The Loire Valley - cycling from Orléans to Saumur by Girolibero

CYCLING GUIDE

The Loire Valley from Orléans to Saumur Sights, history, wining and dining tips, useful information I O L B E

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The Loire Valley from OrlĂŠans to Saumur

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Enrico Caracciolo, freelance journalist and photographer, is originally from Naples and now lives in Castagneto Carducci, in Tuscany. His travel writing focuses on bike touring and the outdoors and he has visited many countries throughout Europe, South America, Africa and Australasia â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all the while championing the positives of Slow Travel, particularly in the context of local cultures, crafts, customs and traditions. Enrico is the founder of Viatoribus (www.viatoribus.com), a publisher specialised in travel guides. He collaborates with tourist boards on local development projects, notably in the provinces of Livorno, Siena, Grosseto and Arezzo, in Tuscany. www.enricocaracciolo.com

EDITORIAL TEAM Fabio Perselli,, the translator, has led Girolibero groups along the cycling trails of Italy and Provence for many seasons. He is also a travel writer and professional translator specialising in theatre and classical music, along with travel. A fervent foodie, Fabio is co-author of the Bike & Barge Cookbook â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Waterways of Venice (www.bikebargecookbook.com).

Girolibero, Vicenza 2019 Concept and design: www.noparking.it Maps: www.noemastudio.it Photos: Enrico Caracciolo, Jolivet Daniel, Christophe Gagneux, Sandra Minissi, Pixabay, Gino Rosa, Carla Santiccioli, Angela Scarpari, W. Bulach, Wikipedia. All other photos by Girolibero and no.parking Restaurants: Leonardo Ceron and Christel Maillefaud Ceron Printed in Italy www.girolibero.it

ENRICO CARACCIOLO

The Loire Valley from Orléans to Saumur

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This guide will help you discover the Loire Valley between the cities of Orléans and Saumur. Here, you will find valuable information about the history, the artistic heritage and the beautiful landscape of the areas on route, not to mention also recommended places to stop along each stage and advice on the not-to-be-missed food and wines, with some names and addresses of restaurants and shops.

Index Loire à vélo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 The Loire Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 The Great River . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Valley of the Châteaux.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 A land perfumed with wine.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 History of the Loire Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Orléans.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Events.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 From Orléans to Beaugency / Saint-Dyé-sur-Loire . . . . . . 29 From Saint-Dyé-sur-Loire to Blois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Blois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 From Blois to Amboise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Amboise. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 From Amboise to Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77

Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Events.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 From Tours to Chinon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Chinon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Events.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 From Chinon to Saumur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Saumur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Useful Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 MAPS OVERVIEW OF THE TOUR . . . 8 STAGES OF THE TOURS Orléans–Beaugency/ Saint-Dyé-sur-Loire . . . . . . . . 28 Saint-Dyé-sur-Loire – Blois . . . . 38 Blois – Amboise. . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Amboise – Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Tour – Chinon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Chinon – Saumur. . . . . . . . . . . . 94

CITY MAPS Oléans. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Beaugency . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Saint-Dyé-sur-Loire . . . . . . . . . . 36 Blois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Amboise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Chinon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Saumur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100

L O I R E VA L L E Y

Loire à vélo “ [...] an outstanding cultural landscape of great beauty, containing historic towns and villages, great architectural monuments (the châteaux), and cultivated lands formed by many centuries of interaction between their population and the physical environment, primarily the river Loire itself.” With these words, on 30 November 2000, UNESCO’s World Heritage Committee described the Loire Valley, the heart of France. A land this rich in natural and cultural treasures is always best discovered by bike, at the leisurely pace it deserves, and cycling through the Loire Valley unravels a heritage that brings together all the essential aspects of a ‘cultural landscape’. UNESCO’s recognition also highlights the role of “a harmonious development of interactions between humankind and their environment over two millennia [ which ] illustrates to an exceptional degree the ideals of the Renaissance and the Age of Enlightenment on western European thought and design [...] considered expressions of human genius.”

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ORLÉANS TO SAUMUR STAGE TECHNICAL LOWDOWN TOTAL DISTANCE: 275 km (direct route) TOTAL ELEVATION: 1240 m SURFACE: 85% tarmac, 15% rough (but easily manageable) RAIL CONNECTIONS: daily between the towns along the tour DIFFICULTY: no specific training required, but a good level of fitness and familiarity with cycling are essential. There are no major climbs – just some undulating stretches.

For these reasons, among others, the Loire – Europe’s last wild river, which doggedly resists unbridled canalisation – has been awarded UNESCO’s top recognition. Loire à Vélo,, one of the great European bikeways, runs from Cuffy, within the Cher département,, to Saint-Brévin-les-Pins (approximately 900 km), where the Loire flows into the Atlantic Ocean. It also forms part of the EuroVelo 6 “Rivers Route”, which extends from Budapest to Nantes for some 3600 km along the Danube, Rhine and the Loire itself. The journey we follow in this guide focuses on the central section, which crosses the Loire Valley from Orléans to Saumur. It traverses the régions of Centre-Val de Loire and Pays de la Loire, crossing the départements of Loiret, Loir-et-Cher, Indre-et-Loire and Maine-et-Loire respectively. Loire à Vélo is an uncomplicated tour that experiences the ‘other’ Loire, not just the one associated with its iconic castles. The cycling route follows the course of the river virtually uninterruptedly – with the occasional detour into a vineyard or forest – calling in on hamlets and backwaters that are well off the main tourist track. It offers glimpses of a noble and renowned French land immersed in an atmosphere of intimacy: a land of hospitality and integrity, largely unspoilt, that would seem specially created for the bike tour lover. A landscape of gentle waterways in harmony with the ubiquitous soft stone – predominantly tufa and slate – of the villages, châteaux and perched burghs. Loire à Vélo is a trail of villages imperfectly moulded over time; gardens, soft and white tufa, trompe-l’oeuil painted windows; uncrenellated castles displaying elegance as well as robustness; asymmetrical squares animated with everyday life. A life in perfect harmony with the environment of a terre sauvage.

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The Loire Valley While the image of these lands is inextricably linked to the lavish châteaux that adorn a landscape of vast horizons and supreme beauty, our tour’s central theme, atmosphere and feel all come together within the context of the great river itself – and the stories it tells of everyday life. We ride westwards, our cycleway a patchwork of nature, culture and humanity.

The Great River The Loire is considered one of Europe’s last wild rivers, its natural flow and ecosystem largely undisturbed by human interference such as dams or concrete levees. Over the centuries, its communities – the Ligériens – have also endured their fair

LOIRE VALLEY IN NUMBERS RÉGIONS: Centre-Val de Loire and Pays de la Loire. DÉPARTEMENTS: Loiret, Loir-et-Cher, Indre-et-Loire and Maine-et-Loire. AREA: approx. 40,000 sq km. POPULATION: approx. 2,600,000. LARGEST TOWNS (BY POPULATION): Tours: 136,000; Orléans: 115,000; Blois: 47,000; Saumur: 27,500; Amboise: 13,500; Chinon: 8,100

share of flooding, broken banks and drought, all of which have contributed to altering the Loire’s course, islands and ecosystem; the latter fundamentally relies on water purified by roots in the floodplains, and enriched with loam and other vital sediments. The end of the XX century – 1994, to be precise – was also of great significance to the future of the Loire, when the French government approved the Plan Loire Grandeur Nature: the safeguarding of the Ligériens, of their environment and of the area’s economic development all rolled into one. The project remains in place today, a paragon of virtue that gives nature free reign, while keeping in check the risks of natural disasters: humans and nature integrate on a land where wilderness and settled communities are alternated, while providing fertile and well irrigated soil. The Loire’s waters have powered mills since time immemorial, and to this day serve hydroelectric and nuclear power stations. Between the XVII and XIX centuries, the river was also a commercial route busy with barges transporting hemp, tufa stone, wine and spices along its course. There were three types of traditional flat-bottomed barge designed for these shallow waters: the gabarre, a large sailboat used for freight; the toue, a smaller fishing boat, often equipped with a cabin; and the fûtreau, the smallest, used by fishermen to hop across from one bank to the other.

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The rediscovery of some of these craft has successfully translated into the popular leisure cruises between Creusille harbour and Blois. Enthusiasts can discover some of the original vessels at the Loire Marine Museum at Châteauneuf-sur-Loire, near Orléans, or at Cap Loire at Montijean-sur-Loire, a short distance after Saumur.

Valley of the Châteaux The aristocratic spirit and sheer beauty of this land flaunt themselves in the châteaux which have made the valley legendary. There are over 300, built between the X and XVII centuries; they were originally fortified country houses – hence mostly rustic and essential in style. Subsequently, between the XV and XVII centuries, they emerged into the Golden Age which spanned the reigns of Charles VII and Louis XIV – a chapter that included Francis I, who outshone them all in splendour with his own imposing castle at Chambord, the greatest and most sumptuous of all in the Loire. During this period, the castles expressed all the opulence, luxury and elegance of their royal families. It comes as no surprise that Francis I summoned to his court the genius of Leonardo da Vinci, who would contribute much of the Loire’s Renaissance beauty. The other stars of the show are Blois, where we can enjoy one of the most thrilling sound and lights shows; Cheverny, with its light stone and spectacular furnishings; Chenonceau, known as the “Château des Dames”, an edifice whose perfection is reflected in the

THE LOIRE VALLEY ONLINE WWW.LOIREAVELO.FR Official site of the cycleway: practical information, contacts, restaurants

WWW.ECHAPPEESAVELO.FR Events, ideas, two-wheeled activities in the Loire Valley

WWW.LOIREVALLEY-FRANCE.CO.UK Information on excursions, bike itineraries, castles, nature, wineries, eating out, events

WWW.FRANCE.FR Practical information, contacts, suggestions, further info links, culture, wine, fashion, exhibiitons, events, flights, tourist passes

WWW.VALDELOIRE-TOURISME.FR Information and bookings portal for excursions and events WWW.VALDELOIRE.ORG News, information, bookings, cultural events

WWW.ATOUT-FRANCE.FR Official site of the French Tourist Board

waters of the Cher; not forgetting, of course, Amboise, where Leonardo died on 2 May 1519 and is buried. The journey continues through the treasures of Villandry, its sophisticated gardens celebrated for their aesthetic sense and symbolic perfectionism; and on through Azay-le-Rideau, a gem whose story is also retold on a summer’s night with lights and images, recreating the atmosphere of castle dwellers and courtiers.

A land perfumed with wine The Loire Valley is also a wine-producing district of exceptional quality, which offers no less than 87 types of AOC-appellated wine, a tradition that dates back to the I century AD, when the Romans first cultivated the vine. Between Nantes and Orléans, the AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée)) wine-producing areas are Pays Nantais, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine and Centre. The Orléans to Saumur stage of our journey in particular immerses us in the areas of Touraine and Anjou-Saumur, which are readily associated with Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc for the whites; and Cabernet Franc and Gamay for the reds. But all of the Loire Valley could hold its own, not least by virtue of the variety on offer: whites, reds, rosés, dessert wines and Saumur’s fine bubbly.

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History of the Loire Valley Nomadic tribes are known to have crossed the Loire Valley in Paleolithic times, while the first settlements spanned a period from 10,000 to 4,000 BC. Although the first people dedicated to agriculture had arrived earlier from the Middle East, the first evidence of structured settlement in proper urban communities dates to the time of the Gauls. By the IV century BC, the area of today’s Orléans was already the heart of Gaul – a district where the Romans later established themselves with little difficulty, to the exclusion of the Andecavi and Carnutes, local peoples whose resistance to the colonisers proved vain. The advent of Christianity and evangelisation laid the foundations for the next chapter, to which the stones of ancient monasteries such as Marmoutier and Fleury bear witness. The Dark Ages saw the Loire Valley contend with Barbarian invasions and resist Saracen incursions (under Charles Martel in the VIII century); in the IX century, the Vikings stormed and torched villages, towns and abbeys as they sailed up the river. The Hundred Years’ War brought to an end, in 1453, a seemingly endless era of feudal strife which had kept the Loire Valley at its knees for five centuries. With the English laying siege to Orléans and France seemingly doomed, Joan of Arc came to rescue: on 8 May 1429, spurred on by pride and desperation, her forces routed the invader and restored the country to its crown. The Renaissance is synonymous with the Loire Valley’s Golden Age, offering it cultural renewal and the art de vivre à la française. This is where the aristocratic and ruling classes from across the country chose to plant their roots, starting in 1461, when Louis XI decreed that Tours was to be the capital – a role it would fulfil until the XVI century, when Henry IV transferred the court to Paris. In reality, well before that, it had been Charles VII’s decision – a few years after the 1415 defeat suffered by his father (Charles VI) at the hands of the English in

Agincourt – to leave for Paris, which promised less turmoil than the Loire Valley. The Renaissance proved a particularly intense and productive period, thanks also to artists who had arrived from Italy – the most illustrious being Leonardo da Vinci, who is buried at Amboise Castle. Chambord and Montsorreau, as mentioned above, outshine most of the other châteaux of this historic period in aesthetic beauty and architecture, Montsorreau being the only one built along the actual river. Amboise and Blois are both earlier edifices that were subsequently restructured in accordance with Renaissance criteria. During the Renaissance, Orléans became a veritable capital of culture on the back of the ideas, studies and projects contributed by its university. These included the thoughts of Calvin – who lived in the city – and Luther: their influence ran deep here and clashed with the Crede of Rome, often leading to brutal repression and reprisal. For almost 40 years – following the Conspiracy of Amboise in 1560, when Protestants attempted to kidnap Francis II – clashes between Catholics and Protestants became commonplace, with continual bloodshed and retribution. Between the XVII and XVIII centuries the Loire Valley was provided with a structure for economic growth in the shape of navigable canals connecting to the main river, a network gradually superseded in the course of the XIX century by the railways, symbol of a transformed, modern nation. The French Revolution (17891799) sent shockwaves well beyond its borders into the rest of Europe: the ancien régime and social inequalities gave way to change; France’s absolute monarchy collapsed and a Republic was proclaimed. A modern era had been ushered in. Within the Loire Valley, these radical developments found fertile ground in the larger urban centres such as Orléans; and although the more rural backwaters proved more resistant to change, a number of aristocratic castles and villas were nonetheless looted and destroyed in the course of the Revolution. History’s more recent pages prefer to tell the story of a land that basks in its Renaissance heritage, where the forces of nature work in harmony with human creativity and innovation across the board – from architecture and the arts, to agriculture. Loire à Vélo too embraces these values in this elegant and precious corner of France.

L O I R E VA L L E Y

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Orléans A short stroll through the historic centre or along the river, a pain au chocolat or a glass of Loire wine admiring the Maid of Orléans, and we soon feel the enchantment of the Art de vivre of the communities living along these shores, as the Loire flows majestically towards the light of the west. The Great River accounts for much of Orléans’s celebrated openness, which has enabled a steady exchange of goods, thoughts and culture throughout its history. The city lived its Golden Age in the XVIII century. The Loire’s Navy has long been a benchmark in the world of river transport, ferrying all manner of freight to Paris – notably wine from the region’s vignerons; vignerons from the Antilles, sugar and spices; salt and dried fish from the Atlantic; and slate from Anjou. To this day, Orléans basks in the legend of Joan of Arc, the Maid of Orléans, who – against all the odds – spearheaded the town’s liberation from the English during the Hundred Years’ War, in 1429. The Second World War was bitterly felt here, and Orléans’s rebirth from 1945 onwards has steadily led to the splendour it now enjoys. The atmosphere is vibrant and bubbly, ever animated with a positive energy – not least from the university, which is popular with both French and foreign students benefitting from their Erasmus exchange projects. The town sparkles in the daylight with its timber-framed houses, intimate alleyways and aweinspiring edifices – first and foremost the Cathedral of the Holy Cross, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. At night, Orléans comes to life along the rue de Bourgogne especially, with its bars, cafés and restaurants catering for all tastes. THE CYCLIST’S ORLÉANS The urban area of Orléans, known as Orléans Métropole, is served by no less than 428 km of bikeways and 4740 parking slots for bikes; these are generally found near bus and tram stops, public service buildings and shops. Géovélo is the

app designed for Orléans’s bike users: it picks the best routes, bikeways and quieter roads, offering comfort, safety and peace of mind. Download it via Google Play or App Store.

