Interviews Marco Tedeschi CEO RJ
Exeptional Watches Roger Dubuis Rebellion
ARRAW, the rebirth of RJ
Focus Formex
GMT ME No 14 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2018
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MASTER CHRONOMETER: RAISING STANDARDS
Behind the elegance of every Master Chronometer timepiece is the highest level of testing: 8 tests over 10 days, to ensure superior precision and anti-magnetic resistance. We’ve raised our standards. You can too.
SPEEDMASTER RACING 44.25 MM
More information available at OMEGA Middle East, Emirates Towers, Dubai, UAE. Tel: +971 4 3300455
C r e a t i n g n ew h e i g h t s The new Montblanc 1858 Geosphere. Spirit of Mountain Exploration. montblanc.com/1858
TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE HEUER 01 TAG Heuer is the Official Timekeeper and Team Performance Partner of Aston Martin Red Bull Racing. Two teams who #DontCrackUnderPressure both on and off the track.
We’re devoted to the classic. But reject the status quo. We keep the best of the past. The best watchmaking practices, the best designs. And push the boundaries of what’s new. Born for a purpose. Field-tested to the extreme. For those who are up for anything. Those who face their fears. Those who reinvent themselves every day. A TUDOR is #BornToDare
BLACK BAY 36
Récital 22 Grand Récital
5-patent timepiece developed and manufactured in-house. Limited edition of 60 movements. 5-year international warranty. Hours around the hand-painted hemispherical Earth. Retrograde minutes. Seconds on the double face flying tourbillon. Double face date. Tri-dimensional precision moon phase. 9-day power reserve. Retrograde perpetual calendar on the reverse side.
PLEASE VISIT US AT BOVET.COM
AHMED SEDDIQI & SONS, DUBAI I AL MANARA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY, ABU DHABI I AL AWADI, SULTANATE OF OMAN ASIA JEWELLERS, BAHRAIN I ATAMIAN, LEBANON I BEHBEHANI, KUWAIT I BLUE SALON, QATAR I KASHTIARAY, IRAN
F O U N D I N G M E M B E R O F T H E Q U A L I T Y F L E U R I E R C E R T I F I CAT I O N A N D PA R T N E R O F T H E F O U N DAT I O N H I G H H O R O L O G Y
DEF Y EL PRIMERO 21
Z E N I T H , T H E F U T U R E O F S W I S S W AT C H M A K I N G
w w w . z e n i t h - w a t c h e s . c o m
EXCLUSIVE AGENT BONUS EVENTUS FZE Phone : +971 552 255 343 Email : jbeainy@bonuseventus.ae
Abu Dhabi U.A.E.
Kuwait
Qatar
HOUSE OF ART Watches & Jewellery The Mall at World Trade Center Abu Dhabi – U.A.E. Phone +971 2 674 52 57 Phone +971 50 667 76 23 Email: hoart@emirates.net.ae
BEHBEHANI WATCH WORLD Ring Road 5, The Avenues Mall, Unit: GL – 103 Al Rai - KUWAIT Phone: +965 2206 0560 E-mail: Watches.Avenues@e-behbehani.com Website: www.BehbehaniWatchWorld.com
AL MAJED JEWELLERY Ground floor, Al Majed Group Building Suhaim Bin Hamad Street Doha, Qatar Tel: +974-44074259
CYRUS-WATCHES.CH
- INFO@CYRUS-WATCHES.CH
KLEPCYS CHRONOGRAPH Limited edition 100 pieces Ref. 539.501.SD.A
CYRUS-WATCHES.CH
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BJC W.L.L Bahrain
Behbehani Kuwait
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UAE MANSOUR JEWELLERS (ABU DHABI) - 02 626 4260 | MANSOUR JEWELLERS (DUBAI) - 04 228 1115 PARIS GALLERY (DUBAI) - 04 330 8289 | LEVANT (DUBAI) - 04 434 1227
QATAR - BLUE SALON - 04 446 6111 KUWAIT - TRAFALGAR GENERAL TRADING - 188 1188 SAUDI ARABIA - AL GHAZALI TRADING RIYADH - 011 474 4000 | JEDDAH - 012 647 3000 | KHOBAR - 013 898 0040
Editorial Autumn 2018
Dear GMT Middle East readers, SUMMER OFFICIALLY LEAVES US ON SEPTEMBER 23RD, following extreme temperatures not
just in our region but all across North America and Europe with heat waves that broke records and provoked violent storms. The biggest thunderstorm came from the watch industry, when, on July 29, Swatch Group announced it will not return to Baselworld in
2019. With the Swatch Group alone, that’s an additional eighteen watch brands that will not be there next year including Breguet, Blancpain, Glasshütte Omega, Longines, Tissot…
Disagreements with Baselworld organizers MCH Group, and a “more transparent, faster, more instantaneous” market that necessitates “another rhythm and another form”
led Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek to the decision. Other heavyweights such as Rolex,
Patek Philippe, Chopard, Chanel and the LVMH Group should continue, however, to lure distributors, customers and media to next year’s edition.
On a more positive note, we have the pleasure to present our exclusive story and interview
with RJ CEO Marco Tedeschi, former Dubai-based Regional Director Middle East & Africa
at Hublot for six years before taking up the challenge to head RJ - previously known as Romain Jerome – in Geneva.
And two visits to the lovely region of Neuchâtel, Switzerland allowed us to discover
first-hand the incredible new astronomical timepiece from Bovet : the Récital 22 Grand Récital, and a fresh, new collection and marketing campaign from Ebel.
Until next issue, FADI JAMIL Publisher Editor-in-Chief
Interviews
GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM
Marco Tedeschi CEO RJ
Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com Head of Creative / Graphic Designer: KYLE EVIDENTE | creative@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com Exeptional Watches Roger Dubuis Rebellion
ARRAW, the rebirth of RJ
Focus Formex
GMT ME No 14 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2018
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GMT ME MAGAZINE NO14 2018
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma © Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.
We assemble every single watch twice. Because perfection takes time.
For us, perfection is a matter of principle. This is why, on principle, we
parts are cleaned and decorated by hand with finishing and polishing
craft all timepieces with the same care and assemble each watch twice.
techniques, followed by the final assembly procedure. This assures
Thus, after the Datograph Up/Down has been assembled for the first
long-term functional integrity and the immaculacy of all artisanal fin-
time and precisely adjusted, it is taken apart again. The movement
ishes. Even if this takes a little more time. www.alange-soehne.com
You are cordially invited to discover the collection at:
A. LANGE & SÖHNE BOUTIQUE DUBAI The Dubai Mall · Tel. +971 4 325 39 23 · dubai@lange-soehne.ae
ME_ARE_C_TheDubaiMall_GMT_DatoUD_WG_230x295_ATMO-067-18.indd 1
04.05.18 15:28
Contents Autumn 2018
HOT NEWS p.52
HOT NEWS p.44
INTERVIEW p.54
Editorial 26 Contents 28-30 Contributors 32 Hot News
34-52
Interview Marco Tedeschi | CEO RJ 54-56 Exceptional Watches EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES p.72
28
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
60-110
Contents Autumn 2018
FOCUS p.112
ZOOM p.124 ZOOM p.120
ZOOM p.118
FOCUS p.114
Focus
112-115
Fragrance Roberto Cavalli: Duo of Fragrances 116-117 Zoom Davidoff 118-119 Carl F. Bucherer 120-123 Chopard 124-125
30
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
LUMINOR 1 950 8 D AYS G M T A C C I A I O - 4 4 m m ( R E F. 2 3 3 )
PANERAI BOUTIQUES DUBAI • ABU DHABI • BEIRUT • KUWAIT • MANAMA • MUSCAT • RIYADH • JEDDAH • AL KHOBAR PANERAI.COM
Contributors By Brice Lechevalier
Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.
32
Paul O’Neil
Michèle Brunner
David Chokron
Marie De Pimodan
The editor-in-chief of WorldTempus. com shares his insights on our feature articles based on his website’s coverage of the subject.
Publishing Manager at WorldTempus.com and an experienced writer, she looks at brand events and products.
An expert watch journalist and regular WorldTempus.com correspondent, he provides content for our Technical column.
An expert watch journalist who presents new models as well as handling the Architecture column.
Christophe Persoz
Cloé Mugny
Edouard Haegi
This experienced watchmaker analyzes a watch that he wears for an entire week and delivers his technical and aesthetic verdict.
An intern in the publishing department and a translator, she is also penning her first articles.
Edouard Haegi is our inhouse photographer/videomaker, who also handles the Watch Photo Awards.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
MANUFACTURE CALIBRE ARF15 16½’’’
MIRRORED FORCE RESONANCE GUILLOCHÉ DIAL
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
Game on!
TAG Heuer announces the extension of its partnership as Official Timekeeper to The Premier League THE MOST FOLLOWED FOOTBALL LEAGUE IN THE WORLD WILL CONTINUE TO BE ON TAG HEUER TIME. NEW THIS SEASON, THE PREMIER LEAGUE INTERACTIVE WATCHFACE, FOR TAG HEUER CONNECTED MODULAR OWNERS, WHICH HAS BEEN UNVEILED DURING AN EVENT IN THE PRESENCE OF FOOTBALL LEGENDS IAN WRIGHT AND JERMAINE JENAS
34
UK, LONDON, AUGUST 14TH 2018: TAG Heuer is proud to announce
precision and sports timekeeping to the next level by unveiling the
the extension of its partnership as Official Timekeeper of the
Premier League Interactive watchface for TAG Heuer connected
Premier League. The Premier League will continue to play all
Modular watch owners. This dedicated watchface developed in
matches run on TAG Heuer time, both on pitch and on broadcast
partnership with the Premier League for football fans has been
across the world.
designed to keep supporters informed of everything happening
The Premier League sees football’s greatest teams battle it out
in the 2018/19 Premier League season delivered directly to their
in the most physically demanding championship challenge,
connected Modular watch.
inspiring the players to achieve the ultimate goal, playing to TAG
Richard Masters, Premier League Managing Director said: “We
Heuer’s #dontcrackunderpressure brand mantra.
have really enjoyed working with TAG Heuer over the last two
Jean Claude Biver, CEO of TAG Heuer and President of the LVMH
years and are very pleased they will continue as official Timing
Group Watch Division stated: “We are delighted to extend
Partner of the Premier League. TAG Heuer has a strong track
our official Timekeeping role with The Premier League. Our
record of associating with elite sport and their new Premier
partnership with the Premier League shows the important and
League specific watch-face and App is a fun and innovative
strong involvement in football of TAG Heuer TAG Heuer were the
development that will allow people with Connected watches to
first official timekeepers of the Premier League and will now see
feel even closer to the Premier League.”
this continued partnership strengthen for the next season.”
In true TAG Heuer innovative spirit, this interactive tool allows
The Premier League season kicked off on 10th August and
the wearer to customize their dial with their chosen team, check
includes many of the sport’s most internationally recognized
match timings in just one tap, follow match events and record
players from twenty of the most popular English professional
full time scores. Within the function of the interactive watchface
clubs including Manchester United, for which TAG Heuer is also
is a custom notification service, which alerts the wearer in real
Official Timekeeper.
time to match kick off’s and goals scored as they happen. TAG
To start the season right, TAG Heuer takes its obsession with
Heuer’s dedication to staying connected!
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
TOURBILLON CHRONOMETER NO.36 ROYAL COLLECTION
Swiss Craftsmanship
www.arnoldandson.com
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
Carl F. Bucherer’s global brand Ambassador Li Bingbing and her watch star in THE MEG world premiere in Beijing sponsored by Carl F. Bucherer
36
BEIJING, AUGUST 3, 2018. Swiss Luxury watch manufacturer Carl
Talking about her role in the movie, Li Bingbing said: “It was
F. Bucherer co-starred with its Global Brand Ambassador Li
very exciting and challenging. My character is a female scientist
Bingbing in the science-fiction movie The Meg. The world debut
who is faced with a lot of challenges in deep waters. During
of the movie was held at the Water Cube in Beijing last night.
filming, we had to make full use of our imagination to act out
The famous actress was joined on the red carpet by the movie’s
reactions and be at the peak of our physical fitness to create
director, Jon Turteltaub, and the stars of the film, including
the best scenes. It was a great honor for me to wear a Carl F.
Jason Statham, Winston Chao, Ruby Rose, and Cliff Curtis.
Bucherer watch in a setting in which I was able to do things I
In the movie, Li Bingbing plays Chinese oceanographer Zhang
thought I would never be able to do. When I look at my Patravi
Suyin, and wears a Carl F. Bucherer time- piece in every scene.
ScubaTec, I always sense a great feeling of accomplishment.”
The sporty and elegant Patravi ScubaTec diver’s watch is
Sascha Moeri, CEO of Carl F. Bucherer, is proud to continue the
distinguished by its technical sophistication and high degree
Lucerne-based watch manufacturer’s successful involvement
of reliability even under extreme conditions, and is the perfect
with the film industry: “In this stunning movie, our Global
companion for her character in the action-packed movie.
Brand Ambassador Li Bingbing plays her role with the highest
With her ability to take on new challenges that take her out of
degree of passion and dedication. We are delighted that, with
her comfort zone, the international actress demonstrates true
her wearing the Patravi ScubaTec, one of our watches also
professionalism. She is one of the lead actresses in The Meg,
plays a starring role in the movie.”
and her character, Suyin, works together with Jonas Taylor
As the exclusive watch sponsor of the premiere, Carl F. Bucherer
(played by Jason Statham) to save a group of scientists who are
is also involved in the movie’s internation- al debut in Beijing. On
trapped in the depths of the ocean and keeps them safe from a
the red carpet, Li Bingbing wore another stunning Carl F. Bucherer
megalodon – a 75-foot prehistoric shark.
watch that gave her exquisite look an extra touch of glamour.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
COMING SOON IN THE MIDDLE EAST W W W. M A U R O N M U S Y. C O M
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
Amadéo Fleurier Virtuoso VII One of the Middle East’s most loved complications – the double-sided retrograde perpetual calendar BOVET’S Virtuoso VII Retrograde Perpetual Calendar is a
beautifully decorated with circular Côtes de Genève. The seconds
complication highly sought after by collectors. It perfectly
function is displayed on the same axis and on both sides of the
symbolizes the unparalleled expertise that has driven the
movement, with an opposite direction of rotation on each face – a
Maison’s workshops for almost two centuries.
highly complex patented mechanism. Finally, there is a five-day
Virtuoso VII presents two distinct faces on its emblematic case.
power reserve indicator.
The first face displays the hours, minutes, seconds and power
Part of the Amadéo Fleurier collection, the timepiece features the
reserve, as well as all the indications relative to the perpetual
Amadéo convertible case system which allows the timepiece to
calendar. The hours and minutes are displayed on a central dial,
be transformed from a reversible wristwatch to a table clock or a
and the retrograde calendar display is positioned outside this dial
pocket watch without the use of any tools.
– a rather atypical display, but one which enables the complexity
Available in red or white gold, the Virtuoso VII Retrograde
of the perpetual calendar mechanism and the exceptional talent
Perpetual Calendar comes with a black or white lacquered dial,
of the Maison’s engravers to be clearly admired.
and with its technical brilliance and attention to detail, is the
The second face of the Virtuoso VII features an off-centred hours
perfect addition to any watch enthusiasts’ collection.
and minutes dial that gives prominence to the movement,
38
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
SEA
NAVITIMER 1
AIR
D LAN
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
OMEGA releases a denim-inspired Railmaster
THANKS to its reliable design and superb anti-magnetic properties, the original OMEGA Railmaster of 1957 was perfectly suited to a role in working-class life. Today, the updated collection is proudly paying tribute to that industrial past with a new denim-inspired model. Although they are now a fashion item, denim jeans were once manufactured purely for the benefit of hard-working labourers in the American West. For a long time, the robust cloth was the choice of miners, factory workers, farmers, and of course, those on the railroads. And their sturdy trousers or overalls would have gone hand-in-hand with the watch on their wrist. To link the iconic material with this new Railmaster, OMEGA has created a vertically-brushed “blue jeans” dial that features indexes and hands with light-grey Super-LumiNova. There is also a beige lollipop central seconds hand and transferred Railmaster indication that are both reminiscent of the coloured stitching found in denim jeans. Most uniquely, the model is beautifully presented on a genuine blue denim NATO strap with brown leather used on the underside and for the keepers. The same model is alternatively available on a stainless steel bracelet. Following the design of the Railmaster’s modern facelift, the 40 mm brushed symmetrical case is made from stainless steel and features a conical crown and a wave-edged caseback with a NAIAD LOCK system to keep the wording in perfect position. More than 60 years on, OMEGA is still one of the industry’s leading names in anti-magnetic innovation and, inside this new watch, the brand has included a Master Chronometer Calibre 8806 which is 15 times more resistant than the original Railmaster models. Certified at the industry’s highest standard by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), all Master Chronometer models are able to withstand magnetism of 15,000 gauss.
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
PORTUGIESER AUTOMATIC
PORTUGIESER YACHT CLUB CHRONOGRAPH
PORTUGIESER PERPETUAL CALENDAR
IWC August Summertime Timepieces THE PORTUGIESER PERPETUAL CALENDAR is the first watch in the current Portugieser Collection to have a perpetual calendar and a platinum case. Platinum is inherently a particularly corrosion-resistant and hypoallergenic material. Thanks to its high density, it is extremely robust and durable. The highly embellished movement is visible through a see-through sapphire glass back. THE PORTUGIESER YACHT CLUB CHRONOGRAPH has a blue dial with white counters, rhodium-plated hands and the red secondhand of the chronograph produce an overall look that’s deliberately casual. The transparent case-back in sapphire crystal offersan unimpeded view of the mechanical inner workings of this sporty chronograph. THE PORTUGIESER AUTOMATIC is in a stainless-steel case with a silver-plated dial and rhodium-plated hands. The oscillating weight is fitted with an 18-carat gold medallion and builds up a power reserve of seven days. The watch is worn on a black alligator leather strap.
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Hot News By Fadi Jamil
Pierre Casiraghi to sail under the Richard Mille banner AT JUST BARELY THIRTY YEARS OLD, THE REIGNING PASSION OF THIS ENTREPRENEUR AND SON OF THE PRINCESS DE MONACO IS SAILING. THE BRAND’S FIRST EVER NAVIGATOR PARTNER, THE YOUNG ROYAL BRINGS TOGETHER HIS TWO IDENTITIES IN SPONSORING ‘SAIL FOR A CAUSE’. IN SHORT, A PERSONALITY THAT COULD NOT BUT APPEAL TO RICHARD MILLE.
