SHOP Milan SS20

MILAN | 米兰 | МИЛАН | ミラノ

DISCOVER MILAN: the essential insiders’ guide to Italy’s fashion capital

Editor’s LEttEr Essential Info For the very latest information, scan the QR code on this page to head straight to our website, globalblue.com, and find everything you need to navigate the best shopping destinations on earth.

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Welcome to Milan

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sALLY MciLHoNE

ILLUSTRATION: PeTRA eRIkSSON

Let us help you discover the very best of the stylish city renowned as the centre of Italian fashion. Whether you are travelling for business or leisure, Milan has much to offer – we reveal a selection of the season’s highlights in our guide section (page 63).

Don’t miss our feature on the renaissance of Milan’s highend menswear, as fashion for gentlemen once again takes centre stage on the catwalks (page 42). If you’re shopping for a summer getaway, our recommendations will help you put together a standout holiday wardrobe (page 50). In this issue we also reveal Milan’s top regionally themed restaurants (page 58).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy.

We have over a decade’s experience of publishing guides to the most prestigious destinations across the globe. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top brands you’ll find in Milan. Discover the best shopping destinations in the city with Global Blue.

MILANO — VIA MONTE NAPOLEONE, 6 — LA RINASCENTE, PIAZZA DUOMO, 3 SANTONISHOES.COM

CONTRIBUTORS

GINGER ROSE CLARK Ginger Rose Clark, SHOP’s senior news editor, holds an MA in fashion journalism from the London College of Fashion. Before joining SHOP, Ginger worked as a fashion stylist and also wrote for a number of publications.

MÓNICA R GOYA Journalist and photographer Mónica R Goya is SHOP’s assistant picture editor. When she is not at work she is involved in supporting the principles of food justice. She loves to go hiking and to share a meal and conversation with family and friends.

Discover SHOP Milan and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

ILLUSTRATION: GIORDANO POLONI

GIORDANO POLONI Giordano Poloni’s elegant graphic style makes him the ideal choice to illustrate this season’s cover of SHOP Milan. The image shows a city scene, with the Porta Venezia reinterpreted as a pair of cufflinks presented in a stylish box. Giordano has also worked with HSBC, Vice magazine and New Scientist.

MILANO C.so V. Emanuele

(angolo Galleria S. Carlo)

Galleria V. Emanuele, 69 C.so Buenos Aires, 39

C.so Vercelli, 35 C.so Genova, 20 C.so XXII Marzo, 5

SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L

PUBLISHING

Head of editorial Sally McIlhone

Publisher James Morris

Cover illustrator Giordano Poloni

Chinese editor Yuan Fang

Senior designer Adam Pietrzyk

Contributors Aaron Carline, Kirsty Welsh

Russian editor Gary Ramazanov

Midweight designers Paulina Rasińska, Karolina Żak

Production editor Farrah Moore Senior fashion editor Lucinda Turner Senior news editor Ginger Rose Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Myers, Harriet O’Brien

Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto

Junior designers Tatjiana Antoniou, Anna Nowakowska, Łukasz Owczarek Studio production coordinators Iza Kuczyńska, Marek Oświecimski Print Walstead Krakow

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editor Mónica R Goya

G LO B A L B L U E I TA LY Managing director Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales manager Denise Bolandrina Marketing executive Laura Gallo Marketing & lounge sales executive Eleonora Busico Partner relationship manager Antonella Bertossi Head of key accounts Stefano Cardinale Head of accounts Marco Cavalli Key account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Ilaria Sassarini, Marco Savino, Andrea Zavattarelli Account managers Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Elisa Caporaso, Laura Durante, Giorgia Faro, Gabriele Giuntini, Davide Grechi, Marco Marino, Diana Martin, Marta Miserendino, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Vincenzo Saponara, Giordano Senzacqua Sellout team Giulia Belligrandi, Erika Bordoni, Fillipo John Ciccarelli, Andrea Di Comite, Livia Gargelli, Sara Villoresi Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern

Published by Rhapsody Media Group headquarters 109-123 Clifton Street, London EC2A 4LD, +44 (0)20 7729 1000, rhapsodymedia.com enquiries@rhapsodymedia.com

SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Printed by Walstead group Group headquarters 22 Westside Centre, London Road, Colchester, Essex CO3 8PH, walstead-group.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2020 Global Blue

CONTENTS CHECK OUT 14

NEWS 32

PRODUCTS 16

10 QUESTIONS …

40

INVESTMENT PIECE 28

42

SHOP selects a standout piece from Milan this season

Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

A future classic to buy this season: Bottega Veneta’s Tuja clutch bag

Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

… with Nicoletta Spagnoli, president of the Luisa Spagnoli fashion house

SHOP WINDOW 30

Don’t miss the unique new film-inspired Tod’s Studios concept boutique on Via Montenapoleone

30 FEATURE 42 MILAN’S MENSWEAR RENAISSANCE

Milan is reclaiming its reputation as a menswear stronghold, reports Patrick Clark

Above (from left): Tod’s Studios concept boutique; Salvatore Ferragamo spring/summer 2020

MILANO CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE CORSO XXII MARZO 4 CITY LIFE SHOPPING DISTRICT P.ZZA TRE TORRI 1 CENTRO COMM. CARREFOUR MILANOFIORI ASSAGO

contents FeaTure 50 la dolce ViTa

74

Fill your holiday suitcase with timeless Italian classics, says Kirsty Welsh

58

Milan Guide 63

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Milan

Keen to try regional Italian cuisine? If you’re visiting Milan, you don’t need to leave the city.

Ginger Rose Clark rounds up key addresses to know

souVenir 98

The essential item to bring home

Above (from left): Ratanà restaurant celebrates the food of Milan and Lombardy; 7 For All Mankind spring/summer 2020

PHOTO: (RIGHT) TOMASO LISCA

Table Talk 58

TranslaTions 86 中文翻译 89 Русский Перевод 94 日本語翻訳

CH EC K O U T

Milanese Minimalism

Chic, stylish and minimalist, Italian brand Valextra is the epitome of timeless luxury.

Famous for its classic designs, the label eschews branding in order to let the quality of its products speak for themselves, and since 1937 Valextra’s leather handbags have done just that. For spring/summer 2020 the brand has collaborated with London-based designer Michael Anastassiades on the Flute collection. Taking Valextra’s 1960s Serie S bag, Anastassiades incorporated a modern Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

metal tube, the ‘flute’ of the collection’s name, updating the design with a contemporary flourish. Alongside the bags, the collaboration also includes 24-carat gold jewellery and a range of sleek lamps and chandeliers, all available in the brand’s Milanese flagship. LT Valextra by Michael Anastassiades Flute bag, €2,850, Valextra, Via Alessandro Manzoni 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 9978 6060, valextra.com H for map go to page 75

MAXMARA.COM MILANO - Corso Vittorio Emanuele - Corso Genova, 16 - Via Cuneo, 3 - Via Victor Hugo, 1

16 | P R O D U C T S

PATRIZIA PEPE HAT, €240, PATRIZIA PEPE, VIA ALESSANDRO MANZONI 38, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7601 4477, PATRIZIAPEPE.COM

CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE SUNGLASSES, €320, CELINE, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 25/2, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7788 5900, CELINE.COM

EFFORTLESS ELEGANCE A neutral palette, timeless accessories and an oversized sunhat make for a perfectly chic summer look

MIU MIU BAG, €1,400, MIU MIU, VIA SANT’ANDREA 21, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7600 1799, MIUMIU.COM

STELLA MCCARTNEY SHOES, €595, STELLA MCCARTNEY, RINASCENTE, PIAZZA DEL DUOMO, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7208 0756, STELLAMCCARTNEY.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

SANDRO DRESS, €275, SANDRO, VIA BIGLI 21, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7634 1398, SANDRO-PARIS.COM

18 | P R O D U C T S

Sandal Season From simple slides to embellished designs, flat sandals are sure to be a wardrobe staple this summer

PINKO SANDALS, €195, PINKO, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 26, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 8736 8995, PINKO.COM

JIMMY CHOO SANDALS, €575, JIMMY CHOO, VIA SANT’ANDREA 1A, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 4548 1770, JIMMYCHOO.COM

LONGCHAMP SANDALS, €375, LONGCHAMP, VIA DELLA SPIGA 6, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 8493 2705, LONGCHAMP.COM

AQUAZZURA SANDALS, €665, AQUAZZURA, VIA SANT’ANDREA 12, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 8352 0312, AQUAZZURA.COM PRADA SANDALS, €690, PRADA, VIA MONTENAPLEONE 8, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 777 1771, PRADA.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

PHOTOS: (JIMMY CHOO) © KAREN BENGALL PHOTOGRAPHY; (CASADEI & AQUAZZURA) © MARCO LAMBRI

CASADEI SANDALS, €650, CASADEI, VIA SANT’ANDREA 1, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7631 8293, CASADEI.COM

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SANTONI SANDALS, €350, SANTONI, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 6, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7628 0508, SANTONISHOES.COM

MANOLO BLAHNIK SANDALS, €735, ANTONIA, VIA CUSANI 5, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 8699 8340, MANOLOBLAHNIK.COM

SPORTMAX SANDALS, PRICE ON REQUEST, SPORTMAX, VIA DELLA SPIGA 20, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7601 1944, SPORTMAX.COM

CHURCH’S SANDALS, €420, CHURCH’S, VIA SANT’ANDREA 11, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7631 8794, CHURCH-FOOTWEAR.COM

RED VALENTINO SANDALS, €350, RED VALENTINO, CORSO VENEZIA 6, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 3675 6030, REDVALENTINO.COM

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI SANDALS, €595, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 8, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7628 0759, GIUSEPPEZANOTTI.COM

globalblue.com

20 | P R O D U C T S

BORSalinO HaT, €275, Borsalino, Via sant’andrEa 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 878910, Borsalino.coM

Summer Tailoring TOmmy HilfigER jaCkET, €329, toMMy HilfigEr, Via orEfici 11/2, 20123 Milan, +39 02 0064 9876, toMMy.coM

Forget classic black and opt for a pastel suit this season, complete with stylish Italian accessories

ETRO SCaRf, €365, Etro, Via MontEnapolEonE 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 5049, Etro.coM

BalDinini SHOES, €400, Baldinini, Via MontEnapolEonE 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 2002, Baldinini-sHop.coM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

TOmmy HilfigER TROUSERS, €129, toMMy HilfigEr, Via orEfici 11/2, 20123 Milan, +39 02 0064 9876, toMMy.coM

S H O P | 23

HELLO YELLOW Embrace top to toe tonal dressing for spring/summer 2020 in eye-catching yellow silks and metallic extras

BLUMARINE BLOUSE, €690, BLUMARINE, VIA DELLA SPIGA 30, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 795081, BLUMARINE.COM

ESCADA SKIRT, €399, ESCADA, CORSO GIACOMO MATTEOTTI 22, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7600 0753, ESCADA.COM

BULGARI BAG, €1,780, BULGARI, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 2, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 777001, BULGARI.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

SWAROVSKI EARRINGS, €129, SWAROVSKI, CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II 15, 20122 MILAN, +39 02 780722, SWAROVSKI.COM

SERGIO ROSSI SHOES, €670, SERGIO ROSSI, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 27, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7600 6140, SERGIOROSSI.COM

S H O P | 25

Step Out In Stripes Ideal for a weekend getaway or exploring the city, striped shirts and classic tailoring are a perfect combination Cartier watCH, €3,550, Cartier, Via montenapoleone 16a, 20121 milan, +39 02 303 0421, Cartier.Com

BOSS SHirt, €99.95, Boss, Corso GiaComo matteotti 11, 20121 milan, +39 02 7639 4667, huGoBoss.Com

SHOP HigHLigHt* COS trOuSerS, €79, Cos, Corso Venezia 5, 20121 milan, +39 06 3283 2702, Cosstores.Com

Saint Laurent By antHOny VaCCareLLO Bag, €1,890, saint laurent, Via montenapoleone 8, 20121 milan, +39 02 3601 9900, ysl.Com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

BruneLLO CuCineLLi SHOeS, €550, Brunello CuCinelli, Via montenapoleone 27C, 20121 milan, +39 02 7601 5982, BrunelloCuCinelli.Com

*SHOP Highlight in paid partnership with Saint Laurent

Make A Statement

SHOP | 27

PHOTOS: (FENDI) © AEDO PULTRONE; (JIL SANDER) © MICHELE SILVESTRO/IMAXTREE.COM

Upgrade any summer look with vintage-inspired costume jewellery from these luxury labels

BALENCIAGA EARRINGS, €395, BALENCIAGA, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 23, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 3601 8250, BALENCIAGA.COM

CHANEL EARRINGS, €660, CHANEL, VIA SANT’ANDREA 10, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7788 6999, CHANEL.COM

FENDI EARRINGS, €550, FENDI, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 3, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7602 1617, FENDI.COM

ERMANNO SCERVINO EARRINGS, €430, GIO MORETTI, VIA DELLA SPIGA 4, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7600 3186, ERMANNOSCERVINO.COM

JIL SANDER EARRINGS, €490, JIL SANDER, VIA PIETRO VERRI 6, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 777 2991, JILSANDER.COM

CHLOÉ EARRINGS, €350, CHLOÉ, VIA DELLA SPIGA 30, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 3035 7401, CHLOE.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

28 | P r O d u c t S

INVESTMENT

PIECE When Daniel Lee was announced as the new creative director of heritage Italian fashion house Bottega Veneta in 2018, the fashion industry was slightly puzzled. The young British designer was only 32, very little was known about him, and, although his impressive resumé included stints at Balenciaga and Celine, the appointment seemed a little out of the blue.

