GMT MIDDLE EAST EDITION 19 - JANUARY 2019

Interview Flavio Pellegrini EBEL President

FOCUS Carl F. Bucherer Ode to a golden era: The exquisite retro style Manero Flyback WATCH PHOTO AWARDS And the winners are…

Zenith

Defy El Primero 21 GMT ME No 19 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2019

19

9 771660 110613

C r e a t i n g n ew h e i g h t s The new Montblanc 1858 Geosphere.

Spirit of Mountain Exploration. montblanc.com/1858

TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE HEUER 02-T

Récital 22 Grand Récital

5-patent timepiece developed and manufactured in-house.

Limited edition of 60 movements. 5-year international warranty.

Hours around the hand-painted hemispherical Earth. Retrograde minutes.

Seconds on the double face flying tourbillon. Double face date.

Tri-dimensional precision moon phase. 9-day power reserve.

Retrograde perpetual calendar on the reverse side.

PLEASE VISIT US AT BOVET.COM

AHMED SEDDIQI & SONS, DUBAI I AL MANARA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY, ABU DHABI I AL AWADI, SULTANATE OF OMAN ASIA JEWELLERS, BAHRAIN I ATAMIAN, LEBANON I BEHBEHANI, KUWAIT I BLUE SALON, QATAR I KASHTIARAY, IRAN

F O U N D I N G M E M B E R O F T H E Q U A L I T Y F L E U R I E R C E R T I F I CAT I O N A N D PA R T N E R O F T H E F O U N DAT I O N H I G H H O R O L O G Y

EXCLUSIVE AGENT BONUS EVENTUS FZE Phone : +971 552 255 343 Email : jbeainy@bonuseventus.ae

Abu Dhabi U.A.E.

Kuwait

Qatar

HOUSE OF ART Watches & Jewellery The Mall at World Trade Center Abu Dhabi – U.A.E. Phone +971 2 674 52 57 Phone +971 50 667 76 23 Email: hoart@emirates.net.ae

BEHBEHANI WATCH WORLD Ring Road 5, The Avenues Mall, Unit: GL – 103 Al Rai - KUWAIT Phone: +965 2206 0560 E-mail: Watches.Avenues@e-behbehani.com Website: www.BehbehaniWatchWorld.com

AL MAJED JEWELLERY Ground floor, Al Majed Group Building Suhaim Bin Hamad Street Doha, Qatar Tel: +974-44074259

CYRUS-WATCHES.CH

- INFO@CYRUS-WATCHES.CH

KLEPCYS CHRONOGRAPH Limited edition 100 pieces Ref. 539.501.SD.A

CYRUS-WATCHES.CH

- INFO@CYRUS-WATCHES.CH

W E A R YO U R AT T I T U D E

WWW.D1MILANO.COM

Editorial WINTER 2019

Happy new year to all our GMT readers!

O

f course, the most important news that most people are talking about is that as of 2020, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva (SIHH) and Basel world in Basel, the two major events in the watch industry will

synchronize their calendars. In 2020, the SIHH will be held from 26th of April to

29th of April in Geneva, followed immediately by Basel world from 30th April to 5th of May in Basel. The calendars have been synchronized until 2024.

The two events have always been different, yet complementary. Moving SIHH with Basel

world will further confirm Switzerland as the foremost destination for watchmaking in the world; this is the interests of all.

Now with regards to the watch industry, we truly believe that this industry is facing several changes, and with no doubt at all; the most crucial one is the change in the behavior of the younger generation of watch buyers.

For them, a watch is neither just a tool to tell the time nor an item they have to wear when they reach a certain age. They see watches either as fashion items or as inspiration luxury.

For all watch manufactures, this situation is a real challenge but at the same time it is indeed a great opportunity.

FADI JAMIL I Publisher, Editor-in-Chief

Interview

GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM

Flavio Pellegrini EBEL President

Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com Head of Creative / Graphic Designer: KYLE EVIDENTE | creative@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com

FOCUS Carl F. Bucherer Ode to a golden era: The exquisite retro style Manero Flyback WATCH PHOTO AWARDS And the winners are…

GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma

Zenith

Defy El Primero 21 GMT ME No 19 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2019

19

9 771660 110613

GMT ME MAGAZINE NO19 2018

26

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

© Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.

TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM.

THE VALLÉE DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF FINE WATCHMAKING.

AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM

ROYAL OAK CHRONOGRAPH IN STAINLESS STEEL

AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES: THE DUBAI MALL | MALL OF THE EMIRATES

Contents WINTER 2019

26 EDITORIAL 28 CONTENTS 32 CONTRIBUTORS

BUSINESS 34 HOT NEWS 76 INTERVIEW: Flavio Pellegrini, EBEL President

ART

56

94 COLLECTOR’S CORNER 100 PORTFOLIO

68 LIFESTYLE

NEW RELEASES

108 JET-SET

68 COVER STORY

116 ZOOMS

Zenith reflects far horizons: DEFY EL PRIMERO 21 BLUE

GPHG 2018, LONGINES

72 WATCH PHOTO AWARDS

76 28

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

arraw

MARINE G

O

L

D

B

L

U

E

rjwatches.com RJXWATCHES

Contents WINTER 2019

82 Focus

Close-up view of 8 new releases

82 CARL F. BUCHERER ODE TO A GOLDEN ERA: The exquisite retro style Manero Flyback

85 BAUME & MERCIER C for complicated

86 A. LANGE & SÖHNE Light in stock

87 H. MOSER & CIE. Rarely blue

88 BREGUET The spirit of maritime exploration

89 BELL & ROSS Robust green

82

90 ANONIMO Racing feline

91 MONTBLANC Reverse panda

88 90

30

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

MANUFACTURE CALIBRE ARF15 16½’’’

MIRRORED FORCE RESONANCE GUILLOCHÉ DIAL

Contributors Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor, Brice Lechevalier, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.

32

Marie De Pimodan

Christophe Persoz

An expert watch journalist who presents new models as well as handling the Craftsmanship column.

This experienced watchmaker analyzes a watch that he wears for an entire week and delivers his technical and aesthetic verdict.

Paul O’Neil

Michèle Brunner

David Chokron

The editor-in-chief of WorldTempus. com shares his insights on our feature articles based on his website’s coverage of the subject.

An experienced member of the GMT Publishing editorial team, she reports on brand events and products.

An expert watch journalist, he provides content for our Tech Insights column as well as presenting the latest new models.

Cloé Mugny

Pierre Millasson

A member of the GMT Publishing team, this translator by training contributes to the Editor’s Picks column.

This watch industry professional analyzes the auction world in the Collector’s Corner column.

Brice Lechevalier

Edouard Haegi

Involved in all aspects of the magazine, the founder seeks to convey a sense of pleasure to readers through the various articles.

Edouard Haegi is our inhouse photographer/videomaker, who also handles the Watch Photo Awards.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

REJUV ENAT E WITH THE FESTI VE REVIV ER AT

The Spa at Address Boulevard

Prepare

for the festive season with a revitalising treatment at The Spa at Address Boulevard. Treat yourself to the Festive Reviver, which holistically revitalises with a full body massage and an Argan silk body scrub, and enjoy our spa pool and a festive gift, with our compliments.

Price: AED 550 per person Treatment duration: 90-minutes massage and scrub Date: 1st December until 31st December Time: 9.00am to 10.00pm

BOOK NOW T +971 4 561 8153 ADDRESSHOTELS.COM

Hot News FADI JAMIL

The Grande Seconde Moon

Limited Edition Dubai Jaquet Droz celebrates Dubai with a model combining the singularity of its dial with the identity of the capital and its eponymous state.

THERE ARE 1001 WAYS to pay tribute to the United Arab Emirates

scientific name, “heliotrope” (meaning “turned to the sun”), as

and its famed city. Beyond the heraldic reproductions, the path

the Moon always faces the sun from the same side.

taken by Jaquet Droz testifies to its creativity and its deep respect for Dubai’s heritage.

First, there is the highly symbolic choice of the piece: the Grande Seconde Moon. This collection places the Moon at the heart of the Grande Seconde’s emblematic design. The choice of a Moon

or discouragement, offering general stability. Bloodstone warms the heart and offers protection against negativity.

The choice of this stone falls in line with the great Jaquet Droz

Phase for this Fine Watchmaking limited series owes nothing

tradition of mineral dials, one of the eight fundamental codes

to chance. It symbolizes the direct link between astronomy and

of the brand. Rocks, crystals and minerals are reminders that

watchmaking. Indeed, it was by observing the stars that scientists

nature is capable of works of art, which the Maison works by

then watchmakers laid the foundations for the measurement of

hand to reveal their brilliance. Every fragment of bloodstone is

time. For that matter, many of them used an astrolabe for this

unique, just like every Grande Seconde Moon.

purpose – the renowned instrument of astronomical observation

To bring the watch to life and offset the standard error

and calculation, which saw its usage peak in the ArabIslamic

of a 59tooth movement (an error of one day approximately

world beginning in the 8th century. Today, the Grande Seconde

every two years and eight months), Jaquet Droz has developed

Moon Limited Edition Dubai pays tribute to this long tradition

a selfwinding mechanical movement equipped with the

with an hour’s circle marked by Arabic numerals, themselves

“mechanism 135” Moon Phase complication to ensure the

positioned above a silvery opaline dial with blued hands.

movement maintains perfect accuracy for 122 consecutive years.

Next, there is the choice of bloodstone, a mineral rarely used

The astronomical Moon Phase is set using a discreet corrector

in watchmaking, for the stone on which the Moon Phase is

positioned on the case at 8 o’clock. This limited series will be

displayed. Jaquet Droz craftsmen used their skill and expertise to

made up of only 28 pieces (numerus clausus).

create an extremely thin disc that preserves the intensity of the stone’s green color and each of its flecks of red.

