SEOUL | 首尔 | ソウル
SEOUL 首尔 City Edition Autumn/Winter 2016/17 2016/17 秋冬 城市版
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STREET CRED: the rise and rise of Seoul Fashion Week
名扬四海: 首尔时装周大放异彩
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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera
دليل أملانيا 德国
Германия
Welcome to Seoul SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 8% when shopping in South Korea. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Seoul. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE card – the simplest way to shop tax free without filling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join. 欢迎来到首尔
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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN
巴黎
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CONTRIBUTORS
他运用独特的画风,以首尔现代 的城市天际线为背景,封面女郎 的优雅长裙被延展设计成了一条 路,环绕历史建筑华城。 欲查看更多插画封面,请登录 globalblue/covers。
PHOTO: ANSTRO 2012
ILLUSTRATION: RUI RICARDO
Rui Ricardo Rui Ricardo created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Seoul. His unique style makes him perfect for this cover illustration, inspired by our feature on Seoul Fashion Week on page 30. It shows the long skirt of a woman’s elegant dress turning into a road around the historic Hwaseong Fortress, backed by Seoul’s ultramodern skyline. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers. Rui Ricardo创意了本季 SHOP首尔版的封面。受本期第 30页首尔时装周专题文章启发,
Junjie Dou Before becoming SHOP’s associate Chinese editor, Junjie Dou worked on publications in Nanjing and Seattle. 窦俊杰毕业于英国威斯敏斯特 大学国际新闻系,在成为SHOP 杂志中文副主编之前,她曾为南 京和西雅图的多家出版物工作。 globalblue.com
Claire Gervat One of SHOP’s copy editing team, Claire Gervat has written for a wide range of newspapers and magazines. 与SHOP团队合作编辑内容之 余,Claire Gervat 还为多家旅 游、生活方式类报纸、杂志等出版 物撰稿。
Caterina Mazzolai Caterina Mazzolai, SHOP’s production editor, has an MA in publishing from the London College of Communication. Caterina Mazzolai现任 SHOP杂志流程责编,毕业于伦 敦传媒学院(London Colleage of Communication)。
#태연템 #태연CC #하루종일예쁘다 #너하나면돼
au
e
volution
unique
CC Cover
new 바닐라코 잇 래디언트 CC커버 크림
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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Rui Ricardo Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion writer Danielle De Wolfe News editor Ginger Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistants Charlotte Rogers, Selina Tan Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Milkha Lala Artworking assistant Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen
G L O B A L B L U E KO R E A
Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto
Global Blue Korea, 1402 Seoul Center Building, 116 Sogong-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea 04533 Co. Reg. No. 202-81-63838
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Country managing director Korea Yong Woon Kim Marketing sales manager James Ryu Key account managers Young Ho Chung, Jung Hwan Lee Account managers Sung Tae Choi, Gwang Hyun Jin, Sang Jun Han, Kwang Hee Park, Cheol Hoon Kim
Sales and distribution partner Media Plus, +82 (0)2 3785 2300 Director Young Sik Kim Printed in Seoul by GeoMarketing C Ltd, Co. Reg. No. 120-81-85559 National tourist office Korea Tourism Organization
Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian
Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Sammy Ha, Adanna Nwachuku
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue
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CONTENTS p.25
Products
热门尚品
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20 焦 点美物 SHOP为您精选本季首尔最出挑的产品 22 热门尚品
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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Seoul this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
News 26 27
Shop Window One store not to be missed in Seoul News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
Features 30
新闻热点 26 橱窗购物 首尔不容错过的商店
27 新闻热点 本季最新商店、服务与产品一览
专题故事 30 封面故事: 步步为营 首尔时装周立志成为全世界最具影响力的时尚 盛会,本季度的时装周势头强劲,Claire Gervat为您带来报道
Cover story: Step It Up
Seoul Fashion Week is aiming to be one of the world’s most influential of its kind, and the signs from this season’s shows are encouraging, says Claire Gervat
Guide 37
本季最当红造型——从服饰、鞋履到珠宝和配 饰都焕然一新
Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Seoul
城市指南 37 地图与指南引领您探索首尔的购物圣地 退税须知 44 如何购物退税 简单几步帮您边购物边省钱
Essentials
美文翻译
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46 日本語翻訳
