GMT MIDDLE EAST EDITION 26 - SEPTEMBER 2019

Interview Guy Bove

TAG Heuer Product Director

TECHNIQUE Richard Mille From the ocean to the wrist SAGA IWC Schaffhausen

Bvlgari OCTO FINISSIMO GMT ME No 26 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2019

26

9 771660 110613

We assemble every single watch twice.

For us, the quest for perfection is a matter of principle. That’s why we

adjusted, it is taken apart again. The movement parts are then

craft every timepiece with the same care. One of our principles is the

cleaned and decorated by hand with intricate finishing and pol-

twofold assembly of every watch. Thus, after the GRAND LANGEÂ 1

ishing techniques. This is followed by the final assembly proce-

MOON PHASE has been assembled for the first time and precisely

dure. When complicated timepieces are involved, this approach

Because perfection takes time.

is indispensable because the process of fine-tuning different

This assures long-term functional integrity and the immaculacy

mechanisms requires the repeated removal and reinsertion of

of all artisanal finishes. And regardless of how tiny or hidden

components. But even less complicated models that are focused

a part is: each one – on principle – is individually decorated. Even

on indicating the time are systematically assembled twice.

if all this takes a little more time. www.alange-soehne.com

You are cordially invited to discover the collection at:

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3/6/19 12

www.louismoinet.com

EDITORIAL AUTUMN 2019

O

n Friday 12th of July, the names of the 109 brands competing for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève were unveiled.

Raymond Loretan, the successor to Carlo Lamprecht, made an impressive start to his tenure as head of the Foundation of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Since the new president’s arrival last year,

a number of new categories have been introduced: the challenge category, open to watches under 4,000 Swiss Francs, Diver’s, and iconic for men’s and women’s watches from an iconic collection that has made a lasting impression on the history of the watch market for over 25 years.

The calendar and Astronomy category makes a comeback this year, as does the Horological Revelation prize, created to reward the talents of promising young brand.

Bovet 1822, winner of the Aiguille d’Or in 2018 for the Recital 22 Grand Recital, is not allowed to take part in the 2019 edition, but the company’s owner, Pascal Raffy, will be on the jury. Once again, there was no shortage of watch brands who responded to the call to enter one or more of their models for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

The 109 brands in contention include both old stalwarts who wouldn’t miss it for the world, and another independent or less well - known brands dipping their toes in the water of the first time.

The 196 watches competing for the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève were unveiled on the GPHG’s official website on the 12th of July 2019. Entry levels were higher than last year just with 196 entries compared to 195!!

Until next issue, FADI JAMIL I Publisher, Editor-in-Chief

GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com Head of Creative / Graphic Designer: KYLE EVIDENTE | creative@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com

GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma © Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

GMT MIDDLE EAST NO26 | AUTUMN 2019

CONTENTS AUTUMN 2019

78 42

30 EDITORIAL 32 CONTENTS 36 CONTRIBUTORS

BUSINESS 38 HOT NEWS 78 INTERVIEW | Guy Bove | TAG Heuer Product Director 96 TECHNIQUE | Richard Mille: From the ocean to the wrist

104 NEW RELEASES

LIFESTYLE

62 COVER STORY

58 EDITOR’S PICK

Octo Finissimo Chronograph

Race against the clock

GMT Automatic: A fifth world record for

60 EDITOR’S PICK

Bvlgari

64 FINE WATCH CLUB World Première

66 ONLY WATCH 2019 Heading for a record edition?

Time lighter than air

98 PHOTOSHOOT | Air-Land-Sea 104 AIR-LAND-SEA 106 BEST OF 2019

68 EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES 88 SAGA IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Legitimacy for the Longest Flight

62 32

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

DEFI MILLENNIUM

A DISTINCT SENSE OF STYLE LIGHTWEIGHT. HIGH PERFORMANCE.

