SHOP Belgium SS15

BELGIUM | БЕЛЬГИЯ | 比利时 | ベルギー

BELGIUM City Edition Spring/Summer 2015

Page 34 HEADS UP: Belgium’s cool crop of must-visit concept stores

Have a look at the biggest dep

artment store in Belgium. Galeria Inno, more than 600 brands under one roof : women’s, men’s and children’s clothing, home products, gifts and accessories, etc. • Galeria Inno Brussels - rue Neuve 111 - 1000 Brussels • Galeria Inno Louise - av. Louise 12 - 1050 Brussels • Galeria Inno Bascule - chée de Waterloo 699 - 1180 Brussels • Galeria Inno Woluwe - av. Paul Hymans 150 - 1200 Brussels • Galeria Inno Antwerpen - Meir 80-82 - 2000 Antwerpen • Galeria Inno Schoten - Bredabaan 967 - 2100 Schoten • Galeria Inno Mechelen - Bruul 49 - 2800 Mechelen • Galeria Inno Hasselt - Koning Albertstraat 48-50 - 3500 Hasselt • Galeria Inno Leuven - Diestsestraat 67 - 3000 Leuven • Galeria Inno Liège - pl. de la République Française 15 - 4000 Liège • Galeria Inno Namur - pl. d’Armes 17 - 5000 Namur • Galeria Inno Charleroi - bd. Tirou 109 - 6000 Charleroi • Galeria Inno Brugge - Steenstraat 11 - 8000 Brugge • Galeria Inno Oostende - Kapellestraat 18 - 8400 Oostende • Galeria Inno Gent - Veldstraat 86 - 9000 Gent • Galeria Inno Waasland - Kapelstraat 100 - 9100 Sint-Niklaas

www.inno.be

Footwear, Apparel & Accessories for Every Escape. Timberland.nl

Timberland and

EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Welcome to Belgium

Руководство Германия Gothenburg

Maybe you’re already familiar with Belgium, or perhaps it’s your frst visit. Either way, SHOP magazine is sure to ofer surprises. Discover Belgium’s cutting-edge concept stores on page 34. We also sample some of the country’s best restaurants – see page 48. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 16% when shopping in Belgium. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Belgium. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free Global Blue Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Nuremburg Oslo Paris 巴黎

Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Seoul Singapore Stuttgart Switzerland Tokyo Vienna

Emma Cheevers

Vilnius

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@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Stockholm

ILLUSTRATION: KAROLIS STRAUTNIEKAS – FOLIO ART

CONTRIBUTORS

Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims contributes to a wide variety of publications, including the Financial Times, Independent and Observer newspapers and Wallpaper and Esquire magazines. His latest book is Icons of Women’s Style, published in April 2015. globalblue.com

Karolis Strautniekas Lithuanian illustrator Karolis Strautniekas created this season’s cover for SHOP Belgium. His imaginative and clever style is ideally suited for our cover, which was inspired by our feature on concept stores on page 34, and shows a store as an idea or concept within the mind. Based in Vilnius, Karolis has previously created illustrations for Mini Cooper, Adobe, Siemens and The Independent, among others. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Verity Hogan After working for a Mexican magazine and reporting in Romania, history graduate Verity Hogan swapped writing about crinolines and corsets for more contemporary clothes when she moved to London to pursue journalism. She now works as SHOP’s features editor.

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Karolis Strautniekas – Folio Art Contributor Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Production assistant Katie Muxworthy Features editor Verity Hogan City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Fashion and news intern Rebecca Fearn Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/ deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Sarah Walker Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, George Trinick Artworking intern Samantha Junak

PU BL ISH I NG Publisher James Morris

Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Online production assistant Marina Nelson Online assistant Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang Chinese translators Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi

GLOBA L BLU E BE LGI UM Country manager Jorn Hoogesteijn Marketing manager Kathy van Haaren Customer relations Carla Maes, Cemile Kurum Account managers Jennifer de Vos, Sophie Herkenne, Kim Joostens Global Blue Belgium, Lambroekstraat 5C, B-1831 Diegem, Belgium

Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital marketing intern Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Digital intern Sammy Ha Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini

Chief Executive Officer David Baxby Chief Traveller Officer Craig Le Grice SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

KIPLING RETAIL STORES BELGIUM & NETHERLANDS Century Center, De Keyserlei 58, Antwerpen 2018 Geldmuntstraat 41, Brugge 8000 Grasmarkt 26, Brussels 1000 Voldersstraat 58, Gent 9000 Heiligeweg 39, Amsterdam 1012 XP

KIPLING OUTLETS BELGIUM & NETHERLANDS Maasmechelen Outlet, Zetellaan 100 - UNIT 42, Maasmechelen 3630 Messancy Outlet, 199, Route dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Arlon, Messancy 6780 Roermond Outlet, Stadsweide 2, Roermond 6041 TD

CONTENTS PHOTO: ERIC KLEINBERG

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P RO D U C T S 18 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Belgium this season 20 Our Favourites Designers Maša Lončarič and Jon Kleinhample reveal their top tips for shopping in Antwerp 22 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N EWS 28 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Belgium 30 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F E AT U R E S 34 Cover Story: Creative Thinking Belgium’s leading concept stores are emerging as retail stars, says Verity Hogan

42 Time To Shine With his fresh approach to watchmaking, Belgian designer Benoit Mintiens is achieving new heights of creativity for his Ressence brand, reports Josh Sims E X PE R I E NCE 48 Table Talk Belgian cuisine has been elevated to an art form at the country’s foremost restaurants, writes Isabella Redmond Styles CI T Y GU I DE 53 Maps and guides to Belgium’s top destinations ESSENTIA LS 68 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

T R A N S L AT I O N S 70 Русский Перевод 74 美文翻译 78 日本語翻訳 SOU V E N I R 82 The essential item to bring home

Above: Jane restaurant, Antwerp

RCS UJA SAS-SIRET 340 429 653 00751.

Le nouvel esprit couture 70/72 rue Neuve 1000 BRUXELLES

Avenue Louise 50B 1050 BRUXELLES

Shopping Woluwe Rue St. Lambert 202 1200 WOLUWE

Steenstraat 52 8000 BRUGGE

18 | P RO D U C T S

KNOTTED AND DOTTED Step into the sunshine with these bright yellow sandals by Jimmy Choo. The nappa leather shoes feature intricate knotted straps that form a cage on the feet. Individually cut and stitched, the straps are connected in the middle with a stylish gold zip. Black heels, dotted with yellow, provide Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 68

contrast to make the buttercup tones pop even further. The perfect accessory to add glamour to jeans for the day, the sandals will also look great with a silk dress for a night out. fm Jimmy Choo Kattie cage sandals, â&#x201A;Ź1,150, Jimmy Choo, 53 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 514 7594, jimmychoo.com for map go to page 57

PHOTO: RICHARD DAVID GREEN

CHECK OUT

20 | P RO D U C T S

MY FAVOURITES: Maša Lončarič and Jon Kleinhample Based in Antwerp, husband and wife Jon Kleinhample and Maša Lončarič are the team behind the design studio and workshop Lmbrjk. Mixing contemporary digital methods with traditional hand craftsmanship they create intriguing, functional furniture, home accessories and more. Highly knowledgeable about the creative scene in Antwerp, they share insider tips with Hannah Lewis 1. ‘We have a soft spot for our sanded Sadl stool. It would make an excellent gift or souvenir’

Lmbrjk Sadl stool, from €240, Klein Shop, Braziliestraat 23, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)484 033121, lmbrjk.com (open weekends only)

Stephen Kenn Travel Cocktail Kit, €263, stephenkenn.com

3. ‘Maša has been eyeing up one of the beautiful knitted vests from the new LN Knits collection’ LN Knits Andes Adorable Annie Zebra top, €320, Princess, Meir 51, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 231 2122, lnknits.com

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 68

PHOTOS: (PROFILE) BART KIGGEN, COFFEEKLATCH; (1) LMBRJK STUDIO

2. ‘When we travel we always take Stephen Kenn’s travel cocktail kit’

S H O P | 21

4. ‘Jon really wants to get his hands on the new Nike Flyknit Roches’ Nike Flyknit Roches trainers, €130, Nike Factory Store, Boomsesteenweg 35-37, 2627 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 457 4680, nike.com

globalblue.com

5. ‘We like what Acne came up with this season’ Acne, Lombardenvest 42, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 225 0522, acnestudios.com

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TOP OF THE CROPS Dark, moody accessories look great against a crisp white top and pastel skirt

1. Ray-Ban sunglasses, €189, Arnouts Optiek, Schoenmarkt 29, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 233 4978, ray-ban.com

4. Naf Naf top, €30, Naf Naf, City2, 123 rue Neuve, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 223 1102, nafnaf.com

2. Betty Barclay scarf, €35.99, Galeria Inno, City2, 123 rue Neuve, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 211 2111, bettybarclay.com

5. Marciano Guess skirt, €161, Guess, 22 avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 502 4082, guess.com

3. Replay handbag, €199, Replay, Kammenstraat 25/27, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 226 9322, replay.it

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 68

PHOTO: (1) FRANCO PIZZOCHERO

S H O P | 23

SUMMER FUN Pair a colourful shirt with classic shorts and enjoy a day in the sun with your iPad 1

PHOTO: (1) FRANCO PIZZOCHERO

1. Persol sunglasses, €165, Meeussen Galerie Optiek, Nieuwe Gaanderij 38-39, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 4837, persol.com

4. Antwrp shirt, €80, Villa Maria, Gistelsesteenweg 22, 8200 Bruges, +32 (0)50 310744, antwrp.be

2. Rimowa iPad Air case, €180, Rimowa, Leopoldstraat 6, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 234 3220, rimowa.com

5. Bench shorts, €54.95, AS Adventure, 17A-20 avenue de la Toison d’Or, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 511 7524, bench.co.uk

3. O’Neill fip fops, €25.99, O’Neill, Shopping Stadsfeestzaal, Meir 78, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 7861, oneill.com

globalblue.com

24 | P RO D U C T S

DRESS TO IMPRESS Accessories take the limelight, with mannish brogues and luxurious glasses. Keep the rest of the look simple 1

1. Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses, €660, Brillenmarkt, Schuttershofstraat 20, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 233 9857, dolcegabbana.com

3. Floris van Bommel shoes, €179.90, Van Bommel Store, Huidevettersstraat 6, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 231 4220, forisvanbommel.com

2. Lee Cooper Jeans, €89.95, Concept, Legeweg 164, 8200 Bruges, +32 (0)493 255306, leecooper.com

4. Adidas Originals jacket, €100, Adidas, Kammenstraat 45, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 3092, adidas.com

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 68

Discover the secrets of diamond cutting and polishing in the largest diamond showroom in Antwerp.

