGR A PH Y

Shelora Sheldan

Bill Blair

The Okanagan is the best backyard anyone could hope for, with snapshots of unparallelled beauty. Its rivers, lakes, beaches, and provincial parks define the area as much as its bounty of orchards and wineries. Complete with an insider’s road map to adventure, here’s a spirited invitation to eat, drink, and play while exploring the South Okanagan.

Before You Go: The new normal at most wineries is booked appointments, allowing you and your bubble—up to six people—a personalized and safe wine tasting experience. Each winery has its own system of various fees, so check websites and make a plan, Stan.

Hotels and resorts book up fast. Plan accordingly.

What to Bring: Masks and sanitizer are a given, a hat and sunscreen are wise, but top marks for bringing a cooler.

Ayse and Mike Barluk of the modern Turkish Elma Restaurant on the Lakeshore, Penticton 20 MAY/JUNE 2021

App Alert: The Wines of BC Explorer App has all the deets.

• KELOWNA • Touted as one of the fastest growing cities in BC, Kelowna is bustling so make your way out of the traffic mayhem to the lakeshore, where great (big) wineries boast spectacular views.

Ryan and Jen Hawk of Wayne & Freda, Penticton, get cof fee right. a sophisticated, organic farm-to-table menu paired with a storied wine list.

Sweet Finish Dig in to exquisite French pastries, mini cakes, truffles, and bean-to-bar treats at Karat Chocolate in the downtown core.

Drink Mission Hill Winery has the loftiest setting, with palatial manicured grounds and sculpture to take in, along with wines and a well-curated gift • PEACHLAND • shop for shopping therapy. The Old Vines restaurant Heading south on Highway 97, the lake vistas widen at Quail’s Gate Winery wins for its patio setting and beaches beckon. Consider a beach stop and overlooking the vineyards, and Mt. Boucherie Estate meander along the restful boardwalk setting.

Winery boasts a gorgeous new wine experience centre with a meat-and-charcuterie-focused eatery.

Wild Card An ambitious reno gives new life to the longFor the Bavarian feast you never knew you needed, established Cedar Creek Winery with its lakeview check out Gasthaus on the Lake. Take in the stone setting. Ex-Vancouver chef Neil Taylor cooks up and wood kitsch-tastic interior festooned with BC and Mediterranean flavours at Home Block, the man-tiques, and dig in to an winery’s gorgeous new oom-pah-pah of pork hocks, restaurant. ...lake vistas widen and the schnitzel, bratwurst, and sauerkraut.

Eat For chow in the city, beach beckons... try award-winning chef • SUMMERLAND • Brian Skinner’s Frankie Uncover another gem of the Okanagan with We Salute You for organic and creative vegan fare, or Summerland’s Bottleneck Drive, leading you through Rustic Reel Brewing for craft quaffs and hearty eats. sweeping vineyards and lush orchards to 15 wineries, Two downtown darlings of the Food Network are four cideries, and a distillery.

Salt & Brick, for its ever-changing tapas-style menu, Drink and Sunny’s A Modern Diner, where hearty breakfast Don’t miss Lightning Rock where winemaker Jordan fare kickstarts the day with Chicken Meets Waffles Kubek showcases her natural wines from bubbly to or Chicks on a Raft (scrambled eggs on a peanut pet-nat (pétillant-naturel) rosé. Or visit Alchemist, butter toasted French loaf, bacon lardons, and hash the new micro-distillery crafting spirits from browns). Waterfront Wines continues its reign with

Okanagan apples, including an awarded absinthe. In the town’s centre, find Breakaway Brewing for craft brews and tacos.

Play Book a 90-minute tour aboard the exquisitely restored 1912 steam locomotive along the only preserved section of the historic KVR railway. Sit back in the vintage passenger coach and enjoy views of lush orchards and vineyards as well as the spectacular lake view from Trout Creek Bridge, 238 feet above the canyon floor. kettlevalleyrail.org • PENTICTON • Poised between Okanagan and Skaka Lakes, the city provides breathtaking vistas at every turn.

Surrounded by wineries, cideries, breweries, distilleries, orchardists, farmers, and other artisans of gastronomy, this city, like Kelowna, is growing fast. Those seeking a lifestyle revamp from the hectic and unaffordable pace of Vancouver and the Island, are injecting Penticton and its neighbour, Naramata, with tasty new ventures.