44
THIS PASSIONATE AFFAIR with the sea is by no means a matter
won several legs, coming in ahead of Franck Cammas, Nathan
of chance. For Pierre Casiraghi, sailing is second nature: but it
Outteridge and Ian Ashby, all giants of the sailing community
all came into focus for Pierre in 2010 thanks to the experience
with America’s Cup credentials. Lately, the Monaco duo lined
he gained aboard Tuiga, the flagship of Monaco’s Yacht Club,
up for the first race of the Globe series aboard the Malizia II,
an institution of which he is today vice-president. An excellent
a newgeneration mono-hulled 60-footer. For his part, Pierre
coxswain, he has sailed on legendary boat models—VOR70,
belongs to a new generation of skippers; he is a gentleman
MOD70, IMOCA, GC32, TP 52, Esimit…—and won many high-
with no shortage of daring. His main goal at the moment is
profile regattas and prizes, such as the Palermo-Monte Carlo
to participate as a duo with Boris in the Transat Jacques Vabre
(twice in the TP 52 class), the Giraglia Rolex Cup aboard Esimit
aboard their monohull. Pierre’s taste for risk, his demanding
Europa II, the Cape to Rio Yacht Race (a record that still stands),
nature and quest to surpass himself are all qualities he finds
the Fastnet Race (3rd in doubles category) and the Middle Sea
echoed in Richard Mille. ‘I am truly amazed by what Richard has
Race (line honours).
achieved as an entrepreneur. He has successfully created a brand
In 2016, Pierre put together his own sailing team and acquired
that is both original and innovative.’
a new-generation catamaran to compete in the GC32 category.
Pierre’s arrival within the Richard Mille family provides an
Christened Malizia (the Cunning), in a charming reference to
exceptional opportunity to test the RM 60-01 Regatta and ensure
the Grimaldi family history, the boat represented an outrageous
its perfect adaptation to the nautical world, a severely hostile
wager: ‘My teammate Boris Herrmann and I wanted to start out
environment due to the corrosive properties of seawater. Speaking
straight away with a major challenge although neither of us had
of his watch, Pierre shares: ‘I love its architecture, and besides,
any experience with this type of boat. We fixed on the idea of
it’s the first mechanical watch I’ve seen that has bidirectional
buying one of the new ‘flying’ catamarans. It was a seriously risky
bezel with compass, a crucial instrument for navigation.’ It is
wager.’ The results, however, speak for themselves. Beginning
thus entirely natural for him be wearing this automatic flyback
with their very first regatta on Lake Garda, they successfully
chronograph developed for sailing the Seven Seas.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
TAG Heuer presents the special carbon series. A boutique and online exclusive! ULTRA-LIGHT, HARD-WEARING AND MODERN, THIS SPECIAL SERIES IS LED BY THE FAMOUS MONACO BAMFORD, WHICH HAS INSPIRED A COLLECTION THAT WILL GROW OVER THE COMING MONTHS. THE MONACO BAMFORD, AS WELL AS THREE AQUARACER MODELS, WILL BE AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN BOUTIQUES AND AT WWW.TAGHEUER.COM FROM 1 SEPTEMBER.
46
IT’S ONE of the most modern incarnations of the famous
Thanks to the random injection of carbon fibres into a resin
Aquaracer, TAG Heuer’s ultimate dive watch. To celebrate the
pressed at high temperatures, each piece is unique, boasting an
end of summer 2018, the Swiss watchmaker is presenting its
exclusive black and grey marbled motif. A look that evokes the
most modern line of models yet, developed based on carbon and
depths of the oceans. Waterproof to 300m, the Aquaracer Carbon
sold exclusively in TAG Heuer boutiques and at www.tagheuer.
is the perfect watch for setting off in search of adventure while
com from 1 September. An urban look that combines comfort,
maintaining the stylish, sporty look that’s inseparable from TAG
durability and sportiness.
Heuer. The watch is enhanced by a beautiful black textile strap
The Carbon Aquaracer is available in three models, each standing
whose topstitching echoes the colours of the dial.
out thanks to hints of blue, yellow or rose gold. The 41mm black
Also available from 1 September is the Monaco Bamford, the first
PVD-covered titanium case houses the carbon bezel. The dial boasts
collaboration in the serial production of a watch for Bamford
an imitation carbon effect. It’s therefore a watch that’s durable and
Watch Department. It’s a brand new interpretation of the iconic
solid, but above all, light. The full black look, subtly illuminated by
Monaco, sporting a solid carbon case and an elegant full black
hints of colour, lends the piece elegance and modernity.
dial that enhance the aqua blue chronometers.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
Tissot marks its one-year countdown to the FIBA Basketball World Cup 2019 with ceremonies in competition’s eight host cities AUGUST 31 2018, marks exactly one year to the FIBA Basketball World
be in Beijing to mark exactly one year to the start of the FIBA
today in Beijing and will continue to be celebrated in the eight
365 days to go before we witness an historic FIBA Basketball
Cup 2019 tipping off in China. The milestone was commemorated cities that will host FIBA’s flagship competition.
Tissot has been a FIBA Partner and Official Timekeeper since 2008. In September 2017, the largest traditional Swiss watch
brand based on volume and FIBA extended their partnership
beyond the 2019 FIBA Basketball World Cup. In addition, Tissot is also the Official Timekeeper of the FIBA EuroBasket, Asia Cup, AmeriCup and AfroBasket and also recently became the Official
timekeeper of FIBA 3x3. As a true Global Partner of basketball, Tissot is also the Official Timekeeper of the NBA.
To celebrate this significant milestone on the way to the first
World Cup in China, the brand decided to place in these eight different cities countdown clocks, which present the time remaining until next year’s tournament.
Tissot President François Thiébaud said: “We look forward to continue our longstanding relationship with FIBA and these upcoming events will reinforce our relations. Being associated
with such an international sport as basketball underlines our dynamic nature and our values of precision and performance. Offering exclusive services to the World Cup and celebrating the
key moments also give our customers an additional reason to be proud of their commitment to Tissot”.
Patrick Baumann, FIBA Secretary General and International Olympic Committee (IOC) Member, said: “We’re honoured to
48
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Basketball World Cup 2019. This milestone means there are only World Cup - the first played in China, the first hosted by eight cities and the first to feature 32 teams. It is so close, we can almost touch it.”
“The Road to China 2019 is gathering pace and, thanks to our longstanding partner Tissot, celebrations to mark this latest
milestone will live up to expectations. The unveiling of countdown clocks in every host city will enable fans to know exactly how
many days, hours, minutes and seconds are left before basketball’s biggest competition takes centre stage around the world.”
“We look forward to being back here in a year’s time to see the best of men’s world basketball and of course, witness the Final right here in Beijing.”
The launch event, which took place this Friday, opened the
series of the eight events which will last for two weeks (August 31-September 12). On hand to witness the festivities were
distinguished guests, including Susan Chen, Country Manager of Swatch Group China and Patrick Baumann, FIBA Secretary
General, together with provincial and local government officials and special guests.
As well as the official part of these ceremonies - consisting of
speeches and the unveiling of the Tissot countdown clocks – the city complemented the festivities with its own entertainment program and side activities such as basketball games.
ESSENCE AUTOMATIC CHRONOMETER The Essence is your perfect mechanical timepiece that performs in any situation; it’s sporty yet elegant, highly precise and reliable, rich in details with unique features that make it wear incredibly comfortable on your wrist. Every movement has been meticulously tested for its accuracy by COSC, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. Only 3% of the entire Swiss watch production goes through this 15-day certification process. Explore the collection by visiting our Online Boutique.
WWW.FORMEXWATCH.COM
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
The Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph Limited Edition
(LENGNAU, SWITZERLAND – 2018) When it comes to Rado’s mastery
NOTHING TO HIDE
components with black pigment at 1450°C in a high-tech oven,
of materials and design credentials, the brand has earned its reputation. Now Rado is showcasing its prowess in a piece that is straight from the top drawer. Displaying watchmaking ability, design know-how and an understanding of modern manly style, the HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph is a watch that’s guaranteed to get a second glance – at the bar, in the gym, in the office or even on your daily commute. Crafted from matt black high-tech ceramic, the HyperChrome Skeleton sports a stark yet subtle look. Created by firing ceramic super hard high-tech ceramic develops its matt black finish through an extensive sand blasting and finishing process. THE CENTRE OF ATTENTION With the HyperChrome Skeleton, you’ll need to look twice because there’s so much to see – and it’s all intriguing. The skeletonised or “open worked” movement has had its plate and bridges cut away, exposing the inner design elements of the movement within. Encased in matt black high-tech ceramic and offset by a polished black bezel, this is as far as you can push transparency and still retain a high level of readability. With lightness, scratch resistance and wearer comfort guaranteed thanks to the full high-tech ceramic construction, this is an all day everday timepiece that is eye- catching and impactful. This is a watch for men with confidence and self-assured style. If this is the watch you want, get used to the attention, because the HyperChrome Skeleton has nothing to hide.
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
BOLT-68 CHRONOGRAPH SWISS MADE
THE BOLT-68 COLLECTION INCLUDES THE CHAIN AND MEDALLION FOR TURNING YOUR EXCLUSIVE TIMEPIECE INTO A DISRUPTIVE POCKET WATCH WWW.BOMBERGWATCHES.COM • FOLLOW US ON :
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
The new Bremont U-2/51-Jet makes its big screen debut on Tom Hardy’s dark and gritty Venom NOT ONLY DOES THE NEW U-2/51-JET APPEAR IN COLUMBIA PICTURES’ VENOM, BUT IN COLLABORATION WITH THE STUDIO, BREMONT HAS TEAMED UP WITH A RENOWNED COMIC ARTIST TO PAINT THE BREMONT BROUSSARD, THE BRAND’S FORMER 1950’S FRENCH MILITARY AIRCRAFT.
52
OCTOBER 2018 will see the release of Columbia Pictures’ highly
our watch throughout and we’re incredibly excited to see the
anticipated action-packed film Venom,one of Marvel’s most
finished product in October.”
enigmatic, complex antiheroes. With the trailer having reached
In collaboration with Sony Pictures, Bremont has teamed up with
64 million views in its first 24 hours of release, Venom may be
comic artist and aviation enthusiast, Adi Granov to paint the
one of the biggest films to hit screens this autumn.
Bremont Broussard, the brand’s former 1950’s French military
An utter masterstroke in casting delivers Academy Award®
aircraft. Inspired by the iconic shark tooth design seen on the WWII
nominated actor Tom Hardy as Eddie Brock and the lethal
fighters Adi unleashed Venom on the nose of the Broussard, giving
protector. Hardy, who has a unique talent and range in creating
it a modern-day twist. The depiction of Venom (a character known
brooding, dark and twisted characters for the big screen will
for his menacing teeth) around the radial engine, combined with
no doubt have audiences captivated. Fitting with the dark and
blacked out fuselage, has dramatically changed the look of the
sombre tone of the film, the new stealthy Bremont timepiece can
aircraft. With aviation deeply rooted in Bremont’s DNA it was the
be seen throughout, adorning his wrist.
perfect way for the brand to bring Venom to life.
The U-2/51-JET takes design cues from some of Bremont’s
Largely considered a military tradition, nose art painting began
military work commissioned by the RAF’s 100 squadron members
for the practical reason of identifying friendly aircraft. The
to complement their Hawk T1 Jet aircraft. The 100 Squadron was
practice then evolved to express the individuality of the planes
the first squadron formed for night bombing back in 1917 and
and was used to evoke memories from home and life outside of
its stealthy appearance led to the introduction of this ‘Jet’ black
the military, providing protection against the stresses of war. In
timepiece complete with black smoked glass open case back
painting the Bremont Broussard (known as the ‘Bremont Bus’)
through which one can view the automatic movement.
with its new Venom nose art, artist Adi Granov said “The Bremont
Nick English, Bremont Co-Founder; “Tom is not only a
Bus is such an integral part of the Bremont brand story and so
phenomenally talented actor but is perfectly placed to bring
this is one of the largest scale projects I’ve ever worked on. The
to life this lethal protector and his struggle between good and
biggest challenge I’ve found was trying to keep the perspective
bad. The jet black, synonymous with the RAF 100 Squadron,
on both sides of the aircraft. I’m an aircraft enthusiast as well
has certainly made the U-2/51-Jet Bremont’s stealthiest watch
as a watch enthusiast so when I was approached to work on this
to date which we felt lent itself to the darker side of the film.
project it was great and it’s amazing to see my piece of art flying
We’re honoured to have Eddie Brock, played by Tom, wearing
through the air.”
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Interview By Victoria Townsend
Marco Tedeschi CEO RJ
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
A new CEO, a new name, the creation of a Manufacture, and a new core collection: Welcome to the world of RJ ! The announcement came on January 11, 2018. The Board of Directors of RJRomain Jerome was “delighted to welcome Marco Tedeschi to the position of CEO”, effective January 15th to coincide with the start of the SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) in Geneva, Switzerland. For those of us living in, or familiar with, Dubai and the region, we knew Mr. Tedeschi for six years prior to the RJ appointment, for his accomplishments as Regional Director Middle East & Africa for Hublot. What many of us may not know however, is that, as a child in Geneva, he admired the watches of the biggest Swiss brands at his father’s jewelry store, or that, at the age of 22, he graduated from the Engineering School of Geneva with a bachelor’s degree in micro-technical design and surface engineering. Changes to RJ began as quickly as March 2018, when the Geneva-based independent brand RJ-Romain Jerome, known for its inspiration from the sea, earth and space, became simply: RJ. A new dynamic was presented that same month, at Baselworld, with the first core collection of the brand: ARRAW, bringing a fresher, bolder personality of “Smart Luxury and Raw Elegance” with various models for men and women, in different sizes and materials. If ARRAW is now the source for future collections, key values and inspirations from the brand’s origins that date
“Our main target is to achieve integrated production thanks to RJ Forge”
from 2004 have been incorporated into it: the base design of ARRAW refers to the iconic “Titanic” model, recognizable with its 4 rubber bumpers, case shape and unique crafted dial with arrow-shaped hands. This first model features a screwed-in crown, piston-inspired push-buttons,
the 4 iconic bumpers in rubber to match the colour of the strap, and polished, satin-finished lugs. The base of the dial is sun-brushed, galvanized and gradient-painted, before being coated with transparent lacquer; galvanic black chronograph counters are surrounded by circular displays that match the satinfinished SuperLuminova® hands. The watches come in 42 and 45 mm cases in titanium, red gold+, or black ceramic, equipped respectively with the selfwinding RJ 2041 or RJ 2040 chronograph movement. As for the strap, an easyto-use system allows for a variety of interchangeable rubber and alligator straps. For ladies, the ARRAW DIAMONDS watches in 42 mm cases of titanium or 18K red gold+ beat with the same RJ 2041 chronograph movement. Galvanic white or pink gradient painted dials, white or hot pink straps, and 1.59 carats of brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezels combine to make a strong, distinctive and highly feminine look. The watch shown on the Front Cover of this issue is the ARRAW Chronograph 45mm Gold Blue. To learn more about this and RJ developments, enjoy our exclusive interview below with CEO Marco Tedeschi !
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 55
“RJ is a brand I have always liked for its determination to stand out from the crowd”
Before becoming CEO of RJ watches, you were Regional Director
What was the situation when you arrived in terms of product
Middle East & Africa for six years. The leap is quite a big one!
offer, coherency, movements, image, sales % men vs ladies;
What was your background prior to Hublot, and what specific
what did you want to change, and how are you achieving that?
qualities did you bring with you to convince RJ you are the right
When I joined RJ, the brand was known for iconic models such
man for the job? I think that my product expertise and the diversity of my career
– including key positions involving the product, sales and market-
ing – were determining criteria. I began at Hublot immediately
after completing my studies and I spent 11 years there as Product Director and then as Regional Director for the Middle East and Africa. I also served for a few years on the brand’s executive com-
mittee. My assets lie in my product knowledge, my expertise in
the field of distribution networks and marketing, as well as my digital savvy. My experience has given me a macro and micro-type grasp of how the watch industry works, from product development through to sales and promotion.
At Hublot, there is a very strong management organization within
as the Titanic DNA and Moon Dust models, as well as for its joint
endeavours. All these models were produced in limited series and there was no core collection. We therefore developed a first core collection – ARRAW – in just three months and presented it at
Baselworld 2018. Until then, RJ had introduced only one ladies’ model, but with ARRAW Diamonds watches, women can now select RJ models specially developed for them.
We have also invested in creating a Manufacture: RJ Forge. This new entity will enable us to develop our own movements as well as enabling us to be both more responsive and creative.
In terms of image, we have entirely revamped the brand’s visual
identity and retail environment, infusing it with design codes that are more clear-cut, contemporary and understated, while nonetheless easily identifiable.
a very heavy group. What are the advantages and disadvantages of being the top “decider” at a smaller company?
How many watches does RJ currently produce per year, and what
I’m actually fairly familiar with small organisations, since when
are your targets for the coming years?
the watchmakers. I love this start-up spirit and find it highly
of course like to produce more, but our main target is to achieve
I began working for Hublot there were only 40 of us, including
We currently produce around 1,000 watches per year. We would
motivating. The modest size of a company facilitates fast-track
integrated production thanks to RJ Forge.
project management. We are engaged in a process of constant
creativity and while that’s definitely an advantage, it entails keeping up a swift pace and always being prepared to question our own approach.
What are the biggest markets for RJ? This is for GMT Middle East: what does your market there consist of in terms of retail outlets, leading products, and sales compared to worldwide? How are you expecting your changes to affect sales in the region?
What did you like about RJ before you started; why did you want to join RJ? RJ is a brand I have always liked for its determination to stand out
from the crowd. It is youthful and yet radiates a powerful identity based on recognisable aesthetic codes. Being asked to serve as its CEO was a challenge I simply couldn’t refuse.
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Japan, Mexico and the Middle East are currently our biggest markets. The Middle East is an essential market for us and we
are doing everything in our power to foster the brand’s growth
there. We would like to expand our distribution networks and achieve greater proximity with our final customers by opening new points of sale.
Collection Medici en résine acrylique, aspect bois, attributs en palladium. Le stylo à plume Oversize est équipé du système Power Filler. Le stylo à plume Medium est équipé du système à Converter. Le Medici est également disponible en Roller, Bille et Mine. www.visconti.it
Exceptional Watches
BVLGARI By Brice Lechevalier
Guido Terreni
Octo Finissimo Sandblasted Automatic
CEO, Bulgari Watches : “the slimness of a watch relies on the ability to rethink, redesign and reshape volumes”
CASE : sandblasted pink gold or rhodium-plated sandblasted stainless steel (5.15mm
thick), transparent caseback, crown in pink gold or in stainless steel with ceramic inlay, water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 40mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Calibre BVL 138 Finissimo, 2.23mm thick, 60h power reserve), platinum microrotor, adorned with Côtes de Genève, beveled bridges and circular-grained mainplate FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds DIAL : 18K pink gold or stainless steel, faceted pink gold or black rhodium-plated hands BRACELET : sandblasted 18K pink gold or stainless steel, folding clasp
Octo Finissimo
reinvents men’s watchmaking Since its launch in 2014, the incredible
then been acknowledged as the world’s
Men’s
world records and earned two major
world records that has continued ever
the Tourbillon & Escapement Prize. In 2018,
Octo Finissimo collection has set four prizes at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de
Genève
(GPHG).