FREE GUIDED TOURS AND ADMISSION Opening hours 9.30 am - 5.00 pm daily, including Saturdays Appelmansstraat 33A | 2018 Antwerpen | t +32 (0)3 369 0780 info@diamondland.be | www.diamondland.be

Diamonds & Jewels

28 | N E W S

PHOTO: KARL LAGERFELD

SHOP WINDOW

KARL CONCEPT If you are yet to experience one of Karl Lagerfeld’s own-label stores, head to the Antwerp Karl Lagerfeld boutique. In partnership with Lagerfeld himself, the architectural studio Plajer & Franz has created a minimalist store focusing on a monochrome palette among other trademarks of the brand’s design. An exciting and extensive digital experience is ofered, with iPads dotted around to allow visitors a Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 68

window into the digital world of Karl Lagerfeld, and there’s even a huge mirror that transforms into a screen when motion activated, treating customers to flms and videos featuring Karl Lagerfeld. He might well be the busiest man in fashion, but this hasn’t stopped Karl Lagerfeld from devising one of the most original retail concepts in some time. hl Karl Lagerfeld, Schuttershofstraat 53, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 303 1856, karl.com * for map go to page 61

GAUTAM D IA M ON D S & J EW EL S 12, G r A N D P L A c E , 1 0 0 0 B rU S S E L S | 4 5 , r U E D E L ’E T U v E , 1000 B rU S S E L S B rU S S E L S A I r P O rT , T E r M I N A L S A A N D B

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STRIKING SILHOUETTES

PHOTO: RUBEN TOMAS

Belgian-born Marjorie Vermeulen studied fashion at the country’s leading school of art and design, La Cambre, before spending time honing her craft under designer Paulo Melim Andersson at Chloé in Paris. On her return to Belgium, she launched her eponymous, ready-to-wear women’s label, which features modern, minimal silhouettes created through the juxtaposition of fuid shapes and architectural lines. Her summer collection combines simple outlines and intricate prints. Look out for the ontrend combination of powder pink and stark black. hl

Smets, 650-652 chaussée de Louvain, 1030 Brussels, +32 (0)2 325 1230, marjorievermeulen.com

PHOTO: KOEN DE WAAL

SLEEK AND CHIC

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Icon has been a vital presence on the Brussels fashion scene for more than 12 years. Situated in the Dansaert area, Icon stocks everything from footwear and accessories to jewellery and womenswear. Brands such as Acne Studios and Mother of Pearl are represented, alongside local designers. Inside the store, the white walls and minimalist shelving create an almost reverent browsing experience. th Icon, 5 place du Nouveau Marché aux Grains, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 502 7151, icon-shop.be * for map go to page 56

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RICH RESOURCES Jewellery brand Wouters & Hendrix has opened a fagship store in Antwerp’s fashion district to house its silver and gold collections under the same roof for the frst time. Situated on Steenhouwersvest, the new store has an interior perfectly in line with the brand’s aesthetic, combining art, eccentricity, heritage and a touch of futurism. Precious jewellery is showcased in museum-like cases, together with vintage items that help to tell a story. Elegance and attention to detail are evident throughout. The Belgian brand was founded by Katrin Wouters and Karen Hendrix and celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. fm

Wouters & Hendrix, Steenhouwersvest 52, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 231 6242, wouters-hendrix.com * for map go to page 60

NATURAL ORIGINS Jewellery label Espèces is the result of the collaboration of Brussels-based artist Sébastien Lacomblez and designer Marie Artamonof, who together have conjured a strikingly unique look. The theme of animal bones is the basis of the duo’s creations, and their pieces are modelled on or moulded from genuine bones. The items are said to explore the ultimate nature of being. mkh Stijl, 74 rue Antoine Dansaert, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 0313, especes-especes.com * for map go to page 56 globalblue.com

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STYLE REVOLUTION

Perfect for a city break, the latest collection from Gant Rugger has a pervading leisure-luxe style, ofering menswear and womenswear that is perfect for a laid-back vacation. Carefully mixing casual and tailored elements, the menswear collection focuses on the colours of Americana: red, white and navy. The womenswear collection features shades of blue, realised in mixed fabrics and textures to create an easily layered wardrobe. Find both menswear and womenswear at Gant’s Brussels fagship, where Gant Rugger Woman is available for the frst time. mkh Gant, 67 avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 372 9478, gant.com * for map go to page 58

Fashionable feminism was the message on the Chanel catwalk this season. And thanks to Karl Lagerfeld’s creativity this meant a whole lot more than slogan Tshirts. On the Chanel catwalk fashionable feminism translated into wide-legged tweed trouser suits, paint-splattered boots, even a few chainmail-like evening dresses. Accessories became the new political placards with messages such as ‘Feministe mais feminin’ printed on clutch bags. These are destined to be collectors’ items, so make sure you get yours. th Chanel, Schuttershofstraat 12, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 227 1458, chanel.com * for map go to page 61

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

CASUAL LUXURY

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 68

gant.com

CREATIVE THINKING With carefully edited collections, exclusive designer brands and cutting-edge interiors, Belgium’s leading concept stores are emerging as stars in the country’s retail landscape, as Verity Hogan reports

36 | F E AT U R E S

ith its reputation for pushing the boundaries with fashion-forward collections, Belgium is one of Europe’s most exciting design destinations. The country’s fashion industry is thriving: more than 20,000 people work in the sector, which is worth more than €7bn a year. It is an industry that champions creativity and innovation, and is supported by well-established, high-quality manufacturers. Belgium’s willingness to embrace the new and break rules where necessary has inspired a crop of concept stores to open across the country, each ofering something unique and standing out from the crowd. 70 / 78

The cool, concrete exterior of L’héroïne in Bruges makes an immediate contrast to the town’s picturesque medieval architecture. Inside the shop, rails are flled with pieces that exude character: printed dresses, asymmetric jackets and striking knitwear. The range is effortlessly chic and you’d struggle to fnd an obvious logo on any item. The shop opened in 1987, which was the same year as the initial, informal gathering of the Antwerp Six ‒ the famous group of designers who put Belgium on the fashion map and included such luminaries as Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten. ‘We didn’t think commercially; we wanted to ofer creativity and Previous page: Hunting and Collecting, Brussels

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

S H O P | 37

innovation,’ says owner Martine Goethals. ‘Today we have the same concept: you won’t see clothes from big labels here and we’re still a platform for young designers.’ As well as stocking pieces by members of the Antwerp Six from the outset, L’héroïne has been among the frst to feature items by some of Belgium’s top design talents. ‘In the 1990s we were one of the frst to stock A F Vandevorst and then, in 2005, we introduced the young Christian Wijnants,’ Goethals continues. ‘We also stocked many other young designers who didn’t succeed ‒ but that’s fashion.’ Her honesty is one of the reasons that her personal shopping service

The range is effortlessly chic and you’d struggle to find an obvious logo on any item is one of Belgium’s best: visitors to her store are guaranteed to receive solid fashion advice along with their purchases. Jef Coopmans launched his store Jef Antwerp with an aim to ‘inspire our customers by looking for those little things that make life nicer.’ His store ofers a selection of luxuries, from home accessories and tableware to fragrances and works of art, as well as a gourmet section called Foodies Corner. International and local brands feature; expect everything from Balmain hair products and Mühle shaving accessories to brass home decorations from Skultuna. It’s an eclectic mix with a personal touch. ‘I always look for

Above (from lef): L’héroïne concept store, Bruges; A F Vandevorst spring/summer 2015; Jef Coopmans, owner of Jef Antwerp

38 | F E AT U R E S

items that I really like or that I would have in my house,’ Coopmans says. His personal touch extends to the service in the store, and Coopmans thinks this is the secret of his success. ‘Since independent shops sometimes have a more diffcult time, we tend to make extra efort with our customers,’ he adds. Scented candles from the Lucia home collection, tableware by Pascale Naessens for Serax and skincare products from L A Bruket are among the store’s most popular items, and Coopmans’ interior design ensures they are the centre of attention. ‘My shop is quite simple in its design: white walls and white blocks,’ he says. That way, Above (from top): Jef Antwerp store, Antwerp; Pascale Naessens for Serax Pure tableware available at the store

SAVE UP TO 16% WHEN YOU SHOP TAX FREE.

Join Global Blue for free, explore your city, ďŹ nd the best stores, and save up to 16% on everything you buy. globalblue.com/join

40 | F E AT U R E S

he explains, the articles and artworks really stand out. Hunting and Collecting in Brussels also uses its interior design to enhance and promote its product range. The space is versatile, and every six months a new theme is devised. ‘Nothing is fxed or screwed down, everything is mobile and the interior can evolve to display the products in various ways,’ explain owners Aude Gribomont and Niels Radtke. ‘The modularity of the store refects the constant change of fashion and lifestyle. We see it more as an editorial space, like a magazine.’ The owners’ edit includes some of the world’s most intriguing fashion, design, culture and lifestyle items. Featured brands range from Acne and 3.1 Phillip Lim to Givenchy and Kenzo, and the store is the exclusive outlet for many labels in Belgium. These range from Belgian designer A Knackfuss and streetwear brand Stampd from

Los Angeles, to Uribe jewellery from London and Harmony, a unisex fashion label from Paris. The owners’ buying process demands a delicate balance of experience, knowledge of current trends and that all-important gut feeling. ‘It’s about making the right choice, predicting what the market is ready for, and betting on the horse that

This page (from lef): Aude Gribomont and Niels Radtke, owners of Hunting and Collecting; Hunting and Collecting store, Brussels

S H O P | 41

The buying process demands a balance of experience and gut feeling

wants to win the race,’ they say. They add that they look for fair in the way a style is handled by the brand or the designers. ‘We’re looking for the one that makes the right product: the original ideas, the best executed and the most desirable,’ they say. Original, well-executed and desirable: three descriptions that perfectly encapsulate Belgium’s leading concept stores, all qualities that are likely to ensure lasting success lheroine.be, jefantwerp.be, huntingandcollecting.com This page (from lef): A Knackfuss SLAM collection, spring/summer 2015; Uribe Marylou necklaces

TIME

With his fresh approach to watchmaking, Belgian designer Benoit Mintiens is achieving new heights of creativity for his Ressence brand.