Drink Naramata Bench With more than 29 wineries, along with cideries and distilleries dotting the landscape and a new subappellation designation in 2019, the “Bench” makes a great weekend exploration. Discover the many small, independent wineries, such as JoieFarm, Foxtrot, and Roche, and the many “low interventionists” such as Bella, for their exceptional bubbles and farm tours.

Mix things up at Lock & Worth Winery, which shares a tasting room with the artisanal cheesemakers at Poplar Grove Cheese.

On the south side of the city, don’t miss Painted Rock for its exceptional reds and rosés served in a slick wine tasting room with views of Skaha Lake and Skaha Bluffs.

Wild Card Change out the grapes for hops with seven Penticton craft breweries, four within walking distance in the downtown core. Slackwater and Neighbourhood Brewing provide lots of outdoor seating with hearty comfort food menus, the Cannery Brewing is cozy with board games and legendary nachos, and newly relocated Highway 97 Brewing Co. (across the street) adds an extra layer of craft perfection. bcaletrail.ca Eat Steps from downtown and the beach, the buzz starts early at Wayne & Freda. Fuel up with exceptional

coffee beverages, breakfast sandwiches, and healthy bowls, plus a great selection of to-go offerings for impromptu beach picnics, including local canned wine.

For Napoletana pizza done right, check out Tratto Pizzeria for classic margheritas and signature ‘za like the Bee Sting finished with local honey.

What better way to watch the sun set on the beach than sitting in a modern room enjoying elevated Turkish fare and craft cocktails at Elma.

• OK FALLS • From Penticton, head south via picturesque Lakeside and Eastside roads along Skaha Lake to Okanagan Falls. Liquidity Winery, Meyer, Wild Goose, Noble Ridge, and Blue Mountain Winery, the latter celebrated for its Gold Label Brut, all offer wine tastings.

Discover the many small, independent wineries, and the many “low

Pit Stop Get your licks in at the iconic Tickleberry’s with more than 70 different flavours of ice cream, including house-made maple-bacon and a vegan lemon-ginger, all scooped up into a freshly made waffle cone.

And enjoy renowned interventionists” Joy Road Catering and Bakery’s “cuisine de terroir” at their downtown pop-up (557 Main St.).

Enjoy naturally leavened breads, famous baked • OLIVER/OSOYOOS • goods, and terrific breakfast and lunch items Back onto the 97 past Vaseux Lake, you enter the utilizing organic and local produce. Or book a seat dry, desert-dotted regions of Oliver and Osoyoos. at one of their many alfresco dinners set throughout Surrounded by vineyards, orchards, and mountains, the Okanagan. the area is the warmest in the Okanagan reaching summertime temperatures between 35º and 38ºC. Insider’s Tip Hat. Check. Sunscreen. Check.

Don’t miss the Saturday Penticton Farmers’ Market, an award-winning come-rain-come-shine downtown public market, where organic farmers and makers gather to sell organic produce, fruit, and provisions.

Insiders arrive early (8:30 a.m. start).

Drink Fourth-generation Covert Farms combines organic farming, vineyard, and winery with a fun-for-thewhole-family experience, including kid-approvedmini

Play Rent a bike or hike along the KVR Trail, the original path of the historic Kettle Valley Railway that passes through many vineyards on the Bench. For a more structured adventure, book one of the many excursions offered through Hoodoo Adventures.

Their Velo Vino Cycle Tour incorporates a cycle through vineyards and orchards followed by a vineyard-set light picnic and a coach-driven wine tour to select wineries, while their Kayak Wine & Cheese trades out the bike for a kayak to view the hoodoo-lined Naramata Bench, followed by a picnic and winery tour.

• NARAMATA • The focal point of this laid-back community is the newly refurbished Naramata Inn—touted as a restaurant with rooms. Spearheaded by celebrated chef and Ocean Wise advocate Ned Bell, the restaurant menu is in keeping with the community’s Cittaslow designation, with local ingredients as its muse. naramatainn.com

Chef Ned Bell at the newly reimagined Naramata Inn 21

C I B C WO O D G U N DY B LU E H E R O N A DV I S O RY G R O U P

SUSTAINABLE, ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY INVESTMENT SOLUTIONS

farm tours and juice tastings alongside adult wine offerings. Consistent heat produces some powerful reds and full-flavoured whites from the area’s 40 wineries, especially from the Black Sage and Golden Mile Benches. Showy Phantom Creek Estate is grand in scale with sculpture and a circular barrel tasting room. CheckMate heralds chardonnay with large formats and curated sets.

