SHOP London Style AW16

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LONDON | ЛОНДОН | 伦敦 |

LONDON

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Style Edition Autumn/Winter 2016/17

SMART MOVE: discover Britain’s updated heritage brands


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H O B B S f l ag S H i p StO r e






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Discover the best of this exciting European capital with SHOP. Read about the hatmaker Lock & Co, one of London’s longest established heritage brands, on page 50, as well as about the city’s most exciting artisan bakeries, and much more. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14% when shopping in the UK. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in London. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.


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PERFECT TREATMENT Expertly crafted

Looking after London’s Health & Wellbeing HEALTHCARE . PHARMACY . SKINCARE

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CONTRIBUTORS

PHOTO: NEIL WEBB

Neil Webb Illustrator Neil Webb created this season’s cover for SHOP London Style. His illustration is based on our feature about Britain’s heritage clothing labels on page 42. The cover shows a trendy tweed jacket decorated with Underground-inspired lines and a pocket square in the shape of London’s most famous landmarks. Neil’s previous clients include the BBC and Time Out. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Onur Unaltay SHOP’s artworking assistant Onur Unaltay studied graphic design at Middlesex University. He has designed men’s clothing for various international companies and is an avid fan of football, hip hop and fashion. He is a keen traveller who loves diferent cultures. globalblue.com

Mónica R Goya Mónica R Goya is SHOP’s senior picture assistant. She is passionate about food and has visited a selection of the city’s leading artisanal bakeries for this edition’s Experience. Mónica particularly loves to share meals with her family and friends.


MADE IN boggi.com

London | 49 Jermyn Street | Tel. +44 20 7629.24.95

| 28 Sloane Square | Tel. +44 20 7823.50.44


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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Neil Webb Contributor Harriet Quick Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion writer Danielle De Wolfe News editor Ginger Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistants Charlotte Rogers, Selina Tan Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Milkha Lala Artworking assistant Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur

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Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Sammy Ha, Adanna Nwachuku

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue



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CONTENTS Products

News 29 Shop Window One store not to be missed in London 30 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

Features 42

Cover story:

Past And Present The UK’s leading heritage brands are updating their timeless designs to make them relevant for new customers, as Harriet Quick discovers 50 Top Hatter With well over three centuries of hat-making history, Lock & Co is the oldest hat shop in the world – and one of the very best, writes Ruairidh Pritchard Above: Lock & Co Hatters Coke hat

p.50

Experience 58 On The Rise Artisan bakeries serving delicious bread, rolls and sweet goods using traditional methods are well worth seeking out. Mónica R Goya visits a selection of the leading places

Guide 67 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of London, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights

Essentials 86 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

Translations 87 Русский Перевод 94 美文翻译 105 ‫يبرع‬

Souvenir 106 The essential item to bring home

PHOTO: LOCK & CO. HATTERS

18 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from London this season 20 My Favourites Charlotte Beecham, who set up the accessories brand Charlotte Simone, reveals her top tips for autumn/winter 2016/17 22 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 26 Street Style Our pick of London’s best dressed this season



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CHECK OUT

NATURE’S TOUCH Crabtree & Evelyn has looked to Italy’s grand historic gardens to create this wonderfully foral scent. There are top notes of freesia – a member of the iris family which can be traced back to Italy – orange and pear, alongside base notes of rich amber and jasmine. The result is a fresh fragrance with touches of fruit, bringing to mind the wide variety of fowers and plants found in a classic garden. Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Not only is this scent perfect for the day or the night, the bottle and packaging are elegant and sophisticated. Established more than 40 years ago as a producer of fne soaps, Crabtree & Evelyn was inspired by John Evelyn, a pioneering 17th-century English conservationist. dw Crabtree & Evelyn Florentine Freesia Flower Water, 100ml, £45, Crabtree & Evelyn, 151 Regent Street, London W1B 4JD, +44 (0)20 7734 6043, crabtree-evelyn.co.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 75


tmlewin.co.uk

OXFORD STREET 388 Oxford Street W1C 1JT

JERMYN STREET

103–108 Jermyn Street SW1Y 6EQ

REGENT STREET 126 Regent Street W1B 5SD


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MY FAVOURITES: CHARLOTTE BEECHAM After studying at New York University, Charlotte Beecham spent a year in Paris, where she was inspired by French women’s efortless style and their ability to build an outft around a single accessory. She later set about looking at how she could reinvent the everyday scarf and established her own label, Charlotte Simone, in 2011. Her signature piece is the fur hood, a perfect winter accessory which combines a scarf and a hood. Here, Charlotte talks to Fani Mari about her favourite items for the season 1

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1. ‘At the moment Sophia Webster is my favourite shoe brand. I’m saving up for a pair of Boss Lady pumps’ Sophia Webster Boss Lady shoes, £350, Sophia Webster, 124 Mount Street, London W1K 3NR, +44 (0)20 7729 7004, sophiawebster.com

2. ‘The Mac Daddy is my favourite item from my current collection. It makes a super-sexy overlay for a day-to-night look’

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Charlotte Simone Mac Daddy coat, £575, Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RJ, +44 (0)20 7235 5000, charlottesimone.com


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3. ‘When travelling I turn to Estée Lauder’s Night Repair treatment’

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Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II, 50ml, £70, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), esteelauder.co.uk

PHOTO: ED REEVE

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PHOTO: (3) © RICHARD PIERCE; (4) © FOUR SQUARE STUDIO INC

4. ‘Jo Malone Pear & Freesia is my signature fragrance’ Jo Malone English Pear & Freesia fragrance, 100ml, £85, Jo Malone, 101 Regent Street, London W1B 4EZ, +44 (0)370 192 5021, jomalone.com

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5. ‘Matches Fashion in Marylebone is my go-to for shopping in London. It’s always so beautiful and styled with such care and detail’ Matches Fashion, 87 Marylebone High Street, London W1U 4QU, +44 (0)20 7487 5400, matchesfashion.com


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MIX IT UP

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Classic prints and styles work well with sparkling accessories and red hues 1

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1. Kikki.K journal, £21, Kikki.K, 5-6 James Street, London WC2E 8BT, +44 (0)20 7240 7807, kikki-k.com

4. Accessorize Paloma poncho, £39, Accessorize, 55-59 Oxford Street, London W1D 2EQ, +44 (0)20 7287 0531, accessorize.com

2. Dune bag, £40, Dune, 28 Argyll Street, London W1F 7EB, +44 (0)20 7287 9010, dunelondon.com

5. Seven Boot Lane Erin boots, £150, Victoria Beau, 10 Camden Passage, London N1 8ED, +44 (0)20 3105 5949, sevenbootlane.com

3. Chanel nail polish, £18, Chanel, 167-170 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QF, +44 (0)20 7235 6631, chanel.com

6. Oliver Bonas necklace, £28, Oliver Bonas, 37 Eastcastle Street, London W1W 8DT, +44 (0)20 7637 9616, oliverbonas.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86


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PHOTOS: (6) CLIFF COLGATE/SPIKE IMAGING; (7) & OTHER STORIES

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7. & Other Stories Cretonne Silver eye shadow, £7, & Other Stories, 256-258 Regent Street, London W1B 3AF, +44 (0)20 3402 9190, stories.com 8. Tom Ford lip contour duo, £39, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), tomford.com 9. Phase Eight earrings, £25, Phase Eight, 10-12 James Street, London W1U 1EE, +44 (0)20 7499 7750, phase-eight.com

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10. Monsoon dress, £129, Monsoon, 1 Octagon Arcade, London EC2M 2QS, +44 (0)20 7638 4335, monsoon.co.uk


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LOOKING GOOD

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Invest in these beauty essentials for glowing skin and glossy hair

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2. Clarins Fix' Make-Up spray, £24, John Lewis, 300 Oxford Street, London W1C 1DX, +44 (0)20 7629 7711, clarins.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86

3. Alpha-H Beauty Sleep Power Peel, 50ml, £54, Marks & Spencer, 458 Oxford Street, London W1C 1AP, +44 (0)20 7935 7954, alpha-h.com 4. Om Skincare Revitalising Beauty Booster, 15ml, £22.50, Space NK, 27 Duke of York Square, London SW3 4LY, +44 (0)20 7730 9841, omskincare.co.uk 5. Emma Hardie Moisture Boost Vit+C cream, £45, Marks & Spencer, 173 Oxford Street, London W1D 2JR, +44 (0)20 7437 7722, emmahardie.com

PHOTO: (3) STEPHEN CLARKE

1. Swell Ultimate Volume Shampoo, £25; Ultimate Volume Conditioner, £28; Ultimate Volume Root Complex, £32, Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, swell.co.uk


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CITY CHIC

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Remain stylish during the weekends by combining denim with suede 4

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1. Barbour jacket, £129, Barbour, 73-77 Regent Street, London W1B 4EF, +44 (0)20 7434 0880, barbour.com

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2. Timberland backpack, £70, Timberland, 144 Regent Street, London W1B 5SQ, +44 (0)20 7494 9588, timberland.co.uk

4. New Look jeans, £24.99, New Look, 233 High Holborn, London WC1V 7DN, +44 (0)20 7269 6960, newlook.com

3. Thomas Sabo ring, £595, Thomas Sabo, 65 South Molton Street, London W1K 5SU, +44 (0)20 3298 0147, thomassabo.com

5. Massimo Dutti shoes, £69.95, Massimo Dutti, 156 Regent Street, London W1B 5LB, +44 (0)20 7851 1280, massimodutti.com

globalblue.com


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STREET STYLE

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

From oversized necklines and cufs as worn by Doina Ciobanu and Pernille Teisbaek, to Erica Pelosini’s statement accessories, take inspiration from the bestdressed people at London Fashion Week

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86


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globalblue.com


8-11 Arcade, 28 Old Bond St. Find your neares Camper sore at camper.com


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PHOTO: JAMES WHITAKER

SHOP WINDOW

FIRST CLASS Joseph has opened its frst menswear fagship store, on London’s prestigious Savile Row. Partitioned into three areas, the retail space houses the brand’s complete ready-to-wear men’s collection for the season. A monochrome palette is used throughout the store, complete Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86

with modern accents and materials to create a sleek and contemporary look, refecting the garments’ designs. Standout pieces here include oversized utilitarian coats, chunky knitwear with subtle details and sleek tailoring. km Joseph, 2 Savile Row, London W1S 3PA, +44 (0)20 7439 8444, joseph-fashion.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 75


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Founded in the 19th century, British footwear company Hunter has a far-reaching reputation. The brand has recently unveiled the Core concept by Hunter Original, consisting of seasonless and unisex pieces. Favourite styles have been updated and there’s a new waterproof three-layer cotton hunting coat as well as a rubberised mini backpack. The label’s vinyl smock looks particularly good with a pair of Original Tall or Short boots, available in a matte or gloss fnish. As with the boots, accessories and outerwear come in a choice of colours, making this collection a stylish option for lovers of the outdoors. gc Hunter, 83-85 Regent Street, London W1B 4EN, +44 (0)20 7287 2999, hunterboots.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 75

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86

PHOTO: ED REEVE

BRITAIN’S BEST

GOLDEN TOUCH Golden Goose Deluxe Brand continues to grow and has opened a store in Mayfair. The Venicebased label’s new retail space has a minimalist design with foor stands and racks that give the illusion that the clothing is hovering in mid-air. Meanwhile a remarkable brass display unit that spans the store’s two foors highlights the footwear selection on show. A vintage sofa that dates back to the 1950s and antique mirrors from Venice provide the fnishing touches. gc Golden Goose Deluxe Brand, 30 Dover Street, London W1S 4NB, +44 (0)20 7629 9951, goldengoosedeluxebrand.com


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A TASTE OF PARIS

PHOTO: DIRK LINDNER 2015

Chic French menswear label Ami continues its international expansion with a new store on Duke Street. Previously an organic patisserie, the store has been transformed into an elegant space that refects the individual aesthetic of Ami’s founder and artistic director Alexandre Mattiussi. Exposed brick walls, brass, marble and wood give a distinctly masculine feel, while mirrors have been positioned throughout to create an optical illusion of endless space. Although Ami is distinctly Parisian, the brand has universal appeal and its signature style blends perfectly with the British feel of the building and its neighbourhood. This is an exciting addition to the already impressive menswear scene in London. hl Ami, 75 Duke Street, London W1K 5PA, +44 (0)20 7499 0290, amiparis.fr

AMERICAN BEAUTY

PHOTO: ŠPHILIPPE FRAGNIERE

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 74

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New York skincare brand Malin + Goetz has arrived in the UK, opening its frst two London stores in Covent Garden and Islington. Each retail space has its own identity, elaborated by Jonathan Tuckey Design. While the shop on Upper Street refers to its Victorian setting by incorporating elements inspired by the 19th century, the space on Monmouth Street plays with the idea of retail as theatre. Despite these being very diferent environments, they both succeed in immersing visitors in the Malin + Goetz brand. gc Malin + Goetz, 146 Upper Street, London N1 1QY, +44 (0)20 7424 5171; 6 Monmouth Street, London WC2H 9DA, +44 (0)20 7240 5476, malinandgoetz.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 79


