Global Garbs - A Sustainable Fashion Magazine by Global Garbs

global garbs A SUSTAINABLE FASHION MAGAZINE Issue 1 | November 2020

AN INTRODUCTION TO

SUSTAINABLE FASHION WHAT IS SUSTAINABLE BEAUTY?

STARTING A BRAND? Learn from our expert helping small brands create ethically made products and hear from the brands actually doing it.

Inside global garbs 05

Introduction + Editor's Letter A NEW type of fashion magazine...

Building a Brand during COVID-19 with Sonderlier & LIYA

Empowering at Risk Youth An ethical jewelry entrepreneur's journey with Kind Karma

What is Sustainable Fashion? A brief introduction

Eco-friendly Sleep We all need this mattress | Sponsored by ECOSLEEP

Connecting Brands to Ethical Factories An interview with Jessica Kelly of Thr3efold

What Makes a Factory Ethical? by Jessica Kelly

Meet the Designers: Sarep & Rose, PRISM, Cee Cee's Closet

Fall Essentials

What is Sustainable Beauty? by Lin Chen of Pink Moon

A Beginners Guide to Veganism by Kelci DeFrancesco of Positive Plate

Introducing

global garbs - a Sustainable Fashion Magazine

If you’ve been following Global Garbs the

Fashion and beauty is something that

blog, you know that it’s evolved over time

touches every woman and it can

from a generic trend-focused blog to

oftentimes be the starting point into

highlighting emerging designers and

environmentalism.

brands in the sustainable fashion industry. You can read more about this

Once you begin to understand where your

journey here.

clothing is made, and how it’s made, you can easily go down the rabbit hole of

The goal now with Global Garbs the

learning more about every industry and its

Magazine is simply to expand beyond the

impact on people and the planet. This is

blog. In a perfect world, we could pick up

the goal of Global Garbs.

a magazine with curated products from small businesses produced ethically and

Our mission is to both inspire and educate

made sustainably, but that’s just not the

while also helping you get curious about

case. In fact, there aren’t many

SPONSORED BY

Special sponsors

Cover Photo by Photographer Model

KRNACH Kind Karma

Sarep + Rose @ronhill @queenfanta.c

laurentanaka@globalgarbs.com www.globalgarbs.com

NOV 2020 - ISSUE 1

I wanted to create a magazine that you can feel good about the brands and purchases you make...a publication to be inspired by that supports small (especially women-owned) ethical businesses.

Letter from the Editor If you had asked me ten years ago what

After transitioning from just a “regular”

sustainable fashion was, I probably would

fashion blog in 2017 to focusing more on

have answered somewhere along the

sustainability, I started to be inspired

lines of, “clothing made from hemp or

once again. I love supporting brands and

linen?” Or, “don’t people who wear

influencers who are truly trying to make

sustainable fashion wear khaki pants and

a change in this industry. I see these

birkenstocks?” Yes, this is a terrible

change-makers as leaders in our field and

stereotype. But if you remember, not too

while I know that a sustainable fashion

long ago we had this same stereotype

magazine isn’t necessarily going to

surrounding people who ate all organic

change the world, I know that the people I

foods, and had their own vegetable

am highlighting are. I also know that in

gardens. Now, I pretty much buy all

order to create real change we have to

organic and also aspire to have my own

first change our mindset and perspective.

vegetable garden (one day it will happen

We have to rethink entire systems, and

demand large companies do better. But we have to work together in order to

Having worked in the fashion industry

create this change. So thank you for

for over a decade, I had acknowledged

coming on this journey with me.

the waste and questionable labor standards with factories we had worked

Cheers to you and a more sustainable

with, but it wasn’t until Rana Plaza that

future!

something started to shift within me. Many of us who work in the fashion industry experience this when we realize how toxic both environmentally and humanly this industry can be. I knew that I (most likely) wouldn’t spend the rest of my career working in an industry that was so harmful for some of the

Lauren Tanaka - Fortune

world’s most vulnerable countries.

Global Garbs founder

Building a Brand During COVID-19 Starting a new business and building a brand is incredibly difficult let alone starting and building a brand during a global pandemic. In this issue’s small business spotlight, we are shining a light on two entrepreneurs both on new journeys that started right around when COVID happened. While one is in the midst of designing a collection, the other is focused on delivering her products to her customers. As first time business owners, both women have carved out a path of their own in the world of sustainability. Each of their experiences are unique on their own, but it’s always fascinating to see that while every journey is so different, we are all connected in this search for meaningful work that is making a difference.

It gave me the mindset and experience of innovation and directing my own work. Plus the skills that are central to an academic job, such as research, writing, applying for grants, teaching and collaborating with others, have translated very well in this journey of building Sonderlier. . My research also had a lot to do with

An Unexpected Journey AN INTERVIEW WITH XI CHEN OF SONDERLIER

sustainability, and my passion grew as I learned more. So choosing to do fashion in a sustainable way was a no brainer. I think my background also gives me a unique perspective when it comes to design as well. Sometimes I literally picture engineering a transformer when I design clothes, which is super fun How did you come up with Sonderlier? I’ve always dreamed of fashion design. So when I finally decided to pursue this dream, it all just came down to what type of

What is your background career-wise and

clothing I feel most connected to. I think as I

how did this lead to your current path?

got older, I became less willing to tolerate

The first chapter of my career has been in

look chic and put-together. Over the years,

academia, where I worked as a professor in

it’s a huge struggle for me to find clothes

industrial engineering. While there’s no

that are both exciting and comfortable to

doubt it’s a pretty big career transition,

wear. The more I thought about it and

working as a professor has surprisingly

talked to other women, the more I realized

prepared me for my new path in many

there’s a fundamental problem in how we

ways. I think an academic job is very much

create and consume fashion - we dress for

like entrepreneurship.

special occasions.

uncomfortable clothes, but I still want to

BUILDING A BRAND (DURING COVID-19)

(cont.) Special occasions so rare that we can bear putting on tight clothes and even an alternate persona. Meanwhile, day-to-day

They say it's all about the journey. How has your journey been thus far. Give us some insight - the good and the bad.

clothes are dull and just something to get us through the day. So by creating Sonderlier, I'm really trying to change this status quo. I want to design clothes that remind us that we are special even if it’s not a “special” occasion. Clothes to live in as our truest selves, clothes that inspire confidence and freedom. And of course, I also want them to be sustainable, because our planet is also so special! My dream is that putting on a Sonderlier piece is a starting point that radiates through our lives. I want it to be a statement and constant reminder that “I’m beautiful and special today and every day”. How does Sonderlier stand out compared to other sustainable brands?

I’ve learned a tremendous amount along this journey. I have had a lot of wins so far. From building my own website, to learning to manage social media (I used to be one of those people who never post on social), to writing my first newsletter, to developing my first prototypes, to my guest article getting accepted by Darling Magazine, to receiving emails from my subscribers gushing on how much they love my design. I’m so grateful and often have to pinch myself that all of this is actually happening. But I know I still have a long way to go. My biggest challenge has been and still is putting myself out there. I’m an introvert and have always been more of a listener than a talker. Even though I do realize that putting

I think what makes Sonderlier unique is our

my face, my thoughts and my designs out in

mission of beauty and wellbeing for the

public are the necessary steps of building

everyday. It’s in its core wellness and

Sonderlier, they aren’t something I’m used to

connection through fashion. All of our

and can be quite uncomfortable for me. I’m

designs are aimed at enabling women to feel

putting a conscious effort everyday to work

free to move and to be, and reducing the

through my anxiety.

stress of dressing. We are a sustainable brand, but we are more than that. We

In a way, I’m also growing as a person on this

combine classic and vintage inspired looks

journey, and that’s one of the things that

with modern lines and versatile details, and

really draws me to entrepreneurship.

then construct them into the most comfortable pieces. Think designer clothing

(cont.)

with loungewear comfort.

