Euganean Hills - cycling guide by Girolibero

CYCLING GUIDE

Euganean Hills Sights, history, wining and dining tips, useful information

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ABOUT THE AUTHORS Chiara Fasolato is a tour guide in love with her homeland and feels privileged to share its History and Beauty with others. The wealth of cultural and natural treasures of the Venice Lands – and the Euganean Hills in particular (where Chiara was born) – is best explored, she will always tell you, astride your bike. Enjoy! Oswald Stimpfl is a passionate cyclist. He has published more than 20 books on various Italian regions and territories for publishers of the calibre of MairDumont, Folio Editore Bolzano/Vienna and the Italian Touring Club Association. When he’s not travelling the country observing, photo- graphing and describing lands, peoples, foods and wines, he lives and works in the bilingual city of Bozen/Bolzano.

Girolibero, Vicenza 2019 Concept and design: www.noparking.it Maps: www.noemastudio.it Photos: Antonio Fasolato, Marco Moressa, Pixabay, Oswald Stimpfl, Terry, Wikipedia. All other photos by Girolibero and no.parking. Printed in Italy www.girolibero.it

CHIARA FASOLATO OSWALD STIMPFL

Euganean Hills

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This guide will help you discover the Regional Park of the Euganean Hills, particularly the largest European thermal park. Here, you will find valuable information about the history, the artistic heritage and the beautiful landscape of the areas on route, not to mention also recommended places to stop along each stage and advice on the not-to-be-missed food and wines, with some names and addresses of restaurants and shops.

Euganean Hills

Index Euganean Hills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Euganean Spas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Places of worship . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Castles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Villas.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Parks.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Eating and drinking drinking. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Padua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Useful information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

MAPS OVERVIEW OF THE TOUR . . . 6

CITYMAPS Abano Terme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Battaglia Terme . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Padua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

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Places of worship 8 Praglia Abbey 9 Morteortone Sanctuary Castles 10 Catajo 11 Lispida 12 San Pelagio

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Parks Le Fiorine Adventure Park San Daniele Biotope Butterfly House and Fairy Wood Buzzacarini Park

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Restaurants and Pubs Cantina Salvan - Vigne del Pigozzo Frantoio Colli del Poeta Ristorante la Montanella Osteria al Guerriero Enoteca di Arquà Ristorante La Torre Bar Giardini d’Este Ristorante il Ripasso Bar Pizzeria Al Parco Azienda Vitivinicola Colle Mattara Trattoria al Pozzetto

EUGANEAN HILLS

Euganean Hills Tucked in the Venice Lands (or Veneto), the Euganean Hills Regional Park rises from the plains of the River Po, an ancient outcrop of hills covering 19,000 hectares within a perimeter of 65 km. The 100 or so hills reach an average height of 300/400 m, Monte Venda being the highest at 601 m. Geologically, the formation of the Colli (colle is Italian for hill) dates back some 135 million years, as sedimentary deposits settling at the bottom of the sea that once washed these lands calcified into rock. A hundred million years later, a series of volcanic eruptions shaped the hills with their classic contours of volcanic structures. The Euganean Hills’s rocks have been exploited by man since time immemorial, namely chalk and marl for limestone fertilizer; and volcanic rock for paving, by virtue of its resistance and grip in slippery conditions. Many of the Veneto’s streets and piazzas are decked with this stone. Unsurprisingly, from the Middle Ages onwards, canals were dug to reach the Euganean Hills and supply communities with construction material (timber, rock, limestone), as well as foodstuff (oil, wine, fruit). Numerous mills lined these waterways. 1971 brought the first ‘Environmental Protection’ legislation to safeguard the natural beauty and ecology of the Euganean Hills. This led to the progressive closure of the 70 or so quarries, which had blotted the landscape over time, and to a number of projects aimed at restoring the sites to their natural state. Very few areas are now actively quarried.

The thermal nature of the Hills, interestingly, is not directly associated with their volcanic formation: it stems from the rainwaters of the Lessini Mountains and the ‘Small Dolomites’, both located further north, within the provinces of Vicenza and Verona. These waters feed underground rivers some 2000/3000 m deep, re-emerging at the Euganean Hills 25/30 years later (and after a journey of some 100 km), rich in mineral salts, mildly radioactive and at a temperature of around 87°C

(156.6°F). There are a couple of hundred wells providing in total 24 million litres of water a day! The salty-bromidic-iodinated water is used in a range of therapies, principally: bathing, inhalation and mud. Thermal mud is created by maturing Euganean clay in pools of spring water for approximately 60 days. Its high anti-inflammatory properties are ideal in the treatment of rheumatism, arthritis, osteoporosis, trauma, fractures and in helping recovery from surgery.

A natural oasis of biodiversity, the Euganean Hills provide a home to a remarkable range of species. Quite unusually, they enable vegetation that’s more typical of hot and arid areas (Mediterranean maquis, including a variety of dwarf prickly pear) to thrive alongside greenery typical of mountainous regions (such as chestnut woodland). Viticulture has also prospered since ancient times, flourishing in particular during the Middle Ages and beyond; the Venetian nobility in particular, in former times, provided a fine palate for the wines of the Colli.

EUGANEAN HILLS

THERMALISM OF THE EUGANEAN HILLS

Euganean Hills

The best in brief EUGANEAN SPAS

The heart of the Terme Euganee consists of the communes of Abano and Montegrotto: together with Galzignano, Teolo and Battaglia, they form the largest thermal basin in Europe. The therapeutic properties of these waters have been acknowledged for centuries and are prized to this day. 1 ABANO TERME

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The town centre is largely pedestrianised, with its plush hotels and well-tended gardens, shops, restaurants and bars. The two jewels in the hospitality crown are the Grand Hotel Orologio, with its neoclassical faĂ§ade (XVIII/XIX centuries); and the Hotel Trieste & Victoria, where the Italian Supreme Command was stationed during the Great War. A short walk from the centre takes us to Colle Montirone, the hill which for centuries was the focal point of the spas, with a spring that rises here naturally, and which once fed the baths

Euganean Hills

and a mill. A monumental colonnaded entrance leads into the park, where a complex of XVIII-/XIX-century baths has been recreated. On the adjacent Colle di San Daniele rises the monastery that shares its name. Founded in the XI century, it is now a cloistered convent for Benedictine nuns. It is however possible to visit the small Baroque church, the panoramic terrace and some of the halls designed and furnished in the years when the original edifice was converted into a country house.

1 RISTORANTE VERBENA 21 Via Montirone, Abano Terme Tel. 049 8669505 Closed Wed International and local dishes. The pizza is light, fragrant and easy to digest. Quality ingredients.

2 RISTORANTE LA SCALA 33 Via Marzia, Abano Terme Tel. 049 8630306 Closed Mon A refined ambience offering mainly fish and seafood.

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE OF ABANO Located at 18 Via Pietro d’Abano. Tel. 049 866 6262 www.visitabanomontegrotto.com (also in English) Opening times: Mon-Fri 9.30am-5.30pm. Sat, Sun closed

2 MONTEGROTTO TERME

It is traditionally believed that Mons Aegrotorum – Mountain of the Sick, in Latin – was a hill where the ailing would seek solace in the thermal waters and mud. The centre of present-day Montegrotto has developed around the Oratory of Our Lady or of Saints Peter and Elisha, an ancient country church which was rebuilt in the XVIII century. On an upland a short distance away stands the Cathedral of St Peter, built in 1949.