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SWEDISH SOUL Stockholm brand Sandqvist, which has gained a reputation for its stylish and functional bags, has opened its frst retail space outside of Sweden. After a thorough search, the label settled on a location on Berwick Street in Soho where it joins labels such as Oliver Spencer and Universal Works. For the interior design, Sandqvist turned to Fredrik Nilsby who has previously been responsible for designing its other stores and chose a combination of fr ply, concrete foors and marble. Customers can shop the full product range, including the Lightweight vegan series and the frst full collection for women. This is the place to go to for a minimalistic bag with a distinctly Nordic aesthetic. gc

Sandqvist, 79 Berwick Street, London W1F 8TL, +44 (0)20 7434 0727, sandqvist.net

SQUARE UP Military watches from the 19th century are the source of inspiration for Larsson & Jennings’ recently released Norse series. The watches in this collection all stand out for their square or rectangular cases which are complemented with a handmade leather strap. Available in two sizes, the larger model (£245) comes with an additional date function. The angular shape may well be a nod to the past, but it’s also an incredibly modern look for those who aren’t afraid to break with the norm. gc Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Larsson & Jennings, 53 Monmouth Street, London WC2H 9DG, +44 (0)20 7836 9707, larssonandjennings.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 79


mossbros.co.uk


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Norwegian Rain is going through an exciting phase in the British capital: having opened a fagship store on Piccadilly in 2016, this season it has collaborated with British heritage brand Grenson. The result is a range of waterproof shoes and boots – thanks to an innovative titanium tanning process, the leather doesn’t soak up water upon contact. With a pair from this range on your feet, you’ll be able to walk around London without fear of getting wet feet. gc

EVERYDAY LUXURY Rituals cosmetics has expanded its presence in London with the addition of two stores. The frst retail space to open can be found on Kensington High Street (pictured) while the brand’s fagship store on James Street in Covent Garden started Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86

PHOTO: © BENT RENÈ SYNNEVÅG

LET IT RAIN

Norwegian Rain, 193 Piccadilly, London W1J 9EU, +44 (0)77 7182 6220, norwegianrain.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 76

trading in August. Browse the large range of products, from skincare through to tea and scented candles, as Rituals invites us to celebrate everyday moments and enrich our daily lives with luxurious items. gc Rituals, 131 Kensington High Street, London W8 6SU, +44 (0)20 7938 4611; 29 James Street, London WC2E 8PA, rituals.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 78



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JOINED-UP THINKING

INTO THE BLUE Denim label True Religion has chosen London’s vibrant Carnaby Street as the location for its frst international fagship store. Founded in 2002, True Religion has made a name for itself through must-have products such as its fve-pocket jeans. The label has launched its new retail concept, which includes an updated take on its denim bar where new styles for men and women are displayed. The two foors are designed to feel intimate and information about products can be accessed digitally through iPads and touchscreens. gc True Religion, 9 Carnaby Street, London W1F 9PE, +44 (0)20 7287 6061, truereligion.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 75

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Danish-Irish jewellery designer Maria Black has looked to the traditions of piercing and has playfully updated these in a collection which has an original and contemporary aesthetic. In her Helix range, single pieces of jewellery look as if multiple piercings have been made or as though more than one item is being worn: the pictured Helix Trapez ring (£98) gives the impression of a number of stacked, tilted pieces on the wearer’s fnger. In addition to rings such as this, the collection spans a range of pieces from statement ear cufs to elegant chokers. A two-tone concept has also been introduced whereby silver and gold have been fashionably combined. gc Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, maria-black.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 75


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OUTDOOR STYLE

WORK OF ART Fashion designer Matthew Williamson celebrates his eponymous label’s 20th anniversary in 2017 and to mark the occasion Laurence King has published a book celebrating his work. Matthew Williamson: Fashion, Print & Colouring Book (£15.95) invites readers to step into the world of the British designer who is known for his colourful, mesmerising prints. The book contains inspirational imagery, behind-the-scenes photography, sketches and prints spanning Williamson’s career and there are also drawings which can be coloured in, encouraging you to indulge your creative side. gc Anthropologie, 158 Regent Street, London W1B 5SW, +44 (0)20 7529 9800, laurenceking.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 75

globalblue.com

Quintessential British brand Jaeger has joined forces with menswear designer Lou Dalton to create a capsule collection. Jaeger’s extensive archive provided the source of inspiration for the range, to which Dalton brought her skill for putting a contemporary spin on classic clothing and tailoring. Key outerwear pieces made of technical fabrics are rendered in shades such as navy, grey and camel, in reference to outdoor spaces, both urban and natural. Opt for a practical shower-proof nylon jacket or the cosy merino houndstooth jacquard crew-neck sweater (pictured, £120) for a stylish addition to your wardrobe. gc Jaeger, 145 King’s Road, London SW3 5TX, +44 (0)20 7871 8220, jaeger.co.uk






PHOTO: HOLLAND & HOLLAND


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The UK’s leading heritage brands are updating their timeless designs to make them relevant for new customers, as Harriet Quick discovers

Above: Russian caption mo tet voluptati eniatem nullandem ium As qui rernati orenit


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B

rands across the world come and go but Britain boasts an enviable roster of historic clothing and accessories companies which offer traditional values alongside modern, relevant designs. Such firms will have adapted over the years, with some embracing foreign investment, but they’ve maintained a fiercely British vision. One long-standing company which is coming to the fore is Holland & Holland, which was 87 /

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British heritage brands offer top quality and classic designs updated with new ideas founded in 1835 as a supplier of accessories for those living in the countryside. Now owned by Previous page and above: Mackintosh autumn/ winter 2016/17


PHOTO: HOLLAND & HOLLAND

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Chanel, it is being reinvented under the creative directorship of model Stella Tennant (who is also a muse of Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel’s designer), and stylist and consultant Isabella Stanhope, who has worked at British Vogue. The two women have been friends for a number of years and are experts in British country life, both having homes in remote parts of Scotland. They are bringing their experience in fashion and their

instinctive style to Holland & Holland. Tennant and Stanhope have been working with experts in Scottish tweed mills, developing subtle fabrics for their silhouettes, which are inspired by menswear. ‘I feel most at home in the Scottish countryside,’ says Tennant, who credits her flair for style to her grandparents, the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire. ‘All the textures and colours we are working with come from nature,’ continues

Above: Holland & Holland autumn/winter 2016/17, featuring the model Stella Tennant who is also the brand’s co-creative director


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kilts, Guernsey sweaters, highwaisted trousers, culottes and baggy, golf-style trousers. For your feet, there are sturdy leather walking shoes (with tongues that fold back to prevent the laces getting caught in the heather), hiking boots and tweed skater-style sneakers. Stanhope admits that developing the collection has been a ‘big job’ but points to Tennant’s expertise: ‘Stella is a brilliant colourist and she also has a depth of fashion knowledge.’

PHOTOS: HOLLAND & HOLLAND

the model, who stresses that everything in the collection will be ‘useful and beautiful’. The women are intrepid travellers and keen walkers who have brought a sense of adventure to the heart of the new Holland & Holland aesthetic. The line-up caters for women as well as for men and features practical and good-looking pieces such as single-breasted jackets, multipocket vests with storm collars,

Above (clockwise from left): Holland & Holland autumn/winter 2016/17; the brand’s women’s leather walking shoes with folded-back tongue; women’s skater-style tweed sneakers; women’s high-top tweed sneakers, both Holland & Holland autumn/winter 2016/17


FENWICK KINGSTON WOOD STREET, KINGSTON UPON THAMES KT1 1TX TELEPHONE 020 8546 1001


PHOTO: GIULIO CASTELLI PHOTOGRAPHY

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The women’s ambition for Holland & Holland? ‘It should be fun wearing it. Otherwise what’s the point?’ Outerwear specialist Mackintosh delivers streamlined raincoats made with a trademarked rubberised fabric which chemist Charles Macintosh invented in 1823. The company has made sure that the silhouettes and colours of its coats shift with the times: cue a new white version with black buttons alongside a choice of bordeaux, camel and bottle green hues. The company has been

collaborating with fashion names, including young designer JW Anderson and the Parisian milliner Maison Michel, which helped the brand to create the chicest rain hats (which are sure to frequently come in handy given the inclement nature

Above (clockwise from left): Mackintosh menswear; Mackintosh women’s coat; Maison Michel x Mackintosh rain hat, all autumn/winter 2016/17


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of the British weather). Mackintosh is not the only heritage brand that is collaborating to keep its offerings fresh. Sunspel was founded in Nottingham in 1860; today it produces highquality sea-island cotton and fine jersey and the company’s store on Redchurch Street in the East End is the place where the capital’s hipsters buy their everyday staples, such as T-shirts and underwear. For autumn, it has joined up with Gloverall, a British company which has been making outerwear since the 1950s, to create a

no-nonsense duffle coat which works particularly well with traditional welted shoes from Church’s or Grenson. Far from being dated, these brands have adapted to retain lasting appeal by offering classic designs which have been updated with new ideas, while maintaining the quality expected of such companies. Pack these pieces into the suitcase made by Globe-Trotter (established in 1897) in collaboration with Alexander McQueen – and take a slice of British history home with you

Above (from left): the Sunspel store on Redchurch Street; Sunspel autumn/winter 2016/17


PHOTO: LOCK & CO. HATTERS

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With well over three centuries of hat-making history, Lock & Co is the oldest hat shop in the world – and one of the very best, writes Ruairidh Pritchard


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his daughter Mary married his former apprentice, Charles Davis handed the keys to his business to James Lock, and the hat shop took the name it has today: Lock & Co. In the years that followed, Lock & Co became the hatter of choice for some of the most prominent members of British high society. Clients included 19th-century prime minister Lord Grenville and Admiral Lord Nelson, whose signature cocked hat and cockade, familiar from his portraits, was created in the shop. The store and the family that ran it became well-known; James Benning, an eccentric member of the Lock family, is said to have inspired the Mad Hatter character in Alice’s

PHOTOS: LOCK & CO. HATTERS

ome notable British establishments are found on and around St James’s Street in London’s West End, from royal residence St James’s Palace to some of the capital’s finest restaurants. Among these prestigious names is Lock & Co, the oldest hat shop in the world; this London legend celebrates 340 years of business in 2016. In 1676, hatter Robert Davis opened a shop on the newly fashionable St James’s Street. Ten years later, in 1686, George Lock opened a coffee house on the same street. In 1747, James Lock – the grandson of George Lock – became apprenticed to Charles Davis, the son of Robert Davis. In 1765, when

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98

Previous: Lock & Co storage cases Above: the Lock & Co shop on St James’s Street; Admiral Lord Nelson wearing his signature cocked hat


6 St. James’s Street, London, SW1A 1EF Lockhatters.co.uk


Adventures in Wonderland, Lewis Carroll’s famous children’s book. Today, Lock & Co holds two royal warrants – one from the Prince of Wales and another from his father, the Duke of Edinburgh – and created many of the hats worn to the wedding of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. Ruth Ravenscroft, the brand’s creative director, sees the company’s enduring success as a result of remaining true to its founding principles. ‘We believe in superior customer service and using the finest materials to produce the best styles,’ she says. Lock & Co’s customers are loyal and know they can depend on the team to provide

exactly what they need for the most important occasions. ‘Before the busy Ascot season some clients send images of their summer wardrobe,’ explains Ravenscroft. ‘We are able to advise them and have their hats ready when they arrive for the season.’ Lock & Co is proudly traditional in many ways, but it is also one of London’s most respected purveyors of contemporary millinery. ‘We continue to use traditional millinery techniques but are always experimenting with new materials and shapes,’ says Ravenscroft. ‘We have several new blocks made every season and often take inspiration from the runway for the season’s

Above (from lef): Lock & Co bespoke Grandstand hat; the brand’s Deco Sun couture hat

PHOTOS: LOCK & CO. HATTERS

54 | F E AT U R E S


S H O P | 55

Lock & Co, while proudly traditional in many ways, is also a respected purveyor of contemporary hats lead colours. Each season we create a capsule collection of more extreme and fashion-forward pieces as well as translating the current season’s colours and feel into our more classic styles.’ The team has also collaborated with some of London’s leading fashion names, including Vivienne Westwood, Private White VC and Mr Porter. This not only widens Lock & Co’s appeal, but also brings exciting new challenges. ‘Partnering with likeminded brands allows us to access different demographics and really have fun with the hat designs,’ explains Ravenscroft. ‘We have an exciting collaboration coming up with Johnstons of Elgin,

the world’s finest and oldest cashmere maker, on a capsule collection of men’s beanies. We’re really excited about this collaboration because there is fantastic synergy between our two brands, as well as being royal warrant holders and family-owned businesses.’ However, it is one of Lock & Co’s oldest creations that remains its most popular – the Coke (pronounced ‘cook’). In 1849, the nobleman Edward Coke approached Lock & Co’s chief hatmaker Thomas Bowler for a new hat. He wanted a design that would improve upon the traditional top hat, which kept falling off his gamekeepers’ heads while they were working on his

