SHOP Milan SS17

MILAN | 米兰 | МИЛАН | ミラノ

MILAN Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2017

Page 64 CULTURE CLUBS: discover the city’s world-leading fashion and design spaces

The Spirit of Travel

louisvuitton.com

Me and my Paul&Shark.

Tom Strangwick producer

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 16

EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫أملانيا‬ 德国

Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul

Welcome to Milan

Italy

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this world-renowned centre of style and design. Milan has much to offer, as our guide on page 102 reveals. Readers who are interested in the latest from Italian fashion labels will enjoy our feature on page 74, and in this issue we also explore some of the city’s best restaurants. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Milan. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without filling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

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Maurizio Cattelan in MILANO - Via Monte Napoleone, 6 - Ph. +39 02 76280508 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; La Rinscente Piazza Duomo, 3 - Ph +39 02 72094547 shop at santonishoes.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Joanna McGinn As well as writing, Joanna McGinn is a lecturer in fashion journalism and cultural history. For SHOP Milan this season she has researched the city’s fashion and design spaces for our cover feature In The Know. globalblue.com

Hannah Lewis SHOP’s features editor Hannah Lewis read English literature and language at the University of Oxford before studying for an MA at the London College of Fashion. She has previously produced her own magazine in London.

Beth Druce Beth Druce is a fashion writer, and also works as a consultant for luxury companies. She has an MA from Central Saint Martins in London and has used her fashion expertise to report on the trends to look out for in Milan this season.

ILLUSTRATION: MATTEO BERTON; PHOTO: (MIDDLE) KATIE WILSON ELL

Matteo Berton Illustrator Matteo Berton created the cover illustration for this season’s edition of SHOP Milan. His colourful, architecturally focused artwork made him the perfect choice. Matteo has created a hub depicting some of Milan’s best design museums and spaces, in relation to our cover feature (see page 64). His previous clients include the New York Times, Liberty London and Moleskine. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Matteo Berton Contributors Beth Druce, Maria Kirchen-Hill, Joanna McGinn Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion assistant Rebecca Rhys-Evans News editor Ginger Rose Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworker Milkha Lala Artworker Samantha Junak Artworking assistants Shirley Lau, Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Natalie Schroeter AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

G L O B A L B L U E I TA LY Country manager Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales managers Antonella Bertossi, Flavio Gatti Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Marketing coordinator Alberta Reinach Sales key account manager Stefano Cardinale Sales account manager Marco Cavalli Global account managers Simone Borgheresi, Sabrina Schiavone, Salvatore Smith Key account managers Benedetta Andreini, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Manuela Intili, Consuelo Murari, Marco Savino Account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Laura Durante, Giorgia Faro, Attilio Fioritti, Gabriele Giuntini, Diana Martin, Sonia Mura, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Giordano Senzacqua, Laura Vitale Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2017 Global Blue

CONTENTS PAGE

PAGE

PRODUCTS 24

Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Milan this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of Milan’s best dressed this season

NEWS 44

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Milan

News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products In Store … … with Giuseppe Santoni at Santoni on Via Montenapoleone

FEATURES 64

Cover story:

In The Know For cultural spaces with fashion and design at their core, nowhere is better than Milan. Joanna McGinn selects the places to seek out

Above (from left): interior of Casadei’s restyled flagship store; Fendi spring/summer 2017

Back To The Future Italy’s leading fashion houses are looking to past decades to create today’s collections. Beth Druce reports Lasting Style Luisa Spagnoli has been creating beautiful Italian-made clothing for more than 85 years. Hannah Lewis finds out about this thriving label

PHOTO: (RIGHT) © GORUNWAY.COM

MIRANDA KERR LOS ANGELES, SEPTEMBER 2016 MARELLA.COM MILANO CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE CORSO XXII MARZO 4

CONTENTS

PAGE

EXPERIENCE

ESSENTIALS

130 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

Table Talk Milan’s modern restaurants offer dishes which are clever, inventive and delicious. Maria Kirchen-Hill samples some of the best Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

GUIDE

TRANSLATIONS 132 美文翻译 137 Русский Перевод 142 日本語翻訳

SOUVENIR 146 The essential item to bring home

102 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Milan

E NGL IS H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE... Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru globalblue.cn 每日更新精品购物信息，分享海外省钱秘笈 FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- GlobalBlue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent

Above: inside the stunning Carlo e Camilla restaurant

PHOTOS (FROM TOP): CHICO DE LUIGI; MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

Milano

corso Vittorio Emanuele

iblues.it

MAKING WAVES The Mermaid collection by Italian jeweller Cristina Ortiz has been inspired by real and fictional sea creatures. This stunning pair of earrings, made with 18-carat rose gold and featuring four-carat ruby droplets, look like delicate star fish. Ortiz is known for

her bold and daring high jewellery creations which often replicate mythical creatures encrusted in gold, diamonds and other precious stones. Born in Spain and living in Italy, Ortiz was previously creative director at Prada, Brioni and Lanvin. She launched her own line in 2013 with a focus on intricate and feminine statement

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pieces. To her, jewellery is not an accessory, but an extension of our identity, and her creations are certainly one of a kind. fm Cristina Ortiz earrings, â&#x201A;Ź14,375, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, cristinaortiz.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 122

PHOTO: STUDIO GASTL DI MICHELE GASTL & C. S.A.S.

CH ECK OUT

26 | P R O D U C T S

BON VOYAGE

Colour clash your accessories to be on trend when travelling this season 1 4

1. Frends headphones, €219, Excelsior, Galleria del Corso 4, 20100 Milan, +39 02 7630 7301, frends.com

3. Canon camera, from €309.99, New Old Camera, Via Rovello 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3658 9216, canon.it

2. Moleskine Smart Writing set, €229, Moleskine, Corso Buenos Aires 22, 20129 Milan, +39 02 2952 9566, moleskine.com

4. BeoPlay A1 speaker, €249, Bang & Olufsen, Corso Garibaldi 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 4193, beoplay.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

5. Serapian suitcase, €1,540, Serapian, Via della Spiga 42, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 4451, serapian.com

PHOTOS: (4) B&O PLAY 2016/JEPPE SØRENSEN; (5) ANDREA ERDNA BARLETTA

UN CERTO MONDO CAMMINA ROSSETTI. FRATELLIROSSETTI.COM

28 | P R O D U C T S

STRONG STYLE Create a biker-chic look with these leather pieces, and add sparkle with a bronze lipstick and the latest accessories

1. Moncler sunglasses, €350, Moncler, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7634 1316, moncler.com

3. Marni earrings, €530, Marni, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7327, marni.com

2. Diesel jumper, €180, Diesel, Piazza San Babila 1-3, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7639 6762, diesel.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

4. Givenchy bag, price on request, Givenchy, Via Sant’Andrea 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7862 3710, givenchy.com

S H O P | 29

PHOTOS: (7) MATHEW ZUCKER; (9) LOUIS BLANCARD/WESTIMAGE

5. Buccellati ring, €7,700, Buccellati, Via Montenapoleone 23, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2154, buccellati.com

7. Aedes de Venustas Cierge de Lune eau de parfum, 100ml, €210, Profumo, Via Brera 6, 20121 Milan, +39 7202 3334, aedes-parfums.com

9. Roger Vivier sandals, €590, Roger Vivier, Via Sant’Andrea 17, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 5614, rogervivier.com

6. Mango trousers, €49.99, Mango, Galleria del Corso 2, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7602 5654, mango.com

8. Swarovski Crystaldust cuff, €69, Swarovski, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 15, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7209 4386, swarovski.com

10. Chanel lipstick, €34, Chanel, Via Sant’Andrea 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7788 6999, chanel.com

globalblue.com

30 | P R O D U C T S

WALK ON AIR Comfort meets contemporary style with this selection of cross-strapped footwear

1. Nicholas Kirkwood sandals, €725, No30 Milano, Via della Spiga 30, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7377, nicholaskirkwood.com

3. Jil Sander sandals, €295 each pair, Jil Sander, Via Pietro Verri 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 2991, jilsander.com

2. Prada sandals, €550, Prada, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 63-65, 20121 Milan, +39 02 876979, prada.com

4. Hugo Boss sandals, €450, Hugo Boss, Piazza Gae Aulenti 6, 20154 Milan, +39 02 6347 0136, boss.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

5. Chloé Wedge sandals, €495, Chloé, Via della Spiga 30, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3035 7401, chloe.com

32 | P R O D U C T S

BE BOLD

Combine tropical prints with brightly coloured clothing and accessories

1. & Other Stories top, €59, & Other Stories, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 1, 20122 Milan, +39 06 3283 2201, stories.com

3. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Celestia eau de toilette, 70ml, €130, Campomarzio 70, Via Brera 2A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7209 5164, franciskurkdjian.com

5. Escada skirt, €790, Escada, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0753, escada.com

2. Kartell by Paula Cademartori handbag, €298, Kartell, Via Filippo Turati (corner of Via Carlo Porta), 20121 Milan, +39 02 659 7916, paulacademartori.com

4. Max Mara sunglasses, €220, Max Mara, Piazza del Liberty 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8849, maxmara.com

6. AGL shoes, €255, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, agl.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

PHOTOS: (1) IBEYOSTUDIO; (6) GIANNI MAZZOTTA

34 | P R O D U C T S

EVER READY These sartorial staples will take you from day to night

1. Corneliani blazer, €1,050, Corneliani, Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7955, corneliani.com

3. Tod’s sunglasses, price on request, Tod’s, Via della Spiga 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2423, tods.com

2. Fratelli Rosetti loafers, €610, Fratelli Rosetti, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1650, fratellirosetti.com

4. Canali tie, €120, Canali, Via Pietro Verri 1-3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 0365, canali.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

5. Trussardi bag, €540, Trussardi, Piazza della Scala 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8068 8242, trussardi.com

PHOTO: (2) PAOLO MARCHESI

MILANO C.so V. Emanuele

C.so Vercelli, 35

Galleria V. Emanuele, 69 C.so Buenos Aires, 39

C.so Genova, 20 C.so XXII Marzo, 5

(angolo Galleria S. Carlo)

36 | P R O D U C T S

BLACK AND GOLD Dark fabrics can be found throughout the collections this season: pair with embellished sandals and you’re ready to go

1. JW Anderson dress, €1,050, So Milano, Piazza Risogimeto 8, 20129 Milan, +39 02 4549 7839, j-w-anderson.com

3. Elena Ghisellini Angel bag, price on request, Anna Ravazzoli, Corso Genova 16, 20123 Milan, +39 02 832 3088, elenaghisellini.com

2. Giuseppe Zanotti choker, €330, Giuseppe Zanotti, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 6808, giuseppezanottidesign.com

4. Aquazzura sandals, €895, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 886371, aquazzura.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

5. Gucci Guilty perfume, 75ml, €102, Gucci, Via Montenapoleone 5-7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 771271, gucci.com

PHOTOS: (4) ALESSIO GRASSI; (5) GEORGIA REED

38 | P R O D U C T S

SUMMER GLOW Add fresh scents and a touch of rouge to sun-kissed skin 1

1. Acqua di Parma Peonia Nobile bath gel, price on request, Acqua di Parma, Via Gesù 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 3307, acquadiparma.com

3. Dolce & Gabbana blusher, from €45, Marionnaud, Corso Magenta 2, 20123 Milan, +39 02 805 3565, dolcegabbana.com

2. Kiko Invisible Touch face fixing powder, €12.90, Kiko, Via Dante 2, Piazza Cordusio, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8050 4199, kikocosmetics.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

4. Giorgio Armani lipstick, from €37, Douglas, Via Tommaso Grossi, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8646 4992, armanibeauty.it

40 | S T R E E T S T Y L E

Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio embraced Japanese style during Milan Fashion Week by wearing loosely tied silk kimonos, and accessorising with Marni and Prada

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

STREET ST YLE

S H O P | 41

globalblue.com

42 | S T R E E T S T Y L E

Statement trousers were championed by Sofie Valkiers and other fashionable women at Milan Fashion Week, complemented with bags from Bulgari and Gucci

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

STREET ST YLE

S H O P | 43

globalblue.com

44 | N E W S

SHOP WINDOW

MILAN MAKEOVER Following the success of its new store concept, which debuted in Rome, Casadei has restyled its flagship store in Milan. Architect Marco Costanzi was called upon to redesign the space, which features two brass-framed installations set on peach blossom marble platforms

where the brand’s superb selection of shoes is displayed. The layout is given structure through the use of Plexiglas and mirrors, while velvet elements – including elegant day beds in petroleum and dove-grey hues – add luxurious finishing touches. Take in the intimate atmosphere and

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

sophisticated surroundings while selecting your perfect Casadei footwear for the season. rre Casadei, Via Sant’Andrea 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 8293, casadei.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 112

Olivia Palermo maxandco.com

M IL A NO C or s o V i tto r io Em an u e l e

46 | N E W S

TREASURE CHEST Fornasetti, purveyor of intriguing interior design items, has recently opened a new store on Corso Venezia. Each room in the grand, threestorey boutique has a different concept through which Fornasetti products are showcased in a unique manner: the red-walled room, for example, is filled with furniture decorated with intricate designs of buildings, and the pale green

room is covered in plates depicting different images of the brand’s muse Lina Cavalieri. This store is sure to delight visitors and if you’re charmed by the Fornasetti approach, ask about the custom-made service. sm Fornasetti, Corso Venezia 21A (corner of Via Senato), 20121 Milan, +39 02 8416 1374, fornasetti.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 109

NEW BEGINNINGS With the spring/summer 2017 collection, Bouchra Jarrar has made her debut as creative director of French fashion house Lanvin. Drawing on the label’s rich history, her designs for this first collection – from elegant tailoring to exquisite dresses – are infused with feminine details. Silk chiffon, crêpe de chine and satin are paired with striking embellishments such as feathered lapels, floral pins and jewel-studded bags, as seen in the pictured style (€1,295). Under Jarrar’s expert guidance, the esteemed fashion house enters a new era. grc Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

Lanvin, Via della Spiga 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 9768 7091, lanvin.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 115

48 | N E W S

ELEGANT STYLE

POWER OF LUXURY

This season Agnona, which is known for its exquisite knitwear, has looked to the Swans – the high-society women who were adored by the American author Truman Capote. Pieces crafted from exquisite cashmere and fine silks communicate romance and glamour, while knitted dresses, including this delicate option in caramel and pink (€1,550), are key pieces. grc Agnona, Via Sant’Andrea 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 798649, agnona.com

Since being founded in 2004, Philipp Plein has sought to create luxury items of the highest standard and the latest collection is yet another example of this unwavering vision. The spring/ summer 2017 collection focuses on ‘street-style couture’, whereby denim items and tracksuits are given a luxury twist. Pair glamorous animal prints, metallics and embellished fabrics with bold jewellery and statement footwear for a powerful look. grc Philipp Plein, Via della Spiga 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2098, philipp-plein.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 115

PHOTOS (FROM LEFT): ONPHRAME; MATTEO PRANDONI/BFA.COM

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 112

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

50 | N E W S

OUT OF AFRICA

TOP TOURS Enhance your trip to Milan with Zani Viaggi, the city tour specialist. Zani Viaggi’s coach trips take in the best of Milan’s culture, art and fashion, and shopping tours to some of Italy’s finest outlets are also available. Services run from the city centre to shopping villages which showcase designer brands at discount prices. Destinations include Serravalle Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

Marco Bicego, Via della Spiga 5, 20122 Milan, +39 02 9122 0010, marcobicego.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 115

Designer Outlet, the second-largest outlet in Europe, Fidenza Village with its impressive selection of boutiques, and Vicolungo the Style Outlet. Zani Viaggi can also take you across the border to Switzerland, to the stores at FoxTown. Wherever you go, Zani Viaggi will ensure you travel in style. sm Zani Viaggi, Milan Visitor Center, Largo Cairoli 18 (corner of Via Cusani), 20121 Milan, +39 02 867131, zaniviaggi.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 104

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) ANDREA OFFREDI

Marco Bicego’s Masai jewellery collection has been inspired by the art and ancient elegance of this African tribe. Pieces feature parallel or intertwined coils in yellow and white gold, and the line includes rings encrusted with diamonds and the pictured five-strand 18-carat yellow gold bracelet with diamond pavés (€12,560). Each Marco Bicego piece is handcrafted and carries a proud yet subtle Made in Italy mark. The company’s designs and attention to detail have helped it to become a celebrated name in the world of Italian jewellery design. rre

52 | N E W S

MAGIC CARPETS This is the perfect season for an interior design overhaul and the Sahrai boutique will help you find a perfect new rug for your home. Whether you prefer subtle patterns or a bold design, this well-appointed boutique has something for every taste. Some of the most outstanding carpets on display are adorned with leopards, a majestic beast whose pattern has been in vogue for decades. Equally captivating are the geometric print rugs which will particularly suit modern, minimalist surroundings. sm Sahrai, Via Manzoni 45, 20121 Milan, +39 02 869 0570, sahrai.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 118

This spring saw the opening of Tiffanyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s third store in Milan, its tenth in Italy. The two-level boutique is housed in a beautiful historic building dating back to around 1870, conveniently located on the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous Piazza del Duomo, and this magnificent setting creates the perfect atmosphere where visitors can immerse themselves in the world of Tiffany. Here you can discover favourites such as Tiffany T jewellery, and statement timepieces including the pictured Tiffany CT60 Dual Time watch in 18-carat rose gold (price on request). Founded in 1837, the New York brand has always created exquisite designs which are perfect to give as a gift or to mark a momentous occasion. grc Tiffany & Co, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, tiffany.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 106

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) T|TIFFANY & CO. STUDIO

TIME FOR T

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time for new challen ges.