How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
Translations
旅游手信 48 最佳回国伴手礼
46 日本語翻訳
Souvenir 48
The essential item to bring home
Above: Omega’s newly redesigned flagship store in the Cheongdam district
MLB 明洞店 : 首尔特别市中区忠武路1街23-10 TEL . 02-779-8772
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CHECK OUT
SMOOTH OPERATOR
Acqua di Parma的焕颜精华素柔顺眼部周围肌 肤,为其卓越的Collezione Barbiere产品系列锦上 添花。其主要成分包括从非洲桦树皮中提取出来的
Ellagi-C,促进维他命C的吸收与骨胶原合成。创 Acqua di Parma has extended its highperformance Collezione Barbiere line of shaving products with a serum to revitalise the delicate skin around the eye. Its formula includes Ellagi-C, extracted from the bark of the African birch, which stimulates vitamin C absorption and increases the synthesis of collagen. With its round steel applicator, which gently massages the eye area, this product is a perfect daily treatment for those wanting to maintain a youthful appearance. xd Save up to 8% by shopping tax free, see page 44
新金属滚珠轻柔按摩眼部周边,这款眼霜助您青春 焕发,实属绝佳日用养护。Acqua di Parma在设计 Collezione Barbiere高功能男士护理系列时借鉴 了意大利理发师的技艺,使日常剃须变得更加轻松 高效。
Acqua di Parma Collezione Barbiere Revitalizing Eye Serum, 15ml, 88,000 KRW, Galleria (West), 343 Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06088, +82 (0)2 3449 4114, acquadiparma.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 41
EN GL ISH | Р УС С К И Й | 中 文
VISIT US ONLINE... The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru
globalblue.cn 每日更新精品购物信 息,分享海外省钱秘笈 FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- GlobalBlue /globalblue /globalblue
PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
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22 | P RO D U C T S
DARK REBEL Metallic accessories add sophistication to this rock-chick look
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搭配金属饰品穿出摇滚时尚范儿
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1. Mulberry biker jacket, 5,898,000 KRW, Mulberry at Hyundai Department Store, 165 Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06001, +82 (0)2 3438 6140, mulberry.com
3. Louis Vuitton hat, 1,700,000 KRW, Louis Vuitton at Shinsegae, 176 Sinbanpo-ro, Seocho-gu, Seoul 06546, +82 (0)2 3432 1854, louisvuitton.com
2. Jimmy Choo shoes, 4,365,000 KRW, Hyundai Department Store, 517 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06164, +82 (0)2 3467 8720, jimmychoo.com
4. Givenchy bracelet, price on request, Givenchy, 414 Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06014, +82 (0)2 517 7560, givenchy.com
Save up to 8% by shopping tax free, see page 44
5. Prada key holder, 270,000 KRW, saffiano key charm, 370,000 KRW, saffiano agenda charm, 580,000 KRW, metal key charm, 340,000 KRW, Prada, 447 Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06010, +82 (0)2 3442 1830, prada.com
PHOTO: (2) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY
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S H O P | 23
WINTER EARTH
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Natural shades form a perfect seasonal combination 用自然色打造出本季的完美造型
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1. Burberry coat, 3,300,000 KRW, Burberry, 459 Dosan-daero, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06015, +82 (0)2 3485 6600, burberry.com
3. Montblanc Peggy Guggenheim pen, 11,090,000 KRW, Montblanc, Galleria (West), 343 Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06088, +82 (0)2 540 5967, montblanc.com
2. Hermès watch, 22,910,000 KRW, Hermès, 7 Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06021, +82 (0)2 542 6622, hermes.com
4. Salvatore Ferragamo briefcase, 1,750,000 KRW, Salvatore Ferragamo, 433 Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06010, +82 (0)2 2140 9666, ferragamo.com
globalblue.com
5. Boss boots, 650,000 KRW, Boss, 466 Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06015, +82 (0)2 515 4088, hugoboss.com
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SHOP WINDOW
MIU MIU MOVES IN No one walking along Apgujeong-ro, one of Seoul’s most prestigious shopping streets, could fail to notice the striking exterior of Miu Miu’s new store, with its perforated metal curtain. The interior is just as impressive, with lavish use of sky-blue damask – a nod to the signature gold damask found in other Miu Miu stores – a black marble staircase and floor-to-ceiling mirrors. It provides a suitably stylish setting for the brand’s accessories, bags, footwear and ready-to-wear collections. km Save up to 8% by shopping tax free, see page 44