Intersection produces smaller lots and terroir-focussed merlots, while Le Vieux Pin celebrates traditional French winemaking with bold New World character.

Eat Reserve a lofty patio seat at Miradoro at Tinhorn Creek Winery where chef Jeff Van Geest cooks up modern wine country cuisine drawing inspiration from the Mediterranean. Located in a former Oliver church, discover the recently opened Popolo, a smart and casual eatery for hearty house-made pasta, appetizers, gelato, and local wines by the glass.

The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry, the restaurant at Spirit Ridge resort and winery, brings the region’s indigenous foods to the table crafted through a modern lens by chef Murray McDonald. And in Osoyoos, pick up a sourdough baguette, pain au chocolat, cinnamon buns, and other yeasty treats at Lake Village Bakery.

Insider’s Tip For campers and DIY foodies, stock up at Oliver Eats for the best in artisan cheese, baked goods, dinners-to-go, as well as local, Spanish, and Italian provisions, before visiting next-door Black Sage Butcher for local and naturally raised meats, including a wonderful selection of pre-marinated meaty skewers ready for the barbecue. Psst! The parking lot food truck, Vagabond, makes a killer Nashville Hot Chicken sandwich.

SERVED FRESH RIGHT HERE ON VANCOUVER ISLAND. Want to make a difference and still meet your financial goals? Let us show you how using proactive Environmental, Social and Corporate Governance (ESG) standards can do just that. We’ve been doing it for years. Right here in Victoria.

Contact us today to learn how we help create more sustainable portfolios.

www.blueherongroup.ca 250 361-2284 blueheronadvisorygroup@cibc.ca Neil Chappell and Graham Isenegger are Investment Advisors and Portfolio Managers with the Blue Heron Advisory Group of CIBC Wood Gundy in Victoria BC. CIBC Wood Gundy is a division of CIBC World Markets Inc., a subsidiary of CIBC and a Member of the Canadian Investor Protection Fund and Investment Industry Regulatory Organization of Canada. CIBC Private Wealth Management consists of services provided by CIBC and certain of its subsidiaries, including CIBC Wood Gundy, a division of CIBC World Markets Inc. “CIBC Private Wealth Management” is a registered trademark of CIBC, used under license. “Wood Gundy” is a registered trademark of CIBC World Markets Inc. If you are currently a CIBC Wood Gundy client, please contact your Investment Advisor. Past performance may not be repeated and is not indicative of future results.

22 MAY/JUNE 2021

Wild Card Immerse yourself in South Okanagan food and wine culture with a bespoke dinner at Backyard Farm.

Talented chef, owner, and farmer Chris Van Hooydonk provides delicious respite in his private dining room set on his two-acre organic farm and orchard. Expect local, organic, seasonal, and sustainable—from vegetables to meat to seafood—or check his website’s events page for public al fresco dinners held at surrounding wineries.

Outdoor dining at its best The ideal location for stunning views, flavourful food, curated cocktails and unforgettable experiences.

Currently ranked one of Canada’s 50 Best Bars, let the Q Veranda be your go-to patio spot.

Play Immerse yourself in the desert at the Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre with a self-guided tour through a state-of-the-art interpretive centre. Learn about desert ecology, terroir, habitat restoration, and conservation of endangered ecosystems with both indoor and outdoor displays.

Bot tles of chilled Brut at Joie Farm Winer y on Naramata Bench

Ha nd m a d e E thical L o cal Tra d it io nal

CURED AND SMOKED MEATS 2 0 3 2 O A K B AY A V E N U E , V I C T O R I A

250.590.PORK

THEWHO L E B E AST. C A C U R E D @T H EWHOLEBEAS T.CA

visit fairmont-empress.com for hours and reservations

23

t a E ! y Eat Away a w A W OR D S

Cinda Chavich

H

ave you been yearning for an escape from the humdrum of daily dining?

You may not be ready to fly off to exotic destinations just yet, but you can spice up your meals with the faraway flavours of locally made seasonings and condiments. Stay home, stay safe, and stay sated!

MAKE IT MEXICAN For south-of-the-border flavours think about the salsas and spices from Adriana’s Whole Enchilada.

