Globerovers Magazine, December 2018

GlobeRovers

Feature Article

10 Along the Great Silk Road of Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan lies on an ancient trade route, the so-called “Great Silk Road”, connecting China with the Mediterranean. Located in Central Asia, over hundreds of years cities such as Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva were important outposts on this vital route where traders brought in much-needed goods and money to the locals and beyond. The area fourished as the many old medieval blue-domed buildings and bazaars can attest. Explore the ancient mosques, mausoleums, madrassa, cathedrals, fortresses, and palaces, then head out for remote yurtstays.

Japan’s Tropical Okinawa Islands

Japan’s most southern islands stretch all the way to Taiwan. With a history founded in the days of the Ryukyu Kingdom, the islands have strong traditions celebrated with colourful festivals. e many tropical islands of Okinawa are fringed by corals and turquoise waters.

Europe’s 10 Lilliputian Countries

We count down Europe’s ten smallest countries based on land area and are amazed by the many unexplored secrets o ered by these “Lilliputian” countries. ough tiny by land area, they are packed with surprises, even to the most seasoned travellers.

Patagonia’s Glaciers, Argentina

Argentina’s southern Patagonia region is famous for its Los Glaciares National Park with several massive glaciers. Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the most impressive glaciers in the world, while nearby Upsala Glacier is one of the largest glaciers in South America.

Jordan’s Ancient Rock City

e ancient rock-carved city of Petra is a honeycomb of caves, temples, and tombs carved from blushing pink sandstone in the high desert of Jordan. Established around the 6th century BC, it was the capital of the Nabataeans, a nomadic desert people. In 1985, Petra was designated a World Heritage Site.

SPECIAL FEATURES

Sensible Travel Gear

Tasty Traveller’s Treats

Postcards to Mommy

CONTRIBUTIONS

Sea Save Foundation & Cocos Island

South Africa’s Cape West Coast

In Conversation with...

Australia’s Lord Howe Island

The Road to Bella Coola, Canada

Travellers in the Spotlight

Book Review

TOP LISTS

10 Great Experiences in Uzbekistan

10 Highlights of Europe’s Lilliputians

9 Must-do places to visit in 2019

IN THE NEXT ISSUE

Cyprus - A Divided Island

e island of Cyprus is the third largest island in the Mediterranean. Divided by the Turks in the north and the Greeks in the south, the island is known for its beautiful turquoise seas, ancient Roman ruins, salt lakes, and friendly people.

Stork at the Khast Imam complex, Tashkent, Uzbekistan

ARTICLES + PHOTOS ESSAYS

THE FRONT COVER: e Old City Walls, Khiva, Uzbekistan

Globerovers Magazine

is currently a biannual magazine, available in digital and printed formats. We focus on bringing exciting destinations and inspiring photography from around the globe to the intrepid traveller.

Published in Hong Kong

Printed in U.S.A. and Europe

WHO WE ARE:

Editor-in-Chief - Peter Steyn

Editorial Director - Tsui Chi Ho

Graphic Designer - Peter Steyn

Photographer & Writer - Peter Steyn

Chief Proofreader - Janet-Lynn Vorster

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Editor‛s Message

“Not all those who wander are lost”. J.R.R. Tolkien John Tolkien (3 Jan 1892 – 2 Sep 1973), an English writer, poet, philologist, university professor, and author of ‘The Hobbit’, and ‘Lord of the Rings’.

Dear Readers,

In this 12th issue of Globerovers Magazine, we are pleased to bring you a variety of exciting destinations and other reading enjoyment.

e feature destination is Uzbekistan, a country that has been strategically located on the Great Silk Road for hundreds of years. Being a major trading hotspot on the caravan route, the country is rich in history with many beautiful old buildings. We start our journey in the capital city, Tashkent, and travel by overnight train to the historic city of Khiva, and then continue to Bukhara and Samarkand.

We also visit all 10 of Europe’s smallest countries. ey are so small that we call them the “Lilliputian Countries”. While small in surface area, we found they have no shortage of interesting attractions, so we are excited to return and explore more.

We have another contribution in our series about South Africa. is time we travel the West Coast Peninsula and up along the Cape West Coast to Bird Island with thousands of blue-eyed Cape gannets and cormorants.

Photo Essays include Japan’s Okinawa Islands, the glaciers of Argentina, and PetraJordan’s ancient rock city. We also include contributions from Canada and Australia.

A special thank you to our sponsors and also to our contributors who we introduce on page 5.

