GMT MIDDLE EAST EDITION 24 - JUNE 2019 by GMT MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Interview Brice Lechevalier

Founder of the Fine Watch Club

TECHNIQUE The demands of transparency WATCH MY NAME To what does the name Nautilus actually refer ?

Fortis PC-7 TEAM Aeromaster Chronograph

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EDITORIAL SUMMER 2019

ets go back to basics. A watch consists of a design, dial, some hands, a case and a movement. There’s nothing special there. The success of a watch comes from a subtle and magical balance between all these elements, with a pinch of history, a sprinkle of marketing and a generous amount of opinion. In a nutshell, you either like or you don’t. and since there is no accounting for taste or color preferences, everyone can find something they like in the small world of watches. But the movements - or calibers - have not always got the attention they deserved. Yet they are the beating heart of the watch. There are of course the famous grand complications, the kings of complexity, that break records and impress us with their innovation and their astronomical price tags. They are the horological equivalent of super cars to the general public. We take a look at them and talk about them, but few of us will never have the chance of wearing them. I have always preferred “democratic” watchmaking, where the greatest number of people can enjoy the beauty and functionality of a product. But there is a risk of falling into the category of watches with industrial movements that are too simple, too easy and not expensive enough. They are the junk food of the watch industry: mass produced products without a soul. They do the job, but don’t give you any pleasure. C

Until next issue,

FADI JAMIL I Publisher, Editor-in-Chief

CMY

GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com Head of Creative / Graphic Designer: KYLE EVIDENTE | creative@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com

GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma © Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

GMT MIDDLE EAST NO24 | SUMMER 2019

CONTENTS SUMMER 2019

30 EDITORIAL 32 CONTENTS 36 CONTRIBUTORS

BUSINESS 38 HOT NEWS 76 INTERVIEW | Brice Lechevalier | Founder of the Fine Watch Club 96 TECHNIQUE | The demands of transparency

112 LIFESTYLE

NEW RELEASES

74 EDITOR’S PICK

58 COVER STORY

The Color of time

Fortis PC-7 TEAM Aeromaster Edition

80 FINE WATCH CLUB 74 EDITOR’S PICK

88 WATCH MY NAME

Sporting spirit

To what does the name Nautilus actually refer?

102 HISTORY

88 TOURBILLON

Breguet Classique 5177 Email Bleu Grand Feu

Récital 27

104 PHOTOSHOOT 112 ZOOM

106 PANERAI

Omega’s Golden Moments

Panerai’s Exceptional SIHH 2019 Collection Showcased at Immersione Event

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

CONTENTS SUMMER 2019

66 Focus

Close-up view of 6 new releases

66 MOVADO Always in motion

67 MOVADO Master of the minimalist aesthetic

68 EBEL A modern, polished and minimalistic

69 EBEL An iconic classic in fashion-forward green

70 CONCORD The concord mariner has a new, sleeker cousin

71 CONCORD Beauty has a light touch

68 34

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

D1MILANO.COM

Contributors Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor, Brice Lechevalier, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.

Cloé Mugny

Marie De Pimodan

Christophe Persoz

A member of the GMT Publishing team, this translator by training contributes to the Editor’s Picks column.

An expert watch journalist who presents new models as well as handling the Craftsmanship column.

This experienced watchmaker analyzes a model that he wears for an entire week before delivering his technical and aesthetic verdict.

Brice Lechevalier

Paul O’Neil

Michèle Brunner

David Chokron

Involved in all aspects of the magazine, the founder seeks to convey a sense of pleasure to readers through the various articles.

The editor-in-chief of WorldTempus. com shares his insights on our feature articles based on his website’s coverage of the subject.

An experienced member of the GMT Publishing editorial team, she reports on brand events and products.

An expert watch journalist, he provides content for our Tech Insights column as well as presenting the latest new models.

Marie Le Berre

Edouard Haegi

Serge Panczuk

Pierre Millasson

A specialized watch journalist, she offers themed selections of new models.

Edouard Haegi is our inhouse photographer/videomaker, who also handles the Watch Photo Awards.

This California-based collector is also a keen traveler who shares his extremely personal vision of what a watch is and what it “tells” us.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

This watch industry professional analyzes the auction world in the Collectors’ Corner column.

D1MILANO.COM

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Bremont releases limited edition

Jaguar D-Type celebrating the Triple Le Mans Legend JAGUAR CLASSIC recently re-started production of the iconic

housed in a 43mm satin finished three-piece Trip-Tick case.

1950s D-type race car in Coventry, 64 years after the first

The large exhibition sapphire case back shows the beautifully

examples were built. In 1955 Jaguar planned to build 100

finished mechanical BE-50AE movement and the very intricate

D-types but only 75 were completed; Jaguar Classic is now

Jaguar steering wheel inspired rotor. The watch crown has the

fulfilling the company’s original ambition by creating 25 all-

original Dunlop tyre tread etched into it and the heritage Jaguar

new, period-correct sports cars.

logo finished beautifully in enamel on its end.

The triple Le Mans-winning D-type is the third Continuation

strap. Ian Callum, Design Director for Jaguar and British design

six missing Lightweight E-types completed in 2014-15 and nine

icon, will be signing the packaging for this exclusive model. Callum

XKSSs built in 2017-18.

remarks, “The Bremont D-Type chronograph is inspired by one of

To celebrate this British racing icon, and as an extension of

the most dramatic and beautiful sports cars in history – a sports car

Bremont’s previous collaborations with Jaguar (the first of which

which is a true embodiment of Jaguar’s racing heritage. As exciting

dates back to 2014), the British watch manufacturer has designed

today as it was in the 1950s, its story continues to be told and

a mechanical chronograph that sublimely transports the wearer

this iconic car deserves a timepiece to match. The Limited Edition

back to this golden era of motorsport.

perfectly captures the D-Type’s mechanical beauty and subtly nods

Bremont Co-Founder Nick English said, “The Jaguar D-type is a

to the cars’ performance – a true driver’s companion”.

truly iconic competition car that is just as remarkable today as it

The D-type, which won the Le Mans 24 Hours race three times

was when it was first produced. It has an outstanding record in

between 1955 and 1957, was powered by the six-cylinder XK engine.

the world’s toughest motor races due to its robust engineering,

Jaguar Classic experts’ painstaking research, with exclusive access

something we champion at Bremont. Continuing its legacy by

to original Jaguar engineering drawings and records, ensures each

completing the original planned production is very special indeed

new D-type will be built to the authentic specifications laid down

and we’re delighted to be celebrating with the launch of our new

by competitions manager Lofty England and his engineers in the

Limited Edition”.

1950s. D-type clients can choose either 1955-specification Shortnose

As the D-type was classified as a 300 bhp car, the new

The Bremont D-type watch will be set on a blue racing calf-skin

vehicle to come out of the Jaguar Classic workshops, following

or 1956-spec Longnose bodywork. Although sharing many of

timepiece will be limited to only 300 pieces. The blue dialled

the mechanical components of its C-type predecessor, the D-type

bi-compax chronograph (inspired by pantones of the Ecurie

had an innovative monocoque construction and state-of-the-art

Ecosse Jaguar race team) has brushed nickel sub-dials and a

aerodynamics designed by aeronautical engineers, including its

Tachymeter dial ring with its chronometer rated movement

vertical fin or stabilizer.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Transcontinental by Louis Moinet

An exclusive pre-order for the 150 years of the first transcontinental railroad in history 150 YEARS AGO, A LEGEND WAS BORN… The idea of building a railroad spanning the North American continent from one ocean to the other dates back to the early

at a rate of forty miles per month. The project was finally completed on May 10, 1869. After

nineteenth century. It was a complex undertaking, with a

6 years’ effort, marked by a whole host of unexpected and

huge continent to be crossed amidst an acute lack of technical

varied challenges on a daily basis, the first transcontinental

and financial resources. Initially, President Thomas Jefferson

railroad was ready! The two companies’ tracks met at

convinced Congress to allocate $2,500 to Lewis and Clark,

Promontory Summit, Utah, linking Sacramento, California

who organised the first expedition across the United States

to Omaha, Nebraska. A huge number of bridges and tunnels

from east to west. They faced all kinds of danger – and took

were required, in addition to 1,766 miles of track to connect

two years (1804-1806) to complete their mission. And so the

with the existing railroad network in the east of the USA, thus

adventure began…

linking the Pacific coast and the Atlantic coast.

Years of reconnaissance were then needed to identify

This feat revolutionised the nation’s economy,

the route: through the Sierra Nevada mountains, avoiding

demographics, and mindset. The age of covered wagons

Death Valley, bypassing the Yosemite Peaks – as well as all

travelling along perilous trails was over; modern-day, powerful

the canyons and rapids of the Missouri. In 1862, even as the

America had arrived!

American Civil War raged, President Abraham Lincoln’s vision

Once work had started, each company drew nearer to the other

From now until September 10, 2019, it is being made available to the

involved unifying and reviving the country. He promulgated

descendants of the transcontinental pioneers – as well as to forerunners and

the Pacific Railroad Act, allocating the construction of the

innovators everywhere. All of them will recognise the same unique values that

railway to the Union Pacific and Central Pacific companies.

enable them to successfully complete their own human endeavours.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Le Richemond Geneva

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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Happy Love

Love celebrated by Happy Sport IF EVER THERE WERE A WATCHMAKER and jeweller having

letters are joyfully colourful and stylised in street-art mode,

mastered the art of expressing the many-splendoured nature of

adding a vivid touch to this resolutely contemporary watch

love, it is beyond doubt the Maison Chopard, which has made

that has perpetually reinvented itself throughout its more

happiness, joie de vivre, feelings and emotions its favourite fields

than a quarter of a century of existence. An additional detail,

of expression. As official partner to the Cannes Film Festival since

the letter O has been carefully crafted in the shape of a heart:

1998, Chopard has chosen this year to celebrate LOVE: a universal

a direct reference to the emblematic symbol of Chopard, the

message – cherished by co-president and artistic director of the

Big-Hearted Maison.