You can go directly to the deli in Saanich for Adriana Ramirez’s fresh salsa rustica, salsa verde, chipotle aioli, and poblano pesto. Or you can head to the cooler sections of several local grocers. Look for her Magic Powder, too—a spice mix Ramirez recommends for dusting over roasted yam fries, seasoning chili, or spicing up almost anything else.

You can also make your meals more Mexican with the Taco Night spice blend and mole sauce from Ixim Foods, available through the online marketplace Cowichan Cow-op (cow-op.ca) or at www.ixim.ca.

Michelle Paez, who also runs the Duncan-based 24 MAY/JUNE 2021

Taco Revolution food truck with partner PJ Frayne, says their mole is made from scratch “using artisanal techniques learned in San Pedro Atocpan, Mexico.”

The tasty taco spice, made with 14 different herbs and spices, starts with ancho, chipotle, and guajillo chilies, a Mexican trilogy of sweet heat.

JUMP TO JAPANESE To add authentic Japanese flavour to your meals, look for the Musubi-ya ginger sauce and sesame sauce from Tamae Yoshizawa at the Moss Street Market.

Using fresh, organic ingredients, the ginger sauce is designed as a salad dressing or marinade, while the sesame sauce is traditionally served with steak for dipping.

“You can also try pan-frying tofu or steaming vegetables, then pouring the sesame sauce over it,” Yoshizawa says.

Chef Carlos Chan, a self-described serial restaurateur, says he learned how to make this classic Japanese sauce at one of his early restaurant jobs. Now his Stubborn Chef Ginger Dressing is

PHOTO: ISTOCK.COM/ALEX RATHS

TRAVEL FAR WITHOUT LEAVING YOUR OWN KITCHEN.

his biggest seller (available at his Shelbourne Street take-out spot and city supermarkets). He also makes a sweet sesame and soy steak sauce and Japanesestyle kimchi, flavoured with vinegar, bonito and sesame oil.

Chan says the ginger and sweet onion dressing is designed for salads—he recommends it with avocado and fruit salads—but also uses it to finish sautéed shogayaki pork for an instant hit of gingery flavour.

CARIBBEAN CRUISING There may be no Caribbean ports of call in the near future, but a jar of the House of Boateng jerk seasonings will take you, and your grilled chicken, to sunny climes. A combination of hot chili peppers, green onions, allspice, ginger, thyme, and other spices, jerk seasoning is a Jamaican tradition, and Chef Castro Boateng says his version is the real deal.

“This recipe was given to me by my Jamaican friend’s mom, named Miss Mckenzie,” he says. “She used to say: ‘The most important thing about jerk is not just the heat but the depth of flavours—all the ingredients should be able to move to a reggae beat!’”

Boateng’s jerk paste will definitely get your grilled meats to jump up. Try it to marinate chicken, pork, tofu, and even cauliflower.

Boateng also adds it to mayo for a spicy aioli, uses it in the HOB Caesar cocktail, and reveals it’s the secret ingredient in the HOB Jerkup BBQ sauce. One love!

PASSAGE TO INDIA

PHOTO: ISTOCK.COM/ALEX RATHS

eet akes -

s cado d our.

k n, ers,

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he eat!’”

Miriam Nichols and her mother Masooma Anvarali create the family’s favourite curry powder—a unique recipe influenced by their Indian, Pakistani, and East African roots— starting with whole, organic spices, nuts, and seeds that are roasted, ground, and packaged by hand in Victoria. The mild curry powder includes ground peanuts, chickpeas, sesame seeds, rice, and almonds, the nuts helping to thicken a favourite coconut milk curry recipe on their website. “It’s the flavour of good, homecooked food,” says Nichols, “the stuff we want to eat at home.”

SOUTH AMERICAN SAUCE Want something green and spicy to take your grilled meats and fish to Argentina and points south? Try a jar of Primaverde from chefs David Mincey and Paige Robinson at Circle Canning.

This tasty combination of cilantro, parsley, and spices is their own take on chimichurri sauce, a kind of South American pesto with a kick of chilies and a backbone of acidity. It’s classic to spoon over steak but perfect to slather on almost any grilled meat, paint over pieces of toasted baguette, stir into a pot of boiled rice, or toss with steamed prawns. They suggest using their Primaverde sauce on your breakfast eggs and roast potatoes, or mixing it with mango for a sandwich spread. Find them at the Moss Street Market or online at localine.ca/circle-canning.

