SHOP Austria SS16

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AUSTRIA | АВСТРИЯ | 奥地利 |

AUSTRIA Style Edition Spring/Summer 2016

Page 26 CULTURE HUB: discover Vienna’s MuseumsQuartier, the city’s vibrant heart


MONDAY – FRIDAY 9.30 AM – 7 PM SATURDAY 9.30 AM – 6 PM Getreidegasse 19 5020 Salzburg


MONDAY – FRIDAY 9.30 AM – 8 PM SATURDAY 9.30 AM – 6 PM Kärntnerstraße 8 1010 Wien


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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen 捷克共和国

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Германия Gothenburg

Welcome to Austria

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Portugal Prague Riga Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna

Emma Cheevers

Vilnius

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Discover the best of this scenic country with SHOP. Read about Vienna’s extensive, vibrant MuseumsQuartier cultural hub on page 26 and discover Austrian fashion label Femme Maison on page 32 – plus much more. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15% when shopping in Austria. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Austria. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.



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Andrew Lyons Andrew Lyons created this season’s cover for SHOP Austria, inspired by our feature on Vienna’s MuseumsQuartier, known as MQ. His illustration shows a selection of what MQ has to ofer; the space, which celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, is a vibrant mix of museums, performance spaces, creative studios, restaurants and shops. Read more on page 26. Andrew’s other clients include the Wall Street Journal and Google. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

PHOTO: KATIE WILSON ELL

ILLUSTRATION: ANDREW LYONS

CONTRIBUTORS

Hannah Lewis Hannah Lewis, features editor at SHOP, read English literature and language at the University of Oxford before going on to study for an MA in journalism at the London College of Fashion. She has worked for Time Out in the Middle East and, more recently, has produced her own magazine in London. globalblue.com

Ginger Rose Clark Editor and fashion journalist Ginger Rose Clark studied English literature at the University of Glasgow. Besides writing for a number of publications, she also works as a fashion stylist. In this edition of SHOP she interviews the couple behind Austrian fashion label Femme Maison.


SORELLE

RAMONDA

Internationale Designer-Mode im TOP SHOP-IM-SHOP

Kollektionen führender, internationaler Designer für die ganze Familie. High quality fashion for women, men and children. мода ведущих интернациональных дезайнеров для вей семьи.

Wöllersdorf

bei Wiener Neustadt auf über 11.000m2 A- 2752 Wöllersdorf Römerstraße 3-9 Tel. +43 (0)2622 - 42 444

Sattledt

auf über 6.000m2 A- 4642 Sattledt Welser Straße 10-12 Tel. +43 (0)7244 - 8383

www.sorelleramonda.at

GRAZ

auf über 5.000m2 8054 Graz Center West Weblinger Gürtel 25 Tel. +43 (0)316 - 297 000


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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Andrew Lyons Contributor Ginger Rose Clark Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Fashion intern Danielle De Wolfe News editor Rebecca Davies Assistant news editor Theresa Harold Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Charlotte Rogers Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yangzi Liang, Manqing Li Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb

G L O B A L B L U E AU S T R I A Head of commercial Austria Jiří Macas Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialists Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko Retail service manager Hermann Danzmayr Sales manager Martin Tille Global Blue Austria, Zetschegasse 17, A-1230 Vienna, +43 (0)1 798 4400, info.austria@globalblue.com

Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Olivia Chou, Sammy Ha

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue


GRAZ INNSBRUCK KITZBÜHEL KLAGENFURT SALZBURG VIENNA


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CONTENTS

PHOTO: LISA + GIORGIO

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Products

Experience

14 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Austria this season 16 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

38 Cold Comfort Nothing says summertime quite like an ice cream. Theresa Harold seeks out the coolest confections in Austria 44 Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

News 20 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Austria 22 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

Features Cover story: City Of Culture Vienna’s MuseumsQuartier celebrates its 15th anniversary this year. Hannah Lewis discovers one of the world’s most extensive and exciting cultural spaces 32 Labours Of Love Austrian label Femme Maison is putting the country on the fashion map. Ginger Rose Clark talks to the dynamic couple behind the brand

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Guide 51 Maps and guides to Austria’s top shops and destinations

Essentials 71 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

Translations 72 Русский Перевод 81 美文翻译 89

Souvenir 90 The essential item to bring home

Above: an indulgent treat from Leones Gelato ice-cream parlour in Vienna


YOU ARE

GREAT ! MEN'S FASHION IN BIG AND TALL SIZES MARIAHILFER STRASSE 1A, 1060 WIEN www.hirmer-grosse-groessen.de


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CHECK OUT

STEP OUT IN STYLE Slip-on shoes get a luxurious makeover in Ludwig Reiter’s spring/summer 2016 collection. Crafted in genuine anaconda leather in dark brown with a leather lining and classic white boat soles, these shoes are the perfect addition to every man’s wardrobe and can be worn from morning to night, so don’t save them just for Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 71

casual weekends. Ludwig Reiter’s classic styles have been given a contemporary update this season with a variety of diferent textures and shapes. The footwear brand was established in Vienna in 1885 and remains a family-run business to this day. fm Ludwig Reiter Capri shoes, €498, Ludwig Reiter, Mölkersteig 1, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 5334 20422, ludwig-reiter.com


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BREGENZ · BÜRS · EISENSTADT · GERASDORF · GRAZ · INNSBRUCK KLAGENFURT · KREMS · LINZ · RIED · SALZBURG · SPITTAL · ST. PÖLTEN TELFS · VELDEN · VILLACH · WELS · WIEN · WÖRGL · ZELL AM SEE


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ALL BLACK Black lends itself to both classic and contemporary accessories 1

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1. Montblanc watch, €3,190, Montblanc, Alter Markt 1, 5020 Salzburg, +43 662 840831, montblanc.com

4. Z Zegna trainers, €295, Ermenegildo Zegna, Kohlmarkt 8-10, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 0979, zegna.com

2. B&O H7 headphones, €449, Media Markt, Landstrasser Hauptstrasse 1B, 1030 Vienna, +43 (0)1 54699, beoplay.com

5. Louis Vuitton sunglasses, €465, Louis Vuitton, Tuchlauben 3-7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 6151, louisvuitton.com

3. Mulberry backpack, €900, Mulberry, Seitzergasse 2-4, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 0976, mulberry.com

Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 71

PHOTO: (2) JEPPE SØRENSEN

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SEE THE NEW 2016 SPRING/SUMMER COLLECTION IN STORES NOW

ECCO STORE VIENNA Kärntner Straße 47 · 1010 Vienna +43 1 512 2962 ECCO STORE SHOPPING CITY SÜD Entrance 6 · 2334 Vösendorf +43 1 609 1027


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BRIGHT FUTURE Experiment with primary tones in clothing and accessories

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1. Burberry dress, €2,195, Burberry, Kohlmarkt 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 2820, burberry.com

4. Cos earrings, €19, Cos, Herrengasse 8, 8010 Graz, +43 (0)31 681 0544, cosstores.com

2. Chopard bangle, €2,490, Chopard, Kohlmarkt 16, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 719719, chopard.com

5. Giorgio Armani shoes, €750, Giorgio Armani, Kohlmarkt 3, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 2470, armani.com

3. Mac Russian Red lipstick, €20.99, Marionnaud, Herrengasse 18, 8010 Graz, +43 (0)316 826 1199, maccosmetics.com

Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 71


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PHOTO: (10) GEOFFROY BAUD

6. Miu Miu Club bag, €2,050, Miu Miu, Tuchlauben 7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 3053, miumiu.com 7. Chanel eyeshadow, €30.90, Douglas, Kärntner Strasse 26, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 9244, chanel.com 8. Roeckl scarf, €29.90, Roeckl, Mariahilfer Strasse 33, 1060 Vienna, +43 (0)1 587 7097, roeckl.com

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9. Dodo necklaces, from €180, charms from €105, Juwelier Heldwein, Graben 13, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 5781, dodo.it 10. Bulgari watch, €10,400, Juwelier Paul Koppenwallner, Alter Markt 7A, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 842 6170, bulgari.com


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PHOTO: © CATHRINE STUKHARD

SHOP WINDOW

HIGH FIVE Concept store Fünf in the spa town of Baden bei Wien, a short drive south of Vienna, specialises in natural, environmentally friendly products. All clothing stocked here, much of which is vividly printed, is made in Vienna; beauty products are free of ingredients such as parafns, Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 71

aluminium and fuorine, and accessories are sourced from local talent. Fünf is also a great destination if you are seeking gifts – we especially like the Soulbottles glass drinking receptacles. rd Fünf, Erzherzog Rainer Ring 5, 2500 Baden bei Wien, +43 (0)699 1040 4233, fuenf-baden.at


Willkommen in Österreichs schönstem Modehaus Sackstrasse 7-13, 8010 Graz (Nähe Hauptplatz) Mo - Fr Sa

9.30 - 19.00 Uhr 9.30 - 18.00 Uhr

www.kastner-oehler.at


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LOCAL LABEL

CARRIED AWAY

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 53

PHOTOS: (TOP) MAGDALENA JURISIC; (BOTTOM) INGE PRADER

Austrian-born Simone Springer and Yuji Mizobuchi from Japan are the designers behind accessories and footwear label Rosa Mosa. They work with local artisans to create unusual and innovative collections. This wicker basket (€299) is a playful take on the traditional bicycle basket and reinterprets the Austrian tradition of basket-weaving for a contemporary audience. th Sight, Kirchengasse 24, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)676 739 4407, rosamosa.com

Schella Kann is one of Vienna’s most exciting fashion labels. Explore the brand’s full collection of wearable yet concept-driven womenswear at its city centre fagship store. This must-visit independent boutique’s interior design was conceived by Conrad Simeon Kroencke. Fans of the brand will be interested to know that all design, pattern-making and sewing is carried out at the atelier in Vienna’s 2nd district where Schella Kann is based and also has a showroom. th Schella Kann, Spiegelgasse 15, 1010 Vienna, +45 (0)1 997 2755, schellakann.com

Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 71


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GOOD SPORTS

BEAUTIFUL CONCEPT

For spring/summer 2016, Kitzb端hel-based brand Sportalm has taken a fashionled approach and created a covetable collection of easyto-wear pieces for women. The family-run business is committed to Austrian production, and makes the most of local and traditional handiwork techniques. Everything is manufactured in Europe and the efortless clothing conveys the relaxed Kitzb端hel lifestyle. The brand has successfully translated this aesthetic to the 44 countries in which Sportalm is stocked. th Sportalm, Europastrasse 1, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 434994, sportalm.at

Lifestyle brand Callisti has opened a new Vienna fagship. The bright and airy three-storey space stocks womenswear, menswear and the Callisti home range. Callisti is a one-stop shop for day, evening and ofce attire; for nights in, the homeware department is stocked with fragrant candles, throws, pillows and books. rd Callisti, Weihburggasse 20, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)676 301 3010, callisti.at

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PHOTO: MANUEL TAUBER-ROMIERI

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 53


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EASTERN MAGIC Indigo Express is the top destination in Vienna for authentic Indian interiors and accessories. The showroom stocks solid wooden tables, stools, cabinets, sideboards and benches, all sourced in India and reclaimed from premises such as schools and teashops. Owner Irene HaberfelnerAdams has travelled widely in south Asia. rd Indigo Express, Linke Wienzeile 108, 1060 Vienna, +43 (0)664 946 9254, indigoexpress.at

MORE FROM Mร BLICH Interior design store Mรถblich is a workshop and showroom combined in one loft. There is a strong emphasis on restoration and upcycling, in a refreshingly modern style. As well as selling its own line of furniture, the company stocks accessories, tableware, jewellery and souvenirs, and also refurbishes antiques and creates custommade pieces for clients. With plenty of in-store events such as pop-up shops, brunches, poetry slams and art exhibitions, visitors can be sure of a pleasant surprise every time they stop by. th Mรถblich, Vogelweiderstrasse 83, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)664 8865 9139, moeblich.at

Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 71


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PERFECT FIT A made-to-measure suit or dress is not hard to fnd, but in modern times, bespoke shoes are less common. Scheer, however, still produces made-to-measure shoes in its workshop in the heart of Vienna, in a building of the Gründerzeit architectural style. The company dates from 1816, and little has changed about the manufacturing process that has now been handed down through seven generations of the founding family. The creation of each pair of handmade shoes takes around 60 hours and clients make three visits to the workshop before taking their natural leather shoes home; Scheer produces around 300 pairs each year. rd Scheer, Bräunerstrasse 4, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 8084, scheer.at

Swarovski moves into wearable technology with the Slake Deluxe Swarovski Activity Crystal set (€169). Its two on-trend bracelets house the elegant Activity Crystal, which tracks movement and sleep and can be synchronised to a smartphone. As you’d expect from the famous Austrian crystal brand, the bracelets also make a sparkling style statement. th Swarovski, Herzog Friedrich Strasse 39, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 573100, swarovski.com

PHOTO: PETERRIGAUD.COM

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 53

GET MOVING

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CITY OF CULTURE

Vienna’s MuseumsQuartier celebrates its 15th anniversary this year. Hannah Lewis discovers one of the world’s most extensive and exciting cultural spaces


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space cleverly fuses historic buildings with new constructions, and is now one of the largest cultural complexes in the world. Its museums, exhibition and performance spaces, creative studios, shops, research facilities and eateries cover over 90,000 square metres and attract four million visitors each year. MQ is far more than just a collection of museums; it is one of the most bustling places in the city, offering entertainment from morning until night. The Leopold Museum, home to one of the world’s leading collections of Austrian art, is the perfect place to start a day at MQ. Formed largely from pieces gathered by art patrons Rudolf and Elisabeth Leopold, the collection comprises pieces by Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele and many other modern painters. The space is largely dedicated to Austrian

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PHOTO: JULIA SPICKER

PHOTO: © SELEH ROZATI

n 1713, Emperor Charles VI of Austria commissioned acclaimed architect Johann Fischer von Erlach to build an imperial stable complex near the city wall of what is now Vienna’s Old Town. In 2001, three centuries after Fischer von Erlach began work, the structure was transformed into a new cultural hub: Vienna’s MuseumsQuartier. The MuseumsQuartier, known as MQ, celebrates the 15th anniversary of its opening this year – and has become a must-visit for anyone exploring Austria’s capital. The impressive baroque structure was redeveloped for modern use by respected Austrian firm Ortner & Ortner. The team was committed to ensuring a genuine connection between old and new, as well as creating a space where art and recreation could coincide and coexist. The resulting

Previous page: Kunsthalle Wien Above (from left): MuseumsQuartier at night; the Leopold Museum


Visitors are always sure to discover something new and engaging at MQ

PHOTO: © STEREOPTIK

art, especially Viennese art nouveau, and boasts the world’s largest selection of works by Schiele, alongside a number of pieces by other artists. The building’s design, which is largely open-plan with a huge inner court, is almost as striking as the artworks themselves. On the fourth floor, panoramic windows frame a beautiful view of the city centre, over Maria Theresien-Platz and the imperial palace. In what was once the winter riding hall of the royal stables, you’ll find Kunsthalle Wien, an exhibition institution for international contemporary and modern art. One of the most important contemporary art facilities in Vienna, its events focus on photography, video, film and experimental architecture, favouring interdisciplinary creations. Visitors are always sure to discover

PHOTO: © HERMAN SORGELOOS

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Above (above from top): The Way of Love and Death of Cornet Christoph Rilke at ImPulsTanz; Dark Circus at the Wiener Festwochen festival


PHOTO: MUMOK/DEINHARDSTEIN

PHOTO: © IRIS JANKE

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something new and engaging. The adjoining Halle E + G also hosts events throughout the year. This summer, the annual Wiener Festwochen festival runs from 13 May to 19 June, with events throughout at MQ, and the contemporary dance and performance art ImPulsTanz festival takes place from 14 July to 14 August. But even if there’s no festival taking place when you visit, MQ’s offerings are rich and varied, with something for every taste and age. Children will find endless entertainment at the Zoom children’s museum. Dance lovers should check out Tanzquartier Wien, the centre for contemporary dance and performance. Architecture fanatics will love Architekturzentrum Wien. Creative minds are sure to enjoy a tour of Q21, the 7,000 square metres of MQ dedicated to creation and creations.

Above (clockwise from top left): Until Our Hearts Stop by Meg Stuart at Tanzquartier Wien; desserts at CupCakes Wien; Corbaci café-restaurant; the Mumok art museum


PHOTO: HERTHA HURNAUS

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Home to local firms and artists, as well as international creatives invited to take temporary residence, this enormous studio space also holds exhibitions. No day at MQ would be complete without a visit to the Mumok museum of contemporary art. In the biggest collection of modern art in Austria you will discover pieces by Warhol, Picasso, Lichtenstein and many more. There are also many opportunities for refreshment. For an authentic taste of Austrian cuisine, head to Glacis Beisl for lunch. The restaurant combines typical Viennese tavern traditions and classic food with modern elements. Sip a regional wine alongside a dish of schnitzel or goulash, sitting on the picturesque, leafy terrace. Mumok is home to a branch of the CupCakes Wien bakery. Corbaci, a beautiful tiled café-restaurant inspired by Turkish coffee houses, serves modern dishes

inspired by both Turkish and Austrian cuisines and is the perfect place to take a break. For an evening meal it’s hard to beat Café Restaurant Halle; and at Café Leopold you can sip cocktails on the terrace into the early hours. While almost all of the spaces in MQ have their own shops, the store that really stands out is MQ Point. Much more than a museum shop, the boutique stocks unusual pieces and unconventional gifts, from mugs to bags to slogan T-shirts, all with a design edge; a local emerging designer is showcased each month. Vienna has long been worldfamous for its culture and is known not only as the city of music but also as the city of dreams. Embracing this spirit of creativity, the MuseumsQuartier not only protects the city’s cultural heritage but also shows Vienna’s enduring commitment to culture of all kinds


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LABOURS OF LOVE With its pure lines and soft colours, Austrian label Femme Maison is putting the country on the fashion map. Ginger Rose Clark talks to the dynamic couple behind the brand

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Right: Femme Maison spring/summer 2016


PHOTO: © FEMME MAISON

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Above (from top): Franziska Fürpass-Kermani and Sia Ali-Pour-Kermani; Femme Maison spring/ summer 2016

PHOTOS: © FEMME MAISON

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emme Maison is a dual love story. It’s a story about the love between a man and a woman, and it’s a story about their mutual love for a luxury womenswear label. Franziska Fürpass-Kermani and Sia Ali-Pour-Kermani first crossed paths in Vienna in 2011. Ali-Pour-Kermani had recently moved to the city from Milan. ‘After working intensively in fashion for a couple of years, I wanted to quit the industry entirely, and Vienna seemed the best place for it since the professional fashion infrastructure was definitely not as tempting as in cities like Paris, Milan or London,’ he explains. ‘Then, one day, while trying to find some headspace at a bar during a fashion event, I met a breathtaking and charismatic woman: Franziska. The love of my life and ... a fashion designer.’ Having graduated from the University of Applied Arts in Vienna the year before, in 2011 Fürpass-Kermani had just set up her own label, Femme Maison. The couple decided to join forces, with Fürpass-Kermani as creative

director in control of all things relating to design and production, and Ali-Pour-Kermani in charge of brand management and strategies. Five years later on, and Femme Maison is now a healthy, growing, thriving brand. Simplicity, effortlessness and purity are all appropriate words to describe Femme Maison garment designs, but the expression that the pair often uses to encapsulate the brand’s aesthetic is raw elegance. The notion of womanhood is central to the label, starting with the very name of the brand. Femme Maison is the title of a series of paintings by Louise Bourgeois, an artist who inspired Fürpass-Kermani when


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Femme Maison garment designs are simple, effortless, pure and elegant she was starting out. ‘The sense of an awakening and the sense of a re-invention of oneself were two elements which I was obsessed with translating into women’s garments,’ she says. The term Femme Maison took on its own meaning as she gradually began to explore and interpret the concepts in her own way. She adds that, in the name of the brand, a house is ‘a metaphor for a woman’s character and body – a personal world in which the Femme Maison woman feels authentic, powerful and elegantly comfortable’. Above: the brand’s studio