Maison, Caroline Scheufele – which has inspired a new variation

The 36 mm-diameter Happy Love case is entirely made of steel

within the Happy Sport watch collection. Issued in two limited

and fitted with a royal blue glossy leather strap matching the

series – 250 for the steel version with polished bezel and 150 for its

dial colours. It contains a self-winding mechanical movement

diamond-set counterpart – this new timepiece continues to give

guaranteeing an approximately 42-hour power reserve.

free rein to the dancing diamonds that twirl on its blue mother-of-

Exclusively available from Chopard boutiques, the Happy Love

pearl dial bearing the letters LOVE. The aptly named Happy Love

watch is issued in limited editions of 250 with a polished bezel,

watch is a new icon with which we’re already in love.

and 150 with a diamond-set bezel.

Much more than a watch, with Happy Sport, Caroline Scheufele invented a whole a new way of envisioning time. We no longer look at our wrists to tell the time, but to appreciate

HAPPY SPORT, A WATCHMAKING ICON In 1993, seizing the spirit of the times, Caroline Scheufele

the luxury of observing gracefully whirling diamonds

designed a sports watch based on a unique and explosive

revelling in their freedom expressed through an ever-changing

combination: steel and diamonds. This unprecedented audacity

choreography. Like an enchanted interlude, Happy Sport

gave rise to Happy Sport. Loyal to the spirit of the Happy Diamonds

watches embellish a moment spent far from the daily hustle

that find their place on its dial, twirling like étoile ballet dancers

and bustle of the world and its constraint, offering complete

performing free variations between two sapphire crystals, the

freedom to enjoy a truly original sight. With Happy Love, the

Happy Sport quickly became an iconic figurehead within the

seven dancing diamonds are invited to continue their joyful

Maison and among ladies’ watches in general. In more than 25

waltz on a blue mother-of-pearl dial conveying a universal

years of existence, it has appeared as over a thousand variations

message emitting eminently positive vibes: LOVE. The four

testifying to Chopard’s creative generosity.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

chronometer.ae +971 4 888 00 17

cornavin-watches.ch

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Beat the pack with the Ultimate Racing Watch

Tissot T-Race MotoGPTM Automatic 2019 Limited Edition THE TISSOT T-RACE MOTOGPTM AUTOMATIC 2019 features a

T-Race MotoGPTM Automatic 2019 proves. A tasteful dial features

special design with a black ring made of carbon fibre, a tough,

counters and bigger indexes in a refined rose gold colour, while

sleek material that is highly resistant. It highlights some

a complementary case in PVD rose gold looks cool with a black

resistant pieces of the motorcycle. The impressive technical

coated PVD bezel. The strap is in keeping with the discerning

achievements which lay at the heart of Tissot can be viewed

theme, with resistant rubber coated with imitation crocodile

through the caseback; resembling a wheel, which lets the

leather, adding a classic dimension to what is set to become a

movement be easily admired. A luxury touch

classic watch. Fans of both sport and style take note: it is only

Sporty can be elegant, as the luxurious detailing on the Tissot

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

available in a limited edition of 3333 pieces.

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Aikon Venturer

Limited Edition & #TIMECODE ...FOR GAMERS #TIMECODE IS A NEW ONLINE GAME and a new Limited Edition AIKON – the latest interactive adventure in the watchmaking

A POWERFUL SPIRIT The aesthetics of the AIKON Venturer Limited Edition share

world, brought to you by Maurice Lacroix. A year after

the same contemporary, dynamic spirit as the #Timecode game.

#chaseyourwatch was such a global smash – the first ever

This is a watch made for urban adventurers who don’t like to

interactive game from a watchmaking brand – Maurice Lacroix

play it safe. Anyone can take part, and to be in with a chance of

kicks off a different kind of treasure hunt. #Timecode is played

winning one of the AIKON Venturer Limited Edition watches,

online in almost ten cities around the world, with players rushing

all you have to do is sign up at https://timecode.mauricelacroix.

to keep up with the passing time. Winners will receive the first

com. The aim of the game is collect as many time-credits or

models in a limited edition of the AIKON Venturer watch, custom-

#Timecode as you can by exploring a city... In all its hidden

designed for the occasion and released in a series of 500.

corners, as well as places that are signposted.

Once again, an online Maurice Lacroix platform demonstrates

For eight days in each city, the #Timecode will appear on a

the brand’s engagement with the urban realm of millennials

map in constantly changing locations, or via a series of clues

who appreciate fine watches. Interactive, fast-moving,

that can be found on social media. Once players have located

ephemeral and communal, #Timecode interacts with digital

the #Timecode, they must go and physically collect them and

natives through constantly-updated content available at

activate them on their smartphone. Some are permanent, while

timecode.mauricelacroix.com

others pop up for a while before disappearing, so players must be ready to go at any moment. The winner will be the person who has collected most #Timecode at the end of the game. Limited edition of 500 pieces.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

A. Lange & Söhne x Concorso d‘Eleganza

FROM 24 TO 26 MAY 2019, A. LANGE & SÖHNE will once again sponsor the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, which has taken

and watches: the pursuit for engineering supremacy,

place at the Grand Hotel Villa d’Este in Como, Italy since 1929.

craftsmanship, and the relentless design process to catch

For the eighth time, a one-off LANGE 1 TIME ZONE will be

perfection behind the artistic product. However, there is

awarded to the winner of the “Best of Show” competition.

one similarity between A. Lange & Söhne and the Concorso

Car enthusiasts with an eye for the future: A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid and collector Duccio Lopresto. In its 90th year, “The Symphony of Engines” is the anniversary’s motto of the Concorso d’Eleganza, the most exclusive beauty pageant for historic automobiles. When the 6,

d’Eleganza: Both are small institutions in their respective branches, nevertheless, they do not accept anything but the best to create something long-term with substance. This forms the reasonable basis of the partnership between the two. On the sidelines of the summit of the world’s most beautiful

8 and 12-cylinder engines will be creating the powerful sound

cars, Wilhelm Schmid and automobile collector Duccio

in the park of Villa d’Este, the gentle ticking of the customized

Lopresto joined in conversation to exchange their views on

LANGE 1 TIME ZONE “Como Edition” will pay tribute to the

famous designers, racing legends, and prominent collectors.

incredible beauty of the location and the exclusivity of the

The star of the meeting was the Lopresto family’s sensational

event. Since 2012, the “Como Edition” is the horological

1957 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Speciale Prototipo, which

equivalent to the competition’s “Best of Show” car, handed

won the main prize in 2017.

over by A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid to the winner.

There is an undeniable synergy between vintage cars

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Dubai’s Flagship Boutique Celebrates first anniversary with an exquisite selection of watches From Baselworld DUBAI, 22 MAY 2019 – Building on a long-standing partnership,

colour 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert in blue and black

Rolex and Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons celebrated the first anniversary

ceramic, fitted on a Jubilee bracelet. This watch is driven by the

of the innovative Rolex Flagship Boutique in Dubai by unveiling

newgeneration calibre 3285, launched in 2018.

the latest watches presented at Baselworld 2019. Known for

An Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona in 18 ct yellow

its unrivalled reputation for quality and expertise, Rolex has

gold features a paved black lacquer dial. Thirty-six trapeze-cut

released new additions to its Oyster Perpetual collection, all

diamonds are set on the bezel in lieu of the tachymetric scale.

carrying the brand’s own Superlative Chronometer certification, symbolized by a green seal. The latest model, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42,

the watchmaking technology. In 18 ct yellow, white or Everose

joins the Rolex sailing watch collection. With a diameter of

gold, the new variants of the emblematic model are introduced

42 mm – a new size for the Yacht-Master range – it houses

with dials presenting a concentric gradient, in decorative

the new-generation calibre 3235. Made of 18 ct white gold,

stone, or entirely diamond-paved with a rainbow of sapphires

the watch is fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet and equipped

for the hour markers.

with an Oysterlock safety clasp, also in 18 ct white gold, that includes the Rolex Glidelock extension system. The Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller makes its first appearance in

The new Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 and Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 watches in yellow, white or Everose Rolesor versions (combining Oystersteel and 18 ct gold) are all proposed with

a yellow Rolesor version, combining Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow

elegant and refined dials. They are equipped respectively with

gold. The name ‘Sea-Dweller’ on the dial is marked in yellow.

calibre 3235 and calibre 2236, new-generation movements first

The Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is presented in Oystersteel, with a bidirectional rotatable bezel and a two-

For the first time, the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 is equipped with calibre 3255, a movement at the forefront of

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

introduced on these two models in 2018.

Paris 8ème

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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

TAG Heuer

launches 2 special editions to commemorate Indy 500 race Carrera and Formula 1 DUBAI, UAE – 12 MAY 2019: To mark the legendary Indy 500 automobile race on May 26, 2019,

minute-scale enhances the black dial with its sporty red lacquer. The chronograph

TAG Heuer has launched two sporty

seconds hand is also red, as are the

timepieces that feature a design inspired by

hands on the white sub-dials and the

the annual event. Unlike previous years, the

numbers on the inner counter. The

models for this year – the TAG Heuer Carrera

Indy 500 logo is prominently placed on

- Indy 500 Special Edition and the TAG Heuer

the sub-dial at 6 o’clock. The TAG Heuer

Formula 1 - Indy 500 Special Edition – have been launched internationally so motor racing

Formula 1 – Indy 500 Special Edition is presented in special packaging.

enthusiasts around the world can show off their love for the sport and this explosive event.

