GMT MIDDLE EAST EDITION 22 - APRIL 2019 by GMT MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Interviews Catherine RÃ©nier CEO Jaeger-LeCoultre

JEWELRY Animal Kingdom CRAFTS Chez Anita Porchet WOMEN IN watchmaking

CHARRIOL Marie-olga Jewelry Watch Collection

GMT ME No 22 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2019

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TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM.

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F O U N D I N G M E M B E R O F T H E Q U A L I T Y F L E U R I E R C E R T I F I CAT I O N A N D PA R T N E R O F T H E F O U N DAT I O N H I G H H O R O L O G Y

Boutiques : Avenues Mall KUWAIT CITY Tel 225 97 477 - Souk Al-Kout Kuwait Mall KUWAIT CITY Tel 239 30 392 - Royal Plaza Mall DOHA Tel 441 31 430 Mall of DHAHRAN Tel 138 686 799 - Panorama Mall RIYADH Tel 112 816 159 - Thalia Mall JEDDAH Tel 122 635 031 Avenues Mall MUSCAT Tel 220 05 224 - City Centre Mall MANAMA Tel 175 81 208 - World Trade Centre Mall ABU DHABI Tel 263 13 030

MARIE-OLGA watch collection

www.charriol.com | www.facebook.com/CharriolOfficial KUWAIT : Trafalgar Tel 188 1188 OMAN : Muscat Watch Center Tel +968 245 02 886 QATAR : Al-Muftah Tel +974 444 41 320 SAUDI ARABIA : Al-Hussaini Trading Co. Tel +966 265 26 000 UAE Abu Dhabi : MR Khoory & Sons Tel +971 262 22 200

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Editorial SUMMER 2019

ymbolically, the title of our 100% ladies’ special edition published for the first time in 2017 GMT Ladies Middle East Edition has thus now become GMT Ladies Watches & Jewelleries. This metamorphosis runs very deep, involving a complete makeover of its layout, content and editorial team. The outcome no longer reads like a single watchmaking

magazine dedicated to watches for women and jewelry, but more like an international women’s magazine (of which so few remain !) focusing on feminine watchmaking and jewelry (it is still the only one). I would like to extend an enormous vote of thanks to our female contributors for this edition’s undertaking and hope that our lady readers will find the end result as successful as I do. This is also an opportunity for me to thank our loyal translators, Susan and Birgit, who have ensured the outstanding quality of the articles in English since the very beginning of GMT French Edition back in 2000, and whose vigilance has sometimes been a huge help with regard to issues in the original texts. It is often said that women represent the future of watches and jewelry, but the same undoubtedly applies to the press !

FADI JAMIL I Publisher, Editor-in-Chief

Interviews Catherine Rénier CEO Jaeger-LeCoultre

GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com Head of Creative / Graphic Designer: KYLE EVIDENTE | creative@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com

JEWELRY Animal Kingdom CRAFTS Chez Anita Porchet WOMEN IN watchmaking

Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com

GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma © Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

CHARRIOL Marie-olga Jewelry Watch Collection

GMT ME No 22 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2019

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GMT ME LADIES MAGAZINE NO22 2019

We assemble every single watch twice. Because perfection takes time.

For us, perfection is a matter of principle. This is why, on principle,

parts are cleaned and decorated by hand with finishing and polishing

we craft all timepieces with the same care and assemble each watch

techniques, followed by the final assembly procedure. This assures

twice. Thus, after the Saxonia Automatic has been assembled for the

long-term functional integrity and the immaculacy of all artisanal fin-

first time and precisely adjusted, it is taken apart again. The movement

ishes. Even if this takes a little more time. www.alange-soehne.com

You are cordially invited to discover the collection at:

A. LANGE & SÖHNE BOUTIQUE DUBAI The Dubai Mall · Tel. +971 4 325 39 23 · dubai@lange-soehne.ae

ME_ARE_C_BTQDubai_GMTLadies_SaxAuto_PG_220x285_ATMO-271-17.indd 1

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CONTENTS GMT LADIES WATCHES AND JEWELLERIES

LIFESTYLE

105 JAQUET DROZ

Mechanical bloom Lady 8 Flower

40 NEWS 46 IT GIRL

Giulia Gaudino 48 HOT NEWS 78 TAPIS ROUGE RED CARPET 80 FASHION WEEK 94 ELEGANCE

Gaga Milano Fancy Edition 130 JET-SET

Geneva: Where City Breaks and Mountain Adventures Meet 134 SPA

ART ART

Guerlain Spa: At One&Only The Palm

85 JEWELRY

Animal kingdom CRAFTS 116 At home with Anita Porchet,

daughter of fire 128 The photographer of time

100 AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak

Frosted Gold Carolina Bucci Limited Edition

TECH INSIGHTS EDITOR’S PICKS 74 Colors and carats 119 White as snow 68 COVER STORY

Charriol New Marie-Olga Jewelry Watch Collection 82 INTERVIEW

Catherine Rénier CEO Jaeger-LeCoultre 32

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122 PORTFOLIO

CONTENTS GMT LADIES WATCHES AND JEWELLERIES

ANIMAL Kingdom

MARQUES BRANDS 90 WOMEN IN WATCHMAKING 108 PHOTOSHOOT

Hublot Big Bang 122 PORTFOLIO

Chopard Haute Joaillerie

CLOSE-UP OF 10 NEW RELEASES

98 GRAFF

Blossoming jewelry 99 HERMÈS

Galloping ahead 100 AUDEMARS PIGUET

Reflecting perfection 101 EBEL

The origins of casual chic 102 GRAFF

Blossoming garden 103 PARMIGIANI FLEURIER

Anthem to rubies 104 HERMÈS

Hide and seek 105 JAQUET DROZ

Mechanical bloom

106 PATEK PHILIPPE

In automatic mode 107 RICHARD MILLE

Distinctive amulets

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

HERMÈS

Galop d’Hermès

94 GAGA MILANO

Fancy edition

D1MILANO.COM

CONTRIBUTORS

Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor Brice Lechevalier, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.

NAZANIN LANKARANI MICHÈLE BRUNNER Writing about art taught me that the beauty of well-made objects derives from the union of form, function and modernity.

A specialized watchmaking writer, I am passionate about art and literature, and consistently curious about exploring the world around us.

CLOÉ MUGNY A translator by training, I love crafting language just as a watchmaker expresses his meticulous know-how.

BRICE LECHEVALIER

MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON Tick means time for an encounter ; and tock the time devoted to writing. For 12 years, I have derived intense pleasure from telling intriguing watchmaking stories.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

What a pleasure to create a new magazine each month (on watches or sailing) and to share our passions with a premium readership !

CONTRIBUTORS

LIAH MILLASSON My life at the moment is all about juggling between the press, the Internet and baby bottles, making each moment even more precious and duly savored.

ANTONIO NIETO LAURENCE JENNI While the graphic world is my metaphorical hobby-horse, spending time with my literal horse helps me achieve the right work-life balance.

I’ve been a fashion, interior design and lifestyle journalist for 25 years, cultivating expertise and a fascination for the history of trends, crafts and beauty.

SARA ALLERSTORFER EDOUARD HAEGI I love taking on fresh technical and artistic challenges in order to create high-quality images for each issue !

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Fashion and jewelry are to me what Yves is to Saint Laurent or bubbles to champagne. The same goes for my Karamell Kids Concept Store.

HM FLOWERS ROYAL COLLECTION

Swiss Craftsmanship

www.arnoldandson.com

NEWS BRICE LECHEVALIER

RENVERSANTE CODE COCO STUNNING CODE COCO

Actress, singer and Chanel ambassador Alma Jodorowski hugs to her chest a book every bit as endearing as her Chanel Code Coco watch.

CANDIES AND SNOW SETTING No less than 322 snow-set precious stones (of eight different kinds) transform this first self-winding white gold Premier Winston limited-edition into an inimitably sweet interpretation of time.

COLORS IN MOTION These supple and flowing 73-carat earrings – composed of two emerald-cut diamonds, 50 white diamonds, 104 pink diamonds and 316 rubellites – belong to the line-up of 25 one-of-a-kind models created by de Grisogono to celebrate its 25th anniversary.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

EXCEPTIONALLY GRAFF

While extreme rarity is the norm at Graff, this pair of earrings named The Eternal Twins is all the more exceptional in that it stages two extraordinary identical diamonds weighing 50.23 carats each, magnificently suspended from a shower of round- and baguette-cut diamonds.

WHEN THE SNAKE BITES ITS TAIL

The Ouroboros collection by Gucci draws inspiration from this Ancient Egyptian symbol to provide a theatrical take on rings and necklaces symbolizing introspection and the infinite cycle of nature, interpreted in gold set with diamonds and other gemstones.

KARL CHARTS A NEW COURSE FOR GABRIELLE

This instantly identifiable new Chanel bag designed by Karl Lagerfeld in the Gabrielle collection plays on contrasts, with gilt or silvered chains for variable wearing options, along with navy blue wool and black leather for a range of tactile pleasures.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 41

STAR OF THE SILVER SCREEN

There’s no stopping Lady Gaga, nor indeed actor and director Bradley Cooper who cast her in the main role alongside him in the movie A Star is Born. At the September premiere in Los Angeles, the star with 30 million Instagram followers wore a Bulgari high jewelry set.

SANDY FUSION BY POMELLATO

Sparkling grains of sand are the inspiration for the Sabbia collection by Pomellato, notably this new pink gold choker featuring white, brown and black diamonds set in an artfully irregular manner.

SERPENTI POWER The iconic snake’s head symbolizing Bulgari’s Serpenti collection creates an even greater impact on its leather and glass backdrop, shot through by a powerful bolt of lightning worthy of the planet’s most glamorous rock stages. The Serpenti Forever Flash Brushed will be lighting up store windows as of January 2019.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Tel: +971 7 228 4895

JESSICA CHASTAIN SHOWS UP IN PIAGET Even when not on a film-set, the Piaget ambassador is consistently in the spotlight, as seen here at a Ralph Lauren event in London, to which she wore Piaget Rose earrings and the Limelight Mediterranean Garden ring (226 diamonds and an oval-cut diamond).

HERMÈS RISES TO NEW PEAKS In its 2019 Spring/Summer collection, Hermès takes us across the Alps, fast-tracking where possible, naturally equipped with its tote bag in Togo and Swift calf featuring colorful detailing.