There’s a lot of new uncertainty due to the pandemic, and also a lot of anxiety about whether this is a good time to launch a fashion business. After a lot of debate, I decided I’m going to continue with the launch. Not only because Sonderlier is exactly meant for everyday, but also right now beauty and comfort are more important than ever. For me, I decided to treat the disruptions as challenges that will How have you been dealing with COVID-19 and how has this affected you and your business?

help me build a more robust business. And I’m actually feeling grateful for the longer runway for my launch.

COVID-19 has definitely affected my business considerably. When I founded Sonderlier in Fall 2019, I thought I would be able to launch in Spring 2020. Oh my, I

We always have to celebrate our wins - both big and small. What are you most proud of and why?

knew so little back then. My first samples

I would say what I’m most proud of is

were ready at the end of February 2020

making the decision to embark on this

and I traveled to LA for fitting in the

journey. It’s a huge transition into a world

beginning of March. Michigan didn’t have

that seemed largely unknown to me. The

a single case back then so being in LA was

decision definitely didn’t come overnight. It

quite a shock. I remember being in a textile

was super scary, and I could’ve easily talked

show in LA when LA declared a state of

myself out of it - and I have done a lot of

emergency, and I received a text message

that in the past. But I’m really glad that I

from my partner that I should get out

finally decided to take the leap and follow

immediately. But I didn’t listen to him and

what makes my heart sing.To me the best

still finished the fitting. And as soon as I

part of building Sonderlier is getting to

got back to Michigan, states started to go

know lots of entrepreneurial women who

into lockdown. As a result, my

are chasing their dreams and trying to make

development process was on a halt for over

a positive impact on the world. I get so

three months. Starting in June, things

much inspiration from their courage, their

finally slowly began to reopen, but barely

passion and their kindness. They are simply

back to normal. Because of the delays, I

amazing. And selfishly, I create all my

had to postpone the launch by a few

designs to serve them and encourage them

months to Spring 2021

because I just love them so much.

TAKE $20 OFF

I founded LIYA with the intention of creating minimalist, sustainably made accessories that honor the traditional skillsets of the region in which they're made, while providing safe, fair employment and supporting the local economy. I developed LIYA's first collection of classic

Timelessness Over Trends AN INTERVIEW WITH DEANNA COOK OF LIYA

silk scarves when I was living in Bangkok, working on an international development project, and I'm thrilled to have finally brought it to life.

How did you come up with LIYA? I didn’t grow up with much interest in the fashion industry, but I was always passionate about social good and the world at large. During the past several years, I also learned a lot about our impact on each other and on

What is your background career-wise and how did this lead to your current path?

I’m Deanna Cook, the founder of LIYA Collective. I'm originally from Toronto, Canada, but I've spent the better part of a decade working with schools, nonprofits, and sustainable businesses around the world—so far, I've lived in Spain, Taiwan, Tanzania, Thailand, and I’m currently in Costa Rica.

the planet, and have slowly been trying to shift to a more conscious lifestyle, which includes both how I shop and what I wear. Having mostly worked in the education and nonprofit sectors, I was interested in exploring how business could be used as a force to effect positive change. So with LIYA, I wanted to build a brand that creates minimalist, timeless accessories that are sustainably made in some of the international communities in which I've lived and worked.

BUILDING A BRAND (DURING COVID-19)

Why do you consider your brand sustainable?

All LIYA packaging materials are paperbased, and are 100% recycled, 100%

In creating LIYA, my goal was to build products, a supply chain, and overall, a brand, that is as sustainable and ethical as it is functional and wearable. The products are inspired by minimalist designs and simple silhouettes. The collection uses neutral colors and prioritizes timelessness over trends, making classic pieces that you can

recyclable, and 100% plastic-free. In the past, LIYA has run initiatives like planting a tree for every person to sign up to our newsletter, and I plan to continue campaigns and other giving programs like that in the future. LIYA is currently a member of the Female Founder Collective and aspires to one day become a certified B Corp.

wear for years and years to come. LIYA uses natural fibres and other materials that are made in sustainable ways. The first

They say it's all about the journey. How has your journey been thus far. Give us some insight - the good and the bad.

collection is made from 100% Thai mulberry silk. The black and champagne scarves are

LIYA’s first collection is made up of

screen printed with water-based inks, and

essentially one product in three different

the ivory scarf is a natural, un-dyed silk.

colorways, and as a scarf, it isn’t a complicated design. So the design process

The collection was also developed in

was obviously much easier than building out

partnership with a series of small, family-

a full apparel line in a range of sizes. The

owned businesses in Thailand, from the

most challenging part of the process though

farmers to the fiber factory to the mill and

was sourcing.

sew shop. Each business has been in the family for generations, and continuously

When I moved to Thailand in January 2019, I

strives to improve their practices and

made it my mission to learn all about

processes in order to operate as ethically

traditional Thai crafts, especially silk. I went

and sustainably as possible.

in knowing basically nothing about this ancient industry, so I definitely got a major

We're proud to offer carbon-neutral

crash course during the 6 months I lived

shipping on all LIYA orders, with

there. I met with countless weavers, factory

contributions funding the Jari Pará REDD+

managers, shop owners, and production

Avoided Unplanned Deforestation project in

heads to try and find the perfect (sustainable)

the Amazon Rainforest, a Verified Carbon

fabric. I visited outlets, retail stores, factories,

Standard project certified by Pachama.

showrooms, tradeshows, and farms. I scoured databases and the internet and reached out to bloggers and experts for advice.

Eventually, I found the partners that make

For the remainder of 2020, I’m focused

up our current supply chain. The silk

on producing and delivering our first

cocoons come from a network of

collection, and planning for future

approximately 4000 farmers spread across

seasons. I’d like to stay in the accessory

Thailand, and go to a family-owned fiber

space, but in addition to scarves, I would

factory in Phetchabun to be reeled into

love to explore hats, handbags, and other

yarn. The yarn then travels to another

small pieces, using different textiles and

family-owned business in Saraburi to be

materials from other parts of the world.

milled and screen printed, and then to the family’s sew shop in Bangkok to be hemmed and finished. Overall, sourcing is a long, difficult process, especially for someone who’s new to the industry. But the lessons I learned and the experience of

We always have to celebrate our wins both big and small. What are you most proud of and why?

meeting the partners and workers firsthand have made it all worth it.