ORLÉANS

L O I R E VA L L E Y

ORLÉANS

JOAN OF ARC The story of Joan of Arc is closely associated with Orléans and the Hundred Years’ War, which pitted the French against the English with such unbridled bloodshed here in the Loire Valley. Well beyond her lands too, the Maid of Orléans has been widely adopted as a symbol: Joan is the national heroine of France and patron saint not only of the country itself but also of: telegraphy, wireless communication, the armed forces and the police. She was born in 1412 in Domrémy, in the Loraine, into a peasant family. By the age of 13, Joan was already profoundly religious, not least as a result of her mystical visions: the Archangel Gabriel and Saints Catherine and Margaret are said to have urged her, in the first instance, to lead a devout life; and subsequently to defend France. Aged only 16, Joan resolved to join the cause. Being uneducated, fulfilling such an important and delicate task appeared like a lost cause. The captain of the Vaucouleurs

stronghold introduced her to the Dauphin, the pretender to the French throne – a position, however, which had been promised by his father Charles VI, the reigning monarch, to the King of England, Henry VI. This commitment, sanctioned by the Treaty of Troyes, was precisely what sparked the Anglo-French war. Joan’s intent was favourably accepted and she rode off to Orléans which, being strategically placed, was fiercely besieged by the English. The Maid’s strength of character soon galvanised the downhearted French troops, and 8 May 1429 witnessed the historic liberation of the city, with a 17-year-old virgin warrior leading 7,000 soldiers into battle. Other successes would follow, such as the Battle of Patay and the cavalcade into Reims for the coronation of Charles VII as King of France. Soon after, however, Joan was captured at Compiègne by a Burgundian faction, a group of nobles allied to the English. Once in the hands of the latter, she was passed on to Bishop Pierre Cauchon, who also sided with enemy. The Maid was tried for heresy in a highly politicised and flawed trial (and accused, among other offences, of crossdressing), and found guilty. Joan of Arc was thus burnt at the stake in Rouen’s central square on 30 May 1431. Consigned to immortality by her legend, she was subsequently rehabilitated and declared innocent, thanks to Pope Callixtus III. Joan thus came to embody the image of a united France: she was canonised and proclaimed venerable in 1894, beatified in 1909 and declared a Saint in 1920.

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Orléans’s earliest recorded community were the Carnutes, whose capital this was – Cenabum, where Druids celebrated an annual gathering. In 53 BC Julius Caesar laid waste to Cenabum and on its ruins the Roman emperor Arelius founded Aurelianum. After the end of the Roman Empire, the city became the capital of the Merovingian Kingdom of Orléans. It subsequently served as capital to the Duchy of Valis-Orléans, its dynasty contributing no less than two kings to France: Louis XII (1462-1515) and Francis I (1494-1547). During the Middle Ages, along with Rouen and Paris, Orléans became one of the wealthiest towns in the country thanks to its strategic importance – notably its bridge, one of the few across the Loire, which at the time was challenging to cross. The bridge is also significantly symbolic to the city’s history, because it was here (near Tourelles Castle, to be precise) that Joan of Arc, aided by her generals Dunois and Florent d’Illiers, triumphed in her acclaimed battle against the English rulers, the Plantagenets, on 8 May 1429, during the Hundred Years’ War. The Maid of Orléans was later imprisoned, and although the people of Orléans contributed to the ransom which would have freed the heroine of France, the king – Charles VII – chose not to lend his support. Aged only 19, Joan died at the stake on 30 May 1431 in Rouen. The end of the Hundred Years’ War ushered in a period of great prosperity for the city, which became a favourite with the aristocracy. The noble and the rich left Paris in droves throughout the Renaissance, attracted by the beauty of the Loire Valley, where magnificent castles such as Chambord, Amboise, Blois and Chenoncheau were built. Spurred on by Louis XI, agricultural development too flourished in these naturally irrigated and fertile lands; the bridge over the Loire also contributed to the local wealth with an endless flow of toll payments and taxes from passing merchants. The Duchy of Orléans thus became one of the most powerful economic forces in the whole of

TOURIST INFORMATION Orléans Val de Loire Tourisme 2 place de l’Étape – 45056 Orléans - Tel. 02.38240505 www.tourisme-orleansmetropole.com

ORLÉANS

History of the city

ORLÉANS

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France. Louis Philippe II died on the guillotine for supporting the French Revolution; while his son, Philippe I, is remembered as the last ‘King of the French’. The inauguration of the railways in 1847 radically altered the city’s mobility and organisation, now focused less on riverborne transport in the heart of town, and more on facilities at its northern end. Recent history paints a picture of a city restoring its heart where it belongs: at its centre, thanks in part to its two new urban tramlines and simply by virtue of being joined at the hip to its river. Ever since the 70s, Courpain Point, where the waters of the Loiret and Loire meet (10 km from the centre), has served as a public park; since 2006, it has also been home to a nature reserve renowned for its riverine flora. The town centre offers an attractive pedestrianised zone and cycleways which, with Loire à Vélo, add up to a fine infrastructure for unmotorised wandering.

The best in brief 1 SAINTE CROIX CATHEDRAL

Imposingly eye-catching, Orléans’s cathedral measures 140 m in length, 65 m in width and 32 m in height; the lateral towers and steeple reach 88 m and 114 m respectively. Holy Cross was built in the IV century, a time when Christianity was taking root here, and modified over the course of the centuries. Destroyed by a fire in 989, it was rebuilt in the Romanesque style, only to be completely reconstructed in its Gothic guise after a structural collapse in 1278. It was partly destroyed by the Huguenots in 1568, and its subsequent restoration, under Henry IV, was inspired by the basilica of Notre-Dame de Cléry. Its engraved altar and magnificent windows are particularly noteworthy, the latter retelling the story of Joan of Arc. 2 MUSÉE DES BEAUX ARTS (MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS)

Adjacent to the cathedral, it preserves sculptures and decorative objects illustrating French and continental art spanning the XVII and XX centuries, as well as a section dedicated to modern and contemporary art. There is a department focused on pastels, and another centred on Dutch, Flemish and Italian artists.

3 PLACE DU MARTROI

Where the city’s heart beats and, appropriately, home to the Maiden of Orléans’s equestrian statue: depicting Joan giving thanks to God, it was created by Denis Foyatier in 1855. ‘Martyrdom Square’ is ample, elegant and abuzz with pedestrians and cyclists; this is where the corn market was held in the Middle Ages, and the scene of public executions. 4 MAISON JEANNE D’ARC (JOAN OF ARC’S HOUSE)

A reconstruction of Bailly Jacques Boucher’s house, where the French heroine resided at the time of the Battle of Orléans in 1429. Absorbing diorama projections enable the visitor to delve deeper into the life of Joan of Arc, which was cut short at the stake in Rouen, Normandy, in 1431. 3 Place du Général de Gaulle, Tel. 02.38683263 www.jeannedarc.com.fr 5 HÔTEL GROSLOT

XVI-century palace of striking aristocratic elegance, once the residence of Henry III, Henry IV and Francis II. Originally commissioned by Groslot, an Officer of Justice in Orléans, this Renaissance building later became the town hall (hence ‘Hôtel’). The interiors are in so-called Troubadour Gothic style, displaying furnishings and works of art from the XIX century. One of the most attractive statues of Joan of Arc is positioned along the main staircase. 2 Place de l’Étape, Tel. 02.38792230

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6 PLACE DU CHÂTELET

Another historic square, skirted by buildings still resplendent in their Renaissance opulence – among them the Maison de Jean Dalibert, built by a wealthy merchant over a medieval house. 7 CRYPT OF SAINT-AIGNAN

Built by King Robert the Pious in 1029, it guards the relics of St Aignan. The upper part of the church was destroyed in the XIV century; the saint’s monumental grave – and his relics – down below are shrouded in an atmosphere of great intimacy. The pilaster capitals in the great hall are decorated with polychromatic figures that predate the spread of Romanesque art. 8 COLLÉGIALE SAINT-PIERRE-LE-PUELLIER

A symbol of the city not only as its earliest church, but also because it has withstood the ravages of time, from the wars of religion to the Revolution. Built in the XII century, the Collégiale is enriched by its unusually austere and essential Romanesque style. Last deconsecrated in 1958, it is now a venue for cultural events and exhibitions.

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1 square Abbé Desnoyers, Hotel Cabu. Tel. 02.38792560 10 CALATRAVA’S PONT DE L’ EUROPE

A bold sight to behold upon the Loire, Santiago Calatrava’s bridge is a statement of architectural virtuosity, elegance and – embracing land, river and sky – integration. A single arch, resting on two concrete bases, spans the 470-m bridge. A classic Calatrava hallmark is its one, single colour: white.

Eating and drinking The Loire’s cuisine speaks for the richness of the land and the hard work of a people who has never failed to integrate with the character of its surrounding nature: strong and wild, but generous too. Soil and water tell the story of a cuisine deeply rooted in tradition. Meat, fish and vegetables constitute the basis of the region’s classic dishes found in most restaurants. Rillettes (seasoned duck or pork) stand out, as do hare, venison and boar; artichokes boiled in water and wine with aromatic herbs; Moules marinières (mussels in white wine). Pulses include the IGP-appellated green lentils of the Loire, while gluttons are catered for with Tarte Tatin and its famous caramelised apples (the story there being that the Tatin sisters accidentally shoved one into the oven upside down). But they can also look forward to the Île flottante, a thin custard with floating meringues; Gâteau Pithiviers, creamed almonds in a crispy puff pastry; and, last but not least, Crêpes Suzettes flavoured with orange. The Loire’s goat’s milk cheeses take some beating, among them Valençay, Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine and Crottin de Chavignol.

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9 HÔTEL CABU – HISTORICAL AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

One of Orléans’s flagship Renaissance buildings, the Cabu bears the name of the lawyer who commissioned it as a residence from the architect Jacques 1st Androuet Du Cerceau. It now houses the city’s main museum, which includes the treasure of Neuvy-en-Sullias – a rare collection of Gallic and Gallo-Roman bronze artefacts – as well as documents relating to the life of Joan of Arc and the history of Orléans.

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EATING AND DRINKING

11 B. GLACIER 8 Rue des Albanais Tel. 02 38535834, www.bglacier.fr Open till 7pm. Closed Monday. Ice cream parlour/pâtisserie/lunch on the go. Excellent glaces (including savoury ones), unusual Dishes of the Day (with ice cream). Fine veggie choice. 12 L’HENDRIX PUB 278 Rue de Bourgogne Tel. 02 38546447 Open 7/7, 5pm-3am. Vast choice of beers, along with local brews on tap. Buzzing with youth. 13 LES BECS À VIN 8 Place du Châtelet Tel. 09 65166409 Open till 1am. Closed Sunday. www.becsavin.com Winebar serving food. Dish and dessert of the day for lunch (check Facebook page for daily Specials). Platters of meats/cheeses/quiches for dinner. Classic French decor. Organic and biodynamic wines.

14 LE GRENIER À PAIN 8 Rue des Halles Tel. 02 41208510, Closed Sunday. legrenierapain.com Chain producing bread/sandwiches/quiches/pasta dishes. Fabulous bread. 15 ETIK AND BIO 7 Rue des Halles Tel. 899 273505, Closed Sunday. www.etiketbio.eu For the health-conscious, offering organic, vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free food. 16 SUITE ET FAIM 3 Rue du Petit Puits Tel. 02 38812393 Open till 6pm. Closed Monday. suiteetfaim.business.site Gastro-resto/tea salon/local beers. Fresh dishes prepared on the spot, eat in or take out. 17 OH TERROIR 3 Rue des Halles. Tel. 02 38757126 Open 7/7, including dinner. ohterroir-orleans.fr A provider, in its own words, of ‘Fast-Good’, with a winning formula of quality fare (prepared by a chef). Local produce, eat in or take out, all served snappy. Plenty of organic, veggie and vegan choice. 18 DÉLIRIUM CAFÉ 5 Place de Loire Tel. 02 38629737 Open 7/7 till 01.00 www.deliriumcafe-orleans.fr Alehouse chain, offering 15 draught and 180 bottled beers. Terrace with view across the Loire.

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, End of April – first week of May, Fêtes Johanniques. Anniversary of the liberation of Orléans. Medieval fair, market, concerts, exhibitions and reenactments – such as the procession of Joan passing through the Porte de Bourgogne gate and entering the city. , From mid-May to mid-September, Sound & Light show at Orléans Cathedral. , June till end September, Open-air Guinguette: bars/small restaurants/concerts/chilling joints here include La Sardine, La Paillotte, Le Boui-Boui. Open 7/7, when the weather is fine. , Second half of June, Orléans Jazz.. International artists come together at various venues in town. (Dates variable from year to year – check website: orleans-metropole.fr) , August, Open Air Film Festival.. Al fresco flicks at various spaces in Orléans: new talkies, classics and blockbusters, along with art and indie ones. , Mid-September, Festival de Loire d’Orléans.. The city’s main event: concerts, theatre, contemporary art and reworkings of medieval art. This is the Loire Navy’s own festival, including demonstrations of riverboat building and the largest gathering of French vessels anywhere. Not forgetting food workshops and tasting of local specialities.

ORLÉANS

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Orléans–Beaugency/ Saint-Dyé-sur-Loire With the departure from the city comes the pleasure of an attractive riverside and the crossing of the fabulous Calatrava Bridge (Pont de l’Europe), which leads to the southern embankment of the Loire. This is now a leisurely ride, as we head for the charming hamlet of St-Hilaire-St-Mesmin, where we cross the stone bridge over the Loiret, an affuent of the Loire. Loire à Vélo then wends through the gentle and barely perceptible hills of an austere countryside which never quite seems to want to lose contact with the river. The force of nature certainly manifests itself, however, at the confluence of the Loire and Loiret near the Pointe de Courpain. From this point onwards, the Loire spreads itself out across a wide bed, and the creative force of the water builds up and moulds the river’s islands, continuously reshaping them. The bikeway crosses open countryside before arriving at the burgh of Meung-surLoire, which is dominated by its castle and an exquisite collegiate edifice. The ride to Beaugency is a full immersion in nature, as we follow the Mauve along a rough stretch which faithfully follows the northern bank of the Loire, before entering the burgh itself. The arrival at Saint-Dyé-sur-Loire is a moment to cherish, as the village is an absolute stone gem: it exudes the atmosphere of the Loire and inebriates with those long sunsets over its waters, ablaze with the colours of dusk. 1 PARC FLORAL DE LA SOURCE

The park is a wonderful place to immerse oneself in nature’s generous beauty, which manifests itself in its many guises here, season after season. A veritable salon of nature, these 35 hectares offer the most congenial corners for bonding with Mother Nature: the Iris Garden, Tropical Garden, Rose Garden and Rock Garden – not to mention an absorbing ride through its towering secular trees. Equally fascinating is the diversity of flora, both alpine and aquatic, in a park that is a paragon of successful conservation practice. The Parc Floral de la Source uses no herbicides or fertilisers, relying entirely on the natural ecosystem and spontaneous growth – a symbol of biodiversity.

