GMT ME NO 21 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2019 I MARCH 2019
Interviews Nicolas Beau
Global Head of Watches and Fine Jewelry Business Development, Chanel
Julien Haenny
General Manager of the Fine Watch Club
TEST BENCH Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Chronograph SIHH BACKSTAGE Summary from Seven Brand Managers
AED | SR | QR: 20 BD | OR | KD | JD: 2
Concord
LEB: 9000
Saratoga Chronograph A thoroughbred timepiece with a proven pedigree GMT ME No 21 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2019 21
9 771660 110613
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TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM.
AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES THE DUBAI MALL | MALL OF THE EMIRATES
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AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM | INFRARED PHOTOGRAPHY
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C r e a t i n g n ew h e i g h t s The new Montblanc 1858 Geosphere. Spirit of Mountain Exploration. montblanc.com/1858
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We’re devoted to the classic. But reject the status quo. We keep the best of the past. The best watchmaking practices, the best designs. And push the boundaries of what’s new. Born for a purpose. Field-tested to the extreme. For those who are up for anything. Those who face their fears. Those who reinvent themselves every day. A TUDOR is #BornToDare
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TUDOR 1926
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KLEPCYS VERTICAL TOURBILLON 4N Rose Gold & DLC Limited edition 38 pieces Ref. 539.505.GD.A
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Memories are the one gift you give to yourself.
Two Together – The ideal package to indulge in luxurious accommodations while enjoying upto 15% savings when booking two consecutive nights. For reservations, call (973) 1758 0000 or visit ritzcarlton.com/bahrain.
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ALEXANDRE C watch collection
Boutiques : Avenues Mall KUWAIT CITY Tel 225 97 609 - Souk Al-Kout Kuwait Mall KUWAIT CITY Tel 239 30 392 - Royal Plaza Mall DOHA Tel 441 31 430 Mall of DHAHRAN Tel 265 26 000 - Panorama Mall RIYADH Tel 112 816 159 - Thalia Mall JEDDAH Tel 122 635 031 Avenues Mall MUSCAT Tel 220 05 224 - City Centre Mall MANAMA Tel 175 81 208 - World Trade Centre Mall ABU DHABI Tel 263 13 030
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KUWAIT : Trafalgar Tel 188 1188 OMAN : Muscat Watch Center Tel +968 245 02 886 QATAR : Al-Muftah Tel +974 444 41 320 SAUDI ARABIA : Al-Hussaini Trading Co. Tel +966 265 26 000 UAE Abu Dhabi : MR Khoory & Sons Tel +971 262 22 200
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Editorial SPRING 2019
T
his month, the world witness one of the largest international trade shows Baselworld 2019 - the world watch and Jewelry show which will be anticipated through a period of five days will be expecting 600 manufactures on display.
Baselworld was launched in 1917 in the Swiss City of Basel under the name of «Swiss Design Fair Basel». In 1986, Non-European companies were invited to the show for the first time. However, Baselword, the world’s largest and grandest watch event has stopped in popularity in recent years. This year, Baselworld has 4 major changes and it is interesting to mention them very briefly. The main one with no doubt was the departure of Swatch Group which surprised not only the management of the fair but also the the watch connoisseurs as well as the press members. The second change is that Baselworld will synchronise with SIHH in 2020 where the two major timepiece events will take place one after the other, making it easier for visitors attending both exhibitions. The third important change is with regards to the state-of-theart showroom; this year the accumulate craftsmanship of talented horlogists will come to life throughout the venues new showroom halls. This will lead us to the last change which is the Seiko Iconic Aston which will be unveiled at Baselworld this year in celebration of the 50th anniversary. FADI JAMIL I Publisher, Editor-in-Chief
Interviews
GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM
Nicolas Beau
Global Head of Watches and Fine Jewelry Business Development, Chanel
Julien Haenny
Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com
General Manager of the Fine Watch Club
TEST BENCH Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Chronograph SIHH BACKSTAGE Summary from Seven Brand Managers
Head of Creative / Graphic Designer: KYLE EVIDENTE | creative@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com
GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma
Concord
Saratoga Chronograph A thoroughbred timepiece with a proven pedigree GMT ME No 21 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2019 21
9 771660 110613
© Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.
GMT ME MAGAZINE NO21 2019
28
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
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We assemble every single watch twice. Because perfection takes time.
For us, perfection is a matter of principle. This is why, on principle, we
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craft all timepieces with the same care and assemble each watch twice.
techniques, followed by the final assembly procedure. This assures
Thus, after the ZEITWERK STRIKING TIME has been assembled for the
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LVKHV (YHQ LI WKLV WDNHV D OLWWOH PRUH WLPH www.alange-soehne.com
You are cordially invited to discover the collection at:
A. LANGE & SÖHNE BOUTIQUE DUBAI The Dubai Mall · Tel. +971 4 325 39 23 · dubai@lange-soehne.ae
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Contents SPRING 2019
28 EDITORIAL 30 CONTENTS 34 CONTRIBUTORS
BUSINESS 36 HOT NEWS 74 INTERVIEW: NICOLAS BEAU Global Head of Watches and Fine Jewelry Business Development, Chanel
78 INTERVIEW: JULIEN HAENNY General Manager of the Fine Watch Club
ART
44
70 EDITOR’S PICKS 106 COLORS
66 LIFESTYLE
NEW RELEASES
96 SIHH BACKSTAGE 114 JET-SET 118 ZOOMS
66 COVER STORY CONCORD Saratoga
92 TEST BENCH
TAG Heuer, Trilobe, Montblanc, Bucherer, Panerai, Eberhard & Co., Richard Mille, Hublot, Czapek, Artya and Aston Martin
74 30
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
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The Dubai Mall, Mirdif City Centre, Burjuman Mall, Fujairah City Centre, Bawabat Al Sharq seddiqi.com
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Contents SPRING 2019
82 Focus Close-up view of 7 new releases
80 CHARIOL A sleek new generation of ‘Alexandre C’ watches
84 CHARIOL Colvmbvs™ Grande Date GMT
85 CHARIOL MARIE-OLGA Jewelry watch collection
86 BREITLING Skyborne triology
87 BVLGARI 48g of pure mechanics !
88 JAQUET DROZ High-altitude Haute Horlogerie
81
89 BREGUET Marine blue
88
86 32
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
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MARINE G
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Contributors Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor, Brice Lechevalier, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.
34
Cloé Mugny
Marie De Pimodan
Christophe Persoz
A member of the GMT Publishing team, this translator by training contributes to the Editor’s Picks column.
An expert watch journalist who presents new models as well as handling the Craftsmanship column.
This experienced watchmaker analyzes a model that he wears for an entire week before delivering his technical and aesthetic verdict.
Brice Lechevalier
Paul O’Neil
Michèle Brunner
David Chokron
Involved in all aspects of the magazine, the founder seeks to convey a sense of pleasure to readers through the various articles.
The editor-in-chief of WorldTempus. com shares his insights on our feature articles based on his website’s coverage of the subject.
An experienced member of the GMT Publishing editorial team, she reports on brand events and products.
An expert watch journalist, he provides content for our Tech Insights column as well as presenting the latest new models.
Marie Le Berre
Edouard Haegi
Serge Panczuk
Pierre Millasson
A specialized watch journalist, she offers themed selections of new models.
Edouard Haegi is our inhouse photographer/videomaker, who also handles the Watch Photo Awards.
This California-based collector is also a keen traveler who shares his extremely personal vision of what a watch is and what it “tells” us.
This watch industry professional analyzes the auction world in the Collectors’ Corner column.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
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Hot News FADI JAMIL
87Th Monte-Carlo Rally: Outstanding performances of Richard Mille drivers On Sunday morning, Richard Mille partner Sébastien Ogier
place in the powerstage overcame his doubts, which yielded to
claimed a 7th career victory in this legendary competition. More
the thrill of victory, followed by a warm embrace with Thierry
than a race, the course proved a veritable duel between Sébastien
Neuville. This finale is not without recalling the 1979 victory
and his rival, Thierry Neuville. In the final rankings, the new
of Bernard Darniche (Lancia Stratos Team Chardonnet), just six
driver for Citroën finished just 2.2 seconds ahead of Neuville’s
seconds ahead of Swedish driver Björn Waldegård (Ford Escort RS
Hyundai, an all-time first for this legendary race.
1800), a record at the time for the closest Monte-Carlo Rally ever.
