HOLLAND | 荷兰 | ГОЛЛАНДИЯ | BELANDA
HOLLAND Country Edition Spring/Summer 2017
Page 34 CITY OF DIAMONDS: discover Amsterdam’s top places to buy the perfect gem
Welcome to the world of
premium
shopping De Bijenkorf promises a truly memorable shopping experience. Home to exclusive brands such as Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Cartier, Gucci and Dior, the department store offers an unrivalled assortment of fashion, jewellery, leather goods and more. Non-EU customers can get an instant tax refund on all purchases, powered by Global Blue.
De Bijenkorf将带给您难忘的购物体验。这家百货 商店有众多知名品牌入驻,如路易威登(Louis Vuitton)、爱马仕(Hermès)、卡地亚(Cartier) 、古驰(Gucci)和迪奥(Dior),能够提供无与伦 比、琳琅满目的时装、首饰、皮具等。 在Global Blue的支持下,非欧盟顾客购买的所有商品 都能获得即时退税。
Dam 1, Amsterdam (city centre) For more information and other locations: deBijenkorf.nl/international
PC HOOFTSTRAAT 125 AMSTERDAM KALVERSTRAAT 117 AMSTERDAM
PC Hooftstraat 105, Amsterdam
Andy Warhol: Ambulance Disaster, 1963-64 Š The Andy Warhol Foundation / ARS Calvin Klein: Classic Denim Jeans (Archival Originals, 1980) and Classic Denim Jeans (Archival Originals, 1982) Photographed at The Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburgh
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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens & Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen 捷克共和国
Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera
أملانيا 德国
Германия Gothenburg
Welcome to Holland
Hamburg Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Oslo Paris 巴黎
Portugal Prague Rome SE Finland Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna
Emma Cheevers
Чехия
/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
/globalblue
@GlobalBlue
GlobalBlue环球蓝联
/globalblue
@shopcontent
ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN
Discover the best of this cosmopolitan European country with SHOP. Read about Holland’s innovative design scene on page 40, as well as some of the capital’s most groundbreaking places to eat on page 46, and much more. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 16% when shopping in Holland. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Holland. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without filling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
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CONTRIBUTORS
Emma Holmqvist Deacon Central Saint Martins-trained fashion writer Emma Holmqvist Deacon is a self-confessed Anglophile with Swedish roots. As well as SHOP, she writes for a wide variety of magazines, including Plaza, Plaza Watch, Business Destinations, JC Report and the streetwear magazine Sportswear International. globalblue.com
Hannah Lewis Hannah Lewis, SHOP’s features editor, holds degrees from both the University of Oxford and the London College of Fashion. She has written for a number of international publications, including Quintessentially in London and Prestige in Hong Kong. Hannah believes the ultimate travel essential is a good book.
ILLUSTRATION: GIORDANO POLONI; PHOTO: (RIGHT) KATIE WILSON ELL
Giordano Poloni Giordano Poloni created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Holland. His stylish artwork has previously been commissioned by Vice magazine, the New Scientist and Hearst Magazines, among others. His unique approach makes him a perfect illustrator for this cover, based on our feature about Amsterdam’s world-class diamond purveyors on page 34. It shows a bejewelled cityscape with the famous seven bridges of Reguliersgracht as diamond rings and bracelets. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Giordano Poloni Contributor Emma Holmqvist Deacon Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion assistant Rebecca Rhys-Evans News editor Ginger Rose Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworker Milkha Lala Artworker Samantha Junak Artworking assistants Shirley Lau, Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Translation services Language Connect Print Dane Consultancy
GLOBA L BLU E NETHER LA NDS Head of commercial Benelux Jorn Hoogesteijn Marketing and sales manager Kathy van Haaren Sales manager Kim Joostens Sales and marketing support Nikki de Graaf, Regina de Neve Key account manager Peter Belang Account manager telesales Samuel Sonius Account managers Astrid Maes, Karish Resodikromo, Irene Schermer Global Blue Holland BV, Arlandaweg 92, 1043 EX Amsterdam, The Netherlands, +31 (0)88 806 0800
Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio services production coordinator Inga Abramian Marketing intern Joanna Dodge
Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2017 Global Blue
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CONTENTS 30
PAGE
40
PRODUCTS
FEATURES
18 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Holland this season 20 My Favourites Demy de Zeeuw of BALR reveals his top tips for spring/ summer 2017 22 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
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NEWS 26 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Holland 28 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
Cover story:
True Brilliance Amsterdam has long been one of the world’s most important destinations for diamonds. Hannah Lewis gets the lowdown on how to find the perfect stone 40 Form And Substance There’s much more to Dutch design than the sum of its parts. Emma Holmqvist Deacon takes a look at one of the most compelling creative scenes in the world
Above (from left): Tommy Hilfiger spring/summer 2017; Droog’s must-visit Amsterdam store
PHOTOS: (LEFT) © DAN AND CORINA LECCA; (RIGHT) THIJS WOLZAK
PAGE
A BEAUTIFUL CITY BAG IS ONE YOU WEAR BUT NEVER CARRY
Amsterdam - Heiligeweg 39 Roermond Outlet - Stadsweide 170 kipling.com
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CONTENTS EXPERIENCE
ESSENTIALS
46 Table Talk Amsterdam’s farm-to-table restaurants have much to offer, says Mónica R Goya 50 Perfect Day Where to go and what to do in Rotterdam and The Hague
80 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
GUIDE 55 Maps and guides to Holland’s top shops and destinations, plus SHOP’s unique view of the country’s sights
TRANSLATIONS 81 美文翻译 85 Русский Перевод 91 Terjemahan Bahasa Indonesia
SOUVENIR 98 The essential item to bring home
E NGL ISH | Р УС С К И Й | 中文
VISIT US ONLINE...
The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com
Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru globalblue.cn 每日更新精
FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- GlobalBlue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent
PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
品购物信息,分享海外省 钱秘笈
Leading menswear store in Italian Brands Attolini, BrionI, Caruso, Canali, Corneliani, Etro, Jacob Cohën, Loro Piana, Marinella, Moncler, Santoni, Woolrich and many more.
意大利领先潮流男装品牌 Ведущий мужской магазин итальянских брендов P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 75-81 AMSTERDAM, NOORDEINDE 4-6 THE HAGUE KRUISKADE 63-65 ROTTERDAM, LANGE GASTHUISSTRAAT 7 ANTWERPEN(BE) or shop online at oger.nl
PURPLE PATCH Rose gold and amethysts combine to elegant effect in this pair of drop earrings from Amsterdam’s Ace Jewelers. They feature two striking cabochon amethysts on 18-carat rose gold hoops, and are finished with 0.09 carats of diamonds. Ace Jewelers is a family-owned company founded in 1975, which has two boutiques in Amsterdam and an e-commerce site which carry a variety of items Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 80
from Ace’s own collection along with jewellery and watches from brands such as Bulgari, Messika, Omega and others. One of the stores, Ace & Spyer, is set in a beautiful art deco building that was renovated in 1998, making it the ideal backdrop for Ace’s contemporary classic designs. fm Ace Collections amethyst earrings, €1,380, Ace & Spyer, Koningsplein 1, 1017 BB Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 571 1560, acejewelers.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 74
PHOTO: ACEJEWELERS.COM
CH ECK O UT
DO EXPLORE The new collection
AMSTERDAM AMSTERDAM ROTTERDAM DEN HAAG ROERMOND
KALVERSTRAAT 86 LEIDSESTRAAT 51 BEURSTRAVERSE 180 PASSAGE 71 MCARTHUR GLEN OUTLET STADSWEIDE 336
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MY FAVOURITES: DEMY DE ZEEUW Former footballer Demy de Zeeuw – known for his fashion sense during his successful career – is one of the co-founders of BALR, a luxury sports brand. Launched in 2013, it has become known for its T-shirts, footwear and accessories, which have been spotted on players and celebrities alike. BALR recently opened its first flagship store in Amsterdam. Demy shares his insider tips for spring/summer 2017 with Ximena Daneri
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1. ‘Interior designer Eric Kuster’s showroom is just outside Amsterdam. If you want metropolitan luxury from the Netherlands, this is the place you should go’ Eric Kuster, Sparrenlaan 11, 1272 RN Huizen, +31 (0)35 531 8773, erickuster.com
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2. ‘This is my all-time favourite fragrance for women. It’s elegant and glamorous, with a little edge’ Tom Ford Velvet Orchid eau de parfum, 100ml, €141.40, Douglas, Kalverstraat 71, 1012 NZ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 627 6663, tomford.com
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 80
3. ‘This bag is perfect for every trip. The fine leather combined with silver details make this piece eye-catching and functional’ BALR leather weekender, €975, BALR, Kalverstraat 147, 1012 XB Amsterdam, +31 (0)88 225 7368, balr.com
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4. ‘W Hotel is one of my favourite places to go in Amsterdam. They have good food at The Duchess or Mr Porter, great rooms, and the best parties at Mad Fox – and all in one place. What else could you want from a hotel?’ W Hotel, Spuistraat 175, 1012 VN Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 811 2500, wamsterdam.nl
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5 PHOTOS: (3) ED VAN DE POL; (4) LUTZ VORDERWUELBECKE
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5. ‘This is how I like my sneakers: clean and simple with a great fit. The Boost sole is amazing when you’re running around 24/7’ Y-3 Yohji Run trainers, €290, Hombre Amsterdam, Jan Evertsenstraat 70, 1056 EE Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 683 8558, y-3.com
globalblue.com
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6. ‘Combining classic Swiss elements with all the added functionalities of a smartwatch, the Samsung Gear S3 is my go-to timepiece these days’ Samsung Gear S3 Special Edition Designed by BALR, €499, BALR, Kalverstraat 147, 1012 XB Amsterdam, +31 (0)88 225 7368, balr.com
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PRETTY CHIC
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Pink, white and gold are an elegant combination for spring and summer 1
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1. & Other Stories top, €49, & Other Stories, Heiligeweg 26-28, 1012 XR Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 427 5139, stories.com
4. Charlotte Wooning bracelet, €160, Charlotte Wooning, Hoogstraat 8A, 3011 PN Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 243 0315, charlottewooning.com
2. Tod’s shoes, price on request, Tod’s, PC Hooftstraat 74, 1071 CB Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 675 7143, tods.com
5. Weekday shorts, €70, Weekday, Beursplein 12, 3012 AT Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 413 4776, weekday.com
3. Boss The Scent eau de parfum, 50ml, €80, Boss, PC Hooftstraat 118-120, 1071 CD Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 471 5835, hugoboss.com
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 80
PHOTOS: (1) IBEYOSTUDIO; (5) PICANTE.SE
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boggi.com
MADE IN
Amsterdam | P.C. Hooftstraat 38 | Tel. +31 20 737.22.03
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SMOKY TONES Accessorise with the newest gadgets to complete your casual travelling outfit 1
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1. Mujjo iPhone 7 Plus case, €49.90, Sissy-Boy, Stationsplein 39B, 1012 AB Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 740 0723, mujjo.com 2. Sennheiser headphones, €399, Media Markt, Binnenwegplein 50-52, 3012 KA Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 433 5000, sennheiser.com
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 80
3. Montblanc Legend Spirit fragrance, 100ml, €73, De Bijenkorf, Dam 1, 1012 JS Amsterdam, +31 (0)88 245 3333, montblanc.com 4. Moncler sunglasses, €350, Moncler, PC Hooftstraat 90, 1071 CC Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 490 4790, moncler.com 5. Filling Pieces sneakers, €240, Aspact, Dagelijkse Groenmarkt 20, 2513 AL The Hague, +31 (0)70 763 1363, fillingpieces.com
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PHOTO: (7) CARLO BEVILACQUA
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6. Hublot watch, €63,000, Schaap en Citroen, PC Hooftstraat 51, 1071 BZ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 303 1192, hublot.com
8. Diesel T-shirt, €49, Diesel, Heiligeweg 15, 1012 XN Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 638 4082, diesel.com
7. Ermenegildo Zegna carry-on case, €1,695, Ermenegildo Zegna, PC Hooftstraat 76, 1071 BP Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 305 3050, zegna.com
9. Cos trousers, €79, Cos, Venestraat 17-19, 2511 AR The Hague, +31 (0)70 363 5773, cosstores.com
globalblue.com
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SEE HERE This February eyewear brand Ace & Tate opened its third store in Amsterdam, its sixth in the Netherlands, in the charming Jordaan neighbourhood. The store interior, designed in conjunction with Standard Studio, was inspired by the creative vision of Willem Sandberg: the colour scheme and prints reference the Dutch graphic designer’s work. Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 80