These two hues – green and red – recall the colors of the flags

34

There are many properties associated with bloodstone. It provides help in life’s most difficult moments, such as times of uncertainty

Embodying the versatility of a design created by Pierre JaquetDroz nearly 280 years ago, the Grande Seconde Moon Limited Edition Dubai – unveiled at the brand new Jaquet Droz

of Dubai and the United Arab Emirates. Featured at the heart

boutique in the famous Dubai Mall located in the heart of the

of the Grande Seconde Moon, they offer a striking contrast to

city – respects the aesthetic codes of its predecessor by infusing

its 22 carat gold Moon alongside starry appliques, also crafted

them with an additional soul from the reaches of the most

from 18carat white gold. Bloodstone was equally chosen for its

famous Emirates state.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Hot News FADI JAMIL

TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02

by Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara

The latest creation by Japanese designer and pioneer of streetwear Hiroshi Fujiwara is a reinterpretation of the iconic TAG Heuer Carrera HIROSHI FUJIWARA could only approach his latest collaboration

crown enabled daily winding by hand, the push buttons were

the sole objective of creating something he loves.

indexes and subdivisions, and slightly recessed counters.

the way he approaches every project: with a unique vision and Following brand collaborations that became iconic fashion

references and recent ventures such as the POOL Aoyama and THE CONVENI concept stores, the internationally renowned

Japanese streetwear designer, influencer, musician and founder of Fragment has designed a brand new outfit for the iconic TAG Heuer Carrera.

As both brands share a truly disruptive avant-garde spirit,

Hiroshi Fujiwara’s Fragment joined forces with TAG Heuer to

This original model from 1963 was the very model chosen by

Hiroshi Fujiwara as the model to adapt and transform into a Fragment-style masterpiece.

“We created something people are not necessarily expecting

to find in TAG Heuer’s current collection,” commented Hiroshi Fujiwara. “There aren’t many new watches I’d want, but I’m sure about this one!”

The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 by Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara

redesign the Carrera.

stays true to the brand’s commitment to its Swiss avant-garde

model,” said non-executive chairman of the LVMH watchmaking

at the heart of the model.

“Hiroshi Fujiwara is the ideal partner to reinterpret this iconic

division, Jean-Claude Biver. “We were more than happy to give

spirit with a Calibre Heuer 02 automatic manufacture movement The watch features a new powerhouse strap design in black

him complete freedom with the design.”

and an additional black and grey NATO strap is included in the

archives of the manufacture, the designer learned about the

adorn the black dial: a minute counter at 3 o’clock, a permanent

After an initial meeting and a deep dive into the product

history of the TAG Heuer Carrera. The chronograph has occupied pole position in the world of motor racing for 55 years, and

the collection takes its name from the legendary week-long Carrera Panamericana road race held in Mexico during the

1950s. With competition in its DNA, the first TAG Heuer Carrera chronograph, designed in 1963 for drivers, was an immediate

international success thanks to the revolutionary design of its dial. For the first time, the ring securing the dial on the case

display case. Three black counters with lacquered white hands second subdial at 6 o’clock and an hour counter at 9 o’clock.

Beige indexes and rhodium-plated hour and minute hands with beige SuperLuminova® complement the sleek black dial, which

also features a silver flange and the famous signature logo at 12

o’clock. The shimmering 39 mm stainless-steel case has a special stainless-steel screw-down sapphire caseback, specially engraved with its limited-edition number.

A true Hiroshi Fujiwara original – as much a celebration of

featured the indispensable seconds scale, resulting in a larger

Japanese design as it is of its own disruptive design pedigree –,

on well-established rules for ergonomics and clarity: the ridged

ongoing TAG Heuer Carrera saga.

display and improved legibility. Its specifications were based

36

easy to move, and the broad, minimalist dial featured clear

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

the TAG Heuer Carrera Fragment opens a new chapter in the

Hot News FADI JAMIL

New Girard-Perregaux Boutique in Changsha DECEMBER 14, CHANGSHA, CHINA - Swiss luxury watch Manufacture

located in Changsha – the third in Mainland China - was

in the Changsha IFS luxury mall, centrally located in the city’s

a warm yet classical elegant atmosphere, which will certainly

Girard-Perregaux has announced the opening of a new boutique prime business area.

Changsha combines cultural wealth and economic strength in

the Hunan Province in Southern China. Girard-Perregaux shares the city’s outlook for having important potential, especially

given the presence of such great local demand from Chinese connoisseurs for Swiss high watchmaking timepieces.

The traditional ribbon-cutting ceremony took place on December

7, in attendance of Isabelle Moine, Girard-Perregaux Asia Pacific Brand Manager, Steven Zhong, Operational General Manager,

Girard-Perregaux China; Together with long-standing partners

from Huifuda Int’L Trading (Shenzhen) Ltd represented by Luke

meet the highest expectations of a discerning clientele among local residents. I wish our teams the best of success.” said

Isabelle Moine, Brand Manager, Girard-Perregaux Asia Pacific.

Tracing its origins as far back as 1791, Girard-Perregaux has

a proud legacy with China, benefiting legendary status in the history of Swiss fine watchmaking. The boutique is a perfect

combination of understated elegance and modern minimalist design, providing an exquisite home for Girard-Perregaux’s four main collections: Bridges, Laureato, 1966 and the feminine Cat’s Eye.

As part of the opening celebrations, Girard-Perregaux featured

Yang, and Changsha IFS represented by Mr C.F.MA and Winni

in the atrium of the Changsha IFS luxury mall, a special historic

collectors, connoisseurs, as well as a selection of media.

with complications movements. These included the Constant

Wang. They were joined by VIP clients, friends of the brand, watch “China is home to a large number of major watch collectors.

They fully appreciate the expertise of the Swiss watchmaking art, expressed through our collections. This new boutique

38

designed in line with the concept so dear to the brand creating

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

timeline exhibition, completed by a section showcasing timepieces Escapement L.M., the Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges, a

Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, and last but not least, a Laureato Flying Tourbillon Skeleton.

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Breitling opens new ‘Industrial-Chic’ Boutique concept in the Dubai Mall (MIDDLE EAST, 12TH DECEMBER 2018) Swiss luxury watchmaker, Breitling, has opened its new retail concept in The Dubai Mall.

To mark the special occasion, Breitling’s brand-new ‘Premier

Collection’ of timepieces was unveiled in the Middle East for the first time.

Located in Fashion Avenue – part of the largest shopping mall

in the world and home to more than 150 luxury brands − the new

boutique is Breitling’s latest retail space to feature the brand’s new ‘urban contemporary’ concept.

Breitling CEO, Georges Kern, was joined by Mohammed

Abdulmagied, Chief Commercial Officer of Ahmed Seddiqi &

Sons at an official opening ceremony on Wednesday. The ribbon cutting ceremony was followed by a spectacular launch party

in Downtown Dubai, featuring live entertainment, experiential dining and ‘land, sea and air’ experiences.

The opening ceremony also saw the launch of the recently

announced ‘Premier Collection’, which introduces five distinct new models to the Breitling range. While the brand is highly

regarded for its aviator and diver’s watches, these eye-catching

timepieces have been created especially for use on land: Breitling’s first environment.

“The new boutique marks a new milestone for our relationship

with Breitling in Dubai. We are thrilled to be a part of the exciting launch of the brand’s new boutique concept.” said Mohammed

Abdulmagied, Chief Commercial Officer of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons.

Located in The Dubai Mall’s luxury wing, Breitling’s new

40

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

136m² boutique is the latest retail space to feature the brand’s new design concept: a contemporary urban interpretation

of an exclusive industrial loft in a dynamic city. The design of the boutique is inspired by a mid-twentieth-century

industrial building as a nod to a time when the brand’s

timepieces and intelligent measuring tools earned Breitling a formidable reputation. A hand-painted mural, unique

artefacts like aircraft propellers and a full-sized pool table combined with bespoke furniture vividly bring to life the worlds of ‘land, sea and air’.

The new boutique is home to the entire Breitling range of

timepieces, including the brand-new Premier collection, as well

as, the recently introduced Superocean Héritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown and the Navitimer collection. The uniquely-designed boutique welcomes guests into a relaxed, creative environment.

The launch party was attended by 200 VIPs and local dignitaries,

as well as senior representatives from Breitling and Ahmed

Seddiqi and Sons. The event also marks the recent introduction

of a dedicated regional team based in the newly opened Breitling Middle East office in Dubai.

The star-studded evening launch party saw guests immerse in

the brand’s thematic worlds of ‘land, sea and air’, with specially

designed beverages and hors d’oeuvres, whilst an innovative photo

booth inspired by the Breitling Cinema Squad and the new Premier left guests with an enduring impression of the brand’s dynamic values: action, purpose, and pioneering spirit.

TOURBILLON CHRONOMETER NO.36 ROYAL COLLECTION

Swiss Craftsmanship

www.arnoldandson.com

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Jaeger-LeCoultre the official timekeeper for British Polo Day in the Blue City, Jodhpur LEGENDARY SWISS WATCHMAKER JAEGER-LECOULTRE was official

collaboration with Casa Fagliano is being highlighted through a

Jodhpur, India. British Polo Day celebrates the heritage and

on a Casa Fagliano strap, which sport a two-tone cordovan leather

timekeeper at the recently held British Polo Day event held in

history of polo on a global platform that includes top companies, prominent guests, including key figures in government, the

aristocracy, diplomats, military, art and popular culture, fashion as well as the Kuwaiti influencer Noha Nabil “Nohastyleicon”.

It creates opportunities for business in emerging and growth

markets, giving its partners unbridled access to international

connections. British Polo Day is an ambitious and fast-growing company which partners with some of the world’s best brands such as Chelsea Barracks, VistaJet and hosted by His Highness

The Maharaja Gaj Singh II of Marwar-Jodhpur, British Polo Day celebrated its 71st global event in India.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s association with top-flight brands, such as British

Polo Day, is a time-honoured collaboration, which goes back many

years. In 2018, Jaeger-LeCoultre also partnered with Casa Fagliano,

the celebrated Argentinian bootmakers. The exclusive nature of this

42

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

limited-edition collection of 100 pieces of the Reverso Tribute Duoface strap, demonstrating outstanding leathercraft traditions.