The spring/summer 2016 collection, for example, was inspired by the compelling 1960s film La Piscine. ‘I have always been strongly inspired by certain women and characters,’ says FürpassKermani. In this movie, the striking contrast between the characters of Romy Schneider and Jane Birkin was captivating, she adds. ‘One is grown up, serious and glamorous; the other is livelier and conveys the sense of youth.’ Of course the label itself is young yet sophisticated: in five years Femme Maison has progressively evolved. Growing as a brand doesn’t just require creative development. Knowing how to run a successful business is an essential part of the process, and there’s been a lot to learn along the way, as Fürpass-Kermani explains. ‘At the beginning, the brand was mostly


based on a strong poetic, artistic approach. But I quickly realised what Femme Maison needed to take it to the next level. From the role of designer, I also had to become a businesswoman heading an entrepreneurial venture.’ The synergy of the couple’s skills has been a strong force in the brand’s progress ‒ as well as making for an enriching relationship. This, says Fürpass-Kermani, ‘is very dynamic and broadens one’s mind, complements one’s individual knowledge and skills.’ They recently married, and their close bond means they support and look out for one another. ‘Whether at work or in our private life, it is so important that we take care of each other while still working at a very fast pace. We work Above: three looks from Femme Maison spring/summer 2016

PHOTOS: © FEMME MAISON

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PHOTO: © KATSEY

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The label has an international outlook and is stocked worldwide powerfully together, on a strong joint mission.’ The Viennese fashion scene may not have quite the same weight as that of Paris or London, but the couple behind Femme Maison speaks highly of the city. Their studio is in the historic Servitenviertel quarter. After handpicking the finest fabrics, Fürpass-Kermani gets to work there. ‘Every Femme Maison piece is designed and developed to achieve the perfect

silhouette and to guarantee the best fit and form.’ The duo has also focused on building firm business relations in Vienna. For example, guests of the luxury five-star hotel Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom will notice the elegant uniforms of the female staff at Das Loft bar and restaurant – designed by Femme Maison. The couple also has an international outlook and frequently works with new stockists across the world. ‘We really enjoy, and are proud of, being an internationally operating fashion company based in Vienna,’ says Fürpass-Kermani. As one of the labels putting Vienna on the international fashion map, there’s a clear sense that this is just the beginning of a long and fruitful trajectory for an ambitious couple and an impressive label

Above: the label’s uniform designs for the Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom hotel


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COLD COMFORT Nothing says summertime quite like an ice cream, and in Austria this cool confection is an art form served in parlours which match that creativity. Theresa Harold seeks out the best

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V E G A N I S TA This dairy-free ice cream parlour has been taking Vienna by storm. Founded by sisters Susanna Paller and Cecilia Havmöller, who have been vegans for more than 20 years, it produces small batches of artisanal vegan ice cream using only natural ingredients. These are freshly made every day, where possible from local and organic produce, and served in biodegradable cups with biodegradable spoons. The ice cream shop’s pastel-hued interior adds to the charm of a visit here. Veganista, Neustiftgasse 23/3, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 961 0845, veganista.at

PHOTOS: SEVERIN WURNIG/VEGANISTA

Austria’s fondness for ice cream cannot be understated. Thanks to the abundance of good quality milk and cream from the country’s dairy herds, and the fact that Austrians love a sweet treat, there are ice cream parlours almost everywhere. The country has a long-standing tradition of ice cream making, and artisanal producers often use recipes that have been handed down through the generations. In recent years, there has also been a surge in popularity for vegan offerings and now many shops offer dairy-free options. One of the most appealing attributes of much Austrian ice cream is that local ingredients are often incorporated. In addition to using milk from local farms, some parlours also make the most of regional and seasonal specialities such as Cornelian cherries or dirndl – small red berries that are not to be confused with the traditional skirt of the same name.


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PHOTO: NICOLASERAFINI.COM

EIS GREISSLER

L A ROM A NA

When long-established Italian ice cream company La Romana opened a gelateria in Vienna in 2015, it was an immediate hit with visitors and locals alike. La Romana was founded in 1947 and has an impressive heritage of crafting delicious ice cream. Visitors can choose from original favours such as pear scented with ginger, eggnog, and yoghurt with honey and nuts. Freshly whipped cream, organic milk, and free range eggs are the basic ingredients behind every favour available. La Romana, Stiftgasse 15-17, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 523 2300, gelateriaromana.com global-blue.com

The Graz branch of Eis Greissler, which opened in 2013, is a mustvisit for anyone with a sweet tooth. This stylish little shop carries a range of 24 diferent ice creams. Unusual favours such as goat cheese, pumpkin seed oil and star anise mean the ice creams at Eis Greissler are an intriguing departure from classic vanilla. Made with organic milk from a nearby farm, they ofer the perfect way to cool down on a summer’s day. Eis Greissler, Sporgasse 10, 8010 Graz, +43 (0)664 311 9195, eis-greissler.at


PHOTO: LISA + GIORGIO

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L E ON E S G E L AT O

Leones Gelato opened in 2015 in a former shoemaker’s shop in Vienna’s 8th district. Lisa and Giorgio Leone make traditional Italian ice cream at the back of their beautifully designed parlour. Throughout the summer, there is a changing selection of 12 ice cream favours, prepared freshly each day. In addition to the

signature gelato made with organic milk, there are also sorbets made from fresh fruit. Vegans will appreciate favour options such as coconut and dark chocolate. Leones Gelato, Lange Gasse 78, 1080 Vienna, +43 (0)1 352 5252, leones.at



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TOM ASELLI G E L AT E R I A

Open from June to September, the ice cream parlour at Café Dallmann in St Gilgen near Salzburg sells only the fnest homemade gelato. Harnessing the creativity customers also enjoy in the company’s pastries and cakes, the shop sells colourful, famboyant sundaes, elegant ice cream cones, and ice cream with cofee for those seeking something with a little more kick. With 24 diferent varieties of ice cream, there is something for everyone. Popular with locals and visitors alike, this welcoming café ofers outdoor seating and is a perfect place for relaxing with a cold dessert on sunny days. Café Dallmann, Mozartplatz 2A, 5340 St Gilgen, +43 (0)6227 22082, dallmann.at

PHOTO: EL GRAN DEE CC BY 2.0

C A F É DA L L M A N N

For more than 10 years, delicious tubs of Tomaselli Gelateria ice cream have been a common sight around the city of Innsbruck, especially during the summer months. The secret of the company’s success lies in the high quality of its ingredients. Fresh fruit and Tyrolean milk are processed according to an old Italian recipe. A wide range of favours, reasonable prices and natural ingredients make this is as close to a non-guilty pleasure as ice cream can get. Tomaselli Gelateria, Hofgasse 5, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 574609, gelateria-tomaselli.at


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STAY IN STYLE

PHOTO: STEPHAN LEMKE FOR 25HOURS HOTELS

The world’s fnest hotels boast desirable locations, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best

25HOURS HOTEL FRANKFURT BY LEVI’S Designed in collaboration with the legendary fashion brand, the 25hours Hotel Frankfurt by Levi’s stands out from the crowd. It’s conveniently close to Frankfurt’s main station and each of the 76 rooms is decorated in a diferent blue hue to refect the art, fashion and design of a 20th century deglobalblue.com

cade. The atmosphere is informal and friendly, and there’s even a Gibson music room where guests can brush up their music skills. The Chez Ima restaurant serves simple, hearty food and there’s an impressive roof terrace that’s the perfect spot for whiling away long summer evenings. 25hours Hotel Frankfurt by Levi’s, Niddastrasse 58, 60329 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 256 6770, 25hours-hotels.com


S H O P | 45

ALCHYMIST GRAND HOTEL AND SPA The Alchymist Grand Hotel and Spa epitomises Prague’s old-world grandeur. The hotel is set in a stunning baroque mansion which dates back to the 1500s; it has been thoughtfully restored to provide modern comforts while preserving the house’s rich history. Guests can choose from 26 deluxe

rooms and 19 suites, each of which is opulently furnished: expect four-poster beds, chandeliers and roll-top baths. The cosy Ecsotica Spa & Health Club is situated in the building’s former cellars. Enjoy excellent Mediterranean dishes at the elegant Aquarius restaurant which features handpainted wall murals. Alchymist Grand Hotel and Spa, Tržiště 19, 110 00 Prague, +420 257 286011, alchymisthotel.com


PHOTO: MATTIAS HAMREN & JASON STRONG

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THE THIEF Since it opened in 2013, the Thief has built a global reputation for cutting-edge design. The hotel’s permanent art collection is overseen by Sune Nordgren, the founding director of the National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design in Oslo. As a result, guests enjoy the beneft of expertly selected original artwork in their rooms as well as free access to the Astrup globalblue.com

Fearnley museum of modern art, which is located next door. Sample some of the best cocktails Oslo has to ofer in the hotel bar, where mixology is treated as an art form: fresh fruit is dehydrated daily inhouse, and even the ice cubes are hand cut. Take time to relax in the spa, which contains a pool, sauna, steam room and the city’s frst hammam (Turkish bath). The Thief, Landgangen 1, 0252 Oslo, +47 2400 4000, thethief.com


S H O P | 47

HÔTEL LE MONTANA Le Montana, the famous Parisian nightclub which has played host to countless celebrities, artists and socialites, is once again opening its upper-floor hotel. When planning the décor for Hôtel Le Montana interior designer Vincent Darré imagined the type of apartments famous creatives such as Pablo Picasso and Serge Gainsbourg

would have selected. The result is a series of six standout suites, each with a strong artistic style. On a fashionable and quiet street in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, this is one of the most original and enticing spaces in Paris, and a wonderful addition to the city’s portfolio of hotels. Hôtel Le Montana, 28 rue Saint-Benoît, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 5363 792028, hotel-lemontana.com


PHOTO: © 2015 WALDORF ASTORIA

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WALDORF ASTORIA AMSTERDAM Positioned on Herengracht, one of Amsterdam’s best-known canals, the Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam combines Dutch style and history with the luxury and attention to detail for which Waldorf Astoria hotels are known worldwide. The hotel is in a former merchant’s house with plenty of spacious, globalblue.com

light-flled rooms providing views of the adjacent canal and of the house’s pleasant courtyard garden. Afternoon tea is served in the refned surroundings of the hotel’s Peacock Alley, gourmets will appreciate De Librije restaurant, which holds three Michelin stars, and the cosy Vault Bar is the ideal place for a nightcap. Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam, Herengracht 542-556, 1017 CG Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 718 4600, hilton.com/amsterdam


PHOTO: GEORGE APOSTOLIDIS

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MANDARIN ORIENTAL MILAN The Mandarin Oriental Milan encompasses four 18th-century buildings; the original inner courtyards typical of grand Milanese buildings have been retained, and the interior is also in line with traditional, local dĂŠcor. A large fireplace is the central feature of the concierge area and

lobby, while the Mandarin Bar is the ideal place in which to enjoy an informal lunch or cocktails and dinner. In the hotel’s Seta restaurant, chef Antonio Guida creates a flavourful Mediterranean menu influenced by his southern Italian background; select a bottle to accompany your meal from the 500-label selection. Mandarin Oriental Milan, Via Andegari 9, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8731 8888, mandarinoriental.com/milan



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THE GUIDE

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Austria with a look at the country’s must-visit destinations. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/austria.