Artist Bart de Baets lends artistic touches to the new space with neon installations and artwork. Besides browsing the brand’s on-trend eyewear, you’ll be able to make the most of the store’s patio, a photo booth and the in-house optician with whom you can book a complimentary eye test. grc Ace & Tate, Haarlemmerstraat 70, 1013 ET Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 261 8921, aceandtate.com
PHOTO: WOUTER VAN DER SAR PHOTOGRAPHY
SHOP WINDOW
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PERFECT SCENTS Fragrance brand Abel recently launched the Vita Odor collection of five eaux de parfum made using natural ingredients. Each has its own distinct identity, based on woody, fresh or floral aromas: chose from Red Santal, White Vetiver, Golden Neroli, Cobalt Amber or Grey Labdanum. Priced at €45 for 15ml or €98 for 50ml, the perfumes come in sleek packaging by Atelier Joachim Baan. Founded in Amsterdam in 2013, the brand prides itself on creating 100% organic perfumes. js
NATURAL GOODNESS From its beginnings in 1995, Lush has filled a gap in the market for all-natural beauty products that are ethical but still have a bright, cheerful appearance. The brand’s recently opened store in The Hague, its largest in Holland, Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 80
Skins Cosmetics, Runstraat 11, 1016 GJ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 240 0199, abelodor.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 70
spans 250 square metres over two floors, and carries the full range of its fresh, handmade products. It also has a skincare consultation bar for expert advice, a hair lab that offers professional wash and styling services and a party room for bespoke events. rre Lush, Kalverstraat 98, 1012 PJ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 330 6376, lush.nl FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 66
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THE ART OF LIFE Celebrated Dutch artist Johannes Vermeer is the subject of a must-have book published by Taschen in February 2017. Vermeer: The Complete Works (€29.99), by Karl Schütz, presents everything produced by the 17th-century artist who is famed for paintings such as Girl with a Pearl Earring, among others. Across the book’s 258 pages, Vermeer’s portraits, household scenes and cityscapes provide insights into the Dutch Golden Age as seen through his eyes. With new photographs of many of his pieces, this highquality hardcover book will make a great souvenir of your visit to Holland. grc
Taschen, PC Hooftstraat 44, 1071 BZ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 662 7820, taschen.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 72
BACK TO BASICS Visit the Calvin Klein Jeans store in Amsterdam to pick up some stylish men’s wardrobe staples, from casual loungewear through to a wide choice of denim. This season, T-shirts come in plain styles, adorned with variations on the iconic Calvin Klein branding or with graphic prints, from urban scenes to abstract motifs. Bleached denim, colours such as lime green, and hooded sweaters featuring floral motifs offer summery options, while lightweight bomber jackets (€139.90) are great for layering up when out and about. grc globalblue.com
Calvin Klein Jeans, PC Hooftstraat 105, 1071 BR Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 681 0821, calvinklein.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 72
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SUMMER OF LOVE Inspired by the youthful, laid-back attitude of southern California, this season’s Tommy Hilfiger collection celebrates Americana. Denim, classic baseball jackets, the occasional fringing detail and cactus motif – all exude the quintessential Tommy spirit. Garments are based on the blue, red and white palette with which the brand is synonymous, with touches of pink and striking yellow making a strong summer-ready impact. Look out for the Tommy x Gigi capsule line, a collaboration with supermodel Gigi Hadid. rre Tommy Hilfiger, PC Hooftstraat 101, 1071 BR Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 675 6750, tommy.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 72
This season, Björn Borg’s menswear offering caters to every taste. Block colours in bright hues and vibrant prints, such as tropical palm tree motifs as seen in the pictured swim shorts (€49.95), are perfect for hitting the beach or pool. Alternatively, those who prefer something a little more understated can choose from styles in navy or black. Having started out as a sports apparel company in 1984, before venturing into underwear in 1989, Björn Borg continues to be defined by its sport-focused identity. grc Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 80
Björn Borg, Kalverstraat 7, 1012 NX Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 427 1208, bjornborg.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 71
PHOTO: (TOP) DAN AND CORINA LECCA
MAKE A SPLASH
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RIGHT AS RAIN Umbrella specialist Senz has launched its Global Playground collection for spring/summer 2017. The brand’s distinctive compact and original models are enhanced with three new themes based on different colourways and patterns. Playing Court takes its inspiration from retro running tracks and tennis courts with yellows and pinks, Sporty Blue combines various shades of the colour, while the African Red theme (pictured, €54.95) spans hues from brick red to coral. Founded in 2006, Senz set out to design a storm umbrella with an aerodynamic shape so that it glides through wind and won’t turn inside out in a sudden gust – an ideal accessory that will ensure you’re well prepared when exploring Holland. grc De Bijenkorf, Dam 1, 1012 JS Amsterdam, +31 (0)88 245 3333, senz.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 62
DUTCH DEBUT Dsquared2 has opened its first two stores in the Netherlands. Spread over two floors, the Rotterdam boutique is home to menswear, womenswear, accessories, fragrances, eyewear and underwear. The interior, designed by Milan-based studio Storage Associati, features steel cabinets, neon lights, exposed pillars, stained concrete floors and bare walls for a contemporary industrial feel, along with references to creative directors Dan and Dean Caten’s Canadian roots such as the red mapleleaf carpet on the first floor. If Rotterdam isn’t on your itinerary, head to the other new retail space: located on one of Amsterdam’s key shopping streets, PC Hooftstraat, it’s hard to miss. rre Dsquared2, Lijnbaan 50, 3012 EP Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 763 0003, dsquared2.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 76
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 80
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ON THE ROAD Inspired by travel, American Vintage’s spring/summer 2017 collection is designed with elegance, simplicity and versatility in mind. Cotton jumpers and oversized shirts give flowing silhouettes, neutral tones make way for a mix of pink and orange sunset shades, and stripes and floral prints add summery touches. Free-spirited and infused with the romance of road trips, this season’s American Vintage wardrobe has something to offer everyone. rre American Vintage, Van Baerlestraat 18, 1071 AW Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 662 2200, american-vintagestore.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 68
DOUBLE DELIGHT Founded in Amsterdam by Jason Denham in 2008, the Denham label focuses on balancing progressive ideas with a respect for the tradition and craftsmanship of jean-making. With this in mind, this season’s collaboration with up-andcoming Dutch clothing brand Daily Paper is a true showcase of contemporary design. Including men’s chambray shorts, a droptail shirt and graphic tee, the collection features prints and a twist on Daily Paper’s signature African shield motif that incorporates Denham’s scissor logo. The pictured kimono-style jacket (€279.95) is our favourite – an easy-to-wear statement piece that combines the aesthetics of both brands. rre Denham, Hobbemastraat 6-8, 1071 ZA Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 681 3524, denhamthejeanmaker.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 72
globalblue.com
True Brilliance The Dutch Golden Age of the 17th century saw Amsterdam established as a great international power, its trade, science, art and culture respected across the world. One industry in particular came to the fore during this time, and is still going strong in Amsterdam today: diamonds. Gemstones had been worked by skilled craftsmen in the 81
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city since the 16th century, and as the wealth of Amsterdam grew and grew, so did the international demand for these most precious of stones. Today, the Dutch capital remains one of the best places in the world to buy diamonds, its leading purveyors offering exemplary stones and jewellery in every style from classic to contemporary. Above: a striking bracelet from Coster Diamonds
PHOTO: ROYAL COSTER DIAMONDS
Amsterdam has long been one of the world’s most important destinations for diamonds. Hannah Lewis gets the lowdown on how to find the perfect stone
‘A diamond is the most precious and finest stone in the world. It keeps its value because it is very rare,’ explains Denis Wortelboer, director of travel-retail at Schaap en Citroen. His advice when it comes to buying is to ‘focus not only on the lovely diamond jewellery, but also on the quality of the diamond and the certificate. Pay attention to the
four Cs and find out the one C that suits you most.’ The four Cs – carat, colour, clarity and cut – are the cornerstones of the diamond industry. It is through these that every diamond is graded. As Wortelboer says, every individual will feel differently about which element is most important, and at an established diamond
expert such as Schaap en Citroen, there will be highly trained (and multilingual) staff on hand to guide clients to the stone that’s exactly right for them. Schaap en Citroen was created by the coming together of two established brands – Schaap, founded in 1888, and Citroen, which began life in 1827. Today the name is recognised across the world as a leading purveyor of fine watches and jewellery. As well as offering diamond jewellery from leading international names –
Pomellato, Chopard and Marco Bicego are just a few – the team also creates its own stunning range of handcrafted platinum diamond jewellery: SC 1888. ‘Besides being the trendsetter for the European market, we also follow trends globally,’ says Wortelboer of Schaap en Citroen’s expansive range of diamond jewellery. ‘Therefore we can provide the highest quality jewellery for all of our international clientele.’ Another leading expert is Zazare Diamonds, which offers a wide
Above (clockwise from top): a piece from Schaap en Citroen’s SC 1888 collection being created; polishers at work at Gassan Diamonds; Pomellato Nudo brown diamond pendant and ring
PHOTOS: (TOP & BOTTOM LEFT) COURTESY OF SCHAAP EN CITROEN JUWELIERS; (BOTTOM RIGHT) INKBVBA.COM
36 | F E AT U R E S
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) ROYAL COSTER DIAMONDS
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range of beautiful jewellery featuring these precious stones. Rings, earrings and pendants come in an array of both classic and more modern designs, with exquisite diamonds set in 18-carat white, rose or yellow gold. Guided tours – available in various languages – allow visitors to look behind the scenes and receive personalised jewellery advice. These can be booked individually or for couples or larger groups. The Gassan Diamonds headquarters is housed in an historic
building which was formerly a steam-powered diamond factory. Now far more modern, the space is still a centre of excellence, and home to Gassan’s expert team of craftsmen. Guided tours, which are available in 26 languages, allow visitors to discover everything they need to know before buying a diamond, from the significance of the four Cs to the secrets of transforming the rough diamonds into dazzling gems. Gassan has a number of boutiques across the city, where visitors can explore its range of elegant and feminine jewellery, designed to be fashion forward and luxurious yet perfect for every day. Coster Diamonds is known for its connection to some famous gems. The Koh-i-Noor, a blue-white diamond that is part of the famous crown jewels of Great Britain, was polished by Coster’s experts, as was the Dresden diamond, part of the crown jewels of Saxony. The company has longstanding links with royalty; today Coster continues to cut diamonds for the Dutch royal house. In 2007, Coster opened its
Above (from top): Gassan 121 diamond rings; a replica of the Queen Mother’s crown, part of Britain’s Crown Jewels, whose front cross is set with the Koh-i-Noor which was cut by Coster Diamonds
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diamond museum, where visitors will find exhibitions about the history of diamonds and of Royal Coster Diamonds, as well as a collection of outstanding and famous stones. The tour also offers a unique opportunity to see talented craftsmen at work, cutting and polishing to perfection, and there are even workshops where participants can be involved in making their own perfect piece of diamond jewellery. ‘We can show you all the secrets of diamonds and their history,’ says marketing and communications director Ronald Koster. This knowledge, he believes, is crucial to ensuring what he describes as the ‘fifth C’: confidence. ‘When you buy a diamond, have confidence in the place you buy it.’ At Coster, the timeless appeal of
the diamond means the design team can present a wide array of both classic and fashion-forward jewellery, all featuring these glittering stones. So why does Koster think diamonds have proved so eternally covetable? ‘They’re a symbol of eternity,’ he says. ‘We believe in the beauty of the stone. It’s a rare stone that you will have for ever.’