BOUTIQUE TISSOT MILAN - CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II, 5

AVAILABLE IN YOUR BOUTIQUE MALPENSA T1B DUTY FREE DEPARTURES FLOOR

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T I S S O T WAT C H E S . C O M TISSOT, INNOVATORS BY TRADITION

54 | N E W S

PICTURE PERFECT Directional Italian brand Marni has a history of artistic inspiration and this season is no different, with the brand launching a mini-collection elaborated with work by Ruth van Beek. The Dutch artist uses personal photographs to create collages, layering images over graphic patterns. This engaging collaboration features a wide range of items, including T-shirts and anoraks and our favourite, the PVC shopper (â&#x201A;Ź330) with an image of an exotic plant layered over a floral print in green, black and white. sm Marni, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7327, marni.com

BY DESIGN The 56th Salone del Mobile furniture exhibition takes place from 4 to 9 April. The highlights of Italian and international design are presented at this event featuring 2,000 exhibitors and which is open to industry professionals as well as to the public. Visitors will be able to explore three categories: Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

Classic, Design and xLux, which focuses on timeless luxury with a contemporary twist. Keep an eye out for parallel events, such as Euroluce which is dedicated to lighting, and Workplace 3.0 which showcases designs developed for workspaces. grc Salone del Mobile.Milano, Fiera Milano, Strada Statale del Sempione 28, 20017 Rho, +39 02 725941, salonemilano.it

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) ALESSANDRO RUSSOTTI

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 114

56 | N E W S

SUPER STYLE Continuing its interest in pop art, this season Iceberg has turned to one of the world’s most famous action heroes, Superman, a character which featured in the work of Andy Warhol. The superhero is a recurring motif in the menswear collection, appearing on knitwear, T-shirts, beachwear and embroidered patches. Adding tropical notes, an all-over foliage print runs as a parallel theme which is artfully counterbalanced by Iceberg’s Marina stripes. A re-interpretation of the Iceberg logo adds a bold final touch to this collection designed by creative director James Long. grc Iceberg, Via Verri 4 (corner of Via Bigli), 20121 Milan, +39 02 3657 7334, iceberg.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 112

MAKING WAVES This season, Paul & Shark presents a capsule collection in conjunction with Chris Fallows, a South African biologist and photographer. The collaboration consists of T-shirts, technical jackets such as the pictured style (€570), accessories and a surfboard all featuring a pattern which the brand developed, using one of Fallows’ photographs as a starting point. A continuation of Paul & Shark’s 40th anniversary celebrations, this range also supports a good cause: part of the proceeds will be donated to Dyer Island Conservation Trust which works to protect great white sharks. grc Paul & Shark, Via Montenapoleone 16, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8565, paulshark.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 114

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

elisabettafranchi.com

58 | N E W S

SURPRISE IN STORE Vhernier’s carefully crafted Sorpresa bracelets are defined by their clean lines and elegant geometric forms. Despite such a simple appearance, a flick of the wrist reveals the precious stones or diamonds glistening between the expertly manufactured meshes. Variations in the Sorpresa collection include the curving Onda, the sea-inspired Vento and the Bridge – where a rectangular mesh of rose gold is elongated and paired with turquoise or diamonds (pictured, price on request). Founded in 1984, Vhernier has always sought to delight with its jewellery creations, whether inspired by nature or modern architecture. grc

WOMEN FIRST For luxurious handbags, look no further than the Italian leather experts Colombo Via Della Spiga. In the company’s beautifully crafted new collection, visitors will find bags made from crocodile skin as well as items featuring embroidery, in a choice of seasonal Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

IN BRIEF

Vhernier, Via Montenapoleone 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7733 1560, vhernier.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 114

Next time you’re in Rome, visit the Global Blue Lounge which recently opened at Piazza di Spagna 29. Here you’ll be able to discover the new Lounge concept and make the most of the many Global Blue services globalblue.com

colours. Celebrating women, this season’s collection is based around Greek goddesses and features this Dione bag (price on request) which is available in striking blue or a classic black shade with floral embroideries. km Colombo Via Della Spiga, Via della Spiga 9, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 3587, colomboviadellaspiga.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 115

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IN STORE: SANTONI Santoni is known for its high-quality leather footwear for men and women. Established 40 years ago by Andrea Santoni, the company specialises in designing shoes which are made in Italy using traditional techniques. It is now run by the founder’s son, Giuseppe Santoni, who talked to Ximena Daneri about the brand’s history and inspiration as well as about its flagship store on Via Montenapoleone

‘I like to consider myself a maker of beauty. Beauty inspires me, in all its shapes. It is first of all a philosophy of life. I love to surround myself with beautiful objects, characterised by fine quality and uniqueness, and these are also the main requisites of the Santoni collections. ‘The toughest challenge for us is to constantly maintain our traditional craftsmanship and our culture of handmade, at a time when everything is about saving money and making economic choices.

Here at Santoni, we combine tradition and innovation, craftsmanship and modern thinking, quality and design, which are all essential in such

famous architect Patricia Urquiola (pictured), who I’ve admired since the beginning of her career. As well as being creative, she understood our soul and DNA and was able to transfer these into the interiors of our boutique. The space is divided into two rooms where the worlds of Santoni man and woman converge and where we aim to create an intimate atmosphere. The standout element is a modular grill, reproduced as a pattern on the walls. We opened this boutique in 2013 with a very nice event attended by friends of the brand, including the elegant actress Juliette Binoche. ‘When you are located on Via Montenapoleone you are in the best possible location. We currently have five people

‘We reinterpret the classics, making them contemporary’ a competitive environment. We love to reinterpret the classics, making them contemporary. ‘Our Via Montenapoleone store was designed by the

working in the store, to satisfy all the needs of our local and international clientele. ‘The shoes which currently best encapsulate Santoni are the men’s double monk style,

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which have been coloured by hand and are smart and elegant. For women, the highlight of our spring/ summer 2017 collection is an amazing suede sandal which features an embroidered fringe of coins and beads, in a perfect Casablanca style. ‘The history of our company is quite short, 40 years are nothing compared with some other luxury brands. In the first two decades we focused on the commercial side and distribution, while in the last few years we have looked at ‘brand building’: thinking about how to position the excellence of our product among the most iconic luxury names worldwide. I’m really proud of this development and of the results we’ve achieved in such a short time.’ Santoni, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0508, santonishoes.com

PHOTOS: ANDREA MARTIRADONNA

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Milano | P.zza San Babila 3 | Tel. +39 02 760.003.66 10 Stores in the City

MADE IN

IN THE

PHOTO: DAVIDE XXXXXXX LOVATTI

For cultural spaces with fashion and design at their core, nowhere is better than Milan. Joanna McGinn selects the places to seek out

KNOW

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curator and director. Inside, the permanent exhibition is divided thematically, with 400 outfits and 200 accessories on display, from intricate showstopper gowns to Giorgio Armani’s famous 1980s power suits. Students and superfans can book access to an extensive online archive in the hi-tech research area. Fashion visionary Miuccia Prada has long been an active patron of contemporary arts, regularly collaborating with up-andcoming creatives, and the Fondazione Prada is the embodiment of that passion. The vast

Fondazione Achille Castiglioni is a hidden gem, dedicated to a maestro of design

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PHOTOS: DAVIDE LOVATTI

taly’s undisputed centre of fashion and finance, Milan has long drawn the crowds with its world-class luxury shopping. But it’s also a city steeped in design heritage, from the early 1900s when ornate arcades and boutiques were built, through to the industrial design boom of the mid-20th century when it became a hub for products carrying the Made in Italy label. Today, visitors to Milan can delve into the city’s design legacy through a growing number of museums and public spaces which are attracting a new style crowd. Opened in 2015 to celebrate the legendary Italian brand’s 40 years in fashion, everything about the Armani/Silos museum is underpinned by Giorgio Armani’s signature minimalistic interior design style. Converted from a 1950s granary (also known as a silo in English), the museum’s monumental concrete exterior and pared-back exhibition halls allow the brand’s story to shine. ‘I decided to call it Silos because this building used to store food, which is, of course, essential for life. For me, just as much as food, clothes are also a part of life,’ explains Armani, who has overseen the project and is its Previous page and above: inside the Armani/Silos museum

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exhibition space combines an historic distillery with unabashedly stark, modern structures and sun-drenched courtyards. Since opening in 1993, it has hosted artists such as Sam TaylorWood, Steve McQueen and Carsten Höller. Families will love the Accademia dei Bambini, an area for children where creative workshops are held. The gorgeous Bar Luce is another highlight. The café, which has been designed by film director Wes Anderson, has a retro-surrealistic look, including 1950s-style Formica furniture. A hidden gem, ‘studio-museum’ Fondazione Achille Castiglioni should be at the top of every design buff’s must-visit list. Book a tour of the studio where the late, great maestro of Italian industrial design Achille Castiglioni worked for 60 years: this space provides a fascinating insight into the man who brought us classics such as the Arco floor lamp. His daughter Giovanna takes visitors around the rooms, which are crammed with books, prototypes, drawings, doodles and his fabulously offbeat collection of found objects, from spectacles to wooden stools. Above (from top): exterior of Fondazione Prada; Accademia dei Bambini at the Fondazione; exterior of the space’s café

PHOTOS (FROM TOP): BAS PRINCEN/FONDAZIONE PRADA; DELFINO SISTO LEGNANI/FONDAZIONE PRADA; AUGUST FISCHER CC BY-ND 2.0

‘Objects are not there only to be seen: his daughter invites visitors to touch objects, to sit down and to live this space,’ explains Carlo Castiglioni, president of the Fondazione Achille Castiglioni. ‘It’s a unique experience because, in this manner, visitors are instantly thrown into the work of Achille Castiglioni.’ Carlo’s favourite object is the humble VLM light switch: ‘It’s a symbol of maximum production at a low price – the idea behind every Castiglioni project.’ The city’s newest design museum, Museo del Design 1880-1980, is dedicated to telling the story of Italian and international product design, from art nouveau to Italian new wave. Located in the buzzing Navigli district, this strikingly modern space is essential for budding designers wanting to swat up on the Italian masters such as Gio Ponti and Ettore Sottsass. While not strictly a design space, Villa Necchi Campiglio has become a cult destination for an in-the-know fashion crowd. A 1930s mansion set in lush gardens, the house has been preserved with its original art deco

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features intact. Movie buffs will recognise it as the setting for the impeccably chic film I Am Love. Its style credentials are further boosted by hosting exhibitions, as well as fashion week and Salone del Mobile events. With fashion- and design-focused spaces of this calibre, it’s no wonder that stylish visitors from around the world are coming to Milan for more than just shopping

Above (from top): Bar Luce at Fondazione Prada, designed by Wes Anderson; the tranquil garden at Villa Necchi Campiglio

PHOTOS (FROM TOP): COURTESY FONDAZIONE PRADA/ATTILIO MARANZANO; © GIORGIO MAJNO / FOTO DI ARENAIMMAGINI.IT,2014 ∏ FAI - FONDO AMBIENTE ITALIANO

With spaces of this calibre, it’s no wonder that stylish visitors from around the world are coming to Milan

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Italy’s leading fashion houses are looking to past decades to create today’s collections. Beth Druce reports

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Right: Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2017

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ast autumn, Prada released a short film directed by David O Russell and starring Frieda Pinto, John Krasinksi and Sacha Baron Cohen. Called Past Forward, the film looks at memories and the way that clothing, or what we wear on any given day, informs our memory of a certain moment. Set in a futuristic environment with a 1950s feel, the film captures Miuccia Prada’s conceptual artistic approach, which has been extended beyond the catwalk to make a wider statement about how clothing shapes our existence. ‘The film feels like another manifestation of her designs,’ says fashion academic and broadcaster Oonagh O’Hagan. ‘It’s not explicit, not spelt out, but it Above (both): Prada spring/summer 2017

feels familiar; whether it’s a scene from the film or one of her silhouettes. You feel you know it, yet it is new and fresh.’ Miuccia Prada is just one of a number of fashion designers who is engaging with the past in order to shape the future. In the spring/ summer 2017 collections at Milan Fashion Week, the past was referenced in a myriad of different ways, shapes and forms, played out through the design of clothes, but also the styling and the models. At Bottega Veneta, supermodels from the 1990s Eva Herzigova and Karen Elson walked the catwalk alongside ‘70s style icon Lauren Hutton and modern-day muse Gigi Hadid.

