SHOP Austria AW16

AUSTRIA | АВСТРИЯ | 奥地利 |

AUSTRIA

Page 26

Style Edition Autumn/Winter 2016/17

A HAPPY ANNIVERSARY: Salzburg celebrates 200 years of being part of Austria

MONDAY – FRIDAY 9.30 AM – 7 PM SATURDAY 9.30 AM – 6 PM Getreidegasse 19 5020 Salzburg

MONDAY – FRIDAY 9.30 AM – 8 PM SATURDAY 9.30 AM – 6 PM Kärntnerstraße 8 1010 Wien

EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover

Welcome to Austria

Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Nuremberg Oslo Paris 巴黎

Portugal Prague Riga Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius

Emma Cheevers

Чехия

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@GlobalBlue

@shopcontent

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Discover the best of this scenic country with SHOP. Read about Salzburg’s unique character on page 26 and meet Vienna-based Petar Petrov, the self-efacing designer who has quietly made a big name for himself, on page 32 – plus much more. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15% when shopping in Austria. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Austria. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

Tobias Hall Talented typographer Tobias Hall was the perfect choice of cover illustrator for this season’s edition of SHOP Austria. Salzburg became part of Austria 200 years ago and our cover shows the city’s best-known landmarks crowned with a celebratory golden 200; read more about the anniversary in our feature on page 26. Tobias’s other clients include Netfix and Toyota. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

PHOTO: KATIE WILSON ELL

ILLUSTRATION: TOBIAS HALL

CONTRIBUTORS

Frances Wasem Frances Wasem is a contributing editor at Harper’s Bazaar magazine, and has also written for Stella magazine and the Times. She has interviewed fashion icons from Christian Louboutin to the corset maker Mr Pearl and flm stars including Lauren Bacall, Lauren Hutton, Ali MacGraw and Jane Fonda. globalblue.com

Hannah Lewis Hannah Lewis, features editor at SHOP, read English literature and language at the University of Oxford before going on to study for an MA in journalism at the London College of Fashion. She has worked for Time Out in the Middle East and, more recently, has produced her own magazine in London.

porsche design Eyewear

P ´ 8 6 74 A N D P ´ 8 47 8 S U N G L A S S E S INSPIRED BY OUR PASSION FOR DESIGN

www.porsche-design.com

SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Tobias Hall Contributor Frances Wasem Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion writer Danielle De Wolfe News editor Ginger Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistants Charlotte Rogers, Selina Tan Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Milkha Lala Artworking assistant Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

G L O B A L B L U E AU S T R I A Head of commercial Austria Jiří Macas Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialists Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko Retail service manager Hermann Danzmayr Sales manager Martin Tille Global Blue Austria, Zetschegasse 17, A-1230 Vienna, +43 (0)1 798 4400, info.austria@globalblue.com

Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Sammy Ha, Adanna Nwachuku

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue

GRAZ INNSBRUCK KITZBÃ&#x153;HEL KLAGENFURT SALZBURG VIENNA

A SPECI AL COLLEC TION BY GIGI HADID

#TOMMYXGIGI

CONTENTS Products

p.32

12 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Austria this season 14 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

News 20 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Austria 22 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

Features 26

Cover story:

Celebrating Salzburg Salzburg became part of Austria two centuries ago. Hannah Lewis discovers the unique history and character of this enticing city 32 Quietly Confident Vienna-based Petar Petrov has become renowned among the fashion elite for his striking standout pieces. Frances Wasem meets the self-effacing designer who has captivated the fashion world

Experience 38 Café Society A delicious breakfast enjoyed in an Austrian café is the perfect start to a day of sightseeing, as Isabella Redmond Styles discovers

44 Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

Guide 51 Maps and guides to Austria’s top shops and destinations

Essentials 71 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

Translations 73 Русский Перевод 80 美文翻译 88

Souvenir 90 The essential item to bring home

Above: a luxuriously warm style from Petar Petrov's edgy autumn/winter 2016/17 collection

12 | P RO D U C T S

CHECK OUT

LEADING LIGHT Technology has advanced so much in the world of design that even everyday objects may not be all that they seem. A superb example of this is the book-shaped Lumio lamp, which unfolds into an accordion-style LED light – and a sculptural work of art. Lumio’s sleek, minimalist design features a laser-cut wood cover and waterresistant pages. Versatile and easy Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 71

to use, it can be carried in your bag or pocket; the Mini Lumio+ can also be used as a power bank for portable devices. Lumio, founded by architect Max Gunawan, was named one of the top 10 most innovative crowdfunded companies by Entrepreneur magazine in 2013. fm Lumio lamp, from €228, Modernes und Raritäten, Enge Gasse 3, 8010 Graz, +43 (0)316 908060, hellolumio.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 68

C&A Stores in Vienna Vösendorf, SCS, Eingang 3 Wien 2, Stadion Center, Olympiaplatz 2 Wien 3, Galleria, Landstraßer Hauptstr. 99 Wien 7, Mariahilfer Str. 96-98 Wien 10, Erlachgasse 92 b Wien 11, Zentrum Simmering Simmeringer Hauptstr. 100 Wien 12, Meidlinger Hauptstr. 57-59 Wien 14, Auhof Center Albert-Schweitzergasse 6

Wien 15, Lugner City, Gablenzgasse 5 Wien 21, FMZ C21 Consio Prager Straße 286 Wien 21, Seyringer Straße 12-14 Wien 22, Donauzentrum, Donaustadtstr. 1, Top 52 Wien 22, Gewerbepark Stadlau Gewerbeparkstr. ON 10 Wien 23, Riverside, Breitenfurter Str. 372

c-a.com

14 | P RO D U C T S

ON THE GRAPEVINE Burgundy tones are the perfect alternative to an all-black winter look 1

1. Miu Miu bag, €1,650, Miu Miu, Tuchlauben 7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 3053, miumiu.com 2. Mango jacket, €59.99, Mango, Kärntner Strasse 22, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 5123, mango.com 3. Byredo Unnamed fragrance, 50ml, €98, Nägele & Strubell, Makartplatz 1, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 873216, byredo.com

Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 71

4. Aesop Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Eye Cream, 10ml, €73, Kastner & Öhler, Sackstrasse 7-13, 8010 Graz, +43 (0)316 8700, aesop.com 5. Hunter boots, €195, Dominici, Ringstrassen Galerien, Kärntner Ring 5-7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 5556, hunterboots.com

WOMEN SHAPE THE WORLD WE SHAPE THEIR SHOES

SEE THE NEW 2016 AUTUMN/WINTER COLLECTION IN STORES NOW ECCO STORE VIENNA Kärntner Straße 47 · 1010 Vienna +43 1 512 2962

ecco.com

ECCO STORE SHOPPING CITY SÜD Entrance 6 · 2334 Vösendorf +43 1 609 1027

16 | P RO D U C T S

FINE PRINT Incorporate interesting plaid prints into your wardrobe

1. Marc O’Polo shirt, €69.90, Marc O’Polo, Sigmund-Hafner-Gasse 6, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 842262, marc-o-polo.com

3. Salvatore Ferragamo boots, €540, Salvatore Ferragamo, Kohlmarkt 7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 2814, ferragamo.com

2. Timberland backpack, €89, Timberland, Getreidegasse 3, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 844143, timberland.com

4. Burberry coat, €2,295, Burberry, Kohlmarkt 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 2820, burberry.com

Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 71

MEN'S FASHION IN BIG AND TALL SIZES MARIAHILFER STRASSE 1A, 1060 WIEN www.hirmer-grosse-groessen.de

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COOL KHAKI Combine military-style dungarees with classic, elegant accessories

1. Pomellato ring, €1,700, Pomellato, Tuchlaubenhof 7A, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 905 2324, pomellato.com

3. Clarins mascara, €28, Clarins, Opernring 1, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 7493 6210, clarins.com

2. Tom Ford lipstick, €49.99, Douglas, Kärntner Strasse 17, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 4241, tomford.com

4. Levi’s dungarees, €119.95, Levi’s, Europark, Europastrasse 1, 5018 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 424582, levi.com

Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 71

PHOTOS: (2) TED MORRISON; (7) KAREN BENGALL; (8) JASON BUTCHER

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5. Swarovski earrings, €119, Swarovski, Getreidegasse 19, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 846931, swarovski.com

7. Jimmy Choo handbag, €1,795, Jimmy Choo, Tuchlauben 4, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 0300, jimmychoo.com

6. Hugo Boss boots, from €895, Hugo Boss, Kärntner Strasse 20, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 1161, hugoboss.com

8. Vertu Aster Leaf phone, €8,500, Millennium Uhren, Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse 34, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)664 8824 8510, vertu.com

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20 | N E W S

PHOTO: TASH LIVING

SHOP WINDOW

DESIGN FOR LIVING Tash Living, a chic concept store and design studio, is also home to a compact, stylish cafĂŠ. Rather than being driven by trends, the boutique stocks an enticingly presented collection of new and vintage lifestyle products that range from furniture and Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 71

crockery to stationery and toys. Sample a delicious cofee to the sound of ambient jazz music after browsing the eclectic mix of items and labels sourced exclusively from across Europe. Tash Living also hosts events and pop-ups, in particular providing a platform for small, independent brands. gc Tash Living, Glacisstrasse 65, 8010 Graz, +43 (0)316 841180, tash-living.at FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 67

SORELLE

RAMONDA

INTERNATIONALE DESIGNER-MODE

und mehr …

Kollektionen führender, internationaler Designer für die ganze Familie. High quality fashion for women, men and children. мода ведущих интернациональных дезайнеров для вей семьи.