EUGANEAN HILLS

EATING AND DRINKING

Euganean Hills

The archaeological area lies between two streets – Corso delle Terme and Via degli Scavi – and offers the ruins of a Roman thermal complex dating to the I century AD. On a hillside just out of town is Villa Draghi, a XVII-century mansion in Neogothic Venetian style, immersed in a grand park and affording magnificent views of this spa locality. Montegrotto is also renowned for its Y-40 The Deep Joy, recognised by Guiness World Records since 5 June 2014 as the deepest pool on earth: it is also the only scuba pool filled entirely with thermal waters. It measures 21x18 m and reaches a depth of 42.15 m. Viale Stazione / Via degli Scavi Archeological Site Located at Via degli Scavi For information and to arrange visits, contact Associazione Lapis, Tel. 3890235910 www.aquaepatavinae.it Y-40 The Deep Joy Located at Hotel Terme Millepini, 42 Via Cataio. Tel. 049 891 0416 www.y-40.com

EUGANEAN HILLS

3 BATTAGLIA TERME

A first settlement developed here in the Middle Ages around the natural spa cave of Colle Sant’Elena. But it was in the XII century, when the Paduans created a waterway, that Battaglia became a major riverine port and a crossroads for merchants and travellers. To this day the visitor can appreciate the original logic of its historic centre’s layout: it does not revolve around a classic piazza, but a canal. Connecting the two banks with all their buildings is Ponte del Scaini, a Venetian bridge unique of its kind on mainland. 1 PONTE DEI SCAINI

The bridge was rebuilt after the Second World War, the original one having been destroyed. On the left, towards the road, stands a statue of St John of Nepomuk. The Bohemian martyr is considered the patron saint of bridges because he was pushed off one into the River Vltva and drowned. He is widely celebrated throughout Europe on 20 March. At Battaglia the saint is also remembered by farmers, who traditionally hang loaves of bread from his hands.

ANCIENT WATERWAYS The navigli (navigable canals) dug into the rock around the hills draw their waters from the Bacchiglione River. This network of elevated waterways across the countryside feeds off the surrounding heights and irrigates by means of underground ducts: an extraordinary feat of hydraulic engineering begun in the Middle Ages and continued

through Renaissance times with the gradual reclamation of land. The two main canals are the Canale Battaglia, to the east of the Hills, which connects Padua and Monselice; and Canale Bisacco, to the west, which meanders like an eel â&#x20AC;&#x201C; hence its name, drawn from the dialectal word for this waterine creature: bisatto.

Euganean Hills

2 RIVER NAVIGATION CIVIC MUSEUM

Dedicated to the lives and culture of the barcari (boatmen), highlighting different aspects of their trade. 63 Via Ortazzo, Battaglia Terme. Tel. 049 525 170. Mob. 345 6822956 Opening times: March to October, Wed-Sun 9-12am and 3-6pm. Until 30 August also Thu evening 9-11pm Admission: € 5 museonavigazione.eu

EATING AND DRINKING

3 IL RISTORANTINO 75 Via Roma, Battaglia Terme Mob. 348 8581703 Closed Mon A humble half-pint restaurant, family-run, well looked after and quiet. Serves both meat and fish.

4 EL BARCARO 66 Via delle Terme, Battaglia Terme Mob. 331 9527404 Aperitivo and much more besides. A great place to enjoy cicchetti (pronounced ‘chicketty’: Venetian tapas), a main course or just a starter to keep you going. Friendly and informal. Good wine list.

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4 GALZIGNANO TERME

Surrounded by hills, its magnificent setting preserves a virtually uncontaminated environment. Its lands are rich in thermal springs, which provide for the hotels as well as the nurseries and their tropical greenhouses. Rose to prominence in the Middle Ages thanks to its strategic location. Being within easy reach by water, the Venetians embarked on local land reclamation from the XVI century onwards, subsequently carving up the territory and building their own villas. 5 ARQUÀ PETRARCA

The historic name derives from Arquata Montium (surrounded by mountains) and Petrarch, the humanist and poet, who died here. The medieval burgh is wonderfully preserved and picturesque. In the lower part we find the Church of St Mary of the Assumption, with its fragments of medieval frescoes and, in the parvis (or porch), the poet’s grave. A short distance away are some old stone washtubs and ‘Petrarch’s Fountain’, as it is known.

Euganean Hills

Higher up are the Oratory of the Trinity, Piazzetta (Little Square) of St Mark and Petrarch’s House. Casa del Petrarca Museum 4 Via Valleselle. Tel. 0429 718294 Opening times: March to October, Tue-Sun, 9-12am and 3-7 pm Closed: Mondays and 1 May. Admission: € 4

PETRARCH AND ARQUÀ The great bard Francesco Petrarca (Arezzo, 1304 – Arquà, 1374), chose the Euganean Hills as the ideal corner to settle in his old age. This is where he lived for about four years, surrounded by his loved ones, and where he was buried

according to his will. His grave is in the Santa Maria churchyard and tradition holds that he died in his little study. Petrarch’s presence has made Arquà a site of literary pilgrimage.

EUGANEAN HILLS

EATING AND DRINKING

27 FRANTOIO COLLI DEL POETA 14 Via dei Castagni, Arquà Petrarca Tel. 0429 777357, Open daily 8.30am-13pm and 3-6.30pm frantoio-colli-del-poeta-sas-di-carli. business.site Frantoio is Italian for olive press, and nothing but the best DOPappellated oil is produced here. Methods are traditional, with olives hand-picked and meticulously cold-pressed. The shop also sells honey, preserves, sauces, creams and a liqueur produced from olive leaves. 28 RISTORANTE LA MONTANELLA 9 Via dei Carraresi, Arquà Petrarca Tel. 0429 718200, Closed Tue and Wed, www.montanella.it Elegant location within a park and views across the colli. Local dishes,

including long-lost recipes, served with a refined finish. 29 OSTERIA AL GUERRIERO 2 Via Jacopo d’Arquà, Arquà Petrarca, Tel. 0429 718376. Closed Tue and Wed www.osteriaguerriero.it A classic Venice Lands osteria, in the main piazza of Arquà. A tiny place offers a big welcome – and a fireplace for extra warmth. Traditional dishes and local wines. 30 ENOTECA DI ARQUÀ 9 Via Castello, Arquà Petrarca Tel. 0429 777364, Closed Thu www.lenotecadiarqua.it Wine cellar with a magnificently positioned terrace over the valley. Ideal for a light lunch or a platter of meats, crostini rarebits, cheeses and preserves, all washed with fine wine.