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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Hutton’s presence was pertinent: in the 1980 film American Gigolo her look was accessorised with a Bottega Veneta intreccio (woven leather) clutch, which the label has reproduced, along with 14 other intreccio bags, to mark its 50th anniversary. Bottega Veneta’s clothes this season reference a 1940s silhouette (the works of artist Norman Rockwell provided inspiration), but without overtly retro connotations. Instead, leather has been cleverly tailored into dresses and separates in sumptuous tones of fuchsia and red geranium, while the more neutrally toned ensembles, for which the house is known, put long loose layers and utility details at the fore. At Versace, designer Donatella Versace has

incorporated elements of the brand’s past into a collection that is making a dash for the future. Figure-hugging mesh, a long-established element at Versace, has been reinvented with sparkling crystals, while signature Versace shades of powder blue and hot purple shake off their usual associations with high-octane glamour in favour of a sporty, space-age persona. And, as at Bottega Veneta’s Milan Fashion Week show, Versace’s clothes were modelled by faces from the past as well as the future: Naomi Campbell, Carmen Kass and Doutzen Kroes joined Gigi Hadid and Edie Campbell, showing that the established and well known can be just as enticing as the new. ‘Decade collaging is a thing of the moment,’ Sarah Mower noted in Vogue,

Above (from left): Gigi Hadid modelling for Bottega Veneta; Naomi Campbell wearing Versace, both spring/summer 2017

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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Fashion’s past is transforming this season’s collections

Above (clockwise from left): two looks from Fendi; a full-length view of a Gucci outfit and close-up of a jacket from the label, all spring/summer 2017

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

referring to the Fendi fashion week show, where the label’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld threw a multitude of old and new influences into the air – 1920s sleepwear, 18th-century baroque items, 1990s cargo trousers and PVC bomber jackets from the most recent decades – and landed them as one. While Lagerfeld has spent his career honing this technique to great effect, the papier-mâché approach to design, whereby different eras, genres and thoughts about fashion are melded together seamlessly, is now being adopted throughout the industry. It’s why Alessandro Michele’s riotous reworking of Gucci is proving more than a one-season wonder. For spring/summer 2017 the designer has reached new levels of multi-referential fantasy – which he describes as ‘phantasmagoric’. Eighteenth-century Chinoise runs throughout the collection which also contains elements of baroque and rococo design along with 1970s trouser suits and 1980s skirt suits complete with shiny gilt buttons and Princess Diana pussy bows. For O’Hagan, Michele’s work is a ‘quirky mash-

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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up’ which is a natural reaction to the political insecurity that we are now facing. ‘When times are tough, people do not want to see paredback, minimalist fashion. Instead, fashion tends to go frivolous. Either via glamour and nostalgia or a fantasy craziness.’ What Prada, Bottega Veneta, Versace, Fendi and Gucci have all shown in their collections this season is that fashion’s past is no longer a dusty box of archived looks that sits on a shelf to be dipped into on the odd occasion. Rather it’s a living, breathing part of the industry’s current narrative, something which right now is transforming the new season’s collections into clothes that clients instantly desire Above (clockwise from top): Gucci; Prada; Doutzen Kroes modelling for Versace, all spring/summer 2017

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Above: Luisa Spagnoli leather handbags in different colours

Luisa Spagnoli has been creating beautiful Italian-made clothing for more than 85 years. Hannah Lewis finds out more about this thriving label

f the name Luisa Spagnoli doesn’t instantly spark recognition, this influential woman’s inventions are sure to. Her first enterprise was the creation of Baci Perugina sweets – chocolate ‘kisses’ with a hazelnut filling – which first went on sale in 1907 and are still loved around the world. She later turned her attention from confectionery to clothing, becoming the first person to create

yarn from Angora rabbit fur. This new and luxurious fabric enjoyed immediate success when it was launched and, from 1928 onwards, Spagnoli and her family built a respected womenswear brand around it, based in Perugia, the capital of Umbria. The Luisa Spagnoli label has stayed within the Spagnoli family throughout its history, adapting to each decade. Luisa’s visionary

grandson Lino took over the running of the business in 1960, modernising the company, greatly extending its reach and building on its reputation. The brand is now in the hands of the founder’s great-granddaughter Nicoletta Spagnoli who, as CEO, has been credited with attracting new and younger customers and with helping to make it one of Italy’s most prestigious fashion labels. Nicoletta Spagnoli has overseen great success for the firm, which has continued to grow in recent years despite the difficulties experienced by the clothing industry. Today, the brand has 151 boutiques in Italy, and a further 57 in other countries across the world. Nicoletta believes this is the result of a strong and timeless philosophy. ‘My family has run the company by making innovative and sometimes courageous choices, but always while maintaining respect for our roots, our traditions and the land in which our heritage stretches,’ she explains. ‘Luisa Spagnoli has a long history, almost a century, but the philosophy has remained the same… that to respect tradition is the best way to innovate without ever losing your identity.’ Throughout the decades, the brand has taken pride in using excellent yarns and fabrics, working with skilled craftspeople and making Above (from top): a worker checking clothes in the Luisa Spagnoli knitwear factory in Umbria, 1955; Nicoletta Spagnoli, CEO of Luisa Spagnoli

PHOTOS (FROM TOP): MARIO DE BIASI\MONDADORI PORTFOLIO VIA GETTY IMAGES; CROCCHIONI

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all its pieces in Italy, largely in its own factories. ‘We have always supported the guarantee of an intrinsically high-quality product,’ explains Nicoletta. Another element which has remained strong is the label’s signature style – a fine balance between classic, seasonless looks and fashionforward elements. This was true throughout the 20th century when Luisa Spagnoli embraced new ideas, including relaxed silhouettes

and trousers for women. Reflecting the label’s personal style, the spring/summer 2017 collection features beautiful nautical pieces, such as an off-the-shoulder ruffle top in a Breton stripe, which recall style icons such as Brigitte Bardot. Elsewhere, loosefitting cropped jeans and a soft blue tweed jacket address the season’s trends more directly. ‘The Luisa Spagnoli customer is feminine and practical at the same time,’ says Nicoletta. ‘A professional

Above (all): Luisa Spagnoli spring/summer 2017

traveller, she is always on the move, but still wants to look perfect for every occasion, whether formal or casual, and at every moment of the day.’ The latest collection could hardly fit this brief more perfectly, with a look to suit every occasion. The concept of the ‘total look’ is very important to the brand, and under Nicoletta the offering has expanded to accessories, jewellery and bags, allowing clients to complete their outfits.

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It’s clear that Luisa Spagnoli’s label is as influential as ever

PHOTO (TOP RIGHT): DANNY MARTINDALE/WIREIMAGE

A fragrance was introduced in 2013; named Luisa – ‘It could not be otherwise,’ states Nicoletta – it is a strong example of the brand’s careful balance of heritage with modernity. ‘For a company to have an identity means something very simple: be what you have been without remaining prisoners in the past; change without ever abandoning your roots. Tradition and innovation, for me, are two sides of the same coin. Whenever I find myself making innovative choices, I try to incorporate our heritage.’ Nicoletta’s vision for Luisa Spagnoli has resulted in a number of industry accolades, such as the Leonardo Award for Italian Quality, for helping to develop the image of Italian-made clothing. But when it comes to her proudest achievement, she is more focused on seeing her clothes worn and loved by women. And when one of those women is Kate Middleton – the Duchess of Cambridge – who is married to the UK’s Prince William, it’s clear that Nicoletta is driving the label in a positive direction: ‘Although awards fill me with pride, I think that one of the most gratifying results of my career has been to win the heart of Kate Middleton.’ The Duchess, who Nicoletta describes as ‘an icon of style and beauty’, has worn Luisa Spagnoli on a number of important official outings. With this royal seal of approval, it’s clear the brand is still as influential as ever

Above (clockwise from bottom left): Luisa Spagnoli accessories; Kate Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge, attends a formal event in Christchurch, New Zealand, wearing Luisa Spagnoli; Luisa Spagnoli’s eau de parfum, Luisa

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TABLE TALK

As a bustling and culture-filled city, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no surprise that Milan has a wide range of eateries. Food and eating out are integral to Italian culture, and many travellers are drawn to the city for its renowned culinary scene. Over the years, traditional trattorias have been joined by a wave of contemporary restaurants. In Milan, inventive and experimental chefs have a willing audience comprising local residents as well as visitors who are eager to try something different. Although you will certainly find pasta dishes on the menus of these modern venues, perhaps even the occasional pizza, these are not typical Italian restaurants. From international influences to open kitchens, modern minimalism to nutritionally focused menus, these eateries meld contemporary ideas with classic Italian cooking, bringing newness and diversity to Milanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dining scene.

PHOTO: XXXX PHOTO: XXXX

Milanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s modern restaurants offer dishes which are clever, inventive and delicious. Maria Kirchen-Hill samples some of the best

PHOTO: XXXX PHOTO: XXXX

CAFFÈ BAG LI O N I AN D I L BAR ET TO AL BAG LI O N I Recently updated by Milanese design studio Rebosio+Spagnulo, Caffè Baglioni is more stylish than ever, with finishing touches such as glass chandeliers and copper yarn decorations making the perfect setting in which to sample delicious aperitifs and bar snacks. Move through to the adjoining restaurant, Il Baretto al Baglioni, to enjoy a selection of dishes from its innovative menu, which was created by chef Marika Elefante as part of her Healthy Food project. Designed to nourish and detoxify the body, the dishes are proof that nutritional and well-balanced meals can also be delicious. Offering a lighter take on classic Mediterranean fare, dishes are healthy but still feel indulgent – think salad of creamed chicken with Grana Padano, potatoes and rye bread crumbs. Caffè Baglioni and Il Baretto Al Baglioni, Baglioni Hotel Carlton, Via Senato 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 77077, baglionihotels.com

L ANGOSTERIA B ISTROT

CAR LO E CAM I LL A

Owner Enrico Buonocore opened Langosteria Bistrot in 2012 following the great success of its sister restaurant Langosteria. Less formal than its predecessor, this venue is nonetheless elegant and stylish, and continues with the winning formula of a seafood-centred menu with a few meat options. The members of staff aim to make every visitor feel instantly at home. On arriving, guests are welcomed at the raw fish bar, where they can sit and watch the skilled chefs prepare dishes. A starter of tuna toast with buffalo mozzarella and anchovies is a firm favourite, and we also recommend the delicate yet comforting pasta dishes, and the delicious grilled octopus. Ask the house to recommend a great Italian wine or French champagne to accompany your meal, or choose from the excellent artisanal beers on offer. Langosteria Bistrot, Via Privata Bobbio 2, 20144 Milan, +39 02 5810 7802, langosteria.com

As with all great Italian restaurants, Carlo e Camilla puts high-quality raw materials at the heart of its philosophy, presenting uncomplicated dishes where taste is everything. A pared-back, industrial space was chosen by the three creative partners behind the venture, Carlo Cracco, Tanja Solci and Nicola Fanti. The menu, which changes frequently to embrace seasonal produce, is beautifully simple, with perfectly cooked meat, fish and vegetarian dishes as well as unctuous risottos and first-class pastas (handmade, of course). The bar is an attraction in itself, and the theatrically delivered cocktails draw a buzzing crowd each evening. Wine enthusiasts may like to know that the wine list changes frequently and features the produce of one craft winery each month. Carlo e Camilla, Via Giuseppe Meda 24, 20136 Milan, +39 02 837 3963, carloecamillainsegheria.it

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PHOTOS (FROM LEFT): MICHELE BELLA; CHICO DE LUIGI

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TO K U YO S H I Yoji Tokuyoshi moved from Japan to Italy over 10 years ago, and spent almost a decade honing his cookery skills under noted chef Massimo Bottura at the Osteria Francescana in Modena. Moving to Milan, he established his own restaurant in 2015, which gained a Michelin star within months of opening. Tokuyoshi refers to his food as ‘contaminated Italian globalblue.com

cuisine’, seeing ‘fusion’ as an insufficient way of describing his approach. The chef clearly has an understanding of, and respect for, traditional ingredients which he uses to great effect in signature creations such as Gyotaku Mackerel and Hidden Pigeon. Such dishes are artfully presented and taste as equally exquisite. Tokuyoshi, Via San Calocero 3, 20123 Milan, +39 02 8425 4626, ristorantetokuyoshi.com

PHOTOS: (TOP AND BOTTOM LEFT): MARCO VAROLI; (BOTTOM RIGHT) MATTIASANTINI.COM

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Milano, Piazza Duomo 19 - www.cielo.it Tel +39 02 87 40 10 info@cielo.it cielo1914 cielo 1914

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STAY IN STYLE

RITZ PARIS The Ritz Paris, one of the most legendary hotels in the world, has reopened after an extensive four-year refurbishment. The Ritz’s heritage is illustrious; previous guests include Marcel Proust, Maria Callas, and Coco Chanel. Expect spectacularly globalblue.com

opulent suites, some dedicated to the famous names who frequented the hotel, including the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Charlie Chaplin – and Chanel. The new Salon Proust is the venue for a sophisticated afternoon tea which, of course, includes the madeleine cakes associated with the eminent author.

Other unique features include the Ritz Club, with its turquoise mosaic swimming pool and Chanel spa, and the shopping gallery, which features some of the world’s most exclusive names. Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4316 3030, ritzparis.com

PHOTO: VINCENT LEROUX

The world’s finest hotels boast desirable locations, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best

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FOUR SEASONS LONDON AT TEN TRINITY SQUARE The Four Seasons at Ten Trinity Square, just a short walk from Tower Bridge, occupies a classic example of London architecture: the former headquarters of the Port of London Authority, globalblue.com

opened in 1922. This spectacular building now houses 100 guest rooms and suites, a pool and an ultraluxurious Roman-inspired spa. Guests can take afternoon tea in the Rotunda Bar & Lounge, which is adorned with intricate maritimethemed carvings, or enjoy a spectacular dinner in La Dame de Pic, three-Michelin starred chef Anne-Sophie

Picâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first British restaurant. Rooms are understatedly high-end and equipped with everything the traveller could need, from Nespresso coffee machines to charging stations for tech essentials. Four Seasons London at Ten Trinity Square, 10 Trinity Square, London EC3N 4AJ, +44 (0)20 3866 5858, fourseasons.com/tentrinity

PHOTO: RICHARD WAITE

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KULM HOTEL ST MORITZ The Kulm Hotel St Moritz was the first hotel to be built in the famous Swiss resort. Opened in 1856, it transformed the alpine village into the sought-after destination it is today and can even claim to have started the trend for winter holidays that has

continued ever since. The hotel’s 172 rooms and suites include the luxury Lakefront South suite, with a balcony overlooking breathtaking views across Lake St Moritz. Facilities include seven restaurants, a nine-hole golf course and a spa with a swimming pool, saunas, steam rooms and a Jacuzzi with stunning views of the Alps. The hotel recently reopened

the Kulm Country Club, redesigned by renowned architect Norman Foster; its innovative restaurant’s stellar line-up of international chefs take up residence in rotation, enhancing St Moritz’s reputation as a premier food destination. Kulm Hotel St Moritz, Via Veglia 18, 7500 St Moritz, +41 (0)81 836 8000, kulm.com

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PARK HYATT VIENNA Park Hyatt’s first Austrian hotel is every bit as elegant as regular Park Hyatt visitors would expect. The hotel is located in the pedestrianised Goldenes Quartier of Vienna, in a district classified as a World Heritage Site by Unesco. It’s also just a short distance from the city’s main globalblue.com

attractions and most exclusive boutiques. The Hotel’s Café Am Hof celebrates the traditional Viennese coffee house and is particularly lovely during the summer months thanks to its outside terrace, the ideal spot to enjoy coffee, cake and peoplewatching. The hotel has 143 rooms and suites, including Austria’s largest suite, the two-storey Royal Penthouse, which has four

terraces with views across the city. Guests can make use of the Arany Spa which has a well-equipped gym, a 15-metre indoor swimming pool and offers a range of relaxing and rejuvenating body treatments. Park Hyatt Vienna, Am Hof 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 22740 1234, vienna.park.hyatt.com

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GUIDE

PHOTO: © ANDREA SCURATTI

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Milan with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the best bars to a refined men’s accessories store. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/milan.