The struggle between the two drivers became truly epic
weekend. Sébastien Loeb joining a new constructor, Hyundai, with
dropped to a mere 0.4 seconds. The Citroën had encountered
a well-earned 4th place, just 2, 28 minutes behind the winner.
technical difficulties on Stage 14 that caused Ogier to doubt the
The return to Citroën promises to be an exceptional one for
feasibility of victory. ‘It’s hard, the car is not running 100%,’ he
Sébastien Ogier and his co-driver Julien Ingrassia, who, together,
confided at the time.
just delivered the French team its 100th WRC victory. Yet
Despite the setback, Ogier’s determination, and his second
36
Another Richard Mille partner also attracted attention this
during Stage 16, when the distance separating the two
another good reason to celebrate this triumph!
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
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Hot News FADI JAMIL
Walter Lange Watchmaking Excellence Award The first prize goes to Finland YET AGAIN, the ninth edition of the competition hosted by A.
de Haas, head of product development at Lange, the jury
Lange & Söhne documents the creative potential of talented
members were journalists Gisbert L. Brunner and Peter Braun
young watchmakers. The formidable challenge: to build a watch
as well as Dr Peter Plassmeyer, the direc-tor of the Cabinet of
with an acoustic indication. The jury of experts was enthusiastic
Mathematical and Physical Instruments in Dresden.
about the eight submitted entries. It voted in favour of the
unanimous: With his “Ostinato” repetition watch that sounds
old student of the watchmaking school in Espoo, Finland. He is
quarter-hour intervals with different sequences of tones, Otto
de-lighted with the prize of 10,000 euro.
Peltola from The Finnish School of Watchmaking in Espoo was
The assignment for the Walter Lange Watchmaking Excellence
chosen as the winner in all four competition categories. His
Award was “Design and build an acoustic indication”. It
movement stood out with originality, functionality, artisanal
was announced in April 2018 within the scope of a project
quality and aesthet-ics. The perfectly executed acoustic time
week at the Lange manufactory. Eight talented watchmakers
indication was particularly impressive. Its reverberant and very
from Germany, Finland, France, Japan, the Netherlands and
melodic tone sequences are struck on six gongs. The innovative
Switzerland, each nominated by their schools, were given half a
construction of the strikework reflects the young watchmaker’s
year to com-plete the task.
background in a family of musicians. In the world of music,
In late November 2018, the four-person jury convened to analyse and assess the submitted en-tries. In addition to Anthony
38
In a vibrant atmosphere, the verdict of the jury was
“Ostinato” repetition watch crafted by Otto Peltola, a 22-year-
“Ostinato” is the designation for a continually repeated musical phrase or rhythm.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
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MANUFACTU URE CALIBRE ARF15 16½’’’’
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MIRRORED FORCE RESONANCE GUILLOCHÉ DIAL
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Hot News FADI JAMIL
25th Annual Screen Actors Guild Awards
JANUARY 27, 2019, actors Melissa McCarthy, Catherine Zeta Jones, Joseph Fiennes and Harry Shum Jr. shone at 25th Annual Screen Actors Guild Awards in Chopard Creations. Over the past 159 years Swiss jewelry and timepiece Maison, Chopard, has become a global reference for its unique designs, exceptional craftsmanship, spectacular stones, and commitment to sustainable luxury. Admired for its original and refined creations that enhance a woman’s natural beauty, Chopard is well accustomed to the photographers’ flashes on the red carpet. From the Cannes Film Festival, with which Chopard has been an Official Partner for 21 years, to the Césars, BAFTA’s, Golden Globes, Oscars and Emmys, an ever-increasing number of legendary stars and promising young talent trust Chopard to make them shine.
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Hot News FADI JAMIL
Changing Sides: A Success Story The innovative PanoInverse celebrates its 10-year anniversary IN 2008, GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL staged a brilliant premiere for a very
After all, the device enables exceptionally precise adjustment of
special element of its horological art. The PanoInverse XL unveiled
the watch’s rate and centring of the oscillation system.
its inner beauty, presenting the duplex swan-neck fine adjustment
element had inspired the engineers and designers to undertake
two Pano models in particular represent a remarkable success
a thorough re-design of the manual winding movement 66: they
story that began in 2008 with the PanoInverse XL.
laid out the movement in such a way as to make the “butterfly”,
UNUSUAL DESIGN AND TECHNICAL SOPHISTICATION
as the duplex swan-neck fine adjustment is also known, the
The beauty of a watch from Glashütte Original has many
centre of attention on the dial. To turn this idea into reality it
facets: the timeless and stylish design, the precious materials,
was necessary to rework the design at a number of places in the
and the complications that enrich everyday life with their visual
movement, and to develop new components and subassemblies.
and technical sophistication. But what is most obvious is by no
As a result, of these new developments, all three plates, as well as
means the only reason a mechanical watch is so fascinating.
the wheel train assemblies for the movement and power reserve,
Above all there is the exquisitely finished movement housed
had to be reworked and adapted to the new configuration.
within the timepiece. In 2008, the elaborately engraved balance bridge with its fine
42
The obvious beauty of this perfectly realised functional
as an exceptional element on the dial side of the watch. Today,
The elegance of the PanoMaticInverse is unmistakable: blued screws and ruby bearings on the rhodium-plated three-quarter plate
adjustment mechanism was presented for the first time on
with Glashütte stripes, blued-steel hands with luminous coating,
the dial side of a watch. This was made possible by the inverse
the elegant Panorama Date and, of course, the perfectly realised
arrangement of components that would normally be visible only
duplex swan-neck fine adjustment. The automatic manufactory
through the sapphire crystal case back. The off-centre design of
movement’s screw balance is easily admired as it oscillates
the Pano collection gives well-deserved pride of place to the duplex
beneath the artfully engraved balance bridge, its rhythmic, pulsing
swan-neck fine adjustment, the manufactory’s own innovation.
movement resembling a beating heart.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
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TOURBILLON CHRONOMETER NO.36
Swiss Craftsmanship
www.arnoldandson.com
ROYAL COLLECTION
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Hot News FADI JAMIL
Breguet Opens New Moscow Boutique With A Permanent Exhibition of Historic Timepieces ON THE 3RD OF OCTOBER 2018 the House of Breguet inaugurates a brand new boutique in Moscow, near the Kremlin, in the prestigious shopping mall, GUM. Under the high arches of the historical building, this new store has a dedicated space to exhibit Breguet heritage timepieces. The House of Breguet is continually enriching its portfolio of important Breguet timepieces with new acquisitions for its Breguet Museum in Paris, located on the upper floor of its flagship boutique, on Place Vendôme. It is the largest permanent exhibition of Breguet heritage pieces in the world. The Paris museum displays over 100 prestigious objects out of more than 200 heritage pieces in possession of the House of Breguet, with the rest exhibited in various locations such as Zurich, Shanghai and Moscow.
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Hot News FADI JAMIL
Camila Cabello & Nina Dobrev wear Harry Winston Diamonds to the 61st Annual Grammy Awards FEBRUARY 10, 2019, CAMILA CABELLO – Nominee for Pop Vocal Album & Pop Solo Performance wearing Morganite, Spinel and Diamond Cluster Drop Earrings, approx. 30.59 carats, set in 18k yellow gold and platinum. NINA DOBREV – Presenter, wears Winston Cluster Diamond Earrings, approx. 10.26 carats, set in platinum, Diamond Crescent Brooch, approx. 9.43 carats, set in platinum, Micropave Diamond Band Ring, approx. .58 carats, set in platinum, Carpet Diamond Ring, 8.13 carats, set in platinum, Princess Cut Diamond Band, approx. 1.39 carats set in platinum, Round Brilliant Diamond Band, approx. 3.26 carats, set in platinum, Round Brilliant Diamond Band, approx. 2.21 carats, set in platinum
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Hot News FADI JAMIL
Basel 2019: NAUTILO in vintage mode AFTER THE CREATION OF A NEW, more classical and urbane, line
style indexes, can be clearly seen through the convex sapphire
in 2018 with the EPURATO, now it is the turn of the NAUTILO,
crystal with its anti-reflection treatment. There is an echo of the
the famous diver’s watch to adopt softer curves. Still maintaining
traditional triangular reading where the appliques at 12, 4 and
its technical performances, the VINTAGE version is available in
8 o’clock have the double batons and all the markers are coated
a new diameter of 42mm, coming with a blue dial, a colour that
in Super-LumiNova. The unidirectional bezel equips the Vintage
has always dressed the ANONIMO dials.
model with a blue ceramic insert that protects the watch from
Nearly 15 years after the first appearance of the famous diver’s watch, conceived by the naval engineer Dino Zei, the NAUTILO has lost none of its charisma. Recognisable by its screwed crown
model in steel, worn with a brown calf leather strap. Water resistant to 200m, this « Vintage » comes with the
unusually situated at 4 o’clock, which is ideal for maximum
traditional Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, with the date
comfort, this vintage version NAUTILO shows the potential of the
located at 6 o’clock. With its 42mm case, the NAUTILO Vintage
collection, which, with the 2019 edition, can be both powerful
has shown that it has the ability to evolve, in all simplicity,
and sporting or elegant and classical.
so that the “instrument watch” of 2006 becomes a watch for
A remodeled dial, in sunshine blue and endowed with railway-
48
scratches and adds depth and brilliance to overall esthetics of this
pleasure today.