6 MONSELICE

The name derives from mons silicis, silica being the sandstone compound commonly quarried in these hills. Monselice is one of the Euganean Hills’ walled cities and its XIII-century tower rises atop this isolated ‘mountain’. Its strategic position had the local seigneuries repeatedly contending for Monselice until the XV century, when it came under the dominion of the Venetian Republic and its military scope became redundant. This century also saw a flourishing of aristocratic country villas, some of which are restructured pre-existing medieval buildings, such as the unusual Castle of Monselice. A fusion of edifices built between the XII and XVI centuries, the complex was restored in the last century and lavishly refurbished with period furniture, paintings, carpets, tapestries, ceramics, musical intruments and weaponry – all recreating its original ambience of the Middle Ages and Renaissance. Besides the castle, the following are also recommended: the

Euganean Hills

cobbled walk up the hill leading to several villas which we can admire externally; the XIII-centuries Cathedral of St Justina of Padua; and the holy trail of the Seven Little Churches, built at the start of the XVII century and dedicated to the foremost basilicas in Rome. The itinerary leads to the Chapel of St George with its prized holy relics and neighbouring Villa Duodo (XVII century), flanked by a theatrical and monumental stairway. Monselice Castle 17 Via del Santuario. Tel. 0429 72931 Open daily March to October. Visiting hours: 9-10-11am and 3-4-5pm Admission â&#x201A;Ź 8 www.castellodimonselice.it

EATING AND DRINKING

31 RISTORANTE LA TORRE 14 Piazza Mazzini, Monselice Tel. 0429 73752, Closed Mon www.ristorantelatorremonselice.it

Elegant restaurant in the historic centre main piazza. Local fish and meat dishes, with an accent on the truffle.

Euganean Hills

7 ESTE

Originally the principal settlement of the ancient Veneti, Este subesquently became a prominent Roman city called Ateste – named after an old branch of the Adige river. During the Middle Ages the territory was first ruled by the powerful Este family, who erected a castle in 1056, then by the Carraresi, Lords of Padua. Though little remains of the castle itself, we can still enjoy its walls, which are 1 kilometre long and include 12 towers. Within are the public gardens and a highlight much prized by locals: a rose garden numbering some 1300 plants, a feast of colour and scent when in season. Just outside the walls, a few steps from the entrance to the National Adige River Museum, is Piazza Maggiore – paved with the classic grey stone of the hills and attractively surrounded by Venetian palazzi. Proceeding down Via Giacomo Matteotti we come across some smaller, porticoed palazzi now housing bars and caffés. Down the far end: the so-called Civic Tower of Porta Vecchia, built in 1690. A short walk from the piazza rises the Cathedral of St Thecla – originally an early Christian edifice which was subsequently restructured over time. Its present incarnation dates from the

Euganean Hills

late XVII to the early XVIII centuries, with an interior displaying a unique elliptical plan. Above the altar is a canvas masterpiece by Giovan Battista Tiepolo: Saint Thecla intercedes to end the plague (currently under restoration). Cathedral of Saint Thecla Located at 6 Piazza Santa Tecla. Tel. 04292009 Opening times: 7-11am and 4-6pm

EATING AND DRINKING

32 BAR GIARDINI D’ESTE 7 Via G. Negri, Este Tel. 0429 170 3778 Closed Mon Unusually positioned within the medieval walls of Este, with direct access into the park. Ideal for a coffee break, aperitivo with nibbles or a quick lunch.

33 RISTORANTE IL RIPASSO 44 Via Matteotti, Este Tel. 0429 50076 Closed Tue Under the porticoes of Este’s main street, within view of the civic tower. Refined and imaginative meat and fish menu, with unusual side-dishes. Also perfect for just an aperitivo.

EUGANEAN HILLS

MUSEUMS MUSEO NAZIONALE ATESTINO 9 Via G.Negri, Este. Tel. 0429 2085 Admission € 8 www.atestino.beniculturali.it

A fascinating voyage through the ancient civilisation of the Veneti and their territory. From prehistory to history, 65,000 artefacts tell the story of the River Adige in these lands.

Euganean Hills

Places of worship 8 PRAGLIA ABBEY

The Benedictine abbey of Praglia (from pratalea, meaning a location surrounded by lawns) was created over the XI and XII centuries. The current complex (1460-1550 ca.) illustrates its passage from the late Gothic to the early Renaissance. Visits are guided by a monk and no booking is required. They include four cloisters, the chapterhouse, monumental refectory, panoramic loggia and the late Renaissance church dedicated to St Mary of the Assumption. Monks gather here several times a day for liturgical prayer. Located at 16 Via Abbazia di Praglia, Teolo. Tel. 049 9999300 Summertime guided tours: Sundays and public holidays: 15.30 to 17.30 every half hour. Other days: 15.00-15.40-16.20-17.00 Closed: Mondays, Good Thursday through to Easter Sunday, Pentecost, Assumption Day. Admission: free (by donation) www.praglia.it

Located at 63 Via Santuario, Abano Terme. Tel. 049 8669447 Opening times: 9-12 am and 3.30-7pm www.monteortone.it

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9 MONTEORTONE SANCTUARY

Dedicated to Our Lady of Health (Salute), its legends tells that in 1428 a soldier was cured of the plague after bathing in a font where there lay a picture of Mary. A church was built on the spot and decorated with frescoes (XV century). Nearby are the cave where the miracle is purported to have taken place, and a former Augustinian convent, now a Salesian institute with a generous Renaissance cloister.

Castles

EUGANEAN HILLS

CATAJO

Constructed by mercenary warlords in the mid-XVI century, in the manner of a medieval fortress. In the XIX century it came into the hands of the Este family (not to be confused with the town of the same name) and, in turn, of the Habsburg. The imposing castle of Catajo (literally, ‘house on the canal’) preserves in its halls a notable cycle of XVI-century frescoes. It is surrounded by the Parco delle Delizie (‘Park of Wonders’), rich in botanical species including the first specimens of magnolia and sequoia imported into Europe from America. Located at 1 Via Catajo, Battaglia Terme. Tel. 349 9347190 Opening times: Sun, Tue, Thu, Fri & Public holidays. April, May, June, July, August 3-7pm. March, September, October, November 2.30-6.30pm. Admission: adults € 9, children 6-12 € 3.00, children up to 5 years free. www.castellodelcatajo.it

LISPIDA

Dating to the late XVIII century, it rises upon the ruins of a monastic complex. It is now an agricultural concern surrounded by vineyards, olive groves and woodland. During the Great War was the headquarters of the King of Italy, Victor Emanuel III.

The historic cellars house a wine bar offering local wine and food tasting.

SAN PELAGIO

The central tower reveals the medieval origins of this edifice, which was restructured in the XVIII century. Its vast surrounding garden includes a maze. This was the operative base of the legendary La Serenissima air squadron in 1918, which flew a daring raid over Vienna led by the patriot and poet, Gabriele D’Annunzio. Since 1980 it has served as the Museum of Flight (or Museum of Air and Space): among the top aeronautical collections in Europe, it illustrates through its museum pieces the history of human flight – from Leonardo da Vinci’s flying machines to the conquest of space. Located at 50 Via San Pelagio, Due Carrare. Tel. 049 9125008. Mob. 338 1623019 Opening times: Thu, Fri, Sat 10am-13pm and 2.30-6.30pm. Sun and public holidays 10am-7pm. Admission to museum + park: adults € 12, children 5-14 € 8, families (2+2) € 35. Admission to park € 8 www.castellosanpelagio.it

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Located at 4 Via IV Novembre, Monselice. Tel. 0429 780530. Mob. 349 3416009 (wine bar) Wine bar opening times: March to October on Fri, Sat, Sun 1.30-8.30pm www.lispida.com

Euganean Hills

Villas 13

VILLA SELVATICO SARTORI

This XVI/XVII-century stately home rises on a colle affectionately known as ‘Stove Hill’ on account of the thermal water gurgling into a natural cave. A 135-step stairway worthy of a stage set leads into a square-planned villa with lateral loggias and a central dome. Within, a cycle of mythological frescoes tell the story of Antenor, the legendary founder of Padua. The house is surrounded by a garden with three thermal ponds. Located at Viale Sant’Elena, Battaglia Terme. Closed to the public 14