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F R O M O R L É A N S T O B E A U G E N C Y / S A I N T- D Y É - S U R - L O I R E

2 CLÉRY-SAINT-ANDRÉ

The village has grown around the imposing basilica of NotreDame, the resting place of Louis XI. As well as the Loire à Vélo, the Route of Santiago de Compostela (GR 655 – The Way of Tours) passes through here, both making the village popular with travellers. The cathedral is rated as one of the country’s historic monuments, and its life has certainly been tumultuous. Built at the end of the XII century, it was destroyed during the Hundred Years’ War by the English army, as it headed towards Orléans in 1428. It was rebuilt and restored to its former glory in 1485 at the hands of Louis XI, who had acceded to the French throne. 3 MEUNG-SUR-LOIRE

Strikingly positioned right on the Loire, Meung-sur-Loire begs to be visited: stone reigns supreme here, and losing oneself in the narrow alleys and suddenly coming face-to-face with the Collégiale de Saint-Liphard alone make it worth exploring. Add to this the castle, every bit as breathtaking: until the French Revolution, this had been the residence of the bishops of Orléans. It is known as the ‘Castle with Two Faces’ for its two distinct façades: one medieval and one Renaissance. The XIII-

century chapel is well worth seeing, as are the Salon of Liqueurs, kitchens and granaries. It numbers a staggering 131 rooms, which have offered hospitality to, among others, Francis I and Joan of Arc. 4 BEAUGENCY

Beaugency’s medieval stone speaks for its strength of character: they constitute the framework of this small town, which is built along the river and gathered around the Abbey of Notre-Dame, its Romanesque church enhanced by an XI-century defensive tower and the clock tower. Beaugency is readily associated with the legend of its bridge across the Loire. It recounts how a rich foreign merchant offered to build the bridge in a single night, in exchange for the soul of the first who should cross it. The stranger was true to his word and erected an attractive stone bridge linking the two banks; the populace, however, were gripped by caution and sent a cat across the structure. The devil himself, on the other side, having failed to acquire the soul of a human, fled in a rage, never to be seen again in Beaugency.

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Hotels 6 Hôtel de la Sologne 7 Le Relais des Templiers 8 Hôtel L’Ecu de Bretagne

Restaurants and Pubs 4 Made in Loire 5 César et Firmin

Monuments and historical sites 1 Château de Beaugency 2 Abbey of Notre-Dame 3 Beaugency Bridge

Tourist Office

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The best in brief Occupies centre stage with Notre-Dame Abbey, the two structures having shaped the architecture of the village through the centuries, and the very lives of its inhabitants. Linked to the family of the seigneurs of Beaugency – in turn associated with the French Crown – the castle came under the Duchy of Orléans in the XIV century until the French Revolution. It merits a visit to admire the courtyard and hanging garden, the Guards’ Hall, kitchens, the oratory and chapel, and the loft, shaped like the upturned hull of a boat. The castle was also home to Joan of Arc’s companion, Jean de Dunois, known as the ‘Bastard of Orléans’. 2 ABBEY OF NOTRE-DAME

The village is dominated by this striking edifice, austere in its Romanesque style. Within, the church is shrouded in a particular atmosphere, its acoustic bordering on perfection. Little surprise that it hosts high-profile musical events every year, such as the Festival of Sully and Loiret – a classical musical festival renowned throughout France.

EATING AND DRINKING 4 MADE IN LOIRE 12 Place du Petit Marché Tel. 02 34592732 Open 7/7 in summer throughout the day from lunch till after dinner. Wine bar/restaurant/deli. Wine, beer, local delicacies and an uncomplicated menu – to buy, take out, or eat in at the tiny restaurant.

5 CÉSAR ET FIRMIN 1 B Place Saint Firmin (near Hôtel de la Sologne) Tel. 09 83030817 Closed evenings and Tuesday. Lunch break, tea room, ice creams.

3 BEAUGENCY BRIDGE

Built in the XII century and considered the doyen of all bridges across the Loire. It extends to 400 m, spanning 23 arches: the third of these included at one time the Chapel of Saint-Jacques – or James – a milestone for pilgrims passing through. When James Joyce was on holiday here with his wife Nora, he is said

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1 BEAUGENCY CASTLE

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F R O M O R L É A N S T O B E A U G E N C Y / S A I N T- D Y É - S U R - L O I R E

to have been captivated by the bridge, not least by the tale of the devil and the cat. 5 SAINT-LAURENT-DES-EAUX NUCLEAR POWER STATION

Rising on an artificial island in the middle of the Loire, it appears from afar with its two gigantic towers. Its two chambers produce 900 MW each, practically supplying all of the region’s energy. It is open to the public, and some 5000 visitors a year learn about the world of nuclear energy through videos, information panel and illustrated trails. Information and bookings: Tel. 02.54458411 6 CHÂTEAU D’AVARAY

An imposing and muscular edifice, cornered by robust towers and surrounded by a moat fed by waters from three springs and three stone bridges. The castle is enriched by a park with a French garden, with man and nature seemingly in perfect harmony. D’Avaray can’t be visited, but can be booked for holidays of a ‘royal’ variety, accommodated in an appartment which offers three bedrooms and vaulted ceilings four meters high. Information and bookings: Tel. 06.61613592 7 CHÂTEAU DE TALCY

Somewhat off the beaten track and less famous than other Loire castles, Talcy Castle was built in the XIII century over the ruins of a pre-existing medieval fortress, then transformed in

Renaissance times. This rural gem can be visited inside and out, including the dovecote and the mill; the orchard with its fruit trees; and the seven rock-walled gardens surrounded by cereal production. It provides a rare opportunity, compared to the grander châteaux, to experience the Loire’s more intimate and solitary castles. Talcy’s literary connection is also interesting: this is where the poet Pierre de Ronsard lived when he composed his verses – no less than 182 sonnets – for his beloved Cassandra Salviati, daughter of the Florentine banker Bernardo Salviati; and one of the last proprietors of the castle was Albert Stapfer, the first translator of Goethe. 8 SAINT-DYÈ-SUR-LOIRE

At Saint-Dyé-sur-Loire the visitor breathes the river, its history and its beauty. It offers the cyclist a moment to be treasured when, at sunset, the waters are coloured red like the sky. All appears to come to a standstill, bar the slow but unremitting westward flow of the river. Saint-Dyé is a small village with a rich and intense history linked with the sheer hard graft of the people who have shaped the territory to their needs. Tiny streets, courtyards, alleyways and small squares all account for its association with the river, its presence all-pervasive. The soul of the village belongs to Saint Dyé, or Déodat, one of the two hermits – the other being Beaumaire – who lived here in the V century, as they spread the Word. In their wake Saint-Dyé became a site of pilgrimage, and the character

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of the village was further shaped in the Middle Ages when it became a fortified centre of considerable commercial importance – the bulk of the materials used in the construction of Chambord Castle, for example, passed through here. During the Renaissance, Saint-Dyé enjoyed a period of particular prosperity, with artists, craftsmen and carpenters settling here

THE PORT No longer a harbour as such, it is now home to the Maison de la Loire and illustrates the prevailing spirit of Saint-Dyé-sur-Loire. The port was, however, very much the heart and soul of the village. During the Hundred Years’s War, food and other provisions were loaded onto

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freight barges here, destined for Orléans. Building materials for the construction of nearby Chambord Castle also came through here. Until the beginning of the early 1800s, this was very much the reference point for mercantile traffic along the river, and all the associated trade.

Hotels 3 Manoir Bel Air

in droves, and its workshops, hostels and inns popular with pilgrims, travellers and merchants. The river provided a key transport route for goods such as cotton, which from the late XVIII century onwards brought considerable wealth to an entire century. This Golden Age came to an end with the advent of mechanised industry; but to this day the village remains every bit as bewitching as it proved to artists such as the painter Léonor Fini and the photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson.

The best in brief 1 BASILICA

The church of Saint-Dyé’s-sur-Loire is nothing but striking against the relative size of its hamlet. The transformation of the original, humbler edifice took place in the XVI century, when it was adapted and extended at a time when craftsmen and workers engaged in the construction of Chambord Castle arrived here in droves. 45 m long and 15 wide, it emulates with its steeple the style of the Blois Cathedral bell tower. An eyecatching feature is the main altar, in Italian marble, added in the XIX century. During its restoration, an inscription was discovered on a wall, dating from the French Revolution, declaring its principles to the death: Liberté, Egalité, Unité, Indivisibilité mort. de la République Française ou la mort 2 MAISON DE LA LOIRE

The attractive house of Fonteneau (XVIII century), an early postal station decommissioned in 1760, is now home to the Maison de la Loire du Loir-et-Cher. This educational information centre focuses on the history of the Loire Valley up to its present day, illustrating aspects of everyday life in the region as well as its natural environment. 73 Route nationale, Tel. 02.54816807

EVENTS , Last weekend of June and first weekend of July, Sons et Lumières à Beaugency. The medieval burgh becomes an open-air theatre, recreating the fairy-tale atmosphere of bygone years through sound and light.

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From Saint-Dyé-sur-Loire To Blois From Saint-Dyé-sur-Loire one can either faithfully skirt the river, or veer inland via Chambord Castle – and little surprise that most will do just that. Leaving the Loire behind, we too go discover one of the most famous castles anywhere, cycling through a magnificent forest that almost appears to have been created for the two-wheeled traveller. The bikeway wends through vineyards and their wineries, offering ample opportunities to stop, sip and savour. The trail effectively follows the placid flow of the Cosson, a tributary of the Loire; after the chåteau, it flows into the ‘other’ Loire – a riverscape of tiny hamlets such as Huisseau-sur-Cosson and Vineuil, and then Blois, whose unmistakable skyline is mirrored in the waters, playing with their colours as the day glides from dawn to dusk. Another alternative lets you ‘lose yourself’ in the Forest of Russy and the local châteaux, and soak up their peace and romance. 1 CHÂTEAU DE CHAMBORD

Majestic and straight out of a fairy tale, the castle figures on every visitor’s must-see list in the Loire – a Renaissance masterpiece linked with the name of Francis I, who had it built not so much as a permanent residence, but rather as a royal hunting lodge in the heart of the Forêt de Boulogne. The original plan even proposed the re-routing the Loire, better to serve the castle. A façade of almost 130 m, 800 column capitals, 440 rooms and almost 80 staircases are but statistics to help us conceive the sheer scale of this stone colossus, a symbol of the French Renaissance. Leonardo da Vinci too contributed to the approved project, designing the grand double-spiralled staircase. It took over 20 years to build and sits surrounded by a wooded park of over 5,400 hectares. We would recommend the itinerary that follows

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the trail over the roofs, where one can breathe in the richness of a city in miniature, with stone glorifying the essence of beauty. In 1981 Chambord was added to the UNESCO list as an “eminent example of a type of construction or architectural, technological or landscape ensemble illustrative of one or more significant periods in human history”. Tel. 02.54504000, www.chambord.org 2 FORÊT DOMANIALE DE BOULOGNE

The green expanse surrounding Chambord Castle is a public forest of no less than 5,440 hectares, belted by a 32-km wall from the late 1500s. Riding through provides an experience of a lifetime: kilometres of total immersion in nature, within a protected environment. One of the Forestry Authority’s objectives is specifically the safeguarding of historical oaks and growing prized species. During the hours of dawn and dusk it is not uncommon to come across deer, boar and other forest wildlife. 3 CHÂTEAU DE VILLESAVIN

This was once the residence of Jean Le Breton, a Villandry grandee and Finance Secretary to Francis I, who was charged

with the all-important role of supervising the building works of Chambord château. This is a Renaissance castle with a symmetrical façade, which pre-dates the neo-classical style. It deserves a visit for its furnishings, provided by craftsmen from Florence and Chambord, and the chapel’s frescoes. In the Games Room, anyone with an interest in backgammon will find a rare early set. Villesavin, needless to say, is haunted and the braver may wish to seek out a spirit or two. Tel. 02.54464288, www.chateau-de-villesavin.fr

4 CHÂTEAU DE CHEVERNY

One of the Loire’s most precious châteaux, surrounded by a perfectly-manicured garden that could be a stage set. Its richness is largely due to its cohesive character, since it has remained in the Hurault family for centuries. Its construction was begun in 1604 and lasted no less than 30 years. The château’s architecture is particularly harmonious, by virtue of a carefully-balanced blend of classical, contemporary and English styles. The light stone façade by Bourré and slate roofs add an essential grace. The interior is a triumph of elegance with paintings, decorations and tapestries from Flanders.

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The château’s life is historically linked to deer hunting, a tradition upheld to this day by Viscount de Sigalas and his 100 hounds. 02.54799629, www.chateau-cheverny.fr

5 CHÂTEAU DE TROUSSAY

“Small is my home, but what joy when it fills with friends” are the words by Temistocles greeting the visitor at one of the entrances into Troussay Castle. Built in 1450 near Cheverny, this stone gem is the Loire’s smallest château. The Renaissance edifice was rebuilt in the XIX century with decorative features reclaimed from ruined châteaux in various parts of the region. This accounts for the fusion of styles: Renaissance stained glass, some from the Guise Palace at Blois; Louis XII tiling and a door from Bury Castle. The château now offers accommodation and the chance to taste the excellent wine produced here. Tel. 02.54442907, www.chateaudetroussay.com

6 CHÂTEAU DE BEAUREGARD

We find ourselves near Blois in the castle originally built by Francis I as a hunting lodge and subsequently transformed by Jean du Thiers, minister to Henry II. As well as for the magnificent park surrounding it, the château is also renowned for the Gallery of Portraits: this monumental space recounts three centuries of French history, spanning 1328 to 1643, with 327 portraits of famous personalities – not just French, either, with Henry VIII of England, Christopher Columbus and Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent also gracing the walls. Among the women we find Joan of Arc, Catherine de’ Medici and Isabeau of Bavaria. The gallery measures 150 sq mt and is decorated with fine Delft tiles; the wainscoting is in lapis lazuli blue. Tel. 02.54704165, www.beauregard-loire.com

7 FORÊT DOMANIALE DE RUSSY

“I drove back to Blois in the dark, some nine miles, through the forest of Russy [...] which, though consisting apparently of small timber, looked under the stars sufficiently vast and primeval. There was a damp autumnal smell and the occasional

sound of a stirring thing.” Thus was this magical forest described by Henry James in A Little Tour in France, in 1884. To this day, Russy is a dream of a place to immerse oneself in, unrushed, whether on foot or by bike. 8 CHÂTEAU DE GROTTEAUX

Simplicity, elegance and a philosophy of life inspired by sobriety are the values we sense from every stone in this château built in 1620 on the banks of the Cosson. It has been rated a national historical monument since 1954 and is now also appreciated for its hospitality. Though lapped by the gentle waters of the Cosson, it exudes an elemental energy, the nearby Grotteaux menhir bearing witness to a prehistoric settlement here. The interiors are remarkably well preserved, and the dining hall includes a maiolica stove made in Blois in 1892 in Ulysse Besnard’s workshop. Tel. 02.54520143, www.chateau-grotteaux.com

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Tourist Office Blois Chambord

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Blois Arriving in Blois on a bike is nothing short of exhilarating. The undulating landscape flattens out as we approach the broad Loire Valley, and the skyline is mirrored across the waters, demanding a stop before we cross the bridge to head for the centre. Blois shows the real face of the Loire and greets with elegance the visitor who arrives skirting the river. A riverside snack and apéritif at the Creusille port, awaiting the sunset, are a must: once the sun slips behind the roofs and belfries, the waters glow with its blaze and the city displays its most romantic countenance. The château itself is an equally memorable experience, with a sound and light show retelling the stories that have made it a theatre of plot, vendetta and bloodlust. Blois has played host to seven kings, ten queens and many a prince in exile; but the most celebrated guest of all here was Joan of Arc, in 1429. Blessed by the Archbishop of Reims, this is where she assembled the army with which she then went forth to liberate Orléans. A medieval heart and Renaissance beauty make Blois an unmissable stage of anyone’s voyage along the Loire. Blois is also the capital of the Loir-et-Cher département, and with it comes a particularly lively and sparkling community: the university is fast expanding, and the city’s commercial

TOURIST INFORMATION Blois Tourist Information Office 23, Place du Château, Blois - Tel. 02.54904141 - www.bloischambord.com

history can boast many a success story in the fields of IT, mechanical engineering, cosmetics and agriculture. In 1640 there were no less than 46 clock-makers. This is where in 1647 Denis Papin was born – the inventor of the first pressure cooker prototype. The historic Poulain chocolate bars hail from Blois, as does Paul Prédault ham, the Delphi HDI fuel injection system and Sisley cosmetics. Sheer hard graft and creativity are both defining traits of the Blois character – no surprise, perhaps, that the most famous of all French magicians, RobertHoudin came from this neck of the woods.

