Globerovers Magazine, July 2016

GlobeRovers

Feature Article

10 Salar de Uyuni and the southwestern region of Bolivia

In the remote southwest corner of Bolivia, South America, lies the world’s largest salt flats, surrounded by a rugged area known for its extinct volcanoes, snow capped mountain peaks, deserts, rock formations, turquoise lakes, thermal active areas, and wildlife including flamingos, llamas, guanacos and vicuña. Rent a four-wheel drive with driver and head off for a few days to explore this beautiful region.

ARTICLES

Pyramids of Ancient Latin America

Mexico, Central-, and South America bear the hallmarks of ancient, yet sophisticated architecture by the Aztec, Maya and the Inca people. Some are overgrown by the jungle and partly lost.

Armenia’s Christian Monasteries

Armenia’s centuries-old monasteries and churches are crumbling and seem to be forgotten by locals and tourists alike. We discover the charm of a few of these ancient masterpieces.

A Journey through Bangladesh

From Dhaka to Chittagong to the mangroves of the Sundarbans - life in the quaint villages along the rivers and deltas of Bangladesh are laid back and content. Friendly Bangladeshis are the attraction.

Boating on Myanmar’s Ayeyarwady

Get onboard a large passenger boat from Myanmar’s northern Kachin State or the Sagaing Region and oat down this mighty river lined with small villages and happy people.

PHOTO ESSAYS

Havana, Cuba

Painted Monasteries of Romania

Land of the Uyghur People, China

Ville de Québec, Canada

Festivals of Japan’s Tohoku Region

ARTICLES

SPECIAL FEATURES

Sensible Travel Gear

Tasty Traveller’s Treats

CONTRIBUTIONS

Village Life: Hermanus, South Africa

Save the Rhino

Dog Sledding in Quebec

Super Traveller Spotlight

Traveller Spotlight

Book Reviews

TOP LISTS

9 Experiences in Southern Bolivia

10 Ruins of Latin American Empires

6 Brilliant Travel Blogs

13 Travel Tweeps to Follow

IN A FORTHCOMING ISSUE

Morocco

In an upcoming issue of Globerovers Magazine, come join us exploring the famous medina and souk of Marrakech, the tannery and leather-dyeing pits in Fes, the blue city of Chefchaouen, the High Atlas Mountains, deserts, the coastline villages and towns of Essaouira, El Jadida, Casablanca, Rabat, Tangier and Asilah. Awesome!

Cacti on Isla de Pescado, Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia.

ON THE COVER: Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

Globerovers Magazine

currently is a biannual magazine, available in digital and printed formats. We focus on bringing to the intrepid traveller exciting destinations and inspiring photography from around the globe.

Published in Hong Kong

Printed in U.S.A.

WHO WE ARE:

Editor-in-Chief - Peter Steyn

Editorial Consultant - Tsui Chi Ho

Graphic Designer - Peter Steyn

Photographer & Writer - Peter Steyn

Proofreader - Janet-Lynn Vorster

Advertising - Lizzy Chitlom

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CONTACT US: editor@globerovers.com

Editor‛s Message

“Not all those who wander are lost.” J.R.R. Tolkien John Tolken (3 Jan 1892 – 2 Sep 1973), an English writer, poet, philologist, university professor, and author of ‘The Hobbit’, and ‘Lord of the Rings’.

Dear Readers,

In this seventh issue of Globerovers Magazine, we are pleased to bring you a variety of exciting destinations and other reading enjoyment.

e feature destination is the incredible Salar de Uyuni of southern Bolivia. As one of the most remote areas of South America, it is known for its large salt ats, fringed by stunning mountain scenery and rock formations; wildlife including amingos and llamas; turquoise lakes; and volcanic active areas with hot springs, fumaroles and bubbling mud pots. Come along and enjoy Bolivia.

Other articles focus on Armenia’s ancient monasteries and churches; temple ruins of Latin America; life along the great rivers and deltas of Bangladesh; and a boat trip down Myanmar’s mighty Ayeyarwady River.

We have Photo Essays of Havana, Cuba; the painted monasteries of Romania; China’s Uyghur people; Quebec City; and Japan’s Tohoku festivals.

A special thank you to our contributors who we introduce on the next page. A very special word of thanks to Janet-Lynn Vorster, our Contributor and Proofreader, for her meticulous work.

Please visit our Pinterest, Twitter, and Facebook pages, and www.globerovers-magazine.com. For easy access, scan the QR Codes on page 7.

Send your feedback to editor@globerovers.com.

Globerovers travels so you can see the world!

Peter Steyn

Editor-in-Chief and Publisher

All rights reserved. Reproduction of any part of this magazine is strictly prohibited without the prior written approval of the publisher. The publisher does not take responsibility for any potential inaccurate information herein.

THE FRONT COVER

Salar de Uyuni (or Salar de Tunupa), located in southwest Bolivia, north of the Chile border, is regarded as the world’s largest salt flats at 10,582 square km. Located at 3,656 m above sea level, it is covered with a solid salt crust varying in thickness between just a few centimetres to a few metres. Rich in lithium it faces massive mining.