VILLA EMO

A classic Renaissance residence in Palladian style, with a colonnaded front facing the canal. It is attributed to the XVI-century architect Vincenzo Scamozzi. The small well-tended garden, in the Italian manner, can be visited. Located at 4 Via Rivella, Monselice. Tel. 0429 781987 Opening times: Sat 2-7pm, Sun and holidays 10am-7pm www.villaemo.it

VILLA BARBARIGO AND MONUMENTAL GARDEN OF VALSANZIBIO

The garden of Valsanzibio is one of the most celebrated and refined historic parks of the Baroque era. Created in the midXVII century after a catastrophic plague, it illustrates the spiritual Path to Purification and Salvation to be undertaken by

Euganean Hills

Man – a message reinforced by a maze. It is enriched by a number of water features (fishponds, fountains and water games). Also includes hundreds of statues and some spectacular evergreen espaliers across its walls. Located at 12 Via Barbarigo, Valsanzibio. Tel. 049 9131065 Opening times park: daily March to December 10am-1pm and 2pm-sunset. Admission park: adults € 11, children up to 14 € 6.50 Guided tours by reservation only www.valsanzibiogiardino.it 16

VILLA DEI VESCOVI

A magnificent classically-inspired villa of the Renaissance, built as the Bishop of Padua’s country retreat. Characterised by its small loggias and harmoniously immersed in the nature of the colli,, the villa lent itself perfectly to hosting the artists and literati of the day. It remained Church property until 1962, when it was acquired by an entrepreneur who restored it. Villa dei Vescovi was recently endowed to the Fondo Ambiente Italiano heritage organisation (similar to the British National Trust) and opened to the public. Includes a gift shop, cafeteriabistrôt and wine bar. Located at 4 Via dei Vescovi, Luvigliano di Torreglia. Tel. 049 9930473 Opening times variable Admission: adults € 11, children 4-14 € 4, children 0-4 free, families (2+2 children 4-14) € 25 www.fondoambiente.it

Euganean Hills

VILLA CESAROTTI

This XVII-century villa was once the country hideaway of Melchiorre Cesarotti (1730-1808), man of letters and linguist from Padua, renowned for his translation of the epic Poems of Ossian published by James Macpherson. Until the 1800s the house lay on the banks of a bend in the Bacchiglione river, which was then filled in and channeled for irrigation – sadly destroying much of the English garden in the process. Its rooms include the ones dedicated by Cesarotti to Positive Philosophy, Practical Philosophy and Literature. Located at 17/19 Via Cesarotti, Selvazzano Dentro. Tel. 049 8733999 Visits by prior arrangement

EUGANEAN HILLS

VILLA EMO CAPODILISTA

This villa was built by the Veronese architect and painter Dario Varotari the Elder (1539–1596) in Selvazzano Dentro. This villa is considered to be one of the most unusual of the Venetian villas. Standing on a hill in the middle of a tree-lined Italian garden, it is square in shape with large frescoed loggias and unusual fanciful gabling. From the top of the hill the visitor enjoys a prospect that we may find impressive today but was once deployed for mainly defensive purposes; near the villa on Montecchia hill there are the suggestive remains castle walls (the castle foundations date from the eleventh century). The villa today houses a quality wine cellar and an expensive hotel. 16 Via Montecchia, Feriole di Selvazzano Dentro. Tel. 049 637294 Opening times wineshop: Tue-Sat 9-12am e 2:30-6:30pm www.lamontecchia.it

VILLA SERENELLA

The house was commissioned in the early XIX century by Gaspare Pacchierotti (1740 – 1821), a famous mezzo-soprano castrato. A fine example of Neogothic design, its turreted façades stand proud with their pinnacles and decorative battlements. By virtue of its elevated position, the house dominates the surrounding lands and is immersed in a romantic garden across 11 hectares. Located at Via Montebello, Montemerlo di Cervarese S. Croce Closed to the public

Euganean Hills

VILLA CONTARINI GIOVANNELLI VENIER

Originally from the 1500s and restructured in the 1800s, the villa lies in the heart of Vò Vecchio, a burgh that marked the boundary between the Berici and Euganean Hills. It was used by the Nazis as a concentration camp during the war. The main floor (piano nobile) currently houses the Landscape Museum, a rich collection of ancient maps. The ground floor is dedicated to the Holocaust as a Site of Shoah Remembrance, displaying artefacts and witness accounts from the victims. Located at 240 Piazza Bruno Santimaria, Vo’ Vecchio. Mob. 342 5756959 Opening times: Fri 3-6.30pm, Sat-Sun 9-12am and 3-6.30pm Admission: adults € 2, children 0-12 free www.creativo01.com

VILLA LANDO CORRER

EUGANEAN HILLS

Majestic in its simplicity, the villa is immersed in a park dense with secular trees. In the XX century it became a silkworm farm and spinning mill, and it is now dedicated to local agriculture. Located at Via Correr, Lozzo Atestino. Closed to the public

Parks 22

LE FIORINE ADVENTURE PARK

An activity trail suspended in the tree canopy, with a choice of courses for different ages and abilities. Forget the two wheels: rise to the challenge in the skies! Located at Via Monte Madonna, Teolo. Tel. 049 9131781. Mob. 338 5360848 Opening times: Sat and Sun variable Admission: cost according to the trail. Discounts for families and groups www.parcoavventurafiorine.it 23

SAN DANIELE BIOTOPE

Wetland created out of artificial ponds, formed where clay was once quarried for bricks. Located at Via Rialto, Torreglia Open daily. Admission free

BUTTERFLY HOUSE AND FAIRY WOOD

21 Via degli Scavi, Montegrotto Terme. Tel. 049 8910189 Opening times: from March to May daily. From June to 13 November daily except Mon. Winter 9.30am-5pm, Summer 9.30am-6.30pm Admission: € 9 full price. € 7 for children 4-12, Seniors over 65, larger families (2 parents + 3 or more children 4-25). Admission free for children 0-3. www.micromegamondo.com 25

BUZZACARINI PARK

The green heart of Monselice, offering a children’s play area, picnic and barbecuing facilities, and – to complement our cycling endeavours – volleyball and exercise equipment. Medicinal herbs grow in the small botanical garden. Special events are often held here at weekends. 52 Via San Giacomo, Monselice. Tel. 345 8779091 Admission free www.parcobuzzaccarini.it

EUGANEAN HILLS

Welcome to the world of butterflies, within three large greenhouses that replicate the Amazonian, African and Indo-Australian environments. They are also home to the Fairy Wood, a trail through the legends of the ancient Celts and traditions of the Veneto.

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Eating and drinking The culinary tradition of the Euganean Hills is rooted in earthy simplicity: food of a people who were often poor and would make the best of what nature might offer. Farm fowl comes to the fore, with chicken, guinea-fowl, duck and goose all providing the base for many dishes such as duck ragù with home-made pasta (tagliatelle, bigoli or gnocchi gnocchi). Another classic is risotto with chicken liver and peas, or with spring greens. Another risotto stands out: with bruscandoli, or hop shoots. Mains include grilled meats and roasts. There are no less than 13 DOC-appellated wines from the Euganean Hills, the most noteworthy being serprino, serprino a sparkling white with a fresh and fruity aroma; the DOCG moscato fior

EUGANEAN HILLS

EATING AND DRINKING 26 CANTINA SALVAN - VIGNE DEL PIGOZZO 143 Via Mincana, Due Carrare Closed Sun www.salvanwine.com A short walk from Catajo Castle, this winery’s doors are always open for visits and tasting. The Salvan family has been producing reds for over a century, including Cabernet, Merlot and Rosso Colli. 34 BAR PIZZERIA AL PARCO 9 Piazza Bruno Santimaria, Vò Vecchio Tel. 049 9940542 Closed Mon Simple and informal, offers an honest, thin and crusty pizza. Al fresco seating under the wide portico.