Visit our website and social media. For easy access, scan the QR codes on page 7. Feedback to editor@ globerovers.com.

I travel so you can see the world!

Peter Steyn, PhD Editor-in-Chief and Publisher

Old city walls of Khiva, Uzbekistan

While Uzbekistan’s city of Khiva is about 2500 years old, it acquired much of its present architectural appearance between the 18th and early 20th centuries. The inner town, known as “Itchan Kala”, has been protected by fortif cation walls for millennia. Destroyed by Mongol and Persians invaders (to name just two forces), rebuilt, and destroyed again, the current iteration dates back to the mid 19th century while some parts are more recent. The enclosure has four monumental gates directing north, south, east and west.

THE FRONT COVER

Thanks to our Contributors

CONTRIBUTORS

All words and photos by Peter Steyn, except where otherwise indicated. A very special thank you to our awesome contributors in this issue. Without you, Globerovers Magazine just wouldnʼt be the same!

Janet-Lynn Vorster, Cape Town, South Africa (page 90)

Janet is a numerologist by profession, and journalist, editor and photographer by hobby. She is the proud mother of three grown children and granny to three grandchildren. Janet is the Southern African editor as well as Chief Proofreader for Globerovers Magazine.

Marion Halliday, Adelaide, South Australia (page 124)

Marion is “Red Nomad OZ”, author, blogger and Aussie traveller who loves discovering naturebased attractions and activities – and scenic loos – all over Australia. Her Aussie travel blog and published book “Aussie Loos with Views” provide inspiration for other Aussie explorers.

Yrene Dee, Lumby, BC, Canada (Page 142)

Yrene is the founder of BackcountryCanadaTravel.com. She was born in Switzerland, lived and worked on different continents and travelled the world before she settled in Canada. She is an entrepreneur, wilderness nut, and animal lover who prefers off-the-beaten-track places.

Abdulaziz Alkazhi, Melbourne, Australia (page 118)

Abdulaziz, known as Aziz, grew up in the small town of Al-Mahwit in Yemen. Aziz was just 14 years old and working in a small shop in his hometown of Al-Mahwit when I frst met him in 2007. More than a decade later Aziz found me and we talked about his life in war-torn Yemen.

Georgienne Bradley, Malibu, California, USA (Page 86)

Georgienne is the founder and executive director of Sea Safe Foundation, and co-owner of Bradley Ireland Productions, an underwater still photography and video stock house. As a well-known conservationist she is much involved in protecting marine life off the remote Cocos Island.

Dariece Swift & Nick, Canada and the Caribbean (page 152)

Dariece Swift is a co-founder of goatsontheroad.com, and together with her best friend, travel partner and love of her life, Nick, she’s been travelling the world since 2008. She loves meeting new people and learning about the unique cultures of our world.

Stefano Ferro, Melbourne, Australia (page 154)

Stefano is a professional photographer with past experience in the cycling and flm industry. Since 2015 Stefano has been working uniquely on MEL365, a travel and photography website to enhance the travelling experience and improve photography skills.

Christine Dutaut & Toby, Essex, United Kingdom (page 155)

Christine has been living in the UK for most of her life and more specifcally in the little town of Maldon, Essex. By her side is her partner in crime, and equal travel enthusiast Toby. Together they travel the world and offer inspiration to others to go and “See it with your own eyes” too.

The Globerovers‛ World

Globerovers Magazine was created by Peter Steyn, an avid explorer who is constantly in search of the edge of the world. He will always hike the extra mile or ten to get as far off the beaten track as he can.

It is his mission to discover and present the most exciting destinations for intrepid travellers. He has visited 122 countries (including territories: Greenland, Hong Kong, Macau) and is poised to explore Africa & the Pacific Islands in the coming months. Peter’s home is wherever he lays down his cameras.

Afghanistan

Albania

Andorra

Argentina

Armenia

Australia

Austria

Azerbaijan

Bahrain

Bangladesh

Belarus

Belgium

Belize

Bolivia

Bosnia-Herzegovina

Brazil

Brunei

Bulgaria

Cambodia

Canada

Chile

China

Colombia

Costa Rica

Croatia

Cuba

Cyprus

Czech Rep.

