SHOP London Lux AW14

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Welcome to London Even if you’re familiar with London’s world-class fashion style, you may be surprised to discover just how infuential the classic British trench coat has been. Find out more in our feature on page 52. In this edition, we also take an in-depth look at London’s status as the international capital of design (page 58) and profle Anya Hindmarch, the city’s accessories queen (page 64). SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you everything you need to know about your chosen destination: the top global brands, the local favourites you shouldn’t miss and the essential stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the website. And don’t forget to download the Global Blue mobile app! With this edition of SHOP, the Global Blue app and your Global Blue Card, you’re ready to enjoy the best that London has to ofer.

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Lyndon Hayes The infuences on Lyndon Hayes’s beautiful paintings include artist Peter Blake and photographer Lee Friedlander. Lyndon has previously created illustrations for the Observer, Time and Wallpaper, among others, and his work is regularly exhibited in London galleries. His intimate knowledge of London made him the perfect choice to illustrate the cover of the city’s luxury edition of SHOP this season. Inspired by our feature on page 52, the cover shows an elegant woman wearing the Burberry trench coat, a timeless wardrobe staple, walking down a typical London street. Read more about our illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

PHOTO: SAm PeLLy PHOTOgRAPHy

ILLUSTRATION: LyNdON HAyeS

Contributors

Stephen Doig Stephen Doig, SHOP’s features editor, is a also a regular columnist for the men’s section of the Telegraph, a former Harper’s Bazaar staf member and has written for Vogue, GQ and the Financial Times.

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Kirsty Welsh Chanel devotee Kirsty Welsh is SHOP’s online managing editor and boasts a handbag collection as large as the list of publications she has written for. She is a former contributor to Elle UK, Look magazine and the Sunday Telegraph.

Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims contributes to publications that include the Financial Times, Independent, Observer, Wallpaper and Esquire. His latest book, 50 Years of British Style Culture, was published in 2012.

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Contents

PHOTO: Paul BrOwn/DemOTix

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p rOD u c t s 22 Check Out sHOp selects a standout piece from London this season 24 My Favourites Designer ethan K reveals his top tips for autumn/winter 2014/15 26 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 32 Street Style Our pick of the best dressed at London Fashion Week n eWs 36 Shop Window One store not to be missed in London 38 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products 48 In Store … … with Mei chung, head menswear buyer at the expertly curated Browns boutique

F e at u r e s 52 Cover Story: In Focus: The Burberry Trench Coat the Burberry trench coat is a longstanding British outerwear classic and, says stephen Doig, a national treasure 58 Top Of The World London’s fourishing creative scene is cementing the city’s position as the international capital of design. Josh sims picks the cream of the crop 64 Bags For Life anya Hindmarch, one of London’s favourite accessories designers, talks to Frances Wasem about the evolution of her brand e x pe r i e nce 70 Table Talk London’s restaurants ofer a wealth of variety, from gourmet international cuisine to refned restaurants centred on high-quality British produce. Verity Hogan reports 76 Stay In Style sHOp’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

Above: The Sun, artist Dale Chihuly’s striking glass sculpture in Berkeley Square, illuminated at night

WELCOME TO OUR WORLD

At the heart of the most extreme missions are the exceptional pilots who experience daring feats on a daily basis and are prepared to entrust their security only to the most high-performing instruments. At the heart of the most extreme missions is the Breitling Avenger. A concentrated blend of power, precision and functionality, Avenger models boast an ultra-sturdy construction and water resistance ranging from 300 to 3,000 meters. These authentic instruments for professionals are equipped with selfwinding movements chronometercertiﬁed by the COSC – the highest ofﬁcial benchmark in terms of reliability and precision. Welcome to the sphere of extremes. Welcome to the Breitling world.

SUPER AVENGER II

Contents

Gu i de 80 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of London, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights 96 My City Patrick Brown of Savile Row tailor e Tautz shares his London recommendations

T R a n S L aT i On S 106 Русский Перевод 112 美文翻译 117 SOu v e n i R 118 The essential item to bring home

eSSenTi a LS 100 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

E n gl i s h | Р ус с к и й | 中文

Online

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

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FASHION

COMPETITIONS

Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-theminute shopping tips and insider information.

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Meisterstück Heritage Perpetual Calendar and Hugh Jackman Crafted for New Heights Featuring one of the most delicate complications in fine watchmaking, the Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Perpetual Calendar will require no adjustments until the year 2100, so long as its self-winding Calibre MB 29.15 is kept sufficiently wound. Housed in a 39 mm 18K red gold case, this refined timepiece truly promises to be a lifetime companion. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com

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TIME, SAVER This season Swiss watchmaker Breitling has unveiled the latest incarnation of a watch that is not only the frst of its kind, but could also save your life. The frst wristwatch with an integrated personal locator beacon, the Breitling Emergency, now available in black titanium, is not only a beautifully crafted piece of wristwear, but also a survival instrument for even the most extreme adventures. Thanks to the watch’s dual frequency microtransmitter, the wearer can trigger an alert on the CospasSave up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100

Sarsat satellite system, guiding emergency rescue services to their location, no matter where they are in the world. The watch works in the most extreme conditions, operating faultlessly in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees below zero to a scorching 55 degrees Celsius – and looks great while withstanding extreme conditions. rp Breitling Emergency Night Mission watch, £13,570, Breitling, 130 New Bond Street, London W1S 2TA, +44 (0)20 7499 8596, breitling.com * for map go to page 85

PHOTO: VENZIN+BUEHLER

Check Out

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My Favourites: ethan K Designer Ethan K was born into a Singaporean family with four generations in the exotic leather business. He launched his eponymous label in 2009, expertly using leather from his family’s tannery to create beautiful handbags. He shares his tips about products and places in London, where he recently opened a space in Harrods, with Ximena Daneri

1. ‘I’m inspired by contemporary artists such as Dale Chihuly. You can fnd his glass works in the V&A and Berkeley Square right now. He has a very rich use of colour, and I’ve been inspired by one of his chandeliers recently’ The Sun 2014 by Dale Chihuly, Berkeley Square, London W1, chihuly.com

4. ‘M/Mink by Byredo is my favourite fragrance. It smells of ink but it’s very sensual at the same time. I really value unique products’

5. ‘The shoe is the second home of a man, just as the bag is for a woman. Bespoke is the way forward and, of course, we all love John Lobb’

Byredo M Mink fragrance, 50ml, £88, Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, byredo.com

John Lobb bespoke shoes, from £3,440, John Lobb, 9 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1EF, +44 (0)20 7930 3664, johnlobbltd.co.uk

2. ‘One of my favourite bags is the Alla, with its hedgehog clasp. I love hedgehogs; they are very nimble, they are explorers’

3. ‘Afternoon tea at Claridge’s hotel is more than a product, it’s an experience. I think in today’s world experiences are very important’ Claridge’s, 49 Brook Street, London W1K 4HR, +44 (0)20 7629 8860, claridges.co.uk

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100

PHOTO: Paul BrOwn/DemOTix

Ethan K Harrods Alla bag with 18-carat dipped gold hedgehog feature, £10,000, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, ethan-k.com

PHOTOS: (2) geneSiS/jOSHua Tan; (4) © BOHman & SjöSTranD aB

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CITY LIVING A cosy yet elegant jacket and some stylish fat boots prepare you for a jaunt around London

1. Mulberry Cara Delevingne Collection backpack, £1,400, Mulberry, 41-42 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RY, +44 (0)20 77491 3900, mulberry.com

3. Caron crystal perfume amphora, £470, Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, London W1A 1ER, +44 (0)20 7734 8040, parfumscaron.com

2. Casadei leather biker boots, £950, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, casadei.com

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4. Pinko Camelia coat, £1,340, Pinko, 161 Brompton Road, London SW3 1QU, +44 (0)20 7584 6524, pinko.it

PHOTO: (4) TOMMASO VECCHI

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DARK RIDER

1. Alexander McQueen Military De Manta carryall, £745, Alexander McQueen, 9 Savile Row, London W1S 3PF, +44 (0)20 7494 8840, alexandermcqueen.com

3. Shamballa Jewels Laughing Skull necklace, price on request, Frost of London, 108 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EF, +44 (0)20 3372 0108, shamballajewels.com

2. Tod’s cashmere scarf, £255, Tod’s, 2-5 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4PE, +44 (0)20 7493 2237, tods.com Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100

4. Canali leather gloves, £730, Canali, 126-127 New Bond Street, London W1S 1DZ, +44 (0)20 7290 3500, canali.it

PHOTO: (1) BernHard deckerT

Embrace biker style with black leather and add an unexpected touch with luxurious jewellery

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5. Church’s umbrella, £300, Church’s, 133 New Bond Street, London W1S 2TE, +44 (0)20 7493 1474, church-footwear.com 6. Diesel L-Seddik leather jacket, £710, Diesel, 43 Earlham Street, London WC2H 9LX, +44 (0)20 7497 5543, diesel.com

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7. Bottega Veneta perfume, 50ml, £50, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, bottegaveneta.com

8. Bally boots, £825, Bally, 37 Brompton Road, London SW3 1DE, +44 (0)20 7491 7062, bally.com

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MAN ABOUT TOWN

Combine a sharp shirt with sophisticated accessories and you’re good to go

1. Boss boots, £350, Hugo Boss, 9 Carnaby Street, London W1F 9PE, +44 (0)20 7851 9370, hugoboss.com 2. Tom Ford belt, £490, Tom Ford, 201-202 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QX, +44 (0)20 3141 7800, tomford.com

3. Hackett gloves, £195, Hackett, 193-197 Regent Street, London W1B 4LY, +44 (0)20 7494 4917, hackett.com 4. Ermenegildo Zegna Couture bag, £2,165, Ermenegildo Zegna, 203 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QX, +44 (0)20 7201 7000, zegna.com

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100

5. Burberry foral shirt, £350, Burberry, 121 Regent Street, London W1B 4TB, +44 (0)20 7806 8904, burberry.com

PHOTOS: (3) TAG CREATIVE STUDIO; (4) CARLO BEVILACQUA

Juergen Teller GOLD

LABEL/ACCESSORIES A/W 14-15 www.viviennewestwood.com Leonard Peltier is innocent

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Street Style

PHOTOS: Melanie Galea/THeSTreeTMuSe.iT

Contrasting shapes and textures added an interest to monochrome outfts at London Fashion Week and provided a dose of spontaneity and fun

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The sharpest male dressers were found of the catwalks at London Fashion Week. Tailoring with a twist was the order of the day, with eye-catching accessories providing ofbeat elegance

PHOTOS: EmanuElE Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;angElO/lc-jOurnal.cOm

Street Style

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Shop Window

FENDI’S BOND STREET BOUTIQUE Fendi’s new fagship is now open on London’s prestigious Bond Street. The three-storey building dates back to the 19th century; original brick walls have been left exposed, complemented by gold and cream furnishings, wooden parquet fooring and bespoke artworks, creating an airy and inviting environment for the brand’s full women’s ready-to-wear and accessories collections. Fendi’s famous Baguette bags are displayed against a wall that Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100

sprouts 30,000 glossy bronze rods, while the central staircase spirals around a magnifcent blue Murano glass chandelier. In the made-toorder salon, Fendi master artisans are on hand to personalise the iconic Peekaboo, Selleria and Baguette handbags while customers further explore the fur, accessories and watches rooms. The lower-ground foor showcases the new Fendi menswear concept; the complete product range, comprising clothing, footwear and accessories, is available in the store. gl Fendi, 141 New Bond Street, London W1S 2BS, +44 (0)20 7927 4172, fendi.com * for map go to page 85

TH E T O R U N B A N G L E

15 N E W BON D S TR EE T LON DON W1 S 3 S T — H A R RODS 87-135 B ROMPTON ROA D LON DON S W1 X 7 X L SELFR IDGE S 4 0 0 OX FOR D S TR EE T LON DON W1A 1A B SELFRIDGES THE TR AFFORD CENTRE 1 THE DOME MANCHESTER M17 8DA GEORGJENSEN.COM 0207 499 6541

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LONDON SAYS HELLO TO HEDI Despite initial controversy surrounding his appointment as creative director, Hedi Slimane has worked his magic at Saint Laurent, introducing the long-established Parisian fashion house to a new generation of fans. Following the opening of Saint Laurent’s Paris fagship last year, the brand has now opened its London branch. Designed by Hedi Slimane himself, the Sloane Street boutique follows the same theme as the Paris store and is infuenced by the art deco movement. Visitors can expect a highly sophisticated monochrome colour palette, minimal modernist furnishings and plenty of marbled and mirrored surfaces. The décor complements Slimane’s rock ‘n’ roll-inspired designs perfectly. irs Saint Laurent, 171-172 Sloane Street, London SWIX 9QG, +44 (0)20 7235 6706, ysl.com * for map go to page 92

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ROCK ON, JOHN For decades John Varvatos has been redefning the rock-‘n’-roll menswear aesthetic. The latest collection from the go-to brand for tailoring with a rock edge sees mohair, checks and shearling embellish standout pieces, while purple, mauve and heather tones help to break up the largely monochrome palette. This season also sees the brand open its frst fagship store outside the US, on London’s Conduit Street. The largest John Varvatos store in the world, the aesthetic is inspired by the label’s Maddison Avenue boutique, which is refned and elegant. The new boutique is also set to feature a live music space showcasing the designer’s own extensive rock memorabilia collection. rp John Varvatos, 12-13 Conduit Street, London W1S 2XQ, johnvarvatos.com * for map go to page 87

WATCH THIS SPACE Watches of Switzerland has opened a new fagship store in London. Occupying a prominent 17,000-square-foot space on Regent Street, the three-foor store ofers a vast collection from over 20 of the world’s most renowned watchmakers and is the largest timepiece showroom in Europe. A staircase sculpted from metal, glass and marble is the centrepiece of this luxurious, contemporary space, where 12 interior boutiques, dedicated to leading brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre, create intimate areas for browsing. Highly trained staf ofer expert guidance. State-of-the-art technology is installed throughout the space, while an interactive video screen in the Calibre Room takes customers on a visual journey through the history of Watches of Switzerland. gl Watches of Switzerland, 155 Regent Street, London W1B 4AD, +44 (0)20 7534 9810, watches-of-switzerland.co.uk * for map go to page 88 globalblue.com

PHOTO: Ed REEvE

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ROKSANDA OPENS ON MOUNT STREET Mayfair’s Mount Street is fast becoming London’s new luxury shopping hot spot, as a host of exciting fashion brands set up store. Joining the likes of Céline, Nicholas Kirkwood and Gianvito Rossi, Roksanda Ilincic has chosen the stylish street as the location for her debut standalone store. The British-based designer, who has recently rebranded her label as simply Roksanda, has won acclaim for her

brightly coloured, boldly feminine designs. The store’s interior design was created in collaboration with architect David Adjaye and showcases the colourful clothing creations against a backdrop of soft and speckled grey concrete walls, punctuated with glints of golden shelving. Zigzag marble fooring and glossy pink counter-top blocks add a quirky, fun element to the space, which the designer describes as an extension of her dresses. gl Roksanda, 9 Mount Street, London W1K 3NG, +44 (0)20 7613 6499, roksanda.com * for map go to page 84

BELLES OF THE BALL This autumn/winter, luxury department store Harvey Nichols adds to its expertly curated collection of designer wares with the introduction of Noir by husband and wife design team Sachin & Babi. The couple met while studying fashion in New York and became popular with some of the world’s most revered design houses for their elaborate textile creations, which feature handcrafted details and embroideries. The Noir line focuses on modern eveningwear for women and ofers a selection of distinctive dresses, full skirts and bodices in an exciting array of prints, colours and styles to suit all body types. For elegant ball gowns and red carpet glamour, an ensemble from Noir by Sachin & Babi is sure to make you stand out. gl Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RJ, +44 (0)20 7235 5000, harveynichols.com * for map go to page 91 Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100

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ENGLISH CHARM In 1980, British designer Graeme Ellisdon founded Osprey London with a small collection of handmade leather belts. The beautifully crafted creations gained the attention of some of London’s most prestigious retailers, and before long the brand expanded to ofer leather bags and accessories for both men and women. Today the brand ofers an eclectic collection of clothing, homeware, taxidermy, fragrances and candles, crafted from highquality natural materials sourced from around the world. Ellisdon, whose father was a carpenter, enjoys working with raw, natural materials and transforming them into beautiful, durable objects. Discover the Osprey London collections at the recently opened fagship on Regent Street. The store has a wonderful air of English eccentricity and charm, with objects and curiosities to be discovered in every corner. There is a complimentary gift-wrapping service, and you can enjoy the great British tradition of tea and cake at the in-store café while you wait. gl Osprey London, 27 Regent Street, London SW1Y 4NQ, +44 (0)7927 650111, ospreylondon.com * for map go to page 90

PHOTO: © SHarOn COOPer 2014

STEP OUT WITH PINET

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Retaining the charm of an old-school Parisian cobbler, the Pinet boutique occupies a prominent corner of New Bond Street and ofers a carefully considered collection of luxury leather handbags and footwear for both men and women. The international selection of brands available includes Stuart Weitzman from New York, Moreschi from Italy and Barker Black from Britain. Visit the store to discover beautifully crafted leather shoes and accessories to suit all occasions. gl Pinet, 47-48 New Bond Street, London W1S 1DJ, +44 (0)20 7629 2174 * for map go to page 85

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LONGCHAMP’S NEW LOOK Founded in Paris in 1948, Longchamp has become one of the world’s most popular handbag brands. Its Le Pliage shopping tote is considered a wardrobe staple for its lightweight yet durable design, and is available in an everincreasing array of colours and fnishes. Discover the full range of Longchamp handbag collections, alongside men’s and women’s clothing, luggage and accessories, at the newly refurbished boutique on New Bond Street. Brightly coloured, kaleidoscopic feature walls and an airy environment make for a delightfully uplifting shopping experience, with three storeys to explore. gl Longchamp, 28 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RJ, +44 (0)20 7493 5515, longchamp.com * for map go to page 85

Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trip. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store and can also be downloaded for offline use enabling you to create your own itinerary. You can also sign up for the Global Blue Card and, once you’re logged in the My Tax Refund wallet becomes available, allowing you to track pending refunds.