35 AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA COLLE MATTARA 109 Via Verdi, Carbonara di Rovolon Tel. 049 9914112. Opening times: Mon-Sat 8-12am and 2-7pm. Sun 8.30am-12.30pm www.collemattara.it Family-run winery where viticulture has passed through many generations. Reds, whites and grappa too. 36 TRATTORIA AL POZZETTO 64 Via Pozzetto, Bastia di Rovolon Tel. 049 9915395 Closed Tue www.alpozzetto.it Centuries-old locanda once frequented by cart drivers on the road between Padua and Vicenza. Classic Veneto cuisine.

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d’arancio (orange blossom muscatel), bottled either sweet or dry; the colli red, pressed from merlot, cabernet and raboso grapes. Maraschino (distilled cherry liqueur) is a must-try, as is Brodo di giuggiole (literally, broth of jujube, or red date), which includes quince and grapes, and is typically found around Arquà Petrarca. The medieval-walled city of Montagnana (a gem), also in the shadow the colli, is famous for its prosciutto crudo dolce (‘sweet’ cured ham). Honey and olive oil also hold their own.

, Aprile: Este in Flower,, with roses reigning supreme amidst much historic pageantry. , May: Golosa Bike,, as locals and visitors saddle up empty-bellied to enjoy the landscapes, produce and wines. , End of May: Festa dei Bisi at Baone,, a festival dedicated to humble pea. Peas, pods and pulses galore, with gastronomy at its very greenest. www.festadeibisi.it , Third week in September: Festa dell’Uva at Vo’ celebrates the grape. Three days of total immersion as the Euganean Hills welcome the grape harvest. Lectures, events, competitions, tasting, folklore and carnival floats. , End of September and early October: Festa delle giuggiole at Arquà pays homage to the jujube (or red date). Music, exhibitions, crafts and food. Tel. 0429 777327 , Weekly markets: Mon at Monselice, Wed at Abano Terme and Este, Thu at Montegrotto Terme and Vò, Sat at Este

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PA D UA

Padua A set phrase describes Padua as the “city of the Saint and Great Scholars”. The saint referred to is Anthony of Padua and the magnificent basilica bearing his name. Italy’s most popular saint and frequently depicted holding a lily and the Infant Jesus in his arms, he is called upon to solve all manner of problems, but is most often invoked when something precious has been lost. The second part of the phrase is a reference to the city’s distinguished scholarly tradition and the fact that Padua’s university, which was founded in 1222, is one of the oldest in the world. Of course, Padua has a lot more to offer. After Verona, it is the largest city in north-eastern Italy and boasts a proud past that is epitomised by its medieval city centre with its little squares, narrow streets and 24 kilometres of porticoes.

THE PROVINCE OF PADUA IN FIGURES

AREA: 2,722 square kilometres INHABITANTS: 837,000 THE SIX LARGEST TOWNS (IN TERMS OF POPULATION) ARE: Padua: 215,000 Albignasego: 23,500 Selvazzano Dentro: 22,400 Vigonza: 22,100 Cittadella: 20,000 Abano Terme: 19,800

AUSTRIA

I TA L I A

IAT PADOVA (PADUA’S TOURIST BOARD) 8 Riviera dei Mugnai, 35137 Padova Tel. 049 8767911

Piazza del Santo, 35137 Padova Tel. 049 8753087 info@turismopadova.it www.turismopadova.it

PA D UA

Come rain or shine, Paduans stroll under these arcades in the evening and at weekends, popping into the bars, pizzerias, restaurants and elegant shops. Padua is also the city of important artists such as the Florentine Giotto, who created one of his greatest works in the Cappella degli Scrovegni and Donatello, who sculpted incomparably impressive bronze statues for the basilica and square. A lively pub scene has developed in the narrow streets of the former Jewish ghetto with its tall houses, which is no surprise considering that almost a third of Padua’s 215,000 inhabitants are students! The city is unquestionably the economic hub of north-eastern Italy and a byword for the rapid economic growth that was brought about by the hard work and commitment of the enterprising small and mediumsized businesses. The Veneto region is the indisputable driving force behind the Italian economy, and Padua is its engine room. The flat, level city lies on the extreme eastern expanse of the Po Valley, just 40 kilometres from Venice and the Adriatic. To the south there are the Euganean hills with the famous hot springs and spas of Abano and Montegrotto. As they are so close to hand, they are frequented by Paduans looking for a

Euganean Hills

little relaxation, but they are also a magnet for cultural tourism. The perfectly level city is criss-crossed by watercourses and canals that are fed by the Brenta and Bacchiglione. The fact that the city is so close to the sea and is surrounded by water definitely affect the climate: summers are oppressively hot and humid, while in the winter months the city and surrounding countryside are often covered in thick fog for days on end.

History of the city THE FOUNDATION OF THE CITY Legend has it that Padua was

PA D UA

founded in circa 1184 BCE by the Trojan Prince Anthenor, who had survived the destruction of Troy. He came up the Brenta from the Adriatic and drove the Euganeans back into their hills to the south. This may be the stuff of legend, but archaeological finds confirm that there was indeed a prehistoric settlement in 1100–1000 BCE. THE ROMAN PERIOD Patavium, as Padua was known to Romans, expanded along the site of the modern-day city and was granted Roman civic rights in 49 BCE. The city developed into a wool-producing and horse-trading centre and was also an important stop on the route linking the most important Roman towns of that time. Via Annia (from Aquileia), Via Postumia (the Genoa–Venice route) and Via Claudia Augusta (that ran from Altino near Venice to Germania via the Adige Valley) all converged here. At that time Padua was the third-largest city in the Roman Empire after Rome and Cadiz in southern Spain. Padua thrived during this unprecedented four-hundred-year period of peace. In the fourth century CE the city converted to Christianity and the first churches were founded. The local cults of Saint Justine, Saint Prosdecimus (the city’s patron saint) and Saint Daniel, who is supposed to have been martyred in Padua, date back to this time. In 452 and 453 Attila and his Huns attacked and pillaged the city. A little less than a hundred years later Padua was caught between two opposing sides when the Longobards and the Eastern Roman Empire of Byzantium waged war on one another. In 589 Padua was devastated by floods and a little later it was destroyed by the Longobards. Some measure of peace

Euganean Hills

was restored only during the two centuries of Frankish domination. At the end of the eighth century Bishop Tricidio built the first cathedral; Benedictine monks then founded monasteries, and drained and improved the land. Around the year 1000 Padua became a free comune. Padua was then destroyed by an earthquake in 1117 and burnt to the ground in 1174; it also had to defend itself against the ruling Ezzelino family of Onara. The city’s university was founded in 1222, making it Italy’s oldest after Bologna (1088) and one of Europe’s oldest. In 1303–1305 Giotto frescoed the Scrovegni Chapel. THE AGE OF ARTISTS AND INTELLECTUALS In 1328 the Scaliger

family of Verona conquered the city and ruled it for a short time. The following years were Padua’s golden age for art. Masters such as Giusto de’ Menabuoi, Guariento, Altichiero and Petrarch were called to the court of the Carrara family, who came to power in 1318. Venice, however, was becoming increasingly powerful and in 1405 Padua submitted to the up and coming Venetian republic. The Carrara family spent their final days in the prisons of Venice. The next four centuries brought Padua peace and prosperity during which the university attracted intellectuals, including Galileo, from all over Europe.