Wöllersdorf

bei Wiener Neustadt auf über 11.000m2 A- 2752 Wöllersdorf Römerstraße 3-9 Tel. +43 (0)2622 - 42 444

Sattledt

auf über 6.000m2 A- 4642 Sattledt Welser Straße 10-12 Tel. +43 (0)7244 - 8383

www.sorelleramonda.at

GRAZ

auf über 5.000m2 8054 Graz Center West Weblinger Gürtel 25 Tel. +43 (0)316 - 297 000

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WEEKDAY ARRIVES The Scandinavian casual-chic brand Weekday has opened its frst Austrian store. The label is internationally known for its cutting-edge designs, which combine sleek, modern trends with Nordic style. Set on Vienna’s bustling Mariahilfer Strasse, the new shop is spread over two foors and has used natural materials and a simple interior design to create a pared-back, urban look. A T-shirt printing space and a DJ booth make a visit to Weekday more than just another shopping experience. dw Weekday, Mariahilfer Strasse 83, 1060 Vienna, +43 (0)1 581 1253, weekday.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 58

As one of the world’s leading experts in diamonds and gemstones, family-run Wempe is renowned for creating jewellery of the highest quality. Its Paradise by Kim rings are the latest addition to the By Kim range. The rings are available in fve varieties, each featuring a stunning centre stone – a bold orange fre opal, a deep red rubellite, a blue-violet tanzanite, a soft green tourmaline (pictured, €10,675) or a rich blue aquamarine. hl Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 71

Wempe, Kärtner Strasse 41, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 3322, wempe.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 56

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) MATTHIAS HOFFMANN

A GLIMPSE OF PARADISE

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ONE AND ONLY Concept store One opened in Innsbruck in 2015. The boutique stocks international brands such as Norse Projects, Bleu de Paname and Pendleton. It ofers a range of contemporary streetwear and

timeless essentials along with wellbeing products, cosmetics and items for the home. Dark walls and an eclectic mix of furniture give the store a strong visual identity that matches the strength of its product ofer. gc One, Anichstrasse 9, Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 551329 FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 69

QUALITY TIME Bucherer unveiled its Patravi TravelTec II in 2015, and this November sees the brand launching a new version in rose gold and black titanium. The rose gold case has a diameter of 47.4mm; water-resistant to a depth of 100 metres, the watch is also equipped with a chronograph function and displays three time zones, making it an ideal accessory for stylish travellers. gc Bucherer, KĂ¤rntner Strasse 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 6730, bucherer.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 56

globalblue.com

24 | N E W S

CHIC FOR KIDS In July a new shop for young fashion afcionados was launched in Salzburg’s Old Town. Steinacher Kids is aimed at children aged between four and 14; it stocks a selection of favourite brands such as Tommy Hilfger, Scotch & Soda and Peak Performance. You’ll be able to fnd a mix of diferent items and looks, from classic shirts to new sneaker styles. gc Steinacher Kids, Griesgasse 2A, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 840542 FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 61

ROLLING STONE Casualwear brand Stone Island continues its exploration of form and function for autumn/winter 2016/17. The launch of the Stone Island House Check (pictured) is among this season’s highlights for the label. The pattern has been created on an antique loom in collaboration with 174-year-old wool manufacturer Dormeuil. Other features for the season include the updated Ice Jacket, now with new Resin-T fabric, a nylon tela that takes on diferent colours as the temperature changes. The brand has also collaborated with luxury luggage label Porter. As ever, Stone Island’s collection continues to push boundaries. gc Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 71

Stef, Kärntner Strasse 19, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 930560, stoneisland.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 56

S H O P | 25

PHOTO: ®ATELIERKARASINSKI

RETRO ROMANCE Lena Hoschek’s new fagship store in central Vienna resonates with the look of the brand, whose collections include traditional dirndls and ribbon skirts. The boutique’s vintage-inspired décor is infused with a touch of old Hollywood – step inside and enjoy the mood of nostalgia. gc Lena Hoschek, Goldschmiedgasse 7A, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)503 9200, lenahoschek.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 56

The Susanne Kaufmann brand, known for its cuttingedge skincare, launched its new Advanced Anti Aging collection in September 2016. This comprises three products designed to be used together: Skin Lightening and Radiance Complex, Night Repair Cream Skin Control and Skin Renewal Protection SPF 15. All contain active botanicals; pea extract decreases melanin and helps maintain collagen and elastin, while cardiospermum has anti-infammatory properties. Drawing on founder Susanne Kaufmann’s knowledge of fowers and plants, the label’s products are developed by dermatologists using herbal extracts, fower essences and precious oils – all helping to maintain beautiful skin. gc globalblue.com

PHOTO: © ESHOT BERLIN

SKIN DEEP

The Ritz-Carlton Vienna, Schubertring 5-7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 3118 8423, susannekaufmann.com

CELEBR ATING SALZBURG

PHOTO: © ÖSTERREICH WERBUNG/FILMSPEKTAKEL.AT

2016 marks 200 years since Salzburg became part of Austria. To celebrate this special anniversary, Hannah Lewis discovers the unique history and character of this enticing city

PHOTO: SPAR/ANDREAS KOLARIK

PHOTO: CHRISTIAN SCHNEIDER

28 | F E AT U R E S

n the first of May in 1816, a treaty was signed at the Salzburg Residenz palace, officially making the city part of Austria. The 200th anniversary of this historic occasion is being celebrated with a host of events and it’s no surprise that Austria is proud of its – relatively recent – acquisition. A hub of historic and contemporary cultural interest, Salzburg should be on everyone’s radar. A picturesque alpine city divided in two by the river Salzach, Salzburg has been delighting visitors with its natural beauty for centuries. Beautiful green hills provide a 73

picture-perfect backdrop to an equally charming city, and it’s due to this combination of nature and architecture that the historic centre of Salzburg has been designated a Unesco World Heritage Site. Home to a rare mix of architectural styles – including medieval, romantic, renaissance and baroque – Salzburg is noted for the preservation of its historic structures, including the city’s impressive classical buildings, some of which were homes belonging to the royal family. Salzburg’s history has, of course, shaped its present and if any historical figure can be said to have Previous page: the city lit up at night

put the city on the cultural map, it is classical composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. The musician was born in Salzburg in 1756 and his birthplace, now a world-famous museum, is one of the city’s must-visit attractions. The legacy of one of Salzburg’s most remarkable sons can be seen throughout the city and those with a sweet tooth should be sure to sample Mozartkugeln. These golf ball-sized chocolates are filled with pistachio-flavoured marzipan and nougat, and were created in 1890 at Café-Konditorei Fürst – still the best place in the city to try the delicious confectionery.

PHOTO: HELGE KIRCHBERGER/RED BULL HANGAR-7

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It’s not just traditional treats that can be found here, however. With the highest concentration of gourmet restaurants in Austria, Salzburg has become famous for its modern fine dining scene. Two-Michelin-starred restaurant Ikarus has garnered numerous awards. Leading chefs from around the world are invited to take over the kitchen and menu for month-long residencies in a concept which, despite facing initial scepticism, has been an undeniable success. The project is backed by noted Austrian chef Eckart Witzigmann, who hails from a town just outside Salzburg. Witzigmann

Above (clockwise from top far left): inside Mozarts Geburtshaus (Mozart’s birthplace); the Hangar-7 museum; two views of the Ikarus restaurant in Hangar-7; preparing Mozartkugeln at Café-Konditorei Fürst; exterior of Mozarts Geburtshaus

and executive chef Martin Klein agreed that the city offered the perfect balance of cultural richness and small-city charm for Ikarus. Senns Restaurant, the other Salzburg restaurant to boast two Michelin stars, is slightly off the beaten track but absolutely worth the short drive from the centre. Chef Andreas Senn’s exceptional food is modern and delicious, pushing boundaries without losing sight of the essence of any good meal – the pleasure of eating. ‘The people here are open to something new,’ says Senn. The city’s international visitors are equally open-minded and Salzburg has become a popular gourmet destination. Michelinstarred Carpe Diem is one of the most celebrated restaurants in the city and offers a unique finger food concept. Most dishes are bite-sized,

PHOTO: ANDREAS KOLARIK

PHOTO: HELGE KIRCHBERGER PHOTOGRAPHY

PHOTO: ANDREAS KOLARIK

30 | F E AT U R E S

with both sweet and savoury offerings arriving in handmade waffle cones. Wherever there are great restaurants, there are great boutiques and Salzburg has a wealth of standout stores. Alter Markt square and the surrounding streets are a must-visit; top international luxury brands including Escada, Hermès and Prada present stunning boutiques here. Independent stores are also well represented. High-end multibrand boutique Diva by Makole on Sigmund Haffner Gasse is a stylish space offering clothing and accessories from leading brands such as Victoria Beckham, Gucci and Brunello Cucinelli. The calibre of brands on offer shows that Salzburg’s fashion scene is thriving, and its design scene is too. Möblich is an interior design workshop and

Above (clockwise from left): Andreas Senn, chef at Senns Restaurant; a dish from his menu; the restaurant’s interior

PHOTO: WOLFGANG HUMMER

PHOTO: ANDREAS KOLARIK

S H O P | 31

Salzburg’s fashion and design scenes are thriving and the city is also a gourmet destination

showroom that specialises in upcycling and is renowned for its creative approach to retail. The team regularly holds in-store events and performances to enhance the visitor experience and encourage clients to commission bespoke pieces, ensuring a personal touch. This tailored approach is perhaps what draws people to Salzburg, a relatively small city that nonetheless offers many of the attractions of a larger one. ‘Even if Salzburg does not have the size, it is a cosmopolitan city,’ agrees Franz Fuiko, head chef at Carpe Diem. A unique mix of historical and contemporary cultural draws alongside truly stunning natural and architectural vistas, all in a city small enough to explore on foot, mean it’s no wonder Austria is celebrating Salzburg

Above (from top): high-end multibrand boutique Diva by Makole; Franz Fuiko, Carpe Diem’s head chef

32 | F E AT U R E S

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QUIETLY CONFIDENT Vienna-based Petar Petrov has become renowned among the fashion elite for his standout pieces. Frances Wasem meets the selfefacing designer who has captivated the fashion world

Petar Petrov is not one to court attention. The Vienna-based designer is a reticent publicist, relying on the strength of his creations and on word of mouth, rather than on newspaper column inches or celebrity endorsements. While he has not yet established the global reach of one of Austria’s most famous fashion names, Helmut Lang, he is fast evolving from an insider secret, loved by fashion editors and models, into the man most likely to share Lang’s fashion crown. The Ukraine-born designer grew up in Bulgaria and moved to Vienna at the end of the 1990s to study economics – a somewhat surprising choice. ‘Then I heard that you could study fashion too at the University of Applied Arts Vienna. That was a really new idea to me, so I prepared a portfolio in a few weeks. I was

Opposite: Petar Petrov autumn/winter 2016/17

accepted on the course and here I am!’ he laughs. Petrov, who has a delicate physique reminiscent of a young, albeit slightly edgier, Yves Saint Laurent, credits his teachers with influencing his design aesthetic. ‘I was lucky to have teachers such as Viktor & Rolf and Raf Simons. Their strong vision of fashion influenced me a great deal.’ The result has been described as ‘effortless luxury’, crafted from cashmere, merino wool, silk and calfskin, as well as immaculately tailored pieces that ‘feel like menswear for the modern woman.’ Petrov says his love of tailoring was steered by his mother and his childhood in Sofia. ‘To be honest, I never dreamt I’d become a

Above (clockwise from top): designer Petar Petrov; four looks from his autumn/winter 2016/17 collection