PHOTO: INNSBRUCK TOURISM

A Glimpse Of Austria

Above: Innsbruck, capital of the Austrian state of Tyrol, combines a picturesque mountain setting with a rich historic past


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Veganista Enjoy delicious dairy-free ice cream at the pretty Veganista parlour. Veganista, Neustiftgasse 23/3, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 961 0845, veganista.at FEATURED ON PAGE 38

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Schella Kann Take home a piece of Viennese fashion from the Schella Kann boutique. Schella Kann, Spiegelgasse 15, 1010 Vienna, +45 (0)1 997 2755, schellakann.com FEATURED ON PAGE 22

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Scheer Bespoke shoemaker Scheer celebrates its 200th anniversary this year. Scheer, Bräunerstrasse 4, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 8084, scheer.at FEATURED ON PAGE 25

Callisti Discover the latest womenswear collection at Callisti’s flagship store. Callisti, Weihburggasse 20, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)676 301 3010, callisti.at FEATURED ON PAGE 23




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WEMPE Statement jewellery is a key trend this season and Wempe’s spring/summer 2016 collection is nothing short of dazzling. Highlights include the Revival By Kim necklace, a chic, contemporary take on the classic curb-link chain necklace. This classic 1970s style has been redesigned in feminine rose gold and combines a bold handmade link chain with a solid necklace. By Kim’s exquisite Colonna cocktail rings are adorned with a tourmaline in either sea green or purple, and the spectacular haute joaillerie bracelet’s sapphire and diamond design was inspired by the crest of a wave.

Wempe, Kärntner Strasse 41, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 3322, wempe.de

Restaurant

Featured In This Issue

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BUCHERER

Bucherer, Kärntner Strasse 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 6730, bucherer.com

LOCAL TIP

PHOTO: SPANISCHE HOFREITSCHULE/STEFAN SEELIG

Bucherer has been known for excellence since it opened its first watch and jewellery boutique in Lucerne in 1888, and today it has stores across the globe. The company’s long partnership with Rolex allows it to offer an unrivalled selection of the brand’s watches. Bucherer’s own range of fine jewellery is also not to be missed. The exquisite La Cerise collection includes these delicate, ultra-feminine earrings with their intricate decoration of diamonds and tourmalines.

No trip to Vienna would be complete without a visit to the world-renowned Spanish Riding School – the oldest institution of its kind, with an illustrious history stretching back over 450 years. There are daily guided tours of the school, and visitors can also experience performances of classical horsemanship in one of the most beautiful riding arenas in the world. Early risers can also take the opportunity to watch the riders and their Lipizzaner horses at their morning exercise, accompanied by classical Viennese music. Spanish Riding School, Michaelerplatz 1, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 9031, srs.at


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S H O P | 61

PRADA

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

Miuccia Prada has created a bold and eclectic spring/summer 2016 collection bursting with statement accessories and embellishments. Dangling, oversized earrings such as this turquoise pair feature heavily; make-up is similarly high-impact. On the catwalk, silk slip dresses, metallic snakeskin coats and stripy suits were the order of the day. It is testament to the creative genius of Prada that such disparate materials can co-exist in one season. Prada, Alter Markt 13-14, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 848295, prada.com

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PHOTO: TOURISMUS SALZBURG GMBH

The Mirabell palace and gardens take their name from the Italian words for admirable and beautiful, with good reason. Built in 1606 and remodelled in the 1720s, the palace is a masterpiece of baroque architecture, while the gardens are home to a stunning fountain constructed in 1690, a rose garden and an orangery filled with palm trees. The hedge theatre hosts musical events during the summer. Schloss Mirabell, Mirabellplatz, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 80720, salzburg.info FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 60

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Featured In This Issue


S H O P | 63

LACOSTE

Spring/summer 2016 sees Lacoste stick to what it knows best: streamlined polo shirts, smart trousers, and unfussy accessories. This dressed-down outfit is the perfect solution to the smart-casual dress code. Founded by tennis champion René Lacoste, the French company is now a globally recognised lifestyle brand. The lightweight, breathable piqué cotton that Lacoste invented remains the label’s signature fabric. This season, it has been reinterpreted in a wide range of eye-catching colours and patterns. Lacoste, Sigmund-Haffner-Gasse 3, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 847809, lacoste.com

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WOLFORD Austrian hosiery brand Wolford has released a revolutionary new concept: tights so smooth and soft as to be almost invisible beneath clothes. Launched in November 2015, Pure 10 Tights are made of an innovative fibre that is finer and softer than silk. The tights are available in a wide range of colours including classic black, dark grey, and navy. The company, which recently

celebrated its 65th anniversary, has built a global reputation for unrivalled quality and innovative design. All of its manufacturing takes place in Europe, the majority at its Bregenz headquarters. Clients rely on Wolford for comfort, elegance and luxury. Wolford, Hauptplatz 9, 8010 Graz, +43 (0)316 822910, wolford.com

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Hans Sachs Gasse, Stubenberggasse, Kaiserfeldgasse, Girardigasse, Opernring & Joanneumring ● CH ● IS INI ● R B L L N II ● H A CE CU SA CO U S ÖG

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TOP 3 …MUSEUMS Archäeologiemuseum Schloss Eggenberg This archaeology museum is a treasure trove of unique finds, including the Strettweg chariot. Workshops give youngsters the opportunity to examine pieces first-hand. Archäeologiemuseum Schloss Eggenberg, Eggenberger Allee 90, 8020 Graz, +43 (0)316 8017 9560, museum-joanneum.at

Kunsthaus Graz The instantly recognisable Kunsthaus Graz art museum opened in 2003 and has since become a landmark in the city. Kunsthaus Graz, Lendkai 1, 8020 Graz, +43 (0)316 8017 9200, museum-joanneum.at/ kunsthaus-graz

Museum der Wahrnehmung For an experience unlike any other, venture to the unique Museum of Perception, where the senses are the subject of scrutiny. Book ahead to try the extraordinary Samadhi Bath, where visitors float in saline water in complete darkness. Museum der Wahrnehmung, Friedrichgasse 41, 8010 Graz, +43 (0)316 811599, muwa.at


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SELECTED STORES IN KAUFHAUS TYROL: Accessorize Benetton Beeline Cecil Crocs Danilin Deichmann Depot Dolce Vita Esprit Forever 18 G-Star Hartlauer H&M Humanic Home Interior Intersport Massimo Dutti Peek & Cloppenburg Resort S Oliver Saturn Super Dry Swatch WMF

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Tourist Information

Shopping Centre/Mall

Featured In This Issue

Hotel



71

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1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces. Spend a minimum of €75.01 and save up to 15% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

Refund Office Details Vienna Airport: Erste Bank Money Exchange, Terminal 1, Departures Interchange Austria, Transit Area Interchange Austria, Terminal 3, Departures, Non-Schengen Interchange Austria, Terminal 3, Transits/Departures, Schengen Area Downtown Vienna and Parndorf: Global Blue, Steffl, Kärntner Strasse 19, 1010 Vienna Global Blue, Parndorf, Designer Outlet Strasse, 7111 Parndorf Salzburg Airport: Salzburger Sparkasse, Departures, Landside Downtown Graz: Center West Graz - Infopoint, Weblinger Gürtel 25, 8054 Graz Downtown Innsbruck: Tourismus Information, Burggraben 3, 6020 Innsbruck

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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 26: City Of Culture

Город культуры Ханна Льюис рассказывает о венском музейном квартале MuseumsQuartier, который в этом году отмечает 15-летие и остается одним из самых интересных культурных центров в мире

PHOTO: © HERMAN SORGELOOS

В 1713 году император Австрии Карл VI заказал знаменитому архитектору Иоганну Фишеру фон Эрлаху построить императорский дворцовый комплекс рядом с венской городской стеной, которая теперь окружает Старый город. Три века спустя, в 2001 году,

этот ансамбль превратился в культурный центр нового времени – венский MuseumsQuartier. В этом году MQ отмечает 15-летие со дня открытия. За это время квартал стал тем местом, которое нельзя не посетить во время путешествия в столицу Австрии. Автором проекта реконструкции прекрасного барочного здания для современного использования стала уважаемая австрийская компания Ortner & Ortner. Ей доверили воссоздать истинную связь между старым и новым, а также оформить пространство, где бы мирно сосуществовали искусство и городской досуг. В результате

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им удалось искусно соединить исторические здания с новыми сооружениями, так что MQ вошел в десятку крупнейших культурных комплексов мира. Музеи, помещения для выставок и перформансов, творческие студии, магазины, кабинеты для исследований, кафе и рестораны занимают более 90000 квадратных метров и привлекают четыре миллиона посетителей каждый год. MQ – это нечто большее, чем просто собрание музеев: квартал стал

одним из самых популярных мест в городе, где интересный досуг возможен с утра и до ночи. Начать день в MQ лучше всего с Музея Леопольда (Leopold Museum), в фондах которого хранится одно из крупнейших в мире собраний австрийского искусства. Его основа – коллекция меценатов-покровителей Рудольфа и Элизабет Леопольдов, посвященная, главным образом, австрийской