Just 12 months later, Lee had turned Bottega Veneta into one of the most covetable brands on the planet. In summer 2019 Bottega Veneta’s square-toed Stretch sandals sold out across department stores and luxury e-commerce sites from New York to Sydney.

Demand for the brand’s accessories increased by 53% in 2019, according to fashion search engine Lyst, and shows no signs of slowing down for spring/summer 2020.

While shoes took a starring role in the label’s previous offerings, its luxurious leather bags are a key focus for the season ahead.

Playing on Bottega Veneta’s heritage and its iconic woven leather creations, the Tuja clutch is a perfect addition to any summer wardrobe.

The meeting of a vintage aesthetic with globalblue.com

PHOTO: EsTrOP-BarcElOna

A key breakout brand of 2019, Daniel Lee’s Bottega Veneta is the label to know when shopping in Milan this season. Make a beeline for its statement spring/summer 2020 accessories, says Lucinda Turner

PHOTO: (BOTTOm) EsTrOP-BarcElOna

S H O P | 29

thoroughly modern touches, its design features a solid wood fastening with woven leather forming an intricate pattern below. The metal set within the wooden closure is gold on one side and silver on the other, allowing the piece to be flipped to match any jewellery.

Available in eight different colours, from timeless black to vibrant racing green, the Tuja clutch is sure to be seen in stylish cities, smart beach resorts and on the most elegant Instagram accounts the world over this summer. The oversized design can be carried as seen or folded over to create a more streamlined look, and is ideal dressed up with a flowing summer gown or dressed down with bleached denim and plenty of gold costume jewellery. Daniel Lee creates accessories that truly work within a modern woman’s life; a sure-fire recipe for everlasting style l Bottega Veneta Tuja clutch, ₏2,650, Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7202 3854, bottegaveneta.com H for MaP go To PagE 68

Shop WindoW

A STEP AHEAD Following on from the Tod’s Apartment in London and the Tod’s Library in New York, Tod’s has opened its latest concept boutique in Italy. Tod’s Studios is located on Milan’s prestigious Via Montenapoleone shopping street. The store’s design, based on the idea of a film studio with evolving sets and plots, changes regularly, offering new experiences with every visit. A pop-up area with large screens, for example, projects videos that tie in with the current season, and the brand has set out to collaborate with artists on works that mirror the latest collections. The boutique’s offering is also unique: alongside the seasonal collection, customers should look out for limited-edition designs, Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

collection previews and re-editions which are exclusive to this store, as well as one-of-a-kind products and bespoke services. A private lounge can be made available for shopping outside of regular opening hours – this is the perfect place to discover Tod’s covetable designs while enjoying a glass of wine. With Tod’s Studios, the brand presents a fascinating new store, one which takes the experience of physical retail to a whole new level. GRC Tod’s, Via Montenapoleone 13, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2423, tods.com H for mAP go To PAgE 72

TIME FOR A NEW ICON.

1 9 1 9 C H R O N O T I M E R F LY B A C K PORSCHE DESIGN WERK 01.200 CALIBER

www.porsche-design.com/1 9 1 9Flyback

32 | N E W S

Home from Home In 2019 Milan’s Golden Quadrilateral welcomed a Bally flagship store, noteworthy for being the brand’s first Bally Haus. With this new store concept Bally wanted to focus on craftsmanship and its Swiss roots, through three key themes of art, architecture and natural materials. The entrance was inspired by the work of artist Paul Klee; tiles echo those found in the Schönenwerd home of founder Carl Franz Bally; elsewhere beech wood is used in a large table top.

These Swiss influences merge seamlessly with Italian touches, which anchor the store in its Milanese setting.

The space for the menswear collections on the first floor is reminiscent of a Swiss cabin. The second floor, which echoes the design of a Milanese apartment, is home to womenswear. In addition to carrying the brand’s collections, the store also stocks lifestyle products such as stationery and hosts an exciting programme of cultural events. GRC Bally, Via Montenapoleone 29, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8406, bally.com H for map go to page 72

top toUrS Enhance your trip to Milan with city tour specialist Zani Viaggi, which offers coach trips that take in the best of Milan’s culture, art and fashion, as well as shopping tours to some of Italy’s finest outlets. Services run from the city centre to shopping villages which showcase designer brands at discount prices.

Destinations include Serravalle Designer Outlet, the largest outlet in Europe; Il Centro; Franciacorta Outlet Village and Vicolungo The Style Outlets. Zani Viaggi can also take you across the border into Switzerland, to the FoxTown stores.

Wherever you decide to go, Zani Viaggi will ensure you travel in style. SM Zani Viaggi, Milan Visitor Center, Largo Cairoli 18 (city centre) and Milano Centrale station, Ground Level, 20100 Milan, +39 02 867131, zaniviaggi.com H for map go to page 76 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

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QUINteSSeNtIaLLY ItaLIaN Acqua di Parma recently re-opened its boutique on Via Gesù in Milan. The store, located within the Melzi di Cusano palace, a neoclassical building from the 19th century, has been transformed into a light space in which the brand’s signature Parma yellow is a leitmotif. Acqua di Parma’s Italian heritage is referenced throughout, whether in the design of the outdoor patio or in the chandelier made according to artisanal techniques particular to Murano. The store is divided into different rooms, each with a unique feel to express the various facets of the brand. As you move through the space, discover the label’s ranges, including Blu Mediterraneo, Signatures of the Sun and the Home Collection.

Products can be personalised and customers can also enjoy an Italian shave by one of the brand’s barbers using grooming products from the Barbiere collection.

The updated store is the perfect opportunity to immerse yourself in the fragrant world of Acqua di Parma. GRC Acqua di Parma, Via Gesù 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 3307, acquadiparma.com

PHOTO: (TOP) BALLY

H for map go to page 70

34 | N E W S

THE BIggER pICTURE

For over 50 years Brera loafers have been an iconic Fratelli Rossetti style; first designed for men, the versions for women proved equally popular. The Milanese brand has decided to expand on the range with the launch of a Brera bag as part of its spring/summer offering.

The season’s collection, called Love Each Side of You, celebrates the complementary nature of Fratelli Rossetti’s collections for men and women, a trait that has been central to the brand since the 70s and is exemplified by the Brera loafers. The new bags include the pictured style (€590).

They are defined by contrast piping, the word Brera in mirror image, and a tassel, in a nod to the famous loafer’s tassel.

Embroidered and beaded versions are also available. GRC Fratelli Rossetti, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1650, fratellirossetti.com H FOR MAp gO TO pAgE 72 save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

H FOR MAp gO TO pAgE 66

PHOTO: PHOTOs: XXXXXXX (LefT) PaOLO marcHesi; (rigHT) Leica

FROM BRERA, WITH LOVE

Late last year Leica introduced its new Leica SL2 camera, the latest update to the Leica SL-System originally introduced five years ago. Highlights of the mirrorless camera include perfected ergonomics, in-body stabilisation and a user interface that is simple to use. It features a 5.76-megapixel viewfinder and the new Leica Object Detection AF, an impressive auto-focus system which encompasses various modes and includes features such as face recognition.

The camera can also be used to capture high-quality videos, thanks to its ability to record up to 60 frames per second in Cine 4K mode and up to 180 frames per second in Full-HD mode. The Leica SL2 can be used in conjunction with the Leica Fotos app, which can be synced to various mobile devices, allowing you to adjust settings or to share images on social media, for example. Designed and made in Germany, the Leica SL2 is an impressive camera that is sure to please even the most demanding photographer. GRC Leica, Via Giuseppe Mengoni 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8909 5156, leica-camera.com

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M IL A NO

NEW BEGINNINGS A new chapter has begun for Frankie Morello Milano following the appointment of Damir Doma as artistic director. In the process of starting afresh and forming a new identity, the brand firmly roots itself in the city of Milan: this is evidenced by the urban feel of Soul Searchers, Doma’s debut spring/summer 2020 collection, which explores the brand’s DNA. Tailoring is deconstructed – seen in sleeveless blazers, for example.

Blurred and pixelated flower motifs appear across menswear and womenswear; large flowers are embroidered on tops and jackets. A new logo brings the finishing touch to the collection and helps signal a new era. GRC Frankie Morello, Via Pietro Verri 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8342 0350, frankiemorello.com H for map Go to paGE 70

CooL KNItS Falconeri is a fine example of Italian craftsmanship, creating knitwear for all seasons from top quality materials.

The brand’s spring/summer 2020 womenswear focuses on simple designs that play with fabrics, textures and colour. The collection is broken down into different elements which move seamlessly from seasonal trends to timeless designs. Highlights include light knits in bright, spring-like lime green (pictured, €247), lurex skirts and sequin-studded jumpers. GRC Falconeri, Via della Spiga 1-3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 4755, falconeri.com H for map Go to paGE 73 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

38 | N E W S

THE FUTURE OF FASHION This season, sustainability remains a driving factor behind Ermenegildo Zegna’s collections.

Under the title #UseTheExisting, the starting point of the Ermenegildo Zegna XXX spring/ summer collection is fabrics: artistic director Alessandro Sartori uses fabrics developed by Zegna’s textile division with a strong focus on wool and technical fabrics made from preexisting materials. The Achill suit is made from rewoven left-over wool remnants, for example. Sartori rewrites the rules of tailoring, mixing in sportswear elements or using technical crinkled fabrics on suits for a fresh, contemporary effect. In pushing the boundaries of fabric development, Sartori brings an exciting new perspective to menswear. GRC Ermenegildo Zegna, Via Montenapoleone 27E, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6437, zegna.com H FOR mAp gO TO pAgE 72

Monograms are having a moment in luxury and Herno is the latest label to give its monogram an update: the new take is a celebration of the brand’s history.

Herno was founded by Giuseppe Marenzi as a brand that specialised in waterproof gear. Water has always been an important symbol for Herno, not least because of its ties to Lake Maggiore and the Erno valley: the line that runs from the H under the logo is suggestive of a river. The 1950s-inspired monogram appears on a cotton jacquard as a brown H sitting on a beige background and in a more tonal version on nylon. It can be found across trench coats, raincoats and parkas as well as bomber and caban jackets, where it appears as a fully patterned fabric or in subtle details. GRC Herno, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 9443 2789, herno.it H FOR mAp gO TO pAgE 72 save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

PHOTO: (rigHT) salvaTOre dragOne

mONOgRAm mANIA

40 | 10 Q U E S T I O N S

10 QUESTIONS WITH NIcoleTTa SpagNolI,

preSIdeNT of THe luISa SpagNolI faSHIoN HouSe

Since taking the helm of her family company in 1986, Nicoletta Spagnoli has transformed the much-loved Italian brand into a global fashion house.

Lucinda Turner caught up with the CEO and president of Luisa Spagnoli to discuss heritage, inspiration and the key looks of the season

1.

HOw HaS THE LUISa SPagNOLI braNd cHaNgEd SINcE yOU TOOk OvEr THE cOmPaNy? My life changed in 1986, the year in which the death of my father, the director of the company, took place. Until then I had only worked with the company as a designer and all of a sudden, I found myself having to make important decisions as CEO. My first major project was to acquire a new clientele: young, sophisticated and attentive to new trends.

2.

HOw ImPOrTaNT IS yOUr famILy’S HErITagE TO THE braNd? The brand was born thanks to the intuition of my great-grandmother Luisa Spagnoli.

Her dream and goal, which still influences our corporate philosophy today, was to create haute couture at affordable prices. Since I have been at the helm of the company, I have tried to bring together two important aspects: tradition and innovation. For me, they are two sides of the same coin.

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HOw wOULd yOU dEScrIbE THE LUISa SPagNOLI wOmaN? Our client is a sophisticated woman, always attentive to new fashion trends and the quality/ price ratio. Feminine and practical at the same time, she is a woman who travels and who asks herself and the clothes she wears to be perfect on every occasion. The target audience embraces a wide range, from the middle-aged woman who follows fashion without sacrificing style to the daughter who enters the boutique to advise her, but also chooses for herself.