PHOTO: ©IRINA GAVRICH

34 | F E AT U R E S

S H O P | 35

fashion designer,’ he says. ‘But my mother is a tailor and so I grew up with fashion and clothes all around me. I was lucky enough to have clothes made for me by my mother.’ Having your own personal tailor in your home is perhaps the ultimate luxury, but Petrov says the lack of choice in the shops at the time also had an impact on how he evolved as a designer. ‘In the Sofia of the 1980s and 90s there wasn’t really much

Luxury and craftsmanship are at the heart of the Petar Petrov brand

clothing choice and it was almost impossible to buy western clothes. Our only access to fashion was through MTV or old issues of fashion magazines. But this made fashion even more exiting and pushed me to be more creative, to become more individual.’ That individuality is part of the DNA of Petrov’s designs. ‘Every piece of clothing from Petar Petrov is woven with attitude and individuality. My clothes are not designed for the kind of woman who doesn’t want to be seen in a crowd,’ explains Petrov. Indeed, his full-length leopard-print shearling coat, silver metallic trousers and gold over-the-knee boots have a

36 | F E AT U R E S

glam-rock drama that only the self-possessed could pull off. His bestselling pieces include striking shearling coats and jackets in rich jewel colours as well as his androgynous tailoring. Petrov started off designing menswear and produced his first collection in 2002 before launching his womenswear collection in 2009. ‘Suiting will always be a part of my collections,’ he explains. ‘We build the collection on its bones and many of my designs are inspired by the male wardrobe. I love the preciseness of men’s tailoring. The woman who buys my pieces is independent and individual, but she also likes the element of surprise.’ The surprise in

Above (both): Petar Petrov autumn/winter 2016/17

his autumn/winter 2016/17 collection comes in the form of a classic double-breasted suit made from baby-pink gaberdine and finished with playfully oversized black buttons. Luxury and craftsmanship are also at the heart of the brand. ‘Our collections are made in the best factories in Europe and Sofia, and my mother still produces some of the most complicated pieces in her workshop. We never compromise on quality. A collection starts with us looking at a lot of colours and materials, seeing how the colour works with the fabric. This gives me the inspiration to make something special or surprising,’ explains the

S H O P | 37

‘I’m passionate about not compromising on quality, design and materials’ designer. ‘For autumn/winter 2016/17 we incorporated a lot of texture, such as shearling, suede, silks and gabardine, and mixed and layered materials. The heaviness of a fabric is something that I particularly like.’ Petar Petrov’s reputation in Vienna is already firmly established and, with the launch of his debut bag collection this September in premium London department store Selfridges, he is set to step on to a global platform. The collection features a brass hand motif, created in collaboration with the workshop

of renowned Austrian modernist Carl Auböck. The surreal motif, which features as a clasp on the bags, was first created in the 1950s. It evokes Petrov’s signature artistic, feminine elegance. ‘The beauty of the outstretched hand represents the meeting of kindred spirits,’ he explains. Although he now has a team to call on, Petrov remains very much hands-on when a collection is being made. ‘I have a great team but I do as much as I can on my own,’ he says. ‘I’m a control freak and I’m passionate about not compromising on quality, design and materials.’ Such genuine enthusiasm for artistry suggests economics would not have been the ideal career choice for the young Petrov, and the designer agrees: ‘I need the creative process and I can’t imagine not working in a creative field.’

Above: two pieces from Petar Petrov’s first bag collection, made in collaboration with Carl Auböck

38 | E X P E R I E N C E

CAFÉ SOCIETY Breakfast is regarded by many as the most important meal of the day and Austria’s cafés provide the perfect start to your morning, as Isabella Redmond Styles discovers

Austria is renowned for its café culture and wide variety of traditional kafeehauser cofee houses where, particularly in Vienna, the venues historically served as a meeting place for eminent politicians, artists and other noteworthy fgures. Patrons of these cofee houses would typically linger over their cofee and soak up their surroundings, rather than rushing to drink up and carry on with their day. This attitude is still apparent globalblue.com

today and cafés take pride in producing elaborate cofee-based drinks and delicious treats to entice customers to stay a while. Breakfast is a highlight of the day at the country’s best cafés. Skilfully made cofee and freshly squeezed juices are served alongside a range of dishes, from wholesome bowls of fruit and muesli to indulgent freshly baked chocolate croissants, continentalstyle platters and substantial allday breakfast sandwiches.

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PA L M E N H AU S There can surely be few better places to start the day than the Palmenhaus café, located in an art nouveau former tropical greenhouse on the side of Vienna’s imperial Hofburg Palace. Breakfast is a highlight at the Palmenhaus, which also features a restaurant and lounge bar alongside the popular café. Early risers can expect a Viennese menu

with a twist. Breakfast like a local with a traditional Viennese-style breakfast of hand-made croissants, organic butter, blossom honey and home-made jam, or opt for the café’s signature breakfast of organic scrambled eggs with goat’s cheese, a handmade roll with jam and a mango smoothie with organic wholemeal bread. Palmenhaus, Burggarten 1, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 1033, palmenhaus.at

PHOTO: FIZZR CC BY-NC 2.0

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MOTTO A M FLUSS A modern interpretation of a traditional Viennese café, Motto Am Fluss occupies an enviable location on the banks of the Danube canal. The building, which houses a café, restaurant and terrace, is appropriately designed in the shape of a boat and guests can enjoy fantastic waterside views. The café is on the upper deck and the breakfast menu is popular for very good reason. Tuck into superfood globalblue.com

granola and home-made chocolate almond croissants, or sample savoury dishes such as smoked salmon and scrambled eggs with baby spinach, or a mighty all-day breakfast sandwich flled with scrambled eggs, bacon, ham, cheese, avocado, tomato, lettuce and spicy habanero mayonnaise. Wash it down with a glass of home-made lemonade or a madeto-order detox smoothie. Motto Am Fluss, Franz-Josefs-Kai 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 252 5510, mottoamfluss.at

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220 GRAD 220 Grad takes its cofee seriously, and its superb range of blends is made using beans roasted on site. This distinguishes it from some other Austrian cofee houses where hot drinks are often served piled high with cream or as an accompaniment to an indulgent sweet treat. The café has its own decked terrace which features cheerful orange chairs, awnings

and blankets – a great breakfast spot. The menu is wholesome and tasty – start the day with muesli and fruit, fresh spelt bread baked in house, or set yourself up with the more substantial Maxi plate. The café’s own version of a continental-style breakfast, the dish includes ham, cheese, jam and a selection of breads. 220 Grad, Chiemseegasse 5, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 827881, 220grad.com

BREGENZ · BÜRS · EISENSTADT · GERASDORF · GRAZ · HOLLABRUNN INNSBRUCK · KLAGENFURT · KREMS · LINZ · PARNDORF · RIED · SPITTAL ST. PÖLTEN · TELFS · TULLN · VELDEN · VILLACH · VÖSENDORF WELS · WIEN · WÖRGL · ZELL AM SEE

PHOTO: JASMIN SEREMONT CC BY 2.0

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CREMA Crema is a new addition to Innsbruck this year and it’s quickly becoming a favourite hangout for the city’s cofee lovers. The light-flled café has a clean and modern décor with thoughtful touches such as pretty vases of fresh fowers on each table. Crema has already earned a reputation globalblue.com

for its expertly made cappuccinos, cakes and freshly baked pastries. For later in the day, or for those looking for a hearty brunch, there’s an appetising menu of home-made quiches which changes daily, as well as pasta dishes. Crema, Maria-Theresien-Strasse 49A, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)676 511 4992, crema.at

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STAY IN STYLE The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

D’ANGLETERRE One of the most luxurious hotels in Copenhagen, the fve-star deluxe D’Angleterre has provided exceptional service, hospitality and comfort for over 250 years, and is more appealing than ever since its renovation in 2013. It has 90 spacious rooms and suites, and a range of facilities designed to create a stylish, restful retreat in the heart of the city. The Amazing Space spa has the only indoor globalblue.com

pool in central Copenhagen, along with a fully equipped ftness studio, and a menu of treatments that combine Asian and Nordic traditions. The Michelin-starred Marchal restaurant ofers fne dining in a chic and relaxed environment, while the sleek, contemporary champagne bar, Balthazar, has a lavish bar menu and an impressive drinks list. D’Angleterre, Kongens Nytorv 34, 1050 Copenhagen, +45 3312 0095, dangleterre.com

PHOTO: CONSTANTINO LEITE

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BAIRRO ALTO HOTEL The fve-star Bairro Alto Hotel is ideally situated in the heart of Lisbon’s cosmopolitan historic district, between the bohemian Bairro Alto area and fashionable Chiado. It is set in a renovated 19th-century building, and has 55 luxurious rooms (soon to be 85), decorated in an inviting, contemporary style that makes clever use of warm colours and

period details. The Flores do Bairro restaurant ofers a menu of fusion dishes, eclectic décor and views of Praça Luis de Camões; lighter bites are available at Café-Bar BA, which has DJs or live music nightly. Admire the stunning panorama of the Rio Tejo and the city’s ancient rooftops from the top-foor BA Terrace. Bairro Alto Hotel, Praça Luis de Camões 2, 1200-243 Lisbon, +351 21 340 8288, bairroaltohotel.com

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MARGOT HOUSE Occupying a prime location opposite Antoni Gaudí’s spectacular Casa Battló, Margot House is a home away from home in the heart of Barcelona. This sophisticated boutique hotel has just nine airy, comfortable rooms and suites, featuring locally made furniture and bedlinen, and supplied with complimentary Aesop products. globalblue.com

A breakfast of homemade cakes and pastries, hams, cheeses, bread, fruit and freshly cooked eggs is served in the spacious common area, which also ofers an honesty bar, computer, and 24-hour cafeteria service. Hire one of the hotel’s Brompton bicycles to explore the local area in style. Margot House, Passeig de Gràcia 46, 08007 Barcelona, +34 93 272 0076, margothouse.es

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AC HOTEL NICE The AC Hotel Nice has a welldeserved reputation for style and helpful service, and a superb location in the heart of the city overlooking the sea. There are 143 rooms, decorated in soft neutral tones and a timeless style, which look out across the historic city, the clear blue sea or the lush greenery of the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s private garden. Facilities include globalblue.com

a comfortable, well-stocked minilibrary, a heated rooftop pool for warmer days, and a ftness room. Check out the AC Lounge, where the chef presents delicious dishes using the best local produce. For cocktails and dinner, the Rooftop Terrace Restaurant & Lounge specialises in seasonal Mediterranean cuisine and ofers a 360-degree view across the city. AC Hotel Nice, 59 promenade des Anglais, 06000 Nice, +33 (0)4 9397 9090, achotelnice.com

C&A Stores in Tyrol Innsbruck, DEZ, Amraser See Str. 60 Innsbruck, Sillpark, Museumstr. 38 Innsbruck West, Höttinger Au 73 Kitzbühel, Jochbergstraße 58 Landeck, Malserstr. 33

Nußdorf-Debant, Großglocknerstr. 1 a Telfs, EKZ Inntalcenter, Weissenbachg. 9 Vomp, An der Leiten 12 Wörgl, im Geschäftshaus CENTRAL Bahnhofstr. 27-29

c-a.com

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GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Austria with a look at the country’s must-visit destinations, from a spectacular ice rink to one of the world’s largest monastic libraries. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/austria.