At this point, I’m most proud of actually bringing this brand to life, instead of just

How have you been dealing with COVID-19 and how has this affected you and your business?

and research and planning. If I had a chance to do it again, I would have loved to have had a launch party, which couldn’t

As I previously mentioned, our launch was

happen due to social distancing

much smaller than anticipated due to the

requirements. But otherwise, I’m grateful

global pandemic, but I’m glad we decided

for all that I’ve experienced so far.

to go ahead with it anyway—although LIYA products are far from “essential,” our production partners have lost work during this season too, and every order helps keep small businesses and jobs alive.

being stuck in endless cycles of dreaming

How this Ethical 18 Jewelry Entrepreneur is Helping to Empower AtRisk Youth Today we had the pleasure to meet Laurinda Lee-Retter the founder of Kind Karma an ethical jewelry brand based out of Toronto. While there are many jewelry brands in the marketplace, Kind Karma stood out to us because their mission goes beyond ethical jewelry. They also work with their community and employ at-risk and homeless youth. Laurinda not only helps to develop their skills as a designer and jewelry artisan but takes it a step further by hosting jewelry-making workshops at shelters and volunteering at groups that help women who have been victims of gender-based violence heal. All participants get to keep their bracelets. As a child to immigrant parents, Lee was always the straight-A student, striving to achieve the ultimate goal of getting her college degree. However, in her third year at university, she suddenly was hit with severe clinical depression which derailed her from graduating. Her life and career started to turn out a little different than expected as she worked in retail and then administration working her way up the corporate ladder. It was then in 2017 that she had her epiphany to start her own company. As someone who always dreamed of becoming an entrepreneur, Laurinda had to take the plunge and forgo the conventional path for something she truly believed in. The rest as you say is history. And although Kind Karma is a fairly new company the jewelry designs have been featured in various Toronto publications and even Vanity Affair. Her designs are simple yet are very versatile in that they are designed to be worn in layers (a design element we love!) Read on to learn more about Laurinda’s journey and what makes Kind Karma unique.

Tell us a little bit about yourself and your background.

"I thought I would change that by offering an employment model that was based on art-therapy - and we have seen youth actually stay at Kind Karma longer than they have held any job in the past.."

I grew up in Toronto to immigrant parents who came to Canada to craft a better life. They were both extremely hardworking, resourceful and their mantra to me was always: “go to school, graduate with a degree, get a good job and then retire”. I was always a straight-A and honor roll student - but I couldn’t finish my degree. During my third year in university, I was suddenly hit with severe clinical depression and couldn’t continue my studies. I took short periods of time off to try and recover and although I tried to return to school several times, I couldn’t finish the last two courses I needed to complete the degree I had been told was the stepping stone to “a good job”. So, I worked in retail and from there, landed a job in administration which was my entry into the corporate worldunconventional path ;)

. I worked my way up to the Executive Assistant position, supporting CEO’s and Presidents of large companies but as I got older, I couldn’t ignore that this was a role I had almost fallen into as opposed to sought. Entrepreneurship was always my dream and I wanted to create something that made a difference so I took the plunge and started Kind Karma. And luckily, my parents still support my unconventional path ;)

How did Kind Karma begin? Kind Karma began as a result of my desire to make a difference in the world through art. Jewelry-making had always been a therapeutic hobby for me when I was younger and after working in front of computers in office settings for so long, I longed to get back to the more artistic side of work (I went to school for music, after all). I wanted to create a jewelry line that incorporated positive change so I thought about how I could do that; I remember reaching out to third-world countries to see if I could help but the lack of responses actually made me notice the people outside my front door. I sought out a former colleague who now worked with the homeless in her neighborhood by directing them to shelters and job centers and I remember her telling me that there were “already a lot of resources for youth - they just need to access them.” But it made me wonder: if these resources weren’t being utilized as much as they should be, could there is a discrepancy between the need and want? I remembered my time working in retail as I struggled with mental illness and healing from certain events and it was one of the most difficult things to do. It was, however, one of two options I had because of my schooling but the long hours, stressful environment and sometimes difficult customers were not necessarily beneficial for my health. These youth I wanted to work with were most likely going through similar, but magnified, experiences with even less education or skills - how could we ask that they be successful at work if they felt their employment was making them feel worse? I thought I would change that by offering an employment model that was based on arttherapy - and we have seen youth actually stay at Kind Karma longer than they have held any job in the past.

(cont.)

BUILDING A BRAND (DURING COVID-19) Did you have a major “ah-ha” moment when

It made me more clearly define my role in their

starting the business?

life and how best to empower them. I wasn’t

My major “ah-ha” moment was actually in the designing process! I currently design all Kind Karma pieces that are made by our youth artisans (to maintain consistency) and I had originally designed the pieces in layered necklaces. My epiphany

empowering them by just giving them things from my home - I needed to give them skills so they could get those things for themselves. That was how they would become sustainable and although it’s hard to sometimes say no to requests, I have to remember why I started and the long-term goal that helps their future.

moment happened when I decided to create simpler pieces and let customers put layers together on their own! That way, they have the choice to wear just one necklace or more and to create looks that they are most drawn to as opposed to being stuck with the combination of my personal style dictated. It’s been great and it has further added to our sustainability model by allowing our customers to create different looks without staple pieces without having to purchase more pieces just for a particular outfit. It has made our pieces so versatile and jewelry loved is less jewelry in the landfill!

What’s been your biggest accomplishment? The one moment that stands out to me the most came about six months into the Kind Karma’s existence. A pair of our earrings were part of a gift guide in a widely read magazine and at the time, I was still working as an Executive Assistant. My boss was the CEO of a large company and someone who I had supported and admired for several years as a result of his incredible business acumen, intelligence and success. He saw our piece in the gift guide and texted me

What’s been your greatest struggle thus far in your entrepreneurial journey? My greatest struggle has actually been about

a snapshot of the article simply asking “Is this you?” When I affirmed it was, he praised what I had started and the reach I was already getting (we were less than a year old).

setting boundaries. It is a natural instinct to want to help those in need and I have always

That reply from someone who I had held in high

been the person to give even the shirt off

esteem was one of the most incredible feelings. It

my back someone needs it. Working with at-

was early on in my entrepreneur journey so

risk and homeless youth, I saw need more

hearing it from someone who knew what he was

closely than ever before so I remember

talking about was a huge milestone for me. It

giving youth pots and pans and things from

stands out but now, I am still overjoyed whenever

my own home if they told me they needed

someone tells me in person or online to tell me

it. At one point, I was even the crisis line for

how much they love what we are doing - it means

youth to contact at all hours of the day (and

the world to hear that we have that support from

night) and it made me realize that I had

others and that what we do is valued.

blurred the line between employer and employee.

ADVICE + WORKING WITH AT RISK YOUTH If you could do it all over or give one piece of

In addition, I also volunteer by hosting

advice about starting an ethical brand what would it be?

jewelry-making workshops with shelters in

I think my advice would be to write down what you are firm about doing and not doing. As an ethical/sustainable brand, you become exposed to a lot of issues that may arise as you research your business and it is easy to feel like you need to address them all. It is also easy to find alternatives to doing business that may go against what you aim to achieve. So knowing what you are focused on and what you absolutely will not do is key to making sure you stay true to your business mission and the positive

Toronto - shelter residents get to come and make their own necklaces as a fun activity. The workshops are completely funded by Kind Karma and all participants get to keep the pieces they make. I also volunteer with a group that helps women who have been victims of gender-based violence heal and we make bracelets (which participants also get to keep).These workshops offer an additional opportunity to let youth know about the employment opportunities at Kind Karma and many will reach out after workshops to request interviews!

change you wish to create.

We love that you work with at-risk youth and feature them on your site. How did this come about and how did you build relationships with these organizations? We met our very first partner organization at the Kind Karma launch (we launched at the Buy Good Feel Good show) and told them about our new approach to employment. They were intrigued and immediately put us in touch with their employment services so I felt like I might be onto a good thing. We hired our first youth artisan shortly after and we were subsequently featured in a couple of publications in Toronto. That got the attention of other organizations who reached out to learn more about our company and mission; they subsequently added us to their list of employers as well so we now have connections with organizations in Toronto to help us hire marginalized youth.

Where are your products made and how do you go about sourcing materials? All of our products are handmade in Toronto. Our youth get together and make jewelry! They listen to music and I find that even if they come in on a bad day, jewelrymaking helps them relieve some of the anxiety and stress they may have started work with so they do feel better at the end of their shift. Sourcing materials was a struggle because as a brand that set out to be ethical and sustainable, it’s easy to feel like you have to address ALL the problems that you notice. There are so many issues (environment, labor, etc.) that it can become overwhelming trying to address them all. Therefore, when I started, it was important for me to know what my number one priority was and that was to help marginalized youth.