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Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

PHOTO: MeLVYn VInCenT 2014

SHOP THE WORLD

The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase you make in every different country you visit. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com

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CLASSICS REBORN

EVERYDAY LUXURY

Lovers of quintessential British style often herald Paul Smith as the epitome of cool English design. Now fans of the label can extend his designs from their wardrobes into their living rooms, as the designer has announced his collaboration with textile manufacturer Maharam and furniture company Carl Hansen & Søn, to celebrate the hundredth anniversary of the birth of celebrated Danish furniture designer Hans J Wegner. The collaboration sees some of Wegner’s classic designs, including the Wishbone chair, with its innovative Y-shaped back, and the three-legged Shell chair, re-imagined in a range of Paul Smith striped textiles, creating a wonderful marriage of quirky British style with minimalist Danish design. rp Paul Smith, 9 Albemarle Street, London W1S 4BL, +44 (0)20 7493 4565, paulsmith.co.uk * for map go to page 87

Handmade shoes, while undoubtedly a luxurious addition to any man’s wardrobe, are almost always restricted to formal attire. However, London shoe brand Carréducker is bucking the trend at historic Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes. Founders James Ducker and Deborah Carré have created a range of shoes designed to work with any man’s wardrobe, and even ofer a bespoke service to work with

MANHATTAN COOL Founded in a Manhattan loft in 1941, New York brand Coach originally specialised in small, beautifully crafted leather goods. Over the years its oferings have expanded to include fragrances, watches, outerwear, luggage and much more. This season’s ready-towear collection, the frst from acclaimed British accessories designer Stuart Vevers, features a palette of rich autumnal colours that complement relaxed silhouettes. Inspired by American heritage and modern Manhattan cool, the range is a relaxed take on sporty style. Paired with accessories in black leather, it ofers a youthful, modern approach to luxury. hl Coach, 41-42 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RY, +44 (0)20 3141 8901, coach.com * for map go to page 85

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customers to create their perfect pair of shoes. Choose from a range of contemporary styles, from chukka boots to penny loafers, in a variety of hand-stitched leathers, including English oak-bark tanned leather and German box calf hide, alongside more exotic lizard, snakeskin, crocodile and perch. rp Carréducker at Gieves & Hawkes, 1 Savile Row, London W1S 3JR, +44 (0)20 7432 6428, carreducker.com * for map go to page 87

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PHOTO: Andrew MerediTH

Selfridges

MENSWEAR MADE PERSONAL After recently expanding and revamping its world-class menswear department, Selfridges has unveiled a new and unparalleled shopping service designed especially for the male customer in search of a truly personalised shopping experience. Selfridges’ menswear department has the most comprehensive selection of any department store in the world, from formal attire and contemporary fashion apparel to footwear and accessories. The new fve-star service allows customers to shop the fabulous ofer using the expertise and advice of a dedicated personal shopper. The store’s new Men’s Personal Shopping department, laid out over 120 square metres, comprises three elegant private suites, a reception area and a stylish salon space globalblue.com

complete with foor-to-ceiling library. Designed by architect Alex Cochrane, the department has the look and feel of an exclusive gentlemen’s club and displays works by world-renowned artists, including a piece by Damien Hirst. Although Selfridges’ Men’s Personal Shopping is frst and foremost a fashionfocused ofer, it also enables customers to purchase gifts, fne jewellery and watches, grooming products and other goods from all six foors of the London store. The new Men’s Personal Shopping department joins Selfridges’ Everyman cinema – a new in-store movie theatre showing a variety of cinematic classics, new releases and fashion flms – in reafrming why the famous store has been voted the world’s best department store three times consecutively. Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), selfridges.com * for map go to page 84

basler-fashion.com

For retail enquiries call +44 (0)20 7225 5203

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In Store: Browns In 1970, Joan and Sidney Burstein opened the fashion-forward multibrand boutique Browns on South Molton Street. The venture grew rapidly, expanding into four adjacent Georgian townhouses by 1979. Joan Burstein, afectionately known as Mrs B, has been instrumental in introducing exciting new fashion brands to the UK, including Missoni, Donna Karan and Comme des Garçons. The Browns menswear division, opened in 1976, ofers one of the most expertly curated selections available anywhere in the world. Head menswear buyer Mei Chung takes Ximena Daneri on a tour of the boutique and shares some of her hot tips for the best new season buys

‘I’ve been working for Browns for almost 14 years now. The DNA of Browns is what frst attracted me to the company. Mrs B was the frst to believe and support unknown names, discovering new talent and new designers. It’s special to be a part of this story, championing new talent and discovering beautiful products. A lot of my job involves working closely with designers and even students, to develop their pieces and take them to the next level. ‘Our customers are a beautiful mix! They have colourful backgrounds and range from students to artists, celebrities to entrepreneurs. After 14 years, I have many memories, but confdentiality with clients means that what happens in menswear stays in menswear! ‘The store is like your own personal space; it’s like coming home and stepping into your own wardrobe. It’s a comfortable and stylish place to shop and hang out. As you come in, on the staircase, you will see a small and very intimate art gallery wall. We use fashion as a platform to showcase underground artists who have a very niche following. ‘There is no set layout. We create weekly new concepts with the pieces that come in, so the store always has a diferent angle. Lots of people don’t know that there are two beautiful rooms upstairs, so my favourite part of the design is the spiral staircase leading you to what may be hiding at the top. Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100

‘Our latest exclusive is by one of Britain’s most-loved young designers, James Long. He has created a small collection of exclusive bags just for Browns, featured on his spring/summer 2015 runway show, that we made available to buy straight from the catwalk. ‘There’s no rigid process or set of rules to menswear buying. However, a clear understanding of your store, knowledge of your current clientele and establishing new clients around the world will lead to new discoveries. ‘My top pick for autumn/winter 2014/15 is the Raf Simons x Sterling Ruby collaboration: it’s wearable art! Look out for Saint Laurent, especially the beautiful striped, sequinned evening jacket. Haider Ackermann has made beautiful unstructured evening jackets in jacquard print. Hood By Air is the best urban streetwear of the season. New and exclusive to Browns is Cedric Jacquemyn, a Belgian designer and Antwerp graduate who specialises in beautiful washed vintage fabrics. ‘When it comes to trends, I’m seeing a rise in denim, which is now appearing in formal and structured pieces. Also, jacquard lurex fabrics in jackets and pants, and loads of Neoprene, especially in jackets and in sweatshirts.’ Browns, 24-27 South Molton Street, London W1K 5RD, +44 (0)20 7514 0016, brownsfashion.com * for map go to page 84

PHOTO: XIMENA DANERI

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The Burberry trench coat is a long-standing British outerwear classic and, says Stephen Doig, a national treasure

In FoCus:

The Burberry Trench Coat

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There are few sartorial sights as quintessentially British as that of a handsome, impeccably made Burberry trench coat protecting its owner against the drizzle of a London winter – perhaps when he or she is making a dash up the regency splendour of Regent Street. This classic piece of clothing is woven into the fabric of British history and culture, has played a part in some of the country’s most pivotal moments and supports a British manufacturing industry that keeps communities alive. The trench coat has appeared in various reincarnations under current Burberry creative director Christopher Bailey – nipped, tucked and reworked with beads, fringing, see-through fabrics and painterly splashes – but it has remained a solid style investment for over 100 years. The trench has sheltered some impressively iconic fgures, from Humphrey Bogart and Winston Churchill to Audrey Hepburn and

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Previous: the Kensington Burberry Heritage trench coat

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Above (clockwise from lef): company founder Thomas Burberry; the Tielocken coat was patented by Thomas Burberry in 1912; the Westminster Burberry Heritage trench coat for women; the Westminster for men

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When you slip on a Burberry trench coat you’re wearing a piece of British history and craft expertise

Diana, the late Princess of Wales, and is an enduring part of both Burberry’s and Britain’s style history. In 1856 Thomas Burberry, a draper’s apprentice, set about launching an outdoor clothing company and found his clothes swiftly enlisted for military purposes. In 1912, Burberry patented a long coat called the Tielocken, which would later go on to be called the trench coat, designed to protect army and naval ofcers against Britain’s harsh weather. These ofcers carried on wearing the coat of-duty. Stylistic adjustments were made to suit its military purpose – epaulettes were added to carry military badges and, according to fashion folklore, military items were attached to the D-shaped belt buckle. The Burberry trench is unique because of the fabric innovation at its heart. Thomas Burberry is credited with the invention of gabardine, the tightly woven cloth that the trench was traditionally made from. Until Above (from top): Thomas Burberry designed clothing to protect against the unpredictable British weather; gabardine, the breathable, weatherproof cloth that revolutionised rainwear; Burberry advertisement for the coats available at the London Haymarket store, 1934

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gabardine appeared, fabrics had to be waxed or rubberised to repel water, making them heavy and ungainly. By increasing density and thread count, Burberry created a fabric that allowed ventilation but was robust enough to repel water – a new direction for outerwear. As well as outftting British people for generations, the trench has also kept many skilled workers in employment in the UK. Burberry trench coats are made in Castleford in the north of England, by craftspeople who combine traditional skills with modern technology. The gabardine fabric is woven here, checked by eye to ensure that the cloth is fawless. It takes around three weeks to make one coat, with over 100 steps involved. One trench coat collar is so complex that craftsmen must train for a year to learn how to stitch this piece alone, to ensure it sits on the neck in a fuid, easy manner. The back pleat and detailing of the cufs and straps are

handcut and handcrafted; the line of the back pleat remains the same as it did when the coat was worn for horse riding, to allow movement and ventilation. Whether you choose classic caramel with Burberry’s instantly recognisable checked lining or a high-shine metallic version, when you slip on a Burberry trench coat you’re wearing a piece of British history and craft expertise burberry.com

Above (from top): crafing the Burberry Heritage trench coat; Burberry’s archives are full of images, such as this one, that show the company’s rich heritage

Top London’s fourishing creative scene, from established stars to bright contemporary talents to the future names to watch, is cementing the city’s position as the international capital of design. Josh Sims picks the cream of the crop

PHOTO: LOnDOn DESign FESTivaL 2014, 13 – 21 SEPTEMBEr/LOnDOnDESignFESTivaL.cOM

of the When product designer Chris Holden fnished his studies in the UK’s northeast, he knew there was one place he had to go to in order to co-found his modernist accessories company Ajoto. ‘London,’ he says. ‘We make products all over the UK but you have to have a presence in London. It’s the world’s showroom for design now. And as such there’s no room for mediocrity there. It has that competitive climate.’ Indeed, two years ago a design critic from The New York Times announced that

London had trumped New York as the global creative hub. That critic had a strong case, given London’s acclaimed art and design schools and the ever-rising reputation of its already internationally noted design shows, which range from the 200 events of the London Design Festival to more local fairs such as the recent Clerkenwell Design Week. The city’s geographic position mid-way between the US and Asia appeals to big business in general and also means that design mavens from across the globe beat a path there. Even its history counts.

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Opposite: Double Space for BMW by Edward Barber and Jay Osgerby for London Design Festival 2014

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PHOTO: (TOP lefT) © AJOTO lTD, (TOP rigHT) BrigiTTe lACOmB, (BOTTOm rigHT) lOnDOn Design fesTivAl 2014, 13 – 21 sePTemBer/lOnDOnDesignfesTivAl.COm

for example, were both self-taught. ‘Often it’s better when you have less knowledge, when you’re under-informed. Then you don’t try to work as the experts do, or do whatever has already been done. You can come at it with childlike enthusiasm,’ explains Dixon, whose latest work includes a clothing line for Adidas. ‘I’m not very good at doing what I’m supposed to do,’ says Arad, ‘and I get away with it – sometimes.’ He cites one commission to design a chair using invisible glue to bond

‘As a visitor to London you can’t not see its diversity of design, in the products on its shelves, in its interior design, in its architecture which runs from Georgian via art deco to modernism,’ says Holden. ‘Florence is beautiful but it’s nonstop Renaissance.’ Recent history has had a big impact, too. London has fostered infuential homegrown design talents, and, in addition to its many noted fashion designers are fgures such as Terence Conran, who revolutionised interior design and retail through the 1960s and 70s. Habitat, which he founded, celebrates its 50th anniversary this year, and his latest book, Plain Simple Useful, refects his practical design theories. The 80s and 90s saw the rise of designers Tom Dixon, Ron Arad and Ross Lovegrove, who pioneered new industrial and organic aesthetics, and London, in turn, attracted star names from abroad to base themselves in the city, including Marc Newson and Zaha Hadid. Perhaps a certain quirky contrariness pervades London design as much as it is said to pervade the city’s fashion. Arad and Dixon, Above (clockwise from top): a selection of Ajoto pen designs; architect and designer Zaha Hadid; Tom Dixon Cog candelabra

PHOTO: gRaHamaTkinSHugHeS.cOm

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together layers of Corian. He decided to colour the glue so it showed up like seams of coal through rock. The result is, of course, a much more interesting chair. For another commission he designed a bicycle whose wheels had no tyres but were made out of multiple loops of sprung steel. When it was cited as more an art piece than a functional means of transport he made a video of it being ridden through London. More recently still, designers such as Thomas Heatherwick and Barber Osgerby have risen to prominence. Yoo, the company founded by John Hitchcox of open-plan living, Manhattan Loft Company fame, has worked with young talents Russell Sage and Bethan Above (clockwise from lef): Yoo Home lifestyle collection; Rolf Sachs furniture design; designer Rolf Sachs; Lee Broom Decanterlights

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Gray to launch Yoo Home this summer. It will be Harrods’ biggest single brand shop-in-shop. ‘People coming to London regularly will have noticed how much it has changed over the last decade – it has evolved,’ says interior products designer Lee Broom, who launched his own business six years ago. ‘Having a mayor has really helped drive forward design fairs and new architecture, as controversial as that can be. And the recession has encouraged pop-up stores and satellite shows that have proved important showcases for new design talent.’ According to the designer and artist Rolf Sachs, who relocated to London 20 years ago this year, the design culture in the city has

PHOTO: kaRL gROSS

PHOTO: © BYROn SLaTeR PHOTOgRaPHY

‘Pop-up stores and satellite shows have proved important showcases for new talent’ – Lee Broom, designer

had an all-pervading infuence. ‘You can see the infuence spreading in line with London’s importance in contemporary art now, too,’ he says. ‘It means the awareness of a need for good design is much greater now – not just in what’s for sale, but in bars, restaurants and hotels. There’s this growing competition in design all around the capital. And those who look for it can be endlessly fascinated.’ ajoto.com, conran.com, tomdixon.net, ronarad.co.uk, rosslovegrove.com, marc-newson.com, zaha-hadid.com, heatherwick.com, barberosgerby.com, yoo.com, homebyyoo.com, leebroom.com, rolfsachs.com

Anya Hindmarch, one of Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite accessories designers, produces bags that are beautifully crafted and often devised with great wit. She talks to Frances Wasem about the evolution of her brand

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There are few fashion titans who can command a global business empire at the same time as making quips and ofering tips with the warmth of a friend. But accessories designer Anya Hindmarch is one of a kind. She combines various quintessentially British characteristics: she’s understated (‘I prefer my clothes not to shout,’ she says); she has a self-deprecating manner; and she is endowed with a very lively, creative spark. She also has a fervent passion for design; most specifcally, she cares deeply about the craftsmanship that goes into her accessories. ‘If you fnd the perfect craftsman, a bag will sing,’ says Hindmarch, who has been in the fashion industry for 26 years now.