凡是经过首尔Apgujeong-ro购物街区的人都无法不 注意到Miu Miu金属帘幕的新店外观。覆盖460平 方米的两层店内装饰同样惊艳,且更加奢华:装饰采 用了天蓝色缎面——与Miu Miu其他店铺的标志性 金色缎面装饰相吻合——还有黑色大理石阶梯和落 地镜面,为这个意大利品牌精致的配饰、手包、鞋履 和成衣系列营造了应景的时尚氛围。
Miu Miu, 439 Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06010, +82 (0)2 541 7443, miumiu.com
FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 41
S H O P | 27
Luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega has unveiled its newly redesigned flagship store in Seoul’s Cheongdam area. Featuring a striking wavepatterned façade, the store has five floors, including two dedicated to the brand’s iconic watches and jewellery, and a VIP lounge on the top storey for the most discerning of customers. Established in 1848, Omega prides itself on having created timepieces that were part of key historical moments, from diving feats to the first moon landings. rp 奢华瑞士腕表制造商欧米茄 (Omega)在首尔清潭洞揭幕了 它新改装的旗舰店。壮观的波形 外立面建筑拥有五层楼空间供顾 客畅所欲购,其中开辟出两层楼 专售品牌标志性的珠宝腕表,顶 楼还有专为尊贵顾客设置的VIP 贵宾廊空间。从深海潜水到人类 首次登月,始于1848年的欧米茄 腕表见证了历史诸多重大时刻。
Omega, 457 Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06011, +82 (0)2 511 5797, omegawatches.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 41
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PHOTO: © KYUNGSUB SHIN
WATCH THIS SPACE
GLOWING BEAUTY Sulwhasoo’s new flagship store, which opened in spring, was developed by revered architect duo Neri & Hu. The design is based on the idea of a lantern, which lights the way to beauty. This concept is expressed using brass elements, whose golden sheen brings unity to both the exterior and interior. The store has six floors, where visitors can browse Sulwhasoo’s range of holistic products and make the most of the two spas, beauty advice sessions, gift-wrapping service, VIP lounge and rooftop area. gc 春季开业的雪花秀(Sulwhasoo)全新旗舰店由备受瞩目的建筑师 二人组Neri & Hu设计而成。设计灵感来自传统灯笼,象征通往美丽之 路。此概念通过黄铜装饰实现,通透的金色光泽照亮店内外空间。店内 共有六层楼,来访者可体验Sulwhasoo的明星产品并享用两处spa、专 业美容教程、礼物包装服务、VIP贵宾廊和屋顶休闲空间。
Sulwhasoo, 18 Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06021, +82 (0)2 541 9270, sulwhasoo.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 41
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NOW OPEN
DREAM TEAM
Fashion label Sacai has recently opened its first flagship in Seoul, in the Gangnam district. Founded by Japanese designer Chitose Abe, Sacai is known for its experimental yet elegant aesthetic. Like the label, the new store is unconventional yet sophisticated, formed from two boxes, one of glass and one of steel. The interior juxtaposes unexpected elements, providing the perfect backdrop for Abe’s unique designs. hl 日本时尚品牌Sacai近期在首
This autumn, quintessentially British brand Dr Martens has teamed up with Japanese menswear label Nanamica to create a capsule collection comprising two timeless models: a classic penny loafer (270,573.42 KRW) and the military-style Sultan shoe (247,605.99 KRW), both featuring premium Temperley soft leather and Dr Martens’ trademark air-cushioned sole. km 英伦品牌Dr Martens今秋携手日本男装品牌Nanamica创作全新 胶囊系列,包含两款时尚实用鞋:经典乐福鞋(270,573.42 韩元)和军 装风格Sultan鞋 (247,605.99 韩元)。它们均采用Temperley高档柔软 真皮和Dr Martens标志性的气垫鞋底。 Dr Martens, 135 Daehak-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul 03078, +82 (0)2 744 1716, drmartens.com
尔奢华的江南区开业了它的首家 旗舰店。创始人Chitose Abe革新 设计出的Sacai式优雅闻名世界。 体现品牌风格的新店前卫精致, 由玻璃和金属材质的两片方形空 间构成。内饰空间由日本艺术机 构Gelchop操刀完成,组拼奇异 的设计元素营造出和谐的氛围, 为Abe的独特设计产品打造完美 空间。
Sacai, 26 Apgujeong-ro 60-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06014, +82 (0)2 541 7510, sacai.jp FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 41
Save up to 8% by shopping tax free, see page 44
S H O P | 29
SCENTS OF STYLE Fornasetti Profumi has launched a new candle design, L’Eclaireuse. The arresting black and gold decoration of the ceramic vessel shows the founder’s enigmatic muse, Lina Cavalieri, as a princess on one side and a pirate on the other. The candle itself features a new scent, Mistero. Its warm, fragrant aromas of wood and spices are a fitting homage to the complex character of Cavalieri. gc Fornasetti Profumi发布了新 款蜡烛 L’Eclaireuse。陶瓷器皿 上迷人的黑与金的配色来源于品 牌创始人神秘的灵感缪斯Lina Cavalieri,传说她既是公主也是 海盗。蜡烛自带香氛取名 Mistero。这款蜡烛富含温暖的原 木和香料香氛,粉椒和柏树的前 调被劳丹脂,桂花,熏香的中调以 及雪松,檀香,麝香的后调中和。
10 Corso Como, 416 Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06015, +82 (0)2 3018 1010, fornasetti.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 41