Above (from top): Coster’s diamond museum in Amsterdam; one of the brand’s diamond and sapphire rings
PHOTOS: ROYAL COSTER DIAMONDS
The Dutch capital is one of the best places in the world to buy diamonds, its leading purveyors offering stones and jewellery in every style from classic to contemporary
FORM AN D SU BSTANCE
PHOTO: THIJS WOLZAK
There’s much more to Dutch design than the sum of its parts. Emma Holmqvist Deacon takes a look at one of the most compelling creative scenes in the world If Scandinavian design is the definition of clean functionality, the Dutch counterpart could be described as its rebellious and free-spirited cousin. While 19th-century modernism and De Stijl pioneers such as HP Berlage, JJP Oud and Gerrit Rietveld continue to inspire, what many associate with Dutch design today actually emerged in the 1990s. ‘The movement developed as a reaction to the somewhat stagnant design scene of the time,’ says Cok de Rooy, owner of renowned Amsterdam store The Frozen 82
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Fountain. Piet Hein Eek and Hella Jongerius, both of whom are celebrated today, were part of this game-changing cluster of creatives. Eek brought something new by using alternative materials – making furniture out of scrap wood – and in doing so created a recognisable and much sought-after signature. Jongerius, meanwhile, fused industrial and craft elements in a way that hadn’t been seen before. Richard Hutten was another highly influential name. He made his mark with a series called No Sign of Design. Hutten’s Table Chair of Left: Droog’s must-visit Amsterdam store
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irreverent twist typical of the era. How would Droogs’s director Renny Ramakers and The Frozen Fountain’s de Rooy define the new generation of native designers? Both experts agree that it’s a different beast altogether. ‘In the past, a product was a product – this is no longer the case,’ notes Ramakers, and de Rooy points out that students and young designers use their work as a vehicle to solve problems that will affect their future. ‘Social design, involving solutions that will assist the environment, health or communication, is what concerns our young creatives,’ he says. This new breed of designer was out in force at the 2016 graduation show of Design Academy Eindhoven, one of the most influential schools in the world. Tamara Orjola’s Forest Wool furniture and carpets, made from processed pine needles harvested from timber-industry leftovers, are a good example of this zeitgeist.
PHOTO: (RIGHT) RUDD SPLINTER
1992 invited people to question what they were actually looking at – a chair or a table. ‘The nonconformist approach could almost be compared to the Memphis group,’ observes de Rooy, referring to the Italian pop art-inspired design movement established by Ettore Sottsass in the early 1980s. Conceptual design company Droog is another cornerstone of Holland’s design heritage, as is its must-visit Amsterdam store. It stocks iconic products, such as the Milkbottle Lamp of 1991, which have an
Above (clockwise from top left): Richard Hutten’s iconic Table Chair; Droog store in Amsterdam; Dirk Vander Kooij’s Endless Chair design
T I M B ER L A N D.C O M
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Established players such as Droog are changing their ways, too. ‘Over the past two years, we’ve focused on work that makes positive changes in the city,’ explains Ramakers. ‘Our approach is anti-disciplinary and our projects can materialise in anything that contributes to society and quality of life.’ One of these schemes involves turning a dark and threatening pedestrian underpass into a welcoming and cosy arcade studded with coffee stalls and ice-cream vendors. Aside from taking a moral stance, with sustainability at its core, the designers of Holland also have hi-tech prowess. Joris Laarman and Dirk Vander Kooij’s 3D-printing techniques are making waves internationally. Zaandam-based Vander Kooij is best known for transforming a Chinese industrial robot into a 3D printer, which assists him in creating pieces such as lamps, vases and his Endless Chair, made
In the past few decades, Dutch design may have evolved to become more about purpose than tangible form, but there’s certainly no shortage of suitcase-friendly objects to buy Above (from top): Tamara Orjola’s Forest Wool furniture; Dirk Vander Kooij with his Endless robot
PHOTO: (RIGHT) GERARD VAN HEES
S H O P | 45
from strings of old refrigerator plastic. ‘I’ve always been fascinated with recycled synthetics, and I wanted to change the general perception that it produces only cheap and breakable products,’ says Vander Kooij. ‘With the help of our robot, I’ve created objects – layer by layer – one wouldn’t expect to be made of plastic.’ Robot number two has now joined the family, while a gigantic press is used to take care of the waste produced by the studio. ‘We feed the press chairs we’re not happy with and it turns them into chunky tables,’ says Vander Kooij. Dutch design may have evolved
to become more about purpose than tangible form, but there’s no shortage of suitcase-friendly objects to buy. You’ll find Eek’s ceramic jugs and Jongerius’s pots at The Frozen Fountain, for instance, while Ramakers personally recommends Droog’s Strap storage solution from her store, made from traditional bicycle carriers. She also tells us that there are still a few examples of Chest of Drawers, created in partnership with Tejo Remy in 1991, available to buy – the rest are housed in museums across the world as a celebration of a major chapter in global design history
Above (clockwise from top left): detail of Dirk Vander Kooij’s Endless Chair design; Milkbottle Lamp for Droog by Tejo Remy; jugs by Piet Hein Eek, available at The Frozen Fountain
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TABLE TALK
When respect for ingredients is taken as seriously as the cooking of them, deep, honest flavours shine in every dish that leaves the kitchen. Dutch cuisine is traditionally simple, featuring dishes made from vegetables and a little meat, cooked and presented in an uncomplicated fashion. In this kind of food, every ingredient matters, so it’s no surprise that the growing worldwide concern with the quality and provenance of our food is particularly popular in the nation’s capital. The farm-to-table concept, a movement promoting the use of locally sourced foods direct from producers, has been embraced by a number of Amsterdam’s leading restaurants. The menus at these venues are based on a simple philosophy: food tastes best when it’s made from local, seasonal ingredients, some of them even grown by the restaurant teams. Don’t miss your chance to taste all the freshness that nature can offer. globalblue.com
PHOTO: MÓNICA R. GOYA
Amsterdam’s farm-totable restaurants have much to offer, as Mónica R Goya discovers
DE KAS When Gert-Jan Hageman left his job at Vermeer restaurant two years after having achieved a Michelin star, little did he know that he would swap the kitchen for the field, that he would rescue a 1926 nursery from being demolished or, more importantly, that he would establish at the latter one of the best-loved restaurants in Amsterdam. With the help of his wife Jolinde, Hageman’s vision became a reality at De Kas. The restaurant, which features ceilings eight metres high and striking glass walls, offers a fixed menu that hinges on the vegetables and herbs grown locally in its greenhouses and farmland. Today Hageman, who has seen his concept copied all around the world, is still De Kas’s head grower. De Kas, Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3, 1097 DE Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 462 4562, restaurantdekas.nl
AS
WILDE ZWIJNEN
Founded by Sander Overeinder, who trained at seasonal and freshfood hotspot Chez Panisse in California, As prides itself on offering what it calls ‘pure cooking’. The reasonably priced menu is shaped by nature and usually comprises salads as well as fish and meat options, always served with delicious vegetables. The bread, baked on the premises, is remarkable, as is the wine list. On Sundays the restaurant offers a special à la carte menu that includes pizza and pasta. The restaurant is located in a former chapel built in the 1960s close to Beatrixpark. The cosy interior, which offers individual as well as communal tables, was conceived by talented design studio Müller van Tol. As, Prinses Irenestraat 19, 1077 WT Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 644 0100, restaurantas.nl
Wilde Zwijnen, whose name means ‘wild boar’ in English, is located in the eastern part of Amsterdam. The minimalist and industrial décor adds charm to this neighbourhood favourite. Make a reservation and you will find your name written on the wooden table with chalk. Placing an emphasis on the freshest seasonal and local ingredients, Wilde Zwijnen offers a three-course menu inspired by Dutch cuisine, the details of which are only unveiled when the food arrives at table. For those who don’t like culinary surprises, there is also a short à la carte menu. The bar next door, Eetbar, is run by the same team; pop in to sample small plates featuring Dutch classics. Wilde Zwijnen, Javaplein 23, 1095 CJ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 463 3043, wildezwijnen.com
globalblue.com
PHOTOS: MÓNICA R. GOYA
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RIJKS
PHOTO: COURTESY OF RIJKS
The Rijksmuseum’s in-house restaurant focuses on the finest Dutch produce and the uncommon, exotic flavours that have influenced the country’s cuisine over the centuries. The restaurant features stylish interiors by Paul Linse, while the menu echoes Slow Food principles, incorporating ingredients from the Ark of Taste, a catalogue of endangered heritage foods. The preference of executive chef Joris Bijdendijk
and his team for organic, locally sourced produce shines through on the menu, which feels like an open invitation to discover the Netherlands. As Wim Pijbes, former Rijksmuseum general director, put it, ‘Rijks is the Rijksmuseum on your plate.’ Rijks, Museumplein 2, 1070 DN Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 674 7555, rijksrestaurant.nl
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PERFECT DAY: ROTTERDAM A dynamic city with an ever-changing skyline and a fearless approach to reinvention, Rotterdam is an ideal day-trip destination. This famous port town offers a wealth of shops, cultural attractions, festivals, restaurants and parks. SHOP spends a day exploring Rotterdam’s inspiring stores – and tucking into gourmet treats from the Markthal.
DR MARTENS Last year Dr Martens opened a new store in Rotterdam, its third in the country. In line with the British footwear brand’s identity, the space is characterised by an industrial feel combined with details that reinforce Dr Martens’ ties to the music industry. Visitors will find the full collection in store.
Marie-Stella-Maris’s product range spans mineral water, natural body and skincare products and home fragrances. No 31 Facial Oil (€44) is rich in lavender extracts which hydrate and calm the skin. The Amsterdam-based brand’s products make you feel good and also help you do good – for every purchase, Marie-Stella-Maris donates to projects that provide clean water to those in need.
globalblue.com
PHOTO: (TOP) MARK BOLK
MARIE-STELLA-MARIS
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MARKTHAL
PHOTO: (TOP) © DARIA SCAGLIOLA & STIJN BRAKKEE
Opened in late 2014, Markthal prides itself on being the first covered market in the Netherlands, and is well worth a visit. Under the impressively modern arched roof, you’ll find a tantalising mix of food stalls selling fruit and vegetables, dairy products, meat and seasonal items as well as florists, bars and restaurants. Open seven days a week, Markthal is a true feast for the senses.
TOK10
DIRECTORY
A new store called Tok10 opened in the centre of Rotterdam late last year. As the name suggests, the store takes its inspiration from Tokyo and stocks an impressive mix of luxury Japanese fashion and streetwear brands such as Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3 and Visvim, not to mention Dutch labels such as Olaf Hussein.
Dr Martens, Lijnbaan 65, 3012 EL Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 763 2698, drmartens.com Twice As Nice, Admiraliteitskade 91A, 3063 EH Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 413 1320, marie-stella-maris.com Markthal, Dominee Jan Scharpstraat 298, 3011 GZ Rotterdam, +31 (0)30 234 6464, markthal.nl Tok10, Van Oldenbarneveltstraat 135A, 3012 GT Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 223 8552, t0k10.com FOR M AP GO TO PAGE 76
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PERFECT DAY: THE HAGUE The Hague combines all the amenities of an international metropolis with the charm of a seaside resort town. Home to the Dutch government and the royal family, the city offers an array of attractions, ranging from quirky dining venues to cool fashion boutiques. SHOP spends a day exploring a selection of The Hague’s must-see sights.
HOFTRAMMM
ELEPHANT AND CASTLE
Hoftrammm offers a unique dining experience aboard one of The Hague’s trams, which has been converted into a one-of-akind restaurant. Enjoy a stellar four-course menu by one of Holland’s renowned chefs, Pierre Wind, while on the move. At a little over two hours long, the journey will take you through the picturesque streets of The Hague past some of its most famous sights.
Conveniently located in the centre of The Hague, Elephant and Castle is guaranteed to delight antique lovers. The store is the ideal place to pick up standout pieces, from antique furniture to smaller items such as vases, mirrors, clocks and ornaments. With its eclectic but impeccably selected mix, Elephant and Castle is a true treasure chest that is sure to inspire.
globalblue.com
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SAM FRIDAY Don’t miss the Sam Friday store in the De Passage shopping arcade. Its design features reflect the brand’s modern character, and its warm atmosphere will encourage you to browse the fashion-forward lingerie and underwear for which the brand is known, as well as its swimwear, sleepwear and loungewear.
DIRECTORY Hoftrammm, Stationsplein 8, 2515 BT The Hague, hoftrammm.nl
WEEKDAY Last year Weekday opened an appealing new store in The Hague, which is the perfect place to discover the Swedish fashion brand’s spring/summer 2017 collection. Inspired by the images of photographer Jackie Nickerson, the collection features trompe l’oeil prints on trousers and dresses, silk mesh bomber jackets and the brand’s covetable new line of sustainable swimwear.
Elephant and Castle, Mauritskade 91, 2514 HH The Hague, +31 (0)70 346 1981, elephantandcastle.nl Weekday, Venestraat 29, 2511 AR The Hague, +31 (0)70 310 7029, weekday.com Sam Friday, Passage 32, 2511 AD The Hague, +31 (0)70 737 0456, samfriday.com
SH O P SU RVEY SHOP, the world’s leading travel and shopping guide, wants to learn more about you, our readers. SHOP, the definitive guide to global shopping, publishes over three million magazines covering over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.