A family business since 1892, Casa Fagliano’s hallmark is a

soft and supple leather known for its great strength, following techniques handed down by tradition. For the Reverso Tribute

Duoface, the two-tone strap features a light brown with a darker brown shade as well as tone-on-tone overstitching. Each strap is

handcrafted, with its own patina and finishes, making it unique.

The words ‘Limited Edition – One of 100’ are engraved on its

back, emphasizing exclusivity, as each watch will be available as a limited edition only in Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques.

There it will await those who appreciate expert craftsmanship,

meticulous detail, and the pursuit of perfection – values that are shared by the Grande Maison and those it partners with in any venture, from renowned bootmakers Casa Fagliano to British Polo Day.

FOR THE JOURNEY YOU’RE ON

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES . SAUDI ARABIA . KUWAIT . JORDAN . LEBANON TUMI.COM

Hot News FADI JAMIL

New Omega 1948 Seamaster watches join the ranks

BETWEEN 1940 AND 1945, OMEGA delivered more than 110,000 timepieces to the Royal Air Force and other branches of the military. The watches were highly valued by British airmen and sailors for their water resistance and reliability.

At the end of the war, OMEGA responded to the demand for a timepiece with the

same robust technology but more aesthetically suited to civilian life. The result was the

Seamaster line, OMEGA’s first family of watches: beautifully-designed timepieces, given

even greater water-resistance than their military counterparts by OMEGA’s novel use of the O-ring gasket technology.

As part of the Seamaster 70th Anniversary celebrations, OMEGA is releasing four limited

edition tributes to those early battle-proven timepieces: two stainless steel models first seen at Baselworld 2018 and two luxury editions in platinum.

44

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

COMING SOON IN THE MIDDLE EAST W W W. M A U R O N M U S Y. C O M

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Dual Time Resonance Sapphire: Maximum Horology, Total Transparency THE DUAL TIME RESONANCE SAPPHIRE by Armin Strom is a horological masterpiece: a chef d’œuvre combining the

Sapphire to indicate GMT, a second time zone, or function as a timer

practicality of two completely independent time indications

or countdown. Completing the indications are independent power

with the increased precision of two independent movements

reserve indicators and a 24-hour indication serving both displays.

in resonance. And all that in 360° display within a dazzling

The CSEM (Centre Suisse d’Electronique et de Microtechnique)

transparent sapphire crystal case. While Armin Strom is known

has officially certified Armin Strom’s Resonance Clutch Spring

for not covering their movements with a dial to highlight the

system as being a true system in resonance. Armin Strom’s

horology within, this sapphire crystal case takes transparency to

laboratory testing has revealed gains in precision of 15-20% for

a whole new dimension.

two COSC-certified chronometer-level regulated movements

Wearing the Dual Time Resonance Sapphire is like wearing a movement on the wrist, with all of Armin Strom’s meticulous hand finishing and inventive horology on full display.

46

Independent movements enable the Dual Time Resonance

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

placed in resonance.

The Armin Strom Masterpiece 1 Dual Time Resonance Sapphire launches in a scratch-resistant limited edition of 8 pieces.

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Watches & Wonders Miami

Further Expands for 2019 with more Watch Exhibitors, Conferences and Product Debuts GENEVA, JANUARY 8, 2019 – The second edition of Watches &

weekend and include topics such as ‘Can Women Save the Watch

in partnership with the Miami Design District Associates (MDDA),

Super Collector All-Access Pass.’ Expert panelists will include

Wonders Miami, created by the Fondation Haute Horlogerie (FHH) is expected to be bigger and better, as new maisons continue to

confirm their participation for the 2019 event. There are 12 new

comers this year including De Bethune, Dior, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie., HYT, OMEGA, Roger Dubuis, Speake-Marin, Tiffany & Co., Ulysse Nardin, Zenith, and Turkish jeweler, Sevan Biçakçi,

collectors, executives from premier luxury brands and auction

houses, major retailers and top journalists. There will be three

workshops offered a day where attendees will have the hands-on opportunity to assemble and disassemble watch movements.

Watches & Wonders Miami is also partnering with the 31st

who recently launched a new luxury timepiece collection. In

annual Miami Yacht Show that will relocate to a new, more

Bvlgari, Cartier, F.P. Journe, Hublot, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Kari

feature a 60-acre display, including a massive 67,000sqf.

addition, brands including A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Voutilainen, Louis Vuitton, Panerai, Piaget, Romain Gauthier,

RJ, Tag Heuer, Vacheron Constantin and Van Cleef & Arpels will

be returning exhibitors, bringing the total number of exhibiting maisons to 29. The event will take place over Presidents’ Day weekend from February 15th through February 17th.

In addition to new exhibitors and new product debuts, the FHH

is also expanding conference and workshop offerings for 2019. A total of five panel discussions will be held over the course of the

48

World,’ ‘What’s the Point of Watch Creation,’ and ‘Getting Your

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

expansive location at One Herald Plaza. The 2019 show will

Exhibition space and nearly 500 yachts from the world’s foremost manufacturers and brokers. For automobile enthusiasts, the Miami Concours will take place the Saturday and Sunday of Presidents’ Day weekend in the Miami Design District and

feature an exclusive presentation of incredibly rare vintage, sports and exotic cars from some of America’s most respected collectors.

Watches & Wonders Miami will be the ultimate weekend of luxury with watches, jewelry, exotic cars, and super yachts.

MECHANICAL MACHINE INVENTIONS ACADEMIA ENDLES DRIVE - ROSE GOLD The timepiece’s prowess lies in the design idea’s materialisation, which honours endless screw mechanism, animated in a decidedly unique way.

W W W. D E W I T T. C H

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Jessica Kahawaty, Lara Stone, Lara Scandar, Maritta Hallani, Aram Kabbani and Salma Abu Deif attend Ball of Arabia

2018 with Tiffany & Co. DUBAI, UAE (11 DECEMBER, 2018) – Tiffany & Co. dressed global and regional celebrities in the latest high and fine jewelry collections for the inaugural Ball of Arabia. The star-studded event took place in the Burj Al Arab in support of UNICEF’s Girls Education and Empowerment Program.

50

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Changing Sides: A Success Story

The innovative PanoInverse celebrates its 10-year anniversary IN 2008, GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL staged a brilliant premiere for a very

arrangement of components that would normally be visible only

its inner beauty, presenting the duplex swan-neck fine adjustment

the Pano collection gives well-deserved pride of place to the duplex

special element of its horological art. The PanoInverse XL unveiled as an exceptional element on the dial side of the watch. Today, two

Pano models in particular represent a remarkable success story that began in 2008 with the PanoInverse XL.

UNUSUAL DESIGN AND TECHNICAL SOPHISTICATION The beauty of a watch from Glashütte Original has many

facets: the timeless and stylish design, the precious materials,

and the complications that enrich everyday life with their visual and technical sophistication. But what is most obvious is by no means the only reason a mechanical watch is so fascinating.

Above all there is the exquisitely finished movement housed within the timepiece.

In 2008, the elaborately engraved balance bridge with its fine

adjustment mechanism was presented for the first time on

the dial side of a watch. This was made possible by the inverse

52

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

through the sapphire crystal case back. The off-centre design of

swan-neck fine adjustment, the manufactory’s own innovation.

After all, the device enables exceptionally precise adjustment of the watch’s rate and centring of the oscillation system.

The obvious beauty of this perfectly realised functional element

had inspired the engineers and designers to undertake a thorough re-design of the manual winding movement 66: they laid out

the movement in such a way as to make the “butterfly”, as the duplex swan-neck fine adjustment is also known, the centre of

attention on the dial. To turn this idea into reality it was necessary to rework the design at a number of places in the movement,

and to develop new components and subassemblies. As a result,

of these new developments, all three plates, as well as the wheel

train assemblies for the movement and power reserve, had to be reworked and adapted to the new configuration.

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Julianne Moore in Chopard DECEMBER 5TH, Julianne Moore attended the L’Oréal Paris Women of Worth

Celebration in New York City wearing jewelry by Chopard.

Julianne Moore shined in a pair of earrings featuring 21.21-carats of tsavorite

garnets and 11.96-carats of colored diamonds set in 18k yellow gold and

titanium from the “Haute Joaillerie Collection” and a ring from the “Precious Chopard Collection” featuring 4.23-carats of emeralds and .29-carats of diamonds set in 18k white gold.

54

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Hot News FADI JAMIL

A First Piece of Art on Your Wrist Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Red Ceramic Orlinski Red (Runs) in

Hublot’s Veins THE CLASSIC FUSION CHRONOGRAPH Orlinski has been paired

innovations in materials and manufacturing processes (a

passion, red evokes Richard Orlinski’s first Born Wild Crocodile

burning its pigments), the ceramic created is harder than

with Hublot’s patented red ceramic. The colour of life and of

sculpture. Created in 2004, it features this vivid and powerful shade of red, which has since gone on to become the most recognisable colour in his menagerie.

WILD. RED. CERAMIC. A fascinating yet paradoxical colour, the colour red

symbolises the sometimes contradictory extremes of our

previously seen (1500 HV1 versus 1200 HV2). This expertise

was developed in tandem by Hublot’s Research & Development department and Metallurgy and Materials laboratory, a 100% in-house process, resulting in a secret formula protected by several patents.

Since 2017 Richard Orlinski, the world’s bestselling

sentiments. Love, rage, courage, risk, prohibition, zeal… A

contemporary artist, has been adding his angular style to

A few months ago, at Baselworld 2018, Hublot expanded

signature facets, nuanced with angles and edges. Like his

watch which appeals to the emotions.

its catalogue of innovations by adding a new feat: the first

ceramic to be created in a vibrant colour. Taking four years to develop from concept to industrialisation,and requiring

56

fusion of pressure and heat which sinters the ceramic without

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Hublot watches. Works of art for the wrist, these feature his sculptures, the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Ceramic

boasts the sharp three-dimensional sculpted lines and polished finish which are the artist’s trademark.