PHOTO: CHRISTOF LACKNER/INNSBRUCK TOURISM

A Glimpse Of Austria

SHOP, the world’s leading travel and shopping guide, wants to learn more about you, our readers. To tell us more about yourself, and have the chance to win an iPad Pro, visit globalblue.com/shopsurvey, or scan the QR code.

Above: Innsbruck is transformed into a winter wonderland over the festive season

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Lena Hoschek Discover Lena Hoschek’s elegant, feminine designs. Lena Hoschek, Goldschmiedgasse 7A, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 5030 9200, lenahoschek.com FEATURED ON PAGE 25

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Susanne Kaufmann Nourish your skin with Susanne Kaufmann’s range of natural organic beauty products. The Ritz-Carlton Vienna, Schubertring 5-7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 3118 8423, susannekaufmann.com FEATURED ON PAGE 25

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Weekday The covetable, cutting-edge Scandinavian casual-chic Weekday label has opened its first Austrian store in Vienna. Weekday, Mariahilfer Strasse 83, 1060 Vienna, +43 (0)1 581 1253, weekday.com FEATURED ON PAGE 22

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Palmenhaus The Austrian emperor once entertained guests in the space that houses this striking café. Palmenhaus, Burggarten 1, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 1033, palmenhaus.at FEATURED ON PAGE 38

Vienna Airport offers a large selection of national and international brands at advantageous prices. Make the most of your time and spoil yourself with an exclusive shopping spree. viennaairport.com

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PHOTO: CHA GIÀ JOSÉ CC BY-SA 2.0

TOP 3... WINTER PASTIMES IN VIENNA Schmetterlinghaus Keep a look out for rare winged beauties as you soak up the warmth and tropical splendour of Vienna’s impressive art nouveau butterfly house. schmetterlinghaus.at Hot chocolate at Stadtkind It’s hard to beat a delicious hot chocolate when the temperatures drop. Head for the sleek and modern Stadtkind café in Vienna for a great version of this classic winter drink. stadtkind.at

Department Store

Place Of Interest

Ice skating at Vienna Eistraum Whether you’re keen to show off your skating skills or still trying to find your balance, this spectacular ice rink, open from 25 January to 12 March 2017, is a great choice. wienereistraum.com

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VICTORINOX Victorinox’s recently launched Etherius luggage collection is based around a lightweight design that makes travelling easier, however long the journey. The collection consists of hardside cases made of strong, durable and ultra-light Bayer polycarbonate, ranging from a carry-on to a large travel case, available in Victorinox’s

signature red or black. The cases are equipped with stable 50mm Hinomoto wheels so you’ll be able to glide smoothly through airport terminals and train stations without having to compromise on style. Fritsch, Ringstrassen Galerien, Kärntner Ring 11-13, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 7110, victorinox.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 56

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TEA & CO Visit Tea & Co for a traditional teatime experience. This cosy store specialises in top-quality tisanes and, with over 200 types of tea available, there’s a cup to suit everyone. Tea-loving, knowledgeable staff are on hand and very happy to help pick out the perfect blend for you. Tea & Co, Griesgasse 7, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)676 735 6914, tea-and-co.myshopify.com FOR M AP GO TO PAGE 63

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62 | G U I D E

Ra th au sp

Spanish brand Zara is a year-round wardrobe staple for fashion lovers across the world thanks to its up-to-the-minute pieces for men and women, including an extensive line of accessories. This winter, look out for cool, off-duty silk bombers and loose-fitting floral-print dresses. Zara, Getreidegasse 24, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 842139, zara.com

Non-Global Blue Retailer

● BO

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Global Blue Retailer

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● MANNER

S H O P | 63

FREY WILLE

GR IE S G A SSE

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ASCHAUER HÜTE ●

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ALPHA TAURI ●

SALAMANDER ●

DANTENDORFER ●

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ROECKL ● THOMAS SABO ●

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Featured In This Issue

GE T R EIDEGA SSE

G E T R EI D E G A S S E

● TEA & CO

P.61

● NESP RESSO

● E2

Frey Wille, Getreidegasse 17, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)66 284 7869, freywille.com This season, Frey Wille takes inspiration from ancient Egypt. To celebrate its 65th anniversary, the brand has launched two new designs, Tutanchamun and Luxor, striking new additions to its best-selling 1990s Pharaohinspired collection. The Tutanchamun pieces are crafted in turquoise and royal blue, and adorned with Egyptian motifs such as the scarab beetle and the lotus flower. The Luxor designs include feminine rosettes and lilies, and use bold red, a colour which featured in ancient Egyptian beauty rituals.

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64 | G U I D E

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S H O P | 65

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66 | G U I D E

Sackstrasse, Hauptplatz & Herrengasse ● KUTTLER PELZE ● RETTL

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Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

PHOTO: ÖSTERREICH WERBUNG/TRUMLER

The Benediktinerstift Admont, the Benedictine abbey in the town of Admont, is well worth visiting as it houses one of the world’s largest monastic libraries. A masterpiece of rococo design, the spectacular library is home to over 70,000 books and is decorated with elaborate frescos and sculptures. Benediktinerstift Admont, Admont 1, 8911 Admont, +43 (0)3613 231 2604, stiftadmont.at Café

S H O P | 67

LUSH Lush has attracted a loyal international fan base for its wonderfully fragrant and fun-to-use beauty products. After thoughtful renovations, the brand’s Innsbruck branch has reopened. Adopting Lush’s new sustainable style, the store is clad in reclaimed wood, partly sourced from nearby South Tyrol, in keeping with the company’s commitment to stand against deforestation. Friendly and knowledgeable staff will talk you through the feel-good range of products, which includes bath bombs and handmade soaps.

Lush, Maria-Theresien-Strasse 34, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 560374, lush.at FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 69

Hans Sachs Gasse, Stubenberggasse, Kaiserfeldgasse, Girardigasse, Opernring & Joanneumring CE LL ●

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● WEIN & CO

Featured In This Issue

KO M

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68 | G U I D E

Murgasse, Sporgasse, Hofgassse, Stempfergasse, Raubergasse & Schmiedgasse

S H O P | 69

INNSBRUCK

● TOMMY HILFIGER

N R ABE SPAR ● R K TG

● SALAMANDER

GOLDSCHMIEDE NORZ ●

SIEN

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THOMAS SABO ●

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MARIONNAUD ●

TR A SS

S T I F TG A S S

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● DANTENDORFER

EINWALLER ANNA ●

● EINWALLER SPORTSMANN

Kids World Tyrol Klier Levi’s Lindt Magic Drinks Of Tyrol Maniolo’s Marionnaud Massimo Dutti Meer Sensei Miller United Optics Mpreis Name It Only | Jack & Jones Peek & Cloppenburg S.Oliver Saturn Segafredo Superdry Swatch Tabak Trafik Tamaris Tasties Tiroler Sparkasse Triumph

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LUIS TRENKER ● MILLENIUM UHREN ●

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Accessorize Baguette Café-Bistro Bar Centrale Bench Benetton Coffeeshop Company Cos Crocs Das Schindler Deichmann Depot DM Dolce Voko Drei Esprit Forever 18 G-Star Raw H&M Home Interior Intersport Jochen Schweizer

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SELECTED STORES IN KAUFHAUS TYROL:

● FEINHEITEN

GOLDEN ROOF

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EINWALLER OUTLET ●

P FA R R

Herzog Friedrich Strasse

● INTERSPORT

Eduard-WallnöferPlatz

Tourist Information

Shopping Centre/Mall

Café

Featured In This Issue

C&A Stores in Styria Deutschlandsberg, Frauentalerstr. 70 Fohnsdorf, Arena am Waldfeld Süd Murweg 13 a Fürstenfeld, FMZ Fürstenfeld-West Grazerstraße 16, Top 11 Gleisdorf, Ludwig-Binder-Str. 28, Top 2 Graz, Annenstr. 67 Graz, MURPARK, Ostbahnstr. 3 Graz, Shopping Nord Wienerstr. 351, Top 1/20 Hartberg, FMZ, Im Hatric 8

Kapfenberg, ece Einkaufs-Centrum Wiener Straße 35 a/Top 1/20 Leibnitz, EKZ Basta, Leopold Figl-Str. 1 Leoben, Hauptplatz 19, Top N 10 Liezen, EKZ Arkade Liezen Hauptstr. 30, Top 6 Mürzzuschlag, Mürz-Center, Grazer Str. 79 b Seiersberg, Shopping City Seiersberg 7/2/5, Eingang D Voitsberg, Kaufwelt Rosental Knappenplatz 15

c-a.com

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Spend a minimum of €75.01 and save up to 15% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

Refund Office Details Vienna Airport: Interchange Vienna, Pier Ost Interchange Austria, Terminal 1, Departures Interchange Austria, Transit Area Interchange Austria, Terminal 3, Departures, Non-Schengen Interchange Austria, Terminal 3, Transits/Departures, Schengen Area Downtown Vienna and Parndorf: Global Blue, Steffl, Kärntner Strasse 19, 1010 Vienna Gerngross, Customer Services, 1st floor, Mariahilfer Strasse, 1070 Vienna Domisol, Johannesgasse 22, 1010 Vienna Global Blue, Parndorf, Designer Outlet Strasse, 7111 Parndorf Salzburg Airport: Salzburger Sparkasse, Departures, Landside Downtown Salzburg: Frey Wille, Universitätsplatz 10, 5020 Salzburg Downtown Graz: Center West Graz - Infopoint, Weblinger Gürtel 25, 8054 Graz Downtown Innsbruck: Tourismus Information, Burggraben 3, 6020 Innsbruck 85

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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 26: Celebrating Salzburg

Юбилейный Зальцбург

В 2016 году исполняется 200 лет с того момента, когда Зальцбург стал частью Австрии. В честь этого события Ханна Льюис рассказывает об уникальной истории и атмосфере этого привлекательного города

Первого мая 1816 года в Резиденции архиепископа был подписан исторический договор, согласно которому город официально стал частью Австрии. 200-летие этого события отмечается целым рядом мероприятий, и нельзя не заметить, что Австрия весьма гордится этим относительно недавним приобретением.