Above: the beautiful Giardino di Villa Reale

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© Samsonite 2017 MILANO Samsonite Store via San Pietro all’Orto 11 - via Belfiore 6 - ROMA House of Samsonite via del Tritone 149 SAMSONITE FACTORY OUTLETS: Cantello (VA) - Corsico (MI) - Vicolungo The Style Outlets (NO) - Serravalle Designer Outlet (AL) Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets (BO) - Fidenza Village (PR) - Valdichiana Outlet Village (AR) - Barberino Designer Outlet (FI) Castel Romano Designer Outlet (RM) - Valmontone Outlet (RM)

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Bar Martini This stylish cocktail spot, owned by Dolce & Gabbana, is the perfect place to see and be seen in. Bar Martini, Corso Venezia 15, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 1154, dolcegabbana.com

Place Of Interest

ZANI VIAGGI, MILAN VISITOR CENTRE

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VIA

AR AP

Piazza Castello

FEATURED ON PAGE 46

Armani/Silos This elite fashion museum celebrates four decades of Armani style, where everything will wow you, from the gowns to the accessories. Armani/Silos, CO R SO Via Bergognone 40, 20144 Milan, M AG EN TA +39 02 9163 0010, armanisilos.com

CHIA

NIN

ON CASTELLO SFORZESCO

PIA Z Z

IO R I

FEATURED ON PAGE 60

Fornasetti Whether you select one of the brand’s candles depicting Lina Cavalieri or a piece of statement furniture, Fornasetti’s creations are captivating. Fornasetti, Corso Venezia 21A (corner of Via Senato), 20121 Milan, +39 02 8416 1374, fornasetti.com

PON

VIA

ALD

123

LFERIN

122TACCIO

G A R IB

Santoni Step into the sleek boutique from this much-lauded footwear brand and invest in a new pair of shoes. Santoni, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0508, santonishoes.com

VIA SO

CO R S O

SHOP HIGHLIGHTS

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO

VIA F

V IA D

AT E B

E L L’

ENE

ANN

FR A TELL

UNC

Piazza Cavour

V I A PA L E S T R

VILLA BELGIOIOSO & GALLERIA D'ARTE MODERNA

IATA

MUSEO CIVICO DI STORIA NATURALE

PAGE

115

PAGE

PE OS RG BO

RS CO

IA EZ

EN OV

TEATRO NUOVO CONSERVATORIO GIUSEPPE VERDI V IA B ORGO GNA

RV A

TI D

I SC

VIA

RIN

AR I V IA PAT T

PAGE

107

NE U

B E RT

E II

O N FO R T

M A VI A NI

ZO AN M A VI

CO R S O M SAN BABILA

EO TT I

IAN

I TA

S. D

UEL

VIA

NT AM

ETT

SCH

VILLA NECCHIV I A CAMPIGLIO

CHIESA DI SAN BABILA

TO R

PAGE

VIT

M IO E

MUSEO DEL NOVECENTO GRANDE MUSEO DEL DUOMO PALAZZO REALE

RSO

PRI

126

Piazza San Babila Piazza San Carlo

’OR ALL

106

PAGE

DUOMO

109

DUOMO

’A

E DR

112

CO RS O MATT

TRO

VIA MENGONI

Piazza Del Duomo

PIE

SA N

PA O

RIN

S VI A

PAGE

VIA

Piazza Meda TT EO T TI R SO MA CO

SA N

VIA S. PELLICO

VIA

PALAZZO MARINO

PAGE

VIA

GALLERIE D'ITALIA

VIA

TEATRO ALLA SCALA Piazza Della Scala

PALAZZO MORANDO

G EL

MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI

VI VE

TO NA

PAGE

114 VI

D V.

MUSEO BAGATTI VALSECCHI

V I A BO

MONTENAPOLEONE

A VI

Piazza Croce Rossa

118

S H O P | 105

106 | G U I D E

CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II AREA Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Via San Pietro all’Orto & Via Torino Piazza della Scala

VI AC LE

Piazza della Scala

RI C

TRUSSARDI ●

VI AN

IT A

ER GH AR M

NT A

I TA ER

GH AR TA M

SA A VI

DUOMO

FI CI

I U

R O CT

Ristorante Cracco

VI AD

ZARA ●

Piazza Del Duomo

MONDADORI ●

BENETTON ●

Piazza Mercanti

OYSHO ● ● INTIMISSIMI ● VICTORIA'S SECRET ● CALZEDONIA ● NARA CAMICIE ● CAMPER ● OROLOGERIA LUIGI VERGA

V IA SAN

LO LI

NE A VI

N L' U

DEL

VIA G AE TANO GIAR DIN O

VIA MAZZINI

VIA

BERSHKA ● MM ● NAU ● ● GEOX BOTTEGA VERDE ● ● FOOT LOCKER SWEET WAY ● ● DESIGUAL MAC ● ● MANGO BOUTIQUE DEL GIOIELLO ● ● MCS TRE ESSE SPORT ● ● NIKE STORE ● BATH & BODY WORKS AW LAB ● SWAROVSK I ● ● VERGELIO PANDORA ● ● CARPISA ● KIKO PULL & BEAR ● ● KEY BE SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ● O ● PIMKIE KIEHL'S ● N GUESS ● R I ● ACCESSORIZE TO ● YAMAMAY A ● MARCO TEZENIS ● I V ● OTTICA BARELLO TALLY WEIJL ● ● TERRANOVA DIXIE ● ● TRONY ● ALCOTT

TA M A R

A A

Piazza Pio XI

VI VI

OVS INDUSTRY ●

ION

● A.FUGAZZI ● ANTONELLA FERRANTE

Global Blue Retailer Café

Non-Global Blue Retailer

A VI

ITALIA MISSORI

Metro

Restaurant

VI A U GO FOSCOLO

TIFFANY & CO ●

● FERRARI STORE

P.52

CURRADO ● GRIMOLDI ● RUGGERI ● LA FARMACIA CARLO ERBA ●

VIA S. PELLICO

SARTORIA ROSSI ● CIELO 1914 ●

Pasticceria Marchesi O

● OXUS US

GALLERIA VITTORIO EM ANUELE II

VIA MENGONI

AS OT

AUTOGRILL-TERRAZZA APEROL ●

VIA

FFAE L E

STEFANEL ● NARA CAMICIE ● CADÉ ●

● PRADA

V I A TO M M A S O G R O SS

VIA SA N RA

TOD’S ● SWAROVSKI ● VERSACE ●

GA L L ERIA VITTORIO EMANU ELE II

VIA MENGONI

● BORSALINO VI A ● MONTBLANC AG NE ● MEJANA LL ● PIUMELLI O ANDREW'S TIES ● ● CHURCH’S V I A S. ● NOLI R CORDUSIO A D LUISA SPAGNOLIDANTE ● ● BRIC’S EG LEO PIZZO ● ON ● GUCCI DA ● GIORGIO ARMANI PRADA ● ● LOUIS VUITTON

GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II

COMUNE DI MILANO URBAN CENTRE ● RIZZOLI ●

S H O P | 107

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Via San Pietro all’Orto & Via Torino

Piazza San Carlo

ELE

INTIMISSIMI ● CELIO ● TISSOT ●

TO R

V I A PAT TA

● NARA CAMICIE ● LIBERO MILANO ● GUTTERIDGE

● ISAIA EU O RS

TT A

TE NA PO

● IL GUFO

COR SO MAT T EOT

TRO

● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH ZEPTER ● INTERNATIONAL SAN

’OR ALL

YOUNG VERSACE ● MONDADORI MULTICENTER ●

PIE

VERSACE COLLECTION ●

BABILA

● BROOKS BROTHERS ● PRONOVIAS

SAMSONITE ● MAURO LEONE ● CONTIGO ● BOSE ● CASHMIRINO ● FOR PETS ONLY ●

VI A LA

A RG

● BAGUTTA

SAN

CO RSO MAT TEO TTI

VIA SA N TA TECL A

G H

A VI

BOGLIOLI ● MASCHIO ● EYE STYLE ● POMELLATO ●

VIA

VIA SAN CL EMEN T E

JIL SANDER ●

O LL E DE

VIA B ORGO GNA

VIT

A EM

Piazza San Babila ● SISLEY

PA O

● ALCOTT ● CARPISA ● FALCONERI ● INTIMISSIMI

OD STORE ●

& OTHER STORIES ●

Y NOT ? ● H&M ● ROCCA ●

A FFA EL E

La Rinascente

VIA SA N R

LUSH ●

RSO

SAN BABILA

● LOLITA

MARIUCCIA ●

SAN

VIA

FOOTBALL TEAM ●

DUOMO

● DIMENSIONE DANZA

Piazza Liberty

JDC URBAN STORE ● NARA CAMICE ● FURLA ●

P.146

VI A Cioccolati AG N EL Italiani

CO RS O MATT EO TT I

● CLARKS

VI A DU RINI

AT T

● NESPRESSO COLLEZIONE PRIVATA VENEZIA ●

MASSIMO ● H&M DUTTI ● GEOX ● ● NADINE ● STROILI ORO ● OYSHO ● LUISA SPAGNOLI KIKO ● ● ILLY SWATCH ● ● MILAN MEGA STORE GOBBI 1842 ● ● MICHAEL KORS MARILENA ● ● PINKO SWAROVSKI ● ● DISNEY ● LIU JO ZARA ● THE HIGHLINE T O MEN ● ● FOOT LOCKER ’O R ALL ● GAP ZARA ● TRO . P IE CALZEDONIA ● V. S ● TEZENIS ● PULL & BEAR BENETTON ● ● SEPHORA IS ● BERSHKA IS TO F O R IA DE CR G A LL ER ● MANGO MAX MARA ● ● VERGELIO MAX & CO ● Excelsior PENNYBLACK ● ● MOTIVI I BLUES ● ● WYCON ● YAMAMAY MARELLA ● MARINA RINALDI ●

T EO

Piazza Meda

Piazza San Carlo

Piazza San Babila

● SUPERGA ● SANDRO FERRONE ● MARCO

ET TO

VI A BR

IC OR SF

CO ES NC RA

TA D

VI A SA

PER

TO NI O

N T ’A N

A RG LA

Place Of Interest

Department Store

Gelateria

Featured In This Issue

GU A STA LL

CI A

VI A DE LL A

AL VI

G U I D E | 109

PIAZZA SAN BABILA AREA

M ON TE NA PO LE ON E VI A M ON

● GUESS

B E R TO NE U

D RO NT V IS V IA

VA LE RIO

● SILVIA

RIN

● NATURINO

AR CO

LE M MA RZ IA

● MHWAY

VIA

L A RGO COR SIA DEI SERVI

CORSO EUROPA ● EMPORIO CASA

● B&B ITALIA

● JUVENTUS STORE

JOAQUIN BERAO ●

VIA

VI A PAT TA

JH 1912 ●

DEL MARE ●

I DI

VIA

● CASSINA

PAUL TAYLOR ●

RV A

INTER STORE MILANO ● VI A BORGOG N A BOGGI ● Brian & Barry NORTH SAILS ● Building San Babila VANS-EASTPAK ● ● GALLO TIMBERLAND ● ● JUVENTUS TRUSSARDI JEANS ● STONE FLY ● ● LIBERO MILANO SOBEK ● ● NATUZZI BELLORA ● AVIREX ● CE

’O R ALL

MILANO OFFICIAL ● STORE

TRO

● ESCADA ● JUST CAVALLI

P IE

Piazza San Carlo VODAFONE ●

VIA ANSELMO RONCHETTI

● SUITSU PPLY ● ICF ● SAN BABILA GIOIEL LI

CO R S O M

SAN BABILA

● LEGO ● SALMOIRAGHI VIGANÒ ● EDDY MONETTI ● MORESCHI Piazza ● FLORSHEIM ● BROSWAY San Babila ● MOMO DESIGN ● BOGGI ● NESPRESSO ● BALDININI TREND ● MAZZOLARI ● CAMICISSIMA ● VANNUCCI ● DIESEL

BOGGI ●

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

Department Store

Restaurant

Bar

Featured In This Issue

ITTALA ●

FLOS ● LUCE PLAN ●

EO TT I

ARTEM IDE ● FONTA NA ARTE ●

IAN

BOSS STORE ● ROBERTO FESTA ●

Sant'Ambroeus Bar

SAN

● UNIFOR ● RODO ● MORONI GOMMA

V IA

● BORBONESE

TO R

E II

MAZZOLARI ● TIMBERLAND ● NEGRI FIRENZE ● ALDO BRUÈ ● HARMONT & BLAINE ●

PA O

VIT

UEL

LE P.124

FERUTDIN ZAKIROV ●

DE MATTIA ● PASABAHCE ● PIKENZ ●

SAN

VIA

R CO

DODO ● FABBRICA PELLETTERIE MILANO ●

JECKERSON ● GRAVATI ● ALVIERO MARTINI ●

CO RS O MATT

M IO E

VIA

AB I

● TATRAS ● D MAGAZINE ● ASPESI

ANTICHITÀ PIVA & C. ●

OS RG BO

● NELLA LONGARI ● ULTURALE

. VE VIA P

SÙ

CLOTH ● DORMEUIL

TO NA

N SA

A ● BIGLI 24 VI ● CODECASA GIOIELLI LA CARAMELLA ● D'ORO

Piazza Meda

RA I I M TA CA ON LIA M DI N I B PA G DI ND A IN PE EP ISB NA MAR IA T T EN CU IGL ● V I N D E LT I ● A N I M M O SR O L T ●● JO AT C I 'C IA A ● O OL 'S ● R IM P LE N ● SA T T TO V I V IA P.12 T VI OM P HUN ● 6 EN A NE T BE BOL R 5 ● ● ● L RE I W H OT DE ES E FL SIR NI ● NC TI BE T W E X E ● O CA R OO X ● N VE A D P.4 R N ● Ta LI EZ DI ● 6 V I ● & F r tu F O FA R M A D I A N A ● ﬁ M ES rie RN M IN I ● AM nd A S AC A ● EA IA E R IS s TT ● ND I● ’A MA DO NT LL LC SA P.1 A DO E & PA L U O N I VI 22 LC G A DO CIA ● E& D B B VA N N O Ba GA OL AN ● r ● ARMAN I CASA A FL BB CE & M a ● r ti AV A N G ● STONE ISLAND A A n I O NE CA BAR BBA i ADD ● RO ST BI NA ● ALFIER I ST.JOH N GI NER EL ER ● AR O LA E ● ● WOLFO RD DI GIA NI N R ● IJ P DO ● GAGÀ MILAN O UN DIN LC HILI IO I ● ● ROY ROGER S E & PP R ● GA PLE ● DIEGO M IN BB ● ULTIMA EDIZIO NE DE ● AN ● PADOVA ● EMPRE SA CO A ● S● ● NOMIN ATION BA CHRIST OFLE ● GA ● ALBER TO GUARD IANI TT CR ● ● PAOLO TONAL I OM IA ● RED VALEN TINO ● Z ● LOVE MOSCH INO LI HO AR ● M MISSO NI CO VI A M E A NT NA ● ● FRANK IE MOREL LO I● N FO RT E VI

Piazza San Babila, Corso Matteotti & Via Bigli

112 | G U I D E

MONTENAPOLEONE AREA V

Via Sant’Andrea, Via Pietro Verri & Piazza Meda, Via Gesù, Via Borgospesso & Via Santo Spirito LL

WALTER PADOVANI ● ANTIQUARIO ● DAAD DANTONE ANTIQUARIATO BENSI ● ● CARLO TIVIOLI O ● NEIL BARRETT GIOIELLI DI SANTO SPIRITO 13 ● T I SÙ GIORGIO JANEKE ● I R ● DUVETICA GE P GIANVITO ROSSI ● A S VI BALLIN ● O T CHANTECLER ● N

O SS

MODICA MILANO ● GREYMER ●

● MONTEGRAPPA ● FABBRICATORE ● SCHREIBER ● WALTER SHOES ● INBORGOSPESSO 18

STELLA MCCARTNEY ●

● GALLUCCI ● ALTOMANI & SONS ● GALLERIA SILVA LOUIS MICHAIL ● TOP TIME MUSA ● MONTENAPOLEONE FINE JEWELRY ● BORGOSPESSO 6 ● SOLO BLU

● PAROSH ● DE VECCHI MILANO 1935 ● N° 21

I VI

SÙ

O SS PE

M A

A IG

VIA

R IN

VILLA NECCHI CAMPIGLIO

● A LMINI

E ZI

● BALLANTYNE

● ISSEY MIYAKE

A VI

T ’A

● MR & MRS

Piazza Meda

COR SO MAT TEO

STEFANO RICCI ● MIMÌ ● RUBINACCI ● GOYARD ● ACQUA DI PARMA ●

MUSEO BAGATTI VALSECCHI

VIA

E VY UR I NA ● UT UT ER O I CO D RL IN LL I● B E S A N TA CH VA E M A I ● DA OS IL IS TA J A M ● EM O IS LIN ● PR T L N TT PR EN U ● ● H E R B A AVA N I M UR ● ● GIA A C AN L A IU M EL K T ZM M OD R ● ● ERI NEL IN IT E M IE ● SA ● HA W C P E V I V TA ● T IS ● IP NE A TI AR R IR ER IL NI AN PH ● VE ON S ● T U N E B O IOT OG O ’ S R ● A UM GA GN H AC AT ● AN C E Y P A B ● AR LL TT 8 UR CH A ● ● CHI ARE I LA NE CH EN A S I ● B O P.4 IL ZA ● V E S A N V TA C I C ER ● GI ● R I AO GU T A ● AN UT DO C BA I M LE IEL O ● ● ● VIA O N AR O E RG LIN S A IS RL M SA M N R CA ● ● EN SO BO A E AI UE ● LL M ON CQ SI ES Y T M TO LE GE LE ER IMM ● R ’OR ALL J OO ● P O P I A CCI N D E SO TRO P IE ● CH DEI N A RU GU XA SA N E V IA CA ● LE SA T A ● CA ON PE ● ● ER M P NI 4 ● ND A ILI I O P.4 A S A DY I N A VI PH RI I ● BR JIL ED RT D2 GE UM I ● ● EK O T N ● F ● FR MA ARE PA O L RO CIA N D ● LA U INI I OR O P RU O I SQ AD RM ● D S A R C C H MB I G L G ● PI ET ● PA L L I PA RI VIA ER ● MA EB HN ● IC JO ● NI ● IA 6 AR RZA ● P.5 M R O A SF TEU I ● PI O M M CA ● O TU SI RD OV AS M FO O ● PR T LO M N AO EN TO L EG I ● NP SA L AG L VIA NA TO CA DI O INI ● DIN CI FI BAL NI Y● NT ● LA VE EL E T ICO OT 16 P.1 U N T O O● P OL ZZ NI ● VA R A ELL A ST CA