Hot News FADI JAMIL

The Rado DiaMaster

Petite Seconde Automatic COSC SWISS WATCH BRAND RADO has long been known for its use of unconventional, high-tech materials and for pioneering their use in the world of watchmaking. In fact, it’s often said that – at Rado – the complication is on theoutside.

The ‘Master of Materials’ label is one of which Rado is incredibly

proud, and the quest for innovative combinations of materials continues as it strives to constantly chart new territory.

Plasma high-tech ceramic is one such material whose use

Rado pioneered and is a form of modern alchemy. The plasma

carburising process allows the brand to create scratch-resistant

high-tech ceramic with a metallic look without using metal. The colour won’t fade over time. Since it first appeared in 1998, it has become both a mainstay of the collection and inextricably linked

with the Rado story - as well as playing a starring role on the case of the new 2018 DiaMaster Petite Seconde Automatic COSC.

58

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Paper-based

or At home or in the

Select

your annual subscription

Details and registration on the Magazine section of

www.gmtmag-me.com | info@gmtmag-me.com

Hot News FADI JAMIL

IWC Ranks top in WWF

Swiss Watch and Jewellery Sector Report SCHAFFHAUSEN, 18TH DECEMBER 2018 – IWC Schaffhausen has been ranked

as the best-performing company in the Swiss Watch and Jewellery sector in a WWF Switzerland report examining the environmental impact of 15 brands.

In a report released by WWF Switzerland on 18th December 2018, IWC

Schaffhausen ranks top among 15 watch and jewellery brands, and is the only brand to place above the mid-way point of WWF’s six-tier ratings

system. WWF’s report examines how companies take responsibility for the

environmental impacts of their activities, and how transparently these efforts are communicated.

IWC Schaffhausen integrates sustainability into its business practices, and

in 2018 released a report to GRI standards describing ongoing activities and future goals. IWC applauds WWF Switzerland for drawing attention to the

environmental impact of the watch and jewellery sector, and for encouraging consumers to consider the origins and durability of their purchases.

60

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Le Richemond Geneva

DISCOVER A LAKESIDE ESCAPE A BREATH OF SWISS FRESH AIR AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF THE ALPS BREATHTAKING VIEWS ON THE JET D’EAU AND THE MONT BLANC FRENCH SEASONAL CUISINE AT LE JARDIN RESTAURANT LE SPA BY SISLEY & FITNESS CELEBRATION OF MEMORABLE EVENTS

Jardin Brunswick | 1201 Geneva | Switzerland lerichemond.com

#MYRichemond

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Vacheron Constantin “goes wild” VACHERON CONSTANTIN has just unveiled an exclusive assortment of one-of-a-kind models created by its Les Cabinotiers department.

The power of the majestic wild animals adorning the dials and cases reflects the potency the stunning work involved in associating the watchmaking expertise of Grand Complications with the mastery of Artistic Crafts. The strength of a bird of prey or a reptile, and the panache of a feline, convey the values of the Maison: tradition and innovation, craftsmanship, hand finishing, extreme care for details, as well as elegance. Through this eloquent mode of expression in which it excels, Vacheron Constantin reinterprets each animal family, from savannah to jungle, earth to sky, myth to reality. A universe that will naturally inspire the bespoke orders

their art in light-filled workshops located on the top floors of Geneva buildings. Exceptional bespoke timepieces were

devised at the time, brimming with a rare degree of technical and aesthetic complexity, inspired by astronomy, science and art. Today, Vacheron Constantin continues to take up these

highly technical and incredibly creative challenges through

offering its customers one-of-a-kind models, as well as specially commissioned bespoke watches. Engineers, designers, master watchmakers and artisans combine their imagination, their

expertise and their passion in giving life to this embodiment

of horological expertise and extreme refinement. Humming to the beat of a minute repeater or an armillary tourbillon, and

that are the essence of Les Cabinotiers.

embellished with enamelling and engraving, “Mécaniques

perpetuating the tradition of “Les Cabinotiers”, the name given

heightened, ready to leap into action.

Across three centuries, Vacheron Constantin has been

62

to the prestigious and cultivated watchmakers who exercised

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Sauvages” spring to vibrant life, gaze sharpened and instinct

OPEN TO THE PUBLIC THURSDAY 17 JANUARY Registration at sihh.org

29

th

SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE

14 – 17 JANUARY 2019 A. LANGE & SÖHNE | AUDEMARS PIGUET | BAUME & MERCIER | BOVET | CARTIER | GIRARD-PERREGAUX GREUBEL FORSEY | HERMÈS | IWC | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | MONTBLANC | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER PIAGET | RICHARD MILLE | ROGER DUBUIS | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN CARRÉ DES HORLOGERS | ARMIN STROM | CHRISTOPHE CLARET | DEWITT | ÉLÉGANTE BY F.P. JOURNE FERDINAND BERTHOUD | GRÖNEFELD | H. MOSER & CIE | HAUTLENCE | HYT | KARI VOUTILAINEN | LAURENT FERRIER MB&F | RESSENCE | RJ | ROMAIN GAUTHIER | SPEAKE-MARIN | URWERK

NEW COLLECTION THE ITALIAN-MADE FURNITURE THAT YOU HAVE ALWAYS DREAMED OF, NEW COLLECTION FOR THE LIVING, DINING AND BEDROOM AREAS, IS ON SALE AT SPECIAL PRICES. THE ITALIAN-MADE FURNITURE YOU HAVE IN-STORE. ALWAYS DREAMED OF, DISCOVER OUR FREE INTERIOR THAT DESIGN SERVICE FOR THE LIVING, DINING AND BEDROOM AREAS, IS ON SALE AT SPECIAL PRICES. DISCOVER OUR FREE INTERIOR DESIGN SERVICE IN-STORE. VISIT US AT: Dubai: Sheikh Zayed Road, Tel 04 3380777 | Umm Hurair Road , Tel 04 3377152 VISIT US AT:Landmark Tower, Tel 02 6444048 (Valet parking available) Abu Dhabi: Dubai: Sheikh Zayed Road, Tel 04 3380777 | Umm Hurair Road , Tel 04 3377152 Email: sales@westernfurniture-uae.com | www.natuzzi.com Abu Dhabi: Landmark Tower, Tel 02 6444048 (Valet parking available) Email: sales@westernfurniture-uae.com | www.natuzzi.com

NZ Melpot GMT DPS Nov 2018.indd All Pages

11/22/18 10

ALEXANDRE C watch collection

Boutiques : Avenues Mall KUWAIT CITY Tel 225 97 609 - Royal Plaza Mall DOHA Tel 441 31 430 Panorama Mall RIYADH Tel 112 816 159 - Thalia Mall JEDDAH Tel 122 635 031 City Centre Mall MANAMA Tel 175 81 208 - World Trade Centre Mall ABU DHABI Tel 263 13 030

www.charriol.com | www.facebook.com/CharriolOfficial KUWAIT : Trafalgar Tel 188 1188 OMAN : Muscat Watch Center Tel +968 245 02 886 QATAR : Al-Muftah Tel +974 444 41 320 SAUDI ARABIA : Al-Hussaini Trading Co. Tel +966 265 26 000 UAE Abu Dhabi : MR Khoory & Sons Tel +971 262 22 200

Cover Story FADI JAMIL

Zenith reflects far horizons DEFY EL PRIMERO 21 BLUE Zenith stunned the world in 2017 with the grand release of the new Zenith DEFY EL PRIMERO 21. A chronometric reinvention of accuracy and reliability, the DEFY EL PRIMERO 21 is the ultimate embodiment of the spirit of innovation that has coursed through Zenith’s blood for the past 150 years. Its natural charisma is beautifully showcased in this delightfully elegant true blue version.

68

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 69

DEFY EL PRIMERO 21 BLUE MOVEMENT

El Primero 9004 automatic Calibre: 14¼``` (Diameter: 32.80 mm) Thickness: 7.9 mm, Components: 293, Jewels: 53, Frequency 36,000 VpH (5 Hz), Power reserve approx. 50 hours, Special oscillating weight with “circular satined” motif, Blue mainplate FUNCTIONS

1/100th of a second chronograph functions Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock, Hours and minutes in the centre, Small seconds at 9 o’clock, - Central chronograph hand - 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock - 60-second counter at 6 o’clock CASE, DIAL & HANDS

Brushed Titanium case, Diameter: 44 mm Opening diameter: 35.5 mm, Thickness: 14.50 mm, Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides Case back: Transparent sapphire crystal Water resistance: 10 ATM, Dial: Openworked with two different-coloured counters, Hour markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova, Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova STRAP AND BUCKLE

Titanium Bracelet/ Blue Rubber / Black rubber covered with blue alligator leather coating Titanium double folding buckle

I

n 1969, Zenith launched El Primero, the first

adjustments. In addition to significantly improved

ever fully integrated automatic column-wheel

performance and mechanical structure, the design

chronograph movement, enabling 1/10th of a

of the TIME LAB-chronometer certified DEFY EL

second precision. The ultimate fulfilment of a quest for perfection and

PRIMERO 21 draws inspiration from the rugged good looks of its

a proven ability to create watchmaking legends, this groundbreaking

1969 predecessor. Framed by a 44 mm case made of grade 5 titanium,

model laid a new milestone in watchmaking history that had never

the openworked dial of the DEFY EL PRIMERO 21 offers a resolutely

been surpassed – until now. Half a century later, Zenith has once

contemporary background for the key identifying characteristics

again defied tradition and pushed all existing boundaries, leading us

of the legendary original: a star-tipped sweep-seconds hand, large

into the world of 1/100th of a second accuracy. A legend reborn, the

luminescent baton-type hands and facetted hour-markers all paying

Zenith DEFY EL PRIMERO 21 is the shining 21st century symbol of a

proud tribute in a stunning demonstration of futuristic brilliance.

new future for a brand with a truly unique guiding star.