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искусства – фотографии, видео, кино и экспериментальной архитектуры. Особое внимание уделяется междисциплинарным проектам. Словом, во время каждого визита посетители обнаружат здесь нечто новое и увлекательное. Рядом находится зал Halle E + G, где также проводятся самые разные события на протяжении всего года. Этим летом, с 13 мая по 19 июня весь MQ охватит ежегодный фестиваль Wiener Festwochen. А с 14 июля по 14 августа состоится фестиваль современной хореографии и перформансов ImPulsTanz. Но даже если на дни вашего визита не приходится никакого большого мероприятия, в MQ найдется занятие каждому, в соответствии с

PHOTO: © SELEH ROZATI

живописи, а особенно – венскому ар-нуво. Помимо произведений Густава Климта и многих других модернистов, здесь представлена самая большая в мире коллекция работ Эгона Шиле. Здание с открытой планировкой образует огромный внутренний двор – и это пространство впечатляет не меньше живописных шедевров. А сквозь панорамные окна четвертого этажа можно созерцать великолепный вид на город, Maria Teresien-Platz и императорский дворец. Выставочные залы современного искусства Kunsthalle Wien заняли помещение зимнего манежа королевской знати. Теперь это одна из самых важных локаций в Вене для представления различных форм современного

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его вкусами и возрастом. В детском музее Zoom всегда множество развлечений для детей. Поклонникам танца стоит посетить Tanzquartier Wien – центр современной хореографии и перформансов. Ценителям архитектуры наверняка понравится Architekturzentrum Wien. Творческим личностям придется по душе Q21 – это 7000 квадратных метров творческих студий, где работают венские компании и художники и иностранные художники в рамках арт-резиденций, а также проводятся выставки. И конечно, день в MQ не будет полным без посещения музея современного искусства Mumok с его самой большой коллекцией современного искусства в Австрии: в фонде

музея есть произведения Уорхола, Пикассо, Лихтенштейна и многих других. MQ предоставляет множество вариантов для отдыха и трапезы. Если вам хочется попробовать аутентичную австрийскую кухню, то стоит отправиться на обед в Glacis Beisl. В этом ресторане соединяются лучшие традиции венских таверн и классических блюд с современным гастрономическим подходом. Располагайтесь на живописной террасе в тени деревьев, потягивая региональное вино и наслаждаясь шницелем или гуляшом. На территории Mumok работает одна из пекарен сети CupCakes Wien. Кафе Corbaci – тоже идеальное место, чтобы


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сделать паузу и попробовать современные турецкие или австрийские блюда: атмосферу традиционной турецкой кофейни здесь подчеркивают красивые изразцы в интерьере. Для ужина нет заведения лучше, чем Café Restaurant Halle. А в Café Leopold вы можете потягивать коктейли на террасе в ранние вечерние часы. У каждой институции MQ есть собственные магазины, но именно MQ Point выделяется на фоне прочих. Это не просто музейная лавка, здесь продаются необычные вещицы и сувениры: от кружек и сумок globalblue.com

до футболок со слоганами – все с дизайнерским акцентом. А каждый месяц здесь в MQ Point выставляют работы местного молодого дизайнера. О культурной жизни австрийской столицы говорит весь мир. Уже давно Вена известна не только как город музыки, но и как город грез. Подхватывая и развивая этот творческий дух, MuseumsQuartier не просто защищает культурное наследие, но и демонстрирует непреходящую преданность Вены культуре во всем ее разнообразии.


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Плоды любви Джинджер Роуз Кларк поговорила с основателями венского бренда Femme Maison, который славится чистыми силуэтами и мягкой палитрой, а также помогает Вене оставаться заметной в модном мире Femme Maison – это двойная история любви. Она повествует о любви между мужчиной и женщиной – и их общей страсти к бренду качественной и красивой одежды для женщин. Франциска ФюрпассКермани и Сия Али-ПорКермани познакомились в 2011 году в Вене. К тому моменту Сия недавно переехал в столицу Австрии из Милана: «Интенсивно поработав в сфере моды пару лет, я решил покинуть эту индустрию. Вена казалась мне идеальным местом, поскольку профессиональная модная инфраструктура здесь была не столь заманчивой, как в Париже, Милане или Лондоне, – делится он. – Однажды я пытался найти свободное место в баре во время модного фестиваля и встретил сногсшибательную и харизматичную женщину – Франциску. Она – любовь всей моей жизни и... модный дизайнер». Окончив Венский

университет прикладных искусств за год до этого, Франциска Фюрпасс-Кермани в 2011 году только-только основала собственный бренд – Femme Maison. Пара решила объединить усилия: так, Франциска занимает пост креативного директора

PHOTO: © FEMME MAISON

32: Labours Of Love


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художницы Луизы Буржуа, творчеством которой вдохновлялась Франциска Фюрпасс-Кермани в самом начале своего пути. «Ощущение пробуждения и чувство обновления – вот что я страстно хотела передать через женскую одежду», – комментирует дизайнер. По мере того как она исследовала и интерпретировала идеи, название Femme Maison все больше отражало суть ее стиля. Франциска Фюрпас-Кермани подчеркивает, что дом в этом случае – это «метафора женского характера и тела, то есть тот индивидуальный мир, в котором женщина Femme Maison чувствует себя подлинной, сильной и комфортно элегантной».

PHOTOS: © FEMME MAISON

и возглавляет направление дизайна и производства, а Сия управляет брендом и разрабатывает стратегию. Прошло пять лет – и Femme Maison стал процветающим и активно развивающимся брендом. Простота, непринужденность и ясность – эти слова лучше всего характеризуют одежду Femme Maison. Однако сами создатели бренда чаще всего выражают его эстетику в формулировке «нерафинированная элегантность». Понятие женственности стало центральным для марки, и чтобы убедиться в этом, достаточно взглянуть на ее название. Femme Maison – это серия произведений

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Коллекция весна/лето 2016 создана под впечатлением от фильма 1960-х годов La Piscine. «Меня всегда вдохновляли женщины и образы определенного типа», – делится дизайнер. В этом фильме ее особенно впечатлил разительный контраст между персонажами Роми Шнайдер и Джейн Биркин: «Одна – взрослая, серьезная и чарующая, другая – живая, она несет в себе ощущение молодости». Разумеется, и сам бренд – воплощение молодости и в то же время изысканности: в течение пяти лет Femme Maison постепенно развивался. Однако этот процесс требует не только творчества. Знание законов успешного бизнеса также является неотъемлемой частью прогресса, и ФюрпассКермани, по ее собственному признанию, нужно было многому научиться: «В самом начале бренд базировался на художественном, творческом начале. Но вскоре я поняла, чего не хватает Femme Maison, чтобы перейти на следующий уровень. Помимо роли дизайнера, я стала бизнесвумен, возглавившей предприятие». При сложении вместе навыки и знания этой пары стали движущей силой для развития бренда, а также для обогащения их отношений. По словам Франциски ФюрпассКермани, это «очень оживляет

и расширяет сознание каждого из нас, опыт одного дополняется опытом другого». Они недавно поженились, и эта тесная связь стала источником поддержки для каждого: «И на работе, и в личной жизни очень важно заботиться друг о друге, не снижая деятельного ритма. Мы серьезно вкладываемся в нашу крепкую общую миссию». Может быть, венская модная сцена и не столь весома, как парижская или лондонская, но эта пара, создающая Femme Maison, высокого мнения о своем городе. Их студия находится в историческом квартале Servitenviertel. Вручную отобрав качественные ткани, Франциска ФюрпассКермани приходит сюда работать: «Каждая вещь Femme Maison прорабатывается до


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идеального силуэта, чтобы мы могли гарантировать, что она будет хорошо сидеть и держать форму». Кроме того, для этого бренда важно поддерживать прочные деловые связи с Веной. Например, гости роскошного пятизвездочного отеля Softel Vienna Stephansdom могут обратить внимание на элегантную женскую униформу персонала в баре и ресторане Das Lof – ее создает Femme Maison. Эта пара не останавливается на достигнутом. Для создателей бренда важно видеть перспективы на интернациональном рынке, поэтому они с удовольствием работают с продавцами по всему миру: «Нам понастоящему нравится быть международной модной компанией, работающей в Вене. Мы действительно гордимся этим», – делится ФюрпассКермани. Femme Maison – один из тех брендов, которые наносят Вену на модную карту мира. И есть ясное ощущение, что это только начало долгого и плодотворного пути амбициозной пары и ее чудесного бренда. 71: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free globalblue.com

Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €75.01 и сэкономьте до 15% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.


PHOTO: © STEREOPTIK

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美文翻译

26: City Of Culture 文化之城 今年,维也纳的博物馆区(MuseumsQuartier)将迎来15周年华 诞。Hannah Lewis带您探索这个全 世界最多元、最有趣的文化圣地 远在1713年,奥地利皇帝查理六世 命令著名建筑大师 Johann Fischer von Erlach在如今的维也纳旧城区

城墙附近建造一座坚不可破的皇家 马厩。2001年,Fischer von Erlach 开工三个世纪后,这座建筑摇身成 为全新的文化中心:维也纳博物馆区 (MuseumsQuartier 简称 MQ)。 即将迎来15周年华诞的博物馆区如 今已成为每一个奥地利首都游客的 必访之地。 这座雄伟华丽的巴洛克建筑在 享誉全球的奥地利公司Ortner & Ortner改造下,重新焕发出属于现代 的生机。设计团队努力确保过往和当 下的联系,让艺术和创意在同一个空


82 品。博物馆采用敞开式设计,搭配宽 敞的内庭,整栋建筑和展出的艺术作 品一样弹眼落睛。四楼的全景窗户可 以俯瞰市中心,玛丽亚·特蕾西亚广场 (Maria Theresien-Platz)和皇宫 的景致一览无遗。 在昔日皇家马厩的冬季观马厅, 您将看到展览国际当代和现代艺术 作品的维也纳艺术馆(Kunsthalle Wien)。作为维也纳最重要的当代艺 术中心,艺术馆主要举办摄影、摄像、 电影和建筑实验等活动,跨界作品尤 受青睐。每一次探访必会带来全新的 体验,令人流连忘返。毗邻的Halle E + G展览馆亦全年举办各种活动。 一年一度的维也纳音乐节(Wiener Festwochen festival)将于今 年夏季的5月13日至6月19日举行, 维也纳国际舞蹈节(ImPulsTanz contemporary dance festival)将 于7月14日至8月14日举行,届时博物