Зальцбург, являющийся одновременно историческим и культурным центром страны, стоит посетить абсолютно каждому. Этот живописный альпийский город, разделенный на две части рекой Зальцах, многие века привлекает посетителей своей естественной красотой. Очаровательные зеленые холмы служат идеальным фоном для не менее очаровательного города. Именно благодаря сочетанию природных ландшафтов и архитектуры исторический центр Зальцбурга был включен в Список всемирного культурного наследия. Зальцбург, вместивший редкий набор архитектурных стилей, включая средневековье, романтизм, ренессанс и барокко, уделяет

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особое внимание сохранению исторических строений, в том числе величественных зданий в классическом стиле, многие из которых некогда принадлежали членам королевской семьи. Конечно, история Зальцбурга не могла не повлиять на его будущее, но, вероятно, самой значимой фигурой, прославившей город, можно считать Вольфганга Амадея Моцарта. Композитор родился в Зальцбурге в 1756 году и место его рождения, ставшее всемирно известным музеем, входит в число наиболее посещаемых достопримечательностей столицы. Наследие одного из самых выдающихся жителей Зальцбурга можно заметить во всех уголках города, и любителям сладкого наверняка придется по вкусу местный деликатес – Mozartkugeln. Эти шоколадные конфеты круглой формы имеют начинку из марципана с ароматом фисташек и нуги. Впервые их начали продавать в 1890 году в Café Konditorei Fürst, это кафе и сейчас остается лучшим местом для дегустации городских сладостей. Однако здесь можно встретить не только традиционные лакомства. Зальцбург, сосредоточивший большое число гурманских заведений, стал знаменитым центром современной кухни. Ресторан Ikarus, заслуживший две мишленовские звезды, globalblue.com

PHOTO: HELGE KIRCHBERGER PHOTOGRAPHY

был удостоен массы наград. Свое мастерство здесь демонстрируют лучшие шефповара из самых разных стран мира, приезжающие сюда ровно на один месяц. Идея этого необычного проекта принадлежит известному австрийскому шеф-повару Экхарту Витцигману, родившемуся в городе неподалеку от Зальцбурга. Витцигман и бренд-шеф заведения Мартин Кляйн сошлись на том, что Зальцбург с его богатой культурой и очарованием небольшого города, как нельзя лучше подходит для ресторана Ikarus.

Senns Restaurant – еще один зальцбургский ресторан, удостоенный двух мишленовских звезд. Хоть он и расположен не совсем в туристическом центре, но его посещение оправдает время, затраченное на дорогу. Восхитительные и современные блюда шеф-повара Андреаса Сенна бросают вызов ограничениям, но при этом не теряют основную суть кулинарии – получение наслаждения от еды. «Местные всегда открыты чему-то новому», – говорит Сенн. Иностранные гости также известны своими широкими кулинарными взглядами, поэтому Зальцбург стал популярным гастрономическим направлением. Мишленовский ресторан Carpe Diem считается одним из самых популярных в городе, и предлагает уникальное меню из крохотных фуршетных блюд. Здесь можно найти как закуски, так и десерты, подающиеся в вафельных рожках. Там, где есть хорошие рестораны, есть и прекрасные бутики, а Зальцбург славится своим шоппингвозможностями. Площадь Alter Markt и близлежащие улочки являются популярным туристическим местом. Здесь расположились бутики таких всемирно известных марок, как Escada, Hermès и Prada. Независимые магазины также хорошо представлены.

èультибрендовый бутик Diva by Makole, пользующийся спросом среди местных модников, предлагает стильную одежду и аксессуары от таких брендов, как Victoria Beckham, Gucci и Brunello Cucinelli. Ассортимент доступных брендов говорит о том, что зальцбургская мода процветает, как впрочем и дизайн. Салонмагазин интерьеров Möblich, специализирующийся на апсайклинге, славится своим креативным подходом к ритейлу. Персонал регулярно проводит интересные выставки и мероприятия, предоставляя посетителям возможность сделать индивидуальный заказ. Душевный и индивидуальный подход к гостям, – пожалуй, как раз то, что тянет людей в Зальцбург. Несмотря на свои небольшие размеры, этот город может дать фору любой другой столице, особенно по количеству достопримечательностей. «Пусть размер и не главный конек Зальцбурга, но зато здесь присутствует космополитичность», – считает Франц Фуйко, брен-шеф Carpe Diem. Такое сочетание исторических и современных памятников, а также красивейшей природы и архитектуры редко свойственно городам, которые можно легко обойти пешком вдоль и поперек. Поэтому неудивительно, что Австрия празднует юбилей Зальцбурга с таким размахом.

32: Quietly Confdent

Спокойствие и уверенность Фрэнсис Вазем встретился с дизайнером Петаром Петровым из Вены, который предпочитает держаться в тени, однако прославился среди модной элиты своим необычным стилем Петар Петров – не из тех, кто охотится за вниманием. Он предпочитает, чтобы за него говорили его творения и сарафанное радио, а не газетные колонки или одобрение знаменитостей. И пусть он еще не достиг мировой славы Хельмута Ланга, одиозной фигуры австрийской моды. Тем не менее, он стремительно превращается из известного в узкой тусовке дизайнера,

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горячо любимого модными редакторами и моделями, в потенциального преемника короны Ланга. Украинец по происхождению, Петар Петров вырос в Болгарии, а в 1990-е уехал в Вену изучать экономику, сколь бы удивительным ни казался этот выбор. «Однажды я узнал, что параллельно можно учиться в Венском университете прикладных искусств. Эта идея была совершенно новой для меня, и готовить портфолио пришлось всего за несколько недель. Меня приняли на курс, и вот к чему это привело», – улыбается дизайнер. Изящностью телосложения он напоминает молодого, хоть и несколько более экстравагантного, Ива

Сент-Лорана. По собственному признанию, своей необычной дизайнерской эстетикой он обязан своим учителям: «Мне очень повезло учиться у Viktor & Rolf и Raf Simons. Их сильный подход к моде оказал на меня большое влияние». Теперь он создает «непринужденную роскошь», и его вещи из кашемира, шерсти меринос, шелка и телячьей кожи «воспринимаются как мужская одежда для современной женщины». Петров полагает, что любовь к шитью появилась у него благодаря матери и детству в Софии: «Если честно, я никогда не мечтал стать модным дизайнером. Но моя мать – портниха, поэтому я вырос в окружении моды и одежды. Мне повезло носить то, что шила для меня мама». Собственный портной дома – это, конечно, огромное

преимущество, однако Петров утверждает, что на его становление как дизайнера повлияло и отсутствие выбора в магазинах: «В 1980-е и 90-е в Софии не было особого выбора в магазинах, а западная одежда оставалась недоступной. MTV и старые выпуски журналов стали единственным источником сведений о моде. И этот дефицит еще больше подогрел мой интерес к стилю, спровоцировал творческий рост и формирование индивидуальности». Эта индивидуальность заметна во всех работах Петрова: «Каждый предмет одежды от Petar Petrov пронизывает особое отношение. Мои вещи точно не для тех женщин, которые хотят сливаться с толпой», – объясняет дизайнер. И действительно, длинное овечье пальто с леопардовым принтом, серебристые брюки с металлическим отливом и золотые сапоги выше колена – такой глам-рок могут позволить себе только сильные духом. Особой популярностью пользуются необычные овечьи пальто и куртки ярких ювелирных оттенков, а также андрогинные модели. Петров начал с мужской одежды и представил первую коллекцию в 2002 году, а в 2009 появилась и женская серия: «Костюмы всегда будут частью моих коллекций, – обещает он. – Мы строим всю

коллекцию на его основе, да и в целом многое разрабатывается под воздействием мужского гардероба. Мне нравится педантичность мужского кроя. Женщина, которая носит мои вещи, независимая и не боится показывать свою индивидуальность. Но кроме того, ей нравится и элемент неожиданности». Элемент неожиданности в коллекции осень-зима 2016/17 проявился в виде классического двубортного костюма из ярко-розового габардина, с огромными черными пуговицами. Качество и внимание к технологии также составляют суть этого бренда: «Наши коллекции шьются на лучших фабриках в Европе и Софии. А самые сложные вещи прорабатывает моя мама в своей мастерской. Мы никогда не идем на компромисс в вопросах качества. Работа над коллекцией начинается с просмотра огромного количества оттенков и материалов: мы смотрим, как тот или иной цвет работает на конкретной ткани. Так у меня появляются особенные и неожиданные идеи. Для коллекции осеньзима 2016/17 мы обратились к разнообразным текстурам, в частности – овечьей шерсти, замше, шелкам и габардину: мы смешивали и наслаивали их. Я очень люблю подобную тяжесть тканей». В Вене у Петара Петрова уже сложилась прочная репутация. globalblue.com

В сентябре этого года он представляет свою дебютную коллекцию сумок в ведущем универмаге Лондона Selfridges – и тем самым выходит к мировому модному сообществу. Он украсил сумки необычными латунными ручкамизастежками, разработанными в сотрудничестве с мастерской знаменитого австрийского авангардиста Карла Аубека: впервые этот сюрреалистичный элемент был представлен еще в 1950-е. И эта находка полностью резонирует с характерной для Петрова игривой и женственной элегантностью: «Образ вытянутой ручки олицетворяет встречу родственных душ», – поясняет он. Сейчас на Петара Петрова работают прекрасные специалисты, но он продолжает лично участвовать в создании коллекции: «У меня великолепная команда, но я делаю сам все, что я могу сделать. Мне очень важно все контролировать лично и никогда не соглашаться на компромиссы в вопросах качества, дизайна и материалов». Столь искренний энтузиазм по отношению к своему делу говорит о том, что экономика была бы не лучшей карьерной перспективой для молодого Петрова. Дизайнер полностью согласен с этим: «Мне нужен творческий процесс, и я не могу представить себя вне этой креативной среды».

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов.