70

Paradoxically an instant fix for anyone’s blues, the elegant and

When it comes to pursuing the extreme, Zenith knows no limits

efficient TIMELAB-chronometer certified DEFY EL PRIMERO 21 BLUE

The Zenith DEFY EL PRIMERO 21 represents a quantum leap in

features a gleaming titanium case with matching rhodium-plated

both performance and mechanical design. This is a competition

hour markers and hands. The openworked dial elegantly displays

against no-one but itself. The newly upgraded movement of this

a chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock, hours and

outstanding timepiece boasts a frequency of 360,000 A/H (50 Hz),

minutes in the centre, small seconds at 9 o’clock, black 60-second

ten times that of its world-famous El Primero predecessor, enabling

counter at 6 o’clock and the DEFY EL PRIMERO 21’s trademark blue

1/100th of a second precision. An exquisitely designed display

30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, offset by the unusual and visually

magnifies the effect of this astonishing frequency: the inner bezel

striking blue mainplate. Designed to please a range of tastes, the

bears a scale graduated from 1 to 100 around which a 1/100th of

DEFY EL PRIMERO 21 BLUE offers a choice of three striking straps

a second hand sweeps at a lightning speed of one turn per second,

from black rubber covered with a sophisticated blue alligator leather

offering unprecedented visual impact and a surreal time-travelling

coating; the comfort of supple blue rubber; or the sleekness of

experience for the lucky wearer.

Echoing the trend in modern

unadulterated titanium, all with a titanium double folding clasp.

engineering development and ensuring optimal performance,

This magnificent timepiece, endowed with a generous 50-hour

this incredible mechanical complication is achieved using a far

power reserve and water-resistant to 100 metres, is sure to please the

smaller number of components, minimizing tedious assembly and

most discerning gentleman diver.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

An international watch owners club offering its members year-round benefits In association with GMT Magazine, WorldTempus, Geneva Watch Tour and Watch Photo Awards

O pe ni ng 2 0 19 register now on

Photography: Karine Bauzin

www.fine-watch-club.com

Watch Photo Awards BRICE LECHEVALIER

3

1

4

6

1 © Gionibek Kudaibergen, A 2 ou 4 roues, août 2 © Christophe Musy, Bleu, mai 3 © Stéphane Perin, Vacances, juillet 4 © Ondrej Vislocky, Plaisirs de la table, septembre 5 © Henry Cookson, Sport, juin 6 © Lars Kehrel, Noir, octobre 5

2

And the winners are…

Sign up for the 2019 edition !

From May through October 2018, the first international watch photo competition open to the public attracted the participation of over one thousand watch owners from 50 countries.

Each month, the jury selected 10 photos on the respective theme and the public chose a winner. The resulting 60 photos were on show at Geneva’s Musée d’art et d’histoire during the exhibition jointly organized by the GPHG, the FHH and the HEAD. Other showings of these works are scheduled. The six prize-winning photos appear below and those who took them also won a weekend for two in a 5-star Geneva hotel.

See all the photos selected for 2018 and register for 2019 on watch-photo-awards.com

72

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

73

UAE MANSOUR JEWELLERS (ABU DHABI) - 02 626 4260 | MANSOUR JEWELLERS (DUBAI) - 04 228 1115 PARIS GALLERY (DUBAI) - 04 330 8289 | LEVANT (DUBAI) - 04 434 1227

QATAR - BLUE SALON - 04 446 6111 KUWAIT - TRAFALGAR GENERAL TRADING - 188 1188 SAUDI ARABIA - AL GHAZALI TRADING RIYADH - 011 474 4000 | JEDDAH - 012 647 3000 | KHOBAR - 013 898 0040

Interview VICTORIA TOWNSEND

“As you can imagine, having a woman designing watches in the Swiss mountains 110 years ago was unique.”

Flavio Pellegrini EBEL President

76

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

EBEL WATCHES:

Where beauty marries function.

Invited by EBEL to discover the new Sport Classic collection, prior to its launch last fall along with a new communications campaign, we had the opportunity to discuss the history of the brand and the direction it is taking with EBEL President Flavio Pellegrini at “La Villa Turque” in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.

Known as the cradle of Swiss watchmaking, La Chaux-de-Fonds

with watches, I was born in Le Locle! I had this opportunity to

watchmaker Eugène Blum and his watch designer wife Alice Levy.

asked me to participate in a task force to integrate EBEL into the

is the birthplace of EBEL watches, founded there in 1911 by

It is also where Charles-Edouard Jeanneret-Gris, more famously known as Le Corbusier, was born in 1887.

From among the many buildings and even cities constructed by

the great architect, “La Villa Turque”, built in La Chaux-de-Fonds

from 1912 to 1916, is a fine example of his early aesthetic and avant-garde designs of beauty and function in a modern home.

EBEL purchased the historic landmark in 1986; President Flavio Pellegrini told us why and how the building is a reference to the brand’s past, and an integral part of its future.

In 2003 you joined EBEL, acquired one year later by the MGI Group. Were you brought on board to oversee this?

No, I was young and had just joined EBEL after a short time in the Australian automotive industry. But I always wanted to work

join Movado Group and one year later they purchased EBEL. They Movado Group entity, probably one of the best experiences I have had. We restructured the full company, and it was the beginning of a nice era for EBEL under MGI. We launched Brasilia with Gisèle

Bundchen, went into the masculine market with football watches – the BTR, the Tekton. From junior level, I became Director of Sales

and Operations for EBEL and all the Swiss brands of the group,

so I witnessed strategic issues. It was quite exciting. But this is a feminine brand, and for us, the football approach didn’t work

very well. And that was just before the big crisis in 2008, when everything collapsed.

But basically, I saw everything, then took over CONCORD as a

brand, went back to EBEL at a senior level, and became President 3

years ago. With my team, we needed to really look into the brand and define a new position, a new strategy.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

77

What did you define?

We started by defining EBEL. What makes EBEL unique in this

winning Wimbledon with it on his wrist and at the same time a

for the future, starting with our huge heritage, founded here in

in the 70s and 80s.

landscape? And we defined 5 milestones that are our guidelines

La Chaux-de-Fonds. The second is the philosophy of this brand,

founded by a couple: Eugène Blum and Alice Levy. The name EBEL is an acronym: EB E(t) L. As you can imagine, having a

woman designing watches in the Swiss mountains 110 years ago was unique. And that femininity, that elegance, is still with us

today. No other brand can really give you that story. He was the watchmaker, and she was the designer of the watches.

The fifth milestone is this building where we are today. This beautiful but also functional building designed by Le Corbusier

that we purchased just over 30 years ago emphasizes the fact

that we are a house of design. A brand like Jaeger-LeCoultre can talk about its manufacture; we are a house of design. And we have this beautiful house -- “La Villa Turque”, which is now the house of EBEL. Le Corbusier was very much ahead of his time -

The third element is the logo, which was completely disappearing

his buildings used the domino system to have big windows, big

each other, which leads to our slogan “Beauty marries function”,

example the bracelet on our Wave watches that we launched three

from EBEL. It’s the double “E” where the letters appear to kiss

spaces...this was incredible, and functional. Like our watches: for

referring to the beauty of Alice who married the function of

years ago is not only beautiful, but also very comfortable.

Classic. In the 1970s it defined the “sport chic” segment. At the

What are the EBEL lines?

have the mix; it was initiated by this watch, with Boris Becker

years. Now, we have returned to the origins, with a flat, very thin

Eugène.

This brings us to the fourth guideline: our Sport

time, you had sporty watches, and elegant watches. You didn’t

78

businessman wearing it with a nice suit. This established EBEL

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Sport Classic has undergone several design changes over the

SPORT CLASSIC comes in 3 sizes for ladies and gents. In stainless steel, or stainless steel and 18K gold case elements with steel and gold PVD wave links on the bracelet. Alternating brushed and polished finish, anthracite, ivory or coloured dials, rhodium-plated Roman numerals and facetted, diamondpolished rhodium-plated hands. Eight index markers in diamonds and diamond-set bezels on some ladies’ models; diamond-polished rhodium-plated sweep seconds hand on the 40 mm men’s model. Quartz and automatic versions. Water resistant to 50 meters.

bracelet, screws on the hexagonal case…this is our signature. The

sales service centres are around the globe, then the watches come

We have five active lines, with three that are really important:

Our prices range from CHF1,300 with taxes for the entry Discovery

bracelet is perfectly integrated, with an updated security clasp.

the Sport Classic for which we are introducing many novelties this year, the Wave which is our commercial interpretation of the original Wave, the third is the Discovery – our sporty

interpretation of EBEL, slightly bigger, still the hexagonal case but with a sporty bracelet for a different offer and at a nice price. And

with a snake or alligator strap that you can change yourself. The 2 last collections – the jewellery lines – are Brasilia and Beluga.

Small today, but with a new Beluga to be launched in 2019 -- we’re

doing the same thing as with Sport Classic – going back to what Beluga was in 86 – jewellery!!

What are your movements and prices?

We are not a manufacture. The majority of our watches carry ETA

movements, with 80% quartz. Seventy per cent of our watches are for ladies. We have quality control, and watchmakers that

assemble some of the watches, but the majority is outside. After-

to our European headquarters in Bienne, Switzerland.

model, to CHF30,000 for a Sport Classic gold 29 mm. The sweet spot is around CHF3,600.

And your new communications campaign?

Modern communications are very important for us. We did not go to Baselworld in 2018. Instead, we went to Davos, where we

invited all our customers, had time to speak with all our partners, to explain the digital change to them…And with the money we saved, we created a digital center at our headquarters in New York and hired a CDO. His role will be to give to each brand of the group a toolbox that will allow us to master the digital revolution.