"We truly believe in the ripple effect so for us, it’s not always about the quantity of youth and having as many come in the doors as possible. We are dedicated to as much as we can logistically sustain to give them a real opportunity with dedicated mentorship. That one person, like one drop of water, can then create the ripples by helping many many more in their lives." So although I wanted to source from all the fairtrade mines and metalsmiths, that wasn’t feasible for Kind Karma. We currently source from manufacturers and wholesalers across the United States and abroad and although we don’t source only from certified fair trade organizations, we definitely do not source from companies that cause undue harm to the environment or persons. Does your company have a specific mission or life motto? Our company's mission is to break the cycle of poverty by enabling our future generation of leaders to reach their full potential so they can continue to pay

all photos courtesy of Kind Karma

kindness forward by helping those in need. It is very difficult to give when you have absolutely nothing so we try to help our youth by giving them something so they can give back. And it is so inspiring to see how big their hearts are.

What is sustainable fashion? by Lauren Tanaka-Fortune

What exactly is sustainable fashion? If you’re reading this magazine, you probably already know a thing or two about what sustainable fashion entails, but let’s dive deeper into some of the basics and why this is such an important topic. When you think of sustainable fashion, do you envision an older person wearing

It says:

hemp clothing and some Birkenstocks? This was pretty much the stereotypical

“Sustainable fashion is a movement and

view not so long ago. But ever since the

process of fostering change to fashion

late nineties and early 2000s or so there’s been a huge shift in sustainable fashion and the sustainable fashion movement especially among Millennials. But what exactly is sustainable fashion?

products and the fashion system towards greater ecological integrity and social justice. Sustainable fashion concerns more than just addressing fashion textiles or products. It comprises addressing the whole system of

This most frequently asked question can

fashion. This means dealing with

be summed in one word: a movement.

interdependent social, cultural, ecological,

Wikipedia actually has the best-simplified

and financial systems.[1] “

statement:

What’s important about this definition is it

With all of these facts, the future of

notes that sustainable fashion is an all-

sustainable fashion can at times look grim.

encompassing umbrella of topics not only

But the good news is that the movement

related to producing fashion garments with

and awareness is growing.

eco-friendly textiles but also addresses the social justice part which can also be

When Rana Plaza in Bangladesh collapsed

referred to as ethical fashion.

in 2013, and 1,134 people died, there was a lot of public attention surrounding the

The terms sustainable and ethical fashion

brands who produced at this factory

has been used so interchangeably and

(particularly fast fashion brands). With

rightfully so. To be truly sustainable you

terrible working conditions and lack of

cannot have one without the other. You

transparency, there has been an increase in

cannot make an organic cotton t-shirt, sell

the movement’s fight for labor rights and

it for $8, and pay your workers poverty

calling attention to those violating these

wages. That in of itself is not sustainable.

rights.

Whether a brand is calling themselves

One of the most prominent movements

sustainable or ethical, it’s important to note

that came from Rana Plaza is Fashion

that because the two are so intertwined in

Revolution; a non-profit organization that

environmentalism, we should always be

strives to educate and create change in the

looking for both factors when it ultimately

fashion industry. They value people and

comes to something being called

the planet over money and if you’ve ever

“sustainable”. However, with that said,

seen the hashtag #whomademyclothes -

sustainable fashion oftentimes referred to

they are the true originators and urge any

as eco-friendly fashion is more centered

brand showing a lack of transparency to

around how the clothing is designed or

show us exactly that: who made my clothes.

manufactured in environmentally friendly ways.

The ultimate goal of the sustainable fashion movement is to create change not only as

Most sustainable brands use natural fibers

consumers, but within the larger system

such as cotton, linen, hemp, wool, or

itself. The fashion industry can and should

synthetically made fibers such as viscose or

place environmental, social, and ethical

lyocell, etc. Although not perfect, these are

improvements as high priorities (as should

better choices than petroleum based

all industries).

synthetics like polyester, acrylic or nylon because they aren’t using toxic and non

Although there’s been large amounts of

biodegradable chemicals.

criticism surrounding sustainable fashion and the argument that no matter how eco-

The exciting part of technology and fiber

friendly a garment is, the industry itself is

creation is that it’s an ongoing and ever

based on profit and ultimately requires a

changing industry. There has been a

huge shift to the overall system.

constant evolution of natural materials such as pineapple to make leather, or even

This thought process isn’t a new

mushroom leather.

perspective, and has been around for several decades, however, sustainable fashion’s awareness, and movement seems

You cannot make an organic cotton t-shirt, sell it for $8, and pay your workers poverty wages. That in of itself is not sustainable.

to have grown immensely in the past decade alone to almost mainstream status.

While consumers should always take

With the rise of fast fashion and the

more conscious action and choose better

constant need for newness, Instagram

products, we should also educate

posts, or even Marie Kondo, it’s actually

ourselves about the larger picture in

not very surprising.

order to support organizations that are actually working on the issues to create

Overall we just have to do better.

change in the policies that would require

Companies both big and small must

the larger fashion companies to adhere

strive to do better.

to certain standards. Fashion revolution has a great list of free resources here.

Sustainable fashion is a movement that everyone can be involved in. Whether

As individuals interested in sustainable

it’s at the creator or consumer level,

fashion we can not only do our own part

understanding the importance of

such as buy secondhand, buy less, buy

shopping second-hand vs new, repairing

better, swap, or even rent, but we can

vs replacing, or buying quality vs

share our knowledge, and support small

quantity, there’s always something we

brands and change-makers doing their

can be doing.

part to create real progress. No one is ever going to be 100% Sustainable fashion may seem like a

sustainable. But the small changes add

small piece of the environmentalism

up. The awareness and knowledge adds

puzzle, but the clothing industry has

up.

huge impacts on the planet. From the high amount of water used, to the

Once we can collectively begin making

hazardous chemical treatments used in

changes and demand that larger

the dyeing process, to the large amounts

companies do better, we are on the road

of unsold clothing which are either

to creating a global transformation that

incinerated, sent to landfills, or shipped

can hopefully shift the industry to a

to poor countries.

whole new system for long term progress.

The amount of water used to produce one cotton t-shirt for example takes 714 gallons which is equivalent to doing 18 loads of laundry (at approximately 40 gallons per load). All that water just to produce ONE t-shirt! Let’s not even get started with denim (to be discussed at a later time). In addition to water usage, there are over 8,000 chemicals used in the whole process to actually create textiles with 25% of them being actual pesticides. And finally, there’s the issue of disposal. Did you know the average American throws

Sustainable fashion is a movement that everyone can be involved in. Whether it’s at the creator or consumer level, understanding the importance of shopping second-hand vs new, repairing vs replacing, or buying quality vs quantity, there’s always something we can be doing.

away 70lbs of clothing per year?!