WWW.ST-DUPONT.COM

CONTENTS AUTUMN 2019

82 Focus

Close-up view of 7 new releases

82 PATEK PHILIPPE A melodious alarm

83 ROLEX Very sporty and super chic

84 ROGER DUBUIS Making (light) waves

85 TRILOBE The merry-go-round of time

86 ULYSSE NARDIN

82

Bronze and silicon torpedo ship

87 VACHERON CONSTANTIN Calendar rhapsody in blue

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

CONTRIBUTORS

Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor, Brice Lechevalier, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.

Brice Lechevalier Involved in all aspects of the magazine, the founder seeks to convey a sense of pleasure to readers through the various articles.

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Cloé Mugny

Marie De Pimodan

Christophe Persoz

A member of the GMT Publishing team, this translator by training contributes to the Editor’s Picks column.

An expert watch journalist who presents new models as well as handling the Craftsmanship column.

This experienced watchmaker analyzes a model that he wears for an entire week before delivering his technical and aesthetic verdict.

Paul O’Neil

Michèle Brunner

David Chokron

The editor-in-chief of WorldTempus. com shares his insights on our feature articles based on his website’s coverage of the subject.

An experienced member of the GMT Publishing editorial team, she reports on brand events and products.

An expert watch journalist, he provides content for our Tech Insights column as well as presenting the latest new models.

Camille Guille

Edouard Haegi

Serge Panczuk

With a pseudo like perpetual.girl, how could one not take an interest in the instagram accounts she recommends ?

Edouard Haegi is our inhouse photographer/videomaker, who also handles the Watch Photo Awards.

This California-based collector is also a keen traveler who shares his extremely personal vision of what a watch is and what it “tells” us.

ADORED F E E LIN G L I K E T H E ONLY PE R S ON I N TH E WOR LD

+971 4 364 7555 jumeirah.com

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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

NEW RICHARD MILLE PARTNER:

• •

HEPTATHLETE, 53 SPANISH RECORDS CROWNED WORLD CHAMPION UNDER 18 HEPTATHLON IN 2017

•

GOLD MEDALLIST AT THE EUROPEAN UNDER 18 CHAMPIONSHIPS IN 2018

Maria Vicente up and coming, fast and winning!

MARIA VICENTE not only breaks records, she breaks them in

only did she beat the required performance, she smashed it by

record time! The irrepressible new star of Spanish athletics

six whole seconds, coming in at a breath-taking 2.16:29 and

stormed in to win this weekend’s European under 20’s

becoming the first ever Spanish woman to exceed 6,000 points,

Championships in Boras, Sweden. It will therefore come as no

topping the heptathlon podium at a dizzying 6150.

surprise that she has also become the latest—and youngest— member of the Richard Mille family.

Sprinting through the impressively long list of titles and trophies

are not pressure—she sees them as pure motivación! Conscious

the young Catalan has already notched up, you have to keep

that what she has achieved so far is impressive, Maria warns

reminding yourself that Maria is—still—a mere 18 years old! She is

that it is nothing compared to what comes next, intoning ‘you

already, and by a long stretch, Spain’s best-ever female heptathlete,

ain’t seen nothing yet,’with a Catalan accent.

having broken no less than 53 Spanish records and being crowned

No wonder, then, that Maria Vicente lines up in the starting

World Champion Under 18 Heptathlon (in 2017) before striking

blocks as a winning new addition to the Richard Mille family by

Gold at last year’s European U-18 Championships, not to mention

wearing the RM 007 Titanium.

finding time to bring home the World Record U-18 Heptathlon.

This weekend’s Gold at Boras was achieved in typically

38

Having already won so much, Maria knows full well that people are expecting a lot more of her. Expectations of this kind

‘I am honored to be part of the Richard Mille family, who supported me from the first day of our relationship. The Richard

spectacular fashion. Not only did she surpass the rest of the

Mille story is truly inspiring for everyone and I share the same

field, but above all, she tore up her own personal bests. Maria

motivation about aiming continuously for the best beyond any

went into the final event knowing she had already outperformed

limits. This weekend was my first competition with a Richard

herself in javelin, throwing 44.18 metres, a lengthy 5 metres

Mille watch on my wrist. I never felt comfortable wearing a

further than her previous best. Everything was on the line in the

watch when competing, but the experience with this watch

800 metres, which took place in the pouring rain. As the starting

could not have been better. I was not only wearing a beautiful

gun fired, Maria knew she would have to turn in the run of her

and modern machine on my wrist, I also felt extremely

life and knock several decimal points off a time of 2.24:79. Not

comfortable with it.’