AN INDEPENDENT DESIGNER AT HEART

Marina Cremers not only jointly manages the largest independent watch and jewelry boutique in Western Switzerland, A l’Emeraude, but also creates rings, bracelets and necklaces – to the delight of all women looking for unusual and even bespoke jewelry pieces.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

WORLD CHAMPION ! Victorious in the hepathlon (a combined seven-event track and field contest) at the Rio de Janeiro 2016 Olympic Games, and also crowned 2018 World Champion in London, 23-year-old Nafi Thiam has become the first female athlete to join the Richard Mille team, which praises “her vision and her approach to performance. She has a strong analytical sense and does not rush herself.”

PRECIOUS COLOR TRILOGY With its Bouton d’or® collection, Van Cleef & Arpels continues exploring its graphic approach to the paillette motif, including through a necklace featuring a daring play on materials and colors : lapis lazuli, yellow gold and turquoise accompany the sparkle of diamonds in accentuating an elegant neckline.

ANCHORED IN LIGHT Radiating the same aura of timeless distinction, Hermès celebrates the 80th anniversary of its iconic collection inspired by the anchor chain motif, embracing jewelry history with its Chaîne d’ancre Lumière ring graced with yellow gold, diamonds and blue lapis lazuli.

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IT GIRL BRICE LECHEVALIER

GIULIA GAUDINO

The Italian influencer does not confine herself to fashion and travel like so many social media enthusiasts ; her dynamism also leads her to take part in many conferences and seminars. Combining useful with pleasant is part of her philosophy, such as here at the Manoir de Verzy (owned by Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin).

SUNGLASSES Ray-Ban

WATCH

Hublot Big Bang One Click King Gold

DRESS

Otra Vez

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Paris 8ème

Grand Powers 52 rue François 1er - Paris 8ème Book your stay directly on hotelgrandpowersparis.com +33 (0)1 47 23 91 05

Grand Powers is a new 5 star boutique hotel, in the heart of the Paris Golden triangle. The hotel embodies the Parisian effortless chic and offers a vibrant modern touch combined with all luxury services, in a prime location.

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Celebrating 50 years of the Tag Heuer Monaco at the Geneva International Motor Show

IN 1969, HEUER LAUNCHED THE MONACO – FIFTY YEARS LATER, TAG HEUER CELEBRATES THIS ICONIC MODEL WITH THE EXCLUSIVE ‘TAG HEUER MONACO 50 YEARS ANNIVERSARY EXHIBITION’ DUBAI, UAE – 5 MARCH 2019: TAG Heuer, the avant-garde Swiss watch brand is proud to present the exclusive ‘TAG Heuer Monaco 50 years Anniversary Exhibition’ at the 89th Geneva International Motor Show and celebrate the iconic Monaco; an unconventional timepiece that introduced two cutting-edge world firsts, the Monaco was a product of Heuer’s vision and pioneering spirit. Half a century later, this iconic model is being honoured with events in Europe, the US and Asia throughout 2019 – and a new Monaco limited-edition model will be launched at each event to celebrate the timepiece that first caught the world’s attention 50 years ago. A new book titled Paradoxical Superstar documents the historical and technical highlights of this unlikely icon and will be available in TAG Heuer boutiques and on the website from May 2019.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

The NEW FRAGRANCE for HER

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Cat’s Eye High Jewellery

When Watchmaking savoir-faire meets Jewellery mastery AN EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECE, AN ODE TO THE BEAUTIFUL, TO THE PRECIOUS AND TO THE FEMININE THAT COMBINES SEVERAL ARTISTIC TECHNIQUES FOR A UNIQUE EXPRESSION OF REFINEMENT. DAZZLING IN ITS OWN RIGHT, EACH PIECE IS SPECIALLY DESIGNED, CRAFTED AND INLAID WITH PRECIOUS STONES BY MASTER WATCHMAKERS WORKING AS ONE WITH MASTER GEM SETTERS TO CREATE THE TRULY EXCEPTIONAL. GIRARD-PERREGAUX brings forth a creation more dazzling than ever, a magnificent alliance of fine watchmaking craftsmanship

of the precious stones – 286 diamonds of varying cuts (totalling

and gem setting artistry.

2.05 carats) and 40 baguette sapphires – commanded the highest

Here, the famous ellipse – hallmark of the Maison’s feminine

level of artisanal artistry. Once it has passed muster, each stone

collection – becomes a scintillating work of art, rendered all

is individually shaped into its assigned cut: baguette, trapeze,

the more sublime by diamonds and sapphires in their most

brilliant. The prowess behind the Cat’s Eye High Jewellery comes

precious expression.

through in the juxtaposition of cuts, the fruit of a lengthy process

The Cat’s Eye High Jewellery uniquely combines two of the most refined techniques in gem cutting and gem setting: the first is the “invisible setting”, a truly exceptional skill that is the domain

combining patience and passion. And it all comes together in sophistication that transcends into a creation of living light. Finally, to make this masterpiece of Fine Jewellery come

of only the most experienced Masters; the second is the “snow

alive, Girard-Perregaux inserted a self-winding movement, the

setting” in which the natural aspect achieved requires diamonds

GP3300, entirely conceived and produced at the manufacture

of varying sizes and weights. Any light that reaches it is amplified,

Girard-Perregaux.

just like starlight through a network of astronomical mirrors, triggering what is truly an explosion of brilliance. Creating this masterpiece demanded no fewer than 316

Diamonds, blue sapphires, rubies… With Cat’s Eye High Jewellery, Girard-Perregaux’s proposes a class of Haute Joaillerie watches that come in multiple variations, each one uniquely

diamonds and 94 blue sapphires. The precious and exceptional

entrancing as it is created bespoke to meet the particular

character of this timekeeper is further enhanced by the case set

expectations of a most discerning clientele in search of the

with 23 baguette diamonds and 54 blue sapphires that reach till

ultimate in exclusivity.

the lugs, creating contours that also beckon the sense of touch.

At its centre, a sumptuously paved dial where every single one

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

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Hot News FADI JAMIL

IWC Celebrates Opening of the new Tottenham Hotspur Stadium as Official Timing Partner SCHAFFHAUSEN/LONDON, 3RD APRIL 2019 – Tottenham Hotspur

The brand’s meticulous attention to detail and absolute

and IWC Schaffhausen celebrate the club’s new stadium which

commitment to innovation are important qualities that we also

will officially open its doors to a full capacity audience on the 3rd

value at the club. It is an exciting period for both brands and we

April, when Spurs take on Crystal Palace in the Premier League.

look forward to working closely together over the coming years.”

The multi-year agreement will see the Swiss luxury watch brand have a strong presence across the club’s various channels including inside the new state-of-the-art stadium. IWC Schaffhausen was founded in 1868 by the American

The club’s new stadium has the largest capacity for a football club in London with 62,000 seats. It is one of the world’s most

watchmaking pioneer Florentine Ariosto Jones. He drew on

hi-tech stadiums, benefitting from smart technology and

the help of eminently qualified Swiss watchmakers, modern

pushing the boundaries of what a sports venue can offer. Four

technology and hydropower sourced from the nearby River Rhine

giant HD screens total more than 1,000 square metres inside

to manufacture pocket watches of the highest possible quality.

the arena – which is the largest in Europe, along with two

IWC’s mechanical timepieces are handcrafted in their workshops

façade displays and three tiers of ribbon displays, representing

with meticulous attention to detail. Their six watch families

a first for a UK stadium. The new facility is equipped with more

combine precision engineering with extraordinary and timeless

than 1,600 wireless access points providing 100 per cent mobile

design, bringing the finest technology and unique emotions to

coverage. A minimum of two NFL matches at the stadium every

their owner’s wrists.

year, as well as other events including concerts, will bring a new

Fran Jones, Head of Partnerships, Tottenham Hotspur, said:

LARGEST CLUB STADIUM IN LONDON

audience to the local area, showcasing Tottenham and bringing

“We are delighted to announce our partnership with IWC, a

further economic and social benefits to the area with truly global

luxury watch brand that has an incredible history and heritage.

coverage and attractions.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

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Hot News FADI JAMIL

OMEGA

Iconic Ladies Evening

LAUNCHING THE NEW CONSTELLATION in Shanghai with Cindy Crawford, Nicole Kidman Alessandra Ambrosio and Liu Shishi. OMEGA put on an evening of true star quality when it launched its new Constellation “Manhattan” collection in Shanghai. The event welcomed four of the brand’s most inspiring female friends - Cindy Crawford, Nicole Kidman, Alessandra Ambrosio and Liu Shishi – who all arrived in spectacular fashion. They were the glamorous guests of honour for the celebrations, and just like the Constellation watches, they brought their own individual beauty and charisma to the occasion. But the magic wasn’t just limited to the special guests. Stepping inside the venue, it was clear to see that the evening’s elegant theme extended throughout the entire decor, with an exquisite backdrop of white and gold that mirrored the “Manhattan” skyline. Of course, the true stars of the night were the watches themselves. The Constellation “Manhattan” design has been a favourite since 1982 and today’s modern look features more than 100 models with enhanced details and design. Certainly, this was a night to remember for everyone in Shanghai.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

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Hot News FADI JAMIL

RADO True Thinline Gem: Inma Bermudez for Rado LENGNAU, SWITZERLAND – 2019, With her European flair,

light absorption, reflection and refraction to create the illusion

natural positivity and curiosity for new things, when it comes

of depth and thickness in the brand’s groundbreaking thinnest

to design, Spanish designer Inma Bermudez is known for

watch, which has a case just 5 mm thick.

creating new and interesting versions of everyday objects. In

Adding to the depth and sparkle is the application of 12 tiny

2019, she has worked with pioneering, design-led watchmaker

diamonds at the outer edges of the dial as well as subtle gold

Rado to create her first wristwatch.

colour detailing that draws the eye and adds warmth to the icy,

Lighting, vases, clocks, kitchenware, textiles and bathroom fittings have all received the Inma Bermudez treatment, and the

porcelain look of the True Thinline Gem. Speaking about the collaboration with Inma Bermudez,

award-winning designer regularly breathes new life into practical,

Rado CEO Matthias Breschan said: “Inma has brought a

everyday items we tend to take for granted. With expertise in

unique lightness and optimism to the True Thinline as well as

crafting objects from delicate porcelain, working with Rado’s

conveying hardness, depth and durability through her choice of

super hard high-tech materials was a real challenge for Inma.

