BELGIUM | 比利时 | БЕЛЬГИЯ |
بلجيكا
EXPLORE BELGIUM: discover the most stylish shops of this vibrant country with our insiders’ guide
Have a look at the biggest department store in Belgium ! Galeria Inno, more than 850 brands under one roof : women’s, men’s and children’s clothing, gifts, home products, accessories, etc. Galeria Inno Brussels - rue Neuve 111 - 1000 Brussels Galeria Inno Louise - avenue Louise 12 - 1050 Brussels Galeria Inno Antwerpen - Meir 80-82 - 2000 Antwerpen Galeria Inno Gent - Veldstraat 86 - 9000 Gent Galeria Inno Brugge - Steenstraat 11 - 8000 Brugge And in all major cities...
So many styles!
s d n a r b y n a m o S So inno !
Since 1897, Galeria Inno, the only department store in Belgium, has constantly reinvented itself to keep up with the latest trends. This way, it ensures the ongoing development of its unique concept of a store dedicated to brands. A whopping 850 brands, including major Belgian and international names synonymous with quality, choice and innovation. PrĂŞt-Ă -porter, perfumery, jewellery, leather goods, designer household goods and lots more... Each department at Galeria Inno promises you an exceptional shopping experience !
So many styles !
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SHOP TAX FREE
EDITOR’S LETTER Essential Info For the very latest information, scan the QR code on this page to head straight to our website, globalblue.com, and find everything you need to navigate the best shopping destinations on earth.
Let us help you discover the very best of this dynamic country. Belgium has much to offer, and many brands are available online, so visitors can still enjoy the safest luxury shopping experience. There has never been a better time to invest in a thoughtful gift, whether for yourself or for your loved ones, to send a smile when it’s most needed. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 16% when shopping in Belgium. We have over a decade’s experience of publishing guides to the most prestigious destinations across the globe. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top brands you’ll find in Belgium. Discover the best shopping destinations in the country with Global Blue. @环球蓝联-Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 @shopmagazine_ @GlobalBlueGroup
SALLY McILHONE
ILLUSTRATION: PETRA ERIKSSON
Welcome to Belgium
For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the SHOP TAX FREE app – calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.
13 heures, 12 minutes et 46 secondes. Hall of Time. Make every moment a masterpiece.
Baume & Mercier Blancpain Breguet Breitling Cartier Chanel Hermès Hublot IWC Schaffhausen Jaeger-LeCoultre Qlocktwo Rolex SwissKubik TAG Heuer Tudor
Hall of Time Avenue Louise 75R 1050 Brussels info@halloftime.be + 32 2 539 34 50 Hall of Time Brussels
hall_of_time
Boutique Rolex by Hall of Time Boulevard de Waterloo 55 1000 Brussels rolex.boutique@halloftime.be + 32 2 512 58 11 Boutique Rolex Brussels boutique_rolex_brussels
CONTRIBUTORS
JOSH SIMS Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims contributes to a wide range of publications including Wallpaper, Esquire and Robb Report. His latest book is Retro Watches, published spring 2020.
GIORDANO POLONI Giordano Poloni created the cover illustration for this season’s SHOP Belgium. His elegant style is strikingly showcased in this image of an art gallery in which Belgium’s famous landmarks are displayed in paintings. Giordano’s other clients include HSBC, Vice magazine and New Scientist. Discover SHOP Belgium and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.
ILLUSTRATION: GIORDANO POLONI
KIRSTY WELSH Kirsty Welsh has more than 15 years’ experience in fashion journalism, and has contributed to Elle UK and the Sunday Telegraph. She can frequently be found browsing Parisian fashion boutiques for herself and her daughter Clementine Lilac, and seeking out new foodie haunts.
BRUSSELS | Waterloolaan 9 | Tel. +32 25025948 ANTWERP | Huidevettersstraat 10 | Tel. +32 32310629 BRUGES
| Sint-Amandsstraat 46 | Tel. +32 50426893
ShOp FLOOr E D I TO r I A L
pUBLIShING
Head of Editorial Sally McIlhone
Publisher James Morris
Cover illustrator Giordano Poloni
Senior designer Adam Pietrzyk
G LO B A L B L U E B E LG I U M
Contributors Josh Sims, Kirsty Welsh
Midweight designers Paulina Rasińska, Karolina Żak
Production editor Farrah Moore
Junior designers Tatjiana Antoniou, Anna Nowakowska, Łukasz Owczarek
Managing director Benelux Jorn Hoogesteijn Key account manager and marketing Irene Schermer Customer relations Mila Kurum, Caitlin Notebaert, Arpine Okmez Key account manager Jennifer de Vos Sales manager Benelux Kim Joostens Account manager Jan Keymis, Niels Leunens
Senior fashion editor Lucinda Turner Senior news editor Ginger Rose Clark
Studio production coordinators Iza Kuczyńska, Marek Oświecimski
Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Myers, Harriet O’Brien
Print Walstead Krakow
Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editor Mónica R Goya
Chinese editor Yuan Fang
Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb
Russian editor Gary Ramazanov
Global Blue Belgium, Excelsiorlaan 33, 1930 Zaventem Belgium
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern Published by Rhapsody Media Group headquarters 109-123 Clifton Street, London EC2A 4LD, +44 (0)20 7729 1000, rhapsodymedia.com enquiries@rhapsodymedia.com
Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Printed by Walstead group Group headquarters 22 Westside Centre, London Road, Colchester, Essex CO3 8PH, walstead-group.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Rhapsody Media for Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2020 Global Blue
R.P.: Eva Van Elst, Jean Monnetlaan 1, 1804 Vilvoorde. www.c-a.com
Find your nearest store on c-a.com
CONTENTS CHECK OUT 16
BELGIUM GUIDE 31
SHOP selects a standout piece from Belgium this season
Maps and guides to Belgium’s top shops and destinations
PRODUCTS 18
HOW TO SHOP TAX FREE 47
Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
SHOP WINDOW 22 Don’t miss Chanel’s new fragrance boutique in Antwerp’s De Wilde Zee shopping area
NEWS 24 Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
FEATURE 26 QUALITY TIME A growing band of inventive Belgian labels is creating new horological looks. Josh Sims reveals the names to know
Above: a watch from Raidillon's latest collection
The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
TRANSLATIONS 48 中文翻译 50 Русский Перевод 57 ة ّيبرعلا ةغ ّللاب ةمجرت SOUVENIR 58 The essential item to bring home