It’s an ideology that makes her bags highly covetable – this in an industry where bags jostle for shelf space and where for a long time the ‘It’ bag, with strident logos, ruled. ‘I’m not obsessed by designer names,’ says Hindmarch, who designs her bags at her brick-walled studio in the heart of London’s Bermondsey. ‘I am, though, obsessed by craftsmanship.’ That obsession led Hindmarch to Italy, where most of her bags are now made. Her attention to detail is legendary. The bespoke bags take her craftsmen a day to produce. She has pockets for mobiles and pens. She uses butter-soft leather, shagreen inlays and even costume jewels as part of her designs. ‘I love working with old-

Above (from lef): Swan and Vesta Maxi Featherweight Ebury bag; Cornfakes Maxi Featherweight Ebury bag, both Anya Hindmarch autumn/winter 2014/15

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(flled with headache pills, water, candy and Band-Aids) that are sent to fashion editors before fashion weeks start; and the launch of a bespoke service in 2009. Of the latter, Hindmarch remarks that ‘people have become disconnected from how things are made, and actually that’s the interesting part. Real luxury is about understanding how something is made specifcally to your requirements.’

PHOTO: KPA/ZumA/REX

fashioned techniques, but interpreting them in a modern way,’ she says. Hindmarch was brought up in Essex, to the north-east of London. Her love afair with accessories started young, when, aged 16, she was given her mother’s cast-of Gucci bag. The bag (along with her mother’s wardrobe) has been a major design infuence. ‘I think design is subliminal. I remember my mother in the 70s. She was a fashion individual. I vividly remember the moment when she gave me that old Gucci handbag. I remember the excitement, and how a bag can make you feel.’ Hindmarch launched her business shortly after that, at the tender age of 19. She started by placing an advert in Harpers & Queen (now Harper’s Bazaar), then ploughed the £7,000 sales straight back into the business, and Anya Hindmarch the label came into being. In 1993 Hindmarch opened her frst store in Chelsea. Over the years she has manoeuvred some clever marketing coups that have increased the label’s global audience. These include the famous 2007 ‘I’m not a plastic bag’ ethical slogan that changed the way we shop in supermarkets; the witty Fashion Week Survival Kit bags

Above (from top): designer Anya Hindmarch; Anya Hindmarch I’m Not A Plastic Bag shopping bags

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Today Anya Hindmarch is a modern, global luxury brand, albeit with a cottageindustry spirit â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Hindmarchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s team has been with her for years and is deeply loyal. Her most famous clients include the Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Moss, Angelina Jolie, Cara Delevingne and Caroline Issa. She works alongside her husband James Seymour, who is fnance director of the company, which has close to 60 shops worldwide; last August Hindmarch opened a fagship store in Manhattan. Clearly, she is a much-respected businesswoman: in 2001 she was declared accessory designer of the year at the British Fashion Council awards; she received an MBE in 2009; and in 2012 Veuve Clicquot named her businesswoman of the year. She is a trustee of the Design Museum and the Royal Academy. She is also a UK trade ambassador, appointed by Prime Minister David Cameron. Business accolades aside, a key part of her brand is her sense of humour. Her frst catwalk show, in 2012, featured the fabulous Quality Street collection with bags designed to look like old-fashioned British Quality Street sweets and chocolates. The autumn/winter 2014/15 Above (from top): Anya Hindmarch boutique, Sloane Street; Anya Hindmarch Coco Pops Imperial clutch, autumn/winter 2014/15

PHOTO: KevIn TACHmAn

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Her many business accolades aside, a key part of Anya Hindmarch’s brand is her sense of humour

collection combines the everyday with a sense of high luxury and includes a Kellogg’s Coco Pops clutch, a chain bag shaped like a crisp packet and a Swan Vestas matchbox bag. Part of the success of Hindmarch’s socalled cottage-industry success has to be its London base. What does she think makes London so special? ‘It’s an incredibly exciting hub of creativity, that translates globally,’ explains Hindmarch. ‘London designers take risks. And actually it’s this risk-taking and sense of adventure that probably contributes to success. So many of our talented designers either set up their own label very young or work for some of the most prestigious houses globally – so our exports are something we are incredibly proud of.’ And London is proud of her too, for putting the city’s accessories scene frmly on the map with bags that are admired across the globe. As I leave Hindmarch’s house, a slogan emblazoned on the wall catches my eye: ‘everybody needs a handbag’. Perhaps that should read ‘everybody needs an Anya Hindmarch handbag’ anyahindmarch.com

Above (from lef): Caroline Issa carries an Anya Hindmarch Crisp Packet clutch; the Crisp Packet clutch, autumn/winter 2014/15

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Table Talk London’s restaurant scene ofers a wealth of variety, from gourmet international cuisine to refned restaurants centred on high-quality British produce. Verity Hogan dines at a selection of the capital’s best

London’s restaurant scene has undergone a culinary revolution in recent years. The capital’s restaurants once had a reputation for being bland and boring but now London’s hottest eateries are refned and edgy, on a par with the city’s thriving art and fashion scenes. Traditional British cuisine is defned by simple ingredients and favours, with lamb, beef, pork, chicken or fsh used as the basis for a meal, accompanied by a potato-based side dish and vegetables. However, London’s multicultural diversity has also made an impact on the city’s restaurants with international favours from India, Asia and continental Europe all afecting the cuisine on ofer. Today, London’s fnest restaurants combine imagination, modesty and integrity within their sleek dining rooms. Imaginative chefs are fnding ever more interesting ways to attract an increasingly sophisticated and knowledgeable customer base, while the city’s contemporary cuisine is gaining international acclaim. globalblue.com

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PHOTO: WILL PRYCE

PAv I L I O N Chef Adam Simmonds is known for presenting deceptively simple dishes with intense favours and his kitchen at Pavilion does not disappoint. The menu makes use of seasonal British produce while the in-house delicatessen ofers a range of cheese, charcuterie and patisserie options to eat in or take away. Typical dishes might include roast lamb cutlets with smoked aubergine purĂŠe, poached halibut in a trufe beurre blanc, and whole lobster salad with octopus, watermelon and fennel. Pavilion, 96 Kensington High Street, London W8 4SG, +44 (0)20 7221 2000, kensingtonpavilion.com

PHOTO: jOHn carey 2014

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cuisine and Westcott’s mentors Tom Aikens and Jason Atherton. Menu highlights include pigeon smoked in pine with salt-baked celeriac, lovage and hazelnut and lamb served with smoked beetroot, turnip, horseradish and sorrel. Typing Room, Town hall hotel, patriot square, London e2 9NF, +44 (0)20 7871 0461, typingroom.com

T y pi NG rooM east London’s latest hotspot, Typing room showcases chef Lee Westcott’s creative modern european cuisine in an appropriately stylish space. The well-edited menu ofers just fve snacks, starters and mains each evening and makes the most of natural favours while incorporating infuences from New Nordic

PHOTO: DaVID LOFTUS

F ischer’s

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classic Viennese café Fischer’s brings Austria’s distinctive cuisine to the heart of west London. The restaurant ofers an all-day menu of classic cuisine, including cured fsh, salads, schnitzels, sausages and brötchen. Traditional schnitzels, braised beef tafelspitz and lamb goulash are accompanied by a selection of wines from Austria, Germany and hungary. The dining room emanates heritage appeal despite its recent opening; tiled fooring, wooden furnishings and artistically distressed handpainted wallpaper add character to the space. Fischer’s, 50 Marylebone high street, London W1U 5hN, +44 (0)20 7466 5501, fschers.co.uk

MAPPINANDWEBB.COM REGENT STREET | OLD BOND STREET | FENCHURCH STREET

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QuagL i no’S

Cin na mon Soho

Quaglino’s, one of London’s most renowned restaurants, has re-opened with a new menu and beautifully restored art deco interior. a host of original features, including its sweeping staircase, have been preserved, while a new cocktail bar and stage to host live performances add a modern edge. new executive chef mickael Weiss has devised a contemporary European menu; expect classic dishes infused with exotic favours and spices. Typical options include lamb with spiced spinach, and cod with a vegetable and safron cassoulet. Quaglino’s, 16 Bury Street, London SW1Y 6aJ, +44 (0)20 7930 6767, quaglinos-restaurant.co.uk

The younger, cheekier sibling of the Cinnamon group, Cinnamon Soho presents a menu of modern indian cuisine that nods to British traditions. Executive chef Vivek Singh balances favours perfectly in dishes such as seared sea bass with an aubergine and potato crush, smoked saddle of lamb with spiced onion gravy, and ox cheek vindaloo. The restaurant’s most famous dishes are also some of its most unusual; options include Bangla Scotch eggs and pies flled with exotic Keralan seafood or rogan josh. Cinnamon Soho, 5 Kingly Street, London W1B 5PF, +44 (0)20 7437 1664, cinnamonsoho.com

marani’s dining room is designed to emulate a typical drawing room in georgia, with patterned wallpaper, wooden furnishings and rich ornamentation. The food is based on traditional georgian cuisine and features an array of specialities such as delicious cheeseflled khachapuri bread and pkhali: leeks, aubergine and spinach poached with walnuts and pomegranate seeds. Designed for sharing, the hearty home-cooked dishes at marani are sure to leave diners feeling fully satisfed. Marani, 54 Curzon Street, London W1J 8Pg, +44 (0)20 7495 1260, maranilondon.co.uk globalblue.com

PHOTO: MARK CARR PHOTOGRAPHY

marani

porsche design

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stay in style

PHOTO: TOmmy PicOne

The world’s fnest hotels have locations in the most sought-after city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa facilities ofering state-of-theart treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

Grand Hotel tremezzo An authentic art nouveau palace on the shores of Lake Como, the elegant Grand Hotel Tremezzo refects the period throughout its interior décor, while each of its 83 bedrooms takes design inspiration from the hotel’s exquisitely manicured gardens. The lush parkland surrounding the property ofers a globalblue.com

riot of colour to complement the lake views, and there are three swimming pools and an outdoor tennis court for guests to enjoy. A team of dedicated staf is on hand to ensure a smooth stay; be sure to try some local cuisine at the hotel’s gourmet restaurant before relaxing in the well-appointed spa. Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Via Regina 8, 22019 Tremezzo, +39 034 442491, grandhoteltremezzo.com

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Boscolo Venezia Housed within a 17th-century palazzo, the Boscolo Venezia is the perfect place to experience the enchanting atmosphere of Venice. The hotel ofers 72 rooms, while a unique secret garden ofers views across the lagoon. The fve-star hotel combines contemporary comforts with vintage opulence;

the dĂŠcor features precious marble, ornate frescoes and majestic chandeliers. Its location in Cannaregio puts it close to the centre of Venice, but far enough away to give visitors a taste of real life in this romantic city. Boscolo Venezia, Fondamenta Madonna Dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Orto, Cannaregio 3500, 30121 Venice, +39 041 220 8111, venezia.boscolohotels.com

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BuddHa-Bar Hotel Located in the heart of Prague, the BuddhaBar Hotel brings oriental style and a touch of Eastern mysticism to the Czech capital. Decorated in shades of red and gold, each room features a black jacaranda bed and a headboard emblazoned with a dragon design, while some suites also have their own private globalblue.com

Japanese garden. Be sure to visit one of the hotel’s restaurants during your stay; opt for the Siddharta Café to sample a menu based on the fve Chinese elements, or admire the giant Buddha statue which overlooks diners at the pan-Asian Buddha-Bar Restaurant. Buddha-Bar Hotel, Jakubská 8, 110 00 Prague, +420 221 776300, buddhabarhotelprague.com

PHOTO: Elan FlEisHEr/ElanHOTElPix.cOm

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Fleming’s Hotel municH-city Located in Munich city centre, Fleming’s Hotel combines home comforts with an innovative design that is sure to appeal. Each of its bedrooms boasts a striking décor with strict lines and a bright colour scheme, while the bathrooms are luxuriously appointed in granite, parquet and glass. Business guests will also

appreciate the sound-insulated windows, free WLAN connection and oversized desks, while the Finnish sauna and aroma steam bath are ideal for those hoping to relax. Be sure to dine at the hotel’s brasserie, which ofers a menu that encompasses everything from rustic pasta dishes to French haute cuisine. Fleming’s Hotel Munich-City, Bayerstrasse 47, 80335 Munich, +49 (0)89 444 4660, femings-hotels.com

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Guide

A Glimpse of london St Paul’s Cathedral is one of the city’s most enduring landmarks. Since it was rebuilt in 1675, the building has remained unchanged as London has evolved around it. globalblue.com

PHOTO: XXXXXXX PHOTO: visiTlOndOnimages/briTainOnview/julieT w

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to london with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the fnest afternoon tea spots to the best east london boutiques. start with sHop’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. for further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.

Photographed in La Roca Village. A member of the Chic Outlet Shopping ® Collection of Villages.

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Featured In This issue

London Underground Station

G U I D E | 83

BL OO M

page

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TEMPLE

LEICESTER SQUARE R ST

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T E HA L L WHI

ST. JAMES PARK P.97

CHARING CROSS

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page

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HYDE PARK CORNER

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LD’

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TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD

page

P.97

OBO HE

AND

PL. NE

BOND STREET

RTL

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GOODGE STREET

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BRITISH MUSEUM

WATERLOO

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LONDON EYE

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BIG BEN

LAMBETH NORTH OR I

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84 | G U I D E

Mount Street, Davies Street & Bruton Street ● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

ISO

BOU R

DUNHILL BOURDON ● HOUSE

● LANVIN

& ND ● LLA HO LLAND HO I● ON BRI ● ZO KEN LL A STE Y ● TNE T ● CAR AN MC MAR ● L W E C A SABE TTH N ● L EI I A M O MS LIA ● WIL LEY PER P S ● TEM HILLI ON P EV ALD IAN RG ● D RON NBE LA ● STE IE FU R MARG RIS ● IN HAR ART LLER MI

ROKSANDA ●

DAVIES STREET

P.40

● LOEWE

● CAROLINA HERRERA

● GOYARD

● MACKINTOSH ● CÉLINE

● PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND ● STEPHEN WEBSTER

M O U N T S T R EET

NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD ●

C A R L O S P L ACE

BALENCIAGA ● CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ● PAULE KA ●

MARC JACOBS ●

Scot’s

MOUNT ROW ● ROLAND MOURET ● JESSICA MCCORMACK SOLANGE ● AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE ● JENNY PACKHAM

GROS V EN OR HILL

N U TO

STR

EET

Berkeley Square

South Molton Street, Davies Street & Brook Street

GEntlEmEn’s tonIc

NE W BOND S

I Selfridges P.45 US OT EN Z A OC L R BOND STREET EG O R S F IER LO

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catering to the modern man, Gentlemen’s tonic ofers a welcoming environment designed for relaxation. the mayfair salon ofers a traditional barbershop as well as an extensive treatment menu. Its décor is appropriately masculine with accents of wood, leather and marble complemented by an array of hi-tech gadgets. Book the salon’s new tibetan massage; the treatment uses Dead sea salts and Himalayan pebbles to rhythmically massage away aches and pains and leave soft, sleek skin behind. Gentlemen’s Tonic, 31A Bruton Place, london W1J 6nn, +44 (0)20 7297 4343, gentlemenstonic.com

O M T H N E P CO OX FO R D S T RE ● A U R O WU D I A R C . ET ● B L A M I N ● PINKO ● C IAN S ● G AIL ICA L E BOSIDENG ● ● N RT H R ● A US O A P.48 BROWNS ● ● L INK TIE D D WHISTLES ● ● P ER AR ● B ÉR BS PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND ● B ● G NK BUTLER & WILSON ● ● H O .W 3C E ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● ● N PA S I N I O ● S EIS IM R R CLAUDIE PIERLOT ● ER ● R AT C A K E DUNE ● ● C AS BA OM EN ● M ED ICE W K ILL F ● O M T VERTICE UOMO ● ● OF ELL EN AR JONES ● ● Y AR WE U ● K LO E N T E A MONICA VINADER ● ● S A J OO BA E ES AFTERSHOCK ● ● M AS IT IN PL R ● S ET O L O GE POSTE ● ● P U C KO E I ● R HE T G ET T COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● ● T UR E LA MODA IN PELLE ● Y ● K T I N CO ER ● AR HO AUBADE ● LL T C ● K WE OF N C JE S DO SANDRO ● ● INK N SPENCE R ANNOUSHKA ● L LO ● HART ● ACCESSORIZE ●