The
methodical
construction of this stand-out line that overturns
existing
design
codes
and
features standout technical innovations
opens up new horizons for devotees of
Fine Watchmaking. GMT has selected
five models illustrating the wealth of this personality-packed line, from the selfwinding model for everyday wear to Haute Horlogerie models for grand occasions. A
quick
background
reminder : the
Octo Finissimo created quite a stir and attracted a lot of attention right from
the year of its introduction, when the Octo Finissimo Small Seconds and Octo Finissimo Tourbillon were both finalists
in the GHPG. The latter model had by
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
thinnest tourbillon, heralding a spate of since, reflecting the exceptional horologist expertise cultivated by the Manufacture
Bulgari. Its technical qualities are backed by crucial aesthetic qualities, since despite
its undeniable slenderness, it retains an
unmistakably strong masculine character. In
2016,
the
Octo
Finissimo
Minute
Repeater (another world record holder in
its category) was in turn nominated by the international jury of the GPHG. The
crowning distinction came in 2017, with no less than two awards : the Octo Finissimo
Automatic won the much sought-after
Watch
Prize ; while
the
Octo
Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton picked up Bulgari set its fourth world record with
the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic, which is the world’s thinnest self-winding watch, thinnest tourbillon and thinnest
self-winding tourbillon all in one ! Lastly, the titanium Octo Finissimo Automatic
won the highest distinction of the 2018 IF
Gold Design Award in the Product category, as well as the Best of the Best Award from the Red Dot Design Award. As the Bulgari Group’s design
CEO
with
points
out : “combining
extraordinary
means creating legends.”
movements
Its four ultra-thin world records reflect exceptional horological mastery.
Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon
CASE : Carbon Thin Ply (CTP) : epoxy resin matrix reinforced with carbon fibers),
6.85mm thick, numbered crown in DLC (Diamond Like Carbon)-treated titanium ; water-resistant to 10m DIAMETER : 40mm MOVEMENT : Manufacture Bulgari mechanical manual-winding (Caliber BVL 362, 42h power reserve), 2.12mm thick, Côtes de Genève motif, chamfering, circular graining FUNCTIONS : minute repeater ; indication of the hours, minutes and small seconds DIAL : CTP with apertures (hour-markers and small seconds) BRACELET : carbon with DLC-treated titanium folding clasp 50-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
Octo Finissimo Sandblasted Skeleton
CASE : sandblasted 18K pink gold, total thickness 5.37mm, screw-lock
crown in 18K pink gold set with a ceramic inlay, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 40mm MOVEMENT : Manufacture Bulgari mechanical manual-winding (BVL Caliber 128SK, 65h power reserve), ultra-thin (2.35mm), entirely skeleton-worked ; surface finishing : black-treated mainplate and bridge surface, circular satin-brushed and chamfered decoration FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, 65h power-reserve indication between 9 and 10 o’clock DIAL : skeleton-worked, cut-out hands in 18K pink gold Integrated alligator leather strap with 18K pink gold pin buckle
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic
CASE : sandblasted titanium (3.95mm thick), numbered
sandblasted titanium crown with ceramic inlay, solid caseback with aperture depicting the shape of the front door of the Bulgari Boutique on Rome’s Via Condotti, water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 40mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Calibre BVL 288 Finissimo, 1.95mm thick, 52h power reserve), peripheral oscillating weight held by three ballbearing mechanisms, flying tourbillon FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds DIAL : open and skeletonworked BRACELET : sandblasted titanium, triple-blade folding clasp
MAJOR AESTHETIC INNOVATION Above and beyond the records and awards
version, and now comes in a sandblasted
CEO Bulgari Watches, “they instantly
and credibility in the fiercely competitive
The variety of materials as well as surface
lavished on the materials. Thanks to
that
strengthen
territory
of
Fine
Bulgari’s
recognition
Watchmaking,
the
Octo Finissimo collection also delivers
something new on all levels : technical performance, but also and above all, a
more modern sophisticated expression
of elegance in high-end watchmaking.
Vibrant shapes are matched by a generous and innovative choice of exterior elements. At the very peak of the watchmaking pyramid, the surprising Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater was initially introduced in titanium, and now appears in carbon. The
Octo
Finissimo
Tourbillon
was
launched in a platinum hand-wound
titanium and
self-winding
movement
interpretation.
treatments,
notably
openworking, is stunning across the entire price spectrum. This is particularly true of
the last two versions of the Octo Finissimo Automatic, also available this year in pink gold and steel that is rhodium-plated so
as to lend an entirely original chrome-like radiance to the metal. For Guido Terreni,
Masculine sensuality gets its iconic collection.
draw the gaze through the treatment sandblasting, pink gold exudes warmth without glinting, and glows rather than dazzles, while rhodium-plated steel takes
on an elegant, silky shimmer. It is all about subtlety and elegance, free of any
excessive ostentation.” Like the collection as a whole, ridges and angles create light and perspective effects that are unique in
the watch industry, to the point where some
customers
treat
themselves
to
several models from the Octo Finissimo
line, which has sparked a full-fledged watchmaking phenomenon in barely four years.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 61
Exceptional Watches
CHOPARD By David Chokron
L.U.C Time Traveler One
L.U.C Quattro
crystal and caseback DIMENSIONS : 42 x 12.10mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, L.U.C Caliber 01.05L, chronometer-certified by the COSC, hours, minutes, seconds, date, world time, 60-hour power reserve DIAL : sunburst silver-toned STRAP : chestnut brown alligator leather with alligator leather lining and rose gold pin buckle
DIMENSIONS : 43 x 8.84mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, L.U.C Caliber
CASE : 18K rose gold, water-resistant to 50m, sapphire
CASE : 18K rose gold, water-resistant to 50m, sapphire crystal and back
98.01-L, chronometer-certified by the COSC, Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, hours, minutes, small seconds, date, indication of the power reserve (nine days or 216 hours), four barrels DIAL : silver-toned, vertical satin-brushed, blued hands and hour-markers STRAP : blue calfskin strap with brown alligator leather lining and rose gold folding clasp ; NATO strap in aged brown calfskin 50-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
Tasteful
watchmaking The elegance of the Louis-Ulysse Chopard –
The L.U.C XPS also opts for minimalism while
the only one not to have a seconds hand,
a case featuring subtly adjusted details, the
This ultra-thin, pure and contemporary model, appears with a brand-new design. It makes
light of established conventions and styles,
sending a modern breeze blowing through the world of Chopard Haute Horlogerie. A finely
vertical
dial ; slimmer
satin-brushed
than
ever
silver-toned
applied
hour-
markers ; wide blued numerals and equally
blue Dauphine fusee-type hands : the graphic new face of the L.U.C XP is devoid of anything
superfluous. The 40mm stainless steel case is fitted with a blue woven cashmere strap lined with brown alligator leather. To mix
it up a little, the L.U.C XP can also be worn on a blue alligator leather strap. L.U.C XP models house a self-winding movement that
fits neatly inside an ultra-thin 7.20mm case. This technical feat is enabled by an ingenious construction based on a micro-rotor. Perfect
offering a wider range. With new dials and evolution of this collection is subtly affirmed
and more understated than ever. Its design is based on the finishing and flair for details
inherent in the L.U.C collection. Multiple variations in materials and colors offer each
individual the opportunity to adorn their wrist according to their own style. Elegance is the ability to adapt to circumstances with
ease and panache ; to show oneself in the best possible light, whatever the occasion and the dress code. The L.U.C XPS is thus an indispensable complement to the sharp cut
of a well-tailored pin stripe suit or a seven-
fold silk tie. The L.U.C XPS knows just how to make itself a must-have thanks to its full
restrained white gold L.U.C XPS is fitted with
a black dial. dial, while the warm glow of the rose gold interpretation is subtly muted by a
silver-toned dial. Finally, the 950 platinum version is fitted with a blue dial and bears the
Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. L.U.C XPS
models always measure 40mm in diameter and 7.2mm thick, a perfectly ergonomic ratio ensuring
optimal
proportions.
Their
dial
adopts new textures : a finely grained effect for the stainless steel versions ; while the
gold iterations feature a sunburst pattern. These slim rays of light are centered on the
logo, placed just below 12 o’clock. The latter
expresses its status as a cardinal point through two applied Arabic numerals. MECHANICAL NOBILITY The L.U.C XPS models are powered by
VARIATIONS
winding via a micro-rotor, ensuring a power
Attired in stainless steel, it exudes the natural
for any self-respecting masculine wardrobe.
wardrobe. The gray of its case is paired with a
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
grained white dial. The precious and superbly
range of interpretations.
in every circumstance, the L.U.C XP model is
easily adopted as the indispensable accessory
62
REFINEMENT
L.U.C – collection is encapsulated in the XP.
elegance of the staple colors in a masculine
mechanical
movements
with
automatic
reserve of between 58 and 65 hours depending on the model. Among the letters XPS, the S refers to the small seconds display at 6 o’clock,
L.U.C XPS
L.U.C Full Strike
caseback DIMENSIONS : 40 x 7.2mm MOVEMENT : mechanical with automatic winding via a micro-rotor, L.U.C 96.01-L, chronometer-certified by the COSC, hours, minutes, seconds, twin barrels ensuring a 58-hour power reserve DIAL : finely grained white, sunburst black or sunburst silver-toned STRAP : black alligator leather with alligator lining and a steel or gold or platinum pin buckle matching the case
gold, water-resistant to 50m, sapphire crystal and caseback DIMENSIONS : 42.5 x 11.5mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, L.U.C Caliber 08.01-L, chronometer-certified by the COSC, Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, hours, minutes, small seconds, minute repeater striking sapphire gongs, concentric power-reserve and striking indicator DIAL : openworked, silver-treated gold, black rhodium-plated hands STRAP : black alligator leather lining with brown alligator leather lining, folding clasp in Fairmined-certified 18K white gold 20-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
CASE : stainless steel or 18K rose gold or 18K white gold or platinum, water-resistant to 30m, sapphire crystal and
CASE : Fairmined-certified non-rhodium-plated 18K white
L.U.C XP
CASE : stainless steel, water-resistant to 30m, sapphire
crystal and caseback DIMENSIONS : 40 x 7.2mm MOVEMENT : mechanical with automatic winding via a micro-rotor, L.U.C Caliber 96.53-L, hours, minutes, twin barrels ensuring a 58-hour power reserve DIAL : silver-toned, vertical satin-brushed, blued hands and hour-markers STRAP : blue cashmere with brown alligator lining and stainless steel pin buckle
which is required by the Swiss Official
At 6 o’clock, the signature L.U.C Quattro
particularly special is its 8.84mm thickness,
uses this display to measure the precision of
the pointer-type date display. Facing it at
contains. It is held to the wrist by a strap of
Chronometer Testing Institute. The COSC the movements it certifies. All the L.U.C XPS models, as well as all L.U.C watches featuring this hand, are indeed inspected and approved
by this official body which awards the muchcoveted chronometer title. It is a token of the
elementary rule of politeness regarded as the virtue of kings : punctuality.
The L.U.C Quattro is one of the gems of the Chopard Haute Horlogerie collection. This mainstay of the Manufacture is an epicurean gentlemen.
designed The
for
modern
12 o’clock is the graduated power-reserve, another iconic hallmark of the L.U.C Quattro, shaped like a 180° open fan.
The L.U.C Quattro case measures 43mm in diameter and is crafted in 18K rose gold. Its
contemporary
spirit
of
its
redesigned dials and its new straps, along
with its Poinçon de Genève certification, make it a chronometer made to be worn,
shown and admired. The L.U.C Quattro
welcomes a pared-down, extremely current dial that is silver-toned and vertical satin-
brushed across its entire surface. It bears
a set of alternatively blue or gilded hands.
and
its
caseback
hand-engraved.
which is exceptionally small given all it which both the style and material are firsts
in the L.U.C collection : woven-effect blue
calfskin with an alligator lining. At the heart of the L.U.C Quattro beats one of the original
FULL-ON PERFORMANCE
caseband is satin-brushed, its bezel polished
ENDURANCE AND STYLE
attribute
subdial features both the small seconds and
The
scrupulous attention required by the Poinçon
de Genève quality hallmark has been lavished
on each of its key details. What makes it
Chopard Manufacture movements : Caliber
98.01-L. It is distinguished by the patented Quattro technology. Its two pairs of stacked barrels endow this certified chronometer with
a maximum 216-hour (nine-day) autonomy,
while remaining exceptionally small in size
at just 3.7mm thick. This in turn ensures an outstandingly slender and elegant profile.
All L.U.C watches with small seconds are chronometer-certified, a token of elegance and of the form of politeness regarded as the virtue of kings : punctuality. MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 63
Mille Miglia 2018 Race Edition
CASE : stainless steel, water-resistant to 50m, sapphire
crystal and caseback DIMENSIONS : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, chronometercertified by the COSC, hours, minutes, seconds, date, two-counter chronograph DIAL : circular-grained anthracite gray, red Mille Miglia logo STRAP : black calfskin with red stitching, rubber lining with Dunlop tire-tread pattern, stainless steel pin buckle 100-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio Speciale
CASE : beadblasted titanium, water-resistant to 100m,
sapphire crystal and caseback DIMENSIONS : 43 x 11.40mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Caliber 01.08-C, chronometer-certified by the COSC, hours, minutes, seconds, date, power-reserve indicator (60 hours) DIAL : finely grained ruthenium gray STRAP : Cordura with beadblasted stainless steel folding clasp 1,000-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
Friends for 30 years Chopard is celebrating 30 years of automobile passion and style, 30 years of absolute loyalty
to the “Corsa la più bella del mondo” : the Mille
Miglia. It all began in 1988 when Chopard
became partner and official timekeeper of the famous classic car rally. This enduring union
was born from the personal passion of KarlFriedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard and a keen collector’s car enthusiast. This year,
gentlemen drivers and aficionados are treated to the Mille Miglia 2018 Race Edition sporting an Italian look with its stainless steel and rose
gold ‘race suit’. The engine-turning adorning the dial, along with details of the pushers and crown testify to the level of finishing lavished
evokes vintage bucket racing seats. Exclusive,
Control Grigio Special perpetuates the classic
2018 Race Edition proves an authentic daily
comes in a sturdy 43mm-diameter case.
powerful and sophisticated, the Mille Miglia team-mate for gentlemen drivers of every generation.
the
collection’s
Its short, streamlined lugs ensure optimal comfort complemented by the integrated
strap in Cordura, a high-performance fabric
EDGY For
racing spirit. This contemporary timepiece
30th
birthday,
the
Geneva-based Maison also presents a new
interpretation of the Mille Miglia GTS Power Control, the Grigio Speciale. The gray or
black beadblasted titanium, with a grained
anthracite dial lit up by the “Rossa Corsa” red of the Mille Miglia logo, the GTS Power
used for driving suits. The caseback provides
a view of the Chopard 01.08-C movement. Endowed with a generous power reserve of
around 60 hours, it is chronometer-certified by the COSC. Owners of a Mille Miglia GTS
Power Control Grigio Speciale watch will be
able to compete secure in the knowledge of wearing a reliable and alluring timepiece.
on this 42mm-diameter chronograph. Water-
resistant to 50 meters enabling it to cope with driving rain, this 100-piece limited edition
features a crown notched like a petrol-tank
cap and piston-shaped pushers. This casual chic model slides just as easily under the sleeve of a smart suit or a black leather jacket. The red-trimmed perforated leather strap
64
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
The Mille Miglia is a story of passion for Chopard and the Scheufele family, passed on from generation to generation.
Le Richemond Geneva
DISCOVER A LAKESIDE ESCAPE A BREATH OF SWISS FRESH AIR AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF THE ALPS BREATHTAKING VIEWS ON THE JET D’EAU AND THE MONT BLANC FRENCH SEASONAL CUISINE AT LE JARDIN RESTAURANT LE SPA BY SISLEY & FITNESS CELEBRATION OF MEMORABLE EVENTS
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Exceptional Watches
JAEGER-LECOULTRE By David Chokron
Enduring attachment
Jaeger-LeCoultre loves to infuse the imagina-
tion with intensity, and to instill expertise with boldness. The Reverso watch vividly
embodies this desire for the unexpected. A
natural, intuitive flick of the finger swivels the case to reveal unsuspected treasures. On
this iconic model, the back knows its place is also firmly front and center. It provides
a magnificent stage for Rare Crafts such as
engraving, gemsetting and enameling, de-
signed to meet every desire, whether simple or sophisticated. This is the place where the
watchmaking know-how of the Maison as well as its perpetually unbridled creativity
are given free rein, and which takes the form of a second dial on the Duo models. Since its
creation in 1931, its emotional appeal has
remained as potent as ever. This undisputed
style manifesto elicits the same wonderment
used for over a century. This artisan-style
pure, almost discreet lines, the Reverso is a
the country, and subsequently worldwide.
cultures.
particular attention being lavished on quality
BENCHMARK
worked for modest customers and country-
year after year. Through the strength of its
expertise forged their reputation throughout
pillar of elegance across all generations and
Production is entirely hand-crafted, with
Such a famous watch deserved to be fitted
dwellers. Over the years, it began attracting
in 2011, Jaeger-LeCoultre began partnering an
aristocrats and even royalty. Today, the fourth
field of leather craftsmanship, deeply involved
continue to use the same tools and methods
Fagliano specializes in the making of boots
remains the rule and each person plays a
with equally worthy straps – which is why,
polo players, followed by famous actors,
extremely discreet and exclusive player in the
and fifth generation of the Fagliano family
in the Reverso’s natural habitat : polo. Casa
as their forefathers. Hand craftsmanship
specially designed for those who engage in the
specific role in the production process.
sport of kings. Established in Hurlingham,
Argentina, the Casa Fagliano workshops
house tools and machines that have been
In 2011, Jaeger-LeCoultre began partnering an extremely discreet and exclusive player in the field of leather craftsmanship, deeply involved in the world of polo. 66
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
and details. In its early days, Casa Fagliano
EXTENSION In this instance, the partnership results
not in footwear, but straps made of leather.