Our unique expertise allows us to offer extensive knowledge on key trends, products, brands and boutiques, as well as important information on how to save money by shopping tax free. In addition, SHOP provides restaurant and hotel reviews and interviews with elite fashion designers as well as maps of key shopping areas and information on partner retailer locations. With all this and more, SHOP is the essential international shopping companion.
We value your opinion and would love to hear more about your favourite shopping destinations, your travelling habits and how you plan your shopping trips. To tell us more about yourself, and have the chance to win an iPad Pro, visit globalblue.com/survey or scan the QR code. • Russian and Chinese versions available.
G U I D E | 55
GUIDE
PHOTO: MÓNICA R. GOYA
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Holland with a look at the country’s must-visit destinations, from a much-loved jewellery boutique to a store selling a fashion-pack favourite. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/holland.
Above: windmills such as Molen de Adriaan, not far from Amsterdam, are a distinctive feature of the Dutch landscape
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SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY
PHOTOS: KIRSTY WELSH
‘Known for picturesque canals, cobbled streets and blooming flowers, Amsterdam in spring is a must-see’ – Kirsty Welsh, SHOP’s online managing editor
globalblue.com
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Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopcontent. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!
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ZOE KARSSEN Worn by a number of leading celebrities, from Kate Moss to Beyoncé, Zoe Karssen is one of Amsterdam’s best-loved exports. Instantly recognisable for its tongue-in-cheek T-shirts and sweatshirts featuring prints and slogans that reference pop culture and rock ’n’ roll in equal measure, it’s hard to believe that the brand isn’t even a decade old. Started in 2010 by Zoe and Quince Karssen, the label has become the go-to place for easy separates and a relaxed weekend uniform. Zoe Karssen, Reestraat 9, 1016 DM Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 223 1244, zoekarssen.com
PANDORA For spring/summer 2017, Pandora has created jewellery that is perfectly in tune with the season and brimming with vitality. The brand’s offering features delicate floral designs such as the Magnolia Bloom ring, while other pieces pop with colour: the Hearts of Pandora bangles and rings are decorated with cut-out hearts and are available in a number of different shades that can be stacked for a sparkling rainbow effect.
Pandora at De Bijenkorf, Wagenstraat 32, 2152 AX The Hague, +31 (0)88 015 6505, pandora.net FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 77
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C&A Amsterdam, Damrak70. Open 7 days a week. More than an 130 stores in the Netherlands. c-a.com
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SCOTCH & SODA
embroidered bombers and metallic trousers for a sleek new take on tailoring. Elsewhere, embroidered waistcoats offer texture and a cowgirl edge to jeans and shirt combos. Hats and statement bags provide the finishing touches to your new wardrobe. Scotch & Soda, Huidenstraat 3-5, 1016 ER Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 788 3230, scotch-soda.com
Inspired by the beauty of nature in all its forms, Scotch & Soda’s spring/summer 2017 collection offers abundant floral prints, rich jungle-inspired tones and plenty of layers for every possible type of weather. Pair its floral and leopard-print blouse and culottes for a bold effect or select
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● CAMERA WAREHOUSE
PER N AM ● C T U IN E E ●D N D P LAN R E ●K IM B RS OP ● T ECH E SH Y K ● S E BOD ● NS TH E S A T ● ● S H R OE AC MA SH MOND ERS ● S OT S DR NEAK ER ● D IA O L S ÖL ● ● B UTER M S E N E NK VA D ● ● R V I ’S HU L E N F IE O ● ● L LY MA ANG NE N M ● O DA F O R BY r n e r O E E ÄT E H ● V P R IT C o O N K I ●● STR e e ES M Y D IA ff ● R U o D rC ER RT ● CL A e P y ● U e S SP O TO ● tm A T IE Ou AK MOR EP ● NY EST TO S ID &M AN ●H D ●& IK E M IT AN ●N TS RT BR NS AR BA M YLY P P E P E R ● ●B KER IP IC S ● H AK C T ● S ●B ME LUB ● S CO IL RC O G AT H E F O S S S ● E CE EL P IE & M ● ● TH H LD N F IE E OX ● MA G Y● KER EN ● BA R IC E E R T O V H ●● L KA AT C S W O D AY R ● ● CE AT R IC S P E N E N O S R ● E X AM KS & ZA SING BA R EL MA B IG T ELF L D NCE ● YA R O P E R IE EX GWK
RO
KIN
KA
E LV
RS
TR
T AA
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Café
Featured In This Issue
Restaurant
H L IS E NG STO R WE NE BOOK ●
Beauty and more … Visit u in many cisties! WE WILL BE PLEASED TO WELCOME YOU TO THE DOUGLAS WORLD OF BEAUTY: Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories. With 1,700 perfumeries in 19 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.
Douglas is established in more than 90 cities in the Netherlands. For addresses see: www.douglas.nl
68 | G U I D E
Van Baerlestraat VONDELPARKBRUG
Vondelpark
V O S S I U S S T R A AT
R A AT
RIVIERA MAISON ● RIZE ● LUMAS ● PANARA ● HÄSTENS ● PIASTRELLE ● TEUFEL ●
P.33
VA N B A ERL ESTRAAT
VO S SI U S S T
ZANDPAD
AMERICAN VINTAGE ●
● TONI & GUY ● THE PHONE HOUSE ● KPN ● STEINBERG ● AZZURRO
PIETER CORNELISZ HOOFTSTRAAT ● MASSIMO DUTTI
SOCIETY SHOP ● REFLECTION ●
● PETIT BATEAU ● MAESTRO DUE
OOGAPPEL ●
VA N E EGH EN L A A N
● SIMON MEIJSSEN
SANDWICH ●
FRED DE LA BRETONIERE ●
VAN EEGHENSTRAAT
PEARLE OPTICIENS ●
VAN DE VEL D ESTR A AT
HARBOUR TAILORS ●
VAN BAERLESTRAAT
VANILIA ●
● ZARA HOME
JAN LUIJKENSTRAAT
PURDEY ●
Bagels & Beans
THE PEOPLE OF THE LABYRINTHS ●
Conservatorium Hotel
ACE & DIK ● PAUW ● ● SUITSUPPLY
LINHARD ●
PAU LU S P OT T ER ST R A AT
WILLEMSPAR KWEG
● SUITSUPPLY
PAULUS POTTER STRAAT
Small Talk Coffee Corner
THE STEDELIJK MUSEUM
VA N B AERLESTRAAT
KORT SHOES ● ARKE ● ABN AMRO● GAASTRA ● PAUL NOYEN ● PAUW ● VILLEROY & BOCH ● PAUW ● VAN BREESTRAAT TWENTY ONE BY MCGREGOR ● VAN GILLS ● IITTALA ● BOEKHANDEL ROBERT PREMSELA ● GANT WOMAN ● NEW FYSIC ● DAVIDOFF OF GENEVA ● GANT MAN ● PAUW MANNEN ● BROEKMANS & VAN POPPEL ●
Brasserie Keyzer
SELECTED STORES IN THE CONSERVATORIUM HOTEL: Bonebakker Culti La Casa Del Habano Skins Cosmetics
Museumplein
JAN WILLEM BROUWERSSTRAAT HET CONCERTGEBOUW ●
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Hotel
Place Of Interest
Featured In This Issue
Café
Restaurant
ULTRA SOFT IMPOSSIBLY DRY
70 | G U I D E
The Nine Streets/De Negen Straatjes
S T R A AT
R A A D H UIS
PROJECT AMS ●
A PRESENT ● WAXWELL RECORDS ●
SI N G EL WAXWELL IT'S RECORD ●
ANTONIA BY YVETTE ●
H EREN GRACHT SUMMUM ● SIR MAX ● TIKAL ● FLIP*FLOP ● KARL LAGERFELD ● THE GAMEKEEPER ● CARHARTT ● DANIELE ALESSANDRINI ● MC LENNAN'S PURE SILK ● LOCKSTOCK & BARREL ● BLGK EDELSMEDEN ● VAREKAMP ● DE MAAGD & DE LEEUWE ● MIAUW ●
LITERATUR VAN VER EVANAAR ● MARGARETH M. ● CAR2GO ● ACNE ● P.S. AKA DEPOT DELUXE ● MAISON RIKA ●
HERENGRACHT
● SINGEL OPTIEK ● SAS DESIGN ● MAUVE ● NIC NIC ● NATIONAL BRILLEN MUSUEM ● TKLYLTJE ● MECHICAS ● KALPA/DE BOER ● BY FABRIO
LOMOGRAPHY ●
Café Wheels
LEE ●
FILIPPA K ●
BRIX ●
SCOTCH SHRUNK ●
SECOND BEST ●
Bar 22
REBEL CHIC ● PARISIENNE ●
Coffee Company
Restaurant Struisvogel
KEIZERSGRACHT
● PARWAN ● HESTER VAN EEGHAN ● ML COLLECTIONS ● FAB ● RABEANCO ● MARC O’POLO ● M-E-K ● EXOTA ● TIMBERLAND ● KAGETSU ● KLEIKOLLEKTIEF ● COS ● FRED PERRY ● DR WONEN ● PURNA ● SUSPENDERS ● BLOSHAAR ● HESTER VAN EEGHAN ● PINA
Tin Pan Alley
THAI FUSION ●
Restaurant Zurantje
FASHION FLAIRS ●
Pancakes!
KOOKAÏ ● BOEKIE WOEKIE ● MARLIES DEKKERS ● DE 9 HEREN ● POP-UP STORE! ● PRETTY RINGS ● TOOS & B ROOS ●
PR INSENGR ACHT
● DE WELDAAD ● AMSTERDAM WATCH COMPANY ● FIFTIES SIXTIES
Koffeehuis De Hoek
● NOOCH ● CHUCK PALU HOME ● RED WING SHOES ● GALERIE LUGHIEN ● HARTENKAAS ● TERRA ● KOKO VAN KNABEL ● TABAK
SING EL ● PORTONOVO ● L'ETOILE DE SAINT HONORE ● SHOEDICTION ● ROERNDE ZAKEN RARITEITEN EMAILLE.NL ● RAYMOND ● KOAN FLOAT TECHNOLOGIES GERRITZEN ● ● RIKA NOA LIFESTYLE ● ● SIMONE
HEREN GR ACHT
FLOOR STUDIOS ● MY 7 WAYS ● LES GALERIES NEUF ● DENHAM ● BY FABRIO ● DENHAM CORNER ●
Café De Doffer
LOCAL SERVICE (MEN’S) ● MOKU ● THE DARLING ● MENSOCKS ● MOSCOW ● VELOUR ● GERDA’S ●
KEIZERSGRACHT
● KALDI WE ARE LABELS ● CARLA PALERMO ● ● LE SOUK BEADIES AMSTERDAM ● ● LAURA DOLS SAM FRIDAY ● ● KO Pompadour Café ● VITTORIO MARCHESI ACE & TATE ● ● GALERIE DE SALON VELOUR ● GOODS ● ● CLOSED BY FABRIO ● ● REPLAY DJOEKE WESSING ● ● CHASIN’ SPIEGEL BEEJD ● JOZ ● ● SAMSØE & SAMSØE SAM FRIDAY ● ● SAPORO TONY COHEN ● LOULOU ● SUPERTRASH ● MARIE-STELLA-MA RIS ●
Bar Outbijit
● HAR BARBAAR
Café Nielsen
● EPISODE ● DE PINGUIN ● STOUT ● MENDO ● SCOTCH & SODA
● KUNST HAAR ● JOZ ● SMAAK ● GLAS-IN-LOOD
HERENGRACHT
● LEF ● HOOFF HOOFF ● ITALIAN GLAMOUR ● ROZA ● LOULOU
Café Des Pels
● SCOTCH & SODA ● ZIPPER ● IL VAGABONDO ● RUM ● LIEBESKIND BERLIN ● GEM KINGDOM ● RAIN ● RELAXED AT HOME ● JOLENE JOLINK ● JOJO
KEIZERSGRACHT
● VAN RAVENSTEIN
P R INSENGRACH T
● LOCAL SERVICE (WOMEN’S) ● WOK & ZO ● HAMKO ● DE WITTE TRANDENWINKEL ● DA KAASKAMER ● VANILIA ● SKINS COSMETICS P.28 ● LUST ● TOMS ● DENHAM BAR ● DENHAM ● VANS ● DE WIJN WINKEL ● BAKKERY PAUL ANÉE ● MINT MINI MAN ● BEAUREGARD ● FANOUS
Bar
Café
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Global Blue Retailer
KEIZERSGRACHT GALERIE GALUK ● DANIELE ALESSANDRINI ● WTG ● SUPER ● JUFFROUW JANSEN ●
Bussia
MISS JONES ●
Restaurant
OUDE SPIEGELSTRAAT
WOLVENSTRAAT
BERENSTRAAT
GASTHUISMOLENSTEEG HARTENSTRAAT
REESTRAAT
WIJDE HEISTEEG
HUIDENSTRAAT
RUNSTRAAT
● WON HUNDRED GALLERIA D’ARTE ● RINASCIMENTO
S H O P | 71
HARD ROCK CAFÉ The first Hard Rock Café opened in London in 1971, but it was 17 years before the brand began selling its now iconic merchandise to the general public. The Hard Rock logo can now be found emblazoned across T-shirts, keyrings, pins, baseball caps and even leather jackets, and these keepsakes have quickly become collector’s items, with fans stopping in Hard Rocks across the world to add to their collection. Look out for limited-edition items including the Signature Series T-shirts or Hard Rock Barbie at the Amsterdam outpost.