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REJUV ENAT E WITH THE FESTI VE REVIV ER AT
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Hot News FADI JAMIL
L G
Bomberg Lady Skylighter THE DIAL ON THIS GORGEOUS LADY SKYLIGHTER watch is blazing white with embedded Swarovski crystals, but the black orb bearing our logo in the center gives it solidity and grounding. Like the woman who sports this elegant timepiece, it blends several forms of beauty. The black and gold steel case, with gold clasps to hold the black satin NATO-style strap, is powerful and bold, while the gold accents of the dial’s three hands is graceful and light. Lady Skylighters do not bother with time numerals, as they would just spoil the pristine flair of the dial – a “timeless look” that evokes classic films and the finer, exciting stuff of life. For an especially sporting presentation, convert this timepiece into a pocket watch with a steel chain
J 50
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Le Richemond Geneva va
DISCOVER A LAKESIDE ESCAPE SCAPE A BREATH OF SWISS FRESH SH AIR AGAINST THE BACKDROP OP OF THE AL ALPS BREATHTAKING VIEWS ON THE JET D’EAU AND THE MONT BLANC FRENCH RENCH SEASONAL CUISINE AT LE JARDIN RESTAURANT LE SPA BY SISLEY & FIT FITNESS CELEBRATION BRATION OF M MEMORABLE EVENTS
Jardin Brunswick | 1201 Geneva | Switzerland lerichemond.com
#MYRichemond
3XEOLFLW 3XEO 3XEOLFLWHŮ LFLWHŮ HŮB+RWHO + +RWHOB RWHOB O B O /H O /H 5LFK /H 5LFKHPRQ 5LFKHPRQG LQGG HPRQG LQ G LQGG GG GMT_ME_n21_Final.indd 51
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Hot News FADI JAMIL
Girard-Perregaux unveils “Quasar” 2019: GIRARD-PERREGAUX, aesthete of the invisible, explores the Cosmos, the essence of time. The Swiss watch Manufacture is introducing a new universe, innovative materials and unexpected complications within its fundamental collections united under a single theme: “Earth to Sky”. Just one year ago, Girard-Perregaux introduced the NeoTourbillon with Three Bridges Skeleton. Today, at Miami Watches & Wonders, Girard-Perregaux is
Quasar embodies a natural application of the four principles governing the Girard-Perregaux universe. The first is the 1884 patent for three gold bridges visible on the dial side, the unique signature of the Maison. The second is the skeleton work hand-finished in the workshops of La Chaux-deFonds. The third is the 2015 birth of the Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges. The latter were neither straight nor made of gold,
unveiling Quasar, a timepiece revealing a new dimension of this
but instead arched, skeletonised and black. The fourth is the use
iconic movement.
of sapphire serving a function that is more technical than that
Based on the “Earth to Sky” theme, this complication
of mere watch glasses. With the Laureato with Three Sapphire
model is named after the most brilliant of astronomical
Bridges presented in 2007, crystal corundum had found its place
entities, the quasar. Thus illuminated, this tourbillon with
in the very structure of a Fine Watchmaking calibre. These four
its contemporary spirit enters the light spectrum with a case
vectors converge to create Quasar.
entirely made of transparent sapphire crystal. Through these crystalline walls, Calibre GP9400-1035 reveals
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play freely across its matt surfaces and taut curves.
The bridges visually contribute to Quasar’s overall transparency effect. They are made of titanium, sandblasted and
its openworked construction much like a star viewed with a
then blackened by a PVD treatment. Their shape is so complex
telescope. This Haute Horlogerie movement draws the eye like a
in all three dimensions, composed of interior angles, arches,
black hole and explodes with light, illuminating the gap between
returns and overhangs, that machining them represents a true
its components. Devoid of any opacity, Quasar allows photons to
watchmaking feat.
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Hot News FADI JAMIL
Omega Trésor IN THE PAST YEAR, OMEGA’S historic reputation for luxurious women’s watchmaking has been elevated even further -
Perhaps most distinctive is the new combination of colours.
particularly thanks to the arrival of the Trésor collection.
The lacquered white dial is surrounded by transferred Roman
Combining classic design with modern touches, the timepieces
numerals in red, while the matching strap truly stands out in
have proven to be a truly popular choice. This year, a new
red leather.
selection of styles will be unveiled, including one unique model in red and white. The new timepiece includes a polished 36 mm case crafted
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elegantly along each side.
On the crown, you’ll find another single diamond, this time surrounded by a red ceramic flower made from five OMEGA logos. Turning the watch over, the OMEGA Calibre 4061 sits
in stainless steel. Following the well-known Trésor style, the
just behind a polished mirror caseback that is embellished by a
case is also set with 38 single-cut diamonds, which curve
metalized “Her Time” pattern.
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Hot News FADI JAMIL
Rado Tradition Captain Cook MKII Automatic Limited Edition Rado’s new take on a 1960s classic has hidden depths (LENGNAU, SWITZERLAND – 2019) Since 1957, Rado has been producing watches designed to stand the test of time and, since the launch of the Golden Horse in 1958, to stand the test of the elements when water-resistant watches were far from the norm. Building on this base, 1962 saw the introduction of an early diver’s model that now makes a welcome comeback to the Rado collection in a reimagined version that is true to the look and feel of the original. The Captain Cook MKII was first launched with an impressive 22 bar (220m) water resistance rating and an inner turning bezel capable of measuring up to 80 minutes of elapsed dive time. The reimagined Captain Cook MKII, retains these impressive features, whilst incorporating a whole lot more. At first glance the Captain Cook MKII bears an uncanny resemblance to the 1962 original, with its red and white inner bezel and natural coloured Super-LumiNova® dots. On closer inspection however, the matt black dial and sleek rhodium coloured dial elements update the Captain Cook MKII for the twenty-first century.
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Hot News FADI JAMIL
The Ministry of Defence selects Bremont as official luxury watch partner to Her Majesty’s Armed Forces BREMONT is proud to enter into a partnership with the Ministry of Defence (MoD) honouring Her Majesty’s Armed Forces. Through this partnership, Bremont will become the sole luxury watch producer allowed to legitimately use the signs, symbols and Heraldic Badges of all three services. This will mark the first time that civilians can purchase official Bremont Military timepieces. Consequently, Bremont will be releasing a new military inspired range of watches incorporating the emblems of the Royal Navy, British Army and the Royal Air Force.
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Hot News FADI JAMIL
Mauron Musy celebrates its Ambassadors Night FEBRUARY 21ST, La Broye-based brand MAURON MUSY inducted
members from La Broye, it quickly spread beyond regional
some 110 Ambassadors at the Château de Saint-Aubin in the
borders to the Vaud Alps, Geneva and Basel. This local
Canton of Fribourg. These influential personalities from the
crowdfunding-type endeavour has enabled the brand to build a
political and economic world were each given a numbered watch.
community of true enthusiasts around the brand. It constitutes
Some 110 personalities from La Broye, the Lake Geneva
an original project that is part of a strong development phase
region and the Basel area gathered yesterday at the Château
for MAURON MUSY, which is preparing to open new sales
de Saint-Aubin (FR) for an extraordinary evening. Guests of
outlets in Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Kuwait.
the watchmaker MAURON MUSY, these fortunate individuals
The lucky owner of the MU03 ARMURE n°001, Philippe
were presented with the first numbered watches of the brand
Arrighi, director of an insurance agency and now a MAURON
new ARMURE MU03 model. Representing authentic Swiss
MUSY Ambassador, noted: “I am in love with this watch. I like
watchmaking epicureans and influencers, they were also inducted
its regional background.”
as Ambassadors of the brand. Christophe Musy, co-founder and
Steve Monnet, a chemist in a private laboratory, Ambassador
CEO of MAURON MUSY, told an enthusiastic audience: “We
and shareholder of MAURON MUSY, also pointed out: “What
remain the soul of the company, you are now its heart.”