Denmark

Ecuador

Egypt

El Salvador

Estonia

Finland

France

Georgia

Germany

Greece

Greenland

Guatemala

Honduras

Hong Kong

Hungary

Iceland

India

Indonesia

Iran

Ireland

Israel

Italy

Japan

Jordan

Kazakhstan

Kosovo

Kyrgyzstan

Laos

Latvia

Lebanon

Lesotho

Liechtenstein

Lithuania

Luxembourg

Macau

Macedonia

Malaysia

Maldives

Malta

Mauritius

Mexico

Moldova

Monaco

Montenegro

Morocco

Myanmar / Burma

Namibia

Nepal

Netherlands

New Zealand

Nicaragua

North Korea

Norway

Oman

Pakistan

Panama

Papua New Guinea

Paraguay

Peru

Philippines

Poland

Portugal

Romania

Russia

San Marino

Serbia

Singapore

Slovakia

Slovenia

South Africa

South Korea

Spain

Sri Lanka

Swaziland

Sweden

Switzerland

Syria

Taiwan

Tajikistan

Thailand

Timor Leste (East Timor)

Turkey

Ukraine

United Arab Emirates

United Kingdom

United States

Uruguay

Uzbekistan

Vanuatu

Vatican

Vietnam

Yemen

Zambia

Zimbabwe

122 and counting..

Uzbekistan

The Ismail Samani Mausoleum in Bukhara was built during the 10th century for the emir of the Samanid dynasty, Ismail Samani. The 1.8 metre thick walls are made of terracotta bricks, covered with a hemispherical dome.

Along the Great Silk Road Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan lies on an ancient trade route, the so-called Great Silk Road, between China and the Mediterranean. For hundreds of years, cities such as Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva were important outposts on this route where traders brought in much-needed goods and money to the locals and beyond. The area flourished as the many old buildings can attest.

Central Asia is unquestionably one of the world’s greatest regions for extraordinary road trips! Whether you do it by 4x4 vehicle, bus, train, shared taxi, cycling, or even by camel, this part of the world will not disappoint you.

Known for its deserts, yurts, nomads, ancient Silk Road cities, staggering mountain ranges, and very large herds of sheep, Central Asia has something for everybody.

e area is vast and diverse. While Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan are the smallest land areas, they are blessed with the highest and most rugged mountains and high-altitude glacial lakes.

Kyrgyzstan is known for its nomadic life in yurts along large freshwater lakes surrounded by wild horses grazing on vast rolling green pastures. To the far east, the TienShan Mountains surge to 7,439 metres on the Kyrgyzstan–China border, while to the southwest the Pamir-Alay Mountains rise to 5,621 metres.

e largest country in the region, Kazakhstan with its almost 3 million square kilometres of land, is the 9th largest country in the world.

For the most interesting deserts (the Kyzylkum and Aralkum deserts), desolate plateaus (Usturt), ancient architecture dating to the Middle Ages, authentic markets and friendly people, head to the land of the Uzbeks!

“Uzbekistan is the most fascinating country you’ve never been to”, proclaims the British newspaper, “ e Telegraph”. Most travellers will agree that Uzbekistan is purely Central Asian, yet it is very di erent to its neighbours.

“With its medieval blue-domed cities, kinetic bazaars and remote yurtstays, Central Asia encapsulates the romance of the Silk Road like nowhere else”.

Tajikistan’s landscape is dominated by the mighty Pamir and Alay Mountains, as well as fertile valleys such as the Fergana, Kofarnihon and the Vakhsh. Along the famous Pamir Highway, turn o into small dirt roads to reach some of the most remote tiny villages known for their tough residents enduring isolation and extreme weather.

Tajikistan’s southern border with Afghanistan follows the contours of the Afghan Wakhan Corridor at the foot of the majestic Hindu Kush Mountain range. Spectacular scenery abounds with ancient fortresses and cosy villages.

The Lonely Planet Guidebooks

While around 1,000 Brits visit Uzbekistan every year (compared with almost 9 million visitors to Spain), Uzbekistan remains an o -the-beaten-track destination. is is a land where you can linger for a long time to explore and decipher the symbolic patterns on ancient mosques, mausoleums, madrassa, cathedrals, fortresses, palaces, and minarets. In addition to the rich history of the Silk Road cities of Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva, Uzbekistan has much to o er including the receding Aral Sea and remote mud-brick fortresses in the Kyzylkum desert.

Best of all, Uzbekistan Railways with its network of over 4,600 km is an exciting way to get around the country.

TASHKENT - THE CAPITAL CITY

Tashkent is the fnancial heart and largest city of Uzbekistan.

