JEWELRY Animal Kingdom CRAFTS Chez Anita Porchet
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presents the 1966 Blue Moon GMT ME No 27 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2019
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EDITORIAL AUTUMN 2019
T
he prix Gaïa is awarded each year by the Musée international d’horlogerie (MIH) in recognition of extraordinary careers within the field of watchmaking, its art,
and its culture. The 2019 edition of the Prix Gaïa, the 25th, will take place at
club 44 in La Chau-de-Fonds at 6.30 pm on Thursday 19th of September and is se to be remarkable in more ways than one with no doubt.
Firstly, it will pay tribute to the three very experienced talents from the world of
watchmaking. Then, it will see the award of first ever Horizon Gaïa grant, intended to promote new talent working in the areas covered by the Prize.
Lastly, it will provide the setting of the unveiling of the prototype the brand new watch
created by the MIH. subscriptions for the MIH Gaïa watch will officially open at the end of the ceremony.
This year, the Prix Gaïa jury, comprising 15 figures active in the watchmaking field, nominated the following:
SUZANNE ROHR - winner in the Craftsmanship- Creation category for her pioneering role
in and her mastery of the art of enameling, her perseverance and her independence in apprenticeship and her work to train others in these skills.
LAURENT TISSOT - winner in the History- Research category for his contribution to
the renewal of our understanding of the economic, social and cultural history of Swiss watchmaking at an academic level influenced by his many research studies, wealth of publications and his strong communication skills.
KARL-FRIEDRICH SCHEUFELE - winner in the Entrepreneurship category for the dynamic
growth and international renown which the family company has enjoyed thanks to his leadership, and for developing new watchmaking entities which emphasize the value of people, craftsmanship and innovation. FADI JAMIL I Publisher, Editor-in-Chief
GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com Head of Creative / Graphic Designer: KYLE EVIDENTE | creative@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com
GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma © Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.
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GMT ME LADIES MAGAZINE NO27 2019
We assemble every single watch twice. Because perfection takes time.
For us, perfection is a matter of principle. This is why, on principle, we
movement parts are cleaned and decorated by hand with finishing and
craft all timepieces with the same care and assemble each watch twice.
polishing techniques, followed by the final assembly procedure. This as-
Thus, after the LITTLE LANGE 1 MOON PHASE has been assembled
sures long-term functional integrity and the immaculacy of all artisanal
for the first time and precisely adjusted, it is taken apart again. The
finishes. Even if this takes a little more time. www.alange-soehne.com
You are cordially invited to discover the collection at:
A. LANGE & SÖHNE BOUTIQUE DUBAI The Dubai Mall · Tel. +971 4 325 39 23 · dubai@lange-soehne.ae
CONTENTS GMT LADIES WATCHES AND JEWELLERIES
68 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Brume de saphir Collection
LIFESTYLE 40 HOT NEWS 72 SAGA
Première encapsulates that very first time 80 BEHIND THE SCENES
Chopard Green and Precious 86 SCENTS
Gucci Mémoire D’une Odeur 90 ESCAPADE
Rome Museum City or Queen of Pop Art ?
ART ART 68 JEWELRY
Brume de Saphir Collection 98 PHOTOSHOOT
58 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Ludo
TECH INSIGHTS 60 COVER STORY
Girard-Perregaux presents the 1966 Blue Moon 64 Iconic
Carrera and the lion
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60 COVER STORY
Girard-Perregaux presents the 1966 Blue Moon
HM FLOWERS ROYAL COLLECTION
Swiss Craftsmanship
www.arnoldandson.com
CONTENTS GMT LADIES WATCHES AND JEWELLERIES
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BEHIND THE SCENES
Chopard Green and Precious
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CLOSE-UP OF 3 NEW RELEASES
76 CHANEL
Spot the difference 77 CHAUMET
A dream miniature world 78 BUCHERER / LONGINES
Blue elegance
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BUCHERER/LONGINES
The Longines Master Collection Bucherer Blue Editions
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100 AUDEMARS PIGUET
ROYAL OAK DOUBLE BALANCE WHEE L OPENWORKED
CONTRIBUTORS
Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor Brice Lechevalier, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.
NAZANIN LANKARANI MICHÈLE BRUNNER Writing about art taught me that the beauty of well-made objects derives from the union of form, function and modernity.
A specialized watchmaking writer, I am passionate about art and literature, and consistently curious about exploring the world around us.
CLOÉ MUGNY A translator by training, I love crafting language just as a watchmaker expresses his meticulous know-how.
BRICE LECHEVALIER
MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON Tick means time for an encounter ; and tock the time devoted to writing. For 12 years, I have derived intense pleasure from telling intriguing watchmaking stories.
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What a pleasure to create a new magazine each month (on watches or sailing) and to share our passions with a premium readership !
DEFI MILLENNIUM
A DISTINCT SENSE OF STYLE LIGHTWEIGHT. HIGH PERFORMANCE.
WWW.ST-DUPONT.COM
CONTRIBUTORS
LIAH MILLASSON My life at the moment is all about juggling between the press, the Internet and baby bottles, making each moment even more precious and duly savored.
ANTONIO NIETO LAURENCE JENNI While the graphic world is my metaphorical hobby-horse, spending time with my literal horse helps me achieve the right work-life balance.
I’ve been a fashion, interior design and lifestyle journalist for 25 years, cultivating expertise and a fascination for the history of trends, crafts and beauty.
SARA ALLERSTORFER EDOUARD HAEGI I love taking on fresh technical and artistic challenges in order to create high-quality images for each issue !
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Fashion and jewelry are to me what Yves is to Saint Laurent or bubbles to champagne. The same goes for my Karamell Kids Concept Store.
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
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Celebrities wear Messika to the Venice Film Festival AUGUST 29TH. The famous Italian singer, Elodie sparkled in
the North Wind necklace from the High Jewelry collection
She wore the Beloved Feather bracelet from the High Jewelry
‘Once Upon A Time’, the Diamond Catcher earrings and Snake
collection ‘Once Upon A Time’ with My Twin ring and earrings.
Dance ring from the High Jewelry collection ‘Born To Be Wild’.
AUGUST 30TH. Model Tina Kunakey stunned on the arm of
German fashion influencer and model Caro Daur dazzled
Vincent Cassel with the Black Hawk set from the High Jewelry
in the Desert Bloom earrings from the High Jewelry collection
collection ‘Born To Be Wild’.
‘Born To Be Wild’ and the Undine bracelet and ring from the
Thai actress and model Min Pechaya was adorned in Messika looks all day long. During the day on a venetian boat she payed tribute to our new Lucky Move collection with the pendant earrings. She also wore Move necklace and bracelet and our iconic Glam’Azone double ring.
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At night on the red carpet, she turned up the glamor with
Messika Paris on the Red Carpet of the Venice Film Festival.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
High Jewelry collection’Once Upon A Time’. Fashion influencer Diipa Khosla shone in the Sirenetta earrings from the High Jewelry collection ‘Once Upon A Time’ with a Move ring, a Glam’Azone cuff and a My Twin ring.