BLOIS GARDENS The Rose Garden in the Bishop’s Palace, in place Saint-Louis, is a triumph of colour, essence and perfume that bursts to life in spring – an ideal haven for relaxing and enjoying great views across town. The Medicinal Plants Garden, also known as Garden of the Five Senses, is found in the park behind the town hall: it was designed by secondary school pupils, and provides a sensory experience. Fruits, vegetables and medicinal herbs are the soul of the King’s Gardens: originally ordered by Louis

XII, they were redesigned in 1992 by landscape gardener Gilles Clément. They reinterpret the history of the château, dividing it into its three eras: Middle Ages, Renaissance and Classical. Fleur-de-lis, iris and daylilies are the French Royal flowers. The Garden of the Simple (Friars) shines for its aromatic, medicinal and seasoning herbs. In rue Vauvert, finally, in the old part of town and protected by boundary walls, is the Medicinal Plants Garden.

L O I R E VA L L E Y

BLOIS

History of the city Blois has been classed as a ‘City of Art and History’ since 1986, a recognition attributed by the Ministry of Culture to cities actively promoting their historic and cultural heritage through local institutions and individuals, to visitors and their own communities alike. Blois was born upon the remains of a prehistoric settlement and a consequential Gallo-Roman town in the III century AD. It raised its profile across the continent between the IX and X centuries, when it became the powerful County of BloisChampagne, before asserting itself as a Free Commune in the XII century. The city’s Golden Age started in the XIV century when it became part of the Duchy of Orléans, and was elevated to Royal City status in 1498, when Louis II of Orléans was crowned Louis XII of France. It remained the capital of the realm until the death of Francis I, in 1547. During this period, the medieval fortress gave way to the château, which became one of the symbols of the French Renaissance and residence of Charles of Orléans, the poet prince, and of Gaston of Orléans, who inspired the city’s botanical gardens. In 1791 the force of the Loire in flood swept away the original medieval bridge built across the river; eight years later it was rebuilt after a design by Ange Gabriel, architect to Louis XV. The Revolution took its toll on the city’s artistic heritage, but from 1790 onwards it département’s capital. The XIX century brought a became the département radical redesign to the city, with grand boulevards, administrative buildings such as the Palace of Justice, Préfecture,

LOIRE BY CANOE To give your legs a rest and your arms a workout. Discovering the river at water level puts the Loire in a different perspective. Enjoy a one-hour excursion or take the whole day, accompanied by a specialist guide. Loire Kayak-Lac de Loire, Vineuil Tel. 06.62901543 www.loirekayak.com

Seminary and the granary market. The arrival of the railways, in 1846, brought another huge change to the cityscape which, by virtue of the new and more efficient transport network, assumed a more industrial dimension; this coincided with the start of the Loire’s decline as a commercial route. Bombing raids in 1944 left their scars here, reducing much of the beauty to rubble. Reconstruction went apace, however, under the direction of the architect Charles Nicod, whose work included the recycling of flint and red brick, the building materials best identified with this area.

BLESSINGS AND CRIMES As well as the heart of Blois, the château is also a place of exceptional cultural importance. Two events that took place here have left a particular mark. In 1429 Joan of Arc had her standard blessed here, where she then assembled the army that would set off to liberate Orléans. On 23 November 1588 these halls witnessed the event which would mark the history of the

château more than any other: the assissination of the Duke of Guise, ordered by Henry III, and carried out by his ‘Forty-five’ swordsmen. The King had got wind of the plot hatched against himself by the Duke, and against the advice of his mother, Catherine de’ Medici, to negotiate a deal, the monarch decided to go ahead with the murder.

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The best in brief

BLOIS

1 CHÂTEAU ROYAL

Flying the flag for the city, the Loire Valley and French Renaissance, the château expresses a rare architectural richness by virtue of an unusual layering of styles dovetailing in harmony. The earliest, medieval part is in the Gothic style, accounting for the Hall of the General States, the Du Foix Tower and the ruins of the walls; the wing ordered by Louis XII is also Gothic but with a nod to the Renaissance, with its white stone façade and red brick – again a classic scarlet Gothic touch adorning the rooms which now house the Museum of Fine Arts. The more patently Renaissance section is the part ordered by King Francis I, with strong echoes of the Italianate taste of the time: an octagonal staircase and a helicoid vault, which symbolises the French Renaissance. Today it houses the lapidary museum, with its monumental statues. The Gaston of Orléans wing, finally, is one of the first French edifices in the neoclassical style, presenting three orders of arcades respectively designed in Doric, Ionic and Corinthian forms. This wing houses the civic library and is a venue for contemporary exhibitions, concerts and conferences. The château’s Sound and Light show should not be missed. Place du Château, Tel. 02.54903333, www.chateaudeblois.fr 2 HOUSE OF MAGIC

Do not leave Blois without visiting the House of Magic dedicated to Robert-Houdin, the legendary magician – a full immersion in the art of wizardry. Before entering, look out for the dragon sticking his six heads out of as many windows... The journey through the history of magic evolves through sophisticated optical illusions, displays and conjuring tricks that tease, reveal and surprise. The highlight of the visit is the magic and legerdemain show in the Christian Fechner Theatre. Place du Château, Tel. 02.54903333, www.maisondelamagie.fr 3 CATHEDRAL OF SAINT-LOUIS

Built in the X century as the Church of Saint-Solenne, it became a Cathedral in 1967. In the 1600s it was restructured and decorated in the Gothic style. It deserves a visit for its contemporary leaded windows, installed in 2000 by the Dutch artist Jan Dibbets, a prime exponent of European Conceptual Art.

L O I R E VA L L E Y

The Renaissance, the kings, the Loire’s royal pomp, the châteaux – all of these tell the story of this corner of France. But none, perhaps, does so in a more original way than a certain Jean Eugène Robert, born in Blois on 6 December 1805. He went by his nom-de-plume of Robert-Houdin, became one of the most famous illusionists in the world, was coined ‘the Innovator of the art of magic’ and to this day is considered the Father of modern magic. Had his art not gone quite to plan, he would probably have become one of the many clock-makers in Blois. The story goes that one day when he went to buy a book on the science of clock-making, the bookseller inadvertently gave him the Encyclopedic Dictionary of Scientific Amusements in Mathematics and Physics. The rest is history. From that moment onwards, the great Robert loses himself in the world of conjuring tricks, illusion and magic. His explosive creativity is barely containable, and so while the rest of the humanity lives in an ordinary world, he invents unknown objects such as an early alarm clock, an odometer, an incandescent lamp, a

retinoscope. He became famous through his Theatre of Fantastical Soirées in Paris, during which his audiences would go quiet, be amazed and remain enthralled by his tricks, such as his Ethereal Suspension, and Fantastical Cartoons. The House of Magic, opposite the château of Blois, is dedicated to him, as is the statue of a man extending his hand as if to show you something. The pedestal bears the words: Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin - 1805-1871 - prestidigitateur, horologer, mecanicien, inventeur, savant, ambassadeur, homme de lettres. Ambassador because Robert-Houdin also served his country well in this guise. Suffice to remember that during the FrancoAlgerian war in the mid-XIX century, Robert-Houdin was invited to ‘exhibit himself’ before some Algerians, thus demonstrating to any locals that French magicians were more effective than the African. The final part of his magical life was spent in his house at Saint-Gervaisla-Forêt, immersed in dreams and inventions, until – on a hot day June’s day in 1871 – he spirited himself away for good.

BLOIS

THE WIZARD OF BLOIS

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4 CREUSILLE PORT

BLOIS

A natural stage connecting you with the spirit of the river, before the skyline of Blois. A bustling corner of town it is too, with summertime concerts and events. Creusille is also a social venue par excellence, with its central place. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the port of Creusille de Blois also offers the possibility of sitting down for a good beer, or sipping the Loire wines while tucking into fried fish and crispy spuds.

EATING AND DRINKING

5 LE VESPA 11, Rue Vauvert - Place du Grenier à Sel, Tel. 02 54784497 Closed Sunday and Monday. A decent pizzeria also dishing up pasta and meat dishes. A compact terrace in the bijou square. Booking recommended. Good veggie and vegan choice. 6 LA GROLLE 36 Rue Foulerie - 5 Rue Vauvert Tel. 02 36236465 Closed Sunday and Monday. www.augreduvin-lagrolle.com With a handful of tables in the tiny square in summer. Booking recommended. Vegetarian dishes. 7 FOOD AND BREW 7 Rue du Poids du Roi Tel. 02 54460529, Open 7/7. foodandbrew.wixsite.com Ale house. Average food, Happy Hour. Inviting terrace. 8 LE CASTELET 40 Rue St Lubin, Tel. 09 70351460, Closed Sunday, www.castelet.fr Pocket-sized restaurant in the medieval quarter. French gastronomy in a house that has stood since the Middle Ages. Booking recommended.

9 LES JARDINS DE L’ÉVÊCÉ (behind the Cathedral) kiosk in delightful public gardens, with views across Blois and the Loire. Drinks/ice cream/sandwiches/crêpes. Open when the weather is fine. Toilets. 10 MISS GOURMAND 20 Rue du Palais Tel. 02 54589699 Closed evenings and Monday. Tea room/pâtisserie/lunch on the go. All home-made and ideal for a snack. Vegetarian/vegan and weekly menu. 11 LE DENIS PAPIN 25 Rue St-Honoré Tel. 02 54462712 Closed evenings and Sunday. Bar serving lunch. Attractive terrace and good beer. 12 BOULANGERIE OTTO-BRUC JACKY 32 Bis Avenue Maréchal Maunoury Tel. 02 54781034, Closed Monday. Bakery/pâtisserie/sandwiches/ savoury pies/mixed salads to take out. Located near the Novotel.

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, May, Mix’Terres. Multi-cultural festival brings the city to life with a range of events, from street art and music, to dance and modern circus skills – all contributing to cultural fusion. , June till end September, open-air Guinguette: on the left bank of the Loire: good beer/platters of cheese and meats/fried potatoes and fish. Ideal for apéritif and/or dinner. Fabulous views across the river and city. Open when the weather is fine. , Summer, Des Lyres d’Été. Concerts, street music, story-tellers, films, introduction to dance and plastic arts, circus skills, magic, fencing, astronomy; nature trails... in the most beautiful squares in town or at the Creusille port on the Loire: altogether some 200 events offering all and sundry the chance to discover new arts, skills, and sports. , October, Rendez-Vous de l’Histoire. The top cultural event at Blois, involving arond 30,000 people every year across four days of debates and lectures. Writers, historians, directors, journalists bang their heads together and present a theme chosen by a scientific committee. Literature along with film, documentaries and projections. , November, Festival BD Boum. Blois becomes the capital of comic strips, drawing thousands of visitors, who get the chance to meet over 150 authors and specialist publishers, and enjoy films, exhibitions and themed lectures

BLOIS

EVENTS

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L O I R E VA L L E Y

Once over the the bridge at Blois, we veer to the right, as the Royal City recedes from its riverine mirror. Our pace falls into step with the sedate flow of the Loire as we progress along its left bank, and the Loire à Vélo soon slips into the hills beyond. A brief detour through an enchanted forest leads us to the Boulangerie Marlau, near Chailles – a great chance for an early elevenses (with a later one to follow). The bikeway dances though hills, stately homes, country houses and vast prairies, alternating a lazy flat ride with sudden gear shifts as far as Candé-sur-Bevron – a village of stone which still breathes the air of the great river, barely a kilometre away. Rain or shine, stopping at the multi-awarded Maison Boulay-Parisse – a triumph of bread and pastry – is a must. Mounting back on our saddles is hard, but this gorgeous stage deserves it: continuing to Chaumont-sur-Loire, the castle materialises with its magnificent gardens – the venue for the themed International Garden Festival which takes place every year. The final part ushers us into the wine-scented Touraine, with opportunities to sample the local production and enjoy the experience of the troglodyte cellars. This stage, to Candé-sur-Beuvron, also marks the passage from AOC Cheverny to AOC Touraine, two of France’s top wine appellations. The arrival at Amboise is a poem inscribed in the vineyards, all wrapped with a spectacular downhill ride through the town’s ramps and dog-legged bends: a freewheel rush to the castle and the Loire itself, with that same breath of free spirit that Leonardo da Vinci too enjoyed here. 1 FORÊT DOMANIALE DE BLOIS

The forest of Blois is what survives of the vast, ancient Forest of Blémars, the green space that extended into much of the Touraine Gâtine until the XIII century. Man’s first intrusions date to the XI and XII centuries, when the monks from the Benedictine Abbey of Marmoutier cleared the woods to extend the original religious edifice – which had been established in 372, as willed by St Martin after his election to Bishop of Tours. In the XIV century the Forest of Blois was sold by the Counts of Blois to Louis I of Orléans – uncle to Louis XII, who was crowned

FROM BLOIS TO AMBOISE

From Blois to Amboise

L O I R E VA L L E Y

King of France in 1498. The forest has been State property since 1791.

FROM BLOIS TO AMBOISE

2 CHÂTEAU DE PIGÉONNIÈRE

Built in the XVII century on the site of a pre-existing fortified castle, Pigéonniere château was heavily damaged during the French Revolution. It was restored in 1858 and expanded to a design by Jules de la Morandière. Our Loire à Vélo wends into the realms of this castle, conceived as a central body flanked by two wings. There are both square and round turrets, a library decorated by Augustin Chenu and Ulysse Besnard, and three XVII-century stone chimneys – an ensemble that keeps itself far from the madding crowds, while duly appreciated by the unrushed cyclist along the Loire’s cycle path. 3 CHÂTEAU DE VILLELOUET AND FARM

Not far from the banks of the Cosson rises Villouet. Built in the XV century and reconstructed in the XVII, the château dons an essential and elegant architecture, characterised by the clear stone of the Loire. A notable feature is the chapel: it was built around 1830 on the ruins of the original one, which had been in Troubadour style and damaged in the course of the Revolution. The castle lies deep within a pleasant and peaceful park, enjoying the company of a farm that sports an equally eyecatching architecture.

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4 CHITENAY

5 CHÂTEAU DE FOUGÈRES-SUR-BIÈVRE

This château’s imposing and sobre architecture expresses itself with a chalky stone and the tuff of the Cher used for its sculpted embellishments. Muscular and elegant, it displays all

FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL DES JARDINS Inaugurated in 1992, the event showcases gardening at its most creative through landscaping, design, botanical science and green-fingered skills – as well as through the arts and crafts, notably music. Between May and October each year, new techniques and

materials – and originality of interpretation – from all corners of the world are presented within the park’s 30 spaces. 478 Le Château, Tel. 02.54209922 www.domaine-chaumont.fr/fr/ festival-international-des-jardins

FROM BLOIS TO AMBOISE

This village, with a community of a thousand or so, is easily reached with a minor detour from the main Loire à Vélo. At its heart is the parish complex of Notre-Dame de Chitenay, from the 1300s. From its humble beginnings in the XIV century, as a small church, it grew into the monumental edifice we see today, as a site of pilgrimage in honour of the Virgin Mary.

FROM BLOIS TO AMBOISE

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the character of a medieval fortress and sets itself apart from the majority of the Loire’s châteaux, which are essentially of the Renaissance era. Constructed in the XI century, the castle was taken by the English during the Hundred Years’ War; it was subsequently abandoned in 1429 and fell into ruin. New life was breathed into it in 1470, when PIerre de Refuge, counsellor to Charles of Orléans and treasurer to Louis XI, transformed it into a compact fortress. In more recent times (18121901) the château housed a spinning mill. 1 Rue Henri Goyer, Tel. 02.54202718 www.fougeres-sur-bievre.fr 6 CONTEMPORARY ART AT VALAIRE

MetamorphOZes is a contemporary arts centre featuring the work from a range of artists, embracing plastic arts, modern dance, music, theatre, literature and landscaping. To mark the 500th anniversary of Leonardo da Vinci’s death, the centre is also hosting a major exhibition to highlight the master’s own versatility and vision. The gardens dedicated to the Renaissance, to southern scents and to Japan should not be missed. Domaine du Prieuré, 8 Rue de l’Octroi, Valaire, Tel. 02.54441462 www.metamorphozes-artcontemporain.com

EATING AND DRINKING MAISON BOULAY-PARISSE 1 Rue des Cèdres, Candé-sur-Beuvron, Tel. 02 54440375

Open 07.00-19.30 (-13.00 on Sundays). Closed Monday. Good bakery/pâtisserie. Savoury pies.