TO He is also being compared with some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most innovative talents, says Josh Sims

SHINE

44 | F E AT U R E S

72 / 80

the last few years he has designed watches, too, under his own brand, Ressence. ‘Creating a brand was not the idea,’ he notes. ‘As a nonSwiss, non-watchmaker it’s quite a mountain to climb.’ His Swiss-made Type 1 and Type 3 watches have introduced pioneering ideas such as a time display via a series of concentric discs, moving around each other like moons orbiting a planet. The designs have also re-calibrated watch aesthetics. The watches are curvy, pebble-like pieces with single-layer dials and wide, close-set crystals – the horological equivalent of large plasma screens. And, refreshingly, they refect a rather unhorological way of thinking.

PHOTO: GENIUSWAVE FILMS

enoit Mintiens pulls no punches. He admits that he had never, ever thought about designing a watch until he visited a watch trade show one year. ‘I was amazed to see so many watches with such low levels of creativity,’ he says. Most watches, he continues, aren’t very interesting as objects, and that’s because of the maker’s agenda. Watch manufacturers are not selling watches, they’re selling brands, he explains. ‘Most people buy for the brand, too.’ Being outside of the mainstream watch industry gives Mintiens licence to say such things. He is, after all, Belgian, not Swiss. And he is not a watch designer but an industrial designer. One of some pedigree, too: he was involved in the design of Eurostar and of the new-generation TGV high-speed trains for France’s SNCF; he designed the frst class interiors for Air France and has devised pushchairs for Maxi-Cosi and vacuum cleaners for LG. For

Previous page: Ressence Type 1 collection

PHOTO: GENIUSWAVE FILMS

46 | F E AT U R E S

‘Most watchmakers start with the movement and build around it, while industrial designers start from the user experience,’ he says. ‘In fact, the very way we’re taught to read the time with a series of hands, isn’t – from a designer’s point of view – the best way. Yet, such a graphic device is better than a digital one because it can be read much faster. However it has to be explained and it’s not intuitive: only when it’s learned does it become the best way.’ Look at a Ressence watch and there isn’t even the usual crown. The function is still required but, Mintiens argues, to have the mechanism for that function protruding from the device on a 21st-century watch makes about as much sense as an engine winder would on a modern car. ‘For me, the crown was the last physical link to the idea that the watch is something mechanical,’ he says. ‘And I want the watch

The watches are curvy, pebble-like pieces with single-layer dials

to be dematerialised, to be the purest expression of time. You have to have that fnal function. If you don’t have functionality you’re left with art. But it’s like vacuum cleaners. There was a time when we wanted them to clean but we didn’t care about them very much more than that. Now we have guys like James Dyson, who came up with a new philosophy for the vacuum cleaner.’ Some will regard Mintiens as unromantic, holding views counter to the high-end watch world’s emphasis on heritage, tradi-

Previous page (clockwise from top lef): Ressence founder, Benoit Mintiens; the brand’s Type 1 B watch; intricate atention to detail is key when making the watches

S H O P | 47

tion, craft and classicism. Even his reasoning behind retaining a mechanical movement is intellectual. ‘The fact is that people have empathy for gears but they don’t have empathy for circuits. As humans we feel for the mechanical over the digital,’ he argues. ‘It’s why digital devices that don’t work any more go in the garbage. But we don’t do that with anything mechanical; we immediately imagine that there’s some little cog that could be made better, like a little animal.’ Mintiens has invested in the expensive patenting of his ideas. And

he says that with his outsider, nonwatchmaker perspective, he has more ideas for innovations in watch design that will allow him to launch a model a year up until 2022. Indeed, perhaps the only obstacle to his watchmaking is that, as the wider watch world might see it, he has the misfortune to be based in Antwerp and not Geneva. He says that in the watch industry being Belgian is certainly more of a disadvantage than an advantage. ‘Mature markets might not care where Ressence is from,’ he adds, ‘but it matters to, say, customers in the Middle East. In fact, I can’t really even say my product is a Belgian watch in Switzerland – I have to emphasise that it’s made in Switzerland, even if Ressence is a Belgian brand. It’s kind of like Apple – designed in California but made in China.’ It is a telling analogy: the Steve Jobs of watches ressence.eu

Above (clockwise from top lef): faces and mechanisms of the watches; the Type 3 Super-LumiNova glows in the dark; the back of the Type 3 watch

48 | E X P E R I E N C E

TABLE TALK

Ofering rather more than moules frites, Belgian cuisine has been elevated to an impressive art form at the country’s foremost restaurants. Isabella Redmond Styles takes a gourmet tasting tour

Often overshadowed by the reputation of French food just over the border, Belgian cuisine is rarely given the applause it deserves. Wafes, fries, chocolate and beer aside, the country’s gastronomy is as varied as it is delicious. Look out for regional specialities such as waterzooi, a well-favoured stew of fsh or chicken; boudin blanc, globalblue.com

white sausage made with milk; carbonnade famande, a rich beef stew and chicon au gratin, a dish of endive wrapped in ham and fnished with a layer of béchamel sauce and cheese. The sweet toothed will be tempted by the nation’s favourite biscuit, speculoos, favoured with spices and found in everything from ice cream to éclairs.

PHOTO: CHRIS LEE/LEECHRIS.EU

S H O P | 49

PA R K R E S TAU R A N T

BOW E RY

Located in a 19th-century mansion overlooking Koningin Astrid Park, the aptly named Park is a seriously romantic restaurant. Yet it’s the cuisine that makes it a mustvisit. Specialising in seafood, the menu ofers starters such as traditional gratin with Brittany scallops or shrimp cocktail, and main dishes like baked baby Dover sole with potato soufé. Enticing choices for red meat eaters might include fllet of Belgian beef served with Pomerol wine sauce, seasonal vegetables and dauphinoise potatoes. Park Restaurant, Minderbroedersstraat 1, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)497 801872, parkrestaurant.be

Part of the chic Smets concept store, Bowery has a sleek interior designed by Brussels architects Zoom Architecture and is as trendy as its food is tasty. Star chef Maxim Maziers heads the kitchen and offers an innovative menu. Take a seat on one of the neon chairs and expect a fne dining experience that might include foie gras with hibiscus jelly and dandelion, truffed eggs and leg of suckling lamb. There’s an expertly chosen wine list and a very inviting, adjoining wine bar. Bowery, 650 chaussée de Louvain, 1030 Brussels, +32 (0)2 325 1290, bowery.be

PHOTO: ERIC KLEINBERG

PHOTO: FREDERIK VERCRUYSSE

50 | E X P E R I E N C E

THE JANE

GR A A NM A R KT 13

Housed in a former chapel, The Jane has a spectacular setting that could almost overshadow its food. Happily, though, the Piet Boon designed interior forms the perfect backdrop for striking cuisine created by chefs Nick Bril and Sergio Herman, who won three Michelin stars for his last restaurant Oud Sluis. Seating 60, the formal dining room is on the ground foor beneath huge windows, while the former organ gallery contains a bar and relaxed eating area. In pride of place where the altar once stood is the restaurant’s glass-encased kitchen. Diners choose between a three-, fve- or seven-course menu depending how hungry or adventurous they are feeling. The Jane, Paradeplein 1, 2018 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 808 4465, thejaneantwerp.com

Set in a historic and immaculately preserved townhouse, Graanmarkt 13 combines a fashion-forward clothing boutique, a chic apartment available to rent and a sensational restaurant. Headed by feted Belgian chef Seppe Nobels, the restaurant serves French, Italian and Japanese specialities made with only top-quality ingredients. For lunch, there’s a simple formula of fsh or meat, such as cod or veal ribeye steak, served with vegetable side dishes. Dinner is a more formal, three-course meal for which the menu changes according to what’s local and fresh ‒ previous dishes have included an intriguing combination of chocolate, beetroot, pineapple and Szechuan pepper. Graanmarkt 13, Graanmarkt 13, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 337 7991, graanmarkt13.be

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G U I D E | 53

GUIDE

PHOTO: ©JAN DARTHET/TOERISME BRUGGE

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Belgium with a look at the city’s mustvisit destinations, including the best places for sweet treats. Start with our recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/belgium.

A GLIMPSE OF BRUGES Above: the quay alongside the Dijver canal, Bruges

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BELGIAN CUBERDON Belgian chocolate is, of course, world famous, but the cuberdon is another of the country’s sweet treats, popular for more than 100 years. At Belgian Cuberdon these cone-shaped candies are made according to a traditional recipe without artifcial colours or preservatives and are presented in a staggering variety of colours. They come in 35

favours, ranging from pineapple and rose to speculoos, spiced biscuits much loved in Belgium. For true enthusiasts, there’s also a cuberdon syrup to be enjoyed with pastries or ice cream, as well as a cuberdon nectar for mixing in cocktails. Belgian Cuberdon, Westland Shopping, 499 boulevard Sylvain Dupuis, 1070 Brussels, +32 (0)2 808 4957, belgiancuberdon.com

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FORK From covetable bags to great soups and salads, you can simultaneously enjoy a delicious meal and pick up stylish accessories here. Fork’s restaurant serves seasonal, homemade cuisine alongside a fne European wine list and a great selection of Belgian beers. The adjoining store is an authorised Freitag dealer and stocks an array of the brand’s colourful accessories such as laptop bags, shoppers and smartphone and tablet covers.

Fork, 13 rue du Rempart des Moines, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 201 7770, fork-bxl.be

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Kokuban brings an authentic taste of Japanese ramen soup to Brussels. The team is meticulous about producing traditional dishes and serves them in a very Japanese setting, with wooden tables and soft lighting.