4005_NL_LOUISE54SHOPAD_190813
CH EC K O U T
Make It Modern
Established in 1829, Delvaux is one of the oldest luxury goods companies in the world, but that doesn’t mean the brand takes its prestigious name and timeless designs for granted. The house is credited with inventing the modern handbag, having filed the first-ever patent for one in 1908, yet for its spring/summer 2020 collection, Delvaux looked firmly to the future. The worlds of graffiti and street art were fused with fashion’s current obsession with neon colours for its reimagined Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47
classic Cool Box bag (pictured) as well as its iconic Brillant and Tempête designs. The Cool Box Mini Graffiti in stark optic white presents a fresh take on Delvaux’s flawless craftsmanship and offers a perfect, contemporary way to incorporate the brand into your wardrobe this season. LT Delvaux Cool Box bag, €2,400, Delvaux, Komedieplaats 17, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 0247, delvaux.com H
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 41
VISIT US ONLINE... • Visit globalblue.com for the latest luxury shopping and travel stories, updated daily • 访 问我们上线的网站 globalblue.cn, 了解最新奢华购物旅游
ENGLISH | 中文
FOLLOW US AT... @环球蓝联- Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联
18 | P R O D U C T S
New Neutrals Mix tailored shorts with a timeless trench and modern accessories for a perfect springtime look
PRaDa eaRRingS, €380, prada, 38 boulevard de WaTerloo, 1000 brussels, +32 (0)2 503 0544, prada.Com
ClOSeD belT, €199, Closed, naTionalesTraaT 27, 2000 anTWerp, +32 (0)3 231 1811, Closed.Com
filiPPa K TOP, €80, filippa K, sTeenhouWersvesT 65, 2000 anTWerp, +32 (0)3 232 8818, filippa-K.Com
lOngChaMP ShOeS, €390, longChamp, 5 avenue louise, 1050 brussels, +32 (0)2 543 0260, longChamp.Com
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47
bRUnellO CUCinelli ShORTS, €2,280, brunello CuCinelli, 13 boulevard de WaTerloo, 1000 brussels, +32 (0)2 513 7802, brunelloCuCinelli.Com
P R O D U C T S | 19
Tiffany Ring, €2,950, Tiffany & Co, 66 boulevard de WaTerloo, 1000 brussels, +32 (0)2 501 6633, Tiffany.Com
PHOTOS: (SunglaSSeS) © anTOniO Barrella, STudiO OrizzOnTe; (ring) © T|Tiffany & CO. STudiO
Celine by heDi SliMane neCKlaCe, €490, Celine, maria-Theresialei 17-19, 2018 anTWerp, +32 (0)3 225 0032, Celine.Com
Max MaRa COaT, €719, max mara, noordzandsTraaT 74, 8000 bruges, +32 (0)50 341444, maxmara.Com
bUlgaRi SUnglaSSeS, €325, bulgari, 36 boulevard de WaTerloo, 1000 brussels, +32 (0)2 511 6701, bulgari.Com
globalblue.com
lOUiS VUiTTOn bag, €2,280, louis vuiTTon, 56-60 boulevard de WaTerloo, 1000 brussels, +32 (0)2 289 2828, louisvuiTTon.Com
20 | P R O D U C T S
Sherbert Suiting Shun dull colours this season and opt for a vibrant yellow suit with minimal white extras
COS Bag, €195, cos, noordzandstraat 63, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 753480, cosstores.com BOSS jaCkeT, €399, Boss, Huidevettersstraat 45, 2000 antwerp, +32 (0)3 233 6605, HugoBoss.com
CaRTieR waTCh, €13,100, cartier, 54 Boulevard de waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 537 5161, cartier.com
TOD’S TRaineRS, €540, tod’s, 46 Boulevard de waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 3005, tods.com
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47
PHOTO: (waTcH) VincenT wulVeryck © carTier
BOSS TROUSeRS, €229, Boss, Huidevettersstraat 45, 2000 antwerp, +32 (0)3 233 6605, HugoBoss.com
B o u l e var d
de W at er lo o
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B r u x e l l e s
Shop WindoW
on the scent Chanel recently opened its first dedicated fragrance boutique in Belgium. Located in Antwerp’s De Wilde Zee shopping area, the store offers fragrances for women and men, make-up, skincare, beauty accessories and sunglasses. Here you can shop a wide range of scents, from classic Chanel Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47
No 5 perfume to Les Exclusifs de Chanel, the brand’s fragrances made from rare ingredients. GRC Chanel Beauty, Korte Gasthuisstraat 20-22, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)470 989757, chanel.com H
foR MAP Go to PAGe 41
MENTION
‘HOTEL PARFUMA’ AND RECEIVE
A SPECIAL SOUVENIR PARFUMA.COM
With international brands such as Tom Ford and Jo Malone London we offer you an exclusive range of beauty products, unique in Antwerp. Visit Parfuma at Eiermarkt 31, next to the Groenplaats in the city center. ACQUA DI PARMA | BY KILLIAN | ARMANI BEAUTY | ARMANI PRIVÉ | BOBBI BROWN | BYREDO | ENVIRON | FREDERIC MALLE | JANE IREDALE | JO MALONE LONDON | JULIETTE HAS A GUN | LA MER | NARS | MONTALE | MOLTON BROWN | ORIGINS | SERGE LUTENS | TOM FORD BEAUTY | COMFORT ZONE
PARFUMA - Eiermarkt 31, 2000 Antwerpen WIJNEGEM - Shopping Center, 2110 Antwerpen SHOP ONLINE parfuma.com | +32 3 232 46 11 | tax free
24 | N E W S
Best case Kipling has unveiled new hard-sided luggage with the introduction of polycarbonate trolleys for spring/summer 2020. Polycarbonate is a lightweight but durable material that is perfect for suitcases. The brand’s newly released cabin-sized cases are water resistant, equipped with a TSA-approved luggage lock and lined with fabric featuring a map of Antwerp, Kipling’s hometown. Choose from yellow, red, blue or grey. GRC Kipling, Geldmuntstraat 41, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 347740, kipling.com H for map go to page 46
in character In 2020, Woolrich celebrates its 190th anniversary. As a result the brand focuses on its DNA in its latest collection and emphasises garments with a purpose: trans-seasonal coats, waterproof items and multi-layered windbreakers are some of the key styles for spring/summer, along with a new take on Woolrich’s signature parka. The collection makes use of ecofriendly fabrics, showing how the brand is here to stay as it moves forward with the times. GRC Woolrich, Schuttershofstraat 39, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 808 0256, woolrich.eu H for map go to page 41
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47
S H O P | 25
sustainaBle style This season Lee unveils its Back to Nature capsule collection of fully biodegradable pieces. Made from ecru linen-cotton, and with buttons that can be unscrewed for re-use, the rivetless garments can be thrown into the compost once they are no longer needed. The pioneering range consists of a Rider jacket and Rider jeans for men, while the designs for women comprise a longer, belted take on the Rider jacket and a pair of wideleg jeans (pictured, €99.95). GRC Lee, Kammenstraat 32, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 213 2740, lee.com H for map go to page 40
