Giuliano Zarantonello & Fabio Perselli
BIKE &
BARGE
Cookbook WATERWAYS OF VENICE SLOW FOOD, SLOW TRAVEL ITALIAN ST YLE
girolibero easy cycling holidays
Credits Recipes – Giuliano Zarantonello Texts and Translations – Fabio Perselli Graphic Design – no.parking comunicazione Photography – Matteo Castagna (recipes), Gessica Padoan (cover photo and others), Flavio Bianchedi, Diego Caldieraro, Alberto Ferrero, Riccardo Mantovani, Fabio Perselli, Oswald Stimpfl. Frescoes by G D Tiepolo (pp. 31, 50) courtesy of Villa Valmarana ai Nani, Vicenza – villavalmarana.com All other photos by Girolibero and no.parking Production Coordinator – Elena Riatti, Girolibero Cooks/Crew Alberto Reghellin Caterina Minosso Enrico Belloni Erika Ferrando Esther Fontanella Federica (Freddy) Stella Irene Vigolo Sara Visentin Samuele Barbanani Silvia Campesato Silvia Costantini Stefania Sorbara Vera Curti Skippers Riccardo Tamani Filippo Bonafè Conny van Moergastel Giovanni Penzo Luciano Penzo Tullio Mozzini André Boon © girolibero.it - easy cycling holidays First published 2017 Printed in Italy ISBN 978-88-85606-00-5
Giuliano Zarantonello & Fabio Perselli
BIKE &
BARGE
Cookbook WATERWAYS OF VENICE SLOW FOOD, SLOW TRAVEL ITALIAN ST YLE
girolibero easy cycling holidays
Kitchen crew on the Po
more about Giroliber o see page 110 4
WELCOME ABOARD! Benvenuti a bordo! Like the River Po and its infinite bends, the story of Girolibero and our two barges has seen many twists and turns since it began. It all started in 1998 with 24 bikes and 24 locks, plus a trailer on loan from a theatre group. We now have over 1,500 bikes exploring the world and 40-plus staff in our engine room to make it all come together (see p. 110).
Come il Po coi suoi tornanti, la storia di Girolibero e delle nostre barche ha preso infinite svolte da quando iniziarono i nostri tour. L’avventura cominciò nel 1998 con l’acquisto di 24 bici e 24 lucchetti, oltre al prestito di un carrello da un gruppo teatrale. Le bici sono ora oltre 1.500 e più di 40 persone lavorano per organizzare al meglio le vostre vacanze (vedi p.110).
But this book isn’t about numbers or our history – it’s about something else that we all love: the food! When we developed our bike & barge tours, we knew that our guests would appreciate authentic Italian cuisine – especially those classic dishes from our own Veneto, such as risotto, pasta e fagioli and tiramisù, all prepared with fresh, seasonal produce and by local cooks. And we also know that cycling makes us hungry. But the enthusiasm we have met for our food has been beyond all expectation: ‘When are you going to produce a cookbook?’ is a question we hear quite regularly from our travellers on board the Ave Maria and Vita Pugna.
Questo libro non si occupa di numeri o di storia – ma di qualcosa che tutti adoriamo: la buona cucina! Con l’avvio del nostro programma bici & barca sapevamo, certo, che i nostri ospiti avrebbero apprezzato la cucina DOC italiana e soprattutto veneta – dai risotti ai bigoli, dalla pasta e fasoi al tiramisù, creati sempre con ingredienti di stagione e da cuochi nostrani. E sappiamo anche che pedalando viene fame. Però mai ci saremmo aspettati un tale entusiasmo per le nostre pietanze: ‘Quand’è che pubblicate un ricettario?’ è una domanda che puntualmente ci rivolgono i nostri avventurieri a bordo dell’Ave Maria e della Vita Pugna.
Well, here it is.
Ebbene: eccolo.