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

MANUFACTURE CALIBRE ARF15 16½’’’

MIRRORED FORCE RESONANCE GUILLOCHÉ DIAL

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Two Omega Timepieces for the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020 Countdown

WE ARE NOW JUST ONE YEAR AWAY from the start of the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020! As the countdown continues and the anticipation builds, OMEGA is releasing two new Tokyo 2020 Limited Edition watches to celebrate the event.

OMEGA has been the Official Timekeeper of the Olympic Games on 28 occasions since 1932. As well as recording the dreams of history’s greatest athletes, the brand has also developed and evolved many of the most sophisticated timekeeping technologies in the world of sport. When Tokyo 2020 begins on the 24th of July 2020, OMEGA will be at the event for the 29th time, continuing its proud legacy behind the clock.

40

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

IWC Schaffhausen announces Tom Brady as Global Brand Ambassador SCHAFFHAUSEN, 25TH JUNE 2019 – IWC Schaffhausen is pleased to announce its partnership with iconic athlete Tom Brady.

With six Super Bowl titles, four Super Bowl MVP Awards,

but their precise engineering and attention to detail,” said

three League MVP Awards, and 16 Division titles – Tom Brady

Brady. “I am excited to be part of the IWC family and look

embodies greatness. IWC and Brady are both best in class and

forward to collaborating with their talented team to share

their shared principles of excellence and timeless style make

the brand’s unique heritage globally.”

their partnership a seamless fit.

Brady is a champion who always strives for excellence.

Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen,

After being drafted by the New England Patriots as the

said: “Tom Brady is arguably the best quarterback of all

199th pick of the 2000 NFL draft, he has won six Super

time, but also an admired role model. On the field, his

Bowl championships with the team, more than any other

focus is on performance and precision; off the field, he is a

quarterback in NFL history.

true gentleman, incredible father and husband while also embodying elegance and style.”

Tom Brady is a world-class athlete, modern day icon

Brady’s unprecedented football career includes a multitude of NFL records. He is the first player in NFL history to accumulate 80,000 total yards. Brady also holds the most

and a connoisseur of haute horlogerie. His collection

game wins of any quarterback, is the alltime leader in

includes several IWC watches, among them a Pilot’s Watch

passing yards and has the most career touchdown passes of

Chronograph TOP GUN Miramar and the iconic Portugieser

any player in history.

Perpetual Calendar.

42

“I am honored to be partnering with IWC Schaffhausen, a brand I’ve long admired, not only for their timeless design

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Breitling to partner with Ironman on new luxury Timepiece: The Breitling Superocean Ironman® Limited Edition NEW YORK, NY/TAMPA, FL, JULY 26, 2019 – It was announced

of our Triathlon Squad have all distinguished themselves in

today that Breitling has partnered with IRONMAN, a Wanda

IRONMAN® events. Jan Frodeno won back-to-back IRONMAN®

Sports Group company, in launching the Breitling Superocean

World Championships in 2015 and 2016, and Chris ‘Macca’

IRONMAN® Limited Edition timepiece. As part of the

McCormack has also claimed two titles – in 2007 and 2010.

partnership, Breitling becomes the Official Luxury Watch

It goes without saying that Daniela Ryf’s accomplishments

of IRONMAN® and will also be present at several events,

have been spectacular: she is the reigning IRONMAN® World

including the IRONMAN® 70.3® World Championship in Nice,

Champion, having won four straight titles along with her

France, and the 2019 Vega® IRONMAN® World Championship

four IRONMAN® 70.3® World Championships in the last five

in Kailua-Kona, Hawai’i.

years. The sport has enjoyed enormous popularity and the

To celebrate the partnership and offer a first look at the watch, a special event was held at the Breitling boutique in New York City last night, cohosted by Breitling USA President

Breitling’s values perfectly.”