hi from hawaii This season, Scotch & Soda presents a capsule collection inspired by textile artist John ‘Keoni’ Meigs, who was known for his Hawaiian shirt designs. Scotch & Soda has created a special print which features across swimwear, a bucket hat, a unisex short-sleeve silk shirt and more. Inject a dose of fun into your summer attire with the Keoni collection. GRC Scotch & Soda, 37 rue Antoine Dansaert, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 616 1983, scotch-soda.com H for map go to page 36
globalblue.com
48
Above: Gavox Roads watch 57
50
Quality Time From state-of-the-art watches for pilots to timepieces in bold modern styles, a growing band of inventive Belgian labels is creating new horological looks. Josh Sims reveals the names to know
I
n 2011 Michael Happe, an agricultural engineer, was looking for a change of direction. The result was the launch of Gavox, his watch brand, which specialises in tough sports styles. It found quick success, winning serious credibility by supplying squadrons of the national air force, Osprey pilots in the United States Air Force, and the Romanian air force. But what is perhaps more surprising is Gavox’s country of origin: Belgium. ‘The internet has allowed the watch world to see an explosion in micro-brands,’ explains Happe. ‘People are used to the idea of watches from Germany and, of course, Switzerland. But they tend to be amazed that Belgium has its
own watch brands, too. Yet for many people, being a small, local brand that’s able to give a personal touch is more important than the Made in Switzerland tag. I reckon Belgium has gone from just a few to more than 30 watch brands over the last decade.’ Belgium has some historic watchmakers, most notably Lebeau-Courally, established in 1865. What distinguishes the Belgian timepiece brands that have launched since then is their pursuit of aesthetic distinction. There’s Raidillon, with its limited-edition take on the bullhead chronograph, designed, as the brand puts it, ‘for the gentleman driver’. There’s the more minimalist Venneman and
there’s the fun range from IceWatch. There’s Méraud, there’s RSC and there’s Twistiti, a vibrant brand which specialises in watches for children. Roland Baptiste, a master engraver who runs family firm RBaptiste, launched his first watch around a decade ago. He points out that none of the Belgian watchmakers is a huge brand such as Rolex or Patek Philippe, adding that the Belgian companies don’t have such marketing might. ‘So each of their watches has to have a point of difference; they’re products that have to be appreciated in themselves,’ he explains. His ornate pieces are made in Belgium, using Swiss movements, and each takes a week to engrave. ‘There’s no room to make a mistake,’ Baptiste says. ‘You really don’t want to have to start again.’ RBaptiste’s first watch, the Royal, is an unusual hands-free model, and its subsequent watches are classical in style. Yet most of the Belgian new-wave watch brands
have a modern look. Standout watches by Komono, for example, include the new Lewis line with printed straps; the Mono range, each entirely in one colour; and the Nato collection with nylon straps. The brand was established in 2009 to fill a gap in the market for bold fashion watches at accessible prices of less than €100. It’s not easy to set up a watch brand, says Komono’s Wouter De Mets. ‘When we first went to see a factory in China there was a big grass field and a man telling us the factory was coming. Now we’re established we’re trying to communicate that in design terms we’re a Belgian brand ‒ especially given Belgium’s association with avant-garde fashion and the likes of Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten.’ Many of Belgium’s young timepiece labels are driven less by watch creators than by multidisciplinary product designers. Benoît Mintiens of Ressence, for example, has also designed prams,
Above (from left): a watch from Raidillon’s latest collection; Tamawa’s watches use phenolic resin supplied by the Belgian snooker ball manufacturer Saluc
S H O P | 29
vacuum cleaners and train and aircraft interiors. It’s small wonder that Ressence has pioneered a system of orbiting discs for time display, as well as a means of setting its watches without an obvious crown. With a price range starting at €14,000 and moving sharply upwards, it offers Belgium’s most high-end horological output. Industrial designers ‘start inside the user’s brain’, says Mintiens. With a timepiece, they consider ‘who’s going to wear this watch and what should it do for them. It’s about the user’s experience. For me the movement is the last thing.’ Hubert Verstraeten, the founder of Tamawa, is also a product designer, and formerly worked for Ventura, maker of groundbreaking digital watches. He has built his brand of watches, jewellery and lighting around the clever use of an unexpected material, phenolic resin, supplied by Belgian snooker ball manufacturer Saluc. ‘I’ve always liked playing with materials and this has obvious benefits ‒ it’s visually strong and very hardwearing, such that a 10-year-old
watch still looks new,’ he says. ‘The question was how to integrate a movement into this material so that the watch was waterproof, had a crown mechanism and the like. But we did it.’ Tamawa’s timepieces have been sold by the likes of London’s Victoria and Albert Museum and New York’s Museum of Modern Art. None of the watches is branded, says Verstraeten, since ‘this isn’t the kind of watch that will get a real watch freak excited. It’s not about the movement, but the idea and the look. In a very crowded market, there is no point in making a watch that looks like any other watch.’ Not that it’s impossible to create a watch company that expresses your own interests as well as doing something fresh. Gavox’s Michael Happe admits he makes pilot’s watches because he is obsessed by aircraft. When he supplies air force pilots with watches, he sets just one condition. ‘I deliver the watches to the base in person,’ he says. ‘It means I get to spend a lot of time around amazing planes’
BELGIUM GUIDE
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Belgium with a look at the country’s must-visit destinations, from a Brussels boutique with inspiring links with Ethiopia to Brabo Fountain and the Guildhalls of Sint-Joris in Antwerp (pictured). Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/belgium.