7 CHÂTEAU DE CHAUMONT-SUR-LOIRE

This elegant and stern medieval fortress can only be reached by a drawbridge. Originally, from the year 1000 onwards, it served as a fort to guard the border between the counties of Blois and Anjou. But the château’s story effectively began in 1465, with a fire, when Louis XI had the estate razed to punish Pierre d’Amboise for supporting the League of the Public Weal. After its rebirth, it was acquired in 1550 by Catherine de’ Medici, who, in turn, ceded it to Diane de Poitiers in exchange for the Chenonceau estate. During those years, Catherine is also known to have consulted a number of astrologers here, including Nostradamus. The Count of Aramon and Viscount Walsh owned the château in the XIX century, while in 1875 the Broglie family lived here, enjoying many a social soirée of colourful excess. Four decades on, fortune having turned her back on the Broglies, they sold the château to the State in 1938. It is graced by an extraordinary park numbering 26 gardens; they are classed as jardins remarquables (Gardens of Outstanding Interest) by the Ministry of Culture, and are now home to the Festival des Jardins. Le Château, Tel. 02.54209922, www.domaine-chaumont.fr

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Amboise From this point on, the Loire Valley simply becomes more and more beautiful. Amboise is a voyage through time and space, for many the ideal fusion of Mother Nature and Man; and it is perhaps fitting that the city flies the flag for the beauty of the Renaissance and Leonardo’s creative genius – 2019 marking the 500th anniversary of his death. Timber-framed houses, squares, alleyways and courtyards all shape the map of Amboise, with its river and castle their centre of gravity. This is where its heart beats today, and always has done – from the accidental death of Charles VIII in 1560, to Leonardo’s own passing, to the slaughter of the Amboise Conspiracy plotters (also in 1560). This is also a particularly welcoming stop for anyone riding along the Loire à Vélo.

History of the city The Middle Ages were a significantly tumultuous time for Amboise on account of the Norman incursions, until the city came into the fold of the Counts of Anjou. The tables turned drastically after 1431, when the medieval fortress was transformed into a royal residence. Luxurious and refined spaces were the hallmark of Queen Charlotte, who could count on a menagerie of some 150 courtiers. The château then served as

a residence to Charles VIII who, while still only 13 years of age, welcomed here the three-year-old Margaret of Austria, his future wife. In 1491, Charles’ remarriage (to Anne of Britanny) also initiated the works that would transform the castle ‘into a proper city’ – a project that never reached completion, however, due to his sudden death in 1498. With King Francis I, however, the château and the Court of Amboise would shine once again, attracting artists and personalities of European fame: Leonardo first and foremost, who spent the last years of his life at the Clos Lucé Manor, and whose remains rest in the nearby Chapel of Saint-Hubert; the Emperor Charles V and the Sun King himself, Louis XIV; the Sheik Abd el-Kader (in custody) and Napoleon III, to name but a few. During the Revolution, the château was requisitioned and used first as barracks, and later as a button factory. Since the end of the Second World War, it has been restored a number of times and, since 1974, administered by the Saint-Louis Foundation, which manages it to this day.

TOURIST INFORMATION Office de Tourisme Val d’Amboise Quai du Général de Gaulle - Tel. 02 47570928 - www.amboise-valdeloire.com

L O I R E VA L L E Y

The best in brief

AMBOISE

1 CHÂTEAU ROYAL D’AMBOISE

A beauty to behold – and, no doubt, to live in, in the heyday of the French royal family. The château towers over the city’s rooftops and embraces the great river as it glides to the Atlantic. Halls and corridors, paintings and original furnishings, terraces and hanging gardens all grace this corner of France. The trails through the wings of Charles VIII are fascinating, in their Gothic flamboyant style, as are Louis XII’s rooms in their Renaissance style. The royal chapel of Saint-Hubert – also a masterpiece of Gothic flamboyant architecture and an integral part of the whole monumental complex – deserves a visit too, not least because it houses the tomb of Leonardo. An underground passage connects the château with Clos Lucé Manor, where the Italian master lived his final days. Tel. 02 47570098, 02 47575223, www.chateau-amboise.com 2 CHÂTEAU DU CLOS LUCÉ

Welcome to Leonardo da Vinci’s final abode, having been invited to Amboise by Francis I in 1516, when the king’s ‘First painter, engineer and architect’ was already 64 years of age. This Renaissance castle, constructed in brick and tuff, is surrounded by a six-hectare park. A trail highlights Leonardo’s

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ingenious inventions and work, such as his 16 gigantic ‘Machines’, and his 32 sketches and canvasses. This is where the illustrious Tuscan died on 2 May 1519. 2 Rue du Clos Lucé, Tel. 02 47570073, www.vinci-closluce.com 3 PARC MINI-CHATEAUX

All of the Loire’s top châteaux are recreated here in miniature, on a 1/25 scale. 40 models meticulously reproduce the edifices within a two-hectare park, which is also the venue for a host of themed events during the summer. Boulevard Saint-Denis Hors, La Menaudière, Tel. 02.47234457 www.parcminichateaux.com

Rue Nationale, Tel. 02 47234742. 5 CHURCH OF SAINT-DENIS

One of the most attractive in Amboise, this gem of Romanesque architecture rises on a site originally dedicated to pagan worship – probably the cult of the god Dionysius. It was built by St Martin of Tours in the IV century as a basilica and given its current guise in the XII. The portal is crowned with the head of an angel and a statue of St Denis. Rue Saint-Denis, Tel. 02 47234742. 6 MAX ERNST FOUNTAIN

The German painter and sculptor Max Ernst was a naturalised Frenchman. As a foremost exponent of Surrealism, in 1966 he was invited by the then Mayor of Amboise, Michel Debré, to design a fountain for the city. His creation is a 40-ton sculpted rock, featuring a human figure spreading its wings like the bird of the Genius of the Liberty in Place de la Bastille – a creature representing the free spirit of Ernst. It looks towards the castle of Clos Lucé, a powerful symbol of the birth of a New World – literally, the Renaissance.

AMBOISE

4 CLOCK TOWER - TOUR DE L’HORLOGE

Now a symbol of Amboise, in the XV century the tower served as the main gate into the heart of the city. We find it in rue Nationale, a bustling pedestrianised street which leads to the castle square. The clock was fitted in 1500 by public subscription. Until the XVIII century it also functioned as a mill, know as the ‘Alms’ Mill’.

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EATING AND DRINKING

AMBOISE

7 PÂTISSERIE BIGOT 2 Rue Nationale/Place Michel Debre, Tel. 02 47570446 www.maison-bigot-amboise.com The greedier among us may as well give in and head straight for the Pâtisserie Bigot, a temple for lovers of chocolate and pastries of the Loire. The institution has thrived since 1913 and is a fine place to enjoy the Pavé royal, Tarte Tatin and the Éclair-super-farcite. All else failing, a croissant dunked in their hot chocolate soon brings a smile.

8 CAVES DUHARD 56 Rue des Roches des Violettes Tel. 02 47572077 www.caves-duhard.fr A deservedly popular winery, offering a visit through the cellars and a restaurant where, as well as the wine, guests can sample the local delicacies. The historic motto of Caves Duhard goes: ‘A wine is first and foremost pleasure.’ The wines of the Touraine have enjoyed their reputation for centuries, and this particular winery – which has been in the Duhard family for three generations – dates from the XVI century.

EVENTS , July and August, The ‘Prophecy of Amboise’: in the château’s park, a sound and light show created by the celebrated set designer, Damien Fontaine. An imaginary voyage through the pomp and plots of Charles VIII’s court. This is a show on a grandiose scale, with no fewer than 250 extras on stage, presenting a clever fusion of multimedial sequences and live scenes on a truly epic scale.

Although Loire à Vélo,, from Amboise, continues along the Loire to reach Montlouis-sur-Loire, this stage would realistically include the detour to Chenonceau Castle, one of the Loire’s landmarks. This involves an hour’s ride through the Forest of Amboise, an added attraction and every bit as enjoyable as the château itself. From Chenonceau onwards we follow the course of the Cher, through a landscape of woodland, cultivated fields and ancient mills – the one at Azay-sur-Cher worthy of a picture-postcard. The stretch from Chenonceau Bridge to Bléré, Chandon, Azay-sur-Cher and Veretz is one of the most scenic of the entire tour. At Véretz, a quintessentially Lorrain village on the river, we veer inland and take on a slightly challenging – if not too long – climb up to the burgh of Clairault. The ride eases near Cangé Castle, which leads to the drop into the urban neighbourhood of Saint-Aventin; here we resume our itinerary along the waters of the Cher, along the bikeway that heads straight into the town of Tours – a far cry, for the moment, from our forests, countryside, vineyards, mills and hamlets. Tours exudes a metropolitan air, and to reach the city’s ancient heart, we first cycle through the commercial area that joins the banks of the Cher and the Loire, busy and bustling. Tours, effectively a peninsula, also joins the two rivers.

FROM AMBOISE TO TOURS

From Amboise to Tours

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CHER RIVER BY CANOE accompany us all the way, whether for just an hour or a whole day. 3 Rue de l’Écluse sur le Cher, Chivray-Chenonceaux, Tel. 06.37018992, www.canoe-company.fr

FROM AMBOISE TO TOURS

Seductive as the bikeway is along the banks of the Cher, experiencing the river from a canoe is every bit as alluring. The strokes are lazy, the waters seemingly still, and the silence and sighs of the forest

1 CHÂTEAU DE CHENONCEAU

An icon of the Loire and of France itself, this château is one of the country’s most visited sites, along with the Palace of Versailles and Chambord Castle. We would recommend timing the visit sensibly to avoid the crowds. None of this ever detracts from the beauty of the castle, however, and its harmonious setting – in effect a glorious bridge over the Cher. It was built in 1513 by Thomas Bohier for his wife, Cathérine Briçonnet, whose involvement in the planning was significant. Chenonceau is also known as the ‘Château des Dames’ on account of the string of ladies associated with it: Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de’ Medici – respectively lover and wife of Henry II – both resided here; followed by Louise of Lorraine, Madame Dupin and Madame Pelouze. Dupin stands out for having

saved the château from destruction during the Revolution, and among her guests she welcomed Voltaire, Montesquieu and Jean-Jacques Rousseau. The feminine side of this château, which mirrors itself in the waters of the Cher, translates into the harmony of the architecture, with Gothic and Renaissance blending through the tapestries, furnishings, works of art (Correggio, Tintoretto and Rubens), gardens and botanical orchard. Tel. 08.20209090, www.chenonceau.com 2 CHÂTEAU DE CANGÉ

Towering over the Cher Valley, it is immersed in a 15-hectare park. The story of Cangé is little different from that of many other stately homes in the Loire – up until 1978. Originally built by the Andigné family in the XIII century, it passed hands repeatedly over time. In 1978, on the night when spring turned

EATING AND DRINKING

LA CHARBONNETTE 17, Rue du Pont, Bléré Tel. 02 47302976 Open Tues-Sun 12.00-14.00 and 19.00-22.00. Closed Monday.

www.lacharbonnette-blere.com Restaurant/pizzeria. An excellent pizza from a wood-fired oven. Eat in or take out.

to summer, a fire all but gutted the château. After years of neglect, the local authority finally launched a restoration plan in 2010. Within two years, Cangé was offering a multimedia library, a music school and a recreation centre serving a host of local associations and the community at large. The events calendar is invariably packed, and for bike lovers the park is a joy to explore. Rue de Cangé, Saint-Avertin, Tel. 02.34368108 bibliotheque.ville-saint-avertin.fr 3 GRAND AQUARIUM DE TOURAINE

The visit to this aquarium is highly recommended for families; it is conveniently located along the shorter route along the river Loire, thus avoiding the Amboise forest and the Chenonceau castle. In the Grand Aquarium de Touraine you will have the chance to meet the inhabitants of the river: thanks to its 30-metre long glass tunnel, you can walk below the species living in the river Loire. Other tanks will let adults and children discover the marine species, too. Lieu dit les Hauts Boeufs, 37400 Lussault-sur-Loire www.grandaquariumdetouraine.com

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TOURS

Tours Welcome to the heart of the Touraine, a city skirted by both the Cher and the Loire. Tours is the capital of a land scented with wine, that has welcomed the wayfarer since time immemorial. Life slows down here, and so too the pace of our pedalling; yet Tours beats with a pulse that exudes art de vivre and the romance that envelopes the surrounding villages, countryside, bistrots and châteaux. This is a lively and cultured city of squares, courtyards, alleyways and parks, where the visitor can easily find privacy and peace; it also abounds in cafés, winebars and restaurants which speak of a lifestyle closely associated with its status as the ‘Garden of France’. Fruits, vegetables and cheese are plentiful, while the wines are top quality and varied: from sparkling to fortified, the AOL appellation counts a good ten labels – among them the red Chinon and Bourgueil; and the white Montlouis-sur-Loire and Vouvray. The old part of Tours holds its soul, gravitating around place Plumereau and the Cathedral of Saint-Gatien. Many houses are timber-framed, a reminder of their medieval roots. Though numbering little more than 120,000 citoyens, Tours is well and truly cosmopolitan, gelled with a diverse society of residents,

TOURIST INFORMATION Tourist Office Tours Loire Valley 78-82 Rue Bernard Palissy, Tours - Tel. 02 47703737, www.tours-tourisme.fr

History of the city Tours has served as the capital of France on no less than three occasions: with Louis XI ‘The Prudent’, during the second half of the XV century; in 1870, during the dramatic Franco-Prussian War, when the government left Paris; and in 1940, during the Nazi invasion, when the government in flight from Paris was briefly stationed here before settling in Vichy. The city’s history began around 50 BC, when it was the site of Caesarodum, a colony which was later renamed Civitas Turonum – LE FRANÇAIS PUR Tours can boast the DNA of a small cultural capital, and Les Tourangeaux (inhabitants of Tours) are dead proud to be considered the speakers of the purest French in the land. Or almost. This attribute finds its roots in the XV and XVI centuries,

when the Royal Court of France was based here. The local pronunciation was classed as the purest; and so it remained until the XIX century, when the least infected delivery was deemed to be that of the Parisian bourgeoisie.

TOURS

students and tourists from every corner. Art is the lingua franca here, with a rich programme of events and exhibitions at an international level.

TOURS

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hence the name Tours. In the III century AD, the city became a significant religious centre, by virtue of Saint-Gatien’s evangelising work; the cathedral is dedicated to this saint. During the following century, Saint Martin continued with this mission, spreading the Word among the local communities. The cave where he had dwelt and his tomb soon became sites of pilgrimage – so much so that an urban neighbourhood came into being nearby, bearing his name: Martinopolis. This would merge with the Roman centre over the V and VI centuries, to form Tours. In 732 AD the city marked history by stemming the Arab advance with Charles Martel’s epoch-making victory over the Infidel. In the X century the city and its new Basilica of St Martin were belted with a protective wall. In 845 and 853, however, the Vikings stormed the city, which at first resisted adequately, but was then pillaged. In the course of the Hundred Years’ War, a further wall (the fourth) linked the religious heart of Tours, Châteauneuf, with the administrative quarter. Under Louis XI, the city – now a capital – enjoyed a remarkable economic growth as a hub specialising in goldsmithing, embroidery and silk, attracting craftsmen and artists at the dawn of the French Renaissance. By the same token, once the Royal Court packed its bags in the XVII century, the city slid into a steady decline. The ‘Stone Bridge’ inaugurated in 1779 nonetheless flew a proud flag for its century; also of its time (1787) is the monumental rue Royale, now avenue Grandmont and rue Nationale. The Revolution had a profound impact, starting with the total destruction of the Basilica of St Martin. The mayor Walvein was at the centre of another modernising

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transformation inthe 1840s, overseeing the construction of new public buildings and an expansion in the clay, silk and printing industries. Architects of fame such as Victor Laloux and Jean-Marie Hardion contributed with projects like the Saint-Pierre-des-Corps railway station, the town hall, the new Basilica of St Martin and Civic Theatre. The two World Wars wreaked destruction and instability, and told the tragic story of many a refugee. The most recent and defining rebirth was kick-started by the mayor Jeay Royer in 1959, with the relaunch of the new Industrial area, achieved while safeguarding and capitalising on the old Vieux-Tours, to this day a jewel in France’s crown.