Hard Rock Café, Max Euweplein 57-61, 1017 MA Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 523 7625, hardrock.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 58
Kalverstraat North DA M Peek & Cloppenburg ● TRÉSOR
DESIGUAL ● HOLLAND AND BARRETT ● STEVE MADDEN ● PIMKIE ●
SACHA ● RIVER ISLAND ●
● VILA ● MANGO
ICI PARIS XL ●
● JAMIN
SCORE ●
● BLOKKER
Department Store
● MCDONALDS
● SIDESTEP FOOTWEAR
ER ST
● CITY DIAMONDS ● SUPERSTAR RALPH LAUREN ● DENIM & SUPPLY ● SIX ● BIJOU BRIGITTE
K A LV
ZARA ●
R A AT
TOPSHOP ●
DIDI ●
● KIKO
● URBAN OUTFITTERS
OBEY YOUR BODY ●
GEOX ●
● FOREVER 21 ● PULL & BEAR ● PIECES
BAZAR ●
P.30
● POP CULT
● MANFIELD
CHASIN’ ●
STRADIVARIUS ●
● BJÖRN BORG
Featured In This Issue
DA M
NES
THE STING ●
ROKIN
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K A LV E R S T R A AT
RA
N IE U W E Z IJ D S V O O R B U R G WA L
P
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72 | G U I D E
● BUHJAH
● DENHAM
Momo
● PC BAGS ROMEO ● VETRO
● QUESTO
P.33
PC Hooftstraat ● KARMALOOG ● NATAN MAJE ● ● SANDRO
RIJKSMUSEUM
G-STAR RAW ●
HOBBEMAS TR AAT
AATKWEG WILLEMSPAR HOBBEMASTR KIEHL’S ● OROGOLD ●
PROFUOMO ● KAAKS SOUVENIRS ●
● SUPERTRASH ● SOUVENIRS33.COM ● TRU TRUSSARDI ● STONE ISLAND
SCHAAP EN CITROEN ●
DIAMOND MUSEUM AMSTERDAM
● MEYER
TASCHEN ●
● RIMOWA
MULBERRY ●
● CHOPARD ● LA PERLA ● MONTBLANC
● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● PRADA
HONTHORSTSTRAAT HOUSE OF BOLS ●
● LOUIS VUITTON ● LONGCHAMP
JAN LUIJKENST R AAT
JIMMY CHOO ● BALLY ● CHANEL ● CORNELIANI ● TOURBILLON ● TOD'S ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● SHOEBALOO ● GUESS BY MARCIANO ● GASSAN ●
● KAREN MILLEN ● BULGARI
● OGER ● WOLFORD ● PHILIPP PLEIN
EMPORIO ARMANI ● AZZURRO ●
● ● ● ● ●
Café PC
RALPH LAUREN OGER DONNA LIU-JO HERMÈS BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
VAN GOGH MUSEUM
VAN DE VELDESTRAAT
● TOMMY HILFIGER ● CALVIN KLEIN
P.30
P.29
PAU LU S P OT T ER ST R AAT
PC HOOFTSTRAAT
VO S SIU S S T R A AT
TIFFANY & CO. ● MONCLER ● ANNE FONTAINE ● CHANEL ● AGENT PROVACATEUR ● DIOR ● JAEGER-LECOULTRE ● THE KOOPLES ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● LORENZO FUENTE ● PHILLIP PLEIN ● MAX MARA ● CHURCH’S ● MCGREGOR ● P.C. HOOFT CLINIC ● HUGO BOSS ● AZZURRO KIDS ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● MARC CAIN ● NESPRESSO ● CLAUDIA STRÄTER ● CARTIER ● PAUL SMITH ● AZZURRO DUE ●
PAU LU S P OT T ER STRA AT
PC HO OFTSTRAAT
VOSSIUSST RA AT
● IWC / SCHAAP EN CITROEN
BURBERRY ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● IKKS MEN & WOMAN ● GUCCI ●
ICE AMSTERDAM
● ESCADA
LACOSTE ●
P.29
WATCH CITY COSTER DIAMONDS
● TESLA CARS
GIMMICKS ● WOOLRICH ● BOGGI ●
● DOUGLAS ● MICHAEL KORS ● CAROLINA BLISS ● MARINA RINALDI ● HACKETT ● DIESEL BLACK GOLD ● ICI PARIS XL ● HILFIGER DENIM ● FOUR BY AZZURRO
STEDELIJK MUSEUM
● FILIPPA K
VAN BAERLESTRAAT
VAN BAERLESTRAAT
Vondelpark
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Place Of Interest
Café
Restaurant
Featured In This Issue
COME VISIT OUR AMSTERDAM STORES
PC HOOFTSTRAAT 26-28 LEIDSESTRAAT 11 - ROKIN 112 OR SHOP AT G-STAR.COM
74 | G U I D E
Leidsestraat
SINGEL
● ACE & SPYER
P.18
● MICHAL NEGRIN ● SHOEBALOO
GSUS IGSUS INDUSTRIES ● FROCELLA ●
P.98
● FRONTRUNNER ● KINGS SQUARE ● OCCHIALI OPTICIENS
Johannes
H E R EN
GR AC H
T
H ER EN
G R AC H
T
● HUGO BOSS ECCO ● ● ADIDAS ● SUPERTRASH ● G-STAR WOMEN ● KAREN MILLEN ● RITUALS
LEVI’S ● INVOTIS ● LUSH ● PAUW ● COS ● JUST BRANDS ● SOUVENIRS ● JULIETTE POUR ROMEO ● MICHAEL KORS ●
S G R AC
HT
BOOTS MANFIELD CHEESE & MORE BY HENRI WILLIG HOLLAND AND BARRETT
● ● ● ●
HARTMAN CIGARS ● KE RK ST RA
AT
TED BAKER ●
LEIDSESTRAAT
K EIZ ER
ABERCROMBIE & FITCH ●
DANIELE DENTIA ● BUGABOO ●
YOUNG DESIGNERS ● UNITED
GOODS ● CORA KEMPERMAN ● POUR VOUS ● SUNGLASS HUT ● TOURS & TICKETS ●
PRINSENGR
Global Blue Retailer
PALLADIUM ASPACT HUNKEMOLLER ASPAC ONITSUKA TIGER HT SACHA S G R AC K EI Z ER
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
HANRO MAG BAG CHASIN’ PAUL WARMER BRANDY LOVES MELVILLE AAIKO POP CULT SOUVENIRS PANDORA FILIPPA K TIMBERLAND CAMPER
● BOTTICELLI LIMITED ● NEW ZEALAND AUCKLAND ● PYLONES ● ICI PARIS XL ● SOUVENIRSHOP DE AMSTERDAMMER ● IKKS WOMEN ● MAC
P R IN SE N GR
AC H T
CYNTHIA ●
Featured In This Issue
● ● ● ● ● ●
● THE BODY SHOP
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Restaurant
AC H T
76 | G U I D E
ROTTERDAM MOLENWATER WEG
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Admiraliteit
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P.51
D OU
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● TOK10
LDE
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Tourist Information
WE
STB
LAA
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NEW YORK BARBERSHOP
Restaurant
Department Store
S H O P | 77
THE HAGUE FR ED ER
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Café
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Featured In This Issue
AT
78 | G U I D E
DAY TRIP DESIGNER OUTLET ROERMOND Discover all your favourite brands at Designer Outlet Roermond, in a picturesque location next to the centre of Roermond, where more than 200 boutiques offer year-round savings of up to 70% off the recommended retail price. Take your pick from Coach, Furla, Versace and
many more, plus tempting cafĂŠs and restaurants, making it the perfect shopping destination. Designer Outlet Roermond, Stadsweide 2, 6041 TD Roermond, +31 (0)475 351777, designeroutletroermond.com
AM ST E R DAM AMSTERDAM CENTRAAL STATION E35
OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm Saturday-Sunday: 9am-8pm
E25
ROERMOND A2
Designer Outlet Roermond ROERMOND STATION
HOW TO GET THERE By car From Maastricht take the A73 to exit 19 for Roermond. Follow the signs to Roermond and then to the Designer Outlet. From Eindhoven take the Dutch A2 to exit 40 for Roermond. Follow the signs to Roermond (N280) and then to the Designer Outlet.
Train Station
Outlet
By train Designer Outlet Roermond is two hours by direct train from Amsterdam Centraal station, with departures every 30 minutes. When you leave the station, cross Stationsplein and follow the signs to Designer Outlet Roermond; the walk takes 15 minutes. For train times and ticket prices, please visit ns.nl.
S H O P | 79
BATAVIA STAD FASHION OUTLET Batavia Stad Fashion Outlet offers over 100 boutiques with discounts of up to 70%, as well as relaxed cafés and superb restaurants. Batavia Stad Fashion Outlet, Bataviaplein 60, 8242 PN Lelystad, +31 (0)320 292900, bataviastad.nl
LELYSTAD CENTRUM STATION Batavia Stad Fashion Outlet
L E LY S TA D
A6
AMSTERDAM CENTRAAL STATION
A6
A6
OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-6pm Saturday-Sunday: 10am-8pm
HOW TO GET THERE By car From Amsterdam, take the Lelystad-Noord exit on the A6 highway and follow the Batavia Stad signs. By train From Amsterdam Centraal station, take the train to Lelystad. From here, Batavia Stad is a short distance on bus number 3 or by taxi.
By shuttle bus Take the daily shopping shuttle from the official bus drop-off point in front of Park Plaza Victoria Amsterdam. It leaves Amsterdam at 10am, returning from Batavia Stad at 4pm. Tickets cost €15 for adults and €7.50 for children under 12 years.
80
WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop
2. Claim
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.