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Overall this mattress hits all the marks in terms of

One major thing that I knew was bad about regular

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mattresses is that they aren’t regulated and

company has been around for 25 years, so they are

conventional mattresses contain what’s called volatile

definitely the mattress experts. You can also try the

organic compounds (VOCs) which can cause skin and

mattress out for 120-days and includes a 10-year

even respiratory problems. Walter Bader, author of

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Sleep is one of the most important parts of living a

He says that “mattresses are like cigarettes were in

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Connecting Brands to Ethical Factories AN INTERVIEW WITH JESSICA KELLEY OF THR3EFOLD

When you think about the fashion industry,

“I started to wonder what purpose my career

you can’t help but get swept into the glitz and

had. While I knew I loved fashion it didn’t

glamour of how it’s commonly viewed. New

feel super connected to doing good. It can be

York Fashion Week, fancy parties, and

very draining to feel like you’re just selling

beautiful designer clothing, can seem like a

expensive things to rich people” said Jessica.

dream atmosphere to work in and it’s most likely one of the reasons why so many are

It was around that time that an opportunity

drawn to the industry in the first place.

presented itself to go on a mission trip to Zimbabwe, which ultimately became a life

However, there’s a common thread among

changing moment for Jessica. While on the

many who spend more than a decade in this

trip and volunteering within the community

field. Many come to the realization that

to help wherever necessary she was blown

there’s a lot happening beyond the public eye

away by their joy and generosity juxtaposed

that isn’t good for people or the planet.

with the fact that employment opportunities were so scarce in their area. On the plane

This is a story that can probably resonate

home to NYC Jessica was convinced that she

with Jessica Kelly, the founder and CEO of

was going to do something to create

Thr3efold, an online platform that helps

sustainable employment around the world.

brands of all sizes access ethical factories. “I had this vague idea, but my background wasn’t in production, so I decided to go on a HER BACKGROUND AND AH-HA MOMENT

month long research and development trip to India. I didn’t know anyone when I

After a decade working in fashion PR for

booked my ticket, so I just started asking

some of the most prominent NYC firms

people if they knew anyone in India they

such as KCD which represent huge names

could connect me to. And somebody, who

such as Oscar De La Renta, Tory Burch, and

knew somebody, who knew somebody,

Tommy Hilfger, she found herself starting

connected me to a bunch of different people,

to wonder where her career path was

and I eventually had lots of meetings lined

headed.

up.

I was there to learn and access what goes on the manufacturing side of the industry and understand what their needs and concerns were. The factories that I met with on a small scale were employing women rescued out of sex trafficking, providing life skill classes, financial planing, or even housing. On a larger scale, I met with India’s largest exporter that works with Target, H&M, and Kohl’s. They have the leading labor standards in the industry. They have an onsite daycare, a cafeteria, and even machines that dye denim with one glass of water. I was there for three hours with my jaw on the ground. I was sitting in these incredible factories and they were all doing such great work but they all had one thing in common - which was they didn’t have good websites. So it was obvious that it would be impossible for a brand in the USA to be able to find them and work with them. It seemed really obvious to me that there needed to be a place where brands could search ethical factories around the world and set up their supply chain so it could affect people and the planet.” BUILDING THR3EFOLD So that’s exactly what she set out to do. She crowd funded her site in 2018 and built a platform that enables brands to search ethical factories around the world in which they can compare pricing, share project ideas, manage their production all in one place. Factories have a profile in which they can sign up and provide key information such as their ethical certifications, categories, minimum order quantities, and are also able to upload examples of their past work, the actual facility and even photos of their team. By using this platform you can easily compare each factory based on these types of factors such as pricing, project, category, etc. From there you can actually manage everything from within as a project management tool for sourcing.

In addition to providing introductions for small brands to larger factories, Thr3efold also helps each brand along their journey. Their twice a year coaching club cohort is a four-month accelerator program that assists in both the pre-launch, to scaling brands. They cover everything from production, marketing, wholesale, press, and even how to get funding. But most importantly they help navigate the sustainability know-how and supply chain which can be the most difficult part of creating a brand.

THOUGHTS ON... Sustainability for Small Brands “Sustainability is a massive sliding scale. What I tell small brands is that if (huge) brands like Eileen Fisher and Patagonia are still learning how to improve, you’ve got a long way to go. Just get started because you’re going to learn, fix, and grow. There’s always room for improvement, and there are constantly new innovations making it easier to be sustainable. Greenwashing The actual idea of greenwashing which is running with one idea and making it seem like you are doing more is obviously not good. However, that being said, I also don’t want to keep brands that employ thousands of people out of the conversation and out of the journey to being more sustainable. The reality is if you have an established brand, you have shareholders that you are beholden to and profit margins that you have to meet. Period. So what I think is we need to get better collectively as an industry, especially within the sustainable and ethical community to create avenues to be welcoming and take that journey towards being more sustainable. It’s a sensitive subject because you don’t want brands hopping on a trend to make more sales when the point is to fix the industry, but at the same time I think realistically understanding that if we’re going to change this industry, we ALL have to change it, and that includes these big brands.

So how do we help them turn that really big shift. That’s what we want to do at Thr3efold. These brands are already employing tens of thousands of people around the world, so how can we empower them to do that better. H&M Typically the company that has their head on the chopping block, H&M actually pours millions of dollars every year into companies who are working on innovation within circularity and sustainability because they do want to make a change, but they are realistically in a business model that is not conducive for this plan so they are trying to do what they can there. But also when I think about it...I’m from the Carolina’s. I have a lot of friends and family, who haven’t even heard of Aritzia much less Maria Cornejo, or Gabriella Hearst or Stella McCartney. It’s not their world.

So H&M is able to reach those people and talk to them about recycling your clothes, and what is organic cotton and why should you care. They’re able to do it in a way that small brands aren’t. And the small brands have created this demand and created this trend from the groundswell of B2C brands. So we kind of need each other. That’s what it’s going to take to change this whole industry. Entrepreneurship I think everyone, even if they don’t mean to, are overworking to overcompensate for the uncertainty (of COVID). I’ve been doing so much to keep building resources, so that can I serve brands better. But I am not one of those founders that believes you never sleep and never stop working. I believe that rest and recharging is a big part of being able to keep going.

photo courtesy of Thr3efold .

"It seemed really obvious to me that there needed to be a place where brands could search ethical factories around the world and set up their supply chain so it could affect people and the planet.”

HOW DID WE GET HERE?

Similar to the natural and organic food movement, many of us blindly consumed our wardrobe for years assuming the best of the brands who were making our clothes. And to be honest, not giving even

What Makes a Factory Ethical? IN PARTNERSHIP WITH THR3EFOLD BY JESSICA KELLY

the smallest thought to the person who made them living halfway around the world. As the fashion industry went off shore in the 90’s, we became distanced from the process. Sadly, most people living in the western world today, do not even know how to sew a button back on their coat, let alone make an entire garment to have a value for the skill involved. Fast fashion trained us to devalue our clothing. Buy it for $5, wear it a couple times, throw it out quickly and go onto the next shiny new thing. These retailers average 16 collections per year, that’s an entire new crop of clothes every 3 weeks! Who even needs that much clothing?

In the last 5 years you may have become more conscious of your closet. What clothes are you buying? How were they made? How are you disposing of them? Questions you likely didn’t grow up asking, but now find it increasingly easier to shop ethical and live a more sustainable life.

But after the Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh in 2013, the world halted. Suddenly, we were awoken to the massive issues in fashion that were being swept under the rug and one thing became very clear; something had to change. Since that sad day, big brands and factories have banded together to regulate sweeping change in factory standards across Bangladesh, and those standards have spread to other countries as well.