MONTENAPOLEONE

P.124 LARDINI ● CAIATI FINE ARTS ● BARBA NAPOLI ● ORIENTAL ART RENZO FRESCHI ● ROSALBA ● DOUCAL'S ● KITON ● SILVANO LATTANZI ● LUCIANO BARBERA ● BARRETT ● SÙ TINCATI ● GE DORIANI CASHMERE ● A ZILLI ● VI

TO NA

Piazza Croce Rossa

VIA

I PI

E TÀ

Drogheria Parini

SA A V I ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE

Global Blue Lounge

RG BO A

TURRI ● BOTTEGA VENETA ●

JF LONDON ● RO OTTICA S.SPIRITO ● SSA AGRESTI ● RI BALENCIAGA ●

MI.MI.SOL. ●

VERSACE HOME ●

ROBERTO DEL CARLO ●

TTI

CO RS O MO

SAN BABILA

Piazza San Carlo

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

Global Blue Lounge

Restaurant

Piazza San Babila

Metro

NF OR TE

RIM

114 | G U I D E

TO NA

R IN

CI Ù TA S AC I N A GE ER B B VI ● A L LO RU 6 O NI E ● ● MA I N P.5 A LV I N O ●● ● RI I K S AC E L S C C H ● A R TT M R A FU T NI ● LO ● IE SH O WA I N I N ● R T L & L A CO E L S L D G AL I N I ● A A N G O C U R A RE B A H I C H L AT I N ●● AN ● PA P E F R S .54 ND LS ’A P ● LA AN È RE CELPLE ERI L ● PE NT I I M R I A ● I ● G R N A S UN UC PP LL EL R ● A ● HE AR RY & VI B R B I L I IO I E K RO N I E CO ● ● M OR BER EEF A PH I G VI ER RE WE H ● ● DI R CL SA EL H U E C ● I E U S I H V ● F B N N O GN L O OA E N T T ● IC CU D ● VA N I E L I SI M C D E ● 8 ● VE BA IAN DE N GU TO ● P.5 I L E E A T ● E A M P R L A ● A N OT B LU ● DA DE B EL IA D SI ● M ● va IN OM AN D G PE CE A PO C o A WP E Z A N LI A S SA si ● D D A R e N ● LI A EP RE IT VE rch ELI A AL PR US LI I a G U EG ● G I D E Y I N C AV ● M I M D L E E 0 ● F L A O N ● ia B O IA CI ● P.6 ● BA BB RT R ET e r RY SM UC RO ● ● SA B E P E I N IGU NA icc EN RU G E T CIE ● ● RO M ON MA S P BA s t H RI A T A a I I B A L ● C N A AR A R P M ET I ● AN VE ● SA AD M & G CA N S ● RO ● PR DE E RM N A VE L A S SA I ● ET A R U C I A L A ● A L P O TO N A EG T E I C EN D O ● IA ● DO RGI IT T T AN ND F AM ER ● ● ● O VU GI BO R M FE IS I AG C L WC Z A U R R ● O N I A R O Z ● T LO VI A ● LG FE M SU ● R A ELL E ● BU RE Piazza ● TA A B LT R A I ● TO MAT TEOTT I T A Meda I R CO RS O E NN U E T LV NF OR T O N A CO N T CO RS O MO SA M Y E PA S E SI B R- L N E OS E CI I R SAN BABILA G I L E F JA O F T EL Piazza A San Babila FR

V IA

R FE

MONTENAPOLEONE

I SP

Piazza Croce Rossa

EG IL DO V L T T M O C V ZE ER EG O N U C I E G N T U SE LO A T B IN R R A ● EM RG RO VE L A ELL E ● I L I O P I N E N C I ●● ● VI I O R A TA ● ● F AM PU OS NA ● ● COA L A NZ CC SI ● P I R CO ON ● NK N N I I● ● ● R O ELI ER AN I ● GI OL GR US EX I E B I ● FF P O SA E PE UT ● Z A IQ LV V I A VA AT B O NO UE LE O RGO TT - P RE NT S I D ISA IN FE PES ES O R R SO IG AG N AM O

Via Montenapoleone

E Z IA

V IA

SAN

TRO

P IE

VIA

’O R ALL

Piazza San Carlo

GRIFFE

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

PHOTO: ANTONIO MANISCALCO

For the most intricately designed glassware, make time to visit Griffe. Whether you’re looking for wine goblets, decanters or even plates, there is a product and a style that will certainly appeal. Inspired by the classic Italian film, the La Dolce Vita collection comprises glasses, tumblers, candlesticks and fruit bowls among many other items, all rendered in sumptuous tones of rose, lavender, caramel and ink blue. For visitors planning to redesign their tableware this season, this range is full of cinematic style. Griffe, Via Montenapoleone 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8791, vetreriediempoli.it

Metro

Café

S H O P | 115

SPIGA & VIA MANZONI AREA Via della Spiga

ANN

R AT

ELLI

N EF

E L L’

AT E B E

V IA D

V I A PA L E S T R

V IA F

Piazza Cavour

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Featured In This Issue

Piazza San Carlo

Piazza San Babila

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12 HOURS IN MILAN 10am Begin your day at Pasticceria Marchesi. Famous for its pastries and sweets, this well-established company has recently opened a branch in the luxurious Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, so there’s never been a better time to visit for a cappuccino and a slice of delicious cake. The beautifully packaged confectionery will make great gifts. 11am Explore the stores inside the Galleria where you’ll see the latest luxury handbags from Louis Vuitton, Church’s shoes and Swarovski jewellery. A suitcase from Bric’s is perfect for transporting your purchases.

ELEVENTY Aiming to create clothing which is stylish as well as responsibly sourced, Eleventy works with craftspeople and family-run companies throughout Italy. The spring/summer womenswear line brings refinement to everyday dressing, with items including light tailored coats in pale grey, white cropped trousers and two-tone denim shirts. Eleventy’s leather backpacks, sleek trainers and chunky jewellery will complete your look. Eleventy, Piazza Meda 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3968 0048, eleventy.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 112

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3pm Marvel at the Duomo, the fifth largest church in the world, which took almost six centuries to construct, and find out more on a guided tour of this impressive Gothic structure. Afterwards, enjoy an aperitif at Obicà Mozzarella Bar on the top floor of La Rinascente department store. 7pm Dine at Altezza Duomo. The recently opened restaurant from chef Luca Marchini entices diners to experience the nation’s flavours and makes the most of stunning local produce. Items are also available to purchase, so you can take home a taste of Italy.

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Piazza Meda

Featured In This Issue

RO A

GALLERIE D’ARTE-PIAZZA SCALA

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MO VI

Piazza della Scala

VIA

IR O DE GL LL IO A PI SC A Z AL ZA A ●

COR SO MAT TEO TTI

Metro

RICK OWENS MILAN VIA MONTE DI PIETAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 13 20121 MILAN TEL + 39 02 45386030 WWW.RICKOWENS.EU

STORE@RICKOWENSMILAN.COM OPEN MONDAY TO SATURDAY FROM 10:30 A.M. TO 7:30 P.M. CLOSED ON SUNDAY

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DANTE & MAGENTA AREA Corso Magenta

Via Dante

● PETALI CERATINA 1919 ●

ZANI VIAGGI, MILAN VISITOR CENTRE ●

CAIROLI

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LOLAANDGRACE ●

LENZUOLISSIMI ● OTTICA VIGEVANO ● VI AG GIOIELLI ● D’AUGUSTA AE TA MARCO ● NO NE NASHI ● GR I LIMONI ●

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VIA

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KILO FASCION ●

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● RANCÉ ● GUANTI ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI

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TEATRO LITTA BANG & OLUFSEN ● LOCHERBER ● DOTTI ● CALAMAI ●

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ZUCCA STREGATA ● COLTELLERIA ● LORENZI MILANO ● PANTONE UNIVERSALE ● CAMICISSIMA GIOIELLERIA ● FALLIVA PANIZZI ● GREAT MASTERS OF TIME ● PELLINI ● M. BARDELLI I

CO RS O M AG EN TA

PERLITA ● CASA DEL BIANCO ● MARIONNAUD ● BOTTA GIOIELLI ● BOGGI ● FLAMANT ● MATIAS OUTLET ● PERFUME BY CALÈ ● DASSI ● LA PICCOLA GIOIELLERIA ● M.C.M. SANTA MARIA NOVELLA ● ERA L'ORA ●

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● ALDO CITTERIO ● 3 STORE ● GIOIELLERIA FEDELI ● PELLETTERIA RICCARDI ● VODAFONE ● OROLOGERIA AL DUOMO ● SAVINELLI ● LE SCARPE DI PAOLO ● BLU SAND

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LE COQ SPORTIF ● SWAROVSKI ● NAU OTTICA ● Z Z MOLESKINE ● LE R O P LOCKER ● FOOT VI A LO BY LOVABLE ● LUSH ● SIGNORVINO ● OVS ● V

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● HILDEGARD ● ESIBIUSI ● EYETEC OTTICA ● CAMICERIA TIZIANO ● MELLUSO STORE ● WOOL CASHMERE

● DU PAREIL...AU MÊME ● JACADI ● NADINE ● OTTICA DANTE 16 O ● YAMAMAY LL VE ● GRISSPORT ● CELIO ● SEPHORA ● BATA ● L’OCCITANE ● PETIT BATEAU ● GUTTERIDGE VIA

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GOLDEN POINT ●

V I A PO R LE ZZ A

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MARIA GRAZIA MANESCALCHI ●

O DUOMO

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Metro

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CORSO COMO, GAE AULENTI & BRERA AREA Piazza Gae Aulenti, Corso Como & Corso Garibaldi STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI GARIBALDI FS

LA FELTRINELLI SWATCH ● ● READ EAT DREAM

SELECTED SHOPS IN STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI: Accessorize Calzedonia Eurobijoux Foot Locker I Gemelli Gioielli ER SP La Feltrinelli A TITO VI Tezenis

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I ● OR LL OL PE ● CHRIST IAN LOUBO UTIN ● VI OG CA ER M O SCHINO ● I A V. ● L E V I E N IA N SH V ● A D ID LU DS OM E WE AS ● IG QU P IN K ST ME IV O A S WO ER S RE N AU G A N D R ● VI GA A O D OD HTY CA 2 DOG ● R ● LO ● D MAN HSL EC GANO R IS ● ● 10 CO TO R FO ● B O U SO COMO R L ● M A E D E N E IG E P.24 IS ASH S S IM O ● G -S H ● BOU REBE OCK C L C ● ● M A E D E N E IG E H I ANTE NAELE ● SS P R IM ● AV E IM O R E B E ROBE A CC H I R RTO M O M O NÌ ● ● ER A Y TELE ● R IE ● L 55

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● 120% LINO ● VINTAGE WATCHES MILANO ● ARTEST BUT TER O ● ● SPAZIO 23 ● ASAP ● CUSTO BARCELONA ● BERGOMI

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TOP 3... COCKTAIL BARS Bar Martini Whether you prefer yours shaken or stirred, at Dolce & Gabbana’s Bar Martini your drink is guaranteed to be delectable. Sink into a velvet armchair and take in the sumptuous surroundings. If you’re feeling peckish, check out the selection of light bites. Bar Martini, Corso Venezia 15, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 1154, dolcegabbana.com/martini FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 109

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

Featured In This Issue

Bar Basso This historic drinking spot, with a 500-strong menu, is where the negroni sbagliato cocktail was created. Visit for a taste of authentic Milan. Bar Basso, Via Plinio 39, 20129 Milan, +39 02 2940 0580, barbasso.com Le Biciclette For a stunning choice of cocktails and a night out with the city’s trendiest locals, look no further. Le Biciclette, Via Torti 2, 20123 Milan, +39 02 5810 4325, lebiciclette.com

Shopping Centre/Mall

Train Station

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Via Solferino & Via Brera

Corso Garibaldi, Via Ponte Vetero & Via Madonnina I

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● MASSIMO ALBA

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LIP STIC K VINTAGE ●

BOFFI SOLFERINO ● FALIERO SARTI ● ST. BARTH ● AMINA RUBINACCI ● LIBERO MILANO ● MES DEMOISELLES ● SONIA DE NISCO ● THE STORE ●

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LARDINI Founded in 1978, family-run label Lardini has established itself as a high-quality manufacturer of tailored clothing. Having begun with its mainline, which creates elegant yet contemporary suiting for men and women, the brand has expanded. Its RVR Lardini line produces functional, reversible outerwear; Gabriele Pasini focuses on reinterpreting the three-piece suit in new and exciting colourways, while Wooster+Lardini combines the talents of Nick Wooster, the former fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman, with those of the Italian fashion house. Visit Lardini’s first Milan store, which opened in January, to discover the brand’s suave styles. Lardini, Via Gesù 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8716 9427, lardini.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 112

HARMONT & BLAINE Characterised by its signature dachshund motif, Harmont & Blaine is known for its refined casualwear. Since presenting its first collection in Capri in 1995 the brand has become synonymous with Mediterranean style, and its collections for men, women and children can be discovered at its Corso Matteotti store. Homely touches such as armchairs and flower-adorned fireplaces give the boutique a relaxed atmosphere, in keeping with the label’s easy-going clothing. To take a piece of Italy home with you, be sure to invest in Harmont & Blaine’s colourful designs. Harmont & Blaine, Corso Matteotti 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 9557, harmontblaine.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 109

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CORSO BUENOS AIRES AREA

DOUGLAS ● PERSONA ● ALTIERI ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

VA N

● MILANO HOUSE OF CASHMERE

FOSSIL ● BLUKIDS ● ● H&M SOLARIS ● ● JDC URBAN STORE KIKO ● PEPE JEANS ● ● DOCKSTEPS STEFANEL ● ● F.LLI SOLENNE GIOIELLI

Piazza Santa Francesca Romana

● PIQUADRO ● GUESS KIDS ● GUESS

GAMESTOP ● STRADIVARIUS ●

ST AL

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AN SS

IC OV OD AL VI

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Corso Buenos Aires

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V IA

VIA

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Piazza Guglielmo Oberdan

PORTA VENEZIA

PIG

BELSIRE An expert in men’s shoes and ties, Italian brand Belsire is in tune with the modern gentleman. Formal styles, including loafers and buckled shoes in the finest suede and leather, sit alongside more casual footwear designs, all of which showcase Belsire’s dedication to craftsmanship. Ties in a stunning array of prints and patterns hang proudly on the boutique’s wall and in display cases. A selection of pocket squares, belts, scarves and sunglasses are also available in-store, making Belsire a one-stop shop for all your finishing touches.

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Belsire, Corso Venezia 29, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3651 4996, belsire.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 109

Metro

SHOP SU RVEY SHOP, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading travel and shopping guide, wants to learn more about you, our readers. SHOP, the definitive guide to global shopping, publishes over three million magazines covering over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.