jewel motif. It was a fantastic challenge for Rado to use our own

From her studio in Valencia, Spain, which she established in 2007, Inma came up with the initial concept for the True Thinline Gem. It was based on the idea of using signature Rado

materials in a new way for a product that has the eternal feel of a diamond and the long-lasting appeal of a classic idea.” The True Thinline Gem in pure white high-tech ceramic with

materials to create a twist on classic jewellery design that looks

facetted sapphire crystal and diamond indexes is available in

super modern as well as enduring.

a limited edition of 1,001 pieces, each with a special case back

Combining facetted sapphire crystal – a material technology

A DESIGN COLLABORATION THAT IS A TRUE GEM

engraving. It is the latest in a series of designer collaborations

Rado has used since 1962 – cut to look like an enormous diamond

for Rado, the most forward-thinking design player in

with a textured relief dial that recalls the many objects Inma

watchmaking today and a multi award-winning designer in its

has crafted in porcelain, the True Thinline uses a unique play of

own right.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Panerai Luminor Marina Panerai’s iconic watch, the Luminor Marina, is now presented in a new version, strong and robust like the stainless steel of which the case and bracelet are made, with the P.9010 Manufacture automatic mechanical movement. AVAILABLE IN SIZES of 42 or 44 millimetres, the new Luminor

pleasant on the wrist, sporty, yet sophisticated in design with

Marina has a brand new silver-coloured dial, with a special

alternating polished and brushed finishes.

brushed finish formed of vertical stripes, and large figures

On the back of the case, the bidirectional oscillating weight

covered with white luminous material ensuring excellent

of the P.9010 Manufacture movement, automatic with a power

visibility at night and underwater. Symmetrical with the date

reserve of three days, can be admired through a sapphire glass

at 3 o’clock is the counter at 9 o’clock in which the blue small

porthole. The calibre has the device for stopping the balance

seconds hand rotates, blue being the colour of Panerai and

wheel to synchronise the watch and the mechanism for rapidly

the sea, the element with which the brand has always been

adjusting the hour hand, which can be moved forwards or

historically linked.

backwards without interfering with the running of the minute

The case, made of AISI 316L stainless steel, an alloy

or changing the time zone, also enables the date to be adjusted

unmistakable thanks to the “bridge” device which protects the

very quickly.

winding crown, and it is fitted with a perfectly integrated metal

hand. This particular function, very useful when setting the time

particularly resistant to corrosion, has the classic Panerai design,

The two versions of the new Luminor Marina with a

bracelet. The shape of each link recalls the iconic bridge and it

diameter of 42 mm (PAM00977) and 44 mm (PAM00978) are

is harmoniously integrated with the other links – without any

water-resistant to 10 bar (100 metres ) and 30 bar (300 metres)

screws – in a bracelet which is perfectly ergonomic, flexible and

respectively.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Classic Fusion Chronograph ICC Cricket World Cup 2019

New boundaries: Hublot launches the official ICC Cricket World Cup 2019 watch and announces cricketing legend Kevin Pietersen as a new friend of the brand BASEL, MARCH 2019 – Hublot, the Swiss watchmaker, is passionate

was an explosive batsman and one of the outstanding cricketers

about sport and is the first watch brand to work with the ICC

of his generation. He played the last of his 104 Tests in 2014,

(International Cricket Council) and to partner with its elite

and scored over 8,000 runs at an average of 47 during his

international cricketing events, including this summer’s ICC

international Test career.

Cricket World Cup, which will be held in England and Wales. The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph ICC Cricket World Cup

the ICC Cricket World Cup 2015. Today, the Swiss Watchmaker

2019 is the second cricket watch created by Hublot. The first was

also counts Australian cricketing legend Michael Clarke as an

produced in limited series for the ICC Cricket World Cup 2015,

Official Ambassador, and Indian limited overs vice-captain Rohit

which was won by Australia.

Sharma as a Friend of the Brand. In February, Hublot announced

The new watch is a celebration of cricket and picks up from the original Hublot Cricket World Cup watch produced four years ago. It features a number of characterful design touches to mark

former England Ashes-winning captain and international cricket commentator Michael Vaughan as a Friend of the Brand. Hublot is the Official Timekeeper and Official Watch of this

the association. The grey and red detailing found in the dial,

summer’s festival of cricket, which begins on May 30 when the

satin-finished and polished ceramic bezel and leather and

tournament hosts and top-ranked side England take on South

rubber strap are inspired by the colour palette of this year’s

Africa. During the tournament’s six-week schedule this summer,

event logo; the hands of the twin counters for the chronograph

the 10 qualifying teams will all play each other in a round-robin

minutes and small seconds are shaped like cricket bats; the

format. In total, there will be 48 matches. The final will be played

triple appliqué hour marker at 12 o’clock mirrors the three

on July 14 at Lord’s in London, the iconic home of cricket. Hublot

wooden stumps guarded by a batsman; and the sapphire case

will time each 50-over match.

back is decorated with the ICC Cricket World Cup 2019 logo. The 45mm satin-finished and polished titanium case houses

Cricket is one of the world’s most popular sports. The ICC Cricket World Cup 2015 attracted an estimated global audience

HUB1155, a skeletonised automatic chronograph calibre with a

of more than one billion. Last year, the ICC published a research

date at 6 o’clock. Only 100 pieces will be made.

project that revealed that more than 300 million people participate

At Baselworld 2019, Hublot is also announcing a new Friend of the Brand, former England captain Kevin Pietersen. Kevin

Hublot has been working in cricket since it partnered with

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

in the sport worldwide.

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Harry Winston The Avenue Collection™ Avenue Classic Aurora

A tribute to the Art Deco style that influenced many of Harry Winston’s early designs, the Avenue Classic Aurora exudes the unparalleled glamor of New York, with sparkling diamonds and colorful sapphires. New York’s Fifth Avenue has long played a pivotal role

at the waist to accommodate the triangular-shaped motif.

York Flagship Salon, Fifth Avenue is one of the world’s most

At either end of the case, the iconic Avenue Collection arches

prestigious shopping addresses.

are highlighted in large blue or pink baguette-cut sapphires.

When Harry Winston founded his jewelry empire in 1932, the

Like all timepieces in the Avenue Collection, the gold case and

Art Deco movement was in full swing. Inspired by the streamlined

the sapphire crystal protecting the dial are gently cambered

styling of this period, the Avenue Classic Aurora features a

throughout to follow the natural curve of the wrist.

sophisticated rectangular case set with diamonds and sapphires that emulate the twinkling lights of the city that doesn’t sleep. Color is the theme at Harry Winston this year, and the Avenue

A lustrous white mother-of-pearl dial casts even more light on the timepiece and is printed with black Arabic numerals and an octagonal minute track, shaped in Mr. Winston’s preferred cut

Classic Aurora models are adorned with 12 baguette-cut pink or

for gemstones – the emerald-cut. The 2018 editions feature eight

blue sapphires. While the Art Deco period is most often classified

diamond-set indexes and the small seconds counter is paved with

by its use of black and white color schemes – in part influenced

19 brilliant-cut diamonds and encircled by a gold ring.

by old movies and photos of the period – the use of color was also a key component of the time. Presented in luxurious 18-karat white and rose gold cases, the

Flanking the case are 50 brilliant-cut diamonds that taper

in the history of the House. Home to Harry Winston’s New

The Avenue Classic Aurora is fitted with a high-end Swiss quartz movement designed for carefree maintenance and is presented with an alligator leather strap that echoes the color of

Avenue Classic Aurora plays with the juxtaposition of different

the diamonds and sapphires. The gold ardillon buckle is set with

sizes, cuts and colors of stones to create a timepiece that tempers

six brilliant-cut diamonds and features a gold folding clasp that

bold geometry with dynamic movement.

adapts perfectly to the wrist for enhanced comfort and security.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Emma Stone, Alicia Vikander, and Léa Seydoux star in the new Louis Vuitton Campaign

THREE OF LOUIS VUITTON’S ambassadors were chosen to

strength, the three actresses bring their own personalities to

showcase the Maison’s New Classics, the collection of leather

their chosen bag: the classic Capucines for Emma Stone, the

goods that have become modern icons. Emma Stone, Alicia

playful Twist for Alicia Vikander, and the stylish Dauphine for

Vikander, and Léa Seydoux are women at the forefront of

Léa Seydoux.

their art, and the new campaign serves as a reminder of

Photographed by Craig McDean and styled by Marie-Amélie

the powerful relationship that is forged between unique

Sauvé, the new campaign exudes the same timeless yet relevant

individuals and their handbags. Known for their grace and

spirit that is at the core of the New Classics collection.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

THE BOLT-68 COLLECTION INCLUDES THE CHAIN AND MEDALLION FOR TURNING YOUR EXCLUSIVE TIMEPIECE INTO A DISRUPTIVE POCKET WATCH

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Steve Guerdat and Alamo

took brilliant victory at the 2019 Longines FEI Jumping World CupTM Final GOTHENBURG (SWEDEN) / SAINT-IMIER (SWITZERLAND), 7

season leading up to the Final. The great winner, as well as the

APRIL 2019 – As the Title Partner, Official Timekeeper and Watch

second and the third, were presented with elegant Longines

of the much awaited Longines FEI Jumping World CupTM

timepieces from the hands of Matthieu Baumgartner, Vice

Final, Longines was delighted to crown Switzerland’s Steve

President Marketing.

Guerdat on Alamo as the new winner. This global equestrian rendezvous, held this year on the beautiful west coast of Sweden,

with the FEI Dressage World Cup™ Final, which offered great

in Gothenburg, puts an end to an exciting 2018-2019 season,

moments of elegance and emotional sports achievements.

which saw the world’s best jumping horses and riders fighting to

The prestigious Title was claimed by Germany’s Isabell Werth

qualify for the grand Final. In addition, Longines was pleased to

on Weihegold OLD, who impressed by the precision of their

be associated with Saturday’s FEI Dressage World CupTM Final,

performance. The podium was completed by Laura Graves (USA)

which was captured by German rider Isabell Werth on Weihegold

on Verdades and Helen Langehanenberg (GER) on Damsey FRH.