I especially appreciate is the brand’s highly technical DNA, its
Launched eight months ago, this subscription program
industrial side exemplified by the clamp brace.”
has exceeded all expectations. Essentially local, with 80% of
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Hot News FADI JAMIL
Hublot launches the countdown to the ICC Cricket World Cup 2019 IN CENTRAL LONDON, HUBLOT, Official Timekeeper of the
between England and South Africa, with the final set to take
ICC Cricket World Cup 2019, today celebrated the 100-day
place on July 14. Clocks displaying the countdown to festivities
countdown to cricket’s greatest competition.
will now be visible in Hublot’s London boutique, situated at 14
Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of the Swiss luxury watchmaker, launched a three-metre-high clock at Lord’s - the iconic ‘Home
New Bond Street in London, and at select match venues in the lead up to the start of the event.
of Cricket’- as the countdown to the event. He was joined by David Richardson, CEO of the International Cricket Council and former South Africa cricketer, and Michael Vaughan OBE,
To celebrate this new collaboration, Hublot will shortly reveal
England’s most successful cricket captain of the modern era,
on its social media channels a preview of the official watch of
and new friend of Hublot.
the ICC Cricket World Cup 2019. A new special edition modeled
Hosted this year in England and Wales, the 12th edition of the Cricket World Cup gets underway on May 30 with a match
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A HUBLOT X ICC SPECIAL EDITION
around the ICC brand, the watch will be available in a limited series in Hublot boutiques from the start of the event.
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Paper-based or At home or in the
Select your annual subscription
Details and registration on the Magazine section of
www.gmtmag-me.com | info@gmtmag-me.com
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Hot News FADI JAMIL
IWC Schaffhausen and Bradley Cooper team up for charity project at the Oscars® SCHAFFHAUSEN, 21 FEBRUARY 2019 – IWC Schaffhausen and
Cinematography,” and “Best Sound Mixing.” The American
Bradley Cooper are proud to announce a unique charity project.
actor previously earned Oscar® nominations for his critically
When attending the upcoming Academy Awards® ceremony,
acclaimed performances in “Silver Linings Playbook,”
the actor and IWC brand ambassador will wear a Big Pilot’s
“American Hustle” and “American Sniper”.
Watch Single Piece with a one-of-a-kind engraving. This watch will then be auctioned by Sotheby’s and IWC will donate its full
IWC’S PROCEEDS DONATED TO THE ANTOINE DE SAINT-EXUPÉRY
proceeds to the Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Youth Foundation.
YOUTH FOUNDATION
With the funds, the foundation will support the association
IWC will donate its proceeds from the auction to the Antoine
Arrimage, a charitable organization that focuses on teaching
de Saint-Exupéry Youth Foundation, helping it to support the
visually impaired children how to read drawings using their
association Arrimage in Nice, France. The association was
sense of touch.
established by Dr. Claude Garrandes, a blind French artist and
Bradley Cooper became a brand ambassador for IWC in 2018.
teacher. One of its main projects focuses on teaching visually-
Among other projects, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer
impaired children how to read drawings in two-dimensional
has produced a worldwide advertising campaign with the
relief through the sense of touch. To do this, it uses the first-
renowned actor. Cooper co-wrote, directed, produced and
ever tactile art book of embossed illustrations of “The Little
stars in “A Star is Born”. The film has received eight Oscar®
Prince” that it created. Thanks to teaching tools created by
nominations: “Best Actor in a Leading Role,” “Best Picture,”
Arrimage, blind children are also given the opportunity to learn
“Best Adapted Screenplay,” “Best Actress in a Leading Role,”
how to draw themselves.
“Best Actor in a Supporting Role,” “Best Original Song,” “Best
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FOR THE JOURNEY YOU’RE ON
UNITED ARAB EMIRATES . SAUDI ARABIA . KUWAIT . JORDAN . LEBANON TUMI.COM
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Cover Story FADI JAMIL
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Concord relaunches a thoroughbred timepiece with a proven pedigree The CONCORD Saratoga reflects the spirit of its namesake, North America’s oldest horse racetrack, located in Saratoga Springs, New York. Over the past quarter of a century, this collection has gained an international reputation as one of the top luxury sports watch lines.
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n 2018, the Saratoga Collection’s heritage
predecessors which retains its trademark features. The
has inspired new models for today’s fast-
Saratoga Collection is renowned for its classic design,
paced lifestyle. The latest update represents a
high-quality workmanship and luxurious feel. The
harmonious blend of its classic and contemporary
new models certainly do not disappoint in this regard.
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An elegant statement for modern and active men with distinctive sense of style. CONCORD is introducing New Saratoga Chrono automatic models in its key collection. Known as one of the top sport luxury watch, the CONCORD Saratoga Gent has been redesigned with a more distinct character, a contemporary look and feel and an elaborated finishing. The 43 mm Saratoga Chrono are available in six different combinations – three in stainless-steel bracelets, two in black rubber straps and one in alligator brown straps. The fully integrated case and bracelet makes it fall perfectly on the wrist, while the horizontal and flat brushed finishing, with polished side edges is a true signature of a remarkable craftsmanship. On strap and rubber models, the first two polished woven links reinforce the sporty look of these timepieces.
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The CONCORD Saratoga Chronograph automatic models come with dashing dial colors – white, silver, blue or black. The stainless-steel crown and the Concord engraved crownprotector offer a modern interpretation of the CONCORD Saratoga, as the case-back embraces the collection’s signature emblem of two racing horses – a fitting tribute to the Saratoga’s unique pedigree. All versions are powered by a mechanical self-winding ETA movement and are water-resistant to 50 meters. The elegant dials feature a 60-second counter at 9 o’clock, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock. The date window remains at 4:30 o’clock. The New CONCORD Saratoga Chronographs offer an elegant statement for modern and active men with distinctive sense of style.
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Editor’s Picks BRICE LECHEVALIER
The color of time ARTYA
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BVLGARI
CLAUDE MEYLAN
ULYSSE NARDIN
Butterfly Delicacy 2
Gerald Genta
Skull
Freak X Titanium Blue
Offering a distillation of creativity with its handmade dial composed of natural gold leaf pigments and butterfly wings framed by a “chocogold” case, the Butterly Delicacy 2 also features a COSC-certified ArtyA self-winding movement.
50th Anniversary
Claude Meylan’s skeleton dials celebrate the Mexican “Calavera” culture with this Skull limited edition in five different colors.
No dial nor hands, but instead a flying karussel to indicate the time on the Freak X Titanium Blue, the range-entry model in the eXperte Freak collection.
Bvlgari has chosen platinum to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Gérald Genta brand (acquired in 2000) with its famous sturdy round Arena case and jumping hour display.
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Dans sa diversité toute puissante, l’horlogerie mobilise des ambassadeurs toujours plus créatifs pour convertir les poignets mal accompagnés aux vertus du bracelet bien équipé. La richesse du contenu technique dépasse souvent de loin l’habillage de ces montres de luxe aux prix variés, mais cette sélection se distingue par la ferveur de son approche chromatique.
In its all-powerful diversity, more and more creative watchmaking ambassadors are involved in converting wrists to the virtues of a well-equipped timepiece. The richness of the technical content often goes far beyond the exterior of these variously priced luxury models, but this selection is distinguished by the intensity of its chromatic approach.
HUBLOT Big Bang Collège du Léman
HYSEK IO Double Orbitale
MONTBLANC 1858 Geosphère
URWERK
Lukas Gojda/stock.adobe.com
UR-105 CT Maverick
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Editor’s Picks CLOÉ MUGNY
Sporting spirit Whether in the air, at sea or on land, sports are inseparable from the notion of time. Timepieces are therefore designed to meet the needs of athletes and withstand the constraints imposed by their environment. Whatever your activity, there will always be an ideal companion watch.
TAG HEUER
CYRUS
Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T
Klepcys Alarm
Tourbillon Nanograph
PANERAI Submersible Luna Rossa (PAM01039)
DE BETHUNE
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Photography Karine Bauzin
your123/stock.adobe.com
DB28GS Grand Bleu
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An international watch owners club offering its members year-round benefits In association with GMT Magazine, WorldTempus, Geneva Watch Tour and Watch Photo Awards
Op eni ng 2 0 19 register now on
Photography: Karine Bauzin
www.fine-watch-club.com
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Interview BRICE LECHEVALIER
Nicolas Beau
Global Head of Watches and Fine Jewelry Business Development, Chanel In welcoming us to Place Vendôme, Nicolas Beau unveiled the new J12 in the company of the Watchmaking Design Studio Director, Arnaud Chastaingt*, and commented on Chanel’s latest investments. *read his interview on worldtempus.com
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What’s different about the new J12 compared with the previous model ? The evolution of an icon is always delicate. The 2019 vintage represents the first radical change in the J12 since its creation in 2000. You may be interested to know that the bottle of Chanel N°5 fragrance has undergone about ten – often imperceptible – changes since its launch, in order to remain the ultimate perfume bottle. Arnaud Chastaingt has been the Director of our Watchmaking Design Studio since 2013. When he creates a watch, he imagines a story about the person who will wear it, and then designs it. An image and words. Arnaud has profound respect for J12 and its creator, Jacques Helleu. He chose not to touch the original design, instead opting to modify 70% of its components – very subtly, sometimes invisibly, from movement to dial and from case to bracelet. His approach is very complex and very sophisticated*, in order to ensure that the J12 remains contemporary. Arnaud adopts an atypical creative approach, where style and design are more important than time measurement. Why present your Director of the Watchmaking Design Studio at
“We share a common vision of luxury with the Wilsdorf Foundation.”