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When Venice fell (1797) during the Napoleonic wars, Napoleon handed Padua to the Austrians. The Austrians were eventually defeated by the French and, after the Piedmontese and German alliance, the Veneto and thus also Padua became part of the new Kingdom of Italy in 1866.

PADUA ON THE INTERNET

PA D UA

MATTINOPADOVA.GELOCAL.IT Padua’s daily paper on the Internet. WWW.APADOVA.INFO/OSPEDALEPADOVA Hospital and health system, with the numbers of the guardia medica (medical service replacing GPs outside normal consulting hours). WWW.TURISMOPADOVA.IT The Paduan Province’s official tourist guide, with diary of events, ticket service, information on public transport, timetables, descriptions of the villas and castles and information on boat trips; also in English.

WWW.STRADADELVINOCOLLIEUGANEI.IT Detailed information on the wines from the Euganean hills. This is a good site for gourmets and also contains itineraries for cycle rides in the area; only in Italian. WWW.PADOVANET.IT The city platform, a community network with lots of information about the city and its province, with useful links, things to see, events, etc; only in Italian. WWW.SANTANTONIO.ORG This website dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padua contains an incredible amount of news, including an online edition of the Messaggero di San Antonio, a periodical devoted to Saint Anthony. The hard-copy version sells 570,000 copies, making it Italy’s most widely sold monthly.

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The best in brief PADOVA CARD This ticket gives entry to most of the tourist at-

tractions in and around Padua. For example, in Padua: the Capella degli Scrovegni (Scrovegni Chapel), Palazzo Zuckermann, Palazzo della Ragione, Oratorio San Rocco, Orto botanico (or botanical gardens), Musei Civici degli Eremitani, Battistero (baptistery), the cathedral, the upper storey of the Caffé Pedrocchi, the Oratorio San Michele. Two Padova Cards are available: a € 16 version, which is valid for 48 hours; a € 24 version, which is valid for 72 hours. The ticket can be bought online (promozione@turismopadova.it), at tourism offices, at the ticket desks of the Musei Civici degli Eremitani and in many large hotels. More from www.padovacard.it/ted/t_punti_vendita.php

CAPPELLA DEGLI SCROVEGNI 1 This small frescoed church in

www.cappelladegliscrovegni.it 8 Piazza Eremitani; Tel 049 2010020 The chapel can be visited only by prior arrangement and you are allowed only 20 minutes per visit: 9am–7pm, Summer 9am–10pm

PIAZZA DEI SIGNORI 2 It was here that, in the fourteenth cen-

tury, the imposing palazzo of the Carrara family, the Signori or lords of the city, stood, and that the power of municipal government was subsequently concentrated. Palazzo del Capitanio (1598-1605), was the residence for one of the two representative of the Venetian Republic, the capitano, or captain, as opposed to the podestà, or chief magistrate. Its façade surrounds a triumphal arch dating from 1532 with an impressive clock. Another significant building is the historical church of San Clemente, which was the merchants’ church in the Middle Ages and was rebuilt in the late sixteenth century.

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the east of the town is perhaps Padua’s most famous attraction. It was commissioned in the early fourteenth century by Enrico Scrovegni, the son of a famous merchant and banker to atone for any sins his father may have committed (his father was reputedly a usurer, and Dante put him in one of his circles of hell in the Divine Comedy). Comedy). The chapel contains a fresco cycle by Giotto depicting scenes from the Day of Judgement and the life of Jesus and Mary. It is a seminal work in the history of art because of its innovative, previously unimaginable realism.

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PIAZZA DELLE ERBE AND PIAZZA DELLA FRUTTA 3 The pictur-

esque, lively main marketplace hosts a daily fruit and vegetable market, as well as a flea market. In the middle is the imposing Palazzo della Ragione which divides the square into the southern Piazza delle Erbe (literally herbs or vegetables) and the northern Piazza della Frutta (literally fruit). Despite their names, fruit and vegetables are sold on the Piazza delle Erbe while the flea market is held on the Piazza della Frutta. Mondays–Fridays 7.30am–13.30pm, Saturdays 7.30am–8pm. Seventy market stalls. In the indoor market on the ground floor of the Palazzo della Ragione groceries, sausage, cheese, meat are sold along with baccalà (salt cod), an indispensable ingredient of the local cuisine. (Tourists may also find it rather unusual that the butchers sell sfilacci,, i.e. thin strips of smoked horse meat.) To the east the marketplace is bounded by the back of the Palazzo del Municipio, the old, thirteenth-century town hall. The statue of Justice (1552) between two arches on the ground floor should be seen as should the inner courtyard with the original 1539 façade and the 1526 staircase that leads up to

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the raised Doric inner courtyard from which the Palazzo della Ragione can be reached. The Piazza is where Paduans meet for an aperitif and “spritz”, an orange-red cocktail made of white wine, mineral water and a shot of Aperol. Wednesday evening is Uni evening, when the piazza belongs to the students! PALAZZO DELLA RAGIONE 4 The palazzo is also known as the

“Salone” because of its huge hall, or Salone, which is 78 metres long, 27 metres high and 27 metres wide. The building was erected in the thirteenth century as a court and chamber where trade disputes could be resolved. The dome, which looks like the overturned hull of a boat, was originally decorated with frescoes by Giotto that were destroyed in a fire in 1420 but were then immediately repainted from models. They are one of the largest astrological cycles in existence (over 200 metres). The wooden horse (1446) in the middle of the room is a copy of the equestrian statue of Gattamelata in front of the Basilica di Sant’Antonio. The pietra del Vituperio (literally, the stone of vituperations), is where those guilty of bankruptcy were made to sit in their undergarments in front of at least a hundred people while judges deliberated on their fate. Entrance from Piazza delle Erbe, Tel. 049 8205006 Tuesdays–Sundays 9am–6pm, Summer 9am–7pm; € 4

its predecessors, which date back to the fourth century, originally stood. In 1551, Michelangelo’s plans for a new cathedral were approved and construction continued to the middle of the eighteenth century, even though the façade was never completed. The sacristy contains paintings by Jacopo da Bassano and Tiepolo. The complex also includes a baptistery, which was built in the twelfth century and altered several times in the following century. It was also used by the Carrara family as a mausoleum and contains an amazing fresco cycle believed to be the masterpiece of Giusto de’ Menabuoi and was commissioned by Fina Buzzaccarini, the wife of Francesco I da Carrara. It is one of the greatest fourteenth-century works of its kind in Italy. The depiction of Paradise is at once beautiful and unusual, the saints in Heaven arranged in five circular rings. Piazza del Duomo, Tel. 049 656914 Daily 10am–6pm, € 3

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CATHEDRAL 5 The current cathedral is situated exactly where