Buon appetito! Pierpaolo Romio Founder / Fondatore Girolibero
5
INDEX Starters - i Primi
Easy to prepare
Lasagnette. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lasagna. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fagottino di crespella. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gnocchi di patate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gnocchi con fioretta e finferli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Parmigiana di melanzane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fusilli con gorgonzola e pere. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bigoli in salsa di baccalà . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pasta e Fagioli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Zuppa di carote, feta e paprika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Crema di ceci e vongole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Risotto con zenzero. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Strudel di verdure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Insalata Caprese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12 14 17 18 20 24 26 29 33 34 36 40 42 45
Main Courses - i Secondi Sandwich di sgombro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Seppioline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Filetto di trota salmonata. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Cozze e vongole alla marinara. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Branzino al cartoccio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Arrostino di pollastrella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Saltimbocca alla romana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Magatello di vitello. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Guancetta di manzo brasata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Roast beef all'italiana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Desserts - i Dolci Semifreddo all’amaretto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Meringata alle fragole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Panna cotta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Sfogliatine all’ananas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Crostatine ai frutti di bosco. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Tortino al cioccolato. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Tiramisù. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
6
Along the way ... When in Mantova . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Trade routes of Adria. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 When in Bergantino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 The River Po Nature Reserve. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 When in Chioggia . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 When in Ferrara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 When in Venice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
A taster of ... BaccalĂ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 A Venetian Limerick. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Rice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Insalata. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 La grigliata / Barbecue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Grana Padano & Parmigiano Reggiano. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Formaggio. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Gelato. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Il vino - Pairing food and wine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 The authors. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Girolibero backstage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
7
The
AVE MARIA
8
The
VITA PUGNA
9
t I PRIMI Starters
Risotto con zenzero Risotto with King Prawns, Ginger and Lemon (Serves 4) 320 g rice (carnaroli or vialone nano varieties) 280 g raw king prawns 60 g shallots ½ glass dry white wine 70 g of butter 10-15 g of ginger, peeled and crushed 1 lemon STOCK:
1 onion, 1 garlic clove 2 carrots, ½ celery stick 40 g olive oil 1 lt water 6-7 parsley sprigs 20 g butter salt and pepper
Start by cleaning the king prawns, removing head, shell and tail. Keep these to one side for the stock. Wash and peel as necessary the vegetables for the stock, chop into small pieces and brown them over a medium heat in a large stock pan drizzled with a little olive oil. Add the prawn heads and shells and cook for a couple of minutes, crushing the heads with a wooden spoon so as to extract all the juices. Add the water and parsley sprigs, and leave to simmer. Season with salt to taste. While the stock is bubbling away, melt the butter in a medium-sized, non-stick frying pan; finely dice the shallots, and brown half of them in the butter. Add the peeled prawns and sear turning up the heat; once they have released their juice, drizzle them with lemon juice, grate the lemon peel and stir it in. In a separate deep pan, toast the rice with the rest of the finely diced shallots and drizzle with wine. Continue cooking and stirring (over medium heat) for 8 minutes, infusing with the fish stock (passed through a sieve). Add the prawns and crushed ginger, and continue cooking for 6 minutes. Add stock as required, ladle by ladle, so that it just covers the risotto and keeps it moist. Continue tasting until the rice is soft and fleshy, but still al dente; stir in the final knob of butter for creaminess and, for that extra kick of spice, add a touch more ginger.
Risotto con zenzero, mazzancolle e limone (per 4) 320 g di riso (carnaroli o vialone nano) 280 g di mazzancolle 60 g di scalogno 1 goccio di vino 70 g di burro 10-15 g di zenzero 1 limone Per il fumetto: 1 cipolla, 1 spicchio d’aglio 2 carote, ½ gamba di sedano 40 g di olio d’oliva 1 lt di acqua 6-7 rametti di prezzemolo 20 g di burro per mantecare sale e pepe
40
Pulite innanzitutto le mazzancolle, staccando testa e corazza e sgusciandole fino alla coda; le teste e i gusci vanno tenuti da parte per il fumetto. Lavate e pulite bene le verdure per il fumetto; tagliatele a tocchetti e fatele rosolare a fuoco medio in un tegame capiente, con un filo d’olio. Aggiungete i gusci e le teste; lasciate cuocere per un paio di minuti, schiacciando le teste con un cucchiaio di legno per far fuoruscire tutti i succhi. Unite l’acqua e i rametti di prezzemolo, quindi lasciate bollire a fuoco moderato. Se necessario potete aggiustare di sale a vostro gusto. Mentre il fumetto cuoce, prendete una padella antiaderente e scioglieteci il burro; fate appassire metà dello scalogno tritato finemente. Appena il soffritto è pronto,
aggiungete le mazzancolle sgusciate e lasciatele rosolare a fuoco alto; quando avranno rilasciato il loro liquido, sfumate col succo del limone e aggiungete la scorza di limone grattugiata. A parte fate tostare il riso con il resto dello scalogno tritato; sfumate con il vino bianco e continuate la cottura per 8 minuti, a fuoco moderato, bagnando con il fumetto di pesce filtrato. Aggiungete le mazzancolle e lo zenzero tritato, e proseguite con la cottura per altri 6 minuti, continuando a bagnare con il fumetto. A cottura ultimata, togliete il risotto dal fuoco, aggiungete il burro e mantecate il risotto. Correggete se serve ancora un po’ di zenzero.