With a population of over 2 million people, capital Tashkent has a strong and rich history, and with some luck, it should have a strong and rich future.

Dating back to between the 5th and the 3rd centuries BC, this area was settled by the peoples of ancient Persia (now Iran), the Chinese, the Turks, and many others.

In early times it was known as the principality of Chach and then went through an Islamic period in the mid-7th century under the Persian Zoroastrian Samanid Dynasty (819–999). In 1219 Genghis Khan, founder and Great Khan (emperor) of the Mongol Empire, felt it his duty to destroy the town and kill most of its inhabitants.

However, the city was rebuilt and its culture gradually revived, and it grew substantially as a strategic town on the ancient Silk Road.

In the early 1800’s it was annexed to the Khanate of Kokan which consisted of modern-day Kyrgyzstan, eastern Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and southeastern Kazakhstan.

the city was destroyed by a huge 7.5 earthquake. Sadly, due to the earthquake and redevelopment programs by the Soviets, little of Tashkent’s ancient architectural heritage has survived .

Since the breakup of the USSR in 1991, Tashkent has gone through an entire revival and rediscovery of itself.

Today Tashkent is a vibrant city with modern buildings, fast cars, glitzy ballrooms, and fortunately a few historical buildings and authentic bazaars are still standing.

such as the Navoi Literary Museum, Amir Timur Museum, Fine Arts Museum, History Museum, and Museum of Applied Arts.

One of the most beautiful religious buildings is the Holy Assumption Cathedral (Uspensky Cathedral) which is not far from the central train station.

Tashkent is a clean and well organised city with beautiful historical buildings. Chorsu Bazaar, located near the Kukeldash Madrassa, is totally authentic!

Notable modern buildings in downtown Tashkent include the 22-story National Bank of Uzbekistan, an Intercontinental Hotel, the International Business Centre, Xalq Bank, Dom Forum (modern congress hall) and the Plaza Building.

Among the most interesting sights in town are the Khast Imam complex, Kukeldash Madrassa, Telyashayakh Mosque, Yunus Khan Mausoleum, Palace of Prince Romanov, and the bustling Chorsu Bazaar located next to the Kukeldash Madrassa.

Several museums are worth visiting,

All accommodation for foreign travellers must be registered with the local government o ce. e cosy Gulnara Guesthouse near the Chorsu Bazaar o ers a homestay environment with a pleasant courtyard. Highly recommended is the Lotte City Hotel Tashkent Palace (see advertisement on page 32).

Enjoy your stay. Tashkent is a lovely city.

During the mid-1800’s the Russians, under Mikhail Grigorevich Chernyayev, felt obliged to conquer the city and Mikhail declared himself “Military Governor of Tashkent”.

Tashkent then became the capital of the new territory of Russian Turkistan. With the Nazi German invasion of the Soviet Union in June 1941, many factories were relocated from western Russia and Ukraine to Tashkent in an e ort to preserve the Soviet industrial power.

e city grew substantially under Soviet rule but on April 26, 1966, much of

“ Tashkent is a surprisingly leafy metropolis with a pleasant, unhurried atmosphere.”

Janice Waugh, author, writer, speaker, traveller

UZBEKISTAN TASHKENT

Barak Khan Madrassa at the Khast Imam complex.

Holy Assumption Cathedral (Uspensky Cathedral).

The bazaar sells a variety of goods such as jewelry, pottery, national costumes, and lots of fresh fruits and vegetables.

Bell tower of the Holy Assumption Cathedral of the Virgin (Uspensky Cathedral) in Tashkent. Built in 1871 and enlarged in the 1990s, it was closed for worship in 1933 and in 1945 became a military hospital. After restoration it opened again for worship in December 1945. This beautiful bell tower was rebuilt in 2010.

Juma (Friday) Mosque While the foundations of this mosque were laid in 819, in 1432 a new mosque was built here and has been restored several times. The 1868 earthquake destroyed the mosque almost completely. The most recent extensive restorations were in 2003.

Located behind the 16th century Kukeldash Madrassa and the Friday Mosque, the authentic Chorsu bazaar is one of the most bustling bazaars in Central Asia. It was the central point of trade during the Great Silk Road days.

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Zenkov Cathedral, Almaty Balbals, Bishkek vicinity

Gur-Emir, Samarkand

Darvaza Gas Crater

Panjshanbe Market, Khujand

Uzbekistan: Tashkent

Inside the Barak Khan Madrassa at the Khast Imam complex.