Spend a minimum of €50 and save up to 16% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
Refund Office Details
Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111
Amsterdam Schiphol Airport Landside 1. Terminal 3 Entrance B next to customs Open: 7am-8.30pm Airside 2. Terminal 3 Departure Hall 3 – next to customs and close to passport control Open: 7am-8.30pm
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TRANSLATIONS 美文翻译
34: True Brilliance 至真光芒
阿姆斯 特 丹素来 是 全 世界最 重要 的 钻石购 买地 之一。Hannah Lewis带 您寻觅完 美 宝石 在 17世 纪 — — 荷兰 的 黄金 时代,阿 姆斯 特 丹 一 跃 成 为 一座 繁 荣 的国际 大 都 市,其 在贸易、科 学、艺 术 和 文 化领 域 的辉 煌 成 在世界 各地备 受尊 重。有一 个行业 的发 展 在 此 期 间尤 其 突出,至今在 阿姆斯 特 丹 依然欣 欣向 荣 — — 那 便 是 钻石业。自16世 纪 以 来,这 里 的熟 练 工 匠便 开始加 工 宝 石。随着城 市 财 富 的不 断 增 长,这 些 珍 贵宝石的国际 需 求也 不 断 升温。如 今,荷兰首 都 依然是世界上 最 好 的钻 石购 买地 之一,有一 流供 应商为 您 奉 上 品质卓 绝 的奇石与珠 宝,覆 盖 从古 典到 现代 的每 一 种风 格。 “钻石是世界上 最 珍 贵、最 精 美 的石头。它十分稀有,因而能 够 保 值。”Schaap en Citroen酒店 的 旅行
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零售主管 Denis Wortelboer解 释 道。 他 的选购建 议 是:“不 仅 选 择 时尚的 款 样,而且 还 要关注 钻石的品质 和 证 书。要 注 意四个 C,并 找出最 适合你 的那 个 C。” 这 四个 C — —克 拉(carat)、颜 色(colour)、清 晰度(clarity)和 切 割 (cut)— — 是 钻石行业 的基 石。正 是 通 过 它们,每 颗 钻石才 得以分 级。正 如 Wortelboer所言,每 个人心目中最 重要 的那 个 C都 不尽 相 同。在 Schaap en Citroen等 知名专业钻石供 应商这 里,会有训 练 有素(且多语 种)的工 作人员 提 供 服务,帮助 顾客 寻 找 最 适 合他们 的那 颗 灵石。 Schaap en Citroen是由两家 驰 名品牌 合并而来 — —成 立于 1888 年 的 Schaap,以及诞 生于 1827年 的 雪铁 龙(Citroen)。如 今,该品牌已 被 全 世界 公 认 为 领 先行业 的高级 腕 表 及 珠 宝供 应商。除了波 米 雷 特 ( Pomellato)、萧 邦(Chopard)和 Marco Bicego等国际大 牌 的钻石 珠 宝,该 珠 宝商还 推 出了手工制 造 的自 有品牌铂 金 钻石 首饰:惊 艳 无 比的 SC 1888系列。Schaap en Citroen
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的钻石 首饰系列品类 齐 全,引领 潮 流。“我们 不 仅做 欧 洲 市 场 的领 跑 者,也会紧跟 全 球 趋势,”Wortelboer 继 续 说 道, “从而 确 保为 我们 所有 的 国际顾客 提 供最高品质 的珠 宝。” Zazare Diamonds是另一家专业 钻石供 应商,该品牌推 出了各 式 各 样 镶 有 珍 贵 钻石的精 美 珠 宝。戒 指、耳 环和吊坠 采用一系列或 经 典或 现代 的 设 计,无 瑕 美 钻 镶 嵌在 18克 拉白金、 玫 瑰 金或 黄金之 上。多语 种 导购 服务 还能 让 游客 深入了解,收 获 个 性化 的 珠 宝 建 议。个人、情侣 或 游客团体皆 可 预 订此 项 服务。 Gassan Diamond公司总部 坐落 于 一 幢 历史 悠久 的建 筑 之中,这 里曾 是 一家使用 蒸 汽 机 的钻石工 厂。这片 空间如 今已颇 具 现代 特 色,但仍 然是 卓 越 的钻石中心,Gassan公司的专业 工 匠团队汇 聚 于此。26个 语 种 的专业 导购 服务帮助 游客 在 购 买 钻石之前 获 知 需 要了解 的一 切 — —从 四个 C的 重要 性 到将原始 钻石 转 变为 耀 眼 宝 石的秘 密。Gassan在 全市设有众多精 品店,其 珠 宝系列 优 雅 柔美、前卫 奢 华,特别 适合日常佩 戴。 Coster Diamonds与许 多举 世 闻 名的宝石 有着 千 丝 万缕 的联 系。著 名的英国皇 冠 上有一枚 蓝白色 的光 之山钻石( Koh- i- Noor),它 就 是由 Coster公司的专家负责打磨;镶 嵌 于萨 克 森 皇 冠 上 的 德累 斯 顿 钻石同 样出自 Coster公司。该 公司与皇 室 素 有 渊源,至今 依然 在为荷兰 皇 家切 割 钻石。 2007年,Coster公司开设了自己 的钻石博 物 馆,一方面介 绍 钻石历 史,另一方面展 示 皇 家 Coster钻石 的历史,更 有一系列 夺目名石 可供 参 观。博 物 馆还为 您 提 供一次 独 特 的 机 会,让 您亲 睹劳作中的 能 工巧 匠 如 何 将 钻石完 美切 割和 抛 光。馆内甚 至 还 有 数 间工作 坊,您可以亲自动 手制 作 属于自己的完 美 钻 饰。“我们向您展
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示 钻石的全 部 奥 秘 与历史。”营 销与 传 播主管 Ronald Koster 说,获得这 些知识将能确保实现“第五个 C”— — 信心(Confidence),那 就 是, “在选 购 钻石的 时候,要 对 您 所在 的购 买地 有信心。” 在 Coster公司,设 计 团队 运用这 些 璀 璨 灵石,呈现 各种 各样或 经 典或 前卫 的珠 宝作品。“钻石是 永恒 的象 “ 它 如 此美丽 征, ” Koster先 生说 道, 和 珍 贵,人们 将它永久留存,这 就 是 钻石的永恒 魅力。
40: Form And Substance 型材兼备
荷兰 的设 计界向来 新人辈出,创 意 不 断。Emma Holmqvist Deacon带 您 一 起 欣 赏 世界上 最引人注目的创 意图景 如 果说 斯 堪 的纳 维 亚 设 计 定 义了纯 粹 的功 能 性,那么荷兰 设 计则 堪 称 叛 逆而 奔放 的表 亲。放 眼 今日的荷兰 设 计界,虽 然 HP Berlage、JJP Oud 和 Gerrit Rietveld等 20世 纪 初 的现代 主义 风 格派 运 动( De Stijl)主导者 依然 激 发 当代 人 的灵 感,但世 人 眼 中的现代 荷兰 设 计 多 半出现 在 20世 纪 90年 代。 “ 90年 代 的设 计 环 境 如 一 潭 死 水,发 展 迟 缓,止步不前。”阿姆斯 特
PHOTO: THIJS WOLZAK
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丹 著名家居店 The Frozen Fountain 的主 人 Cok de Rooy介 绍说。这 群 创 意 人士聚 集 起 来 改 变 游 戏 规 则, 赫 赫 有名的 Piet Hein Eek和 Hella Jongerius都是其中一员。Eek 通 过 替 换 材料来推 陈出新 — —用废 木 料制 作 家具,从而创 造了一 种 辨 识 度 颇 高、备 受 追 捧 的 标 志性 风 格。与此同 时,Jongerius则以前所 未有 的 方 式 将 工 业元 素与工 艺元 素 融 于 一 体。 Richard Hutten是 这 股创 新 潮 流 中另一 位 极 具影 响力的人物,他凭 借“ No Sign of Design(无 标 记设 计)”系列 作品一 炮而红。Hutten于 1992年设 计 的桌 椅( Table Chair) 系列,吸引人们 反 思自己看见 的究 竟是 — — 椅 子 还 是 桌子。“这 种 打 破常 规 的手法几乎能与 孟菲 斯团体 ( Memphis group)媲 美。” de Rooy 表 示。孟菲 斯团体 指 的是 20世 纪 80 年 代 早 期由 Ettore Sottsass发 起、灵 感 源自意 大 利 流行 艺 术 的一场 设 计 运 动。 概 念 性 设 计公司 Droog及其门店 是荷兰 设 计 传 统 的另一 块 奠 基 石。该 店位于 阿姆斯 特 丹,十分 值得 一 逛。 店内陈列 着 1991年 的 奶 瓶台灯等 标 志性 产品,洋 溢着那 个 时代 典 型 的 散 漫 风情。
如 何 描 述 新 一 代 的 本土设 计 师 呢?Droogs公司总 监 Renny Ramakers与 The Frozen Fountain公 司的 de Rooy这两位 行家一 致 认 为 今 非昔 比。“从前,产品就 是 产品 — — 现 在情况大不相 同。”Ramakers表 示 说。de Rooy则 指出,学 生和 年 轻 设 计 师们 将 他们 的作品当成了工具,用来 解 决能 够影 响他们 未 来 的问题。“涉 及 环 境、健 康 或 通讯 问题 解 决 方 案 的 社会 性 设 计,才是 年 轻 创 意 人士 的兴 趣 所在。” 在世界上 最有影 响力的学 校 之 一 — —艾 恩德 霍 芬设 计 学 院( Design Academy Eindhoven)所举办 的 2016 年 毕业秀上,这 批 新生代 设 计 师大 展 身手。Tamara Orjol将木 材业 剩 余 的 松 针加以处 理 后 制成 森 林 羊 毛 ( Forest Wool)系列家具 和 地 毯,这 便 是 这 种 时代 精神 的绝佳 范例。 像 Droog这 样 的知名设 计 师 也 在 改 变设 计方 式。“ 在 过去两年里,我 们关注 的是能为 城 市 带来 积 极 变化 的 “ 我们 不因 工作。”Ramakers解 释 说, 循 守旧,致力于 做有益于社会 和 生活 质 量 的项目。”其中一 个方 案便 是,他 们 将一 个 阴 暗、可怖 的地下行人 通 道 改 造 成了一 条宜 人、舒 适 的 拱 廊,沿 路布 满 咖 啡 摊 和 冰 淇 淋 小 铺。
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造 的五斗 橱仍可买到 — — 其余 的都 珍藏 在世界 各地 的博 物 馆中,用于 纪 念全 球 设 计史 上 的一 个重要篇章。
80: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全 球,尊 享退 税
遵 循 道 德 立场、视可 持 续 发 展 为核心的荷兰 设 计 师们 还 拥 有 高 科 技实力,例如 Joris Laarman和 Dirk Vander Kooij的 3D打印新技 术正在 国际 上 掀 起 浪潮。Vander Kooij来 自荷兰赞 丹 镇,他 最 著名的事迹 便 是将中国的一台工 业 机 器人 改 造 成 3D打印机,协助 他 将一 条条废旧的 冰 箱 塑料 打造 成 灯、花 瓶 和无 尽 椅 ( Endless Chair)等 物品。“我 一直 对 循 环利用的合成 材料 很 着 迷。大 家一 般 认 为 它只能用于生 产 便 宜但 不够 牢固的产品,我 想 改 变 这 种成 “ 在 我们 这台 见。”Vander Kooij说, 机 器人 的帮助下,我已 经 创 造 出了一 些 物品 — — 一层又一层 — —人们 根 本 想不到这 些 东 西还能用 塑料来制 作。”机 器人二号 现已加入了大家庭, 还 有一 个巨大 的压 床 被 用来 处 理 工 作 室产生的垃圾。 “我们把不满意的 椅 子 丢进 压 床,摇 身 一变 成 为厚实的 桌子。”Vander Kooij说。 经 过多年 演 变,如 今 的荷兰 设 计 或许更侧 重功 能 性而非外表,但 是 依 然 有许 多小 巧 玲 珑、方便 携 带品 任 您 选购。例 如,您可以在 The Frozen Fountain店内觅 得 Eek的陶壶和 Jongerius的 花 盆,还有 Ramakers亲 自推 荐 的 Droog绷 带 储 物 架,由传 统 的自行车 托 架制成 。她 还告 诉 我们, 有几 款与 Tejo Remy在 1991年合作 打
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当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购 物区中的 30多 万家 商店消费 时,环 球 蓝 联 购 物 退 税 服务(Global Blue Tax Free Shopping)为 您 节省购 物 开 销。 每 年大 约有两千六百多万名游客 享 用 环 球 蓝 联(Global Blue)的购 物 退 税 服务,何 不加入他们 的行列? 您只需 在 购 物 时留意 环 球 蓝 联 (Global Blue)的蓝 星标 志,或 直 接 问询 商家是 否 提 供 环 球 蓝 联 (Global Blue)退 税 服务,然后 遵 循以下简单 的退 税 流 程即 可:
1. 购 物 消费 在 橱 窗 裡带 有 环 球 蓝 联 退 税( Global Blue Tax Free) 标 志 的商店中购 物 时,请向店员出示护照 原件,索要 环 球 蓝 联 退 税 表 格(Global Blue Tax Free Form),并 保存 好购 物 票 据。
2. 申领 退 税 在 您 返 程离境前,请 前往 海 关柜台, 出示 退 税 表 格和 相 关 票 据,获 取 海 关印章,然后再到 环 球 蓝 联 的退 税 点领 取 退 税 款。 联 系方 式: taxfree@ globalblue. com + 421 232 111 111 最 低消费 € 50即 可申请 退 税,能 够 节 省高达购 买 商品 价 16%的税。 请 注 意:您 收 到 的退 税 款 是 增 值 税 减去环 球 蓝 联 的手 续 费。 如 果您 选 择 现 金 退 税,部 分机 场 还 将以 退 税申请 表为单位收取 现 金 退 税手 续 费。
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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 34: True Brilliance Подлинный блеск Ханна Льюис рассказывает, как выбрать идеальный бриллиант в Амстердаме
PHOTO: COURTESY OF SCHAAP EN CITROEN JUWELIERS
В 17 веке Голландия переживала Золотой период и превращалась в великую державу. Именно на это время пришелся расцвет торговли, науки, искусства и культуры в Амстердаме, и столица приобрела заслуженное мировое уважение. Тогда же стремительное развитие получила сфера огранки алмазов, и до сих пор голландские бриллианты сохраняют особый статус. Начиная с 16 века профессиональные мастера занимались обработкой драгоценных камней в Амстердаме. И по мере роста благосостояния города
увеличивался и мировой спрос на бриллианты. В наши дни столица Голландии остается одним из основных направлений в этой сфере, и крупные голландские бренды способны предложить исключительные по качеству и красоте камни и украшения всех мыслимых стилей, от классических до ультрасовременных. «Бриллиант – самый драгоценный и изысканный камень в мире. Такой ценностью он обязан своей редкости», – объясняет Денис Вортельбоэр, который руководит продажами для путешественников в компании Schaap en Citroen. Свой совет по выбору бриллианта он формулирует так: «Обращайте внимание не только на красивые украшения, но и на качество бриллиантов и сертификаты. Изучите четыре основных параметра и выберите тот, который вы считаете самым важным».