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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Blancpain unveils a brand-new Boutique
at the China World Mall in Beijing
Blancpain is proud to announce the official opening of its largest flagship store in Beijing, located at the prestigious China World Mall, one of the country’s most thriving retail facilities. WITH ITS IMPRESSIVE 380sq.m two-story showroom, this brand-
watchmakers exercise their art. The boutique’s warm ambiance
new boutique is ideally situated on the ground floor of the
is completed by a comfortable seating area, a lounge bar, a
upscale “China World Mall” tower, adjacent to Beijing’s central
magnificent staircase as well as a private VIP suite for clients
business district. This excellent exposure is further enhanced by
who desire a more intimate shopping experience.
the shop’s unique architecture featuring a main entrance entirely
masterpieces and latest collections showcase the brand’s
to date the only watch brand in the building to have a street-
technical expertise by highlighting the wide range of
facing façade. Inside the mall, the store offers a second entry
sophisticated and complicated in-house movements – from
point featuring a design closely inspired by the brand’s centuries-
the classic and refined Villeret collection to the legendary Fifty
old “farmhouse” production facility in Le Brassus, a small village
Fathoms dive watches and the elegant Women timepieces. This
located in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland.
store also houses a customer service center enabling clients to
Just as in all Blancpain boutiques around the world, visitors are invited to enter a true place of hospitality and to experience an immersion into the brand universe. The interior reflects
have their watches serviced locally, while receiving product and maintenance advice tailored to their individual needs. Every detail has been carefully selected to enable visitors
the Manufacture’s proud heritage and its commitment to the
to discover and explore Blancpain’s horological know-how,
philosophy of “Innovation is Our Tradition”. The polished
perpetuated for more than 280 years with the same passion for
cherry woodwork and streamlined furniture evoke the authentic
excellence, meticulous craftsmanship and technical innovation.
atmosphere of the workshops where Blancpain’s master
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Exhibited across two levels, Blancpain’s watchmaking
made of glass, and directly accessible from the road. Blancpain is
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Opening of the BOVET 1822 Engineering Brilliance boutique in Tokyo ALWAYS APPRECIATIVE of decorative arts and excellence, Japanese collectors were among the first and have become some of the most loyal aficionados of Maison BOVET since its founding in 1822. Mr. Pascal Raffy, owner of Maison BOVET, is once again showing them how grateful he is, this time by opening an exclusive space in the prestigious Ginza neighborhood of Tokyo. Symbolically inaugurated on August 1 2019, the Swiss national holiday, this new boutique demonstrates Mr. Raffy’s and Maison BOVET 1822’s intention to continue raising the bar by going to collectors and offering them excellent hospitality, service, and advice that parallels the quality of BOVET timepieces. Japanese collectors can visit the space to discover timepieces that are unique both in terms of their artistic decoration and their mechanical complexity, all in the perfect environment to experience Maison BOVET 1822’s timepieces and the passion with which the brand’s artisans bring them to life.
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ADORED F E E LIN G L I K E T H E ONLY PE R S ON I N TH E WOR LD
+971 4 364 7555 jumeirah.com
ABU DHABI
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KUWAIT
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Blue Velvet by Vhernier
THE BLUE VELVET, Vhernier’s latest lavish jewellery creation, is
forward was incredibly satisfying; it was a wonderful creative
the product of two years of research and experimentation. The
experience.”
innovative use of titanium is what makes this line unparalleled. The exceptionally durable metal is shaped into a delicate, wave-
reflects off of the necklace, moving over its sinuous, coloured
like design and embellished with some of the finest precious
surfaces with the same soft sheen as velvet. It took over two
diamonds available in terms of colour, cut and purity. This
hundred hours of work to craft the Velvet necklace. Vhernier’s
unique combination epitomizes Vhernier’s exceptionally bold and
master craftsman was flanked by experts at every stage of the
creative flair. The necklace was the first piece of the Blue Velvet
intricate production process: from melting and drawing the
line to be completed. The body is entirely made of titanium and
titanium to hinging each mesh, from setting the diamonds and
features 2,262 diamonds totaling 14.45 carats.
gemstones to colouring and polishing.
Vhernier’s President, Carlo Traglio, describes the new creation:
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The name, Velvet, was inspired by the exceptional way light
As well as the necklace, the wave-like titanium motif is
“We set out with what seemed like an impossible dream: to
also found in two different sized bracelets, a ring and a pair
capture the fluid, three-dimensional form of a wave and turn
of earrings. A perfectly cast design of interlinked mesh and
it into an exceptional necklace, a modern “gorgère” which
hinges allow for the diamonds to be skillfully set into ultra-
was both lightweight and opulent. Employing the lightness of
hard titanium. The hues of dark blue are created by using
titanium was key. At our workshops in Valenza we gave ourselves
an anodizing technique; together this makes the Blue Velvet
the luxury of experimenting for more than two years without
extraordinary piece of jewellery. An incredibly complex
ever knowing whether we’d succeed. Finding the right way
achievement and never before seen creations.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Rado True Thinline
Les Couleurs Le Corbusier TM
The ultimate Rado tribute to a design legend (LENGNAU, SWITZERLAND – MAY 2019) At Rado, we are proud to launch our latest collection of full high-tech ceramic watches
Vibrant, velvety, balanced, bold, powerful, expressive,
which pay tribute to a true legend of design. The True Thinline
luminous, impressive and pure, the True Thinline Les
Les CouleursTM Le Corbusier celebrates the work of the
CouleursTM Le Corbusier watches are produced in limited
pioneering and visionary architect in a truly unique collection.
editions of 999 pieces per colour. Each has a special case back
As the Master of Materials, we have used all the expertise we’ve
design which includes all 63 colours. As ever at Rado, each
gained during more than 30 years of working with high-tech
piece is durable, scratch-resistant, light and comfortable to
ceramic to create watches in the nine Architectural Polychromy
wear thanks to the full high-tech ceramic construction and our
colours deemed to be both appealing and the most challenging to
pioneering monobloc case construction.
create consistently. Created in 1931 and 1959, Architectural Polychromy was ahead of its time, using 63 colours with architectural significance that help to create space and depth as well as having a profound
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well as Le Corbusier’s unrivalled status as a true visionary.