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Above (from left): two looks from Luisa Spagnoli spring/summer 2020

PHOTO: (BOTTOM LEFT) SaLvaTOrE DragOnE/ gOrunway.cOM

wHaT SETS LUISa SPagNOLI aParT frOm OTHEr ITaLIaN faSHION braNdS? Having maintained family ownership for over 90 years, the desire to continue it differentiates us from many other companies. For me, values such as the continuity of the company that my ancestors created with effort and commitment have helped to bring Luisa Spagnoli to where it is today.

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HOw dO yOU waNT cUSTOmErS TO fEEL wHEN THEy ENTEr THE LUISa SPagNOLI fLagSHIP IN mILaN? In recent years, we have dedicated ourselves to an important restyling of our retail network, which has involved around 35 stores so far. In our boutiques we try to welcome customers in a familiar and friendly environment. The purchase of a garment is often driven by emotion, so the relationship with the sales staff is paramount. Entering Luisa Spagnoli stores is not just about buying a dress or an accessory – above all, it is living a unique shopping experience.

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wHErE dO yOU fINd INSPIraTION fOr yOUr cOLLEcTIONS? I always think of a woman who must be feminine and elegant on every occasion.

I create garments that must last more than one season thanks to the quality of the yarns, the fabrics, and the modern style. I try to take into account not only fashion trends but also the most intimate desires of women.

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wHaT arE THE kEy THEmES IN THE SPrINg/SUmmEr 2020 cOLLEcTION? I was inspired by the world of the desert and the suggestions of Morocco. I imagined a woman who likes to travel, a true globetrotter.

The collection plays skilfully with volumes and takes elements from both masculine and feminine wardrobes, such as oversized suiting and floating taffeta gowns. Monochrome is also a key feature, with polka dot pieces and black and white checks throughout.

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wHIcH cELEbrITy HavE yOU bEEN mOST ExcITEd TO SEE wEarINg yOUr dESIgNS? The Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton, known for her good taste in selecting not only luxury clothing but also premium and more accessible brands.

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wHaT IS yOUr favOUrITE ParT Of yOUr jOb? In addition to being CEO and president of the company, I follow the creative direction, spending most of my time in the style office. globalblue.com

Drawing has always been my great passion, since I was a child. At the age of 10, I designed my first dress. My father then produced it – it was a great thrill to see it on the catwalk six months later.

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wHaT dOES THE fUTUrE HOLd fOr LUISa SPagNOLI? The most important thing is the quality of the products, and the great attention to value for money. On the style side, we have worked hard to offer an increasingly fresh image of the product without distorting our DNA. Having decided to put on seasonal catwalk shows we need to work on different collections every season – the cruise collection and the runway collection have been added to the main collection in recent years. This requires a strong effort at a creative and production level and it has trained us to offer ever more innovative garments for the customer to love.

Luisa Spagnoli, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 69, 20122 Milan, +39 02 805 7577, luisaspagnoli.it H for map go To page 68

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

Milan’s Menswear Renaissance Milan is reclaiming its reputation as a menswear stronghold by charming major players and new talent back to its men’s fashion weeks, as Patrick Clark discovers

Left: David Catalán spring/summer 2020

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n recent years, Milan’s fashion houses have tended more and more towards showing menswear and womenswear together. Now, however, co-ed presentations seem to be on hold. With Salvatore Ferragamo returning to the Milan Fashion Week Men’s schedule, alongside major industry player Gucci, brands are placing increasing emphasis on the menswear weeks, held in January and June.

The city is home to an array of iconic Italian tailoring houses, including famous names such as Brioni, Santoni, Kiton, Ermenegildo Zegna, Canali and Pal Zileri – but the promotion of its menswear showcase has dwindled over past seasons. Even the numbers of days on the shows’ calendars were cut. Now the city is making a clear statement – Milan’s designers are here to celebrate history and to Above (from left): Pal Zileri; Ermenegildo Zegna, both spring/ summer 2020

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PHOTOS: (RIGHT) SALVATORE DRAGONE/GORUNWAY.COM

reinvent menswear in an era where traditions and heritage are no longer sufficient to justify relevance.

The initiative for this comeback was prompted by Carlo Capasa, president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) – the association founded in 1958 to coordinate and promote the interests of Italian fashion nationally and worldwide. Capasa openly called for major players to return to the official calendar of men’s shows for the spring/summer 2020 edition. He proposed a reshuffling of the traditional planning (brands have maintained their slots in the calendar for years), in order to give maximum exposure to young and established brands alike.

After showing his first menswear collection in Florence for Pitti, Paul Andrew – creative Above (both): Salvatore Ferragamo spring/summer 2020

director of Salvatore Ferragamo since February 2019 – stated that he is ‘thrilled to return to Italy’s fashion capital with the autumn/ winter 2020 menswear collection in January.’

The Florentine house is reinventing its own codes and this falls in line with the direction of these proposed changes. ‘Every new season represents a debut and every debut is marked by creative energy: I think that the city of Milan, with its intellectual vitality and vibrant international soul, is the perfect stage,’ says Andrew.

Other brands, including Prada, Gucci, Jil Sander and Iceberg, have joined the ranks of this reconfiguration, keen to underline the importance of menswear in Italy, highlighting that menswear is displaying strength and growth, and that the country is currently the top European fashion exporter.

In an open letter to the CNMI, Marco Bizzarri, president and chief executive officer of Gucci, was enthusiastic that the collaborative incentive offered ‘a vision and experience upon which to build further joint initiatives, Above (both): David Catalán spring/summer 2020

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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keeping the leadership of Made in Italy as the top priority above all other considerations,’ concluding that ‘adding a day to the calendar is the right choice to maximise relevance and prestige, giving back to the men’s fashion shows in Milan the role they deserve on the world’s stage.’

The CNMI not only supports established industry leaders but also young and emerging designers, aiming to diversify its reach and impact. For example, the organisation has been working with Portugal Fashion to host young designers during the men’s fashion week.

Up-and-coming Spanish designer David Catalán showed his spring/summer 2020 collection in Milan in June 2019. ‘I think it is probably the best menswear scene in terms of fashion capitals. To be on the same platform as brands we love, like Sunnei or Neil Barrett, was great,’ Catalán tells SHOP. ‘I’ve presented in a couple of other cities, like Madrid or Istanbul, but in Milan I felt the genuine interest of people in the clothing, from the men mostly. For a more non-conventional brand like mine, it’s important to showcase to people interested in fashion who take risks and want to stand out, so Milan is a perfect fit.’

Other brands that have been a firm fixture on the calendar are reinventing themselves, trading in catwalk formats for more innovative proposals. Family company Canali unveiled a new vision during Milan Fashion Week Men’s last June, apparently in preparation for a transition to a new chapter in the brand’s history. The house presented the Black Edition capsule collection, a more technological rendition of the house’s classic sartorial style, indicating the direction that Canali, alongside others, is probably going to take – more modern, more contemporary, more innovative.

One thing is sure – Italian brands stand together, especially when it comes to defending the Made in Italy hallmark, from which they all benefit and to which they all contribute.

Unity between competing companies may be rare, but Milan’s attitude is testimony to the fact that setting aside market logic for common values is possible – and all the more necessary and urgent in a landscape where competition between fashion capitals is so fierce

•

Above: Canali Black Edition spring/summer 2020

www.10corsocomo.com Corso Como, 10 - 20154 Milano - Italy Every day 10:30 am - 07:00 pm t.+39 02 29013581

La Dolce Vita Shopping for your holiday? Fill your suitcase with timeless Italian classics. Kirsty Welsh recommends the looks that epitomise the country’s vacation chic

PHOTO: JENIFOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Above: the beautiful island of Capri

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o country conjures up the perfect holiday wardrobe quite like Italy. The #italianstyle hashtag had attracted over four million posts on Instagram as of January 2020, and it’s easy to see why: the combination of vivid colour, sun-drenched patterns and the world-class craftsmanship of the Made in Italy benchmark of quality. The picturesque Italian Riviera and the country’s evocative cities also add to the allure: Italy is the location for some of the most stylish summer films ever produced, including La Dolce Vita, Roman Holiday and The Talented Mr Ripley. Italian movie stars such as Sophia Loren radiate glamour; Loren’s signature poolside look teams jewellery and statement shades with turbans and chic one-piece swimsuits.

Italian holiday dressing has a long history of transporting the wearer to instant jet-set status, and an abundance of elegant styles have stood the test of time. Missoni is one example; the brand’s hallmark zigzags date back to 1953 and convert perfectly into bold beachwear.

Whether you combine a classic swimsuit with one of Missoni’s famous kaftans, or opt for a timeless bikini, there is no denying the effortless elegance a Missoni piece can bring.

Abstract multicoloured print powerhouse Emilio Pucci revolutionised poolside fashion Above (from left): Emilio Pucci; missoni, both spring/summer 2020

PHOTO: © GORunway.cOm

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Above: missoni spring/summer 2020

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with geometric patterns and bold use of colour.

If there is one item the brand knows how to execute it is the satin turban, which has become synonymous with the Italian house and is the perfect way to make a seaside statement on the island of Capri.

Complete your vacation look with poolside jewellery for instant Italian Riviera glam. Head to Florentine fine jewellery designer Carolina Bucci for her signature oversized 18-carat yellow gold chain bracelet and hoop earrings, which are simply elegant, expertly crafted and easy to layer – a Carolina Bucci piece can instantly transform any look.

From the initial sketches to the final beautifully crafted products, quality footwear is embedded in Italy’s DNA. Its impeccably made, globally renowned names are considered wardrobe staples all over the world, from Gucci’s classic loafers and Tod’s driving shoes to the graceful silhouettes of Aquazzura’s heels.

For understated elegance and an investment to treasure for years to come, head to Bottega Veneta and discover the brand’s sandals, which are expertly crafted in soft Italian leather, resulting in sublime comfort and good looks.

If you opt for pool sliders, make them a Gucci logo-embossed pair, and pad round the pool in style.

No chic vacation ensemble is complete without a Prada wicker and canvas basket bag to hold all your beach essentials while you explore. Constructed using woven wicker and embellished with the iconic leather and metal Prada logo, the bag has a detachable shoulder Above (from left): Emilio Pucci spring/summer 2020; Carolina Bucci Florentine finish links bracelet

VISIT OUR MILAN BOUTIQUE VIA CROCE ROSSA 20121

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strap that’s very useful when you want to go hands-free to capture the scenery on camera.

At Milan Fashion Week spring/summer 2020, the logo trend showed no sign of abating.

No Italian brand does a monogram print quite like Fendi, whose instantly recognisable logo has transformed the brand’s sunglasses this season with neon yellow accents combined with tortoiseshell frames and decorated with the famous double F – equally as ideal for the beach as for the streets of Milan.

When the sun sets in Rome, do as the Romans do, show some serious Italian flair, and throw a pastel-toned, oversized Miu Miu cardigan around your shoulders.

Our highlight from the spring/summer 2020 Miu Miu collection is the lemon sherbet pearl-embellished creation in a cashmere and mohair finish.

Finally, why not capture the beauty of the sublime Italian scenery and fresh Mediterranean ingredients with fragrance house Acqua di Parma? Founded in 1916, the brand evokes the essence of the Italian Riviera with its Blu Mediterraneo range. Each fragrance in the collection is named after and

influenced by an Italian destination. Arancia di Capri conjures up the citrus groves of Capri, while Mandorlo di Sicilia transports the wearer to Sicily, and Cipresso di Toscana, the latest Blu Mediterraneo addition, was inspired by the landscapes of Tuscany. The perfumes are conveniently bottled in travel-friendly sizes, the perfect way to take home a scented souvenir of your Italian escape

•

Above (clockwise from bottom): Aquazzura; Miu Miu; Prada, all spring/summer 2020; Acqua di Parma Arancia di Capri eau de toilette

PHOTO: (bOTTOM) MARCO LAMbRI

Classic Italian style offers instant jet-set status

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TABLE TALK Keen to try regional Italian cuisine?

If you’re visiting Milan, you don’t need to leave the city. Ginger Rose Clark rounds up some key addresses to know

Italian food has a fine reputation overall – but, as anyone who has travelled the country will know, each region has its own distinct culinary identity and very particular specialities. This can be directly linked to the country’s history: Italy is a young nation, only unified in 1861 into the territory we see on maps today.

As a consequence, regional identity continues to stand strong and naturally finds its expression in local cuisine. Saffron-infused risotto alla Milanese; cacio e pepe cheese and pepper pasta from Rome; fave e cicoria bean puree with chicory, which epitomises Puglia’s cucina povera – regional dishes such as these are very much rooted in their original landscapes. Milan is home to many restaurants that celebrate these regional roots. globalblue.com

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RATANÀ Ratanà celebrates the food of Milan and Lombardy. Head chef Cesare Battisti works according to the principles of Slow Food and seasonality, using ingredients that have been carefully sourced from small-scale producers and artisans. The à la carte menu comprises iconic local dishes such as Milanese-style risotto and ossobuco (braised veal) or Milanese tripe, as well as a roster of dishes that change with the seasons. There’s also a tasting menu, designed as a sensorial journey, which is available with a wine pairing. Ratanà’s wine selection, curated by sommelier Federica Fabi, comprises over 600 different options, with a focus on small to medium-sized producers. Ratanà takes traditional Lombardian food and presents it in a modern way: the result is a love letter to the local territory.