The best in brief

2 CATHEDRAL OF SAINT-GATIEN

It took five good centuries to complete this architectural masterpiece of flamboyant Gothic, built on the site of an ancient Romanesque church. The contrast between the exterior – embellished with carvings and decorations – and the interior – sobre and austere – is one of the Cathedral’s most striking features. The rose and leaded windows light up the spaces, the most attractive (and least damaged by man or weather) being the ones around the choir. They date from the XIII century, and among the stories they retell are the childhood and Passion of Christ, and the lives of St Peter, St Martin and the archbishops of Tours. Inside are the tombs of Charles VIII’s children, Charles (who died aged 25 days) and Charles Orland (aged three).

TOURS

1 PLACE PLUMEREAU

If Tours is a bon vivant’s paradise, Place Plumereau, in the heart of Vieux-Tours, is where the Good Life is felt at its brightest. Within a natural stage-set of timber-framed houses and cobbled alleyways, exuding all the intimacy of the old town, a vibrant and cosmopolitan community make this salon all the more welcoming – and one of the most iconic spots along our voyage. A snack, glace, lunch or dinner are all in order here, to experience the local wine and food within an ideal ambience. The neighbourhood was formerly known as Carroi-aux-Chapeaux because this is where flowers were once sold for decorating hats.

L O I R E VA L L E Y

These were originally in the Basilica of St Martin which was razed during the Revolution. A tour around the Cathedral should include the apse and the façade, both worth the effort. 1 Rue Racine, Tel. 02.47702100, www.paroisse-cathedrale-tours.fr 3 BASILICA OF SAINT MARTIN

All that remains of the original basilica destroyed during the Revolution is a tower. The current one, which enshrines what has been a site of pilgrimage since the Middle Ages, was built in 1924 in a Byzantine-Romanesque style. St Martin’s tomb has been recreated in the crypt. To this day, the Basilica is one of the most visited sites in Tours. 1 Rue Descartes, Tel. 02.47056387, www.basiliquesaintmartin.fr 4 CHÂTEAU DE TOURS

Conceived as a stately home in the IX century, it has since been reconstructed countless times, losing its original scope. The castle now stands as a symbol of the city’s Carolingian

TOURS

GOURMAND HEAVEN The gluttons in our midst have a legitimate reason for visiting the capital of Touraine. Rillettes and Rillons with Sainte-Maure goat’s milk cheese are a must; so too, Fouaces baked in a wood-fired oven and washed with a noble wine – Vouvray

or Chinon, perhaps. Tours is a particularly convivial town, and although fine food and wine are never too far away, Les Halles market and the open-air guinguette joints along the Loire are where it all comes to life. Enjoy the music too.

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architecture – i.e. typical of Charlemagne’s Frankish era – and is part of a fortified complex integrated with the Gallo-Roman walls. It houses the Touraine History Musem, right by the river. The most significant events associated with the château are the wedding of Mary of Anjou and Charles VII in 1413, and the triumphal reception of Joan of Arc upon her return from victory over the English at Orléans. 5 HOTEL GOÜIN

Ernest Goüinwas the last owner of the unusual edifice found at 25 rue du Commerce. This is a potted history of architecture: originally a Gallo-Roman construction which was destroyed in the III century, it was replaced by a medieval dwelling, only to be transformed again by Jean de Xaincoings, Treasurer to Charles VII. In the XVI century it was redesigned in Renaissance style by René Gardette, a wealthy silk merchant. To this day, it flaunts two elegant Renaissance façades. 25 Rue du Commerce, Tel. 02.47314336, www.hotelgouin.fr

L O I R E VA L L E Y

6 MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS

Near the Cathedral and housed in the Archbishops’ Palace (XVII century – one of Tours’ historic buildings), the museum is one of the most prestigious in France. Draped with Tours silk, the salons display both temporary exhibitions and a permanent collection which includes Monet, Rembrandt and Mantegna. 18 Place François Sicard, Tel. 02.47056873 www.mba.tours.fr 7 MUSÉE DU COMPAGNONNAGE

Housed in the former Abbey of Saint-Julien de Tours, this is an uncommon museum, the word Compagnonnage loosely translated here as mentoring, or skills development. For the last eight centuries, the Compagnonnage workers’ institution has passed on its priceless knowledge to generation after generation. Textiles, hides, metal and stone; charts, instruments, tools and archives; traditions and achievements of the Compagnonnage – all find a voice here.

TOURS

1 Place Prosper Mérimée, Tel. 02.47216220 www.museecompagnonnage.fr

EATING AND DRINKING

8 LES HALLES DE TOURS 1 Place Gaston Paillhou Tel. 02 47390489 Open Mon-Sat 7am-5pm and Sun 7am-1pm leshallesdetours.fr The indoor market of Tours to satisfy eyes and belly. Cheeses, meats, wines and more. 9 AU CHIEN JAUNE 74 Rue Bernard Palissy Tel. 02 47051017, Closed Sunday. lechienjaunetours.wordpress.com Classic bistrot serving French fare. Booking recommended.

10 CAFÉ LEFFE TOURS Place du Général Leclerc (near the station of Tours) Tel. 02 47648445 Open 7/7 06.30-22.30. www.cafeleffe-tours.fr Brasserie with a moreish beer. Snappy service offering French dishes and burgers all day. Best to book for large numbers. Happy hour Mon to Fri 18.00-20.00, with beers at half price.

L O I R E VA L L E Y

EVENTS

TOURS

, February, June and November, Fêtes Musicales en Touraine: classical music festival. , May-June, Florilège Vocal de Tours: international coral competition www. florilegevocal.com , Mid-May till end September, Open-air Guinguette: bar/restaurant/ concerts/chilling on the bank of the Loire, before the bridge at the far end of Avenue Nationale: platters of cheese/meats plus restaurant menu. Open when the weather is fine. , Mid-May to mid-September, Sound & Light show at Tours Cathedral. , May-September, Tours on the Loire: films and open-air events with a spread of rustic restaurants along the riverbanks. , Last weekend in May, VitiLoire:: a fair gathering some 150 local wine producers, to taste and trade their latest tipples. , First weekend in September, VVR-Vignes Vins Randos:: winetasting and hiking through the vineyards, accompanied by the local producers www.vvr-valdeloire.fr , July, Garlic and Basil Fair:: close encounters of the aromatic kind, and a dash of arts and crafts thrown in – with white, purple and pink garlic gracing the stalls, along with a host of basil varieties. , September, Tours 10 and 20 km Run:: an event open to all and sundry, drawing some 10,000 runners as the town cheers on and celebrates.

Chinon

Beaumonten-Véron

Avoine

Néman

Cravantsles-Côteaux

Rivarennes 4

Neuil

Villainesles-Rochers

Saché

Thilouze

Monts

Villeperdue

Pontde-Ruan

Artannessur-Indre

A 85

SaintGenouph

Savonnières

Druye

Villandry

Azay-leRideau

Vallères

Lignièresde-Touraine

Luynes

Saint-Étiennede-Chigny

Cinq-Marsla-Pile

Mazièresde-Touraine

Langeais

Bréhémont

Saint-Michelsur-Loire

RignyUssé

oire

Huismes

Restigné

La Chapellesur-Loire

Bourgueil

Benais

Les Essards

Continvoir

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Sorigny

Montbazon

Larcay

SaintBranchs

5 km

Esyres

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Chambraylès-Tours

Tours

L O I R E VA L L E Y

We leave the bijou capital of Touraine via the bridge of Pont du Lac, which flies over the waters of the Cher and lands near the park of Lac de la Bergeonnerie. Loire à Vélo skirts the university’s Engineering College and follows the left bank of the Cher, the start of an exceptionally scenic stage on our tour. The first 15 km follow the lively flow of the Cher, through countryside, woodland and rural neighbourhoods. At Savonnières, the waters – as if mesmerised to a standstill – mirror the village in a picture-postcard scene, the port adding to the timeless romance of the Loire with the Navy’s traditional craft: time, surely, for a crêpe au chocolat along the embankment. Our next photo opportunity comes up soon with the XII-century church of Saint-Gervais, with its famed portal of three overlapping arches in light stone, sculpted with figures of foliage, fauna and demons. As we leave the hamlet we can also take in the petrified limestone caves: here, in these yawning chambers shaped by water over time, humans too – from the XIX century onwards – have applied their own art, creating man-made petrified forms. The bikeway continues in perfect solitude as far as Villandry and its XVI-century château, celebrated for its gardens. Not long now before the Cher crashes into the Loire – their point of confluence, Bec du Cher, nothing short of Nature’s own drama. At Bréhémont we find the Cabane à Matelot restaurant and, right on its riverbank, one of the most enticing ‘salons’ in the world: a handful of easy chairs, there to help you dream away. Another few kilometres of slow, easy pedalling and we reach the fairytale castle of Ussé, which is said to have inspired Charles Perrault’s Sleeping Beauty. The dream continues in the cocooned atmosphere of Chinon Forest, along the rough but unchallenging track that follows the flood-plain of the Indre. It then folds to the right towards the hill of Huismes: not far now to Chinon, yet another jewel in the Loire à Vélo crown. 1 SAVONNIÉRES PETRIFIED CAVES

These limestone chambers with stalactites, stalagmites, undulating shapes, hanging ‘drapes’ and pillars of calcite have

FROM TOURS TO CHINON

From Tours to Chinon

FROM TOURS TO CHINON

been open to the public since 1966. The Loire’s light stone offers a remarkable show throughout the underground trail, which ends in glory with a tasting of Touraine wines. The shapes have been sculpted by nature and man alike: the dense, chalky water dripping from above runs over any object below it; within a year or so, a layer of crystallised silica forms a ‘sculpture’ with bas-reliefs shaded from pure white to yellow ivory. 61 Route des Grottes Pétrifiantes, Tel. 02.47500009 www.grottes-savonnieres.com 2 CHÂTEAU DE VILLANDRY

This masterpiece of Renaissance aesthetic was built in 1536 by Jean le Breton, Finance Minister to Francis I and supervisor of the Chambord Castle construction. The château owes its popularity to its gardens: six hectares of Ars Topiaria, the art of pruning trees and shrubs to create sculptures and geometrical figures. There are six altogether: the Vegetable Garden (Potager), cultivated according to the style and technique of the monastic communities, who even centuries ago would alternate the planting beds year on year, to allow the soil to regenerate. The Ornamental Garden is defined by the geometry of its boxwood shrubs, which burst into bloom with carnations, pansies and tulips in spring; and red and yellow roses in summer – the whole bouquet portraying love in its various

guises, from tender and capricious, to fiery and tragic. Then we have the Aquatic Garden, the Medicinal Herbs, the Maze and the Sun Garden.

3 CHÂTEAU DE LANGEAIS

This imposing yet refined château flaunts a double architectural soul: the Tower of Foulques Nerra (considered the oldest fortified keep in France) and Louis XI’s castle are medieval on the façade that looks out onto the town; but Renaissance on the courtyard side. It is well worth a hike along the ramparts, with their magnificent views across the town and the river. Originally the fortress of Fulk III, the Black, Count of Anjou (X century), the château was built on this site between 1465 and 1470 by Jean Bourré (who administered Louis XI’s patrimony), and displays precious furniture and tapestries. The Wedding Hall, which symbolises the union between France and Brittany, is a main attraction, as is the frescoed Banqueting Hall. Place Pierre de Brosse, Tel. 02.47967260 www.chateau-de-langeais.com 4 CHÂTEAU DE AZAY-LE-RIDEAU

“A cut diamond, set in the Indre, raised on stilts and masked by flowers” is how the writer Honoré de Balzac describes this

FROM TOURS TO CHINON

3 Rue Principale, Tel. 02.47500209 www.chateauvillandry.fr

L O I R E VA L L E Y

château – one of the most attractive of the Renaissance, elegant and balanced in its architecture. It is indeed perfectly set within its landscape, an island surrounded by the waters of the Indre, which becomes a mirror when the breeze drops. Azay-le-Rideau too started life as a fort (in the XII century), to guard the Tours-Chinon road; it was transformed to Renaissance principles in 1510 by Gilles Berthelot, mayor of Tours and treasurer to Francis I. Rue de Pineau www.azay-le-rideau.fr

FROM TOURS TO CHINON

5 CHÂTEAU DE USSÉ

A triumph of ‘architecture in movement’, with its towers, roofs and other features, this château is wrapped in an idyllic environment of thick woodland and an ample valley, which provides a bed to both the Indre and the Loire. Little surprise that it has inspired artists and writers in their droves, first and foremost Charles Perrault, master of the fairy tale. So struck was he by this château, that in 1697 it inspired Sleeping Beauty. Constructed in 1040, it has undergone several transformations in the course of its life, including the demolition of the north wing in 1600 to allow a bolder view across the Valley of the Loire. The gardens were commissioned to André Le Nôtre, the landscape gardener of Versailles and Louis XIV’s favourite ““jardinier”. To this day, the gardens include citrus groves planted before the Revolution. Rigny-Ussé, Tel. 02.47955405 www.chateaudusse.fr

PIERRE & BERTRAND COULY 20 hectares of vineyards and a family for whom wine has been the raison d’être ever since the XV century, form the plot to this story on the hills of Chinon. For Pierre and Bertrand Couly, wine production is a cultural choice strengthened by environmental sustainability and biodiversity. Cabernet Franc is the leading grape of this winery, which

produces quality AOC Chinons such as the rosé, some pure Cabernet Franc reds and a 100% Chenin Blanc white. Pierre and Bertrand are passionate about their bottles – and no shrinking violets during the tastings either! Route de Tours, Rond-Point des Closeaux, Tel. 02.47936419, www.pb-couly.com

L O I R E VA L L E Y

Chinon Beauty and personality, elegance and charme:: words that sum up this small and welcoming town gathered at the foot of an iconic French fortress and spread along the banks of the Vienne, a confluent of the Loire. These are lands of broad horizons and precious vineyards yielding wines of strength and body – Cabernet Franc, the blood that flows through the veins of a robust yet sensitive earth. As the cyclist arrives in Chinon from the open countryside and makes for the fort, first up is the burgh and its cellars – all the more enjoyable on two wheels here, where time has stood still and fine food and wine are there to be savoured.

Once part of the Visigoth Kingdom, Chinon had been a principal centre of coin-minting since the VII century when – in the X century – with the Vikings at the gates, the mint was transferred to Tours. The city’s history predictably revolves around its ancient fort, which is built on the site of a previous defensive edifice constructed by the Plantagenet Henry II, Count of Anjou and King of England from 1154. Jacques de Molay, Grand Master of the Order of the Knights Templar, was imprisoned here, before being burnt at the stake in Paris; and this is where

TOURIST INFORMATION Azay Chinon Loire Valley 1 Rue Rabelais, Tel. 02 47931785 - www.azay-chinon-valdeloire.com

CHINON

History of the city

7 8 9 10 11

Hotels Hôtel Agnes Sorel Best Western Hotel de France Hotel Le Plantagenet Hotel Diderot Hotel Ibis Styles Chinon

Restaurants and Pubs 5 Patisserie Ayrole 6 Fournil du château

1 2 3 4

Monuments and historical sites Historic centre Forteresse Royale Chapel of Sainte-Radegonde Caves M Plouzeau

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L O I R E VA L L E Y

Charles VII, during the Hundred Years’ War, welcomed Joan of Arc in 1429. Centuries of decline followed, reaching its nadir in the early XVII century, when the fort fell into ruin. Condemned to demolition in 1840, it was saved at the death by the author, archaeologist and historian, Prosper Mérimée, who championed its true worth. Restoration was underway by 1857, and the initiative ushered in a significant turn in Chinon’s fortunes too. The most recent works, in 2003-2010, have breathed new life into the fort, pride and joy of every Chinonais.