A CASE-BACK WITH MEANING Known as one of the oldest automobile races

THE TAG HEUER CARRERA - INDY 500 SPECIAL EDITION The new TAG Heuer Carrera - Indy 500 Special Edition is a pure demonstration of the avant-garde

and part of the famous “Triple Crown”, the Indy 500 is a 500-mile race held at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway in the US. The thrilling event is attended

watchmaker’s passion for the intensity and excitement

by 300,000 spectators every year, making it the most-

of motor racing. Presented on a perforated black

attended full-day sports event in the world. The race

calfskin strap with red stitching and lining, the 41mm Carrera

track is known as “The Brickyard” because it was paved with

wristwatch is clearly linked to the Indy 500 race. The Indy 500

3.2 million bricks in 1909. This detail has made its way onto the

logo is on the sub-dial at 6 o’clock and “Indy 500” is engraved

case-back of the two special edition timepieces. Engraved on the

in red on the ceramic bezel. The black dial of this sporty

stainless steel case-backs of the Carrera and Formula 1 models

chronograph is complete with white sub-dials, a date window

is the iconic Indy 500 logo, including the date of this year’s race

at 3 o’clock and “Carrera” and “Calibre 16” printed in white,

and a brick pattern in the background.

indicating the mechanical movement inside. Subtle touches of bold red are found on the edge of the counter from 12 o’clock to 3 o’clock and the chronograph seconds hand, as well as the pusher. This timepiece comes in special packaging.

TAG HEUER AND MOTOR RACING The two collections that feature the Indy 500 Special Editions both tell an important part of TAG Heuer’s story and connection to the world of motor racing. The adrenaline and thrill of the

THE TAG HEUER FORMULA 1 - INDY 500 SPECIAL EDITION The first Indy 500 timepiece that the Swiss watchmaker

Carrera Panamericana race that inspired the Carrera line and

launched outside of the US, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 – Indy

the brand’s links to Formula 1 racing and the Aston Martin

500 Special Edition is a spirited 43mm chronograph with a

Red Bull Racing team. With these two timepieces, TAG Heuer

clear connection to the historic race. “Indy 500” and the TAG

shares its passion for the sport and the Indy 500 race with speed

Heuer shield stand out in red on the black aluminum bezel.

demons and watch aficionados around the globe.

Continuing with the eye-catching red accents, the “60” of the

sport is part of the Swiss watchmaker’s heritage, as are the

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Tel: +971 4 8880017

www.chronometer.ae

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Trophée Chopard 2019

Zhang Ziyi, godmother of the Trophée Chopard 2019, presents Florence Pugh and François Civil with their awards CANNES, MAY 20TH, 2019 – A few days before the closing ceremony of the 72nd Cannes International Film Festival, the

The winners were determined by votes cast by the Trophée

Trophée Chopard committee has chosen to honour British

Chopard Committee composed of Steven Gaydos, editor-in-

actress Florence Pugh and French actor François Civil with the

chief of Variety magazine, partner to the Trophée; Caroline

prestigious award. During an official dinner organised at the

Scheufele; and various laureates, godmothers and godfathers of

Agora by Pierre Lescure, President of the Cannes Film Festival;

previous editions. It was a truly special evening, permeated by

Thierry Frémaux, General Delegate; and Caroline Scheufele,

a sense of passing on the baton, which saw the great Chinese

Co-President and Artistic Director of Chopard, Chinese actress

actress Zhang Ziyi, a personal friend of Caroline Scheufele,

Zhang Ziyi, illustrious godmother of the Trophée Chopard

present the awards to these two rising stars of world cinema.

2019, presented both winners with their trophies. Former

Guests in attendance notably included Marion Cotillard

laureates, such as Marion Cotillard and Léa Seydoux, were in

and Léa Seydoux, themselves winners of the Chopard Trophy

the audience, which included a large number of actors on hand

in 2004 and 2009, alongside Alejandro Gonzalez Inarritu, Elle

to congratulate the two young thespians.

Fanning and Maimouna N’Diaye – president and jury members

Created in 2001 on the initiative of Caroline Scheufele, a great

Pierre Lescure, Thierry Frémaux and Caroline Scheufele.

of the 72nd Cannes International Film Festival – as well as

lover of the seventh art, the Trophée Chopard yearly rewards

Dakota Fanning, Clotilde Coureau, Isabelle Adjani, Colin and

two up-and-coming talents in the world of international film-

Livia Firth, Chloë Sevigny, James Norton, Stacy Martin, Catrinel

making. This year, the Trophée Chopard was part of the official

Marlon, Guan Xiaotong, Pawel Pawlikowski, Natalia Vodianova,

calendar of the 72nd Cannes International Film Festival. Florence

Monia Chokri, Gilles Lellouche, Joséphine Japy, Elodie Bouchez

Pugh and François Civil received their precious distinction during

and Nadine Labaki. Following the eventful and exciting dinner,

a star-studded dinner prepared by highly acclaimed chef Mauro

which was closed by a performance of Rossy de Palma singing,

Colagreco. The event was held at the seaside Agora venue in a

an after-party organised by Caroline Scheufele took place at the

resolutely French Riviera spirit and at the joint invitation of

Club by Albane, with The Aveners on the turntables.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

EL PRIMERO A386 REVIVAL Iconic trio

ZENITH SETS THE CROWNING TOUCH to the festivities honouring its legendary 1969 El Primero high-frequency chronograph

LIVING LEGEND Apart from its precious metal, this anniversary edition

with a solid gold “revival” trilogy. The 38 mm case of this

faithfully reproduces the initial characteristics of the 1969 El

watchmaking icon, which is celebrating half a century of avant-

Primero: a 38 mm diameter case, a domed crystal, three-coloured

garde and precision, appears clothed in this precious metal. To

counters, a tachymeter scale, as well as the shape of the hands

mark this anniversary, the three unisex models in white, rose

and hour-markers. The mushroom-type pushers and lugs are

or yellow gold are issued in 50-piece limited editions with a

also identical to the original, thanks to the “reverse engineering”

50-year guarantee.

process adopted. In designing this vintage series, each

El Primero has been writing the epic Zenith saga since 1969.

component of an original El Primero chronograph was digitised

For this golden jubilee, the world’s most accurate automatic

so as to ensure accurate reproduction of its properties. The only

chronograph arrays its original attributes in the radiant glow

exceptions are the initially closed caseback that now fully reveals

of white, pink or yellow gold. Its revolutionary mechanics

the movement, as well as the updated logo adorning the crown.

capable of tenth-of-a-second measurement, together with its

Meanwhile, this model’s ‘engine’ is the current version of the El

three emblematic counters, have made it a legend. A cadence

Primero automatic calibre powering the hours, minutes, small

of 36,000 vibrations per hour; an integrated column-wheel

seconds, chronograph, tachymeter and date functions, with the

construction; a ballbearing-mounted central rotor; and over 50

latter appearing between 4 and 5 o’clock on the white lacquered

hours of power reserve (a real feat for such a high frequency)

dial. Nods to the past continue with a brown or black leather

have been the signature features of El Primero creations for half

strap depending on the model – pictured here in rubber-lined

a century. As a fitting tribute, Zenith presents three 50-piece

alligator leather – fitted with a buckle made of the same gold as

re-editions of the original model, complete with a 50-year

the case, as well as with the composition of the case. The latter

guarantee ensuring the bright future and heirloom stature of

contains a bright red travel pouch, like the one from 1969, as

this anniversary series.

well as a microfibre cloth adorned on one side with an El Primero chronograph movement plan and on the other with a picture of the original user manual.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

COVER STORY FADI JAMIL

Fortis PC-7 TEAM Aeromaster Edition #THEREALSQUAD 58

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Dynamics. Precision. Elegance.

he motto of the Swiss Air Force aerobatic formation PC-7 TEAM is clear. True to this motto, the new AEROMASTER models from the traditional and still independent pilot’s watch manufacturer FORTIS are presented. Almost 15 years ago, FORTIS was selected as a partner

and now has a very special edition up its sleeve for the 30th anniversary of the formation: The precise chronometers, limited to 300 pieces each, come with an elegant deep blue dial and applied numerals and indexes. Available in a chronograph and a three-hand version.

MADE FOR MEN WHO DON’T LEAN BACK IN BUSINESS CLASS.

ALL THE BEST COMES FROM ABOVE.

The aerobatic team and Swiss flagship PC-7 TEAM consists

In order to get the best result, it is extremely important to

of 9 pilots and 3 other members, who under the leadership of

survey the best for each field. So the pilots of the PC-7 TEAM

Captain Cyril «Johnny» Johner put incredible precision work

gave the essential input to the watches themselves. Topics like

into the skies. With a distance of partly under 3 meters the

reading speed or precision were put in the foreground. Also the

most diverse maneuvers and formations are presented to the

royal blue dial with the applied indexes and numerals reflects

astonished public. The commitment of each team member is an

their wishes: Elegant but still a tool. In addition to the pilots,

additional task. The pilots of the PC-7 TEAM fly full-time in one

various watch experts and enthusiasts were consulted in the

of the three F/A-18 squadrons of the Swiss Air Force in Payerne

same round, who brought improvements and detail finesse to

or Meiringen and fly about 110 hours a year on the Hornet. In

the new Aeromaster with their cross-brand experience. Last but

this capacity, they contribute to the Air Force’s fulfilment of its

not least, FORTIS itself, under the new management, has of

mission. This includes maintaining air sovereignty and ensuring

course incorporated some know-how and refinement into the

the air police service around the clock over Switzerland.

two models and can therefore always surprise the wearer with product details.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 59

Scan to watch the movie

ROBUST OUTSIDE - INSIDE TOO. FORTIS does not experiment – or even compromise - with

of 200 meters – without a screw-down crown, which would

Aeromaster case is made of brushed stainless steel and offers

be counterproductive in flying. The heart of the new PC-7

exactly what is needed for the G-forces generated in aerobatics:

TEAM Aeromaster is the C.O.S.C. certified Swiss automatic

protection. The fine brushing prevents possible sunlight

chronometer movement, which offers the very best precision.

reflections and thus contributes to quick readability - without

The movement has undergone a special decoration and ticks

losing the typical FORTIS tool elegance. As usual with FORTIS,

well protected and invisible behind the case back specially

the well-known double anti-reflective sapphire crystal with

embossed for this edition.

the special AR027 coating is of course used here. Even if not so important for pilots, the company’s own «In-Crown-Double-