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Alongside ramen, diners can enjoy other specialities such as gyoza dumplings and udon salad. Kokuban, 53 rue Vilain XIV, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 611 0622, kokuban.be

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Boulevard de Waterloo & Avenue de la Toison d’Or

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SAXON’S ● PINKO ● NATAN ● TENSEN ● FRED PERRY AUTHENTIC ●

M EI R

H U I D E V E T T E R S S T R A AT

BASE ● MEN’S FASHION ● PETIT BATEAU ● PAUL & SHARK ● CAROLINE BISS ● BROOKLYN ●

● FORNARINA

Komedieplaats & Korte Gasthuisstraat

● 7 CAMICE ● HUGO BOSS

VAN BOMMEL ● TIMBERLAND ● COMPANY ● UNO DE 50 ● GANT ● MASSIMO DUTTI ●

WOLFORD ● PATRIZIA PEPE ●

● REPLAY SAM FRIDAY ● ALL SAINTS INTIMATES ● ● FITTZ LEE ● ● LEVI’S FISH & CHIPS ● HEAVER ● PLAYLIFE PLAYGROUND ● ● ADIDAS PEPE JEANS ● ● ANN ZELIEN P.82 SACHA ● ● VANS MONIQUE STAM ● ● RINGS & THINGZ ESSENTIEL OUTLET ● VIER ● UB X-TREME ●

A AT S

DIEP L

KO M E

IE S

KORT E GA ST H UIS STRA

T- A N

● LIU JO

A AT

S IN

● ROSA CLARA ● ERIC BOMPARD

● SCAPA

Place Of Interest

T MORGAN ●

● C&A ● ZARA RIVER ● ISLAND ● WE ● ESPRIT

ME LVI N ●

SED ON A ●

BA SLE R ●

● 14 HOPLAND ● SANDRO ● MCGREGOR ● CREA CONCEPT ● CLAUDIE PIERLOT ● RIVER WOODS ● MER DU NORD

LES HOMMES ● BASE ● CYDONIA ● SCAPA ● SPORT DO NU M ● GALERIA CO ● WE ● STO CK X & RCO ● INNO MA FOSSIL ● ● PEARLE VERO MODA / JACK & JONES ● ● SCAPA WORLD CELIO ● ● PIMKIE ● PAL ZIL ERI ICI PARIS XL ● FOOT LOCKER ● Stadsfeestzaal MASSIMO DUTTI ● ● L'OCCITANE ● EMPORIO ARMANI ● BERSHKA ● RA BEA NC O ● H&M ● SED ON A BISKY URBAN NIC I AM ● ● OUTFITTERS VA NK ETS ●

KO LV E N I E R S S T R A AT LEVI'S ● THE STING ● WEST-END ● MANGO ● PULL & BEAR ● NEW YORKER ● MEXX ● COOL CAT ● SPORTSTAFF ● DESIGUAL ● STREET ONE ● PRINCESS ● TRIUMPH ● SWAROVSKI ● KEN ● ZAZA ●

PUMA ● HEMA ●

AVANCE ● PRANGE ●

Peek & Cloppenberg

JACK & JONES / VERO MODA ●

LAGERF ELD ● P.28 KARLJOHN BRAYE ● ● LES ATELIER S DE LAMAIL LE LADURÉ E ● TOMMY HILFIGE R ● ● COMPTO IR DES COTONN IERS ● VILEBRE QUIN CAROLL ● BURBER RY ● THE CHOCOL ATE MAJE ● ● LINE ATOS LOMBAR DINI ● ANNE FONTAN E ● PRINCES SE TAM TAM ● VERSO OUTLET ● BCBGMA XAZRIA ● NOUKIE ’S ● JIMMY CHOO ● MONCLE R ● ZADIG & VOLTAIR E ● GÉRARD DAREL ● COCODR ILLO ● DVS ● AGENT PROVOC ATEUR ● LIU JO ●

H U I D E V E T T E R S S T R A AT

● TWIN SET ● DONCEE L JUWELE N ● ESSENT IEL ● MON PLUS BEAU SOUVEN IR ● ILSE DE KEULEN AER ● CÉCIL CHAUSS URES ● MEPHIS TO ● GRAA NMAR KT 13 ● POM D' API ● CLEO ● SLAETS ● PAIN DE SUCRE ● AVEDA ● ESSENT IEL ● TERRE BLEU D S ● MARITH É FRANÇO IS GIRBAU E P L A AT ● BRILLEN MARKT / LENSON LINE KO M E DI ● AMERIC AN VINTAGE 7 FOR ALL ● MANKIN D P.32 ● CHANEL ● DELVAU X ● COCODR ILLO MEN ● REMINIS CENCE ● TENSEN

COS CROCS DEAD SEA COSMETICS

HOPL AND

T SCH UT TER SHOFST R A A

H U IDE V E T T E R S S

Featured In This Issue

Shopping Centre/Mall

Department Store

RUBENS HUIS

ICI PARIS XL JUST A SHOE LLOYD SHOES MEN AT WORK SACHA TOMMY HILFIGER

SELECTED SHOPS IN STADSFEESTZAAL:

SE N ●

RN EL IS

M EI R

● S. OLIVER ● SCORE ● H&M ● REPLAY ● DIESEL ● IÜ ● CLARKS ● JBC / TORFS ● SPRINGF IELD

M EI R

RA AT

ER G ST

A R EN B

HI LD E CO

AS ADVENTURE ●

HU I

STEVE MADDEN ● NEW LOOK ● ESPRIT ● HUNKEMÖLLER ● UNITED BRANDS ●

Broer Bretel, Naussaustraat 7, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)4 8415 8296, broerbretel.be Located in the on-trend area of Het Eilandje, the island on Antwerp’s Schelde river, Broer Bretel is a must-visit destination for cofee lovers. Its special creations include Dog Espresso, a concoction of espresso, 82% dark chocolate and cinnamon, and Jules, a lavish combination of cappuccino, whipped cream, caramel and Destrooper wafe crunch. There’s also a tempting range of light bites and a choice of teas and infusions, hot or iced.

S H O P | 61

BROER BRETEL

Meir & Hopland

P ELIK

A A NST

R A AT

EDEN DIAMONDS ● DIAMOND CENTER ● WHITE DIAMONDS ● RIKI DIAMONDS ● EDEN ● RON ● DIAMOND CREATIONS ● ORDINI ● BELLA ● JULIA DIAMONDS ● MALDINI DIAMONDS ● MODANI DIAMOND CREATIONS ● DIAMAND PALACE ●

ANTWERP OR ●

LA NG E HE

RE NTAL

SE ST RA

● DI AM

OND W

AT IO N IN TE RN G EL A O N D S ● DI AM

● LAURA ASHLEY

Pelikaanstraat

R L EI

O RL D

I●

T TI

L EI

DE KE

PH H A R OIL IP P E LD S ●

● L' O DY S S EE ● NA TUSH M A IS ● PA O N D U RFUM

NKR

MOO ● M AX O U T S IZ NSHO E P

FR A

I JK L

DEL R ● H O E YC H O C O L AT U P LA O R S IN S E E D IA MN E T PA R FU I● VA N OND STR A WO M ● LENS S LA ER LD ● TR A TS ● V E R AT M E D IA S ATO MARK ● K IP LI T ● N G● M&G F& M A LD D IA M R O S S ● IN ● D IA I ITA I D MOND P R E SO N D S ● IA M O S N D S & G O LD TI G E ● JE W E A R T ● LL E ● L& DE GO N ATA R Y● D D IA M IL A N LD E N R IN LI ● O D NDS B E S T IA M O N G ● ● UN D D IA M S IV E R OND S ● E LY S H AY D IA M SAL O N JE O N D SS ● D IA M R OYA W E LL ● OND E RY ● S ● & D LT Y JE W E IA M O N D S L L E RY

VERD

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SS T R A A T PPELMAN

●

DE KE

A R IS XL ● D IN O ● ● GE RRE

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SN3 ●

IC I P

LUX STREET FASHION ●

ST R A

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T AA FR AN

ROOS

T AA

Non-Global Blue Retailer

K LIN

Global Blue Retailer RIJ

HOPL AND

HUN H& THE KEMÖLL M ● E BOD Y SH R ● ● KA OP R ER AM ● ● G E E N M IL L EN O ENBO ● ● PL X RRE A M&S ● ● A P N E T PA R FUM ● V E R IT P E L' S ● ON AS M LY A R M CG R EG O ● ● VA R● A N I JE N ANS ● B E DA L E N ● NETT ON ● AM E R IC A TO D AY ● TO MMY H IL F ● DA IG E R N Y-M D E N IM AY VA N D

A AT

LAS IA M O D IA M N OND AT E L D S O N V A S● ES IE R D ● NNEES G E B L U T IG IN G ● ENS ● GI ● DA A L L E RY CQ U S TVRA N ● CA NO OY ● YEK E A ASTT R M JO P A H JE ● HE SH T TI W E L IR E : D U C E IL L E R IE M A ● NT L E RY R 4 ● A R I DA T S D I A CAEY RE ● ● VA I S T S & M O ENS L O U IS JU W A EL ● D N O R E IC RR ND HMA EN ● ● T AV G O J E OW S NN ● C RE EL R WE SJ JO Ë L B E L D IO R ● LL ● G AR AS LI ● G L EC EW ER ● G O L AT U R E VE S ● ZE ALU DEN EL VA N R B R U G G E R ● D DER IA LE ● CO B R CC P VEKE EN ● M A V N RY A ● I ON N● ● FA E R B D E S FA D I A L A C D ● DA S H R U D S H M O E S GOLD P ● I I N I O O A B . M IL M ● GE ARE IEL ON GGE M N NDS L E T & B E L D IAK A B L O I ● O F ● J R ● ADO ● H LA E LS LE EW N ND R I M C O JE W M O R ● S ● I A W TT H JE E E L IS IL L E N IU E L S ● ● J N J NA LE I J EN W LL ABE M● ● R UW EW O S EW R EL ER ● V E E E R S DI EL I DO LER Y F R O M N ATA T O R ● ● TR ER ICH LEN LLE LY ● AM LE N Y ANN M ● A N ● O N RY ● M AO E A S N T A N T O RY & ● M A I DS D F & PA ● D A Y R G UR IA A ZE ● GH AM NO A O OL E D M OR IA IA JU R D IA ON M DI JE TI W DS ON EL NI W IE DS EL R LE RY