Initially, the latter was the same as that used for boots : Cordovan with distinctive topstitching
and
flaps,
the
material
adorning certain Reverso special series in gold. From now on, Jaeger-LeCoultre will also
use Fagliano Collection calfskin leathers, selected from the finest available, and as
Reverso Tribute Duo Casa Fagliano Limited Edition
CASE : 18K pink gold, two sapphire crystals, water-resistant to
30m DIMENSIONS : 49.4 x 29.9mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding Caliber 854/2, hours, minutes and small seconds on the front, dual time-zone and day/night indicator on the back DIAL : satin-brushed slate gray on the front, Clous de Paris hobnail guilloché pattern on the back, applied hour-markers STRAP : Casa Fagliano two-tone Cordovan leather strap, 18K pink gold folding clasp
ever prepared and sewn by Casa Fagliano.
slate gray dial bears hand-applied hour-
Argentinean Maison. When one of the
selection of Reverso models encompassing
also features a rounded small seconds coun-
in hand with the Manufacture Jaeger-
They will however be intended for a new every type, and this time with steel cases. PRESTIGE In 2018, to underscore the exclusive nature of this cooperation, a pink gold Reverso Tribute Duo is being issued in a 100-piece limited
series on a two-tone Cordovan leather strap, betokening remarkable expertise. This exceptional model that will delight devotees of col-
lector’s objects will be available exclusively from Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques. A supremely
subtle demonstration of the skills cultivated
by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Reverso Tribute Duo
markers echoing the Dauphine-type hands. It
ter adding a gentle touch to the pure, geometrical lines typical of the Art Deco movement
and reflecting the “1931” inspiration of this
watch. On the back, local time is expressed on a silver-toned dial elegantly playing with
light thanks to two juxtaposed finishes : a Clous de Paris hobnail guilloché pattern around the outside, and a central opaline fin-
ish. The day/night indicator strengthens the
presence of rounded lines and accentuates
the personality of this distinctive watch face. RARENESS
exudes discreet and timeless elegance in its
The warm tone of the pink gold makes a
provide two contrasting dials with a refined
Fagliano Edition Cordovan leather strap,
pink gold case. The Duo concept enables it to design, each bearing a separate timezone dis-
play. On the front, the sunburst satin-brushed
pleasant match with the two-tone Casa specially
created
and
hand-crafted
for
this watch by the artisans of the famous
world’s greatest bootmakers works hand LeCoultre, the result is a pinnacle of fine
craftsmanship. Entirely in keeping with an ancestral tradition, Casa Fagliano fashions
a soft and supple leather renowned for its sturdiness. For the Reverso Tribute Duo,
the two-tone strap combines a light brown with a darker brown on the flap, tone-ontone hemmed and stitched on either side of the case gadroons. Each hand-made
strap reveals a patina and finishing that make it entirely unique. Engraved on the
caseback, the “Limited Edition – One of 100” inscription underscores the exclusive
nature of this exclusive watch that will be
available from Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques. An aura of refinement that will appeal to those who appreciate the authentic and original essence of artisanship.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 67
Reverso Classic Small Seconds Medium
CASE : stainless steel,
sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30m DIMENSIONS : 42.9 x 25.5mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, Caliber 822/2, hours, minutes, small seconds DIAL : silver-toned, guilloché-patterned and vertical brushed STRAP : chocolate brown Fagliano Collection calfskin leather with stainless steel folding clasp
Reverso Tribute Small Seconds
CASE : stainless steel, sapphire crystal, water-resistant to
30m DIMENSIONS : 45.6 x 27.4mm, 8.5mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, Caliber 822/2, hours, minutes, small seconds DIAL : sunburst blue, applied hour-markers STRAP : blue Fagliano Collection calfskin leather with stainless steel folding clasp
Reverso Classic Duo Large
CASE : stainless steel, two sapphire crystals, water-resistant to 30m DIMENSIONS : 47 x 28.3mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, Caliber 854/2,
hours, minutes and small secodns on the front, second timezone and day/night indicator on the back DIAL : silver-toned, guilloché-patterned on the front, black with Clous de Paris hobnail guilloché motif on the back STRAP : chocolate brown Fagliano Collection calfskin leather with stainless steel folding clasp
Straps across the range Casa Fagliano straps are no longer reserved for limited series, as Jaeger-LeCoultre now teams Fagliano Collection straps with a
representative selection of models covering the broad Reverso range. The Reverso Tribute
Small Seconds stands out through the ideal
proportions of its case, as well as its lighttextured colorful dials bearing Dauphine
hands and applied hour-markers. Powered by a
mechanical manual-winding movement, the Reverso Tribute Duo models are distinguished by a slimmer profile.
Pythagorean tradition. Available in three
dial
in a man’s or woman’s wardrobe. The black
the Manufacture has developed and produced
sizes, the Reverso Classic is equally at home
and white front dial, shared by all models of the Reverso Classic collection, features a
guilloché-patterned center and verticallybrushed exterior. The back is the perfect
place to give free rein to the imagination
such as with an engraving. It reveals what
one wishes to say about oneself, or to keep secretly hidden inside the carrier.
The Reverso Classic has achieved an iconic status that naturally sets it apart. Its Art
Deco inspiration, its geometrical case, its gadroons,
its
straight
Arabic
numerals
and its railway-type minute track all make
light of the passing of time and fleeting fashions. It draws its force from the Golden Number : the ratio between the length and
breadth of its case derived from the ancient
68
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
The an
Reverso
Classic
unexpected
Large
effect,
Duo
with
an
additional
timezone.
movements capable of driving indications
displayed on two separate dials. The brushed and guilloché front dial bears a day/night indicator at 6 o’clock linked with local time ; while home time appears on the back by
means of a black dial adorned with a Clous de Paris hobnail motif and broad stamped
hour-markers. Instead of the traditional 12 o’clock numeral, the Jaeger-LeCoultre anchor
FUNCTIONAL ORIGINAL
indicating
Capitalizing on the principle of reversibility,
a
creates second
symbol
dominates
this
sunbeam-style
composition contrasting with the linearity of the front dial.
Jaeger-LeCoultre now teams Fagliano Collection straps with a representative selection of models covering the broad Reverso range.
Exceptional Watches
PATEK PHILIPPE By David Chokron
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time REF. 5524R
CASE : 18K rose gold, sapphire crystal and caseback,
water-resistant to 60m, screw-lock pushers for correcting local time DIAMETER : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Caliber 324 S C FUS, local-time hours, home-time hours, minutes, seconds, local and home-time day/night aperturetype indication, local date DIAL : sunburst brown, graded shades of black, applied gold numerals with luminescent coating STRAP : vintage brown leather with rose gold pin buckle
In full flight Launched in 2015 in a white gold case teamed
with a blue dial, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time reference 5524 now comes in a new rose gold version framing a brown dial adorned with a
black shaded effect. A refined exterior for this
original watch paying tribute to the Patek Philippe tradition of aviator watches. This ref. 5524R is a fresh reminder of the contribution to the history of airborne adventures made by
the Geneva-based family-owned Manufacture. The Wright brothers’ first flight took place in
1903, and Charles Lindbergh became the first pilot to fly across the Atlantic in 1927. During the years between these two milestones, watchmaking experienced a crucial evolution,
moving from waistcoat pockets to wrists.
Moreover, just as sailors had done from the
almost 80 years, Patek Philippe watches have
watch as a navigating instrument. Based
simplicity. In cooperation with the brilliant
18th century onwards, aviators also used the
on an idea put forward by Philip van Horn
Weems and enriched by suggestions from Charles Lindbergh, the “hour angle watch”
serving to calculate positions in a simple, fast and accurate manner was created. Patek
Philippe developed two of these hour angle wristwatches, also called siderometers and now part of the Patek Philippe Museum. ICONIC COMPLICATION The Calatrava Pilot Travel time ref. 5524R is a
resolutely masculine watch, an accurate and reliable watch with a dual-time display. For
The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524R is a reminder that Patek Philippe played its part in pioneering aviation adventures. 70
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
been solving time-zone issues with peerless
watchmaker Louis Cottier, the Manufacture developed its first “World Time” watches in the 1930s. In 1959, it filed the first patent for the Travel Time mechanism. TIMEKEEPING ENGINE This sophisticated device is built into self-
winding Caliber 324 C FUS, featuring central
seconds, a pointer-type date and a 21-carat gold
rotor.
The
legendary
movement
is
meticulously decorated and embodies the pinnacle of mechanical horology thanks to
the Gyromax balance wheel, teamed with
a Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar®, a proprietary silicon material. The matchless
properties of the latter material, as well as the patented geometry of the balance
spring, guarantee the excellent reliability and
extreme rating precision required by the Patek Philippe Seal, corresponding to a tolerance
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time REF. 7234R
CASE : 18K rose gold, sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 60m, screw-
lock pushers for correcting local time DIAMETER : 37.5mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Caliber 324 S C FUS, local-time hours, hometime hours, minutes, seconds, local and home-time day/night aperture-type indication, local date DIAL : sunburst brown, graded shades of black, applied gold numerals with luminescent coating STRAP : vintage brown leather with rose gold pin buckle
of just –3/+2 seconds per day. A transparent
dark. The “1” numeral on the pointer-type
eminently refined movement.
a subdial at 6 o’clock.
sapphire caseback provides a clear view of the
date display stands out in bright orange on
ERGONOMICS
DISPLAYS
The classically understated face of the Pilot
Self-winding
diameter) rose gold Calatrava-style case.
dual-time display system. All the user needs
Travel Time is matched by a large (42mmThe crown and the two time-zone pushers
at 8 o’clock (+1 hour) and 10 o’clock (–1 hour) bear a raised fluted pattern ensuring
the ergonomics and the technical touch expected of a precision instrument. These
pushers also come with a patented security system – which involves first unlocking them
with
a
one-quarter
turn,
before
relocking them by another turn in the
opposite direction – serving to prevent any
accidental deregulation of local time. The
dial legibility, reflecting its aeronautical inspiration,
is
reinforced
by
applied
hollowed rose gold numerals filled with a
white luminescent coating, as well as large
baton-type hands that are also visible in the
Caliber
324
S
C
FUS
is
distinguished by its highly user-friendly to do is press one of the pushers on the
left side of the case to move the local time either clockwise (with the lower pusher) or
counterclockwise (via the upper pusher) in one-hour increments. Meanwhile, the cut-out
hand keeps track of home time. The two time zones are equipped with day/night indicators (apertures at 9 and 3 o’clock). When the user is not traveling, the two hours hands
remain perfectly superimposed and form a single entity. The new Calatrava Pilot Travel
Time reference 5524R is fitted with a vintage
brown calfskin strap. It is secured by a rose gold clevis prong buckle reminiscent of the
harnesses that allowed pilots to keep their survival kits readily deployable at any time.
TRAVEL TIME FOR LADIES The feminine version of the Calatrava Pilot
Travel Time, reference 7234R-001, combines a 37.5mm rose gold case with a brown dial in the same subtle black gradation towards
the periphery. This watch with dual-time display and date indication linked to local
time is also the first self-winding Travel Time watch in the ladies’ collection from
the Manufacture. With a model closely resembling its masculine counterpart, Patek
Philippe is continuing to enrich its range of complicated feminine watches.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I
71
Perpetual calendar chronograph REF. 5270P
CASE : platinum, sapphire crystal, interchangeable sapphire crystal and platinum
caseback, water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 41mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manualwinding, Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q, hours, minutes, small seconds, instantaneous 30-minute chronograph counter, aperture-type perpetual calendar and pointer-type date display, moon phases DIAL : opaline gold-toned with blackened gold applied numerals, tachymeter scale STRAP : glossy chocolate brown square-scales alligator leather, with platinum folding clasp
Mixed doubles
Heir to a classic Patek Philippe watch since
MECHANICAL MARVEL
1941, the reference 5270 perpetual calendar
Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q – the first perpetual
chronograph was launched in 2011 in a white gold case, followed in 2015 by a rose
gold version. The Manufacture pays tribute to the technical sophistication of this Grande
Complication by adorning it for the first
time in the most precious metal of all : platinum. The opaline gold-toned dial, with
blackened gold applied numerals, stands out
by its vintage touch, combined with extreme
legibility. Its layout recalls the most famous examples of this type of watch : day and month in a double aperture at 12 o’clock,
pointer-type date at 6 o’clock with integrated
moonphase window, small seconds at 9 o’clock
and 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. These displays are complemented by two small round
apertures for the day/night indication and leap-year cycle. The tachymeter scale running around the dial serves to measure an average speed, in conjunction with the chronograph.
72
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
calendar chronograph movement entirely developed and produced in the workshops
of the Manufacture – is distinguished by its traditional architecture (horizontal coupling clutch, column wheel and manual winding)
combined with six patented innovations relating to the chronograph, as well as by its extremely thin calendar mechanism (1.65mm
for
182
components).
This
movement is visible through a transparent
sapphire caseback. The watch also comes with an interchangeable solid platinum caseback. Like all Patek Philippe watches
in platinum, the new Reference 5270P-001 features a tiny diamond set between the lugs at 6 o’clock. It is fitted with a strap in glossy
chocolate brown square-scale hand-stitched
alligator leather, secured by a platinum folding clasp.
The manual-winding chronograph, an extremely noble Patek Philippe complication, comes in a gemset version for women, and enriched with a perpetual calendar for men… or the other way around.
Chronograph 7150/250R
CASE : 18K rose gold, bezel set with 72 diamonds, sapphire crystal and caseback, water-
resistant to 30m, hand-guilloché pushers DIAMETER : 38mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, Caliber CH 29-535 PS, hours, minutes, small seconds, instantaneous 30-minute chronograph counter DIAL : opaline silver-toned with applied gold Breguet numerals, pulsometer scale STRAP : glossy mink gray square-scale alligator leather, rose gold pin buckle set with 27 diamonds
SHARED TECHNICAL SOPHISTICATION Reference 7150/250R is the new feminine
giving a whole new face to this chronograph
chronograph. It is in fact the brand’s only
female connoisseurs and active women.
face of the manual-winding Patek Philippe
ladies’ chronograph, since it replaces the Ladies First Chronograph 7071 launched
that has proved a great success among today’s
PEERLESS ELEGANCE
in 2009. That was the year Patek Philippe
The cushion-shaped case has been replaced
for women : a model actually equipped with
gold case, enhanced by 72 diamonds set on
movement
paired with vintage-inspired details such
manual-winding Caliber CH 29-535 PS driving
entirely developed and produced in-house :
curvature,
guilloché
movement distinguished by its traditional
reference 7071 was produced until 2017. This
sapphire crystal. Contemporary style also
innovations. Its refined finishing is visible
new tendency within Patek Philippe : the
silver-toned dial, featuring slim rose gold
crystal with an angular profile extending
dedicated to women. This groundbreaking
rose gold Breguet numerals and indications
7150/250R-001, the only chronograph in the
references at Patek Philippe. The Geneva-
tradition of historical chronographs, the
a glossy mink gray hand-sewn square-scales
collection of complicated ladies’ watches by
of an active life… or whenever its owner’s
pin buckle set with 27 diamonds.
presented a chronograph intended exclusively
by an elegant round 38mm-diameter rose
the very first classically built chronograph
the bezel. Its timeless, understated style is
heart starts to race. Beating at its heart is
coupling
winding)
as the protuberant angles and pronounced
an
hence its name. Ladies First Chronograph
pushers and a delicately convex box-type
architecture combined with six patented
cushion-shaped model had heralded a strong
meets a classic aesthetic in the opaline
through a transparent box-type rear sapphire
development of complicated watches entirely
Breguet-type hours/minutes hands, applied
that of the caseback itself. The new reference
approach has led to a number of new
ensuring optimal legibility. In tribute to the
Patek Philippe ladies’ collection, is worn on
based Manufacture is thus enriching its
pulsometer scale serves to measure the pace
alligator leather strap, secured by a rose gold
(column
clutch
and
wheel,
manual
horizontal
along
with
round
instantaneous
30-minute
counter : a
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I
73
Exceptional Watches
REBELLION By David Chokron
RE-Volt
CASE : titanium or black DLC-treated titanium, sapphire
crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 50m (5 ATM) DIMENSIONS : 38.5 x 40 x 13.5mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, skeleton-worked, hours and minutes, 165 components, 48-hour power reserve DIAL : openworked, black STRAP : vulcanized rubber with titanium folding clasp
Born on a race track Rebellion Timepieces is a challenger in the
world of Swiss watchmaking. Its passion for independence and a zero-compromise
attitude enabled the creation of the company and continue to guide its development day by day. While sharing the same DNA as its
sister company, the Rebellion Racing team,
each Rebellion watch is directly inspired by motorsports. All the research, development and production of Rebellion Timepieces is done in Switzerland, in accordance with the
highest quality standards. Living up to its name, Rebellion shuns existing market trends and prefers to go it alone and take its own
road in the field of high-end watchmaking. The 2018 vintage is profoundly imbued with this founding spirit. ADRENALIN For Rebellion, nothing is left to chance in the quest for exceptional quality and performance. Each watch is designed for those who share
these ideals, created for the self-confident
76
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
individualist, the fierce competitor, the
MIXED TIRES
passionate devotee of mechanical perfection.
Its daring and original character make the
team competing in the FIA WEC (World
collection, with a smaller 42mm case and
Inspired by motorsports thanks to the brand Endurance creations
are
Championship), generally
Rebellion
equipped
with
functions and complications stemming from this sophisticated adrenalin-rich sport. Born on a race track, these timepieces often have
chronographs with tachymeter scales serving
to calculate speed based on distance and time, along with indications of the hours,
minutes, seconds, date and power reserve.
Rebellion Timepieces has innovated in the
spirit of carbon fibers and multi-level dials. The base of the latter comprises a honeycomb structure ensuring absolute rigidity, while maximizing
transparency
and
lightness.
The aesthetic of the dials particularly evokes motorsports with models featuring touches
reminiscent of racing car components such as turbines, alloy wheel rims, competitionstyle dials, brake disks, clutches and gauges.
Predator S Three Hands a natural fit in the a form of simplicity that is so Rebellion. Revisited
in
a
three-hand
plus
date
version, its contemporary design with the honeycomb motif exudes a more delicate, even feminine touch. Closely resembling a
racing car with its date aperture recalling a fuel door, this model also comprises other motorsports-inspired characteristics
including the multi-level dial with its
honeycomb backdrop and its bezel secured
by eight screws bearing the brand logo. Like its big sister, the Predator S is powered by a sturdy and accurate self-winding Swiss Made movement. The case features a large
variety of technical materials : ceramics,
carbon, stainless steel and titanium. This
model is superbly decorated (sandblasted
Black Gold, polished steel parts, bridge engraved with the logo, etc.)
Predator S Three Hands
T2M
CASE : titanium or black DLC-treated titanium, sapphire
CASE : titanium, sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 10m
crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 50m (5 ATM) SIZE : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, 48-hour power reserve, hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : black, honeycomb motif, suspended hour-markers, rimmed date aperture STRAP : leather with titanium folding clasp
(1 ATM) DIMENSIONS : 58.75 x 53.10 x 22.32mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding via a dedicated lever, REB Caliber T2M, eight parallel-mounted barrels ensuring a 1,400-hour power reserve, hours and minutes displayed on titanium rollers, 420 parts, customizable color DIAL : titanium rollers in a customizable color STRAP : black ostrich paw leather with titanium folding clasp 10-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
to its exclusive caliber that is square to match
one sole law : that of performance. Machined
purity : the RE-Volt refuses any form of
tech vibe and its exceptional performance,
angular bodywork houses an exceptional ‘V8
very essence and philosophy of Rebellion.
the passion for motorsports.
features a square shape and a Manufacture
ENDURANCE
UNCOMPROMISING Technical
sophistication,
compromise, Smaller
perfectly
than
the
lightness,
embodying
historical
the
models,
it
the case design, its muscular shape, its higheach of its details expresses and encapsulates
bold
Beneath its superbly streamlined exterior
be slightly tinted) embodies a fundamentally
T2M pays vibrant tribute to endurance and
highlights its skeleton-worked movement
watch, part-endurance racing car, the T2M
and stylistic boldness of a car chassis. Thanks
power reserve. To achieve this, it adheres to
movement
with
an
incomparably
may
throbs an ultra-powerful ‘engine’. The sleek
transparent approach to watch design. This
to Rebellion’s beloved competitions. Part-
that is a perpetual reminder of the technical
is named after its unbelievable two-month
style.
Its
sapphire
crystal
(which
from a single block of titanium, its sleek and engine’ in which each cylinder is a barrel. They are all visible through the sapphire
crystal matching its contours. The T2M
shatters the world endurance record with its 1,400-hour power reserve, the equivalent of
two
full
months.
Its
revolutionary
patented distribution system enables easier recharging with a few turns of a windinglever cleverly built into the case. Such a break
with existing norms calls for innovation and three years of R&D were required to forge its
engine : an original Manufacture movement. The T2M is extraordinary on every level : in
A passion for independence, a zero-compromise attitude, and a single law : performance.
terms of its rectangular, oversized shape ; its design that is entirely different from
traditional movements ; as well as its gear system exactly like that of racing cars. A pure distillation of innovation and performance.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I
77
Asymmetrical heart
Released from the traditional constraints
of shape and usage, the new Weap-One by Rebellion veers firmly off the beaten track.