UZBEKISTAN KHIVA

KHIVA

Located close to the border with Turkmenistan, Khiva has a rich history.

An interesting 18-hour overnight train travels from Tashkent to the town of Urgence from where it is a 30-minute shared taxi ride to the ancient city of Khiva.

Buy a so sleeper in a 4-berth compartment but make sure to bring along some local vodka and cookies to make a lot of new friends on the train.

e people of Central Asia, including the Uzbeks, are friendly and very hospita-

ble. During the long train ride, be prepared to act as an entertainer to the entire carriage as people will congregate around a lonely foreigner to listen to stories, see photographs, and to share their food and drinks, in particular, their vodka.

While few people speak English, body language with constant smiling opens the hearts for understanding and for developing fond memories.

Modern-day Khiva is a city of more than 50,000 inhabitants. e ancient in-

ner city (Itchan Kala) is surrounded by 10-metre-high plastered brick walls with foundations laid during the 10th century.

e current walls were erected in the late 17th century and have o en been repaired and partly rebuilt since then.

In the centre of the city is the Juma (Friday) Mosque which was established during the 10th century and rebuilt in the 18th century. However, of the 212 intricately carved wooden columns inside the mosque, several date back to the 10th

The old city of Khiva retains more than 50 historic monuments such as mosques, madrassa, bathhouses, mausoleums, harems and an ark, as well as more than 200 houses built during the 18th century.

century while others are from the 15th to 18th century.

line of the Aral Sea.

e Aral Sea was once the 4th largest body of saline water in the world, but over the past 50 years it has been steadily drying up, mainly due to Soviet mismanagement of the natural resources.

While three to four days are enough to explore the entire Itchan Kala with all of its interesting buildings, an additional few days could be spent exploring the surrounding areas such as the Aral Sea and the town of Mo’ynoq to the north.

Once a thriving shing town on the shores of the lake, Mo’ynoq now lies about 150 km from the rapidly receding shore-

Ships that once oated in the blue waters now stand rusting in the sun and wind at the famous ship graveyard. Mo’ynoq is about 400 km north of Khiva and is best reached by hiring private transportation.

Khiva has a wide variety of accommodation in guesthouses, most notably the B&B Meros which is a lovely house in the old city of Itchan Kala. To splurge, stay in the Orient Star Khiva or the Bek Khiva Hotel.

JOIN US FOR INTREPID FUN

G l o b e R o v e r s

M a g a z i n e

The old city can keep you busy for several days.”

The Harem next to Isfandiyar Palace (Nurullabay’s Palace) was built between 1906 and 1912 during the rule of Khiva khan Muhammad Rakhim-khan II.

Interior of the Nurullabay’s Palace.

Uzbekistan: Khiva

Top: Khuna Ark. Located at the west gate, it was Khiva rulers’ private fortress.

Right: Minaret of Juma Mosque. The 18th-century minaret has a diameter at the base of 6.2 m and a height of 32.5 m.

Bottom: Tosh Hovli Palace. The ‘Stone House’ features Khiva’s most elaborate decorations.

The old city walls of Khiva have been protecting the inner city (Itchan Kala) for hundreds of years, and possibly since the establishment of the city about 2,500 years ago. Destroyed by Mongol invaders in the 13th century and natural disasters and decay over the years, the walls have been rebuilt a few times. What we see today was built between the 18th and early 20th centuries. With four imposing main gates, the eastern gate, called Palvan-Darvoza (Hero Warrior’s Gate), is the most remarkable.

Built by order of Seyid Muhammad Rahim Khan, and it was completed in 1876. The large rectangular building houses 76 hujras (rooms), two courtyards, darshana (classroom for the study of religion and science), winter and summer mosques, and a library.

Mohammed Rahim Khan Madrassa.

Uzbekistan: Khiva

Khiva’s ancient inner city, the Itchan Kala, is surrounded by 10-metre-high plastered brick walls with foundations laid during the 10th century. A World Heritage Site since 1990, it is a beehive of activity and is packed with outstanding historic buildings such as the spectacular Juma Mosque, mausoleums, madrassas, several imposing minarets, and two magnifcent palaces built at the beginning of the 19th century.

BUKHARA

A charming town packed with many interesting and historic sites.

The railway line between Khiva and Bukhara takes a detour via Navoi to the north which will require a change of trains.

e faster way from Khiva to Bukhara is by private taxi, or for a cheaper option settle for a shared taxi which leaves when lled to the brim.

e ve to six-hour journey to cross 450 km goes along the border with Turkmenistan. It is a lonely and boring road

through a semi-desert terrain.