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CAFFÈ PEDROCCHI 6 This historical café right in the heart of the

city is internationally famous. Until 1916 it was open day and night and was therefore known as the “Café without doors”. For over a hundred years it was a meeting place for intellectuals, students, academics and politicians. It became historically important in 1848 when the uprising against the Austrians was proclaimed here. The Pedrocchi was originally opened in 1772 as a coffee shop, and in the early nineteenth century the architect Giuseppe Japelli built the grandiose neoclassical marble building. It is still a café and reading room and for family and graduation celebrations. PRATO DELLA VALLE 7 At 88,620 square metres, this is one of Europe’s largest squares and certainly one of its most beautiful. In Roman times the Prato della Valle contained an amphitheatre (Campo Marzio); in the Middle Ages it became a marketplace that was gradually abandoned. Its present disposition dates back to the end of the eighteenth century and consists of the elliptical tree-lined Memmia Island, which is surrounded by a small canal and a double ring of 78 statues lining the banks and depicting important Paduan locals. The area now

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houses a small daily market, a larger weekly market (Saturdays) and a flea and antiques market (every third Sunday of the month). BASILICA SANTA GIUSTINA 8 The imposing 122-metre long ba-

silica was built in the sixth century over the grave of Saint Justine of Padua and has been a Benedictine monastery since the eighth century. The current church dates back to the sixteenth century, and its façade is incomplete. The basilica contains the popular relics of several saints, including the reputed remains of the evangelists Matthew and Luke. The sacristy is worth seeing for its valuable seventeenth-century wooden fittings, as well as the sixteenth-century choir, Veronese’s altar depiction of the martyrdom of Saint Justine, remnants of the eleventhand twelfth-century Romanesque church, connected cloister and library (open to the public). Free admission.

14 MUSEI CIVICI DEGLI EREMITANI Piazza Eremitani, Tel. 049 8204551, Tuesdays–Sundays 9am–7pm; € 10, together with the Scrovegni Chapel. € 12 Padua’s civic museum is located in the halls and cloisters of the former hermits’ monastery. Alongside numerous private collections acquired over the years there is also the archaeological museum, with finds from Padua and the surrounding area, and the Museum of Medieval and Modern Art with the great civic gallery displaying major works by Giotto (Christ on the Cross from the Scrovegni Chapel), Bellini, Veronese, Jacopo da Bassano, Tintoretto, Tiepolo and others. The wonderful Cappella is also part of the complex.

15 PALAZZO ZUCKERMANN Museo di arti applicate and Museo Bottacin, padova-cultura.padovanet.it/musei/ 33 Corso Garibaldi, Tel. 049 665567 Tuesdays–Sundays 9am–7pm; € 10; ticket that is also valid for the Scrovegni Chapel € 12 The large neo-Renaissance building was erected in the early twentieth century and was until recently the central post office. It is on the main route to the centre near the Scrovegni Chapel and Musei Civici degli Eremitani, opposite the park with the remains of the Roman arena. Since the renovation 2,000 arts and crafts items have been on display on the ground floor: glass, ceramics, silver, ivory, jewels and jewellery, textiles and furniture. The Nicola Bottacin collection on the upper floor includes significant coins and medallions.

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MUSEUMS

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EQUESTRIAN STATUE OF GATTAMELATA 9 The only item on the Piazza del Santo that has nothing to do with Saint Anthony is a bronze equestrian statue that the Venetian Republic commissioned in 1447 from Donatello. The statue was dedicated to Gattamelata, a “condottiere” or mercenary leader of mercenaries, to thank him for his military prowess in the defence of Venice in the war against the Visconti of Milan. It is considered one of the masterpieces of the Italian Renaissance.

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BASILICA DEL SANTO 10 The basilica, known simply as “The

Saint”, was built as a monumental tomb for Saint Anthony, a Portuguese friar who was reputed to be a miracle healer in his own lifetime. He spent the last months of his life in Padua and was canonised just a few months after his death. The basilica is a curious mix of different styles: the façade is Lombard Romanesque, the cupola Byzantine, the side façades Venetian-Gothic and the choir an exuberant Baroque, while the towers recall Islamic minarets. The basilica, besides the saint’s tomb and reliquaries from the twelfth and fifteenth centuries, contains a wealth of masterpieces: Donatello’s bronze statues on the main altar, the relief of the Deposition behind the altar, various Baroque chapels and the fourteenth-century vestigial frescoes of the crucifixion in the chapter house (attributed to Giotto). The four cloisters of the basilica can be reached from the sacristy; a staircase leads to the vast Biblioteca Antoniana (only for students). Attracting pilgrims from all over the world, the church is always full. An impressive procession is held each year on 13 June, the anniversary of the saint’s death. Free admission. CHIESA DEGLI EREMITANI 11 The church of the Hermits in Piazza

Eremitani was built in 1276 in honour of Saints Philip and James and is next to the ancient monastery, the Convento degli eremiti, which now houses the city museums. Originally, the church was magnificently decorated, but most of the decorations were completely destroyed in a 1944 air raid. The church boasts frescoes by Guariento and Giusto de’ Menabuoi, but pride of place is given to the frescoes of the Cappella Ovetari, a masterpiece of innovative realism by Andrea Mantegna. These frescoes were also destroyed during the bombardment, but were restored and have been on display since 2006. Free admission.

the former Ox Inn – hence the name (Al Bò). It was once the Medical Faculty with the famous Teatro Anatomico, the dissecting theatre that was also a lecture hall for students, and the Aula Magna or Great Hall. Today it is used for official and graduation ceremonies. Free access to the entrance hall, which is decorated with old corporations’ and dignitaries’ coats of arms. 2 Via VIII Febbraio, Tel. 049 8273044-47 Open at different times from Mondays to Saturdays; € 3

The ORTO BOTANICO 13 in Padua is the world’s oldest botanical garden. It was laid out in 1545 by the university in an ideal circular form with walls for medicinal plants and herbs; it was then extended. This refuge of quiet and contemplation from the bustle of modern life is in the centre of the city between the Basilica del Santo and the church of Saint Justine. www.ortobotanico.unipd.it 15 Via Orto Botanico, Tel. 049 8272119 Mondays–Sundays 9am–1pm, Summer also 3pm–7pm; 4 €

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PALAZZO DEL BÒ 12 The old university building is on the site of

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Eating and drinking CULINARY SECRETS AND THE SAINT’S BREAD Padua has a great

culinary tradition, which is reflected in the use of fresh regional products and a great number of typical, traditional dishes. Typical dishes from Padua’s Jewish tradition include oca in onto padovana (boned, salted goose meat preserved in goose fat) and falso parsuto [false ham], a goose breast ham from the plain south of Padua, the secret recipes of which have been handed down since the nineteenth century. The Veneto has always been a land of horse breeders, so horse meat is part of traditional local cuisine, as can be seen in the horsemeat bresaola, donkey salami, horse and donkey stew, and horsemeat cutlets and chops. Some of the desserts are traditionally Venetian, like zaleti and pan del santo [saint’s bread]. This is a sweet ring made with almonds, amaretti and chocolate. Then there is the dolce del santo,, a puff pastry cake filled with apricot jam, candied orange peel, sponge cake and marzipan.

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EATING AND DRINKING

16 ENOTECA RISTORANTE LA CORTE DEI LEONI 1 Via Pietro D’Abano, Tel. 049 8750083, closed Sunday evenings and Mondays at lunch time This is an excellent place for rediscovering the somewhat different culinary tradition of the old inhabitants of Padua. 6 CAFFÉ PEDROCCHI 15 Via Otto Febbraio, Tel. 049 8781231 Since 1831. Central, distinguished and stylish, this is one of Italy’s historical coffee houses, honoured with the designation “locale storico d’Italia”.