Equally at home on the wrist, in a pocket or displayed as a table clock, this mechanical masterpiece breaks free of existing rules. Its
60-second asymmetrical flying tourbillon,
suspended between the hours and minutes rollers, rotates around multiple axes. This original
and
innovative
characteristic
enables it to defy gravity on all sides. Featuring two wheel-nut crowns setting the
perfect finishing touch, this magnificent model is as revolutionary as it is unique.
Inspired by racing-car suspension systems, exclusive
Weap-One
Manufacture
movement was developed in cooperation
with Concepto. The hours appear on the left and the minutes on the right, while the tourbillon is cleverly suspended between
two platinum rollers turning in opposite directions and at different speeds. Several
78
to spin around several axes, thereby making this
manual-winding
independent of gravity.
‘engine’
entirely
UPHOLSTERY The movement of Weap-One is housed in
a detachable tube. To facilitate handling,
this technical feat is surrounded by a frame composed of two pushbuttons fitted on the
titanium chassis. A series of accessories will
Weap-One
CASE : titanium, transparent sapphire crystal tube,
detachable, water-resistant to 10m (1 ATM) SIZE : 40 x 25mm in diameter MOVEMENT : mechanical manualwinding, linear, asymmetrical bi-axial flying tourbillon, hours and minutes on roller-type displays, 529 components, 50-hour power reserve DIAL : black titanium rollers STRAP : black grained leather double-strand cuff strap with titanium fastenings, customizable top-stitching with titanium folding clasp
soon be available to enhance this timepiece
through various uses. Crafted in partnership with Roland Iten, producer of ultra-exclusive
mechanical accessories, they will transform
ENGINEERING the
differential gears enable the flying tourbillon
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Weap-One into a desk clock, a car dashboard clock or a pocket watch.
On the wrist, in the pocket or as a table clock, Weap-One breaks free of existing rules in terms of design, wear and ergonomics.
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Exceptional Watches
TAG HEUER By Pierre Millasson
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph
CASE : polished stainless steel, polished black or blue ceramic bezel with tachymeter
scale DIAMETER : 41mm MOVEMENT : Calibre 16 FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, simple calendar, chronograph DIAL : opaline black or blue CASEBACK : stamped screw-in stainless steel caseback with specific decoration and inscription BAND : black leather strap with red stitching or stainless steel bracelet with H-shaped links
Pole position Carrera Panamericana. It was in tribute to
INSIDE THE ASTON MARTIN
decided in 1963 to create a watch that would
For a smooth start on well-known roads, let’s
this day the best-seller of the brand that was
Calibre 16 models riding the increasingly
Carrera stands for 55 years of success that
codes are ther e : mushroom-type pushers,
times without ever losing its soul. Mastering
dashboard-type
this legendary 1950s car rally that Jack Heuer
strategically placed vibrant color accents.
DESIGN STUDIO
go down in the history books and remains to
begin with two sporty chronographs. Two
renamed TAG Heuer in 1985. The TAG Heuer
trendy vintage momentum. All the aesthetic
have seen this model evolve in step with the
black or electric blue dials on which three
successive
stand out in striking contrast, teamed with
interpretations
is
a
daunting
exercise for the watch industry, yet once
opaline
white
counters
Add an inner bezel ring displaying eighths of a second and a tachymeter scale, and the wearer could easily imagine himself in the
role of legendary racing-driver Juan Manuel Fangio. This stylish, naturally automobileinspired
composition
is
governed
this legendary line has not confined itself to merely issuing a re-edition, but has instead
opted to venture off well-signposted roads, like the driving aces of the famous Mexican race. See for yourself with a close-up look at six new TAG Heuer Carrera models.
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
a
legibility. The latter is a must for these chronographs, especially given their modest
again the brand has risen to the challenge
with its customary panache. Especially since
by
major factor much cherished by the brand :
The TAG Heuer Carrera stands for 55 years of success that have seen this model evolve in step with the times without ever losing its soul.
TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 Aston Martin CASE : stainless steel with
special motif, brushed black ceramic bezel with tachymeter scale and Aston Martin engraving DIAMETER : 45mm MOVEMENT : Calibre Heuer 01 Automatic FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, simple calendar, chronograph DIAL : opaline black with special pattern CASEBACK : screw-in stainless steel caseback with black PVD coating and special engraving STRAP : matt black leather with special motifs WATER RESISTANCE : 100m
TAG Heuer Carrera “Tête de Vipère” Chronograph Tourbillon Chronometer
CASE : blue ceramic case, lugs and bezel with tachymeter scale DIAMETER : 45mm MOVEMENT :
Calibre Heuer-02T, tourbillon, self-winding, Besançon Observatory “Tête de Vipère” chronometer certification FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, chronograph DIAL : black openworked CASEBACK : stainless steel sapphire caseback with black PVD coating, sapphire crystal pane STRAP : matt black alligator leather sewn onto black rubber with blue topstitching WATER RESISTANCE : 100m 155-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
41mm diameter that ensures an ideal fit
in-house TAG Heuer movements : the Heuer
going gets tougher, which is where the TAG
pinion invented and patented by the brand
on any wrist. After this warm-up lap, the Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 Aston Martin hits the track. In this instance, TAG Heuer has
shown itself capable of adapting this model
to the inimitable style of these sports watches imbued with an inimitable British sense of chic. To achieve this, the brand worked
directly with the Aston Martin design studio.
01, equipped with the famous oscillating in 1886 and serving to activate the 2/1000th
of a second chronograph function ! Power,
elegance and refined touches are all clearly present but in subtle, discreet ways, forming a
winning combination that a certain Mr Bond would doubtless have appreciated.
The key features of the Heuer Carrera have
been preserved, but with a few sophisticated twists. The lugs have been slightly hollowed
so as to echo the streamlined bodywork of the gorgeous British cars, while the openworked
hexagon-patterned dial echoes the subtle
details of the new Vantage. The motorization is also worthy of these speed machines, since
the timepiece is driven by one of the best
TAG Heuer’s aesthetic and mechanical mastery reach a new pinnacle in the new Carrera “Tête de Vipère” Chronograph Tourbillon Chronometer. MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 81
TAG Heuer Connected Modular 41
The latest addition to TAG Heuer’s range of connected watches is highly modular, offering no less than seven basic models (with 41mm diameters and water-resistant to 50m), customizable lugs and a wide selection of straps and bracelets. The watch features a GPS, NFC sensor enabling remote payment usingGoogle Pay™, a 390x390 definition AMOLED screen with 326 ppi resolution and maximum brightness up to 350 nits, along with 8 GB of storage capacity (and 1 GB RAM).
THE TOURBILLON TURNS SPORTS CLASSIC TAG Heuer’s blend of aesthetic and mechanical
before the finishing line, the pedal hits
new Carrera “Tête de Vipère” Chronograph
Heuer has shown a great deal of boldness
mastery reaches a new pinnacle in the Tourbillon Chronometer. The tourbillon has
become a classic that is interpreted in all
manner of ways, but very few timepieces
have given it genuine technical credibility by appropriately including it within a sporty and contemporary style. From a technical standpoint,
this
tourbillon
chronograph
delivers authentic chronometer-worthy levels
of performance. It is one of the rare models that can pride itself on earning the extremely stringent
Besançon
Observatory
viper’s
head hallmark, a guarantee of excellent craftsmanship and extreme precision that
has been granted to only 500 models since 2006.
Aesthetically
speaking,
this
TAG
Heuer Carrera is endowed with a remarkably
effective design. Its case, its bezel and its midnight blue ceramic lugs create a subtle contrast with the chronograph’s black dial,
crown and pushers. Combined with the blue
touches on the tourbillon carriage and barrel, this color combo gives it a resolutely technical
and powerful look while instilling it with a truly elegant allure. And as beautiful things are often rare, only 155 of these watches
will be produced. Lastly, in the final straight
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
the floor with the two next models, as TAG
and smartness in its determination to lead
the race all the way. The brand has indeed
grasped and anticipated the expectations of
a globalized world that is hurtling ahead at
lightning speed. This year, in order to attract
TAG Heuer Carrera GMT Chronograph
CASE : polished stainless steel, black or blue ceramic bezel
with 24h scale DIAMETER : 45mm MOVEMENT : Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, simple calendar, chronograph, GMT DIAL : openworked, black CASEBACK : stainless steel caseback with sapphire crystal pane BAND : stainless steel bracelet or rubber strap
ever more youthful and nomadic customers, it
is
therefore
introducing
the
Carrera
Chronograph GMT. An openworked dial,
crown-adjustable red-lacquered GMT hand,
two-tone ceramic bezel with 24-hour scale, date, chronograph function ; this everyday
instrument features a resolutely urban look that is bound to appeal. But to win the race
among new generations, TAG Heuer has unleashed its fatal weapon : the TAG Heuer Connected Modular 41. Since 2016, the brand
has already positioned itself as the Swiss
leader in the field of luxury smart watches designed to conquer the hearts of tech fans.
This year, it plans to do even better and find its place on smaller, notably feminine wrists, by offering a 41mm model enhanced with
several improvements in terms of memory capacity and display quality.
The TAG Heuer Carrera may be 55 years
old, but it shows no sign of petering out.
And while its motto remains “Don’t crack
under pressure”, a watch icon like this could
well cause even the most reasonably minded consumer to “crack under pleasure”.
The brand has indeed grasped and anticipated the expectations of a globalized world that is hurtling ahead at lightning speed.
Exceptional Watches
ULYSSE NARDIN By David Chokron
Marine Torpilleur Gray
CASE : stainless steel, sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 50m SIZE : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Caliber UN-118 with DiamonSil® escapement, chronometer-certified by the COSC, with hours, minutes, small seconds, date, power-reserve indicator (60h) DIAL : sunburst gray with Roman numerals STRAP : alligator leather with stainless steel folding clasp
Bringing the ocean
to the wrist
with gilt hands. The hours are marked off by
inspired collections. Three distinctive new
shaped hands in a pink gold color, matching
and perfectly suited to modern urban living,
reserve indications. The screw-lock crown is
comfortable on the wrist and easy on the eye.
center of the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock
by the COSC and by Ulysse Nardin, it embodies
a nod to the founding year of the Maison. The
well as representing a pinnacle achievement
matching alligator leather.
several generations. As CEO Patrick Pruniaux
new flagship of Ulysse Nardin’s maritimeultra-contemporary recruits are joining the
ranks of this squadron. These models will
be stopovers among the many others on the
horizon. In classic black or metal gray, steel or gold versions, these modern and understated
war machines are as elegant and minimalist as the destroyer ships after which they are named. A third version, blue with gilt hands, is exclusively available online from Farfetch.com. COLOR CODES Originally introduced in steel with a white or blue dial, the Marine Tropilleur fleet now welcomes three stunning new editions : a
pink gold version with a black and gold-toned dial ; an exclusive stainless steel boutique version with a gray dial ; and a special online
version for Farfetch.com with a stainless steel case framing a midnight blue dial adorned
84
ON DECK
Launched in 2017, the Marine Torpilleur is the
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
elegant elongated numerals and graceful pear-
Inspired by Ulysse Nardin’s maritime heritage
the “Haut” (high) and “Bas” (low) power-
the Marine Torpilleur is both extremely
engraved with the Ulysse Nardin logo. At the
An authentic captain’s chronometer certified
sit the date aperture and the red “1846” logo,
the best of contemporary watch design as
timepiece is fitted with a luxurious strap in
of craftsmanship and skills cultivated across
Launched in 2017, the Marine Torpilleur is the new flagship model in Ulysse Nardin’s maritime-inspired collections, less formal and more modern than the other Marine models.
Marine Torpilleur Black & Rose Gold
Marine Torpilleur Farfetch
CASE : rose gold, sapphire crystal and caseback,
CASE : stainless steel, sapphire crystal and
water-resistant to 50m SIZE : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Caliber UN-118 with DiamonSil® escapement, chronometercertified by the COSC, with hours, minutes, small seconds, date, power-reserve indicator (60h) DIAL : sunburst black with Roman numerals STRAP : alligator leather with rose gold folding clasp
caseback, water-resistant to 50m SIZE : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Caliber UN-118 with DiamonSil® escapement, chronometercertified by the COSC, with hours, minutes, small seconds, date, power-reserve indicator (60h) DIAL : sunburst blue with Roman numerals STRAP : alligator leather with stainless steel folding clasp
explains : “This is a less formal and more
(indicated on a 12-hour counter) and equipped
Nardin Marine Chronometer. It will appeal
lever. The 42mm case has been entirely
modern interpretation of the iconic Ulysse
to our youthful customers and is a worthy
heir to two revolutionary innovations dating back to the early 19th century. The first is
well known to Ulysse Nardin enthusiasts : the
famous
chronometer,
whose
with Ulysse Nardin’s very own silicon pallet
redesigned with elongated, lighter hands, a
fluted bezel that is fixed and slimmer, as well
as a narrower inner bezel ring. DEEP SEA
Diver 44mm
CASE : titanium, sapphire crystal and caseback, unidirectional
rotating bezel, water-resistant to 300m SIZE : 44mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Caliber UN-118 with DiamonSil® escapement, chronometer-certified by the COSC, driving the hours, minutes, small seconds, date and power-reserve indicator (60h) DIAL : midnight blue with applied hour-markers STRAP : blue rubber with titanium insert, titanium pin buckle
precision
After the surface, the depths. Ulysse Nardin
small seconds subdial with a hand standing
sailors and adventurers. The second is the
known and most emblematic models, the
remains unchanged at 44mm, as does the
Hammerhead presented at the SIHH 2018,
the
resistant diver’s model to a new design. A
Nardin into an era of complete independence.
dial with a finely grained surface instead of
and
more geometrical notching, a treatment
Diver 44mm becomes an ultra-utilitarian
hands mainly designed to create a contrast.
ornamentation, thereby propelling it firmly
unprecedented
reliability
and
opened up the world’s oceans to merchants, destroyer : a fast, maneuverable combat ship
equipped with a new weapon – the self-
propelled torpedo – and which easily held its own against the heavier and slower vessels that previously ruled the seas.” ALL STEAM AHEAD The
watch
is
powered
by
the
UN-118
movement, the self-winding caliber driving the Marine Chronometer. Produced in-house,
it is endowed with a 60-hour power reserve
offers a thorough makeover of one of its best-
out against the background. The diameter
Diver. In the wake of the Diver Deep Dive
water resistance. This model is fitted with
the brand is treating its 300-meter water-
certified UN-118 caliber that ushered Ulysse
new case in matt titanium. A stripped-down
It is equipped with a silicon escapement
a pattern. A bezel featuring simplified and
Thanks to these technical attributes, the
also applied to the crown. Solid, straighter
object in which functionality supersedes
A more legible, clearly compartmentalized
into the field of instrument watches.
self-winding
ensures
a
in-house
60-hour
chronometer-
power
reserve.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 85
Freak Out Full Black
Freak Vision
bezel for winding, sapphire glassbox-type crystal, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 45mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding Caliber UN-205, hours and minutes indicated by the movement, flying karussel with one-hour movement rotation, 7-day power reserve DIAL : sapphire crystal STRAP : sail canvas with black PVDcoated titanium folding clasp
bezel for winding, sapphire glassbox-type crystal, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 45mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Caliber UN-250, hours and minutes indicated by the movement, flying karussel with one-hour movement rotation, 50h power reserve, “Grinder” automatic winding system with pawls and flexible guidance, Ulysse Anchor constant-force escapement, silicon balance wheel, silicon gear train DIAL : sapphire crystal STRAP : leather-patterned rubber with titanium folding clasp
CASE : black PVD-coated titanium, no crown, upper bezel serving to set the time, lower
CASE : black PVD-coated titanium, no crown, upper bezel serving to set the time, lower
Freak, the eccentric
The Freak universe is growing and becoming
increasingly crazy. Ulysse Nardin is propelling
its non-conformist watch into a whole new galaxy. The Freak Out Full Black is the
collection’s sportiest model. Entirely clothed in black PVD with its silver-toned going train
bridge, it radiates ultra-masculinity. Like all Freak Out models, is equipped with in-
house manual-winding Caliber UN-205. All the distinctive aesthetic features for which
the Freak is famous are there : no crown, no
dial, no hands, but instead a flying karussel and ultra-light silicon components. This
new collection is made of titanium, thus
the inimitable “freak” style is the standout
with a revisited case and bezel, as well as a
type movement spinning on its axis, making
making it more affordable. It also comes
sail canvas strap enhanced with topstitching that matches the movement.
Alongside these evolved interpretations of the initial Freak concept, Ulysse Nardin
has modified the technology aboard this vessel.
The
Freak
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Vision
highlights the innovations of the “InnoVision 2” prototype watch. The time indication in
Ulysse Nardin propels its most non-conformist watch, powered by a steady stream of innovations, into a whole new galaxy. 86
it a karussel with effects similar to those of a tourbillon. The design elements have been clearly modified. The new openworked
THE INCREDIBLE
experimental
feature of the collection, involving a baguette-
raised upper bridge is inspired by the hull of a boat. Moreover, the entire case has been
reinvented (lugs, bezels, rubber on the sides,
box-type crystal) so as to create a more open look. The UN-250 movement makes intensive use of silicon, a technical specialty in which
Ulysse Nardin has played a pioneering role.
The “Grinder” self-winding system is twice as
efficient as existing systems, leveraging even the slightest wrist movements. The Ulysse
Anchor escapement is based on the principle
of flexible mechanisms, resulting in constant force produced inside the escapement. All of
which represent revolutions extending the initial one represented by the Freak itself.
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Exceptional Watches
URBAN JÜRGENSEN By Michèle Brunner
Ref 1140 RG Brown Limited Edition
CASE : rose gold, domed sapphire crystal, flat sapphire
caseback, water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 40mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding Urban Jürgensen P4 base movement, twin barrel, 60h power reserve, 21,600 vph FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds DIAL : solid silver guilloché dial, rose gold Arabic numerals, blued steel and rose gold hands STRAP : alligator leather, rose gold folding clasp
The time of perfection The story of Urban Jürgensen began in 1745, guided by a dynasty of watchmakers who made
a considerable contribution to the history of horology. Uninterrupted since 1773, the history
of Urban Jürgensen was given a fresh boost
in 2014 under the impetus of its CEO and coowner, Søren Jenry Petersen. Perpetuating its
founder’s age-old heritage of fine horological workmanship,
Urban
Jürgensen
produces
watches of extremely high quality in which
craftsmanship plays a defining role. Proudly
aware of its responsibility, the centuries-old brand gives time its true significance and value.
For the people in charge of Urban Jürgensen, the significance of Haute Horlogerie calls
for highly meticulous workmanship teamed
with extremely rare skills. In an age when the
watch industry prefers to focus on the speed of automated production and the indispensable role of machinery, Urban Jürgensen remains
true to a traditional manual approach to watchmaking. Crafting an Urban Jürgensen
watch takes time, but such is the price of
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
excellence, and each of them – stemming from
complexity and various risky stages reminiscent
production – is a one-of-a-kind model keenly
feature of Urban Jürgensen craftsmanship is
the variations naturally implied by human appreciated by connoisseurs.