CONTRIBUTORS

A very special thank you to our awesome contributors to this issue. Without you, Globerovers Magazine just won’t be the same! Thanks!

Janet-Lynn Vorster, Cape Town, South Africa (pages 80-91)

Janet is a numerologist and hypnotherapist by profession, and journalist and photographer by hobby. She is the proud mother of three grown children and granny to three grandchildren. Thanks to Janet for being the Chief Text Editor of Globerovers Magazine and for her excellent article “Village Life: Hermanus, South Africa”.

Katherine Johnston, London, England (pages 164-165)

Katherine is Save the Rhino International’s Communications Manager. She read Modern History and English at Oxford, before completing an MA at London’s School of Oriental and African Studies. She is a consultant to the Lynx UK Trust and Trustee of ResonanceFM. Katherine is doing great work to help save our rhinos.

Jonathan Meister, Toronto, Canada (pages 174-175)

Jonathan is a Canadian based writer who has travelled extensively, particularly in Canada. His areas of interest are ecology and history and he makes a point of including these elements in his writing. He is also immersed in the sports medicine world as a therapist and has extensively contributed in that domain as a lecturer and author.

Shane Dallas, Dubai, UAE (pages 196-197)

Shane is an avid adventurer, travel photographer, Social Media specialist, radio personality and keynote speaker who inspires people to take the road less travelled. Shane loves visiting places that other people rarely visit such as Afghanistan, North Korea, Somaliland, Ethiopia, Kurdistan, Syria, Tajikistan, and Yemen.

Linda Ballou, Los Angeles, CA, USA (pages 198-199)

Adventure travel writer, Linda Ballou, has rafted, kayaked and horseback ridden though pristine wilderness areas around the globe. Her collection of travel essays, Lost Angel Walkabout, is flled with thrills, chills, giggles, and lets you experience the great outdoors without getting altitude sickness or tipping your canoe. www.LindaBallouAuthor.com.

Chris Wong, Hong Kong (page 198)

Chris is a freelance radio host and travel writer based in Hong Kong. He always backpacks solo, because he believes that travel is all about personal growth and making new friends. To Chris it is not important how many countries he visited, but rather the in-depth experiences he so cherishes.

Tony Hastie, Kilwinning, Scotland (page 200)

Having worked in the building industry for 25 years, Tony never harboured any ambitions to write. Then he did something that people generally fnd a little more interesting than joinery, he went travelling. Blog transformed to book and Bolivia tried to kill us was born...

Additional photo credits: Janet Joosten, Sharon, Canada: Photograph of Chichén Itzá temple on page 77.

The Globerovers‛ World

Globerovers Magazine was created by Peter Steyn, an avid explorer who is constantly in search of the edge of the world. He will always hike the extra mile or ten to get as far off the beaten track as he can. It is his mission to discover and present the most exciting destinations for intrepid travellers. He has visited 116 countries (including territories: Greenland, Hong Kong, and Macau) and is poised to explore Africa in the coming months. Peter’s home base is wherever he lays down his cameras.

Afghanistan

Albania

Andorra

Argentina

Armenia

Australia

Austria

Azerbaijan

Bahrain

Bangladesh

Belarus

Belgium

Belize

Bolivia

Bosnia-Herzegovina

Brazil

Brunei

Bulgaria

Cambodia

Canada

Chile

China

Colombia

Costa Rica

Croatia

Cuba

Czech Rep.

Denmark

Ecuador

Egypt

El Salvador

Estonia

Finland

France

Georgia

Germany

Greece

Greenland

Guatemala

Honduras

Hong Kong

Hungary

Iceland

India

Indonesia

Iran

Ireland

Israel

Italy

Japan

Jordan

Kazakhstan

Kyrgyzstan

Laos

Latvia

Lebanon

Liechtenstein

Lithuania

Luxembourg

Macau

Malaysia Maldives

Malta

Mauritius

Mexico

Moldova

Monaco

Montenegro

Morocco

Myanmar / Burma

Namibia

Nepal

Netherlands

New Zealand

Nicaragua

Norway

Oman

Pakistan

Panama

Papua New Guinea

Paraguay

Peru

Philippines

Poland

Portugal

Romania

Russia

San Marino

Serbia

Singapore

Slovakia

Slovenia

South Africa

South Korea

Spain

Sri Lanka

Swaziland

Sweden

Switzerland

Syria

Taiwan

Tajikistan

Thailand

Turkey

Ukraine

United Arab Emirates

United Kingdom

United States

Uruguay

Uzbekistan

Vanuatu

Vatican

Vietnam

Yemen

Zambia

Zimbabwe

116 and counting...