Ratanˆ, Via Gaetano de Castillia 28, 20124 Milan, +39 02 8712 8855, ratana.it

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DA ZERO Da Zero transports you to the south of Italy – to Cilento, to be precise. The pizzeria celebrates this region of the Salerno province to the south of Naples, and creates food according to the Slow Food precepts. This means that its core ingredients – such as olive oil with the DOP certification of quality, salt from Trapani, or artichokes sourced from the Cilentan area – have been grown or produced with the utmost care. Besides the ingredients local to Cilento, you’ll also find local specialities such as fried pizza dough served with the famous Cilentan tomato sauce, or Cilentan potato croquettes. When it comes to pizza, at Da Zero you’ll be spoiled for choice: alongside the classics, you’ll also find some with a distinctive Cilentan twist, such as the Bufalina, topped with tomato sauce, Campana DOP buffalo mozzarella and basil, or the Tonno e Ammaccate, laden with fior di latte soft cheese, tuna, caramelised onions and bruised olives from Salella. There are two Da Zero restaurants in Milan; one is a short walk from Via Montenapoleone, making it a perfect spot for lunchtime respite from sightseeing and shopping.

Da Zero, Via Bernardino Luini 9, 20123 Milan, +39 02 8352 9189; Via dell’Orso 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8341 9934, cominciadazero.com

FRATELLI TORCINELLI

Fratelli Torcinelli, Corso di Porta Vigentina 38, 20122 Milan, +39 02 3651 5075, fratellitorcinelli.it

Fratelli Torcinelli is the latest venture from the team behind acclaimed restaurant Trippa. This small, casual eatery takes its inspiration from a Puglian culinary tradition: fornello pronto is the name given to local butchers who not only sell meat, but also prepare and grill it on site for customers. Fratelli Torcinelli captures the essence and simplicity of this tradition, staying true to the original concept of highquality meat, skewered, then grilled, and cleverly adapting it to a contemporary, Milanese setting.

Besides meaty dishes that change weekly, the menu is based around three main pillars: zampina, a sausage made from beef and pork; bombette, pork neck that has been breaded, rolled and skewered; and last but not least, torcinelli, rolls of lamb offal, the dish that gives the restaurant its name. Opt for these classics with a side of vegetables or have them served in a panino with garnishes of your choice.

PHOTO: R.NAGY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

MILAN GUIDE

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Milan with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, including our selection of top Italian fashion and accessory boutiques. Don’t miss the city centre with its ultra-modern financial district and historic statues.

Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com.

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Ferrari The fashion collections of one of Italy’s biggest auto names lend a sporty, urban touch to any wardrobe.

Ferrari, Via Berchet 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4949 0815, ferrari.com

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PennyBlack, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II/Piazza del Liberty, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 8899, pennyblack.com

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Doucal’s, Via Gesù 15, 20121 Milan, +30 02 7601 3732, doucals.com

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● SUPERGA SAMSONITE ● MAURO LEONE ● CONTIGO ● ● SANDRO FERRONE BOSE ● ● MARCO CASHMIRINO ● FOR PETS ONLY ●

VI A SA

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LA

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Department Store

SAN

AL

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Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

ZEPTER ● INTERNATIONAL

Piazza San Carlo

● BROOKS BROTHERS

YOUNG VERSACE ●

E

GH

LA

A

Gelateria

Global Blue Retailer

C. MAT TEO T T I

SAN BABILA

VI

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COR SO MAT TEO

LENOVO ●

TT A

GU

BA

A

CO

RS

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EU

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PA

VI A D U RIN I

● RAY BAN ● BROSWAY

LO

FOOTBALL TEAM ●

● DIMENSIONE DANZA

● BOGGI ● BALDININI TREND

PA O

SIGNOR VINO ● LUSH ●

CO

RS

STONE ISLAND ●

SAN

Rinascen te FFAE L E

GA

L

A

VI

● CAMICISSIMA ● SISLEY ● INTER STORE IRERI ● NYX FIRENZE ● ● ACCESSORIZE ● DIESEL ● NBA GEOX ● TRUSSARDI O’BAG ● ● URBAN OUTFITTERS ● JEANS ● TIMBERLAND ● TWIN SET ● THE NORTH SAILS KIKO ● ● LUISA SPAGNOLI P.40 SWATCH ● ● MILAN MEGA STORE GOBBI 1842 ● ● MICHAEL KORS COCCINELLE ● ● PINKO ● DISNEY SWAROVSKI ● ● LIU JO ZARA ● THE HIGHLINE T O MEN ● ● FOOT LOCKER ’OR ALL ● GAP ZARA ● TRO ● ADIDAS . P IE CALZEDONIA ● V. S ● OTTICA CRISAFULLI ● TEZENIS UNITED COLORS ● PULL & BEAR OF BENETTON ● ● SEPHORA IS ● BERSHKA I S TO F O R IA DE CR ● MANGO G A LL ER ● KIKO ID MAX MARA ● MAX & CO ● ● MOTIVI PENNYBLACK ● ● GOLDEN POINT I BLUES ● ● SOLARIS MARELLA ● ● YAMAMAY MARINA RINALDI ● ● CISALFA

VIA

ORE

LL E DE

A

VI

APPLE ●

VI

● ISAIA JIL ● FEDELI SANDER ● ● BAGUTTA BOGLIOLI ● ● IL GUFO MASCHIO ● PIN-UP ● ● ASPESI POMELLATO ● ● EDDY MONETTI

V I A SA N TA TE C L A

E II

UEL

VIA S AN RA

OD STORE ●

DUOMO

C

AR

TO R

VIT

SO OR

Piazza San Carlo

SELECTED BRANDS IN RINASCENTE: Hugo Bottega Veneta P.28

AN

INTIMISSIMI ● ● NARA CAMICIE OTTICA ● SAN CARLO CELIO ● ● LIBERO MILANO TISSOT ● V I A SAN C L E M EN T E RI V IA PAT TA ● MATHEUS ● PK ● ALCOTT-GUTTERIDGE ● CARPISA & OTHER STORIES ● ● FALCONERI INGLOT ● ● INTIMISSIMI MISS SIXTY ● NARA CAMICIE ● FURLA ●

Cioccolati Italiani

SALMOIRAGHI & ● VIGANO'

Piazza San Babila

● LOLITA

Piazza Liberty

SAN BABILA

CO RS O MATT EO TT I ● CLARKS ● NESPRESSO

Piazza Meda

M IO E

OTTICA VANZINA ● Y NOT ? ● H&M ● ROCCA 1974 ●

VI

OV

EN

EZ

IA

68 | G U I D E

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Via San Pietro all’Orto & Via Torino

S H O P | 69

PIazza San BaBIla arEa Piazza San Babila, Corso Matteotti & Via Bigli Corso Venezia & Corso Europa

VI

RA I I M TA ON LIA DI N I BI N O DI P DE S DI P TIC E T P E C BIG A IN LU A TIN ND UL LI ● L MAR E T C A IA V A CE RO NT I ● VI M NT L ● TT IL E I OR M M O SA N OR ●● AT C IO IA A ● O M 'S ● R IM A P RC N ● SA H V IA TH ES VI TO VI UN I ● M EN B ● ● NE T BE OL RE IN L W H NC OT DE ES E FL SIR I ● O TI BE T W E X E ● CA R X O VE NA OD ● Ta N R ● LI EZ DI ● r ● & F tu V I fi EL F O FA R N O R I A N A ● IG rien RN M IE I ● O A S AC M ● M ds EA I R IL A ET RO AN ND ● T ’A I● BE MA O DO NT RT LL LC SA O O A DO E& FE NI VI LC ST ● GA E& D A BB Ba ● GA OL AN r ● ARMAN I CASA A FL BB CE & M a ● r ti AV A N G ● STONE ISLAND KIDS A A n I O NE ● ANTON ELLI FIRENZ E CA BAR BBA i RO ST BI NA ● ALFIER I ST.JOH N GI NER EL ER ● AR O LA E ● ● WOLFO RD DI GIA NI N R ● I P DO ● GAGÀ MILAN O JU DIN LC HILI NI ● ROY ROGER S OR I ● E & PP ● M DIEGO GA PLE ● IN BB ● ULTIMA EDIZIO NE ● A M OR C NA SA EMPRE ● W OO ESC OS ● ● NOMIN ATION ● CR LRIC HI ● ● CHRIST OFLE OM H ● JACKER SON IA ● ● VILLA NECCHI ● BEATR ICE B H ZA CAMPIGLIO O OM R ● RED VALEN TINO L I YS E A CO VI A H O ● N NT A ● ● I● ● FL OS LU CE PL AN

A

O

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VIA

IAN

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VIA ANSELMO RONCHETTI

TRO ’O R ALL

MILANO OFFICIAL ● STORE

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● SUITSU PPLY ● ICF ● MAZZO LARI ● FIGINI

SAN

● ESCADA ● JUST CAVALLI

● UNIFOR ● RODO ● MORONI GOMMA

V IA

● BORBONESE

TO

NORTH SAILS ● NBA ● LUXURY TIMBERLAND ● LIVING ● TRUSSARDI JEANS ● MERITALIA ● STONE FLY ● COLOMBO STYLE ● AVIREX ● LUXURY LIVING ● PAUL TAYLOR ● MYPOS ● FENDI CASA ● DEL MARE ● ● MARGHERITA ● ● JUVENTUS STORE

Brian & Barry Building San Babila

● GALLO ● SMOKE ● LIBERO MILANO ● NATUZZI ● CASSINA

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LE M MA RZ IA VIA

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Pavé

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Restaurant

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CORSO EUROPA ● EMPORIO CASA I

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Café

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GERVASONI ●

B&B ITALIA

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EU

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ITTALA ●

ARTEM IDE ● FONTA NA ARTE ●

BOSS STORE ● ROBERTO FESTA ●

MAZZOLARI ● TIMBERLAND ● TUMI ●

P.74

Sant'Ambroeus Bar

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HARMONT & BLAINE ●

FERUTDIN ZAKIROV ●

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Piazza San Carlo

JOAQUIN BERAO ●

SE

Metro

O N FO RT

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CO R S O M

● LEGO ● SALMOIRAGHI VIGANÒ ● SPADA ● RAY-BAN ● FLORSHEIM ● BROSWAY Piazza ● BOGGI San Babila ● NESPRESSO ● BALDININI TREND ● MAZZOLARI ● CAMICISSIMA ● VANNUCCI ● DIESEL

MO

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● NELLA LONGARI ● ULTURALE ● BEHOUSE ● D MAGAZINE ● ASPESI

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● BIGLI 24 ● CODECASA GIOIELLI LA CARAMELLA ● D'ORO CLOTH ● DORMEUIL

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70 | G U I D E

MONTENAPOLEONE AREA Via Sant’Andrea, Via Pietro Verri & Piazza Meda, Via Gesù, Via Borgospesso & Via Santo Spirito A

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MI.MI.SOL. ● MODICA MILANO ● GREYMER ●

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● MONTEGRAPPA ● FABBRICATORE ● SCHREIBER ● PORADA TURRI ● ● INBORGOSPESSO 18 ● CORNELIO CAPPELLINI BOTTEGA VENETA ● GALLUCCI HOME ● ● ALTOMANI & SONS ● MAISON SIBULET Drogheria ● GALLERIA SILVA LOUIS MICHAIL Parini ● LUCIA ODELSCALCHI ● MALVEZZI ● SOLO BLU

VI

A

BO

VI

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JF LONDON ● RO OTTICA S.SPIRITO ● SSA AGRESTI ● RI WALTER PADOVANI ZIMMERMANN ● ● ANTIQUARIO ISABEL MARANT ● ● DAAD DANTONE ANTIQUARIATO BENSI ● ● CARLO TIVIOLI O ● NEIL BARRETT ANDREA GHELLI ● T I SIMONETTA RAVIZZA ● I R ● CELINE P GIANVITO ROSSI ● S ● DROME COLLINI ● TO ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE Global Blue Lounge A N ● PAROSH SÙ S CHANTECLER ● GE A ● IL BISONTE A STELLA VI V I ● N° 21 MCCARTNEY ● ● MANDELLI VI

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LARDINI ● BARBA NAPOLI ● CAIATI FINE ARTS ● ORIENTAL ART ● MARINO FOSSATI ● DOUCAL'S ● ROSALBA ● KITON ● SILVANO LATTANZI ● LUCIANO BARBERA ● Ù BARRETT ● ES TINCATI ● DORIANI CASHMERE ● I A G ZILLI ● V STEFANO RICCI ● PIANEGONDA ● RUBINACCI ● GOYARD ● ACQUA DI PARMA ●