NEW-LOOK CARTIER June saw the reopening of Cartier’s Cheongdam boutique, which first opened its doors in 2008. Here you can peruse the brand’s luxury offering of jewellery, watches, objets and accessories across three floors, which are separated into salons, in addition to a basement area. There is also an on-site workshop, providing special care and after-sales services. gc 卡地亚(Cartier)始于2008年的清潭洞精品店今年六月重新开张。 三层楼内沙龙区和地下购物空间出售珠宝、腕表、小件和配饰,工作间 还提供商品护理和售后服务。新装修融入韩国元素,充满魅力,装饰有 古典艺术的手绘墙纸和绚丽夺目的吊灯。
Cartier, 435 Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06010, +82 (0)2 518 0748, cartier.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 41
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PHOTOS: COURTESY OF SEOUL FASHION WEEK
STEP IT UP Seoul Fashion Week is aiming to be one of the world’s most influential of its kind, and the signs from this season’s shows are encouraging, says Claire Gervat
首尔时装周立志成为全世界最具影响力的时尚盛 会,本季度的时装周势头强劲、大放异彩,Claire Gervat 为您带来报道
N
ew York, Paris, London, Milan … and Seoul? In the battle for the coveted fifth place in the international league of fashion weeks, the organisers of the biannual Korean version definitely believe it’s possible. They have certainly been making the right moves, starting with the appointment as executive director last year of Ku-ho Jung, the former creative director of Samsung’s fashion division. Under his leadership, the spring/summer 2016 event had a new focus, a higher international profile and a growing sense of its own distinct identity. And that continued at the rebranded autumn/ 46
纽
约、巴黎、伦敦、米兰……以及首尔?国 际第五大时尚周的殊荣花落谁家,一年 两度的首尔时装周主办方认为他们有绝 对的实力。近来他们妙招频出,去年将三星设计部门 前任创意总监Ku-ho Jung任命为时装周的执行总 监。在他的带领下,2016春夏时装周呈现出全新面 貌,在国际舞台上崭露头角,并逐渐树立起自身特 色。重新冠名的2016/17秋冬赫拉首尔时装周延续 了强劲势头,为期五天的盛会为世界各地的时尚人 士奉上诸多看点。 每个顶级时装周都拥有至少一处惊艳四座的举 办场所,而东大门设计广场(Dongdaemun Design Plaza,简称DDP)正是首尔的不二之选。广场由 Opposite (clockwise from top left): SJYP; Heich Es Heich; Pushbutton; Moohong, all autumn/winter 2016/17
PHOTO: EUGENE LIM CC BY 2.0
32 | F E AT U R E S
winter 2016/17 Hera Seoul Fashion Week, whose five-day run provided plenty of interest for style watchers everywhere. Every top-level fashion week needs at least one knockout venue, and Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) unquestionably fits the bill. Designed by architect Zaha Hadid and opened in 2014, its flowing neofuturist looks – like a spaceship from a 1950s comic book – had already attracted the attention of designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, who chose it as the location for the Chanel Cruise collection 2015/16 show. For autumn/winter 2016/17, this striking building was joined by another: a vast former flour mill complex in Mullae-dong, a 40-minute shuttlebus ride away. It provided a memorable setting for Generation Next, originally intended as a platform for young designers, but relaunched for the new season as a trade show: a quiet space for buyers, press and labels to get together. The main event, though, was definitely at DDP, where the attendees included more than 1,000 national and foreign journalists, and 200 buyers. Just to get into the building, they had to battle through cohorts of street-style
The event showcased fashion that owed nothing to couture and almost everything to streetwear 建筑大师Zaha Hadid设计,2014年对外开放,其外 形宛如一艘上世纪五十年代漫画书中的天外飞船, 流线型的新未来主义风格曾吸引Karl Lagerfeld在 此举办2015/16香奈儿Cruise Collection时装秀。 在这座建筑奇作之外,2016/17秋冬首尔时装周还开 辟了一个新的分会场:一座前身为面粉厂的建筑,位 于文来洞(Mullae-dong),乘坐摆渡车40分钟即 可到达。 “Generation Next”作品展就在这个引人 注目的建筑中举行,该活动的前身为新锐设计师提 供展示的平台,在这个季度摇身一变,成为时装展销 会,闹中取静的面粉厂吸引了众多买手、记者和品牌 齐聚一堂。 时装周的主要活动还是在DDP举行,这里汇集
Above: Dongdaemun Design Plaza, the striking main venue for Hera Seoul Fashion Week
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF SEOUL FASHION WEEK
S H O P | 33
photographers and dressed-to-the-nines young Koreans eager to see their favourite K-pop stars and celebrity local models. Inside, the buzz was only a little quieter, with a packed schedule showcasing an approach to fashion that owed nothing to couture and almost everything to streetwear. The high-paced shows featured energetic soundtracks, girl bands in the front row, and even selfie-snapping models on hoverboards. As for the clothes, youthdriven, wearable looks prevailed, with a host of individual items perfect for adding an injection of fun to any wardrobe. At menswear label Heich Es Heich, the standouts – apart from the aforementioned hoverboarding models – included tinfoil windbreakers in pastel colours and colourful crushed-velvet suits, destined to be worn by nearly as many women as men. There was more boho gender blurring at Blindness, where the look was dandified, but with a punk edge. Covetable pieces included voluminous subtly patterned coats, cleverly cut biker jackets scrawled with graffiti and sharp leather trousers teamed, unexpectedly, with pussy-bow shirts,