The IRONMAN® Triathlon Series offers athletes the

Thierry Prissert and Andrew Messick, President and CEO of The

opportunity to push themselves further than they ever

IRONMAN Group. Over 150 guests attended the event, among

thought possible by swimming 2.4 miles (3.8 kilometers),

them Paula Newby-Fraser – known as the Queen of Kona,

cycling 112 miles (180 kilometers), and running 26.2 miles

who earned the title after winning the IRONMAN® World

(42.2 kilometers) en route to completing one of the world’s

Championship eight times – and Mike Reilly, the Voice of

most challenging single-day endurance races and earning the

IRONMAN®. Also at the event were some of the elite athletes

coveted title of IRONMAN. Since its inception in 1978, the

who will be participating in the ViewSPORT® IRONMAN®

IRONMAN® triathlon has come to represent the ultimate test

Lake Placid triathlon, set to take place in Lake Placid, NY, on

of body, mind, and spirit for both professional and amateur

July 28, 2019.

athletes. The competition stages – swimming, cycling, and

The partnership with IRONMAN® is ideal for Breitling,

running – are activities that feature prominently in the

bringing two premium brands together for the first time.

lifestyles of Breitling’s core customer base: men and women of

Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling, said, “We’re particularly

action, purpose, and style.

excited to be working with IRONMAN®. The three members

44

performance and endurance of its great competitors reflect

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

GRAND LANGE 1 “25th Anniversary” LARGER, THINNER, INIMITABLE THE GRAND LANGE 1 is 2,5 millimetre larger than the classic

movement diameter of 34.1 millimetres allows a more

LANGE 1. The fact that the dial proportions are enlarged in

compact arrangement with only one spring barrel. Thus, in

comparison with the original is not visible, except when the

comparison with the LANGE 1, the case is thinner but the

two models are viewed side by side. To celebrate the 25th

power reserve is still 72 hours.

anniversary of the LANGE 1, the GRAND LANGE 1 is now also

is graced with thermally blued steel hands and blue

accents.

inscriptions. A blue alligator leather strap and a white-gold

The special facet of the GRAND LANGE 1 is what doesn’t meet the eye, at least not right away. On the asymmetrical

prong buckle emphasise the elegance of the watch.

Visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback, the

dial, the proportionally enlarged displays for the time, the

movement consists of 397 parts lavishly finished by hand.

outsize date and the power-reserve indicator are arranged

Seven of the 42 bearing jewels are seated in gold chatons

so that they do not overlap. What at first seemed trivial had

secured with blued screws. The oscillator, composed of

far-reaching consequences: Because the hand arbors had to

a classic screw balance and a Lange balance spring, is

be slightly shifted toward the periphery, it was necessary to

suspended beneath a hand-engraved balance cock. The

develop a bespoke movement for this model.

discreet signature of the “25th Anniversary” collection is

The manually wound calibre L095.1 reflects the prominent dial architecture down to the smallest detail. The larger

46

The argenté-coloured, recessed dial of the special model

available in a 25-watch limited edition in white gold with blue

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

integrated in its blue-filled motif: a framed 25 that echoes the Lange outsize date.

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Relocation of the Richard Mille Boutique London to iconic Old Bond Street RICHARD MILLE is delighted to announce the relocation of

or fractured glass. Immediately as they set foot through the

their London flagship boutique to exquisite new premises

door, visitors will be immersed in a Richard Mille boutique

in London’s iconic Old Bond Street. This legendary

experience with a larger than life RM 008 Tourbillon

neighbourhood, situated only a few steps away from the Royal

Chronograph etched into three laser engraved, triple glass

Academy of Arts and the most famous of London’s five-star

panels weighing more than 1,000 pounds in total.

hotels, is host to several of the world’s most exclusive luxury

watchmaker at work in a glass enclosed, dust free work area.

makes it three times larger than the previous location, and is

A tonneau shape atrium opens on the lower storey with a view

sure to make the hearts of Richard Mille clients and collectors

of the VIP lounge, created to offer our clients the ultimately

beat faster when they visit the metropolis.