RS

Piazza Croce Rossa

CO

VI

RG

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● I O UT R IN ● RL DE CH A B E A N Y TA OS AD ● L S AV M I A R S TA M ● PR T JI N RE M TIS ● ● P & T EN RA TO IU ● ● M R B AL I Z U UR NA ● IAM AL A Z L L A IU M EL SE T V U E G ● A M IN VI OD S ● AQ A N M ND ● SA AN ● CH LG T E R A A ● O AR ZM R PP BR VIE IG ● NE LI I ● U IT E A SP I V A RY I ● ET ST E NN OM W H W R P O I T LL XU GE VEN NA ● ● BA A R E OT A O N DE TH BR A ● E S CI W B LU RO ● A NO ’S ● VI C PA I M O R A N I 70 LA EG AG R C H H Y IL ● R IA A ● TT U I C ● C H O R I AOV CH EN AN I ● BO ● D A C V GI ARM TER ● ● GU T T ● A ● A EU EL O ● NI IA AB VI EL GI SO OR O AR LIN IS M A ● RL M M ME A N RS E ● CA O ● LL SO BO PR SI ES Y ON T AI TO M LE ER M ● LE GE ’OR O I IA J I MO O ● ALL R TRO A P ● P U CC D E N P IE CH EI E N N D G SA N 6 VIA ● EX AQUE SA TE P.3 CA ON E ● AL MC O M IPP A ● ● NI ER LL IA IL IS A ● IO ND RE V PH -P RI I ● BR S A DY M O K TIN E M ● 2 TE N OG FU JIL D IE ● FRE NK RED PA S TA R O L R O P A N A I O ● U FR LI IN CO A RO Q G S I T I S ● AD D AB ON P E VI ● PA L ER IC ● CH ● ER E VA ZA ED LL OR FR MA SF ● O M ● SI RD AS FO T ● M M PE ● TO U LI LO LI AO J NP NA SA CA VIA INI ● DIN BAL Y● NT ● VE EL E T ICO T O O ANO ● NT PU I MIL NZ NI ● RE LLA STE CA

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● ATTOLINI ● ISSEY MIYAKE ● DELVAUX ZANELLATO ● ● L’ARTISAN PARFUMEU R OLD AMERICA ● ● MR & MRS ITALY

COR SO MAT TEO

TTI

CO RS O MO

NF OR TE

SAN BABILA

Piazza San Carlo

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Metro

Global Blue Lounge

Restaurant

Piazza San Babila

Featured In This Issue

72 | G U I D E

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LA PERLA Italian lingerie label La Perla epitomises quality.

Specialising in immaculately crafted intimate apparel and swimwear, the brand has stood the test of time since 1954. Whether you are heading to a private beach club in Capri this summer, lounging by the pool, or relaxing on a luxury yacht, La Perla’s Anemone swimsuit is imbued with femininity and elegance, making this an essential one-piece to pack in your suitcase. The cleverly constructed halterneck design, with a deep plunging neckline, a La Perla engraved buckle loop and a floral cut-out motif that sits below the waist, ensures a beautifully flattering look. KW La Perla, Via Montenapoleone 14, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0460, laperla.com Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Café

Restaurant

Metro

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 73

SPIGA & VIA MANZONI AREA Via della Spiga

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74 | G U I D E

7 FOR ALL MANKIND Popular American denim brand 7 For All Mankind celebrates two decades of success this season by relaunching its bestselling 080 Bootcut jean. The denim style that saw the brand go from LA label to international fashion darling beloved of everyone from Emma Stone to Ryan Reynolds is available on limited release, so there’s never been a better time to add a pair to your wardrobe.

The brand’s spring/summer collection is the first from new creative director Simon James Spurr, who previously worked at Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein. The range boasts structured, clean tailoring and classic denim fits in an array of washes, as well as shirts and shorts for balmy summer days. The olive green boiler suit is an ideal trans-seasonal wardrobe staple. FM 7 For All Mankind, Via Alessandro Manzoni 43, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4950 4363, 7forallmankind.com

Reinforcing its commitment to sustainability, Tumi’s Merge line from its spring/summer 2020 collection is its first travel range made using recycled materials. Merge cases are available in classic black, deep blue and a silver colourway with neon yellow accents – the latter is a striking alternative if you’re looking to stand out in the first class lounge. Case exteriors are made of post-industrial recycled nylon, and interiors of recycled plastic bottles. Elsewhere in the latest range, you’ll find the Turin collection of backpacks and a briefcase in striking black croc-effect leather. The Alpha 3 line offers everything from carry-ons and four-wheeled cases to toiletry bags and even a pouch for your tech cables. Whether your next trip is a city break or long haul, pack with Tumi. FM Tumi, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 4831, tumi.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69 globalblue.com

PHOTO: (TOP) TOMASO LISCA; (BOTTOM) JOE ANDRIS

TUMI

S H O P | 75

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Place Of Interest

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Featured In This Issue

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76 | G U I D E

DANTE & MAGENTA AREA Corso Magenta

Via Dante

● TIGER ● PETALI MANESCALCHI ●

ZANI VIAGGI, MILAN VISITOR CENTRE ●

WATCH HUNTERS ● M.C.M. SANTA MARIA NOVELLA ● ERA L'ORA ●

RO

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● ELENA MIRÒ ● CANETTA ● GUESS ● KOCCA ● MUSTO ● WOMO ● FAST WEB ● CESAR IMPERIAL

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LENZUOLISSIMI ● OTTICA VIGEVANO ● D’AUGUSTA GIOIELLI ● ON MARCO ● EG R I NASHI ARGAN ● YAMAMAY ● UNIGLO ●

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C O R SO M A GEN TA

DESIRÈE PROFUMERIA ● MAX MARA ● ZARA ●

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● PAOLO TONALI

● BATA ● ALDO CITTERIO

● GIOIELLI DI VALENZA ● PELLETTERIA RICCARDI ● VODAFONE ● OROLOGERIA AL DUOMO ● SAVINELLI ● LE SCARPE DI PAOLO ● BLU SAND

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● ZUCCA STREGATA COLTELLERIA ● LORENZI MILANO ● ERBARIO ● ATELIER LES ARTS ● CAMICISSIMA ● GREAT MASTERS OF TIME ● PELLINI ● M. BARDELLI

● CURIOSITÀ ESOTICHE ● EE ERCOLESSI ● BUSCEMI ● CHICCHE DI CALZE ● BANG & OLUFSEN

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Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 77

CORSO COMO, GAE AULENTI & BRERA AREA Piazza Gae Aulenti, Corso Como & Corso Garibaldi STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI GARIBALDI FS

LA FELTRINELLI SWATCH ● ● READ EAT DREAM ● AIRNESS ● NEW BALANCE

SELECTED STORES IN STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI: Hugo Calzedonia Foot Locker La Feltrinelli Lama Optical Tally Weijl Tezenis

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MAISO N MARGI ELA ● GCDS ● CHIAR A FERRA GNI ● I L EL ● O CHRIS TIAN LOUBO UTIN ● R AP ● ● MOSCH INO ● V. C● ● T J U S O L O CO U T G A LM V I ● L E S M I C AV E R A D ID DS AR AL IA L HO AS ● Q LI UI P IN UA M M G CANN S A N D KO ● RE E IV VI A B IS S R D E A O RG 2 STO R ● CA A RL E● O

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DS & DURGA This season Brooklyn-based hipster perfume brand DS & Durga helps you lose yourself in Sicilian orange groves and the freshness of coastal air. The label’s Italian Citrus fragrance transports you on the gentle breezes that sweep through Italy’s fruitful countryside.

Citrus top notes, including blood orange and chinotto, spark headiness and warmth, while a soft musk ambrette base roots you in earthiness, celebrating the beauty of this unique country. Spritz this delightful scent and embrace the carefree attitude of the Italians while exploring the bustle of Milan. FM 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, dsanddurga.com Shopping Centre/Mall

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GLI ORI DI BOLOGNA ● SELETTI ● ● 120X100 ● VINTAGE WATCHES MILANO MANILA GRACE ● ● ARTEST MICHELE LOPRIORE ● ● SPAZIO 23 BUTTERO ● ● ASAP ● WOMO ● DERMALOGICA ● BERGOMI

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78 | G U I D E

Via Solferino & Via Brera

Corso Garibaldi, Via Ponte Vetero & Via Madonnina I

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AMINA RUBINACCI ●

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LIBERO MILANO ● OLLY ● MES DEMOISELLES ● THE STORE ●

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BOFFI SOLFERINO ● FALIERO SARTI ●

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THE MERCHANT ● OF VENICE ● VINTAGE CAVALLI E NASTRI ● IL GERGO ● CAMPOMARZIO70 ● ATELIER COLOGNE

VIA DELL’ORSO

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Via Cusani & Via Dell’Orso

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DIPTYQUE ● METROCITY ●

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SEVENTY ● BLU DEEP ● GIOIELLI MERÙ ● PESERICO ● ST. BARTH ● GINGER GIOIELLI ● LO SFIZIO ● MALI PARMI ● LE PANDORINE ● MANUEL RITZ ● SOLFERINO MARKET ● L'ARTIGIANO DI BRERA ● OTTOD'AME ● CIO

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CITTÀ DEL SOL E ● BAL LER ETT E ● ● B E N HEA MY STY LE BAG S ● ● RT J ● MA S M IN O N T E M IL EZE M O LA N O TES CO MA ● O ● IN MO LES KIN E ● A ● NO RT DES SA LEWA ● IG N VIA ● R IP R IE M PA L ERM O ● F IG A ● C A U S D E S IG ● GA PEBEST NER R IB A ● P IN LDI 4 F** K ● 4 O ● LG T TI R ●M Y LO OX ● ● G U F R AG R ANC MID INE TTE ● M ES ● MARCO LE CR EU SET ● ● JO GIOIELLI

● BISAZ ZA VIA SOLFERINO

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80 | G U I D E

CORSO BUENOS AIRES AREA VI

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FOOT LOCKER ● ● FREDDY L'OCCITANE ● ● OLTRE ELENA MIRO ● IA ● MORELLATO STROILI ORO ● ● WAKE UP COSMETICS GEOX ● ● DANIEL & MAYER VI AG SWAROVSKI ● ● ANTONY MORATO IO YAMAMAY ● VA ● TWIN SET NN ● LEVI’S IO M ● HAVAIANAS BO NI NARA CAMICIE ● ● AERONAUTICA MILITARE CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● ● KIPLING O T S ● CARRERA JEANS AMO D A EC ● NIKE MILANO LV IS VIA A DMAIL ● BIALETTI ● Piazza Santa I AM ● ● NOVE25 Francesca Romana GAMESTOP ● ● PIQUADRO STRADIVARIUS ● ● GUESS KIDS ● GUESS VI MUTINELLI CAPPELLI ● AL ER FOSSIL ● EG VI IN AL ● H&M BLUEKIDS ● AG ER IO EG GRANDVISION ● VA ● SAN PIETRO MILANO IN NN AG KIKO ● A IO VA PEPE JEANS ● NN A ● F.LLI SOLENNE GIOIELLI AF

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Milan is known for its expertly crafted accessories, so a store like Musto is well worth exploring on your trip. With a 30-year heritage of specialising in leather goods and footwear, the brand has two boutiques offering an array of labels for men and women, including the bright and bold designs of Braccialini, on point trainers from Barracuda and Fabi, Oxfords and loafers

by Roberto Botticelli and skyscraping heels from Liu Jo. Whether you’re in the market for a new belt, bag or boot, Musto will cater to your accessory needs. SM Musto, Via Alessandro Manzoni 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0443 H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 75 Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

ME

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Global Blue Retailer

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day trip FiDeNZa villaGe Only 60 minutes from Milan and Bologna and 20 minutes from Parma, located in the heart of Italy’s Food and Motor Valleys, discover more than 120 boutiques from Italian and international brands, all offering reductions of up to 70%.

Fidenza Village, Via Federico Fellini 1, 43036 Fidenza, +39 0524 33551, fidenzavillage.com

MILANO PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA

OpEning TimES MondaySunday: 10am-8pm

E35 A1

Fidenza Village

How to Get tHere By car Exit the A1 motorway at Fidenza/ Salsomaggiore. Pass the toll booth and Fidenza Village is 100 metres on your left.

By Train Fidenza station is on the direct line into Milano Centrale with frequent services and a journey time of around 60 minutes.

PHOTO: © federicOavanzini.cOm

By Shopping Express The Shopping Express luxury coach service runs from Piazza della Repubblica (angolo Via Turati) to Fidenza Village daily at 9.45am.