71: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

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26: Celebrating Salzburg 萨尔斯堡赞歌

2016年是萨尔斯堡成为奥地利领土以来的第200个年头。为了纪念这个特殊的周年，Hannah Lewis带您了解这座魅力之都独一无二的辉煌历史与城市特色

PHOTO: ANDREAS KOLARIK

1816年5月的第一天，在萨尔斯堡主教府邸（Residenz Palace）签订的一纸条约正式宣告这座城市成为了奥地利领土。为了庆祝这一历史事件发生200 周年，当地人举办了丰富多彩的活动；奥地利深深为萨尔斯堡的回归感到骄傲，这其实也不足为奇。作为历史上和近现代的文化兴趣中心，萨尔斯堡值得所有人的关注。这座阿尔卑斯山下的美丽城市被萨尔察赫河一分为二，几个世纪以来，这里如画一般的自然风光吸引着无数游客。层峦叠翠的山岱为这座迷人城市提供了最合适的背景，自然环境和人文建筑的珠联璧合也让联合国教科文组织列将萨尔斯堡古城的中心地区列为世界遗产。令人称奇的是，这里汇聚了多种建筑风格——包括

中世纪风格、浪漫主义风格、文艺复兴风格和巴洛克风格——而萨尔斯堡最有名的，就是当地保存完好的历史建筑。这当中就有许多令人印象深刻的古典建筑，还有不少曾是皇室贵族的府邸。毫无疑问，萨尔斯堡的悠久历史塑造了它今时今日的模样。如果要问哪一位历史人物对这座城市的文化品格贡献最多，自然非古典音乐作曲家沃尔夫冈•阿马德乌斯•莫扎特莫属。这位音乐大师诞生于1756年的萨尔斯堡，他的出生地如今已成为一座名誉世界的博物馆，也是城中不可错过的名胜之一。莫扎特是最受瞩目的萨尔斯堡名人之一，城中随处可以见他遗留下的痕迹。喜好甜食的游客，一定要尝一尝著名的莫扎特巧克力（Mozartkugeln）。这些高尔夫球大小的巧克力中包裹着开心果风味的杏仁糖和牛轧糖，1980年由Café Konditorei Fürst 糖果店首创——这家店至今仍是城中品尝美味甜点的最佳去处。不过，这里能见到的可不只是传统餐点而已。萨尔斯堡的高档餐厅分布之密集冠绝奥地利，城中现代餐饮业的热闹景象早已声名在外。米其林二星餐厅Ikarus便是一例，它

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C&A Stores in Salzburg Bischofshofen, EKZ Karo Bahnhofstr. 4 Eugendorf, FMZ, Rรถmerstr. 4 Salzburg, Europark, Europastr. 1

Salzburg, Rainerstr. 23 St. Johann/Pongau, Stadtgalerie Hans Kappacher Str. 1

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获得的殊荣早已不胜枚举。餐厅轮番邀请来自世界各地的名厨前来奥地利，在一个月的时间内全面接管厨房和菜单；虽然这一概念在提出之际饱受质疑，但如今它的成功已是无可争辩。该计划得到了奥地利名厨 Eckart Witzigmann的鼎力支持，他就出生于一座紧邻萨尔斯堡的小镇。Witzigmann和餐厅行政主厨 Martin Klein都认为，萨尔斯堡完美融合了丰富的文化底蕴和小城镇独有的魅力，为Ikarus餐厅提供了独一无二的优势。另一家坐拥米其林二星的餐厅 Senns Restaurant店址略有些偏僻，但离开市中心的这一小段路绝对是值得一探。主厨Andreas Senn精于烹制美妙可口的现代菜肴，不断突破厨艺的极致，同时不忘一切珍馐佳肴之精髓——吃的乐趣。 “这里的人们用开放的态度面对新鲜事物， ” Senn说道。从世界各地来到这座城市的游客也同样心态开明，而萨尔斯堡也成为了广受青睐的美食胜地之一。米其林星级餐厅Carpe Diem是城中最富盛名的餐厅之一，它为食客带来了独一无二的“指尖食物”概念。该店的大部分菜式仅一口大小，既有可口甜点也有开胃菜肴，盛在自家制作的华夫蛋筒中，送到您的面前。凡是高档餐厅聚集的地方，必定也有令人瞩目的精品店，萨尔斯堡就坐拥众多出类拔萃的商店。Alter Markt 广场和周边街区是游客们不可错过的去处；Escada、爱马仕（Hermès）和普拉达（Prada）等国际顶尖奢侈品牌都在这里开设了奢华富丽的精品店。不少独立商店同样尽显风采。高端多品牌精品店Diva by Makole是城中时尚人士的宠儿，这家风格时尚的商店为顾客提供来自Victoria Beckham、古驰（Gucci）和Brunello Cucinelli 等各大品牌的服装和配饰。这些品牌的熠熠星光也展现了萨尔斯堡时尚界 globalblue.com

的繁荣胜景，而当地的设计界也同样欣欣向荣。Möblich是一家内饰设计工作坊和陈列室，专注于废旧物品的升级再造，其独具创意的零售理念广受赞誉。该团队定期于店内举办活动和表演，借此增进游客的观赏体验，也鼓励顾客选择定制物件，以确保独一无二的个人风格。吸引着人们来到萨尔斯堡的，或许正是这种量体裁衣的态度。这座城市虽然相对较小，但也有着一座大城市所应有的许多可爱之处。 “尽管萨尔斯堡规模不大，但它有着大都会风范， ”Carpe Diem餐厅的主厨Franz Fuiko表示赞同。历史遗风与当代文化交织在一起，令人叹为观止的自然风光和建筑奇观交相辉映，此间种种尽在一座可靠徒步探索的小城之中，无怪乎奥地利要为萨尔斯堡高唱赞歌。

32: Quietly Confdent 沉着的自信在维也纳工作的Petar Petrov凭借着出色的设计作品在时尚精英的圈子里声名鹊起。Frances Wasem与这位征服时尚界的低调设计师面对面

Petar Petrov并不怎么引人注目。这位在维也纳工作的设计师沉默寡言，完全依靠创作实力和口口相传而不是报刊宣传或名人赞助而异军突起。尽管他还没有将奥地利最著名的时装品牌 Helmut Lang的影响力扩大到世界各地，但他已经从时尚编辑和模特偏爱的圈内红人，成长为最有可能继承 Lang时尚宝座的设计师。这名出生在乌克兰的设计师在保加利亚长大，并于90年代末前往维也纳学习经济学——这段经历出乎很多人的意料。 “后来我听说在维也纳应用艺术大学还可以学习时装专业。当时我觉得这个想法很新颖，便在短短的几周内整理了一份作品集。我入

选了这个专业，就这么一路走到了今天！”他笑着说道。Petrov长相神似年轻时的Yves Saint Laurent，但棱角更分明一些。他认为，他的老师们极大地影响了他的设计审美。 “我很荣幸能够师从Viktor & Rolf 和Raf Simons。他们对时尚的深刻见解对我的影响很大。” 于是， “不经意间流露出奢华气质”的作品便诞生了，以开司米、美丽奴（merino）羊毛、丝绸和小牛皮为材料，完美无瑕剪裁“专为现代女性打造，依稀可见男装的影子”。Petrov 说，他对剪裁的热爱起源于他的母亲和在索非亚度过的童年。 “实话说，我从来没有想过自己会成为时装设计师， ”他如是说道。 “但我的母亲是个裁缝，我在时尚和衣物的熏陶下长

大。我很幸运能够有我的母亲为我做衣服。” 家中有个私人裁缝可能是最大的财富，但Petrov表示，当时店内选择的匮乏同样影响了他成为一位设计师。 “上世纪八十年代和九十年代的索非亚没有很多服装选择，几乎买不到西方的衣服。我们对时尚的了解全都来自于MTV或过时的时尚杂志。但越是如此，我对时尚越是着迷，激励着我成为一个更有创意、更与众不同的人。” 与众不同是Petrov 设计作品的灵魂。 “Petar Petrov的每一件服装作品都是由精益求精的态度和特立独行的个性织就。不想在一群人中超群绝伦的女性不适合穿我设计的衣服， ”Petrov解释道。没错，印有猎豹

图案的长款幼羊羊毛大衣、银色金属纤维长裤、金色及膝长靴都充满浓浓的华丽摇滚风，只有气质女王才能驾驭。他的畅销之作包括色彩鲜艳的幼羊羊毛大衣、闪耀着宝石色的夹克衫和中性风格的剪裁作品。 Petrov以男装设计起家，第一个男装系列于2002年登台亮相，2009 年继而推出了女装系列。 “西服一直是设计系列的一部分， ”他娓娓道来。 “我们从零开始设计时装，我的许多设计受到了男装的启发。我很喜欢男装的精裁细作。选择我们的女性既独立又有个性，同时也喜欢各种惊喜。”他的 2016/17秋冬季系列就惊喜满满，经典的双排扣西装采用婴儿粉的华达呢（gaberdine）面料，大号的黑色纽扣则增添一丝俏皮的感觉。奢华风格和精湛工艺是品牌的核心。 “我们的时装都是在欧洲和索非亚最好的工厂加工的，我的母亲仍然会在她的工作室制作一些难度很高的作品。对于质量我们从不妥协。每个系列在一开始都会有许多颜色和材料的选择，我们会比较色彩和面料的搭配情况。如此一来，我经常会灵光乍现，创造出独特且出乎意料的作品， ”这位设计师介绍说。 “2016/17秋冬季融入了多款面料，例如幼羊羊毛、小山羊皮、丝绸和华达呢，这些面料被混搭或分层。我尤其喜欢织物的厚实感。” 如今Petar Petrov在维也纳已经家喻户晓，随着他的手袋处女作今年九月在伦敦顶级的Selfridges百货公司闪亮登场，他已经做好了向着世界舞台进发的准备。这个手袋系列以铜质的手柄为创意主题，与著名的奥地利现代主义艺术家Carl Auböck 工作室合作而成。这个上世纪五十年代诞生的超现实主义主题在手袋的带扣上发挥得淋漓尽致，完美呈现了Petrov 标志性的迷人和优雅。 “美丽的手柄代表着家族精神的汇聚， ”他介绍道。尽管现在 Petrov手下有一个团队 globalblue.com

可以派遣，创作新作品时他仍做到亲力亲为。 “我有一个强大的团队，但我尽量做到事必躬亲， ”他说道。 “我有很强的控制欲，我对质量、设计和材料绝不让步。”看来经济学真的不太适合对设计艺术充满一腔热血的Petrov，对此他也深表赞同： “我需要在工作中发挥我的创意，我不能想象自己在一个不需要创意的环境中工作。”

71: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税当您在全球顶级购物区中的30多万家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程：

1. 消费购物无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点领取您的退税款。联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€75.01即可节省高达购买价格15%的税。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退税手续费。

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‫أبدا ً الساومة عل الجودة والتصميم والواد‪".‬‬ ‫توحي هذه الحمسة الحقيق ّية للفن بأ ّن مسار‬ ‫القتصاد كان ليكون خيارا ً غريبا ً لـ‪Petrov‬‬ ‫الشاب ويوافق الص ّمم عل هذا الرأي قائلً‪:‬‬ ‫"أحتاج إل البتكار ول يكنني أن أتخ ّيل نفس‬ ‫أعمل خارج الجال البتكاري‪".‬‬ ‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free :71‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الضيبة‬