C O N T I N U E D O N T H E N E X T PAG E

THE SPICE SUTRA The gift of India’s freshest ingredients in a box.

W OR D S

Cait Irwin & Elizabeth Monk A tiny little gift box arrives in the mail. It has an enticing aroma. Inside are little sachets of freshground spices—really, really fresh—and jewel-toned recipe cards for a masala, a korma, and a vindaloo.

These little kits are the brainchild of Sutra Spices.

Owners Pari and Paul Gill were dismayed by how stale spices coming from India to Canada could be, stuck in transit and warehouses for sometimes more than a year. At the same time, Covid started, and home cooks got more interested in cultural explorations. And so they sourced spices directly from the farm of Pari’s sister in India, started grinding them at their industrial kitchen in Duncan where they were already making Sutra Sauces, and the new business was born.

We will confess: we have been slow about learning Indian cooking, intimidated by having to purchase long lists of spices that will then wither and die in our drawers. These fresh-prepared packets make cooking faster. Spices need to be layered three times instead of, perhaps, 12. But the recipes also create some meditative slowness because there is no rushing the step of caramelizing the onions, and the recipe cards even remind us to be patient.

As one example, the Masala kit’s spicing layers start with the Tandoori Rub on your protein. Note - it turned our tofu a fun pink colour! Next, the Turmeric and Cumin packet gets fried until the cumin seeds sizzle. After garlic, ginger, and tomato sauce comes the Sutra Masala Blend. Suddenly, the glorious smell in your house evolves, tantalizing your tastebuds even more. Finally, after the cream, vegetables, and protein are put in, the Fenugreek and Red Chili Powder packets are sprinkled in for the final touch.

well, as the Gills will host a party of six on Zoom as everyone cooks.

The spice gift boxes are $20—we will definitely start giving these out as gifts. To include a host for a party of six costs an extra $20 per person.

Sutra Sauces is the other branch of the business.

These can also come to your door. The Rosée Sauce is a very mild tomato and cream sauce with a whisper of turmeric and garam masala—a good starter sauce for people new to Indian cuisine. And it really is pink, explaining the name! The Coconut Korma sauce coats prawns beautifully. The Butter Chicken Sauce is a revelation, as it is more tomato-forward than we see in a lot of restaurants. The freshness of the tomatoes, or perhaps it is the freshness of a sauce made on Vancouver Island, gives it a bright flavour.

And the red curry Thai Sauce is subtle and versatile, with not so much a kick, as a delicate little flick, of heat. The ingredient of kaffir lime skin is testament to the loving care put into the sauces.

The spice kits can be found online at sutraspices.com.

The sauces can be found at Markets on Yates and Millstream, Peppers, Old Farm Market, and more.

And they can even be delivered to your home. The website sutrasauces.com is a good reference, or they will happily talk to you at 250-813-1011 or sutrawholesale@gmail.com.

JACQUELINE DOWNEY

d deal.

Visit the Moss Street Market and you will find an artisanal spicery called From the Earth and its organic seasoning blends. The range includes the company’s popular curry powder as well as combinations designed specifically for making daal, butter chicken, biryani, kheer (rice pudding), and chai (also available at local, independent grocers and online).

Spotl ight

Part of the joy of using the kits was in the learning.

We didn’t know that turmeric can look like cinnamon bark. Cardamom makes a sound when it pops in the oil. Fenugreek is only for adding once the heat is off. The learning can go deeper as 25

THE

WINE SLUSHY IS BACK!

GRAB YOUR BESTIE and enjoy patio season with Blue Grouse’s most loved cocktail.

RESERVE YOUR TASTING today at: bluegrouse.ca

2182 Lakeside Rd, Duncan @bluegrousewines

OFF TO EGYPT Dukkah is a traditional Egyptian blend of toasted nuts and spices. Baker and entrepreneur Devon Thor discovered dukkah while living in Australia and missed the savoury flavour when she returned to Victoria—hence, the creation of Blue Door Dukkah. It’s made in small batches, with toasted hazelnuts, almonds, sunflower seeds, sesame seeds, and spices like coriander and cumin, then packaged in 100 gram bags. You can buy it from Thor through her Instagram store (@bluedoordukkahco) and at Bull & Co. on Fort Street. Traditionally used for dipping with olive oil and fresh bread, Thor says dukkah is amazing for breakfast, on eggs and avocado toast, with grilled cheese, or to sprinkle over soups, salads, and even popcorn.