We are not there yet, but will eventually have a big impact. We

diverted the money to something more important, towards the end consumer, who was not at Baselworld – it was B2B.

For EBEL, our new campaign is based upon the (colourful) drawings of Le Corbusier.”

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 79

Focus

CARL F. BUCHERER

FADI JAMIL

82

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

ODE TO A GOLDEN ERA:

The exquisite retro style Manero Flyback The latest addition to the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback collection combines the beauty of precious metal with unabashed retro charm and sophisticated watchmaking technology. The new Flyback Chronograph boasts an 18 k rose gold case that houses a column-wheel mechanism, ensuring both precision and ease of use. The vintage character of the timepiece gets an elegant contemporary twist thanks to black and red accents and a kudu-leather strap.

BALANCING RETRO CHARM AND MODERN CONTRAST The new Manero Flyback Chronograph cuts a timeless and refined figure on the

wrist. Taking design cues from Carl F. Bucherer models from the 1960s and 1970s, the timepiece captures the spirit of these bygone eras. The smooth curves of the 43 mm

case in 18 k rose gold have been inspired by the watches of those decades, as have the

timepiece’s other carefully considered design elements: convex sapphire crystal, striking mushroom push buttons, perforated rose gold-colored lancet-shaped hands, and wedge-shaped applied indices.

The decidedly vintage flair of the new model is beautifully balanced by its modern

elements. The black sunburst-finished dial pops against the two silver-colored totalizator subdials – a small seconds display and a 30-minute counter – while bold red accents

such as the “Flyback” lettering and the outline of the chapter ring add another stunning contrast. The handsome horological package is rounded out by a slim stopwatch second

hand in red, a tachymeter scale, and a date display at 6 o’clock. The strap is crafted from

dark gray kudu leather with a suede finish and features red contrast stitching along with an 18 k rose gold folding pin buckle.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 83

Manero Flyback REFERENCE NUMBER:00.10919.03.33.02 MOVEMENT: CFB 1970 caliber automatic movement, diameter 30.4 mm, height 7.9 mm, 25 jewels,

power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS: Chronograph: minute and 1/4th second counter, flyback: tachymeter, date, hour, minute, small seconds CASE: 18 k rose gold, double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, sapphire crystal case back, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 43 mm, height 14.45 mm DIAL: Black STRAP: Dark gray kudu leather, 18 k rose gold pin buckle

NO COMPROMISES NECESSARY: THE UTMOST IN SOPHISTICATION AND USER-FRIENDLINESS The beauty of the Manero Flyback is not just limited to its exterior. It is

powered by the CFB 1970 caliber automatic movement with 42 hours of power reserve, which is beautifully decorated with intricate circular- grain finishing and Geneva stripes. Its column-wheel mechanism has a long tradition in watchmaking. Its complex chronograph movement is considered to be

especially elegant and makes starting, stopping, and resetting incredibly easy.

The flyback function of the chronograph is also particularly user-friendly: a

simple push is all that is needed to reset the stopwatch second hand and get it going again. The beating heart of the watch can be admired through the seethrough sapphire-crystal case back.

THE MANY FACES OF THE MANERO FLYBACK FAMILY The new Manero Flyback in rose gold is the eighth timepiece to join this

multifaceted watch collec- tion. Variations include a timeless classic model

with a rose gold case and a black, silver, or champagne- colored dial, a robust stainless steel model with a silver-colored or blue gray dial, and a retro style master- piece with a black dial housed in a stainless steel case. Each of

these stunning chronographs embodies the Carl F. Bucherer spirit of Swiss watchmaking excellence from Lucerne.

84

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Focus

BAUME & MERCIER

CLOÉ MUGNY

C for

complicated

The term ‘complicated’ covers an extremely broad spectrum when it comes to watches. At one end lies the utter simplicity of three-hand models, and at the other, the highly technical nature of Grand Complications. The space between these two extremes includes models endowed with so-called “small complications”, and that is exactly the choice made by Baume & Mercier for its three new models in the Clifton collection, equipped with the following small complications : complete calendar, retrograde date and power-reserve display. The complete calendar version displays the days and months through two apertures in the upper part of the dial, as well as the date by means of a blued hand gliding over a matching-colored minute track. A third aperture at 6 o’clock is dedicated to the moon-phase indication, appearing against a dark backdrop making a striking contrast with the immaculately white dial swept over by dauphine-type hours and minutes hands. The midnight blue strap adorned with tone-on-tone stitching adds a touch of color to this relatively complicated, yet delightfully endearing model.

Clifton Small Complications – Complete calendar CASE : polished and satin-brushed steel, domed glareproofed sapphire crystal (one inner face),

water-resistant to 50m, open caseback secured by four screws SIZE : 43mm, 12.3mm thickness MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Dubois Dépraz 9000, 42h power reserve, 28,800 vph FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, day, month, date, moon phase DIAL : white, Arabic numerals and hour-markers, blue minute track STRAPS : bleu alligator leather with tone-ontone stitching, adjustable triple folding clasp with safety pusher

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 85

Focus

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

MICHÈLE BRUNNER

Light in stock Since its launch in 2012, the Datograph is one of the favorite timepieces among collectors and fans of the Saxony-based brand. First of all, for its technical qualities, including the flyback function serving to perform several successive timing operations simply by pressing the pusher ; as well as its jumping chronograph minutes advancing in one-notch increments as soon as the central hand passes the 60th second, a token of great precision. Other notable and much sought-after features include its large date and its power-reserve indicator (ab/auf – up/down). Finally, these indications are beautifully arranged on an extremely legible dial, a style signature of A. Lange & Söhne. The new “Lumen” version now brings the Datograph another type of clarity radiating a subtly enigmatic aura.

While the three large hands bear a traditional luminescent coating, the halo of green light suffusing the counters, the external dial ring, the tip of the power-reserve pointer, and above all the large date, stems from “Lumen” technology. A semi-transparent treated sapphire dial filters the light, while allowing through the ultraviolet rays required to recharge the luminous pigments with phosphorescent energy during the daytime hours. The watch thus glows with a diffuse light in the dark, almost resembling that of a screen. Another of the sapphire dial’s assets lies in its manner of revealing the beautiful circular-grained mainplate and the date disks.

Datograph Up/Down “Lumen” CASE : platinum, sapphire caseback SIZE : 41mm, 13.4mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding Caliber L951.7,

18,000 vph, 60h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds with stop-seconds device, flyback chronograph, power reserve, large date DIAL : nickel silver outer ring, treated sapphire inner segment STRAPS : black alligator leather, platinum pin buckle 200-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

86

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Focus

H. MOSER & CIE.

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Endeavour Diamonds Bucherer Blue Editions Heritage Diamonds Bucherer Blue Editions CASE : stainless steel, sapphire caseback, water-resistant

to 30m DIAMETER : 38mm MOVEMENT : mechanical selfwinding (Caliber HMC 200, 72h power reserve), automatic bidirectional pawl winding mechanism, rotor engraved with blue-coated H. Moser logo, Straumann® hairspring with flat terminal curve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds DIAL : fumé with sunburst motif STRAP : hand-sewn caramelcolored kudu leather with blue leather lining, pin buckle

Rarely

blue

A triple first for these two family-owned brands that already cooperate in terms of distribution in Switzerland : the first Bucherer Blue Edition limited series without any blue visible on the front (but instead on the back on the strap lining and rotor) ; the first men’s/women’s pairing for H. Moser & Cie ; and above all the first ladies’ watch from the venerable Manufacture, also featuring an unprecedented 38mm diameter. Sold exclusively in Bucherer boutiques, these two self-winding watches share a splendid fumé dial and stainless steel case, as well as a gold oscillating weight featuring a shade of blue matching that of the balance-wheel and bridge in an extremely distinctive manner. The men’s model is inspired by the 1920s, while the diamonds on the ladies’ watch give it a timeless appeal.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 87

Focus

BREGUET

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Marine Alarme Musicale 5547

Marine 5517

CASE : titanium, rose gold or white gold, fluted caseband,

Available in titanium, rose gold or white gold, with gold dial (sunburst slate grey or guilloché silver or blue)

sapphire caseback, screw-lock crown, water-resistant to 50m DIAMETER : 40mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Caliber 519F, 45h power reserve), silicon balance-spring FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date, alarm, 2nd time zone STRAP : rubber or leather, folding clasp

The spirit of maritime exploration

It took no less than four models available in titanium, white or rose gold to form the flotilla of the third-generation Marine collection by Breguet, and thereby pay tribute to its founder who was appointed watchmaker to the French Royal Navy in 1815. What a responsibility when one recalls that marine chronometers were the equivalent of our modern-day GPS trackers ! He made 80 of them during his lifetime. Above and beyond his watchmaking genius, Abraham-Louis Breguet was well aware of these phenomena, as proved by his invention of the tourbillon. The new Marine collection is distinguished by its aesthetic approach to the countless nautical references : hour-markers trapeze-shaped like nautical pennants, a fluted case pattern inspired by docks, a maritime symbol on the seconds hand, a folding clasp shaped like a ship’s wheel, and even the screws ! Alongside the self-winding model and the alarm and GMT watch presented here, the 2018 vintage also includes a chronograph and a running equation of time model.