Above (clockwise from top left): a selection of Lock & Co fabrics; ribbed peak beanie created with Johnstons of Elgin; the popular Coke hat, better known as the bowler


56 | F E AT U R E S

Norfolk estate. The result, the oval, durable Coke, is better known as the bowler, and to this day it is one of the most recognisable hat styles. The practicality of the new wind resistant, hardwearing design meant that it found popularity beyond the English countryside. It was worn by British railway workers in western America, and was adopted by Wild West outlaws, South American women, and stars of the silver screen, including silent film icon Charlie Chaplin, Patrick Macnee of The Avengers and Monty Python’s John Cleese. The Lock & Co creation was cemented as a

masterpiece of design. The Coke, says Ravenscroft, is still one of Lock & Co’s best-selling designs. ‘We continue to sell bowlers to city workers, those who wear it as part of their uniform, like county show judges and the army, Nigerian customers who see the hat as a status symbol, film companies and a wide array of international tourists who are keen to own a piece of Lock history.’ Whether the Coke is your style or you’re looking for something truly modern, when it comes to headgear, 340 years as a leader in the field make a hat from Lock & Co an impeccable choice

Above (from top): three classic Lock & Co bowler hats; one of the brand’s ateliers

PHOTOS: LOCK & CO. HATTERS

Whether the classic bowler is your style or you are looking for something modern, a hat from Lock & Co is an impeccable choice



58 | E X P E R I E N C E

ON THE RISE Artisan bakeries serving delicious bread, rolls and sweet goods using traditional methods are well worth seeking out. Mónica R Goya visits a selection of the leading places

Bread is a staple food around the world and evidence shows that humans were processing and eating wild grains 23,000 years ago. In recent decades, mass-produced bread has resulted in low-quality loaves for consumers in many countries, but in the UK a new generation of artisan bakers is determined to reinstate bread as it used to be made. Visitors to London globalblue.com

have a wide range of outstanding bakeries to choose from, where the focus is on top-class ingredients – sometimes organic – and traditional methods such as the use of sourdough and stone ovens. Some of these small-scale bakeries also have a café area where visitors can sit and enjoy freshly made bread, rolls and pastries in a welcoming atmosphere.


PHOTO: MÓNICA R. GOYA

S H O P | 59

B A LT H A Z A R BOULANGERIE Following on from his successful French-inspired brasserie and bakery in Manhattan, British restaurateur Keith McNally opened Balthazar London in 2013 comprising a café and adjacent boulangerie. Located a stone’s throw from Covent Garden, Balthazar Boulangerie serves excellent French pastries and small cakes made on the premises, as well as rustic breads including

sourdough, rye, spelt walnut and sultana varieties, which are handmade at the company’s workshop in Waterloo. The décor is elegant and chic, with an old-world feel and a beautiful tiled foor. The small space accommodates some bar stools where customers can sit and enjoy a hot or cold drink, sandwiches and pastries. Balthazar Boulangerie, 4-6 Russell Street, London WC2B 5HZ, +44 (0)20 3301 1155, balthazarlondon.com


60 | E X P E R I E N C E

FA BR IQU E

Part of the acclaimed St John restaurant group, this bakery is only open to the public at the weekend. The key element to St John breads is time: the slow fermentation process means that the dough is proved for 40 hours so that that each loaf is packed with favour; it also results in bread which has a long shelf life and keeps moist for several days. The ofer includes brown, white and 100% rye sourdoughs; white, brown and light rye loaves; raisin loaves and soda bread. Be sure to pick up some doughnuts while you’re here. St John Bakery is located behind Maltby Street market, just a short walking distance from London Bridge station. St John Bakery, 72 Druid Street, London SE1 2HQ, +44 (0)207251 0848, stjohngroup.uk.com globalblue.com

PHOTOS: MÓNICA R. GOYA

ST JOH N BA K E RY

Having originally opened in Stockholm, Swedish bakery Fabrique established its frst venue outside of its home country in Hoxton in 2012. Sourdough bread, including Nordic rye loaves, is made here using traditional methods and baked in a stone oven, and the open space allows visitors to see the bakers in action. Sandwiches are a favourite among locals visiting Fabrique’s café and pastries are also available: we recommend trying a cinnamon or cardamom bun. The concept is so popular that branches have also opened in Covent Garden and Notting Hill. Fabrique, Arch 385, Gefrye Street, London E2 8HZ, +44 (0)20 7033 0268, fabrique.co.uk


tmlewin.co.uk

OXFORD STREET 388 Oxford Street W1C 1JT

JERMYN STREET

103–108 Jermyn Street SW1Y 6EQ

REGENT STREET 126 Regent Street W1B 5SD



S H O P | 63

PHOTOS: MÓNICA R. GOYA

E5 BAKEHOUSE Former environmental consultant Ben Mackinnon set up E5 Bakehouse, tucked away under the railway arches in London Fields, as a place which focuses on making organic bread using UK ingredients: in fact, the emphasis on being local is so strong that the four is milled in the arch next door. Spelt, multigrain and rye breads are all made here, and the globalblue.com

bestselling loaf is the Hackney Wild, made with a blend of heritage and modern wheat grains. Take time to enjoy the baked delights in E5 Bakehouse’s café, including flled baguettes, toast and open sandwiches, where the smell of freshly baked bread adds to the relaxed atmosphere. E5 Bakehouse, Arch 395, Mentmore Terrace, London E8 3PH, +44 (0)20 8986 9600, e5bakehouse.com


INTERNATIONAL DELIVERY TO OVER 200 COUN TRIES




G U I D E | 67

GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to London with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the best independent jewellery boutiques to a purveyor of smart, travel-ready clothing. Start with our recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.

PHOTO: MÓNICA R GOYA

A Glimpse of London

SHOP, the world’s leading travel and shopping guide, wants to learn more about you, our readers. To tell us more about yourself, and have the chance to win an iPad Pro, visit globalblue.com/shopsurvey, or scan the QR code.

Above: Big Ben at night: the name Big Ben is often used to describe the tower, the clock and the bell


68 | G U I D E

SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOS: KIRSTY ANDREWS; SALLY ASHLEY-COUND; AMBEROSE HE; MÓNICA R GOYA

‘Come rain or shine, you’ll be cheered by London’s eccentric and surprising beauty’ – Hannah Lewis, SHOP’s features editor

globalblue.com


S H O P | 69

Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopcontent. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!


70 | G U I D E

LONDON MARYLEBONE WARWICK AVENUE EDGWARE ROAD

H A R ROW RD

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PADDINGTON

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ROYAL OAK

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MARBLE ARCH

WAY

H EN AV LANCASTER CR GATE

B AY S W

D ATE R R

QUEENSWAY

PAGE

74

The Long Water

KENSINGTON PALACE

HYDE PARK

Round Pond

The Serpentine SERPENTINE GALLERY Library Bar (Inside The Lanesborough)

K EN SI NG TO N R D

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

D BR

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

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VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM

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GLOUCESTER ROAD

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SL O A N

ROYAL ALBERT HALL

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SAATCHI GALLERY

S T.

Place Of Interest

Train Station

London Underground Station

Bar


S H O P | 71

OO M

T. TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD

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COVENT GARDEN

79

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LEICESTER SQUARE ND RA PICCADILLY ST CIRCUS T. CHARING NS CROSS MY

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PAGE

76

PAGE

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OXFORD CIRCUS

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R D S T. OX F O BOND STREET

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GOODGE STREET

WATERLOO LONDON EYE

WESTMINSTER

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BIG BEN

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72 | G U I D E

TOP 3...JEWELLERY BOUTIQUES Dinny Hall Well-known among Londoners, jeweller Dinny Hall has a new store on King’s Road with a Singles Bar where customers can mix and match stud earrings from the latest collections. Dinny Hall, 182 King’s Road, London SW3 5XP, +44 (0)7940 567520, dinnyhall.com

Jessica de Lotz Watch Jessica de Lotz at work as you browse the cabinets of artfully arranged antique-inspired pieces in her Kentish Town boutique and workshop. Jessica de Lotz, 49 Fortress Road, London NW5 1AD, +44 (0)7958 689591, jdljewellery.co.uk

EC One The award-winning EC One jeweller has launched an exquisite bridal range made by skilled goldsmiths at its Clerkenwell studio. EC One, 41 Exmouth Market, London EC1R 4QL, +44 (0)20 7713 6185, econe.co.uk

Oxford Street (North) CURRYS PC WORLD ●

WATERSTONES ● THE PERFUME SHOP ● ACCESSORIZE ●

MOSS BROS ● ESPRIT ●

AMERICAN APPAREL ●

to ir C o m p a is L ib a n

● LUSH ● H SAMUEL ● MARKS & SPENCER VERO MODA/ ● JACK & JONES

ET

RE ET

ST RE ET

UNIQLO ●

D KEN W E ED E R ● EN OFF

STR E

ST LE ST

DUNE ●

RETRO LONDON JESSOPS SWAROVSKI COOLWAY THE ORANGE SHOP FLIGHT CENTRE

NOEL

JEANS WEST ●

OXFORD STREET

EA STCA

MA RG AR ET

SPORTS DIRECT ●

● ● ● ● ● ●

REET LAY ST D’ARB

ST RE ET

L●

NUD

The Plaza

W EL LS

O AT R

TP . K ST W IC JE A N S ● BER IE FOO

● MUJI

MA R KE T P L .

H&M ●

ALDO ● OFFICE ● RUSSELL & BROMLEY ●

● BOOTS . LI ES ST RA M IL THE

PHOTOGRAPHERS GALLERY

● NEXT ● NEW LOOK ● RIVER ISLAND

SCHUH ● URBAN OUTFITTERS ●

● ZARA ● BERSHKA

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Restaurant

Shopping Centre/Mall


S H O P | 73

Oxford Street (Central) ● BERSHKA

URBAN OUTFITTERS ●

MISS SELFRIDGE ●

● VEL-OH

TOPSHOP/TOPMAN ● NIKETOWN ●

OXFORD STREET

GR EAT PO

R EE T RT LA ND ST

● MANGO ● GAP ● BUREAU DE CHANGE

● TEZENIS

R E G EN

OXFORD CIRCUS

REG EN T ST R EET

R T ST

EET

● BENETTON

H&M ●

● PANDORA ● ECCO

HEN RIE TTA

JO

R IN HN P

C E 'S

S T.

ZARA ● H. SAMUEL ●

● JD SPORTS

PLA CE

CLARKS ● WAREHOUSE ●

● ERNEST JONES ● SALVATION FOOT

GEOX ● THE BODY SHOP ● COAST ●

Cavendish Square Gardens

HO L L ES STR

● CARPISA

Hanover Square

● EE

EET

● ACCESSORIZE

● ALDO ● UNIQLO ● SWATCH ● PULL & BEAR

House Of Fraser

JOHNSTONS ● OF ELGIN

● SWAROVSKI ● NEXT

FOSSIL ● SUNGLASS HUT ●

NE

W

N BO

DS

TR

MONICA VINADER ●

SO

● THORNTONS

COMPTOIR LIBANAIS Specialising in nutritious, fresh Lebanese food, Comptoir Libanias is the perfect place for a lunchtime pit stop when shopping in the Soho area. A stone’s throw from the stores on Oxford Street, the restaurant ofers healthy breakfast, lunch

Featured In This Issue

LINKS OF LONDON ●

Bureau De Change

Debenhams

ST RE E T

JO MALONE ●

EET

● ZARA

T. ES

THE DISNEY STORE ●

London Underground Station

HANDEL HOUSE MUSEUM

● MASSIMO DUTTI

VE R

● VELVET

● RIVER ISLAND

REET

PLA CE

ST RE ET

EET

● MOSS BROS

K ST

H EN R IET TA

WI GM OR E

Meat Liquor

OXFORD STREET

John Lewis

BROO

● TIE RACK

P.79

WE LBE CK STR

● VISION EXPRESS

BHS

H UT

N TE OL M

ET RE ST

BROWNS ● FOCUS

and dinner options as well as items that can be taken away. Sample the delicious hot and cold mezze dishes such as falafel, tabbouleh, humous and ovenbaked fatbreads, or opt for a wrap or salad. Comptoir Libanais, 52 Poland Street, London W1F 7NQ, +44 (0)20 7434 4335, comptoirlibanais.com

Department Store

Global Blue Refund Office


74 | G U I D E

Oxford Street (South)

EAST

ET ● BOOTS ● HMV BUREAU ● DE CHANGE VIVIENNE ● OMEGA ● WESTWOOD

JOHN BELL ● & CROYDEN

Ivy Café

SUNGLASS HUT ● FOREVER 21 ●

BOND STREET OXFORD STREET

H&M ● INTIMISSI ● SPRING STORE ● THE BODY SHOP ●

PHASE EIGHT ●

JA M E S ST

R EE T

GAP ●

ACCESSORIZE ●

THE TOY STORE/ ● BURTON

West One Centre

● BOOTS ● RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● CARPHONE WAREHOUSE ● CAMPER

● SWAROVSKI WATCHES OF FRENCH CONNECTION ● ● SWITZERLAND PENELOPE CHILVERS ● ● AMI JANE NORMAN ●

DU KE ST

RE ET

P.31

● ADIDAS ● WATERSTONES ●3 ● THE PERFUME SHOP ● THE HOUR PASSION

Selfridges ST CHRISTOPHER’S PLACE

● ARABIAN OUD

LES 100 CIELS ●

JAM E S STR E E

DIVERSO ●

SO NY RE ● CE NT

● GROOM

NO RT H

ST. OR CH AR D MARKS & SPENCER ●

AU DL EY

ST.