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DAY TRIP FIDENZA VILLAGE At only 60 minutes from Milan and Bologna, located in the heart of the ‘Food Valley’, discover more than 120 boutiques from Italian and international brands, all offering reductions of up to 70%.

Fidenza Village, Via San Michele Campagna, 43036 Fidenza, +39 0524 33551, fidenzavillage.com OPENING TIMES MondaySunday: 10am-8pm

MILANO CENTRALE STATION E35 A1

Fidenza Village

FIDENZA STATION

HOW TO GET THERE By Car Exit the A1 motorway at Fidenza/ Salsomaggiore. Pass the toll booth and Fidenza Village is 100 metres on your left.

By Shopping Express ® The Shopping Express® luxury coach service runs from central Milan (pick-up point Largo Cairoli/Via Cusani 18) to Fidenza Village daily.

By Train Fidenza station is on the direct line into Milano Centrale with frequent services and a journey time of around 60 minutes.

HOSPITALITY

GUEST SERVICES

information centre • Tourist and cafés • Restaurants cards • Gift Wi-Fi all around the Village • Free service and private lounge • Concierge (booking for a group on request) area (for a minimum of 10 people, • Lounge subject to availability)

shopping • Tax-free shopping • Hands-free storage • Luggage delivery service • Worldwide programmes • Frequent-flyer parking • Valet transfer (to be pre-booked) • Luxury • Personal shoppers

Train Station

Outlet Village

130

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Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form.

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Malpensa Airport: Terminal 1, Departures check-in, Area 12, second floor Terminal 1, Area A Schengen (after security control), first floor Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Linate Airport: Forexchange Maccorp, Departures Downtown Milan: La Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer service desk), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan Downtown Como: Viaggi Ronchi, Lungo Lario Trieste 10 141

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132

TRANSLATIONS

美文翻译 64: In The Know

今，博物馆和公共展览越来越多，吸引着新潮游客前来探究这座城市的设计遗产。

兰更好的地方了。Joanna McGinn为您精选体验米兰

为了庆祝传奇意大利品牌乔治 • 阿玛尼（Giorgio Armani）在时尚界叱咤风云 40年，Armani/ Silos博物馆于 2015年开放。馆中的一切展品皆彰显乔治 • 阿玛尼标志性的极简抽象室内设计风格。该博物馆以 2 0 世纪 50年代的粮仓（在英语中称为“筒仓（ silo）”）改造

文化的最佳去处

而成，其混凝土外墙颇具纪念意义，简朴的展厅里陈列

洞悉其中若要寻找以时尚和设计为核心的文化空间，没有比米

建筑从前是用来储存粮食的，毫无疑问，它关乎生命。

绝世界的奢侈购物体验吸引着八方来客。然而，她也

于我而言，服装就像食物一样，也是生命的一部分。”

是一座浸润着设计遗产的城市，从 20世纪初装饰拱廊

项目的监管者、馆长兼总监 Armani先生如是说。

与精品店初建，一直到 20世纪中叶的工业设计大爆炸 — —当时的米兰成为了“意大利制造”的中心。如 globalblue.com

在博物馆内部，常驻展览按主题分类，总计展出

400套服装与 200件饰品。从华美的礼服到乔治 • 阿玛

PHOTO: DAVIDE LOVATTI

的是品牌佳话。“我之所以决定叫它 Silos，是因为这座作为意大利无可争议的时尚与金融中心，米兰素以冠

134

尼 20世纪 80年代设计的经典服装，应有尽有。在高科

74: Back To The Future

技搜索区，学生和超级粉丝都可以预约使用电脑，访

回到未来

问庞大的网上档案馆。颇具远见的时尚传奇缪西娅 • 普拉达（ Miuccia Prada）一向积极赞助当代艺术，常与新锐的创意人士展开合作，普拉达基金会（ Fondazione Prada）便因

意大利主流时尚品牌正放眼过往的数十年，打造前沿系列产品。Beth Druce为您报道

此而成立。在这片广阔的展览空间里，极具历史意义的酒厂与质朴但又现代的建筑结构相映成趣，充满现代风格，它们和洒满阳光的庭院融为一体。自1993年开放以来，Sam Taylor- Wood、Steve McQueen和

Carsten Höller等艺术家都曾入驻于此。前来参观的家庭一定会喜欢普拉达基金会下属的

Accademia dei Bambini（儿童研究院）。这里专为儿童打造，用于举办创意十足的活动。优雅美丽的 Bar Luce酒吧是另一大亮点，由电影导演 Wes Anderson 操刀设计，呈现 50年代超现实 Formica复古风。 Achille Castiglioni基金会的“工作室博物馆 ” 宛若一块鲜为人知的宝石，应被列为每位设计爱好者必游清单之首。您不妨预订一次工作室之旅，参观已故意大利工业设计巨匠工作了60年的地方。这片空间将为您提供绝佳视角，深入了解这位曾设计出 Arco落地灯等经典作品的大师。Achille 的女儿 Giovanna会带领游客参观房间，房间里面堆满了书本、样品、草图和涂鸦，以及他绝不落俗套的拾得品 — —从望远镜到木板凳不一而足。 “ 放在那里的物品不仅仅可以观赏，Giovanna还会邀请访客触摸那些物品，坐在这片空间中感受生活。” Achille Castiglioni基金会主席 Carlo 去年秋天，普拉达（ Prada）发布了一部由 David O

轻型腕表：“这是低价量产的一个代表 — — 也是每件

Russell执导，Frieda Pinto、John Krasinksi和 Sacha Baron Cohen联袂出演的短片。该片名为《回顾向前》（ Past Forward），讨论人的记忆以及穿衣方式，阐

Castiglioni作品背后的理念。”

释了在特殊日子所穿的衣物如何影响我们对特定时刻

市内最新的一家设计博物馆 Museo del Design

的记忆。影片设置在极具未来感的环境中，并呈现出

1880 - 1980，讲述着意大利及国际产品设计的故事，

20世纪 50年代的风情。镜头捕捉了缪西娅·普拉达

从新艺术运动一直到意大利新浪潮。这家充满了现代

（ Miuccia Prada）的概念性艺术设计技法，并延伸到

气息的博物馆坐落于喧闹的 Navigli区。对于想要追赶 Gio Ponti和 Ettore Sottsass等意大利巨匠脚步的新

秀场之外，从更广泛的层面陈述服装如何塑造我们的

秀设计师来说，这里乃是不容错过的一站。严格说来，Villa Necchi不仅是一个设计空间，它

存在。“这部片子感觉就像是她设计作品的另一种表现形式， ”时尚学者、电台主播 Oonagh O’Hagan表示。“它的表述虽不明确，也未展开说明，但却让人觉

已然成为时尚内行狂热崇拜之地。奢华的花园中建有

得似曾相识，不论是影片中的某一个场景，还是她的

一座 20世纪 30年代的公馆，原本的艺术装饰风格保

某一个轮廓，感觉自己见过它，但它却是新鲜出炉的

留如初，为今天的城市带来一块静谧的绿洲。电影迷

作品。” 在众多继往开来的时尚设计师中，缪西娅·普拉

们都知道，这里是时尚潮片《我是爱》（ I Am Love）的取景之地。这里还定期举办时尚及设计主题展览、

达只是其中的一位。在米兰时装周 2017年春夏季系列

时装周和家具展（ Salone del Mobile）活动，Villa

中，设计师们从往季作品中汲取灵感，探索不同的方

Necchi在时尚圈的影响力也由此得到了进一步的提

式、形状和形态，通过模特走秀、静态展示等加以呈

升。

现。有着如此水准的时尚及设计空间，无怪乎世界各

在葆蝶家（ Bottega Veneta）的秀场，新老模特齐上阵，90后超模 Eva Herzigova和 Karen Elson与 70

globalblue.com

Castiglioni解释道。“这是一种独一无二的体验。通过这种方式，游客能立刻走进 Achille Castiglioni的作品之中。”Carlo最喜欢的物品，是一只简朴的 VLM

135

年代的时尚偶像 Lauren Hutton及现代缪斯 Gigi

82: Lasting Style

Hadid同台走秀。Hutton的露面颇有寓意：在 1980年的电影《美国舞男》（ American Gigolo）中，她便以葆蝶家 intreccio （编织皮）小手包装点造型。该品牌还生产了另外14款 intreccio手包，作为品牌 50周年的

永恒魅力

Luisa Spagnoli创造精美的意大利制造服装已有 85个年头了。Hannah Lewis 深入探索这个经久不衰的品牌

纪念单品。本季，葆蝶家服饰借鉴了一个来自上世纪 40年代的款型（艺术家 Norman Rockwell的作品提供了灵感），但并不仅限于复古。相反，皮革装饰点缀裙装，呈现出倒挂金钟和红色天竺葵的奢华色调。而该品牌赖以成名的层叠套装有着更偏中性的色调，凸显宽松层叠特色和实用的细节设计。范思哲（ Versace）设计师 Donatella Versace则沿袭品牌的编织元素，将之注入锐意开拓的未来系列当中。范思哲素来青睐的贴身网眼元素，借由闪耀的水晶得以重新诠释。而其标志性的粉蓝和热紫色调则一反惯常的浓墨重彩，转而追求一种偏重休闲、极具现代感的风格。正如米兰时装周上的葆蝶家一样，身穿范思哲服饰的模特面孔中既有老将又有新人：Naomi Campbell、Carmen Kass和 Doutzen Kroes与 Gigi Hadid、Edie Campbell携手并肩，证明大腕模特与新生代一样引人瞩目。 “ 将数十年的时间拼凑起来，是当下的一种做法， ” Sarah Mower在《时尚》（ Vogue）杂志中表示。她提到了时装周上的芬迪（ Fendi）大秀，该品牌创意总监 Karl Lagerfeld将大量或新或旧的影响元素一并呈现 — — 20年代的睡衣、18世纪的巴洛克单品、90年代的休闲裤、最近几十年流行的 PVC飞行员夹克融为一炉。Lagerfeld穷其一生将这种“贴纸设计

如果您觉得 Luisa Spagnoli这个名字不够熟悉，那么

技法”（ papier- mâché）锤炼得炉火纯青 — —不同的

这位传奇女性的作品一定不会让您感到陌生。

时代、题材以及关于时尚的奇思妙想被无缝融合在一起。如今，整个时尚界都在传承运用。这便解释了为什么 Alessandro Michele对古驰

于 1907年，时至今日仍在世界各地备受喜爱。随后，她

（Gucci）的大力改造不只是昙花一现的奇迹。2017

把关注点从糖果行业转向服装业，成为用安哥拉兔毛

年春夏季，这位设计师多重借鉴的梦幻作品达到了新

制作纱线的第一人，这款在当时全新的奢侈面料一经

的高度— — 他将其描述为“幻影”（ phantasmagoric’

推出便大获成功。自1928年起，Spagnoli和她的家族

）。18世纪中国女人的形象贯穿于整个系列之中，巴洛

在此基础上建立了一个有口皆碑的女装品牌，总部位

克和洛可可风格亦有迹可循，更有 70年代的衫裤套装

于翁布里亚（ Umbria）的首府佩鲁吉亚（ Perugia）。

和 80年代的衫裙套装，缀以闪亮的涂金纽扣和戴安娜

Luisa Spagnoli的品牌在 Spagnoli家族传承延

王妃钟爱的领口蝴蝶结。在 O’Hagan看来，Michele

续，随着时代的交替而几经变更。Luisa高瞻远瞩的孙

的工作如同一场“奇特的混搭 ” ，是对我们目前面临的

子 Lino于 1960年接手企业，实现了公司的现代化，极

动荡政治的自然回应。“ 在艰难时期，人们不想看到返

大地扩大了其影响力，品牌由此声誉大振。如今，该品

璞归真、极简抽象的时尚。相反，时尚倾向于走向浮

牌由创始人的曾孙女 Nicoletta Spagnoli担任首席执

夸，无论是通过魅影与怀旧，还是通过梦幻般的疯

行官，在她任职期间品牌成功吸引了更趋年轻的新顾

狂。” PHOTO: CROCCHIONI

她的首个商业帝国是 Baci Perugina巧克力 — — 以榛果为夹心的“浪漫之吻 ”巧克力 — — 问世

本季，普拉达、葆蝶家、范思哲、芬迪与古驰纷纷在新季系列中表示，时尚的历史并非架子上蒙着灰尘、

客群体，并将 Luisa Spagnoli打造成了意大利最负盛名的时尚品牌之一。在 Nicoletta Spagnoli的带领下，即使制衣行业面

鲜有人问津的造型档案。相反，它依然活在这个产业

临寒冬，Luisa Spagnoli在近几年仍然蒸蒸日上，屡

的当下，是有生命、有呼吸的一部分，此刻正将新季的

创佳绩。如今，品牌在意大利开设了 151家精品店，在

系列作品转化为顾客们一见钟情的衣装。

世界各地拥有 57家分店。Nicoletta相信，这一切都源

136

羁绊；求变而不忘本。对我来说，传统和创新正如一枚硬币的两面。每当我做新的尝试时，都会尽力融入我们的传统元素。” 因为对“意大利制造”服装形象的建立与巩固贡献良多，Nicoletta的远见卓识为 Luisa Spagnoli赢得了业界诸多殊荣，包括列奥纳多意大利质量奖（ Leonardo Award for Italian Quality）。但她最骄傲的成就 — —和 Luisa Spagnoli一样 — — 莫过于看到自己品牌所设计的服装被女性穿在身上并受到喜爱。与英国威廉王子喜结连理的凯特·米德尔顿便是

Luisa Spagnoli的一位忠实顾客。毫无疑问，Nicoletta正带领着品牌走向更光明的未来：“各种荣誉固然让我骄傲，但职业生涯中最令我满意的成就便是赢得凯特王妃的青睐。”在 Nicoletta眼中，剑桥公爵夫人是“气质和美丽的化身” ，她曾在众多重要正式场合身着 Luisa Spagnoli。有了来自王室的认可，品牌的影响力不言而喻。

自强大而经久不变的经营理念。“ 在经营过程中，我的

130: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

家族不断做出创新、甚至是大胆的决定，但与此同时，

畅购全球，尊享退税

永远尊重我们的过去、传统，以及养育我们的那片土地， ”她解释道。“ Luisa Spagnoli有着悠久的历史，几

当您在全球顶级购物区中的 30多万家商店消费时，环

乎长达一个世纪，但经营理念却始终一以贯之……尊

球蓝联购物退税服务（Global Blue Tax Free

重传统的最好方式就是：不断创新，更不忘初心。” 在过去的数十年间，该品牌以优质纱线和面料而独领风骚，与技艺精湛的工匠合作，所有产品均在意

Shopping）为您节省购物开销。每年大约有两千六百多万名旅客享用环球蓝联（Global Blue）的购物退税服务，何不加入他们的行

大利制造，大部分由自家工厂出产。“我们一直致力于

列？您只需在购物时留意环球蓝联（Global Blue）的

生产出真正高质量的产品， ”Nicoletta如是说道。

蓝星标志，或直接问询商家是否提供环球蓝联

该品牌经久不衰的另一大奥秘就是其标志性款式 — — 经典的“不分季风格”与前卫时尚元素的巧妙

（Global Blue）退税服务，然后遵循以下简单的退税流程即可：

结合，贯穿了整个 20世纪。Luisa Spagnoli非常欢迎新思潮，为女性打造出轻松休闲的廓形和长裤。2017

1. 购物消费

年春夏系列充分彰显了品牌个性，主打美丽的海洋风

无论您在哪里购物，请向商家索要环球蓝联退税表格

格服饰，如饰有 Breton条纹的露肩褶边上衣，令人不

（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并保存好购物

禁联想起风情万种的碧姬·芭铎（ Brigitte Bardot）。

票据。

另外，宽松的九分牛仔裤和浅蓝色花呢夹克也直观地诠释了当季的流行趋势。

2. 申领退税

“ Luisa Spagnoli设计的时装既充满女性的妩媚

在您返程离境前，请前往海关柜台，出示退税表格和

之美又百搭实用， ”Nicoletta表示。“我们的顾客都是‘

相关票据，获取海关印章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税

空中飞人’ ，经常需要出差，但希望在任何情况下保持

点领取退税款。

是休闲时分。”全新系列完美诠释了这个理念，服装的

联系方式：

款式适合各种场合。品牌非常注重“整体形象” ，在

taxfree@ globalblue. com + 421 232 111 111 最低消费 € 154. 94欧元即可申请退税，能够节省高达购买商品价15. 5%的税。请注意：您收到的退税款是