FR A

MISSONI ● CORNER BY BLOK ●

L L IN

STR TR

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L' OADN SS T R A M YS A ADP P E L N IC O S É E ● T

L ANGE N

P ELIK

62 | G U I D E

Leysstraat & De Keyserlei

AT S

L EI

Vestingstraat

64 | G U I D E

BRUGES

RA AT

AK M N

NST R A

T AA

R ST RA

MOE

Kepinski Hotel Duke's Palace

K S TR. S TO C T P H IL IP AA TR GALERIES SAINT HUBERT GS O Burg H O Markt BELFRY AND BASILICA OF THE PAGE HALLES HOLY BLOOD

T AA

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The Pand Hotel Hotel De Tuileriën

Simon Stevinplein

PAGE

NS EE

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THE CANALS

SintAA S T R Salvatorskerkhhof

R IA A N

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KOR T E V U L D E R

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WELCOME CHURCH OF OUR LADY MA

T G O E ZEP U TSTR A A

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OLD ST. JOHN'S HOSPITAL O O S T MEE R S

G KO N IN

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T AA

Hotel

T R A AT

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Tourist Information

MINNEWATER

V I S S PA N S

E AT

T I-IA AN

W ESTMEER S

A LB ER

BEGUINAGE

Place Of Interest

W IEU

S H O P | 65

PIERRE MARCOLINI

the Saveurs du Monde tasting collection. Pierre Marcolini, Markt 11, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 349810, marcolini.be

PHOTO: SU-LIN CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

There are Belgian chocolates and then there are Pierre Marcolini chocolates. As one of the country’s most revered chocolatiers, Marcolini is known for his imaginative approach and ultra-chic packaging. His company is one of the few to oversee manufacture from bean to bar, and although an international brand with 24 boutiques it remains deeply committed to its cocoa suppliers. Look out for

Old Town ● NICKY M

FILOU & FRIENDS ●

● GALANTE

BR UG GE ●

●

SE ●

P H IL IP

S TO C

K STR

A AT

●

JE ●

B R EID

EL ST

T R AA

● ● ● R VE ● ● K E M A OSA NISE IS DE LV R S T O N L I N E AU B R P UG ICK X ER G Y ● NATURA E

● NICO TAEYMANS

● ROCOCO ● CHOCOLATIER VAN OOST ● THE BOTTLE SHOP Pergola ● KLEDING DE KAT PICKERY ● T ● BUBBLES AT HOME CADEAUX MARGAUX ● ● POINT DE ROSE HET BRUGSCH THEEHUIS ● ● CHOCOHOLIC CHOCOLATE HAPPINESS ●

Burg

AA T

● ILSE DE CORTE

Kaﬀee

Burg

H U IS

AU X D E LV

K ANT

Markt

● URSUS BRUGGHIAE

Global Blue Retailer

WE ELTJE

DU CH ES

PIERRE MARCOLINI ● DUE COLLECTION ● AT PEARLE ● RA T FNAC ● TS

A AT

● COTÉNOIR

● CKS

N G ST R

L'ANGOLO ● HERENMODE

KA NTJU

VL AMI

THEO ● BITTE KAI RAND ● MC GREGOR ● JOAQUIM JOFRE ●

SF EE R 'N

NICKY M ACCESSOIRES ●

FLANDERS LACE ● MILLE FLEURS ●

● DE 5 ZINTUIGEN

AU POINT DE BRUGES ● KANTENPARADIJS ● CHOCOHOLIC ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer

JOSIANE ANSAELENS ●

Café

66 | G U I D E

MASSIMO DUTTI Massimo Dutti originally began as a menswear-only brand but with the success of its sophisticated and timeless style it extended to womenswear and accessories. It can be found in 69 countries around the world. Visit the Bruges store

to check out the spring/summer 2015 edit, which brings a touch of 1970s bohemian style to the brand’s signature polished look. Expect chic tailored suede pieces, fringing and macramé knits. Massimo Dutti, Zuidzandstraat 41, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 344038, massimodutti.com

Steenstraat & Noordzandstraat

A AT

K ER

KH OF

A AT

NOO

R DZ A

NDST

R A AT

ST E

ENS

TR A

AA T

● RU CINQUE ● Markt E NO DOMIQUE MEIR● ●M RD IS S MOG DOMIQUE MEIR● V IVA ● ●N GY BRU R 43 LUC DUCHENE ● G ● MEL 77 L G E E E TA M O N ID ● DE VI REX ● L IN G A S ● MO N E R IE L ● ● SC FA ●G A PA A A S ● V AST A T IM P HI HANS ANDERS ● TH RA E SQ NCE ● ● K ANDO ON UA R ● EEX U N IQ U ● L IP L IN G R A E● TO M ● F O P E R IE NE C H O C ● JA IU JO MY OLA H IL F D ID I ● TA L ● D CK WO ● M OT LOC CE TE K IG ANN O IN L VERITAS ● E V F R G FR E ON KER ●G E E L S K IN B O N B ENC ● A S O N -V ● M L E R IA H● ERH ● BB IN E X N E X YB S O IC I P ● MO PA R S WA R O E C K E ● HOP A R IS G G Y ’S ● IS CA -L O V S K XL ● ● Z M A IE U L' O C N D R E SI ● ● P IC MAS A C ITA ● CO B ● C& R A S IM NE ● DDP O DU EL LO PA R ●G A T TI ●R IS ● E OX ● OUG ●Y VES EGO ●O ROC HUN RGE K HER KE ● N A ÏD I ● NO R IV E M Ö L L E V IA O B R RW G U IL ● CH TEBOO ● S C O DY OOD ● A● M B JÖ R OTC S● ● IC O C O L AT N BO H C 'R I E E RG ● L IO BEL U N JO ● W PA R IS X R IE R O ● LE L' H E W E OSE ● GE R O ÏN UR A E MEN ● C A WO M E L R RY E● IL L E ● N WO L WEB ●M ● E S S S IS FOR P IC K U R S ● CG R ER D● P R IT EGO W IC NE I R K ● L P IM G -S T TE E M O R K IE ● AR ● L A ILL GAN ● TO ● CO A M E E G O E S FA N P IN 12 3 ● F O O L IN O NEU HO & K NCH DIS A N BRO G ÖS T I ● ● C R SAR H M AU S AR EN E E LA RA ● M N ON LO AH P ● LA E M A C IN ● TH LL B A &L I● KO U ●7 ● DI UE CE P IZ CAM IJ N D S CO A ● SP BRO ● R ● ● R LA IC IE B ELG ● ER HA R E OK R IN G SSE U ACO AL EP NZA M C E LY N ● ● G B IC A● F IE E ● G NTE LD MA IL S ● ST R● ● GA ●L ON ● ● CA S IX S IN A ROL ● JUL D ● C CE GA LED L E R W IE P H U IS ES ● ST R LLE ARE ● AT E ● V OCS H R N Y & O ● M F AR EN FO M● ●M AX T RM IZ I ● IS S S B AS NE M IX T Y E S EN ● ●M EP MA ● H W LO C GR G IR H O P OK HI R A E EGO ● ST AL ● O MA R ● DO O VE NE BO M ● RO ● CA STE AY G M E● P ER OD Z A A LI R / JA ● NE C K P IE C A ● VA &J E ● N ON S ● DA ES ● TH ● E B ZARA LE NO O K D N MA UK Y S ID S RLB PE ● H IE GEERT POLLENTIER ● O R IR S E E R A O P ● S O G M GÉ CL A ● K R A R D A S S ICE L E ● V NA D S● K AN PP T AR M E N A P P B O M A R G AE L ● R D TA M E PEA U N RG L ● ● ● CAROLIN E BISS OR A ● KP TO D● ● PETIT BATEAU T WE R F O VA IC E R M AT ● EDISAC AL A AS ANC NDRES PARIS-LO ● R -S T S A N IC E E ● T X T P PARALLA ● E S O N A WO DC B M T P R CH A ● SI N D ● DE ARK VAN ZARREN M E Y E A IL IK A ● OP N 'S S P O R ● T IE Z A ● QUIKE VITAL KD E C R R IT ● I D ● IKKS ELB E H ET ● Z Ü ● ZARA HOME R EC & M ● EZ M O IT U AQ U E ● ● STREET ONE GO GG L S ● ● MASSIMO DUTTI Y 'S ● ● SAXON ● ● SUPERDR Y

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

G U I D E | 67

MAASMECHELEN VILLAGE Maasmechelen Village, Zetellaan 100, 3630 Maasmechelen, +32 (0)89 774000, maasmechelenvillage.com Opening times Monday-Friday: 10am-6pm Saturday-Sunday: 10am-7pm

PERFECT DAY

HOW TO GET THERE By car Leave the E314 at exit 33 and follow the signs for Leisure Valley. At the roundabout follow the signed access road to Leisure Valley and Maasmechelen Village. The journey from Antwerp and Brussels takes about an hour. By train

10am Admire the theatrical collections on ofer at Stijn Helsen’s artistic boutique.

There is a regular SNCB train service to Genk station, which is 20 minutes by taxi from Maasmechelen Village. By bus

2pm Emulate Californian chic at the glamorous Michael Kors store.

De Lijn runs regular hourly bus services (no 45) from Genk and Hasselt train stations. The journey takes an hour. By Shopping Express®

5pm Sarah Pacini produces feminine, timeless and elegant collections made from the fnest fabrics.

globalblue.com

A direct luxury coach service runs daily from rue du Marché aux Herbes in Brussels to Maasmechelen Village.

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

2. Claim

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.

Spend a minimum of €125.01 and save up to 16% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Ofces details

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

Brussels Zaventem Airport Departure Hall Transit Hall Amsterdam Schiphol Airport Departures 3/landside, next to customs Lounge 2/departures, gate E, ABN AMRO Bank, counter 1 lounge 3/non-Schengen area Departures 3/airside

74 / 81

Photographed in Maasmechelen Village. A member of the Chic Outlet Shopping ® Collection of Villages.