了1000多名国内外记者和200多名买手。想进入主 会场就得先拨开人群,穿过一群群街拍摄像师,以及 打扮光鲜、翘首等待韩国明星和模特的年轻人。会 场内部略微清静,丰富的活动日程以展示街头时装 为主,完全不见高级时装的踪影。安排紧凑的秀场上 播放着动感的背景音乐,女子组合坐在前排,甚至还 有模特踩着滑板车自拍。本次时装秀主打青春靓 丽、实穿性强的服装,更有一系列明星单品,为每一 家衣柜增添一份乐趣。 除了之前提到的脚蹬滑板车的模特,男装品牌 Heich Es Heich推出的淡彩锡箔防风夹克以及五彩 缤纷的拷花丝绒西装也惊艳全场,势必将吸引相当 数量的女性以及男性购买者。而Blindness则将性别 模糊进行到底,在颇具纨绔子弟的风格中融入些许 朋克风。炙手可热的明星单品包括图案精致的宽松 大衣以及剪裁精妙的骑行夹克,还有紧身皮裤出人 意料地与带蝴蝶结的衬衫搭配,有柔和淡彩、中性 色系和黑色可供选择。 在首尔时装周备受青睐的Pushbutton继续以宽 松的廓形、怪诞的细节和轻松的中性风格为2016/17 秋冬秀场的街头时装增添浪漫气息和高品味。这一 次,运动衫和机车夹克并没有亮相,男女模特身着超 大尺码的针织衫,上面印有韩国插画师Nanan创作 的引人注目的动画图案,还有松垮的提花或印花毛皮 大衣、宽松绉边或单露肩白色丝绸衬衫。
Above (from left): a selfie-snapping model on a hoverboard at Heich Es Heich; Blindness, both autumn/winter 2016/17
in a muted palette of pastels, neutrals and black. Pushbutton – a Seoul Fashion Week favourite – put a romantic, high-end spin on the streetwear aesthetic for autumn/winter 2016/17, while continuing the oversized silhouettes, quirky details and gender-bending playfulness seen elsewhere. Instead of sweatshirts and biker jackets, the male and female models wore supersized knitwear decorated with eyecatching anime prints by Korean illustrator Nanan, slouchy jacquard or patterned furry coats, and voluminous frilled or off-oneshoulder white silk shirts. Showing for the first time at the main event after three outings at Generation Next, R Shemiste offered more food for thought with a collection inspired by a 20th-century female anarchist. That translated into slashed, distressed wide-leg jeans, off-theshoulder satin bomber jackets – known as sukajans – and tassels on everything from cropped tops to oversized denim jackets with a 90s grunge appeal. There was more for fans of all things denim at SJYP, the breezy diffusion line of Steve J & Yoni P. The relaxed looks included colour-block shirts and mini pinafores, huge unisex double-breasted jackets bearing the slogan ‘Every Weekend Above (from top): members of girl band Apink were among the many K-pop stars in attendance at Seoul Fashion Week; R Shemiste autumn/winter 2016/17
PHOTO: COURTESY OF SEOUL FASHION WEEK
PHOTO: NAMELESS USERS CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
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PHOTOS: COURTESY OF SEOUL FASHION WEEK
S H O P | 35
Blue Everyday’, and simple overalls, along with cleverly cut, perfect-for-anyone basics such as wide-legged jeans. The mood at Moohong was more sombre and conceptual, a far cry from the shine and colour of other shows. Designer Moo-hong Kim is one of the stars of the Korean fashion scene due to his uncompromising, avant-garde approach. For winter, this was seen in pieces such as asymmetric folded black jackets, in versions for men and women, draped and rough-hemmed hoodies, and loose-fitting long tops worn over baggy trousers. There was an altogether different look at womenswear specialist Nohke, one of Korea’s more established labels, which has become known for sharp cutting, exquisite tailoring and elegant draping. This season’s collection was no exception, with refined asymmetric dresses, corset belts, wide, soft trousers and shoulderbaring knitwear – all certain to top many women’s new-season wishlists. The inventiveness, wit and ever-growing diversity of the clothing on offer at the autumn/ winter 2016/17 shows is an encouraging sign for the future of Korean fashion. There may be a lot of competition for that coveted fifth spot – but Seoul is making a strong case to claim it Above (from left): SJYP; Nohke; Moohong, all autumn/winter 2016/17
三次做客“Generation Next”作品展之后,R Shemiste第一次来到时装周主会场做时尚发布,系 列作品以20世纪的女性无政府主义者为灵感,引发 无限遐想。该品牌推出了开叉做旧阔腿牛仔裤、单露 肩绸缎短夹克(即横须贺夹克)、露脐上衣和九十年 代垃圾文化的大尺码丹宁夹克,每款均饰有流苏。 喜欢丹宁的朋友们不要错过Steve J & Yoni P旗下 活泼轻快的SJYP子品牌。休闲造型包括色块衬衫、 迷你围裙、印有“Every Weekend Blue Everyday( 每到周末就郁闷)”的大号中性双排扣夹克和简洁 的工装裤,还有阔腿牛仔裤等剪裁巧妙的人手必备 单品。 Moohong的风格比较阴郁而抽象,与其他秀 场的欢快氛围和灿烂色彩形成鲜明对比。Moo hong Kim是韩国时尚界炙手可热的明星设计师, 秉持一丝不苟的先锋派作风。他的设计风格可以从 本季度的作品中可见一斑:非对称折叠的黑色夹克 (分男款和女款)、垂褶毛边连帽卫衣、宽松长上衣 搭配袋形裤。 专业女装品牌Nohke也呈现出与众不同的一 面。Nohke在韩国立足已久,以精剪细裁和优雅的 垂褶而闻名。这个季度依旧惊喜满满,推出高雅的非 对称连衣裙、束身腰带、宽松柔软的长裤及露肩针织 衫,一定已经被许多女性列入新季度的购物清单。 2016/17秋冬时装周上涌现出的创意、智慧和多 元性预示着韩国时装业的前途不可估量。即使有许 多对手在觊觎第五大时装周的名号,首尔仍以优异的 表现宣告着自己的非凡实力