Nicoletta的带领下，产品线延伸至配饰、珠宝和手袋，供顾客搭配服装。

2013年，一款香水诞生，取名为 Luisa— —“这个名字再适合不过了， ”Nicoletta表示，它堪称品牌将传

增值税减去环球蓝联的手续费。如果您选择现金退

统和现代巧妙平衡的典范。“一家公司若想拥有独一

税，部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退税

无二的品牌形象，很简单，就是保持初心而不被过去

手

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PHOTO: DANNY MARTINDALE/WIREIMAGE

完美形象，每天的每一分每一秒，无论是正式场合还

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 64: In The Know

Для тех, кто понимает Джоанна МакДжинн рассказывает о самых интересных культурных пространствах Милана, посвященных моде и дизайну Милан – бесспорный центр моды и финансов Италии, и уже многие годы сюда стекаются туристы в поисках шоппинга мирового уровня. Помимо этого, город играет важную роль в истории дизайна: в первые десятилетия 20 века он застраивался пассажами и бутиками с модернистской отделкой. А в середине века, во время бума индустриального дизайна, именно Милан стал центром разработки продуктов, отмеченных ярлыком «сделано в Италии». В 2015 году состоялось открытие музея Armani/Silos, приуроченное к 40-летию легендарного бренда Armani. Знаменитый минимализм Джорджио Армани нашел свое воплощение в интерьерах музея. В 1950-е в этом здании находился амбар (silo на английском языке), а теперь за монументальным бетонным фасадом скрываются лаконичные по оформлению выставочные залы. На их спокойном фоне история бренда представлена очень сильно: «Я решил назвать это пространство Silos, потому что раньше строение использовалось для хранения самых необходимых для жизни продуктов. Я считаю, что одежда, как и еда, являются неотъемлемой частью жизни», – комментирует Армани. Он лично следит за реализацией проекта в роли куратора и директора. Постоянная экспозиция музея разделена по тематическому принципу. В нее входит 400 нарядов и 200 аксессуаров, от приковывающих взгляд платьев до знаменитых строгих костюмов 1980-х. Студенты и истинные фанаты могут получить доступ к обширному онлайн-архиву в исследовательском секторе, оборудованном на высоком технологическом уровне. Модный провидец Миучча Прада уже давно покровительствует современному искусству, регулярно сотрудничая с молодыми художниками. Ее страсть вылилась в создание Fondazione Prada – масштабного выставочного центра с залитыми солнцем внутренними

двориками. В его залах есть место и прекрасным старинным образцам, и дерзким современным работам. С момента открытия в 1993 году здесь выставлялись Сэм Тейлор-Вуд, Стив МакКуин и Карстен Хеллер. Детям понравится проводить время в специальном пространстве Accademia dei Bambini, где проводятся творческие мастерские для маленьких. А взрослым предназначен чудесный Bar Luce, оформлением которого занимался кинорежиссер Уэс Андерсон. Помещение убрано в фирменном стиле ретро-сюрреализма с использованием цветного пластика, популярного в 1950-е года. Визит в «музей-мастерскую» Fondazione Achille Castiglioni обязательно должен быть в списке дел каждого поклонника дизайна. Забронируйте экскурсию в студию, где на протяжении 60 лет работал великий маэстро итальянского индустриального дизайна Акилле Кастильони. Это поможет вам проникнуть в творческий мир человека, который подарил нам классические предметы интерьера, в частности, напольный светильник Arco. Его дочь Джованна сопроводит вас в путешествии по комнатам, доверху наполненным книгами, прототипами, рисунками, набросками и предметами из необычайной коллекции «ready made»: от очков до деревянных стульев. «Вещи разложены здесь не только для осмотра: Джованна всегда приглашает посетителей прикоснуться к ним, посидеть на них, прожить это пространство, – объясняет Карло Кастильони, президент Fondazione Achille Castiglioni. – Это уникальный опыт, поскольку таким образом вы глубже проникаете в работу Акилле Кастильони». Любимый объект Карло – простой выключатель VLM: «Это символ максимальной эффективности при низкой цене – именно эта идея стоит за каждым проектом Кастильони». Новейший музей дизайна Museo del Design 1880-1980 посвящен истории итальянского и мирового промышленного дизайна, от ар-нуво до итальянской новой волны. Он расположен в шумном районе Навильи и оформлен в современном стиле. Его посещают подающие надежды дизайнеры, чтобы учиться у таких итальянских мастеров, как Джо Понти и Этторе Соттсасс. Усадьба Villa Necchi, строго говоря, не связана с дизайном напрямую, но стала своего

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74: Back To The Future

Назад в будущее

Итальянские модные дома обращаются к прошлым десятилетиям, чтобы создавать современные коллекции, – рассказывает Бет Дрюс Прошлой осенью состоялась премьера короткометражного фильма для модного дома Prada «Past Forward», который снял режиссер Дэвид О. Расселл. В главных ролях – Фрида Пинто, Джон Красински и Саша Барон Коэн. Фильм посвящен теме памяти и тому, как одежда в целом или образ для отдельного дня помогает сохранить воспоминания об определенном моменте. Действие происходит в футуристичных декорациях и одновременно в атмосфере 1950-х, и это полностью совпадает с подходом Миуччи Прада к моде. Только теперь разговор о том, как одежда оформляет наш способ существования в мире, вышел за пределы подиумов: «Этот фильм воспринимается как еще одно проявление ее дизайна, – размышляет преподаватель моды и ведущая Уна О’Хаган. – Об этом не сказано явно или напрямую, но там все кажется знакомым, будь то сцена из фильма или одна из моделей. Не покидает ощущение, что вам это знакомо, хотя все идеи новые и свежие». Не только Миучча Прада обращается к прошлому, чтобы говорить о будущем. В коллекциях весна-лето 2017 на Миланской неделе моды прошлое проявлялось самыми разными способами, фигурами и формами, причем не только в дизайне одежды, но и в общей стилистике и подборе моделей. Во время показа Bottega Veneta супермодели 1990-х Ева Герцигова и Карен Эльсон демонстрировали коллекцию вместе с иконой стиля семидесятых Лорен Хаттон и музой наших дней Джиджи Хадид. Участие Лорен Хаттон было вполне уместным и объяснимым: в фильме 1980 года «Американский жиголо» ее героиня держала в руках клатч Bottega Veneta из плетеной кожи intreccio. К своему 50-летию модный дом воспроизвел этот клатч и 14 других сумок в технике intreccio. Одежда Bottega Veneta в этом сезоне

PHOTO: BAS PRINCEN/FONDAZIONE PRADA

рода культовым местом для модной публики. Само здание, утопающее в пышных садах, было построено в 1930-е годы, и оригинальные элементы ар-деко сохранились в первозданном виде. В этом оазисе тишины посреди шумного города киноманы узнают декорации к фильму «Я – это любовь». А стильный статус Villa Necchi подтверждается регулярными выставками моды и дизайна и специальными событиями в рамках модной недели Salone del Mobile. Неудивительно, что при столь масштабных и интересных культурных институциях, стильные путешественники теперь отправляются в Милан не только за шоппингом.

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напоминает о силуэтах 1940-х (и создана под вдохновением от произведений художника Нормана Роквелла), но при этом лишена откровенных коннотаций ретро. Напротив, фрагменты из кожи искусно встроены в платья и другие вещи роскошных оттенков фуксии и красной герани, а более нейтральные комплекты, характерные для этого бренда, делают акцент на свободные формы и практичные детали. Дизайнер Донателла Версаче вплетает прошлое бренда Versace в новую коллекцию, которая ориентирована на будущее. Затянутый в сетку силуэт, давний прием Versace, был переосмыслен здесь с помощью сияющих кристаллов. А фирменные солнцезащитные очки, выполненные в пудренном синем и горячем пурпурном оттенках, теперь не выглядят авангардными, а созданы для современного спортивного образа. Как и у

Bottega Veneta, на Миланской неделе моды одежду Versace представляли персоны как из прошлого, так и из будущего: Наоми Кэмпбелл, Кармен Касс и Даутцен Крус вышли на подиум вместе с Джиджи Хадид и Эди Кэмпбел, чем продемонстрировали, что авторитетное и хорошо известное может быть столь же притягательным и интересным, как новое. «Коллажи из десятилетий очень востребованы сейчас», – отметила Сара Моуэр в статье для Vogue, говоря о показе Fendi на Неделе моды. Креативный директор Fendi Карл Лагерфельд обратился к прошлым и новым трендам и свел их воедино: пижама 1920-х, барочные вещи 18 века, карго-брюки 1990-х и куртки-бомберы из ПВХ прошлого десятилетия. На протяжении своей карьеры Лагерфельд оттачивал эту технику до совершенства, а теперь вся модная индустрия принимает такой подход к дизайну, когда, как папье-маше, в одном котле сплавляются различные эпохи, жанры и идеи. На этом фоне и революционное обновление Gucci, которое произвел Алессандро Микеле, оказалось не просто событием одного сезона. В коллекции весна-лето 2017 Микеле вышел на новый уровень фантазирования о различных эпохах, он сам называет это «фантасмагорией». Сквозь всю серию проходят китайские мотивы 18 века, элементы барокко и рококо, а также отсылки к брючным костюмам 1970-х и костюмам с юбкой 1980-х, дополненным блестящими позолоченными пуговицами и шейными бантами в стиле принцессы Дианы. О’Хаган называет работу Микеле «остроумной мешаниной», которая стала естественной реакцией на политическую незащищенность нашего времени: «Когда наступают сложные времена, люди не хотят видеть спокойную минималистскую моду. Наоборот, мода стремится к легкомысленности. Через блеск и ностальгию или фантазийное сумасбродство». В коллекциях этого сезона Prada, Bottega Veneta, Versace, Fendi и Gucci наглядно показали, что прошлое моды – это не те образы, которые когда-то были популярны, а теперь списаны в архив и пылятся на полках. Наоборот, это живая, дышащая часть модного процесса. И именно она прямо сейчас делает коллекции нового сезона очень желанными.

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82: Lasting Style

Стиль с историей Ханна Льюис рассказывает о бренде Luisa Spagnoli, который уже более 85 лет создает красивую одежду в Италии

Имя Луизы Спаньоли может вам ни о чем не сказать, но изобретения этой влиятельной женщины, определенно, близки многим. Ее первым предприятием стал выпуск конфет Baci Perugina. Шоколадные «поцелуи» (так переводится слово Baci) с фундуком появились в 1907 году, и до сих пор их любят во всем мире. Вскоре внимание Спаньоли переключилось на одежду, и она первой globalblue.com

создала пряжу из шерсти кроликов ангорской породы. На мгновенном успехе этой передовой и качественной ткани Луиза Спаньоли вместе с семьей начала строить бренд женской одежды. С 1928 года компания под ее собственным именем работает в Перудже, столице Умбрии. На протяжении всей истории бренд Luisa Spagnoli принадлежит семье Спаньоли, которая адаптирует его к каждому новому десятилетию. В 1960 году компанию возглавил внук Луизы Лино, он провел модернизацию и существенно расширил ее присутствие, продолжив выстраивать репутацию. Сейчас бренд в руках праправнучки основательницы Николетты Спаньоли, которой как исполнительному директору доверили привлечь новых молодых покупателей и сделать бренд одним из самых престижных в Италии. За время работы Николетты Спаньоли компания достигла больших успехов, которым не помешали даже общие для всей модной индустрии трудности. Сегодня у бренда 151 бутик в Италии и еще 57 в других странах мира. Николетта относит эти свершения на счет сильной и проверенной временем философии Luisa Spagnoli: «Моя семья управляет компанией с помощью передовых и иногда очень смелых решений. Но при этом мы всегда с уважением относится к корням, традициям и земле, на которой мы работаем. У Luisa Spagnoli большая история, почти целый век, но философия остается неизменной... уважение к традиции – это лучший способ привносить новации и никогда не терять идентичность». На протяжении десятилетий этот бренд гордится использованием качественных тканей и пряжи, сотрудничеством с профессиональными мастерами и локальностью производства, главным образом на собственных фабриках в Италии. «Мы всегда выполняем наши обязательства по высокому качеству продукции», – комментирует Николетта. Еще один сильный фактор идентичности Luisa Spagnoli – это узнаваемый стиль. Он представляет собой органичное сочетание внесезонной классики и ориентированных на тренды вкраплений. Это оставалось неизменным на протяжении всего 20 века, даже когда компания осваивала веяния нового

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времени, например, брюки для женщин и свободные силуэты. Коллекция весна-лето 2017 выполнена в духе фирменного стиля и включает красивые морские вещи, например, приспущенный с плеч бретонский топ с кружевом, который напоминает об иконе стиля Бриджит Бардо. Более непосредственно к трендам текущего сезона относятся широкие укороченные джинсы и мягкий синий твидовый пиджак. «Покупательница Luisa Spagnoli одновременно женственна и практична, – размышляет Николетта. – Она профессиональная путешественница и всегда находится в движении, но при этом хочет идеально выглядеть в любой ситуации, как официальной, так и повседневной, в любой момент дня». Новая коллекция идеально подходит под это описание, и в ней действительно есть комплекты на любой случай. Вообще, идея образа, целиком составленного из вещей одной марки, очень важна для марки Luisa Spagnoli. Поэтому под руководством Николетты ассортимент бренда пополнился аксессуарами, украшениями и сумками, которыми покупательницы могут дополнить свои наряды. В 2013 году бренд представил собственный аромат. Парфюм получил название Luisa: как говорит Николетта, «по-другому и быть не могло». И этот проект – прекрасный пример идеального баланса между наследием и современностью: «Идентичность компании – это очень просто: оставайтесь тем, кем вы всегда были, но не застревайте в прошлом; меняйтесь, но не забывайте о корнях. Я воспринимаю традиции и изменения как две стороны одной медали. Всякий раз, принимая новое решение двигаться вперед, я стараюсь учитывать и наше наследие». Идеи Николетты для Luisa Spagnoli получили признание в профессиональном сообществе. Об этом свидетельствует, в частности, премия Leonardo Award for Italian Quality за помощь в развитии и укреплении статуса итальянской одежды. Но самое большое достижение, как это всегда было в Luisa Spagnoli, связано с любовью женщин к одежде марки. А если одна из этих женщин – Кейт Миддлтон,

супруга британского Принца Уильяма, то это только подтверждает правильный курс Николетты: «Конечно, престижная премия наполняет меня гордостью, но одним из самых приятных результатов моей работы стало завоевание сердца Кейт Миддлтон». Герцогиня Кембриджская, которую Николетта называет «иконой стиля и красоты», появлялась в образах Luisa Spagnoli на многих важных официальных событиях. Королевская печать одобрения еще раз подтверждает, что бренд Luisa Spagnoli попрежнему столь же влиятельный, каким был всегда. 130: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить Tax Free формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте свыше €154.94 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