TO OL

AV ER Y

BROOKS MEWS

● SONIA RYKIEL ● POMELLATO

BRO OK ST REE T

Claridge’s

● PAUL SMITH

DAVIES STR EET

VERA WANG AT BROWNS ●

PHOTO: AmAyA ROmAN

GROSVEN OR STREET

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Restaurant

Hotel

Department Store

Featured In This issue

London Underground Station

G U I D E | 85

New Bond Street OX FO R D ST RE

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BON

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DAVIES STREET

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NEW

BON

D ST

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D OV

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Place Of Interest

ROCHESTER B I G

T A L L

G U I D E | 87

Conduit Street & Old Bond Street T● G OA E R AS V DID KE OLI ● -3 A IYA EY ● ● Y SEY M EEN SW K E TCH ● ● IS S OTO H N AM O J ● AM OS JI Y VAT YO H VA R AND BIE VIL P.39 OM NE A R H IEN ●C UE V IV M A N ● AN N A L IQ K AR SHESO OD ●L OOD RNO ● NA R O ST W DON ETE L HE ST W Y● ● E WE E W KLE ANI NNE ●D HOC LLER ● IV I E E UTI HI ● ●V &P E BY ERL FA R R IG ROB ●B OLE ARD N IC ●W ● YS BAR HEB ● OLO Y SOT RDS ●P A ERR N● DW URB ER E S S IA ●B P E T TAT E O H I N O ●& LL SC MO USSE EY ● R ML BRO

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ST R EE T

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P.44 G IE V ES &

P.96

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2. Aqua Shard Serving afternoon tea alongside panoramic city views, Aqua Shard’s offering is one of London’s most spectacular. Set on the 31st foor, the restaurant serves tea in its stunning triple-height atrium and offers a menu flled with distinctive favour combinations. Try a chicken sandwich perfumed with lavender mayonnaise before pairing orange blossom scones with kumquat and cinnamon jam. Aqua Shard, Level 31, The Shard, St. Thomas Street, London SE1 9RY, +44 (0)20 3011 1256, aquashard.co.uk

KES

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1. Oscar Wilde tea at Café Royal Served in the sumptuous Louis XVI drawing room that was once frequented almost daily by Oscar Wilde, the Café Royal’s afternoon tea takes inspiration from one of his most famous works, the Importance of Being Earnest. The menu is as witty as it is delicious; choose an indulgent Lady Bracknell éclair or a more experimental Cherry Lane Absinthe Green Fairy pastry. Hotel Café Royal, 68 Regent Street, London W1B 4DY, +44 (0)20 7406 3310, hotelcaferoyal.com for map go to page 90

S AV

OLD

ET 7 TRE R D S S ● P.9 FFO N CLI ON & SO ORT

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HU ●C

M A DD OX

CLARKS ●

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AG L IN B U R RE FERR O VAT L A ●S PH OSE ●J T IL A A R CHA ● ● r MA R e E AX M A Dov eet CAMP EX ● ● NET DA ROL St r r ke t P R A EG A V E ● ● S I Z TT A AKR V ● T I Ma O A R B K A ● L ● VIE T NM NC A N IE G I A L L AT I L E S A I N ● ● D NTBLA T CE O REN ITH BUC Burlington ● M EG A L A UA U L S M M I Arcade ● P TREET ●O IA N ● DS DA M CCI N P.44 FO R U ● F G S O A ST AK HER ● ANA ● D PERL A VA C N T I N ABB QUEEN A S TA C ● L LCE & G U● CO N V E R T R M O E D D ● I ● XAN ALD RE ALE RIN ● ● A U LT R RIN TIE O D ’S - L E C O B MA ●T CAR B ER O● WE A EG & J ETR AL ● IN APP R OY Y ● ●M THE ADEM ERS E C B A DE

TIFFAN Y & CO. ● PAUL SMITH ● N E L ● CHA NY ● DK

BON

D ST

R EE

8 P.11

D OV

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● JIMMY CHOO

IA TO R A M VIC ECK H ●B

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3. Charlie and the Chocolate Factory at One Aldwych Inspired by Roald Dahl’s novel, the Charlie and the Chocolate Factory tea offers an array of imaginative sweet treats. Options range from a golden chocolate egg flled with vanilla cheesecake and mandarin to homemade candyfoss. Be sure to try Charlie’s cocktail with your pastries; the drink features Dalmore whisky with Grand Marnier Cherry, chocolate bitters and Champagne. One Aldwych, 1 Aldwych, London WC2B 4BZ, +44 (0)20 7300 1070, onealdwych.com

TRE

PIC

CAD

The Wolseley

I L LY

ARL ING TO N

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TREE

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Le Caprice

JER M

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Department Store

Shopping Centre/Mall

Restaurant

88 | G U I D E

Regent Street Must-visit MuseuMs GREAT CAS TLE STREET

LEVI’S ●

● NIKETOWN

H&M ●

● TOPSHOP / TOPMAN

OXFORD CIRCUS BENETTON ●

KAREN MILLEN ● TED BAKER ● APPLE STORE ● LACOSTE ●

OX FO RD ST

● TEZENIS

R EE T

● OMEGA

REGENT STR EE T

FRENCH CONNECTION ●

1. Keats House The former home of romantic poet John Keats and the place where he met the love of his life Fanny Brawne, this historic Hampstead house provides a unique insight into the artist’s life and work. Stroll the grounds where the couple’s love affair blossomed and where Keats composed Ode to a Nightingale; read personal letters in his study; and admire an array of other artefacts including Fanny Brawne’s diamond engagement ring. Keats House, 10 Keats Grove, London NW3 2RR, +44 (0)20 7332 3868, cityoflondon.gov.uk

LONGCHAMP ●

● ACCESSORIZE

● ARMANI EXCHANGE ● ALL SAINTS ● H&M

ANA ● BAN

R EP U B

FURLA ● HOBBS ● BARKER ● TUMI ● CAMPER ● KIPLING ● CLARKS ●

LI C

H OROUG MARLB Liberty

G R E AT

STR EE

● COS

R EG E

● HOUSE OF HANOVER

MOLTON BROWN ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● MICHAEL KORS ●

● & OTHER STORIES

● DESIGUAL

ERT

● JAEGER ● KURT GEIGER

NAB Y ST

REET

● HAMLEYS

● JUICY COUTURE

REE

GANT ●

CAR

NT ST

CHURCH’S ● THE PEN SHOP ●

● GAP

C PLA

● HUGO BOSS ● ESPRIT

Cinnamon Soho

● LEVI’S

2. Horniman Museum and Gardens The Horniman Museum in south-east London would be even more popular if its location was more central. Its vast collection is well worth the journey across the city; more than 350,000 items related to anthropology, natural history and music are on show, while the museum’s acres of manicured gardens are equally noteworthy. Horniman Museum and Gardens, 100 London Road, London SE23 3PQ, +44 (0)20 8699 1872, horniman.ac.uk 3. Churchill War Rooms Follow in Winston Churchill’s footsteps by visiting his war rooms, consisting of the Cabinet War rooms, Churchill’s bunker and a museum dedicated to the wartime leader. History comes to life thanks to the museum’s collection of oral histories, flmed interviews and personal objects while fxed attractions include the transatlantic telephone room and the Map Room, preserved exactly as it was when the lights were switched off there on 16 August 1945. Churchill War Rooms, Clive Steps, King Charles Street, London SW1A 2AQ, +44 (0)20 7930 6961, iwm.org.uk 2

● REISS

R EGE

LE R

L’OCCITANE ●

WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND ●

. K ST

● PIQUADRO ● BROOKS BROTHERS

R EE T

P.39

BEA

NT ST

CRABTREE & EVELYN ●

OXFORDS ●

GODIVA ● S AV

ILE R

PHOTO: HORNImaN mUSeUm aND GaRDeNS

S AV I

● WOLFORD ● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● GUESS ● ANTHROPOLOGIE ● MASSIMO DUTTI

● TIMBERLAND ● TOMMY HILFIGER

SWAROVSKI ●

● MAPPIN & WEBB

ZARA HOME ● PENHALIGON’S ●

TOYWATCH ● BURBERRY ●

RUSSELL & ● BROMLEY ● T.M. LEWIN ● FOLLI FOLLIE ● THE BODY SHOP ● ZARA ● MANGO

VIGO STR EE T

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Restaurant

Featured In This Issue

Department Store

London Underground Station

90 | G U I D E

Regent Street, Piccadilly & Jermyn Street VIGO STR EE T

● AUSTIN REED ● WOLFORD ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT ● MOSS CLARKS ● ● UNIQLO ● LUSH LONDON TEXTILE CO ● ● COACH REISS ●

SUPERDRY ●

SELECTED STORES IN PRINCESS ARCADE: THE LEFT SHOE COMPANY

STR E

Fo r t n

P.88 ● NESPRESSO

R EGE

UGG ● AUSTRALIA

NT STREET

YA L

PICCADILLY CIRCUS Piccadilly Circus ● LILLYWHITES

D IL LY

ALFR

P.42

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YN S

TR EE

OSPR

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R R EG

L●

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N H IL

BOGG

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● LOTUS

P IC C A

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DUK

R AY HN B DSON ● JO & HU R V IE ● HA T. EEN D GR D BOND S WA R ● ED OR OF OL Y YL ● TA IT C H & K E D o ’s S T R E E T ● H IL n li B U RY Quag R ASSE LL & NES RNBU ● T U C K E T T & JO O P ● CR CHAM ’S ● DU IC K E R ● T R A W IL L IS M ● E M ID O F F R EE T V ’S S T ● DA MES

YN ST

’S W L E Y LON DON S ● RO METT ● EM S NE ● JO OF T IG E R E D E N ’S ● SW U RCH USE ● CH O GLE H ● EA IN . LEW ● T.M NES ● R STO WAT E S K ● DA T IS ● W H IT CURT S TYR ES & ARLE H AW ● CH R EE T RK ST O F YO DUK E DSON & HU EY L R V IE ROM ● HA L&B SSEL DON ● RU DRO F LON IE L D F KS O ● LLA ● L IN O N & W H IT S XT JO N E ● PA TT & RLES OCKE ● CR K CHA D E R IC ● RO O R IS ● FL BB H N LO ● JO T Y● CK E T & KE ● ● HA IT C H EN H IL D K SON BARK E ● ● P IN ER & AK FOST IS T D SPE R ● WS H AN & CU H C Z EC WES N D IS ● HA C AV E VERE S’ S JA M E ● DE T ST

rcade

Maso

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um &

P r in c OD ● GWO & L IN ● NEW OOK URBR ● FAV O TO N S ● W IL E● TUMI R O M SL AD N● E STO JM W ● C O ’S FR AN T TA ● BERE

JER M

V IL LE

● MR HARE

B CH ARB INA OU R● S PA RIS HOP ● MI KI ● WH IT T AR D● C MAR AMPO Z IO ● E XC OF L ELLENC OND O N ●E H AW C U R TE S & T H E S IS ● T IN G ●

S AC K

HOLLISTER ● Café HUNTER ● Royal

P.96

K IN G

ST R E

● BERRY BROS. & RUDD

TR EE

E STR

S T JA

St James’s Square

● JAMES LOCK & CO

CH A R

L E S II

STR E

With an illustrious heritage and acclaimed reputation as one of london’s fnest shirtmakers, Turnbull & Asser is a bastion of tradition. since 1885, the company has employed skilled craftspeople to create shirts with a perfect ft, timeless sense of style and steadfast durability. Every shirt is made in England using the fnest fabrics and traditional techniques. Turnbull & Asser shirts have been worn by some of the world’s most famous men, including the Prince of Wales and James bond, so visitors to its Jermyn street store are in good company.

PHOTO: © ANDREW BARNHAM

TUrnbUll & AssEr

Turnbull & Asser, 71-72 Jermyn street, london sW1Y 6PF, +44 (0)20 7808 3000, turnbullandasser.co.uk

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Café

Restaurant

Featured In This Issue

Shopping Centre

G U I D E | 91

Brompton Road

RO LE

N RO AD

●

KENSINGTON ROA D BU

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

●

ER RY

RO ON

●

RO AD

SELECTED STORES IN HARRODS:

LLADRO

RE ST

S IL

S ROAD

O I M O AN IU M IN AR LL S O PE NE RI

LT O

●

Y E RR SP BE & UL KS M AR M ●

●

HAN

●

N HI

PONT S ● SKANDIUM

P.92

Place Of Interest

London Underground Station

T R EE T

C R ESCENT

N RO AD

O PAV IL LI

●

O ●

R BE AL & M A EU RI S O MU

●

L TA

ER LL PE & Y N GB O RI RS ● DE N SA RT ’ S PE CH UT RU UR ● CH P OR A S H ● GA ND LAS G ● PA O UN O SS ● S NK RE PI SP S IS RE

HA N

●

BA SIL ST RE ET

●

O OG

D OA

●

TE TA

CA E AC PL AL EV H C

M OP AZ

REET

PY ● RA S HE TE AT I A M C O SO AR AS

ACE

ELIER ST

L OT P CEL

RO CO

TI NA

RE ET

MONTP

N S ST EL IE R P

●

● N ● BA M IL ● L . K L LY LE ● EC . B N E C G N ● AN O NE A ● C T T C T BA E SL SS ● ER OR ● BA IZ ● WA R K E ● TO T E ● TH M CH R ● M E MY ES ● K U A S KO H I O F ● T E TC SI M O P L F SW ● RU D B HIN O D LES IGE IT R ZE ZA SS AK S U RL R A EL ER KY T T I L AN & D B KNIGHTSBRIDGE R O M LE Y

LAN

R PL

ST ER LI M ON TP

●

WAL K

●

R ST R EE

PE LI ER

T R E VO

MONT

●

T RE VO

TREVOR PL

VENTURE ● PHOTOGRAPHY

T RE E L ST HAE RAP

HARVEY NICHOLS ●

P.40

KE NS IN G TO

92 | G U I D E

Skandium Scandinavian design is internationally acclaimed and at the Brompton Road branch of Skandium the region’s fnest pieces are placed centre stage. The store stocks an extensive range but is surprisingly easy to navigate with expert members of staf on hand to lend helpful advice. Skandium is the only place in London where you’ll fnd items by marimekko, iittala, asplund and Royal Copenhagen in a range that includes furniture, lighting and kitchenware. Skandium, 245-249 Brompton Road, London SW3 2EP, +44 (0)20 7584 2066, skandium.com * for map go to page 91

Sloane Street North

Sloane Street South CADO GAN GAT E

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

CADOGAN PLACE

Harvey Nichols BOODLES ● KID SPACE ●

● PINK ELL IS STREET

● GARRARD C A D O G A N G A R DEN

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

● ALBERTA FERRETTI ● TOM FORD ● ERMANNO SCERVINO ● MONCLER ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI

BILLIONAIRE ● HOGAN ● GRAFF ●

● ESCADA ● MISSONI

ANNE FONTAINE ●

● LOUIS VUITTON

● GINA

GUCCI ● ROBERTO CAVALLI ●

● MIU MIU

MARNI ●

● VERSACE

GIANFRANCO FERRÉ ●

● DRJIE ● LA PERLA ● COUTTS & CO BANK

CADOGA N PLACE

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Restaurant

LARA B OHNIC PICKETT N.PEAL CASSANDRA GOAD

Colbe rt

PETER JONES ●

Department Store

Sloane Square ROYAL COURT THEATRE

SLOANE SQUARE S LOA N E G A R D E N S

● CHANEL

● MAJE ● ● ● ●

● HUGO BOSS

P.38

● EMILIO PUCCI

SLOA NE TERRACE

● PICKETT

LOW ER SLOANE STREET

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ●

● SAINT LAURENT

WILBR AHA M P L .

● CHLOÉ ● MONTBLANC ● JO MALONE

LINKS OF LONDON ●

● DODO ● BOGGI ● HOSS INTROPIA

LORO PIANA ●

● VALENTINO

AMOUAGE ●

PRADA ●

● DOLCE & GABBANA

L O W N D E S S T.

● BULGARI

SLOANE STREET

● HERMÈS

JIMMY CHOO ●

PAULE KA BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ANYA HINDMARCH BROWNS

SYM ONS ST REET

● KABIRI BIMBA & RD ● LOLA G’ S KIN VIVIENNE ● WESTWOOD

● FENDI

DIOR ●

GIORGIO ARMANI ●

● ROGER VIVIER

CARTIER ● TIFFANY ●

● T.M. LEWIN ● RIGBY & PELLER ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS A● ● WOLFORD ● ELLIOT RHODES HK ● S US ● MASSIMO DUTTI NO TER A N ROT L ES ● ● BCBGMAXAZRIA T P OO ● CATH KIDSTON I● EK ● ERIC BOMBARD ● WHISTLES. ● COS

● BERLUTI

JOSEPH ●

TOD’S ●

Lowndes Square

HARRIET ST.