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GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Seoul with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from gourmet ice cream parlours to cutting-edge luggage stores. Start with our recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. 环球蓝联城市指南带您去首尔的热门景点,让您此行尽情尽兴。无论是出 售美味冰淇淋的小店,还是时尚前卫的行李箱专卖店,从这些推荐商店开始, 与我们资深的旅行专家团队一同开启探索。
SHOP, the world’s leading travel and shopping guide, wants to learn more about you, our readers. To tell us more about yourself, and have the chance to win an iPad Pro, visit globalblue.com/shopsurvey, or scan the QR code. SHOP,世界顶级的旅行和购物指南,想要了解更多关 于读者的故事。向我们介绍您自己,并获得赢取一台 iPad Pro的机会, 详情请浏览 globalblue.com/shopsurvey, 或扫描右边的二维码。 Above: a view of Seoul lit up at night against the backdrop of Namsam Mountain, topped by the Seoul Tower
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PHOTO: KOREA TOURISM ORGANISATION
A Glimpse of Seoul 首尔一瞥
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Yonsei-ro & Sinchon-ro q
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行者的首选,其最新的创意产品电子行李牌 (Electronic Tag)定将为商旅人士提供便捷。 在指定的Rimowa行李箱之上,电子行李牌使 用数码科技替代了传统的纸质行李牌,从而使 得手机办理登记手续成为可能。它的第一家合 作航空公司是德国汉莎航空公司,敬请关注此 服务即将扩展到其他国际航空公司。
Rimowa, 78 Namdaemun-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul 04534, +82 (0)2 6361 8320, rimowa.com
● GS WATSONS
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SELECTED STORES IN HYUNDAI DEPARTMENT STORE SINCHON: 8 Seconds Bean Pole Burberry Golden Dew Prada Salvatore Ferragamo
Rimowa’s sleek, futuristic luggage is an obvious choice for savvy travellers and its latest innovation, the Electronic Tag, promises to make life even easier for the frequent flyer. Integrated into select Rimowa suitcase models, it uses digital technology to replace the traditional paper tag, making it possible to check in baggage via a smartphone. Its first airline partner is Lufthansa, but look out for the imminent expansion of the service to other global airlines. Rimowa时尚的未来主义行李箱是前卫旅
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SELECTED STORES IN GALLERIA (EAST): Cartier Hermès Jaeger-LeCoultre Montblanc Patek Philippe Piaget Tom Ford Vacheron Constantin Van Cleef & Arpels
● CAROLINA HERRERA ● NESPRESSO DOLCE & ● OMEGA P.27 GABBANA ● ● MICHAEL KORS LOUIS VUITTON ● GIORGIO ARMANI ● ● ST DUPONT GUCCI ● ISABEL MARANT ● DIOR ● BOSS ● ● BROOKS BROTHERS BURBERRY ●
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HUGO BOSS In its latest Boss womenswear collection, Hugo Boss has looked to architectural details and adapted them to follow feminine form and lines. Dresses, trouser suits and knitwear are rendered in an earthy colour palette of green, brown and beige, combined with vibrant touches such as mustard yellow. The new Boss Bespoke bag combines felt wool and stripes for an elegant final touch to your outfit. This collection highlights the label’s expertise in creating luxury fashion and has been led by its artistic director Jason Wu. 在最新的Boss女装系列当中,Hugo Boss看向 建筑设计细节并将他们融入到女性化廓形与线条 当中。连衣裙、西装裤和针织衫被赋予绿色、棕色 和米色等大地色调,并结合了活泼的明黄色作为点 缀。全新的Boss Bespoke手袋混搭了毡布羊毛和 条纹设计为您的造型增添优雅韵味。这个系列突 出了品牌在艺术总监Jason Wu引领下的奢华时尚 专业制造水平。
globalblue.com
Boss, 466 Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06015, +82 (0)2 515 4088, hugoboss.com
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Global Blue Retailer
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SELECTED STORES IN LOTTE DEPARTMENT STORE MAIN:
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Jigott Mcginn Mishaa Mojosphine O2nd Obzee On&On Satin Sjsj
SELECTED STORES IN HYUNDAI OUTLET GASAN: 8 Seconds Adidas Bean Pole Benetton Jil Stuart Kose Kuho Lap MLB Nike Reebok Tandy The Saem Tommy Hilfiger Top Girl Vanessa Bruno Skin Food System The Face Shop Time VOV Ziozia Zooc
such as candy floss and real honeycomb are also organic. Milk Cow的冰淇淋由有机牛奶制成,风味绝伦。 与其搭配的棉花糖和蜂巢蜜同样天然。 Milk Cow, 15 Gangnam-daero 102-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 06123, +82 (0)2 508 3152, milkcow.kr Swit B Swit B is known for distinctive flavours such as cereal and whisky, as well as its charming animal-shaped ice cream arrangements. Swit B以其特色的冰淇淋口味闻名,如燕麦和威 士忌口味,同时它们可爱的动物形状造型独特。 Swit B, 2-1 Hoenamu-ro 32-gil, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 04346, +82 (0)2 792 0749
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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop
2. Claim
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.