this particular juncture ? The timing was right, with the new J12, and the announcement of various strategic projects. When Jacques Helleu left us in 2007, we had many major projects in the pipeline. Helleu made no compromises and never second-guessed himself in relation to market demand. When we met Arnaud, we were won over by his enthusiasm and vision. He first drew an aesthetic and then asked the watchmakers to adapt to it. This was particularly striking for the Monsieur watch, as well as with the the Calibre 2 Camélia Squelette whose entirely skeletonized and stylized mechanism forms a 3D camellia flower. With the J12, his request was to create a circle within the rotor so as to reveal the movement. Horological constraints are purely intellectual and must not be a curb on creativity : if something is not feasible, one simply doesn’t do it. Since 2013, Chanel has been honored five times at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève ; it is very gratifying to know that this very prestigious jury with expert knowledge in the field of Haute Horlogerie takes a benevolent view of Chanel. You also flaunt the fact that you make your own ceramic for the J12 ? This is a highly distinctive field of expertise in its own right. While many brands choose to outsource in this respect, we also produce our ceramics at Châtelain in La Chaux-de-Fonds and make substantial investments in this technology. We even produce the powders used to make ceramics, all of which is really fascinating. We have developed injection technologies to obtain shapes that are closer to reality, overcoming enormous difficulties because the quality of the injection technology, the powder and firing must be extraordinary so as to meet less than one-millimeter tolerances. There are more basic techniques, but they afford less possibilities.
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You have also made new manufacturing investments… After becoming involved in watchmaking, Chanel internalized the Châtelain manufacturing company, and subsequently the full range of watch exterior and gemsetting skills, thereafter proving itself capable of developing Haute Horlogerie movements in very small series. However, something was still missing : within our vision of tomorrow’s watchmaking, the watch has progressed from being a pure instrument to an instrument that is also a beautiful object. Extremely beautiful creations call for excellent ‘motors’ (in this case, watch movements). We had for many years been devoting much thought to the development of our calibers, and in 2011, Chanel decided to set up an Haute Horlogerie department within G&F Châtelain. Nonetheless, the adventure of industrial partnership is not to be taken lightly. Since Chanel is an independent Maison, it could only be allied with another large independent house, protected from acquisitions. We had the opportunity to discuss this issue with the directors of the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation (editor’s note : owner of the Rolex group), also concerned about perpetuating the production of movements for Tudor. In 2013, it created the Kenissi Company, whose missions consists in developing selfwinding calibers for Tudor, as well as for Chanel and Breitling to date. We acquired a stake in this minority company, but one that is sufficient to influence the creations and work over the very long term. We share values of independence, autonomy and a common vision of luxury that allow us to look serenely to the future. The new production plant will open in 2021 in Le Locle.
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LE CIRQUE: The greatest culinary show on earth. A timeless classic originating from New York, experience Le Cirque's famed French cuisine, with a twist of Italian air, at the sleek and elevated setting of Dubai.
The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC For restaurant reservations, email difcrestaurants@ritzcarlton.com or call +971 4 372 2323
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Interview BRICE LECHEVALIER
Julien Haenny General Manager of the Fine Watch Club
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For whom is the Fine Watch Club intended ? As its name implies, for all those attracted to Fine Watchmaking, starting with lovers of luxury watches and watchmaking enthusiasts all over the world. The Fine Watch Club’s mission is to bring them closer to brands and give them an inside glimpse of the watch industry. This will particularly appeal to men and women keen to get a backstage view and benefit from regular exclusive offers ; I invite them to become members without further delay.
“Platinum members are the club’s super VIPs.”
What are the benefits for members ? While the Fine Watch Club has its own gallery in Geneva and organizes monthly meetings with watch brands, it also offers a very comprehensive private sales program. Luxury watchmaking remains a closed universe for which we provide them with an “open sesame”. Members have access to a very rich and varied program, from which they can draw as they wish. Sometimes they will need to react quickly, because offers will be limited in time and quantity. Each week, they will have access to a type of offer, such as exclusive limited-edition watches created with a luxury watch brand for members of the Fine Watch Club. We are currently working with several major brands celebrating the 50th anniversary of a legendary caliber or iconic collection. Only members of the Fine Watch Club will be able to acquire one of the rare examples of models issued in conjunction with these flagship brands. In addition, we prepare event-type offers such as factory and trade show visits in VIP mode or previews, as well as special sales and offers on accessories designed exclusively for them. How does one join ? Simply by registering on the www.fine-watch-club.com website. We offer three types of membership: Three-Hands, Manufacturer and Platinum, which provide access to various benefits depending on the status chosen. Passionate watch enthusiasts will undoubtedly opt for Platinum status, which offers a “fasttrack” to receive offers before others, and above all the possibility of influencing the creation process of future limited series.
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What’s in it for luxury watch brands ? The Fine Watch Club offers brands a real bridge between lovers of fine watches and their favorite brands, clearly identified during registration. I know of few brands that would not be interested in thousands of qualified potential customers from all over the world who are looking for a closer relationship. The Fine Watch Club already has more than 3,000 members and this number should triple by the time it is operational on a weekly basis. Above and beyond this segmentation, along with our professionalism and a certain discretion towards the distribution network, our
“We create extremely varied weekly offers for our members.”
team creates specific content for each offer so as to increase the desirability of the brand and its emotional bond with our members. Brands thus benefit from our expertise and our role as an influencer, as well as the assurance of working with a trustworthy partner. You were previously yourself the CEO of a watch brand ; how does your international watch industry experience prove valuable in your current role ? In a rapidly changing watchmaking sector, where consumer habits and distribution are undergoing substantial shifts, it is essential in a project like the Fine Watch Club to have a good vision and understanding of what a watch brand is today, with all its challenges and issues. Knowledge of the product, markets, end-customer requirements and manufacturing processes is as important as communication in order to meet the expectations of our members and partner brands. What are the next steps ? Currently in the launch phase with a first test event at Baselworld, the Fine Watch Club is opening its gallery and organizing its first activities in the spring, and plans to have completed the roll-out of its operations by fall 2019. The first factory visits and events with partner brands are scheduled for May, June and July. We have made a good start on the process of creating limited series with our designer and the product management teams of the most dynamic watch brands, which will occupy our production schedule until early 2020. They correspond to several aesthetic trends and are positioned at different price levels. Luxury is by nature rare, so it is preferable to opt for the Manufacture or Platinum status to be one of the lucky buyers !
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Focus
CHARIOL
FADI JAMIL
A sleek new generation of ‘Alexandre C’ watches The ‘Alexandre C’ watches for men and women are a stylish way to express togetherness. Created 30 years ago by Philippe Charriol in honour of his son Alexandre, this bestselling timepiece continues to evolve, yet is still characterised by CHARRIOL’s renowned Swiss watchmaking expertise and attention to detail. This season, the luxury brand has built on the ‘couples watch’ concept with new variants in four different sizes (28mm, 33mm, 40mm and 42mm), all featuring a stunning new case design. These latest additions venture away from the brand’s classic twisted cable strap, and instead reveal a new steel case with lugs, creating a sleeker look with seamless, 360-degree shine. The bracelet has also been reworked for a more classic, streamlined look. Petite and feminine, the 28mm and 33mm versions combine a steel bracelet with a white, pink or black mother of pearl dial, while the 40mm variants showcase a steel bracelet and a sun-brushed anthracite or silver dial. The bolder and more masculine 42mm edition, meanwhile, is an automatic chronograph watch that makes an impressive impact with its black bezel and steel strap. Combining technical precision with innovation and elegance, the ‘Alexandre C’ timepieces are ideal for everyday wear and a superb choice for gifting.