BANGLADESH Page 128

DESTINATIONS IN THIS ISSUE

Big. No it is huge! In fact, Salar de Uyni in southwestern Bolivia is the world’s largest salt ats measuring more than 10,500 square km. Located at an altitude of 3,656 m above sea level in the Daniel Campos Province, this region is remote, unique, and inhospitable.

e best way to travel this area is to nd a few buddies and rent a 4x4 vehicle with

its driver. e tricky part of the journey is nding the right vehicle and the right driver. It is not unheard of to end up with a grumpy driver who has no interest in his passengers, and even of a driver who abandons his passengers and escapes over the horizon, with the vehicle of course! Choose wisely. Ask many questions and bargain to get a fair deal.

A good route is to start in the town of Uyuni where you should nd the vehicles

and drivers, and then head straight for the salar where you will stop at the salt hotel, Isla del Pescado ( sh island), Isla Incahuasi, and drive over miles and miles of at salt roads without any clear tracks. Once you exit the salt ats to the south, you will come across many lakes, such Lago Cañapa, Lago Honda, Lago Colorada, and many more beautiful turquoise lakes, each with their ock of amingos - James’s amingo, Chilean amingo, and the Andean  amingo.

Salar de Uyuni and the southwestern region of Bolivia

A remote region in the southwest corner of Bolivia known for the world‛s largest salt flats, flamingos, extinct volcanoes, deserts, and turquoise lakes.

Early November is breeding time for the amingos and they come in large numbers to feed on the pinkish coloured algae.

e area is known for its scenery with dormant volcanoes, turquoise lakes, weird rock formations, and its volcanic active areas with erce fumaroles and boiling mud pots. While the salar is rather void of any noticeable life other than the odd tourist Landrover

and the giant cacti on Isla del Pescado and Isla Incahuasi, the area o the salar has wildlife in abundance, if you have patience to search, and wait.

e area is known to have about 80 bird species, including the amingos, horned coot, Andean goose, and the Andean hillstar. Look out for the cute light-brown Andean fox, and the colonies of adorable rabbit-like viscachas which breed and live among the rocky outcrops.

Laguna Colorada lies at the southern edge of southern Bolivia, just to the north of the Eduardo Abaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve, which is on the border with Chile. The lake is vibrantly red with islands of white borax. Algae and sediments give Laguna Colorada its red color. Flamingos frequent its waters to feed on the red algae.

SALT FLATS

Measuring more than 10,500 square km, Salar de Uyuni in southwestern Bolivia is the world’s largest salt ats. It is located at an altitude of 3,656 m above sea level, although it is not totally at. e di erence between the higher area and the lower area is about 77 cm.

It really is salt. Common table salt. For many years the local indigenous Aymara people have been scraping the salt from the crust which varies from a few centimetres in thickness to several metres. Estimates are that at some places the salt is about 10 m thick. Rich in the much sought chemical element, lithium, it is threatened by potential large scale mining.

VOLCANIC LAKES

e southwestern edge of Bolivia comprises of the provinces of Nor Lipez and Sud Lipez. Collectively referred to as Mancomunidad de Los Lípez, it includes the Eduardo Abaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve. With a long history of violent volcanic activity, much of the area still bears the evidence of owing volcanic lava. Conical shaped mountain peaks and volcanic crater-lakes dot the landscape.

In the far south, immediately north of the Eduardo Abaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve, is Laguna Colorada which lies at an altitude of at 4,278 m. It is 346 km southwest of town of Uyuni. e lake is vibrantly red with a few islands of white

HIGHLIGHTS of SOUTHWEST BOLIVIA

Salar de Uyuni

The vast salt lake is unquestionably the highlight of southwestern Bolivia. Whether you visit during the wet season or the dry season, it is an incredible sight to see a fat surface of salt stretching almost as far as the eye can see. Go ahead, taste the salt. Run around like a school boy and don’t forget the funny photos!

Conical Shaped Extinct Volcanoes

The landscape is dotted with many extinct volcanoes, many of which are symmetrical cone-shaped. Take many photos and even climb them but watch out for the snow caps and the depleting oxygen supply as you ascend.

Thermal Active Areas with Hot Springs

Where there are extinct volcanoes, there is often still active thermal activity such as whooshing fumaroles, hot bubbling mud pots, and hot springs. Enjoy the hot springs on cold days but don’t fall into the mud pots.

Wildlife

The famingos are the main attraction, with llamas, alpacas, and vicuñas grazing peacefully along the shores of the lakes create lovely photo opportunities. There are about 80 bird species, foxes, and rabbit-like viscachas.

Deserts and Rock Formations

Red desert sand can be found all over the area. Strong winds blowing sand against the rocks over many years have sculpted the rock into creative fgures. The most famous is Árbol de Piedra (stone tree).

Turquoise Volcanic Lakes

The lakes attract wildlife such as the llamas, alpacas, vicuñas and thousands of famingos. The water is teaming with algae and other micro organisms but void of larger aquatic life due to the chemical composition of the waters which also prevents most lakes from freezing over. Some have very high arsenic concentrations.

The Salt Hotels

Stop by at a hotel almost entirely built of blocks of salt cut from the crust. You may want to stay for the night.

The Train Cemetery

Just 3 km outside of Uyuni are a few rusty old steam trains. They make great photos against the blue sky.

borax. Red algae and other natural sediments give Laguna Colorada its red colour which attracts the amingos to feed on the red algae.