PUFFS, WHIFFS & SIGHS . . .
The Italian for fish stock is fumetto, or ‘little smoke’, because it is left to simmer away. In southern regions, kitchen herbs are known as odori, or ‘smells’; while in the heartland of our northern risotto (the plains of the River Po), every cook will know the meaning of sospiro, or ‘sigh’: this is what you should hear when, in the early stages of cooking your risotto, you gently infuse your rice with a drizzle of wine. If the ‘shhh’ is more than a retiring sigh, then your heat is too high. Sadly, the Bridge of Sighs in Venice has little to do with a splash of wine: the Ponte dei Sospiri is where prisoners being led to the dungeons would see the light of day for the last time.
41
t I SECONDI Main Courses
Arrostino di pollastrella Roasted Poussin with Casserole-Poached Artichokes alla veneta (Serves 4) 500 g poussin (young chicken) breast, whole 300 g sliced speck 250 g Savoy cabbage 500 g potatoes 1 onion 1 shallot 2 garlic cloves 1 rosemary sprig 2 marjoram or thyme sprigs 2 sage leaves 3-4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil ½ glass white wine salt and pepper 8 fresh artichokes 1 lemon 8 tbsp grated bread 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 handful parsley olive oil
Bone the chicken breast and open it out like a book. Peel the potatoes and chop them into one-centimetre cubes; blanch in salted water and drain when tender. Wash the cabbage and chop into Julienne strips. Sauté the onion and garlic in 3 generous tablespoons of oil; add the cabbage and white wine (saving a drop for later). Season with a pinch of salt and simmer gently for 15 minutes until evaporated. Add the potatoes and the marjoram/ thyme, and cook for a further 10 minutes. Stuff the chicken breast with the resulting sauté; salt and roll the meat, wrapping it in the speck. Tie with cooking string. Sauté the shallot, sage leaves and rosemary in a casserole. Brown the roulade in the sauté, adding the rest of the wine. Roast in the oven at 180° for approximately 30 minutes. Let the roast cool and carve it into vertical slices. Thicken the juices if necessary and glaze the meat. Clean and wash the artichokes; soak in water and lemon for a short time. Crush together the bread crumbs, garlic, parsley, salt and pepper and pat the resulting mix into the artichokes. Grease a casserole with oil and place them within, upright. Drizzle with oil, submerge them halfway up with water, cover with a lid and cook gently until the water has evaporated. Serve lukewarm.
Arrostino di pollastrella al bottaggio leggero con carciofi alla veneta (per 4) 500 g di petto di pollo intero 300 g di speck a fette 250 g di verze 500 g di patate 1 cipolla • 1 scalogno • 2 spicchi di aglio 1 rametto di rosmarino • 2 rametti di maggiorana o timo • 2 foglie di salvia 50 g di olio extravergine d’oliva ½ bicchiere di vino bianco sale e pepe 8 carciofi freschi • 1 limone 8 cucchiai di pan grattato 2 spicchi d’aglio tritato 1 mazzetto di prezzemolo • olio d’oliva
66
Disossate il petto di pollo e apritelo a libro. Pelate le patate e tagliatele a cubettino di un centimetro. Sbianchitele in acqua salata e quando sono morbide scolatele. Lavate e tagliate le verze a julienne. Fate un soffritto con la cipolla, aglio e olio; aggiungete le verze e bagnate con il vino bianco; fate evaporare e cuocete per 15 minuti, correggendo di sale. Unite le patate, il timo o la maggiorana fresca e continuate a cuocere per 10 minuti. Farcite i petti di pollo con questa farcia, salate e pepate, e chiudete a rotolo avvolgendo con lo speck. Legate con spago da cucina. In una padella fate soffriggere lo
scalogno, le foglie di salvia e il rosmarino. Rosolate l’arrostino e bagnate con vino bianco; finite la cottura in forno a 180° per circa 30 minuti. Aspettate che si raffreddi e tagliatelo a fette alte. Addensate la salsa e glassate l’arrosto. Pulite i carciofi, immergeteli in acqua e limone. Disponeteli dritti in una teglia oleata, dopo averli riempiti con un trito di pangrattato, aglio, prezzemolo, sale e pepe. Irrorate con olio di oliva i carciofi, copriteli fino a metà d’acqua e coprite con un coperchio; fate cuocere a fuoco moderato finché l’acqua non si è asciugata. Servire tiepidi.