Gasket-System» made it possible to achieve a water resistance

the choice of the case. The proven and extremely robust B-42

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

FOR THE LOVE OF DETAIL. It is the fine, barely noticeable components and considerations that make the difference. The art of giving a timepiece a face intended for eternity - not fashion, not trend - but rather

second hand. All these subtleties define the degree of passion that FORTIS has for its product, its partners and its wearers. Whether the decision is made on the chronograph or the three-

functional and timeless. This is the only way to create icons

hand model - the watch is always delivered on stainless steel bracelet

and preserve value. No ifs, ands or buts. The grained base dial,

in a very special collectorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s box with PC-7 TEAM patch, travel case,

grooved totalizers, a rehaut that precisely omits the indexes,

second dark blue Cordura performance strap and corresponding tools.

numerals that are applied and filled with SuperluminovaÂŽ

The chronograph will be officially available from the end of

luminous material and, of course, the Pilatus PC-7 aircrafts in

May and the three-hand model from mid-August at FORTIS

the famous diamond formation. The metallic frames of the hour

dealers and in the official online shop.

and minute hands were formed to accommodate the indexes and numerals. A contrasting highlight is the central Swiss-red

www.fortis-swiss.com

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 61

PANERAI FADI JAMIL

Panerai’s Exceptional SIHH 2019 Collection Showcased At Immersione Event MAY 12TH, 2019 - Panerai’s outstanding new SIHH 2019 collection

authenticity; it is not a brand that is absorbed in inventions only

was showcased during a 4-days regional event on land and sea

for marketing. We say Panerai is Laboratorio di Idee, so it is very

at the Four Seasons Resort Dubai at the presence of Jean-Marc

important to give it substance. It’s not just a claim, we are really

Pontroué, CEO of Panerai.

bringing innovation in terms of experiences taking customers to

“When we launched the Submersible watches at SIHH in January, it was clear we crafted a very special collection for

the next level.” said Jean-Marc Pontroué. The brand’s SIHH 2019 novelties were presented to customers,

2019 because of the strong link with the Maison’s historical

friends of the brand, watch collectors and media. Among the

background related to the Navy. Panerai’s story contains

watches presented, highlights were:

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE CHRONO GUILLAUME NÉRY EDITION 47MM – LIMITED TO 15 EXAMPLES

PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE MARINA MILITARE CARBOTECH™ 47MM LIMITED TO 33 EXAMPLES

Strong, bold and tough with a personalised black

The fortunate owners of this piece will be invited to

rubber strap, it is inspired by the achievements of

take part in training activities with Combusin, the

Guillaume Néry, the internationally known French

Diving and Commando group of the Italian Navy.

world record breaking free-diving champion. A

All-black with details in an intense military green,

perfect example of Panerai’s innovative creation of

this timepiece is perfect for scuba diving and other

indomitable character and exceptional technical

underwater experiences. On the back of the case, the

performance.

Comsubin logo is engraved. 

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 63

THE PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE MIKE HORN EDITION – 47MM – LIMITED TO 19 EXAMPLES Named after one of the world’s most famous living explorers and ambassador of Panerai, this is a powerful, tough and reliable diving watch for the most challenging of environments. It has been produced using pioneering methods of recycling available resources to protect the oceans and lands of our world. Owners will be invited to join Mike Horn in days of intensive training among the ice floes of the Arctic.

PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE 42MM Sporty, powerful and contemporary. Its 42mm diameter makes it ideal for any wrist size.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE CARBOTECH The model is ultra-lightweight thanks to its case, rotating bezel and device for protecting the winding crown made of Carbotech: a material lighter and more resistant to external stress.

PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE BMG-TECHTM 47MM It combines the exceptional strength and resistance of BMG-TECHTM with the lightness of Carbotech. The instantly recognisable identity of the House is revealed in the use of innovative materials. During the course of the event, visitors were encouraged to take part in Immersione themed activities consistent with Paneraiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s identity and connection to the sea. Guests enjoyed nautical ventures on and around a luxury yacht, including scuba diving, free diving and sailing as well as appreciating the craftsmanship, artistry and skill of the Panerai watchmakers, flown in for the occasion. An exclusive dining experience successfully concluded the day.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 65

FOCUS MOVADO FADI JAMIL

Always in motion The Movado Museum Sport Watch is modern design at its purest. Clean, bold lines and a sophisticated approach to materials and finishes make this a stand-out collection. Always in motion… Movado is proud to unveil this latest collection that combines the legendary Museum Dial’s distinctive minimalist design codes with the contemporary functionality of a chronograph movement. NEW FOR 2019 : THE UNDERWORLD The new Museum Sport highlights the popular aquatic diver trend by channeling oceanic inspirations in its deep maritime blue dial and functional design. of the watch features a chronograph with three subdials and allows for telling time in day or night with its luminescent coating on the hands. A rich layering of materials gives the watch a luxurious feel The sporty perforated pattern on the black calfskin strap complements the polished grey metal case and the grainy, textural finish of the dial.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Movado Museum Sport CASE : Grey 10.30mm deep with PVD-

finished stainless steel case, crown and pushers; black PVD-finished bezel; scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 3 atm/30m SIZE : Men’s (43 mm) DIAL : Blue grainy dial with three subdials and date aperture; black polished concave Dot with black polished index; luminescent coated dauphine hands (hour/minute/ second) MOVEMENT : Swiss quartz chronograph, Ronda Z60 STRAP: Black perforated calfskin leather strap with self-colored stitching; grey PVD-finished pin buckle

FOCUS MOVADO FADI JAMIL

Master of the

minimalist aesthetic Movado crystallizes the trend for thinner, sleeker cases in its elegant

Movado Ultra Slim

Ultra Slim collection first introduced in 2017. Combining timeless design

MOVEMENT: Swiss quartz Ronda 702

with the modern slender silhouettes, the Ultra Slim collection presents a

DIAL: Grey, silver or blue gradient

colored dial with black plated or pale rose gold-toned Dot and hands; applied black-plated or pale rose goldtoned baton hour markers CASE: Polished stainless steel with black or pale rose gold PVD finished case; 6.30 or 5.85mm deep; scratchresistant sapphire crystal. Waterresistant to 3 atm/30 m BRACELET: Beige or pale pink calfskin leather strap with self-colored stitching; pin buckle in the same color as the case material SIZE: 40mm (men’s); 35mm (women’s) MOVADO ULTRA SLIM 0607373 (PINK) WILL BE AVAILABLE IN THE MARKET IN AUGUST.

range of versatile timepieces that capture Movado’s distinctive approach to watchmaking. NEW FOR 2019 : PASTEL COLORS The Ultra Slim collection offers an exquisite balance of clean, modern styling – and with these new colorways for 2019, that balance just got even more perfect. Movado’s iconic dial, defined by a single dot at 12 o’clock to symbolize the sun at high noon, is now softened by this season’s big trend for fresh pastel shades and pale neutrals. Luxurious calfskin leather straps make for super-comfortable wear, and the sophisticated muted shades of their dials mean these watches will match any outfit. Channeling the vogue for delicate, light shades, the gleaming cases of the Ladies’ versions are treated in pale rose, silver, beige and blue, and match with their grey, pink, navy, taupe and tan straps. The Men’s model features a strikingly elegant contrast of grey, blue and beige dials on taupe, grey, navy, brown and beige straps.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 67

FOCUS EBEL FADI JAMIL

EBEL SPORT CLASSIC LADY MOVEMENT: Quartz ETA E61.031 CASE: stainless steel material FINISHING: polished CRYSTAL: sapphire antireflective

underneath DIMENSIONS: 29.00mm THICKNESS: 6.00mm WATER-RESISTANCE: 5 bars (50 meters) DIAL: Silver galvanic with rhodium-plated indexes BRACELET: Polished stainless steel with waves Ebel folding clasp WILL BE AVAILABLE IN THE MARKET IN JULY.

A modern,

polished and minimalistic Swiss luxury watch brand EBEL is excited to announce that it will add a touch of shine to the EBEL Sport Classic collection

The new model will be available in three different designs

with three new models. The EBEL Sport Classic collection

that all feature a new mirror-polished finish: stainless steel,

stands for iconic glamour, featuring unique and perfect

stainless steel with a yellow-gold bezel and indexes, and

integration between the case with its five signature screws

stainless steel with a red-gold bezel and indexes. On all three

and the distinctive wave links of the bracelet. The watches

watches the signature EBEL logo makes a subtle statement for

from this collection are true statement pieces that reflect a

those in the know.

new twist for this iconic line – a luxurious, sport-chic inspired addition to any woman’s designer collection. These three new models quite literally reflect the DNA of

Aside from the colored accents in the two-tone models, the three newcomers are unembellished – the sleek lines and subtle styling carry the look all on their own and perfectly

the EBEL Sport Classic collection while updating it with a

complement the dazzling polished finish. Later in 2019,

fresh, modern take on this iconic, timeless design. Their retro

another version of these watches will be available with

glamour and gleaming surfaces are ideal for women whose

diamond accents and a mother-of-pearl dial that will add a

unique style calls for a dash of luxury that can be worn every

further touch of sparkle.

day. The simple, minimalistic design of the dials and indexes

perfectly captures the spirit of the trendy millennials.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

FOCUS EBEL FADI JAMIL

An iconic classic

in fashion-forward green

Just in time for spring, Swiss luxury watch brand EBEL launches two

EBEL SPORT CLASSIC

glamorously green additions to the EBEL Sport Classic collection. These

MINI – GREEN DIAL

fashion-forward models will be available in two different sizes, both in a striking shade of wild green: the 29 mm EBEL Sport Classic Lady, and the EBEL Sport Classic Mini at 24 mm. Both models feature a lustrous, velvety green dial embellished with eight diamonds and gold-plated hour, minute, and second hands. The delicate cocktail watch EBEL Sport Classic Mini features a dial made of striking, wild green galvanic. Both models are fitted with a bracelet in brushed stainless steel with polished gold iconic waves and an EBEL folding clasp. The EBEL Sport Classic collection stands for iconic glamour, fluidity, and beauty, featuring unique and perfect integration between the hexagonal case and the distinctive wave links of the bracelet. The watches from this

MOVEMENT: Quartz ETA E03.001 CASE:

Stainless steel & 18K 3N yellow gold material FINISHING: alternated brushed/ polished CRYSTAL: sapphire antireflective underneath DIMENSIONS: 24.00mm THICKNESS: 5.15mm WATER-RESISTANCE: 5 bars (50 meters) DIAL: Green galvanic with 3N yellow gold-plated Roman numerals and 8 diamonds (0.0312cts) HANDS: Hour – Minute. Facetted, diamond-polished 3N yellow gold-plated hour and minute hands BRACELET: Brushed stainless steel with polished 3N yellow gold PVD waves Ebel folding clasp WILL BE AVAILABLE IN THE MARKET IN JULY.

collection are true statement pieces that make a luxurious addition to any woman’s wardrobe.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 69

FOCUS CONCORD FADI JAMIL

CONCORD MARINER GENT SL MOVEMENT: Quartz ETA E64.111 HANDS Hour â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Minute â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Sweep seconds

Diamond-polished rhodium-plated hour and minute hands Flat, diamondpolished rhodium-plated sweep seconds hand CASE: Stainless steel material FINISHING: alternated brushed/polished CRYSTAL: sapphire antireflective underneath DIMENSIONS: 40.00mm THICKNESS: 5.85mm WATER-RESISTANCE: 5 bars (50 meters) DIAL: Blue galvanic, rhodium-plated indexes BRACELET: Brushed and polished stainless steel. Stainless steel deployment buckle with pushers WILL BE IN THE MARKET IN OCTOBER.