● ZARA

SCHUH ●

● PANDORA

VODAFONE ●

● BERSHKA

CLARKS ●

Founded in London, East is known for its eclectic designs which take inspiration from around the globe. The label makes good use of colour, print and texture and works in partnership with artisans in diferent countries, adding authenticity to its products which range from block-printed tunics to elaborately beaded necklaces. This season look out for cosy patterned woollen scarves and intricately embroidered and printed long-sleeve dresses. East, 16 The Piazza, London WC2E 8HD, +44 (0)20 7836 6685, east.co.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 78

● RIVER ISLAND

LA SENZA ●

● URBAN OUTFITTERS

CLAIRE’S ● DUNE ● RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● MONSOON ●

PO RT MA N

ST.

PA RK ST

NEXT ●

SUPERDRUG ● BOOTS ●

ET

ANN SUMMERS ● MOTHERCARE ● GEOX ● WALLIS ● TOPSHOP ●

MARBLE ARCH

Global Blue Retailer

● PRIMARK

W

HOLLAND & BARRETT ●

RE ET

NO RT H RO

OX F O R D S T R E

NEW LOOK ●

● BASICS ● EVANS

PA R K LA

NE

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Café

Shopping Centre/Mall


S H O P | 75

Regent Street & Carnaby Street LEVI’S ●

● NIKETOWN ● TOPSHOP/TOPMAN

H&M ●

OXFORD CIRCUS BENETTON ●

OX FO RD ST

● TEZENIS

KAREN MILLEN ● TED BAKER ● APPLE ● LACOSTE ●

REGENT STREE T

FRENCH CONNECTION ●

LONGCHAMP ●

RE ET

● KIKO ● OMEGA ● & OTHER STORIES ● ACCESSORIZE ● ARMANI EXCHANGE

● ALL SAINTS

HOUSE OF ● HANOV ER

HANOVER STREET ● 77 DIAMOND S

MOLTON BROWN ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● MICHAEL KORS ●

● H&M

T SK I H S T R EE SWAR OVTA LL IZ ED OROUG ● CR YS MARLB

BA NA NABL IC ● RE PU

G R E AT

Liberty

CAR

P.36 ● COS FURLA ● ● MISS SIXTY HOBBS ● L STR EET SHA L BARKER ● ● TOMS ● DESIGUAL MAR TUMI ● ADIDAS ORIGINALS ● ET ● FORNARINA E CAMPER ● R ● GAP ● LAMBRETTA ST KIPLING ● THE MAKEUP STORE ● X ● PYLONES DO SIZE? ● CLARKS ● ● PEPE JEANS THE CUBITTS AD IRREGULAR CHOICE ● M ● WORKSHOP ● DIESEL GOLA ● ● THE KOOPLES MUJI ● JUICY THE EAST INDIA COMPANY ● CHURCH’S ● ● COUTURE EL GANSO● ● STORM WESC ● THE PEN SHOP ● ● JAEGER ● OFFICE FERRARI ● ● DAVID AND GOLIATH REPLAY ● ● HAMLEYS GANT ● VIVIENNE ● LEE HILFIGER WESTWOOD BOSE ● DENIM ● ● G-STAR RAW MAN ● T ● HUGO BOSS ● MERC VANS ● EE R T ● ESPRIT S ● MUJI JACK WOLFSKIN ● HENRI LLOYD ● IT U ● HUGO BOSS HAWES & CURTIS ● ● LEVI’S N D ● MACKINTOSH BEN SHERMAN ● ● TRUE RELIGION P.36 T M LEWIN ● ● J CREW CO LEVI’S ● ● THE NORTH FACE ● REISS 7 FOR ALL MAN KIND ● VIVIENNE PUMA ● ● BOOTS ● WESTWOOD THE EXCHANGE GROUP ● SOCCER ● AMERICAN APPAREL CALVIN KLEIN SCENE ● ● JEANS ● EASTPAK ● GUESS ● SWEATY BETTY ● ILLAMASQUA ● HUNTER P.30 JCREW ● ● ANTHROPOLOGIE P.37 ● MASSIMO DUTTI CRABTREE & P.18 EVELYN ●

NAB

Y ST

R EE

T

R EGE

NT ST

R EE T

S AV

LOW

IL E R

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● BROOKS BROTHERS

EET

● MAPPIN & WEBB

● RUSSELL & BROMLEY

ZARA HOME ●

ET

STR

PENHALIGON’S ●

TRE

V IG O

HN S

SWAROVSKI ●

STR

E R JO

● TOMMY HILFIGER

GODIVA ●

ES

LO W

● TIMBERLAND

OXFORDS ●

JA M

OW

L’OCCITANE ● KARL LAGERFELD ●

● T M LEWIN ● FOLLI FOLLIE

EET

ORLEBAR ● BROWN

TOYWATCH ●

BURBERRY ● ● JOSEPH P.29

● THE BODY SHOP ● ZARA ● MANGO

BRE WER S TREE T

REISS ● SUPERDRY ● CLARKS ●

Department Store

London Underground Station

● AUSTIN REED ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT ● MOSS BROS

Featured In This Issue


76 | G U I D E

TM LEWIN TM Lewin has introduced a solution to keep frequent fyers looking smart. The brand’s Infnity Suit is made with long-lasting fabric, is resistant against crushing and creasing and has an open weave so the wearer stays cool and comfortable. For the ultimate fashionable but fuss-free look, we recommend pairing the suit with one of TM Lewin’s Ultimate non-iron shirts, made with 100% fnequality cotton. TM Lewin, 126 Regent Street, London W1B 5SD, +44 (0)20 7287 9870, tmlewin.co.uk

Regent Street & Piccadilly Circus ● FOLLI FOLLIE ● THE BODY SHOP

BR

● ZARA ● MANGO

BRUMMELS OF LONDON ●

GLASSHOUSE S T REET REISS ● SUPERDRY ●

LAIRD & CO HATTERS●

● AUSTIN REED ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT ● MOSS BROS ● UNIQLO ● LUSH ● STEFANEL RE HOLLISTER ● G E ● COACH N T ● NESPRESSO HUNTER ● ● LOTUS S

CLARKS ● LONDON TEXTILE CO ●

ET

YA L RO

TE

E AV

● UGG AUSTRALIA

T S TR

PICCADILLY CIRCUS ● LILLYWHITES

.

Non-Global Blue Retailer

RY

Piccadilly Circus

R EG EN

Global Blue Retailer

D IL LY

BU

AF ● WOLFORD LO W ER

P IC C A P.34

● FRESCOBAL CARIOCA

● ONCE MILANO

DENMAN STREET

B CH ARB INA OU R● S PA RIS HOP ● MI KI ● WH IT T AR D● C MA AMP R Z IO O ● E XC OF L ELLENC OND H AW ON E ES & CURT ● T H E S IS ● T IN G ●

TRE

● NORWEGIAN RAIN

PLACE

BURBERRY ●

D ET YAR RE HAM ST DINOSAUR DESIGN ● ER W E ● WOOLRICH Ham Yard Hotel

S

● TM LEWIN

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TOYWATCH ●

● RUSSELL & BROMLEY

DENM AN

ZARA HOME ● PENHALIGON’S ●

OSPREY LONDON ●

London Underground Station


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Covent Garden Market Hall, King Street, Henrietta Street & Southampton Street

ORIGINAL PENGUIN ●

KURT GEIGER ●

JAM ES STR EET

DIOR ● CHANEL ●

LADURÉE ●

MOLESKIN ● BURBERRY ● LYLE & SCOTT ●

● LUSH ● L’OCCITANE

S O UTHAMP TON STREET

● CRABTREE & EVELYN

Covent Garden Market ● OAKLEY CLUB MONACO ● NIGEL CABOURN ●

● VILEBREQUIN KATHMANDU ●

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● JO MALONE ● STEFANEL

Rules ● OLIVER SWEENEY

M AID EN LA N

● DESTINY

HENRIETTA STREET

PALMS ●

AFRICA CENTRE

Shake Shack

● TRESPASS

RUGBY RALPH LAUREN ●

● AESOP ● JOY ● BRORA

● THE NORTH FACE

BURBERRY ● GODIVA ●

KING STR EE T

APPLE ●

● TEA PALACE

COTSWOLD ●

LINKS ●

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G SHOCK ● CASIO ●

BRIDGES ●

ELLIS BRIGHAM MOUNTAIN SPORTS ●

THE DISNEY STORE ●

● PENHALIGON’S

EET

CARAT ● KABIRI ● PIAZZA ● JAMIE’S ●

BUILD-A-BEAR ●

EXE TER STR EE

LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM

QUIKSILVER ●

TAV IST OCK STR

EAST ●

FRED PERRY ●

PRETTY GREEN ●

PAPERCHASE ●

ROYAL OPERA HOUSE

● MOLTON BROWN

OPENING CEREMONY ● THE SUIT COMPANY ●

● MELISSA

MOSS BROS ●

BEDFORD STREE T

BEIGE Beige curates a selection of on-trend, beautifully made clothing for women who wear UK sizes 14-28. It is known for its stylish edit of specialist international labels including Marina Rinaldi and

Place Of Interest

Hotel

Elena Mirò, stocking pieces for all occasions, from cocktail dresses to of-duty denims and beachwear. Beige, 44 New Cavendish Street, London W1G 8TR, +44 (0)20 7935 3999, beigeplus.com

Restaurant

Featured In This Issue


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Long Acre NE

● RYMAN

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ALL R E● SAINTS AC G N ● ZARA

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ELLIOT RHODES ●

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Dalla Terra

YOTOPIA ●

FRENCH CONNECTION ●

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LO ● HAWES & CURTIS ● BEN SHERMAN ● RAY BAN ● SUNGLASS HUT

ET

GEOX ● MARKS & SPENCER ●

Bill’s

● DUO

COVENT GARDEN

JOULES ● HOBBS ●

● UGG AUSTRALIA ● MUJI

● ECCO REISS ● R E ● LES NEREIDES RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● AC● ASPINAL OF LONDON G GARDEN PHARMACY ● N LO ● REEBOK CALVIN KLEIN ● ● ORIGINAL PENGUIN ● GAP GAP KIDS ● ● H&M ● RABEANCO JACK WOLFSKIN ● ET ● SNOW & ROCK

St. Martin’s Courtyard

RE

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THE WATCH HUT ● COS ● ● ESPRIT BANANA REPUBLIC ● ● TK MAXX BARBOUR ● JACK WILLS ● ● STANFORDS L K BENNETT ●

R LO

ME

● WHISTLES ● PANDORA ● CANDELA ● JIGSAW

JA

MASSIMO DUTTI ●

● MCA ● REISS

KI

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Covent Garden Market

Floral Street & James Street COVENT GARDEN ● SUNGLASS HUT

M

KAREN MILLEN ●

ER CE R ST RE ET

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AC

● OASIS

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JA

PAUL SMITH SHOES ● DUNE ● PAUL SMITH ● TRUE ● ACCESSORIZE CAMPER ● RELIGION ● ● RITUALS P.34 MULBERRY ● ● TED BAKER ● MONSOON T ● ORLEBAR BROWN RADLEY ● E E NICOLE FOSSIL ● ● BOOTS AGNÈS B ● R T ● FARHI S TINTIN SHOP ● L ● THE SANCTUARY R A● AUBIN & WILLS THE BODY SHOP ● PAUL & JOE ● O ● SKECHERS F L ● Y-3 H&M ● SWAROVSKI ●