BONPOINT ●

BOTTEGA VENETA ●

LES PETITES ● MARIE CHANTAL ● PAUL & JOE ● FRANK SMYTHSON ● HACKETT ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●

KIK

JITROIS ● CESARE PACIOTTI ●

● SERGIO ROSSI

SLOANE STREET

SHANGHAI TANG ● DOLCE & GABANA ●

SLOANE STREET

MCM ● H&M ●

● ● ● ●

London Underground Station

G u i d E | 93

BeSt eASt London BoutiqueS 1. Aimé Providing a pocket of Parisian style in the heart of east London, Aimé stocks a varied selection of French labels including Isabel Marant, APC, Repetto and Soeur. While the store’s range has expanded in recent years to include other European brands, Aimé’s selection still epitomises French chic. Aimé, 17 Redchurch Street, London E2 7DJ, +44 (0)20 7739 2158, aimelondon.com

3. Hostem Menswear boutique Hostem’s range runs the gamut from luxe streetwear labels to niche avant-garde fashion brands. Its interior is suitably stylish; restored foorboards, exposed bulbs and hessian wall panels provide the backdrop to pieces by Margaret Howell, Rick Owens and Yohji Yamamoto. Hostem, 41-43 Redchurch Street, London E2 7DJ, +44 (0)20 7739 9733, hostem.co.uk 3

2. Start One of the frst boutiques to bring designer fashion to Shoreditch, Start offers an eclectic range of international and local labels. Expect to fnd pieces by Acne, Carven and Rick Owens offered alongside accessories that include Diptyque candles and Laura Lee jewellery. The store’s renowned denim-ftting service makes it the ideal place to pick up a new pair of jeans. Start, 42-44 Rivington Street, London EC2A 3QP, +44 (0)20 7729 3334, start-london.com

Redchurch Street C A LV ● START

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Featured In This issue

S C L AT E

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NOBLE LEATHERWARE ●

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● AUBIN & WILLS

Boxpark

Shopping Centre

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THE GALLERY ● STREE T Owl & the Pussycat THOR & WHISTLE ●

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SHOREDITCH HOUSE

TC L A

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Albion

Boundary

SUNSPEL ● AIMÉ ● APC ●

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REDCHURCH

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94 | G U I D E 1. Caramel Caramel’s childrenswear collections are designed to be as beautiful as they are hardwearing. Expect to fnd a range with an overriding vintage aesthetic. Every piece is modern, but original enough to ensure the range stands out. Caramel, 77 Ledbury Road, London W11 2AG, +44 (0)20 7727 0906, caramel-shop.co.uk

TOp sTOREs On LEDBuRy ROaD 1

PHOTO: SIMON J EVANS

2. Wolf & Badger For those seeking the next big thing, Wolf & Badger’s Ledbury Road boutique is sure to provide a wealth of inspiration. The store supports independent designers with its eclectic collection of fashion, jewellery and interior design pieces. The current range includes Serge DeNimes and Jena Theo. Wolf & Badger, 46 Ledbury Road, London W11 2AB, +44 (0)20 7229 5698, wolfandbadger.com 3. Melt The artisanal chocolates on offer at Melt are sure to satisfy anyone with a sweet tooth. The store makes every item by hand on-site, using ingredients sourced from sustainable producers. Options range from sea-salted caramel bonbons to milk chocolate and hazelnut slabs. Melt, 59 Ledbury Road, London W11 2AA, +44 (0)20 7727 5030, meltchocolates.com

Ledbury Road VINE CO L

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● J.W.BEETON

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● MELISSA ODABASH

WEST

● WOLF & BADGER EMMA HOPE ● ● ROBIN MARTIN ANTIQUES MARIE-CHANTAL CHILDREN ● ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE IRIS ● ● REISS JOSEPH ● MELT ● ● BODAS ASHLEY STORES ● ASSYA LONDON ● ● DAVID CLULOW JEEVES ●

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TWENTY8TWELVE ● MATCHES ● DIANE VON FURSTENBERG ● THE VILLAGE BICYCLE ● CARAMEL ● EWS EM LYON CHOY LONDON ● V IL L CO L PETIT BATEAU ●

FARA BABY ● FARA KIDS ●

● PETIT AIME

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Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Restaurant

Featured In This issue

G U I D E | 95

nOTTing HiLL’s BEsT REsTauRanTs 1. Dock Kitchen Stevie Parle’s experimental restaurant Dock Kitchen offers a different menu every week; dishes are determined by available produce and the chefs’ current inspirations. This spontaneous, modern approach contrasts with the restaurant’s historic surroundings; set in a former Victorian wharf building, the space’s original features include brick arches and a beamed ceiling. Dock Kitchen, Portobello Docks, 342-344 Ladbroke Grove, London W10 5BU, +44 (0)20 8962 1610, dockkitchen.co.uk

3. E&O E&O’s carefully selected menu of pan-Asian cuisine ranges from familiar dim sum, sushi and tempura to more complex fare such as a lamb rendang and sweet potato curry, and beef bulgogi balanced with a coriander raita. The dining room is intimate and atmospheric yet contemporary, with dark-slatted wood panels and cosy booths. E&O, 14 Blenheim Crescent, London W11 1NN, +44 (0)20 7229 5454, rickerrestaurants.com/e-and-o 1

PHOTO: JAMESBEDFORD.COM

2. The Ledbury The Ledbury specialises in understated brilliance. Chef Brett Graham oversees a modern French menu while the personable staff and relaxed atmosphere add further appeal. Typical dishes might include fame-grilled mackerel with pickled cucumber, mustard and shiso or breast and conft of pigeon with cherries, red vegetables and leaves. The Ledbury, 127 Ledbury Road, London W11 2AQ, +44 (0)20 7792 9090, theledbury.com

Westbourne Grove & Denbigh Road P IP PA

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NS ITE S TIO OP WH IER ES Y & X RIA NN ● AN AV N M A & VA E N O T O ● EO E S AU R E S C ● LT H E MP H L I R D G ● A L P TO L A N ● RC O M M E T ● HEL D ● OA

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96 | G U I D E

MY CITY: Patrick Grant Patrick Grant won the British Fashion council’s Menswear Designer of the Year award for his revival of British heritage tailoring brand E tautz, which he acquired alongside Savile row tailor norton & Sons in 2005. He has featured in a host of BBc television documentaries and is a regular on the Uk’s bestdressed lists. Originally from Edinburgh, he now lives in London, and he tells SHOP’s Gemma Latham what he loves about the city

PHOTO: DURSTON SAYLOR

etautz.com, nortonandsons.co.uk

‘Every district of London has great local stores; that’s one of the things that make the city so great. the up-and-coming areas have the most exciting and innovative cafés, bars, food markets and stores for everything from clothing to furniture. ‘Berry Brothers & Rudd * p.90 wine merchants is probably the most beautiful shop in the world, it’s like a 17th-century time capsule. try Dalston, clapton or Hackney Wick if you want the edgier side of London. LN-CC is an amazing, curated concept store in Dalston, east London.

Above: Scarfes Bar

‘The Delaunay has a beautiful dining room and does the best breakfast in town, especially if you like sausage and sauerkraut. Cecconi’s * p.87 Venetian restaurant in Mayfair has amazing service and is the best spot for people-watching in the W1 area. ‘the bar at Dukes Hotel in Mayfair serves the very best and strongest martinis in the world. the waiters come to your table with a trolley and make them in front of you. Scarfes Bar at the rosewood Hotel has a wonderful atmosphere and probably the most delicious curry in town. the original

Featured In This Issue

PHOTO: THE TRUSTEES OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM

PHOTO: ED REEvE/REEvE.CO.Uk

G U I D E | 97

Bistrotheque is still the hippest east London dining spot. they do great chicken. Crate Brewery is a microbrewery and pizzeria by the Olympic Park in Hackney Wick. it’s a great spot that only locals really know about. ‘Most afternoons you will fnd me working at Norton & Sons * p.87, the best tailors on Savile row. i love to walk from Savile row past St James’s Palace and across the Mall to St James’s Park * p.83. the eastern view from the bridge in St James’s Park, towards Horse Guards and the Palace of Westminster, is spectacular. the Palace of

Westminster is hard to beat for sheer drama. Perched above the thames, it is a feat of incredible building skill, and the history of its halls are beyond compare. ‘Music, art, theatre, fashion … the depth and breadth of culture in London is endless. it’s hard to choose just one museum, but the British Museum * p.83 takes some beating. ‘the royal parks are a great places to go for a run – and i like to cycle everywhere. On a sunny day there is no better way to get around and to see the city.’

Above (clockwise from top lef): Bistrotheque; Crate Brewery; The British Museum

98 | G U I D E

Bicester Village Located just one hour away from central London, Bicester Village is surrounded by picturesque countryside and is close to the historic city of oxford. Bicester Village plays host to more than 130 boutiques from leading big-name brands and creative up-and-coming labels. the architectural design refects its setting, with low-rise boutiques clustered around an open-air boulevard. Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, oxfordshire oX26 6wD, +44 (0)1869 323200, bicestervillage.com Opening times Monday-Friday: 10am – 7pm Saturday: 9am – 8pm Sunday: 10am – 7pm* *on Sundays Burberry, gucci, Hugo Boss and Polo Ralph Lauren open at 11.30am for browsing and at 12pm for shopping; they close at 6pm. Prada and Versace open from 12pm to 6pm for shopping.

DoN’t MISS… Shopping Day Experience this exclusive package includes: • Return tickets on the Shopping express® luxury coach service from central London to Bicester Village • A VIP card providing further 10% savings on purchases in more than 130 boutiques • Hands-free shopping service where boutique assistants pack your purchases ready for collection later • A two-course lunch or dinner at either Busaba eathai, Villandry grand Café or Carluccio’s • £50 prepaid MasterCard gift card for use in boutiques of your choice.

New oPeNINgS

Oscar de la Renta

British Designers’ Collective

Add a touch of Hollywood glamour to your wardrobe with a trip to oscar de la Renta. the designer is known for producing inherently feminine pieces.

For a comprehensive overview of British menswear, look no further than the British Designers’ Collective popup. Curated by gQ associate editor Robert Johnston, this temporary shop features collections from more than 15 of Britain’s emerging and established menswear designers.

globalblue.com

Gina gina’s shoes come in sculptural styles that demonstrate an imaginative use of cut, colour and fabric. Be sure to admire the label’s meticulous attention to detail.

S H O P | 99

PeRFeCt DAy

Verity Hogan, SHoP’s city guide and lifestyle editor, describes how she would spend a perfect day at Bicester Village

How to get tHeRe By Shopping Express® the Shopping express® is the daily* coach service from central London to Bicester Village, one of the world’s premier luxury shopping destinations. *excludes 25 December

10am Start your day with a master class in British style at Charles Tyrwhitt. the label is famed for its highquality, precision-cut shirts and expert service.

ticket prices: Adult return £25 Child return £20 (up to 15 years of age) By Train

11am

1pm

whether you’re looking for sandals, boots, platforms or ballerina pumps, the sophisticated range at Rupert Sanderson is sure to impress.

Stop for lunch at Italian restaurant Carluccio’s. the menu includes fresh pasta, risotto and salad dishes while the atmosphere is lively and relaxed.

5pm

3pm

end your day admiring the stylish, hardwearing and practical luggage at Samsonite. An item from here will be ideal for transporting your purchases home safely.

Hearts on Fire provides a selection of the world’s fnest cut diamonds and is known as a leader in the international feld. Prepare to be dazzled.

there are regular services – up to four an hour – from London Marylebone to Bicester North station. the journey time from London Marylebone to Bicester North can take as little as 42 minutes. the Bicester Village Shuttle Bus will whisk you to your favourite boutiques. By Car the journey from London takes 60 minutes. take the M40 motorway to exit nine. Follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester and then follow the signs to Village Retail Park and Bicester Village outlet Centre. the car park is free. If you are using a satellite navigation system, the postcode is oX26 6wD.

100

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2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces. Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of £30-£50 and save up to 11% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

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Refund Ofces

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Heathrow: Terminal 3 Gates 2–10

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Gate 1

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106

Translations РусскИй ПеРевОд

Стивен Дойг готов признать тренч Burberry не только неувядающей британской классикой, но и национальным достоянием

52: In Focus: The Burberry Trench Coat

Идеальное Оформление

globalblue.com

Едва ли какой-либо предмет гардероба способен воплотить истинно британский дух так, как тренч Burberry. Красивый и безупречно продуманный, он защищает от моросящих дождей лондонской зимы своего владельца, устремившегося по лондонским улицам к блеску Риджет-Стрит. Этот классический предмет одежды укоренился в британской истории и культуре, сыграв свою роль в поворотные моменты жизни страны. Кроме того, с его помощью остаются на плаву мастеровые сообщества Великобритании, получающие стабильные заказы от Burberry. Под руководством креативного директора модного дома Кристофера Бейли этот классический плащ получает многочисленные переосмысления: со складками и защипами, украшенные бисером, бахромой, прозрачными вставками и ручной росписью – в любом случае, вот уже 100 лет эта вещь по-прежнему остается надежным вложением в стиль. Знаменитое пальто носили заметные персоны – от Хамфри Богарта и Уинстона Черчилля до Одри Хепберн и принцессы Уэльской Дианы. Так что оно стало фактом стильной истории не только Burberry, но и всей британской моды. Все началось в 1856 году, когда помощник торговца тканями Томас Берберри открыл собственное дело по производству верхней одежды. Вскоре он его одежду стали использовать для военных целей. В 1912 году компания Burberry получила патент на удлиненное пальто Tielocken, прообраз тренчкота: его основным предназначением в то время была защита армейских и морских офицеров от превратностей британской погоды. Военными же задачами объясняются стилистические дополнения: погоны для военных знаков отличия, а также пряжки в форме буквы D. Символично, что зачастую

офицеры носили пальто и вне службы. Основой уникальности тренча Burberry стала инновационная ткань. Раньше, чтобы добиться водонепроницаемости, одежду прорезинивали или пропитывали воском, отчего она становилась тяжелой и негибкой. Томасу Берберри приписывается изобретение габардина – материала с плотным плетением волокон, из которого традиционно производятся эти пальто. Благодаря увеличению частоты и количества волокон, ткань сохраняла водонепроницаемость и не пропускала влагу. И это было новым словом в сфере верхней одежды. И вот уже несколько поколений британцев наслаждаются изобретением Burberry. Более того, эта традиция открыла профессиональные возможности многим мастерам, умело соединяющим ремесленные навыки с современными технологиями. До сих пор фирменные тренчи шьются исключительно в Каслфорде, на севере Англии. На каждое пальто необходимо три недели, или более 100 этапов производства. Сам габардин также по-прежнему ткут здесь, и его качество постоянно проверяется исключительно вручную: только так можно убедиться в отсутствии брака. Даже воротничок одного тренча настолько сложен по конструкции, что мастер должен учиться целый год, чтобы считаться профессионалом в этом деле. Ведь воротник должен сидеть на шее легко и органично. Складка на спинке и отделка манжет и ремня – это исключительно ручная работа. Тем более что форма складки, например, остается неизменной с тех времен, когда пальто предназначалось еще для верховой езды: она обеспечивала раскованность движения и доступ воздуха. Не так уж важно, какую версию тренча Burberry вы предпочтете - классическую бежевую с фирменной клеткой или блестящую металлическую. Но когда вы наденете его, вы почувствуете близость британской истории и оцените искусность мастеров Burberry. burberry.com

PHOTO: LOndOn design FesTivaL 2014, 13 – 21 sePTember/LOndOndesignFesTivaL.cOm

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58: Top Of The World

На вершине мира Модная жизнь в Лондоне поистине активна: здесь живут и работают как уже известные дизайнеры, так и подающие надежды таланты. Джош Симс рассказывает о самых интересных из них – тех, кому город обязан славой мировой столицы дизайна Закончив учебу на северо-востоке Великобритании, Крис Холден уже знал, что есть только в одном городе ему суждено воплотить свои планы и стать со-основателем марки модернистских аксессуаров Ajoto: «Лондон. Наши аксессуары производятся в самых разных точках Британии, но при этом мне жизненно необходимо присутствовать в Лондоне. Ведь сейчас это средоточие дизайна мирового уровня. Здесь особая конкурентная среда, и посредственности просто не остается места». Более того, два года назад критик дизайна из Te New York Times признал, что Лондон превосходит даже Нью-Йорк в роли мирового креативного центра, и его

аргументы были весьма убедительны. К лондонским школам искусства и дизайна относятся с должным почтением. Слава модных событий также способствует репутации британской столицы, будь то более 200 мероприятий в рамках London Design Festival или более локальные ярмарки, как, например, недавняя Clerkenwell Design Week. Географическое положение Лондона посередине между США и Азией весьма привлекательно для крупного бизнеса. Да и ценителям дизайна со всего мира удобно навещать город. Даже история сыграла свою роль: «Просто побывав здесь, вы не сможете не заметить разнообразие стилей – в товарах на полках, оформлении интерьеров и архитектуре, ведь в городе сохранились строения эпохи королей Георгов, ар-деко и модернизма, - размышляет Холден. – Флоренция, конечно, красива, но там же только Ренессанс». Процессы последних десятилетий также оказывают на креативную жизнь города существенное влияние. Лондон globalblue.com

активно поощряет творческие поиски своих талантов. Помимо знаменитых модных дизайнеров, здесь плодотворно работают и такие фигуры, как Теренс Конран: в 1960-70-е годы он преобразил сам подход к дизайну интерьеров и организации продаж. Основанный им магазин Habitat отмечает 50-летие в этом году, а его новая книга Plain Simple Useful раскрывает его принципы практичного дизайна. На 1980-е и 90-е пришелся расцвет творчества Тома Диксона, Рона Арада и Росса Лавгрова. Они стали пионерами новой индустриальной и органической эстетики. Параллельно в Лондон переехали звезды из других стран – в частности, Марк Ньюсон и Заха Хадид. Можно предположить, дизайнерский стиль этого города пронизывает та же своенравность, которую приписывают его моде. Например, Арад и Диксон – оба самоучки. «Порой даже лучше, если у вас меньше знаний, меньше информации. Тогда вы не будете оценивать свое творчество с экспертной позиции или пытаться повторять уже сделанное кем-то.