TRADITIONAL CRAFTSMANSHIP The Ref 1741 PT perpetual calendar from the Jürgensen 1745 collection features all the aesthetic codes of the Urban Jürgensen
style. Its classic case topped with drop-shaped
of Grand Feu enameling. Another distinctive
its moon phase, hand-crafted from a polished steel disk in which tiny stars are manually
punched and filled with gold, then blued and teamed with two gold moons. The entire process comprises over 20 different operations. SOPHISTICATED DIALS
lugs frames an understated and refined dial
In the same collection, the Ref. 1140 RG Brown
brand is dedicated to perpetuating – starting
brown and rose gold colors displays three
highlighting the artisan-based skills that the with hand-crafted grenage (sometimes referred
to as frosting or fine graining). The markings and numerals are engraved on the solid silver
dial, filled with lacquer and then polished. The frosty finish of the grenage stems from brushing
a mixture of pure silver, salts and oils on the
dial. An electrochemical reaction forms millions of small silver balls leaving the dial with a
unique frosted surface of immense depth.
Its meticulous execution involves a degree of
Limited Edition with its warm chocolate other Urban Jürgensen specialties : hand
making, guillochage and Arabic numerals. The entirely hand-crafted slender steel hands are polished using extremely fine diamond
paper and secret polishing pastes, then heattreated in order to achieve the trademark
Urban Jürgensen shade of blue. The hour hand
has a rose gold ‘eye’ clicked in place by sheer fit of precision. The gaze is irresistibly drawn to the barleycorn and checkered motifs of the
Ref 1741 PT
CASE : 950 platinum, domed sapphire crystal, flat
sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 41mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding Urban Jürgensen P4 base movement, with perpetual calendar module, twin barrel, 60h power reserve, 21,600 vph FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, central seconds, perpetual calendar, moon phases DIAL : engraved and lacquered solid silver dial with grenage, gold Arabic numerals, blued steel and yellow gold hands STRAP : alligator leather, platinum pin buckle
splendid engine-turning. Urban Jürgensen has
1745 collection. Like the two above-mentioned
of its historical pocket watches in creating
manual-winding Caliber P4, developed in-house
taken cues from the Grand Feu enamel dials the domed Arabic numerals in solid rose gold,
necessitating several cutting processes to create the fine details. MOVEMENT Ref. 2240 RG with its 40mm pink gold case,
made of three parts and topped by a convex bezel,
turns out to be a little more contemporary while preserving the classic Urban Jürgensen style. On this model from the Jules collection, named
after the brand founder’s grandson, wingletshaped lugs replace the teardrop shape of the
models, this timepiece is driven by mechanical
in partnership with Chronode. Comprising two barrels ensuring a 60-hour power reserve as well as stop seconds mechanism, and based on a Swiss lever escapement, this large 32mm
movement is also adorned with refined handcrafted decoration. The sunburst Côtes de Genève motif radiating out from the heart of
the balance wheel, the chamfered bridges and
internal sharp corners, along with the blued, chamfered and polished screws, testify to the
exceptional level of artisanal detail mastered by the watchmakers of the Maison.
The amount of traditional hand craftsmanship cultivated at Urban Jürgensen makes each of its watches unique. Not merely a production clone.
Ref 2240 RG
CASE : rose gold, domed sapphire crystal, flat sapphire
caseback, water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 40mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding Urban Jürgensen P4 base movement, twin barrel, 60h power reserve, 21,600 vph FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, central seconds, date DIAL : engraved and lacquered solid silver dial with grenage, black Arabic numerals, blued steel and rose gold hands STRAP : alligator leather, pin buckle
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 91
The Alfred
CASE : stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal, flat
sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding Urban Jürgensen P4 base movement, twin barrel, 72h power reserve, 21,600 vph FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds DIAL : engraved and lacquered solid silver dial with grenage, blued steel hands STRAP : calfskin leather, steel pin buckle
Meet “Alfred” Urban
classicism and signature elements of Urban
craftsmanship and contemporary technology.
Bienne, Switzerland, entirely renovated in the
teardrop lugs that are individually forged and
price tag for The Alfred in steel might be a gate-
case bearing the Urban Jürgensen logo, the
be delighted to know that this special edition
Since 2016,
the
headquarters
of
Jürgensen are housed in a manor house in Biel/
most authentic possible manner, exactly as the
brand applies to its artisan-style watchmaking. The historical workshops have found their place there, alongside museum pieces – such
as solid wooden watchmakers’ workbenches – recalling the brand’s rich heritage. Despite a
slightly old-fashioned name that is a tribute to
Jacques Alfred Jürgensen, the last watchmaker
from the Jürgensen dynasty born in Le Locle in 1842, The Alfred is a model with a firm footing
in modernity and in tune with the current watch
industry
e-commerce Its
not
aesthetics unsettle
devotees
recognize
92
who the
and
trends. will
brand will
pure
Jürgensen, such as the grenage on the dial, the
invisibly welded to the case, the finely fluted Arabic numerals, as well as the extremely
slender handmade blued steel hands. On this particular model, the ‘eye’ of the hours hand
is diamond-polished steel, like the 42mm case. The introduction of steel to the collection
demonstrates the brand’s desire to address a more youthful clientele that appreciates a less
opulent and less traditional material, while refusing any concessions in terms of hand
These millennials, for whom the 14,500 euro
way to the world of Fine Watchmaking, will celebrating the new Urban Jürgensen Ateliers is on sale exclusively via the brand’s website. This facilitated ordering process comes with
an exclusive and super-trendy customer expe-
rience, since each new owner of an “Alfred” is invited to take delivery of their watch in Biel/
Bienne at the Atelier. They will have the oppor-
tunity to meet the watchmakers who have built
their timepieces, as well as the artisans who
Heir to centuries-old traditions, The Alfred ushers Urban Jürgensen watchmaking firmly into the 21st century.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
have spent countless hours on
crafting
the
various
dial elements. In short, all that it takes to ensure that
each watch is an authentic source of emotions.
Exceptional Watches
VACHERON CONSTANTIN By Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon
Fiftysix® complete calendar CASE : stainless steel DIAMETER : 40mm
MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Caliber 2460QLC/1,
40h power reserve, Hallmark of Geneva FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, central seconds, complete calendar (day of the week, date, month), precision moon phase, age of the moon DIAL : gray, opaline center, sunburst exterior, white gold hour-markers highlighted by a luminescent material CASEBACK : transparent sapphire crystal STRAP : dark gray Mississipiensis alligator leather WATER RESISTANCE : 30m
The 1950s
shine on in watchmaking A well-born descendant, entirely worthy of a long lineage of watch collections distinguished by fine craftsmanship and the pursuit of excellence, the Fiftysix® was launched in due
style at the 2018 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva. Watchmaking’s good fairies have waved their magic wands
over the cradle of this model that is as chic as it is technical, bequeathing it with the best of
the Maison has to offer. From the 263 years of
expertise cultivated by Vacheron Constantin, the Fiftysix
®
watchmaking legitimacy, a design in tune
from a blank page in designing the Fiftysix®.
history and tradition that inspired it, the
choose its name – they drew upon an iconic
peerless precision. Without betraying the Fiftysix® nonetheless heralds a new chapter for
Vacheron
Constantin.
Contemporary
with a subtle retro touch, this cosmopolitan, dynamic and original collection comprising
three models available in steel and gold gets it just right on all levels.
has thus inherited genuine
Available in stainless steel or pink gold, this timepiece bearing the Hallmark of Geneva vividly embodies the combination of mechanical sophistication and elegance characterizing the Vacheron Constantin style. 94
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Vacheron Constantin’s teams did not start
with its times, and a mechanism delivering
To define its character traits – as well as
model presented in 1956 : reference 6073. Its atypical design perfectly embodies the
abundant creativity displayed by Vacheron
Constantin at the time. This historical
reference was notably distinguished by the
shape of its lugs, each representing a branch of the Maltese cross, the unmistakable
symbol of Vacheron Constantin. Another feature that served as a cornerstone in the
creation of the new Fiftysix® was the fact
that reference 6073 had been one of the first
watches from the Manufacture to feature a self-winding movement – Caliber 1019/1 –
at a time when most models were driven by manual-winding mechanisms. Lastly, the special place this watch holds within the
Maison’s collection is also because it stood out
Fiftysix® complete calendar
CASE : pink gold DIAMETER : 40mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-
winding Caliber 2460QLC/1, 40h power reserve, Hallmark of Geneva FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, central seconds, complete calendar (day of the week, date, month), precision moon phase, age of the moon DIAL : silvered, opaline center, sunburst exterior, pink gold hour-markers highlighted by a luminescent material CASEBACK : transparent sapphire crystal STRAP : brown Mississipiensis alligator leather WATER RESISTANCE : 30m
by its guaranteed water resistance based on a
emblem. Its construction and its extreme
sector-type dial. While the chapter ring is
In the midst of the 1950s, the combination
requires adjustment only once every 22 years
and baton-type hour-markers creating a
construction featuring a multi-sided caseback.
of all these elements contributed to making reference 6073 a paragon of modernity capable of making its way through successive eras and inspiring this a timeless collection tinged with vintage charm and yet thoroughly current.
The Fiftysix® complete calendar is the
collection highlight and draws all eyes. Its key
asset is one of the horological complications most appreciated by discerning connoisseurs and collectors. Nothing could indeed be more
practical than wearing day of the week, date and month indications on the wrist, within easy sight. Not to mention the precision moon phase enriching this roster of functions accurately
driven
by
the
self-winding
movement. Caliber 2460 QCL/1 is equipped with
a
22-carat
openworked
oscillating
weight adorned with the Maltese cross
precision mean that the moon-phase function
(compared with once every three years for a
standard moon phase). Available in stainless
steel or pink gold, this timepiece bearing the Hallmark of Geneva vividly embodies the
combination of mechanical sophistication and elegance characterizing the Vacheron
Constantin style. From a purely aesthetic standpoint, the Fiftysix® complete calendar offers an effortlessly refined interpretation of
the signature features of the historical watch that inspired it – starting with the reference
to the Maltese cross picked up by the case lugs and the “box-type” crystal rising well above
the bezel. Historically made from Plexiglas or mineral glass, it is now of sapphire so as to provide enhanced scratch resistance.
Another characteristic of the Fiftysix®
complete calendar is the pure elegance of its
punctuated by alternating Arabic numerals retro look, the surface appears in two subtle shades thanks to finishing effects. The aura of refinement and the visual show continues
on the other side, with the transparent caseback providing an admirable view of the movement finishing. Côtes de Genève,
circular graining and snailing create a pleasing
contrast
with
the
oscillating
weight designed by Vacheron Constantin
specifically for this collection. This polished and
satin-brushed
22-carat
openworked
rotor, bearing a Maltese cross applique and a frosted-snailed finish, represents a signature feature appearing on the complete calendar model as well as on all Fiftysix® watches. An additional distinguishing feature for this
collection through which the Fifties enjoy a new chance to shine.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 95
Fiftysix® self-winding
CASE : stainless steel DIAMETER : 40mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Caliber 1326, 48h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, central seconds, date DIAL : gray, opaline center, sunburst exterior, white gold hour-markers highlighted by a luminescent material CASEBACK : transparent sapphire crystal STRAP : dark gray Mississipiensis alligator leather WATER RESISTANCE : 30m
Fiftysix® self-winding
CASE : pink gold DIAMETER : 40mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Caliber 1326, 48h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, central seconds, date DIAL : silvered, opaline center, sunburst exterior, pink gold hour-markers highlighted by a luminescent material CASEBACK : transparent sapphire crystal STRAP : brown Mississipiensis alligator leather WATER RESISTANCE : 30m
How do you explore new fields of expression after 260 years in operation, without falling into the trap of merely repeating yourself ?
How do you revisit the past without betraying the present ? With its new Fiftysix® collection,
Vacheron Constantin appears to have found
the right balance between yesterday and tomorrow. Alongside a favorite complication
among watchmaking connoisseurs in the shape of the complete calendar, inspiration and
creativity
are
firmly
focused
on
essentials with the Fiftysix® self-winding
model. Available in a stainless steel or pink gold 40mm-diameter case, it embodies all the distinctive strengths of the collection.
An elegant round case flowing into lugs evoking the famous Maltese cross, a retrocontemporary look suited to any situation,
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
an original self-winding movement equipped
Caliber 1326 focuses on essential indications
oscillating weight in 22-carat gold… The
it is also distinguished by its impeccable
with the openworked Maltese cross-shaped Fiftysix®
self-winding
offers
a
beautiful
interpretation of the iconic reference 6073
launched in 1956. While the Manufacture
– hours, minutes, central seconds, date –,
precision and its magnificent finishing : Côtes de Genève, circular graining and
snailing, all visible through the transparent
A retro-contemporary look suited to any situation, an original self-winding movement equipped with the openworked Maltese cross-shaped oscillating weight in 22-carat gold… Behold the new Fiftysix®.
Fiftysix® day-date
Fiftysix® day-date
MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Caliber 2475 SC/2,
self-winding Caliber 2475 SC/2, 40h power reserve, Hallmark of Geneva FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, central seconds, day of the week and date, power-reserve indicator DIAL : silvered, opaline center, sunburst exterior, pink gold hour-markers highlighted by a luminescent material CASEBACK : transparent sapphire crystal STRAP : brown Mississipiensis alligator leather WATER RESISTANCE : 30m
CASE : stainless steel DIAMETER : 40mm
40h power reserve, Hallmark of Geneva FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, central seconds, day of the week and date, power-reserve indicator DIAL : gray, opaline center, sunburst exterior, white gold hour-markers highlighted by a luminescent material CASEBACK : transparent sapphire crystal STRAP : dark gray Mississipiensis alligator leather WATER RESISTANCE : 30m
sapphire crystal caseback. Alternating gold
with a stop-seconds device. Visible through
the refined monochrome dial with its double
22-carat gold oscillating weight is fitted
Arabic numerals and hour-markers enliven
opaline-sunburst effect : gray on the stainless steel version and silver-toned on the pink
gold interpretation. The baton-type hours and minutes hands, as well as the hour-markers, are coated with a luminescent material. To
round
off
the
collection,
Vacheron
Constantin also unveils the Fiftysix® day-date.
Its kinship with the emblematic 1956 model is
self-evident. A Maltese cross, a box-type crystal, a sector-type dial and a self-winding movement are all key features of this undeniably Fifties-
inspired model. Caliber 2475 SC/2 drives a multitude of functions : day of the week at 9 o’clock, date at 3 o’clock, power reserve at
6 o’clock… The movement is also equipped
the sapphire crystal caseback, the openworked with a ceramic ball bearing rotation system
requiring no lubrication and guaranteeing
the movement’s longevity. Lastly, in keeping with the characteristic face of this collection,
this version bears a monochrome dial with a double opaline-sunburst effect, enhanced
by the additional contrast of its two snailed
counters. Gold Arabic numerals, hour-markers
and hours & minutes hands punctuate the dial
of this model, teamed with an alligator leather strap secured by a polished half Maltese cross-
shaped folding clasp or pin buckle, depending
on the version. A retro look based on design codes entirely in tune with the times. A new everyday-wear style signature.
CASE : pink gold DIAMETER : 40mm MOVEMENT : mechanical
Exceptional Watches
ARMIN STROM By David Chokron
Elegant synchronization When tradition meets innovation, Armin
surroundings. When another body with a
Thirdly, it reduces the negative effects caused
Mirrored Force Resonance. Following the
receives its vibrations, it absorbs the energy from
the balance staff. All of which results in more
Strom provides a new presentation of its success of the inaugural rose gold limited edition, followed by a visually more technical
stainless steel edition, collectors can now lust after Armin Strom’s most innovative watch in
versions graced with stunning hand-crafted guilloché dials. This watch unique in its kind makes a perfect blend between watchmaking culture and mechanical inventiveness, two values deeply cherished by the brand. SYMPATHETIC Resonance is a sophisticated and demanding
horological technique that is rarely attempted and even less frequently mastered. A single body in motion conveys its vibrations to its
98
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
natural frequency similar to that of the first
the former and begins to vibrate (or resonate) at the same frequency, by a phenomenon referred to as ‘sympathy’. The first body acts as an
exciter and the second as a resonator. Resonance has three advantages. Firstly, it stabilizes time
measurement, which is beneficial for precision.
Secondly, it saves energy, like ‘drafting’, or when a cyclist follows the wheel of another
rider in order to benefit from the slipstream.
by outside disturbances, such as an impact on
stable rating and enhanced precision. The two
balance wheels are thus mounted in opposite directions. An outside shock that slows down one of the balance wheels increases the speed of
the other by the same amount. The two balance
wheels then tend to attempt to get back in resonance : in recapturing their cadence, they average out and minimize the effects of this outside influence.
The two regulating organs are coupled by a clutch spring, which physically connects the two balance wheels.
Mirrored Force Resonance Guilloché Dial
CASE : steel, sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 50m DIAMETER : 43.4mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, Caliber ARF15 with double regulating organ,
coupling via a resonance clutch spring, off-centered hours and minutes, twinned seconds DIAL : hand-guilloché with choice of motif and color, appliques, steel hands STRAP : hornback alligator leather with stainless steel pin buckle, additional rubber strap
COUPLING
HAND-CRAFTSMANSHIP
In the pursuit of accuracy, precision and rate
Working
the use of two independent mainsprings,
Armin Strom now wishes to add a traditional
stability, resonance has generally called for gear trains, escapements and balance wheels,
each connected by a rack and pinion to allow fine tuning of the distance between them. This
precise
adjustment
of
the
distance
between the two regulators was vital in
order to incite resonance, which sees the two
balance wheels finding a concurrent rhythm in opposite directions so as to continuously average out errors for maximum accuracy.
Armin Strom has introduced a new approach
that accelerates, facilitates and enhances the
reliability of the resonance achieved by the two regulating organs. They are coupled by a clutch
spring, a component clearly visible on the dial side and shaped somewhat like a tuning form. It physically connects the two balance wheels
and serves as a conductor of the vibrations enabling the sympathetic coupling.
on
this
unique
basis
that
commanded exceptional public attention, hand-crafted dimension, enabling customers to opt for exclusive engine-turned dials. Creating
a
striking
contrast
with
the
technical nature of the movement, these
dials will be available in various colors (blue, black, anthracite, red or two-tone)
as well as adorned with several patterns (sunburst, barley-corn, concentric waves). So as to enable optimal access to these finishing
options, Armin Strom has incorporated this
ultra-technical watch into its personalization
program. The online configurator, which already features six of the brand’s most
iconic models, thus further enriches its range by welcoming the Mirrored Force Resonance.