As the exclusive watch partner of Les CouleursTM Le Corbusier, only Rado is able to make these exact colours and we are proud to produce them in our signature high-tech ceramic. Often considered the ultimate Rado because of its
physiological and psychological impact on the viewer. The colours
breakthrough design, the True Thinline is the perfect watch to
are classified in nine groups of different shades and tones. The
showcase our ability to create bold and dynamic colour and to pay
palettes are still used widely today by architects and designers – a
tribute to Le Corbusier, who helped shape and define the modern
testament to their enduring appeal and long-lasting relevance as
world as we see it – in glorious technicolour.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
The NEW FRAGRANCE for HER
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Harry Winston
unveils its 2019 Métiers d’Art The latest chapter in Harry Winston’s unique Métiers d’Art saga takes place in Italy, in the historic city of Ravenna, known worldwide for its mosaics. PRECIOUS GEMSTONES are synonymous with Harry Winston,
to unprecedented levels, creating masterpieces for the local walls
and so are precious art forms, like the spectacular mosaic glass
and ceilings of the early Christian monuments.
setting on the dials of the six new Métiers d’Art timepieces from the House. An inimitable luxury made by hand in Ravenna,
a true passion at Harry Winston, whose designers turned to the
Italy, the vibrant dials are highlighted with quintessential Harry
impressive art of glass micromosaic for their newest Premier
Winston diamonds in an artistic marriage that is destined to
timepiece. The six unique models feature timeless handcrafted
shine for a lifetime.
dials that juxtapose bold color palettes with contrasting
An ancient art, mosaics are made from small pieces of colored glass, ceramic, stone or other materials known collectively as tesserae. The tesserae are then applied on an adhesive surface to
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Finding new and original ways to animate timepiece dials is
fragments of translucent and opaque glass, to create designs that are fascinating and unique. Powered by a high-end Swiss mechanical automatic
create a design. Widely used in Ancient Greece and Rome, the art
movement, the Premier Precious Micromosaic and Premier
of mosaic flourished under the Byzantine Empire. Ravenna, the
Precious Peacock timepieces are presented in both 18-karat
capital city of the Roman Empire in the 5th century, and then
white and 18-karat rose gold cases, and each dial composition is
Byzantine Italy through the 8th century, took the art of mosaic
limited to just 30 pieces.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Moritz Grossmann
honours US team with special model MORITZ GROSSMANN CONGRATULATES the US WNT with the Women’s World Cup SOCCER WATCH The favourites did it! Since Sunday evening, the US WNT has
representation of the hand mirror of the goddess Venus. Both
been football world champion for the fourth time. The team
enable a partial view of the calibre 201.1. The match result “2:0”
under trainer Jill Ellis were favourites even before the World Cup
together with the year 2019are evidence of the triumph of this
started and after their quarter-final victory against hosts France,
team’s unique performance. The hands and seams are in the
hardly anyone had any doubts anymore that the American team
colours of the US WNT: blue, red, white.
would prevail. However, the win was in no way an easy one. ‘The pressure on us was huge’, said US star Megan Rapinoe. The Women’s World SOCCER WATCH is dedicated to all fans of
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The specially made Soccer dial has a cut-out in the shape of a football and the Venus symbol ♀ which is seen as a stylised
Even before their fourth World Cup victory, the women’s national team of the United States was already the most successful national team in the world in women’s soccer. They
the US WNT and lovers of exquisite watches. It is presented in a
have been world champion three times, Olympic champion
sporty stainless steel casing with a black look, which is due to the
four times and winner of the CONCACAF Women’s Gold Cup an
elaborate ‘Diamond Like Carbon’ (DLC) finish.
impressive eight times.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Mandarin Oriental, Geneva launches new Royal Penthouse Suite DUBAI, 8 SEPTEMBER 2019 – Mandarin Oriental, Geneva has
incorporates the colours and charms of a season,” explained
launched its newest signature suite for guests seeking the
J Lee Rofkind, founder of BUZ Design. The master bedroom
ultimate in sumptuous comfort and spectacular views. Providing
reflects spring, with carpets picking-up the blues of the lake and
325 square metres of contemporary elegance, the Royal Penthouse
mountains and the bright yellows of tulips and other flowers.
is one of the largest suites in Geneva. It features a splendid 175
Autumnal hues fill the living room, while cool winter colours
square-metre terrace with panoramic vistas of snow-capped
prevail in the entertainment room and a bright summery palette
mountains, the River Rhone and the city’s Old Town.
has been used in the second and third bedrooms.
Making the most of the Royal Penthouse’s situation on the hotel’s 7th and highest floor, its designers at BUZ Design have
the floor’s Junior Suites, has created a homely, welcoming terrace,
created an open-plan suite that is flooded with daylight pouring
a lush, peaceful haven. In addition to its large size, the terrace’s
in through floor-to-ceiling windows and from which guests can
stunning vistas give it that special wow-factor, making it perfect
enjoy expansive views of Geneva. The suite includes a master
for entertaining. Parties on the terrace can be catered for in the
bedroom with hammam shower, two further en-suite bedrooms
suite’s well-equipped pantry.
and a spacious living room carefully zoned into separate dining
Royal Penthouse guests will enjoy exclusive amenities and
and lounge areas and with a cosy setting next to a fireplace. The
services, available either on a complimentary basis or at an
suite features a sound-proofed entertainment room with the
indicated charge, to ensure a stay is tailored to their needs.
latest audio-visual equipment.
Recommended moments include holding a film night in the
For flexibility, the Royal Penthouse can be converted into a one-
suite’s entertainment room or selecting delicious dishes from the
bedroom suite or combined with the Royal Suite on the 6th floor,
in-suite dining menu, prepared by a dedicated chef, to enjoy on
via a connecting private lift, to form the Imperial Residence, a
the terrace or round the dining table. Outside the hotel, guests
sensational six-bedroom suite offering 577 square metres of pure
can witness the skill of watchmakers at work or fly 60 minutes
luxury.
to enjoy a picnic at a spectacular spot near Mont Blanc, western
“Each of the four main areas of the Royal Penthouse
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For this newest suite at the hotel, BUZ Design, which designed
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Europe’s highest peak.
Paris 8ème
Grand Powers 52 rue François 1er - Paris 8ème Book your stay directly on hotelgrandpowersparis.com +33 (0)1 47 23 91 05
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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
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Audemars Piguet and the Montreux Jazz Festival
celebrated the Closing Night of the Festival’s 53Rd Edition alongside Quincy Jones LE BRASSUS, 15 JULY 2019: Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer
Piguet’s Chief Executive Officer, joined the closing party held at
closing night of the Festival’s 53rd edition on July 13, 2019—a
the Belvédère, where artists gather after concerts, along with more
co-organised event starring legendary Quincy Jones, godfather of
than 150 guests.
the Montreux Jazz Festival and long-lasting friend of the brand.
The closing night proceeded with an incredible jam session on
The closing party was the perfect occasion to officially celebrate
the stage of la Coupole, next to the Belvédère. Many of the artists
the Global partnership between the two entities, which extends
present, including Jon Batiste, -M- (Matthieu Chedid), Gareth
their ongoing collaboration begun in 2010 with the Montreux Jazz
Daley, Lauren Jauregui, Ibrahim Maalouf, Jonah Nilsson and
Digital Project.
Sheléa joined the stage for a unique performance. Open to the
The celebration started with Quincy Jones’ concert, Soundtrack
general public, this improvised concert blew away hundreds of
of the 80s. A line-up of seven artists had gathered at the Stravinski
spectators. The party continued till dawn at the Belvédère with DJ
Hall to play some of the most popular hits composed, produced or
Ariel Wizman.
arranged by Quincy Jones in the 1980s. Jon Batiste, -M- (Matthieu
This shared event symbolises the beginning of a new musical
Chedid), Gareth Daley, Lauren Jauregui, Ibrahim Maalouf, Jonah
adventure for Audemars Piguet as Global Partner of the Montreux
Nilsson and Sheléa were accompanied on stage by the Sinfonietta
Jazz Festival and beyond.
de Lausanne, directed by John Clayton and Jules Buckley.