pleasurable and relaxing boutique experience with its well-

Peter Harrison, CEO of Richard Mille Europe, Middle East

stocked walk-in wine cellar and cigar cabinet. Other classic

and Africa comments: “London is a pivotal city for Richard

cues of the brand include a library containing selected art

Mille’s local clientele, in addition to its status as a global

books by Éditions Cercle d’Art, the Parisian publishing house

city that welcomes high numbers of international visitors.

of Picasso and Braque, under the ownership of the Richard

For us, the relocation to such a famed area that showcases

Mille Group.

London’s premiere eminence in the world of luxury is truly

Passionate Richard Mille owners, collectors and everyone

a milestone. With our goal of providing clients an ultimate

desiring to learn more about the brand will be able to

luxury experience, the new premises allow us to increase the

experience a selection of the brand’s finest timepieces, from

boutique’s capacity, thereby offering clientele an increased

Ladies’ and Gents’ automatic and complicated timepieces, to

number of timepieces to choose from”.

sports watches developed specifically in close collaboration

Occupying two floors, the new Bond Street location is a perfect showcase for several of Richard Mille’s emblematic boutique features such as Wenge wood parquet, Sophie Mallebranche’s cream wallpaper, and walls in black leather

48

On the ground floor, guests are able to view the on-site

brands. The new boutique, spanning over 300 square metres,

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

with friends of the brand from almost every sport imaginable.

The Richard Mille boutique is located at 4-5 Old Bond Street in Mayfair and is open Monday to Saturday from 10:00 to 18:00.

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

A journey through space and time – Moritz Grossmann presents MOON in SPACE in London IT’S IMPRESSIVE AND MYSTICAL. The Moon has fascinated

characteristic of MOON in SPACE: with a diameter of 44.5

mankind for millennia. As Earth’s closest celestial body, it has

mm, the case is almost twice as large as the just 26.0 mm

inspired poets and philosophers and spurred on researchers

Calibre 102.0 – an enormous different that MOON in SPACE

and astronauts, and it still influences people today. With its

overcomes with elegant ease.

regular orbit around the Earth, it sustains the tides, acts as a marker for dividing our year into months and is therefore an

winding crown on the case and fixed in place with four

essential timekeeper for life on Earth.

black gold-plated bars. The bars bridge the height difference

The independent Glashütte manufactory Moritz Grossmann

between the edge of the case and the movement holding

let the beauty, radiance and power of the Moon guide it,

ring, and their bold design echoes the four antennas shooting

capturing its magic in a timepiece with a special brilliance:

out from Earth’s first satellite, Sputnik 1. Sapphire crystal

MOON in SPACE is a homage to Earth’s fascinating companion

with an antireflective coating provides a view of the support

and combines time and space in bold aesthetics and maximum

elements and sophisticated structure of MOON in SPACE and

precision.

reinforces the impression of open space and movement.

The dial face features three celestial bodies, which appear to

A deep black case with matte, diamond-like substance

move freely through the universe: a silver, shimmering Moon

symbolises the darkness of the universe. It gets its

with a textured surface serves as a striking fixed point. Two

extraordinary look from an exquisite diamond-like carbon

smaller dials, one for the hour and minute and another for the

(DLC) treatment, where the stainless steel is carbon-coated

seconds, sit in the foreground in front of the Moon.

in a chemical vapour deposition process. The result is a

The different sizes of the dials make exciting use of proportions and play with the size variation concept

50

The movement is positioned in a holding ring at the

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

blackened, extremely hard surface permanently protected from scratches, wear and corrosion.