Further south, almost at the border with Chile, is the sparkling jade Laguna Verde at 4,400 m above sea level. As it is laden with arsenic, it is most likely totally lifeless. Nearby, at the foot of the highly symmetrical stratovolcano, Volcán Licancabur (5,916 m), lies Laguna Blanca. e crater lake on the summit of Licancabur is said to be the world’s highest lake.

Up north, along the road to San Juan, is a chain of ve very picturesque lakes, including Lagunas Hedionda and Chiar Khota. Further on is Volcán Ollagüe and Salar de Chiguana. Other beautiful lakes are Lago Cañapa and Lago Honda. Flamingos love to congregate in this area.

WILDLIFE

e most impressive wildlife in this part of the world are the amingos. Many amingos. James’s amingo, Chilean amingo, and the Andean  amingo. Early November is breeding time for the amingos and they come in large numbers to feed on the pinkish coloured algae.

e amingos have likely never been hunted and don’t seem to be too scared of

a human presence, which means you can sneak up fairly close to them before they y away. It’s truly an incredible sight to see hundreds, if not thousands, of these pinkish-red birds grazing in the shallow lakes with white borax edges and reddish islands. e only thing more beautiful, is when they en masse take to ight right in front of your very eyes.

Among the other 80 bird species reported in the area, are the horned coot, Andean goose, and the Andean hillstar. Some llamas, alpacas, and vicuñas graze at the edges of the lakes. You may also see the light brown Andean fox, and it is hard to miss the colonies of adorable rabbit-like viscachas which breed and live among the rocky outcrops.

MOUNTAINS

e area is dotted with extinct volcanoes, although most volcanoes stretch up along the Chilean side of the border. ese include Volcan Ollague, Cerro Del Azufre, Sairecabur, and others. On the Bolivian side are Uturuncu and Licancabur.

At times, the summits of many of the volcanoes are covered in snow. A beautiful sight indeed! Climbing the mountains is a popular activity but be prepared for oxygen shortages and cold weather.

DESERT AND ROCKS

All over the region are patches of desert with bright reddish desert sand. Look out for the large rock formations strewn about in the sand. Formed by volcanic activity many years ago, they have been beautifully sculpted by the strong winds and the blowing sand. e most famous rock, located to the north of Laguna Colorada in the Pampas de Siloli area, is the Arbol de Piedra, a large rock sculpted by the wind into the shape of a tree. Please do not try to climb it, as it will fall over!

TRAIN CEMETERY

It’s not every day that you see a train cemetery in the middle of nowhere! About 3 km outside the town of Uyuni is the rather bizarre scenery of rusted old trains, still on their rusty tracks.

A very long time ago, Uyuni used to be the hub for trains moving minerals to the Paci c Ocean ports of Chile. e rail lines were built by the British from 1888 and completed in 1892. However, the local Aymara indigenous Indians were not impressed with the trains and frequently sabotaged the tracks. When the mining companies collapsed during WWII, the trains were moved outside town and le to die a rusty death!

Vast Salt Flats

Salar de Uyuni (Uyuni Salt Flats) is part of the Altiplano high plateau of Bolivia, located on the South America continent. e plateau was formed during the upli that also created the Andes mountains. e area is known for its fresh and salt water lakes surrounded by mountains

with no drainage outlet. As a result, some 40,000 years ago, the area was covered by over 150 m of water. It’s been claimed that the lake was formed as a result of the transformations between several prehistoric lakes. Over the years the lake started to dry up. e last recorded lake with a

substantial amount of water was around 12,000 years ago.

It has been a vast and dry salt at for quite some time. However, during the rainy season which is roughly from January to April, the local rainfall as well as over ows

The vast salt fats of Uyuni is a sight never be forgotten. In the wettest month of January, the fats are fooded and become a large lake with beautiful refections.

from Lake Titicaca in northern Bolivia at the border with Peru, oods much of Salar Uyuni.

So, while in dry season it is nothing but a massive, yet very impressive dry salt at, during the rainy season, particularly in January, it transforms into a vast waterlled lake. is temporary lake is only a few centimetres deep but the mirror reections of the water on the salt makes for some spectacular photos. is is also the time when the roads o the salt get really muddy and di cult to navigate.

From near and afar, the vast salt ats seem totally at. However, some crazy scientists have crisscrossed the salt with SUV’s sporting GPS antennas mounted to the roofs. ey came to the conclusion that the ats did not exactly live up to their name. e highest elevated area is about 50 km away from the lowest area, and have a di erence in elevation of 77 cm.   eir theory explains that the highs and lows correspond to the local gravity eld and the dissolving of the salt by rainwater which follows the curvature of the earth. Go gure!

Another theory is that the surface of the salt rises and falls to re ect the subsurface density variations. Whatever the correct theory is, this is one of the largest at surfaces on our planet, and as a result it is being used to calibrate distance measurement devices aboard satellites.

e salt crust measures in thickness between just a few centimetres to a few metres. Containing 50% to 70% of the world’s highly prized chemical element lithium (a so , silver-white metal used in lithium batteries), the area has been earmarked for massive mining operations. In addition to lithium, large amounts of sodium, potassium, and magnesium are also present.