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After the concert, François-Henry Bennahmias, Audemars
Audemars Piguet and the Montreux Jazz Festival celebrated the
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
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CMY
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Rue de la Chapelle 8 1207 Genève
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo TO CELEBRATE THE TIMELESS ELEGANCE of one of its great
has renewed itself over the years in a multitude of guises, while
signatures, Van Cleef & Arpels is putting the Ludo bracelet back at
remaining true to its original design.
center stage. Created in 1934, the design evokes a precious belt;
Today, the Maison is honoring it with its own collection,
it was baptized with the nickname of Louis Arpels, one of the
including four new versions and as many dazzling harmonies.
Maison’s founders. Today, four brand new versions bring together
The gold’s smooth, shiny surface is subtly interspersed with
different materials and gold colors to magnify the creation’s
precious or hard stones, alongside a graphic interplay of lines.
emblematic briquette and hexagon motifs. The abstract style
Just as a belt adds structure to the silhouette and accentuates a
of the 1930s is combined with the Maison’s cherished couture
slender waist, the Ludo bracelet highlights the graceful outline of
inspiration. Thanks to virtuoso craftsmanship from the Van Cleef
a feminine wrist.
& Arpels workshops, the gold takes on a light, flexible quality – studded with dazzling precious details.
In keeping with the traditional “honeycomb” mesh, three of the new pieces feature hexagonal links adorned with a star-set precious stone at their centers. Engraved in the gold, the star-
PURE, ELEGANT LINES Uncluttered and refined, the Ludo collection reinterprets an
creating the impression of a sparkling constellation. The fourth
iconic Van Cleef & Arpels creation dating from 1934. The Ludo
model illuminates the briquette mesh, recalling the shimmering
bracelet is shaped like a belt; distinguished by its flexible mesh,
weave of a fabric with its association of gold and diamonds.
it is punctuated by a bucklelike clasp, set with precious stones. It
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shaped motif harbors a grain-set ruby, sapphire or diamond,
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Cover Story FADI JAMIL
Girard-Perregaux
presents the 1966 Blue Moon Offering a contemporary take on a brand classic, Girard-Perregaux treats this timepiece to a new face by combining its understated and dynamic style with the everuseful date and moon-phase functions.
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lue like the Earth. Black like the cosmos. In 2019, Girard-Perregaux has initiated a symbolic dialogue with the universe, which is taking a poetic turn this summer with the 1966 Blue Moon.
ATMOSPHERIC COLORS The exosphere is the outermost layer of the Earth’s atmosphere. Deep black by nature, it almost merges into interplanetary space. Likewise, as if on the very frontiers of the void, black largely dominates this revisited classic. Its black DLC-treated microblasted steel case and its integrated alligator leather strap with matt black rubber effect enhanced with elegant blue topstitching are like night itself. And in the heart of that night, light bursts forth. Water represents 70% of the Earth’s surface and is reflected in the atmosphere. The deep blue adorning the delicately curved dial thereby visually resonates like an echo the globe itself. Together, these elements perform an astonishly modern chromatic terrestrial ballet.
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GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966 BLUE MOON CASE : Material: black DLC-coated microblasted steel GLASS: glareproofed
sapphire crystal DIAL: gradient blue HOUR-MARKERS: baton-type HANDS: leaf-type CASEBACK: metallic sapphire crystal WATER RESISTANCE: 30 metres (30 ATM) MOVEMENT REFERENCE : GP03300-0115 WINDING : Automatic FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, central seconds, date and moon-phase display POWER RESERVE: minimum 46 hours NUMBER OF COMPONENTS: 276 including 27 jewels STRAP MATERIAL: rubberised alligator with matt black exterior and matt blue interior, blue topstitching BUCKLE: steel with black DLC treatment
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TAKING ON AN ASTRONOMICAL DIMENSION Easily recognisable by its play on blue and black tones, this timeless timepiece now appears with a new face. The hours, minutes and centre seconds hands are now joined by a pointertype date display at 6 o’clock featuring a red dot on the 31st day – surrounding the timeless elegance of a moon-phase indication – which simplifies read-off and facilitates adjustment. Throughout the year, this timepiece reveals the changing faces of the night star. T ime is marked off by curved leaf type hands sweeping over baton-type hour-markers, all featuring contemporary dimensions (40mm) yet without succumbing to ephemeral trends.
AESTHETE OF THE INVISIBLE From design through to hand-finished details, great care has been lavished on the 1966 Blue Moon. In keeping with its longstanding tradition, Manufacture Girard-Perregaux has equipped this model with a tried and trusted and supremely refined movement. Calibre GP3300-0115 comprises 276 components graced with six different finishes crafted by master watchmakers. The meticulously circular-grained, chamfered and mirror-polished mainplate and bridges, the blued screws and the oscillating weight adorned with Côtes de Genève, are subtly revealed through its metallised glareproofed sapphire caseback. The 1966 Blue Moon delivers a power reserve of at least 46 hours, and is water-resistant to 3 ATM, equivalent to 30 metres.
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ICONIC
TAG HEUER BRICE LECHEVALIER
Cara
Carrera and the lion 64
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Why the icon of the Millennials embodies the spirit of TAG Heuer’s Carrera Lady.
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ho other than TAG Heuer could bring together the king of animals with the queen of social media, immortalized by the prince of animal photogra-
phers, David Yarrow ? Between the urban ambassador and the lord of the jungle, there is no question of supremacy ; neither tames the other, while both respect each other. And not just because the actress and fashion model was born under the Leo star sign. The noble animal is indeed tattooed on her forefinger, because it symbolizes strength and courage. “It has long been a dream of mine to get the chance to work with wild animals, and particularly with a lion ! I’m extremely grateful to have been able to work with TAG Heuer on this new campaign.” The spectacular visual result is also due to the talent of worldrenowned wildlife photographer, whose ability to grasp the fleeting and supreme beauty of living creatures without any tricks, such as here in South Africa, is rightly lauded by the TAG Heuer management. In the middle of the savannah, beauty and the beast are seen lined up in a unique way through his lens. “When I photograph an animal, the first thing I do is look into its eyes”, explained David. “If they are not piercing, then it’s very difficult to capture the animal’s soul. And Cara has a truly piercing gaze ! I therefore knew right away that the look would be at the very heart of this project !” The muse of the venerable yet avantgarde brand thus sends a powerful and youthful breeze blowing through the flagship Carrera collection, which has remained successful since 1964. What’s more, the TAG Heuer “Don’t Crack Under Pressure” slogan could almost have been invented with her in mind.