Tel: +971 4 8880017

www.chronometer.ae

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

“ANONIMO Team Of Pioneers”: a new real-life adventure FOR SEVERAL YEARS, ANONIMO has been forging links with

functionality through its imposing case with its distinctive yet

different sports, but the brand is above all a story of passionate

neat design. Whether on a MILITARE or NAUTILO, the clean

men. A new community, represented by four Swiss to start

dial ensures its full readability.

with, has been born with the name of ANONIMO “Team of

maximum potential, keeping off the beaten path, being

of ANONIMO, and lovers of outdoor activities, dream.

bold but taking humble risks, these are the common values

Far from the titles of ambassadors or famous celebrities,

between ANONIMO and its new Team of Pioneers. Discovering

ANONIMO, as its name suggests, prefers sobriety. Quickly

niche products, or activities away from the crowds but which

seduced by the personalities it has met, as well as by their

are accessible to everyone, albeit for a only a short while that

sporting versatility, ANONIMO has chosen to ally itself

it makes all the effort worthwhile - and all with the taste of

to those athletes that might chose to keep themselves

a job well done ... Anonymity, staying true to yourself and

in the shade, but who, nevertheless, are masters of their

knowing what really counts, is this not true luxury?

discipline, and to share their universe, whether it is sea or

The adventures of these pioneers, #TeamofPioneers, will be

mountain. Without always looking to time their exploits,

able to be discovered regularly, whether they are braving the

every ANONIMO wearer keeps an eye on the time that passes.

wilds of nature or recharging their batteries at the heart of a

With an aestheticism inspired by Italian elegance, and the

spectacular event.

particularity of bronze, an ANONIMO watch visually expresses

52

Opening new routes, preparing material to give it its

Pioneers”. They will share their experiences to make the fans

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

A forthcoming timepiece will immortalise this commitment

Hublot is committed to helping protect the Rhinoceros and is now Partnering Sorai – Save Our Rhinos Africa and India HUBLOT HAS JOINED IN PARTNERSHIP with Kevin Pietersen

world’s rhinos, and the majority of poaching incidents take

and SORAI (Save Our Rhinos Africa and India) to protect the

place in Kruger national park.

rhinoceros, which is facing extinction. The ex-international cricket star, and Brand ambassador, is now able to dedicate

Following his prestigious cricketing career, working in

huge herbivorous mammals, found in Africa and in Asia, now

rhino conservation was an obvious move for Kevin Pietersen

a matter of urgency for the planet and our future generations.

to make, as he is passionately devoted to this crucial cause. He

Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, is currently in South Africa

founded SORAI in 2018 to support the various organisations

to launch this partnership with Kevin Pietersen. To seal this

- comprising rangers, nutritionists, ecologists and other

collaboration, the watch Manufacture has developed a watch

specialists - who strive every day to save, care for, and ensure

which will be unveiled very soon.

the complete rehabilitation of every mammal found in Africa

Hunted for their highly valuable horns, two thirds of

and Asia. This global initiative is designed to raise public

species could be lost in our lifetime. To help prevent this,

awareness, to inform and educate to initiate a change in

abandoned, injured, or orphaned baby rhinos are located and

behaviour, and to raise funds to build up the resources and

cared for by teams of specialists actively supported by Kevin

equipment needed for these rhino conservation, monitoring

Pietersen, before being released back into the wild as soon as

and care activities to continue their essential work.

they are ready. South Africa is home to more than 80% of the

54

THE ACTIONS OF KEVIN PIETERSEN – SORAI

himself entirely to a cause very close to his heart: saving these

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

LE CIRQUE: The greatest culinary show on earth.

A timeless classic originating from New York, experience Le Cirque's famed French cuisine, with a twist of Italian flair, at the sleek and elevated setting of Dubai.

The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC For restaurant reservations, email difcrestaurants@ritzcarlton.com or call +971 4 372 2323

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

One week of captivating competitions and exceptional performances at the Longines FEI European Championships 2019 FROM 19 TO 25 AUGUST, the city of Rotterdam (NL) hosted