Treat yourself to more than 100 luxury outlet boutiques with savings of 30% to 60%* and tax-free shopping. TOMMY HILFIGER HUGO BOSS VERSACE UGG SAMSONITE GUESS

SUPERDRY

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M A A SMECHELENV ILL AGE.COM

MAASMECHELEN VILLAGE IS ONE OF THE CHIC OUTLET SHOPPING ® COLLECTION OF VILLAGES IN EUROPE AND CHINA

EUROPE BICESTER VILLAGE, LONDON KILDARE VILLAGE, DUBLIN LA VALLÉE VILLAGE, PARIS WERTHEIM VILLAGE, FRANKFURT INGOLSTADT VILLAGE, MUNICH MAASMECHELEN VILLAGE, BRUSSELS FIDENZA VILLAGE, MILAN LA ROCA VILLAGE, BARCELONA LAS ROZAS VILLAGE, MADRID CHINA SUZHOU VILLAGE, SUZHOU SHANGHAI VILLAGE, SHANGHAI (OPENING OCTOBER 2015)

TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 34: Creative Thinking

Оригинальное Мышление Благодаря отобранным коллекциям, эксклюзивным дизайнерам и авангардным интерьерам бельгийские концепт-сторы становятся звездами ритейл-сцены страны, – рассказывает Верити Хоган. Бельгия пользуется репутацией страны с авангардной модой, что делает ее одним из лучших шоппинг–направлений Европы. Местная креативная индустрия процветает: в секторе, оцениваемом в 7 миллиардов в год, задействовано более 20 000 человек. В этом сегменте культивируется креативность и инновации, которые поддерживаются зарекомендовавшими себя брендами премиального качества. Бельгийское желание бросать вызов традициям вдохновило целое поколение концепт-сторов по всей стране, которые предлагают что-то свое и уникальное. Авангардный интерьер L’héroïne, выполненный из цемента, немедленно порождает контраст со спящим средневековым городком. Внутри магазина у каждой вещи есть свой характер: платья globalblue.com

с узорами, ассиметричные пиджаки, оригинальные вязаные вещи. Коллекция небрежно элегантна, навряд ли вы найдете вещь с очевидным логотипом. Магазин открылся в 1987 году, в том же, когда и появилось неформальное объединение – Антверпенская шестерка, которые очертили Бельгию на модной карте: такие светила, как Анн Демельмеейстер и Дрис Ван Нотен. «Мы не думали о коммерческой выгоде, – говорит владелец магазина Мартина Геталс, – сегодня мы придерживаемся той же концепции, здесь вы не увидите известные марки, эта площадка для молодых дизайнеров». Помимо изделий Антеверпенской шестерки, L’héroïne было одним из первых мест, которое закупило коллекции самых ярких бельгийских звезд сегодняшней моды. Среди них – в 1990-х годах дизайнер A F Vandevorst, а в 2005 – Christian Wijnants. «Мы также поставляли многих дизайнеров, котором так и не удалось преуспеть, – продолжает Мартина Геталс, – но что делать, это мода». Ее честность – одна из причин, почему услуга персонального шоппинга здесь – одна из лучших в городе. Посетители

гарантировано получат хороший модный совет вместе со своими покупками. Джеф Купманс открыл свой магазин Jef Antwerp с целью «вдохновлять наших клиентов маленькими вещицами, которые делают жизнь приятнее». В его бутике продается премиальный ассортимент столовых приборов, скатертей, парфюмерии и предметов искусства, а еще еда – в секции Foodies Corner. Здесь смешиваются местные и международные марки – стоит ожидать все: от продуктов для волос Balmain до бритвенных принадлежностей от Mühle и скобяных изделий для дома от Skultuna. «Я всегда ищу вещи, которые мне очень нравятся или я сам бы хотел иметь у себя дома», – говорит Купманс. Его личный подход распространяется и на услуги в магазине, что он считает, залогом его успеха. «Поскольку независимым магазинам тяжелее, мы зачастую вкладываем больше усилий в общение с нашими клиентами», – добавляет Купманс. Ароматизированные свечи Lucia, скатерти от Pascale Naessens for Serax и уходовая косметика от L A Bruket – одни из бестселлеров магазина, а дизайн интерьера, спроектированный Купсманом, направлен на то, чтобы внимание было сфокусировано именно на них. «Мой магазин очень прост в плане дизайна:

белые стены и белые блоки, – говорит владелец, – таким образом все внимание сосредоточено именно на изделиях и предметах искусства». Hunting and Collecting в Брюсселе также используют интерьер для того, чтобы привлекать внимание к своему ассортименту. Площадка очень многогранна: каждые шесть месяцев здесь новая тема. «Ничто не привинчено и не прибито, все абсолютно подвижно и интерьер может меняться в зависимости от того, как мы хотим показать вещи», – объясняют владельцы Нильс Радтке и Оде Грибомон. «Модульная конструкция нашего помещения отражает постоянную изменчивость моды и образа жизни. Мы видим наш магазин как редакционные полосы, как журнал». Процесс закупки коллекций здесь – искусная смесь опыта, знания тенденций и того знаменитого «внутреннего чувства». «Это как принимать правильное решение, ставить на то, готов ли рынок к этому, на ту лошадку, которая готова выиграть заезд». Они также говорят, что ищут стиль в том, как дизайнер или марка разрабатывает коллекции. «Мы ищем тех, кто делает правильную продукцию: оригинальная идея, идеальное исполнение и желание клиента», – говорят Радтке и Грибомон. И эти три фактора являются

идеальным описанием бельгийских концепт-сторов: три характеристики, которые и обеспечивают им успех. lheroine.be, jefantwerp.be, huntingandcollecting.com 42: Time To Shine

Время Сиять Бельгийский дизайнер Бенуа Минтен, знаменитый своим неординарным подходом к созданию часов, и его бренд Ressence покоряют новые высоты творчества, – рассказывает Джош Симс Бенуа Минтен откровенно признает, что никогда не помышлял о создании часов, пока в один прекрасный момент ему не предоставилась возможность побывать на одной из выставок часовых новинок. «Я был поражен тем, что большинство представленных экземпляров были практически лишены креативности», – говорит он. По его мнению, большинство часов не представляют из себя ничего интересного, а все потому, что производители не стремятся продавать часы, вместо этого они продают бренд. «Поэтому люди часто платят именно за бренд», – добавляет Минтен. Дизайнер не гонится за мейнстримом, поэтому вполне может позволить себе такие мысли. К тому же он бельгиец, а не швейцарец, и основное направление его деятельности – индустриальный дизайн. За globalblue.com

свою карьеру ему пришлось поработать над многими громкими проектами, такими как дизайн скоростных поездов Eurostar и TGV, оформление салонов бизнескласса для лайнеров Air France, проектирование детских колясок Maxi-Cosi и пылесосов LG. Последние несколько лет Минтен посвятил разработке часов собственной марки Ressence. «Создать часовой бренд задача не из легких, – отмечает он. Учитывая, что я не швейцарец и никогда этим не занимался, то для меня это было равносильно восхождению на вершину». Спроектированные дизайнером и собранные в Швейцарии модели часов Type 1 и Type 3 отличаются серией инноваций, в частности они имеют конструкцию из концентрических дисков, вращающихся по кругу, подобно космическим спутникам. Авторский дизайн также повлиял на техническую эстетику. Новая коллекция часов получила привлекательную округлую форму с одинарным циферблатом и широкими, близко расположенными кристаллами – своеобразный эквивалент больших плазменных телевизоров. При этом сама конструкция далеко не отражает хрононометрический способ мышления. «Большинство часовщиков сперва создают механизм, а уже затем придают

ему форму, в то время как индустриальные дизайнеры начинают с того, что помещают себя на место будущего владельца. – говорит он. – На самом деле, то как мы привыкли определять время – по двум стрелкам – с дизайнерской точки зрения не самый удачный вариант. Тем не менее, он все же лучше, чем цифровой циферблат, поскольку требует определенных навыков и заставляет мыслить. Порой циферблаты не очень интуитивны, но когда в них хорошо разобраться определение времени начинает приносить удовольствие». В часах Ressence даже нет привычной заводной головки. Эта функция все еще присутствует, однако Минтен считает ее нелепым атавизмом, учитывая, что мы живем в 21 веке. Для сравнения он приводит современную машину, которую пришлось бы заводить пусковой рукояткой. «Я считаю, что заводная головка это последнее, что напоминает нам о механической природе часов, – говорит он, – в то время как мне хочется, чтобы они были чистейшим выражением времени, лишенным материальной основы. Однако без функции подзавода часы не более, чем предмет искусства. Похожая ситуация обстоит с пылесосами. Было время, когда от пылесоса нам требовалась лишь функция чистки, и ничего больше.