The concord mariner has a new, sleeker cousin Concord presents a new variation on their modern Mariner.

40mm, 12-sided bevel. The striking blue galvanic dial sports

The Mariner Gent SL has all of the perfect functionality of

rhodium-plated indices and diamond-polished, rhodium-plated

the iconic Concord Mariner but in a sharper, slimmer setting.

hour, second and minute hands. Secured by a stylish, slimline

Retaining original touches of the 80s model such as the

bracelet with a stainless steel deployment buckle, this is a

unique, fluid bracelet and the signature 12-sided bezel, it has

watch that works against any backdrop.

been given a lightweight, modern rework. The Concord Mariner has become a flagship for all classic models in need of a fresh look. With its redesign of an

Its Sapphire crystal cover is anti-reflective, giving you perfect

80s classic, the Mariner SL, Concord has brought sporting

visibility wherever you take it. A combination of aesthetics,

gentlemen technical excellence in an absolutely stylish setting.

precision and style, the Mariner SL is the newest member of

The new model, at just 5.85 mm in depth, has the sharp, minimalist design of the Mariner, and retains its signature

Equipped with a Quartz ETA E64.111 movement, the Mariner SL is both technically impressive, and water resistant to 5 bars.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

the classic Concord family. Timeless style and durability. Why settle for less?

FOCUS CONCORD FADI JAMIL

CONCORD NEW MARINER SL LADY MOVEMENT: Quartz ETA E61.111 HANDS: Hour – Minute – Sweep

seconds Diamond-polished rhodium-plated hour and minute hands Flat, diamond-polished rhodium-plated sweep seconds hand CASE: Stainless steel material SETTING: bezel set with 84 diamonds (48x diameter 0.80, 24x diameter 0.90 and 12x diameter 1.10) = 0.2424cts, VS quality FINISHING: alternated brushed/polished CRYSTAL: sapphire antireflective underneath DIMENSIONS: 30.00mm THICKNESS: 5.75mm Water-resistance: 5 bars (50 meters) DIAL: White mother-of-pearl with 12 diamonds (0.0624cts) BRACELET: Brushed and polished stainless steel. Stainless steel deployment buckle with pushers WILL BE IN THE MARKET IN OCTOBER.

Beauty has a light touch Feminine chic meets ultra-modern in the much-anticipated

slim elegance is never out of place, whether at work, at leisure,

new Mariner SL Lady. The Mariner’s signature 12-sided Bezel

or on a trip that could take you anywhere.

now sits in a slim-line stainless steel case that is simple,

In 2014, the Mariner became the model that showed how a

elegant, and striking. Adorned only with 74 individual

re-edit should be done. With its unmistakeable 12-sided bezel,

diamonds, this model is as captivating as it is flawless.

the Mariner was an eighties icon that gained a new lease of

Inspired by 1980’s iconic Mariner SG, this timepiece has all the

life in its 21st-century redesign. Each new model since has

beautiful finishing touches of the classic Mariner in both full

become forward-looking, but without losing the unique style

stainless steel and rose gold and steel versions. From the wind

of the original.

rose case-back design to the new slim and sleek bracelet design, this is a timepiece that looks set to become timeless. The Mariner SL Lady is also as well-equipped as any good

The Mariner SL Lady is no exception. With its unique bracelet that echoes both the fluidity of water and the structure of wooden decking, it is a beautiful fusion of contrasts. Feminine

seafaring craft. Water resistant to 50m, the ivory dial is

yet sporty, technical yet sophisticated, this model holds a

encased in crystal with an anti-reflective sapphire finish to

charm that is entirely its own. A slimline beauty that we’ve all

give you perfect visibility, whatever the conditions. Lighter

been waiting for.

than its sisters, the Mariner SL also opens up new vistas. Its

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

H ER ITAG E TO U R B I LLO N DOUBLEPERIPHER AL LIMITED EDITION

Treasuring values since 1888 Swiss watch maker Carl F. Bucherer just celebrated its 130th anniversary. Its origins lie in the beautiful city of Lucerne in the heart of Switzerland, where founder

Hallmark of Lucerne, the Chapel Bridge

Carl Friedrich Bucherer opened his first boutique for fine jewelry and watches in 1888. Being part of the Bucherer AG, the brand yet is very proud of having its own history as a watch manufacture, producing ingenious

130 Years of Sophistication

in-house made timepieces, born out of a rich heritage,

and a bright future

driven by innovation. ___ A new limited masterpiece emphasizes this unique symbiosis of tradition and pioneering spirit, that Carl F. Bucherer is proud of: The Heritage Tourbillon DoublePeripheral, not only pays tribute to the past, it marks the start of a new product range set to carry on Carl F. Buchererâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s legacy: the Heritage collection.

___ The first model from the new collection is limited to 88 pieces in a tribute to the year in which the Carl F. Bucherer brand was founded. The new timepiece reflects the golden luster of the baroque city Lucerne, with an elaborately finished 42.50 mm, 18-karat rose gold case. The shape and the design of the dial, were inspired by various vintage watch models from the 1960s. Another homage to the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s birthplace is the movement bridge, crafted in 18-karat white gold, which features a hand-engraved cityscape of Lucerne. It covers the entire back of the movement, with the Inside the Carl F. Bucherer ateliers

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

exception of the tourbillon.

Heritage Tourbillon DoublePeripheral Limited Edition

A Pioneer of Peripheral Technology ___ At the heart of the new masterpiece is the in-house CFB T3000 caliber, featuring a tourbillon and an automatic winding system that are both mounted peripherally. The tourbillon is regarded as a highlight of the art of watchmaking. In the T3000 the designers and watchmakers at Carl F. Bucherer have succeeded in giving it a floating appearance. The cage of the minute Ingenious: Tourbillon of the manufacture caliber CFB T3000

tourbillon is supported peripherally by three ball bearings – invisible to the viewer, giving it a floating appearance. The Heritage Tourbillon DoublePeripheral

“ We are inspired by the past, yet always look ahead into the future. We are bound to tradition and driven by innovation and passion. “Made of Lucerne”. These are our core values.”

SASCHA MOERI, CEO CARL F. BUCHERER

Limited Edition has a power reserve of 65 hours and is a certified chronometer. ___ The brand thus combines retro design elements with state-of-the-art manufacturing technologies, thereby successfully bridging the gap between the past and the present, into a bright future.

#CA RLFBUCH ERER MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

EDITOR’S PICK BRICE LECHEVALIER

The color of time

ARTYA

BVLGARI

Butterfly Delicacy 2

Gerald Genta

Offering a distillation of creativity with its handmade dial composed of natural gold leaf pigments and butterfly wings framed by a “chocogold” case, the Butterly Delicacy 2 also features a COSC-certified ArtyA self-winding movement.

Skull

Freak X Titanium Blue

50th Anniversary

Claude Meylan’s skeleton dials celebrate the Mexican “Calavera” culture with this Skull limited edition in five different colors.

No dial nor hands, but instead a flying karussel to indicate the time on the Freak X Titanium Blue, the range-entry model in the eXperte Freak collection.

Bvlgari has chosen platinum to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Gérald Genta brand (acquired in 2000) with its famous sturdy round Arena case and jumping hour display.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

CLAUDE MEYLAN

ULYSSE NARDIN

Dans sa diversité toute puissante, l’horlogerie mobilise des ambassadeurs toujours plus créatifs pour convertir les poignets mal accompagnés aux vertus du bracelet bien équipé. La richesse du contenu technique dépasse souvent de loin l’habillage de ces montres de luxe aux prix variés, mais cette sélection se distingue par la ferveur de son approche chromatique.

In its all-powerful diversity, more and more creative watchmaking ambassadors are involved in converting wrists to the virtues of a well-equipped timepiece. The richness of the technical content often goes far beyond the exterior of these variously priced luxury models, but this selection is distinguished by the intensity of its chromatic approach.