Simultaneously other players have

WHAT MAKES A FACTORY ETHICAL?

gotten involved. A groundswell of bold new brands emerged, like a small army, on a mission to take back fashion’s

The supply chain is global, complex, and

humanity and deliver a better product

ever changing. Brands face two big

that actually gives a shit. The woke

challenges when it comes to navigating

millennials and Gen Z consumers

the supply chain. First, factories are

demanded better standards, and

privately owned, which means Gap

organizations popped up and began

cannot just tell their factory, “Hey, we are

demanding transparency from brands

going to start paying you more and that

who had been hiding these malpractices

money must go to your underpaid

and assuming no responsibility and the

garment workers.”

world began to change. Secondly, factories are decentralized, so there is no universal set of standards by which they are regulated. This is why BUILDING AN ETHICAL BRAND

working with a trusted, ethically certified factory who shares the same values you

This all sounds great right? But that still leaves us with the simple fact that no one has any clue how clothes are made. Even passionate people who bravely step out to create a conscious fashion brand, face a seemingly insurmountable learning curve. Where do you find a factory? Which fabric should you choose? Whoa-

do is so important. There are several ethical certifications on the market, and they range in the minimums they require but all orbit around these same eight standards: (cont. on next page)

minimums are high, how do small brands do this? Ugh, packaging is all plastic, are we even doing the right thing here? Eek if we don’t start making more sales soon we will be out of business and all this will be for naught. - - This is the general journey a small brand takes to launch and grow in this industry today. So while it may now be common knowledge that our clothes need to be made better, it’s still insider information as to how.

Fast fashion trained us to devalue our clothing. Buy it for $5, wear it a couple times, throw it out quickly and go onto the next shiny new thing. These retailers average 16 collections per year, that’s an entire new crop of clothes every 3 weeks! Who even needs that much clothing?

1 | No Child Labor No worker is 15 years of age or under. Additionally, any young worker, within a legal student age, cannot work during school hours or during night hours.

2 | No Forced Labor Workers are willingly employed and can leave at any time, and no pay is withheld for performance or any other factors.

3 | Dependable Pay Wages start at the minimum wage of the country's legal requirements and go up from there. Pay is on time and overtime is paid at a premium rate. Some certifications require a living wage which also factors in the cost of living for a small family including enough to have a small emergency fund for medical care.

Some certifications are self-assessments which we find to be risky and that is why the ethical certifications we accept at THR3EFOLD are all conducted by outside auditing bodies, who come in 1-2 times each year to check standards and ensure the factory is up to code. The certification system is

4 | No Discrimination Workers are hired, fired, promoted, or demoted on performance and capability alone and not due to race, gender, sexual orientation, religion, or socioeconomic status.

not perfect, but for now, it’s the best we’ve got. Some certifications you can check out are GOTS, SA8000, and WRAP.

WHAT NOW? The fashion industry is an old-school, exclusive club. In fact, before 2020 much of the backend of our industry was still

5 | Clear and Safe Communication from Management Factories will remain free of supervisory or co-worker harassment or abuse. Job responsibilities are clearly defined and factory policies are clear and posted.

predicated on insider information, outdated technology, and middle men. As COVID forced fashion to go digital overnight, and retail hustled to stay in business, another interesting thing happened, brands got serious about their sustainability action plans. Navigating how to build an ethical and sustainable fashion brand is overwhelming and confusing. That’s why at THR3EFOLD we try to make it easier by providing brands with access to an ethical supply chain and training so they can grow their business for people, planet, and profit.

6 | Safe & Healthy Workplace Environment Factory will eliminate or minimize hazardous working conditions wherever possible and provide aid for any injured workers. Buildings pass all safety requirements and fire exits remain unlocked and clearly marked.

7 | The Right to Unionize The factory will respect the worker’s right to form and/or join a trade union to protect their rights and treatment.

"Many of us blindly consumed our

wardrobe for years assuming the best

8 | Eco-Conscious Factories will reduce waste when possible and must show improvement in their environmental impact upon each audit check-in.

of the brands who were making our

clothes. And to be honest, not giving

even the smallest thought to the

person who made them living halfway

around the world."

Jessica Kelly is the Founder & CEO of THR3EFOLD. She’s spent a decade helping hundreds of fashion & lifestyle brands in New York City grow their business through marketing, sales, and PR. During a life-changing trip to India, she saw first hand the issues with the supply chain and fashion industry, and was set on a mission to change it. THR3EFOLD provides fashion brands with access to an ethical supply chain and training so they can grow their business for people, planet, and profit.

Meet the Designers These three designers are paving the way for ethical, sustainable & diverse fashion

SAREP + ROSE

ROBIN SIRLEAF, FOUNDER OF SAREP + ROSE

What's been the best and worst part of growing an ethical business? The best part is undoubtedly being such a direct part of people’s livelihoods, and getting to see that firsthand. The worst is that It’s certainly more expensive, slow and sometimes less-efficient way to operate, so it can be challenging. But going to discover and work with artisans and manufacturers myself is what motivates me to keep pushing because when my brand succeeds or fails has a direct impact on so many more people. What was your "ah-ha" moment / why did you decide to create your brand? About 10 years ago I was obsessed with wearing a particular bag my Grandma gifted me that was made in Liberia- where my family is originally from. I was often asked it if it was from an Urban Outfitters or Topshop and when I said where it was from, there was usually a response along the lines of “Wow it’s so nice! That bag doesn’t even look African!”. After years of hearing this, I began to wonder about the ramifications of these statements [which I talk about in depth in this blog post] and felt that it was time to change perceptions of African people, places and things.

"But going to discover and work with artisans and manufacturers myself is what motivates me to keep pushing because when my brand succeeds or fails has a direct impact on so many more people."

How has it been working with Thr3efold? The worst thing about working with Thre3fold is that I wish I had found them in 2017 when I started my business!!! I would have saved TONS of money and effort in so many of the wrong areas. The weekly meetings were so crucial and Jessica’s content touches upon literally every single critical aspect of running a fashion business you’ll need. I don’t come from a fashion background, so there were SO many lingering ‘dark spots’ for me navigating the space and the syllabus – many taught by industry experts ready to give tailored advice to my business specifically – has given me such an amazing framework that I am now using to tighten my brand presence and put strategic procedures in place of rather random execution- something I feel creatives struggle with a lot!

Sarep + Rose is a lifestyle brand focused on merging style & function with social impact. Founder Robin Sirleaf travels across West and East Africa to discover the best materials and makers to design goods that change outdated narratives of 'African' people, places and things. From artisanal collectives in markets to fair trade factories, these leather handbags, sandals and baskets are created from leathers rescued from waste, natural grasses and handwoven textiles.

PRISM BAGS

HELEN & RACHEL LEE CO-FOUNDERS, PRISM

Tell us about your brand When we think of sustainable women’s fashion, we often think of luxury markups and expensive prices that only 2% of the population can afford. This is a critical problem, as when only a small percentage of women can afford accessories that are marketed as sustainable, the other 98% of women are unfairly excluded from the choice of ethical consumption and are often pushed to perpetuate the demand for fast fashion. We decided to apply the philosophy of accessible sustainable fashion to a segment of the fashion industry that’s seen the least amount of innovation in the last 50 years: the women’s bag industry. PRISM democratizes sustainable fashion by creating functional, contemporary, and ethically-made bags and accessories for busy women, without the luxury markup. We combat carbon emissions by using REACH-compliant vegan leather and 100% recycled materials from plastic ocean waste. What is REACH? REACH is a regulation of the European Union, adopted to improve the protection of human health and the environment from the risks that can be posed by chemicals. Leather is one of the larger environmental pollutants due to the chemicals involved in leathertanning and emissions of CO2 from cattle-raising. As a result, many brands transitioned to using vegan leather. However, it’s worth noting that not all vegan leather is created the same, as many vegan leather materials are made of PVC, which is harmful to the environment.