OSTERIA DEI FABBRI 13 Via dei Fabbri, Tel. 049 650336, closed Sundays The restaurant is near Piazza delle Erbe, at the entrance to the old Ghetto, in a palazzo whose furnishings date from the nineteenth century. Relaxed atmosphere, traditional fare. 17

18 DONNA IRENE 1 Vicolo Pontecorvo, Tel. 049 656852, closed Mondays This place is near the Basilica of Saint Anthony and is known for its wines (over 120 wines to choose from), which can be combined with traditional Veneto dishes or classical dishes. Also open for aperitifs. The restaurant has a large garden that is open in summer. 19 LA RISORTA OSTERIA DEL RE FOSCO 5 Via Cassan, Tel. 049 8774159, closed Sundays, www.risortaosteriadelrefosco.it The restaurant is a mixture of old and new, with tables also available in the mezzanine under the old vault. Live music on some Saturdays. Young clientele, thanks to the simple meals and good wines. 20 ANFORA 13 Via dei Soncin, Tel. 049 656629, closed Sundays, www.anforaosteria.it In the narrow streets of the old Ghetto, locals young and old crowd to this little osteria. Some days the throng is such that you might only find standing room at the counter. Simple, typical dishes; good wines, also available by the glass.

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15 LA FOLPERIA Tel. 347 5701232, lafolperia@gmail.com, also on Facebook. A “folpo” (in Venetian), or “polipo” in Italian, is a squid, and a “folperia” is, therefore, just the place if this is what your culinary heart desires. At one stand in the Piazza della Frutta, at the corner of the Bar dei Osei, steaming hot boiled squid is sold that the local eat standing up, the same way as we might eat a hot dog. It might look a little strange, but it tastes delicious!

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PADUA AT A GLANCE We begin our walk round the city at the Basilica di Sant’Antonio, one of the most important centres of Christendom and also a work of art of the first order. After visiting the church observe the equestrian statue of Gattamelata on the square. North of the church you can walk along Via del Santo, which has benefited from traffic-calming measures and is full of little shops and bars. After reaching the impressive Palazzo Zabarella, turn left into Via San Francesco and you will find yourself in Via Otto Febbraio in front of the old university, Palazzo del Bò. You’re now in the thick of the old city centre: Caffè Pedrocchi, the City Hall, Piazza delle erbe and Palazzo della Ragione. Via Daniele Manin takes you to the Loggia del Consiglio (Gran Guardia), Palazzo

del Capitanio and the square with the cathedral and the baptistry (frescoes by Giusto de’ Menabuo), considered by many to be a very good alternative to the Scrovegni Chapel on the east side of the city that can only be visited if you’ve booked in advance. Opposite the cathedral square turn into the narrow, atmospheric Via dei Soncin in the old Ghetto with its little shops and pubs, and then continue along adjoining Via San Martino e Solferino. At the end of the street turn right into the central, broad Via Roma. The adjoining Via Umberto I (both are fine commercial roads) leads to the magnificent Prato della Valle square. At its eastern side Via Beato Luca Belludi runs past souvenir shops and will bring you back to the Basilica. The walk takes you about two or three hours.

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EVENTS IN THE PROVINCE OF PADUA , April: Maratona di Sant’Antonio. On the third weekend in April, a large urban marathon with participants from all over the world. , May: Sagra dei Bisi in Lumignano, at the foot of the Berici hills. On two weekends in the middle of May the pea takes centre stage in the pubs and festival marquees of Lumignano. For more information: call 0444 953399. , Mid June–mid July: Portello River Festival, a film festival in the multicultural Portello district. On the canal. For more information: call 348 4430112, www.riverfilmfestival.org (also in English). , 13. June: Festa di San Antonio.. A festival celebrating the city’s patron saint with procession attracting pilgrims from all over the world. The day before, the Prato della Valle square hosts an important fair with exhibitors. , July–August: Notturni d’arte.. Innovative, fun nocturnal guided tours and events in the city’s museums. For more information: call 049 8204501. , 15 August: Midsummer fireworks on the Prato della Valle square. , September: Il Palio di Sant’Antonio.. Medieval festival with “cart race” through the city districts of Monastero, Brolo, Capodiponte and Grate. www.palioarcella.it (in Italian). , November: the Padova Porsche Jazz Festival attracts the greats of international jazz. www.padovaporschejazzfestival.it (in Italian).

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USEFUL INFORMATION MAIN EMERGENCY NUMBERS Police 113, Carabinieri 112, Fire Brigade 115

places and internet connection in hotel rooms is available in almost all hostels and medium- and high-standard hotels.

HOSPITALS: The A&E department and on-duty medical Unit are 24 hours available. The number to call is 118

PUBLIC TRANSPORT: Normally railway stations are located very close to the town centre, and bus stations are nearby. PHARMACIES: Indicative opening hours: Almost all the towns can be reached by Mon.-Fri.: morning: 8.30/9.00-12.30 train, apart from some villages which can afternoon: 3.30/4.00-7.30 only be reached through local buses. A lot Sat: 8,30/9,00-12,30 of the medium and long-distance trains have bike carriages: these can be easily CURRENCY: The currency is the Euro. checked by looking for the pictogram of Other currencies are generally not accepta bike on the timetables located in all the ed, but they can be exchanged in every stations. bank, while it is possible to use ATM and TAXIS are quite expensive almost everywhere. LOCAL BUSES are recommended to move across town, even though in some places they can be infrequent and the waiting times may not be short. Credit Cards for your purchases almost everywhere. On the contrary, cheques may not be accepted everywhere. Banks. Indicative opening hours: Mon-Fri 8.20 a.m.-1.20 p.m/2.30-3.30 p.m. POST OFFICES: Indicative opening hours: Mon-Sat 8.30 a.m.-1.30 p.m. Consulates: Many Countries have their consulates in Venice, while others are located in different towns of the Veneto area. The complete list is available on various websites. Internet cafes are quite common in the main towns and tourist

SHOPS: Opening Hours: Mon-Sat: morning 8.30/9.00-12.30/1.00 p.m. afternoon: 3.30/4.00-7.30/8.00 p.m. Some supermarkets have adopted the continuous opening hours Mon-Sat 9.00 a.m.-7.00 p.m. Closing day. Food shops and supermarkets: Wed. afternoon, other shops: Mon. morning Indicative opening hours of RESTAURANT KITCHENS. 12-14,30/19-22,30 August is traditionally the holiday month for both shops and restaurants.

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R E E N S

G R E E N S were born from the need to provide cyclists with information on the Girolibero tour in Italy and France. G R E E N S consist of 3 books: • a tourist guide for cyclists • a complete set of maps for the tour • a roadbook Other G R E E N S are being prepared for: Sicily, Loire Valley...

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La collana di mappe, roadbook e guide GREENS Ă¨ edita da Girolibero, lo specialista delle vacanze facili in bicicletta. Girolibero organizza tour su piste ciclabili e strade lontane dal traffico, con pernottamento in hotel selezionati e trasporto bagagli, con destinazioni in tutto il mondo. Ogni partenza Ă¨ gestita con cura dalla sede di Vicenza, da un team di oltre 40 persone, meccanici e addetti alla logistica. www.girolibero.it