HUBLOT Big Bang Collège du Léman

HYSEK IO Double Orbitale

MONTBLANC 1858 Geosphère

URWERK

Lukas Gojda/stock.adobe.com

UR-105 CT Maverick

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 75

INTEVIEW BRICE LECHEVALIER

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Brice Lechevalier directeur produit de TAG Heuer Founder of the Fine Watch Club

“The world’s thinnest automatic watch by Bulgari and the Monaco Yacht Show will get the Fine Watch Club off to a great start this autumn”

What is the concept behind the Fine Watch Club? It’s the first international watch club that offers benefits to its members all year round, including weekly private sales. Every week, members will receive an offer exclusively tailored to them, in one of four basic categories. Each month we create one highly limited series in collaboration with a luxury watch brand, on the basis of one of their iconic collections. The next week, we offer a VIP experience at a watch industry event, which might be a visit to a manufacture, or a behind-the-scenes experience at a watch fair. Then they will have access to our Privilege sale. These are high-quality watches that are no longer available from retailers, because we find them in the drawers of the watchmakers themselves! They can be bought at less than half the retail price. The fourth type of private sale is the Mystery sale, which will generally be an exclusive watch accessory, a piece of jewellery or an experience. Members are bound to come across at least one offer that interests them each quarter. What is the price range of the watches you will be offering? They are all luxury watches by recognised brands that we believe in, and we can recommend them wholeheartedly. We work hand in hand with the brands’ managers and designers to offer unusual variants of their flagship models to our members. This gives them rarity and exclusivity, given that the series concerned

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

run to between 10 and 25 units. You have to be quick off the

What are the Fine Watch Club’s first events?

mark to get one. But the Fine Watch Club will offer watches at

Since March we have curated several events for small groups,

all price points, from under CHF 2,000 for certain Privilege sales,

focusing on creating a genuine experience, and offering proxim-

into the tens of thousands. Our programme is already mapped

ity and exclusivity. We invited 20 members to join us over two

out up to spring 2020, and it includes limited editions created in

days behind the scenes of Baselworld, and further groups have

association with Bulgari, Frédérique Constant, Girard-Perregaux,

been invited on private visits to the Jaeger-LeCoultre, TAG Heuer

Maurice Lacroix, TAG Heuer, Ulysse Nardin and Zenith, along

and Bulgari manufactures. In September it will be our pleasure

with Privilege offers with Alpina, Corum, Eberhard, Fabergé and

to invite them to the Monaco Yacht Show, to discover the Only

Jacob & Co. Our inaugural limited series comprises twelve Bulgari

Watch 2019 and the Monaco Yacht Show limited series by Ulysse

Octo Finissimo Automatics in titanium. This watch holds the

Nardin. A visit to the Zenith manufacture is also on the agenda,

world record for thinness, and it won the Men’s Watch category

along with private previews of the Watch Photo Awards exhibi-

of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. There won’t be enough

tion, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève exhibition, and

for everyone.

Dubai Watch Week. And there’s plenty more. The Fine Watch Club also has a gallery where we can invite members for more

How do you become a member?

private meetings. Membership of the Fine Watch Club is the

You have to love watches and the watch world! We offer three

best gift you could possibly give – either to someone you care

tiers of membership. The Three Hands category is the free entry-

about, or to yourself! The lucky recipient can continue to enjoy it

level membership that just gives access to the private sales.

every week for a whole year! Can you guess why we created the

Applicants need to fill in a membership form, which is then vali-

hashtag #getwhatyoucant?

dated by the Fine Watch Club. The Manufacture category offers more benefits, including offers from our partners, but the main advantage is that they get a 24-hour head start on those offers. It costs just CHF 98 per year. Finally, Platinum membership is for the VIPs of the Fine Watch Club. They have fast-track access to all our offers one week before anyone else, and they can get involved in the design process for future limited editions. The annual

• •

membership fee is CHF 480, but in the first year this fee can be deducted from the purchase price of a limited edition watch. That makes it extremely worthwhile for dedicated watch fans.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

•

Brice Lechevalier is the founder of GMT Magazine, Geneva Watch Tour and the Watch Photo Awards. He is also the Managing Director at WorldTempus. Bulgari is offering 12 Octo Finissimo watches in titanium, created exclusively for Fine Watch Club members. This is the world’s thinnest watch, and it was awarded the Men’s Watch prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Alpina will be raiding its museum for something to whet the appetite of FWC members who are connoisseurs of accessible rarity.

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FINE WATCH CLUB BRICE LECHEVALIER

The Fine Watch Club

shows its hand The September program notably features a limited series of 12 titanium Octo Finissimo watches and Only Watch at the Monaco Yacht Show.

s the first international watch club based in Switzerland, the Fine Watch Club had announced its launch for the summer of 2019 and is keeping its

the back drawers of watch Manufactures to find models that

promises. After a series of exclusive events taking place every

are no longer available on the market, but whose intrinsic

month since Baselworld, the opening of its weekly private sales

value they still recommend, and for which they have been able

will take place in September for thousands of members already

to negotiate for their members a price reduced by at least half.

enrolled since last autumn.

FOUR TYPES OF OFFERS RESERVED FOR MEMBERS

The Fine Watch Club undertakes to give its members access to one offer per week, without systematically having to provide each month all four types of offers (for example there could be two Event offers in the same month instead of one of the other

From September onwards, members will be offered a weekly

three). Each private sale is limited in time (members have one

private sale of four different types :

week to decide, after which they are no longer available), and

1. Limited Series, created by major watch brands exclusively for

in quantity (for example only 12 of the titanium Octo Finissimo

members of the Fine Watch Club ; 2. Event, for example a VIP Manufacture visit or an exclusive watchmaking event ; 3. Mystery, for example an accessory related to watches, a

watchmaking experience or a piece of jewelry ; 4. Privilege : the club’s managers use their contacts to delve into

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Automatic by Bvlgari).

EXCLUSIVITY, PRESTIGE AND QUALITY WITH GPHG AWARD-WINNING BRANDS

BVLGARI offers 12 of its titanium Octo Finissimo watches, created exclusively

for members of the Fine Watch Club, holder of the world record for thinness and winner of the Men’s Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève.

previews, cocktails and other exclusive features await members at the MONACO YACHT SHOW.

GMT readers will appreciate the choice of the inaugural series of the Fine Watch Club, headed by Julien Haenny. It is none other than the world’s thinnest automatic watch, winner of the Men’s Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2017 : the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Automatic in titanium. Only 12 of these watches in a version created exclusively for the Fine Watch Club will be available, meaning Platinum membership is preferable (see below) for anyone hoping to snag one of them. There is talk of iconic collections by Zenith and TAG Heuer for the subsequent limited series. As far as the Event private sale is concerned, the Fine Watch Club will be organizing a two-day full-immersion experience at the Monaco Yacht Show, including a chance to get a preview of the roster of watches to be featured in the biennial Only Watch auction, along with the limited series dedicated to it by its sponsor Ulysse Nardin, as well as visiting a super yacht and the Monaco Yacht Club.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 81

ALPINA will extract certain pieces from its museum for the benefit of FWC

members who are connoisseurs looking for affordable rarity.

Having spent almost 20 years working for various luxury brands, notably in the role of CEO, JULIEN HAENNY has been managing the Fine Watch Club since January 2019.

Diversity is the name of the game in the first Privilege sale,

the super VIPs of the Fine Watch Club. Not only do they enjoy

with watch creations from an iconic century-old brand, winner

fast-track access to offers one week before others, but also parti-

of multiple GPHG prizes. Julien Haenny has selected 12 models

cipate in the process of creating future limited editions by being

from three collections for women and men, bringing together a

consulted on the choice of brands and personalization. All this

total of about fifty pieces at particularly attractive prices. Only

for an annual contribution of CHF 480.–, deductible from their

members will have access to these. October will bring a change

first limited-series purchase.

of scene with much sought-after rare models unearthed in the drawers of the Manufacture Alpina.

A FREE SECOND YEAR OF MEMBERSHIP FOR GMT READERS

THE ADVANTAGES OF PLATINUM MEMBERSHIP

As a media partner of the Fine Watch Club, GMT is offering its

While it is possible to sign up for free with the Fine Watch

readers a complimentary second year of membership, regardless

Club by providing a certain amount of information and thus

of the chosen status. To receive offers every week and ensure

obtain 3 Hand status, the most motivated members will prefer

that you have at least one watch to your liking and means (since

to opt for Manufacture or Platinum status. Manufacture mem

there will indeed be something for every budget), or to partici-

bers have access to the offers 24 hours before others and bene-

pate in a watchmaking event in Switzerland or the rest of the

fit from advantages with many partners, for an annual fee of

world as a VIP, sign up on fine-watch-club.com using the dis-

only CHF 98.–. Meanwhile, Platinum members are considered as

count code GMT2019 by September 30th 2019.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

An international watch owners club offering its members year-round benefits.

OPENING SEPTEMBER 2019 register now on

www.fine-watch-club.com

EDITOR’S PICK CLOÉ MUGNY

Sporting spirit Whether in the air, at sea or on land, sports are inseparable from the notion of time. Timepieces are therefore designed to meet the needs of athletes and withstand the constraints imposed by their environment. Whatever your activity, there will always be an ideal companion watch.

TAG HEUER

CYRUS

Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T

Klepcys Alarm

Tourbillon Nanograph

PANERAI Submersible Luna Rossa (PAM01039)

DE BETHUNE

your123/stock.adobe.com

DB28GS Grand Bleu

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

WATCH MY NAME SERGE PANCZUK

To what does the name Nautilus actually referâ&#x20AC;&#x2030;?

A watch is all about the back story, technical characteristics and often its design. It also bears a name, but we rarely discuss that aspect. Yet without it, it would lack an identity as well as a sense of proximity. 88

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

name implies a message that appears on a dial, composed of intentions and unspoken words. And sometimes, a few letters can hide certain secrets. Patek Philippe holds a special place in this story of

words. The brand is very sparing with names, reserving them for its collections, while its models bear references whose meanings remain somewhat mysterious. This is an interesting choice. At a time when brands are supposed to be easily accessible, Patek Philippe appears to be doing things differently. Since it seems that one must deserve a Patek, the first step of the initiation is to dive into these complex references. Nevertheless, within the Patek Philippe family, there are also certain names that truly matter, and such is doubtless the case with Nautilus. It belongs to the select circle of watch names that have become more famous than those of the brand themselves. And this is definitely no coincidence.

THE STORY BEGINS A LONG TIME AGO, IN POLAND During the 18th and 19th centuries, the country sought to free itself from Russian influence. This period was marked by several insurrections – in 1794, 1831, 1846 and 1863 – which were all severely repressed.