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SWAROVSKI Austrian brand Swarovski is known the world over for its crystal figurines and trend-led jewellery collections. For spring/summer 2020 the brand’s aim is to spark delight, and the various launches planned for the new season are sure to do this. The Shell collection offers stunning statement jewellery, with nautilus and cowrie motifs used in earrings, necklaces and bangles as well as stacking charm rings. For summer, the Tropical collection will most certainly catch your eye. Combining parrots, crystal-studded palm leaves and green stones the colour of jungle foliage, these pieces are sure to look great on the beach or at the bar with a summer dress and a golden tan. SM
Swarovski, 47 rue Neuve, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 201 5526, swarovski.com
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AKASO The story of the Akaso label is an inspiring one. Founder Philippe Vertriest collaborates with the Kara tribe in Ethiopia to create the prints in the collection. The Kara people are known for their elaborate body art, and Vertriest pays members of the tribe as freelance designers for its clothing. The Kara people then invest these
proceeds into sustainable projects that improve the quality of life for them. Sustainability is a key concern for the brand. It aims to produce items that make a minimal impact on the environment and stand the test of time. SM Akaso, 1 Galerie du Roi, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 2007, akaso.eu
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Place Of Interest
Café
Restaurant
Featured In This Issue
Where fans of luxury perfume, skincare and make-up buy tax free.
YOUR FAVORITE BRANDS LESS EXPENSIVE IN BELGIUM
5
€
*
OFF YOUR PURCHASE OF €25 OR MORE Valid from 01 April until 30 September 2020 in store and on our eshop
ESHOP CODE GLOBALBLUE
*Must present coupon at time of purchase. Not cumulative with other promotions or reductions. Not valid on the brands Bobbi Brown, Boucheron Collection, Chanel, Jo Malone, Les Exclusifs Guerlain, Les Exclusifs Hermes, Tom Ford and Van Cleef Collections Extraordinaire. Not valid on the purchase of Giftcards, nor beauty salon treatments. 1 coupon per client. Can not be exchanged for cash. R.P.: Planet Parfum, Lenniksebaan 551 - 1070 Brussels.
www.planetparfum.com
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36 | G U I D E
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38 | G U I D E
ANTWERP KE M PENSTR A AT
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Place Of Interest
Hotel
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Tourist Information
d
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GODEFRIDUSK A AI
S TR A AT
S H O P | 39
THE KOOPLES French fashion label the Kooples is known for its use of real couples in its advertising and for creating rock chic-inspired clothing for men and women. Grown-up band boys will enjoy the black leather lace-up ankle boots or sleek black and white trainers from the latest collection. Build your look from the feet up with slim-fit trousers and a printed short-sleeve shirt, or for more casual days opt for comfortable joggers and a crew-neck top with a parka coat. Look out for the dapper suiting options that feature edgy embellishments, such as neck scarves and chain details. SM
The Kooples, 10 Hopland, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 475 1990, thekooples.com H
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 41
BERNADETTE Ultra-feminine brand Bernadette is run by mother and daughter duo Bernadette and Charlotte de Geyter, who believe that modern luxury clothing shouldn’t revolve around age. The Belgium label is renowned for its easy-to-wear pieces that are ideal for layering. Expect a variety of designs adorned with beautiful, botanical hand-drawn prints in a vivid colour palette. The brand’s silk dresses are favourites with the street-style crowd, especially during fashion weeks. Wear one casually with white sneakers and a blazer for a daytime look, or get evening-ready, teaming one with a pair of heels and oversized gold jewellery. KW globalblue.com
Renaissance, Nationalestraat 32, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 233 9390, bernadetteantwerp.com H
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 40
40 | G U I D E
LO M
AA T
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AL
ION
N AT
● GOUDLAND
STR
ALE
ION
● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ● IRO
HOGAN ● IITTALA ● NICO TAEYMANS ● CAVALLARO NAPOLI ● SUPERTRASH ● STATE OF ART ● DELBÔVE ●
DE ES E YV U ● GIG ●
LO
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● SCAPA WORLD ● ERIC BOMPARD
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KO M E
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Non-Global Blue Retailer
● POMELLATO ● MALIPARMI
RUE BLANCHE ● RIMOWA ● AMBIORIX ●
VE T
MUSEUM MAYER VAN DEN BERGH
KO M E D I
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● VERSO
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Global Blue Retailer
● NEUHAUS
LONGCHAMP ● POLO RALPH LAUREN ● LOUIS VUITTON ● XANDRES X-LINE ●
● ICI PARIS XL ● OXFORD
GE
A.S. ADVENTURE ● BOGNER ● MARC CAIN ● BOGGI MILANO ● PRINCESS ● RENAISSANCE ●
JODENSTRAAT ● RIVER WOODS ● HUGO BOSS
IR
● SUPERDRY ● PIERRE MARCOLINI ● RITUALS ● & OTHER STORIES ● JUST A SHOE ● MARC O' POLO ● NOUKIE'S ● BOBBI BROWN
L
● FORNARINA TARTINE ET CHOCOLAT ● WOLFORD ● PATRIZIA PEPE ●
● CLAUDIA STRÄTER ● GERRY WEBER ● MARINA RINALDI ● ARKET ● ZARA
ATELIER REBULL ● ROCHER ● CKS ● COS ●
ME
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NARA CAMICIE ● PRINCESS BLUE ● ● PRINCESS SPACE ● LILITH ● MAC BEOSTORE ●