While the Bolivian government has long prevented foreign companies from possibly exploiting the area’s rich mining resources, in 2013 Bolivian President Evo Morales opened a $19 million lithiumproduction plant and told reporters that more than 60 percent of the pro ts from the lithium mining will stay within the country. It wasn’t long before the local mining companies realised that their lack of sophisticated equipment could not deliver the massive projected pro ts. So, they courted engineering rms from Germany and Switzerland.

ere is much fear among the local indigenous Aymara people who have been harvesting the common table salt for ages, that mining on a large scale will seriously harm the area’s fragile ecosystem. Fortunately no large scale mining has been launched yet, but who knows how it will change with the increasing demand for lithium by the growing demand for electric cars and mobile devices.

It is truly a wonderful experience just to gaze over the wide stretches of almost pure white salt.

Exit the trip to the east via Tupiza and then south on a stunning route to Argentina. Alternatively exit to the south across the border of Chile to San Pedro de Atacama.

Arrange a guide with 4WD vehicle in good condition in Uyuni or Tupiza for a 4 to 6 day trip to the Chile border.

A Cacti Fish Island

Within Uyuni Salt Lake are several islands. ey are the summits of pre-historic volcanoes from the days when this was still a massive and deep lake. Each island is home to its own fragile ecosystem.

Among the most prominent islands is Isla Incahuasi (3,687 m), a hilly and rocky outcrop. Isla is the Spanish word for “island”, while Inca refers to the Indian “Inca” tribe, and huasi is derived from the Quechualanguage word “wasi” which means a

house. However, a more apt name is Cactus Island as the almost 25 hectares’ outcrop is covered in tall, slow-growing, columnar, gigantic cacti, Echinopsis atacamensis

Isla Incahuasi is also home to colonies of rabbit-like long-tailed rodents called viscachas. You will also nd fragile coral-like structures, fossils and algae.

A neighbouring island, Isla del Pescado

(Fish Island) at 3,726 m, is the largest of these islands. It derives its name from its ellipsoid shape when viewed from the east or west. is island is also home to the viscachas, and cacti, some of which can measure more than 10 m in height, referred to as “thousand-year-old giant cacti”.

On the sides of the islands, terraces mark the level of ancient lakes, and in some places, fossilised algae can be seen covering the rocks.

Laguna Colorada at the southern edge of southern Bolivia is vibrantly red with islands of white borax.

Laguna Verde lies at 4,400 m above sea level. As it is laden with arsenic, its waters are most likely totally lifeless.

Volcanos and Rocks

Southwestern Bolivia sits on the Altiplano tectonic plate which has some of the world’s highest volcanoes. Most volcanoes are located along the border with Chile which is part of the so-called “ring of re”.

e volcanoes run from Chile in the south to Peru in the north.

While most of the volcanoes here are not extremely active, they continuously show that they are more alive than dormant.

Volcan Uturuncu in the south, east of the Chilean border, has recently been described as a new super volcano in the making.

e area is also known for its beautiful rock formations. Some are located on the islands inside Salar de Uyuni, while others are in the deserts.

To the north of Laguna Colorada, in the

Pampas de Siloli, is the Arbol de Piedra, a large rock sculpted by the wind into the shape of a tree. Over many years of strong winds across the desert, the sand has sculpted the rocks into beautiful formations. e Siloli desert is considered a part of the Atacama Desert and is one of the most arid in the world, due to low precipitation that occurs in the area. e conical shaped extinct volcanoes, red desert, and sculpted rocks all make beautiful scenery.

Arbol de Piedra, a large rock sculpted by the wind into the shape of a tree.

Thermal Activity

Nothing as good as soaking in hot springs with nothing but amingos and dormant volcanoes around you! Oh, and the odd llama and alpaca grazing nearby along the shores of the turquoise lake. Feel free to do it the natural way. ere is probably nobody nearby, except a friend, if you brought your own.

e hot springs here are unmarked without any signage indicating where to swim. Walk along the lake, watch out for spurts of hot water, until you nd a nice clean and warm pool. Slip o the jeans and pop right in. Early in the mornings, almost year round, its cold to very cold. But, once you are in the hot water, just lay back and enjoy the feeling and the stunning scenery around you. e amingos, the llamas, alpacas, and snow-capped conical shaped dormant volcanoes. Life is good!

Nearby, in the northwest corner of Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve, to the south of Laguna Colorada, is one of the highlights. Sol de Mañana is an area of geothermal activity with boiling mud pots and fumaroles.

will discover your so -cooked body in the soup.

e fumaroles emit highly pressurised steam with a strong hissing sound. Some of them are strong enough to shoot up to about 50 m high.

In addition to the fumaroles and the boiling mud pots, there are also mud lakes and steam pools. ere are no geysers which intermittently discharge boiling

water, ejected turbulently and accompanied by steam.

e thermal active area extends over about 10 square km so spend an hour or two to walking around and appreciating our active planet.