WHAT’S THAT GOT TO DO WITH OUR NAUTILUS ? When Jules Verne began writing Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Sea, he imagined Captain Nemo as a Polish insurgent who had fled his country in 1864. This choice was questioned by his publisher and finally the adventurer ended up being the son of an Indian raja. A Polish immigrant who flees his country after taking part in an uprising, does that remind you of something ? A few years earlier, Antoine Norbert de Patek had experienced exactly the same story, as an aristocrat, military man, insurgent and finally a refugee… While Nemo chose the Sea, Patek chose Lake Geneva.

LET’S CONTINUE TAKING A CLOSER LOOK AT THIS STORY Nemo is a great engineer. Patek is a brilliant watchmaker. Both will need a partner. For Patek, he will first team up with François Czapek, and subsequently with a French watchmaker, Jean Adrien Philippe. For Nemo, things were more complicated, yet the tandem he forms with the French researcher Pierre Aronnax lies at the core of Jules Verne’s novel. 

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 89

SO NOW LET’S TALK ABOUT THE FAMOUS NAUTILUS

THE OTHER NAUTILUS …

The machine is revolutionary. It haunts the oceans, destroying the

You may remember the Jaeger Lecoultre Polaris. Launched a

ships that sail there. It embodies the opposition between ancient and

few years before the Nautilus, its name evokes both the Cold

modern. Does that ring any bells ? A simple, sporty watch, in a world of

War and the ice floe. The Polaris was the first nuclear missile

complications and formalism. The Nautilus rethinks aesthetic codes

launched from a submarine. Strangely enough, there is in fact

and forces people to reflect on the future of watchmaking. Its name

another Nautilus, the SSN-571, the first nuclear-powered sub-

is not mere a reference to a submarine. Perhaps it was a message sent

mersible, launched in 1955. So, with this American Nautilus,

– in 1976, on the eve of the great quartz crisis – to an industry that

may the brand have been sending a warning to another watch-

appeared to be ticking along nicely with no changes in sight…

maker rival ?

PURSING OUR OBSERVATION…

THE NAUTILUS EMBARKS ON ITS OWN JOURNEY !

We note that the name Nautilus was chosen to designate a solid,

Nautilus is thus a name that can be taken to mean several dif-

waterproof watch, built in a rather unusual way and shaped like

ferent things. The novel and reality. Science and war. As well as

the portholes of the Nemo submarine. Might that have been a mes-

Europe and the United States. The Nautilus has one foot in Europe

sage intended for a neighboring Geneva-based watch company :

through its filiation with Jules Verne, while the other is in Amer-

the Submariner versus the Nautilus ? On the one hand, the profes-

ica by its reference to the American ship, or by the presence of the

sional ; on the other hand, the vessel – and no ordinary one at that.

Canadian Ned Land in Jules Verne’s book. It is in fact one of the

It is derived from literature, from the imagination rather than real-

first watches to have a global name ! While Rolex, Omega or Aude-

ity. Might the storybook Nautilus be more poetic than the profes-

mars Piguet remain English-speaking, Patek Philippe adopted a

sional Submariner ? Did the inventors of the Nautilus – for once

more international stance from 1976 onwards by playing with

– wish to instill a hint of emotion into their Patek ? The question

a name featuring multiple interpretations and meanings. All of

seems legitimate. One thing is for sure : within the small silent

which goes to show a name is important ! So remember to take a

world of aquatic watches, the Nautilus bears a very original name.

look at your dials…

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

FOR THE JOURNEY YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE ON

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES . SAUDI ARABIA . KUWAIT . JORDAN . LEBANON TUMI.COM

TOURBILLON FADI JAMIL

Récital 27 Three time zones, moon phase, 7 days’ power reserve In 2016, BOVET 1822 unveiled the Shooting Star tourbillon, the first timepiece in an exclusive collection dedicated to astronomy. The Astérium and Grand Récital tourbillons then followed in 2017 and 2018 respectively. Each of the three timepieces boasted groundbreaking technical specificities and explored new ways of measuring time, and each was also housed in a characteristic inclined case, inspired by and shaped like a sloped writing desk. Designed by BOVET 1822 Owner, Mr. Raffy, the “writing slope” case features a bezel inclined at 6 o’clock. This ingenious idea makes it possible to diversify and organize the types of displays by using domes, rollers, discs, and three-dimensional hands to enhance intuitiveness, ergonomics, and elegance. The three-dimensional design prioritizes information for improved readability and brings the collector’s eye to the heart of the movement to discover the excellence found in each detail.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

As seen by the numerous awards bestowed on the trilogy’s

The choice of three time zones is not insignificant. Historically,

timepieces, notably including the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix which

Maison BOVET was founded in three separate time zones

honored Grand Récital at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in

simultaneously. Indeed, when it was founded on May 1, 1822,

2018, collectors and experts commend the stylistic revolution of the

the Bovet brothers were already present in Switzerland, London

“writing slope” case.

and China. Beyond this historical anecdote, the three time zones

Mr. Raffy’s inspired “writing slope” case design meets and once again exceeds collectors’

expectations in the Maison’s latest

offer collectors an answer suited to the modern world and to the immediacy of communications on a global scale.

timepiece, the Récital 27, by simultaneously introducing four

The local time is logically displayed in hours and minutes at the

complications developed specifically to be housed within the

center of the timepiece while the secondary time zones appear

“writing slope” case.

at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively. Each of the secondary time zones

The success of the multiple time zones manufactured by BOVET

displays hours and minutes on a traditional 12-hour dial. A day/

1822 illustrates collectors’ growing interest for useful functionalities

night indicator prevents any confusion between morning and

as well as for ergonomic and intuitive timepieces that offer ease of

afternoon. Finally, an aperture displays the name of an iconic city

use. Using their extensive experience, the BOVET 1822 watchmakers

corresponding to the time zone indicated by the hands. For those

designed Récital 27 by making great use of the emblematic “writing

collectors who so desire, the city discs can be customized to indicate

slope” case’s proportions and thus meeting collectors’ expectations

the cities of their choice. Through its intuitive system of correctors,

by offering them no fewer than three time zones which can be set to

the three time zones can be set individually while adjusting for

winter or summer hours for each chosen location.

summer or winter hours.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 93

A dome moon phase indicator completes the information appearing

complexity, the non-visible portion requires multiple machining

on the timepiece’s dial. Its surface is engraved to evoke the lunar

phases in order to absorb the movement’s volume and optimize

surface and for heightened realism, the lower sections hand-filled

its thickness. The secondary time zones sectoral dials and the 12

with Superluminova®. The precision mechanism used to drive the

o’clock cartouche are completed by a magnificent guilloché inlay.

moon phase requires correction only once every 122 years.

To create these inlays, the artisans perform the guilloche and

The

movement’s

three-dimensional

display

reinforces

the

lacquering work on a single large circular plate. Only these three

“writing slope” case’s characteristic profile and the artisans’ talent

inlays are then machined. While extremely delicate, this method

is here harmoniously combined with the creative genius expressed

is the only one able to produce such quality and guarantee the

in the timepiece’s genuinely innovative architecture.

guillochage’s alignment between the three elements despite the

As they do characteristically, the dial-makers at BOVET 1822

large space separating them.

have expressed all of their virtuosity by designing a dial that is

The dial’s latticework reveals the ballet performed by the dials,

equally complex and dazzling. The machining of its base requires

the discs and the moon phase indicator and whose interweaving

great know-how, for while its visible portion reveals part of its

illustrates the watchmakers’ virtuosity. Turning-over the timepiece

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

showcases all of their talent. The bottom sapphire glass reveals

energy produced by a single barrel. This out of the ordinary energy

the entire movement. The collector will continuously discover new

balance is the result of a centuries-old mastery of great autonomy.

details illustrating the virtuosity displayed in the decoration of

Maison BOVET actually holds the world record with a timepiece

each component. This exceptional level of quality in the finishing

created at the dawn of the 20th century displaying a 370-day power

requires hundreds of hours of precision work following traditional

reserve! A performance that is useful for both timekeeping and for

methods that have made the reputation of BOVET 1822 for nearly

ensuring the collector’s comfort.

two centuries. Each component, visible or not, is thus decorated

This ideal autonomy is in complete coherence with the timepiece’s

according to the most exacting quality criteria and identical to

inherent functions and fulfills the needs of the modern collector

those applied to the manufacturing of Grande Complication by the

who is a keen traveler constantly interacting with the world and

BOVET 1822 workshops.

appreciates Bovet’s unique interpretation of the art of time.

This same face of the timepiece displays the seconds through a sectoral dial as well as the large 7 days’ power reserve obtained by the

Available in titanium grade 5 and in red gold 18K, Récital 27 is offered in a limited edition of 60 timepieces.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 95

TECHNIQUE DAVID CHOKRON

The demands of

transparency 96

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Red, pink, yellow, blue, smoked and transparent : six transparent sapphire case colors, a HUBLOT specialty.

More than ever, watches with sapphire cases represent peak expertise within the watchmaking industry. Not only because of their prices, but above all because they require a perfectly designed watch.

hether as a media stunt, to generate buzz or simply gracing an extraordinary watch, a transparent sapphire case represents a powerful tool. However,

times are changing and these models no longer have the same massive impact. Admittedly, a seven-digit price-tag is still a way of creating a stir as well as a powerful visual impression, but this approach is no longer the norm. However, while carving the flanks, bezel, lugs and bezel from corundum crystal is no longer exorbitantly expensive, this remains an exceptional phenomenon. 

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 97

GIRARD-PERREGAUX Quasar, the latest move

towards total transparency of the Neo Tourbillon with Three Bridges.

The FRANCK MULLER Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire is carved from a single block of sapphire, a process involving four months of work. BOVET Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter One, with which the high-tech yet

traditional brand ventured into the world of sapphire

HARD Sapphire remains the hardest material with which watchmaking is capable of working. While the material itself does not come cheap, it is a synthetic product – corundum crystal – created in laboratory conditions and therefore relatively commonplace. It has witnessed significant investment and progress. On a market buoyed by its use for scratch-resistant crystals, transparent backs, followed by glass boxes and more generally the expansion of high-end watchmaking, there are now many suppliers of sapphire components. They know how to cut, polish and drill it in all three dimensions. These operations, which are essential for use in watch decoration, require several dozen days of machining. Not to mention the rapid wear and tear of the cutting tools. The more complex and curved a component, the more time and money must be spent to achieve it. The price of sapphire therefore drives up the price of the watches it adorns. 