● GRAND OPTICAL M E I R ● UNICA VERA ● UN JOUR AILLEURS ● MINELLI ● XANDRES ● MAX MARA ● CNB ● LACOSTE
H U I D E V E T T E R S S T R A AT
BANANA MOON ● MICHAEL KORS ●
RA
Komedieplaats & Korte Gasthuisstraat
BIJORCA ● PETIT BATEAU ● CAROLINE BISS ●
ST
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Huidevettersstr. & Lange Gasthuisstraat
SAMSONITE ● G-STAR RAW ● MAYERLINE ● MASSIMO DUTTI ●
EN
FRAGILE ●
● HONEST BY
FLORIS VAN BOMMEL ●
TIMBERLAND ● PEPE JEANS ●
MM
● TODAY IS A GOOD DAY ● ACCESS ● OSKA ● LILA GRACE
● FITTZ ● LEVI’S ● ADIDAS ● ANN ZELIEN ● VANS ESSENTIEL OUTLET ● ● RINGS & THINGZ VIER ●
KA
● ANINE BING
BITTE KAI RAND ● HADHI ● LC FOOTWEAR ●
LEE ● WEEKDAY ●
P.25
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● MARLIES DEKKERS
DAVID MAYER ● GARDE-ROBE NATIONALE ●
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● KIEHL'S
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NEW PARIS ● LONDRES
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● COTÉLAC
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SIN
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● APC
P.39
● SCOTCH & SODA
WOUTERS & HENDRIX ● MORRISON ● FREDDY ● PANT ROOM HILDE VAN BELLEGHEM ● ● TOOS FRANKEN NOT THE SAME ● ● CLOSED RENAISSANCE ● ● MISS M
● AF VANDEVORST
● HUIS A BOON
● CLIO GOLDBRENNER SS TT EE E NN HH O
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SACHA ● MONAR ● COSI COSI ● YOSHO ● ESSENTIEL ANTWERP ●
DRIES VAN NOTEN ●
KID ●
STEP BY STEP ●
Lombardevest FRESH ●
ER
Nationalestraat
Featured In This Issue
PD
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● ME PHI STO ● PAL ZIL ERI
CO STO CKX & ● MA RCO
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● TENSEN
● TWIN SET ● ANN FONTAIN E ● INVERT ● DONCEE L JUWELEN ● ESSENTI EL ANTWER P ● MON PLUS BEAU SOUVEN IR ● ILSE DE KEULENA ER ● CÉCIL CHAUSS URES T 13 LES ● ● CLEO ● GRAAN MARK HOMME S ● SLAETS ● ZAPA ● TERRE BLEU ● SCAPA ● FALKE ● MARITHÉ FRANÇO IS GIRBAUD EPL A KO M E D I ● BRILLEN MARKT / LENSON LINE ● AMERICA N VINTAGE ● PHILIPP PLEIN ● TUMI ● CHANEL P.22 ● DELVAUX P.16 ● STONE ISLAND
● RIVER WOODS
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P.39
SELECTED SHOPS IN STADSFEESTZAAL:
● SANDRO ● THE KOOPLES
Stadsfeestzaal
●
SED ON A ●
STE FAN EL
● L'OCCITANE URBAN ERN OIS ● ● OUTFITTERS DEV NIC KY ● C&A VAN KET S ●
● PANDOR A ● ZARA RIVER ● ISLAND ● WE ● ESPRIT
KARL LAGERFE LD ● LES ATELIER S DE LAMAILL E ●
LIU JO ● MONTBL ANC ●
l
ORANGE ● TOMMY HILFIGER ● JEANS
NESPRESSO ●
CELIO ● ICI PARIS XL ● FOOT LOCKER ● DODE ZEE COSMETICS ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● H&M ● I AM ● RITUALS ● KO LV E N I E R S S T R A AT LEVI'S ● COSTES WOMEN ● WEST-END ●
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UNIQLO ● HEMA ● DESIGUAL ● STREET ONE ●
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THE CHOCOL ATE ● LINE P.24 ● THE STING
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Tumi, Schuttershofstraat 14, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 644 4329, tumi.com The Merge line from Tumi’s spring/ summer 2020 collection is the label’s first travel range made from recycled materials. Post-industrial recycled nylon makes up the outside of the Merge cases, and the interiors are created from recycled plastic bottles. Colour choices include black and navy as well silver with neon yellow accents ‒ a striking option for carry-on luggage if you’re looking to stand out in first-class airport lounges. This season Tumi also presents the Turin line of backpacks and a briefcase in striking black croceffect leather. In addition, the brand’s Alpha 3 range offers everything from carry-ons and four-wheel cases to toiletry bags and even a pouch for electronic cables. FM
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LIU JO Italian label Liu Jo marks its 25th anniversary in 2020 and provides a host of glamorous options for spring/summer in celebration of this glorious milestone. From the green trench coat-style mac in the White label collection to the metallic mini dresses and white tuxedo jackets in the Gold label range, not to mention a stellar array of denim and accessories, Liu Jo has an outfit to suit every possible occasion. The brand’s beachwear options, which Liu Jo, Sint Amandsstraat 41, include floaty leopard print wrap 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 704048, dresses and sequin bikinis, will certainly have you turning heads liujo.com while lounging by the pool. SM H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 46 Global Blue Retailer
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GILSON A family jewellery company that dates back to 1949, Gilson has stores in Antwerp, Brussels and Bruges, each offering the same impeccable levels of service. Priding itself on keeping up with developments in the watch industry while not forgetting classic models from the top labels, Gilson stocks timepieces from Cartier, IWC, Tag Heuer and Bulgari among many others. Limited-edition horological creations can also be found in-store, alongside jewellery from Pomellato, Damiani and Marco Bicego as well as Gilson’s own designers. SM Gilson, Steenstraat 63-65, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 440022, gilsononline.be
Steenstraat & Noordzandstraat CINQUE ● DOMIQUE MEIR ●
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48
TrAnSLATIonS 中文翻译 26: QUALITY TIME 高品质时间 从高精尖的飞行员手表到风格大 胆摩登的各式腕表，越来越多的 富有创意的比利时品牌正在创造 出新的时计外观。Josh Sims为您 细述其中代表性品牌 2011年，农业工程师Michael Happe 寻求改变发展方向。结果就是推出了他 的手表品牌Gavox，并专攻强悍的运动 风格。这项业务迅速获得成功，并通过向 国家空军中队、美国空军的Osprey飞行 员和罗马尼亚空军提供产品而赢得了高 度信誉。但也许更令人惊讶的是Gavox 的原籍国：比利时。 上图: Gavox Roads 腕表