PHOTO: (LEFT) LOndOn dEsign FEsTivaL 2014, 13 – 21 sEPTEmbEr/LOndOndEsignFEsTivaL.cOm

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Вы будете подходить ко всему с детским энтузиазмом», - объясняет свою позицию Диксон, который недавно выпустил линию одежды для Adidas. «Я не очень хорош в том, что должен делать, - утверждает Арад. – Поэтому иногда я позволяю себе похулиганить». Он приводит в пример историю, когда ему заказали разработать стул из нескольких слоев акрилового камня, предполагалось соединить их невидимым клеем. Дизайнер решил покрасить клей, чтобы в текстуре камня появился угольный шов. Нужно ли говорить, в итоге стул выглядел куда более интересно. Для другого заказа он сделал шины для велосипеда не из резины, а из петель упругой стали. Критики посчитали этот продукт произведением искусства, а не полноценным транспортным средством. В ответ дизайнер снял на видео собственную поездку на этом велосипеде по Лондону. К самому молодому поколению лондонских дизайнеров можно отнести Томаса Хизервика и Барбера Осгерби. Компания Yoo, которая была основана Джоном Хитчкоксом и занимается разработкой открытых планировок вслед за Manhattan Lof Company, сотрудничала с подающими надежды Расселлом Сейджем и Бетаном Греем над открытием Yoo Home этим летом. Это будет самый крупный монобрендовый магазин в универмаге Harrods. «Если вы регулярно приезжаете в Лондон, что непременно заметите, что многое изменилось за последнее десятилетие. Город развивается, размышляет дизайнер интерьерных аксессуаров Ли Брум, открывший собственную компанию шесть лет назад. – Город участвует в развитии дизайнерских выставок и новой архитектуры во всем ее противоречивом разнообразии. В то же время, экономическая рецессия спровоцировала появление поп-ап магазинов и более камерных проектов, которые только подтверждают важность постоянного контакта с аудиторией для карьеры молодых дизайнеров». По словам дизайнера и художника

Рольфа Сача, переехавшего в Лондон 20 лет назад, развитие дизайна отразилось на всех сторонах жизни города: «Несложно заметить, каким влиятельным оказалось современное искусство, - делится он своими наблюдениями. – Это значит, что теперь люди осознают, насколько важен хороший дизайн, причем не только для продаж, но и в барах, ресторанах и отелях. И конкуренция в этой сфере только растет. И те, кто неравнодушен к высококлассному дизайну, в Лондоне никогда не перестанут восторгаться». ajoto.com, conran.com, tomdixon.net, ronarad.co.uk, rosslovegrove.com, marc-newson.com, zaha-hadid.com, heatherwick.com, barberosgerby.com, yoo.com, homebyyoo.com, leebroom.com, rolfsachs.com 64: Bags For Life

Сумки для жизни Аня Хиндмарч – один из самых востребованных дизайнеров аксессуаров в Лондоне. Созданные ею сумки всегда тщательно проработаны и отличаются остроумным дизайном. Фрэнсис Уэйсем познакомился с историей ее бренда Далеко не все мэтры моды способны управлять глобальной бизнес-империей, не теряя при этом чувства юмора и способности давать советы с теплой дружеской интонацией. Дизайнер аксессуаров Аня Хиндмарч – как раз из таких: в ней благополучно уживаются порой противоположные, но истинно британские черты характера. Она скромна: «Я предпочитаю носить некричащие комплекты», - это ее слова. Превозносить саму себя – не в ее манере, зато в ней всегда чувствуется живая, творческая искра. И дизайн – самая большая страсть Хиндмарч, причем наибольшее внимание она уделяет профессиональному мастерству и качеству. «Если вы найдете идеального мастера, то сумка запоет», - раскрывает она свой секрет. И нет оснований ей не верить: Аня Хиндмарч неустанно трудится в модной сфере уже 26 лет. Все свои модели

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она придумывает в собственной студии с кирпичными стенами, расположенной в центре района Bermondsey. Этот принцип стал залогом популярности ее сумок. А ведь в этой индустрии конкуренция высока: за место на полке идет в буквальном смысле борьба. Кроме того, довольно долго тренды задавали It-bag с узнаваемыми логотипами. «Меня не слишком волнуют громкие имена: куда больше мне интересны качество и уровень мастерства», - размышляет Хиндмарч. Неудивительно, что большая часть ее продукции производится в Италии, где кожевенное дело имеет многовековую историю. О внимании Хиндмарч к деталям буквально слагают легенды: карманы для мобильного телефона и ручек всегда окажутся там, где им надлежит быть. Кроме того, в работу идут только мягчайшие виды кожи, а также шагреневые вставки и декоративные ювелирные украшения. На globalblue.com

создание одного экземпляра у мастеров уходит целый день: «Я предпочитаю старомодные техники, но переосмысляю их современным способом», - утверждает дизайнер. Аня Хиндмарч выросла в Эссексе, к северо-востоку от Лондона. Когда Ане исполнилось 16 лет, мама отдала ей свою сумку Gucci – и так начался ее продолжительный роман с аксессуарами. Эта сумка, как и весь гардероб матери в целом, оказала на нее огромное влияние: «Мне кажется, дизайн воспринимается подсознательно. Я отлично помню, каким индивидуальным стилем обладала моя мама в 70-е! В памяти живо встает тот момент, когда она вручила мне ту старую сумочку Gucci. Я очень волновалась и хорошо запомнила, насколько неповторимо можно чувствовать себя с такой вещью». Вскоре после этого, в нежном возрасте 19 лет, дизайнер открыла свое дело. Она разместила анонс в Harpers & Queen (теперь он называется Harper’s Bazaar) – и с первой же партии заработала 7000 фунтов. Так официально появился лейбл Anya Hindmarch, а в 1993 году Хиндмарч открыла первый магазин в Челси. В течение нескольких лет она умело воплощала успешные маркетинговые решения, которые привели к бренду почитателей со всего мира. Одной из таких инициатив стал знаменитый слоган 2007 года «I’m not a plastic bag»: эта рекламная кампания изменила наши представления о том, в чем лучше носить продукты из супермакета. Еще одной остроумной идеей стало разослать модным редакторам накануне модных недель комплекты Fashion Week Survival Kit с таблетками от головной боли, водой, леденцами и лейкопластырем. А в 2009 году Хиндмарч начала создавать индивидуальные аксессуары на заказ. По мнению дизайнера, «люди перестали чувствовать связь с процессом создания сумки»: «А ведь это самое интересное! Реальная роскошь – в том, чтобы знать: моя вещь создана специально по моим требованиям». В наши дни Anya Hindmarch –

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это современный роскошный бренд мирового уровня, сумевший сохранить дух ремесленного производства. Все сотрудники работают на компанию уже много лет и сохраняют глубокую лояльность к ее принципам. А всеми финансовыми вопросами занимается супруг дизайнера Джеймс Сеймур. В разных точках мира работает почти 60 фирменных магазинов: в частности, в минувшем августе открылся флагманский бутик на Манхэттене. Среди самых известных клиентов марки – герцогиня Кембриджская, Кейт Мосс, Анджелина Джоли, Кара Делевинь и Кэролайн Исса. Профессиональное сообщество признает достижения Ани Хиндмарч в качестве предпринимателя. В 2001 году ей вручили премию British Fashion Council как дизайнеру аксессуаров года. А 2009 она получила MBE, а в 2012 Veuve Clicquot назвал ее Бизнесвумен года. Она входит в состав правлений Музея дизайна и Королевской академии искусств. Премьер-министр Великобритании Дэвид Кэмерон назначил ее торговым послом страны. Помимо бизнеса, еще одной составляющей успеха стала здоровая самоирония. В 2012 году состоялось первое подиумное шоу изумительной коллекции Quality Street: вошедшие в нее сумки были стилизованы под британские старомодно упакованные конфеты и шоколадки Quality Street. В коллекции сезона осень/ зима 2014 сочетаются повседневность и высокая роскошь: обратите внимание на клатч Kellogg’s Coco Pops, а также сумки, стилизованные под пластиковый пакет и спичечный коробок Swan Vesper. Отчасти своим успехом Хиндмарч обязана духу Лондона. Что же делает британскую столицу столь особенным местом? «Это чрезвычайно активный центр креативности, которая распространяется на весь мир, - объясняет она. – Лондонские дизайнеры готовы рисковать. И на самом деле, эта готовность вкупе со страстью к неизведанному и способствуют успеху. Так много наших талантливых дизайнеров основывают собственные лейблы в

юном возрасте или работают на самые престижные модные дома по всему миру. Так что у нас определенно есть повод для гордости за лондонцев». И этот город гордится ее достижениями в такой же степени, поскольку она выводит лондонский дизайн аксессуаров на мировой уровень: ее сумками восхищаются во всем мире. Покидая дом Хиндмарч, я обращаю внимание на слоган, украшающий стену: «Всем нужна сумка». Лучше прочитать его читать так: «Всем нужна сумка Anya Hindmarch». anyahindmarch.com 100: When you shop the world, shop tax free Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохораните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум £30-£50 и сэкономьте до 11% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

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美文翻译

52: In Focus: The Burberry Trench Coat 焦点:博伯利风衣博伯利风衣作为英国经典外套的历史绵远流长，具有英国国宝般的魅力，Stephen Doig如是说。很少有服装品牌能如博伯利一样能代言英国经典形象。博伯利风衣的品质无可挑剔，惊艳无俩。伦敦细雨零濛的冬日，博伯利风衣为人遮风挡雨，也为你带来摄政街的流光溢彩。这些经典服装如今已被编织进英国历史与文化之中，在这个国家的精彩时刻中得以铭记，并且使得英国制造行业继续存活。风衣在博伯利创意总监Christopher Bailey的奇妙手笔下有着各色各样的转化——掐捏、褶皱、与各色珠子、流苏、透明面料与绘画斑点相串联——然而主题风格却依旧恒久，保持100多年不曾改变。博伯利风衣在传奇人物身上有着令人印象深刻的表达。从亨弗莱·鲍嘉，温斯顿·丘吉尔，奥黛丽· 赫本到已故威尔士王妃戴安娜，变化万千。这是博伯利和英国风格历史融汇结合的一部分。1856 年，服装学徒Thomas Burberry 创办了他的户外服装公司,并将生意扩展到军事用途。1912 年，博伯利的长大衣申请了专利，并命名为 Tielocken，在后来被称作为“风衣”，以保护军队和海军军官来抵御英国的恶劣天气。这些服装委实好看，以至于这些军官们在下班后也一样穿着大衣。时尚与军事结合甚为融洽——肩章上添加了军事徽章，D字皮带扣上添加军事物件。博伯利风衣独一无二之处还在于面料创新。这是其核心技术。Thomas Burberry的功劳在于发明斜纹布，这紧密织就的布料有着传统工艺。从前的

globalblue.com

防水面料通常经由涂蜡或者胶化制成，沉重而且笨拙。直到斜纹布出现，通过增加密度和线数，博伯利面料不仅能通风，而且足够强大足以防水——这是外衣的新方向。博伯利为几代英国人装着打下基调，也为熟练工人提供就业机会。风衣在英格兰北部Castleford 制作而成，工人们将传统技巧与现代工艺相结合。斜纹布料在此织就，只凭肉眼检查以确保布料毫无瑕疵。工人们大概需要3个礼拜100多道工序来制作一件外套。风衣领子如此复杂，亦工匠们耗费一年的时间来学习如何缝合，以确保领子状如流线。后褶和袖口以及肩带是手工剪裁制作而成。纵使人们骑马磨破了大衣，后褶上的线条依然保持一致，以便运动和通风。无论是选择有着精美衬里的经典款博伯利焦糖色风衣，或是选择闪耀的金属版本风衣。当你穿上博伯利，都仿佛穿着婆娑的英国历史和精湛工艺。 burberry.com

58: Top Of The World 焦点:博伯利风衣伦敦的繁荣创作场景，涵盖了从明星到闪耀的当代天才以及未来的新晋人才，伦敦就此夯实了它作为国际设计大都市的地位，Josh Sims 采撷了这些个其中精华。产品设计师Chris Holden完成了他在英国东北部的学业后，他深刻晓得有个城市最适合来打造他的现代主义配饰公司。“那就是伦敦”他说，“我们在英国各地都制作产品，但是必须在伦敦来加以展示。伦敦是这个世界的设计展示窗口，一丝平庸都无可容忍，充满了竞争气候。” 的确，两年前，一位《纽约时报》的设计评论家便宣告伦敦已经战胜了纽约，成为全球的创意中心。此评论依据不仅在于伦敦久负盛名的艺术设计学校，还在于不断上升的国际设计展的声名。无论是伦敦设计周两百余场的走秀，还是更加本地化的 Clerkenwell设计周，皆是这个城市设计声名显赫的缘由。这个城市介于美国和亚洲之间的地理位置吸引了众多大企业，也意味着来自世界各地的设计天才们将在此打出一条奇险通道。甚至伦敦的历史也在证明着它的多样性。“作为伦敦的游客，你将处处被此城市设计所惊艳，无法忽视这里设计的多样性，这些新颖的创意流淌在货架上，室内设计上，那些交织着格鲁吉亚装饰艺术和现代主义的建筑上。” Holden说，“佛伦罗萨很美丽但伦敦是永不停歇的文艺复兴。” 近来的设计历史对伦敦的影响也可谓深远。伦敦培育了极具影响力的本土设计人才。知名设计师

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如 Terence Conran在1960和70年代，彻底革新了室内设计和零售设计。他所创立的Habitat品牌已有 50春秋。他最新出版的著作Plain Simple Useful，详实地反映了他的实用设计理念。 80 年代和 90 年代崛起的设计师 Tom Dixon , Ron Arad和Ross Lovegrove，在各自的领域里引领了新的有机工业美学。吸引了来自国外的大设计师比如Marc Newson以及 Zaha Hadid驻扎于这个城市。某种离奇乖张的气氛弥漫在伦敦设计之上，而这种奇特也贯穿了整个城市时尚。Arad和Dixon都是自学成才的。“通常来说，当你知识贮备越少，越不被其他繁盛信息干扰时，你的设计反而越好。你无需如专家一样工作，或者做任何已然成型的工作。因为你能带来孩子般的热情，” Dixon解释道，他最近正在为阿迪达斯的服装品牌线服务。我并非很擅长于我应该做的事，Arad说，“我觉得我有时不过是侥幸成功。”他的一个任务是设计一把椅子，他首先使用隐形胶水将芫荽层层粘合在一起，然后将胶水的颜色上色，效果看起来好像是将煤块粘合在岩石上。当然了，这个椅子看起来便更加有趣。他的另一个任务是设计一辆自行车，车轮没有轮胎，由许多圈弹簧组成。当这个作品被视作艺术品而非功能性运输工具时，他却又偏偏反其道而动之，拍摄视频，证实他可以骑着车沿着伦敦环行。近来，设计师比如 Thomas Heatherwick 和 Barber Osgerby已经展露头角。John Hitchcox所创办的Yoo 公司倡导开放式居住，曼哈顿阁楼公司联手年轻天才Russell Sage以及Bethan Gray在今年夏天创始了 Yoo Home，这将是哈罗德最大的单店品牌。 “经常来伦敦的人会注意到去过十年的宏大变化”，室内产品设计师Lee Broom如此说，他六年前开创了他自己事业。“市长帮忙推动设计展会和新建筑，具有极大的争议性。经济衰退使得小商店和卫星展会成了新设计人才的重要展示手段。” 设计师和艺术家Rolf Sachs在20年前搬到了伦敦，他说设计文化在伦敦有着所向披靡的影响力。“ 我们可以看见设计文化在伦敦散播，这与伦敦在现代艺术的重要性上是相吻合。”他说，“这还意味着我们对于良好设计的需求比原来强烈很多。”这种需要不只体现在销售上，还在酒吧、餐馆和酒店里。都市设计领域的竞争愈发激烈，却是寻找灵感的天堂，让寻觅灵感的人无限激动。” ajoto.com, conran.com, tomdixon.net, ronarad.co.uk, rosslovegrove.com, marc-newson.com, zaha-hadid.com, heatherwick.com, barberosgerby.com, yoo.com, homebyyoo.com, leebroom.com, rolfsachs.com