TAG Heuer Carrera Lady CASE : polished or black PVD-treated stainless steel ; bezel, lugs and crown in
polished or black PVD-treated stainless steel or pink gold, convex glareproofed sapphire crystal, screw-in solid caseback, water-resistant to 100m DIAMETER : 36mm MOVEMENT : quartz FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : sunburst blue, opaline black or sunburst black & blue flange or black with 60-second scale, rhodium-treated and/or enhanced with Super-LumiNova® or pink gold-plated STRAP : blue rubber and leather, chestnut brown full grain calfskin, or black alligator, or black full grain calfskin ; stainless steel or black PVD-coated folding clasp
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YOUNGER, SPORTIER AND MORE FEMININE While many women adopt the Carrera’s men’s chronograph
versions. The refined facetted hands reflect a concern for detail.
version, which is loyal to the original but with a contemporary twist,
The strap, which is an especially important element for women,
many others are looking forward to a new model that is a better fit
comes in a range of shades and materials running from black
on the wrist. The new 36mm-diameter stainless steel watch is also
alligator leather to blue rubber or chestnut brown full grain
intended to be more feminine, especially since it is accompanied
calfskin. Finally, a key factor for younger generations lies in
by a selection of modern decorations that accentuate its personality.
the quality/price ratio of this asset-packed watch, which starts
Its crown, the bezel framing the dials and the lugs connecting
at CHF1,450 and is thus within reach even for those who
it
on
don’t have millions of social media followers. It’s high time
whether the lucky owner prefers it in polished stainless
to wear a TAG Heuer Carrera Lady. Can’t decide which ? Our
to
steel, the
the pink
“Full
strap gold Black”
feature or
a
black
version.
different
look
PVD-treated The
dial
also
depending
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editorial team has p repared a video showing various
adapts
models, available in an abridged version on our
to the tastes of dynamic young women by appearing
Instagram account, and in full on the YouTube
in sunburst blue or black, punctuated by hour-
channel
markers that are rhodium-treated, pink gold-plated or
authoritative luxury digital influencer dedicated to
enhanced with Super-LumiNova® depending on the
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for
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
of
our
fine watchmaking.
partner
WorldTempus
the
An international watch owners club offering its members year-round benefits In association with GMT Magazine, WorldTempus, Geneva Watch Tour and Watch Photo Awards
O pe ni ng 2 0 19 register now on
Photography: Karine Bauzin
www.fine-watch-club.com
JEWELRY FADI JAMIL
Brume de saphir collection Light and color 68
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Seeking its muse in the changing colors of the waves
the white gold openwork structure evokes the caress of the sea
as the hours go by, Van Cleef & Arpels created Brume
breeze. Diamonds, bestrewed randomly throughout the neck-
de saphir, two High Jewelry ensembles inspired by the
lace and bracelet, combine with the light and dark blue sap-
Palmyre collection. A surge of blue or pink, reflections on the
phires in a ballet of shimmering ripples. The earrings, long
water seem to come alive in a stream of light.
cascades drawn out in a gradation of blue, enhance the fluid
In a mist of precious stones, the subtle tones of the Brume de saphir ensemble call to mind a peaceful day by the seashore.
lines of these creations, paying tribute to the captivating dance of waves.
Each gem is set in a bezel allowing light to pass through, while
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On this tenderly colorful ensemble, the diamonds and pink sapphires sparkle like fine droplets against the setting sun. Their radiance complements the warm hue of the pink gold, creating a delicate harmony. Remarkably flexible, the necklace and bracelet embrace the silhouette while the earrings follow each movement with ribbonlike fluidity, capturing the softness of a summer’s night.
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RIPPLING STONES For this collection, Van Cleef & Arpels interpreted the sea’s
enrich necklaces, earrings and bracelets with their sparkle.
changing colors over the day through a nuanced palette of
The Maison infuses Brume de saphir creations with its High
stones. The Maison’s expert gemologists endeavored to assemble
Jewelry expertise. The graceful mounts seem to disappear in
sapphires in three paired groups according to color, from lightest
deference to the gems, while the articulations uniting each bezel
to darkest. Each stone was chosen for its intensity and quality of
make for both an elegant flair and a singular fluidity.
crystallization, making for delicate harmonies that call to mind dazzling reflections on the surface of the water. The diamonds set in the different pieces were all selected according to the strictest criteria: D to F for color and IF to VVS2 for clarity. They
Each stone reveals its full brilliance thanks to the bezel mount, which instills the piece with intense brightness by allowing light to pass through. This diffused luminosity also exalts the subtle gradations in hue among the sapphires.
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SAGA MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON
GABRIELLE CHANEL as portrayed
by Lipnitzki in 1936.
Première encapsulates that
very first time
Chanel had never shown an interest in time before the day in October 1987 when the Première watch set the tone for an approach to feminine watchmaking that plays with time as well as with fashion codes.
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THE PREMIÈRE ROCK METAL WATCH, inspired by the bottle
stopper of No 5, the famous fragrance personified by Carole Bouquet.
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here’s always a first time. A first chapter in the story. The first day of the rest of your life. The one that marked Chanel’s arrival on the watchmaking scene took place in October 1987. Lighting up a rainy
Paris that autumn, the stage entrance of the Première entrance heralded a real watchmaking springtime for Chanel. For 31 years, this dainty octagonal watch designed exclusively for women’s wrists has been weaving Chanel’s watchmaking history with a precious and timeless golden thread. Première is first and foremost a name. A reference to that which is achieved for the very first time. It is also the name given to the head seamstress of an haute couture atelier. When Chanel presented this tiny watch specifically made with women in mind, no one was expecting it. Nonetheless, although the Maison with its two intertwined Cs had never previously sought to extend its signature to encompassing the measurement of time, the launch of the Première was a natural continuation of the style codes instilled by Gabrielle Chanel. The exquisite sketch made by Chanel’s Artistic Director, Jacques Helleu, gave rise to a timelessly elegant watch featuring a shape inspired by the stopper of the N°5 fragrance, as well as by the Place Vendôme. The strap embracing the wrist was a fresh interpretation of the woven leather and metal shoulder strap of the 2.55 it-bag. And while a watch is made to tell the time, this one seemed to have been designed to transcend its functional purpose. The Première is a piece of jewelry and a fashion accessory in its own right.
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THE PREMIÈRE ROCK GOLD unveiled in 2018 continues to
highlight the shape of the Place Vendôme, in Paris.
CHANNELING COCO CHANEL Embodied by the fashion muse Inès de la Fressange ; subtle and refined on the wrist of French actress Carole Bouquet ; adopted by generations of women in love with the unique Chanel allure, the Première has been perpetually reinvented while losing nothing of its inherent splendor. In 2012, the collection was enriched by the Première Flying Tourbillon, in which this jewel was transformed into a fascinating expression of mechanical horology. While Chanel had called on the expertise of the movement developers, engineers and master watchmakers at Renaud & Papi in creating the caliber, the signature touch of the in-house design studio clearly governed the creative process. Finely crafted like metal lacework, a camellia evoking those Mademoiselle Chanel liked to wear on her lapel adorns the tourbillon. The latter beats steadily behind the scenes, while the petals of the flower with its diamond-pavé heart indicate the passing seconds. Hovering between poetry and technical sophistication, the Première appeared in a new guise in 2017, powered by the dainty and mesmerizing Caliber 2 : the second Chanel in-house mechanism entirely openworked and stylized to form a three-dimensional camellia bloom. Nonetheless, alongside such technical feats, the Première watch has for more than two decades remained a fashion queen that flirts with jewelry codes. In double or triple tour versions or as a glam rock iteration, enhanced by a metal chain or a bracelet inspired by the famous quilted-patterned Chanel handbag, Première continues to delight fashionistas – as it has done since that very first time.