It is not clear if the government will go ahead with a planned geothermal electricity-generating project for this area, which will destroy its natural beauty.

However, if you can stand the stench, and the thought that should you slip into a boiling mud pot you will instantly become part of the soup, then you should enjoy the experience.

is is raw nature at its best.

ere is no visitor’s centre, no safety railings, or even directions. Should you arrive alone, then you will be alone. Do not fall into a mud pot because nobody will come to your rescue. e next tourist to arrive

The pungent smell of sulphur combined with the 4,849 m altitude, can make some people feel dizzy and sick.

Sol de Mañana is an area of geothermal activity with boiling mud pots and fumaroles.

Andean famingos along the shores of Laguna Colorada

Llamas and Flamingos

Another highlight of South America’s Altiplano Plateau is the amingos. James’s (or Puna) amingo, Chilean amingo, and the Andean  amingo.

Keep an eye out for the Andean amingo with its pale pink body with brighter upper parts. Living exclusively around South America’s Andes mountains, it is one of the rarest amingos in the world.

Its bill is black and pale yellow with yellow legs.

e Andean and James’s amingos are the only amingo species that have threetoed feet without a hallux, or hind toe.

For a long time the James’s amingo was presumed extinct. However, in 1909 a nesting colony was discovered at Laguna

Colorada. e amingos of the Altiplano sure know how to elude predators. Non- ying predators would have to defy the seemingly bottomless saline mud to get to an egg or a tasty chick while ying predators would face very thin air and the intense and relentless winds. True survivors!

Early November is breeding time for the amingos and they come in large numbers to feed on the pinkish coloured algae.

ey have likely never been hunted so most don’t seem to care much about human presence.

It’s truly an incredible sight to see hundreds of amingos grazing in the shallow lakes. e only thing more beautiful, is when they en masse take to ight right in front of your very eyes. Most of the lakes at some point have a ock of amingos present. However, some lakes seem to be more popular, such as Laguna Hedionda, Laguna Cañapa, Laguna Colorada and Laguna Verde, near Volcan Licancabur.

With durable, rock-hard salt in abundance, no wonder you can stay in a hotel built with salt carved from the crust.

e rst salt hotel, Hotel de Sal Playa Blanca, was built in 1993 almost in the middle of Salar de Uyuni. Consisting of 15 bedrooms, a dining room, living room, bar, common bathroom and no showers, it became popular. Due to sanitation diculties and a threat to the fragile environment it was forced to dismantle.

en in 2007 a new hotel, Palacio de Sal, was built at the eastern edge of the salt at, just 25 km from Uyuni town. Constructed with about a million blocks of salt, cut into 35 cm pieces, almost the entire building, including the furniture and sculptures were completed within a short time. e sanitary system now complies with strict government regulations.

Salar de Uyuni these days boasts more than one salt hotel. Check out Hotel de Sal Luna Salada to the northwest of Uyuni town, as well as Hotel de Sal Cristal Samaña a few kilometres south.

If you stay here, follow the house-rules of “No Licking of the walls”, to prevent their degradation.

The Salt Hotel

The Train Cemetery

It is not every day that you see a train cemetery in the middle of nowhere! About 3 km outside the town of Uyuni is the rather bizarre scenery of rusted old trains, still on their rusty tracks.

e “antique train cemetery“ (“Cementerio de trenes” in Spanish) has an interesting history.

A very long time ago, Uyuni used to be

the hub for trains moving minerals to the Paci c Ocean ports of Chile.

e rail lines were built by the British from 1888 and completed in 1892. However, the local Aymara indigenous Indians were not impressed with the trains and frequently sabotaged the tracks.

When the mining companies collapsed during WWII, the trains were moved out-

side town and le to die a rusty death!

e train cars and locomotives date back to the early 20th century and are being slowly eroded by strong salty winds blowing relentlessly.

ere are no restrictions or entrance fees, so climb around and do your yoga tricks, but be careful and don’t get cut by rusty or fallen metals.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION

Getting There

There are three main entry points to Salar de Uyuni. The town of Uyuni is the most popular starting point, but also consider Tupizq in the east or San Pedro de Atacama in the south on the Chile side. From Argentina an infrequent train runs to Uyuni. However, the route is very scenic so consider a 4x4 with driver.

When to Go

Dry season (May to December) is a great time to visit. May to September can be very cold, particularly at night. Wet season (January to March) is great for refections on the water but travel areas may be very restricted.

Dining Out

Once you have left the town of entry the only dining out will be at the basic guest houses. Normally breakfast and dinner are included in the package tour. Food is basic but at the end of the days you will eat anything.

Getting Around Location

Once you have your vehicle and driver booked, just stay with them and you are all set. No need for any additional transportation other than hiking boots. If you start in the town of Uyuni, you can end in the far south and then take a bus to San Pedro de Atacama. From here go to Salta in Argentina, or travel through Chile.