PURUVIAN PARTNERS The addictive Green Sauce made at The Root Cellar is another must-have in the pandemic pantry, instantly opening another hemisphere of flavour.

PATIO PERFECT

Plus Small Plates Brunch

Small Plates, Big Views

WEEKENDS

11:30am–3:30pm

Infused with cilantro and jalapeño peppers, and designed to serve alongside their ready-to-grill Peruvian chicken, the creamy Green Sauce makes an awesome dip for tortilla chips, alone or combined with mashed avocado.

The Root Cellar’s Daisy Orser says Green Sauce has become a signature product for the busy green grocer—so popular many customers arrive specifically to buy it.

“The green sauce crushes the Peruvian chicken in sales—it has a life of its own,” she says. “It’s the unstoppable condiment. It pairs well with everything.”

Breakfast 7:00am–11:00am Lunch 11:30am–3:30pm Happy Hour 3:30pm–5:00pm Dinner 5:00pm–9:00pm

Inn at Laurel Point 680 Montreal St aurarestaurant.ca @aurayyj • #EatAtAura

Beyond their grilled chicken, she says it’s wonderful diluted with lime juice and honey on coleslaw, to drizzle over fish tacos and burgers, or marinate salmon. Slather it on grilled corn, she says, and try it with baked or fried potatoes. A sauce that’s known to “convert cilantro haters,” there’s now a vegan version, too.

MEATY MATTERS You can get that Alberta steakhouse experience at home by picking up a prime cut of beef from your local butcher and grilling it to a perfect medium-rare. But don’t skimp on the seasoning.

There are commercial steak spices on the market, but the hometown favourite is the steak spice from the Fireside Grill.

Restaurant owner Tim Petropoulos says his father and uncles honed their steakhouse skills at Hy’s Steakhouse in the 1960s, where the steak spice tradition was born. His modern steak spice blends range from Tuscan to Creole, but the most popular is the Steak and Rib Spice, a rub that includes sweet and salty notes, along with herbs and spices.

Slaters

FIRST CLASS MEAT 1983 LTD.

Get fired up for spring!

250.592.0823 ∙ 2577 Cadboro Bay Road 26 MAY/JUNE 2021

You’ll also find meaty spice combinations, all infused with a hint of wood smoke, from Triple Smoke Foods in Shawnigan Lake. Their Sweet Smokey Heat is a classic barbecue rub with sugar and spice for pork, or there’s Smokey Bird for poultry, Prime Rub and the original Butcher’s Blend. Look for them at local grocers or order direct from their website.

CANES & COATTAILS 1.5 oz (45 mL) Hendricks Gin ½ oz (15 mL) lime juice 1 oz (30 mL) Rhubarb Syrup (recipe follows) 2 dashes celery bitters* 2 oz (60 mL) Fentimans Rose Lemonade

R ECIPE

Nate Caudle

D I S C O V E R

Breathtaking D I N I N G

I N

T H E

S K Y

Rated as having one of the best views in all of Canada, enjoy sweeping views overlooking Finlayson Arm and the Olympic Mountains while dining at Alpina Restaurant. Treat yourself to a world-class culinary experience featuring classic European dishes with a modern West Coast twist.

GLASS - Collins or tall glass METHOD - Shake and strain over ice and top with rose lemonade

dine

GARNISH - Celery stalk with nice leaves still on it, and a cucumber ribbon picked (attached with a toothpick or cocktail pick) on top (celery = cane; cucumber = coattails) Rhubarb Syrup

It’s a culinary experience

500 g frozen rhubarb chunks (cut fresh rhubarb into ½- to 1-inch chunks and freeze or buy — many grocers have this in the frozen fruit section)

SOCIALLY DISTANCED With current trends and smaller gatherings, maybe for one night, or a few nights, you can hang up your apron and join us at Alpina Restaurant. We are open daily from 8am - 8pm (9pm on weekends). Just sit back, soak in the views and allow us to take care of you!

1 L Simple Syrup (combine 500 mL sugar and 500 mL boiling water, stir to dissolve and cool) Place frozen rhubarb chunks in shallow container, cover with the simple syrup, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. The next day, remove mixture from refrigerator; as it thawed, the moisture within the rhubarb should have seeped out into the syrup and dramatically changed it to a beautiful bright pink. Purée the mixture until smooth, then strain liquid through large mesh strainer or cheese cloth. Seal and keep refrigerated for up to 2 weeks. *We used Bittered Sling Cascade Celery from Vessel Liquor Store in Victoria.