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

THE RM 056 FELIPE MASSA, which

sparked the whole trend, in 2012.

The H. MOSER & CIE Venturer Tourbillon Sapphire, a sapphire-set sapphire watch with a crazy price tag.

SPEAKE MARIN Supreme lightness,

ARMIN STROM Dual Time Resonance Sapphire,

the first all-sapphire minute repeater… and an automaton too.

eight monumental creations powered by a movement with extraordinary finishing.

REVEALING This is not only because sapphire is difficult to work with. It is also that by its very nature, it reveals everything, and is therefore particularly unforgiving of any potential flaws. Whether the sides, back or face, this material implies that nothing remains hidden, especially since the movements that fill these mineral chambers are skeletonized. They must therefore feature impeccable surface conditions on all sides, which explains why transparency is part of an entire approach. It was the maturity of openworked movements suspended in cases ‘full of emptiness’ that led to the emergence of sapphire. Even today, brands are slowly progressing towards this absolute transparency, in a process of design maturation. Girard-Perregaux’s Quasar began as the Neo Tourbillon with Three Bridges, before appearing in a skeleton version with an openworked mainplate, after which a sapphire body was added, replacing titanium.

100 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

From rough block to finished model, the sheer scope of the work done by Hublot in machining an ultra-hard and relatively costly material.

PAUL O’NEIL Chief Editor of WorldTempus.com

ne thing I noticed at the SIHH this year is that sapphire cases are getting even bigger and taking on even more unusual shapes. The sapphire case

PROMISING

for the Armin Strom Dual Time Resonance that David in-

Hublot has decided to issue such models as recurring series. To date, 23 differ-

cludes in his article (and which Timmy Tan included in his top

ent models have been the object of a limited, often colorful production. The

five complicated watches from the SIHH on WorldTempus

latest models were presented at the SIHH : a Spirit of Big Bang in bright yellow

– click on the QR code below to read his article), for example,

or indigo blue, and Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days in red or blue.

takes the width of sapphire cases to a new extreme. It’s also

Yet the strength of the brand has been to offer different price levels accord-

a great showcase for Saphirwerk, the Swiss company that

ing to the degree of sophistication of its designs. The entry-level-priced models

makes its debut in watch case production with the Armin

have attracted a new clientele to this niche. The SIHH 2019 and its peripheral

Strom Dual Time Resonance. Bovet also introduced its first

exhibitions offered stronger than ever proof that sapphire cases are on the rise.

sapphire case in its highly complicated “writing desk” shape,

At Franck Muller, Bovet, Speake Marin and Armin Strom, watches that are not

which is curved and angled towards the wearer. Additional

necessarily overpriced have appeared in a wide range of styles.

metal supports and metal lugs were required on this case for technical reasons, which makes me wonder whether we are

EXTREME

reaching the limits of the use of sapphire.

One must however give credit where credit is due. Richard Mille was the first to offer an all-sapphire watch in 2012, the RM 056 Felipe Massa. It was followed by two other models, in extremely small and exorbitantly expensive series, which is entirely logical within the brand’s universe. Then came a ladies’ version, the RM 07-02 Pink Lady Sapphire, which introduced pink-tinted sapphire. Since then, the brand has taken a break, creating a void into which a dozen brands have rushed, much to the delight of the public.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 101

HISTORY FADI JAMIL

Breguet

Classique 5177 Email Bleu Grand Feu

History updated

102 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel CASE : 18K white gold with fluted caseband, curved and welded lugs, sapphire

caseback, water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 38mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Caliber 777Q, 55h power reserve), Swiss lever escapement and balance-spring in silicon, gold rotor, hand finishing on a rose engine FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : Grand Feu enamel, hollow-tipped stainless steel hands STRAP : blue alligator leather with white gold pin buckle

omprising some 30 contemporary references for women

Maison in the Vallée de Joux. Achieving exactly the desired final

and men, the Classique collection undoubtedly best

color after firing the dial at 800°C is no mean feat. In this case,

embodies the quintessence of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s

the shade sought here is none other than that of the signature

original style and expertise. In terms of form, he favored a refined

blued Breguet hands. Even Breguet’s secret signature, equidistant

aesthetic that went against the tendencies of an 18th century

from the center and the 6 hours, is enameled. Striking a pleasing

brimming with baroque style features, and his peers eventually

contrast with this mesmerizing depth of the dial and enhancing its

adopted the same approach. With regard to technical substance,

legibility, the hour-markers and numerals stand out in silver-toned

the shape of the wheels of Caliber 777Q is a nod to that of creations

relief, while the hollow-tipped hands are rhodium-plated. The

introduced during the late 18th century, which saw the birth of the

eminently discreet and functional 3 o’clock date display is perfectly

Breguet oscillating weight serving to enhance the reliability of his

integrated, while its geometry adds a welcome rectangular note to

first self-winding watch. Named perpétuelle watches by the maestro

this ocean of curves.

himself, the self-winding timepieces he designed increased

Visible through the back of the finely fluted gold case, self-

his reputation, opening the doors of Versailles and other major

winding Caliber 777Q complete with a silicon balance spring

European courts. In 1780, the Duke of Orléans acquired the first

appears in all its splendor, particularly its oscillating weight in

perpétuelle, a watch that was to enjoy a right royal career.

18-carat hand-crafted on a rose engine. Many other elements

In 2019, Breguet is cultivating the most traditional

of the numbered and signed Breguet movement, whether

watchmaking elegance by adding a modern chromatic touch

visible or not, benefit from the rare refined finishes provided

to the neoclassical lines of its most understated watch family. Grand Feu enamel is thus attired in Breguet blue for the first time in a current collection,

by the watchmakers of the Manufacture : beveling, circular graining, fine brushing and Côtes de Genève motifs. Artists, aesthetes, purists : while the Classique 5177

reflecting with admirable panache the dexterity of

Grand Feu Blue Enamel is not within reach of all, its

the artisans exercising this delicate art within the

circle of influence is truly universal.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 103

PHOTOSHOOT EDOUARD HAEGI

he call of the mountains expressed through the comfort and traditional materials of fine Crans-Montana hotels serve as the inspiration and backdrop for this seasonal GMT photoshoot. The colors, shapes

and materials of the watches reflect the style and creativity of the brands, whether independent or belonging to major watch groups.

104 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

JAEGER-LECOULTRE REVERSO TRIBUTE DUOFACE LARGE

BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS BATHYSCAPHE BUCHERER BLUE EDITIONS

BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO SKELETON

GLASHÜTTE SENATOR COSMOPOLITE

JACOB & CO. EPIC-X CHRONO ROSE GOLD

MAURICE LACROIX AIKON AUTOMATIC BRONZE

URBAN JÜRGENSEN THE ALFRED

ZOOM FADI JAMIL

Golden Moments OMEGA hosts a star-filled tribute to the 50th anniversary of the first lunar landing with George Clooney and an impressive line-up of NASA veterans; including Charlie Duke and Thomas Stafford.

t was a gathering of greats at Florida’s Kennedy Space

of media attention, the self-effacing actor was determined to

Center when OMEGA paid tribute to the mission that

ensure the spotlight stayed focused on his fellow guests. “It’s a

made history.

great pleasure to be here - and an honor. I have enormous respect

After a day of discussions on a range of space-related

subjects, media and VIP guests enjoyed a “Golden Moments”

for the people who made the Apollo missions such a success.” George Clooney was joined on stage by veteran of four NASA

dinner served beneath the impressive Saturn 5 rocket, which was

space missions and commander of Apollo 10 Lieutenant General

attended by George Clooney, Amal Clooney, Charlie Duke and

Thomas Stafford, along with CAPCOM for Apollo 11 and Apollo 16

Thomas Stafford.

lunar module pilot Charlie Duke.

Clearly proud of the Swiss brand’s claim-to-fame as the first

Reflecting on the pioneering spirit of the Apollo era, Charlie

watch worn on the Moon, President and CEO of OMEGA Mr.

Duke described it as an exciting time but stressed that the

Raynald Aeschlimann summed up the spirit of the occasion. “It’s

success of the 1969 mission was down to hard work and

a huge achievement to land on another world. I can’t think of a

commitment. “We were heading to the Moon, but we were also

better reason to raise a glass in tribute.”

grounded, very realistic, and we never took success for granted,

Though OMEGA Ambassador George Clooney drew a great deal

112 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

not once.”

Apollo 10’s Thomas Stafford talked about the “alien yet familiar”

To mark the 50th anniversary OMEGA has released a 42 mm

qualities of the lunar surface, and spoke proudly of his role in

Speedmaster in 18K Moonshine™ gold - an exclusive new alloy

Apollo 11’s glory. “It was a great honor for me to play my part in the

which offers a paler hue than traditional yellow gold and higher

successful mission that followed.”

resistance to fading over time. The design is replete with lunar

Also in attendance were Astronaut and artist Nicole Stott, NASA

history as well as modern materials and a superb new movement:

pilot and ISS commander Terry Virts, ESA astronaut and NASA

OMEGA’s Master Chronometer Calibre 3861- a manual-winding

veteran Jean-François Clervoy, and former NASA engineer and the

OMEGA Co-Axial escapement movement with Moonshine™ gold

man behind the Moonwatch, Jim Ragan.

plated main plate and bridges, as well as burgundy markings.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 113

THE FIRST WATCH WORN ON THE MOON

#MOONWATCH

On the 50th anniversary of the first lunar landing, OMEGA is reflecting on the golden moments that defined that iconic day. While our own Speedmaster was strapped to the wrists of the astronauts, George Clooney was looking up towards the moon where his heroes were making history.

More information available at OMEGA Middle East, Emirates Towers, Dubai, UAE. Tel: +971 4 3300455