Четыре характеристики бриллиантов также называют «4C» – по названию ключевых свойств на английском языке: вес в каратах – carat, цвет – colour, чистота – clarity и огранка – cut. Именно на этих характеристиках базируется классификация камней. По словам Вортельбоэра, все люди по-разному расставляют приоритеты. Поэтому профессиональный и мультиязычный персонал столь авторитетной компании, как Schaap en Citroen, всегда поможет клиенту выбрать самый подходящий бриллиант. Компания Schaap en Citroen появилась от слияния двух уважаемых брендов: Schaap, основан в 1888 году, и Citroen (1827). В наши дни ее знают во всем мире как ведущего продавца изысканных часов и украшений. В ассортименте Schaap en Citroen есть бриллиантовые украшения от крупных ювелирных домов, в том числе Pomellato, Chopard globalblue.com
и Marco Bicego. Кроме того, компания создает собственную серию SC 1888, в которую входят украшения ручной работы из платины и бриллиантов. «Мы не только задаем моду на европейском рынке, но и следуем мировым тенденциям, – комментирует Вортельбоэр обширный ассортимент бриллиантовых украшений Schaap en Citroen. – Поэтому мы способны обеспечить высочайшее качество для всех наших покупателей из любой точки мира». Zazare Diamonds – еще один эксперт по красивым украшениям с бриллиантами. В коллекциях этого бренда есть как классические, так и более современные модели колец, серег и подвесок, и драгоценные камни обрамлены оправами из белого, розового или желтого золота 750 пробы. Заглянуть за кулисы бриллиантового дела и получить персональную ювелирную консультацию можно в рамках специальных экскурсий: они проводятся на различных языках для отдельных посетителей, пар или групп. Штаб-квартира ювелирной компании Gassan Diamond занимает историческое здание, в котором прежде располагалось бриллиантовое производство на паровом двигателе. Конечно, сейчас установлены гораздо более современные технологии, но само место по-прежнему остается центром притяжения
PHOTO: COURTESY OF SCHAAP EN CITROEN JUWELIERS
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PHOTO: ROYAL COSTER DIAMONDS
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профессиональных мастеров. Во время экскурсий, которые проводятся на 26 языках, посетители узнают все, что нужно для покупки идеального бриллианта: от важности каждой характеристики из «4C» до секретов преображения сырого алмаза в сверкающую драгоценность. В фирменных амстердамских бутиках Gassan можно внимательно рассмотреть элегантные и женственные украшения, которые созданы с ориентиром на моду и роскошь, но при этом прекрасно подходят для повседневности. Славу компании Coster Diamonds принесли знаменитые драгоценности с историей. Мастера Coster огранили сине-белый бриллиант Kohi-Noor, украшающий корону Великобритании, и бриллиант Dresden, который является частью саксонской короны. Компания и в наши дни продолжает развивать связи с королевской знатью и ограняет бриллианты для королевского двора Голландии. В 2007 году компания Coster открыла собственный музей бриллиантов. Экспозиции рассказывают историю обработки драгоценных камней и о Royal Coster Diamonds, а также демонстрируют коллекцию выдающихся и знаменитых драгоценностей. На специальной экскурсии можно увидеть талантливых мастеров за работой и стать свидетелем
огранки и полировки камня до совершенства. Более того, в отдельных мастерских посетители могут попробовать свои силы в создании бриллиантовых украшений. «Мы с удовольствием поведаем историю бриллиантов и поделимся секретами их обработки», – поясняет директор по маркетингу и коммуникациям Рональд Костер. С его точки зрения, эти знания принципиально важны для «пятой характеристики C». Он говорит о доверии – confidence: «Когда вы покупаете бриллиант, важно доверять месту, где он выставлен на продажу». Время не властно над бриллиантовыми украшениями марки Coster: команда ювелиров может предложить самые разные произведения в классическом или ультра-модном стиле, все с великолепными камнями. На вопрос о том, почему бриллианты всегда остаются неизменно желанными, Костер отвечает так: «Они символизируют вечность. Мы верим в красоту этого редкого камня, который останется с вами навсегда».
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40: Form And Substance
Форма и содержание
Эмма Холмквист Дикон рассказывает о самых интересных промышленных дизайнерах Голландии Если скандинавский дизайн воплощает чистую функциональность, то голландский дизайн – его свободолюбивый кузенбунтарь. На него по-прежнему влияют модернизм 19 века и творческие поиски первопроходцев авангардного общества De Stijl («Де Стейл») Хендрика Петрюса Берлаге, Якобуса Йоханнеса Ауда и Геррита Ритвельда. Но то, что многие называют современным
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голландским стилем, на самом деле появилось в 1990-е. «Это движение сформировалось как реакция на стагнацию в сфере дизайна того времени», – делится Кок де Роой, владелец известного амстердамского магазина The Frozen Fountain. Получившие признание дизайнеры Пит Хайн Эйк и Хелла Йонгериус принимали непосредственное участие в развитии творческого потенциала Нидерландов. Эйк, в частности, проектирует мебель из деревянных обрезков, и использование альтернативных материалов стало характерной особенностью голландского дизайна. Йонгериус же в своих работах соединила промышленные и ремесленные
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особенности таким образом, как еще не делал никто до нее. Дизайнер Ричард Хаттен также внес свою лепту в оформление современного голландского дизайна. Успех и известность ему принесла фирменная серия под названием No Sign of Design. В 1992 году Хаттен разработал Table Chair, который ставил перед зрителем вопрос: что это – стул или стол. «Подобный нонконформистский подход можно в какой-то мере сравнить с творчеством группы “Мемфис”», – де Роой проводит параллель с итальянским движением в дизайне, которое появилось на волне поп-арта в начале 1980-х под руководством Этторе Соттсасса. Компания Droog также специализируется на концептуальном дизайне, и ее магазин в Амстердаме стоит посетить в рамках знакомства с дизайнерским наследием Нидерландов. Здесь продаются культовые вещи: например, люстра Milkbottle Lamp, которая была спроектирована в 1991 году с типичным для того времени акцентом на беспечности и легкомыслии. Каким стало новое поколение дизайнеров Голландии по мнению Ренни Рамакерса из Droog и де Роой из The Frozen Fountain? Эксперты сходятся во мнении, что это явление совсем другого рода: «Раньше вещь была просто вещью, но теперь это не так», – отмечает Рамакерс. Де
Роой говорит, что студенты и молодые дизайнеры используют свои проекты для решения глобальных проблем будущего: «Их по-настоящему волнует социальный дизайн, который идет на пользу окружающей среде, здоровью и коммуникациям». Во всей красе показали себя дизайнеры нового поколения на выпускном шоу 2016 года в Академии дизайна Эйндховена, самой влиятельной высшей школе дизайна в мире. Одним из самых ярких примеров их подхода стал проект Тамары Орйолы: она сделала серию мебели и ковров под названием Forest Wool из переработанных сосновых иголок, которые в изобилии остаются от промышленных лесозаготовок. Вслед за ними обновляют правила игры и такие устойчивые игроки, как Droog: «В течение двух лет мы фокусируемся на тех проектах, которые позитивно преображают город, – объясняет Рамакерс. – Мы привязываемся к конкретным дисциплинам, и какой бы вид ни принимали наши идеи, главное – что они делают вклад в общество и качество жизни». Одна из таких программ посвящена преображению темных пешеходных переходов в приятные и уютные галереиаркады с помощью лотков с кофе и мороженым. Помимо четкой этической позиции с особым вниманием
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чемодане. Например, в The Frozen Fountain продают керамические кувшины Эйка и горшки Йонгериус, а из ассортимента Droog Рамакерс лично рекомендует систему хранения Strap, сделанную из велосипедных багажников. Кроме того, здесь попрежнему продается несколько комодов Chest of Drawers, созданных совместно с Тейо Реми в 1991 году: в свободной продаже их осталось совсем немного, поскольку остальные уже вошли в коллекции мировых музеев как символ важного этапа в истории мирового дизайна.