PHOTO: © FEMME MAISON

间相遇、共生。他们巧妙地将历史建 筑和新修结构融为一体,缔造出全球 十大文化建筑群之一。整个博物馆区 占地超过9万平方米,囊括博物馆、展 览馆、表演区域、创意工作室、商店、 研究机构和餐厅,每年吸引近四百万 游客。博物馆区不仅仅是许多博物馆 的聚集地,更是维也纳最繁华的地 区,熙熙攘攘的景象昼夜不息。 在利奥波德博物馆(Leopold Museum)开启您的博物馆区一日 游最合适不过了,这里荟萃的奥地 利艺术堪称世界一流。多数作品由 馆主Rudolf Leopold 和Elisabeth Leopold 收集,古斯塔夫·克林姆 (Gustav Klimt)和埃贡·席勒 (Egon Schiele)等现代画家的杰 作齐聚一堂。博物馆主要展出奥地利 艺术作品,特别是维也纳新艺术派的 作品,其中席勒作品馆藏数量名列世 界第一,也不乏许多其他艺术家的作

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83 馆区将举办多项活动。即使您不巧没 有赶上任何节日,博物馆区同样能提 供丰富多彩的体验,不同年龄、不同 品味的人都会有所收获。孩子们可以 前往Zoom儿童博物馆参与缤纷游 戏;舞蹈爱好者不该错过当代舞蹈表 演中心Tanzquartier Wien剧院;建 筑迷们会爱上 Architekturzentrum Wien建筑博物馆;Q21之行一定能 满足“创客”的胃口,这块7千多平方米 的工作坊区域专为创新和创意品而 设,堪称本土公司和艺术家的天堂, 也吸引了诸多国际创客安营扎寨, 会不定期举办展览。如果没有去过 Mumok当代艺术博物馆,那么您的 博物馆区之旅也是不完整的。这里有 规模最大的本土现代艺术作品展,沃 霍尔(Warhol)、毕加索(Picasso) 和里奇特斯坦(Lichtenstein)等名 家的作品应有尽有。 博物馆区还有许多填饱肚子的好 去处。想品尝正宗奥地利美食,那就 去Glacis Beisl餐厅吃个午饭。该餐 厅把维也纳酒馆传统和经典美食搭配 以现代元素。坐在风景如画、绿树成 荫的露台,啜饮一杯当地葡萄酒,再 来一份牛肉片(schnitzel)或炖煮牛 肉(goulash),好不惬意。Mumok 点心店是CupCakes Wien面包房旗 下的一家分店。Corbaci是一家铺着 精美瓷砖的咖啡馆,风格宛如土耳其 咖啡店,供应现代土耳其及奥地利菜 肴,是午后小憩的绝妙之地。咖啡餐 厅Café Restaurant Halle的晚餐无 出其右;您在Café Leopold 咖啡馆 的露台上小酌一杯鸡尾酒,伴着黑夜 等待黎明。 虽然博物馆区的每个展馆都有 自己的店铺,但是MQ Point 精品店 却一枝独秀,令人眼前一亮。这家宛 如博物馆的精品店出售非比寻常的设 计品和创意礼物,无论是马克杯、手 袋还是标语 T恤衫,都充满设计的灵 感。该店每月都会展示一位当地设计

新星的作品。 维也纳一直以文化而闻名于世, 不仅被誉为音乐之都,更被称为梦想 之城。博物馆区拥抱这种创新精神, 在保护当地文化传统的同时,也向各 种文化敞开大门。

32: Labours Of Love 爱的劳作 凭借纯粹的线条和柔软的色彩,维也 纳时尚品牌 Femme Maison将这座 城市推进了时尚版图。它的背后,是 一对充满活力的夫妇,Ginger Rose Clark与他们展开畅谈

Femme Maison(女屋)是一个双重 的爱情故事:既讲述了一对男女的两 情相悦,又蕴含了两人对一个奢侈女 装品牌的共同热爱。 2011年,Franziska FürpassKermani与Sia Ali-Pour -Kermani 的人生路线第一次有了交叠,当时后 者刚从米兰搬到维也纳不久。“在时 尚界高强度工作了几年后,我一度想 彻底放弃这个行业。于是维也纳似乎 就成了最好的去处,因为这里的时尚 产业缺乏专业的基础设施,不像巴 黎、米兰或伦敦一样充满诱惑、令人 动摇,”他解释道。“然后有一天,我刚 想从一场时尚活动中抽出身去酒吧散 散心,就遇到了一个魅力四射、令人窒 息的女人:Franziska。她是我一生的 挚爱,而且……也是个时尚设计师。” 当时Fürpass -Kermani刚从维 也纳应用艺术大学毕业一年,并创立 了她自己的品牌 Femme Maison。这 对爱侣决定携手并进,由Fürpass Kermani担任创意总监,管控与设计 和生产相关的一切事务;Ali-Pour Kermani负责品牌管理与战略。五年 很快过去了,如今的Femme Maison 已经是一个蒸蒸日上、蓬勃发展的 品牌。


“简单”、“轻松”、“纯粹”这些词, 都能恰当地描述Femme Maison的 服饰。但他们俩人经常用来概括其 品牌美学的表达方式,是“原生的优 雅”。从名字就能看出,该品牌的核 心在于女人味。Femme Maison是 Louise Bourgeois系列画作的标题, 这位画家在Fürpass-Kermani事业 刚起步时给予了她灵感。“我痴迷于 将那种觉醒和再造自我的感觉转化 进女性服装里,”她说道。她逐渐开始 以自己的方式探索和解读这些概念, globalblue.com

而“Femme Maison”这个名字也有 了自己的含义。她补充说,品牌名字 里的“Maison(房屋)”一词,“是暗喻 女性的人格和身体——在这个私人世 界中,身着Femme Maison牌服饰 的女性会感到真实、有力、舒适而不 失优雅”。 举例而言,2016春夏系列的灵 感源自20 世纪60年代引人入胜的 电影《游泳池》(La Piscine)。 “某些女性和角色总能给我强烈的启 发,” Fürpass-Kermani说。她还提

PHOTOS: © FEMME MAISON

84


85 到,影片中Romy Schneider 和 Jane Birkin这两个角色的鲜明对比颇为扣 人心弦。“一个人成熟、严肃、魅力无 比,另一个人则更加活泼、流露出青 春的感觉。” 该品牌本身当然也是既年轻又老 练:短短五年内,Femme Maison突 飞猛进。但品牌要想蓬勃成长,需要 的不仅是创意方面的发展。知晓成功 企业的运营之道,是品牌发展过程中 的关键部分。正如Fürpass-Kermani 所说,这一路有太多要学习。“一开 始,我们的品牌主要走诗性和艺术性 的路线。但我很快意识到,Femme Maison需要更上一层楼。我作为设 计师,也不得不成为一个女商人,开 辟企业发展征程。” 夫妇俩的技艺完美融合,极大 地推动了品牌的进步,也使两人的关 系无比坚实。在Fürpass-Kermani 口中,这种关系“充满活力,而且能拓 宽思路,使个人的知识和技能更加完 备。”于近期完婚的两人可谓密不可 分,这意味着他们会全心支持和照顾 对方。“无论在工作上还是私人生活 中,彼此照应的同时要能快节奏地工 作,这一点非常重要。我们珠联璧合, 一同披荆斩棘。” 维也纳时尚圈的份量也许不及 巴黎和伦敦,但Femme Maison背 后的这对夫妇却对其赞赏有加。他们 的工作室位于历史悠久的Servitenviertel区。Fürpass-Kermani带着 精挑细选的上乘织物,来到这里工 作。“Femme Maison每件衣服的设 计和制作,都是为了塑造完美的轮廓 和最佳的外形,确保最合身。”这对夫 妇也致力于在维也纳建立扎实的商 业关系。举例而言,住在五星级奢侈 酒店Softel Vienna Stephansdom 的宾客,会留意到在Das Loft 酒吧工 作的女性身着典雅的制服——来自 Femme Maison的设计。但他们俩 的努力不会止步于此。国际前景铺陈

眼前,这对夫妇与世界各地的新专卖 店频频合作。“能够成为一家立足维 也纳、面向世界运营的时尚公司,我 们真的很享受也很自豪,” FürpassKermani如是说。 作为将维也纳放进国际时尚版图 的品牌之一,这对雄心勃勃的夫妇和 这个令人赞叹的品牌,显然才刚刚踏 上一段漫长而硕果累累的旅程。

71: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球,尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多 家商店消费时,环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退税服务(Tax Free Shopping)为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球 蓝联(Global Blue)获得购物退税, 您怎能错过?您要做的只是寻找蓝星 标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 (Global Blue)服务,然后遵循我们 简单的退税过程:

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费,请索要环球蓝联 退税表格(Global Blue Tax Free Form),并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发城 市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格 上盖章,然后再到环球蓝联的退税点 领取您的退税款。 联系方式: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€75.01即可节约高达购买 价格15%的税。请注意:最终退款将 包含增值税总额,但是要扣除管理手 续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为 单位收取现金退税手续费。