‫‪PHOTO: WOLFGANG HUMMER‬‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة‬ ‫التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة ‪Tax Free‬‬ ‫لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من ‪300,000‬‬ ‫متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين‬ ‫يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك‬ ‫غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن‬ ‫غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا‬ ‫السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫أنسجة مختلفة كجلد الخروف والجلد السويدي‬ ‫والحرير والجبدين كم مزجنا بعض الواد‬ ‫أحب النسيج الثقيل‬ ‫وشكّلنا منها طبقات‪ .‬فأنا ّ‬ ‫خاص‪".‬‬ ‫بشكلٍ ّ‬ ‫وصلت سمعة ‪ Petar Petrov‬ف فيينا‬ ‫إل ذروتها ومع إطلقه أ ّول مجموعة حقائب‬ ‫له ف شهرأيلول‪/‬سبتمب ف الركز التجاري البرز‬ ‫ف لندن ‪ ،Selfridges‬سيكون قد خطى أ ّول‬ ‫خطوة عل الساحة العالية‪ .‬تتض ّمن الجموعة‬ ‫مشبكاً بشكلٍ ٍيد نحاسية ابتكرها بالتعاون‬ ‫مع مشغل الص ّمم النمساوي العاص الشهي‬ ‫‪ .Carl Auböck‬وقد ابتُكرت هذه اليد أساساً‬ ‫ف الخمسينات وتعكس هنا أناقة ‪Petrov‬‬ ‫يفس قائلً‪" :‬يثّل جمل اليد‬ ‫الفنيّة والنثويّة‪ّ .‬‬ ‫المدودة لقاء الرواح التقاربة‪".‬‬ ‫رغم أنّه بات يتمتّع بفريق يكنه العتمد‬ ‫عليه‪ ،‬ل يزال ‪ Petrov‬يعمل كثيا ً بنفسه‬ ‫عل الجموعة عند صناعتها‪ .‬يقول‪" :‬فريقي‬ ‫ممتاز لك ّنني أعمل عل الجموعة بنفس‬ ‫قدر الستطاع‪ .‬أنا مهووس بالسيطرة ول أقبل‬

‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب‬ ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو ‪Global‬‬ ‫استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب‬ ‫الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل‬ ‫إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫الستداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للت ّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬

‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ €75.01‬وادّخر حتّى‬ ‫‪ 15%‬من ثن مشتياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ الستداد‬ ‫النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة‬ ‫عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬ف بعض‬ ‫الطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل‬ ‫طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول‬ ‫عل استداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

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‫‪Quietly Confdent :32‬‬

‫ثقة متكتّمة‬

‫ذاع صيت ‪ Petar Petrov‬التّخذ من فيينا‬ ‫مق ّرا ً له وأصبح من نخبة عال الوضة بفضل‬ ‫تصاميمه البارزة‪ .‬تلتقي ‪Frances Wasem‬‬ ‫الصمم التواضع الذي أس عال الوضة‬ ‫ل يسعى ‪ Petar Petrov‬إل جذب النتباه‪.‬‬ ‫ّأسس هذا الص ّمم عمله ف فيينا وهو من النوع‬ ‫التكتّم الذي يعتمد عل ق ّوة ابتكاراته والسمعة‬ ‫الجيّدة التداولة بدلً من العمدة الصحفية‬ ‫أو ترويج الشاهي لعلمته التجارية‪ .‬ف حي‬ ‫ل يشتهر عالياً بعد عل غرار ألع الص ّممي‬ ‫النمساويي ‪ ،Helmut Lang‬يتط ّور بسعة‬ ‫من مص ّمم أزياء محلّ يعشق أعمله مح ّررو‬ ‫ل عهد ‪Lang‬‬ ‫مجلت الزياء والعارضات إل و ّ‬ ‫الحتمل عل عرش الوضة‪.‬‬ ‫ترعرع هذا الصمم الوكران ف بلغاريا‬ ‫ليتخصص‬ ‫وانتقل إل فيينا ف نهاية التسعينات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ف القتصاد – وهو خيار مفاجئ بعض الشء‪.‬‬ ‫يقول مازحاً‪" :‬علمت ف ذلك الوقت أنّه يكنني‬ ‫أتخصص ف تصميم الزياء ف جامعة الفنون‬ ‫أن ّ‬ ‫التطبيقية ف فيينا‪ .‬كانت الفكرة جديدة بالنسبة‬ ‫فحضت ملفّي ف غضون أسابيع قليلة‪ .‬ت ّم‬ ‫إ ّل ّ‬ ‫قبول‪ ،‬وها أنا هنا الن!" من ينظر إل ‪Petrov‬‬ ‫ي َر رجلً رشيقا ً يذكّر بالص ّمم ‪Yves Saint‬‬ ‫‪ Laurent‬ف شبابه‪ ،‬إل أ ّن ‪ Petrov‬أجرأ منه‬ ‫بعض الشء وينسب نجاحه إل أساتذته الذين‬ ‫أث ّروا جمليّات تصاميمه‪ .‬يقول ف هذا الصدد‪:‬‬ ‫"حالفني الح ّ‬ ‫ظ لنّني تعلّمت عل يد ‪Viktor‬‬ ‫‪ & Rolf‬و‪ Raf Simons‬فتأث ّرت ف رؤيتهم‬ ‫الثاقبة للموضة إل ح ّد كبي‪".‬‬ ‫تخّض عن ذلك ما يوصف بـ "الفخامة‬ ‫العفويّة" الصنوعة من الكشمي وصوف اليينو‬ ‫والحرير وجلد العجل بالضافة إل قطع منفّذة‬ ‫بامتياز توحي بأنّها "ملبس رجالية للمرأة‬ ‫العصية‪ ".‬يشي ‪ Petrov‬إل أ ّن والدته هي‬ ‫من نّى عشقه للخياطة بالضافة إل طفولته ف‬ ‫صوفيا‪" :‬للصاحة‪ ،‬ل أحلم ق ّط بأن أصبح مص ّمم‬ ‫أزياء يوماً ما‪ .‬إل أ ّن والدت خياط ًة فكبت‬ ‫ُمحاطاً بالوضة والثياب‪ .‬وكنت محظوظاً لرتدي‬ ‫ملبس خاطتها ل والدت‪".‬‬ ‫خاص بك ف منزلك‬ ‫ربا يكون وجود خياط ّ‬ ‫ّ‬

‫فخامة مطلقة‪ ،‬إل أ ّن ‪ Petrov‬يقول إ ّن غياب‬ ‫الخيارات ف التاجر ف ذلك الوقت أث ّر أيضاً عل‬ ‫تط ّوره كمص ّمم‪" :‬ف الثمنينيات والتسعينيات‬ ‫ف صوفيا‪ ،‬ل تكن خيارات اللبس واسعة وكان‬ ‫من الستحيل تقريباً شاء اللبس ال–ربية‪.‬‬ ‫فاطّلعنا عل الوضة عب شاشة ‪ MTV‬أو‬ ‫نسخة قدية من مجلت الوضة ل غي‪ .‬لك ّن‬ ‫ع ّزز ذلك من إثارة الوضة ودفعني لكون أكث‬ ‫ابتكارا ً وفرادةً‪".‬‬ ‫استحالت هذه الفرادة جزءا ً من هويّة‬ ‫كل قطعة‬ ‫يفس قائلً‪" :‬ت ُخاط ّ‬ ‫تصاميم ‪ّ .Petrov‬‬ ‫من تصاميم ‪ Petar Petrov‬لتكون مميّزة‬ ‫وفريدة من نوعها‪ .‬ل أص ّمم اللبس للمرأة التي‬ ‫تحاول أن تتفادى البوز وسط الحشود‪ ".‬ففي‬ ‫العطف الطويل بجلد الخروف ونقشة الفهد‬ ‫والسوال باللون الفض العدن والحذاء الذهبي‬ ‫الذي يصل إل ما فوق الركبة سح ٌر فات ٌن ل يكن‬ ‫إل لمرأة واثقة من نفسها أن تظهره‪ .‬تتض ّمن‬ ‫أكث تصاميمه مبيعاً معاطف ساحرة بجلد‬ ‫الخروف وستات بألوان الجواهر الباهرة وقطعاً‬ ‫يكن للرجال والنساء ارتداءها‪.‬‬ ‫بدأ ‪ Petrov‬بتصميم اللبس الرجالية‬ ‫وأطلق أ ّول مجموعة له سنة ‪ 2002‬قبل‬ ‫أن يطلق مجموعته النسائ ّية سنة ‪.2009‬‬ ‫يفس قائلً‪" :‬ستبقى البدلت دوماً جزءا ً من‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫مجموعات‪ .‬نص ّمم الجموعة عل أساسها‬ ‫وأستوحي تصاميم كثية من اللبس الرجالية‪.‬‬ ‫أعشق الدقّة ف خياطة اللبس الرجالية‪.‬‬ ‫يُعرف عن الرأة التي تختار ارتداء تصاميمي‬ ‫تحب أيضاً عنص‬ ‫استقلليّتها وتيّزها لك ّنها ّ‬ ‫الفاجأة‪ ".‬تأت الفاجأة ف مجموعته لخريف‪/‬‬ ‫شتاء ‪ 2016/2017‬عل شكل بدلة كلسيكية‬ ‫مزدوجة الصدر باللون الزهري الفاتح من قمش‬ ‫الجبدين وتعطيها الزرار السوداء الضخمة‬ ‫لسة أخية مرحة‪.‬‬ ‫الرفاهية والحرفيّة راسختان ف قلب العلمة‬ ‫التجارية أيضاً‪ .‬يشح الص ّمم قائلً‪" :‬ت ُصنع‬ ‫مجموعاتنا ف أفضل مصانع أوروبا وصوفيا ول‬ ‫تزال والدت تصنع أكث القطع تكلّفاً ف مش–لها‪.‬‬ ‫ل نساوم أبدا ً عل الجودة‪ .‬تبدأ الجموعة‬ ‫عندما نشع بالطّلع عل ألوان ومواد كثية‬ ‫واختبار التناغم بي اللّون والنسيج‪ .‬وهذا ما‬ ‫يلهمني لصنع قطعة مميّزة أو مفاجئة‪ .‬ف‬ ‫مجموعة خريف‪ /‬شتاء ‪ 2016/2017‬استعملنا‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫‪ Andreas Senn‬استثنائ وعصي ولذيذ‪،‬‬ ‫يخرج عن الألوف من دون التخلّ عن جوهر‬ ‫أي وجب ٍة شهيّة أل وهو متعة الكل‪ .‬يقول‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫"يحب الناس هنا كل‬ ‫‪ Senn‬ف هذا الصدد‪:‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يقل ز ّوار الدينة من حول‬ ‫ما هو جديد"‪ .‬ول ّ‬ ‫العال انفتاحاً‪ ،‬فتستحيل سالزبورغ ُوجهة شهية‬ ‫بالطعام‪ .‬مطعم ‪ Carpe Diem‬هو من‬ ‫الشهر فيها ويعتمد مبدأ الأكولت الخفيفة‬ ‫التي تؤكل باليد‪ .‬معظم الطباق بحجم لقمة‬ ‫وتُقدّم كافّة الصناف الحلوة والالحة ف‬ ‫مخروطات من البسكويت مصنوعة يدويّاً‪.‬‬ ‫حيثم تكون الطاعم الجيّدة تكون الحلت‬ ‫الج ّيدة وسالزبورغ غن ّية بالتاجر الم ّيزة‪ .‬ل‬ ‫ب ّد من زيارة ساحة ‪ Alter Markt‬والشوارع‬ ‫الحيطة بها؛ تجد فيها محلت مذهلة لفخر‬ ‫العلمات التجاريّة العال ّية عل سبيل ‪Escada‬‬ ‫و‪ Hermès‬و‪ .Prada‬كم تجد العديد‬ ‫الحل الراقي التعدّد‬ ‫من التاجر الستقلّة‪ّ .‬‬ ‫العلمات ‪ Diva by Makole‬هو من الحلت‬ ‫الفضّ لة لدى محبّي الوضة ويعرض ملبس‬ ‫وأكسسوارات من علمات رائدة مثل ‪Victoria‬‬ ‫‪ Beckham‬و‪ Gucci‬و‪Brunello‬‬