German team captured the victory in the Longines FEI Dressage

the Longines FEI European Championships 2019, bringing

European Championship on Tuesday. On Friday, the Belgian

together the best European riders and horses in the disciplines

Show Jumping team won the gold medal in the Longines FEI

of Jumping, Dressage and Para-Dressage. As the Title Partner

Jumping European Championship. Longines also celebrated the

of this much-awaited rendezvous, Longines was delighted

victory of Isabell Werth in the Dressage Grand Prix Freestyle,

to celebrate the performances of great athletes, alongside

as well as the win of team Netherlands in the Para-Dressage

its Ambassadors of Elegance, Dressage champion Sönke

team competitions, on Saturday. The following day, Swiss rider

Rothenberger, as well as sports legend Stefanie Graf. The

Martin Fuchs took brilliant victory in the Individual Jumping

winged hourglass brand was also proud to highlight the

competition, and received an elegant watch from the hands of

Official Watch of the event, a blue model from its famous

Longines Ambassador of Elegance and sport’s legend, Stefanie

HydroConquest collection.

Graf, invited by the brand on that special occasion.

As part of its long-lasting commitment to equestrian sports,

Sönke Rothenberger, as well as elegant riders Matt Harnacke, Anne

Longines FEI European Championships 2019, held from 19 to 25

Meulendijks, Lotte Meulendijks, This Esme and Olivia Towers for a

August in Rotterdam (NL). As per the previous edition held in

Meet & Greet in the Longines Boutique located at the venue.

Gothenburg (SE) in 2017, Longines was honoured to be the Title

During this thrilling week of competitions, Longines was

Partner, Official Timekeeper and Official Watch of this year’s

pleased to highlight the Official Watch of the event, a blue

event, bringing together the best European riders and horses in

model from the HydroConquest collection. Highly technical

the disciplines of Jumping, Dressage and Para-Dressage.

and innovative ceramic has been added to the bezel of the new

The brand was pleased to grant the winners in the different

56

On Saturday, Longines and the FEI were also delighted to host

the Swiss watch brand Longines was proud to take part in the

HydroConquest models. Available in grey, black or blue, this

disciplines with elegant timepieces as a reward for their

scratch-resistant insert matches the colour of the dial, ties

remarkable performances. Among these great achievements,

together the fully modernized design and sporty silhouette of

Longines Ambassador of Elegance, Sönke Rothenberger, and the

this collection.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

EDITOR’S PICK CLOÉ MUGNY

Race against the clock Mechanics is all about non-stop progress. Racing cars are ever faster and more efficient ; sports watches ever sturdier and more accurate. Drivers push their limits to improve their times and break new records. Racing against others, against themselves, against the clock.

MECCANICHE VELOCI

BREITLING Premier B01

QuattroValvole

Chronograph 42 Bentley

Nardi Edition

Centenary Limited Edition

REBELLION T2M Zenvo

Nik_Merkulov/stock.adobe.com

HUBLOT Classic Fusion Ferrari GT

58

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Le Richemond Geneva

DISCOVER A LAKESIDE ESCAPE A BREATH OF SWISS FRESH AIR AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF THE ALPS BREATHTAKING VIEWS ON THE JET D’EAU AND THE MONT BLANC FRENCH SEASONAL CUISINE AT LE JARDIN RESTAURANT LE SPA BY SISLEY & FITNESS CELEBRATION OF MEMORABLE EVENTS

Jardin Brunswick | 1201 Geneva | Switzerland lerichemond.com

#MYRichemond

EDITOR’S PICK CLOÉ MUGNY

Time lighter than air Far from terra firma, above the clouds, with endless blue stretching as far as the eye can see, all directions seem confusingly similar… Time measurement tools are therefore essential to enable pilots to find their bearings in the air. Without them, it is difficult to keep track of time and not get lost amid the vast expanses of the open sky.

ZENITH

FAVRE-LEUBA

Pilot Type 20 Silver

Raider Bivouac 9000

C

M

Y

CM

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Montre d’Aviateur Chronographe Spitfire