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FOCUS
CHANEL
MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON
J12 CASE : white ceramic and steel DIAMETER : 38mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Caliber 12.1, COSC-
certified, 70h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : white lacquered CASEBACK : sapphire crystal WATER RESISTANCE : 200m BRACELET : white ceramic
Spot the difference At first glance, nothing has changed. It still boasts the same sporty lines sculpted in white or black ceramic, which in the year 2000 proved a game-changer in watch design. But between the brilliant sketch by Jacques Helleu, Chanel’s former artistic director, and the new design revealed this year by his successor Arnaud Chastaingt, the J12 has been transformed. The size of the dial has been accentuated by a refined bezel and highlighted by more grooves. The profile of the case has been subtly enlarged without sacrificing the flowing elegance of its silhouette. The font of the numerals and hour-markers features a new design, as does the inner railway track bearing new indicators. Behind the scenes, transformation is also the name of the game with a brand-new COSC-certified self-winding 12.1 caliber designed and developed exclusively for Chanel by the Kenissi watch movement manufacturer. Although its performance is COSC-certified, it foregoes nothing of Chanel’s characteristic elegance. As a graphic signature, its oscillating weight has thus been openworked to form a perfect circle. In the end, Chanel has modified around 80% of the J12’s components without ever compromising its identity. The J12 will always remain the J12.
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FOCUS
CHAUMET DAVID CHOKRON
Chaumet Pierres de Rêve CASE : white gold, transparent sapphire crystal, diamond-
set bezel, crown and lugs (1.58ct) SIZE : 35mm in diameter MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding with engraved gold oscillating weight FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : dendritic agate STRAP : black alligator with white gold pin buckle
A dream
miniature world The mineral kingdom never ceases to amaze us. With its Pierre de Rêve (Dream Stones) collection, Chaumet makes the most of the infinitely varied appearance of the rare rocks and crystals that take shape within the earth. Drawing on the eponymous Asian tradition of Dream Stones, the Parisian brand is launching twelve watches, graced with dials that are unique by nature. While they bear carry little-known, scientific and sometimes daunting names, chrysocolla, pietersite, shattuckite, azurite and the huge jasper family feature unusual graphic appearances. They can be found in mineralogy collections, in the gem trade shows of Colorado or Kash- mir. Chaumet has chosen to cut thin round slices of these colorful stones that make exceptional dials. Dendritic agate as pictured here is a perfect example. A random and free creation, this pure product of organic chemistry looks like a snow-covered landscape, or a Japanese ink painting. The poetry of its layout was revealed only by the lapidary who cut into the raw block – before Chaumet surrounded it with gold and diamonds to celebrate the innocent beauty of nature.
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FOCUS
BUCHERER / LONGINES CLOÉ MUGNY
Blue elegance Founded in 1888, Bucherer is celebrating its 130th anniversary. To mark this milestone and its special bond with certain luxury watch brands, the Maison launched its “Bucherer Blue Editions” collection. The concept consists in a series of watches crafted in cooperation with various brands based on the guiding theme of blue, symbolizing elegance and timelessness. For this anniversary watch dedicated to women, Bucherer blue takes the place of Longines blue. Unlike the other models in the collection, this new interpretation of The Longines Master Collection model does not feature a blue dial, but instead a silver-toned face bearing a splendid guilloché motif reminiscent of a flower. The blue theme is thus picked up on the deep blue alligator leather strap enhanced by light topstitching, as well as on the hours and minutes hands sweeping over this floral decor alongside the seconds hand bearing the symbol of infinity. Lending a precious touch, the odd-number Arabic numerals of this timepiece have been replaced by diamonds, the only exception to the rule being the 3 o’clock spot already occupied by a date window. True to its origins, this watch with its 36mm stainless steel case beats to the rhythm of a mechanical movement, like all the other models in The Longines Master Collection.
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The Longines Master Collection Bucherer Blue Editions CASE : stainless steel, water-resistant
to 30m, sapphire caseback SIZE : 36mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Caliber 2892/A2, 28,800 vibrations per hour FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, central seconds, date at 3 o’clock DIAL : guilloché silver-toned, Arabic numerals five diamonds STRAP : blue alligator leather, folding clasp
Tel: +971 7 228 4895
BEHIND THE SCENES NAZANIN LANKARANI
Chopard GREEN AND PRECIOUS
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Chopard commits to “all green” ethically sourced gold and traceable precious stones.
W
hen shopping for a beautiful piece of high jewelry or a bejeweled watch, clients today are looking beyond carats and craftsmanship.
Many are demanding the assurance that the object of their desires did not displace indigenous communities, pollute waterways, impose inhumane working conditions, or engage child labor. “Going green” begins with ensuring traceability and a verifiable chain of custody of precious materials, responsibilities that the luxury industry.
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“We are proud to say that all our gold will be purchased from responsible sources.”
C
hopard, long admired for its high jewelry and watchmaking tradition, is tackling sustainability head on. In an announcement made last March, the Swiss
jewelry house committed to producing all of its jewelry and watch collections with 100 percent ethical gold starting in July 2018. “We are proud to say that all our gold will be purchased from responsible sources” said Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard. “It is a bold commitment, but one that we must pursue to make a difference to the lives of people who make our business possible.” Chopard has now assumed a leading role in reducing the environmental and humanitarian impact of its operations – from mine to market – as it guarantees “clean” precious metals to its clients. “Fairmined” refers to gold extracted by small-scale miners certified with the standard created by the Alliance for Responsible Mining. Chopard has GREEN CARPET WATCH, quartz movement, dial set with 139 emeralds
(0.55ct), surrounded by 55 marquise-cut emeralds (11.52cts), 27 emeralds (0.18ct) and 81 diamonds (0.24ct) GREEN CARPET RING, 22 marquise-cut emeralds (3.16cts)
committed to using “Fairmined gold” from only two sources : small mines verified by the Swiss Better Gold Association or from refineries certified as meeting the Responsible Jewellery Council’s Chain of Custody Standard, widely regarded as imposing strict environmental and social guidelines. “True luxury comes only when you know the handprint of your supply chain,” said Caroline Scheufele, co-president and creative director of Chopard. “I am proud to share the stories behind each beautiful piece with our customers and know they will wear these stories with pride.”
CHOPARD’S HAUTE JOAILLERIE GOES GREEN Chopard’s Green Carpet Haute Joaillerie collection, the first of its kind to be ethically produced since 2013, is augmented each year with stunning new pieces, including this year, which saw the introduction of two necklaces and earrings in diamond lacework motifs radiating a contemporary appeal. According to Chopard : “The feminine designs of the Green Carpet collection are fresh and original, intended for daily wear by the modern woman.” Chopard extended its “green” commitment to precious stones in 2016 when it partnered with Gemfields, a supplier of ethical gemstones, enabling the Maison to create a stunning jewelry timepiece set with marquise and round-cut emeralds ethically mined in Zambia.