Bukhara, with a population of about 270,000, is one of the larger cities in Uzbekistan and also one of the oldest. While settlements in the area were founded in the 6th century BC, most of the current buildings date back between the 15th and 17th centuries while some were built during the 9th and 10th centuries.

Being part of the Persian Empire for several years, many of the current inhabitants can trace back their roots to the Persians.

Located on the ancient Silk Road, the city was not only well known for its trade

in copper, but also as the intellectual centre of the Islamic world. As such, the city is dotted with numerous mosques and madrassas, most notably the Kalon Mosque and its prominent minaret, the Ulugbek Madrassa, Abdul Aziz Khan Madrassa, and the Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum.

e most prominent feature of Bukhara is its fortress that was initially built and occupied around the 5th century AD. Better known as the Ark of Bukhara, it was a small walled city inhabited by various royal courts.

Today the Ark is an interesting museum that showcases the town’s history.

Bukhara was the largest centre for Muslim theology from the 9th to the 16th centuries and is an unspoiled example of a medieval Central Asia town.

Ulugbek Madrassa.

Sadly, Bukhara lost some its most precious and ancient structures during the Arab invasion and again when conquered by Genghis Khan in 1220.

was once a gatehouse of a madrassa that no longer stands. Built along with its madrassa in 1807, its architecture is more Indian in style than Uzbek. In 1998 UNESCO restored one of the towers which had collapsed.

UZBEKISTAN BUKHARA

Unlike Khiva, several notable sights are outside the old city of Bukhara but can be reached on foot or by bicycle. ere is much to experience around town which includes the many primary sights but also many lesser-visited sites as well as the authentic Kukluk Bazaar.

Char Minar (meaning “four minarets”)

e Bolo-Hauz Mosque was built during the early 18th century and was a place of prayer for the Emirs and their entourage. e pool in front of the mosque is the oldest part of the ensemble and is one of the few remaining in Bukhara. In honour of this pool, the mosque is called Bolo-Hauz, which means “children’s pool.” Its 40 slender, elegantly carved wooden pillars hold up a beautifully restored painted ceiling. We highly recommend staying at the refurbishment Rustam and Zukhra B&B now known as the stylish As-Salom Hotel (see advertisement on page 33).

“ Bukhara has many off-the-beaten-track sites waiting to be discovered.”

Emir Alim Khan Madrassa.

City walls around the Bukhara Ark.

Entrance to the Bukhara Ark (fortress).

Uzbekistan: Bukhara

Top, clockwise:

1) Abdul Aziz Khan Madrassa, 2) Ismail Samani Mausoleum, 3) Kalon Mosque and minaret, 4) Char Minar.

Shaybanid town walls. With only about 2 km of the original 12 km of the Shaybanid-era town walls still remaining, these eroded left-overs offer some insight into what the full length protective walls would have looked like.

Bolo-Hauz Mosque. Built during the early 18th century, the BoloHauz Mosque has 40 slender and elegantlycarved wooden pillars that hold up a beautifully restored painted ceiling.

Uzbekistan: Bukhara

Fayzulla Khojaev House.

Located in the Goziyon neighborhood, the old section of the city, this house belonged to a rich merchant who traded in karakul pelt in Russia, Germany and other countries. Known as Ubaydullokhoja, he was the father of Faizullah Khoiayev (1896-1938), a famous Bukharian politician.

Indonesia UZBEKISTAN SAMARKAND

Shah-i-Zinda. This necropolis consists of mausoleums and other ritual buildings dating back to between the 9th and 14th, as well as the 19th centuries.

Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum. The Asian conqueror Amir Timur who died in 1405 is buried here. Completed a year before he died, it has been restored several times.

SAMARKAND

Located in the Zerafshan River valley, the city’s roots go back to 1,500 BC.

Close to the border with Tajikistan, with a population of over 300,000, Samarkand is the second largest city in Uzbekistan a er the capital city Tashkent.

Along with Bukhara (and a few other Middle Eastern cities), Samarkand is also one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world.

Just like other great cities in the region, Samarkand was conquered by Alexander the Great in 329 BC when it was known by the Greeks as Maracanda. Alexander ransacked and destroyed much of the city. Fortunately, during the Hellenic period the city recovered and even ourished thanks to the Greeks’ superior masonry and other creative initiatives.

en came the Mongols and the fearless Genghis Khan, followed by another Mongol conqueror named Khan Baraq. It took many decades to recover from these destroyers.