PHOTO: GERARD VAN HEES
к экологии, дизайнеры Нидерландов также активно задействуют хай-тек. Всемирное внимание уже привлекли новые технологии 3D-печати дизайнеров Йориса Лаармана и Дирка Вандер Кооий. Вандер Кооий из Зандама превратил китайского промышленного робота в 3D-принтер. С его помощью он напечатал лампы, вазы и даже кресло Endless Chair из струн, полученных из пластиковых частей старого холодильника. «Меня всегда привлекали переработанные синтетические материалы. Я хотел переломить стереотип, что из них можно делать только дешевые и недолговечные вещи, – комментирует Вандер Кооий. – С помощью нашего робота я создаю объекты, слой за слоем, и вряд ли кто-то подумает, что они из того самого пластика». К производственному процессу уже присоединился робот номер два. А мусор, который производит сама студия дизайнера, попадает в гигантский пресс: «Мы скармливаем прессу стулья, которые нам не понравились, и он превращает их в столы», – объясняет дизайнер. Конечно, голландский дизайн постепенно стал больше внимания уделять задачам вещей, а не их материальной форме. Но среди разработок дизайнеров достаточно таких предметов, которые можно увезти с собой в
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80: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €50 и сэкономьте до 16% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус
административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. TERJEMAHAN BAHASA INDONESIA 34: True Brilliance Kecemerlangan Sejati Amsterdam sudah lama menjadi salah satu destinasi terpenting dunia untuk berlian. Hannah Lewis mendapatkan informasi penting tentang cara menemukan ratna nan sempurna Masa Emas Belanda abad ke17 menyaksikan Amsterdam terbentuk menjadi sebuah kekuatan internasional besar: perdagangan, sains, seni, dan budayanya dihormati di seluruh dunia. Satu industri secara khusus tampil menonjol selama masa ini, dan masih berjalan kuat di Amsterdam hari ini: berlian. Batu manikam ini telah dikerjakan oleh pengkriya terampil di kota ini sejak abad ke-16, dan sambil kemakmuran kota ini terus tumbuh, begitu juga permintaan internasional terhadap batu yang paling mulia ini. Kini, ibu kota Belanda ini tetap salah satu tempat terbaik di dunia untuk membeli berlian, dengan para penyedia terkemukanya menawarkan batu dan perhiasan panutan dari segala gaya, dari klasik hingga kontemporer. ‘Berlian adalah batu paling berharga dan paling mewah di dunia. Berlian bertahan nilainya
karena sangat langka,’ papar Denis Wortelboer, direktur perjalanan ritel di Schaap en Citroen. Nasihatnya ketika menyangkut pembelian adalah ‘berfokus bukan hanya pada kecantikan perhiasan berliannya, namun juga pada kualitas dan sertifikat keaslian berlian itu sendiri. Berikan perhatian kepada empat C dan ketahui satu C yang paling cocok dengan Anda.’ Empat C – carat (karat), colour (warna), clarity (kejernihan), dan cut (potongan) – adalah patokan industri berlian. Dengan 4 sifat inilah setiap berlian dinilai mutunya. Seperti kata Wortelboer, setiap orang akan merasa berbeda tentang unsur yang terpenting, dan di pakar berlian yang diakui semisal Schaap en Citroen, akan siap sedia staf yang sangat terlatih (dan menguasai banyak bahasa) guna memandu klien ke batu yang paling tepat untuk mereka. Schaap en Citroen tercipta dengan menyatukan dua merek mapan – Schaap, yang berdiri di tahun 1888, dan Citroen, yang memulai hidup di tahun 1827. Kini, nama ini diakui di seluruh dunia sebagai penyedia terkemuka arloji dan perhiasan mewah. Selain menawarkan perhiasan berlian dari nama-nama terkemuka internasional – Pomellato, Chopard, dan Marco Bicego sebagai beberapa contoh – tim ini juga membuat jajaran perhiasan kriyanya sendiri yang menakjubkan dari berlian platina: SC 1888. ‘Di samping sebagai pencipta tren untuk pasar Eropa, kami juga mengikuti tren secara global,’ tukas Wortelboer tentang Schaap en Citroen, lini perhiasan
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berliannya yang luas. ‘Karena itu, kami bisa menyediakan perhiasan berkualitas tertinggi untuk semua langganan internasional kami.’ Pakar terkemuka lainnya adalah Zazare Diamonds, yang menawarkan beragam perhiasan cantik yang menonjolkan batu-batu mulia ini. Cincin, anting, dan liontin hadir berupa sederet desain klasik dan lebih modern, dengan set berlian mewah berbalut emas putih, merah muda, atau kuning 18 karat. Wisata berpemandu – tersedia dalam beragam bahasa – memungkinkan pengunjung melihat ke balik panggung dan menerima nasihat perhiasan yang dipersonalkan. Wisata ini bisa dipesan secara pribadi atau untuk pasangan atau rombongan yang lebih besar. Kantor pusat Gassan Diamond menempati sebuah gedung bersejarah yang sebelumnya berfungsi sebagai pabrik berlian bertenaga uap. Kini jauh lebih modern, ruang itu masih sebuah pusat kegemilangan, dan rumah bagi tim pengkriya ahli Gassan. Wisata berpemandu, yang tersedia dalam 26
PHOTO: INKBVBA.COM
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PHOTOS: ROYAL COSTER DIAMONDS
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bahasa, memungkinkan pengunjung menemukan apa saja yang perlu diketahui sebelum membeli berlian, dari arti penting empat C hingga rahasia dalam mengalihrupakan berlian kasar menjadi manikam berkilau. Gassan mempunyai sejumlah butik di seantero kota, tempat pengunjung bisa menjelajahi deretan perhiasannya yang elegan dan feminin, yang dirancang agar maju secara mode dan mewah namun pas untuk sehari-hari. Coster Diamonds dikenal karena kaitannya dengan sejumlah ratna terkenal. Koh-i-Noor, berlian biru-putih yang menjadi bagian dari permata mahkota Britania Raya yang termasyhur, dipoles oleh para pakar Coster, demikian juga berlian Dresden, bagian dari permata mahkota Saxony. Perusahaan ini mempunyai kaitan panjang dengan kerajaan; hari ini Coster terus memotong berlian untuk rumah tangga kerajaan Belanda. Di tahun 2007, Coster membuka museum berliannya, tempat pengunjung bisa menemukan pameran sejarah berlian dan Royal
Coster Diamonds, serta satu koleksi manikam yang luar biasa dan termasyhur. Wisata ini juga menawarkan kesempatan unik melihat pengkriya berbakat sedang bekerja, memotong dan memoles sampai sempurna, dan bahkan ada bengkel tempat peserta bisa terlibat dalam membuat sendiri potongan sempurna perhiasan berlian mereka. ‘Kami bisa menunjukkan semua rahasia dari berlian dan sejarahnya,’ kata direktur pemasaran dan komunikasi Ronald Koster. Pengetahuan ini, dia meyakini, penting guna memastikan apa yang disebutnya dengan ‘C kelima’: confidence (kepercayaan). ‘Ketika Anda membeli berlian, punyailah kepercayaan terhadap tempat Anda membelinya.’ Di Coster, daya tarik abadi berlian berarti tim desain dapat menyajikan satu jajaran luas perhiasan yang klasik dan maju secara mode, semuanya mengusung batu berkilau ini. Jadi, mengapa Koster berpikir bahwa berlian telah terbukti begitu diidamkan secara abadi? ‘Berlian adalah lambang keabadian,’ ujarnya. ‘Kami yakin akan kecantikan ratna ini. Ini batu langka yang akan Anda ingin miliki selamanya.’
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40: Form And Substance Bentuk Dan Isi Ada jauh lebih banyak yang terkandung dalam desain Belanda daripada jumlah bagian-bagiannya. Emma Holmqvist Deacon melihat salah satu suasana kreatif yang paling memikat di dunia Jika desain Skandinavia adalah definisi dari fungsionalitas yang bersih, mitra imbangan Belandanya bisa digambarkan sebagai keponakannya yang badung dan bersemangat bebas. Sementara modernisme abad ke-19 dan para perintis De Stijl seperti HP Berlage, JJP Oud, dan Gerrit Rietveld terus mengilhami, yang banyak dikaitkan dengan desain Belanda masa kini sebenarnya muncul di era 1990-an. ‘Gerakan ini dikembangkan sebagai reaksi terhadap suasana desain yang agak mandek waktu itu,’ kata Cok de Rooy, pemilik
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toko Amsterdam yang tenar The Frozen Fountain. Baik Piet Hein Eek maupun Hella Jongerius, yang dielu-elukan hari ini, merupakan bagian dari kelompok kreatif yang mengubah arah permainan ini. Eek membawa sesuatu yang baru dengan menggunakan bahan alternatif – membuat mebel dari kayu buangan – dan saat melakukannya, menciptakan ciri khas yang diakui dan banyak dicari. Sementara itu, Jongerius menggabungkan unsurunsur industri dan kriya dengan cara yang belum pernah ditampilkan sebelumnya. Richard Hutten adalah nama lain yang amat berpengaruh. Dia menorehkan nama lewat satu seri yang disebut dengan No Sign of Design. Table Chair (Kursi Meja) 1992 Hutten mengundang orang bertanya tentang apa yang sebenarnya sedang mereka lihat – kursi atau meja. ‘Pendekatan tidak patuh ini hampir bisa dibandingkan dengan kelompok Memphis,’ menurut pengamatan de Rooy, dengan merujuk ke gerakan desain yang diilhami budaya pop Italia yang dirintis oleh Ettore Sottsass di awal era 1980-an. Perusahaan desain konseptual Droog adalah salah satu tonggak warisan desain Belanda yang lain, demikian juga dengan tokonya yang wajib dikunjungi di Amsterdam. Perusahaan ini menyetok produk-produk ikonis, semisal Milkbottle Lamp 1991, dengan penyimpangan bengalnya yang khas dari masa itu. Seperti apakah Renny Ramakers, direktur Droogs, dan de Rooy, bos The Frozen Fountain mendefinisikan
PHOTO: RUUD SPLINTER
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generasi baru desainer pribumi? Kedua pakar setuju bahwa generasi ini seekor “binatang” yang berbeda sama sekali. ‘Di masa lalu, produk ya produk – kini tidak lagi demikian,’ catat Ramakers, dan de Rooy menunjukkan bahwa para mahasiswa dan perancang muda menggunakan karya mereka sebagai wahana untuk memecahkan masalah yang akan memengaruhi masa depan mereka. ‘Desain sosial, yang melibatkan solusi yang akan membantu lingkungan, kesehatan, atau komunikasi, adalah fokus para kreatif muda kita,’ ujarnya. Generasi baru perancang ini mulai unjuk kekuatan dalam pameran lulusan tahun 2016 Design Academy Eindhoven, salah satu sekolah paling berpengaruh di dunia. Mebel dan karpet Forest Wool karya Tamara Orjola, yang dibuat dari daun pinus olahan yang dipanen dari limbah industri perkayuan, adalah contoh bagus semangat zaman ini. Pemain-pemain mapan semisal Droog juga mengubah cara mereka. ‘Selama dua tahun terakhir, kami telah berfokus pada karya yang membuat perubahan positif di kota,’ papar Ramakers. ‘Pendekatan kami adalah anti-disiplin dan proyekproyek kami bisa mewujud dalam apa saja yang berkontribusi kepada masyarakat dan kualitas kehidupan.’ Salah satu skema ini melibatkan upaya mengubah sebuah terowongan pejalan kaki yang gelap dan mengerikan menjadi arkad yang ramah dan nyaman yang bertabur kedai kopi dan penjual es krim. Di samping mengambil sikap moral, dengan keberlanjutan pada
intinya, para perancang Belanda juga menguasai kecakapan tekno tinggi. Teknik-teknik cetak 3D baru dari Joris Laarman dan Dirk Vander Kooij sedang menciptakan gelombang secara internasional. Vander Kooij yang berpangkalan di Zandam paling terkenal karena mengalihwujudkan sebuah robot industri Tiongkok menjadi printer 3D, yang membantunya menciptakan benda-benda semisal lampu, jambangan, dan Endless Chair, yang dibuat dari utas-utas plastik kulkas tua. ‘Saya selalu terpesona oleh bahan sintetik daur ulang, dan saya ingin mengubah persepsi umum bahwa bahan itu hanya menghasilkan produk murah yang gampang rusak,’ ujar Vander Kooij. ‘Dengan bantuan robot kami, saya telah menciptakan barangbarang – lapisan demi lapisan – yang tidak diharapkan orang akan terbuat dari plastik.’ Robot nomor dua kini telah bergabung dengan keluarga itu, sementara sebuah mesin pres raksasa digunakan untuk mengurus limbah yang dihasilkan studio. ‘Kami
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mengumpankan ke mesin pres itu kursi-kursi yang tidak kami sukai dan mengubahnya menjadi meja tebal,’ ujar Vander Kooij. Desain Belanda mungkin telah berkembang menjadi lebih tentang tujuan daripada bentuk berwujud, namun tidak ada kelangkaan barang yang mudah masuk koper untuk dibeli. Anda akan menemukan kendi keramik Eek dan pot Jongerius di The Frozen Fountain misalnya, sementara Ramakers menyarankan secara pribadi solusi penyimpanan Strap Droog dari tokonya, yang dibuat dari pembawa sepeda tradisional. Dia juga mengatakan bahwa masih ada segelintir contoh Chest of Drawers, yang dibuat lewat kemitraan dengan Tejo Remy di tahun 1991, yang tersedia untuk dibeli – sisanya ditampung di berbagai museum di seluruh dunia sebagai perayaan sebuah bab besar dalam sejarah desain global.
80: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free Saat Ingin Memborong Dunia, Belanjalah Bebas Pajak Belanja Bebas Pajak Global Blue memberi Anda penghematan atas pembelian di lebih dari 300.000 toko di berbagai kawasan belanja terbaik di dunia. Jadi, mengapa tidak bergabung dengan 26 juta wisatawan yang berbelanja bebas pajak bersama Global Blue setiap tahun? Cukup cari tanda bintang biru atau tanyakan tentang Global Blue, lalu ikuti proses mudah kami. 1. Belanja Kapan saja Anda berbelanja, mintalah Formulir Bebas Pajak Global Blue dan simpan baik-baik bon/tanda terima Anda. 2. Klaim Ketika berangkat pulang, kunjungi loket pabean di titik keberangkatan untuk meminta persetujuan atas bon sebelum menagih pengembalian dana di salah satu meja layanan pelanggan kami. Kontak: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Belanjalah minimum â‚Ź50 dan hemat hingga 16% dari harga pembelian. Ingatlah bahwa pengembalian dana final yang Anda terima akan mencakup total PPN, dikurangi biaya administrasi. Di beberapa bandara dikenakan biaya penanganan tunai per Formulir Bebas Pajak jika Anda memerlukan pengembalian segera dalam bentuk uang tunai.
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SO UVEN I R
SHINING BRIGHT Mules are set to be seen on the most stylish feet this spring/ summer season, and this eyecatching pair from Gucci is sure to be top of many a wish list. They have everything to make you stand out from the crowd: block heels, silver cracked leather, fringing and beautiful double-G hardware. Visitors to Amsterdam will find them at Shoebaloo, which has been a leading retailer of high-end Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 80
footwear, bags and accessories for more than 40 years. Its boutiques are known for their original, oneof-a-kind futuristic interior design as well as for the vast selection of brands – not just Gucci, but also Valentino, Prada, Lanvin and Balmain to name but a few – available there. fm Gucci Marmont mules, €695, Shoebaloo, Koningsplein 5, 1017 BB Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 626 7993, gucci.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 74