Теперь появились ребята вроде Джеймса Дайсона, поднявшие пылесос на совершенно новый уровень». Некоторые находят Минтена неромантичным, а его идеи – противоречащими классическим традициям современного часового мастерства. Даже его обоснование отказа от механической составляющей часов основывается на чисто интеллектуальном мышлении. «Дело в том, что людей больше тянет к механизмам, чем к проводам и электронике, – считает он, – именно поэтому, сломайся у нас что-то электрическое, мы это просто выкидываем в мусор, а с механическими вещами все немного иначе, – всегда есть надежда заменить какой-нибудь винтик и все встанет на свои места». Минтен приложил много усилий, чтобы запатентовать все свои изобретения. Он говорит, что аутсайдерская позиция и нестандартное мышление в сфере часового производства привели его к большому числу дизайнерских открытий, которые позволят выпускать по одной модели часов каждый год вплоть до 2022 года. Пожалуй единственным препятствием на пути в его карьере часовщика является тот факт, что он живет и работает в Антверпене, а не в Женеве. По словам Минтена, часовой мастер бельгиец всегда будет находится в невыгодном положении. «Для развитых

рынков вряд ли будет иметь значение, где расположена компания Ressence, – добавляет он, – чего нельзя сказать о покупателях на Ближнем Востоке. На самом деле, в Швейцарии я даже не могу заявить, что мое изделие – это бельгийские часы, я просто обязан подчеркнуть, что они сделаны в Швейцарии, несмотря на то, что Ressence – бельгийский бренд. Это напоминает Apple – разработано в Калифорнии, но сделано в Китае». Показательная аналогия – Стив Джобс и часы Apple watch. ressence.eu 68: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free globalblue.com

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34: Creative Thinking 异想天开凭借精心挑选的系列、独家设计师品牌与前卫的内部装潢，比利时的顶尖概念店正成为该国零售业冉冉升起的新星。Verity Hogan报道以突破边界的时尚设计而著称，比利时是欧洲最令人兴奋的设计国度之一。该国时尚界更是欣欣向荣：有超过两万人从事该行业，年产值超过70亿欧元。这也是一个勇夺创意与创新桂冠的产业，背后的支持者是成规模、高水准的制造商。比利时勇于拥抱新事物、并在必要时打破陈规的精神，让全国各地的概念店纷纷涌现，每间都

75 提供独特的、与众不同的商品。布鲁日L’héroïne的酷感混凝土外观，与小镇上风景如画的中世纪建筑形成鲜明对比。店内的货架上则摆满个性突出的产品：从印花连衣裙、不对称夹克到夺人眼球的针织品。产品风格轻松随意，在任何商品上都很难找到明显logo。该店成立于1987 年，正是安特卫普六君子开始非正式聚会的那一年——这群著名设计师将比利时钉上时尚版图，其中包括 Ann Demeulemeester与Dries Van Noten等明星设计师。 “我们不进行商业化思考；我们希望提供的是创意和创新， ”店主 Martine Goethals表示。 “时至今日我们仍保有相同理念：你不会在此找到大品牌，我们是为年轻设计师打造的平台。” L’héroïne不仅从最初就贩售安特卫普六君子中成员的设计，也是最早经营一批比利时顶级设计人才作品的店铺。 “在上世纪90年代，我们是第一家贩卖A F Vandevorst的店，然后在2005年，我们引入了年轻的Christian Wijnants， ”Goethals继续说道。 “我们也代理许多不那么成功的年轻设计师的作品——但这就是时尚。”她的这份诚实是其成为比利时最佳私人导购的原因之一：店内的到访者们在购物时可以获得中肯的时尚建议。 Jef Coopmans开设 Jef Antwerp意在“鼓励顾客们通过寻觅小物件让生活变得更为美好”。他的店里陈列一系列奢侈货品，从家居装饰品与餐具，到香水和艺术作品，以及被称为Foodies Corner的美食专柜。这里兼营国际和本土品牌；可以见到从Balmain的美发产品与Mühle的剃须配件，到Skultuna黄铜家居装饰品。店内的产品组合兼收并蓄又带有些许个人色彩。 “我总是挑选那些自己真心喜爱的，会摆放在自己家里的东

西， ”Coopmans表示。他的个性手法一直延伸到店内服务，这也被Coopmans认为是自己的成功秘诀。 “因为独立店铺有时会经历一些困难，所以我们倾向对顾客倾注更多热情， ”他补充道。Lucia家居系列的香薰蜡烛， Pascale Naessens 为Serax设计的餐具与L A Bruket 的护肤品都是店内最受欢迎的商品，Coopmans的陈列设计则确保这些产品成为人们关注的焦点。 “我的店铺设计非常简单：白墙与白色块， ”他说。这样才能醒目突出贩卖的商品与艺术品，他解释道。布鲁塞尔的Hunting and Col-

品。其内部空间是多功能的，并且每半年换一个新设计主题。 “什么东西都不会固定或用螺帽拴紧，都是可以移动的，并且内部可被打造成以各种方式显示产品的空间， ”店主Aude Gribomont与Niels Radtke表示。 “ 店内的模块化设计也体现出时尚和生活方式的永恒变化。我们将其视作可编排的空间，就像一本杂志。” 店主挑选的货品包括一系列全球最吸引人的时尚、设计、文化和生活方式产品。涵盖从 Acne与3.1 Phillip Lim到Givenchy与Kenzo等品牌，该店是许多品牌在比利时的独家代理，如比利时设计师A Knackfuss，洛杉矶街头品牌Stampd，伦敦的Uribe珠宝与巴黎中性时尚品牌Harmony。店主挑货过程需要经验、对趋势的了解与最为重要的直觉之间的巧妙平衡。 “你需要做出正确的决定，预测市场目前能接受什么，并在有前途的品牌上下注， ”二人表示。他们同时补充道自己是以一种品牌与设计师审度时尚的方法选货。 “我们寻找的是能带来好产品的特质：原创概念、最佳执行力以及最能吸引人， ”他们表示。原创性、执行力与吸引力：这三个词精准描述了比利时领先概念店的特性。也是确保其能持续获得成功的要素。 lheroine.be, jefantwerp.be,

huntingandcollecting.com 42: Time To Shine 闪耀时刻凭借全新腕表设计手法，比利时设计师Benoit Mintiens带领Ressence品牌攀上创意新高峰。他的名字也位居全球最具创意人士之列。Josh Sims 报道

Benoit Mintiens非常直率。他坦诚自 globalblue.com

PHOTO: GENIUSWAVE FILMS

lecting同样利用装潢设计衬托产

己从未想过会设计腕表，直到某年参观了一个表展。 “我为这么多腕表的创意度都如此之低而震惊， ”他表示。大多数手表，他继续说道，都不让人觉得有趣，这完全是制表商的缘故。因为手表制造商们贩卖的不是手表本身，而是品牌，他解释道。 “大多数人也是冲着品牌去买， ”Mintiens补充。远离主流钟表业的Mintiens完全有资格这么说。毕竟他来自比利时，而非瑞士。他也不是一名手表设计师，而是工业设计师。他的设计资历显赫：曾为法国SNCF设计欧洲之行列车与新一代 TGV 高速列车；为法航设计头等舱内部装饰，为Maxi - Cosi设计折叠式婴儿车，还为 LG 设计过吸尘器。在过去几年中，他为自有品牌Ressence 设计腕表。“我并不想打造品牌， ”他指出。 “因为那对于非瑞士人、非钟表匠而言是相当困难的。” 他那瑞士制造的Type 1和Type 3腕表中引入了不少先锋概念，例如通过一组圆形转盘显示时间，就像卫星环绕行星轨道。外形设计同样重塑腕表经典美学。腕表如同鹅卵石般呈曲线形态，采用单层表盘与宽水晶玻璃表镜— —类似于在腕表上运用大型等离子屏幕。并且令人耳目一新的是，这些表款呈现出反钟表的思维方式。 “多数制表师从机芯开始，并围

77 绕其发展设计，而工业设计师从用户体验开始， ”他表示。 “事实上，我们习得的那种从指针读时间的方法，从一名设计师的角度而言，并非最佳方法。并且，图形化的展示方法比数字更好，因为读起来更快。然而这种读时间的方法并不直观、必须要加以解释：只有当人们学会以后这才是最好的方式。” 细看 Ressence 腕表竟没有传统意义上的表冠。该功能仍是必需的，但是 Mintiens认为，在21世纪的腕表上突出具有这个功能的零件，就像在现代汽车上运用发条缠绕器一般。 “对我而言，表冠是与腕表的机械感联系最弱的部件， ”他表示。 “我希望腕表能被非物质化，成为对时间最纯粹的表达。你必须拥有这个功能。如果不具备功能性，那就只是艺术品而已。但这就像是吸尘器。曾几何时，我们只用其来清洁，但并没有想要更多。现在有了James Dyson这样的人，为真空吸尘器带来了新理念。” 有些人会认为 M int iens 太不浪漫，背离了高档腕表注重历史、传统、工艺与古典的理念。即便他保留机械表芯的原因也是相当理智的。 “事实上人们喜欢齿轮，却不喜欢电路。我们人类相比数码更钟情于机械。”他指出。 “这就是为何数码设备一损坏就会被丢弃。但对于机械制品我们却不这样做；我们即刻想到的是，是不是哪里出了小问题能不能被复原，就像对待小动物一样。” Mintiens已为自己的设计注册了不少昂贵专利。他表示，以自己非制表师的局外人角度，他有许多创新腕表设计灵感，足以让他每年推出一个新款，直到 2022 年。着实，从外界人士看来，对他而言在制表上的唯一障碍，就是品牌不幸建立于安特卫普而非日内瓦。然而他表示在比利时从事钟表业优势多过劣势。 “成熟市场可能并不在

乎Ressence来自哪里， ”他补充， “但中东地区的顾客在乎。事实上，并不能说我的产品是瑞士的比利时腕表—— 必须强调的是，它们在瑞士制造，即便 Ressence 是一个比利时品牌。这有点像苹果——加州设计，中国制造。” 打个恰如其分的比方：他就是腕表界的史蒂夫·乔布斯。 ressence.eu

68: When you shop the world, shop tax free 畅购全球，尊享退税当您在全球顶级购物区中的 27 万多家商店消费时，环球蓝联（G l o b a l Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程：

1. 消费购物无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点领取您的退税款。联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€125. 01即可节约高达购买价格16%的税。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退税手续费。

日本語翻訳

34: Creative Thinking クリエイティブな発想丹念に編集されたコレクション、高級デザイナーブランド、最先端のインテリア。ベルギー有数のコンセプトストアはこの国の小売業界に輝ける新星だ。ヴェリティ・ホーガンがレポートする。最先端のコレクションの境界を押し広げることで定評のあるベルギーは、ヨーロッパ有数のエキサイティングなデザイン発信地だ。この国のファッション界は2万人以上が働き、年商は70 億ユーロ超と好況を呈している。創造性と革新性を旨とする業界で、確固たる実績と高品質を誇る製造業者に支えられている。新しさを取り入れようとし、必要とあらばルール破りも辞さないベルギーでは、各地にコンセプトストアが出現し、その各々が何かしらユニークで群を抜いたものを提供している。ブルージュにあるレロインヌ（L’héroïne）の洗練されたコンクリートの外観は、この街の絵に描いたような中世建築とは対極にある。店内はプリントのドレスや非対称のジャケット、大胆なニットウェアなど個性にあふれた商品が豊富だ。品揃えはさりげなくシックで、どの品にも一目でそれとわかるようなロゴは付いていない。この店がオープンしたのは1987年。アントワープ・シックスの最初の非公式な集まりが行われたのと同じ年だ。アントワープ・シックスはベルギーをファッションマップに載せたことで知られるデザイナーグループで、アン・ドゥムルメステール、ドリス・ヴァン・ノッテンといった有名どころもメンバーだった。「商売という考えはありませんでした。創造性と革新性を提供したかっ globalblue.com