Happe说：“互联网让腕表界看到了 微小品牌的爆炸式增长。人们习惯了德 国，当然还有瑞士的手表。他们对比利时 也拥有自己的手表品牌感到惊讶。然而， 对于许多人来说，当地小品牌所提供的丰 富个性比‘瑞士制造’这个标签更为重要。 我认为比利时在过去十年中从仅有少数 几个腕表品牌发展到了如今的30多个。” 比利时有一些历史悠久的制表品 牌，最著名的是Lebeau-Courally， 创建于1865年。自那时以来，比利时 腕表品牌的傲人之处就在于其对独特 之美的追求。如Raidillon的限量版牛 头计时码表，用品牌的话来说，是为“绅 士驾车时佩戴”而设计的。Venneman 的款式更为简约，而Ice-Watch的产 品系列则更有趣好玩。除此之外，还有 Méraud、RSC和Twistiti，而后者专 门生产儿童手表。 经营家族公司RBaptiste的手雕大 师Roland Baptiste在大约十年前推出
49 了他的第一款手表。他指出，比利时的腕 表制造商中没有一个是劳力士（Rolex） 或百达翡丽（Patek Philippe）级别的大 品牌，并补充说比利时公司没有那种营销 能力。“因此，他们的每只手表都必须有一 个独特卖点；这些产品凭借本身的特色 来赢得赞赏，”他解释道。他的华丽作品 使用瑞士机芯，在比利时制造，每只腕表 都需要一周的时间进行雕刻。Baptiste 说：“（在雕刻过程中）决不允许犯任何错 误。你真的不想前功尽弃、从头再来。” RBaptiste的第一款手表Royal是 不同寻常的无指针款式，其后出品的手 表均采用经典风格。然而，大多数比利 时新潮手表品牌都具有现代外观。例 如，Komono的出众腕表包括配备压纹 表带的新款Lewis系列；Mono系列的 每款都完全以一种颜色呈现；还有配备 尼龙表带的Nato系列。Komono成立 于2009年，旨在填补价格低于100欧元 的大胆时尚手表市场的空白。 Komono的Wouter De Mets说， 要建立一个新的手表品牌并不容易。“当 我们第一次去中国拜访一家工厂时，在那 里看到一片广阔的草地，一个人告诉我们 工厂就要建起来了。现在我们的业务已 经建立起来，并正在努力告诉消费者，从 设计思路来说，我们是比利时品牌—— 特别是考虑到比利时与前卫时尚的联系， 比如Ann Demeulemeester 和Dries Van Noten 之类的设计大师。” 在比利时，许多年轻腕表品牌发展的 推动力来自跨领域的产品设计师，而非一 般意义上的手表创作者。例如，Benoît Mintiens Ressence还设计了婴儿车、 吸尘器以及火车和飞机的内饰。难怪 Ressence率先开发了一种用于显示时间 的绕动盘系统，以及一种无需明显表冠 即可将腕表壳合为一体的方法。该品牌 腕表的价格在14,000欧元以上，是比利 时最高档的钟表产品。 Mintiens说，工业设计师的工作“从 用户的大脑开始”。在设计腕表方面，他 们考虑的是“谁会戴上这只手表，以及它
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应该为他们做什么。这与用户的体验有 关。对我来说，选择使用什么机芯是最后 要考虑的一件事。” Tamawa的创始人Hubert Verstraeten本人就是产品设计师，曾为 革命性的数字手表制造商Ventura工作。 他巧妙地使用了比利时斯诺克球制造商 Saluc提供的酚醛树脂，通过这种出人 意料的材料建立了自己的手表、珠宝和照 明品牌。他说：“我一直很喜欢研究材料， 而这种材料优势明显——它的外观坚固 且非常耐磨，以至于使用十年的手表看 起来仍然很新。我们面对的问题是如何 将机芯整合到这种材料中，从而使手表 防水，具有表冠机制等。我们成功解决了 这些问题。” Tamawa的腕表已被伦敦的维多利 亚和阿尔伯特博物馆以及纽约的现代艺 术博物馆出售。Verstraeten说，这些腕 表都没有标明品牌，因为“这不是一种让 真正的手表狂人兴奋的手表。它不关乎机 芯，而关乎想法和外观。在竞争非常激烈 的市场中，制造与其他任何手表类似的手 表毫无意义”。 创建一家既能满足自己的兴趣， 又能做点新鲜事的腕表公司并非不可 能。Gavox的Michael Happe承认，他 制造飞行员手表是因为自己痴迷于飞机。 当他向空军飞行员提供手表时，他只提 出了一个条件。“由我亲自将手表送到基 地。”他说，“这意味着我得以和令人惊叹 的飞机相处很多时间。”
47: WhEn YoU Shop ThE WorLd, Shop TAx FrEE 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的30多万家 商店消费时，环球蓝联购物退税服务 （Global Blue Tax Free Shopping） 为您节省购物开销。 每年大约有两千六百多万名游客享用环
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26: QUALITY TIME ДРАГОЦЕННЫЕ МИНУТЫ От ультрасовременных авиаторов до ярких дизайнерских моделей – бельгийские бренды радуют покупателей оригинальными часами. Джош Симс рассказывает, на кого стоит обратить внимание В 2011 году агрономмеханизатор Микаэль Хаппе решил кардинально сменить карьеру. Так возник бренд Gavox, специализирующийся на часах в спортивном стиле. Они получили широкую популярность и завоевали доверие у национальных военно-воздушных сил, пилотов конвертопланов Osprey ВВС США и у румынских ВВС. Но, что самое удивительное, так это то, что страна производитель Gavox – Бельгия. «Благодаря интернету в мире часов произошел настоящий бум новых микробрендов, – говорит Хаппе. – Люди привыкли к тому, что часы должны производится в таких странах, как Германия или Швейцария. Поэтому многих поражает тот факт,
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что в Бельгии есть свои часовые бренды. Однако не смотря на привычки, покупатели охотнее отдают предпочтение малоизвестным местным брендам, способным обеспечить индивидуальный подход, вместо того чтобы переплачивать за этикетку «Сделано в Швейцарии». Я думаю, что за последние десять лет количество бельгийских часовых марок выросло от считаных единиц до более чем тридцати». В Бельгии расположен ряд старинных часовых мануфактур, например, Lebeau-Courally, которая была основана в 1865 году. Бельгийские часовые бренды, появившиеся за последнее десятилетие, отличает стремление к эстетическому своеобразию. Взять, к примеру, марку Raidillon и ее лимитированную серию хронографов в компоновке «bullhead», предназначенную, по словам бренда, «для водителей джентльменов». Есть и более минималистские модели Venneman и яркие от Ice-Watch. Стоит также отметить такие бренды, как Méraud, RSC и Twistiti. Последний специализируется на часах для детей. Роланд Баптист, гравировщик и основатель бренда RBaptiste, выпустил свои первые часы около десяти лет назад. Он отмечает, что в Бельгии нет таких крупных
производителей часов, как Rolex или Patek Philippe, которые могли бы обеспечить маркетинговую кампанию подобного масштаба. «Поэтому каждая модель должна иметь серьезные достоинства и преимущества», – поясняет он. Его изысканно украшенные изделия собираются в Бельгии с использованием швейцарских механизмов, при этом на гравировку каждого предмета уходит около недели. «В таком деле нет места для ошибки, – продолжает Баптист, – иначе все придется начинать с самого начала». RBaptiste Royal – первые часы бренда. Это слегка необычная модель с гравировкой, не имеющая стрелок, последующие модели уже выполнены в классическом стиле. И все же большинство бельгийских часовых брендов нового поколения имеют довольно современный вид. Например, ремешки новой серии часов Komono Lewis украшены принтом; в серии Mono каждая модель выполнена в одной цветовой гамме; а ремешки часов из коллекции Nato выполнены из нейлона. Бренд был основан в 2009 году и его главная специализация – яркие и стильные часы по цене до 100 евро. Открыть новый часовой бренд – задача не из легких, говорит Воутер Де Метс. «Когда мы впервые поехали в
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Китай, чтобы посмотреть на завод, нас ждало пустое поле с зеленеющей травой и человек, который объяснял нам, что скоро здесь будет стоять завод. Сейчас о нас знают многие, и мы стараемся объяснить нашим покупателям, что мы являемся подлинным бельгийским брендом, а Бельгия всегда будет ассоциироваться с авангардной модой и такими талантами, как Анн Демельмейстер и Дрис Ван Нотен». Во многих молодых часовых брендах Бельгии созданием часов занимаются не специалисты-часовщики, а дизайнеры широкого профиля. Так, бельгийский дизайнер Бенуа Минтьен из Ressence в прошлом занимался проектировкой детских колясок, пылесосов и интерьеров для поездов и авиалайнеров. Благодаря ему Ressence создали инновационную дисковую систему циферблата и конструкцию без заводной