Collectors can now configure this watch by choosing between two different material for the case (stainless steel and 18K rose gold),
from many strap options (with colors such as
gray, brown, black, blue and white), as well as details such as the stitching color. Alongside
these possibilities, the style and color of the hands and dial, including new hand-
crafted guilloché patterns, are all part of this
personalization process. To ensure the best
possible visual effect as well as a high level of quality, Armin Strom has chosen to associate
with master-watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. The dial will thus be produced in his
Môtiers workshop on centuries-old engineturning lathes that can only be controlled
by the artisan’s hand. The complex motifs,
achieved by extremely delicate engraving of a smooth metal disk, are authentic works of art reflecting the talent and the extreme technical
skill
of
these
watchmaking
artisans. They provide the perfect frame amply deserved by the exceptional technical dimension of the Mirrored Force Resonance.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 99
Exceptional Watches
DE BETHUNE By Gabriel Miles
De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius
CASE : polished grade 5 titanium DIAMETER : 42mm, 8.8mm thick MOVEMENT : Caliber DB
2005, mechanical manual-winding, six-day power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : star-studded sky in blued and polished titanium with hand-fitted white gold pins depicting the stars – Milky Way patterns produced by laser-beam micro-milling gilded with 24-carat gold leaf silver-toned hours and minutes ring, with polished rose gold hour-markers CASEBACK : open case back in polished grade 5 titanium, sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating STRAP : extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining WATER RESISTANCE : 3 ATM
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
Virtuoso Within the discreet microcosm of independent
Manufactures, some particularly gifted entities give solo performances of miniature masterpieces in the realm of contemporary horology. Such is the case with De Bethune, which once again
provides a stunning reinterpretation of classic watchmaking with the DB25 Starry Varius. And
while its name will inevitably conjure up visions of the famous Stradivarius violins, the analogy
might well go beyond that. Antonio Stradivari,
the brilliant artisan who crafted these legendary instruments, doubtless shared the obsessive
determination to do better that drives Denis Flageollet, the creative talent behind these
exceptional timepieces. A quest for extreme
quality and inventiveness that underlies the rarity and explains the price of these fabulous achievements.
For this new composition, the Manufacture
has for the first time chosen to enrich and to endow a more affordable watch with one of its most iconic creations : the famous De Bethune star-studded
sky.
Composed
of
a
mirror-
polished, oven-blued grade 5 titanium plate, its surface is studded with a constellation of white gold pins fitted one by one to form stars. The
100 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
CMY
K
effect is further enhanced by a milky way with shimmering powdery reflections created using
laser-beam micro-milling and gold particles
placed in the cavities thus created. Framed by a domed silver hours and minutes ring, the
stage-setting is spectacular, like a window onto a warm summer night sky. The other
side is just as dreamy, notably featuring the deltoid-type architecture typical of De Bethune
movements, as well as the technical innovations developed by the Manufacture : triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, silicon escape wheel, patented balance-spring and the latest titanium and gold balance wheels. The DB25 case is both
slimmer and narrower, made from titanium to ensure optimal lightness and comfort on the
wrist. 42 millimeters of virtuosity and pure, uncompromising passion, designed to stir an abundance of emotion.
42 millimeters of virtuosity and pure, uncompromising passion, designed to stir an abundance of emotion.
FOR THE JOURNEY YOU’RE ON
UNITED ARAB EMIRATES . SAUDI ARABIA . KUWAIT . JORDAN . LEBANON TUMI.COM
Exceptional Watches
FERDINAND BERTHOUD By Pierre Millasson
Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.3
CASE : platinum (PT 950) equipped with four portholes each protected by a glareproofed sapphire crytal, anthracite
gray ceramic lugs DIAMETER : 44mm, 13mm thick MOVEMENT : Calibre FB-T.FC, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, comprising a reversed tourbillon with direct-drive seconds, a suspended fusee-and-chain mechanism with differential winding system, a suspended barrel with Maltese cross stopwork system ensuring a 53h power reserve, and a suspended power reserve via a mobile cone system FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve DIAL : nickel silver dial with vertical satin-brushed finish CASEBACK : screw-in exhibition back fitted with a glareproofed sapphire crystal pane STRAP : hand-stitched rolled-edge alligator leather made from a single piece of leather WATER RESISTANCE : 30m LIMITED EDITION : 50 units
The consummate art
of resurrection Drawing inspiration from the work of a great historical watchmaker a
contemporary
and
reinterpretation
offering of
his
accomplishments is an extremely hazardous endeavor. It is easy to fall into the trap of cold, soulless interpretations resembling miniature museum pieces ; stumble into a pompous style
that can end up being kitsch ; or simply betray
the spirit of the Maestro due to sheer intellectual
laziness. So imagine actually taking over his name in order to make a viable commercial
brand ! The renaissance of Ferdinand Berthoud’s
name under the impetus of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of the Chopard group,
Chronométrie based in Fleurier, at the heart of
PILLARS OF TIME
the Val-de-Travers. Very few recent horological
Devotees
historical and intellectual substance, while
movement powering them and which could
creations can lay claim to such substantial adopting a modern and innovative approach
to watchmaking. These have been followed by three new variations : one identical to the first two but with a 950 platinum case (FB 1.3) ; along with two more contemporary versions made in titanium (FB 1.4-1 and FB FB 1.4-2) comprising
several notable aesthetic modifications. It is on the three latter that we will focus here.
of
historical
watchmaking
well be regarded as a kind of manifesto from the
youthful Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. Built according to the oldest known structure in
horology and typical of marine chronometers, it is composed of two plates between which
the various parts composing the movement
are arranged and which are held together by slender titanium pillars. Inside are several
elements brimming with history and yet also
was a truly daunting challenge. Since 2006 already, this passionate enthusiast had acquired
a number of creations – and notably marine chronometers – by the brilliant Neuchâtelborn watchmaker. On September 22nd 2015,
after years of work, the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.1 (white gold) and FB 1.2 (rose
gold) models emerged from the workshops of the
104 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
will
naturally thrill at the sight of the extraordinary
They are driven by an extraordinary movement that could well be considered as a kind of manifesto for the youthful Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud.
Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.4-2
CASE : octagonal grade 5 titanium equipped with two portholes
each protected by a glareproofed sapphire crytal, grade 2 titanium lugs DIAMETER : 44mm, 13mm thick MOVEMENT : Calibre FB-T.FC-2, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, comprising a reversed tourbillon with direct-drive seconds, a suspended fusee-and-chain mechanism with differential winding system, a suspended barrel with Maltese cross stopwork system ensuring a 53h power reserve, and a suspended power reserve via a mobile cone system FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve DIAL : silver-toned galvanic-plated brass dial with vertical satin-brushed finish CASEBACK : screw-in exhibition back fitted with a glareproofed sapphire crystal pane STRAP : hand-stitched rolled-edge alligator leather made from a single piece of leather WATER RESISTANCE : 30m LIMITED EDITION : 20 units
Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.4-1
CASE : octagonal grade 5 titanium equipped with two portholes each
protected by a glareproofed sapphire crytal, grade 2 titanium lugs DIAMETER : 44mm, 13mm thick MOVEMENT : Calibre FB-T.FC-2, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, comprising a reversed tourbillon with direct-drive seconds, a suspended fusee-and-chain mechanism with differential winding system, a suspended barrel with Maltese cross stopwork system ensuring a 53h power reserve, and a suspended power reserve via a mobile cone system FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve DIAL : beadblasted black brass dial with galvanic treatment and lacquer coating CASEBACK : screw-in exhibition back fitted with a glareproofed sapphire crystal pane STRAP : hand-stitched rolled-edge alligator leather made from a single piece of leather WATER RESISTANCE : 30m LIMITED EDITION : 20 units
WIDE-OPEN HORIZON
enhanced by brilliant technical innovations.
to avoid the watch coming to a halt during
indication of the power reserve : designed like a
does not carry a seconds indication. It is instead
predecessors and since the only real distinction
display of the seconds via a long central sweep-
the only factor that might lead one to opt
movement alone does not make a watch, even if
hand, the FB FB 1.4-1 and FB 1.4-2 versions
This caliber has thus been housed inside a
in grade 5 titanium, they exude a resolutely
side pieces : the resulting overhead view recalls
significant change lies on the back of these
secured to its gimbal suspension.
case middle and initially designed to offer a
First of all, the astonishing device providing an cone mounted on an arbor and equipped with
a feeler spindle transmitting the information to the dial. Secondly, the fusee-and-chain
system regulating the transmission of force to the regulating organ has been suspended – as
has the barrel itself – by means of an original construction in order to limit their respective thicknesses. Moreover, this device that dates back to the 15th century is enriched with a
patented differential winding system serving
winding. Finally, the one-minute tourbillon
The platinum FB 1.3. differs very little from its
coupled with a transmission wheel enabling a
lies in its exterior, personal preference is
seconds hand on the dial side. Nonetheless, a
for one rather than another. On the other
it represents the beating heart of the timepiece.
feature a distinctively new aesthetic. Made
cylinder, itself fitted with two octagonal-shaped
contemporary and technical look, yet the most
the design of a marine chronometer firmly
models. The glazed portholes cut out from the
An unobstructed and spectacular view of each element, which sends light flooding across the flamboyant finishing of this “cathedral” caliber to truly dazzling effect.
view inside the movement now come with all-
sapphire bridges. The result is an unobstructed and spectacular view of each element that
sends light flooding across the flamboyant finish of this “cathedral” caliber, to truly
dazzling effect. The future is doubtless bright for a brand that has countless new chapters of horological history to tell.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 105
Exceptional Watches
KERBEDANZ By Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon
Maximus
CASE : gold, titanium or platinum DIAMETER : 49mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-
winding, Caliber KRB-08 FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, six-minute central flying tourbillon, 54h power reserve DIAL : solid gold STRAP : Mississipiensis alligator leather CASEBACK : sapphire crystal, power-reserve indicator WATER RESISTANCE : 30m LIMITED EDITION OF 99
Mechanical
splendor and extravagance Statuesque, monumental, colossal ! How else
titanium tourbillon carriage, is distinguished
functional, since the primary role of the
central tourbillon created by Kerbedanz ? The vital
makes a complete rotation in six minutes. In
effects
could one describe the impressive Maximus flying statistics of this paragon of horological excess
are certainly surprising. The tourbillon carriage
measures 27mm in diameter, almost double the size of the largest tourbillon made to date. To
house this exceptional complication, the case naturally had to be likewise outsized. Bucking
the current trend of a return to traditional dimensions, Kerbedanz therefore opted for a
strikingly imposing 49mm diameter. Maximus is
by its lightness – barely 1.35 grams – and order to provide the torque required to power it,
the Maximus relies on four parallel-mounted
barrels driving a central wheel mounted on a ball-bearing mechanism. The result is an
impressive performance in terms of energy management,
since
the
manual-winding
movement is thus endowed with a generous 54-hour power reserve !
Beneath the sapphire crystal dome topping
indeed a mechanical colossus that lives up to its
the gold, titanium or platinum case, the
To develop the world’s largest ever tourbillon
73 for the tourbillon carriage alone – stages
Latin name meaning “the greatest”.
designed for a wristwatch, Kerbedanz drew
upon a wealth of skills and techniques. Several major challenges had to be taken up, notably in order to counter potential issues relating to the reliability and stability of the mechanism, as well as to provide the energy required for
its operation. The first technical solution, the
106 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
mechanism composed of 415 parts – of which
a fascinating kinetic show. The latter is also
tourbillon is to compensate for the detrimental of
gravity
on
the
movement’s
precision. On the caseback, a broad sapphire caseback provides a fascinating view of the
meticulous decoration worthy of the finest Haute Horlogerie traditions. Polished angles,
straight-grained flanks, circular satin-brushed
gear trains and mirror-polished screws may be admired with the naked eye, while revealing their subtle refinement even more fully under
a magnifying glass. An anthem to the beauty of the infinitely small, well worth discovering
‘backstage’ of this XXL tourbillon that both literally and figuratively broadens existing horological horizons.
The tourbillon carriage measures 27mm in diameter, almost double the size of the largest tourbillon made to date.
Exceptional Watches
ROGER DUBUIS By David Chokron
Excalibur Aventador S Blue
CASE : C-SMC carbon, titanium container, blue rubber over-molding, sapphire crystal
and caseback, black DLC-treated titanium caseback. Water-resistant to 50m (5 ATM) DIMENSIONS : 45 x 14mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding with two sprung balances, Caliber RS103SQ, 2 x 4 Hz frequency, jumping hours and minutes, 40-hour power-reserve indicator, Hallmark of Geneva DIAL : openworked with black and red C-SMC carbon flange, 18K gold hands with red and black PVD coating STRAP : bi-material, black rubber with blue inlays, red stitching, folding clasp in black DLC-treated titanium, quick-fastening system 88-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
Foot to the floor
The Roger Dubuis creative lab is on fire in 2018. Once again venturing into uncharted territory,
the brand reaffirms its slogan “Dare to be rare”. In partnership with Raging Mechanics,
Roger Dubuis adds two new colorful, ultratechnical, ultra-sporty and ultra-exclusive models to its iconic line. Because Roger Dubuis is Excalibur, and Excalibur is Roger
Dubuis. This series embodies the adventurous nature of a Manufacture that has always
been determined to stay several laps ahead of the pack. This inimitable alter ego has
found perfect partners to make a lasting imprint on the world’s most famous tracks. A serial innovator driven by its passion for creative
transformations,
Roger Dubuis has its
Manufacture
LIVING EMBODIMENT
VISION When visionary engineers meet exceptional
The partnership between Roger Dubuis and
partnerships – with Pirelli and Lamborghini
throttle with the 45mm Excalibur Aventador
attraction
corporate
Gold, both vying for pole position. These
taste for disruptive designs and sophisticated
partnership’s “Powered by Raging Mechanics”
in sync with the expectations of the most
Aventador S models conveys the values
partnerships with iconic brands, who are
echoed in the identity of Roger Dubuis : an
customer experiences, have led to the launch
embedded
watchmakers. In 2017, two new Roger Dubuis
Lamborghini Squadra Corse roars at full
Squadra Corse – were born from an irresistible
S Blue and the Excalibur Aventador S Pink
philosophy : a radical R&D vision ; a shared
two high-performance models live up to the
technical engineering ; as well as an attitude
signature. This exclusive signature of the
demanding customers. These two exclusive
promoted by Lamborghini, which are naturally
likewise committed to delivering standout
avant-garde mindset, a thirst for performance
of a series of Geneva-hallmarked models.
innovative materials and world firsts, peerless
encapsulating
the
customer
own R&D department
that has always lived
up to its mantra by focusing on a blend of disruptive and
materials
progressive
complications.
in
its
DNA,
experiences
the
and
production,
pursuit
of
ultra-exclusive
strengthened
by a customized offer. To
Manufacture Roger Dubuis drew inspiration from the ultrapowerful spirit of the Lamborghini Aventador S engine.
108 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
celebrate the launch of this speed-driven the
partnership,
engineers
at
Manufacture Roger Dubuis took their cues from the Lamborghini
spirit.
The
Excalibur Aventador S beats to the rhythm of
a super-powerful ‘engine’ recalling that of the
Aventador from the brand based in Sant’Agata Bolognese. Like the mechanical marvel that inspired it, this new caliber is capable of extreme performance. STRUCTURE The Excalibur Aventador S Blue 45mm and the Excalibur Aventador S Pink Gold are propelled by the impressive Duotor double
balance-wheel system housed in an entirely revamped 312-part RD103SQ movement. This caliber is notably distinguished by engine strut bars revisiting the iconic Roger Dubuis Astral
Skeleton principle while striking an astounding contrast with the rest of the movement, as if the engine ‘hood’ were transparent. Recalling
the longitudinal placement of Lamborghini engines, tailored to the design of the sleek,
streamlined cars, the double balance-wheels is supported and highlighted by holders shaped like triangular wheel suspension
assemblies. This Roger Dubuis movement stems from the know-how and expertise of the
Maison, entirely reinterpreted to suit this new automobile alliance. SUCCESSORS Like its 2017 eight-piece limited-edition
Arancio Argo predecessor, the Excalibur
Aventador S Blue is crafted from the same C-SMC carbon as that used on Lamborghini
Excalibur Aventador S Pink Gold
CASE : multi-layered carbon, titanium container, black rubber
over-molding, pink gold bezel and crown, sapphire crystal and caseback, black DLC-treated titanium caseback. Waterresistant to 50m (5 ATM) DIMENSIONS : 45 x 14mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manualwinding with two sprung balances, Caliber RS103SQ, 2 x 4 Hz frequency, jumping hours and minutes, 40-hour power-reserve indicator, Hallmark of Geneva DIAL : openworked with black and red C-SMC carbon flange, pink gold-plated hour-markers, 18K gold hands with black PVD coating STRAP : bi-material, black rubber with black Alcantara inlays, gold-toned stitching, folding clasp in black DLC-treated titanium, quick-fastening system 28-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
cars. The majesty of this model is highlighted
by a black and Neptune blue bi-material strap, blue rubber over-molding on the case
and crown, and blue markings on the fluted carbon bezel.
The Excalibur Aventador S Pink Gold
features
the
same
multi-layered
carbon
skeleton case as its 88-piece limited edition forebear,
while
replacing
the
latter’s
Lamborghini “Giallo Orion” accents with
the richly glowing warmth of pink gold, teamed with an extremely sophisticated black Alcantara strap.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 109
Exceptional Watches
ZENITH By David Chokron
Defy Zero G
CASE : brushed titanium or pink gold, sapphire
caseback, water-resistant to 100m DIAMETER : 44mm MOVEMENT : skeleton-worked, mechanical manualwinding (El Primero 8812 S), “Gravity Control” module, 36,000 vph, 50-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve DIAL : no dial, display on openworked rings, faceted hands and hourmarkers coated with Super-LumiNova® SLN C1 BAND : metal bracelet matching the case or black rubber strap coated with blue alligator leather, double folding clasp
Defy, a new saga In all began at the start of 2017, with the
A COMPLETE COLLECTION
presentation of the Defy El Primero 210
Meanwhile, the Defy line is being steadily
model that multiplied by 10 the accuracy
at Baselworld 2018. At range-entry level, the
hundredth of a second instead of the tenth of
watch, embodying contemporary sporting
predecessor. With this groundbreaking new
44. Presented in skeleton mode, it highlights
for the new Defy collection, inspired by 1970s
stylized evocation of the Zenith star.
past and future. Modernity takes on its full
gravity), is a Fine Watchmaking creation
offer connoisseurs a fascinating glimpse into
module. Patented a decade or so ago, the latter
The future was already very much in
gimbal-mounted construction, similar to those
in-house
enriched and two new versions were unveiled
delivering
Defy Classic is a simple three-hand plus date
a second precision achieved by its illustrious
elegance in a 41mm-diameter rather than
launch, Zenith introduced a neo-vintage style
the five-pointed structure of its movement, a
El Primero models and aesthetically bridging
The equally stellar Defy Zero G (for zero
chronograph,
of
short-time
the
21st
century
measurement
–
meaning in the openworked versions that
equipped with a gyroscopic “Gravity Control”
the secrets of their remarkable performance.
compensates for the effects of gravity via a
of marine chronometers. In this modern-day
tourbillon, the regulating organ is held in a horizontal position, whatever the position of the watch itself. Nonetheless, the original
module has been significantly revisited and
its optimization is accompanied by a 30% reduction in its original volume. This enables it to fit easily inside a watch of reasonable
diameter and thickness. For its launch, the Defy Zero G line is issued in four skeletonized
versions, with options including a metal bracelet distinguished by H-shaped brushed and polished links. Defy clearly proclaims
its vocation : that of a complete collection
incorporating a wide range of models covering the entire spectrum of mechanical complexity.
evidence at the end of 2017, when the Manufacture introduced a limited series of 10 one-of-a-kind models distinguished by their
exterior. Defy Lab watches are equipped with a revolutionary regulating organ that is more
functional and accurate than ever before. For
series production, the latter heralds the longawaited
post
balance-and-hairspring
era,
doing away with this predominant pairing that has for centuries formed the beating heart of most mechanical watches.