64: Bags For Life Anya Hindmarch手袋，你值得拥有伦敦配饰设计师 Anya Hindmarch，近来声名鹊起。她擅长制作精美手袋，这些手袋处处洋溢着设计智慧。她对Frances Wasem详尽介绍了这个品牌的进化史。难得有时尚巨头在掌控全球商业帝国的同时，还能如老友一般俏皮打趣，提出温暖贴心的建议，配饰设计师Anya Hindmarch便是不多的那几个。她品牌的英伦气息繁盛：低调（她的衣服有着安静态度）；她喜欢自嘲；她时常迸发出活泼泼的创作火花；她是个设计狂，具体地说，她对工艺与配饰的完美结合有着深深迷醉。Hindmarch在时尚行业已然沉浸已有26 年了，她说“如果你能找到一个完美工匠，他制作出的手包都如乐曲般歌唱。” 正是这种理念使得她的手袋极为抢手——这个行业竞争极其激烈，手袋争抢着货架空间。为了让客户一目了然，手袋上都嵌有显眼标识。“我从不沉迷于设计师的名字，”她说。她砖墙结构的设计工作室位于伦敦Bermondsey中心，在这里手袋得以精良设计。“相反，我却极度沉迷于工艺。”这种痴迷让她前往意大利寻觅精良工艺。她的手袋也在此打造。她对于细节的关注早已经是业内传奇。工匠们埋首于制作，往往需要一天时间。手包设计精巧考究，内里有用来放置手机和笔的精致口袋。她对设计的执念令人赞叹，黄油般的柔软皮革，鲨鱼皮镶嵌工艺，甚至服装珠宝也是她浩瀚设计海洋的灵感珠玉。“我热爱使用过时技术，并希望将他们在现代工艺里加以解释”她说。 Hindmarch在伦敦东北部的埃塞克斯长大。她对于配饰的爱恋始于年幼。16岁那年，妈妈送给她

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一款过时的古奇手袋点亮了她灵感的花火。一直以来，这个古旧手袋以及母亲的衣橱给她设计浮光掠影的灵感。“我认为设计是潜意识的。我妈妈在 70 年代是位潮女，我清楚记得当我接过那古奇手袋时，我的无比兴奋和澎湃激荡的灵感。” 在那之后，Hindmarch的生意蒸蒸日上。不过 19岁，她开始将广告投放于于Harpers & Queen（现名为Harper ’s Bazaar），然后将7000 镑的胜利销售果实带回到她的生意，随后Anya Hindmarch 品牌诞生。1993年，Hindmarch在切尔西开张了第一家店铺。多年来，她审时度势改变营销战略以发展此品牌的全球受众。这些营销手段包括2007年“ 我不是塑料袋”的环保口号，以期改变人们在超市的购物习惯。她还打造了时装周生存装备袋，如此诙谐幽默（满装着头疼片，水，糖果，和创可贴）。营销做得极为精心，时尚编辑是营销的起始点，时装周开始之前，便把袋子送出以博眼球。2009 年，他们开创定制业务。Hindmarch认为如今人们对制作极为漠然，却不晓得这才是真正有趣之处。真正的奢侈在于理解这些事物怎样量身打造。如今的Anya Hindmarch已是一个全球现代奢侈品牌，却还包涵着工坊时代精神——Hindmarch 与她的忠诚团队已共事多年。她最著名的客人包括剑桥公爵夫人，凯特·摩丝、安吉丽娜·朱莉、卡拉· 迪瓦伊、卡罗琳·伊莎。Anya Hindmarch的丈夫 James Seymour与她一起共事并在她的公司担任 CFO。他们如今在全球已扩张出 60 家店面。去年八月，Hindmarch在寸土寸金的曼哈顿开了一家流光溢彩的旗舰店。作为备受尊敬的商人，她获得的奖项不胜枚举。2001年她荣获英国时装协会奖最佳配饰设计师奖，2009年荣获MBE 奖，2012 年， Veuve Clicquot 授予她年度女企业家的称号。此外，她还是设计博物馆和皇家艺术学院理事，被首相戴维•卡梅伦任命为英国贸易大使。除却商业荣誉外，她品牌的趣味部分在于她的幽默感。2012年她的首秀上，精巧的Quality Street 系列出场便引得众人痴醉，手袋状若英国Quality Street的糖果和巧克力，甜蜜可爱。 2014年秋冬时装周，她的作品在日常琐事中寻觅奢华，包括家乐氏可可脆饼盒手拿包，一只形如薯条带子的链条包和一只Swan Vesta火柴盒子手拿包。 H i nd m a r c h工坊成功之处部分来自于所在地— — 伦敦的魅力。问到她为何觉得伦敦如此特别？“这是一个难以令人置信的创意中心，在全球都赫赫有名。” Hindmarc解释道，“伦敦设计师们极具冒险精神，事实上，正是这种冒险精神助力于成功。我们许多天才设计师在他们非常年轻时便创建了自己的品牌，或者是为许多深富名望的全球品牌工作——我们为自己的产品感到无比自豪。” 伦敦也因拥有这样的名设计师而熠熠生辉。她 globalblue.com

用全球都欣羡的手袋将这个城市牢牢打点在时尚地图上。当我离开Hindmarch家之时，印在墙上的口号吸引了我的目光“每个人都需要一个手袋”。大概是“每个人都需要一个Anya Hindmarch手包。” anyahindmarch.com

100: When you shop the world, shop tax free 畅购全球，尊享退税当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程：

1. 消费购物无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点领取您的退税款。联系方式：

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费X £30 -£50并且节约高达购买价格11%的税。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退税手续费。

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‫بالجلد الحبب غي الدبوغ حتى أنّها تستخدم أحياناً الجوهرات‬ ‫“أحب العمل بالتقنيات التقليدية لك ّنني‬ ‫ف تصاميمها‪ .‬وتقول‪:‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أترجمها بطرق حديثة‪”.‬‬ ‫ترعرعت ‪ Hindmarch‬ف ‪ ،Essex‬شمل شق لندن‪ .‬وتفتّحت‬ ‫براعم حبّها للكسسوارات وهي يافعة ل تبلغ من العمر إل ‪16‬‬ ‫عاماً عندما أعطتها والدتها حقيبة ‪ Gucci‬التي ل تعد تريدها‪.‬‬ ‫وتأث ّرت تصاميمها كثيا ً بالحقيبة (وبخزانة ثياب والدتها)‪.‬‬ ‫“أعتقد أ ّن التصميم نابع عن لوعينا‪ .‬وأتذكّر والدت ف‬ ‫عيني اللحظة التي أعطتني‬ ‫السبعينيات وأناقتها‪ .‬إذ ل تزال نصب ّ‬ ‫فيها حقيبتها ‪ Gucci‬القدية‪ .‬أتذكّر حمستي والشعور الذي‬ ‫أحسست به بفضل هذه الحقيبة‪”.‬‬ ‫بعد فتة قصية‪ ،‬أطلقت ‪ Hindmarch‬شكتها ف س ّن يافعة‬ ‫عندما بلغت ‪ 19‬عاماً‪ .‬باشت العمل بنش إعلن ف مجلّة‬ ‫‪( Harpers & Queen‬التي بات اسمها اليوم ‪Harper’s‬‬ ‫‪ )Bazaar‬وعادت لتستثمر ما جنته من مبيعاتها (أي ‪ 7‬آلف‬ ‫جينيه استليني) لتط ّور شكتها فأبصت بذلك علمة ‪Anya‬‬ ‫‪ Hindmarch‬التجارية النور‪ .‬وف العام ‪ ،1993‬افتتحت‬ ‫‪ Hindmarch‬أ ّول متجر لها ف مدينة ‪ .Chelsea‬ومع مرور‬ ‫العوام اعتمدت طرقاً تسويقيّ ًة جديدة شهرت علمتها التجارية‬ ‫حول العال‪ .‬وتتض ّمن هذه الطرق التسويقية شعار “لست كيساً‬ ‫بلستيكياً” (‪ )I’m not a plastic bag‬الشهي الذي ظهر‬ ‫وغي طريقة تس ّوقنا ف السوبرماركت‪ ،‬والفكرة‬ ‫ف العام ‪ّ 2007‬‬ ‫الذكية بإرسال “حقيبة السعاف ف أسبوع الوضة” (الليئة‬ ‫بحبوب مكافحة الصداع والياه والسكاكر والضمدات) إل محرري‬ ‫مجلت الزياء قبل بداية أسبوع الوضة‪ ،‬بالضافة إل إطلق خدمة‬ ‫الحقائب الصنوعة حسب الطلب ف العام ‪ .2009‬وف ما يتعلّق‬ ‫بالخدمة الخية تقول ‪“ :Hindmarch‬ل يعد ينتبه الناس إل‬ ‫طريقة صنع الغراض وهذا ما يثي الهتمم‪ .‬إذ تكمن الرفاهية‬ ‫ف استيعاب طريقة صنع الشء با يتلءم مع متطلباتك‪”.‬‬ ‫وتُعتب علمة ‪ Anya Hindmarch‬اليوم علمة تجارية فاخرة‬ ‫وعالية عل الرغم من طابع الصناعة اليدوية النزلية الذي تتّسم‬ ‫به– وقد مضت أعوام عل عمل فريق ‪ Hindmarch‬معها ول‬ ‫يزال اليوم إل جانبها ووفياً لها‪ .‬ومن بي زبائنها الكث شهرة تبز‬ ‫دوقة كامبيدج ‪ Kate Moss‬و ‪ Angelina Jolie‬و‪Cara‬‬ ‫‪ Delevingne‬و ‪ .Caroline Issa‬وتعمل ‪Hindmarch‬‬ ‫مع زوجها ‪James Seymour‬وهو يتو ّل الدارة الالية‬ ‫للشكة التي بات لها اليوم حوال ‪ 60‬متجرا ً ف كافّة أقطاب‬ ‫العال‪ .‬وف شهر أغسطس‪/‬آب الاض‪ ،‬افتتحت متجرا ً أساسياً ف‬ ‫مدينة ‪ .Manhattan‬ول ّ‬ ‫شك ف أ ّن ‪ Hindmarch‬امرأة‬ ‫أعمل محتمة‪ :‬إذ حازت عل لقب أفضل مصممة أكسسوارات‬ ‫لعام ‪ 2001‬ف حفل توزيع جوائز مجلس الوضة البيطان‪ ،‬كم‬ ‫نالت وسام العضو ف المباطورية البيطانية ف العام ‪،2009‬‬ ‫وس ّمتها دار ‪ Veuve Clicquot‬أفضل سيدة أعمل لعام‬ ‫‪ .2012‬إنّها اليوم أحد أمناء متحف التصميم والكاديية اللكية‬ ‫وقد عيّنها رئيس الوزراء ‪ David Cameron‬سفية التجارة ف‬ ‫الملكة التحدة‪.‬‬ ‫وبعيدا ً عن عال العمل تشكّل روحها الرحة جزءا ً أساسياً من‬ ‫علمتها التجارية‪ .‬ض ّم أول عرض لها ف العام ‪ 2012‬مجموعة‬ ‫‪ Quality Street‬التي تض ّمنت حقائب مص ّممة عل أشكال‬ ‫الحلويات والشوكولتة البيطانية القدية ‪.Quality Street‬‬

‫وتضفي مجموعة خريف‪/‬شتاء ‪ 2014‬عل الحقائب اليومية نكهة‬ ‫الفخامة والرفاهية وتض ّم حقيبة يدويّة عل شكل علبة رقائق‬ ‫‪ ،Kellogg’s Coco Pops‬وحقيبة كتف بسلسلة عل شكل‬ ‫كيس رقائق البطاطس القرمشة وأخرى عل شكل علبة كبيت‬ ‫‪.Swan Vestas‬‬ ‫ويعود فضل نجاح ‪ Hindmarch‬ف ما بات يُس ّمى صناعتها‬ ‫النزلية إل مق ّرها ف لندن‪ .‬فم الذي ييّز لندن بنظرها؟ تفس‬ ‫قائلة‪“ :‬هي مركز البداع الرائع الذي ينبض بالحمس عل‬ ‫ولعل هذه‬ ‫الصعيد العالي‪ .‬فمص ّممو لندن ل يخشون الخاطرة‪ّ .‬‬ ‫الخاطرة وروح الغامرة يساهمن ف النجاح‪ .‬إذ إ ّن مص ّممي‬ ‫موهوبي كثيين يطلقون علماتهم التجارية ف س ّن يافعة أو‬ ‫يعملون ف أه ّم دور الوضة عالياً – ول ب ّد لنا اليوم أن نفتخر‬ ‫بالواطني البيطانيي الذين يعملون ف الخارج‪”.‬‬ ‫ول ّ‬ ‫رسخت وجود الدينة ف‬ ‫شك ف أ ّن لندن تفتخر بها أيضاً فقد ّ‬ ‫ساحة الكسسوارات العالية بفضل حقائب تعجب الناس ف كافة‬ ‫أطياف العال‪ .‬وفيم غادرتُ منزل ‪ ،Hindmarch‬لفت انتباهي‬ ‫شعار نُقش عل الجدار‪“ :‬الجميع بحاجة إل حقيبة‪ ”.‬ولو تكّنت‬ ‫من إضفاء بصمتي عليه لكتبت‪“ :‬الجميع بحاجة إل حقيبة‬ ‫‪”.Anya Hindmarch‬‬ ‫‪anyahindmarch.com‬‬ ‫‪،When you shop the world‬‬ ‫‪shop tax free: 100‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من‬ ‫‪ 270, 000‬متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪.1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪.2‬أطلب‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة‬ ‫الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫مكاتب الستداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@ globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪£30 -£50‬‬

‫وادّخر حتّى ‪ 11%‬من‬ ‫ثن مشتياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل‬ ‫عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪.‬‬ ‫ف بعض الطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب‬ ‫استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري‬ ‫نقدي‪.‬‬

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‫بدءا ً بئتي حدث ف احتفال التصاميم ف لندن وصولً إل العروض‬ ‫الحليّة كأسبوع التصاميم الخي ف منطقة ‪.Clerkenwell‬‬ ‫وتشكّل الدينة جسا ً يصل بي الوليات التحدة وآسيا وقد‬ ‫تكّن موقعها الجغراف من جذب الشكات التجارية الكبية عا ّمة‬ ‫وجعلها وجهة أساسيّة لتم ّرس الوضة العاليّي‪ .‬حتّى أ ّن تاريخ‬ ‫الدينة اضطلع بدور ف هذا الجال‪ .‬ويقول ‪“ :Holden‬عندما‬ ‫تزور لندن ل ب ّد لك أن تلحظ الختلف ف التصاميم والنتجات‬ ‫والديكورات والهندسة بدءا ً بالعمرة الجورجية‪ ،‬مرورا ً بحركة آرت‬ ‫ديكو الفنية ووصولً إل الهندسة الحديثة‪ .‬إ ّن فلورنسا اليطاليّة‬ ‫جميلة لك ّنها تعيش عص نهضة ل ينتهي‪”.‬‬ ‫وقد خلّف التاريخ الحديث بصمته ف لندن أيضاً‪ .‬وف العاصمة‬ ‫النكليزية نشأ مص ّممون مبدعون كث وبرزوا عل الساحة مثل‬ ‫‪ Terence Conran‬الذي أحدث ثورة ف عال الديكور والبيع‬ ‫وأسس ‪ Conran‬شكة‬ ‫بالتجزئة ف الستينيات والسبعينيات‪ّ .‬‬ ‫‪ Habitat‬للثاث التي تحتفل بعيدها الخمسي هذا العام فيم‬ ‫عكس كتابه ‪ Plain Simple Useful‬نظرياته العملية ف‬ ‫التصميم‪.‬‬ ‫وف الثمنينيات والتسعينيات لع نجم الصممي ‪Tom Dixon‬‬ ‫و ‪ Ron Arad‬و ‪ Ross Lovegrove‬الرائدين ف استخدام‬ ‫الواد فيهمضوية الصناعية الجديدة‪ ،‬فجذبت لندن نجوماً من‬ ‫حول العال اتّخذوها مقرا ً لهم بن فيها ‪ Marc Newson‬و‬ ‫‪.Zaha Hadi‬‬ ‫ولعل ج ّوا ً من التناقض يسود عل التصاميم اللندنية كم يُقال إنّه‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كل من‬ ‫يسود عل ساحة الوضة ف الدينة‪ .‬وعل سبيل الثال تعلّم ّ‬ ‫‪ Arad‬و‪ Dixon‬التصميم بنفسهم‪ .‬ويقول ‪ Dixon‬الذي ص ّمم‬ ‫مؤخرا ً مجموعة ملبس لعلمة ‪ Adidas‬التجارية‪“ :‬من الفضل‬ ‫لك ف معظم الوقات أل تلك معرفة واسعة وأل تعلم الكثي‬ ‫ش محاولة العمل كالخباء أو تقليد‬ ‫عن هذا الجال‪ .‬فهذا يقيك ّ‬ ‫تستهل عملك بحمسة طفل يستكشف ما‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ما ُص نع من قبل‪،‬بالتال‬ ‫حوله‪”.‬‬ ‫وعلّق ‪ Arad‬قائلً‪“ :‬ل أبرع ف اتّباع الرشادات وأحياناً‬ ‫أفلت من العقاب‪ ”.‬ث ّم تحدّث عن مه ّمة تصميم كرس تقض‬ ‫باستخدام غراءشفّاف لوصل طبقات الكوريان الرخامي بعضها‬ ‫ببعض‪ .‬إل أنّه اختار أن يل ّون الغراء ليبدو كطبقات من الفحم بي‬ ‫الصخور‪ .‬ول ّ‬ ‫شك ف أ ّن النتيجة كانت الحصول عل كرس أجمل‬ ‫يلفت النتباه أكث‪ .‬وف مه ّمة أخرى‪ ،‬ص ّمم دراجة هوائية ل تتألّف‬ ‫عجلتها من دواليب عاديّة إنّ ا من حلقات فولذ ونوابض‪ .‬وعندما‬ ‫ت ّم اعتبارها قطعة فنية وليس وسيلة نقل عمليّة‪ ،‬نش شيطاً مصورا ً‬ ‫لناس يركبون عليها ف شوارع لندن‪.‬‬ ‫وف الونة الخية‪ ،‬ظهر مص ّممون عل غرار ‪Thomas‬‬ ‫‪ Heatherwick‬و ‪ Barber Osgerby‬عل الساحة‪.‬‬ ‫وتعاونت شكة ‪ Yoo‬لتصميم ديكورات النازل الفتوحة‬ ‫الؤسسة عل يد ‪ John Hitchcox‬الذي اكتسب سمعة طيبة‬ ‫بالعمل مع شكة ‪ Manhattan Loft Company‬مع‬ ‫شباب موهوبي من بينهم ‪ Russell Sage‬و ‪Bethan Gray‬‬ ‫لطلق ‪ Yoo Home‬هذا الصيف‪ .‬وسيشكّل هذا الخي أكب‬ ‫متجر لعلمة تجارية واحدة ف داخل متجر ‪.Harrods‬‬ ‫كم أطلق مص ّمم النتجات الداخلية ‪ Lee Broom‬شكته‬ ‫لكل من يزور لندن‬ ‫الخاصة منذ ‪ 6‬أعوام وعلّق قائلً‪“ :‬ل ب ّد ّ‬ ‫تغيت ف العقد السابق‪ ،‬فقد‬ ‫بشكل متواصل أن يلحظ كيف ّ‬