Spend a minimum of 30,000 KRW and save up to 8% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
Refund Office Details: Incheon Airport: 4th floor, Departures, airside manned counter Seoul Gimpo Airport: 3rd floor, Departures, airside Jeju Airport: 3rd floor, Departures, airside Busan Gimhae Airport: 2nd floor, Departures, airside
Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111
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畅购全球,尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的30多万家商店消费时,环球蓝联(Global Blue)购 物退税服务(Tax Free Shopping)为您节省购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联(Global Blue)获得购物退税,您怎 能错过?您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联(Global Blue)服务,然后遵循我们简单的退税过程:
1. 消费购物
2. 申请退税
无论您在哪里消费,请索要环球蓝 联退税表格(Global Blue Tax Free Form),并记得保存发票。
当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发 城市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税 表格上盖章,然后再到环球蓝联的 退税点领取您的退税款。
最低消费30,000韩元即可节省高达购买价格8% 的税。请注意:最终退款将包含增值税总额, 但是要扣除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税 申请表为单位收取现金退税手续费。
退税点详情: 仁川国际机场:4层,出发厅,空侧,靠近人 工服务台 金浦国际机场:3层,出发厅,空侧 济州岛国际机场:3层,出发厅,空侧 釜山国际机场:2层,出发厅,空侧
联系我们 taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111
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PHOTO: EUGENE LIM CC BY 2.0
TRANSLATIONS
日本語 30: Step It Up 注目度が上がるソウルファッション ソウル・ファッションウィークは、世界有数の影響力 を持つファッションイベントになることを目指してい る。今シーズンのショーを見れば、それも夢ではなさ そうだ。クレア・ジェヴァットがレポートする。 ニューヨーク、パリ、ロンドン、ミラノ。ソウルがそれ に続くか…?ファッションイベント界では「世界第5 のファッションウィーク」の地位をめぐる闘いが繰り 広げられているが、2年に1度開かれる韓国版ファッ ションウィークの主催者は間違いなく勝算があると 考えている。確かに、サムスンのファッション部門で クリエイティブディレクターを務めたチョン・グホを 昨年からエグゼクティブディレクターに起用するな ど、動きは抜け目ない。チョン・グホのリーダーシッ プの下に開催された2016 年春夏のイベントは、新た に狙いを定め、国際的注目度を上げると同時に、ソ ウルならではのアイデンティティが築かれつつあるこ とを強く印象づけた。 「ヘラソウル・ファッションウィ ーク」と改名し5日間にわたって開かれた2016/17年 秋冬のイベントも引き続き好評で、世界中のスタイ ルウォッチャーが大いに関心を寄せた。 トップレベルのファッションウィークには少なく とも一つは度肝を抜く会場が必要だが、東大門デザ インプラザ( DDP)はまさにそれにぴったりだ。建 築家ザハ・ハディドが設計し2014 年にオープンした globalblue.com
この建物は新未来派的なルックスで、まるで1950年 代のコミックブックに出てくる宇宙船のよう。それま でにもカール・ラガーフェルドがシャネルの2015/16 年クルーズ・コレクションのショー会場に選ぶなど、 デザイナーの注目を集めている。2016/17年秋冬の シーズンはこの壮観なDDPに加えて、シャトルバス で40 分の立地にある広大な複合施設、文來洞(ム ンレドン)も会場となった。かつて製粉所だったこの 施設は、 「ジェネレーションネクスト」の素晴らしい 舞台となった。ジェネレーションネクストは、もともと は若手デザイナーの登竜門を意図したショーだった が、今シーズンから見本市として再スタート。バイヤ ーや報道陣、レーベルが集う静かなスペースとなっ ている。 とはいえ、ファッションウィークのメインイベント はやはりDDPでのショーで、韓国内外から1000人 を超えるジャーナリストと200人を超えるバイヤーが 来場した。会場には、贔屓のKポップスターや自国 のセレブモデルを一目見ようと、ストリートスタイル のフォトグラファーやバッチリめかし込んだ韓国の 若者が大勢詰めかけ、建物内に入るだけでも大変 な騒ぎだった。中に入れば少しは静かとはいえ、シ ョーのスケジュールが目白押しで、クチュールではな く、ほぼ専らストリートウェアを旨とするファッション が披露された。次々に繰り広げられるショーは、エ ネルギッシュなサウンドトラックと前列に居並ぶガー ルバンドが特徴的で、ホバーボードに乗ってセルフィ ーを撮るモデルもあった。服は若者向きのウェアラ ブルなルックスが多く、どんなワードローブにも楽し さを加えるのにぴったりな個性的なアイテムもたくさ