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‫بالطبع العلمة بح ّد ذاتها يافعة لكن‬ ‫معقّدة‪ :‬تط ّورت ‪ Femme Maison‬بشكلٍ‬ ‫ملحوظ ف غضون خمس سنوات‪ .‬لكن ل‬ ‫يقتص تقدّم العلمة عل التط ّور البتكاري‬ ‫فحسب‪ .‬الدراية بإدارة العمل بنجاح جزء‬ ‫أساس من العمليّة وتشح ‪Fürpass-‬‬ ‫‪ Kermani‬أنّها تعلّمت الكثي ف تلك‬ ‫الفتة‪“ .‬ف البداية اعتمدت العلمة بشكلٍ‬ ‫أساس عل مقاربة شعريّة فنيّة متينة‪ .‬لكن‬ ‫سعان ما أدركت ما تحتاجه ‪Femme‬‬ ‫‪ Maison‬لتنتقل إل الرحلة التالية‪.‬‬ ‫بالضافة إل دوري كمص ّممة أزياء‪ ،‬كان ل‬ ‫ب ّد ل أن أصبح امرأة أعمل تدير مشوعاً‬ ‫رياديّاً‪”.‬‬ ‫ض ّم الثنائ مهاراتهم إل بعضها البع”‬ ‫فاستحالت ق ّوة دافعة لتقدّم العلمة وع ّززت‬ ‫علقتهم‪ .‬تقول ‪ Fürpass-Kermani‬ف‬ ‫هذا الصدد‪“ :‬التعاون أم ٌر ديناميك للغاية‬ ‫ويوسع الفاق كم يك ّمل العرفة والهارات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الفرديّة‪ ”.‬تز ّوجا مؤ ّخرا ً وزاد ارتباطهم الوثيق‬ ‫الدعم والعناية التبادلة‪“ .‬ف حياتنا العمل ّية‬ ‫والشخصيّة‪ ،‬نحرص عل العتناء ببعضنا‬ ‫البع” مع الحافظة عل وتية عمل سيعة‪.‬‬ ‫نعمل سويّاً بق ّوة من أجل َم َه ّمة مشتكة‬ ‫راسخة‪”.‬‬ ‫قد ل يكون مجال الزياء ف فيينا‬ ‫بثابته ف باريس أو لندن‪ ،‬لكن يشيد أصحاب‬ ‫‪ Femme Maison‬بالدينة‪ .‬يقع مشغلهم‬ ‫حي ‪ Servitenviertel‬التاريخي‪.‬‬ ‫ف ّ‬ ‫تختار ‪ Fürpass-Kermani‬شخصيّاً‬ ‫“كل قطعة من ‪Femme‬‬ ‫أفخر القمشة‪ّ .‬‬ ‫‪ Maison‬مص ّممة ومنفّذة لتقدّم الطللة‬ ‫الثاليّة وتضمن أفضل شكلٍ ومقاس‪ ”.‬كم‬ ‫حرص الثنائ عل بناء علقات أعمل متينة‬ ‫ف فيينا‪ .‬عل سبيل الثال‪ ،‬يلحظ نزلء فندق‬ ‫‪Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom‬‬

‫الزي النيق الذي ترتديه العاملت ف‬ ‫الفاخر ّ‬ ‫حانة ومطعم ‪ ،Das Loft‬وهو من تصميم‬ ‫‪ .Femme Maison‬إل أ ّن طموح الزوجي‬ ‫أكب من ذلك‪ :‬لديهمً انتشار عالي ويعملن‬ ‫باستمرار مع ت ّجار من حول العال‪ .‬تقول‬ ‫شفنا‬ ‫‪“ :Fürpass-Kermani‬يسعدنا وي ّ‬ ‫أن نكون شكة أزياء واقعة ف فيينا وعاملة‬ ‫حول العال”‪.‬‬

‫فيم تضع إحدى العلمات مدينة فيينا‬ ‫عل خارطة الزياء العال ّية‪ ،‬من الواضح أنّها‬ ‫مج ّرد بداية مسية طويلة ومثمرة لزوجي‬ ‫طموحي وعلمة رائعة‪.‬‬ ‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free : 71‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الضيبة‬ ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪Global Blue‬‬ ‫خدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة ‪Tax‬‬ ‫‪ Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من‬ ‫‪ 270,000‬متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق‬

‫حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين‬ ‫يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو‬ ‫تسأل عن غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع‬ ‫خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب‬ ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو ‪Global‬‬ ‫استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب‬ ‫الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة‬ ‫عل إيصالتك قبل قب” الستداد من أحد‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫مكاتب الستداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪111 111 232 +421‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ €75.01‬وادّخر حتّى‬ ‫‪ 15%‬من ثن مشتياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ‬

‫الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع‬ ‫الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم‬ ‫إداري‪ .‬ف بع” الطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض رسم خدمة‬ ‫نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال‬ ‫رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬


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‫“بعد أن عملت بجهد ف الزياء لسنتي‪،‬‬ ‫رغبت بالنقطاع تاماً عن هذا الجال وبدت‬ ‫فيينا الكان الثال إذ أ ّن البنى التحتيّة للزياء‬ ‫الحتافيّة فيها غي جاذبة مقارن ًة مع مدن‬ ‫أخرى كباريس أو ميلنو أو لندن‪ .‬وذات يوم‪،‬‬ ‫بينم كنت أبحث عن مكان هادئ ف حانة‬ ‫خلل إحدى مناسبات الزياء‪ ،‬التقيت امرأة‬ ‫جذّابة تخطف النفاس وهي ‪.Franziska‬‬ ‫حب حيات ‪ ...‬ومص ّممة أزياء‪”.‬‬ ‫إنّها ّ‬ ‫تخ ّرجت ‪Fürpass-Kermani‬‬ ‫من جامعة الفنون التطبيقيّة ف فيينا قبل‬ ‫وأسست علمتها التجاريّة ‪Femme‬‬ ‫سنة ّ‬ ‫‪ Maison‬سنة ‪ .2011‬ق ّرر الثنائ ض ّم‬ ‫جهودهم فتولّت ‪Fürpass-Kermani‬‬ ‫وكل ما يتعلّق بالتصميم‬ ‫الدارة البتكاريّة ّ‬ ‫ل ‪Ali-Pour-‬‬ ‫والنتاج‪ ،‬ف حي تو ّ‬ ‫‪ Kermani‬إدارة العلمة التجاريّة ووضع‬ ‫الستاتيج ّيات‪ .‬وها هي ‪Femme Maison‬‬ ‫اليوم بعد خمس سنوات‪ ،‬علمة مزدهرة‬ ‫ناجحة‪.‬‬ ‫يكن وصف أزياء ‪Femme Maison‬‬ ‫بالبسيطة والعفويّة والنقيّة‪ ،‬لكن غالباً ما‬ ‫يستعمل الثنائ مصطلح “الناقة الصافية”‬

‫لتجسيد أسلوب العلمة‪ .‬عنص النوثة متجذّر‬ ‫ف العلمة‪ ،‬بدءا ً من إسمها‪ .‬وتجدر الشارة‬ ‫إل أ ّن ‪ Femme Maison‬هو إسم سلسلة‬ ‫رسومات للف ّنانة ‪Louise Bourgeois‬‬ ‫التي ألهمت ‪ Fürpass-Kermani‬ف‬ ‫انطلقتها‪ .‬تقول ف هذا السياق‪“ :‬كنت‬ ‫حس إيقاظ الذات وإعادة‬ ‫مهووسة بتجمة ّ‬ ‫ابتكار الذات إل ملبس نسائ ّية‪ ”.‬شع‬ ‫يجسد معناه‬ ‫مصطلح ‪ّ Femme Maison‬‬ ‫عندما بدأت الص ّممة تدريج ّياً تستكشف‬ ‫الخاصة‪ .‬تضيف‬ ‫وتفسها بطريقتها‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الفاهيم ّ‬ ‫أ ّن كلمة ‪ house‬أي “منزل” ف إسم العلمة‬ ‫هو “تشبيه مجازي لشخص ّية الرأة وجسمها‪،‬‬ ‫أي أنّه عال شخص تشعر فيه الرأة بالصالة‬ ‫والق ّوة والراحة ف ج ّو من الناقة”‪.‬‬ ‫استوحيت مجموعة ربيع‪/‬صيف ‪2016‬‬ ‫عل سبيل الثال من فيلم الستينات الشهي‬ ‫‪ .La Piscine‬تقول الصم ّمة‪“ :‬لطالا‬ ‫وجدت اللهام ف نساء وشخصيّات معيّنة‪.‬‬ ‫أس“ ف هذا الفيلم التناق” الذهل بي‬ ‫شخص ّيتي ‪ Romy Schneider‬و‪Jane‬‬ ‫‪ .Birkin‬إحداهم ناضجة وجديّة وساحرة‬ ‫والخرى أكث حيويّة وتعبق بروح الشباب‪”.‬‬

‫‪PHOTO: © KATSEY‬‬


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‫‪Labours Of Love: 32‬‬

‫الحب‬ ‫من أجل ّ‬

‫من خلل خطوطها النقيّة وألوانها الهادئة‪،‬‬ ‫تحفظ علمة ‪ Femme Maison‬الواقعة‬ ‫ف فيينا مكاناً للمدينة عل خارطة الزياء‪.‬‬ ‫تتحدّث ‪ Ginger Rose Clark‬إل الثنائ‬ ‫الديناميك الكامن خلف العلمة‬ ‫حب مزدوجة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ّ Femme Maison‬‬ ‫قصة ّ‬ ‫وقصة‬ ‫حب بي رجل وامرأة ّ‬ ‫إنّها ّ‬ ‫قصة ّ‬ ‫مختصة باللبس النسائيّة‬ ‫حبّهم لعلمة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الفاخرة‪ .‬التقى ‪Franziska Fürpasse-‬‬ ‫‪ Kermani‬و‪Sia Ali-Pour-Kermani‬‬ ‫للم ّرة الول ف فيينا سنة ‪ .2011‬كان‬ ‫‪ Ali-Pour-Kermani‬قد انتقل حديثاً‬ ‫إل الدينة من ميلنو‪ .‬يقول ف هذا الصدد‪:‬‬