The best in brief 1 HISTORIC CENTRE

Losing oneself in the alleyways of Chinon is by far the best way of exploring this labyrinthine village, and sooner or later one of its attractions will appear before you: behold the Palais du Bailliage,, the ancient Court of Justice; or the Grand Carroi Carroi, at the heart of the burgh’s oldest quarter. The Impasse des Caves-Painctes is a trail through the ‘Painted’ cellars where wine has been matured since the 1500s, and where to this day the Confraternity of Vintners hold their ceremonies. 2 FORTRESSE ROYALE

CHINON, WINE AND HUMANISM Chinon’s AOC is rated among the top appellations in France. It expresses itself with the essences and perfumes of the Cabernet Franc, the territory’s own prized grape. To uncork a bottle of Chinon, they say, is to drink a bottle that has remained faithful to Rabelais, the writer who flies the flag for French Humanism. Having been produced

here for over a millennium, this wine has long been associated with Chinon’s history and culture; festivals, conferences, tasting events and themed excursions are part and parcel of life here. Syndicat des Vins de Chinon, Impasse des Caves Painctes, tel. 02.47933044, www.chinon.com

CHINON

Towering over the bridges of Chinon, the castle-fortress consists of three distinctive parts: the Château du Milieu (‘Middle Castle’), Fort Saint-Georges and Fort du Coudray. The fort is surrounded by a moat and a defensive wall, which is spaced out by

L O I R E VA L L E Y

five towers, including the Clock Tower; the latter provides spectacular views across the countryside and is also the main gate into the castle. The royal residence comprises four floors, with several rooms used as exhibition spaces. The Hall of the Throne, symbol of royal power, should not be missed; and likewise the wax statues of Charles VII and Joan of Arc, in the apartments, illustrating their historic meeting in 1429. The principal tower, Fort de Coudray, is where a number of Knights Templar were held captive, awaiting death, in the early XIV century – including their leader, Jacques de Molay. Some of the prisoners’ graffiti are still visible. Tel. 02.47931345, www.forteressechinon.fr 3 CHAPEL/CAVE OF SAINTE-RADEGONDE

In the VI century this had been the cave of a hermit, Jean de Moutier. The legend goes that the Frankish Queen Radegund, founder of Poiters Abbey, on her journey from Tours to Saix, stopped here to drink from a miraculous well at the site and asked the hermit to pray for her. Known as the Chapel of the Hermit and the Queen, it is now a rock-hewn chapel, which includes the holy man’s cave-dwelling. It consists of two naves – of which one, the cave, is probably the earliest part of the edifice. The carved out vault is supported by two monolithic pillars; the central nave dates from the late XII century.

L O I R E VA L L E Y

The chapel is also connected to a network of troglodyte cavities, which house a spring. Though detached from the town’s medieval heart, the Chapel of Sainte-Radegonde had been a popular site of pilgrimage until the 1500s, when it was destroyed in the Protestant uprisings. After the Revolution it was sold off and used as a shelter for domestic livestock, thereafter changing hands and purpose through the years until its definitive acquisition in 1975. It is now home to the Chinon Museum of Folk Arts and Traditions. 4 CAVE CELLARS M PLOUZEAU

A visit to the M Plouzeau winery is a voyage into the soul of Chinon. The cave runs deep under the fort and a wine-tasting experience here will never be lacking in atmosphere. Plouzeau’s wines – red, rosé and sparkling – are produced with natural methods: grapes are harvested by hand; the extraction and fermentation are in no way accelerated; no chemical yeast is used. These factors combine to produce an authentic wine of the local terroir,, which extends around Bonnelière Castle. The vines are spread across 30 hectares and their cultivation is strictly organic. Caves M Plouzeau, 94 rue Haute Saint-Maurice, Tel. 02.47933211 www.plouzeau.com

Pâtisserie Ayrole in Chinon is a glutton’s trap, especially for the famished Loire à Vélo cyclist. Patrice and his wife Valérie have a passion for their pastries, as well as taste and refinement. Temptations abound: traditional pastries, ice creams, chocolates and macaroons. But two specialities stand out: Ladies’ Tongues, with almonds and hazelnuts; and the insuperable Tarte du Vigneron (Winemaker’s Tart) – caramelised filo pastry, coated with thinly-sliced apple and flavoured

with Chinon wine confit. For all the magnificence of the Loire’s castles, the French Renaissance is well and truly expressed here straight out of the oven.

CHINON

THE VIGNERON’S TART

L O I R E VA L L E Y

EVENTS , Third Sunday each month, Flea market: traditional rendez-vous along the banks of the Vienne. , April, Spring Fair: flea market and funfair, a vintage event that includes a competition for the most impressive beard. , May, Chinon en Fanfares: marching bands galore and all manner of frolics on the Vienne riverbanks. , Mid-May till end September, Open-air Guinguette: bar/restaurant/ concerts/chilling/mini-beach on the bank of the Vienne, across from the medieval town. Open when the weather is fine. , June, Chinon Classic: cars, motorbikes, lorries and agricultural machinery, from vintage to classic, with side events, talks and demonstrations. , 14 July, National Day: re-enactment of the storming of the Bastille prison, which triggered the Revolution; fireworks and folk dancing. , Early August, Medieval Market: costumed events, some involving the local community. , September, Nocturne Gourmande: all manner of crafts and gastronomy at this market.

EATING AND DRINKING

CHINON

5 PÂTISSERIE AYROLE 5 Rue Neuve de L’Hôtel de Ville Tel. 02 47930715 Openig times: Tue-Sat 9am12:30pm and 2:30-7pm. Macaroons, fine French pâtisserie.

6 FOURNIL DU CHÂTEAU 16 Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau Tel. 02 47931765 Good selection of bread (including walnuts, onion, kamut wheat), Fouées de Rabelais (Chinon speciality), savoury pies.

A bright and early start from Chinon does the trick today: one last look back at the fortress, as the River Vienne begins to stir for the morning, and onwards along our Loire à Vélo. The trail may fool us into thinking that it abandons the waterways on our last day, but once through Savigny-en-Véron it soon veers back to the Vienne’s right bank, and onwards to its magical confluence with Mother Loire, for Candes-Saint-Martin is where the rivers meet. The waters play with the lands and sands, perpetually remodelling the landscape, and where better to enjoy the spectacle than the Collegiate – a divine gem of architecture and art, with nature thrown in? Little wonder that artists gather in Candes, many permanently, to relish the tranquillity and inspiration to be found here. Our cycleway teases us again up into the hills – not without the occasional challenge – but we are never too far from the Loire’s valley, with the river now stretching its elbows as it glides westwards. In this land too the vine reigns supreme, cultivated in abundance and providing the backdrop to Montsoreau Castle and the Abbey of Fontevraud, proud in their bright white stone. Reaching Saumur is an effortless task: a virtual freewheel into the heart of this small town, as elegant and bubbly as its own wines.

FROM CHINON TO SAUMUR

From Chinon to Saumur

Mollay

Le CoudrayMacouard

Artannessur-Thouet

Distré

Varrains

Brézé

Champigny

Dampierresur-Loire SouzayChampigny

Villebernier

La Riauderie

Saint-Cyren-Bourg

Chacé

Saumur

L e T h o u et

Éternes

Fontevraudl’Abbaye

La 3

re Loi

La Haute Brosse

Lerné

Thizay

Avoine

Néman

Cinais

5 km

Rivière

Chinon

Huismes

La Chapellesur-Loire

Les Coudreaux

Le Bas Pays

Beaumonten-Véron

Porte Boulet

Savignyen-Véron

La V i e nn

Chouzésur-Loire

SaintGermainsur-Vienne

CandesSaint-Martin

Montsoreau

Parnay Turquant

Varennessur-Loire

L O I R E VA L L E Y

1 ABBEY OF SEUILLY

Imposing and essential, Seuilly bears a scar or two from a colourful past – notably a devastating fire in 1416, and the effects of a hurricane on the church in 1751, long after the monks had abandoned the site. It was founded in 1095 by Guillaume de Montsoreau as a priory, became an abbey in 1100 and then passed into the hands of Princess Jeanne, illegitimate daughter of Louis XI. It is also associated with the XVI-century humanist and writer François Rabelais, who attended the abbey’s school

A complex and intriguing figure of the French Renaissance, Rabelais embodies the concept of deliberate provocation at its most visionary and piercing. His writing and life are a voyage through the human race, an interpretation of humanism hinged on the spirit of Desecration – an approach that challenges the principles of propriety and a refined education, exposing their hypocrisy and remoteness from true human values. He was born in 1494 and died in 1553. As a young Franciscan monk he studied in the monastery of Puy-SaintMartin at Fontenayle-Comte; he was an admirer of Erasmus of Rotterdam and developed a passion for classics, translating The Histories of Herodotus. Suspected of heresy, he was expelled from the Franciscans but received into the Benedictine Order by Bishop Geoffroy d’Estissac. He later travelled in a bid

to quench his thirst for knowledge, and from 1532 onwards practised medicine at Lion, a beacon of the French Renaissance. His satirical pentalogy, Gargantua and Pantagruel, Pantagruel which spells out his philosophy, drew an immediate reaction from the authorities, both ecclesiastical and literary. His attacks of the Church became increasingly fierce and destabilising, advocating that Man should rightly yearn for happiness, but can only do so by breaking the moulds of conformity through the ‘folly of wisdom’ and the ‘seriousness of laughter’. Rabelais strikes out at the academics of the Collège de la Sorbonne, the Church and the Law, through his two giants: Gargantua and his son, Pantagruel. His vein is satirical and extravagant, never short of crudity, wordplay and sheer violence. “Pantagruelism”, in the author’s own words, is a philosophy rooted in “a certain gaiety of spirit pickled in the scorn of fortuitous matters.” The timing could not have been more appropriate: with the French Wars of Religion looming, Rabelais was repeatedly hushed for convenience.

FROM CHINON TO SAUMUR

FRANÇOIS RABELAIS

L O I R E VA L L E Y

under the abbot Jean de Bourbon – a figure who remained embedded in his memory and would crop up in the wars of Gargantua. It is now a country house serving the district as an information centre for visitors; it also sells local produce and crafts, and organises cultural events. ‘In the steps of Rabelais the botanist’ is an engaging trail running from the abbey to Devinière, where the man was born and a museum has been dedicated to him. Tel. 02.47582984, mob. 06.42776996 www.manoirabbaye.com/abbay-manor-en 2 RABELAIS MUSEUM

The rural neighbourhood of La Devinière, with its cluster of dwellings set around a courtyard, is the birthplace of François Rabelais, the humanist who enlightened the French Renaissance with his spirit. It has remained virtually intact and faithful to the setting described in his series Gargantua and Pantagruel.. The room where Rabelais is believed to have been born is a simple and rustic, if dignified, affair. The dovecote with its classic pitched roof is well worth a visit, and so too the Winemaker’s House: an art installation, in the form of a gigantic book titled Chronique de la Gruèlie Gruèlie, which features the work of

L O I R E VA L L E Y

three artists – Geneviève Besse (plastic artist), Olivier Seguin (sculptor) and Bernard Nöel (writer) – and tells the story of Rabelais. The complex of buildings has been declared a ‘Musée de France’ and includes orchards, a garden, vines and a cellar, which is open to visitors. Musée Rabelais, 4 rue de la Devinière, Seuilly; Tel. 0800.123037, www.musee-rabelais.fr 3 CANDES-SAINT-MARTIN

Acknowledged as one of the most exquisite villages in France, this is where the Vienne and Loire join forces. But there is nothing superficial about this burgh’s soul: it is named after the saint who lived and died here, and has even dedicated the Collegiate – built over the site of his dwelling – to the holy man. No more than 250 people live in Candes, which is skirted by vineyards as well as the two rivers. Located at the centre of the Chinon-Saumur-Bourgueil triangle – all three crowned with a top AOC appellation – Candes-Saint-Martin too offers a fine goblet of wine. Through the centuries it has been a key port of call for the historic Loire Navy, and visitors can take to Amarante, a restaurant-barge. the water here aboard the Amarante

This green lung covers 270,000 hectares across two départments: Indre-et-Loire and Maine-et-Loire. The park’s floodplain – with its woodland, praries, steppes, hills, canals and valleys – stretches beyond the horizon; though hardy and wild to the eye, the ecosystem is in fact fragile and in constant need of safeguarding. As such, the park is a virtuous example of historic integration between a relatively untamed environment and the impact of human settlement. The numbers speak for the area’s successful biodiversity: 329 species of butterfly, including the rare Azuré du Serpolet (Large Blue);

17 species of bat, all protected at national level; 52 of dragonfly, among them the Leucorrhinia genus (Whiteface); 52 of fish, some of which rare. Otter and beaver abound in the waterways. 30 varieties of orchid fly the flag for the local flora, along with the Royal Osmunda Fern (whose crest can reach the height of a human adult) and the perennial Fritillaria Meleagris lily. The park’s headquarters (Maison du Parc) are at Montsoreau. 15 Avenue de la Loire, Montsoreau Tel. 02.41383888, www.parc-loire-anjou-touraine.fr

FROM CHINON TO SAUMUR

LOIRE-ANJOU TOURAINE REGIONAL NATURE PARK

L O I R E VA L L E Y

4 CHÂTEAU DE MONTSOREAU

The first glimpse of Montsoreau will stay with you for life: a perfect account of the French Renaissance, and the only Loire château rising out of the riverbed. It was built by Jean II de Chambes, Privy Councillor to Charles VII, whose conception of the project was inspired by Venetian palazzi and their direct access to waterways. Since 2016 it has served as a contemporary arts museum and a home to the foremost collection of the Art&Language movement, which gathered the founding artists of Conceptual Art. Montsoreau owes its fame in part to Alexandre Dumas’ novel La Dame de Montsoreau and a theatrical light and sound trail along the river, Les Imaginaires de Loire,, brings it to life. Passage du Marquis de Geoffre, Tel. 02.41671260, www.chateau-montsoreau.com

FROM CHINON TO SAUMUR

5 FONTEVRAUD ABBEY

A brief detour from the riverside track leads to Fontevraud, where we find one of the most remarkable sprawling abbeys anywhere: a veritable monastic city, consisting of no less than five monasteries. Begun in 1100 by Rovert d’Arbrissel, a Breton monk, it has provided for both monks and nuns – without distinction – under an abbess who would be invested with neartotal authority by Pope and King. in 677 years (1115-1792) there have been 36 ruling abbesses here. The Revolution came down hard on the institution: all nuns and monks were driven out and the complex looted. Napoleon turned Fontevraud into a prison, and so it would remain until 1963, when the edifice was endowed to the Ministry of Culture. The Grand-Moutier cloister, around which all life revolved in its day, is recommended – as are the ancient infirmary, the chapter house and the Cité contemporaine, a social, cultural and artistic space. Tel. 02.41517352, www.fontevraud.fr 6 CHÂTEAU DE LA FESSARDIÈRE

A reference point for any Loire wine lover, Fessardière Castle at Turquant is the heart of the Saumur-Champigny AOC appellation. Its location could hardly be more idyllic, set as it is

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between the châteaux of Saumur and Montsoreau. Built in the XVII century on a panoramic upland, it is appropriately renowned for its immense wine cellars. Abel Aubert Dupetit Thouars was born here in 1793: navigator, explorer and an officer in the French navy, he led a number of scientific expeditions through the Pacific. In 1961, Ben Bella, leader of the Algerian National Liberation Front, was under house arrest at the château, two years before becoming the first president of an independent Algeria. The limestone tuff subsoil of the outlying terroir, which stores warmth by day and gently releases it by night, provides an ideal environment for the Cabernet vines. 5 Rue des Martyrs, Turquant, Tel. 02.41514889, www.chateaudelafessardiere.com

ORNAMENTS OF VALUE Bathed in light, nature and history, Candes-Saint-Martin has soul in abundance– and an example of this is found in Gabrielle Plasse’s contemporary jewellery: “I feed off what I feel and see, and translate it into jewels that are inspired by

texture, Celtic weaving, nature, mood and symbols.” 1 place de l’Église, Candes-Saint-Martin, Tel. 09.72451121 e 06.71457227, www.gabrielleplasse.com

FROM CHINON TO SAUMUR

7 TURQUANT

Troglodyte Turquant beckons on our last day along the Loire à Vélo.. Over the centuries, the caves of the rock-hewn Côte Saumuroise, which rises between the river below and the vineyards above, have served as dwellings, cellars and quarries. Millers, wine producers, coopers and bargemen have lived here since the Middle Ages (and well before), and – quite literally – given shape and character to their environment. Turquant’s ‘troglo’ appeal has long drawn artists and dreamers, and besides the wine cellars carved in the rock, we find many a craft workshop set in a cave. The main one, measuring some 200 sq m and 12 m in height, is home to around 30 artisans who work with stone, wood, metal and recycled materials. High above, on the back of the tufa Côte, the vineyards of the Saumur wine extend as far as the eye can see.