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головки. С ценами от 14 000 евро и выше бренд предлагает самые современные часовые изделия Бельгии. Индустриальные дизайнеры «смотрят на объект своего творчества с позиции конечного пользователя», – говорит Минтьен. В случае с часами, они принимают в расчет интересы «тех, кто будет их носить и предлагают соответствующий функционал. Пользовательский интерфейс здесь главный фактор, а механизм – второстепенный». Дизайнер Хуберт Верстратен, основатель бренда Tamawa, в прошлом работал на производителя новаторских цифровых часов Ventura. В основу его собственного бренда часов, ювелирных украшений и светильников легла технология с использованием неожиданного материала – фенольной смолы, которую поставляет бельгийский производитель бильярдных шаров Saluc. «Я всегда любил экспериментировать
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с материалами и этот имеет очевидные преимущества – он достаточно прочный и износостойкий, например, даже спустя десять лет часы будут выглядеть как новые, – говорит он. – Главная проблема заключалась в том, чтобы обеспечить водонепроницаемость корпуса и сохранить заводную головку, но нам удалось это решить». Часы Tamawa можно приобрести в Музее Виктории и Альберта в Лондоне и Музее современного искусства в НьюЙорке. По словам Верстратена, на часах отсутствует маркировка бренда, поскольку «это не те часы, которые приведут в восторг часовых фанатов. В них важен не механизм, а сама идея и дизайн. В условиях жесткой рыночной конкуренции нет смысла создавать часы, которые мало чем отличаются от остальных». Нет ничего невозможного и при желании можно даже открыть часовую компанию, которая позволит воплотить в жизнь собственные идеи. Микаэль Хаппе из Gavox признает, что создает часыавиаторы из-за своего увлечения самолетами. Снабжая пилотов ВВС часами, он ставит лишь одно условие: «Я доставляю часы лично на базу, – признается он, – а это значит, что я могу увидеть и побыть рядом с уникальными самолетами». Слева: часы из последней коллекции Raidillon
47: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по вСему миру, Совершайте их С Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €125 и сэкономьте до 16% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
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ص ّمم عربات أطفال ومكانس كهربائيّة وابتكر الديكور الداخيل لقطارات وطائرات .فال عجب أن تخرتع Ressenceنظام أقراص دائريّة املسار إلظهار الوقت ولضبط ساعاتها من دون تاج واضح .ترتاوح أسعارها بني 14,000 يورو وما فوق فتشكّل الساعة األكرث فخامة يف بلجيكا .يقول " :Mintiensينطلق املص ّممون الصناع ّيون من عقل املستخدم؛ لدى تصميم ساعة ،يأخذون بعني العتبار من سيلبس هذه فكل يشء يدور حول الساعة وكيف ستفيدهّ . املستخدم .أ ّما الحركة اآلليّة ،فتأيت برأيي يف أسفل سلّم األولويّات". مؤسس Hubert Verstraetenهو ّ عالمة Tamawaومص ّمم منتجات وقد عمل سابقاً مع ،Venturaصانعة الساعات الرقميّة املختصة بالساعات املذهلة .تعتمد عالمته ّ واملجوهرات واألضواء عىل الستخدام الذيك ملادّة غري اعتياديّة وهي الراتينج املحتوي عىل الفينول والتي تز ّوده رشكة Salucالبلجيكيّة املص ّنعة لطابات البليار دو .يقول يف هذا الصدد" :لطاملا أحببت اختبار املواد ولهذه فوائد واضحة؛ إنّها صلبة ومتينة للغاية ،فقد تبدو ساعة ُصنعت منذ عرش سنوات ،جديدة متاماً .واجهنا صعوبة يف إدخال حركة آل ّية إىل هذه املادّة لتكون الساعة مقاومة للامء وتتمتّع بتاج وما شابه. لك ّننا نجحنا يف نهاية املطاف" بيعت ساعات Tamawaيف أماكن عىل غرار متحف Victoria and Albertيف لندن و Museum of Modern Artيف نيويورك. ل تحمل أي منها شعار العالمة ،عىل ح ّد قول ،Verstraetenإذ ليست من النوع الذي يجذب املهووسني الحقيق ّيني بالساعات .املم ّيز فيها ليس حركتها اآلليّة ،بل فكرتها وتصميمها. ففي سوق كثري الكتظاظ ،ل جدوى من صنع ساعة تشبه غريها". هذا ل يعني أنّه من املستحيل ابتكار رشكة تصنيع ساعات تستجيب لهتامماتك وتخلق منتجا ً جديدا ً .سبق واعرتف Michael Happeمن Gavoxأنّه يصنع ساعات للط ّيارين نتيجة هوسه بالط ّيارات .وعندما يز ّود طيّاري الق ّوات الجويّة بالساعات ،يشرتط أن يسلّمها لهم شخص ّياً يف القاعدة الجويّة .يقول: "بهذه الطريقة ،تتس ّنى ل الفرصة أن أميض وقتاً طويالً وسط طائرات مذهلة". إىل اليسار :تستخدم ساعات Tamawaالراتينج املحتوي عىل الفينول الذي تز ّوده رشكة Salucاملصنّعة لطابات البليارد
whEn YoU shop ThE worLd, shop TAx frEE: 47 عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل، تس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blue خدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكرث من 300,000متجر يف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق
حول العامل. فل َم ل تنض ّم إىل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الرضيبة من خالل كل سنة؟ ما عليك غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق أينام تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عىل طلب الخاص بغلوبل بلو Global اسرتداد الرضيبة ّ Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصالت. .2أطلب يف طريق العودة إىل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجامرك عند نقطة املغادرة لتتم املصادقة عىل إيصالتك قبل قبض السرتداد من أحد مكاتب الخاصة بنا. السرتداد ّ لالتّصال:
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من مثن مشرتياتك .يشمل مبلغ السرتداد النهايئ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الرضيبة عىل القيمة املضافة ناقص رسم إداري .يف بعض املطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عىل كل طلب اسرتداد رضيبة يف حال رغبت بالحصول عىل اسرتداد فوري نقدي.