OLD. On this occasion, Swiss watchmaking brand Longines was

Besides, this edition of the Finals was the perfect occasion for

proud to highlight a new model of its iconic HydroConquest

the spectators to discover the Official Watch of the event, a new

collection as the Official Watch of the event.

model from the iconic HydroConquest collection, which combines

On 7 April 2019, Steve Guerdat (CH) and Alamo brilliantly

Over the weekend, Longines was also pleased to be associated

technical excellence with a sporty silhouette and an elegant style.

made the difference in the Longines FEI Jumping World CupTM

The brand added reimagined variations to this line in 2018 with

Final at the Scandinavium Arena in Gothenburg. The winner’s

timepieces that preserve the traditional style of diving watches,

compatriot Martin Fuchs riding Clooney 51 finished second

inspired by the unique requirements of the sport. The highlighted

ahead of Peder Fredricson (SWE) and Catch Me Not S. In its role of

model in Gothenburg features a blue sunray dial completed by

Official Timekeeper, Longines was proud to time the remarkable

a highly technical and innovative ceramic bezel matching the

performances of these athletes during the whole 2018/2019

colour of the dial.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Cover Story FADI JAMIL

Charriol new Marie-Olga Jewelry watch collection

The Houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautiful tribute to a bold and refined femininity

The secret links between equestrian and

slender commas to the beautiful straightness of

watchmaking arts are stamped with the

two hands punctuating the passage of time.

transmission, passion. They both share the

its asymmetrical lugs which underlines the

same strong and timeless values: rigor, purity,

same song of gestures with the hand as a major

unique

stirrup

extends

the

case

with

equestrian metaphor and magnifies the purity and

actor, the eye as a conductor and the heart as

personality of MARIE-OLGAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s case.

achieve excellence, erase complexity to keep only

with white diamonds, reflecting the watercolor

perfect moment.

precious markers.

a motor. They take time without counting it to

the essential, the beauty, the pure gesture, the Quintessence of all these attentions, the MARIE-OLGA watch

is a jewellery watchmaking creation that pays tribute to one of the passions of its eponymous muse, Marie-Olga Charriol, wife of the founder of the House and distinguished rider.

The bezel and lugs of some versions are set

shades of the mother-of-pearl dial, punctuated by

An exclusive fastening system is hidden between the top of

the bracelet and the case to offer each gesture a fluidity and a graceful mystery.

Symbolic link of all Charriol collections, the steel cable is

Bright and refined piece of watch art, this new ambassador

here lightweight and ultra-feminine to extend the equestrian

and personality. The time that gives patina and embellishes

mane on the bracelet. Its 16 twisted steel strands of 1 mm in

of the Maison Charriol combines femininity, sophistication beautiful objects has shaped its lines, without sparing its hours, to give them curves of ideal proportions.

The silhouette of this watch reflects the gestures of the rider

spirit and the evocation of the weaving of a competition horse

diameter, exquisitely thin and of unfailing strength, offer this watchmakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jewel its Charriol signature.

In the purity of pink or yellow gold, it becomes a refined

on her horse, combining voltes and figures. The case conjugates

daytime jewel. Covered in diamonds, it is of a daring

feminine and of a masterful technicity.

watch offers the most demanding women the spirit of a

roundness and asymmetry. Its oval shape is visually soft and The volutes of the magisterial Arabic numerals on its dial

like purebreds raiser in a mother-of-pearl enclosure add their

sophistication. But whatever the version, the MARIE-OLGA watchmaker and a jeweler whose beauty is both timeless and boldly modern.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

LADY MARIE-OLGA WATCH CASE: stainless steel, 32 mm x 24 mm, PVD treatment in yellow or pink gold SETTING: 89 white diamonds on the case (0.85 carat) 59 diamonds on the clasp (0.37 carat) DIAL: white mother-of-pearl, 2 Arabic numerals, 10 diamond indexes MOVEMENT: Swiss ETA quartz movement, hours, minutes BRACELET: stainless steel, 16 cables 1 mm in diameter CLASP: stainless steel with PVD treatment in yellow or pink gold AVAILABILITY: June 2019

Cable and femininity by Charriol

A LOVE STORY SINCE 1983 Iconic and inescapable, the steel cable, present in every Charriol

creation, both rebellious and sophisticated, embodies the «art of living the difference», in the image of Celtic culture and femininity, dear to the brand and more than ever of a timeless modernity.

Queens, druidesses, fairies or goddesses, Celtic women expressed

qualities of strength, Independence and intelligence of a great contemporaneity well before the Christian era. Far from passivity, both protective mothers, passionate lovers, political advisers and formidable fighters, the complexity of their soul and heart has inspired many legends of love, spirituality and freedom.

Ariadne’s thread of the Charriol collections, obviously present in

this new collection, how not to see in their tendrils and volutes, in

their stunning curves of metal twisted with 3 or 4 branches, the evocation of a womanity so intense that it becomes indomitable.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

Editor’ Editor’ss Picks Picks Colors AND CARATS

1. ET 2. LOUIS VUITTON / Puce Star Blossom / et BG Star Blossom Double 3. CORUM / Eleganza / 4. HARRY WINSTON / Ocean Biretrograde Automatic 5. JAEGER-LECOULTRE / Rendez-Vous Celestial 6. HERMÈS / Arceau Robe du Soir 7. FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT / Ladies Automatic 8. CRÉATION A L’EMERAUDE 9. TIFFANY / Paper Flowers 10. RJ / ARRAW Chronograph Titanium Pink Diamonds 11. CENTURY / Tiara 12. LOUIS VUITTON / Tambour Horizon Monogram

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

nikkytok/stock.adobe.com

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 75

Editor’s Picks CLOÉ MUGNY

All about ovals The key to a successful design ? The watch should be recognizable even from a distance. While round cases continue to play a starring role, some brands nonetheless offer less traditional and even highly unusual shapes. This play on geometry endows watches with unique character and identity. So which of these appeals to you ?

FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT

CARTIER Baignoire Allongée

Classics Art Déco

Medium Model

CHOPARD Happy Sport Oval

GIRARDPERREGAUX

xy/stock.adobe.com

Cat’s Eye Plum Blossom

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

RED CARPET ANTONIO NIETO

THE RED CARPET,

Vincent Wulveryck Â© Cartier

OR THE ULTIMATE SHOWCASE

GOLSHIFTEH FARAHANI SHINES BRIGHT AT THE CANNES FILM FESTIVAL She is a goddess whose noble bearing and stunning smile perfectly define her sunny personality that is both strong and sensitive. Attired in a flamboyant dress and a fabulous Cartier necklace in platinum set with diamonds, onyx and rubies including one from Tajikistan weighing 17.45 carats, the fascinating Iranian actress Golshifteh Farahani lit up the Cannes red carpet.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

ALESSANDRA AMBROSIO IGNITED THE RED CARPET AT THE CANNES FILM FESTIVALâ&#x20AC;&#x2030;! Zuhair Murad draped her heavenly figure in a designer sheath dress embroidered with graphic black sequins. This perfection was further enhanced by a piece of de GRISOGONO High Jewelry finery in white gold, set with more than 300 carats of emeralds and some 30 carats of diamonds. Beauty blends with the unparalleled excellence of an exceptional fashion designer and an equally outstanding jeweler.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 79

FASHION WEEK ANTONIO NIETO

DOLCE & GABBANA NECKLACE, “PRIMAVERA COLLECTION”

FLOWERS DOLCE & GABBANA FALL/ WINTER 2018-2019 READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION

A plant-life reflection of our human condition, flowers are always with us. From a springtime bud heralding the oft spectacular summer blooming, to the fading of autumn, they poetically sum up the different stages of life. They are

ONE-OF-A-KIND “STAR SAPPHIRE BROOCH” HIGH JEWELRY CREATION BY CINDY CHAO

the emblem of a perfection to which nature alone holds the key. We have constantly sought to appropriate flowers by all possible means. They adorn our homes with their precious iridescent petals and we have endlessly reproduced their shapes and colors since ancient times. Still today, they represent delicate gifts conveying a heart-felt message, and when set with gems, they will bloom forever.

BOUCHERON “FLEURS ETERNELLES” RING

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

CHANEL CRUISE COLLECTION 2018/19

ROSE PINK Life through rose-tinted spectacles – some sort of utopia ? More like some kind of therapy, would have been the retort from novelist Barbara Cartland, unchallenged queen

CARTIER NECKLACE, ONE-OF-A-KIND HIGH JEWELRY CREATION

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS “PRIMEROSE SECRÈTE” ONE-OF-A-KIND HIGH JEWELRY WATCH

DE BEERS ONE-OF-AKIND HIGH JEWELRY RING STARRING A PINK DIAMOND

of shocking pink. Contrary to appearances, pink has not always had these somewhat sugary, infantile connotations. From the 1950s onwards, its powdery shades admittedly became the color of choice for decorating the world of little girls, although its supremacy has since been challenged by militants of a less gender-focused education. Nonetheless, together with red, pink had more warriorlike connotations for gentlemen at the court of Louis XV who enjoyed wearing it in tribute to Madame de Pompadour. And today, rap has adopted pink. Subversive, simultaneously punk and dynamic, it makes light of conformism and imposes its own rules.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 81

Interview BRICE LECHEVALIER

Catherine RÃ©nier CEO Jaeger-LeCoultre

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

What does the new Gyrotourbillon presented at the SIHH 2019 mean to you ? Unveiling

our

Master

Grande

Tradition

Gyrotourbillon

Westminster Perpetual after five years of hard work is a great source of pride for those who have accomplished this feat, but also for the entire Manufacture. We have taken a new step forward in the expertise of the multi-axis tourbillon, which we have succeeded in miniaturizing despite the addition of complications. It is a peak demonstration of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ability to share expertise and innovative capacity on all levels. This new Gyrotourbillon is the ambassador of the unique watchmaking performance of our Manufacture, which is home to more than 180 skills. JaegerLeCoultre manufactures all its calibers in-house, including this type of model characterized by a complex set of associated horological complications, which are accommodated within a reasonably sized watch. We are constantly looking to improve our

“One of my roles is to share the beauty of this truly unique Manufacture.”

calibers, to test new technologies and new materials. Whether R&D teams, laboratories or methods, a whole organization is active on behalf of Fine Watchmaking, as vividly illustrated by the Gyrotourbillon at the SIHH 2019, while other exceptional creations are already in the pipeline. What does the return of the Polaris that was relaunched last year mean for Jaeger-LeCoultre ? We are both attentive to our customers and focused on our identity. The Polaris and the tribute paid to the Memovox since last year have enabled us to update a collection that corresponded to a need for sporting elegance, which has been somewhat lacking in the men’s range over recent years. This casual chic line is a reminder of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s history and respects its identity codes while meeting market expectations. Men all over the world have welcomed it with great enthusiasm, and the success of the chronograph with metal bracelet has far exceeded our expectations. Is the Reverso still the stuff of dreams ? Absolutely ! Jaeger-LeCoultre is fortunate to be able to count on this icon, endowed with a style that transcends fashion trends and notably features an Art Deco aesthetic that remains as timeless as ever. Moreover, the impact at the SIHH of the Reverso with a red wine dial that we unveiled was similar to that of the Gyrotourbillon. This modern color respectful of historical codes proved very popular. An icon naturally protects its identity and while it is already extremely well known, we still have many stories about it to share in order to continue expanding its circle of followers. 