67
GRANA PADANO &
Parmigiano Reggiano Although closely related and virtually identical to the eye, there are some notable differences between these two popular Italian cheeses, ranging from texture to their nutritional properties.
Shared traits
Distinguishing traits
Controlled Designation: both are DOP-certified (Denominazione di Origine Protetta = Protected Designation of Origin)
(Grana / Parmigiano)
The name Grana Padano derives from its grainy texture and geographical location – Padano meaning from the Po Valley. Its lower fat content makes it mature quicker than Parmigiano Reggiano, which probably accounts for its higher production volume and slightly lower cost. None of this, however, makes Grana in any way inferior: it is the best-selling cheese in Italy and considered easier to cook with and healthier than Parmigiano: besides its lower fat content, it is high in vitamins, calcium, iron and phosphorous. Older folk swear by it, and every Italian child knows that when they are ill their parents will soon wheel in those extra supplies of Grana.
Consistency: grainy, break into flakes when mature Ingredients: locally-sourced, high-quality cow’s milk, veal rennet, salt Processing: milk is heated and churned using similar equipment. Cheese is strained, pressed and molded. Humidity and temperature are controlled, wheels of cheese brushed clean and flipped regularly as they mature. Appearance: shape, size, weight Taste: strong, peppery and salty when mature Quality control: both are rigorously tested by the local cheese consortium, approved wheels individually branded with a hot iron Wastage: nil. The rind can be diced and cooked in a sauce or a risotto
78
Production area: Po Valley, north of the river, namely in the Veneto, Lombardy, Piedmont and Trentino regions / south of the Po, namely Reggio Emilia (hence its name), the rest of the Emilia Romagna region and parts of Mantova province Nutrition of cattle used for milk: fresh grass, hay, maize with lysozyme (a natural protein preservative) / grass, hay cereals with no fodder Milking: twice daily / normally once daily Milk & Fat: 100% semi-skimmed (less fat) / mix of whole and skimmed (more fat) Ageing : 9-22 months or longer / 12-30 months or longer Taste: softer, subtler, creamier (from delicate and milky when young to rich and peppery with age) / stronger, nuttier (more complex and saltier with age) Texture: creamier when young / crumblier Annual production: 4,800,000Â wheels / 3,400,000 wheels
RIVALRY & SOLIDARITY In May 2012 a series of earthquakes struck Emilia Romagna and its neighbouring regions, their epicentre near Modena. Although casualties were relatively low, the destruction was severe and brought the Parmigiano industry to its knees. Countless stacks of
expensive cheese ageing in the warehouses came tumbling down and became worthless. Despite the fierce Grana/ Parmigiano rivalry, there was instant solidarity among cheesemakers southern and northern. Many Grana producers also suffered damage; but
anyone who could, was quick to open the door to their neighbours and store any salvaged Parmigiano wheels in their own warehouses. For the first time in history, wheels of Grana Padano and Parmigiano Reggiano were thus left to age side by side.