ME

SS

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BETSEY JOHNSON ●

● NIGEL HALL

ASH ●

N KI

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Covent Garden Market

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

London Underground Station

P.74


S H O P | 79

A ● STR SH OL OP OG SO Y LE BI RK ● EN FI LO ST FA OC X K

Monmouth Street & Neal Street

T EN OO DE EF O BI AR LL TA O B ST ● V I G I V IN DESTINY ● M ● R U Y SP ● ROSSODESIRA F ● S OF OFFICE ● U C ● FO TT LOLLIPOPS PARIS ● ● AR ● MYSTERIES HOTEL CHOCOLAT ● S RH SUPERGA ● NE P.31 MALIN + GOETZ ● CA S ● CRAZY PIG DESIGNS O L ● POP BOUTIQUE ● S EN PY ENERGIE ● ● ORION OC R D LS ● Y R A UA C AC G ● SPEEDO ● M ● COCO DE MER T FARAH ● S N AR RT CE RE PH ● STUART PHILIPS MISS SIXTY ● H O E S B A C NI ● S AC GA L M OR RE ● MILLER HARRIS ● E ?● PA Y TH ● KIEHL’S ZE SEF D I AP ● S O L● N UNCONDITIONAL ● ED J E ● A R A F IC ● ORLA KIELY IB SC E ● ER UR SE WE PEP ● ● M MURDOCK LONDON ● S Z AM UE ● AN FO U E ● JE HU N T OL ING S ● THE LOFT O D A X A OM ● E NI M C R ● D ● WOLSEY OR TO T H E ST A ● ALBAM ● KE LE ● BARACUTTA DI ES EL NI ● ● G-STAR RAW SCRIBBLER ● K GO CA NE LA EN S● FRED PERRY ● ● AN AC ● ER ST RE ET M M P T R HA S T ● EA RL ● PE FI D OW T M ● ● VI UL OU N CA ND DA C L N TO S LA ● ● BA DS ES S ER UR KI N B ● SASSOON GU M TE TH ● ● TI LARSSON CA AR T SE E M U . ● & JENNINGS P.32 ● RE HO E DR A ST OR ● BASE TE ● ST E ON O DEZEEN LT TH OE LD E SUPER STORE ● H ● DRESS CIRCLE A S H ● LONDON GRAPHIC CENTRE LS RA LAURA LEE ● POSTE MISTRESS U T JEWELLERY ● NA ● GUDRUN SJODEN TATTY DEVINE ● COVENT GARDEN ● MARKET ●

OROGOLD COSMETICS ● ● BREAKPOINT

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MO NM OU TH ST

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’S IE ST RD R I T S YA C H H A L’ S Y ● EA IR N DA ●

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Timberyard

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SCREEN FACE ●

FULTON Fulton has been protecting the British public from the rain since 1956 and has such a strong reputation that it also supplies umbrellas to Queen Elizabeth II. The company is known for its chic yet practical patterned umbrellas which will bring a touch of cheer even on a wet winter’s day. John Lewis, 300 Oxford Street, London W1C 1DX, +44 (0)20 7629 7711, fultonumbrellas.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73

Café

Restaurant

Featured In This Issue


80 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP BICESTER VILLAGE Located just an hour from central London, Bicester Village is surrounded by picturesque countryside and is close to the historic city of Oxford. Bicester Village plays host to more than 130 boutiques from leading luxury brands and up-and-coming labels. BICESTER NORTH BICESTER TOWN/ BICESTER VILLAGE

Bicester Village

A41

M40

The architectural design reflects its setting, with low-rise boutiques clustered around an open-air boulevard. Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6WD, +44 (0)1869 366266, bicestervillage.com OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-7pm Saturday: 9am-8pm M1 Sunday: 10am-7pm

A41

M1 M40

M25 M40

LONDON

HOW TO GET THERE By Car

The journey from London takes 60 minutes. Take the M40 motorway to exit nine. Follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester and then follow the signs to Village Retail Park and Bicester Village Outlet Centre. The car park is free. If you are using a satellite navigation system, the postcode is OX26 6WD.

Train Station

Outlet

By Shopping Express

The Shopping Express is the daily* coach service from central London to Bicester Village, one of the world’s premier luxury shopping destinations. *excludes 25 December Ticket prices: Adult return, £28 Child return, £23 (up to 15 years of age)

By Train

Two trains an hour run from London Marylebone to Bicester Village station. The journey can take as little as 46 minutes. Alternatively, four train services an hour run from Marylebone to Bicester North station, where the Bicester Village shuttle bus will whisk you to your favourite boutiques.


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SERVICES The suite of services offered includes the award-winning Bicester Visitor Centre, valet parking, a children’s play area, personal stylists, Hands-free Shopping, a contemplation room, a money-changing facility and instant tax refunds.

DON’T MISS... SHOPPING DAY EXPERIENCE This exclusive package includes:

• Return tickets on the Shopping Express luxury coach service from central London to Bicester Village • A VIP Card providing additional savings in participating boutiques • Hands-free Shopping service where boutique assistants pack your purchases ready for collection later • A two-course lunch or dinner at either Villandry Grand Café or Carluccio’s • £50 Bicester Village Gift Card to spend in the boutiques of your choice

RECENT OPENINGS HUNTER • The Hunter brand, established in 1856, holds royal warrants from both the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh. Discover the Hunter Original and Hunter Field collections in the Bicester Village boutique.

PHOTO: © ANTONIO OLMOS

BALENCIAGA • French fashion house Balenciaga was founded by Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga who opened his first boutique in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1918, and established his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1936.

MY PERFECT DAY SHOP’S COMMERCIAL EDITOR RUAIRIDH PRITCHARD DESCRIBES HOW HE WOULD SPEND A PERFECT DAY AT BICESTER VILLAGE 10am Start your day at Mulberry, a quintessentially British brand with a reputation for balancing creativity and modernity with the traditions of leather craft and manufacture. Mulberry inspires and delights customers across the world. 11am Be sure to stop at Tag Heuer, purveyor of some of the finest Swiss timepieces and the perfect place to pick up some new wristwear. 1pm Stop for lunch at Farmshop. This all-day dining destination from Soho House & Co has been created exclusively for Bicester Village, and combines great food with great design. 3pm A modern American luxury brand rooted in quality and craftsmanship, Coach is synonymous with the ease and sophistication of New York style.




84 | A DV E R T O R I A L

SAMSONITE

From winning Red Dot international design awards to being voted the favourite luggage brand of TripAdvisor travellers for 2016, Samsonite is a leading name in the world of suitcases and travel bags. Snap up one of the brand’s bestselling cases at a discounted price at Samsonite’s Bicester Village store. Founded in 1910, Samsonite has been revolutionising the luggage industry for more than a century. Its super-lightweight yet incredibly durable Curv® suitcases are among Samsonite’s most popular recent innovations, and have become essential kit for international jet-setters. Made from a revolutionary material of the same name, Curv® suitcases are made to withstand typical fying Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86

conditions. They are resistant to impact, lighter and stronger than most hard-shell luggage, and even become tougher as temperatures drop, as they do in the hold of an aeroplane. Most importantly, Samsonite is the only luggage brand using Curv® technology, so you’re sure to stand out from the crowd by investing in one of these suitcases. To browse the range of Curv® suitcases, in addition to selected Samsonite business cases, handbags, travel accessories and weekend bags, be sure to visit the Bicester Village store. Travelling in style has never been so afordable. Bicester Village, 112 Pingle Drive, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6EU, +44 (0)1869 245709, samsonite.co.uk


WOMEN SHAPE THE WORLD WE SHAPE THEIR SHOES

SEE THE NEW 2016 AUTUMN/WINTER COLLECTION IN STORES NOW ECCO OXFORD STREET 445 Oxford Street, W1C 2PP London +44 207 629 10 16

ECCO KNIGHTSBRIDGE 45 Brompton Road, SW3 1DE London +44 207 584 57 37

ECCO OXFORD CIRCUS 261 Oxford Street, W1C 2DE London +44 207 495 47 96

ECCO WESTFIELD Westfeld Shopping Centre, Unit 1114, W12 7GD London +44 208 735 18 30

ECCO COVENT GARDEN 36 Long Acre, WC2E 9JT London +44 207 379 51 45 ECCO KENSINGTON 102 Kensington High Street, W8 4SG London +44 207 938 25 83

ecco.com

ECCO WIMBLEDON Centre Court Shopping Centre, The Broadway, SW19 8ND, London +44 208 947 86 65


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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

2. Claim

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.

Spend a minimum of £30 and save up to 14% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Ofces London Heathrow Terminals 1,2,3,4 & 5 London Gatwick North Terminal London Gatwick South Terminal International Currency Exchange, 339 Oxford Street, London W1C 2JB International Currency Exchange, Westfeld London, Ariel Way, London W12 7GF

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

No 1 Currency, City of London Information Centre, St Paul’s Churchyard, London EC4M 8BX Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL Topshop, 214 Oxford Street, London W1W 8LG 94/ 100

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PHOTO: LOCK & CO. HATTERS

TRANSLATIONS

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 42: Past & Present

Прошлое и настоящее Британские бренды с большой историей переосмысляют свои классические коллекции в духе времени, благодаря чему остаются актуальными в глазах новых покупателей, – рассказывает Харриет Куик Во всем мире бренды появляются и исчезают. На этом фоне Великобритания может похвастаться внушительным количеством компаний-долгожителей, которые специализируются на одежде и аксессуарах. Они придерживаются традиционных ценностей и одновременно globalblue.com

предлагают покупателям вещи в духе времени. Им удается находить свое место в любой исторической эпохе, а некоторые даже привлекают иностранные инвестиции. Но на протяжении всей истории они остаются верными чисто британскому подходу к моде. Holland & Holland – один из таких брендов: он занимается аксессуарами для жизни за городом с 1835 года и продолжает удерживать ведущие позиции. Делами компании управляет Chanel, а обновлением руководят креативный директор Стелла Теннант (муза Карла Лагерфельда, дизайнера Chanel) и стилист и консультант Изабелла Стенхоуп (прежде она работала в британском Vogue). Они дружат уже много лет и


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прекрасно ориентируются в британской загородной жизни, поскольку их дома расположены в дальних землях Шотландии. Свой опыт в моде и врожденное чувство стиля они и привносят в Holland & Holland. Тонкие качественные ткани для их моделей, на которое повлияла мужская одежда, производятся на шотландских твидовых фабриках: «Я чувствую себя как дома в шотландских деревнях. Все эти текстуры и цвета, с которыми мы работаем, заимствованы из природы», – размышляет Стелла Теннант. Она подчеркивает, что все вещи в их коллекции практичны и красивы, а за свое интуитивное чувство вкуса она благодарит бабушку и дедушку – герцога и герцогиню Девонширских. Теннант и Стенхоуп – любительницы путешествий и пеших прогулок. И они сделали страсть к приключениям основой обновленной эстетики Holland & Holland. Коллекция адресована женщинам и мужчинам в равной степени и состоит из функциональных и одновременно красивых вещей: однобортные пиджаки, жилеты с карманами и высокими воротниками, килты, гернсийские свитеры, брюки с завышенной талией, кюлоты и свободные брюки для гольфа. Коллекцию дополняет обувь: прочные кожаные туфли для прогулок (их язычки подворачиваются таким образом, чтобы уберечь от грязи globalblue.com

шнурки), ботинки для походов и твидовые кроссовки в стиле скейтеров. Изабелла Стенхоуп признается, что для нее работа над коллекцией стала «большим делом», а также подчеркивает богатый опыт Стеллы Теннант: «Стелла – превосходный колорист, и она обладает глубокими познаниями в моде». На вопрос об их целях для Holland & Holland они отвечают так: «Должно быть интересно носить эти вещи. Иначе какой в этом смысл?» Бренд верхней одежды Mackintosh специализируется на качественных плащах из фирменной прорезиненной ткани, которую в 1823 году изобрел химик Чарльз Макинтош. Компания внимательно следит за тем, чтобы силуэты и цвета плащей менялись в ногу со временем: обратите внимание на новую белую модель с черными пуговицами, а также на винный, верблюжий и бутылочнозеленый оттенки классических моделей. Mackintosh сотрудничает с ведущими представителями модного мира, в том числе – с молодым дизайнером Джонатаном Уильямом Андерсоном (JW Anderson). А парижский бренд головных уборов Maison Michel помог Mackintosh создать элегантные шляпы, защищающие от дождя, – и это как нельзя кстати в условиях британского климата.