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 83

“Other exceptional creations are already in the pipeline.”

Jaeger-LeCoultre is dedicating 2019 to “The Art of Precision” : is this about once more placing the Manufacture firmly front and center ? Yes, this theme first and foremost turns the spotlight on our Manufacture. Precision concerns both Métiers Rares (rare crafts) illustrated in our exhibition that set off from the SIHH to Miami for the Watches & Wonders show, as well as the specific choice of the red wine color for example, or the guillochage on the ultra-thin Master limited-edition models, and of course the precision involved in extremely technical horology with the 1,050 components of the Gyrotourbillon movement. The Art of Precision evokes certain ranges of rare crafts and watchmaking skills that make the Manufacture so special. This 186-year-old facility still hums with the same passion and humanity that drives the watch industry, particularly thanks to precision workmanship. One of my roles is to share the beauty of this truly unique Manufacture. In what ways does your previous experience at Van Cleef & Arpels prove valuable in your work at the head of Jaeger-LeCoultre ? In two respects. My experience at the Van Cleef & Arpels headquarters and in Asia, as well as previously in the USA with Cartier, is a strength in gaining a quick grasp of the market, better understanding cultural differences, as well as saving time when it comes to decision-making. With regard to Van Cleef & Arpels specifically, the respect for expertise cultivated there is very close to that of our Maison, which enabled me in a very natural way to arrive at the Manufacture and feel at home. Having spent a lot of time with artisans and jewelers, I immediately sensed in watchmakers the same respect for artisanal methods, the years of experience and the sharing of knowledge between generations. There are also similar values governing the authentic approaches and attitudes of our two Maisons, based on a long-term vision. Does the fact of presenting your new models three months later with next year’s SIHH scheduled for April 2020 involve substantial reorganization ? Not really, since relationships with our retailers are ongoing and we are involved in daily exchanges, so it doesn’t matter. It’s good news for both shows and the industry to speak with a single, louder voice and it in fact gives us a little more time to prepare for the next edition !

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JEWELRY SARA ALLERSTORFER

animal kingdom

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 85

ike any self-respecting fairytale, it begins with the words “Once upon a time…”. It would not be a fairytale without fabulous

beings, terrifying animals, and of course princesses. Well, once upon a time there was a Mexican actress whose flamboyant style had made her one of the best-loved femmes fatales in the movie industry during the 1940 and 1950s. Her name was Maria Felix, and her beauty was equaled only by her eccentric taste in jewelry. One day, Maria Felix strolled through the Cartier boutique in Paris carrying a jar containing a live baby crocodile. This unusual gift inspired the jeweler to create one of its most fantastic jewels ever: two crocodiles studded with thousands of diamonds and emeralds that could be worn as a brooch or necklace. It was no coincidence that Maria Felix was nicknamed “the Mexican panther”. This naturally feline star spent years of her life collecting jewelry from Cartier’s Panthère collection. The first panther motifs appeared in 1914

Some see them as ornaments and talismans, others as a source of fear and dread. Jewelry portraying animals may provoke divided opinions, but it gives wings to the greatest jewelry. We take a look at the zoo of vanities.

and were subsequently interpreted in countless different ways by Jeanne Toussaint, muse of Louis Cartier before becoming Jewelry Director of the Maison. No one was immune to the aura of this sleekly stylized creature, not even duchesses, since in 1948 Cartier created a panther enthroned on a 166.74-carat cabochon-cut emerald specifically for the Duchess of Windsor. Countless women followed suit, signaling the start of the panther magic.

Meisa (blue tit) bracelet by BOUCHERON

Laïka, le Husky ring by BOUCHERON

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Platinum necklace with an over 23-carat emeraldcut tricolor zoisite, along with marquise-cut round sapphires totaling more than five carats and diamonds of various cuts totaling more than 36 carats, from the 2018 TIFFANY Blue Book

“Golden Bird” brooch set with yellow sapphires, mandarin garnets, onyx and diamonds, from the VAN CLEEF & ARPELS “Quatre contes de Grimm” High Jewelry collection

BULGARI, Red gold Serpenti

Seduttori ‘secret’ watch from Bulgari (featuring a decorated cover concealing the dial). The snake’s head with its emerald eyes is set with brilliant-cut diamonds and a cabochoncut tourmaline. The red gold bracelet is set with brilliant-cut diamonds and tourmalines.

Meanwhile, another charismatic French woman was also dedicating her talent to a feline. Gabrielle Chanel’s “Sous le Signe du Lion” was a tribute to her star sign and to her beloved city of Venice, whose emblem features the king of the jungle. It also roars in passionate majesty on the eight models composing the latest collection from Chanel. Animal motifs in jewelry are as old as humanity Panthère de CARTIER brooch sold to the Duchess of Windsor in 1949

itself. Cleopatra already loved to adorn her wrists with snake-shaped jewelry symbolizing her power. Some see it as a talisman and others as a source of fear and dread : the snake stirs up passions, especially when embodied in a piece of jewelry. This motif is however one of the most popular sources of inspiration for great jewelers. Its suppleness, sinuous lines, strength and dynamic image represent a particular challenge for goldsmithing workshops. Rome-based jeweler Bulgari has perfected the art of crafting serpents. Its 1960s line of jewelry, named Serpenti, follows the Maison’s tradition of lending an abstract touch to naturalistic forms.

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The most recent creations are presented by fashion model Lily Aldridge, who instils both sensuality and glamour into the jeweler’s necklaces, rings and bracelets. These supple, stylized and multicoiling creations constitute the modern interpretation of a time-honored tradition also cultivated by the French jeweler Boucheron. The latter has considered the snake as its muse since its founding in 1858. Over time, other animals have joined the menagerie : Oulu, the owl, symbolizing wisdom ; Nara, the deer, epitomizing femininity ; Meisa, the blue tit ; as well as wolves and butterflies, to name but a few. A variety of summer birds flit across the pages of the 2018 Blue Book by American jeweler Tiffany. One particularly dazzling creation takes the shape of a long necklace featuring butterflies daintily Sautoir necklace with lion medallion in yellow gold, lapis lazuli and diamonds, from the CHANEL Fine Jewelry “Sous le Signe du Lion” collection.

fluttering around a sparkling dewdrop formed by a tricolor emerald-cut zoisite gemstone.

From the Lucky Animals collection by VAN CLEEF & ARPELS. Dog clip in yellow gold, white mother-of-pearl and onyx. Owl clip in yellow gold, white mother-of-pearl, white motherof-pearl and onyx.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Van Cleef & Arpels, meanwhile, has been drawn to the poetry of the animal world portrayed in the Grimm brothers’ tales. This year, four stories preside over the “Quatre Contes de Grimm” high jewYellow gold and platinum earrings with variously cut diamonds totaling eight carats, from the TIFFANY 2018 Blue Book collection.

elry collection, where wonderful creatures come to life thanks to the fire of precious stones. “The Three Feathers”, “The Twelve Dancing Princesses”, “The Golden Bird” and “Town Musicians of Bremen” have inspired goldsmiths and gemsetters to create precious and inimitably elegant jewelry. Other models just as likely to delight their owners are the charming clips from the Van Cleef & Arpels Lucky Animals collection. This Maison has consistently given life to a whole world of graceful animals, within which birds, rabbits, cats and dogs co-exist in peaceful harmony, living happily ever after in the jewelers’ bestiary.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 89

WOMEN IN WATCHMAKING BRICE LECHEVALIER

The item of jewelry you wear most often ? My Double Heart Beat bracelet. I designed it in 2010 to enhance our Ladies Automatic Double Heart Beat collection with an accessory. I have a special fondness for it because it was the first time I had designed a piece of jewelry. The most important cause in your opinion ? The “International Children Heart Foundation”, because it was the first association that we supported together with my husband Peter and it has a special place in my heart. Professor Novick made me understand how lucky I was to live in Europe and to be in good health. Your greatest professional accomplishment ? To build our brand from nothing with my husband. We have worked on it unremittingly for the past 30 years with a lot of passion and I am proud to see the progress we have made. Your greatest private accomplishment ? To have raised two wonderful children !

Aletta Stas

Co-founder and member of the Board of Directors, Frédérique Constant

The item of jewelry you wear most often ? A short necklace with a pendant in the shape of an eye protecting me from jealous or destructive gazes in order to neutralize the evil eye. It’s more symbolic than something I actually believe in. The most important cause in your opinion ? Children Action because the most important right for every human being is to have a childhood. Your greatest professional accomplishment ? To enjoy very close ties to my team and when I see a product that we have made being worn by a client. Your greatest private accomplishment ? It’s quite simple : I was born into a family that to my mind was the most united and supportive possible.

Chadi Nouri

Product DIrector, Audemars Piguet

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

The item of jewelry you wear most often ? A Love de Cartier bracelet that I bought myself at the same time as giving one to my daughter for her 18th birthday ! I felt I deserved it ! The most important cause in your opinion ? I have a lot of respect and admiration for all the organizations working to protect the planet and its environment. I would like to leave behind a sustainable world for my children and future generations. Your greatest professional accomplishment ? I have been with the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie since its creation in 2005. I have traveled widely to raise aware-ness of this Foundation which is devoted to promoting Fine Watchmaking all over the world and to bring as many brands as possible on board with our mission. To date, 44 Maisons support the FHH and I am proud of the image it has acquired as a benchmark thanks to a dedicated, loyal and effective team. Your greatest private accomplishment ? My family ! It’s a blended family that is very endearing and loving and that has supported me since I met my partner 15 years ago. His sons, my daughter, our son and his family in the broad sense of the term give me precious, warm and happy moments.