110 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
The star of the Defy collection, the Defy Zero G is a Fine Watchmaking creation equipped with the patented “Gravity Control” module.
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Focus
FORMEX
By Fadi Jamil
112 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Highly accurate and precise
Essence A high-quality Swiss Made Chronometer that fits into all sorts of situations. Work? No sweat. Casual night out? No problem. Dinner date? Easy. Weekend knock around? Perfect. At 43mm, the Essence is just the right size, not too big, not too small. Elegant and casual at the same time, this watch reveals a pure wealth of details and is by far the most accessible officially COSC-certified Swiss Made Chronometer on the premium watch market. The Formex Essence Automatic Chronometer is equipped with the Sellita SW200-1 Automatic (self-winding) mechanical movement, officially certified by COSC for accuracy and precision. A skeletonized rotor, developed by our engineers at Formex, “automatically� winds the movement as a result of the natural motion of the wearer, and allows an unobstructed view of the beautifully decorated watch movement through the sapphire crystal exhibition case back. Formex is an independent watch manufacturer based in the watch city of Biel/Bienne, Switzerland. We design, develop and assemble Swiss Made watches in-house since 1998. With our newest model, the Essence Automatic Chronometer, we created a high precision and hand-finished quality timepiece made from the finest raw materials and crafted with an incredible wealth of details.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 113
Focus
LONGINES
By Fadi Jamil
Longines presents the new Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting:
The watch made for frequent travelers Rome (Italy) / Saint-Imier (Switzerland), 9 September 2018 – The watchmaking brand Longines unveiled its latest design, the Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting, in the unique backdrop of the Lanterna di Fuksas in Rome. Real technological innovation based on quartz, this timepiece is a must for travel lovers. It allows you to easily change time zones either manually, following watchmaking tradition, or by using the smart ‘Flash Setting’ system that sets the watch using flash pulses from a smartphone. This innovative function requires no external connection, such as Wi-Fi or Bluetooth. The Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting revolutionises both watchmaking precision and the user experience, expanding Longines’ Conquest V.H.P. “Very High Precision” family, following the three-handed and chronograph versions. Around a hundred journalists from across the globe were able to discover this exceptional timepiece during this event focused on elegance and travel.
114 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
MOVEMENT: Quartz movement, L287.2 (ETA E56.411) FUNCTIONS:
Hours, minutes, seconds, date aperture at 3 o’clock (perpetual calendar) and second time zone, “Flash Setting”: light-driven management system CASES: Round, stainless steel or black PVD, Ø41.00mm or Ø43.00mm, Sapphire crystal with multi-layered anti-reflective coating DIALS: Black, silvered, blue or carbon, with 2 applied Arabic numerals and 10 applied bar indexes with SuperLuminovaV.H.P. inscription in red, “Home Time” and “Travel Time” symbols at 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock in red, Flash Setting photo-detector concealed in the number 1 at 12 o’clock HANDS: Black WATER RESISTANCE: Up to 5 bar (50 meters) BRACELET/STRAP: Stainless steel or black PVD with triple safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism Black or blue rubber with double safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism
The Lanterna di Fuksas, a majestic and contemporary dome
A must for all travellers, this timepiece can be easily set manually
made of glass and steel overlooking the eternal city, played host
using the crown, or through its innovative Flash Setting function.
on Sunday to an exceptional event organised to mark the inter-
Flash Setting is what makes fast and direct time setting possible
national launch of the Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting. This
without using the crown, while providing rigorous precision in
event, focused on travel, took its guests on a journey across the
displayed time. The system relies on the user’s smartphone and
world, easily changing time zones. It was the ideal occasion for a
dedicated application but requires no external connection, such
hundred or so journalists and influencers from across the globe
as WiFi or Bluetooth. The information recorded in the application
to discover the winged hourglass brand’s latest design in the
is transmitted via light sequences emitted by the smartphone’s
presence of Walter von Känel, President of Longines, and Juan-
flash to a tiny opening on the watch dial, concealed in the num-
Carlos Capelli, Vice-President of Longines and Head of Interna-
ber 12. The Swap function offers another remarkable benefit,
tional Marketing.
allowing the user to interchange home time and travel time on
During the course of the evening, Longines also unveiled the
the display simply by applying pressure to the crown, for even
new campaign designed for the Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Set-
greater reading comfort anywhere in the world.
ting. Developed around the theme of travel, it stages the brand’s
These steel or black PVD watches come in two sizes (41 and 43-mm
Ambassadors of Elegance in different cities, at home or away. A
diameter) and, in addition to a second time zone marked by a thin
unique campaign, thought up for an outstanding watch.
imperial arrow hand, display the hours, the minutes, the seconds
Like other variations available in this collection, the Conquest
and the date (perpetual calendar). The handling of each model is
V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting houses an exclusive, cutting-edge
made simple with the smart crown and Flash Setting system, while
movement that boasts a remarkable ability to simplify every
two distinct indicators (E.O.L. and E.O.E.) preventively signal the
aspect of the user experience: ultraprecision (±5 s/yr), Gear Posi-
end of battery life. Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting models come
tion Detection (GPD) system that resets the hands after an impact
with a blue, carbon fibre, silvered or black dial. All are stamped with
or magnetic field exposure, smart crown, very long battery life
“Home Time” and “Travel Time” symbols at 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock
and perpetual calendar that extends to 2399.
respectively. A steel or black PVD bracelet or a blue or black rubber
However, the new Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting continues
watch strap completes these exceptional timepieces.
to push the V.H.P. technology further, providing globetrotters
Elegant and reliable, the Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting is
with even greater comfort. It is equipped with a second time zone
poised to become the new benchmark for travel enthusiasts, and
and a light-driven management system, known as Flash Setting.
the cutting-edge of V.H.P. technology.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 115
Fragrance By Fadi Jamil
116 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Roberto Cavalli’s Exclusive Duo of Fragrances SENSUAL ENCOUNTER
Since its creation, Roberto Cavalli has remained faithful to its Tuscan origins. Through its attachment to refined workmanship
and its celebration of the Italian way of life, the fashion house has become synonymous with a certain way of life that blends style, elegance, and glamour.
The Roberto Cavalli aficionados share this form of casual refinement, this sense of natural chic that has always inspired
the brand’s designers. Bold and confident, they know what they want and are not afraid to stand out, embracing life and
and sophisticated patchouli in the base add a fascinating and slightly exotic echo to the fragrance.
Christophe Raynaud’s Oriental Woody Fougere creation ideally
complements its feminine counterpart. The sensual violet signature that defines Roberto Cavalli Uomo fragrances, is
facetted with lavender and notes of bergamot. This overture is a study in elegance and refinement, a worthy prelude to a captivating encounter.
experiencing it fully. To sustain this vision, two exclusive lines
The heart of the fragrance is an olfactive duality between the
who never go unnoticed and Roberto Cavalli Uomo, for men who
notes and cardamom. This striking contrast perfectly balances
of perfumes were designed: Roberto Cavalli Signature for women dare to leave their imprint.
The new Roberto Cavalli La Notte Limited Edition initiates
an exclusive encounter. Under the cover of night, they reveal new facets of their personalities: naturally sensual, irresistibly
captivating and slightly mysterious. The night is ripe with
unexpected possibilities and moments of complicity and seduction.
NOCTURNAL DUO
The Roberto Cavalli La Notte duo fragrances were entrusted to
the designers of the original signature perfumes, Louise Turner (Givaudan) for Signature and Christophe Raynaud (Firmenich) for Uomo.
aromatic freshness of the clary sage and bold, piquant black pepper sensuality and authenticity, fearless audacity and perfect control.
A seamless blend of leather notes, tonka bean and patchouli completes the signature. It is both unashamedly virile and
alluringly mysterious, adding to the power of fascination exerted by this unique perfume.
BELLA NOTTE
For this duo, the Cavalli fragrances adorn themselves with a striking dark blue hue. Deep and intense, the color is reminiscent
of a starry night sky. The bottles retain the shape that defines their respective collections: a feminine and sensual drop of glass for La Notte for Woman and a very masculine square shape adorned with
scales for La Notte Uomo. Both proudly display the Roberto Cavalli monogram, a seal of quality and a sign of belonging.
For La Notte, Louise Turner conceived a very glamorous Oriental
The boxes of this exclusive edition remain faithful to the originals,
peppercorn and mandarin that is bound to captivate the senses
a more instinctive dimension. The dark blue color matches the
White Floral. It opens with a sparkling and zesty overture of pink and capture the attention.
Building on the iconic orange flower signature that defines
blending sophisticated refinement with animal motifs inspiring enclosed bottles. Contrasted with golden ornaments and prints, it underscores the nocturnal quality of the fragrances.
Roberto Cavalli feminine fragrances, the master perfumer added
Esther Heesch and Félix Guesnouin, the faces of Roberto Cavalli
counterpoint perfectly highlights La Notte for woman’s nocturnal
Young, charismatic and confident, they faithfully reflect the
a seductive note of raspberry liqueur. This heady and sensual
dimension. It speaks of intimacy and seduction, of exchanged glances and whispered confidences.
The scent of sweet vanilla, mesmerizing woody dry amber facets
Signature and Roberto Cavalli Uomo, embody the La Notte couple. brand’s values and aspirations.
The limited edition of Roberto Cavalli La Notte offers a delicious escape through the night.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 117
Zoom By Fadi Jamil
DAVIDOFF
THE DAVIDOFF CHEFS EDITION – 50TH ANNIVERSARY WHEN KITCHEN PIONEERS MEET CIGAR VISIONARIES
Basel, September 2018. To commemorate its 50th Anniversary, Davidoff is
share many beliefs as to the importance of the ingredients, the perfection of the
launching a second Chefs Edition in collaboration with five of the world’s top
preparation, the courage to take risks when exploring and the ensuing happiness
chefs. They comprise Thomas Keller from The French Laundry in Yountville, USA,
when their results bring pleasure.
Alvin Leung from Bo Innovation in Hong Kong, Klaus Erfort from his eponymous
‘I firmly believe that no true progress can be made without the best ingredients,’
Gästehaus in Saarbrücken, Germany, Heiko Nieder from The Restaurant in Zurich
says Chef Shaun Rankin. ‘Only when you handle these with respect can you
and Shaun Rankin from Ormer Mayfair in London. Between them, these culinary
develop recipes and your own repertoire and personal style.’
giants boast 12 Michelin stars.
‘In bringing together the creative powers of international kitchen pioneers with
What do five globally renowned culinary superstars and Davidoff’s leading Master
Davidoff’s cigar visionaries in the Dominican Republic, we intended to create an
Blenders have in common? One passion and one mission: to fill people’s time
extraordinary cigar experience inspired by flavours from the four corners of the world,’
beautifully with their exquisite creations. The Chefs scour the globe for the finest
says Edward Simon, Davidoff’s Chief Marketing Officer. ‘These highly acclaimed Chefs
ingredients in just the same way as Davidoff selects its tobaccos. Chefs and Master
and Master Blenders, whose mission is continually to push the boundaries of taste,
Blenders alike are intent on preparing their ingredients in order to combine them in
have truly excelled in creating a blend and experience second to none.’
bold, innovative ways to delight and surprise the taste buds of aficionados. Once they have perfected their creations, the greatest pleasure that these taste pioneers derive is
THE BLEND
from witnessing people’s reactions and bringing them extraordinary experiences.
The Toro cigar draws on influences from the Dominican Republic and the Chefs’
‘Discipline and passion for your work certainly are the cornerstones of continuous
home countries – Germany, Switzerland, USA, Great Britain and Hong Kong. The
success,’ says Chef Klaus Erfort, ‘but also the feeling of making guests happy.
result is multi-layered and exquisite, rich and deep in flavour. Liquorice, oakwood,
Seeing the smiling faces when they leave the restaurant in the evening is a
Szechuan pepper and leather give way to the warm intensity of coffee, cumin and
consistent source of motivation.
chocolate with sweet, spicy undertones and culminate in end notes of
Davidoff knows no limits when it comes to finding new flavours. It’s the same
eucalyptus and spice.
with great Chefs, whose kitchens are their worlds. Only their imagination could
Its wrapper is from the Dominican Republic and its binder Negro San Andrés from
restrict them when it comes to sourcing, preparing and fine-tuning the very
Mexico. The filler is a combination of Dominican (Piloto Visus, Visus, Yamasá
best ingredients. In this respect, our Master Blenders and these five great Chefs
Visus, San Vicente Mejorado Ligero) and Nicaraguan (Estelí Visus) tobaccos.
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Zoom By Fadi Jamil
CARL F. BUCHERER
THE PERFECT RECIPE Carl F. Bucherer and Gault Millau Switzerland select the Bürgenstock Resort Lake Lucerne as hotel of the year 2019 Each year, GaultMillau Switzerland and Swiss luxury watch manufacturer Carl F. Bucherer team up to present the Hotel of the Year award. This year, the legendary Bürgenstock Resort Lake Lucerne has the perfect recipe. In honor of this special award, Carl F. Bucherer present- ed selected delicacies from the Spices Kitchen & Terrace, one of the resort’s restaurants, and luxurious timepieces in a series of artistic photographs. Lucerne, August 27, 2018. Carl F. Bucherer shares its home city with a stunning
of photographs. Various models from the Swiss watch brand were joined by a
hotel – the Bürgenstock Resort Lake Lucerne. Today, Carl F. Bucherer and
range of different courses, including Indian, Thai, Japanese, and Chinese dishes, in
GaultMillau named this breathtaking resort Hotel of the Year 2019. The award
these artistic compositions. This har- monious blend of haute cuisine with haute
ceremony was held at the resort, which is located on a spectacular mountain ridge
horlogerie once again highlighted the shared values that unite Carl F. Bucherer and
with wonderful views out over Lake Lucerne. This is the twelfth time that the Swiss
the Bürgenstock Resort Lake Lucerne – continuity, passion, independence, and per-
luxury watch brand and the renowned gourmet guide, who share a long-standing
fection down to the very last detail.
partnership, have presented the Hotel of the Year award. A LUXURY RESORT WITH A FASCINATING HISTORY CULINARY DELIGHTS AND A FEAST FOR THE EYES
The Swiss watch manufacturer and the Bürgenstock Resort also share a long
The Spices Kitchen & Terrace, which serves up authentic Asian cuisine in the
and illustrious history. The Grand Hotel, as it was known following its original
heart of Switzerland, is one of four restaurants at the Bürgenstock Resort that
completion in 1873, seemed to have an almost magical power to attract such
will be featured in the GaultMillau Guide 2019. Con- structed as an impressive
renowned names as Charlie Chaplin, Kofi Annan, Sophia Loren, and Audrey Hepburn.
glass cube, the resort’s award-winning restaurant serves Far Eastern delicacies from its open show kitchen, and guests can take in the breathtaking views of the
Following nine years of planning and construction work, the new Bürgenstock
surrounding landscape. In honor of this award, Carl F. Bucherer took inspiration
Resort Lake Lucerne, a unique blend of historic listed buildings and modern
from the culinary variety on offer at the resort and presented popular creations
structures with an exemplary sustainability concept, opened on August 28, 2017.
from the Spices Kitchen & Terrace together with selected timepieces in a series
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MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 121
MADE OF LUCERNE Speaking at the award ceremony, Sascha Moeri, CEO of Carl F. Bucherer, said: “The Bürgenstock Resort has always pursued a vision of consistently setting the very highest standards. It is this shared philosophy, as well as the fact that we both have a long history and are ‘Made of Lucerne,’ that creates such a strong connection between our brand and this renowned hotel.” With GaultMillau Switzerland Editor in Chief Urs Heller also in attendance, Sascha Moeri honored the outstanding performance by presenting a watch each to Bruno H. Schöpfer, Managing Director of the Bürgenstock Selection, Robert P. Herr, General Manager of the Bürgenstock Resort, and Mike Wehrle, the Bürgenstock Resort’s Culinary Director. Each timepiece features an engraving on the case back with the words “Hotel of the Year 2019.”
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Zoom By Fadi Jamil
CHOPARD
75th Venice Film Festival Chopard loves Cinema VENICE, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 2ND – The following looked stunning in Chopard
SEPTEMBER 1ST – The following appeared on the red carpet of the premiere of
on the red carpet of My Brilliant Friend (by Saverio Costanzo):
Suspiria (by Luca Guadagnino) adorning Chopard jewellery:
British actress Hannah Murray wore a delicate pair of earrings in 18ct white gold
Cate Blanchett shined with a pair of earrings in 18ct white gold set with sapphires
set with emeralds and diamonds with a matching ring, both from the Precious
and diamonds from the Haute Joaillerie Collection and a snake ring from the
Chopard Collection.
Animal World Collection.
American Actress Marianne Rendon chose to wear a ring in 18ct white gold set
Barbara Palvin wore earrings in 18ct white gold set with diamonds and a diamond
with a sapphire and diamonds from the Haute Joaillerie Collection.
ring in 18ct white gold, both the Haute Joaillerie Collection.
Italian actress Stefania Rocca selected earrings in 18ct white gold set with rubies
Marica Pellegrinelli walked the red carpet adorning a pair of earrings in 18ct white
and diamonds from the Precious Chopard Collection.
gold set with rubies and diamonds, with a matching ring in diamonds, both from
Brazilian actress and model Bruna Marquezine dazzled with a magnificiant
the Precious Chopard Collection.
necklace in 18ct white gold set with diamonds and featuring eleven pear-shaped emeralds from the Haute Joaillerie Collection.
AUGUST 31ST – The following appeared on the red carpet of the premiere of A Star
Italian model Bianca Balti adorned her look with a lacework necklace in 18ct
is Born (by Bradley Cooper) adorning Chopard jewellery:
white gold set with diamonds and earrings in 18ct white gold set with rubies and
Lady Gaga chose to wear exceptional earrings in 18ct white gold from the Haute
diamonds, both from the Precious Chopard Collection.
Joaillerie Collection, featuring two D-flawless pear-shaped diamonds of 7cts each
Actress and model Catrinel Marlon walked the red carpet with diamond earrings in
and two D-flawless round-shaped diamonds of 2,5cts each.
18ct white gold from the Haute Joaillerie Collection.
124 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Cate Blanchett adorned her look with a pair of chandelier earrings in 18ct white gold set with diamonds, a ring in 18ct white gold featuring a sapphire of 15cts and set with diamonds and a diamond ring in 18ct white gold set with a central heartshaped diamond of 4cts, all from the Haute Joaillerie Collection. Bruna Marquezine shined with a delicate necklace in 18ct white gold set with emeralds and diamonds and matching earrings from the Precious Chopard Collection. Barbara Palvin wore chandelier earrings in 18ct white gold set with white and yellow diamonds from the Haute Joaillerie Collection, completed with an Happy Diamonds ring in 18ct white gold featuring a dancing diamond. August 30th – Brazilian model Izabel Goulart appeared on the red carpet of the premiere of Roma (by Alfonso Cuarón) wearing a pair of earrings in 18ct white gold fully set with rose-cut diamonds from Chopard Haute Joaillerie Collection.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 125
11-16 SEPTEMBER 2018 C A NNE S - VIE U X P O R T & PO R T PI ER R E C A N TO
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