Nate Caudle is co-owner of the Nimble Bar Co.

Located only 15 minutes north of Lang ford 600 Ebadora Lane, Malahat, BC | 250.856.0188 | villaeyrie.com @ VillaEyrie JACQUELINE DOWNEY

27

Bowled Ove� Crunchy, creamy, and crispy—a spring salad with substance.

R ECIPE + S T Y L ING + PHO T OGR A PH Y

W

Rebecca Wellman

elcome to salad season. It’s one I look forward to every year. The days lengthen in light and warmth and we no longer need to rely on our food to warm our bodies.

Each part of this salad stands well on its own and can be incorporated into any other dish you desire (try the dressing on grilled veg or the tofu in a grain bowl). Together, though, the combo of smoky, crunchy, green, creamy, and crispy should provide you with a satisfying

28 MAY/JUNE 2021

spring/summer dinner. I’ve also added some hemp hearts (essential fatty acids) and pumpkin seeds (calcium and iron), and there are lots of greens and plenty of protein, too. I’ve adapted a new technique here, brining the tofu. It takes away that blandness that IS tofu, elevating it to a place where even eating it on its own, hot and straight out of the pan, is absolutely delicious.

Smoky White Bean Salad with Tofu Serves 4.

Tofu 3 cups warm water (boiled and cooled a bit) 1 Tbsp salt 1 Tbsp granulated sugar 1 garlic clove smashed 1 strip lemon zest 1 bay leaf 1 package firm tofu Combine water, salt, sugar, garlic, zest and bay leaf in a large bowl. Drain the tofu and cut into 1-inch pieces. Add the tofu to the water, cover with a tea towel and let the tofu soak in the brine for at least 3 hours and up to overnight in the refrigerator.

Dressing 2 inches fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped 2 garlic cloves 3 Tbsp tahini 1 Tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp salt A good grind of black pepper ½ tsp smoked paprika 6 T bsp fresh lemon juice (about 3 lemons) ½ cup light olive oil Up to ¼ cup just boiled water* While the tofu is brining, in a large food processor, blend the ginger and garlic until well chopped. Add the tahini, Dijon, salt, pepper, paprika, lemon juice, and olive oil. Blend until smooth. Add water, a bit at a time, until you’ve reached your desired consistency. *The just boiled water will make the dressing smoother and creamier than using cold water.

Pour the dressing into a clean jar. You will have more than you will need for this recipe, but it will keep in the fridge for up to 5 days.

Beans 1 540 mL can white canellini or white kidney beans 1 Tbsp dressing (above) ½ tsp smoked paprika Pinch salt Freshly ground black pepper Rinse and drain the beans. Stir in the dressing and the paprika and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Cook the Tofu Remove the tofu from the brine and drain well. Discard the aromatics.

Set the tofu in a clean tea towel and gently pat each piece to absorb the excess moisture.

Heat 1 Tbsp olive oil in a large nonstick pan over medium-high heat. Place each piece of tofu in the pan and let it cook, resisting the urge to move it, until it’s browned, about 5 minutes. Flip the pieces and brown all sides, so the tofu is crispy and golden. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper as you go along.

This process should take about 20 minutes.

Turn the heat off and leave the tofu in the pan while you assemble the salad.

Assemble the Salad 8 cups fresh hardy greens such as kale, chard, spinach or romaine, torn into bite-sized pieces ½ cup fresh mint leaves, roughly torn 1 large avocado, sliced ¼ cup thinly sliced green onions 3 Tbsp hemp hearts 3 Tbsp roasted pumpkin seeds In a large bowl, toss the greens and the mint with the white beans. Add the desired amount of dressing and season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide the greens between 4 large plates.

Top the salad with the warm tofu, avocado, green onions, hemp hearts, and pumpkin seeds.

Serve immediately.

29

COFFEE CULTURE How the Pandemic Taught Me to Brew Coffee

WOR DS

Adrian Paradis

I

n the overwhelming list of changes in lifestyle in the past year, my relationship with my morning coffee was surprisingly among them.

While I’ve always enjoyed my coffee, I’ve often seen it as a means to an end.