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L O I R E VA L L E Y

SAUMUR

Saumur The Loire’s cultural roots plunge deep into the fertile soil and white stone of Saumur, the small capital that is inextricably linked to the terroir and its traditions. While the Castle and the river provide the common frame for all the local towns and villages, the troglodyte habitats, sparkling wines and the historic Cadre Noir National Equestrian School are of Saumur alone. The château faces the Loire and dominates this ‘White City’, whose dwellings, abbeys and churches are made of the local tuff stone. Saumur has been the horseriding capital of France since the late XVI century, when the country’s first equestrian academy, the Cadre Noir, was created. To this day, it remains rooted in tradition, history and skill. But Saumur’s Joie de vivre too makes it a must-stop point along the Loire à Vélo: simply put, one eats and drinks better here, and life is there to be lived along the banks of the Loire, the squares of the historic centre, the outlying farmsteads, and the cellars of the Côte Saumuroise, between Montsoreau, Turquant and Saumur. TOURIST INFORMATION Tourist Information Office 8 bis Quai Carnot - Tel. 02.41402060 - www.ot-saumur.fr

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ANJOU VÉLO VINTAGE Anjou Vélo Vintage Village offering what it says on the can. The trails take the hopelesly reminiscing Romantic through the roads of Anjou, starting and finishing in Saumur: there are three on the Saturday and as many on Sunday, ranging from 30 to 120 km. 19 quai Carnot, Saumur, Tel. 02.41386000, www.anjou-velo-vintage.com

SAUMUR

This annual event is dedicated to the cycling enthusiast and the bon viveur alike: a weekend in early July with a chance to ride a ‘pre-1987’ bike and sport one’s rigorously retro apparel. The bikefest includes concerts, meets and stalls, all well and truly stuck in the mud. Not forgetting buskers, dancers, singers and street hawkers; plus the market and, with a 100 or so stalls, the

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L O I R E VA L L E Y

SAUMUR’S COCO CHANEL Saumur, on 19 August 1883, was the birthplace of Gabrielle Chanel, one of the most intelligent figures in the history of fashion. “Coco” spent her childhood in an orphanage, a tough and sad chapter in her life, yet her flair would spearhead the world of couture in the XX century. The woman wearing Coco Chanel in the 1900s stood as a revolutionary icon: independent, committed to work, unconventional and never afraid of self-deprecation. She first made a name for herself

creating hats, but her reputation surged in the 1950’s when she designed her legendary tailleurs, which proposed a sober, essential and elegant look to the woman of the time. Later as well, Chanel found inspiration in men’s clothing, pushing the boundaries of women’s emancipation ever further – at a time when a woman’s dress was still metaphorically influenced by the belle époque, an aesthetic that had simply not kept pace with emancipation. Her name is also synonymous, of course, with perfumes. Ernest Beaux created the iconic Chanel N.5 in 1921 under the direction of Coco Chanel, who imagined a scent that would embody womanliness as a timeless concept. She died in Paris on 10 January 1971.

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THREE MUSEUMS NOT TO BE MISSED

The Musée des Blindés (Tank Museum), Musée du Moteur (Museum of Motoring) and Musée de la Cavalerie (Cavalry Museum) all make for a rewarding visit in Saumur. The first is a collection of armoured vehicles dating back as far 1917. The second, of combustion engines from 1818 till the present day, with exhibits ranging from 800 grams to 21 tonnes, and 1 to 12 cylinders spanning a range of combustion methods. The third traces the history of the French cavalry from 1445 onwards, with a fascinating collection of uniforms, harnesses, armour and weaponry.

5 Musée des Blindés, 1043 Av. Fontevraud, Tel. 02.41836995, www.museedesblides.fr 6 Musée du Moteur, 18 Rue Alphonse Caillaud-Bagneux, Tel. 02.41502610, www.museedumoteur.fr 7 Musée de la Cavalerie, Place Charles de Foucauld, Tel. 02.41836923, www.musee-cavalerie.fr

History of the city

The best in brief 1 CHÂTEAU DE SAUMUR

The symbol of Saumur, proudly dominant over the city and the Loire Valley, is an ancient fortified manor which the Dukes of Anjou transformed into a royal palace in the XIV and XV centuries; King René was the last Anjou to reside here. After his death in 1480, it became the palace of the city’s Governors, and subsequently a prison and munitions depot. The château

SAUMUR

The ‘Pearl of Anjou’ was a fief of the Counts of Blois and then of the Anjou, before being absorbed within the French Crown in the XIII century. It subsequently played a crucial part in repelling the English during the Hundred Years’ War. In the course of Henry IV’s Reformation, Saumur became a point of reference in the spread of Protestantism. A tangible decline followed the revocation of the Edict of Nantes; the town held its head high again in the 1700s with the institution of the Equestrian School – one of the most prominent in France and Europe.

was decreed part of the City Heritage at the start of the XIX century, and a ‘Museum of France’. Its collection ranges from the fine to the decorative arts, from ethnology and archaeology to natural science. One of the most valuable collections of French porcelain and tapestries (XV-XVIII centuries) is also housed here. The Museum of the Horse displays items such as saddles, spurs, calipers and works of art running into the XX century. The château’s garden offers an excellent view across the city. Tel. 02.41402440, www.chateau-saumur.fr

SAUMUR

2 CHURCH OF NOTRE-DAME-DES-ARDILLIERS

Declared a ‘Chapelle Royale’ by the Church, the complex is the site of a prominent Oratory and a School of Theology. NotreDame-des-Ardilliers was instituted by the Oratorians, a congregation founded by Father De Bérulle in the XVII century, and thanks to the patronage of the ruling nobility; it was designed by the architect Jacques Lemercier, who at the time was working for Cardinal de Richelieu. A statue of the Virgin Mary, said to be miraculous, makes this one of the most popular and traditional pilgrimage sites in France. Place Notre Dame, Tel. 02.41402060, www.ot-saumur.fr

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3 CHURCH OF NOTRE-DAME DI NANTILLY

The earliest church in Saumur, it was built in the Anjouin Romanesque style in the first half of the XII century. By order of Louis XI, in the XV century, it was amplified with a lateral nave in Flamboyant Gothic style. It is constructed in the light stone of the Loire and presents a vast central nave. Pilgrims come here to honour the Virgin of Nantilly. Place de Nantilly, Tel. 02.41833031

Ranked of national and international excellence, the École Nationale d’Équitation de Saumur was founded in 1815. Very much a symbol of the city, Cadre Noire’s reputation has undoubtedly contributed to the French Riding Tradition being inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, in 2011. A visit to the centre, at Saint-Hilaire-Saint-Florent (a few kilometres from Saumur), will introduce riding enthusiasts and novices alike to the art of equestrianism, including French dressage. Av. De l’École Nationale d’Equitation, Saint-Hilaire-Saint-Florent, Tel. 02.41535060, www.ifce.fr

SAUMUR

4 CADRE NOIR

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L O I R E VA L L E Y

EATING AND DRINKING

SAUMUR

8 LA MAISON DES VINS DE LOIRE 7 Quai Carnot Tel. 02 41384583. Opening times: Tue-Sat 10:30am1pm and 3-7pm. Closed on Monday and Sunday. An ideal port of call along the Loire Valley’s Route des Vins, for acquiring some first-hand knowledge of Anjou and Saumur wines, and their rich and diverse world. The Maison des vins de Loire tells the story through local producers and their wines, sampled from the latest vintage. The 26 AOC-appellated labels (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) include still and sparkling wines. The gift shop is a great place for unusual presents. 12 COMBIER DISTILLERY 48 Rue Beaurepaire Tel. 02 41402302 Open daily, 10am-6pm. www.combierboutique.fr Nothing short of a local institution, Combiers is renowned for the supérieure, production of absinthe supérieure liqueurs and syrups. It was established in the mid-1800s thanks to the passion and intuition of Jean-Baptiste Combier, who was originally from Burgundy and moved to Saumur in 1834. He initially opened a pâtisserie, in rue Saint-Jean, all the while feeding his passion for liqueurs in the backroom. His masterstroke came in the form of his triple-sec, a liqueur produced with bitter and sweet oranges. Jean-Baptiste’s son then travelled the world far and wide in search of plants and spices to create new spirits. His quest turned him into a local personality

on the social and political scenes of Saumur, and in 1879 he became the first elected Mayor of the city. Today’s Combier Distillery prides itself on using nothing but the finest prime ingredients, and in pioneering innovative drinks with a creative eye – all very much in keeping with the spirit of the founder himself. 15 BOUVET-LADUBAY WINERY 11 rue Jean Ackerman, Saint-Hilaire-Saint-Florent Tel. 02 41502432 www.bouvet-ladubay.fr While there are many (and laudable) ones to visit, this particular winery is Saumur’s monument to wine production, and a magnet for lovers of bubbly such as Saumur Brut and Crémant de Loire. The voyage within (no less than 5 km of cellars numbering over 1000 barrels) illustrates all the stages of production and is best undertaken by bike (advance booking recommended). The initiative was launched in collaboration with Anjou Vélo Vintage, the main cycling and cultural event of the year here.

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EATING AND DRINKING

9 BRASSERIE LE 7 28, Place Bilange +33 02 41674868 Daily from 7.30 to 2.00 le7-brasserie.fr Attractive modern bistrot, bang in the centre yet spacious and welcoming. Contemporary French cooking, a lunchtime menu du jour and a large selection of wines. 10 1929 TAPASSERIE ANGEVINE 52 rue Saint Nicolas +33 617112521 Closed Monday Tapas with a French twist: tasters of local recipes aplenty, with good vegetarian and vegan options. 11 LE BISTROT DES ECUYERS 55, Rue Saint-Nicolas +33 241512638 Closed Sunday and Monday bistrotdesecuyers.eatbu.com

Traditional regional fare, as well as pizza from its famous wood-fired oven. Al fresco tables. 13 L’ALCHIMISTE 6, Rue de Lorraine +33 02 41676518 Closed Sunday and Monday lalchimiste-saumur.fr A small restaurant offering traditional cuisine within a modern ambience. The 3 fixed-price menus are good value (22 to 37 euros). 14 LA PIERRE CHAUDE 41, Avenue du Général de Gaulle +33 0241671883 Closed Sunday la-pierre-chaude.eatbu.com French dishes and a variety of meat – grilled or (as the name suggests) cooked on a slate at the table.

, Beginning of July (every two years), Festival des Musiques Militaires: marching bands do their oompahpah. , Third weekend of July, Carrousel de Saumur: equestrian event at the Cadre Noir. , Beginning of August, Les Grandes Tablées du Saumur-Champigny: literally, ‘The Great Spreads of Saumur-Champigny’, adding up to a local wine- and foodfest. , September, Festivini: wine and more wine, a festival bringing the wine producers together. , September, Les Foulées du Champigny: hikes and running events through the vineyards. , Mid-October, Les Randonnées Vin et Champignons: foraging excursions on foot and by bike, in the land of wine and mushrooms. , Last Sunday in September, Fêtes des Vendanges au Château de Saumur: celebrating the grape harvest

SAUMUR

EVENTS

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L O I R E VA L L E Y

USEFUL INFORMATION EMERGENCY NUMBERS

or consulates. Please bring all required

Medical emergency/accidents/

documents with you during travel.

ambulance (SAMU)

It is your responsibility to check the

Police (Gendarmerie)

expiration dates of these documents and

Fire brigade (Sapeurs Pompiers)

renew them if necessary.

112 All emergencies This is the European emergency

CURRENCY

number which can be called in any

The Euro (â&#x201A;Ź) is the currency used in

emergency from any telephone (lan-

France.

dline and mobile phone). Calls are free. As itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a Europe-wide number,

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION

you can also ask to be connected to In this tour trains represent a useful an English-speaking operator.

means of transport: www.sncf.com According to the type of train, it may be necessary to book, or pay for a place for your bike. TELEPHONE AND USEFUL NUMBERS Throughout Europe roaming services are free (if you have a European SIM card). Please check your rates with your mobile/ internet provider before your departure.

HEALTH RULES

The international phone prefix of France is

Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, Iceland,

+33 (and the local phone number of ten

Norway or Liechtenstein receive free or

digits omitting the initial 0.).

reduced-cost state-provided health-care cover with the European Health Insurance

TIME ZONE

Card (EHIC) for medical treatment that

France is in the Central European Time

becomes necessary while in France.

(CET) Zone, 1 hour ahead of Greenwich

Non-EU citizens coming from countries

Mean Time (GMT), and observes Daylight

not covered by the agreement are provid-

Saving Time: at the beginning of spring

ed with health services that must be paid

the clocks go forward an hour in order

in accordance with the relative scale of

to take advantage of an extra hour of

charges. For further information, consult

sunlight in the late afternoon/evening. At

the health authorities of your country.

the beginning of autumn the clocks are shifted back to standard Central Euro-

DOCUMENTS

pean Time.

European Citizens whose country falls under the authority of the Schengen Treaty

CLIMATE AND WEATHER

may enter France with nothing more than

The climate in the region is influenced

a valid identity card or passport.

by an oceanic component and by the

Prior to departure, we recommend that

distance from the ocean, such as by an

you check the entry and travel require-

occasional continental influence. In the

ments for your destination country/coun-

eastern part of the region the winter is

tries by contacting the relevant embassies cold without excesses and the summer is

L O I R E VA L L E Y

111

warm and bearable. In the western part

a.m. to 7.00/8.00 p.m. from Monday to

are winter and summer milder.

Saturday.

Information on the climate in the region at: Small grocery stores usually close on www.meteofrance.com

Saturday afternoon, Sunday and Monday. Many restaurants are closed on Sunday. Pharmacies are usually open from Monday to Saturday, between 9.00 a.m. and 8.00 p.m. In large towns, there are always some pharmacies open 24/24. For emergencies during the night, or when the pharmacies are normally closed, a number of them remain open, on a rotational basis. Look for a notice in

ELECTRICITY

the window of any pharmacy to find out

The power supply in France is at 220-

which pharmacy is scheduled.

240 volts and all you should need for your accessories is an adaptor for your

Post offices are usually open from

plugs. If you live in a country with a supply Monday to Friday from 8.30/9.00 a.m. of 110 volts, then you will also need a

to 5.00/6.00 p.m., Saturday only in the

transformer.

morning.

OPENING TIMES

Banks are open from Monday through

Shops are generally open from Monday

Friday, from 8:00-9:00 a.m. to 11:30-

to Saturday in the morning from 9.00 or

1:00 p.m. and from 1:30-2:00 p.m. to

10.00 to 12.00/1.00 p.m., in the after-

4:30-5:00 p.m., although opening and

noon from 2.00/3.00 to 6.30/7.00 p.m.

closing hours vary slightly from bank to

Some shops are closed also on Saturday

bank. ATMs tend to be accessible 24

afternoon and on Monday.

hours a day.

Supermarkets and department stores

In July and August many shops and

often stay open all day from 9.00/9.30

restaurants close for holiday.

112

L I B E

· · · · ·

G I

L O I R E VA L L E Y

R E E N S

GR EE N S were born from the need to provide cyclists with information on the Girolibero tour in Italy and France. GR EE N S consist of 3 books: • a tourist guide for cyclists • a complete set of maps for the tour • a roadbook Other G R E E NS are being prepared for: Sicily, Danube cyclepath from Passau to Vienna ...

Further information at: info@girolibero.com

GREENS maps, roadbooks and guides are created by Girolibero, the cycling holiday expert for Italy, France and beyond. Girolibero designs routes along quiet bikeways, backroads and waterways, providing quality bikes, reliable support, generous info packs, comfy accommodation. Headquarters are located in historic Vicenza, not far from Venice, with a backstage staff of over 40 plus dozens of tour leaders, drivers, mechanics. www.girolibero.it

ISBN 978-88-85606-06-7

9 788885 606067 â&#x201A;Ź [IT/EN/DE] 24,00