Fabienne Lupo

President of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie *

*which notably organizes the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva each January

The item of jewelry you wear most often ? My Joy solitaire which has a magnificent 1ct diamond surrounded by 26 other diamonds. It is part of the Bucherer collection, reminding me daily of what a privilege it is to work for such a wonderful Maison. It was given to me by my spouse and is a piece of jewelry that symbolizes great happiness. The most important cause in your opinion ? I am naturally very sensitive to questions regarding violence and injustice experienced by women, but I am touched by any form of commitment to supporting the dignity of individuals and the protection of our planet. Your greatest professional accomplishment ? My career overall to date is an accomplishment to my mind. Humanity and an awareness of every action is at the heart of my concerns, whether that involves working to enhance Switzerland’s reputation or to preserve our planet when I was the head of the International Conference Center in Geneva, or the renovation of our historic building on the Rue du Rhône which will be completed this winter after three years of work. Your greatest private accomplishment ? The balance that I have managed to create between my private and professional lives and I wish that for everyone. Today I am a fulfilled woman and mother. Living as part of a blended family for the past ten years, I have been faced with so many difficult moments that I have learned to respect the opinions of everyone involved and to let things go.

Sophie Dubuis

Director, Bucherer Geneva

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 91

Delphine Flavier

CEO, Montblanc Switzerland

The item of jewelry you wear most often ? My wedding ring is the only item of jewelry that I have never taken off. My job has taught me to appreciate new designs, to understand new trends as well as wear our innovations; and yet it is completely simple. It is a ring in yellow gold and it symbolizes the commitment I have made. I wanted it to be simple with an engraving on the inside that only we would know about. It is a reminder of my personal life and connects me to reality. The most important cause in your opinion ? UNICEF. As the mother of two children, I think protecting children in general is very important, as well as ensuring that they are fulfilled and educated. I have loved being able to pass on a taste for reading and discovery to them. This ability which may seem commonplace to some is often a privilege for many children in the world. Your greatest professional accomplishment ? Being able to fulfil a unique desire for a client who is a fine connoisseur. A writing instrument that pushes the boundaries of creativity and technique. Its creation simultaneously brings together all the expertise of our Artisan-Studio as well as the agility and tenacity of my teams in Switzerland, resulting in the successful completion of this project which took more than two years. A great human adventure. Your greatest private accomplishment ? The “simple” joy of my family. I didn’t create it but I contribute to it daily… It’s more about the synthesis of a multitude of small moments that are simple but filled with joy: my children’s school stories, their mischievous questions, our giggles… Happiness is often very bland in the eyes of others, don’t you think ?

The item of jewelry you wear most often ? A ring that is part of me, a gift from the father of my son. The most important cause in your opinion ? The growth of each individual’s sensitive awareness of their relationship to themselves, others and the world. Your greatest professional accomplishment ? The development of the Foundation of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, created ten years ago to secure the future of the GPHG. Your greatest private accomplishment ? My son, Victor.

Carine Maillard,

Director, Foundation of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

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Le Richemond Geneva

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MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 93

ELEGANCE GAGA MILANO FADI JAMIL

Fancy edition THERE MIGHT BE AN ELEMENT OF PLAYFULNESS, but this is no joking matter. Because the rules of elegance are not a closed canon, but are instead an intriguing and entertaining filed of play for the man that is aware of the fact that style is never uniformity, and that refinement requires rules but also an «extra» component of imagination, and, moreover, that gravity is just that only if one is unable to take it on with irony. Above all, personality is expressed through details. In the thirties it was the gagà who succeeded in blending these even handed positions, and putting them together in a formula of style they were truly extravagant people who left their mark on an era. It is this ability to make itself unique within a criterion of measured rigour that has inspired GaGà Milano’s surprising timekeeping device: with the addition of a strap it has transported the unfaded charm of the pocket watch on to the wrist of the contemporary gagà. Bringing to life collections of watches that defy rules, while merging classical times with futuristic visions, in both design and mechanical terms. With a touch of preciousness that hark back to the brand’s DNA, diamonds have been used to give a unique force of impact to the provocatively lavish revisitation of one of the historic models of the Brand, the iconic Manuale 48. It is a watch that comes with a generously sized 18-carat gold case, driven by a refined Swiss-made manual movement, that can be admired through the sapphire glass caseback. 

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But above all it is easily noticeable - a mannerism that is very much to the liking of a gagà that is convinced of his own style - because of the medley of multi-coloured diamonds that have earned it the name Fancy Edition. It is produced in a limited edition of just 29 pieces, where the rainbow of sapphires and diamonds - totalling 17 carats - imposes its precious colours on the pavé of brown diamonds of the dial, in nuance with the strap, which is incredibly made of caoutchouc. It is also thanks to this skilful mix between the artistic interpretation of the forms and the incredible focus on technological innovation, that the company has reached an important and prestigious objective in only a few years: the opening of its own operational premises in Switzerland Manufacture GaGà - which is involved in the research, design, quality control and the production of mechanical watches. Genuine objects of desire, that are made by hand by master goldsmiths and watchmakers between Italy and Switzerland.

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FOCUS GRAFF

MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON

Jewelry watch Yellow gold case, dial and bracelet set with 60 Fancy Vivid yellow diamonds totaling 25 carats FUNCTIONS : hours and minutes MOVEMENT : quartz ONE-OF-A-KIND MODEL

Blossoming jewelry Laurence Graff is a great lover – of precious gems, naturally, but also and above all of colored stones that have over the years become a signature of his London-based brand. This spring, with daffodils blooming in gardens everywhere, Graff unveils a collection of jewelry watches whose centerpiece blossoms under the intense glow of yellow Fancy Vivid diamonds. Entirely carpeted with 60 diamonds totally over 25 carats, this jewelry watch is a true feat. First of all, because it is extremely difficult to bring together so many diamonds of such large size ; and also because their aesthetically pleasing and almost invisible setting reveals impressive artisanal virtuosity. In order to preserve the supple feel of the bracelet, dedicated development work on the links was conducted in Graff’s technical department. Another element illustrating the delicacy of the work and the attention to detail is the crown that almost vanishes beneath the precious sparkle of diamonds.

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FOCUS HERMES

MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON

Galop d’Hermès CASE : rose gold or stainless steel, polished or set with

150 diamonds SIZE : 40.8mm x 26mm MOVEMENT : quartz FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : finely grained silver-toned

with opaline center CASEBACK : solid STRAP : Barenia calfskin, smooth alligator leather or matt alligator leather

Galloping ahead Stepping, trotting, cantering… and now at a gallop, as Hermès reinvents the pace of time. Created by designer Ini Archibong, Hermès’ new women’s collection draws inspiration from the many harnessing objects gathered within the Conservatoire des créations Hermès. Bits, harnesses, reins, straps, saddles ? The designer decided to focus on the specific shape of the stirrup and transform it into a watch featuring an original and refined shape. Its silhouette features a bold combination of a stirrup and an arch, curved like a smooth pebble, punctuated only by a crown at 6 o’clock. Interpreted in rose gold or steel versions, the case can also opt for a precious touch highlighted by a fine setting of 150 diamonds. On the dial side, the Arabic numerals display an original font with, as a subtle stylistic mise en abyme, a figure 8 featuring an upper section shaped like an inverted stirrup. An additional invitation to immerse yourself in the equestrian world of Hermès. Naturally at a gallop and with a blend of elegance, discretion and singularity.

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FOCUS

AUDEMARS PIGUET MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON

Royal Oak Frosted Gold Carolina Bucci Limited Edition CASE : frosted yellow gold DIAMETER: 37mm MOVEMENT : mechanical

self-winding, 60h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : mirror-finish CASEBACK : transparent sapphire crystal BRACELET : frosted yellow gold WATER RESISTANCE : 50m LIMITED EDITION OF 300

Reflecting

perfection Two years after celebrating the 40th anniversary of the Royal Oak in feminine version, Audemars Piguet once again invited Carolina Bucci to work on a special model revealing an unusual face of the brand’s most famous collection. In this 300-piece limited edition unveiled this spring, the Italian designer dares to shake up one of the signature codes of the Royal Oak. The famous “Tapisserie” dial is replaced by a fascinating mirror dial. Creating a striking contrast effect with the brilliance of the case and bracelet in yellow frosted gold, the dial plays with the light and reflects the environment of the woman wearing the watch. This represents a first in the collections of Audemars Piguet which is introducing a wealth of new models this year with the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Carolina Bucci Limited Edition. Applying the frosted gold technique to yellow gold in order to achieve that very special sparkle resembling diamond dust is also a first. What’s more, it is the first time at Audemars Piguet that a watch bears the name of the person who designed it – literally engraved on the caseback. A signature that is also aesthetically reflected in the presentation box of the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Caroline Bucci Limited Edition, which bears the Audemars Piguet logo in frosted gold.

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FOCUS EBEL

MICHÈLE BRUNNER

Sport Classic Lady Automatic CASE : stainless steel and 5N 18K red gold, polished/brushed finish,

bezel set with 47 diamonds (VS, 0.3055ct), water-resistant to 50m, sapphire caseback SIZE : 29mm in diameter, 8.25mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding ETA 2000, 40h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, central seconds, date at 3 o’clock DIAL : white mother-of-pearl, 4N red gold-plated Roman numerals, 8 diamonds (0.052ct) BRACELET : brushed stainless steel, 5N red gold wave links with PVD finish, jewelry clasp or folding clasp

The origins of

casual chic Enter a model from an age unknown to those below the age of 40, apart from watch enthusiasts for whom 1977 spells the arrival on the market of one of the very first “casual chic” watches : the Sport Classic by EBEL. It became an immediate success and earned the brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds spectacular renown and equally impressive growth. It is worth recalling that EBEL had been co-founded by a woman, Alice Lévy, and that it is to her that we owe the femininity and elegance which still define the creations of the Maison. Among them is the Sport Classic, which is returning this year with new models – for the first time since 1977. The signature codes that have forged its success are all there : the elegant and comfortably supple integrated bracelet with wavetype links ; the hexagonal case with flowing curves ; and the five screws on the bezel that lend a sporty touch to the watch. Modernity has also had its say, with accentuated bracelet undulations ; a new exclusive jewelry clasp combining beauty with security ; and a more contemporary font for the Roman numerals. White mother-of-pearl, diamond hour-markers and the red gold of the gemset bezel striking a pleasing contrast with brushed steel all contribute to the elegance of the watch, while its mechanical self-winding movement ensures its horological quality.