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ALEXANDRE C MOVEMENT: Swiss Quartz movement
ETA, hour, minute, second, date; Swiss Chronograph Automatic movement Valjoux 7750, hour, minute, second, date, day, chronograph CASE: Stainless steel 316L, 28mm, 34mm, 40mm and 42mm diameter BEZEL: Stainless steel, engraved with CHARRIOL letterings, polished for Lady sizes and circular brushed for 40mm, mono directional turning black ceramic on 42mm model DIAL: White or Black Mother-of-pearl with 10 diamond index (28 and 34mm), grey circular brushed with silver index (40mm), black mat sun brushed with silver index (42mm) BRACELET: Brushed and polished stainless steel links bracelet with double folded deployment buckle
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A precious vision of the future:
Colvmbvs™ Grande Date GMT released in Steel and Blue Tones Charriol’s respect for the 15th century Italian explorer, Christopher Columbus was first captured in a watch collection in 1983. Philippe Charriol, inspired by the adventurer spirit of the famed seafarer, created a line of watches in homage to this enterprising spirit. In 2013, the year of Charriol’s 30th anniversary celebrations, the Maison released a trio of fine handmade horology timepieces, including the limited series 300-piece COLVMBVS™ Grande Date GMT, as part of the ever-evolving COLVMBVS™ line. The Grande Date GMT includes a Grande Date Technotime 651 movement with GMT module, as well as a decorated oscillating weight. Charriol is now delighted to present at Baselworld 2017 a new variant of this timepiece
s
with a striking blue dial set in a steel case. Special finishings on the dial include a guilloché sunray motif, sun-brushed central dial and circular brushed seconds counter. The Grande Date display is indicated via a striking system of double-discs. As with others in the collection, the 46mm diameter case is embellished with interlocking teeth that are reminiscent of a compass rose: a nod to the collection’s nautical origins. Additional nautical details are elegantly integrated into the watch. The crown echoes the shape of a clevis, a type of pin commonly found on ship’s rigging. The sapphire case back, shows the inner workings of this automatic timepiece, and the glass is etched with a profile of Christopher Columbus. Perfect for sailing fans and those with an explorer spirit, the delicate blue and steel tones of this sophisticated timepiece create the ideal watch for modern dreamers and adventurers.
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COLVMBVS Grande Date GMT MOVEMENT: Mechanical automatic
Technotime 651 Calibre with GMT module and personalized oscillating weight FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT CASE: Polished and satin-finish 316L steel, diameter 46mm, sapphire crystal, transparent back, waterproof 50m DIAL: Blue-toned guilloche, Arabic numerals BRACELET: Blue leather calf croco pattern, steel folding clasp
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Lady MARIE-OLGA Watch CASE: stainless steel, 32 mm x 24 mm, PVD treatment in yellow or pink gold SETTING: 89 white diamonds on the case (0.85 carat) 59 diamonds on the clasp (0.37 carat) DIAL: white mother-of-pearl, 2 Arabic numerals, 10 diamond indexes MOVEMENT: Swiss ETA quartz movement, hours, minutes BRACELET: stainless steel, 16 cables 1 mm in diameter CLASP: stainless steel with PVD treatment in yellow or pink gold
Charriol’s New
MARIE-OLGA Jewelry watch collection The secret links between equestrian and watchmaking arts are stamped with the same strong and timeless values: rigor, purity,
the passage of time. A unique stirrup extends the case with its asymmetrical lugs
transmission, passion. They both share the same song of gestures
which underlines the equestrian metaphor and magnifies the
with the hand as a major actor, the eye as a conductor and the
purity and personality of MARIE-OLGA’s case.
heart as a motor. They take time without counting it to achieve
The bezel and lugs of some versions are set with white
excellence, erase complexity to keep only the essential, the beauty,
diamonds, reflecting the watercolor shades of the mother-of-
the pure gesture, the perfect moment.
pearl dial, punctuated by precious markers.
Quintessence of all these attentions, the MARIE-OLGA watch
An exclusive fastening system is hidden between the top of
is a jewellery watchmaking creation that pays tribute to one of
the bracelet and the case to offer each gesture a fluidity and a
the passions of its eponymous muse, Marie-Olga Charriol, wife
graceful mystery.
of the founder of the House and distinguished rider. Bright and refined piece of watch art, this new ambassador
Symbolic link of all Charriol collections, the steel cable is here lightweight and ultra-feminine to extend the equestrian
of the Maison Charriol combines femininity, sophistication
spirit and the evocation of the weaving of a competition horse
and personality. The time that gives patina and embellishes
mane on the bracelet. Its 16 twisted steel strands of 1 mm in
beautiful objects has shaped its lines, without sparing its hours,
diameter, exquisitely thin and of unfailing strength, offer this
to give them curves of ideal proportions.
watchmaker’s jewel its Charriol signature.
The silhouette of this watch reflects the gestures of the rider
In the purity of pink or yellow gold, it becomes a refined
on her horse, combining voltes and figures. The case conjugates
daytime jewel. Covered in diamonds, it is of a daring
roundness and asymmetry. Its oval shape is visually soft and
sophistication. But whatever the version, the MARIE-OLGA
feminine and of a masterful technicity.
watch offers the most demanding women the spirit of a
The volutes of the magisterial Arabic numerals on its dial like purebreds raiser in a mother-of-pearl enclosure add their slender
watchmaker and a jeweler whose beauty is both timeless and boldly modern.
commas to the beautiful straightness of two hands punctuating
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Focus BREITLING BRICE LECHEVALIER
Navitimer 1 B01 Chronographe 43 Swissair Edition CASE : stainless steel, convex crystal, sapphire ire caseback, bidirectional bezel, water-resistant ant to 30m DIAMETER : 43mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Breitling Caliber 01, 70h power reserve), 346 components, bidirectional ballbearinggmounted rotor, COSC certified FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, date DIAL : three colors, hands ds and hour-markers enhanced with SuperLumiNova® STRAP/BRACELET : black leather strap with pin buckle or metal mesh bracelet let with folding clasp
Navitimer 1 B01
Navitimer 1 B01
Chronographe
Chronographe
43 Pan Am Edition
43 TWA Edition
Skyborne triology With this Navitimer 1 Airline Editions capsule collection, there is no question of time suspending its flight, since it is only available for a limited time from April 2019. Breitling is giving a nod to the achievements of three airlines that effectively launched the boom in civil aviation in the second half of the 20th century, tastefully commemorating their decisive contribution to the art of travel. Three aesthetically pleasing COSC-certified self-winding steel chronographs with Manufacture-made movements pay vibrant tribute to Pan Am, Swissair and TWA. Pilots and other flight instrument enthusiasts will appreciate the circular slide-rule indications integrated into the bi-directional rotating bezel, which are useful for airborne navigation calculations. As Breitling’s legitimacy in world aviation continues to cruise at an unequalled altitude, this clever trilogy brings it close to seventh heaven…
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Focus BVLGARI MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Carbon CASE : carbon CTP DIAMETER : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical
self-winding, Caliber BL 288, 52h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes CASEBACK : sapphire STRAP : Carbon CTP 50-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
48g of pure
mechanics ! Bvlgari has added another new standard to the drastic slimming regime imposed on its Octo Finissimo : weight ! Holder of the world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon record, the Octo Finissimo once again topped the podium by becoming the thinnest carbon watch in the world. Its vital statistics ? 42mm in diameter, 3.95mm thick and weighing in at a feather-light 48 grams ! A robust yet light feel is guaranteed for this watch with its futuristic design, symbolizing the technical and aesthetic virtuosity of the Italian brand. At the heart of the case, Bvlgari revisits in a blackened version the BL 288 mechanism that earned the Octo Finissimo the record for slimness in the automatic tourbillon category. Its distinctive features are a skeleton movement, a ying tourbillon equipped with a ballbearing system, a peripheral oscillating weight and a 52-hour power reserve, all accommodated within a thickness of just 1.95mm. A distillation of performance that, entirely clothed in carbon CTP, from case to strap, once again ups the ante in terms of watchmaking prowess.
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Focus JAQUET DROZ MICHÈLE BRUNNER
Grande Seconde Moon Swiss Serpentinite CASE : stainless steel, water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 43mm, 13.23mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Jaquet Droz 2660QL3, 28,800 vph, 68h power reserve, silicon balance-spring and lever horns, double barrel FUNCTIONS : off-centered hours and minutes, off-centered large seconds, astronomical moon phase, date DIAL : serpentinite, flanges in 18K white gold, rhodium-plated hands STRAP : rolled-edge hand-made black alligator leather, stainless steel folding clasp 88-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
High-altitude Haute Horlogerie Ever heard of serpentinite ? This rock of marine origin, widely found in the Alps, is a major player in the geological history that shaped these magnificent landscapes at a time when man did not yet exist. The serpentinite that covers the entire dial of the Grande Seconde Moon Swiss Serpentinite comes from the slopes of the Matterhorn, Switzerland’s emblem par excellence. Particularly brittle and easily scratched, it attests to the expertise in crafting minerals cultivated by the Jaquet Droz artisans. This rock, a witness to the immemorial ages of the Earth, makes a perfect match with the moon, an eternal and fascinating heavenly body that imparts a unique rhythm to our understanding of time and adds a touch of mystery and poetry to timepieces. Placed in the oversized date of the large seconds subdial, the serpentine moon disk blends seamlessly into the dial of this model, revealing a realistic 22K white gold moon and 18K white gold stars. This particularly discreet moon cleverly hides its astronomical face, which is controlled by the “135 mechanism”. Built around a 135tooth moon disk – compared with 59 for a standard moon phase – it guarantees a degree of accuracy such that the error is only one day every 122 years and 46 days. In honor of its native land, Jaquet Droz is issuing this 88-piece special edition exclusively for the Swiss market.