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ん見受けられた。 メンズウェアレーベルのHeich Es Heich(エイ チ・エス・エイチ)で目立ったのは、 (前述のホバーボ ードに乗るモデルの他には)パステルカラーのティン フォイルを素材とするウィンドブレーカーやカラフル なクラッシュベルベットのスーツ。男女を問わず人気 が出そうなアイテムだ。Blindness(ブラインドネス) ではもっと奔放にメンズとウーマンズの境をぼやか し、ダンディ化したルックスにパンクの斬新さを加え ていた。人気になりそうな装いは、さりげない模様の 大ぶりのコートや、巧妙なカットに落書きしたような 柄が面白いバイカージャケット、シャープなレザーの ズボンにパステルやニュートラル、黒など抑えた色味 のリボン付きシャツという意外な取り合わせだ。 一方、ソウル・ファッションウィークの一番人気 Pushbutton(プッシュボタン)の2016/17年秋冬コ レクションは、ストリートウェアの美学にロマンチッ クな高級感を加えたもの。お馴染みのたっぷりとし たシルエットや風変わりなディテールも健在で、他 ブランドにも共通する性別を超える遊び心も見られ た。男女モデルの装いはスウェットシャツやバイカ ージャケットではなく、韓流イラストレーターのナナ ンによるアニメプリントがド派手な特大ニットウェア や、だらりとしたシルエットのジャカード織のコート、 模様が入った起毛素材のコート、ふんだんなフリル 使いやワンショルダーの白シルクシャツなど。 ジ ェ ネ レ ー シ ョ ン ネ ク スト 出 品 歴 3 回 の R Shemiste(アルスィミスト)は今回初めてメインイベ ントに登場し、20 世紀の女性アナキストにインスピ レーションを得たコレクションでまたまた話題を呼 んだ。スラッシュ(裂け目)を入れたダメージ加工の ワイドレッグジーンズや、オフショルダーで着るサテ ンのボマージャケット(いわゆる「スカジャン」)、ク ロップドトップから90 年代グランジ風の魅力溢れる 大ぶりのデニムジャケットまであらゆるものに付けた タッセルなどだ。デニムに目がない向きには、Steve J & Yoni P(スティーブジェイアンドヨニピー)の 気軽な普及版レーベル「SJYP」。カラーブロックの シャツやミニ・ピナフォー、 「Every Weekend Blue Everyday」のスローガンが書かれたユニセックスの 特大ダブルジャケット、シンプルなオーバーオール、 巧みなカットで誰にでもフィットするワイドレッグジ ーンズなどの定番アイテムといったリラックスした装 いを提供している。 一方、Moohong(ムホン)は厳粛かつコンセプ チュアル。きらびやかでカラフルな他のショーとは全 く違う雰囲気だった。デザイナーのキム・ムホンは妥 協のないアヴァンギャルドなアプローチで知られる 韓流ファッションの新星で、この冬はその姿勢がア シンメトリーなヒダ入り黒ジャケット(男性用と女性
用)、裾線がラフなだらりとしたフーディ、バギーなズ ボンの上に着るゆったりフィットのロングトップとい った作品に見て取れた。 それとは全く表情の異なる作品を披露したの が、ウーマンズウェアのスペシャリストNohke(ノケ) 。韓国の有名レーベルの一つで、シャープなカットと 巧みなテーラーリング、エレガントなドレープで知ら れる。今シーズンのコレクションも例外ではない。洗 練されたアシンメトリーなドレス、コルセットベルト、 ソフトな幅広ズボン、肩を出したニットウェアなど、ど の作品も多くの女性の「新シーズンの欲しいものリス ト」に載るに違いない。 2016/17年秋冬ショーで披露された服は創造性 とウィットに富み、多様性も一層の広がりを見せてお り、韓流ファッションの将来は明るそうだ。 「第5のフ ァッションウィーク」の地位争いは熾烈かもしれない が、ソウルが獲得する可能性は大いにある。
44: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利 用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街 にある30万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得 になります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。 手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ ブルー?」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップ を踏むだけです。
1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免 税書類(タックスフリー・フォーム)を受け取ってくだ さい。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに。 2. 還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認 印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付 事務所で払い戻しを受けます。 300,000 KRW以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価 格の最高8%の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な 払い戻し額は、付加価値税( VAT)合計から事務 手数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご 了承ください。 一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻 しをご希望の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書類 ごとに課されます。
48 | P RO D U C T S
SOUVENIR
BRIGHT THINKING Heohwan Simulation’s eyecatching dress is a triumph of vivid colours and contrasting prints, with feminine detailing in the form of ruffles at the neckline and pockets adding another quirky touch. It’s one of the intriguing pieces from the brand’s autumn/winter 2016/17 collection, which is inspired by the cultural clashes between western and eastern Europe in the 1980s. Designer Hwan Heo launched his eponymous brand in 2010 and made his London Fashion Week debut two years later. dw Save up to 8% by shopping tax free, see page 42
Heohwan Simulation设计的抢眼连衣裙大幅度使 用明亮的原色系和图案对比,领口和口袋之处柔美 的花边细节更显个性。它是品牌2016/17秋冬系列 最撩人的款式之一,灵感来源于1980年代东西欧文 化冲击。设计师Hwan Heo于2010年发布了他的同 名品牌,并在两年后在伦敦时装周发布首秀,本季为 品牌第十个系列。 Heohwan Simulation dress, 771,009 KRW, Shinsegae, 176 Sinbanpo-ro, Seocho-gu, Seoul 06546, +82 (0)2 2026 9000, heohwansimulation.com