Salar de Uyuni is located in southwestern Boliva. Depending on the entry point where you rent the vehicle and driver, you may be coming from Argentina or Chile in the south, or from Peru in the north via places such as La Paz, Sucre, or Potosi. Bolivia is one of the most incredible countries in the world! Undeniably!

Where to Stay Packing

Best is to leave accommodation decisions and bookings up to your driver but do make sure you discuss the sleeping options. Accommodation is mostly basic in large rooms with several beds.

Train Journeys

The only trains in this area no longer accept passengers. If you are a train lover, go and pay your respects at the train cemetery outside Uyuni town. Currently a passenger train runs north and south from Uyuni.

Year round the nights can get quite cool. From around May to September, daytime temperatures can be cold and at night, very cold. Come with a good sleeping bag and thermal underwear.

Cost of Travel

Its best to shop around at the town of entry (Uyuni, Tupizq, or San Pedro de Atacama). Bargain hard but do check the details such as accommodation, meals, vehicle, route, entry / exit points, and group size.

9 traveller experiences southern Bolivia in

1

SALAR DE UYUNI

Unquestionably the highlight of the region is the vast salt fats near the town of Uyuni. You will really stand in awe when, as far as the eye can see, it is salt. Edible salt as in common table salt.

You can drive for miles on end, with no road but faint tracks from the previous vehicle crossing. This area measures more than 10,500 square km which makes it the world’s largest salt fats. Located at an altitude of 3,656 m above sea level, you may even get dizzy if you run around the fat surface. Be here during the wet season and the entire area becomes a vast lake. A shallow salty lake with beautiful refections which makes for some great photos!

2 3

TURQUOISE LAGOONS LLAMAS & FLAMINGOS

We all get mesmerised with the word “turquoise”. In particular when we are thinking of turquoise lakes. In this part of the world there are so many turquoise lakes that after a few days you may be thinking its just another turquoise lake around the next volcano. But, its not.

Seems like every turquoise lake has something special to it. Whether its a different backdrop of conical shaped volcanoes, or a different fock of famingos, or the collection of llama, alpacas, and vicuñas grazing along the edges of the lake - every turquoise lake is different, and seemingly more brilliant and unique than the previous ones you explored.

Some lakes have a vibrant reddish glow to them encircled by islands and fringes covered in white borax. Brilliant!

If you are coming for the famingos, llamas, alpacas, and the shy vicuñas, you won’t be disappointed.

The most impressive wildlife in this part of the world are the famingos. James’s famingo, Chilean famingo, and the Andean famingo. Early November is breeding time for the famingos and they come in large numbers to feed on the pinkish coloured algae.

Bring along your long telephoto lens for close-ups, though if you are stealthy, you could get quite close to these birds as they are not too fearful of humans. Should they take to fight en masse, and they will, be ready with your high-speed shutter to capture the most memorable in-fight motions.

ÁRBOL DE PIEDRA ROCK FORMATION

SOL DE MANANA THERMAL AREA

VOLCANIC MOUNTAINS

South America’s Altiplano plateau is surpassed in area and altitude only by that of Tibet. It is a harsh and inhospitable environment with intense, and relentless winds.

Over millennia, strong sand-laden winds have eroded the leftover landscape from pre-historic volcanic eruptions. What we see today are beautifully sculpted rock formations which seem to be carefully carved by skillful artists. View them from all angles, close-up, and be amazed what blowing sand can create.

You have been to Yellowstone National Park in the U.S. state of Wyoming. You have been to Rotorua in New Zealand. Iceland. Sicily. Hawaii. Costa Rica. You have done all the great thermal active areas. If you haven’t done Sol de Mañana in Bolivia’s Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve, then you should!

You most likely will fnd yourself with no other tourists, no safety railings, no cafes or visitor centre. This place is raw, natural, dangerous, and an adrenaline rush. You’ll get dizzy!

ISLA DE PESCADO (Fish Island) SALT HOTELS

Southwestern Bolivia sits on the Altiplano tectonic plate which has some of the world’s highest volcanoes. Most volcanoes are located along the border with Chile which is part of the so-called “ring of fre”. The volcanoes run down from Chile in the south to Peru to the north.

While most of the volcanoes here are not extremely active, they continuously show that they are more alive than dormant. Depending on the time of the year, many of the peaks are covered in snow.

TRAIN CEMETERY

As you gaze over the vast salt lake, you will see some rocky islands. Quite a few of them. These are the summits of prehistoric volcanoes which once rose from a deep and massive lake, which now is a dry salt fat.

The most prominent islands are Isla Incahuasi (3,687 m) and neighbouring Isla del Pescado (Fish Island) at 3,726 m. The islands are covered in slow-growing columnar gigantic cacti, some of which are over 10 m tall. Watch out for colonies of rabbit-like long-tailed rodents called viscachas.

Check your travel-achievement list. Have you ever slept in a salt hotel? A hotel almost entirely built from blocks of salt. The walls, the furniture, the sculptures, all made of salt. Locally.

“Don’t lick the walls” reads a sign in your bedroom. “It degrades our hotel”.