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FOCUS GRAFF

MARIE LE BERRE

Graff Floral CASE : diamond-set white gold,

water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 37mm MOVEMENT : self-winding, 46h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : mother-of-pearl, diamonds, hand-enameled and painted flowers, three rotating flowers STRAP : satin, pin buckle

Blossoming garden The particularly graceful new Graff Floral watches feature bouquets inspired by the lush gardens of the Delaire Graff vineyard estate owned by the Graff family in South Africa. Working entirely by hand, the artisans craft the petals from white gold and coat them with several layers of enamel before enhancing them with painted finishes. Each dial represents a unique work of art and calls for over 50 hours of craftsmanship. The result is all the more charming in that three of the flowers, respectively positioned at 1, 8 and 10 o’clock, perform a fascinating choreography by perpetually spinning on their axis. The collection comprises four models representing the various personalities of today’s woman: bouquets in shades of blue, pink, purple and white rest gently on matching mother-of-pearl backgrounds and are swept over by leaf-style hands harmonized with the splendid tableaus thus created. Graff Floral watches also give pride of place to diamonds, the jeweler’s specialty, which sparkle in abundance on the dials, bezels, casebands, lugs and crowns. These timepieces can be ideally paired with the Maison’s many floral-inspired jewelry creations.

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FOCUS

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER MICHÈLE BRUNNER

Anthem to rubies Almost a century went by between the 1854 creation of the Gübelin family business reputed for its jewelry and gemology expertise, as well as for its luxury watch assortment, and the birth year of Michel Parmigiani – founder of the eponymous brand – which is celebrated in the Tonda 1950. The two Swiss Maisons chose to work in close cooperation on the new Tonda 1950 Gübelin model, centered around rubies. Inspiration was drawn not only from the deep red shade of what the Ancients regarded as the most precious of all stones, but also from its inner beauty and its origins. Based on a microphotograph reveal-

Tonda 1950 Gübelin

ing the structure of a ruby, formed from a drop of basaltic magma imprisoned

CASE : pink gold, bezel set with 84 rubies, water-

in ruby crystal during its growth, the designers of the two Maisons imagined

resistant to 30m, sapphire back SIZE : 39mm, 8.4mm thickness MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding PF702, 48h power reserve, 21,600 vph, Côtes de Genève, red lacquered oscillating weight FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : rosy mother-of-pearl, 18K pink gold applied hour-markers, 1 ruby, bezel set with diamonds STRAP : Hermès red alligator leather strap, pink gold pin buckle 28-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

a set of circles on the watch dial. The flamboyant ruby is artistically offset at 4 o’clock and embedded within gold and diamond rings. The cut-out Delta-type hands ensure a clear view of the diamonds, while the Gübelin logo highlights the watch’s kinship with its “Glowing Ember” jewelry collection. The back of the watch provides an equally beautiful view of the ultra-thin Manufacture Parmigiani Fleurier 702 caliber, with its beveled bridges, its Côtes de Genève decorative motif, and its ruby red-lacquered oscillating weight.

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FOCUS HERMÈS MARIE LE BERRE

Hide and seek Hermès is accustomed to creating playful watches serving as companions to those who wear them, liable to arouse emotions, open up interludes and spaces for recreation. With the Heure H Double Jeu watch, time engages in a game of hide-and-seek. The H-shaped case – standing for both Hermès and Horology – created in 1996 by in-house designer Philippe Mouquet – is either highlighted or partially concealed. In the version featuring “vertical setting” on either side of the dial, it fully reveals its nature as a capital letter ; while

Heure H Double Jeu CASE : white or black lacquered stainless steel, set with

122 diamonds in the “vertical set” version ; and with 93 in the “horizontal set” version, water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 21 x 21mm MOVEMENT : quartz FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : white or black lacquered, set with 138 versions in the “horizontal set” version STRAP : white grained calfskin or black Barenia calfskin, stainless steel pin buckle

the version graced with “horizontal setting” on its entire half vanishes behind a screen of diamonds. The Heure H Double Jeu also works the concept of opposites, with a choice of white or black for the bezel-dial-strap ensemble of each watch. That makes four interpretations of this new ‘player’, not to mention the strap-change game available on all Heure H watches. The wearer can thus decide whether to adopt a standard-width model, or the new flared option that is 3mm broader at the lugs and thus visually extends the watch, while featuring an H-shaped loop that accentuates its identity.

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FOCUS

JAQUET DROZ MICHÈLE BRUNNER

Mechanical bloom At Jaquet Droz, the long-running history of the Maison in the realm of automatons is not confined to archives and museums. Jaquet Droz continues to create mechanical animations, but on a different scale. So what’s that got to do with this exquisitely feminine Lady 8 Flower watch ? A mere press on the 2 o’clock button causes a red gold lotus flower to bloom in the upper part of the watch – corresponding to the upper loop of the figure 8 featured on the dial. And the

Lady 8 Flower CASE : 18K red gold set with 114 diamond (1.40ct), water-

resistant to 30m, sapphire caseback. 18K red gold petals, briolette-cut diamond (0.24ct) SIZE : 35mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Jaquet Droz 615 caliber, 21,600 vph, 38h power reserve, with mechanical automaton movement driving the opening of the flower FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : domed, relief-engraved white mother-of-pearl, 18K red gold inner bezel ring set with 88 diamonds (0.17ct), hands and nameplate in 18K red gold STRAP : rolled-edge hand-crafted white alligator leather, 18K red gold folding clasp set with 47 diamonds (0.47ct) EIGHT-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

animation doesn’t stop there, since the petals reveal in parting a diamond that spins in one direction when the flower opens, and in the other when it closes, after about eight seconds – yet another nod to the brand’s cherished symbolic number. Alongside this automaton part of the watch, the ‘remainder’ of this creation is a vision of white mother-of-pearl, red gold and diamonds. The dial is carpeted with iridescent white flowers relief-engraved by hand, rimmed by a slim inner bezel ring set with 88 diamonds and a bezel adorned with 114 diamonds. This floral theme would doubtless have appealed to Pierre Jaquet-Droz, creator of the famous automatons in an age when naturalism was all the rage. The finishing touch is set by a white alligator leather strap and the last mention of the figure 8 refers to the limited edition. There is also a Grand Feu blue enamel dial version of this Lady 8 Flower.

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FOCUS

PATEK PHILIPPE MARIE LE BERRE

In automatic mode Almost two decades after its launch, the Patek Philippe Twenty~4® collection designed to accompany women 24/7, welcomes its first self-winding movement in a round case. Graced with bezels hand-set in a two-row configuration of offset stones known as ‘Dentelle’ (lace-setting), they make a perfect match with the line’s typical bracelets thanks to a carefully designed subtle feature : the design of the central links extends all the way to the edge of the dials, at 6 and 12 o’clock. The time is displayed with great clarity by round-ended batontype hands and applied Arabic numerals, all luminescent, against different col-

Twenty~4® Automatic CASE : stainless steel or diamond-set rose gold,

sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 36MM MOVEMENT : self-winding, Caliber 324 S C FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : sunburst blue or gray for the stainless steel versions, sunburst chocolate brown or silvery Shantung for the rose gold versions BRACELET : stainless steel, rose gold or gemset rose gold, patented folding clasp

ored backgrounds graced with a traditional sunburst finish or an innovative double vertical and horizontal satin finish reminiscent of the texture of wild Shantung silk. The Twenty~4® Automatic models are naturally driven by movements entirely compliant with the Patek Philippe Seal quality criteria, which can be admired through sapphire crystal casebacks. Unveiled in October 2018 at an international event organized in Milan, they come in five versions : two in stainless steel and two in rose gold with gemset bezel, along with an even more sophisticated rose gold model adorned with diamonds on the bezel, bracelet and crown.

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FOCUS

RICHARD MILLE MARIE LE BERRE

RM 71-01 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman CASE : white or red gold, snow-set and/or grain-set

with black sapphires and diamonds, sapphire crystal caseback, water-resistant to 50m SIZE : 52.2 x 34.4mm MOVEMENT : opentworked self-winding Caliber CRMT1 self-winding movement, 50h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, tourbillon DIAL : red gold enhanced with mother-of-pearl, onyx and diamonds STRAP : black or white alligator with black Velcro® closure on ostrich skin or embossed grained leather 10-PIECE LIMITED EDITIONS, FIVE OF EACH VERSION

Distinctive amulets With the RM 71-01 Talisman, Richard Mille introduces a standout ultra-feminine collection. On the design side, talismans inspired by Art Deco and Primitive Arts form lines that are reflected in the movement structure and the case decoration, composing remarkable harmonious and complex architectural works. The range includes no less than ten combinations that are cleverly diverse not only in color, but also in terms of shape, volume and perspective. They combine gold, motherof-pearl, onyx and precious stones with the exclusive character of haute couture and High Jewellery. As one has come to expect from Richard Mille, the technical side of the watch is entirely worthy of its standout exterior, since the RM 71-01 Talisman watches are equipped with a movement specially designed with them in mind. This is the first self-winding tourbillon caliber to feature a particularly compact, slim and light openworked construction, which nonetheless meets the brand’s specific demands in terms of performance and resistance. The tourbillon mechanism plays a starring role, appearing to be literally ‘crowned’ by various talismans. Within this extremely contemporary collection, the dial and case engage in an original dialogue opening up whole new horizons for femininity according to Richard Mille.

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Hublot BIG BANG

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HUBLOT SPIRIT OF BIG BANG

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HUBLOT BIG BANG ONE-CLICK 39MM SAPPHIRE BLUE MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 111

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HUBLOT BIG BANG ONE-CLICK 39MM SAPPHIRE PINK MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 113

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HUBLOT BIG BANG ONE-CLICK 39MM SAPPHIRE RAINBOW MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 115

CRAFTS MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON

Photosâ&#x20AC;&#x2030;: Edouard Haegi

at home

WITH ANITA PORCHET DAUGHTER OF FIRE

116 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Using the cloisonné enamel technique, Anita Porchet gives life to the caseback of the one-of-akind Wild Horses model by Patek Philippe.