88

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Focus

BELL & ROSS

DAVID CHOKRON

Bell & Ross BR-X1 Military CASE : High Resistance Titanium and ceramic, transparent

sapphire crystal, solid back with opening centered on the balance, water-resistant to 100m SIZE : 45 x 45mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, skeletonized, Caliber BR 313, 50h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph DIAL : openworked, khaki, tachymeter scale, skeletonized hands filled with SuperLumiNova® STRAP : perforated black rubber strap with black PVD-coated steel pin buckle 250-PIECE LIMITED SERIES

Robust

green

Moving steadily upscale, Bell&Ross is offering an ever-increasing number of more complex and more technical models. The range that best embodies this upwardly mobile trend is the BR-X1. This chronograph line is distinguished by its skeletonized dials and movements, its signature square cases, as well as an abundance of sophisticated details. Rocker push-buttons, a wealth of materials, a three-dimensional design, numerous indentations : the X1 is brimming with masculine features. For the very first time, this range is aligned with the brand’s armed-forces trajectory, as embodied in the Military series featuring a play on khaki green and black. And to give substance to this commando spirit, Bell&Ross is introducing a new material that the brand has named HRT, for High Resistance Titanium. The green parts of the case have undergone a microarc plasma anodization treatment. This process that involves oxidizing titanium using electro-plasma technology profoundly transforms the basic material, pure titanium, into titanium dioxide. Perfectly biocompatible since it is used in the medical and aerospace fields, it produces a lastingly green material resistant to impacts, friction and metal fatigue. The black parts are in ceramic, another sturdy material entirely in tune with the Military spirit.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 89

Focus

ANONIMO

MICHÈLE BRUNNER

Nautilo Leopard 2019 Limited Edition CASE : 316L stainless steel and DLC, glareproofed

domed sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 200m, engraved caseback SIZE : 44.4mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Sellita SW200-1 movement, 38h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : sunburst black, hours and hands enhanced with Swiss Super-LumiNova® STRAPS : corduraeffect fireproof straps 98-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

Racing feline In 2018, Anonimo served for the fourth time running as official timekeeper for the Leopard Racing Team competing in the Moto3 world championship category which offers young drivers a springboard towards Moto2 and MotoGP. At the end of 2017 in Valencia, newly crowned Moto3 World Champion Joan Mir presented the first Nautilo Leopard watch by Anonimo, adorned in Leopard’s turquoise blue and black colors. The two new 2018 Leopard Team drivers wore the watch this season, although they were unable to match Mir’s performance. Will the 2019 Nautilo Leopard limited edition, unveiled in November in Milan, bring them more luck next year ? Issued in a 97-piece series, it flaunts the Leopard blue on its unidirectional bezel even more boldly than before, as well as on the large 20 and 40 numerals. The color also adorns the inner bezel ring, the minute track on the dial as well as the counterweight on the sweep-seconds hand shaped like the Anonimo logo. A sturdy, high-performance model evoking the Honda bikes driven by the Leopard Racing team, the stainless steel and DLC Nautilo also features an extremely precise mechanical ‘engine’: the Swiss Made self-winding SW 200-1 movement. The fireproof strap and Leopard engraving on the caseback complement the sporting look of this model.

90

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Focus

MONTBLANC

MARIE LE BERRE

TimeWalker Chronograph Manufacture CASE : satin-brushed stainless steel, ceramic fixed bezel,

domed sapphire crystal, smoky sapphire crystal caseback opening, water-resistant to 100m DIAMETER : 43mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Montblanc MB 25.10 caliber, 46h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, tachymeter scale, date DIAL : black and white ‘reverse panda’, luminescent hands and hour-markers STRAP : distressed brown Sfumato calfskin, stainless steel triple folding clasp

Reverse panda Through its TimeWalker watches, Montblanc pays tribute to the history of its Manufacture Minerva, and particularly to the spirit of competition that enabled it to distinguish itself in motorsports during the early 20th century.

In 2018, the collection is welcoming two new chronographs equipped with ‘reverse panda’ dials. Successfully launched during the 1960s and 70s, this extremely legible type of dial is characterized by the contrast between black and white : black counters against a white background for the ‘panda’ type watch faces ; and white counters on a black backdrop for the ‘reverse panda’ versions.

Even more than the new two-counter TimeWalker Chronograph Automatic, the most authentic example of the ‘reverse panda’ type is the TimeWalker Chronograph Manufacture : its three counters at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock evoke the animal’s eyes and nose. It is naturally housed in the signature imposing case with half-skeletonized lugs recalling the air vents on a car’s bodywork, along with a knurled crown reminiscent of vintage petrol tank caps. Its retro nature is accentuated by the perforated distressed leather strap crafted by the Montblanc Pelleteria in Florence. Meanwhile, the in-house movement features a state-of-the-art monobloc rotor made of black rhodium-plated tungsten and shaped like a steering wheel.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 91

Your comfort is our priority

A stunning Moorish style hotel apartments designed with modern amenities at the heart of Dubai Media City. Arjaan by Rotana Dubai overlooks the Palm Jumeirah with balconies open onto picturesque cityscape and sea views.

Be enchanted by the stylish premium hotel apartments with a private plunge pool.

Enjoy scrumptious cuisine at Cilantro restaurant, relax by the swimming pool or workout at Bodylines Fitness & Wellness Club. A convenient home away from home, where you are only a few minutes away from Mall of the Emirates, Dubai Marina Mall and other Dubai’s major shopping destinations.

For reservations or more information, please visit rotana.com or call +971 (0)4 436 0000 or email: res.arjaandmc@rotana.com

Arjaan Hotel Apartments P.O. Box: 502828, Dubai Media City, UAE.T: +971 (0)4 436 0000, F: +971 (0)4 436 0111, arjaan.dmc@rotana.com

rotana.com

Collector’s Corner

By Gabriel Miles

Patek Philippe. An extremely rare, attractive and exceptionally well preserved pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, reference 2499, manufactured in 1971.

94 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

In search of lost times The watch auctions organized by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at Geneva’s La Réserve hotel on November 11th and 12th are looking increasingly promising, characterized by quality, rarity and well-chosen themes.

Rolex. An exceptionally fine, rare and important pink gold triple calendar wristwatch with moonphases and two-tone dial, reference 6062, manufactured in 1953.

Patek Philippe. An extremely rare, beautiful and historically important white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with centre seconds and moonphases, reference 2497, manufactured in 1954.

T

he watch collecting world is buzzing, as the horological wonders assembled by the auctioneers Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo for this edition compose

yet another exceptional line-up. With just 150 lots on offer, the selection process has clearly been drastic and retained only the very finest models. For this session, a distinctive theme will be in the spotlight, with a first day entirely dedicated to TAG Heuer chronographs from the period during which the brilliant Jack Heuer headed the company, from 1961 to 1982. 

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 95

A range of 49 timepieces from the collections of two major brand aficionados – Richard Crosthwaite and Paul Gavin, who have written important reference works on creations from the Maison – will be on offer. These iconic models will include some particularly coveted watches, such as the 1970s Carrera specially created for the legendary Indianapolis Motor Speedway, and sold at the time exclusively in track-side boutiques ; as well as the extremely rare 1962 Autavia “Big Sub”, with its three oversized dials and sword-shaped hands, estimated at between CHF 80,000 and 120,000, which will be the star of this auction. Observers will also note the appearance of a distinctive brand-new timepiece donated by TAG Heuer on behalf of the Save the Children charity : the Autavia Jack Heuer N°01 Anniversary watch.

So what about the hundred or so lots slated to go under the hammer the following day ? A number of miniature marvels will be unveiled, some of which are particularly important. These will notably include the two Rolex Explorer watches worn by mountaineers John Gill and George Band for their Everest ascension ;

Omega. A historically important and unique stainless steel prototype tourbillon wristwatch, manufactured in 1947

96

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Autavia “Big Sub” ref.2446M. An extremely rare and fine stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with big subsidiary dials and large bezel accompanied by its Original Certificate of Guarantee.

the only yellow gold Daytona with a blue dial ; and above all the extremely rare triple calendar 6062 model with a pink gold Oyster case framing a dial with Arabic 3 and 6 o’clock numerals – of which only three are known to have been issued. The session highlights will doubtless be Patek Philippe watches, with several exceptional lots. Among them, a white gold ref. 2496 perpetual calendar of which there are only three known examples, equipped with an inverted magnifying window ; and a World Time with two crowns and a Cottier system of which the tenth has just been found. Nonetheless, the star model will doubtless be the ref. 2499 pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph, a worthy successor to the 1518 and free in this instance of a tachymeter scale, thus ensuring an exceptional dial diameter and legibility.

Only six of these timepieces are known to date and it will doubtless attract strong bidding. Alongside these models topping the billing, a whole host of other treasures await collectors on this second day. Other brands, other worlds and other temptations that may well cause us to turn a temporarily deaf ear to the voice of reason.

Monaco “Dark Lord” ref.740.303N A very rare square shaped black PVD-coated stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black dial, two subsidiary registers, date at 6 o’clock, orange chronograph hands, box, guarantee booklet and hang tag.

Carrera “Indianapolis Speedway” ref 3147N. A fine and extremely rare stainless steel calendar chronograph wristwatch with black dial made for the Indianapolis Speedway shop.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 97

Portfolio Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin FREAK VISION

Ulysse Nardin UN-118 MOVEMENT, MARINE CHRONOMETERS

Ulysse Nardin MARINE TORPILLEUR

Ulysse Nardin MARINE TORPILLEUR MILITARY

Ulysse Nardin MARINE REGATTA

Ulysse Nardin EXECUTIVE SKELETON

Ulysse Nardin EXECUTIVE SKELETON

Ulysse Nardin FREAK OUT

Jet-Set

By Fadi Jamil

Address Boulevard

108 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

A

s the most sophisticated expression of a city lifestyle resort, Address Boulevard is a new, aspirational standard of hospitality set in the heart of Downtown Dubai. Building upon the stellar reputation of Address Hotels + Resorts, it provides

an experience of luxury and leisure that is second to none.

Presenting a vibrant dimension of refined therapies at The Spa at Address Boulevard, which are indulgent and restorative in equal measure, it is the perfect weekday escape and an exquisite weekend retreat.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 109

THE SPA AT ADDRESS BOULEVARD With a carefully curated selection of beauty, grooming and wellness-enhancing products and treatments, including the coveted Carita and La Sultan de Saba, The Spa at Address Boulevard follows our tradition of providing genuine holistic care to our guests. From the outdoor relaxation pool to the Fitness Centre and the hammam to the private spa suites and salons, it is veritably unmatched in its unique combination of offerings. Staffed by expert therapists skilled in a variety of disciplines, it’s where asense of wellness revives you from the inside out.