Situated on the Silk Road, Samarkand was described by Marco Polo as a “very large and splendid city” and he also wrote interesting tales about the Christian churches of the city.

Marco Polo described Samarkand as “a very large and splendid city…” Then came Alexander the Great who ransacked and destroyed much of this “splendid city.”

Fast forward to more recent times: Samarkand city came under Russian rule in 1868 and has been under the Soviets for much of the time since then.

anks to its rich history, some interesting architecture can still be seen today. While the city’s main sightseeing areas are a lot more dispersed than those in Khiva and Bukhara, they are still within walking distance for travellers who don’t mind the legwork.

Arguably the most interesting is the

Shah-i-Zinda necropolis (meaning “the living King”) which is an ensemble that includes several mausoleums and other ritual buildings dating from the 9th to 14th, as well as the 19th centuries. e ensemble comprises of the lower, middle and upper levels which are connected by four-arched domed passages. Beyond the upper level is a very interesting graveyard shared by many ethnic groups indicating the city’s cosmopolitan history. e Russian section of the graveyard has some of the most impressive gravestones complete with brilliant stone-carved busts and full gure statues.

Another highlight in the city is the ensemble of three major buildings in a U-shape arrangement: e Ulugbek Madrassa, Tilla-Kari Madrassa, and the Sher Dor Madrassa.

Also, don’t miss the impressive Gur-eAmir Mausoleum, as well as a few smaller sites such as the Rukhobod Mausoleum, Bibi-Khanym Mosque, and the Bibi-Khanym Mausoleum.

One of the best markets in Central Asia is the bustling Siyob Bazaar. Stock up on fresh, herbs and spices, breads, fresh fruits and vegetables. e grapes, peaches and both the yellow- and red gs are locally grown, succulent, and very a ordable.

Samarkand sure has a lot of charm! GR

The Registan was the heart of the ancient city of Samarkand during the times of the Sunni Muslim Timurid Empire (1370–1507). Serving as a public square, it was a place of public executions and is framed by three Madrassa: Ulugbek (left), Tilla-Kari (middle), Sher-Dor (right).

Rukhobod Mausoleum.

Lotte City Hotel Tashkent Palace

Uzbekistan’s Heritage Hotel

Built in 1958 and designated as an Uzbekistan Cultural Heritage Site, the hotel has a classical interior and exterior appearance. Located at the center of Tashkent, we are a 10 minute’s drive from the airport and right next to major buildings such as the Alisher Navoi Opera and Ballet Theatre, the Trading Center, and the Central Bank.

After undergoing an overall renovation in 2013, its classical appearance and sophisticated interior design are more flamboyant than ever. Enjoy our beautiful courtyard and outdoor swimming pool, as well as an outdoor restaurant located on the top floor.

The Lotte City Hotel Tashkent Palace can accommodate up to 300 guests.

Find out about exclusive hotel packages, room promotions, and special discount deals on our website at www.lottehotel.com/tashkentpalace-city.

56, Buyuk Turon Street, Tashkent 100029, Uzbekistan

Contact No. : +998-78-120-58-00

Reservations : +998-78-120-58-00

Fax : +998-78-120-44-01

Facebook : LotteCityHotelTashkent

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Formerly known as Rustam & Zukhra Bed & Breakfast, our refurbished 3-star family-run guesthouse has 16 large rooms with fat-screen TVs, fridges and fresh bathrooms.

We are located in the UNESCO Heritage listed Bukhara Old Town, a 3-minute walk from centrally located Lyabi-Hauz.

As-Salom Hotel

Bukhara, Uzbekistan

The Sher-Dor Madrassa on Registan Square stands right across the Ulugbek Madrassa. Constructed between 1619 and about 1635, its name translates to “possessing lions” or “madrassa with lions”. The building is decorated with bright ornaments of glazed bricks and tiles, forming various mosaics and intricate girikh geometrical patterns. It also includes many quotations from the Quran in Arabic.

Uzbekistan: Samarkand

Samarkands Siyob Bazaar. This bustling bazaar has been the focal point of the city since the days of the Silk Road.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION

Getting There

Typical of Central Asia, there are not many airlines fying into Tashkent. Most fights are by Uzbekistan Airways from European cities such as Rome and Frankfurt, two Russian airlines, Turkish Airlines, China Southern Airlines and a few other obscure airlines. Road travel from neighboring Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and Tajikistan is time consuming.