‫‪PHOTO: © FEMME MAISON‬‬

‫كل الذوق والعمر‪.‬‬ ‫متعدّدة ومتن ّوعة ترض ّ‬ ‫يحظى الطفال بتسلية رائعة ف متحف‬ ‫الطفال ‪ .Zoom‬وننصح محبّي الرقص بزيارة‬ ‫‪ Tanzquartier Wien‬وهو مركز للرقص‬ ‫العاص والداء‪ .‬وسيذهل مح ّبو العمرة‬ ‫بتحف ‪.Architekturzentrum Wien‬‬ ‫أ ّما أصحاب العقول البتكرة‪ ،‬فسيستمتعون‬ ‫بجولة ف ‪ Q21‬وهي مساحة ‪ 7000‬مت‬ ‫مخصصة للبتكار والبتكارات‪.‬‬ ‫من ‪ّ MQ‬‬ ‫تض ّم هذه الساحة الشاسعة شكات وف ّناني‬ ‫محليّي ويُدعى إليها مبتكرون عاليّون ٍ‬ ‫لوقت‬ ‫مؤقّت‪ ،‬كم تحيي العارض‪ .‬ول يكتمل النهار‬ ‫ف ‪ MQ‬من دون زيارة متحف ‪Mumok‬‬ ‫للف ّن العاص‪ .‬وف أكب مجموعة للف ّن‬ ‫لكل من‬ ‫الحديث ف النمسا‪ ،‬ستجد أعملً ّ‬ ‫‪ Warhol‬و‪ Picasso‬و‪Lichtenstein‬‬ ‫وغيهم‪.‬‬ ‫ث ّة كذلك خيارات كثية ف مجال‬ ‫الطاعم‪ .‬لتذ ّوق طعم الطبخ النمساوي‬ ‫الصيل‪ ،‬تناول الغذاء ف ‪.Glacis Beisl‬‬ ‫يزج الطعم تقاليد الحانة النموذج ّية ف‬ ‫فيينا والكل الكلسيك مع عناص حديثة‪.‬‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫احتس كأساً من النبيذ القليمي مع طبق‬ ‫‪ schnitzel‬أو ‪ goulash‬جالساً عل ال ّتاس‬ ‫الش ّجر الرائع‪ .‬ث ّة أيضاً ‪ Mumok‬وهو فرع‬ ‫من أفران ‪.CupCakes Wien‬‬ ‫و‪ Corbaci‬مقهى ذو بلط جميل مستوحى‬ ‫من القاهي التكيّة ويقدّم أطباقاً عصيّة‬ ‫مستوحاة من الطبخي التك والنمساوي‬ ‫ويشكّل الكان الثال للستمتاع بقسط من‬ ‫الراحة‪ .‬أ ّما إن كنت تريد الكل ف الساء‪ ،‬فل‬ ‫يكن مقاومة ‪Café Restaurant Halle‬‬ ‫ويكن ف ‪ Café Leopold‬احتساء الشاب‬ ‫عل التاس حتّى ساعات الفجر‪.‬‬ ‫لكل مساحات العرض ف ‪ MQ‬محلتها‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫حق هو ‪MQ‬‬ ‫الخاصة‪ ،‬لكن التجر الميّز عن ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫محل تابع لتحف‬ ‫‪ .Point‬إنه أكث من مج ّرد ّ‬ ‫إذ يض ّم قطع تصميم فريدة من نوعها وهدايا‬ ‫غي تقليديّة‪ ،‬من أكواب إل حقائب وقمصان‬ ‫تحمل شعارات‪ ،‬مص ّممة كلّها بأسلوب غريب‪،‬‬ ‫كل شهر‪.‬‬ ‫محل صاعد ّ‬ ‫وتُعرض أعمل مص ّمم ّ‬ ‫لطالا ذاع صيت فيينا حول العال‬ ‫لثقافتها ول تشتهر بدينة الوسيقى‬ ‫فحسب‪ ،‬بل بدينة الحلم أيضاً‪ .‬وبض ّم‬

‫روح البتكار هذه‪ ،‬ل تصون منطقة‬ ‫‪ MuseumQuartier‬إرث الدينة الثقاف‬ ‫فحسب‪ ،‬بل تظهر أيضاً التزام فيينا التي‬ ‫بالثقافة مهم كان نوعها‪.‬‬

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‫‪89‬‬

‫ترجمة باللّغة العرب ّية‬ ‫‪City Of Culture: 26‬‬

‫مدينة الثقافة‬

‫تحتفل منطقة ‪MuseumsQuartier‬‬ ‫ف فيينا بسنويّتها الخامس عشة‪ .‬تستكشف‬ ‫‪ Hannah Lewis‬إحدى أكث الساحات‬ ‫الثقافيّة ثرا ًء وإثار ًة ف العال‬

‫‪PHOTO: JULIA SPICKER‬‬

‫ف العام ‪ ،1713‬طلب امباطور‬ ‫النمسا ‪ Charles VI‬من الهندس الشهي‬ ‫‪ Johann Fischer von Erlach‬تشييد‬ ‫مج ّمع فاخر بالقرب من جدار ما يُعرف‬ ‫اليوم ف فيينا بـ ‪ .Old Town‬سنة ‪،2001‬‬ ‫وبعد ثلثة قرون عل بدء ‪Fischer von‬‬ ‫‪ Erlach‬بالعمل‪ ،‬تح ّول البناء إل مركز ثقاف‬ ‫جديد‪ .MuseumQuartier :‬يحتفل هذا‬ ‫الخي العروف بـ ‪ MQ‬بسنويّة افتتاحه‬ ‫الخامس عشة هذا العام وبات مقصدا ً‬ ‫ل ب ّد من زيارته لدى استكشاف العاصمة‬ ‫النمساويّة‪ .‬ث ّم أتت الشكة النمساويّة‬ ‫الرموقة ‪ Ortner & Ortner‬لتط ّور البناء‬ ‫وتحضه للستخدام العصي‪.‬‬ ‫الباروك الرائع‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫فحرص فريق العمل عل صون الصلة بي‬ ‫القديم والجديد وخلق مساحة يلتقي فيها‬ ‫الف ّن والتفيه‪ .‬بالتال‪ ،‬تدمج الساحة البتكرة‬ ‫بهارة مبانٍ تاريخيّة بأخرى جديدة وتشكّل‬ ‫اليوم إحدى أكب عشة تج ّمعات ثقاف ّية ف‬ ‫العال‪ .‬تض ّم متاحف وساحات عرض ومراكز‬ ‫ابتكار ومحلت ومنشآت بحث ومطاعم‬ ‫وتغطّي مساحة ‪ 90‬ألف متٍ مربعٍ وتجذب‬ ‫كل سنة‪ .‬ليست ‪MQ‬‬ ‫أربعة مليي زائر ّ‬ ‫مج ّرد مجموعة من التاحف‪ ،‬بل إنّها أحد أكث‬ ‫الماكن حيويّة ف الدينة وتوفّر التسلية من‬ ‫الصباح الباكر حتّى آخر ساعات اللّيل‪.‬‬ ‫الكان الثال لبدء النهار ف ‪ MQ‬هو‬ ‫متحف ‪ Leopold‬الذي يض ّم إحدى أبرز‬ ‫مجموعات الف ّن النمساوي‪ .‬معظمه مؤلّف‬ ‫من قطعٍ جمعها نصيا الف ّن ‪ Rudolf‬و‬ ‫و‪ ،Elisabeth Leopold‬تض ّم الجموعة‬ ‫ابتكارات ‪ Gustav Klimt‬و‪Egon‬‬ ‫ورسامي معاصين آخرين‪.‬‬ ‫‪ّ Schiele‬‬ ‫الساحة مك ّرسة بعظمها للف ّن النمساوي‬

‫وبخاصة ف ّن فيينا الحديث وتض ّم أكب تشكيلة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ف العال لعمل ‪ Schiele‬إل جانب عدد‬ ‫من القطع لف ّناني آخرين‪ .‬تصميم البنى‬ ‫مذهل بقدر العمل الفنيّة تقريباً‪ ،‬بساحاته‬ ‫الفتوحة الشاسعة وبهوه الداخل الضخم‪.‬‬ ‫وف الطابق الرابع‪ ،‬تشف النوافذ الواسعة عل‬ ‫منظ ٍر جميل لوسط الدينة وساحة ‪Maria‬‬ ‫‪ Theresien-Platz‬والقص اللك‪.‬‬ ‫وف الصالة التي كانت حلبة شتويّة‬ ‫لركوب الخيل ف السطبلت اللكيّة‪ ،‬تجد‬ ‫مؤسسة عرض‬ ‫‪ Kunsthalle Wien‬وهي ّ‬ ‫للف ّن الدول العاص والحديث‪ .‬إنّها من أه ّم‬ ‫منشآت الف ّن العاص ف فيينا وتركّز نشاطاتها‬ ‫عل التصوير والفيديو والفلم والعمرة‬ ‫الختباريّة وتش ّجع البتكارات التداخلة‬ ‫الجالت‪ .‬فل ّ‬ ‫شك أن يجد الز ّوار شيئاً جديدا ً‬ ‫كل زيارة‪ .‬كم تُحيى‬ ‫ومثيا ً للهتمم ف ّ‬ ‫الناسبات عل مدار السنة ف الصالة الجاورة‬ ‫‪.Halle E + G‬‬ ‫يُقام هذا الصيف الهرجان السنوي‬ ‫‪ Wiener Festwochen‬من ‪ 13‬أيّار‪/‬مايو‬ ‫إل ‪ 19‬حزيران‪/‬يونيو‪ ،‬حيث تكث الناسبات‬ ‫ف ‪ MQ‬بالضافة إل مهرجان الرقص العاص‬ ‫‪ ImPulsTanz‬من ‪ 14‬تّوز‪/‬يوليو إل ‪14‬‬ ‫آب‪/‬أغسطس‪ .‬لكن حتّى ولو ل يكن هناك من‬ ‫مهرجان خلل زيارتك‪ ،‬تجد ف ‪ MQ‬خيارات‬


90 | P RO D U C T S

SOUVENIR

NATURAL BEAUTY Susanne Kaufmann’s eponymous skincare range was developed at the spa at Hotel Post Bezau in the beautiful Bregenzerwald forest region in the west of Austria. Kaufmann has worked with a team of pharmacists and dermatologists to develop her range of products derived from natural ingredients, and today her brand ofers over 60 organic products, including Ölbad für die Sinne, Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 71

or Oil Bath for the Senses. This velvety oil contains ylang ylang, patchouli and lavender, and is suitable for all skin types. The product delivers on its promise of nourished skin and relaxation – and the simple bottle looks elegant in the bathroom. th Susanne Kaufmann Oil Bath For The Senses, 500ml, €66, Weigand, Maria-Theresien-Strasse 17, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 584191, susannekaufmann.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 69


Montblanc Heritage Spirit Moonphase and Hugh Jackman Crafted for New Heights


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Wien – Kohlmarkt 1 Tel. + 43 (0) 1 535 104 000

Amulette de Cartier


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