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Другие бренды также охотно участвуют в совместных проектах, чтобы сохранять актуальность своих идей и предложений. Один из них – Sunspel, основанный в Ноттингеме в 1860 году. В наши дни компания работает с самым качественным барбадосским хлопком и чистым джерси, поэтому в магазин бренда на Redchurch Street в Ист-Энде стекаются сведущие в моде лондонцы (и мужчины, и женщины) за повседневными базовыми вещами, в том числе футболками и нижним бельем. В рамках осенней коллекции Sunspel поработал с британской компанией Gloverall, которая с 1950-х специализируется на верхней одежде. Плодом

их совместного труда стало деловое пальто-даффл, которое особенно хорошо смотрится с классическими прошитыми ботинками Church’s или Grenson. Эти бренды невозможно назвать устаревшими. Наоборот, они столь же востребованы, поскольку подают свои классические модели в современном ключе и при этом сохраняют высокий уровень качества, какой можно ожидать только от компаний с подобной историей и статусом. Сложите свои приобретения в черный чемодан с клепками, плод совместного творчества брендов Globe-Trotter (основан в 1897) и Alexander McQueen, – и заберите с собой частичку истинно британской истории.


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Модный шляпочник Магазин головных уборов Lock & Co, открытый более трехсот лет назад, является старейшим в мире и одним из самых лучших, – рассказывает Руайрид Притчард В лондонском Вест-Энде и особенно в районе улицы Сент-Джеймс-стрит (St James’s Street) расположился ряд наиболее респектабельных британских учреждений, от королевской резиденции – Сент-Джеймсского дворца – до лучших в столице ресторанов. Именно здесь находится и самый старинный в мире магазин шляп; в 2016 году эта лондонская легенда празднует свой 340-летний юбилей. В 1676 году шляпных дел мастер Роберт Дэвис открыл магазин на только начавшей набирать популярность СентДжеймс-стрит. Девять лет спустя, в 1686 году, Джордж Лок открыл на той же самой улице кафе. В 1747 году Джеймс Лок, внук Джорджа Лока, устроился подмастерьем к Чарльзу Дэвису, сыну Роберта Дэвиса. В 1765, когда его дочь Мэри вышла замуж за бывшего подмастерье, Чарльз Дэвис передал управление делами Джеймсу Локу, так магазин получил свое нынешнее название: Lock & Co. В последующие годы магазин Lock & Co стал избранным магазином globalblue.com

для сливок британского общества. Среди его клиентов был 19-й премьер-министр Великобритании Уильям Гренвиль и адмирал лорд Нельсон, чья фирменная треуголка с кокардой, известная нам по портретам, была создана именно здесь. Магазин и его хозяева получили большую славу; говорят, что Джеймс Беннинг, эксцентричный член семейства Лок, послужил прототипом Безумного Шляпника из знаменитой книги Льюиса Кэролла «Алиса в стране чудес». На сегодняшний день Lock & Co является обладателем двух королевских патентов, на право

PHOTO: LOCK & CO. HATTERS

50: Top Hatter



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именоваться поставщиком членов королевской семьи, одного от принца Уэльского и второго – от его отца, герцога Эдинбургского. Множество заказов магазин выполнил для торжественной свадьбы герцога и герцогини Кембриджских. Рут Рэйвенскрофт, креативный директор бренда, причиной успеха компании считает преданность корпоративным принципам. «Мы гарантируем первоклассное обслуживание и всегда используем лучшие материалы для создания поистине стильных вещей», – говорит она. Lock & Co гордится своими преданными клиентами, которые могут доверить компании создание предметов для самых важных событий. «Перед началом королевских скачек в Аскоте некоторые клиенты присылают фотографии своих летних гардеробов, – поясняет Рэйвенскрофт. – Мы можем дать им надлежащий совет и подготовить их шляпы к началу мероприятия». Помимо своих традиционных изделий, компания Lock & Co знаменита на весь Лондон своими современными женскими шляпами. «Мы продолжаем использовать традиционные техники производства, но всегда экспериментируем с новыми материалами и формами, – говорит Рэйвенскрофт. – Каждый сезон у нас появляется несколько globalblue.com

новых серий, а модные показы служат для нас источником вдохновения и помогают определиться с актуальной цветовой палитрой. С каждым сезоном мы выпускаем новую капсульную коллекцию, где представляем более авангардные вещи, а также интерпретируем трендовые цвета для наших классических образов. Компания также проводила ряд коллабораций с ведущими лондонскими брендами, включая Vivienne Westwood, Private White VC и Mr Porter. Такая деятельность не только сделала марку Lock & Co более привлекательной, но и поставила перед ней новые задачи. «Сотрудничество с близкими по духу брендами позволяет нам значительно расширить аудиторию, ну и, конечно, приносит массу удовольствия при разработке нового дизайна, – поясняет Рэйвенскрофт. – Скоро у нас состоится очередная совместная работа над капсульной коллекцией мужских вязанных шапок с Johnstons of Elgin – одним из лучших и старейших производителей кашемира. Мы очень рады этой коллаборации, поскольку наши бренды связывает много общего, в том числе королевские патенты и семейный тип бизнеса». Несмотря на обилие новшеств, неизменной популярностью у покупателей


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качестве униформы, например, официальным работникам сельских ярмарок и военным, а также покупателям из Нигера, для которых котелок – это символ статуса, съемочным компаниям и туристам из самых разных стран мира». Независимо от того, какие шляпы вы предпочитаете, будь-то котелок или нечто современное, в коллекциях Lock & Co каждый найдет что-то по вкусу, а 340-летняя история бренда гарантирует, что ваша покупка будет безупречной.

PHOTO: LOCK & CO. HATTERS

пользуется одно из самых старейших изделий компании, а именно шляпа Coke. В 1849 году аристократ Эдвард Кук обратился к главному дизайнеру Lock & Co, Томасу Боулеру, с просьбой создать для него шляпу. Проблема была в том, что обычный цилиндр был довольно неустойчивым и часто падал с головы, поэтому главной задачей было усовершенствовать дизайн. Именно так появился на свет один из самых узнаваемых стилей – овальная шляпакотелок. В английском языке такой вид шляпы стали называть по имени ее создателя – «bowler». Практичность нового ветроустойчивого и прочного дизайна обеспечила новой модели популярность далеко за пределами английских деревень. Котелок можно было заметить у работников Британской железной дороги на западе Америки, и у ковбоев Дикого Запада, и у женщин Южной Америки, а также у многих звезд кинематографии, включая Чарли Чаплина, Патрика Макни из Мстителей и Джона Маклиза из Монти Пайтон. Творение Lock & Co вошло в историю, как шедевр дизайна. По словам Рэйвенскрофт, котелок до сих пор остается главным бестселлером в Lock & Co. «Мы продолжаем продавать котелки местным, которые должны носить их в


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86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free

наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. 美文翻译

42: Past And Present

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум £30 и сэкономьте до 14% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате globalblue.com

过往与当下 英国顶尖的老字号品牌通过对经典 款式的更新换代来吸引更多的新顾 客,Harriet Quick带您了解其背后 的故事 世上那么多品牌来去匆匆,而英国却 拥有一批历史悠久的服装和配饰企 业,它们在推出现代设计的同时,坚守 着传统的价值观。多年以来,这些品 牌展现出强大的适应能力,即使有些 接纳了海外投资,也仍然保持着最为 纯正的英国愿景。 最近被推上风口浪尖的老字号便 是Holland & Holland。该品牌创建 于1835年,为生活在乡村的人士设计 配饰。如今品牌归香奈儿(Chanel)所 有,在模特Stella Tennant和设计师



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兼咨询师Isabella Stanhope的创意指 导下重获新生;前者是香奈儿设计师 Karl Lagerfeld的灵感女神,而后者 曾在英国版Vogue任职。两位女中英 豪是多年的好友,家都在苏格兰偏远 的郊区,对英国的乡村生活颇有见解, 她们把在时尚界摸爬滚打的经验和与 生俱来的个人风格带到了Holland & Holland。 Tennant和Stanhope与苏格兰 花呢作坊的专家强强联手,为她们的 时装研发出精工细纺的面料,而服装 的结构剪裁灵感来自男装。 “苏格兰 的乡村带给我家的感觉, ”Tennant 表 示,她将自己的设计天赋归功于祖父 母德文郡公爵夫妇。 “我们使用的纹 理和颜色都来自大自然, ”这位模特还 强调,系列作品中的一切都将会“既实

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用又美丽”。

Tennant和Stanhope热爱旅行和 徒步,她们将冒险精神注入Holland & Holland的全新设计理念中。她们 的时装既满足了女性顾客的需求,也 包含了男装系列,主打单排扣夹克、多 口袋高领马甲、苏格兰裙、格恩西针 织衫(Guernsey sweater)、高腰裤、 裙裤、袋状高尔夫球裤等实用美观的 服装。另外,还有结实的休闲皮鞋(鞋 舌可以翻折以防鞋带被植物勾住)、 远足靴和溜冰鞋风格的花呢运动鞋等 各类鞋履。 在Stanhope看来,时装系列的设 计是一桩“大事” ,她对Tennant的专 业能力给予了高度评价: “Stella对色 彩的运用游刃有余,而且对时尚颇有 见地。”对Holland & Holland有什么


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PHOTO: HOLLAND & HOLLAND

期许呢,她回答说, “希望给穿着的人 带来乐趣。否则有什么意义呢?” 专业外套品牌Mackintosh使用 化学家Charles Macintosh于1823 年发明的用橡胶处理过的专利面料, 为顾客带来流线型的雨衣。该品牌一 直努力让外套的造型和配色跟上时 代的潮流:饰有黑色扣子的新款纯白 色大衣便是一例,另有波尔多红、驼 色和军绿色供选择。Mackintosh 还 与时尚人物和品牌合作,例如年轻设 计师 JW Anderson 和巴黎女帽品牌 Maison Michel,后者还帮助该品牌 创作了时髦的雨帽(最适合英国阴晴 不定的天气)。 Mackintosh不是唯一一个通 过合作来保持新鲜血液的老字号品 牌。Sunspel创始于1860年的诺丁

汉,如今生产高质量的海岛棉和精美 的针织套衫。该品牌的专卖店位于伦 敦东区的Redchurch Street街,这 里是伦敦时髦男女选购T恤衫和内 衣等日常着装的地方。今年秋天,该 品牌与诞生于上世纪五十年代的英 国大衣品牌Gloverall合作,携手创 造出实用的粗呢外套,与Church’s 或Grenson的传统沿条鞋穿搭最 是登对。 这些品牌远远没有走到穷途末 路,而是顺应潮流,在传统设计的基 础上融入新的理念,同时保持众望 所归的卓越品质。快把这些热门款 式装入全新黑色铆钉手提箱——由 Globe-Trotter(创始于1897年) 和Alexander McQueen合作设 计——将一段英国历史带回家。


50: Top Hatter 堂皇冠冕 有着三百多年制帽历史的Lock & Co 是全世界最古老也是最顶尖的帽饰 品牌,Ruairidh Pritchard带您一 探究竟 在伦敦西区圣詹姆斯街(St James’s Street)附近,您可以觅得众多英国最 负盛名的建筑,这里不仅有王室府邸 圣詹姆斯宫(St James’s Palace),还 荟萃了全伦敦最高档的餐厅。此外还 有一个声名显赫的名字便是 Lock & Co,世界上历史最悠久的帽店。2016 年,这个传奇品牌迎来了它在伦敦的 第340个年头。 1676年,帽匠Robert Davis在刚 刚盛行起来的圣詹姆斯街开设了一家 店铺。9年后的1686年,George Lock 在同一条街上开了一家咖啡店。1747 年,George Lock的孙子James Lock 拜入Robert之子Charles Davis门 下。1765年,Charles Davis的女儿 Mary与他曾经的爱徒结婚,并将店铺 的钥匙交给了James Lock,于是帽店 便有了今天的名字:Lock & Co。 在接下来的岁月里,Lock & Co 渐渐融入英国上流社会,成为备受 名流贵族青睐的帽饰品牌。它的顾 客包括19世纪首相格伦维尔勋爵 (Lord Grenville)和上将尼尔森勋 爵(Admiral Lord Nelson),后者