When to Go

The best time to visit Uzbekistan is during the spring (April to May) and autumn (September to early November) when it is typically warm and dry. While winter can be quite cold, it brings clear and bright skies. Summer (July, August) is extremely hot - well above 30°C and even 40°C.

Dining Out

Across the main cities are ample good restaurants as well as cheap “hole in the wall joints”. Uzbek cuisine is great, in particular the signature rice dish, palov, rich soups, and hearty meat dishes. Mutton is very popular! Markets have lots of succulent fresh fruits to enjoy!

Getting Around Photography

Uzbekistan Airways has a fairly good coverage of the country, but mainly to the cities along the borders with Turkmenistan, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. Train travel is fun as its easy to make lots of new friends on the train. Trains reach all the way west past Khiva and down south to Denau (Tajik border) and Termez (Afghan border). Everywhere else: buses and shared taxis.

While the majority of people in Uzbekistan are Muslim, and rather conservative, most people are happy to have their photos taken. However, do ask permission for portraits, in particular women of all ages and in private areas such as inside homes. Bring along a wide angle lens for the interiors, and exteriors, of the many beautiful buildings.

Where to Stay Safety

While couch-surfng (private stay) is no longer illegal in Uzbekistan, there are some great accommodation options such as staying in renovated centuries-old merchant houses, homestays, and yurts. Budget deals and hostels are hard to fnd, but accommodation is generally good.

Packing

Summers are extremely hot and winters can be bitterly cold, so dress appropriately. Being a Muslim country, dress conservatively and be prepared to wear the right clothes when entering mosques, madrassa, and mausoleums. Pharmacies are well stocked but bring essential items.

While Uzbekistan is generally a safe country, there have been reports of problematic and corrupt border offcials. Thorough searching at land borders are common, and there is no shortage of scammers and over-chargers in this police state. Be careful with photography in sensitive places.

Cost of Travel

While Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan offer the best value for money, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan are generally a bit more expensive, with the reclusive Turkmenistan being by far the most expensive, and most diffcult country to visit in this region. Uzbekistan remains very affordable.

10 Experiences in Uzbekistan

Fruits and more 1

Markets & Bazaars

An old travellers’ belief is that the best way to discover the essence of a country is to explore its local markets and allow yourself to be seduced by the noises, aromas and colours. This is the best place to interact and get to know the people. So true across Uzbekistan.

Some of the markets and bazaars of Uzbekistan have their roots in the times of the Great Silk Road. Visit the old Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent and get lost in the hustle and bustle. In Bukhara visit the Kukluk Bazaar, and in Samarkand the Siob Bazaar. Khiva’s old bazaar is located outside the mud-brick walls of the Itchan Kala’s East Gate. Note the variety of dried and fresh fruits, particularly the big red tomatoes as well as the fresh golden-yellow- and purple fgs.

The People of Uzbekistan 3 Uzbek Food

All over Uzbekistan 4

Khiva’s ancient inner city, the Itchan Kala, is a beehive of activity, surrounded by 10-metre-high plastered brick walls with foundations laid during the 10th century. The current walls were erected in the late 17th century and have often been repaired and partially rebuilt since then.

The Itchan Kala, a World Heritage Site since 1990, is packed with outstanding historic buildings. It contains the Juma Mosque, mausoleums, madrassas and two magnifcent palaces built at the beginning of the 19th century by Alla-Kulli-Khan.

While Uzbekistan is a multinational state, about 80% of the population is Uzbek. Other nationalities include the Tajiks, Kazakhs, Qaraqalpaqs, Kyrgyz, Turkmens, Russians and other Slavic people.

The Uzbek language is the only offcial state language, though many people can also speak Russian and Tajik or Kyrgyz in areas close to their countries of origin.

People are generally friendly and welcoming even though few of them speak English well. Getting to know them is such a pleasure.

With a history of many foreign conquerors and traders along the Great Silk Road, Uzbekistan’s cuisines have been created by foreigners and perfected by the locals.

The basic ingredients of Uzbek dishes are four, meat (usually mutton), fat of a sheep’s tail, vegetables, herbs and spices. Sheep are abundant across Central Asia, so the mutton and lamb dishes are plentiful and delicious. The signature dish of Uzbekistan is palov, typically made with rice, meat, grated carrots, onions and special spices. However, the mutton shashlik (kebab) is king!