‫تط ّورت‪ .‬وساعد وجود رئيس البلدية ف إقامة العارض واعتمد‬ ‫هندسة معمرية جديدة‪ ،‬مع أ ّن ذلك قد يبدو مثيا ً للجدل‪.‬‬ ‫وبسبب الركود ظهرت التاجر الؤقتة والعارض وأثبتت أنّها مه ّمة‬ ‫للمص ّممي الجدد‪”.‬‬ ‫أ ّما بالنسبة إل الصمم والفنان ‪ ،Rolf Sachs‬الذي انتقل إل‬ ‫لندن منذ ‪ 20‬عاماً فقد انتش تأثي ثقافة التصميم ليشمل كافّة‬ ‫أرجاء الدينة‪ .‬ويقول‪“ :‬يكننا أن نلمس انتشار هذا التأثي مع‬ ‫تنامي أهمية لندن عل ساحة الفن العاص‪ .‬هذا يعني أ ّن الناس‬ ‫باتوا يستوعبون الحاجة إل تصميم لفت – ل ف ما يُعرض للبيع‬ ‫فحسب‪ ،‬إنّ ا ف الحانات والطاعم والفنادق أيضاً‪ .‬وتشهد النافسة‬ ‫ف التصميم نوا ً ملحوظاً ف كافّة زوايا الدينة‪ .‬ول ّ‬ ‫شك ف أ ّن لندن‬ ‫كل من يبحث عن التصاميم الرائعة‪”.‬‬ ‫لن تخيّب أمل ّ‬ ‫‪،ajoto.com ،conran.com‬‬ ‫‪،tomdixon.net ،ronarad.co.uk‬‬ ‫‪،rosslovegrove.com ،marc-newson.com‬‬ ‫‪،zaha-hadid.com ،heatherwick.com‬‬ ‫‪،barberosgerby.com ،yoo.com‬‬ ‫‪،homebyyoo.com ،leebroom.com‬‬ ‫‪rolfsachs.com‬‬ ‫‪Bags For Life :64‬‬

‫حقائب مدى الحياة‬

‫شقّت ‪ Anya Hindmarch‬طريقها لتصبح من بي أفضل‬ ‫مص ّممي الكسسوارات ف لندن‪ ،‬وباتت ف يومنا هذا تص ّنع‬ ‫حقائب جميلة غالباً ما تكون فريدة ومبتكرة‪ .‬وها هي اليوم‬ ‫تتحدّث مع ‪ Frances Wasem‬عن الطريق الذي سلكته‬ ‫علمتها التجارية‪.‬‬ ‫قليلون هم عملقة عال الوضة الذين يتبّعون عرش إمباطورية‬ ‫بكل محبة‬ ‫أعملهم العالية من جهة ويزحون ويقدّمون النصائح ّ‬ ‫وصداقة ف الوقت عينه‪.‬‬ ‫إل أ ّن مص ّممة الكسسوارات ‪ Anya Hindmarch‬فريدة من‬ ‫نوعها‪ .‬تجمع بي سمت بريطانية جوهرية مختلفة‪ :‬إنّها بسيطة‬ ‫تحب لثيابها أن تصخ”)‪ ،‬وتنتقد نفسها‬ ‫(وبحسب قولها “ل ّ‬ ‫وتتميّز بشارة إبداعية وحيوية ل مثيل لها‪ .‬كم أنّها تك ّن للتصميم‬ ‫شغفاً كبيا ً‪ ،‬فهي تهت ّم كثيا ً بحرفية تصنيع أكسسواراتها‪ .‬وتقول‬ ‫‪ Hindmarch‬التي دخلت عال الوضة منذ ‪ 26‬عاماً‪“ :‬لو‬ ‫عثتَ عل الحرف الناسب لجعل الحقيبة تغ ّني”‪.‬‬ ‫هي إيديولوجية جعلت الحقائب التي تص ّممها مرغوبة – ففي عال‬ ‫الوضة تكث الحقائب وتتزاحم لضمن مكانها عل ّ‬ ‫الرف وقد ظلّت‬ ‫الحقائب العصية برموزها الصارخة مهيمنة عل الساحة لفتة‬ ‫طويلة‪ .‬وتقول ‪ Hindmarch‬التي تص ّمم الحقائب ف مشغل‬ ‫خاص بها يغطّي القرميد جدرانه ويقع ف قلب ‪Bermondsey‬‬ ‫ف لندن‪“ :‬لست مهووسة بالعلمات التجارية‪ ،‬إنّ ا أعتب نفس‬ ‫مهووسة بالحرفة‪ ”.‬وبسبب هذا الهوس تو ّجهت ‪Hindmarch‬‬ ‫إل إيطاليا حيث باتت ت ُص ّنع معظم حقائبها‪ .‬وهي تول التفاصيل‬ ‫الدقيقة انتباهاً كبيا ً‪ .‬ويحتاج الحرفيون إل يوم كامل لتصنيع حقيبة‬ ‫حسب الطلب‪ .‬فتض ّم الخية جيباً مخصصاً للجوال والقلم‪ .‬وتلجأ‬ ‫‪ Hindmarch‬ف صناعة الحقائب إل الجلد الناعم وتلبّسها‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫التعديلت عل العطف لغراض عسكرية فأضيفت كتفيّتان تُعلّق‬ ‫بهم الشارات العسكرية ووفقاً لفولكور الزياء ُعلّقت الغراض‬ ‫العسكرية عل مشبك الحزام الذي يأخذ شكل حرف ‪.D‬‬ ‫ويُع ّد معطف ‪ Burberry‬فريدا ً من نوعه بفضل النسيج‬ ‫البتكاري الص ّنع منه‪ .‬إذ اختع ‪ Thomas Burberry‬قمش‬ ‫الغبدين التي الذي استُخدم تقليدياً لصناعة هذا العطف‪ .‬وقبل‬ ‫ظهور قمش الغبدين لجأ الناس إل تغطية معاطفهم بالطاط أو‬ ‫الشمع بهدف الوقاية من الياه إل أ ّن هذه العمليّة أثقلت العاطف‬ ‫التي أمست غي مريحة‪ .‬لكن‪ ،‬وعب زيادة الكثافة والخيوط‪ ،‬ابتكرت‬ ‫دار ‪ Burberry‬قمشاً يؤ ّمن التهوئة ويكون ف الوقت عينه‬ ‫سب الياه‪ ،‬ليسلك تصميم العاطف بذلك‬ ‫متيناً يحول دون ت ّ‬ ‫مسارا ً جديدا ً‪.‬‬ ‫بالضافة إل وقاية أجيال من البيطانيي من الطر‪ ،‬حمى العطف‬ ‫عاملي ماهرين كث من البطالة‪ .‬إذ تُصنع معاطف ‪ Burberry‬ف‬ ‫‪ Castleford‬شمل انكلتا عل يد حرفيي يزجون بي الهارات‬ ‫التقليدية والتكنولوجيا الحديثة‪ .‬ويُص ّنع قمش الغبدين هنا‬ ‫ويُفحص بالعي الج ّردة للتأكّد أ ّن ل شائبة تشوبه‪ .‬فتتطلّب صناعة‬ ‫معطف واحد ثلثة أسابيع وأكث من مئة خطوة يفتض اللتزام بها‪.‬‬ ‫أ ّما قبّة العطف فمعقّدة للغاية وعل الحرفيي أن يخضعوا لتدريب‬ ‫طوال عام كامل ليتعلّموا طريقة خياطة هذه القطعة فيضمنوا‬ ‫بكل سلسة ونعومة‪ .‬ويُقطع القمش ويُخاط يدوياً‬ ‫تغطيتها الرقبة ّ‬ ‫تتغي الثنية‬ ‫لصناعة ثنية الظهر وتفاصيل الكمم والحزام‪ .‬ول ّ‬ ‫تتوسط ظهر العطف لتضمن‬ ‫السائدة ف أيّام ركوب الخيل التي ّ‬ ‫سهولة التحرك والتهوئة‪.‬‬ ‫سواء وقع اختياركم عل العطف الكلسيك بلون الكاراميل وبطانة‬ ‫‪ Burberry‬الشهية التي يسهل التع ّرف إليها أم عل اللون‬ ‫العدن منه‪ ،‬فعندما ترتدون معطف ‪ Burberry‬اعلموا أنّكم‬ ‫ترتدون قطع ُة من التاريخ البيطان والخبة الحرفية‪.‬‬ ‫‪burberry.com‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية‬ ‫‪In Focus: The Burberry Trench Coat :52‬‬

‫تحت الجهر‪ :‬معطف ‪Burberry‬‬

‫يُعتب معطف ‪ Burberry‬العطف البيطان الكلسيك وبحسب‬ ‫‪ Stephen Doig‬إنّه ثروة وطنية‪.‬‬ ‫قليلة هي الثياب التي تتاز بطابعها البيطان كمعطف دار‬ ‫كل من يرتديه قطرات الطر‬ ‫‪ Burberry‬الجميل الذي يقي ّ‬ ‫بكل أناقة إل‬ ‫النهمرة ف شتاءلندن عند وصوله أو وصولها ّ‬ ‫شارع ‪ .Regent Street‬وقد بات هذا العطف الكلسيك‬ ‫يشكّل جزءا ً من نسيج التاريخ والثقافة البيطانيَي فاضطلع‬ ‫بدور ف أعظم لحظات البلد وأه ّمها ودعم الصناعة البيطانية‬ ‫التي تساهم ف الحفاظ عل الجتمعات‪ .‬ظهرت تصاميم وأشكال‬ ‫مختلفة للمعطف ف عهد الدير البداعي الحال لدار ‪Burberry‬‬ ‫‪ – Christopher Bailey‬من العطف الخصور والش ّمر‬ ‫مع الخرز والحشو والصنوع من القمش الرقيق والرقّط ببقع‬ ‫الطلء – إل أنّه حافظ عل مكانته كقطعة ثياب كلسيكية لكث‬ ‫من مئة عام‪.‬‬ ‫ساهم هذا العطف ف حمية شخصيّات تاريخية مه ّمة من الطر‬ ‫ومن بينها ‪ Humphrey Bogart‬و‪Winston Churchill‬‬ ‫و ‪ Audrey Hepburn‬وأمية وايلز الراحلة ‪Diana‬‬ ‫فاستحال جزءا ً ل يتج ّزأ من تاريخ ‪ Burberry‬وبريطانيا ف عال‬ ‫الوضة‪ .‬ففي العام ‪ 1856‬باش التد ّرب ف الخياطة ‪Thomas‬‬ ‫‪ Burberry‬العمل لطلق دار تصميم ملبس ف الهواء الطلق‬ ‫وسعان ما شاعت الثيات التي ص ّممها بي أفراد الجيش لغراض‬ ‫عسكرية‪ .‬وف العام ‪ 1912‬حصلت دار ‪ Burberry‬عل براءة‬ ‫اختاع معطف طويل يُس ّمى ‪ Tielocken‬وبات يُعرف لحقاً‬ ‫بتسمية ‪ trench coat‬ت ّم تصميمه لحمية ضباط الجيش‬ ‫والبحرية من طقس بريطانيا القاس‪ .‬ول ّ‬ ‫ينفك الضباط يرتدون‬ ‫هذه العاطف حتى خارج دوام الخدمة‪ .‬كم ت ّم إضفاء بعض‬

‫‪Top Of The World :58‬‬

‫عل ق ّمة العال‬

‫‪،‬‬

‫تساهم ساحة لندن البداعية الزدهرة – بنجومها البارعي‬ ‫ومبدعيها العاصين اللمعي ومواهبها الصاعدة – ف ترسيخ مكانة‬ ‫الدينة كعاصمة التصميم العالية‪ .‬وها هو ‪ Josh Sims‬يتحدّث‬ ‫عن زبدة الص ّممي ف لندن‪.‬‬ ‫عندما أنهى الصمم ‪ Chris Holden‬دراسته ف شمل شق‬ ‫الملكة التحدة‪ ،‬كان عل يقي بضورة ذهابه إل مكان معي‬ ‫واحد ليطلق مع شيكه شكة ‪ Ajoto‬للكسسوارات الحديثة‪.‬‬ ‫وقال “هي لندن؛ نحن نص ّنع النتجات ف كافّة أطياف الملكة‬ ‫ضوري‪ .‬فقد باتت العاصمة‬ ‫التّحدة إل أ ّن وجودنا ف لندن‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اليوم صالة عرض عالية‪ .‬لذلك ل مكان فيها للتصاميم الرديئة‪.‬‬ ‫وتتميّز بناخ التنافسية الذي يسيطرعليها‪”.‬‬ ‫ف الواقع‪ ،‬أعلن ناقد تصاميم ف مقال له ف صحيفة ‪The New‬‬ ‫‪ York Times‬منذ عا َمي أ ّن لندن قد تف ّوقت عل مدينة‬ ‫العالي‪ .‬وقدّم‬ ‫البداعي‬ ‫نيويورك وحلّت مكانها لتصبح الركز‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الناقد حججاً قويّة مستندا ً إل مدارس الف ّن والتصميم الرموقة ف‬ ‫لندن وسمعة عروض تصاميمها الطيبة التي باتت اليوم عاليّة –‬

118 | P RO D U C T S

Souvenir

DOUBLE STYLE FROM VB In the past six years, British designer Victoria Beckham has established her brand as the ultimate go-to for understatedly luxurious style. This reworking of her classic tote in vibrant red will instantly update any wardrobe. Handmade in Italy from the highest quality calfskin, the design features artisanal detailing and minimalist gold hardware on the signature handles. This intelligent bag has not one, but two elegant silhouettes available. Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100

The expandable sides make it an ideal carry-on bag, with plenty of room for your frst-class fying essentials. A discreet interior clip allows the sides to be brought in, creating a stylish second look once you arrive at your destination. Combine it with a tailored little black dress and red lipstick for the ultimate in ladylike style, or switch it up with a tailored masculine coat for a directional look. ib Victoria Beckham Victoria bag, ÂŁ1,500, Victoria Beckham, 36 Dover Street, London W1S 4NH, +44 (0)20 7501 1122, victoriabeckham.com * for map go to page 87

Fashion heaven in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most fashionable street.

Discover your Perfect Gift from ÂŁ49