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画像中标志性的三角帽和帽徽都出自 这家帽店。这个品牌及其背后经营的 家族已是无人不知。James Benning 是 Lock家族的“怪人” ,据说他就是 Lewis Carroll的著名儿童读物《爱 丽丝梦游仙境》中“疯帽子” (Mad Hatter)的原型。 如今,Lock & Co拥有两道“御 赐金牌”——一道来自威尔士亲王, 另一道来自其父爱丁堡公爵——许多 在剑桥公爵夫妇婚礼上亮相的帽子也 是出自该品牌之手。在品牌创意总监 Ruth Ravenscroft的眼里,Lock & Co的长盛不衰要归功于其对立店之 本的坚守。 “我们为顾客提供最优质 的服务,选用最上等的材料,打造最经 典的式样, ”她说道。Lock & Co的顾 客非常忠诚,坚信他们的团队能够为 最重要的场合量身打造出最合适的款 式。 “在忙碌的阿斯科特赛马会来临 之前,一些顾客会把他们的夏装照片 发送给我们, ”Ravenscroft解释道。 “ 我们会给他们一些建议,并在赛马会 来临之前把帽子准备好。” 让Lock & Co自豪的是,他们在 很多方面保持了自己的传统,但仍然 是伦敦最受推崇的当代女帽品牌之 一。 “我们仍然使用传统的女帽制作 工艺,但不断尝试着新的材料和款 式, ”Ravenscroft 表示。 “我们每个 季度都会创作一些新模型,经常从秀 场上的当季主打色彩中获取灵感。每 个季度,我们都会推出一个微缩系列 (capsule collection),既包含与众 不同、前卫时尚的款式,也会在传统款 式的基础上演绎当季主打色彩。” 团队还与Vivienne Westwood、Private White VC和 Mr Porter等顶尖伦敦时装品牌展 开合作,不仅增加了Lock & Co的 吸引力,还带来了激动人心的全新挑 战。 “通过与志同道合的品牌合作,我 们能接触到不同的客源,真正享受设 计帽饰的乐趣, ”Ravenscroft如是

PHOTOS: LOCK & CO. HATTERS

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说道。 “接下来,我们将和全世界品 质最优、历史最悠久的开司米制造商 Johnstons of Elgin合作,推出一款男 士无檐便帽微缩系列。我们对本次合 作感到万分激动,两家品牌都是王室 授权品牌和家族企业,期待两者能够 碰撞出耀眼的火花。” Lock & Co最受欢迎单品当 属“Coke” (音同“cook ”),它历史 悠久。1849年,贵族Edward Coke 找到Lock & Co首席帽匠Thomas Bowler订做一顶新帽子。他希望在传 统礼帽上做些改动,因为他手下的猎 场看守人在诺福克庄园工作时头上的 礼帽总是下滑。耐用的椭圆形“Coke” , 即众人熟知的圆顶硬礼帽(bowler)

便应运而生,它至今依旧是最有辨识 度的帽款之一。实用、防风、耐磨的特 性让这款帽子在英国乡村之外的地方 同样大受欢迎。在美国西部劳作的英 国铁路工人、西部荒原的不法分子、 南美女郎乃至于银屏上的影星,包括 无声电影巨星查理·卓别林(Charlie Chaplin)、 《复仇者》里的帕特里克· 麦克尼(Patrick Macnee)以及巨蟒 剧团(Monty Python)里的约翰· 克里斯( John Cleese),都对这顶帽 子青睐有加,它堪称Lock & Co的旷 世杰作。 据Ravenscroft介绍, “Coke”依 旧是 Lock & Co旗下最畅销的款式之 一。 “我们把圆顶硬礼帽卖给市政工


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‫وشكات الفلم ومجموعة واسعة من الس ّواح‬ ‫من حول العال الراغبي بشاء قطعة من تاريخ‬ ‫بغض النظر إن كانت قبّعة ‪Coke‬‬ ‫‪ّ ".Lock‬‬ ‫تروقك أم ل أو كنت تبحث عن تصميم عصي‬ ‫حق‪ ،‬عندما يتعلّق المر بالق ّبعات‪ ،‬ل ب ّد أن‬ ‫عن ّ‬ ‫تكون أي قبّعة من ‪ Lock & Co‬خيارا ً ممتازا ً‬ ‫بفضل ‪ 340‬عاماً من الريادة ف هذا الجال‪.‬‬ ‫‪86: When You Shop The‬‬ ‫‪World, Shop Tax Free‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع‬ ‫الضيبة‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة‬ ‫التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة ‪Tax Free‬‬ ‫لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من ‪300,000‬‬ ‫متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين‬ ‫يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك إل أن‬ ‫بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد‬ ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو ‪Global Blue‬‬ ‫الضيبة ّ‬ ‫وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب‬ ‫الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل‬ ‫إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫الستداد ّ‬ ‫للت ّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ £30‬وادّخر حتّى ‪14%‬‬

‫من ثن مشتياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ‬ ‫الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة‬ ‫الضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬ف بعض الطارات‪،‬‬ ‫يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد‬ ‫ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد‬ ‫فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫‪作人员、郡法院法官和军队,他们将礼‬‬ ‫‪帽作为制服的一部分。此外我们的顾‬‬ ‫‪客群中还有将礼帽视为身份象征的尼‬‬ ‫‪日利亚顾客、电影公司以及各种渴望‬‬ ‫‪拥有一份Lock记忆的各国游客。”不‬‬ ‫‪管您是对“Coke”一见钟情,还是想‬‬ ‫‪寻找更加时尚的款式,如果想选购帽‬‬ ‫‪子,作为340年帽业顶尖品牌的Lock‬‬ ‫。‪& Co都是您的不二之选‬‬

‫‪86: When You Shop The‬‬ ‫‪World, Shop Tax Free‬‬ ‫‪畅购全球,尊享退税‬‬ ‫‪当您在全球顶级购物区中的30多万‬‬ ‫‪家商店消费时,环球蓝联(Global‬‬ ‫‪Blue)购物退税服务(Tax Free‬‬ ‫。‪Shopping)为您节约购物开销‬‬ ‫‪每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球‬‬ ‫‪蓝联(Global Blue)获得购物退税,‬‬ ‫‪您怎能错过?您要做的只是寻找蓝星‬‬ ‫‪标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联‬‬ ‫‪(Global Blue)服务,然后遵循我们简‬‬ ‫‪单的退税过程:‬‬

‫‪1. 消费购物‬‬ ‫‪无论您在哪里消费,请索要环球蓝联‬‬ ‫‪退税表格(Global Blue Tax Free‬‬ ‫。‪Form),并记得保存小票‬‬ ‫‪2. 申请退税‬‬ ‫‪当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发城‬‬ ‫‪市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格‬‬ ‫‪上盖章,然后再到环球蓝联的退税点‬‬ ‫。‪领取您的退税款‬‬ ‫‪联系方式:‬‬ ‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫‪最低消费£30即可节省高达购买价格‬‬ ‫‪14%的税。请注意:最终退款将包含‬‬ ‫‪增值税总额,但是要扣除管理手续‬‬ ‫‪费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单‬‬ ‫。‪位收取现金退税手续费‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬


‫‪101‬‬

‫فرصة الوصول إل أشخاص مختلفي والستمتاع‬ ‫حق بتصميم الق ّبعات‪ .‬سنتعاون قريباً مع‬ ‫عن ّ‬ ‫‪ ،Johnstons of Elgin‬أفخر وأعرق علمة‬ ‫لصناعة الكشمي ف العال‪ ،‬وذلك ضمن مجموعة‬ ‫مصغّرة من الق ّبعات الصوف ّية الرجال ّية‪ .‬نحن‬ ‫ج ّدا ً متح ّمسون بشأن هذا التعاون نتيجة التآزر‬ ‫كل واحدة‬ ‫الرائع بي العلمتي‪ ،‬أضف إل أ ّن ّ‬ ‫منهم تحمل ضمناً ملك ّياً وتديرها العائلة‬ ‫الؤسسة‪".‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ويبقى البتكار الشهر لدى & ‪Lock‬‬ ‫‪ Co‬هو أحد أقدم تصاميمها ‪( Coke‬ويُلفَظ‬ ‫"كوك")‪ .‬فسنة ‪ ،1849‬قصد ‪Edward‬‬ ‫‪ Coke‬النبيل صانع الق ّبعات العل ف ‪Lock‬‬ ‫‪ & Co‬واسمه ‪ Thomas Bowler‬لطلب‬ ‫قبّعة جديدة‪ .‬أراد تصميمً أفضل من القبّعات‬ ‫تكف عن السقوط عن‬ ‫العالية التقليديّة التي ل ّ‬ ‫رؤوس ح ّراس طرائده ف خلل عملهم ف أرضه‬ ‫ف ‪ .Norfolk‬فكانت النتيجة ق ّبعة ‪Coke‬‬ ‫البيضاويّة التينة العروفة بقبّعة الرامي‪ ،‬وما‬

‫زالت حتّى اليوم من أشهر القبّعات‪.‬‬ ‫ونظرا ً لا يتمتّع به هذا التصميم التي‬ ‫القاوم للهواء من عمليّة‪ ،‬لقى رواجاً خارج‬ ‫الريف النكليزي أيضاً‪ .‬فاعتمر هذه القبّعة‬ ‫عمل سكك الحديد البيطان ّيون ف أميكا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الغربيّة واعتمدها الخارجون عن القانون‬ ‫ف النطقة نفسها بالضافة إل نساء أميكا‬ ‫الجنوب ّية ونجوم الشاشة الفض ّية بن فيهم‬ ‫أيقونة الفلم الصامتة ‪Charlie Chaplin‬‬ ‫و‪ Patrick Macnee‬من فيلم ‪The‬‬ ‫‪ Avengers‬و‪ John Cleese‬من ‪Monty‬‬ ‫‪ .Python‬فاعتب ابتكار ‪Lock & Co‬‬ ‫تحف ًة فن ّية ف مجال التصميم‪ .‬وبحسب‬ ‫‪ ،Ravenscroft‬ما زال ‪ Coke‬من التصاميم‬ ‫الكث مبيعاً لدى ‪" .Lock & Co‬ما زلنا نبيع‬ ‫عمل ال ُدن والشخاص الذين‬ ‫ق ّبعات الرامي إل ّ‬ ‫يعتمرونها كجزء من زيّهم عل سبيل حكّام‬ ‫معارض الزارعي والجيش وكذلك إل الزبائن‬ ‫النيجييّي الذين يعتبونها دللة إل مكانتهم‬

‫‪PHOTO: LOCK & CO. HATTERS‬‬


‫‪102‬‬

‫والدميال ‪ Lord Nelson‬الذي اشتهر بقبّعته‬ ‫العكوفة الزوايا وشارة ق ّبعته‪ ،‬كم يظهر ف‬ ‫الحل‪ .‬وسعان ما أضحى‬ ‫الرسوم‪ ،‬البتكرة ف ّ‬ ‫الحل وأربابه ذائعي الصيت؛ يُقال إ ّن ‪James‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ ،Benning‬الفرد الغريب الطوار ف عائلة‬ ‫‪ ،Lock‬أوحى بشخصيّة صانع القبّعات الجنون‬ ‫‪ Mad Hatter‬ف ‪Alice’s Adventures‬‬ ‫‪ ،in Wonderland‬كتاب الطفال الشهي لـ‬ ‫‪.Lewis Carroll‬‬ ‫واليوم‪ ،‬يتمتّع ‪ Lock & Co‬بضمنَي‬ ‫ملكيّي‪ ،‬واحد من أمي ‪ Wales‬والثان من‬ ‫والده دوق ‪ ،Edinburgh‬وقد ابتكر الكثي‬ ‫من الق ّبعات التي اعتُمرت ف حفل زفاف‬ ‫دوق ودوقة ‪ .Cambridge‬وترى ‪Ruth‬‬ ‫‪ ،Ravenscroft‬الديرة البتكاريّة للعلمة‪ ،‬أ ّن‬ ‫نجاح الشكة الستم ّر عائد إل التزامها ببادئ‬ ‫تأسيسها‪ .‬تقول ف هذا الصدد‪" :‬نؤمن بخدمة‬ ‫الزبائن الفائقة ونستخدم أفخر الواد لبتداع‬ ‫أفضل الساليب"‪ .‬زبائن ‪ Lock & Co‬أوفياء‬ ‫ويعرفون أنّه بإمكانهم التعويل عل فريق‬ ‫العمل للحصول عل ما يريدونه بالضبط له ّم‬ ‫الناسبات‪ .‬تشح ‪" :Ravenscroft‬قبل موسم‬ ‫الناسبات ف ‪ ،Ascot‬يرسل لنا بعض الزبائن‬