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BRACELET, 1958 diamants (16,45 ct) BRACELET, 1,958 diamonds (16.45cts)
WHITE GOLD EARCLIPS, 6 pear
shaped diamonds (2.86cts), 2 heart-shaped diamonds (1.40cts), 90 diamonds (0.68ct)
Improving the lives of those who toil in the luxury industry has been a focus of the Oscar-winning actor, Colin Firth, and his wife Livia, founder of the Green Carpet Challenge and creative director of Eco-Age, both long-term advocates of Chopard’s green commitment. “The story of a watch is very much to do with hands,” Mr Firth said. “There are hands that mine the ground for gold, which passes through the hands of the craftsmen who make the watch, which then passes into the hands of the person who’s going to wear it.”
GLAMOUR IS NOW EMERALD GREEN Every spring, Chopard takes its Green Carpet collection on the global stage at the Cannes Film Festival. The Festival’s trophy, known as the Palme d’or, is also a visible symbol of Chopard’s green orientation. Crafted by the Maison in ethical gold since 2014, the feathery palm rests on a rock crystal cushion shaped like an emerald-cut diamond. Ms Scheufele says she is “proud that the Palme d’or is made of traceable gold mined in a manner respectful of human beings and the environment.” Chopard’s Green Carpet glamour is best embodied by the women who wear it well, like Cate Blanchett seen sporting her diamond earrings at the Golden Globe awards, Julianne Moore in her remarkable emerald earrings and ring set, and Marion Cotillard who has collaborated in designing pieces for the Green Carpet collection.
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A 30-YEAR MARRIAGE OF ETHICS AND AESTHETICS
French actress and Angel Face star MARION COTILLARD sparkled in 18K yellow gold and platinum earrings set with orange diamonds (18.86cts) and white diamonds (12.01cts).
For Chopard, owned by the Scheufele family since 1963, the commitment to ethical production is the culmination of a 30-year strategy of vertical integration. As Mr Scheufele explains : “More than 30 years ago, we developed a vertically integrated in-house production, and invested in mastering all crafts internally, including by bringing in skilled high jewelry artisans and expert watchmakers.” Vertical integration has enabled Chopard to control its production processes and assume a pioneering role in the industry in ways that help real people engaged in its supply chain. Ms Scheufele is keen to point out that “ethics have always been an important part of our family philosophy and we have naturally placed ethical concerns at the heart of the Chopard values.”
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SCENTS GUCCI FADI JAMIL
GUCCI MÉMOIRE D’UNE ODEUR 86
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“Everything comes from my obsession with scents: my memory is primarily olfactive so, for me, my sense of smell is my memory. I thought that, deep down, perfume is that thing that even with your eyes closed, brings you to a precise moment in space and time. When we began to work on Gucci Mémoire d’une Odeur, I tried to imagine the recollection of a scent that couldn’t easily be identified; a hybrid scent that resembles memory as much as possible,” Alessandro Michele
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 87
Scent is in our subconscious, attached to fragments of moments
wood and airy, subtle cedarwood, a powerful tree with deep roots
intense love, or overwhelming sadness. A scent can gift a moment
and an irresistible vanilla note.
again, so an experience from the past can be relived in the now. For a new Gucci fragrance story, scent becomes an explorer of the power of memories, bringing them back from the past and
MINERAL AROMATIC FAMILY Disrupting the traditional olfactive families that classifies
making them live in our present. Skipping backward and forward
fragrances, Gucci Mémoire d’une Odeur establishes a new modern
in chronological time, the present and past are connected by a
fragrance category, Mineral, which is a mix of scents and emo-
unique bridge that projects directly into the future. Presenting a
tions: airy, musky, transparent and authentic. Mineral was clas-
new universal Gucci scent. A perfume unassigned with a gender
sically used to describe facets of some fragrances, and combined
or a time. Presenting Gucci Mémoire d’une Odeur.
with Aromatic, it becomes the center of Gucci Memoire d’une
THE FRAGRANCE Gucci Mémoire d’une Odeur is an elixir that transcends gender by its individuality, to establish a new olfactive family, Mineral Aromatic. The transcendent accord features unexpected and enigmatic ingredients, and is defined by a note of Roman chamomile. Alessandro Michele envisioned this particular flower inside the scent, blended by master perfumer Alberto Morillas. Gucci Mémoire d’une Odeur’s Roman chamomile is structured with Indian Coral Jasmine petals for tenderness, precious musks
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for depth, and noble woods including warm, luminous sandal-
lived, coloring them with emotions of all-consuming joy, of
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Odeur. ”The musky mineral accord is the keystone of the fragrance: it links all the other olfactive elements together with pure softness,” Alberto Morillas.
THE NOTES “I had to think quite carefully about why Alessandro chose chamomile. When I started to work with the scent of chamomile itself, then I understood,” Morillas said. “No one had done it before. Chamomile is known all over the world. Everyone has smelt it at
some point, but as a dream, a memory of childhood, something timeless, and never in a fragrance. This flower is much underestimated and is a plant with an exceptional olfactive signature.”
ROMAN CHAMOMILE Roman Chamomile has grown around Rome in terraced gardens since the 16th and 17th centuries. Giving a green aromatic scent, the sunny and hardy flower has an unparalleled character, radiating with joy to a sweet aromatic dry down with honey and green apple.
INDIAN CORAL JASMINE NATURE PRINT® A note exclusive to Gucci, collected in India, the star-shaped flower emits a more powerful scent and colors at night, remaining lighter and fresher during the day. Referred to as Queen of
THE BOTTLE Alessandro Michele discovered a vintage Gucci fragrance bottle, and was inspired by its design for Gucci Mémoire d’une Odeur’s bottle. Grooved like a column from an ancient world, the bottle casts a refined silhouette in heavy transparent light green glass, crowned with shiny gold cap. Printed gold foil frames the label, revealing the Gucci logo together with the name of the fragrance.
THE PACKAGING “The packaging comes from the past, inspired by an old Gucci perfume from the early 90s. I didn’t want the bottle to take on a shape or size that is too feminine or too masculine because the perfume could be very much for women or very much for men,” Alessandro Michele. Symbolizing a starry night sky and the earthly world that gazes
the Night, the official flower of Bengal, this unique quality of jas-
up at it in marvel, the perfume’s green box is decorated with
mine has a honeyed temper and an orangey coral-colored heart.
Celestial firmaments inspired by the paintings of Roman and
Gucci Mémoire d’une Odeur’s dry down is an evanescent cloud,
gothic churches of the Middle Ages and Renaissance in Europe.
evolving on skin with a rhythm of Musks and iconic woods:
This particular pattern recalls Giotto’s frescoes in the Scrovegni
Cedarwood and Sandalwood. The woody architecture of the fra-
Chapel in Padova.
grance brings intensity to its structure.
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ESCAPADE BRICE LECHEVALIER
Rome
MUSEUM CITY OR QUEEN OF POP ART ? 90
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TTstudio/stock.adobe.com
It is no coincidence that the city of Rome, a veritable open-air museum built on seven hills, is the historical cradle of Bulgari. Wherever one looks and virtually around every street corner lies a wealth of surprising sculptures, appealing architecture and impressive art. Andy Warhol famously said “When I am in Rome, I always visit Bulgari, because it is the most important museum of contemporary art.� It was also in Rome that the brand launched its Wild Pop high jewelry collection last summer, a vibrant tribute to the 1980s.