Injecting coffee into my body was just a part of the necessary morning routine, and often it was on the go or in a takeout cup. Now making coffee at home nearly every morning for over a year has not only made me appreciate the ritual, it has led me to experiment with brew methods, get nerdy about grind size, and obsess over extraction times.

Michael Oughtred - Craft Coffee Canada/Oughtred Coffee, CEO/Partner

At-Home Brew Method: Changes daily

Current Beans: Whatever is in season

PHOTO: ISTOCK.COM/ XESAI

Rob Kettner - Hey Happy, Owner At-Home Brew Method: Bona Vita 6-cup – Electric Brewer Current Beans: Be Still Cody

Kettner says that if he’s brewing coffee for himself and his wife on the weekend, they will keep it very simple with a Bona Vita 6-cup electric brewer and a Baratza Encore grinder. “I used to get into the crazy methods and hand grinders to try and get café-quality coffee at home, which everyone can do, but now I get that with simpler tools,” says Kettner. “I try not to get too complicated at home. I just want a nice cup of coffee.”

Jesse Owens - Hide and Seek Coffee, Owner At-Home Brew Method: Kalita Wave – Pour Over Current Beans: Onyx Coffee Lab Roasters

“I have all the brew methods at home because I want to see if I’ll retail them or not,” says Owens, “but my go-to is the Kalita Wave.” This pour-over manual brewer has a flat bottom so it’s a little different from the Hario V60, but it has a similar vibe as you’re still manually brewing.

30 MAY/JUNE 2021

Gareth Edwards - Café Fantastico, General Manager At-Home Brew Method: Arca X-Tract Brew – Immersion Brewer Current Beans: Fantastico, Peru Finca Tasta

Edwards says at home he will either brew a single-cup pour over or use an Arca X-Tract immersion brewer. The glass brewer looks similar to a teapot and is not too dissimilar from a French press; however, when you’re done brewing, instead of plunging your grounds down to the bottom—which can result in sediment in the cup—you lift the double-screen right out. The resulting coffee is a lot cleaner, has more brewed clarity, and is much more forgiving in terms of over-extraction. “At the end of the day, coffee brewing is all very subjective,” says Edwards. “You can have the best guides in the world in terms of getting the best extraction, but it’s also guided by what you personally enjoy.”

With so much uncertainty in the world, my morning coffee has become a grounding ritual. I started my journey haphazardly brewing a French press before I branched out into the elegantly shaped Chemex. After a brief stint with a Moka Pot—which yielded mixed results—I switched to a Hario V60. Taking a keener interest in brewing methods and bean buying habits allowed me to support some of my favourite local cafés and got me thinking, how do those who have access to all the tools like to brew at home?

Oughtred says coffee changes daily for him. “It really depends. Sometimes I want a really bold, heavy-body chocolate coffee so I’ll find something with more body and chose a method like the French press. Other times I want something more sweet and delicate, so I’ll choose a pour-over method and a coffee from Ethiopia.” For Oughtred, freshness is the thing he chases the most. When looking for beans, he will follow the harvest calendar and brew fresh lots of coffee throughout the year.

Ben Cram - Fernwood Coffee, Owner At-Home Brew Method: Espro – Press Current Beans: Fernwood, Caio Perrera – Fazenda Serrado

Cram says lately he has been using the Espro press as his go-to. It looks like a regular French press, except the filter is in the shape of a cup. There is a flange that a second cup fits over top, making two different grades of mesh that are much finer than a regular French press.

“When you plunge, you get the same benefits of a French press because it’s still a metal screen filter; screens allow oils through while paper does not,” says Cram.

“A common problem with the French press is the silt – sometimes called false body—where your ‘body’ is actually particulate and not actual viscosity.”

Shane Devereaux - Habit Coffee/Sherwood Coffee and Bar, Owner At-Home Brew Method: Hario V60 – Pour Over Current Beans: Bows and Arrows, Jose Uribe Lasso

Devereaux says both Sherwood and Habit are fans of the Fetco batch brew method, but at home he uses the red plastic Hario V60. “I like the pour over because if you have the basic methodology and a couple tools, you can make a great cup of coffee.” One unique step Devereaux takes is to grind all his coffee for the week at his café. “We have a $5,000 grinder here,” he says. “I would rather the consistency of a really well-ground coffee over a really fresh coffee that has a lot of variance in grind size.”

ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK.COM/ DARIA USTIUGOVA

GET A TASTE OF THE ISLAND. 31