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Focus BREGUET MICHÈLE BRUNNER
Breguet Marine 5517 Bucherer Blue Editions CASE : titanium, sapphire back, water-
resistant to 100m SIZE : 40mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Caliber
777A, 28,800 vph, 55h power reserve, inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon pallets and a Breguet balance-spring in silicon FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : wave motif hand-engraved on a rose engine, silvered chapter ring with Roman numerals, open-tipped white gold Breguet hours and minutes hands enhanced with a luminescent substance STRAP : rubber
Marine
blue
The Bucherer Blue Editions collection, comprising more than 30 watches from nearly 20 different watchmaking companies, is for the first time welcoming a Breguet timepiece. And which model could be better suited than a Marine to this collection dedicated to the color blue and attached to technical innovation as well as superlative horological quality ? An exclusive reinterpretation of the 2017 Marine 5517, the Marine 5517 Bucherer Blue Editions is mainly distinguished by the silvered chapter ring that contains and highlights the hand guilloché wave motif of a necessarily blue dial. True to its vocation, and in homage to the title of Watchmaker to the French Navy that Louis XVIII awarded to Abraham-Louis Breguet, this sports watch with its unequalled elegance features a host of more or less discreet maritime references. The 40mm case with its fluted case is made of titanium which is resistant to salty air and corrosion ; the crown features a wave design and the seconds hand is tipped with the letter “B” in a reinterpreted version of the maritime signal flag. Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the five-spoke semi-circular oscillating weight resembles a rudder wheel, a pattern also picked up on the strap buckle, while the mainplate evokes the wooden slats of a ship’s deck.
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Test Bench CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Chronograph
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T
he excitement of the SIHH is still simmering, and we are already delighted to have had the opportunity to test one of the most talked-about new models introduced at this
grand Geneva happening. The SIHH had not even officially opened its doors before a media storm arose around the new collection from the Le Brassus-based brand. Such an event for the Maison, which had thus far essentially depended on its iconic Royal Oak, was bound to stir a range of emotions and many have indeed been expressed. Critics and fans have let rip on social networks to defend their points of view. Let’s now allow the dust to settle and try to offer the most objective and pragmatic possible viewpoint so that each of you can form your own opinion of this collection and the object of this particular test bench, the Code 11.59 Chronograph.
EXTERIOR : It was definitely the exterior of this collection and its design that sparked the most reactions. At first sight the watch is round, but a closer look at its edge reveals that its design is more complex than it seems. The pro-eminent caseback and bezel are circular and their sides are satin-finished like that of the caseband. The latter features the characteristic octagonal shape of the Royal Oak collection. Does this reflect a lack of inspiration or, on the contrary, an intelligent choice seeking to establish a style signature ? Everyone will have their own answer and the future will reveal whether or not this is a judicious choice. Two broad polished chamfers between the case middle and, respectively, the bezel and the back, ensure well-groomed elegance. The cut-out lugs are in line with the logic of the style and harmoniously extend the case, rather than being revolutionary. Concerning the latter, featauring an ideal 41mm diameter, it is worth noting a detail that is almost imperceptible but which nevertheless establishes the identity of this collection. The round glass is double-curved along two different radii. The radius of curvature of the horizontal axis (9 – 3 o’clock) is indeed much smaller than that of the vertical axis (12 – 6 o’clock). The hands and hour-markers stand out in a delicately refined manner against the splendid blue lacquered dial of our model. So while this design is not a revolution in itself, it perfectly matches the identity of the brand from the Vallée de Joux and corresponds both qualitatively and stylistically to what can be expected from such a collection.
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MOVEMENT : The new Caliber 4401 is a selfwinding flyback chronograph movement powering an instantaneous date display in addition to the traditional indications. The controls are driven by a column wheel and the mechanism is regulated by a balance oscillating at a frequency of 28,800vph. The finishes are in line with Audemars Piguet’s latest calibers and with Fine Watchmaking quality standards. The power reserve meets current norms with 70 optimal hours of operational autonomy.
TESTS : This chronograph is perfectly on-trend. If the collection manages to find its place alongside the great Royal Oak family, then the technical relevance, style and judicious sizing of this model mean is destined for a bright and enduring future and could well become one of the brand’s new spearheads. Our measurements revealed chronometric results matching Haute Horlogerie standards and technical choices such as the column wheel and a conventional chronograph drive should guarantee reassuring reliability. While the results measured are certainly a little too negative in our opinion, this is a model that had “undergone” the stresses and strains of the SIHH and the closely grouped results are therefore totally reassuring.
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The ergonomics of the case offer optimal comfort and the power reserve was systematically measured beyond the 70 hours announced in the technical data sheet. Legibility is admittedly not optimal. All the hands are thin and the chronograph function hands are not differentiated from those displaying the time. Some may regret that, but it clearly stems from a deliberate choice to favor overall aesthetics over readability. Finally, one notes an almost endless free travel of the chronograph pushers before one feels them coming into contact with their respective levers. Although this could be seen as a minor detail, it is not really worthy of Fine Watchmaking and could generate inaccuracies of a few hundredths of a second when the chronograph is started and stopped. A detail that could easily be improved and corrected for series production. Finally, the flyback function is extremely appreciable, albeit more for its security aspect than for purely functional reasons – for while no aircraft pilot actually uses this function nowadays, it offers the advantage of avoiding breakage by accidental (and unintentional) resetting while the chronograph is in operation.
POSITIONS
MEASUREMENTS 0H :
Rate (sec/day)
-2.3
-2.2
-3.2
-2.8
-3.0
-2.8
0Hrs : Fully wound
Amplitude
295
293
237
274
275
235
24H
Rate (sec/day)
-4.5
-3.2
-4.7
-2.8
1.2
-2.7
24Hrs later
Amplitude
240
242
215
222
229
219
CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ Horloger | Watchmaker
Time will tell whether or not the style of this collection has hit the mark with collectors. In any case, it already has the undeniable ability to spark strong reactions, a quality shared by all the icons that have marked watchmaking history. Whereas the Code 11.59 collection certainly does not revolutionize watchmaking techniques or design, it bears no relationship to the disaster repeatedly forecast by geeks who are more concerned with the number of their followers than the relevance of their (non-)analysis. In our opinion, this line has what it takes to establish itself as a strong collection. Naturally, the final word belongs neither to yours truly, nor to journalists and bloggers, whatever their degree of credibility. We will all have to await the ultimate verdict, namely how it will be received by customers and collectors, which is in the end the only worthwhile gauge of success or failure.
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SIHH Backstage EDOUARGD HAEGI
T
he Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie announced before the 2019 edition that it would be held for the last time in January. From 2020, SIHH and Baselworld have agreed to concentrate their dates by
organizing them one after the other from April 26 to May 5. Exhibiting in the SIHH or at various fringe events, the managers of seven brands summarize their show in one sentence.
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ULYSSE NARDIN (EXHIBITOR AT THE SIHH)
“WITH FREAK X AND SKELETON X, ULYSSE NARDIN INTRODUCES THE X-FACTOR IN WATCHMAKING.” PATRICK PRUNIAUX / CEO
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AUDEMARS PIGUET
WITHDRAWING FROM THE SIHH)
“WE ARE HAPPY TO HAVE INTRODUCED OUR BRAND NEW COLLECTION DURING AP’S LAST PARTICIPATION AT SIHH THIS YEAR AND WE ARE LOOKING FORWARD TO THE REST OF 2019 !” FRANCOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS / CEO
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RICHARD MILLE (WITHDRAWING FROM THE SIHH)
“HOW CAN WE START THE YEAR BETTER THAN WITH A GOOD SHOT OF TECHNICALITY, COLORS, AND SWEETNESS ? WE ROCKED THE SIHH ONCE AGAIN WITH HAPPINESS AND OUR SAVOIR FAIRE” AMANDA MILLE-BEY / MARKETING – HEAD OF CLIENTELE
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JAEGERLECOULTRE (EXHIBITOR AT THE SIHH)
“JAEGER-LECOULTRE IS PROUD TO HAVE LAUNCHED THE FIFTH GENERATION OF GYROTOURBILLON, REFLECTING THE ART OF PRECISION OF OUR MANUFACTURE SINCE 1833.” CATHERINE RÉNIER / CEO
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BAUME & MERCIER (EXHIBITOR AT THE SIHH)
“THE SIHH HIGHLIGHTED FOR THE SECOND YEAR CLIFTON BAUMATIC, WHICH IS BECOMING THE SIGNATURE OF OUR MAISON. IT EXPRESSES OUR COMMITMENT TO MEETING OUR CUSTOMERS’ HIGHEST EXPECTATIONS, WITH ZERO COMPROMISE ON QUALITY.” GEOFFROY LEFEBVRE / CEO
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H. MOSER & CIE
EXHIBITOR AT THE SIHH, AND FRINGE EXHIBITOR DURING BASELWORLD)
“SIHH IS MY ENERGY BOOST AT THE BEGINNING OF THE YEAR WHERE THE PULSE OF THE INDUSTRY IS TAKEN, THE TRENDS ARE GENERATED AND DREAMS ARE CREATED.” EDOUARD MEYLAN / CEO
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HUBLOT (EXHIBITOR AT BASELWORLD AND FRINGE EXHIBITOR AT THE SIHH)
“THE HUBLOT GENEVA DAYS WERE INTENSE, EXCITING AND SUCCESSFUL THANKS TO THE PRESENTATION OF VERY INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS !” RICARDO GUADALUPE / CEO
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Centre (DIFC) and a step away from the Financial Centre metro station. The hotel is close to the world’s 2nd largest shopping mall ‘The Dubai Mall’ and a 15-minute drive from Dubai International Airport. The flagship property of the alcohol-free brand, Rayhaan Hotels & Resorts, offers 462 luxurious rooms and suites with panoramic views of Dubai and overlooking Burj Khalifa. The hotel features 3 food & beverage outlets, 7 fully equipped meeting rooms, Bodylines Fitness & Wellness Club with an outdoor temperature controlled swimming pool and treatment rooms.