Outlet village

Bus Station

Hospitality

information centre • Tourist and cafés • Restaurants cards • Gift Wi-Fi all around the Village • Free service and private lounge • Concierge (booking for a group on request) area (for a minimum of 10 people, • Lounge subject to availability)

Guest services shopping • Hands-free storage • Luggage delivery service • Worldwide programmes • Frequent-flyer parking • Valet transfer (to be pre-booked) • Luxury • Personal shoppers

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Opening times MondaySunday: 10am-8pm

Day trIp SerrAVALLe DeSIgner oUtLet The largest and most successful designer outlet in Italy, Serravalle Designer Outlet boasts 240 stores, cafés and restaurants, as well as a range of guest services. serravale Designer Outlet, Via della Moda 1, 15069 Serravalle, +39 0143 609000, mcarthurglen.it/serravalle

MILAN

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Serravalle Designer Outlet

ShoP YoUr heArt oUt how to get there By car From Milan, take the A7 until you see the exit for Serravalle Scrivia. Take the exit and follow signs for Serravalle Designer Outlet. The journey takes around an hour.

By shuttle bus The popular shuttle bus service takes customers from downtown Milan to Serravalle seven times a day.

Outlet Village

From classic designer staples to stylish trend essentials, choose from Armani, Coach, guess and many more.

MAKe A DAY oF It From free Wi-Fi and hands-free shopping to our tax refund office and international delivery, you can make the most of your shopping trip with everything taken care of.

treAt YoUr tASteBUDS Whether it’s a sweet delight, hearty meal or simply a coffee you’re after, there’s plenty on the menu at Farinella, Obicà and many more.

CINZIAROCCA.COM

STORE MILANO Via Senato, 45

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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form.

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your Tax Free Forms stamped before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

Spend a minimum of €154.95 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Office Details Malpensa Airport: Terminal 1, Departures check-in, Area 12, second floor Terminal 1, Area A Schengen (after security control), first floor Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Linate Airport: Forexchange Maccorp, Departures Downtown Milan: Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer service desk), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

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How To Get Your Tax Refund At The Store Request a Tax Free Form.

Please note: when completing the Tax Free Form, retailers may ask you for the information below, due to the new Otello 2.0 legislation.

• • • • • • •

First name Surname Country of residence Date of birth Identity document Passport number* Passport issuing country

*Swiss customers can present an identity card instead of a passport

If you do not provide the information above, you will not be able to obtain a Tax Free Form.

At The Point Of Departure Please follow the instructions at the airport.

ITALY’S MAIN AIRPORTS (Rome Fiumicino T3, Milan Malpensa T1, Florence Peretola, Venice Marco Polo): Items in check-in luggage Go to a Global Blue Refund Office or kiosk for electronic validation and refund BEFORE check-in.

Items in hand luggage Go to a Global Blue Refund Office or Customs AFTER security control for electronic validation and refund.

You can go to a Global Blue Refund Office/Customs up to four hours before your departure time.

Kiosk

Follow the instructions on the screen and your refund will be paid to your credit card within five days.

Other Italian And EU Airports

Go to Customs and get your validation BEFORE check-in.

Go to a Refund Office displaying the Global Blue logo, or mail your stamped and completed Tax Free Form(s) back to Global Blue in the envelope provided, and get your refund paid to your credit card within three weeks.

NO CUSTOMS VALIDATION = NO REFUND

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中文翻译

42: MILAN’s MENsWEAR RENAIssANCE 米兰男装大复兴 凭借魅力十足的主流时尚品牌 和 新生才 俊，米 兰男装周获得世人瞩目，并 使 米 兰 这座城市 重 揽男装霸主的声 誉。Patrick Clark报 道 近年来，米 兰的时装 公司越 来越倾向于将男装 和女 装一 起 展 示。但 是 现 在，男女同台献 艺的 趋 势 似乎又被叫停。随 着Salvatore Ferragamo重 返 米 兰男装 周的秀 场，与行业 大咖 Gucci一 起 并 肩献 艺，各 家品牌越 来越 重 视1月和 6月举 行的 男装 周。 米 兰 历来 是男装 圣 地，拥有 数 量 众多的意 大 利偶 像 级西装品牌如Brioni、Santoni、Kiton、 杰尼 亚（Ermenegildo Zegna）、Canali、和 Pal Zileri等，但在 过去的几个时装季里，男装 周的 营 销 推 广 势 头有所减 弱，甚至 连秀 场 排 期 的天 数都 减 少了。现 在，这 座城 市 郑重声明 — — 米 兰的设 计师们 就 在 这 里 庆祝 其 时尚渊源，立 足 于 这个不 仅仅只 看传 统 和遗留文化的时代，重 塑 男装 新 境 界。 上图：Salvatore Ferragamo 2020春夏

这 种 卷土 重 来的趋 势 获得意 大 利时装商会 （CNMI）主 席Carlo Capasa先 生 的 极 大支 持。 该 协 会成 立于1958年，致力于在 全国和 全 球范 围内协调并 推动 意 大 利时尚行业 的发 展。Capasa先 生公 开 呼 吁业内领先品牌回家来 参 与2020年春夏男装 周的主 场秀。他 提议 对男 装 周的传 统日程 重 新 规 划（很多品牌 在 展 示日 程中的时间段已 经多年不 变），以便 最大 程 度 地让年 轻 和知名品牌共同受 益。 自2 019年2月起 担任Sa lvatore Fer r a g a mo 创意总监的Pau l A nd rew，在佛罗伦萨的P it t i 男装展 上推出自己第一批男装系列后，表 示他“ 很高兴能在1月份带 着2 02 0 年秋冬男装系列重 返 意大利的时尚之都。”这家佛罗伦萨品牌正在 重 新塑造自己的形象，恰与这些拟议更改的方 向保 持 一致。A nd rew先 生说：“每 个 新季节都 有新作首次亮相，而每一次 新作亮相都昭示 着 创造力的迸 发：我 认为米兰这座城市，凭借其智 慧活力和生机勃勃的国际化精神，是完美的展 示舞台。” 包括Prada、Gucci、Jil Sander和 Iceberg在内 的其他品牌 也 加入了此次 重 组行 动。品牌们 都 十分清 楚男装 在 意 大 利的 重要 性，并 强调男装 正在 展现实力 和增 长趋 势，而意 大 利目前正是 欧 洲 顶 级时尚出口商。 Gucci总 裁 兼 首席执 行官Marco Bizzarri先 生在 致 意 大 利时 装商会 的 一 封公 开 信中热 情

照片: Salvatore Dragone/gorunway.com

TRANsLATIONs

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地 表 示，这 种 齐 心 协力 的 发 展 方 向 提 供了 “ 愿 景 和 经 验 ，以 建 立 进 一 步 的 联 合 行 动，并 搁 置 其 他 疑 思 杂 虑，将 保 持 ‘ 意 大 利 制 造 ’ 的 领 导 地 位 作 为 头 等大事 ”。他 在 信 中总 结 道 “ 在 秀 场日 程 上 增 加 一 天 是 正 确 的 选 择 ，不 仅 在 最 大 程 度 上 提 升了 时 装 周 的 相 关 性 和 声 望 ， 更 使 米 兰男 装 秀 重 新 获 得 其 在 世 界 舞 台上 应 有 的 地 位 。” 意 大 利时装商会不 仅支 持成 熟 的行业领导 者，而且 还支 持 年 轻 和新兴的设 计师，旨在 使 男装 周的受 众 和 影响多样 化。例 如，该 组 织一 直 在与葡 萄牙时装 展Portugal Fashion合作，在 男装 周期间接 待 年 轻 设 计师 前来展 示作品。 西 班 牙设 计 新秀D av id C at a l á n于2 019 年 6月在 米兰展 示了他的2 02 0 年春夏系列。他告 诉S HOP杂志，“ 在 几个时尚之都中，我 认为这 里可以说是男装展 示的最佳 平台。能 够与 Su n n e i 或 Ne i l B a r r e t t 等我们喜爱的品牌同台 献艺真是太棒了。我曾在马德里或伊斯 坦布尔 等其他 几个城 市展出过，但在 米兰我能感受到 人们 对服 装的那种真正兴趣，尤其来自男性。对 于像我 这 样的非传 统品牌来说，向真正 对时尚 感兴趣的人 展 示非常 重要，因为他们通常要求 自己形 象出众，并愿意冒险，因此 米兰是完美的 选 择。” 其他 在 秀 场日程 上有长期固定位 置 的品牌 也 正在 重 塑自我，把 更富创意的形式带上秀 场 T台。家 族 企 业Canali在去 年 6月的米 兰男装 周 上 宣 布了新 的愿景，显 然是为 过渡 到品牌历史 上 的新 篇章做准 备。该品牌展 示了 Black Edition 胶 囊 系列，以 更具 技 术含 量 的手法 表 达 该品牌 的经典剪裁 风 格，表明Canali和其他品牌一样， 可能会朝 着更 摩登，更 现代，更具创新 性 的 方 向发 展。 可以肯定 的是，意 大 利品牌同心协力，尤其 是在 捍 卫“意 大 利制造”的声 誉上。业内所有人 都 会为之做 出贡献，并从中受 益。竞 争 公司之间 的团结 协 作可能很 少见，但 米 兰的态度 证明了 这 样 一 个事 实，即 可以为共同利益 抛弃 市场 逻 辑，而 在 几大时尚之都 相互竞 争如此激烈的情 况下，这变得更 加必 要和紧迫。

50: LA DOLCE VITA 美好生活 为即将 到来的假 期 购物？用永不过时 的意 大 利 经典服 饰 装 满 您的行李 箱 吧。Kirsty Welsh为 您 推 荐展现 意 式 度假 风情 的造 型 globalblue.com

没有 哪 个国家能像 意 大 利那 样 让 人联 想 到完美 的度假 装 扮。 截 至2020年1月，＃italianstyle主 题 标 签已在 Instagram上吸引了超 过400万个 帖 子，原因不 言而 喻：意 式 风尚结 合了生动的色 彩、浸润阳光的图案以 及世界一 流 的 “意 大 利制 造”工 艺 水准。风 景如画的意 大 利里维 埃 拉和 该国魅力无穷的几座城 市也让 世 人心向往 之： 电 影史 上 最 时尚的夏季 影片大多 拍 摄 于意 大 利，包括《美 好生活》、《罗马 假日》和《天 才莱 普利先 生》等。 索菲亚·罗兰等意 大 利电 影明 星散 发出迷 人 的光 芒； 罗兰身穿别 致的一 件 式 泳 衣，搭配 珠 宝、个 性 墨 镜 和头巾，展现 出自 己的 标 志性 泳池 造 型。 意 式假日装 束 可使穿 着 者瞬间进 入飞 行度 假模 式，而且在 过去很多年里，大 量 的优 雅 款 式 经受 住了时间的考验，至今魅力依然。 米 索 尼（Missoni）就 是 一 个例 子。该品牌 标 志性 的 之字形图案可以 追溯 到1953年，而且可以完美 搭配 出醒目的 沙滩 装。 无论 您 是将经典一 件 式 泳 装与Missoni著名的卡 夫 丹罩 裙（kaftan） 搭配，还 是 选 择 永恒 的比 基尼，都无法 否 认 Missoni可以带来 轻松自在 的优 雅。 彩 色 抽 象 印 花 服 饰 巨 头 Emilio Pucci用 几 何 图 案 和 大 胆 的 色 彩 革 新 了池 畔 时 尚 。 如 果 要 选 出 该 品 牌 最 拿 手 的 产 品，那 就 是 缎 面 头 巾，它 已 成 为 这 家 意 大 利 品 牌 的 代 名词，是 在 卡 普 里 岛 海 滨 展 示自己 时 尚 品 味 的 完 美 装 备。 池 畔 珠 宝可让 您瞬间散 发 意 大 利里维 埃 拉 风情，为 您 打造完美 的度假 装 束。去逛 逛佛罗 伦萨 高级 珠 宝设 计师Carolina Bucci的店，试 试 其 标 志性 的18克 拉 超 大 黄金手 链 和圈形 耳 环， 它们 简单优 雅，工 艺精 巧且易于层 叠 佩 戴— — Carolina Bucci的作品可以 立即提 升 任 何 装 扮 造 型的时尚度。 从 最初的草图到最 终 的 精 美 产品，优 质的 鞋 履已融 入 意 大 利的DNA中。 从古驰（Gucci） 的经典乐福 鞋，Tod’s的驾 驶鞋 到 Aquazzura轮 廓优美 的高跟鞋，意 大 利高品质、享 誉 全 球 的 顶 级品牌 被 全 世界 公认 为衣 橱必 备 品。 如果 您心 仪 的是 低 调优 雅 和对未 来 数年的宝贵投 资，请 前往 Bottega Veneta，试 试 该品牌 的凉 鞋， 它们由柔 软的意 大 利皮革 精 制 而成，带来 卓越 的舒 适 度 和美 观 感。 如果您要 买泳池 拖 鞋，请 选 择带 有Gucci徽 标浮 雕 的款 式，以时尚的姿 态 漫 步 于泳池 周围。 在 海滩 上散步时，如果没有 Prada柳 条 帆 布 篮 子 包 来 携 带 您的所有海滩 必需品，那 可 不 算 是考虑周全的雅 致 度假 装 束。该包以编 织柳 条 为主体，饰 有用皮革 和 金 属制成 的Prada著名标

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Want to find the hottest tax free shopping spots in Milan, Rome and beyond, and where to find your favourite brands? Scan the QR code to open the Global Blue Mini-Programme and start your tax free shopping journey today.