‫صور ملبسهم الصيفيّة‪ ،‬فنسدي إليهم النصائح‬ ‫يحل‬ ‫ونعمل عل ق ّبعاتهم لتكون جاهزة عندما ّ‬ ‫الوسم‪".‬‬ ‫تفتخر علمة ‪ Lock & Co‬بأسلوبها‬ ‫التقليدي عل عدّة ُص ُعد‪ ،‬لك ّنها كذلك من‬ ‫ألع مز ّودي القبّعات العصيّة ف لندن‪ .‬تقول‬ ‫‪" :Ravenscroft‬ما زلنا نستخدم التقنيّات‬ ‫التقليديّة لصناعة الق ّبعات‪ ،‬لك ّننا نختب أيضاً‬ ‫كل موسم عددا ً‬ ‫موادا ً وأشكالً جديدة‪ .‬نبتكر ّ‬ ‫من القوالب وغالباً ما نستوحي اللوان الساس ّية‬ ‫كل‬ ‫منصات عرض الزياء‪ .‬فنصنع ّ‬ ‫للموسم من ّ‬ ‫موسم مجموعة مصغّرة من القطع الخارجة‬ ‫عن الألوف والحدّدة للموضة ونط ّبق اللوان‬ ‫والبتكارات الرائجة عل تصاميمنا الكث‬ ‫كلسيكيّة‪".‬‬ ‫تجدر الشارة إل تعاون فريق العمل مع‬ ‫بعض أبرز السمء ف عا’ الزياء ف لندن‪ ،‬بن‬ ‫فيهم ‪ Vivienne Westwood‬و‪Private‬‬ ‫‪ White VC‬و‪ .Mr Porter‬بالتال‪ ،‬ل يزيد‬ ‫ذلك من تألّق ‪ Lock & Co‬فحسب‪ ،‬بل‬ ‫يطرح الزيد من التحدّيات الثية للهتمم‪.‬‬ ‫تشح ‪ Ravenscroft‬قائلة‪" :‬من شأن‬ ‫التشارك مع علمات أخرى شبيهة لنا أن يتيح لنا‬

‫‪PHOTOS: LOCK & CO. HATTERS‬‬

‫‪globalblue.com‬‬



‫‪104‬‬

‫للسفر الحفوف بالجرأة والش‪ ،‬أدخلتا‬

‫روح الغامرة إل قلب أسلوب ‪Holland‬‬ ‫‪ & Holland‬الجم’ الجديد‪ .‬تستهدف‬

‫تصاميمهم النساء والرجال عل ح ّد سواء وتشمل‬ ‫بصف واحد‬ ‫قطعاً عمل ّية و ُملفتة عل سبيل ستة ّ‬ ‫من الزرار وجيليه متعدّدة ال ِجيَب وعالية الياقة‬ ‫وت ّنورة اسكتلنديّة للرجال وكنزة ‪Guernsey‬‬ ‫وسوال عا’ الخص وسوال نسائ فضفاض لح ّد‬ ‫الركبة وسوال بأسلوب ملبس كرة الغولف‪ .‬أ ّما‬ ‫ف تشكيلة الحذية‪ ،‬فث ّمة أحذية جلديّة للمش‬ ‫طي اللّسان للخلف لتفادي تشابك‬ ‫(حيث يكن ّ‬ ‫الشطة بالعشب الطويل) وجزامي للسي ف‬ ‫الجبال وأحذية رياض ّية رائجة من التويد‪.‬‬ ‫تصف ‪ Stanhope‬تطوير الجموعة بـ‬ ‫"النجاز الكبي" وتشيد بخبة ‪ Tennant‬قائلة‪:‬‬ ‫"تبع ‪ Stella‬ف اختيار اللوان وتتمتّع بعرفة‬ ‫مع ّمقة ف الزياء‪ ".‬تطمح السيّدتان لتعزيز‬ ‫‪ Holland & Holland‬فتقولن‪" :‬عل‬ ‫الشخص أن يفرح بارتدائها وإل ما الغاية منها؟"‬ ‫الختصة باللبس‬ ‫أ ّما ‪Mackintosh‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الخارج ّية فتصنع العاطف الواقية من الطر‬ ‫من قمش مطّاطي خاص بها‪ ،‬ابتكره الكيميائ‬ ‫‪ Charles Macintosh‬سنة ‪ .1823‬وقد‬ ‫حرصت عل تغيي تصاميم معاطفها وألوانها مع‬ ‫الزمن‪ :‬ث ّة موديل جديد باللّون البيض والزرار‬ ‫السوداء‪ ،‬بالضافة إل خيارات أخرى تشمل‬ ‫تد ّرجات ألوان الخمري والخرد’ والخض‪.‬‬ ‫تتعاون الشكة مع أسمء من عال الزياء با‬ ‫فيها الص ّمم اليافع ‪ JW Anderson‬وصانع‬ ‫القبّعات الباريس ‪ Maison Michel‬الذي‬ ‫ساعد العلمة عل ابتكار أجمل القبّعات الواقية‬ ‫من الطر (التي ل ب ّد أن يكث استخدامها نظرا ً‬ ‫للمناخ البيطان البارد والمطر)‪.‬‬ ‫غي أ ّن ‪ Mackintosh‬ليست العلمة‬ ‫التجاريّة العريقة الوحيدة التي تتعاون مع‬ ‫آخرين للمحافظة عل حداثة ابتكارتها‪ .‬ث ّة أيضاً‬ ‫تأسست ف ‪Nottingham‬‬ ‫‪ Sunspel‬التي ّ‬ ‫سنة ‪ 1860‬وتنتج اليوم قطناً عا’ الجودة‬ ‫من صنف جزر البحر وقمش جيسيه فاخرا ً‪.‬‬ ‫يشكّل متجر الشكة ف شارع ‪ Redchurch‬ف‬ ‫القسم الشقي من الدينة‪ ،‬مكاناً يقصده الرجال‬ ‫والنساء ذوو السلوب الم ّيز ليشتوا قطع اللبس‬ ‫الساسيّة عل سبيل التيشيتس واللبس الداخلية‪.‬‬ ‫وقد تعاونت هذا الخريف مع الشكة البيطانيّة‬

‫‪ Gloverall‬التي تصنع اللبس الخارجيّة منذ‬ ‫الخمسينات‪ ،‬لتبتكر معطفاً صوف ّياً عمل ّياً بأزرا ٍر‬ ‫عل هيئة مسامي‪ ،‬يكن تنسيقه مع حذاء‬ ‫تقليدي مبطّن من ‪ Church’s‬أو ‪.Grenson‬‬ ‫كل ال ُبعد عن ال ِقدَم‪،‬‬ ‫إنّها علمات بعيدة ّ‬ ‫تضمن تألّقها الدائم من خلل ابتكار تصاميم‬ ‫كلسيكيّة تط ّعمها بأفكا ٍر جديدة مع الحافظة‬ ‫عل الجودة الرتقبة من هكذا شكات‪ .‬لذا‬ ‫وضّ ب هذه القطع ف الحقيبة السوداء الجديدة‪،‬‬ ‫(تأسست‬ ‫ثرة التعاون بي ‪ّ Globe-Trotter‬‬ ‫سنة ‪ )1897‬و‪،Alexander McQueen‬‬ ‫لتحمل معك إل الديار قطعة من التاريخ‬ ‫البيطان‪.‬‬ ‫‪Top Hatter: 50‬‬

‫أبرع صانع ق ّبعات‬

‫بفضل تاري ٍخ يزيد عن ثلثة قرون ف مجال‬ ‫صناعة القبّعات‪ ،‬يستحيل ‪ Lock & Co‬أقدم‬ ‫محل قبّعات ف العال وواحدا من أفضلها‪ ،‬تقرير‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪Ruairidh Pritchard‬‬

‫الؤسسات البيطانيّة البارزة ف‬ ‫تقع بعض ّ‬ ‫شارع ‪ St James‬ف الجزء الشقي من لندن‬ ‫أو ف محيطه‪ ،‬من القص اللك ‪St James’s‬‬ ‫‪ Palace‬إل بعض أفخر الطاعم ف العاصمة‪.‬‬ ‫ومن هذه السمء الراقية ‪ ،Lock & Co‬وهو‬ ‫محل قبّعات ف العال؛ يحتفل بعيده الـ‬ ‫أقدم ّ‬ ‫‪ 340‬سنة ‪.2016‬‬ ‫سنة ‪ ،1676‬افتتح صانع القبّعات‬ ‫‪ Robert Davis‬محلً ف شارع ‪St James‬‬ ‫الثي للهتمم‪ .‬وبعد تسع سنوات سنة ‪،1686‬‬ ‫افتتح ‪ George Lock‬مقهى ف الشارع‬ ‫نفسه‪ .‬وسنة ‪ ،1747‬تد ّرج ‪James Lock‬‬ ‫حفيد ‪ George Lock‬لدى ‪Charles‬‬ ‫‪ ،Davis‬إبن ‪ .Robert Davis‬وعندما‬ ‫تز ّوجت ابنته ‪ Mary‬من التد ّرج السابق لديه‬ ‫سنة ‪ ،1765‬أوكل ‪ Charles David‬أعمله‬ ‫محل القبّعات‬ ‫إل ‪ James Lock‬ومذّاك ُس ّم َي ّ‬ ‫‪.Lock & Co‬‬ ‫ف السنوات التي تلت‪ ،‬بات & ‪Lock‬‬ ‫الحل الذي يقصده أبرز أعيان الجتمع‬ ‫‪ّ Co‬‬ ‫البيطان الراقي‪ .‬نذكر من زبائنه ف القرن‬ ‫التاسع عش رئيس الوزراء ‪Lord Grenville‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬


‫‪105‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪Past & Present:‬‬

‫الاض والحاض‬

‫العلمات التجاريّة البيطانيّة العريقة تُط ّور‬ ‫تصاميمها الخالدة لتُ ِ‬ ‫ناسب الزبائن الجدد‪ ،‬تقرير‬ ‫‪Harriet Quick‬‬

‫كثي ٌة هي العلمات التجاريّة حول العال التي‬ ‫تظهر ث ّم تختفي‪ ،‬أ ّما بريطانيا‪ ،‬فتتمتّع بقائة‬ ‫الختصة باللبس‬ ‫ُملفتة من الشكات التاريخيّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫والكسسوارات؛ تحافظ عل القيم التقليديّة‬ ‫صحيح أنّه‬ ‫وتقدّم تصاميم عصيّة ذات صلة‪.‬‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫عل م ّر السني ونتيجة الستثمر الجنبي‪ ،‬تكيّفت‬ ‫تسكت برؤية‬ ‫هذه الشكات مع ما حولها‪ ،‬لك ّنها ّ‬ ‫بريطانيّة بحتة‪.‬‬ ‫من الشكات العريقة التي تبز عل‬ ‫الساحة شكة ‪ Holland & Holland‬التي‬ ‫تأسست سنة ‪ 1835‬كمز ّود أكسسوارات لسكّان‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الرياف‪ .‬الن وقد باتت ملكاً لـ ‪،Chanel‬‬

‫يجري العمل عل إعادة صياغتها تحت الشاف‬ ‫البتكاري للعارضة ‪( Stella Tennant‬وهي‬ ‫أيضاً مصدر إلهام ‪ ،Karl Lagerfeld‬مص ّمم‬ ‫منسقة‬ ‫‪ )Chanel‬و‪ّ Isabella Stanhope‬‬ ‫اللبس والستشاريّة التي عملت لدى ‪British‬‬ ‫‪ .Vogue‬تجمع السيّدتي صداقة منذ عدّة‬ ‫سنوات وهم خبيتان بحياة الريف البيطانيّة‬ ‫كل منهم منزل ف مناطق بعيدة من‬ ‫ولدى ّ‬ ‫اسكتلندا‪ .‬ومن هنا تحملن خبتهم بالزياء‬ ‫وأسلوبهم الم ّيز إل ‪.Holland & Holland‬‬ ‫تجدر الشارة ف هذا السياق إل تعاون‬ ‫‪ Tennant‬و‪ Stanhope‬مع خباء بغازل‬ ‫تويد اسكتلنديّة لصنع أقمشة مناسة لتصاميمهم‬ ‫الستوحاة من اللبس الرجاليّة‪ .‬تقول‬ ‫‪ Tennant‬التي ت ُعزي ولعها بالسلوب الجميل‬ ‫إل جدّيها‪ ،‬دوق ودوقة ‪" :Devonshire‬أشعر‬ ‫أنّني فعلً ف منزل الخاص عندما أكون ف الريف‬ ‫كل القمشة واللوان التي نعمل بها‬ ‫السكتلندي‪ّ .‬‬ ‫كل‬ ‫مستوحاة من الطبيعة‪ ".‬وتضيف العارضة أ ّن ّ‬ ‫شء ف الجموعة سيكون "عمليّاً وجميلً"‪.‬‬ ‫حب ‪ Tennant‬و‪Stanhope‬‬ ‫ونتيجة ّ‬

‫‪PHOTO: GIULIO CASTELLI PHOTOGRAPHY‬‬


106 | P RO D U C T S

SOUVENIR

RIDING HIGH The new fragrance by Jo Malone’s Jo Loves label has been inspired by horse riding, one of Malone’s favourite passions, and is perfect for the autumn and winter. Referencing soft leather gloves, wood and smoke, this raw and earthy fragrance features the aroma of sweet plum liqueur, Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86

smoky cedar wood and cinnamon. Malone is well known for her wonderful perfumes, and her brand Jo Loves creates must-have fragrances season after season. fm Jo Loves Smoked Plum & Leather fragrance, 100ml, £110, Jo Loves, 42 Elizabeth Street, London SW1W 9NZ, +44(0)20 7730 8611, joloves.com




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