79
t I DOLCI Desserts
Tiramisù Tiramisù
(serves 6) 250 g fresh cream 500 g mascarpone cream 100 g caster sugar 4 eggs 200 g sponge fingers (Savoiardi or Pavesini) 5 small cups espresso coffee (or similar) dark cocoa powder (enough to dust)
Start with the espresso and leave it to cool in a bowl. Separate the eggs and add half of the sugar to the yolks; whip until the consistency is light in colour, frothy and creamy. Separately, whisk the egg white to a firm peak, adding the remaining sugar and a pinch of salt halfway through. Soften and whip the mascarpone cream with a wooden spoon or hand-held blender; add the egg yolk and carry on whipping until it reaches a soft, creamy consistency. Whisk the fresh cream and stir into the blended mascarpone and eggs; make sure you stir from the bottom upwards, so as not to damage the mascarpone base. Time to start layering: in a deep dessert bowl or similar dish, start with a layer of sponge fingers and lightly drizzle them with cold coffee. Next, a layer of mascarpone mixture, followed by another layer of drizzled Savoiardi; repeat for another couple of layers, making sure that you end up with enough mascarpone mixture to top and seal the dessert. Chill the tiramisù in the fridge for at least 12 hours. Sprinkle with cocoa before serving... unleashing the artist within!
Tiramisù (per 6) 250 g di panna fresca 250 g di mascarpone 100 g di zucchero 4 uova 200 g di pavesini 5 tazze di caffè amaro q.b. di cacao amaro in polvere Come prima cosa preparate il caffè e mettetelo in una bacinella a raffreddare. Separate i tuorli d’uovo dall’albume e
100
montate i tuorli con metà dello zucchero, fino a quando non si ottiene un composto sufficientemente spumoso. Poi montate a neve gli albumi con lo zucchero e un pizzico di sale. Lavorate a parte il mascarpone utilizzando un mestolo oppure uno sbattitore elettrico; quando il mascarpone è ammorbidito aggiungete i tuorli d’uovo sbattuti e continuate a montare la crema. Montate la panna e unitela alla crema di mascarpone e agli albumi montati, facendo
attenzione a lavorare sempre dal basso verso l’alto per non smontare la base di mascarpone. Per comporre il dolce alternate in un vassoio per dolci uno strato di crema mascarpone, di pavesini leggermente imbevuti nel caffè, e ancora uno strato di crema mascarpone; continuate per tre strati di pavesini e finite con la crema. Mettete il tiramisù in frigo per almeno 12 ore. Spolverizzate con il cacao amaro e servite.
The Poetry of ...
CAFFĂˆ ITALIANO Coffee is the balsam of the heart and soul. (Giuseppe Verdi) When I die, bring me my coffee and you will see that I shall come back to life, just like Lazarus. (Eduardo De Filippo, playwright) A caffettiera on the hob is all one needs to fill a room. (Erri De Luca, Neapolitan novelist)
It is simple in appearance, yet the most complex thing in the world. Coffee is a microcosm, a Divine Comedy to be read in 30 seconds, a sensory kaleidoscope. (Anonimous) Freedom is like coffee: intense, to be served and conquered in minimal doses. (Diego Cugia, journalist, writer and broadcaster)
A sip of coffee is short and sweet, but capable of rising to the remotest regions of the brain and giving them a healthy tickle. (Luciano De Crescenzo, writer and philosopher) Coffee should be as hot as Hades, black as the devil, pure as an angel and as sweet as love. (Italian proverb) 101
WHEN IN Venice ... The stars of the show: Saint Mark’s Square and Cathedral, Doges’ Palace, Grand Canal, Rialto, Accademia Galleries, San Rocco, Gugenheim Collection. The islands: Murano (and its glass) and the quieter Burano and Torcello. . . .
not forgetting . . . The Biennale and Giardini – The Biennale has served as the model for countless arts events worldwide since 1895. Its pavilions are scattered around the ‘Gardens’ of Venice and throughout the city.
St Mark's Campanile
102
Views from San Giorgio – An early-morning sortie to the top of the belfry for that bird’s-eye view of St Mark’s, still free of the hordes and bathed in magical light. A souvenir that stays with you for good. Acqua Alta Bookshop – Who needs a bookcase when you have a gondola? An Aladdin’s cave of books old and new, maps, objets d’art, cards, cats, scholars. The Ghetto – Created in 1516, its name has become synonymous with any space occupied by an isolated minority. Now one of the city’s peaceful havens.
Castello district – Far from the madding crowd and still staunchly… Venetian. Harry’s Bar – Home of the Bellini and Carpaccio (shaken, not framed), and frequented by Chaplin, Toscanini, Hemingway, Hitchcock, Onassis, inter alia. And best of all: wander and get lost.