The frst hotel was built in 1993 smack in the middle of the salt fats but with no proper sanitary disposal, it was forced to dismantle a few years later. Now, built on the edge, new hotels are ready to take lots of your money!

And, how many train cemeteries have you ever visited? This could be your frst and you will fnd it a moving experience. A sad occasion indeed, but only if you are a true train lover.

In the middle of nowhere, with the vast Salar de Uyni as the backdrop, several rusty steam locomotives with their cars, dating from the early 20th century, are lined up on an equally rusty steel track. “How did they get here?” you may ask out loud. As nobody is around to answer, better stop wondering and just take another look.

What is Shark Finning?

Finning is the process of cutting o the ns of a shark and discarding the body at sea. is wasteful and o en cruel practice contradicts all principles of sustainable shark sheries management and conservation.

Why are Sharks Vulnerable to Exploitation?

e life history of sharks is typical of top predators, and completely di erent to most commercial sh, which mature early and produce vast numbers of tiny eggs. In comparison, most sharks grow slowly, mature late and give birth to a few large pups a er a long gestation period. Consequently, shark populations decline rapidly when targeted by sheries and recover slowly, if at all. Shark populations may continue to decline, potentially to unviable levels with species becoming regionally extinct. ere are now 126 species of chondrichthyan sh listed in a reat category on the IUCN’s Red List, with a further 107 species listed as Near reatened.

Why Oppose Shark Finning?

• Although some sharks are killed before nning (a live shark represents a danger on board), many are still alive when their ns are cut o , and are thrown back into the sea alive to die.

• Finning is hugely wasteful - wet ns typically represent less than 5% of a shark’s body weight and discarded carcasses could provide a valuable protein source, particularly in developing countries.

• e environmental impact of removing large numbers of sharks from ocean ecosystems is hugely complex and unpredictable. Most sharks are top predators and scientists believe sharks play a key role in marine ecosystems by keeping their prey populations in check. Removing this control is likely to have a damaging e ect on marine ecosystems.

• Today many shark populations are experiencing a downward spiral of reduced populations due to increasing shing pressure and increasing prices. Over the last 15 years some Atlantic shark populations have declined by up to 90%. However due to the covert nature of the n trade ns originating from illegal, unreported or unregulated (IUU) sheries means that we have likely underestimated the e ect on global shark populations.

Finning Facts

• Hong Kong is the world’s shark n trading centre, accounting for 50-80% of ns traded worldwide. Currently the EU supplies 27% of all ns imported into Hong Kong.

• Sharks’ life history makes them vulnerable to exploitation – for example, Basking Sharks take 15-20 years to mature, have a 2-3 year gestation period and produce only 4–6 pups.

• Wet ns typically represent < 5% of a shark’s body weight.

• Some Atlantic shark populations have declined by up to 90% in the last 15 years.

• Sets of ns can sell for more than US$700/kg, with Hammerhead Shark ns among the most valuable by weight.

• A single Whale Shark pectoral n can sell for up to US$15,000.

• Global trade in shark ns is increasing, and the market for shark n soup is estimated to be growing by 5% per year.

• e EU’s n to carcass ratio is among the weakest in the world.

• A third of European sharks, and a total of 126 species of chondrichthyan sh are listed under a reat category on the IUCN Red List, with a further 107 species Near reatened.

Find out more at www.sharktrust.org/ nning

SOURCE: http://www.stopshark nning.net/docs/StopSharkFinningCampaignFactsheet.pdf

Photo Essay C U B A

Cuba’s capital, Havana, is a city with 2.1 million inhabitants. Founded by the Spanish in the 16th century, the modern-day city is three cities in one: La Habana Vieja, El Vedado, and the newer suburban districts. The old part of the city, La Habana Vieja, was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982 and is most famous for its narrow alleys, architecture, and monuments. Most international tourists come here to see the old buildings and many American vintage cars pre-dating the 1960 trade embargo. Since US President Barack Obama announced the reestablishment of diplomatic relations with Cuba on December 17, 2014, Cubans have been preparing for a massive infux of American tourists. Fortunately, Globerovers Magazine made it to Cuba before the infux of the masses, and even before Obama’s entourage arrived. We can only expect that Havana is slated for a huge transformation.

Fidel Castro & Che Guevara’s

Havana l Cuba

Frozen

Photo Essay l Cuba

Views of La Habana Vieja from Catedral de San Cristóba. In the foreground is Plaza de la Catedral. This area was originally a swamp but was then drained and used as a naval dockyard. The construction of Catedral de San Cristóba (on the right side) was started in 1748 by the Jesuits. They did not see the completion of the building in 1777 because King Carlos III of Spain expelled them from Cuba in 1767. According to legend, the remains of Christopher Columbus were kept here before being retuned to Spain in 1898.

The full name of the Cathedral is “The Cathedral of the Virgin Mary of the Immaculate Conception”. It was built in a Baroque style from blocks of coral cut from the ocean foor of the Gulf of Mexico. Look closely and see marine fossils in the facade.