‫‪ .Cucinelli‬وبفضل ثقل العلمات العروضة‪،‬‬ ‫يتّضح ازدهار مجال الوضة ف سالزبورغ وكذلك‬ ‫مجال التصميم‪ Möblich .‬مش–ل للتصميم‬ ‫تختص بإعادة التدوير‬ ‫الداخل وصالة عرض ّ‬ ‫للفضل وتشتهر بقاربتها البتكاريّة إل التجارة‪.‬‬ ‫ينظّم فريق العمل بشكلٍ‬ ‫دوري‪ ،‬مناسبات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الحل لتعزيز تجربة الز ّوار‬ ‫وعروض داخل ّ‬ ‫خاصة بهم‬ ‫وتشجيع الزبائن عل طلب قطعٍ ّ‬ ‫وضمن لسة شخصيّة‪.‬‬ ‫وربا تكون هذه القاربة الص ّممة بدقّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫هي ما يجذب الناس إل سالزبورغ‪ ،‬تلك الدينة‬ ‫الص–ية نسبيّاً لكن القادرة عل توفي الكثي‬ ‫من عناص الستقطاب الوجودة ف الدن‬ ‫الكُبى‪ .‬يقول ‪ ،Franz Fuiko‬كبي الطهاة‬ ‫لدى ‪" :Carpe Diem‬بالرغم من عدم تتّع‬ ‫سالزبورغ بالحجم الطلوب‪ ،‬إنّها مدينة عال ّية"‪.‬‬ ‫تراك تجد مزيجاً استثنائيّاً من العال الثقافيّة‬ ‫التاريخ ّية والعصيّة‪ ،‬بالضافة إل طبيعة خلبة‬ ‫حق‪ ،‬كلّها مجموعة‬ ‫وهندسة معمريّة رائعة عن ّ‬ ‫ف مدينة ص–ية لدرجة أنّه بإمكانك استكشافها‬ ‫سيا ً عل القدام؛ لذا ل عجب أن تحتفي النمسا‬ ‫بسالزبورغ‪.‬‬

‫‪PHOTO: HELGE KIRCHBERGER/RED BULL HANGAR-7‬‬

‫‪88‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪Celebrating Salzburg :26‬‬

‫الحتفاء بسالزبورغ‬

‫‪PHOTO: SPAR/ANDREAS KOLARIK‬‬

‫تصادف سنة ‪ 2016‬الذكرى الئتي لنضمم‬ ‫سالزبورغ إل النمسا‪ .‬واحتفالً بهذه الناسبة‪،‬‬ ‫تسكتشف ‪ Hannah Lewis‬تاريخ هذه‬ ‫الدينة الثية للهتمم وطابعها الفريد من نوعه‬ ‫ف ال ّول من أيّار‪/‬مايو ‪ُ ،1816‬وقّعت معاهدة ف‬ ‫قص ‪ ،Salzburg Residenz‬جعلت الدينة‬ ‫رسميّاً جزءا ً من النمسا‪ .‬واحتفالً بالذكرى الئتي‬ ‫لهذا الحدث‪ ،‬تُحيى مجموعة من الناسبات‬ ‫إذ ل عجب أن تكون النمسا فخورة بكسبها‬ ‫الحديث نسبيّاً‪ .‬وبا أ ّن سالزبورغ مرك ٌز للثقافة‬ ‫التاريخيّة والعاصة عل ح ّد سواء‪ ،‬ل ب ّد أن‬ ‫تكون مح ّط أنظار الجميع‪.‬‬ ‫سالزبورغ مدينة خلبة قريبة من سلسلة‬ ‫جبال اللب‪ ،‬يقطعها نهر ‪ Salzach‬إل نصفي‪،‬‬ ‫فتستحيل مدينة تُبهر الز ّوار بطبيعتها الرائعة‬ ‫منذ قرون‪ .‬تشكّل الهضاب الخضاء الجميلة‬

‫تقل سحرا ً‪ ،‬وبفضل‬ ‫خلفيّة مذهلة لدين ٍة ل ّ‬ ‫هذا الدمج بي الطبيعة والهندسة‪ ،‬ص ّنف‬ ‫مركز سالزبورغ التاريخي موقعاً للتاث العالي‬ ‫بحسب اليونسكو‪ .‬تض ّم سالزبورغ مزيجاً نادرا ً‬ ‫من الساليب الهندس ّية‪ ،‬يشمل عمرة القرون‬ ‫الوسطى والعص الرومانس وعص النهضة‬ ‫والف ّن الباروك‪ ،‬وتشتهر بالحافظة عل معالها‬ ‫التاريخ ّية با ف ذلك البان الكلسيك ّية اللفتة‬ ‫والتي كان البعض منها َمساكناً للعائلة الالكة‪.‬‬ ‫ل ّ‬ ‫شك أ ّن تاريخ سالزبورغ رسم خطوط‬ ‫حاضها وإن قيل إ ّن شخصيّة تاريخيّة قد‬ ‫وضعت الدينة عل الخارطة الثقافيّة‪ ،‬فل‬ ‫ريب أنّها الؤلّف الكلسيك ‪Wolfgang‬‬ ‫‪ُ .Amadeus Mozart‬ولد هذا الوسيقي‬ ‫ف سالزبورغ سنة ‪ 1756‬ويشكّل مكان ولدته‬ ‫عالي الشهرة وأحد العال التي‬ ‫اليوم متحفاً ّ‬ ‫ل ب ّد من زيارتها ف الدينة‪ .‬يبز إرث أحد‬ ‫ألع أبناء سالزبورغ واضحاً ف الدينة وننصح‬ ‫محبّي الحلويات بتذ ّوق ‪.Mozartkugeln‬‬ ‫إنّها كريات صغية من الشوكولتة الحش ّوة‬ ‫بالرصبان بطعم الفستق الحلبي والنوغا‪،‬‬ ‫ابتُكرت سنة ‪ 1890‬ف مقهى ‪Café‬‬ ‫‪ Konditorei Fürst‬الذي ما زال الكان‬ ‫الفضل ف الدينة لتذ ّوق هذه الحلويات‬ ‫اللّذيذة‪.‬‬ ‫ل يقتص المر هنا عل الطايب التقليديّة‬ ‫فحسب‪ .‬نظرا ً لكثة الطاعم المتازة ف النمسا‪،‬‬ ‫ذاع صيت سالزبورغ لطاعمها العصيّة‬ ‫الراقية‪ .‬وقد كان من نصيب مطعم ‪Ikarus‬‬ ‫الحائز نجمتي ‪ Michelin‬عدّة جوائز‬ ‫أخرى‪ .‬يقوم مبدأ هذا الطعم الذي واجهته‬ ‫الشكوك ف البداية لك ّن أحرز نجاحاً بارزا ً ف‬ ‫ما بعد‪ ،‬عل دعوة أبرز الطهاة حول العال‬ ‫لتو ّل مطبخه وقائة طعامه لشه ٍر كاملٍ ‪ .‬يدير‬ ‫الشوع الشيف النمساوي اللمع ‪Eckart‬‬ ‫‪ Witzigmann‬القادم من بلد ٍة محاذية‬ ‫لسالزبورغ‪ .‬ويتّفق ‪ Witzigmann‬ورئيس‬ ‫الطهاة ‪ Martin Klein‬عل أ ّن سالزبورغ‬ ‫تنح ‪ Ikarus‬التوازن الثال بي الثاء الثقاف‬ ‫وسحر الدينة الصغية‪.‬‬ ‫أ ّما مطعم ‪ Senns Restaurant‬ف‬ ‫سالزبورغ الذي يتمتّع بنجمتي ‪Michelin‬‬ ‫يستحق‬ ‫أيضاً‪ ،‬فيحلّق خارج السب تقريباً لك ّنه‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الزيارة وليس بالبعيد عن الركز‪ .‬طعام الشيف‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

90 | P RO D U C T S

REFLECTING GOOD DESIGN The handcrafted Mira range of mirrors is an exciting collaboration between Austrian designer Christine Hechinger and Viennese porcelain company Feinedinge. The mirrors are available in six pastel tones and four sizes, to suit every taste and home; they combine Feinedinge’s signature simplicity, quality and unique artisanal irregularities with Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 71

Hechinger’s eye for elegant design. Hechinger and the craftspeople at Feinedinge share a focus on practical yet efortlessly beautiful designs, so this collaboration is a perfect match. A Mira mirror would make an ideal reminder of your visit to Austria. dw Christine Hechinger x Feinedinge mirrors, from €47 each, Design Galerie, Stilwerk Wien, Praterstrasse 1, 1020 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 4050, christine-hechinger.com

SOUVENIR

Montblanc 4810 Collection and Hugh Jackman Pioneering since 1906. For the pioneer in you.

www.montblanc.com/pioneering

Amulette de Cartier

Wien - Kohlmarkt 1 cartier.at