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ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية QUALITY TIME :26 أوقات مثينة
من ساعات باهرة لط ّيارين إىل أخرى مبوديالت حديثة صارخة ،تبتكر مجموعة متنامية من العالمات التجاريّة البلجيك ّية ّ الخالقة تصاميم ساعات جديدة .يسلّط Josh Simsالضوء عىل األسامء الجديرة بالذكررة. يف العام ،2011شعر املهندس الزراعي Michael Happeبحاجة إىل تغيري مسار حياته .فكانت النتيجة إطالق العالمة التجاريّة الخاصة بالرياضات الصعبة. Gavoxللساعات ّ ما لبثت أن حقّقت نجاحاً رسيعاً وحظيت مبصداقيّة عالية فز ّودت الق ّوات الجويّة الوطن ّية وط ّياري Ospreyيف الق ّوات الجويّة األمريكيّة وتلك الرومانيّة .لكن املثري لالهتامم بشأن Gavoxهو أنّها عالمة بلجيكيّة .يقول Happeيف هذا الصدد" :بفضل اإلنرتنت، برزت العالمات الصغرية بشكلٍ غري مسبوق يف عامل الساعات .الناس معتادون عىل الساعات املصنوعة يف أملانيا وبالطبع يف سويرسا أيضاً. لكن غالباً ما يُذهلون عندما يعرفون بوجود مختصة بالساعات .بالنسبة إىل عالمات بلجيك ّية ّ كثريين ،اقتناء ساعة من عالمة محليّة صغرية قادرة عىل إضفاء نفحة شخصيّة أه ّم بكثري من وسمة "صنع يف سويرسا" .ميكنني القول إ ّن عدد املختصة بالساعات قد ازداد العالمات البلجيكيّة ّ من بضعة إىل ما يزيد عن الثالثني يف السنوات العرش األخرية". تض ّم بلجيكا بعض األسامء العريقة يف صناعة الساعات وأشهرها Lebeau- تأسست سنة .1865ما مييّز Courallyالتي ّ املختصة بالساعات التي العالمات البلجيكيّة ّ ت ّم إطالقها مذّاك هو سعيها للتمتّع بأسلوب معني .مث ّة أيضاً Raidillonالتي جامل ّ ص ّممت مجموعة محدودة من الكرونوغراف عىل شكل رأس الثور للـ "سائق األنيق" عىل ح ّد تعبريها .مث ّة أيضاً عالمات أكرث بساط ًة مثل
Vennemanومجموعات أكرث مرحا ً من Ice .Watchوال ميكن أن ننىس MéraudوRSC املختصة بساعات األطفال. وTwistiti ّ منذ حوال عرش سنوات ،أطلق Roland Baptisteأ ّول عالمة له للساعات وهو
حريف ماهر يف الحفر ويدير رشكة العائلة .RBaptisteيشري إىل أنّه ما من عالمة ساعات بلجيك ّية ضخمة بحجم Rolexأو Patek ،Philippeمضيفاً أنّه ليس للرشكات البلجيكيّة قدرات تسويق ّية مامثلة .يرشح قائالً" :بالتال، لكل من ساعاتها أن تتمتّع بعالمة فارقة؛ ال ب ّد ًّ مستقل ّ يجب أن تحظى بالتقدير كمنتج بح ّد ذاته ".ت ُصنع ساعاته املن ّمقة يف بلجيكا كل بحركات آليّة سويرسيّة ويستغرق حفر ّ منها أسبوع كامل .يقول " :Baptisteال مجال للخطأ ،فال أحد يح ّبذ اإلعادة من الصفر ".ساعة RBaptisteاألوىل ،Royalاستثنائيّة وخالية من العقارب ،أ ّما الساعات التي تلتها فكانت كالسيكيّة .إال أ ّن معظم العالمات البلجيكيّة الجديدة تبتكر ساعات عرصيّة الشكل .تشمل ساعات Komonoاملم ّيزة عىل سبيل املثال تشكيلة Lewisالجديدة ذات األساور املنقوشة كل ساعة بلونٍ ومجموعة Monoحيث تأيت ّ واحد ال غري ،باإلضافة إىل مجموعة Nato تأسست العالمة سنة 2009 بأساور من النايلونّ . لتلبية النقص يف السوق إىل الساعات الجريئة بأقل من املجارية للموضة بأسعار معقولة أي ّ 100يورو. عىل ح ّد قول Wouter De Metsمن تؤسس " :Komonoليس من السهل أن ّ تختص بالساعات .عندما عالمة جديدة ّ ذهبنا إىل الصني للم ّرة األوىل لرؤية معمل، وقفنا يف ميدان أخرض كبري وقال لنا أحدهم، سيش ّيد املعمل هنا .اليوم وقد اجتزنا مرحلة التأسيس ،نحاول أن نظهر من خالل التصميم أنّنا عالمة بلجيكيّة آخذين بعني االعتبار ارتباط بلجيكا باملوضة الخالقة وبأسامء مثل Ann DemeulemeesterوDries Van ".Noten تجدر اإلشارة إىل تعاون عدّة عالمات تجاريّة بلجيكيّة صاعدة يف مجال الساعات مع مص ّممي منتجات مختلفة أكرث منه مع خرباء ساعات .سبق لـ Benoît Mintiens من عالمة Ressenceعىل سبيل املثال ،أن
SO U V E N I R
Light Art
Belgian fragrance brand Baobab Collection seeks to tell a story with each new scent it creates. The label was founded in 2002, and its beautiful hand-poured candles and diffusers are now found in some of the most stylish homes around the world. Baobab’s impressive Maxi Max-sized candles are becoming renowned; more than 35cm high, they have an estimated burn time of 800 hours. Each of the label’s candles is housed in mouth-blown glass, adorned in a distinctive style to create a decorative ornament. Paying tribute to the brand’s home town, the Brussels candle Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47
takes inspiration from art nouveau Belgian architect Victor Horta. The hand-printed design pays homage to Horta’s vaulted balconies that can be seen across the city, while the woody scent of sandalwood, honey and cypress conjures images of grand Belgian homes of the 19th century. LT Baobab Collection Brussels candles, €89, €129, €265 and €525, Baobab Collection, 15 rue des Sablons, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 8064, baobabcollection.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 32
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