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A
day in Rome should begin with a stroll through the magnificent grounds of the Villa Borghese overlooking the many spires and steeples of the city, whose generous nature is endowed with a
poetic touch through the historical monuments and sculptures that abound throughout. A perfect prelude to a visit to the legendary Bulgari boutique on the Via dei Condotti, leading to the famous Piazza di Spagna. Its distinctive architecture is partially due to the fact that it links two formerly separate historical buildings that it has brought within a single entity. It comprises numerous splendidly decorated areas with themed content, including a Curiosity Store – a unique artistic concept. Fans of the brand will remember that Nicola Bulgari was an art lover and a pioneer of Pop Art who even moved to New York during the 1980s. He particularly cherished Bulgari’s special bond with Andy Warhol. The extravagant Bulgari models fitted seamlessly into this eclectic milieu. This colorful spirit with its spectacular dimensions is vividly reflected in the new Wild Pop collection and its magnificent High Jewelry creations, notably the Queen of Pop necklace and the stunning Feast of Flowers earrings.
QUEEN OF POP is a platinum reinterpretation of a 1980s jewelry
silhouette. With its semi-rigid shapes and an exceptional 24.8 ct sapphire combined with baguette-cut diamonds, mint tourmalines and sapphires, this necklace symbolizes a resolutely “Pop-inspired” attitude to High Jewelry.
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NATURAL EXUBERANCE As Bulgari’s CEO Jean-Christophe Babin points out, no other brand can so legitimately lay claim to this heritage. “Right from the start, Bulgari’s genetic heritage in Rome and its monumental architecture have been in its High Jewelry DNA, expressed through powerful volumes and vivid colors, as well as the pioneering introduction of colored gems other than precious stones. Pop Art was thus immediately and authentically compatible with these genes. The 2018 theme is extremely geometrical, but it echoes this DNA and its ensembles, all driven by an obsession to ensure that wearing them is an intensely pleasurable experience.” For above and beyond the rarity and the style of Bulgari’s high jewelry, its designers are firmly attuned to 21st century aesthetics, as illustrated in the Curls, my Love models in titanium and white gold. “Bulgari has an ability to immerse itself a bygone era, since curlers have vanished, while bringing the concept firmly into the present day through the metal, its conical shape, as well as its ultra-light, modern and ergonomic feel. Its modernity lies not only in the design as such, but in the way in which this design is expressed through daily wear. Let’s break out of the safebox so as to ensure that these are not objects to be worn on glittering occasions twice a year, but instead pleasing and pleasant accessories.” In Rome, all roads lead to
“Our jewelry creations feature a pop-inspired vibe that infuses them with a touch of madness.” Nicola Bulgari
Bulgari.
THE TITANIUM AND WHITE GOLD CURLS, MY LOVE NECKLACE, BRACELET AND RINGS are a glamorous tribute to
the heating curlers used by women in the 1980s to create the bouffant hairstyles typical of that decade.
AVEC FEAST OF FLOWERS, la maison honore l’essence
simple d’une fleur unique, grâce à un collier serti de 12 émeraudes de Zambie (45,15 ct) et des boucles d’oreilles serties de 2 émeraudes de Zambie en forme de poires (4,99 ct et 5,21 ct) mélangées à des rubis et des diamants. WITH FEAST OF FLOWERS, the Maison honors the simple essence of a unique flower through a necklace set with 12 Zambian emeralds (45.15 ct) and earrings set with two pear-shaped Zambian emeralds (4.99 ct and 5.21 ct), combined with rubies and diamonds.
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NATIVE UNION Clic Marquetry iPhone case
BVLGARI Serpenti Forever – Mini zipped wallet
HORMETA Re-Generation Eye Contour Balm HORME™GOLD 15ml
FENDI Sunglasses with metal frame and ombré lenses
LA MAIN DANS LE SAC HANDPICKED HANDBAG ESSENTIALS My female colleagues on the editorial team recommend a series of must-have accessories to take along on your Roman getaway.
DIOR Diorshow Pump’n’volume black mascara
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TOM FORD
RAG & BONE
Black Orchid perfume, 30ml
Woolen hat
UGG Leather gloves
LOUIS VUITTON
CHANEL
LE VERNIS Velvet Profondeur nail color
CARAN D’ACHE de Nuit rollerball pen
Léman
HERMÈS 90cm Jaguar Quetzal scarf
saknakorn/stock.adobe.com
Epi leather Cannes handbag
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GREAT PLACES
Favorite Rome hotspots recommended by Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO Bulgari.
RESTAURANT La Rimessa Roscioli, Via del Conservatorio. Doubtless one of the best wine menus in Rome, served by staff with a contagious passion. Original cuisine focusing on the finest Italian ingredients, naturally including virgin olive oil.
BOUTIQUE New Curiosity Shop, Via dei Condotti, an art concept store unique in the world, run by Bulgari.
HOTEL The First Roma, Via del Vantaggio. Contemporary and perfectly located, this first-class establishment houses an art boutique.
BAR Russia Hotel bar, for its garden and its pleasant setting.
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The Falconer limited edition
Limited Edition to 188 Fountain and Roller Ball Pens Ivory resin, sterling silver and Florentine calf leather 23Kt Palladium Dream-touch nib Crafted central ring and hand painted body
VISCONTI srl | Via dell’Osservatorio, 120 | 50141 Florence - Italy | Tel. +39 055 45652.1 | www.visconti.it
PHOTOSHOOT PHOTOGRAPHY AND STYLING : EDOUARD HAEGI MANNEQUIN / MODEL : LAURA RUIZ
A
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utumn colors and outfits from Bongénie Grieder inspired our photoshoot, as did the variety and creativity of the watch brands thus staged. Change watches with the seasons !
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
TAG HEUER
MONACO
GILET / SLEEVELESS VEST SWEATER (FUZZ NOT FUR), PULL / PULL (BONGÉNIE GRIEDER)
AUDEMARS PIGUET
ROYAL OAK DOUBLE BALANCE WHEEL OPENWORKED ENSEMBLE CACHEMIRE / CASHMERE ENSEMBLE (BONGÉNIE GRIEDER)
CHOPARD
HAPPY SPORT (BUCHERER BLUE EDITIONS)
BUCHERER
FINE JEWELLERY « B DIMENSION » ROBE / DRESS (PREEN)
FABERGÉ
LADY COMPLIQUÉE PEACOCK ROBE / DRESS (TEMPERLEY LONDON)
JACOB & CO.
BRILLIANT POCKET WATCH PENDANT TOP (FABIANA FILIPPI)
JAQUET DROZ
LADY 8 PETITE
CARDIGAN (QUANTUM COURAGE), PULL CACHEMIRE / CASHMERE SWEATER (BONGÉNIE GRIEDER), PANTALON CUIR / LEATHER TROUSERS (ARMA)
VACHERON CONSTANTIN HISTORIQUES AMERICAN 1921 ROBE / DRESS (VILSHENKO)
Reine de Naples Day / Night
in every woman is a queen
BREGUET BOUTIQUE – DUBAI MALL
DUBAI (UAE)
+ 9 7 1 4 3 3 9 8 7 5 6 – W W W. B R E G U E T. C O M