たのです」というのは、レロインヌのオーナーのマルティーヌ・ゲタールだ。「そのコンセプトは現在も変わっていません。ここには大手レーベルの服はありません。今でも若手デザイナーの飛躍の土台なのです。」レロインヌはオープン当初からアントワープ・シックスのメンバーの作品を扱ってきただけでなく、ベルギーのトップデザイナーの商品を特集するコンセプトストアの草分け的存在だ。「1990 年代に A . F.ヴァンデヴォーストを早々と置いた店の一つで、その後の2005年には若手のクリスチャン・ワイナンツを紹介しました。他の若手デザイナーの作品もたくさん置きましたが、残念ながら鳴かず飛ばずに終わっています。まあ、それがファッションというものです。」ゲタールのこうした正直さは、彼女のパーソナルショッピングサービスがベルギーでトップクラスといわれる理由の一つだ。この店を訪れる人は、商品だけでなく、しっかりしたファッションアドバイスも必ず持ち帰ることができるのだ。ジェフ・クープマンズが自店ジェフ・アントワープをオープンした狙いは、「人生をステキにするちょっとした物を探すことで、お客様にインスピレーションを与えたかった」からだという。彼の店ではホームアクセサリーから食器、香水、美術品まで選りすぐりの高級品を揃え、フーディーズ・コーナーと呼ばれるグルメ部門もある。国際ブランドとベルギーの地元ブランドが目玉で、バルマンのヘア商品、ミュールの髭そり用品、スクルトゥナの真鍮製インテリアデコレーションと何でもござれ。パーソナルな感覚で折衷的に揃えている。「自分が好きで自宅に置きたいと思うようなものを、いつも探しています」というクープマンズだ。彼のパーソナルタッチは店のサービスにも表れており、それが成功の

秘密だとクープマンズは考えている。「独立系の店はなかなか難しい場合があります。でも、だからこそお客様と共にあるよう一層努力するのです。」ルシアの芳香キャンドル、パスカル・ナーセンスが手掛けるセラックスの食器、リラ・ブルケットのスキンケア製品などがこの店の人気商品で、クープマンズの店舗インテリアは商品に目が行くようにデザインされている。「僕の店は、白い壁に白ブロックとごくシンプルなデザインです。」だから、売っている商品や美術品がぐんと引き立つわけだ。ブリュッセルのハンティング・アンド・コレクティングでも、商品が主役のインテリアデザインを採用している。変幻自在のスペースで、6か月ごとに新たなテーマが考案される。「固定されたりネジで止められたりしている

ものは一切ありません。全てが移動可能で、インテリアが変化して商品を様々な形で陳列できるようになっています」と、オーナーのオード・グリボモンとニルス・ラトケは説明する。「店がモジュール式になっているのは、ファッションやライフスタイルの絶え間ない変化を反映したものです。店というより編集的なスペース、雑誌のようなスペースだと考えています。」そういうオーナーの編集の腕前は、世界から実に興味深いファッション、デザイン、文化、ライフスタイルのアイテムを含めた品揃えに発揮されている。同店は、目玉ブランドとしてアクネや3.1フィリップ・リム、ジバンシー、ケンゾーなどを扱うほか、ベルギーのデザイナーA. クナックフースをはじめ、ロサンゼルスのストリートウェアブランド「スタンプド」、ロンドンのジュエリーブランド「ウリベ」、パリのユニセックスファッションレーベル「ハーモニー」など、多くのレーベルの国内独占アウトレットでもある。オーナーの仕入れプロセスでは、経験と現トレンドの知識、そして最も重要な直感の微妙なバランスが必要になる。「要は正しい選択をすること。消費者が飛びつくものを予期し、勝ち馬に賭けること」が秘訣らしい。注目するのは、ブランドやデザイナーのスタイルに対する天性のセンスだという。「ちゃんとした製品を作るブランドやデザイナーを探しているんです。つまり、オリジナルのアイデアを絶妙に製品化した極めて好ましいアイテムです。」オリジナリティ、巧みな製品化、望ましい結果。この3つはまさに、ベルギーの有名コンセプトストアを完璧に言い表す言葉だ。成功が長続きする可能性が高いのは、こうした特性があればこそだ。 lheroine.be, jefantwerp.be,

huntingandcollecting.com

42: Time To Shine 輝きを放つ時ベルギー人デザイナーのベノワ・ミンティエンスは時計作りに対する新鮮なアプローチで、彼のレッセンスブランドをクリエイティビティの高みに押し上げている。世界有数の革新家と比較されるほどだ。ジョッシュ・シムズがレポートする。ベノワ・ミンティエンスは手加減しない。ある年に時計の見本市を訪ねるまでは時計をデザインしようなどとは夢にも思わなかったと認める彼は、「クリエイティビティのレベルが低い時計があまりにも多いのに驚いた」という。ほとんどの時計はオブジェとして興味を引かれるようなものではなく、彼によればそれはメーカー側の思惑で作られているからだという。時計メーカーは時計を売っているというよりブランドを売っている、と彼は説明する。「そして、買う側もほとんどがブランドを買っているんです。」ミンティエンスがそんなことを言ってのけられるのは、時計業界の主流の外にいるおかげだ。何しろ彼は、スイス人ではなくベルギー人なのだ。おまけに、時計デザイナーではなく工業デザイナーだ。しかも立派な経歴を持つ工業デザイナーだ。ユーロスターやフランス国有鉄道の新世代高速鉄道 TGVのデザインに関わり、エールフランスのファーストクラスのインテリアを担当し、マキシコシのベビーカーや LGの掃除機もデザインした。そして、ここ数年は自己ブランド「レッセンス」の下に時計もデザインしているが、「ブランドを創る気はなかった」という。「スイス人でなく時計職人でもない者にとって、それはとてつもなく高い山を登るようなものですからね。」彼がスイスで作らせている「タイプ1」と「タイプ3」の時計は、一連の同 globalblue.com

心円のディスクが惑星の周囲を軌道を描いて回る月のように互いの周りを回る時刻表示など、画期的なアイデアを導入している。このデザインは時計の美学をも刷新した。これらの時計は丸みを帯びた小石のような形で、単一層の文字盤をワイドに覆うクリスタルの風防がぴったりと装着されている。いわば、大画面プラズマテレビの時計版だ。そして、むしろ時計学とは無縁の思考法を反映している点が新しい。「時計メーカーはたいてい作動機構から始め、そこを起点に考えますが、工業デザイナーはユーザーの使用体験から入るんです」と、ミンティエンス。「私たちが教えられた一連の針による時刻の読み方は、デザイナーの観点から見れば実は最善の方法ではないんです。もちろん、そうした図形的な表示は時刻が速く読み取れるのでデジタルよりはいいんですよ。ただ、読み方を説明しなくてはならない。直感的じゃないからです。読み方を学んではじめて、それが最善の表示法になるだけのことなんです。」レッセンスの時計はというと、普通ある竜頭すらない。竜頭の機能そのものは依然として必要とはいえ、そのための仕掛けが 21世紀になっても時計の本体から突出しているというのはおかしい。まるで、近代的な車にエンジン始動用のクランクハンドルが付いているようなもの、とミンティエンスは主張するのだ。「私にとって竜頭は、時計が機械的な仕掛けであることを想起させる最後の物理的リンクでした。私は時計を非物質化したいと思っていました。最も純粋な時間の表現です。それだけは、最後の機能としてなくてはならないものでした。機能性が無くなれば、アートになります。ただ、それは掃除機と同じことで、昔は掃除機には掃除の機能があればそれでよく、それ以外の

81 ことは気に掛けなかったのに、今はジェームズ・ダイソンのように掃除機に新たな観点を持ち込んだ人たちがいます。」ミンティエンスのことを浪漫がないという人もいる。高級時計界が歴史や伝統、職人技、古典主義といったものを大事にするのとは逆の立場をとっているからだ。機械的な作動機構を残した理由も知的だ。「実は人はギアには思い入れを抱きますが回路には抱かないんです。それは、私たちが人間としてデジタルよりもメカニカルに共感を覚えるからです」と彼は言う。「だから、デジタルの装置は機能しなくなったらゴミ箱行きです。けれど、メカニカルなものは捨てません。つい、どこかの小さな歯車を直せばいいんじゃないかって思うわけです。小動物みたいな感じがするんでしょうね。」ミンティエンスは自分のアイデアの特許登録に相当額を投資している。彼いわく、時計メーカーとは違ったアウトサイダー的な観点で見ているおかげで、時計デザイン革新のアイデアが、2022 年まで毎年1モデルずつ発表できるほどあるという。実際、彼の時計作りにとっておそらく唯一の障害は、広い時計の世界から見れば不幸にもジュネーヴでなくアントワープを拠点としているということだろう。ミンティエンスによれば、ベルギー人であるということは時計業界ではやはり不利なのだ。「成熟した市場であれば、レッセンスがどこから来ていようが構わないかもしれませんが、例えば中東のお客様にとっては問題なわけです。それどころか、スイスでは私の製品がベルギーの時計だということすらできません。レッセンスはベルギーのブランドだけれども、メイド・イン・スイスだという点を強調しなければならないのです。カリフォルニアでデザインされても、メイド・イン・チャ

イナというアップルと、ちょっと似てますね。」なるほど。ミンティエンスは時計界のスティーヴ・ジョブズ、とはうまい例えだ。 ressence.eu

68: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税にグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。年間 2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを踏むだけです。 1.お買い物お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに。 2.還付請求ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。 €125.01以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高16％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課されます。

82 | P RO D U C T S

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