日本語 64: In The Know デザイン通必見のスポットファッションやデザインを中心に据えた文化施設にかけては、ミラノに優る都市はない。ジョアナ・マッギンが必見スポットを紹介する。イタリアのファッションとファイナンスの中心地として揺るぎない地位を誇るミラノは昔から、世界有数の高級品ショッピングのメッカとして観光客を魅了してきたが、装飾的なアーケードやブティックが建設された1900年代初頭から「メイド・イン・イタリア」製品が集まるハブとなった20世紀半ばのインダストリアルデザインブーム期まで、デザインの歴史も実に豊かだ。現在は新たにスタイル通を惹きつける博物館や公共スペースが増えて、デザインの伝統も堪能できるようになっている。イタリアを代表するブランドの40周年を記念して2015年にオープンしたアルマーニ・シーロス美術館は、ジョルジオ・アルマーニ独特のミニマリスト的インテリアデザインスタイルが全ての基礎になっている。1950年代に建てられた穀物倉庫（英語で「サイロ（Silo）」）を改装したこの博物館は、外観は堂々たるコンクリート造りで展示ホールもごくシンプル。それだからこそ、ブランドのストーリーが光る。「シーロス（サイロ）と呼ぶことにしたのは、この建物が食物保管庫として使われていたから。食はもちろん生きていくのにかかせないもの。私にとっては、衣も食と

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同じく生活の一部なんです」と、このプロジェクトの監督で同館のキュレーター兼ディレクターでもあるアルマーニはいう。館内にはテーマ別の常設展があり、話題をかっさらったロングドレスからジョルジオ・アルマーニの有名な1980年代パワースーツまで、400着の服と200 点のアクセサリーが展示されている。学生や熱烈ファンなら、ハイテク研究エリアの広範なオンラインアーカイブへのアクセスを予約することも可能だ。ファッション界の未来を見通すミウッチヤ・プラダは長年、現代アートのパトロンとして積極的に活動しており、新進創作家とのコラボもしょっちゅう行っている。そうした情熱を体現したのがフォンダツィオーネ・プラダ（プラダ財団）だ。広大な展示スペースは、歴史ある蒸留所の建物に平然と飾り気のないモダンな建物を組み合わせ、中庭には陽光が燦々と降り注ぐ。1993年にオープンして以来、サム・テイラー・ウッド、スティーブ・マックイーン、カーステン・ヘラーといったアーティストの展覧会を催してきた。家族連れなら、創作ワークショップが開催される子供用エリア「アカデミア・デイ・バンビーニ」が気に入るだろう。映画監督ウェス・アンダーソンがデザインした豪華なバール・ルーチェも注目だ。あまり知られていないが、フォンダツィオーネ・アッキーレ・カスティリオーニ（アッキーレ・カスティリオーニ財団）の「スタジオミュージアム」も、デザインマニアならぜひ訪ねたいところ。今は亡きイタリアン・インダストリアルデザインの巨匠アッキーレ・カスティリオーニが60年間仕事したスタジオのツアーを予約しよう。「アルコ」フロアランプなどの名品を世に送り出した男の生き様を物語るこの空間に胸躍ることだろう。彼の娘のジョヴァンナさんが、本や試作品、図面、走り書きに加え、メガネから木の腰掛など彼の突飛な収拾物コレクションが所狭しと並ぶ部屋を案内してくれる。「それらの物はただ見ていただくために置かれているのではありません。ジョヴァンナは来館される方々に、物に触れ、椅子に座って、空間を実際に体験してくださいと促しています」と、アッキーレ・カスティリオーニ財団のカルロ・カスティリオーニ理事長はいう。「そうすることで、来館者はたちまちアッキーレ・カスティリオーニの仕事の世界へと誘われます。まさにここでしか味わえない体験ができるというわけです。」カルロが一番気に入っているオブジェは、地味なVLMライトスイッチだ。「これぞ廉価大量生産のシンボル。カスティリオーニのプロジェクト全てに共通する考え方の象徴だと思います。」ミラノで最も新しいデザイン博物館「ムゼオ・デル・デザイン1880-1980」は、アールヌーボーからイタリアン・ニューウェーブまで、イタリアと世界のプロダ

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クトデザインを専門に展示している。賑やかなナヴィリオ地区にある超モダンなこのスペースは、ジオ・ポンティ、エットーレ・ソットサスといったイタリアの巨匠について猛勉強したい新米デザイナーには見逃せない。また、厳密にはデザイン展示スペースではないが、ヴィラ・ネッキもファッション通には人気の場所だ。緑生い茂る庭園に囲まれた1930年代の豪邸で、オリジナルのアールデコ装飾をそのまま保存し、現在ではこの都市の憩いのオアシスになっている。映画ファンには、洗練きわまる映画「ミラノ、愛に生きる」の舞台としてお馴染みだろう。この建物のスタイル性は、ファッションやデザインをテーマとする展示会の他、ファッションウィークやミラノサローネ・デル・モービレ（ミラノサローネ国際家具見本市）のイベントの会場となることでさらに高まっている。ファッションやデザインをテーマとしたこんな高レベルの空間があるミラノ。ショッピング目当てだけではないスタイリッシュな観光客が世界中から押し寄せるのも不思議はない。

74: Back To The Future バック・トゥー・ザ・フューチャー過去数十年を振り返りつつ現代のコレクションを製作するイタリアの有力ファッションハウス。べス・ドゥルースがレポートする。プラダが昨秋、デヴィッド・O・ラッセル監督、フリーダ・ピント、ジョン・クラシンスキー、サシャ・バロン・コーエン出演の短編映画をリリースした。『パースト・フォワード』と題されたこの映画は記憶をテーマにし、ある瞬間の記憶に服装、つまり私たちがその日身に付けていたものがどう関わっているかを探った作品。1950年代を彷彿とする未来世界を舞台に、キャットウォーク上にとどまらず、広い意味で装いが人間の存在をいかに形作るかを見せるミウッチヤ・プラダのコンセプチュアル・アート的なアプローチをとらえた。「この映画は彼女のデザインを別の形で表現したよう」というのは、ファッション研究者でもあるブロードキャスターのウーナ・オヘイガンだ。「はっきりと何と明言も説明もしていないけれど、映画の一場面とかミウッチャの作るシルエットとか、何となく知っている感じがするんです。見たことがありそうで、実は斬新。」未来を形作る際に過去を要素として取り入れるファッションデザイナーは、ミウッチヤ・プラダだけではない。ミラノ・ファッションウィークで披露された 2017年春夏コレクションでは、過去が服のデザインだけでなくスタイリングやモデルまで様々な方法や

形で反映されていた。ボッテガ・ヴェネタでは1990年代のスーパーモデル、エヴァ・ハーツィゴヴァとカレン・エルソンが、70年代のスタイルアイコン、ローレン・ハットンや現代のミューズ、ジジ・ハディッドと共にキャットウォークを闊歩。1980年の映画「アメリカン・ジゴロ」でボッテガ・ヴェネタのイントレッチオ（皮紐編み込み）クラッチバッグを使っていたハットンの起用は、まさにふさわしい。同レーベルは創立50周年を記念して、このバッグをはじめ15種の復刻版イントレッチオバッグを出した。今シーズンのボッテガ・ヴェネタの服は1940年代のシルエットを参考にしているが（アーティストのノーマン・ロックウェルの作品がインスピレーションとなったという）、いかにもレトロという雰囲気はない。それどころか、レザーを巧みにテイラーリングしたドレスやセパレーツにはフューシャピンクやレッドゼラニウムといった豪華なトーンが使われ、同ブランドお得意のニュートラルトーンのアンサンブルはゆったりとしたレイヤーや実用的なディテールを強調したデザインになっている。ヴェルサーチではデザイナーのドナテッラ・ヴェルサーチが同ブランドの過去を未来に向けたコレクションの要素として取り入れている。ヴェルサーチの特徴として定着している体にぴったりしたメッシュをきらめくクリスタルで刷新し、パウダーブルーや鮮やかなパープルといったヴェルサーチ独特の色使いも、いつものインパクトの強いグラマラスな魅力でなくスポーティな宇宙時代のイメージを追求している。ミラノ・ファッションウィークでのボッテガ・ヴェネタのショーと同じく、ヴェルサーチの服を披露するモデルたちも過去と未来の顔を揃えた。ナオミ・キャンベル、カルメン・カス、ドウツェン・クロースがジジ・ハディッド、エディ・キャンベルと共に登場し、確立された有名人も新しい顔ぶれと同じように魅力的になれることを示して見せた。「異なる時代をコラージュすることが今の流行りです」と、サラ・モウワーがヴォーグ誌で語っている。ファッションウィークでのフェンディのショーについてのコメントだが、同レーベルではクリエイティブディレクターのカール・ラガーフェルドが、1920年代のスリープウェア、18世紀のバロック風ファッション、1990年代のカーゴパンツ、最近では2000年代以降のPVCボマージャケットなど様々な要素を新旧織り交ぜて取り入れていた。ラガーフェルドは自身のキャリアを通じてこのテクニックに磨きをかけ素晴らしい効果を上げてきたが、今は業界全体が、異なる時代、ジャンル、ファッション観をシームレスに融合するこの張り子細工のようなデザイン法を採用しているのだ。

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82: Lasting Style 長年愛されるスタイルルイーザ・スパニョーリは美しいイタリア製の服を85 年以上にわたって作ってきた。この人気レーベルについてハンナ・ルイスがレポートする。ルイーザ・スパニョーリという名前に馴染みはなくとも、影響力の大きな彼女が発明したものを見ればピンと来るはず。ルイーザが最初に手掛けたビジネスは、ヘーゼルナッツの入った一口サイズのチョコレート「バーチ・ペルジーナ」というお菓子だった。1907年発売で今も世界中で愛されるスイーツだ。その後、お菓子づくりから洋服づくりに転向した彼女は、アンゴラウサギの毛から糸を作った最初の人となる。この贅沢な新素材は発売されるなりたちまち有名になり、1928 年以降、スパニョーリとその一族はこの素材を中心としたウーマンズウェアブランドをウンブリアの州都ペルージャで確立し名声を得る。「ルイーザ・スパニョーリ」のレーベルは創設以来スパニョーリ一族の手で経営され、時代に適応してきた。ルイーザの孫で先見の明があったリノが 1960年に家業を継ぎ、会社を近代化し、手を広げて現在の評判を築き上げた。今このブランドの舵をとるのは創業者のひ孫にあたるニコレッタ・スパニョーリ。ニコレッタはCEOとして新たに若年層の顧客を引き付け、ブランドをイタリア有数の高級ファッションレーベルへ育て上げたとして高く評価されている。ニコレッタ・スパニョーリが監督する同社は近年の向かい風の服飾業界にあっても成長を続け、大成功を収めてきた。現在はイタリアに151のブティックを持ち、さらに世界各地に57店を展開するまでになっている。ニコレッタいわく、これは時代を問わないしっかりした理念を貫いてきたおかげだという。「私の一族は、画期的で時には勇気を要する選択をしながら会社を運営してきましたが、自分たちのルーツと伝統、そしてそれが根差す土地に対する敬意を忘れたことはありませんでした。ルイーザ・スパニョーリには1世紀近い長い歴史がありますが、その理念は変わっていません。自分のアイデンティティを失うことなく革新する最善の方法は伝統を重んじること、という理念です。」同ブランドはこれまで数十年にわたって極上の糸と生地を用い、熟練の職人の手によって、全商品をイタリアで（大方は自社工場で）作ってきたことを誇りにしている。「本質的に品質の高い商品を保証することを、当社では常にサポートしてきました」と、ニコレッタは説明する。

アレッサンドロ・ミケーレによる大胆なグッチの再生も当然、1シーズン限りの現象に終わってはいない。2017年春夏のミケーレ作品は、自身が「ファンタスマゴリック（変幻自在）」と呼ぶ複数要素を取り入れたファンタジーの新レベルに到達している。コレクション全体に18世紀のシノワーズスタイルが反映され、同時にバロックやロココのデザイン、金ボタンやダイアナ妃風ボウタイのついた1970年代のパンツスーツや1980年代のスカートスーツといった要素も。オヘイガンにとってミケーレの作品は「風変りのマッシュアップ」で、これは現代の政情不安への自然なリアクションだという。「辛い時代には無駄を削ぎ落としたミニマリスト的な装いはしたくないもの。そういう時代は、ファッションがむしろ軽薄化する傾向にあります。グラマラスな魅力やノスタルジア、ファンタジー的な突飛さを求めるのです。」プラダ、ボッテガ・ヴェネタ、ヴェルサーチ、フェンディ、グッチが揃って今シーズンのコレクションで示したのは、過去のファッションは古文書庫の棚で埃をかぶり時折覗き込むだけのものではなくなったということ。むしろ現代ファッション界の一部として生き、息づくものであり、今や新シーズンのコレクションをクライアントがたちまち欲しくなる服に変貌させる要素になっているのだ。

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もう一つ守り抜いてきたのはこのレーベル独特のスタイル。飽きが来ずシーズンを問わず着られるスタイルと流行に敏感な要素との微妙なバランスだ。これは、ルイーザ・スパニョーリがゆったりしたシルエットや女性用パンツなど新しいアイデアを取り入れた20世紀を通して維持されてきた。2017年春夏コレクションもこのレーベルのパーソナルスタイルを反映し、ブリジット・バルドーなどのスタイルアイコンを思わせるブレトンストライプのオフショルダー・ラッフルトップをはじめ、海をテーマとした美しい作品が特徴だ。その他、ゆるやかなフィットのクロップドジーンズやソフトなブルーツイードのジャケットは、今シーズンのトレンドをストレートに反映している。「ルイーザ・スパニョーリのお客様は女性らしさと実用性を同時に重んじます」と、ニコレッタはいう。「仕事で旅をし常に移動していますが、フォーマルとカジュアルの別を問わず、時間帯にも関係なくどんな時も完璧に装いたい人なんです。」最新コレクションはどういった場面にも合い、まさにこのブリーフにぴったり。「トータルルック」という概念をとても大切にするこのブランドは、ニコレッタの指揮の下、品揃えをアクセサリーやジュエリー、バッグまで広げて、クライアントが装いを完璧に仕上げられるようにしてきた。香水を導入したのは2013年。ルイーザと名付けられた（ニコレッタいわく「他の名前は考えられませんでした。」）この商品は、同ブランドが伝統と近代性の絶妙なバランスを実現した好例だ。「会社がアイデンティティを持つということはごくシンプルなこと。つまり、過去にとらわれることなく、今までの自分でありつづけること、ルーツを捨て去ることなく変化していくことなんです。伝統と革新は私にとっては表裏一体。革新的な選択をしようとする時は必ず、自社の伝統を組み入れるようにしています。」ニコレッタが描くビジョンを追求した結果、ルイーザ・スパニョーリは、イタリア製服のイメージの開発強化に寄与した高品質イタリア製品に与えられるレオナルド賞など数々の業界賞を獲得している。だ

が、彼女が一番誇らしく感じている実績は、ルイーザ・スパニョーリがこれまで一貫して注力してきた「女性が愛用する服づくり」だ。そして、そんな愛用者の一人が英国のウィリアム王子妃ケイト・ミドルトンというのだから、ニコレッタが同レーベルをいい方向へ導いているのは確かだ。「賞をいただけば、それは誇らしく思います。ただ、自分のキャリアの中で最も嬉しかったことはといえば、やはりケイト・ミドルトンのハートをつかんだことですね。」ニコレッタが「スタイルと美の象徴」と称するケンブリッジ公爵夫人は、いくつもの重要な公式行事でルイーザ・スパニョーリを着ている。こうした王室のお墨付きを得て、このブランドが今までにも増して影響力を持つことは間違いない。

130: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税にグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある30万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを踏むだけです。 1. お買い物お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。 2.還付請求ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にスタンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。お問い合わせ： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.94を超えるお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望の場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課されます。

IN THE BAG Stand out this season with an Orciani Sveva handbag. Handcrafted in Italy, it is available in two sizes and a variety of colours, including blue, orange and pink, as well

as this fiery-toned version made from python skin. Claudio Orciani wanted to create belts which were unlike anything else available and so set up his label in 1979. Claudio later added bags to his offering and has become known for the use of

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

high-quality raw materials, outstanding designs and excellent craftsmanship. fm Orciani Sveva handbag, â&#x201A;Ź1,245, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, orciani.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 107

PHOTO: BRIGIDAS

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