St Mark's and the Doge's Palace
The ancient Custom s House opposite St M ark's
103
THE AUTHORS
Giuliano Zarantonello
108
Giuliano hails from Montecchio (near Vicenza), a land of time-honoured recipes, folklore and – as the authentic home of Romeo’s Montague family – history. Top quality ingredients and seasonal produce make up the backbone of Montecchio’s cuisine, and Giuliano’s formative experience includes baking in a pasticceria and working in a starred restaurant – where he learned the importance of precision and the art of pres-
entation. In 2007 Giuliano opened his first restaurant, Pane & Tulipani (Bread & Tulips). His hallmark ever since: a vegetable plot outside the kitchen door. In 2011 Giuliano was conscripted into the Girolibero fleet and put in charge of catering. As well as focusing on the Venice Lands, the on-board cuisine includes classics from the Emilia Romagna and Lombardy regions – both on the Mantova-Venice bike and barge map – all the
while using fresh, local and seasonal ingredients. In 2014 Giuliano took part in the San Pellegrino Regata Cooking Cup in Venice – a challenge involving all chefs on the lagoon – winning the Award for Best Professional Cook.
La passione culinaria di Giuliano si
allargandone il repertorio. Nel 2007
per arruolarsi nella marina di Girolibero
forma nella cucina del suo Vicentino,
Giuliano apre il suo primo ristorante,
e gestirne la cucina. Da allora si
ricca di leggende e sacrosante ricette
il Pane & Tulipani, che ne rispecchia la
destreggia sulle onde, creando piatti
‘della nonna’. Dal ristorante stellato,
passione e formazione: sapori nostrani,
dell’eccellenza veneta e italiana.
dove apprende la precisione e l’arte
ingredienti stagionali (dall’orto dietro
Proprio in laguna, nel 2014, partecipa
della presentazione, il suo percorso
al ristorante) e pietanze che si gustano
alla Regata San Pellegrino Cooking Cup
gastronomico lo porta in varie cucine,
anche con gli occhi.
di Venezia, portandosi a casa il premio
compresa quella della pasticceria,
Nel 2011 Giuliano lascia la terra ferma
come Miglior Cuoco Professionista.
Fabio Perselli A nomadic childhood straddling East and West probably accounts for Fabio’s calling as a tour leader, translator and travel writer. Although he now lives abroad, Fabio’s passion for the Venice Lands – where his family roots lie – has simply grown and grown. After a degree in languages at London University and theatre studies in Paris, he worked for a number of touring companies, venues and festivals – among them the Biennale
Theatre Festival in Venice and the National Theatre in London. As a linguist, Fabio specialises in the fields of travel, theatre and classical music – including translations of plays, documentaries and opera libretti. He has also translated lyrics performed by Pavarotti and Carreras. Fabio’s output as a travel writer encompasses articles (on far-flung lands, tribes and wildlife), guides (Mauritius, Provence, Turkey, Greece),
plus a trunkful of translations and photography. His tour leading destinations range from the Cyclades Islands to Syria, although he now appears settled on his Girolibero saddle in North East Italy – lapping up the nature reserves, cities of art, culture and culinary delights.
Traduttore, tour leader e scrittore di
al richiamo della sua Terra Madre.
Il Fabio tour leader ha esplorato le isole
viaggio, Fabio è nato e cresciuto da
Come traduttore Fabio è specializzato
greche, la Siria e oltre, sistemandosi da
nomade. Dopo gli studi universitari e di
in testi di viaggio, teatro e musica –
qualche anno in qua in sella con
teatro (Londra e Parigi), lavora con
compresi copioni, documentari e
Girolibero: beato in bici, presenta ora il
festival, teatri stabili e compagnie di
libretti d’opera. Ha scritto articoli (su
suo Veneto – con tutte quelle ricchezze
giro – fra i quali la Biennale e il National
mete d’avventura, fauna, tribù), guide
e stranezze, quei vini e quei piatti...
Theatre. È trapiantato da anni nelle
(Mauritius, Provenza, Turchia, Grecia),
campagne inglesi, ma non resiste mai
e pubblicato foto dei suoi viaggi.