At PRISM, we want to ensure that our vegan leather blend is better for the environment than genuine leather and mainstream vegan leather. We use our own unique blend of custom engineered, REACH-certified vegan leather that doesn’t contain organic pollutants, heavy metals, formaldehyde, or pyroxylin. Our REACH certification helps us ensure that we minimize harmful by-products as a result of production. We educate our customers and provide incentives and discounts on their next purchase if they choose to recycle their used PRISM bag, as we want to further prevent our bags ending up in landfills.

How has your overall experience been with creating sustainable brand? Our overall experience has been extremely rewarding, as we’re passionate about sustainability, ethical manufacturing, and intentionally-designed products for women! Our brand, PRISM Bags, creates sustainable, functional, and contemporary bags and accessories for busy women, without the luxury price tag to democratize sustainable and ethical fashion. With each bag sold, our mission is to empower our users by creating bags with the perfect amount of pockets, while teaching women in underserved areas how to read and write, revolutionize our industry by producing ethically with our fair-labor certified factories, and combat carbon emissions by using sustainable, cruelty-free vegan leather and recycled materials. How has it been working with Thr3efold? Working with Thr3efold helped us critically think about the manufacturers we work with and learn more about sustainable materials and practices. Most of the mentors we were able to connect with were very supportive and helped us navigate the sustainable fashion space. Our core belief is that everyone has a place in the sustainable fashion movement and we want to make accessible essentials for women who can do it all.

CEE CEE'S CLOSET

UCHENNA & CHIOMA NGWUDO COFOUNDERS, CEE CEE'S CLOSET

Why did you decide to create your brand? We knew we had to start our brand when we saw that there was a need for readily accessible, fashionable, African-made clothes and accessories.

What's been the best and worst part of growing an ethical business? The best part of running an ethical business is witnessing the positive economic impact my business has in communities in Nigeria and Brooklyn. The worst part of running an ethical business is the uncertainty that comes with working in an environment that’s constantly changing. Oftentimes we have to navigate issues that many small businesses couldn’t imagine.

How has it been working with Thr3efold? What lessons have you learned along the way? Working with Thr3efold has been a transformational experience. We gained a lot of clarity with defining our brand and carving out our marketing strategy. This summer we experienced exponential growth because Jessica equipped us with the tools necessary to share our story and our brand messaging across.

Cee Cee’s Closet NYC is a values-facing, e-commerce powerhouse. The company is a strategic fusion of sector expertise, product acumen, and passionate joy from sisters Uchenna and Chioma Ngwudo. Their finance, fashion design, and marketing sector experience, coupled with deep commitment to socially meaningful entrepreneurship, established them as an up and coming enterprise to watch.

FALL ESSENTIALS Each of these pieces has been carefully curated featuring small businesses specializing in sustainable & ethical manufacturing. The Par en Par Wrap dress is the perfect extra layer during for the fall transition and can be worn as dress or robe.

1 FACE MASKS $40 (for set of 3) www.madetrade.com

2. POCKET BUM BAG $138 www.hfscollective.com

3. PLAYA STRIPE WRAP DRESS BY PAR EN PAR $218 www.accompanyus.com

4. VINTAGE PEARL ALPACA THROW $115 www.accompanyus.com

5. Alem Backpack $238 www.livefashionable.com 6. Cotton Jersey pants by Harvest & Mill $59 www.harvestandmill.com

6 57

In this article, I’ll talk about the importance of ‘sustainable beauty’ and break down the above mentioned terms.There’s a big push towards a circular economy in every industry, and now more than ever beauty and personal care manufacturers and suppliers are raising the bar on BY LIN CHEN Sustainable beauty has grown significantly over the past few years. It’s amazing to see consumers demanding healthy beauty products! There are many terms these days: clean, green, natural, organic, vegan, safe, cruelty free, nontoxic… Not only that, but there is a dizzying array of options available and opinions on what is “clean”, so we understand that might have made it difficult to know what’s actually right for you.

sustainability. The idea is to create a system that can help eliminate waste and provide a continual use of resources that would otherwise go to landfills, or worse, end up as pollutants or contaminants. At Pink Moon, we use “sustainable” and “eco” terms. Pink Moon’s definition of sustainability takes into account the environmental aspects of beauty but also the ethics behind ingredients and business practices. We look for brands that embrace circularity and look to alternative raw material sources and production methods for product development. Finding sustainable beauty brands isn’t easy and requires a lot of research. Thankfully, there are a lot more great green beauty brands

What is Sustainable Beauty?

out there now, but it’s important to understand what makes a brand truly sustainable.

Clean Includes natural and synthetic ingredients but will not cause any potential harm or irritation to the body, and has the added bonus of being cruelty free and friendly to the planet

Green Means the product should do no harm to the environment. For example, a reef-safe sunscreen with biodegradable packaging would be labeled green. However, this is a loose term with no true definition and is usually used as an umbrella for any product that claims to protect the planet’s resources.

Natural Means they are not chemically produced and have no added synthetics, however, any brand easily slap ‘’natural on a label, regardless of the ingredients. It all comes down to actually reading the labels.

SUSTAINABLE BEAUTY Buzz Words

I’ve been working in the eco beauty space for nearly a decade

Organic The most regulated term, but only if you see the USDA-certified, COSMOS, or EcoCert logo, which means it’s certified organic. In other words, it has been certified by an accredited agent and made from ingredients that were produced, handled, and packaged to the proper standards

now, and have been using natural beauty products since middle school (my foray into eco beauty was avoiding products that were tested on animals, and unknowingly at that time in the early 2000s, the only brands that were cruelty free and easy to find were sold at Whole Foods and farmers markets). To me, the heart of sustainable / green beauty is not about what’s not included in the products and what’s not “toxic” and “harmful”. It’s about the connection to the earth and the connection that we feel to nature each time we use these thoughtfully crafted natural eco products. From the most moisturizing of oils to the gentlest of exfoliators, we’re

Vegan Doesn’t contain any animal byproducts or ingredients sourced from animals. Common non-vegan ingredients found in eco beauty products include beeswax, honey, lanolin, and tallow. Many people associate vegan with clean, but this is not the case. A product can be vegan and still contain potentially harmful ingredients.

conscious of the fact that choosing to use plant-based products is a powerful experience. It’s not always easy to get out into nature, but with these products by our side (and on our shelves!), our skin and senses can experience the pure bounty that our planet has provided. So, what is the difference between clean, green, natural, organic…? The FDA does not regulate any of these terms, so it can get pretty complicated. Here is a quick breakdown of these buzzwords:

Non-Toxic Interchanged with “clean beauty” – means that a product shouldn’t include any ingredient that’s been deemed toxic at any dose by a thirdparty resource like the European Union or EWG (Environmental Working Group).

Sustainable Sustainable goes hand in hand with green. It means that the ingredients on the inside of the package— including how those ingredients were sourced—and the packaging itself should not be harmful to the planet. When you use any product, the ingredients go down the drain and into the water system, which, thanks to exfoliating microbeads and preservatives like BHA, is causing a marine environment health crisis.

" I want this space to be safe for

True sustainable ingredients are those that are ethically sourced and proven to be safe for the environment, with sustainable or no-waste packaging being defined as glass packaging, biodegradable packaging, or postconsumer recycled packaging.

anyone who wants to explore eco and

green beauty. There is no

greenwashing, no deception, and no

shaming at Pink Moon. This is a place

for education, empowerment, self-

Cruelty-Free A beauty product is cruelty-free if it has not been tested on animals anywhere along the manufacturing line or before being sold. It can also mean that any animal-derived ingredients were not extracted at the expense of an animal’s welfare (like natural-fiber makeup brushes). A beauty product can be cruelty-free but not vegan, and vice versa.

care and self-love, and healing. "

Lin Chen is a second generation Asian American and was raised in Southern California, schooled in Texas and Taiwan, and is now a social entrepreneur in NYC. Her experience and passion for holistic living ultimately led her to create Pink Moon, a NYC based boutique consultancy and newly launched wellcare ecommerce that features female-founded eco beauty/lifestyle brands. Pink Moon aims to uplift and radically transform the eco beauty industry.