想要探索米兰、罗马、佛罗伦萨、威尼斯与都 灵的热门购物退税目的地，寻找你钟爱的品牌, 尽情享受意大利购物之旅？ 扫描二维码进入环球蓝联小程序，即刻开启你 的精彩购物退税之旅吧。

84: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购物区中的30多万家商店消费 时，环 球 蓝联购物 退 税 服 务（Global Blue Tax Free Shopping）为 您节省购物 开 销。 每 年 约有两千六百多万名旅客 享用环 球 蓝联 （Global Blue）的购物 退 税 服 务，何不加入他们 的行列？您只需 在 购物时留意 环 球 蓝联 （Global Blue）的蓝 星标 志，或 直 接问询商家是 否提 供环 球 蓝联（Global Blue）退 税 服 务，然 后 遵 循以下简单 的退 税流 程即 可： 1. 购物 消费 无论 您 在哪里 购物，请向商家索要 环 球 蓝联 退 税 表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form）。 2. 申领退 税 在 您 返 程离境前，请 前往 海 关柜台，请海 关 工 作人员在 退 税 表格上 盖章，然 后再到环 球 蓝联 的退 税 点领 取 退 税 款。 联 系方 式： taxfree@ globalblue. com +421 232 111 111 最低消费154.95欧 元即 可申请 退 税，能 够 节省 高达15.5%的商品购买 价。请注 意：您 最 终 收 到 的退 税 款 是 增 值 税 总 额扣减手 续费后的金额。 如果您 选 择当场 现 金 退 税，有些机 场 还 将以 退 税申请 表为单位收取 现 金 退 税手 续费。 左图：Missoni 2020春夏

照片: © gorunway.coM

识，还 配 有 可拆 卸肩带，让 您解 放 双手，轻松 使 用相机，拍 摄 周围宜 人 美 景。 在 2020年春夏 米 兰时装 周上，徽 标 趋 势没 有丝 毫减 弱的迹 象。 在 运用老花图案 上，或许 没有 哪 个意 大 利品牌能像 Fendi那 样 操作。该品 牌 的醒目标 识让其 本 季太阳镜 新 颖夺目，玳 瑁 镜 框 上 点缀 着霓 虹黄色，并 饰 有 著名的双 F标 识，无论是漫 步 于海滩 还 是 米 兰街头，都是 理 想之选 。 当太阳在 罗马落 下时，不妨像 罗马人 那 样， 在 您的肩膀上 披一 件 色调 柔 和的超 大Miu Miu 开襟 衫，展现 出地 道 的意 大 利风情。 在 Miu Miu的 2020春夏系列中，我们 最 爱的是 用羊 绒 和马海 毛制成、以 珍珠 缀 饰 的 柠 檬 果子露色 开 衫。 最 后，为什么不 使 用Acqua di Parma香水来 配 衬 意 大 利壮丽的景 色 和地中海 新 鲜食 材 的 诱 惑？ 该品牌成 立于1916年，其 Blu Mediterraneo 系列可召唤 出意 大 利里维 埃 拉 的度假神 韵。 该系列中的每 款 香水 均以意 大 利目的地命名并 取灵气于其中。 Arancia di Capri让 人联 想 到卡 普里岛上 的 柑 橘 林，而 Mandorlo di Sicilia将 你 带到 西 西里岛；Blu Mediterraneo系列的最 新成 员Cipresso di Toscana则受 托 斯 卡 纳风 景的启 发。 该品牌 的 香水瓶 装尺寸适 宜，方便 旅行中 携 带，是将意大利香 气带回家中的理想纪 念品。

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 42: MIlan MenSWear renaISSanCe ВОЗРОЖДЕНИЕ МУЖСКОЙ МОДЫ В МИЛАНЕ Милан восстанавливает свою репутацию центра мужской моды благодаря крупнейшим игрокам индустрии и новым талантам, дебютирующим на Неделях мужской моды, – рассказывает Патрик Кларк В последние годы можно было наблюдать тенденцию, когда модные дома Милана предпочитали демонстрировать мужские и женские коллекции одновременно. Однако сейчас совместные презентации, похоже, приостановлены. Salvatore Ferragamo и Gucci возвращаются к расписанию мужской Недели моды в Милане наряду с остальными брендами, которые уделяют все больше внимания мужским показам, проходящим в январе и июне. На протяжении многих лет Милан оставался столицей мужской моды благодаря таким домам, как Brioni, Santoni, Kiton, Ermenegildo Zegna, Canali и Pal Zileri. Но за последние сезоны мужские показы брендов явно сократились, даже календарь показов был значительно урезан. В эпоху, когда традиции и наследие больше не могут гарантировать актуальность, город посылает четкий месседж – миланские дизайнеры намерены отдать дань истории и переосмыслить концепцию мужской моды. Инициатором таких перемен стал Карло Капаса, президент Национальной палаты итальянской моды (CNMI), основанной в 1958 году с целью координации и продвижения интересов итальянских дизайнеров как внутри страны, так на международном уровне. Капаса открыто призвал ведущих игроков вернуться к официальному расписанию мужских показов globalblue.com

в сезоне весна-лето 2020. Он предложил обновить систему традиционного планирования (бренды придерживались своих слотов в календаре на протяжении многих лет), чтобы дать максимальный шанс проявить себя не только известным, но и начинающим дизайнерам. Пол Эндрю, креативный директор Salvatore Ferragamo с февраля 2019 года, после показа своей первой мужской коллекции в рамках шоу Pitti во Флоренции заявил, что «безумно рад вернуться в итальянскую столицу моды в январе с мужской коллекцией осеньзима 2020». Флорентийский дом моды переосмысляет собственные традиции, приводя их в соответствие с предложенной инициативой. «Каждый новый сезон – это дебют, а каждый дебют отмечен творческой энергией: я думаю, что Милан с его интеллектуальной стихийностью и международной атмосферой является идеальной сценой», – говорит Эндрю. Другие бренды, включая Prada, Gucci, Jil Sander и Iceberg, также решили последовать новой стратегии, которая позволит обратить внимание на важность мужской моды для итальянской индустрии, рост ее популярности и подчеркнуть тот факт, что Италия в настоящий момент является ведущим европейским экспортером одежды. Марко Биззарри, президент и главный исполнительный директор Gucci, направил в Национальную палату открытое письмо, в котором выразил свой энтузиазм по поводу совместной инициативы. По его словам, она открыла «новое видение и опыт, на основе которого можно создавать похожие проекты, сберегая понятие «Сделано в Италии» и все, что оно олицетворяет. Добавив один день в календарь, мы сделаем правильный выбор. Это не только придаст мужским показам в Милане актуальность и престиж, но и обеспечит им такую роль на мировой арене, которую они заслуживают». Национальная палата поддерживает не только признанных лидеров индустрии, но и молодых и начинающих дизайнеров, стремясь разнообразить охват аудитории. Так, CNMI сотрудничает с организацией

Portugal Fashion, приглашая талантливых дизайнеров на Неделю мужской моды. Начинающий испанский дизайнер Дэвид Каталан воспользовался этой возможностью и продемонстрировал свою коллекцию весна-лето 2020 в Милане в июне 2019 года. «Я думаю, что это, возможно, лучшая площадка для мужских показов. Было здорово работать на той же сцене, что любимые нами бренды, такие как Sunnei или Neil Barrett, – заявил Каталан в интервью SHOP. – Я проводил показы своих коллекций в ряде других городов, включая Мадрид и Стамбул, но именно в Милане я чувствовал неподдельный интерес к одежде со стороны посетителей – в основном мужчин. Для такого нетрадиционного бренда как мой очень важно найти доступ к людям, интересующимся модой, которые не побоятся рискнуть и захотят выделиться, поэтому я считаю, что Милан в этом плане идеальное место». Другие бренды, которые строго придерживались модного календаря, также стараются переосмыслить формат, заменяя подиумные шоу-показы более инновационными мероприятиями. Компания Canali продемонстрировала новый подход на прошлой Неделе мужской моды в Милане, который позволит бренду начать новую главу своей истории. Модный дом представил капсульную коллекцию Black Edition, более технологичную версию классического фирменного стиля, которая позволяет сделать вывод, что Canali выбрал путь современных технологий и инновационных решений. Одно можно сказать наверняка – итальянские бренды проявляют единство, особенно, когда дело заходит о феномене «Made in Italy», от которого они все выигрывают и в который они все делают вклад. Согласие между конкурирующими компаниями – явление не из рядовых, однако пример Милана дает понять, что иногда полезно отойти от традиционного рыночного мышления ради общей цели, тем более, когда идет борьба между столицами мировой моды. Сверху: David Catalán весна-лето 2020

ФОТО: © GORUNWAY.COM

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50: LA DOLCE VITA Выбираете одежду для отпуска? Приготовьтесь заполнить чемоданы настоящей итальянской классикой. Керсти Уэлш рекомендует стильные образы, которые помогут воплотить итальянский шик Ни одна страна так не ассоциируется с идеальными образами для отдыха, как Италия. На январь 2020 года хэштег #italianstyle собрал более четырех миллионов постов в Instagram, и это не удивительно: комбинация насыщенных оттенков и яркие принты в сочетании с первоклассным итальянским мастерством и эталоном Made in Italy сделали свое дело. Живописная Итальянская Ривьера и колоритные итальянские города также добавляют очарования – не даром страна была выбрана местом съемки наиболее культовых кинолент, включая «Сладкая жизнь», «Римские каникулы» и «Талантливый мистер Рипли». Итальянские кинозвезды, такие как Софи Лорен, просто излучают гламур; знаменитый пляжный образ актрисы сочетает украшения и эффектные очки с тюрбаном и роскошным закрытым купальником. Итальянские образы для отпуска моментально придают своим обладателям статус высшего общества, а изобилие элегантных стилей успешно прошло испытание временем. Отличный пример – Missoni; культовый зигзагообразный узор бренда, появившийся в 1953 году, отлично смотрится на пляжной одежде. Неважно, комбинируете ли вы классический купальник с одним из знаменитых кафтанов Missoni или выбираете классическое бикини, любая вещь Missoni гарантирует непринужденный и элегантный образ.

Emilio Pucci, известный разноцветными принтами в абстрактном стиле, произвел революцию в области пляжной моды благодаря замысловатым геометрическим принтам и яркой палитре. Атласные тюрбаны, ставшие визитной карточкой бренда, будут идеально смотреться во время отдыха на пляжах острова Капри. globalblue.com

Дополните свой курортный образ яркими украшениями и окунитесь в гламур Итальянской Ривьеры. Отправляйтесь в салон флорентийского ювелира Каролины Буччи за знаменитым массивным браслетом из 18-каратного желтого золота и парой серьг-колец, которые невероятно элегантны, мастерски сделаны и легко сочетаются. Аксессуары Carolina Bucci способны в один миг преобразить любой наряд. От первых эскизов до готовых моделей, качественная обувь – неотъемлемая часть итальянского стиля. Великолепные творения ведущих дизайнеров страны признаны классикой по всему миру: от лоферов Gucci и Tod's до изысканных туфель Aquazzura на высоком каблуке. Чтобы создать непринужденный элегантный стиль и инвестировать в настоящее сокровище, загляните в Bottega Veneta и подберите себе идеальные сандалии из мягкой итальянской кожи. Комфорт и неотразимый вид вам обеспечен. Если вам по душе сланцы, то пусть это будет пара от Gucci с фирменным логотипом, чтобы отдых у бассейна был стильным. Ни один роскошный образ для отдыха не будет завершенным без плетеной сумки Prada, которая может вместить все необходимое для отдыха на пляже. Сумка изготовлена из плетеных прутьев и украшена узнаваемым металлическим логотипом Prada. Сумка имеет отстегивающийся длинный ремешок, чтобы не занимать руки, когда нужно заснять красоту вокруг на камеру. Как стало ясно из Миланской недели моды весна-лето 2020 тренд на логотипы никуда не делся. А главный итальянский специалист по монограмным принтам – это Fendi, чей узнаваемый логотип в этом сезоне преобразил классические солнечные очки: они были дополнены ярко-желтыми акцентами в сочетании с черепаховой оправой и логотипом FF – идеальный вариант как для пляжа, так и для прогулок по Милану. Когда в Риме садится солнце, поступайте как римляне и накиньте на плечи кардиган Miu Miu пастельных оттенков. Нашим фаворитом в коллекции Miu Miu весна-лето 2020 стал кардиган цвета лимонного сорбета

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с жемчужным украшением в вариантах из кашемира и мохера. И наконец, почему бы не закрепить впечатления от поездки средиземноморскими ингредиентами с ароматом от Acqua di Parma? Этот парфюмерный дом, основанный в 1916 году, прочно ассоциируется с Итальянской Ривьерой благодаря серии Blu Mediterraneo. Каждый аромат коллекции назван в честь одного из регионов Италии. Arancia di Capri навевает мысли о цитрусовых рощах Капри,

Mandorlo di Sicilia переносит на побережье Сицилии, а новинка коллекции Cipresso di Toscana вдохновлена пейзажами Тосканы. Все парфюмы бренда имеют удобный флакон, подходящий для поездок, и будут отличным сувениром на память о времени, проведенном в этой солнечной стране.