109
GIROLIBERO
Backstage Discovering the world about us at an easy pace – and enjoying plenty of good food along the way – has been in our DNA since 1998 here at Girolibero. We now run cycling holidays in Italy, France and beyond, specialising in bike and barge tours. We stake our reputation on providing quality bikes, expert tour leaders, reliable support, generous info packs and comfy accommodation; on tours where food is not included, we provide up-to-date tips on where to eat and drink locally. Our routes are accessible to most cyclists and designed along quiet bikeways, backroads and waterways. Our offices are located in historic Vicenza, not far from Venice, with a backstage staff of over 40 plus dozens of tour leaders, drivers, mechanics and – last but not least – a troupe of local cooks in the galleys. Welcome to Girolibero, where Slow Travel meets Slow Food. Take a virtual tour of our headquarters by visiting girolibero.it/virtualtour. For further information visit our multilingual website: www.girolibero.it
110
Dal 1998 viaggiamo in tutto il mondo a ritmo lento lungo piste ciclabili e su strade lontane dal traffico, a contatto con la natura e le tradizioni locali dei paesi che attraversiamo. Organizziamo vacanze con pernottamento in hotel selezionati e con trasporto bagagli o in comodi hotel-galleggianti che seguono i ciclisti lungo fiume. Le guide ciclabili e il materiale informativo fornito segnalano il percorso e spesso lasciano indicazioni per una sosta golosa lungo le tappe. Ogni partenza è organizzata con cura da un team di oltre 40 persone negli uffici di Vicenza, assieme al personale e ai cuochi delle nostre barche in Italia e in Francia. Guardateci al lavoro su girolibero.it/virtualtour e per maggiori informazioni visitate il sito www.girolibero.it
111
LAGO DI GARDA VICENZA
F IU
CIO ME M IN
VERONA
BIKE & BARG LAGHI DI MANTOVA CONCA DI SAN LEONE GOVERNOLO LOCK
MANTOVA
FIUME PO
S.BENEDETTO
VENETO ITA LIA
REVERE
ZELO
BERGANTINO MUSEO DELLA GIOSTRA CAROUSEL MUSEUM
DEGUSTAZI ONE GR GRANA PADANO CHEES
noparking.it _ vicenza
FERRARA
TREVISO
FIU
VENEZIA - DOLOMITI
166.5 km
ME S
ILE
litoranea veneta WATERWAYS
PADOVA
RIVIERA DEL BRENTA
VENEZIA
LIDO
LAGUNA
GE in Italy
PELLESTRINA
CHIOGGIA
E MERCATO DEL PESC Fish market
GICO MUSEO ARCHEOLO ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
BARBECUE
ADRIA
CANAL BIANCO
ANA PADAN O E TASTING
AlBARELLA
DELTA DEL PO
FIUME PO
COMACCHIO
VENEZIA - RAVENNA
143.5 km
N
‘A splendid book that combines Slow Food with Slow Travel, written and photographed with a genuine passion for Italy.’ John Brunton, photojournalist and regular contributor for The Guardian
‘Discovering the Valley of the Po by bike and barge was one of the best activity holidays my wife and I shared. The nature, folklore and traditional dishes of the Veneto are delightfully evoked in this unusual cookbook.’ Adrian Mourby - journalist and author o f Ro o m s o f O n e’ s O w n & Ro o m s w i t h a V i e w
From Tiramisù to Pasta e Fagioli, over 30 recipes from the waterways, cities and farmlands of the Veneto, enjoyed at the gentle pace of a bike and barge tour. The neighbouring cities of Mantua and Ferrara, once powerful city states in the shadow of the Venetian Republic, also offer their delicacies as we meander through the Po Valley – a landscape of rice paddies, poppy fields, fishing communities and glorious cities of art. The Grand Tour of centuries gone by was never a rushed affair, especially when it came to food. Exploring the cuisine, culture and natural wonders of the Veneto fully deserves its own easy tempo too. An award-winning chef and a veteran guide, both passionate about their Venetian hinterland, lead the way. Girolibero, sponsors of this cookbook, are one of the largest bike holiday operators in Europe. For their classic Mantua-Venice bike and barge tour, see girolibero.it ISBN 978-88-85606-00-5
ISBN 978-88-85606-00-5
9 788885 606005 € 19,–
www.g i rol ib ero.i t