110 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 111

112 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

THE RESTAURANT AT ADDRESS BOULEVARD The signature dining space, The Restaurant at Address simulates an experience of a luxurious European apartment of a well-travelled family in the 1920s, providing classic dishes, and great food in sublime surroundings. A stylish, considered and contemporary venue, the menu and the modular spaces of The Restaurant at Address have been designed to bring people together through the act of sharing, whilst creating intimacy through unique dining experiences.

Additionally, business guests have the convenience of being in close proximity to the Dubai International Financial Centre and Dubai International Convention Centre. The property can be effortlessly accessed from Sheikh Zayed Road and via the Dubai Metro. An air-conditioned travellator connects Address Boulevard to Burj Khalifa/The Dubai Mall Metro Station and The Dubai Mall. www.addresshotels.com

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 113

Zoom GPHG 2018 BRICE LECHEVALIER

SAMI KANAAN, the Mayor of Geneva, thanked and congratulated the organizers

of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève for the quality of the event, while assuring them of his support, as well as saluting representatives of the watch brands for their dynamism and creativity.

BOVET WINS THE “AIGUILLE D’OR” GRAND PRIX

The jury rewarded the exceptional

There was no shortage of emotion and surprises at the 18th Grand Prix

Two personalities elicited a particularly enthusiastic reaction from the

d’Horlogerie de Genève, which took place on November 9th at the Théâtre

1,300 spectators, indeed symbolizing a bridge between generations : Rex-

du Léman and was broadcast live on worldtempus.com. In carrying off

hep Rexhepi, watchmaker and founder of the Akrivia brand, which won the

the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix, Bovet was rewarded both for its extraordi-

Men’s Watch Prize ; and Jean-Claude Biver. The entire gathering stood up

nary Récital 22 Grand Récital and for its perseverance, after seeing its models

to salute the talent and career of LVMH’s non-executive Chairman of the

nominated at the GPHG for more than ten years. Generally speaking, the

watch division, who gave a moving speech punctuated by tears and bursts

jury showed a preference for exceptional timepieces and niche or inde-

of laughter. Finally, GMT is proud and happy about the award received by

pendent brands rather than brands belonging to major groups. Van Cleef &

its co-founder Pierre Jacques, now at the head of De Bethune, winner of the

Arpels shone by winning two prizes for its ladies’ watches (including a one-

highly significant Chronometry award for the DB25 Starry Varius Chronomètre

of-a-kind model), while Chanel, Hermès, Vacheron Constantin and Seiko

Tourbillon.

also found favor with the international jury. Bulgari was one of the favorite candidate brands with five selected watches (in itself a record synonymous with success) and was sometimes surprisingly pipped at the post.

116 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

BOVET 1822,

Récital 22 Grand Récital

PASCAL RAFFY, owner of Bovet : “This is the 28 th prize I am receiving for

Bovet, but the first at the GPHG and the most important in my view”.

Representatives of the prize-winning brands at the GPHG 2018 : PASCAL RAFFY (Owner of Bovet 1822), JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER (Non-Executive Chairman of the LVMH Group Watch division, Chairman of Hublot & Zenith), UWE AHRENDT (CEO of Nomos Glashütte), MARIA & RICHARD HABRING (CEOs and owners of Habring2), ATSUSHI KANEKO (Director of Seiko Watch Corporation), REXHEP REXHEPI (Watchmaker and Founder of Akrivia), NICOLAS BEAU (Global Head Watch and Fine Jewelry Business, Chanel), ERIC DE ROCQUIGNY (International Operation & Métiers Director of Van Cleef & Arpels), LAURENT DORDET (La Montre Hermès CEO), LAURENT FERRIER (Founder), MARCO BORRACCINO (Co-founder and CEO of Singer Reimagined), PIERRE JACQUES (President and CEO of De Bethune), STEPHEN FORSEY (Co-founder of Greubel Forsey), KONSTANTIN CHAYKIN (Founder), RÉMI MAILLAT (Founder of Krayon), CHRISTIAN SELMONI (Style and Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin)

“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix : Bovet 1822, Récital 22 Grand Récital

Chronometry Watch Prize : De Bethune, DB25 Starry Varius

Revival Prize : Vacheron Constantin, Historiques Triple calendrier 1942

Chronomètre Tourbillon

Innovation Prize : Krayon, Everywhere Horizon

Mechanical Exception Watch Prize : Greubel Forsey, Grande Sonnerie

Ladies’ Watch Prize : Chanel, Boy-friend Skeleton

Sports Watch Prize : Seiko, Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Re-creation

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize : Van Cleef & Arpels,

Jewellery Watch Prize : Van Cleef & Arpels, Secret de Coccinelle

Lady Arpels Planetarium

Artistic Crafts Watch Prize : Hermès, Arceau Robe du soir

Men’s Watch Prize : Akrivia, Chronomètre Contemporain

“Petite Aiguille” Prize : Habring2, Doppel-Felix

Men’s Complication Prize : Laurent Ferrier,

Challenge Watch Prize : Nomos Glashütte, Tangente neomatik 41 Update

Galet Annual Calendar School Piece

Audacity Prize : Konstantin Chaykin, Clown

Chronograph Watch Prize : Singer Reimagined,

Special Jury Prize : Jean-Claude Biver, non-executive chairman of the

Singer Track1 Hong Kong Edition

LVMH Watch Division, chairman of Hublot and Zenith.

Expert analysis and video available in the GPGH dossier on worldtempus.com

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 117

STANDING OVATION for the Special Jury Prize, which brought a smile to the face of Carine

Maillard, Director of the GPHG (below right). Stephen Forsey (Greubel Forsey) and Julien Tornare (Zenith) gladly join in the jubilant applause.

Emotion, humor and friendly companionship were the winners of the encounter between GEORGES DUBOIS, the 97-year-old watchmaker who trained at the Geneva Watchmaking School, and CHRISTOPHER LANZ, laureate of the 2018 Best Young Watchmaker Prize.

AUREL BACS, President of the GPHG jury and founder of Phillips, Bacs & Russo, brilliantly taking on the greatest challenge of all, namely summing up the career of JeanClaude Biver in two minutes.

118 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Exceptional watchmaker and entrepreneur REXHEP REXHEPI (whose Akrivia brand name means ‘precision’ in Greek), won the Men’s Watch Prize for his Chronomètre Contemporain.

After a powerful and touching presentation by Jury president Aurel Bacs, who personally awarded him the Special Jury Prize, JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER received a triumphant welcome on stage.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 119

PIERRE JACQUES CEO De

Bethune, also thanked the jury on behalf of Denis Flageollet, “the soul of De Bethune”. This was the third time he was up on stage at the GPHG, after receiving the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix in 2011.

Canadian singer VÉRONIC DICAIRE and French actor EDOUARD BAER managed to enchant and entertain the audience, who paradoxically lost track of time during this memorable ceremony.

120 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Ceremony presenter EDOUARD BAER had his first encounter last year with NICOLAS BEAU (Global Head Watch and Fine Jewelry Business, Chanel), who returned on this occasion to accept the Ladies’ Watch Prize for Chanel’s Boy-friend Skeleton model.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS was the other big winner of the GPHG

2018, with the Ladies Complication Prize for the Lady Arpels Planetarium, and the Jewellery Watch Prize for its Secret de Coccinnelle.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 121

LAURENT DORDET (CEO La Montre Hermès)

received the Métiers d’Art Watch Prize for the Hermès Arceau Robe du soir watch.

CHRISTIAN SELMONI (Style and Heritage Director at

Vacheron Constantin) was awarded the Revival Prize for the Historical Triple Calendar 1942.

122 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

With a broad smile on his face, MARCO BORRACINO asked Nicolas Wiederrecht (Agenhor) to join him on stage for the Chronograph Watch Prize awarded to Singer Reimagined, Singer Track1 Hong Kong Edition.

ATSUSHI KANEKO (Director of Seiko Watch

Corporation) holding the Sports Watch trophy, awarded for the Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Re-creation watch.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 123

Zoom FADI JAMIL

LONGINES

Starts the New Year with a Successful Edition of the HH Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum Endurance Cup Dubai (United Arab Emirates) / Saint-Imier (Switzerland), January 2019 – The New Year started on an exhilarating note with the 2019 edition of the HH Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum Endurance Cup presented by Longines. The prestigious event was hosted at the Dubai International Endurance City and had the illustrious watchmaker as timekeeper for another consecutive year.

Once again, Longines marked a successful turn as the Presenting Partner, Official Timekeeper and Official Watch of His Highness Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum Endurance Cup. The event began early in the morning with a buffet breakfast after which guests were escorted into the desert in 4x4 vehicles in order to watch all the action closely.

Featuring some of the top names from the world of endurance riding, the keenly awaited race has participants compete over a distance of 160 km. This year, the Endurance Cup had the top two winners from the F3 stables; Abdulla Ghanim Al Marri in 1st place and Salim Said Al Owais in 2nd place while the third place was won by Salem Hamad Al Kitbi from the M7 Endurance stables. The winners received an impressive trophy and Abdulla Ghanim Al Marri also received a stylish Longines timepiece.

Elegance, Performance and Tradition are values that both equine sport and Longines share.

The Swiss Watchmaker has been a significant partner of equestrian sport and endurance riding in particular, with the brand’s passion for sports dating back to 1878. Longines’ longstanding equestrian involvement and partnerships have made them an indispensable part of the equestrian world.

124 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 125

126 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 127

T

H

E

A

R

Big Bang Ferrari Magic Gold.

Case crafted using a scratch-resistant 18K gold alloy invented and patented by Hublot: Magic Gold. In-house chronograph UNICO movement. Interchangeable strap using patented One-Click system.

Limited edition of 250 pieces.

T

O

F

F

U

S

I

O

N