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For additional information or reservations visit rotana.com or call +971(0)4 323 0111
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Zoom CLOÉ MUGNY
TAG HEUER Alec Monopoly and the magical world of Monopi Alec Monopoly, TAG Heuer’s Art Provocateur since 2016, has participated in the creation of two new special editions : a Formula 1 and a Carrera Heuer 01. Just as on the first model created in 2017, the dial features the small banker Monopi with his red bandana on his face, but on a light background decorated with the street artist’s signature in colorful letters. The story behind the Carrera version is told in a short video, blending reality with fiction.
TRILOBE An exceptional vision of time On December 17th 2018, Trilobe took its first official steps into the world of watchmaking in the heart of a former church, which has now become the cradle of the history of technology and great innovations. The brand chose this ideal setting to present its innovative vision of time and unveil its first watch, Les Matinaux, by reassembling the 246 components live, a process duly admired by its ambassador, étoile ballet dancer Hugo Marchand, as well as fashion model and friend of the brand Willy Cartier.
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MONTBLANC Green to renew ties with nature In 2019, Montblanc welcomed visitors to the SIHH into a green universe inspired by its 1858 collection and by Minerva, both embodying the spirit of mountain exploration. This natural setting serves not only as a backdrop for the new models featuring khaki green dials, but also for the brand’s commitment to nature, notably through the Centre de Recherches sur les Écosystèmes d’Altitude.
BUCHERER New watchmaking temple Built between 1832 and 1835 by architect Adolphe Reverdin, Bucherer’s historic building, located at 45 Rue du Rhône, was completely renovated and officially reopened on December 6th 2018, in a ceremony attended by current owner Jorg Bucherer. The Geneva boutique now has 700 m2 dedicated to watchmaking and jewelry, as well as an after-sales service and a watchmaking workshop. More than 20 prestigious watch brands are represented in a modern and elegant setting.
PANERAI Standout experiences At the SIHH 2019, Panerai presented a new concept : watches in limited series accompanied by an extraordinary experience. The lucky owners will have a chance to dive off Moorea in the Pacific Ocean alongside world champion freediver Guillaume Néry ; to take an intensive course in the middle of the ice of the Arctic Ocean with explorer Mike Horn ; or to do two days’ training with Italian Navy special forces.
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Zoom BRICE LECHEVALIER
EBERHARD & CO. treats itself to a historical building and an in-house caliber The brand accustomed to car rallies and vintage sporting elegance is shifting into high gear. Back in the building where it was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds and which it has completely renovated, it is presenting this spring the new in-house-developed caliber, produced in the city classiďŹ ed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and equipping a new vintage-style collection.
RICHARD MILLE in white gold with Alexis Pinturault RM ambassador since 2014, Alpine combined 2018 Olympic vice-champion and already the winner of 21 world cup titles, Courchevel-based skier Alexis Pinturault picked up the Alpine combined gold medal at the world championships in Sweden at the beginning of February 2019, with an RM 035 Ultimate Edition on his wrist.
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New architectural concept for HUBLOT in Zurich To think that Hublot opened its first boutique in Paris in 2007, and that the 100th anniversary mark will be reached this year ! The Zurich establishment has been brightening up Bahnhofstrasse since 2014 and has just been given a facelift. At once more luminous, warm and modern,
CZAPEK plays host in Geneva
it conveys Hublot’s Art of Fusion philosophy.
The venerable historical brand with a hyperactive, youthful attitude is moving into new premises (Rue de la Corraterie 18) equipped with a real friendly reception area, in order to welcome its customers and make them feel at home. A commemorative Midnight in Geneva limited series with an aventurine dial is joining the Quai des Bergues collection to mark this new stage in the development of the Maison.
ARTYA opens a new boutique in Geneva The old town of Geneva gets a youthful boost, with this winter’s opening of a boutique reflecting the same bold style as the one on the Rue Neuvedu-Molard. In addition to the limited series and one-of-a-kind watch models in all shapes and materials, visitors will be able to discover a jewelry line also featuring an innovative design.
Dominique & Yvan Arpa
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TAG HEUER Aston Martin DBS Superleggera TAG Heuer Edition 26 February 2019, Gaydon: In celebration of its partnership with Swiss
and precision craftsmanship. The car delivers an unforgettable driving
luxury watch company TAG Heuer, Aston Martin has launched the striking
experience and class-leading in-gear acceleration and the innovative
Aston Martin DBS Superleggera TAG Heuer Edition. Just 50 of these
aerodynamics meld beautifully with its compelling curves. Nicknamed “the
stunning sports cars, finished in Monaco Black paint with red accents, will
brute in a suit”, the Aston Martin DBS Superleggera is immaculately styled,
be available globally and built to a luxurious fixed specification.
obsessively engineered and outrageously potent.
Each of the 50 cars will be accompanied with a limited edition TAG Heuer
Aston Martin Vice President & Chief Creative Officer, Marek Reichman
watch, the DBS Edition Carrera Heuer 02. Powered by a Calibre HEUER 02
said: “As soon as we knew about the partnership with TAG Heuer the idea
Automatic manufacture movement, to stay true to TAG Heuer commitment
of a special edition that reflected the design cues of both brands began to
to its Swiss avant-garde savoir-faire, this exclusive timepiece presents a
form in the minds of the design team here at Aston Martin. Both brands
hexagonal cut-out face matching the grille of the DBS and an embossed
understand the importance of meticulous craftsmanship and creating
black calf leather strap mirroring the leather inside the car. Like the car, the
beautifully designed and engineered products and the Aston Martin DBS
watch will have red detailing and will be strictly limited to 50 examples.
Superleggera TAG Heuer Edition reflects those values beautifully.”
TAG Heuer Vice President Brand and Communication, Minna Philipson
The Aston Martin DBS Superleggera TAG Heuer Edition is presented in
commented “TAG Heuer is about Avant Garde Innovation and Savoir Faire,
Monaco Black paint with a satin black tinted carbon fibre roof, mirrors,
and we thrive to always challenge and increase performance. The creations
vents, louvres, splitter and spoiler. The bespoke specification includes
born from our partnership with Aston Martin, whether they are luxury
satin black 21” twin spoke wheels fitted with Pirelli P Zero tyres with a red
timepieces or sports cars, are the perfect illustration of this commitment.
accent to complement the red brake calipers. If the unique livery with red
With the Aston Martin DBS Superleggera TAG Heuer Edition, we reach a new
highlighting doesn’t give away the model type, the fender badge with TAG
milestone in our collaboration, and we are proud to see it wearing the TAG
Heuer logo will do so.
Heuer logo.”
Inside, the DBS boasts pure black leather and alcantra seats with red
The DBS Superleggera was the perfect choice for this collaboration with
stitching and bespoke TAG Heuer quilting, each displaying the TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer. Aston Martin’s Super GT with its 5.2-litre twin-turbo V12 engine
logo, and carbon fibre and dark chrome has been used throughout to
is the ultimate combination of style and power, utilising modern materials
accentuate the clean lines of the cockpit.
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DEF Y EL PRIMERO 21
Z E N I T H , T H E F U T U R E O F S W I S S W AT C H M A K I N G
w w w . z e n i t h - w a t c h e s . c o m
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