When heat and glass meet, the result is incredible enameled dials. An encounter at the workshop of an enamelist endowed with unique sensitivity.

he shelves are stacked with hundreds of bottles filled with blocks of colored glass. Memphis blue, Alexandra blue, opaline red, otter gray, vampire gray, rosehip pink

are names dotted around like the many hues on Anita Porchet’s palette. The desk vanishes beneath wooden boxes containing ancient enamels ground to powder, colors spread out on tiny swatches, unbelievably fine brushes, an agate mortar. At the back of the room is an oven, and through the French doors are endless fields unrolling their green carpet.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 117

In the total silence in her workshop, enamelist Anita Porchet

ulous miniature paintings, reproductions of works by old masters

surrounds herself with the bare minimum. No machines. No

or original creations of this craftswoman herself. Gracious motifs

computer. Barely a binocular microscope through which the eye

revealed in champlevé when the heat does its work on a gold plaque

guides her hand in deft moves learned from the greatest expo-

whose cavities are filled with layers of enamel fired in the kiln.

nents of this craft, Elisabeth Juillerat and Suzanne Rohr. They

Anita Porchet also does paillonné (spangling) which involves apply-

passed on the mastery of glass to her and shared the secrets of

ing microscopic specks of gold leaf to the enamel. Not to mention

fire. Sensitivity and experience did the rest. As the gifted artisan

cloisonné, a technique that allows the motif to be outlined with

points out : “That is what is known as expertise, and it takes time

a gold wire finer than a hair’s breadth. The enamels are first of

to acquire.”

all crushed by hand in an agate mortar before coating the dials

The very first watches enameled by Anita Porchet date back

and firing them in the kiln. “Over the years, I have learned to

to the mid-1990s. At Patek Philippe’s request, Anita Porchet pro-

hear when the grain is fine enough” explains Anita Porchet. “The

duced her first dials. The most prestigious Maisons followed. Her

same thing applies to the kiln. Each firing lasts between 30 and

hand became more proficient, her eye sharper, enabling her over

90 seconds at a temperature of 800°.” Only experience allows one

the years to create a unique signature. From the meeting of fire

to time the perfect duration. A question of time and experience.

and opaque glass reduced to powder and mixed with oil arose fab-

The purest skill.

118 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

EDITOR’S PICKS

White AS SNOW

Leonid Ikan/stock.adobe.com

1. ALPINA / Ladies Horological Smartwatch 2. HUBLOT / Big Bang Zermatt 3. ARTYA / Snowflake Full Set Megève Edition (1/1) 4. CARL F. BUCHERER / Patravi ScubaTec Lady 5. BREGUET / Classique Automatic Moonphase Lady 9088 6. DIOR / La D de Dior Satine 36 mm

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 119

PORTFOLIO CHOPARD HAUTE JOAILLERIE

hopardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Geneva headquarters are home to the Haute Joaillerie atelier where the Maison designs, creates and assembles exceptional jewelry year-round. These spectacular compositions set the stage

for extremely rare, premium-quality gems reflecting Chopardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creativiity and savoir faire. The High Jewelry creations featured here are available in Switzerland this winter, along with other equally colorful and dazzling oneof-a-kind models.

BRACELET AND EARRINGS STUNNING BRACELET AND EARRINGS SET WITH EMERALDS, SAPPHIRES AND DIAMONDS

PORTFOLIO CHOPARD HAUTE JOAILLERIE

NECKLACE A FASCINATING TANZANITE, LAPIS LAZULI AND DIAMOND NECKLACE

NECKLACE A MAGNIFICENT NECKLACE SET WITH 206 CARATS OF CABOCHON-CUT EMERALDS WITH DIAMONDS

PORTFOLIO CHOPARD HAUTE JOAILLERIE

EARRINGS A FABULOUS PAIR OF EARRINGS SET WITH TWO FANCY INTENSE YELLOW DIAMONDS TOTALING 35 CARATS WITHIN A DIAMOND SURROUND

EARRINGS AN EXQUISITE PAIR OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND EARRINGS

PORTFOLIO CHOPARD HAUTE JOAILLERIE

CHOPARD WATCH A GORGEOUS SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND LADIESâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; WATCH

EARRINGS A DAINTY PAIR OF BRIOLETTE RUBY EARRINGS

CRAFTS BRICE LECHEVALIER

THE PHOTOGRAPHER

of time 128 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

wiss photographer Karine Bauzin has produced the official portraits of some of the greatest watch industry executives, but her work goes far beyond this. Whether architecture, communication, watchmaking,

children’s portraits or snapshots capturing slices of life, her photographs appear

Karine Bauzin crisscrossed the world asking : what time is it ?

to dialogue with her interpretation of the moment. In the wake of her meeting with photographer Raymond Depardon, she also regularly works with the most important international publications and is occasionally involved in social reportage. During her recent journey around the world, she developed a thread related to the tradition of Swiss watch exports, asking people she took pictures of in the countries through which she travelled : “What time is it ?” Karine has entrusted our publishing company, GMT Publishing, with promoting this ongoing project (as she continues her travels). In the first phase, her shots featuring watch owners all over the world are staged to announce the creation of our international club for watch owners, which will be launched in 2019. The Fine Watch Club will host its members in a Geneva gallery, of which the opening next spring will provide an opportunity to exhibit this series of themed portraits. Our lady readers wishing to join can register on fine-watch-club.com.

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Jet-Set FADI JAMIL

GENEVA Where City Breaks and Mountain Adventures Meet

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ubai, 6 February 2019 - No other city offers what Geneva has. A trip to this beautiful city will be full of unforgettable experiences, be it cruising across a lake, skiing in the mountains, strolling in the beautiful historical alleys or

simply relaxing in a spa after a long day of shopping. If you’re looking for action-packed vacations, romantic holidays or secluded breaks, Geneva has it all. Thanks to the city’s location at the foot of the mountains, Geneva earns its title as the ‘Getaway to the Alps’. Whether you enjoy the active city life, prefer spending your winter vacation on the ski slopes, or you want a combination of both; Geneva should be your next destination this winter. In just one day, you can enjoy your favourite dish at the city centre then get an adrenaline rush on the ski slopes, before heading back to the city to soak in its nightlife. Famous ski resorts are easily accessible from Geneva including Courchevel, Megève, Zermatt, Chamonix and Gstaad, which are only a short distance away. With many options available, you’ll find all kinds of slopes waiting for you, whether you’re a beginner, experienced skier or a proven freestyler. From Geneva, you can reach your favourite ski resort conveniently by train, bus, shuttle or while enjoying a scenic drive in your private rental. Winter in Geneva brings a unique charm to the city, as it is the time where many indoor activities take place. Follow a private watch tour and immerse yourself in 500 years of history of luxury horology. You can also learn to assemble your own swiss watch and keep it as a special souvenir. Another option would be to attend a chocolate workshop and discover the secrets of the famous Swiss chocolate, or to enrol in a Fondue cooking class and learn how to make your own melting pot of flavours and aromas. However, lively experiences are not limited to indoor activities only, as when the snow hits there is much excitement waiting for everyone. Sledding is just one of the options, In Geneva, there are several places where revellers can enjoy a ski resort-type setting and hit the snowy slopes without leaving the city centre. Also, you shouldn’t miss out on visiting one of the city’s famous landmarks - the Jet d’Eau, a large 140 metres high fountain that rises from Geneva Lake. Situated within walking distance from the fountain is another famous attraction, the Flower Clock which boasts a 2.5-metre second hand decorated with 6,500 flowers and shrubs that change with the seasons. When it snows, it becomes an even more magical and enchanting sight to behold.

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After enjoying the wonderful time in Geneva, you can’t leave without taking a part of the city with you. There are plenty of places where you’ll be able to snap up some fantastic souvenirs to refresh your memory and treat your friends and family. Also, the city’s endless shopping choices will leave you with anything but empty hands. Make your way down the Rue du Rhône, where all the luxury fashion, watch and jewellery boutiques are concentrated, rivalling the luxury shopping streets of Paris and London. And for more offbeat, stylish and independent shops, visit the old town, which has a few interesting fashion, jewellery and art stores, amidst good restaurants and historical sites.

For additional information or reservations visit www.tca.me/beau-rivage or send an email to sales@tca.me or call +971 4 443 9554

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SPA FADI JAMIL

guerlain spa AT ONE&ONLY THE PALM INTRODUCES NEW INDULGENT SPA EXPERIENCES

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ubai, United Arab Emirates, April 2019 - Guerlain Spa at One&Only The Palm in Dubai has introduced eight new treatments to its extensive selection of indulgent spa experiences, offering guests a greater choice of results-driven

wellbeing. Combining centuries of expertise in the quest for beautiful skin, the Parisian beauty house founded in 1828, harnesses the innate power of nature with a commitment to providing customised therapies that create lasting beauty and restore the body’s vibrancy. The only Guerlain Spa in the United Arab Emirates, the spa at One&Only The Palm is a secluded retreat accessed through a Moorish-inspired courtyard with intricate stone archways and serene water-edged walkways. Offering exclusive treatments designed by the House of Guerlain for One&Only The Palm, the spa features individual suites, a couples’ suite, a private Hammam suite, as well as a relaxation room, private swimming pool and inviting lounge. The newly expanded treatment range includes two luxurious ‘Orchidée Impériale Black’ experiences, a onehour treatment and a series of four sessions, which use the extraordinary power of the Black Orchid originating from Peru. This revolutionary, anti-ageing treatment combines Blackimmune™ technology by Guerlain that impacts 95% of cells involved in the skin’s self-defence system with cuttingedge aesthetic manual techniques to restore the skin’s firmness, density, elasticity and tightness. Guests can now experience the restorative power of the Abeille Royale range, derived from pure Black Bee honey and precious royal jelly, with ‘Abeille Royale Honey Repair’. An advanced, technical treatment that combines precise and personalised movements with products containing particularly powerful active ingredients. For an immediate face-glowing effect, Guerlain Spa has introduced ‘Eye Focus’, a 45-minute treatment dedicated to the delicate eye contour area providing a natural lifting effect and widening the eyes, while ‘Skin Light’, delivers an immediate radiance boost, utilising the Orchidée Impériale range which promises to reveal the skin’s natural light.

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Newly introduced firming and age-defying beauty massage

sensation of wellbeing. The ‘Body Suppleness Harmony Ritual’

‘Body Lift’ delivers an instant youth boost, restoring radiance

helps to restore flexibility to ligaments and tendons as well as

and lift to the face and body. The ‘Beauty Lift’ massage focuses

rebalancing the body and mind for complete serenity.

on facial muscles specifically targeting expression wrinkles,

For the ultimate pampering in privacy, Guerlain Spa at

smoothing lines and activating microcirculation. ‘Body Lift’ is a

One&Only The Palm has a dedicated ‘Ladies’ Morning’ between

deep back massage, followed by a series of targeted smoothing

10am and 1pm from Sunday to Wednesday, which includes a

and fluid movements that help sculpt the body and firm the

special offer of 15% savings on all treatments.

silhouette. The ‘Feminine Beauty Ritual’ relieves minor pain and aches delivering a lasting soothing effect and a wonderful

For reservations or more information, please visit oneandonlyresorts.com

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CALIBER RM 07-01