84: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free Совершая покупки по вСему миру, Совершайте их С Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue.

Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.95 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. Сверху вниз (по часовой стрелке): Miu Miu; Prada; aquazurra; Carolina Bucci, все коллекции весна-лето 2020

Фото: (нижний левый) Marco LaMbri

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日本語翻 訳

42: MILAN MENSWEAR RENAISSANCE ミラノのメンズウェアルネサ ンス ミラノは大手ファッションハウスや新進気鋭 のデザイナーをメンズファッションウィーク に呼び戻し、メンズウェアの拠点としての評 判を取り戻しつつある。パトリック·クラーク がレポートする。 近年、ミラノのファッションハウスはメンズウェアとウ ィメンズウェアを同時に披露する傾向が強まってい た。ところが今、男女コレクションを同時に披露する 傾向が一時ストップしている。サルヴァトーレ·フェラ ガモが再びミラノ·ファッションウィークのメンズ日程 に名を連ね、業界大手のグッチも戻っている。1月と6 月に開催されるメンズウェアウィークを重視するブラ ンドが増えているのだ。 ミラノは従来からメンズウェアに注力しており、 ブリオーニ、サントーニ、キートン、エルメネジルド·ゼ ニア、カナリ、パルジレリなどイタリアを代表するテイ ラーが数々あるが、ここ数シーズンはメンズウェアコ レクションのプロモーションが減っていた。ショー日 程もメンズに割り当てられる日数がカットされていた のだが、今、ミラノははっきりと主張している。伝統と 過去の遺産だけでは通用しない現代、ミラノのデザ イナーたちは歴史を讃えつつ新たなメンズウェアを 創り出すためにここに居るのだと。 こうしたメンズウェアのカムバック運動の火付け 役となったのが、イタリアファッション協会 （CNMI）の会長カルロ·カパサだ。同協会は 国の 内外でイタリアンファッションの利益を代表し調整 やプロモーションを行う目的で1958年に創立され た。カパサは 2020年春夏メンズウェアショー公式日 程に大手ブランドが戻って来て欲しいと公然と呼び かけた。彼は 新興ブランドから老舗まで最大限の露 出を実現できるように、従来のプラニング（各ブラン ドは日程上の自社のスロットを長年キープしてきた） の改編を提案した。 2019年2月からサルヴァトーレ·フェラガモのクリ エイティブディレクターを務めるポール·アンドリュー は、フィレンツェでピッティのメンズコレクションを初 めて披露した後、 「1月に2020年秋冬のメンズウェア コレクションでイタリアンファッションの都ミラノに 右： カナリブラックエディション 春/夏 2020

帰ってくるのが楽しみだ」と語った。フィレンツェ発の このファッションハウスは自らの慣例を現在改めてお り、それがカパサが提案する変革の方向性と一致し ている。 「新しいシーズンは毎回がデビューであり、 デビューにはいつもクリエイティブなエネルギーが漲 っています。知的バイタリティにあふれグローバル精 神が脈打つミラノ市は、まさにピッタリの舞台です」 とアンドリューはいう。 プラダ、グッチ、ジル·サンダー、アイスバーグなど 他のブランドもこの改編に参加しており、メンズウェ アが力強さと成長を見せていること、この国が現在 ヨーロピアンファッションの最大の輸出国であること を前面に打ち出して、イタリアにおけるメンズウェア の重要性を強調している。 グッチの社長兼CEOマルコ·ビッザーリは CNMIへのオープンレターの中で、協働のインセン ティブが「今後、メイド·イン·イタリアの覇権維持を 最優先してさらなる共同イニシアチブを築いていくた めの基礎となるビジョンと経験」になるとして熱意を 表明し、 「ミラノのメンズファッションショーに最大 限の今日性と権威を与え、国際舞台で然るべき役割 を取り戻させるためにも、日程に一日加えることは正 しい選択だ」と結論づけている。 CNMI はファッション業界の老舗だけでなく新 進デザイナーも支援している。リーチとインパクトの 多様化が狙いだ。例えば、ポルトガルファッションと 共同でメンズファッションウィークの期間中に若手 デザイナーのショーを主催している。 スペインの新進デザイナー、ダヴィッド·カタラン は2019年6月にミラノで2020年春夏コレクションを 披露した。 「ファッションの都という意味で、メンズウ ェアを披露するには最高の舞台じゃないかと思いま す。スンネイ、ニール·バレットといった人気ブランド と同じ舞台に立てるなんて、素晴らしい」と、カタラ ンはSHOPのインタビューで語っている。 「他にも2 都市ほど、 マドリード、イスタンブールでショーをしま したが、ミラノでは人々、特に男性が装いに本当の関 心を持っていると感じました。うちのように型破りな ブランドにとっては、ファッションに興味を持ち、目 立ちたいと思ってリスクを冒すような人に対して披露 することが大事。だからミラノはまさにピッタリなんで す。」 ショー日程の常連である他ブランドも、キャット ウォーク形式を止めて革新的な提案方法を採用する など新たな見せ方を工夫している。同族会社のカナ リは昨年6月のミラノ·ファッションウィーク·メンズで 新たなビジョンを発表。ブランド史上の新たな章へ 移行するための準備と思われる。同社は従来の古典 的な洋服のスタイルをテクウェア風にした「ブラック· エディション」カプセルコレクションを発表し、カナリ

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や他のブランドが今後取るであろうモダンで今風で 革新的なスタイルの方向性を示した。 一つはっきりしているのは、イタリアのブランドは 「メイド·イン·イタリア」の品質保証を守ることにかけ ては団結しており、皆でその恩恵を享受し、皆がその 保護に貢献しているという点だ。競合会社が団結す ることは珍しいかもしれないが、ミラノの例は、共通 の価値観のために市場の論理をさておくことは可能 だし、ファッション都市間の競争が激化している中 では必要かつ危急だということの証明だ。

50: LA DOLCE VITA ラ·ドルチェ·ヴィータ ホリデーウェアをお探しなら、飽きの来ない イタリアの名品をスーツケース一杯に詰めて みてはいかが？イタリアンバカンスの粋を象 徴するお薦めのルックスを、カースティ·ウェ ルシュがご紹介する。 イタリアほど完璧なホリデーウェアが揃う国は他に ない。インスタグラムでは、 「#italianstyle」というハ ッシュタグが2020年1月現在で400万件を超える投 稿を集めている。その理由は至って簡単。鮮やかな 色のコンビネーション、陽の光に映える模様、 「メイ ド·イン·イタリア」の基準をクリアした世界一流の職 人技が冴える品質が注目を集めているのだ。さら に、絵のように美しいイタリアンリビエラと刺激的な イタリアの都市も魅力的だ。イタリアは『甘い生 活』、 『ローマの休日』、 『太陽がいっぱい／リプリ ー』などすこぶるスタイリッシュな夏の映画のロケ 地だ。ソフィア·ローレンなどイタリアの映画スターは グラマラスな魅力に溢れている。ローレンの代表的 なプールサイドでのルックスといえば、ジュエリーと ステートメントサングラス、ターバンにシックなワン ピースの水着の組み合わせだ。 イタリアンホリデーの装いは昔から、着る人を 瞬時にジェット族にする。エレガントなスタイルが豊 富で、時代が移り変わってもその魅力は褪せること がない。ミッソーニがその一例だ。このブランドを象 徴するジグザグ模様は1953年に初登場したが、も のの見事に大胆なビーチウェアに早変わり。古典的 な水着にミッソーニの有名なカフタンを合わせても 良し、時代を超えて魅力的なビキニを着ても良し。 ミッソーニを着るだけでさりげなくエレガンスが漂 うのは間違いない。 抽象的な多色プリントで有名な一流ブランド、 エミリオ·プッチは 幾何学模様と大胆な色使いでプ ールサイドファッションを一新した。このブランドの お得意は何といってもサテンのターバン。エミリオ·プ ッチの代名詞ともなったターバンは、カプリ島の海 岸でのファッションステートメントにはもってこいの アイテムだ。 バカンスルックスの仕上げにプールサイドジュ エリーをつければ、たちまちイタリアンリビエラの贅 沢感が演出できる。たとえばフィレンツェのファイン ジュエリーデザイナー、キャロリーナ·ブッチの代表 作、18カラットイエローゴールドの大ぶりなチェーン ブレスレット。とにかくエレガントで精巧に作られた globalblue.com

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このブレスレットは重ね付けがしやすい。キャロリー ナ·ブッチのジュエリーをつければ、どんなルックス も瞬時に印象が変わる。 最初のスケッチから美しく作られた最終製品ま で品質の高さを追求したフットウェアはイタリアンの 真骨頂だ。グッチのお馴染みのローファーやトッズ のドライビングシューズ、優雅なシルエットが美しい アクアズーラのヒールまで、高品質で国際的に知ら れる一流イタリアンブランドは、世界のどこにいても ワードローブの定番だ。さりげないエレガンスと長 く愛用できる逸品を求めるなら、ボッテガ·ヴェネタ がお薦め。このブランドのサンダルは柔らかなイタリ アンレザー製で、履き心地の良さとルックスは満点 だ。プールスライダーサンダルなら、グッチのロゴエ ンボス入りサンダルでプールサイドを粋に歩くのも いい。 シックなバカンス用アンサンブルに欠かせない のが、プラダの籐·キャンバス地のかごバッグ。ビー チ用グッズが全て治まるこのバッグでそぞろ歩きに 出かけよう。籐編みのバッグはプラダお馴染みの革 とメタルのロゴ入りで、取り外し可能なショルダース トラップは景色をカメラに収めたい時などにとても 便利だ。 ミラノ·ファッションウィーク2020年春夏コレク ションでは、ロゴのトレンドが相変わらず見られた。 イタリアンブランドでモノグラムと言えば、やはりフ ェンディだ。一目でそれとわかるロゴで、今シーズン のサングラスは表情を一新。ベッコウのフレームに ネオンイエローのアクセントを加えたり、有名なダブ ルFをあしらったりと、ビーチにもミラノの街中にも 合う理想のアイテムだ。 ローマのナイトライフはローマっ子風に過ごす のが通というもの。いかにもイタリアらしく華麗に、 ミュウミュウのたっぷりしたパステル調のカーディガ ンを肩回りに羽織ってみよう。2020年春夏ミュウミ ュウコレクションのハイライトは、真珠の飾りをあし らいカシミアとモヘアで仕上げたレモンシャーベッ ト色のカーディガンだ。 仕上げに、美しいイタリアの風景と地中海の新 鮮素材を彷彿とさせるアクア·ディ·パルマのフレグラン スをまとおう。1916年創立のこのブランドは、 「ブルー メディテラネオ」シリーズにイタリアンリビエラのエッ センスを凝縮している。このコレクションは、それぞれ の香りの名称にインスピレーションとなったイタリア の地名が入っている。たとえば「アランシア·ディ·カプ リ」はカプリ島のシトラスフルーツ園を思わせ、 「マン ドルロ·ディ·シチリア」をまとえば心はシチリア島へ。 シリーズ最新作の「シプレッソ·ディ·トスカーナ」はト スカーナの風景から発想を得た。これらの香水は旅 行に携帯しやすいサイズのボトル入りで、イタリアで羽 を伸ばした後の香しいお土産にもピッタリだ。 上： アクア・ディ・パルマ アランシア・ディ・カプリ オードトワレ

84: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が 免税に グローバル·ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用 いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にあ る30万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得にな ります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル·ブルー の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。 手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル·ブ ルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを踏 むだけです。 1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル·ブルーの免 税書類（タックスフリー·フォーム）を受け取ってくだ さい。 2.還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にスタ ンプを押してもらってから、グローバル·ブルーの還 付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。 お問い合わせ： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.95以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高 15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻

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Fine Vines

After graduating from London’s prestigious Central Saint Martins arts college in 2013, Milanese jeweller Bea Bongiasca launched her eponymous brand and she hasn’t looked back since. Known for its striking, bold, modern fine jewellery, the brand has found success around the globe, with collections presented at Miami’s Art Basel and stocked by the likes of Moda Operandi and Net-A-Porter. Her latest collection, You’re So Vine, plays with the idea of nature by creating twirling vine-like designs Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

in colourful enamel that encircle solid gold earrings, rings and necklaces. The pictured Double Curl Vine earrings in turquoise enamel with marquise-cut topaz are the perfect addition to any summer wardrobe and best worn under equally blue Italian skies. LT Bea Bongiasca earrings, €1,000, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, beabongiasca.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 77

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