Sustainable Beauty Swaps

Here are some of our favorite sustainable beauty swaps that you can find in the Pink Moon shop! RELATO NATIVO ORGANIC COTTON PADS / MINI FACE TOWEL ($28) replaces disposable cotton rounds. Made in Oaxaca, Mexico by indigenous women, this organic cotton project helps to support over 300 indigenous families.

CUPID & PSYCHE BEAUTY LIPSTICKS ($23) One of the most famous and breathtaking locations to visit in Barcelona the most famous building in the entire city and its landmark, La Sagrada Familia. Although incomplete, the church is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and in November 2010 was consecrated and proclaimed a minor basilica by Pope Benedict XVI.

ACTIVIST COLLECTIVE a plastic free skincare brand that also donates 5% of profits to eco advocacy. Handcrafted in sunny southern California, Activist’s product line is 100% plant-based and suitable for sensitive skin.

A BEGINNERS 18

Guide to Going Vegan Going vegan can seem like it would be an impossible task. The pressure of never eating eggs or cheese again let alone not wearing leather can oftentimes discourage people from getting started. While caring about sustainable fashion is obviously never going to be a 100% sustainable act, the thought of going vegan has always had somewhat of a stigma of being an all or nothing mentality. This is where we need to change the conversation. No one is perfect when it comes to sustainability. When it comes to eating and becoming a vegan, we’ve got to change our perspective. We place so much pressure, and labels on everything to wear as a badge of honor, but this does not create an inclusive environment. That’s where Kelci from Positive Plate comes in. While she’s mainly a vegan she has no qualms about splurging on a piece of birthday cake. By creating an inclusive community, she embraces being a vegan but also doesn’t shame or guilt anyone who doesn’t follow a strict vegan lifestyle. Through Positive Plate, Kelci is changing the conversation around veganism and shares helpful tips plus delicious vegan recipes that will make anyone’s mouth water (dare we say even the meat lover?)

When and why did you decide to go vegan? I became a vegetarian at 14. I had no idea how long it would last or the lifelong journey that I had just embarked upon. After being vegetarian for over 16 years, I found that my initial decision to avoid meat was one that had become a way of life. I didn't miss meat, and I didn't feel like I was missing out, either. But another shift had started happening in my brain. While I originally went vegetarian for the animals, I started to learn about the vast and damaging effects of dairy consumption on our planet. photo courtesy of Kelci DeFrancesco of Positive Plate

"I started Positive Plate because I wanted to open up a positive, empowering conversation around plant-based eating. I think sometimes the conversation around veganism can make people feel ashamed, guilty, or stressed out."

With harrowing headlines about our 2030 climate deadline looming large in my brain, I started making the decision to avoid milk, eggs, and cheese when I could. Over time, I realized that those changes still didn't leave me feeling deprived or craving dairy - quite the opposite. Every time I sat down to a meal that I'd prepared entirely from plants, I felt happy. From there, eating more and more plantbased meals became a joy, rather than something that felt extreme or scary.

How did you come up with the idea for Positive Plate? I started Positive Plate because I wanted to open up a positive, empowering conversation around plant-based eating. I think sometimes the conversation around veganism can make people feel ashamed, guilty, or stressed out. Through Positive Plate, I am able to share how easy, fun, and delicious plant-based food can truly be.

For me, the magic is in the middle. I believe that it is better for all of us to do something, than for a few to do everything. By eating mostly plant-based, I know that I am greatly reducing my negative impact on our planet and its creatures. But will I share a cheese plate with friends, or have a slice of birthday cake at a party? Heck yes! When we work together, the conversation can shift from one of negativity to empowerment. From perfection to positivity. And when we approach it this way, that's how we're going to make real progress.

What are some tips for someone wanting to become a vegan? Educate yourself on the why of plant-based eating or veganism. While vegan eating can be super delicious and easy, depending on your current habits, it can feel like a big change. It will be important that you have a solid understanding of your “why” in order to incorporate the changes into your life long term. From there, you can take the transition slowly! Some people prefer to go cold turkey, but I have found that making small changes over time is the most sustainable and enjoyable way to make the switch. I went vegetarian very quickly, but my transition to my 80/20 plant-based diet has happened over the course of 1-2 years. Start by taking inventory of what you eat in a day, and see if you can swap out something at every meal. Luckily, it is easier than ever to pick up plantbased ingredients at the store or find vegan options at restaurants.

Why should someone consider going vegan? Veganism is one of the easiest ways to drastically reduce your impact on our planet and fight climate change. Beyond that, there are plenty of positives that you’ll explore over time! My number one benefit is that no matter what is going on in the world - I can be at ease knowing that I am doing my part by filling my plate with things that are in alignment with my values. I love our planet and I love animals, so I love knowing that my choices help protect both from harm.

What's the biggest misconception around being a vegan? That you have to be all or nothing! You can eat lots of plant-based food and still enjoy pizza or ice cream every now and then. Every little bit counts! Even one meatless meal a day can add up to have massive benefits. Just take your time and have fun exploring new foods and ingredients - you can do it!

Caramelized Onion Tart with Arugula Salad by Positive Plate Ingredient List

Tart Ingredients: 1 sheet of puff pastry 2 large onions, thinly sliced 2 tbs olive oil 2-3 sprigs fresh thyme 1/2 cup red wine (optional) 1/4-3/4 cup veggie broth or water

photo courtesy of Positive Plate

Instructions:

Arugula Salad Ingredients: 3 oz. arugula 1/4 cup light oil (vegetable, grapeseed, etc.) 2 tbs olive oil 2 tbs Dijon mustard 2 tbs red wine vinegar 1/4 cup hot water 5 turns fresh black pepper Tiny pinch of sugarSea salt to taste

1. Thaw your puff pastry according to package instructions. 2. Preheat the oven to 400F. 3. Heat 2 tbs olive oil in a large skillet over medium low heat. Add onions and stir once, then allow to cook undisturbed for 10 minutes. 4. Gently roll your puff pastry out into a rectangle. 5. Using a sharp knife or pizza cutter, cut off 1/4 inch of each side of the rectangle to even out the shape. 6. Run a small amount of water along the edges of the pastry, and place the strips of pastry on top, gently pressing them down to attach the two pieces together. 7. Make small holes in the center of the dough using a fork. Bake at 400 F for 15 minutes while you caramelize your onions. 8. After the onions have cooked for 10 minutes in the skillet, add salt, pepper, and thyme. Do not stir the onions more than once every five minutes, or they won’t brown. 9. If at any point, the onions begin to stick to the bottom of the pan, add water or veggie broth 1/4 cup at a time to the pan. 10. Once the onions have cooked for a total of 30-45 minutes and have broken down and become golden brown, they are ready. 11. Add all the dressing ingredients to a blender. Blend for 10-15 seconds, until combined. Toss a small amount of dressing with arugula and set aside. Leftover dressing can be stored in the fridge. 12. Spread the onions evenly on the puff pastry. Bake at 350 F for 6-7 minutes. 13. Remove from oven and allow to cool slightly. Top with arugula salad, and more fresh thyme, if you wish. Enjoy! Serves 2-4.

Global Garbs - A Sustainable Fashion Magazine

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