GIRARDPERREGAUX Laureato Skeleton

icedea/stock.adobe.com

“Earth to Sky” Edition

60

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

MY

CY

CMY

K

Rue de la Chapelle 8 1207 Genève

COVER STORY BRICE LECHEVALIER

Octo Finissimo

Chronograph GMT Automatic : a fifth world record for Bvlgari

62

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

L

ast summer we chose to include on the cover of GMT

measuring just 3.3mm thick and the case a mere 6.9mm. The

the Octo Finissimo Automatic in titanium, the world’s

chronograph has established itself in the contemporary watch-

thinnest automatic watch, winner of the Grand Prix

making world as the most emblematic expression of masculi-

d’Horlogerie de Genève in the Men’s category. This is the mo-

nity, brilliantly displaying the spirit of sport and performance,

del chosen for its inaugural series by the Fine Watch Club – the

even though in practice the function is not often used. It is

first international watch owners’ clubs – whose members are

rarely associated with the GMT function, which itself is more

looking forward to their special series. It was not Bvlgari’s first

frequently used by travelers crossing various time zones. Bvlgari

foray into the highly coveted niche of watchmaking thinness,

impresses by its ability to combine these complications in an

synonymous with technical know-how and aesthetic success.

efficient and aesthetically pleasing way. The pairing really

The Octo Finissimo collection already held world records for the

works well and the Octo Finissimo retains the power of its sleek,

thinness of its automatic tourbillon, minute repeater and auto-

modern and distinctive design, with home time appearing at 3

matic three-hand model. With the all-new Chronograph GMT

o’clock on a 24-hour graduated counter. Now that its mechani-

presented at Baselworld 2019, not only has the Manufacture

cal content has proven its worth with a blend of audacity and

based in Neuchâtel set a fifth world record, but it also gains a

dependability – all at a very reasonable price-quality ratio – vi-

comfortable lead, since this model is 40% thinner than of the

sionary collectors and lovers of iconic watches would do well to

nearest competitor ! Imagine 318 components expertly fitted

invest in the collection before its very success results in a long

inside a five-franc coin, a feat comparable to this movement

waiting list.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 63

THE FINE WATCH CLUB BRICE LECHEVALIER

BVLGARI started off the series of limited editions available

for members with 12 pieces of the the titanium Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Automatic, the record-holding world’s thinnest automatic watch and winner at the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

Fine Watch Club World Première

The first international multi-brand watch owner’s club was

1. Limited Series : created by major watch brands exclusively

the quality of its diverse offers. Events with members have

2. Events : for example, a VIP manufacture visit or an exclusive

watch manufactures where high watchmaking brands cre-

3. Mystery : for example, an accessory related to watches, a

are as varied as they are distinctive in their excellence. For

4. Privilege : the club’s managers use their contacts to delve

exclusive pieces in limited quantities from Bvlgari, Zenith,

els that are no longer available on the market, but whose

launched in summer 2019 and is impressing many with been held all over the world, but mainly in Switzerland’s ating limited editions for the Fine Watch Club members the first six months, the Fine Watch Club will be offering

TAG Heuer, Girard-Perregeaux, Frédérique Constant, Ulysse Nardin and Maurice Lacroix.

FOUR TYPES OF OFFERS RESERVED FOR MEMBERS Members are offered a weekly private sale of four different types :

64

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

for members of the Fine Watch Club watchmaking event

watchmaking experience or a piece of jewelry

into the back drawers of watch manufacture to find mod-

intrinsic value they still recommend, and for which they have been able to negotiate for their members a discounted price (at least half off the original price).

The Fine Watch Clubis committed to giving its members ac-

cess to one offer per week, without systematically having to

provide each month all four types of offers (for example there

The Fine Watch Club organized for instance a two-day full-immersion experience at the Monaco Yacht Show, including a chance to get a preview of the roster of watches featured in the biennial Only Watch auction, along with the limited series dedicated to the Monaco Yacht Show by its sponsor Ulysse Nardin.

For the 50th anniversary of its legendary El Primero movement, Zenith has created a limited edition of 24 pieces exclusively available for members of the club.

With their fast-track access, Platinum members are considered as the “VVIPs” of the Fine Watch Club. could be two Event offers in the same month instead of one

do they enjoy fast-track access to offers one week before oth-

bers have one week to decide, after which they are no longer

ited editions by being consulted on the choice of brands and

of the other three). Each private sale is limited in time (memavailable), and in quantity (for example only 12 of the titanium Octo Finissimo Automatic by Bvlgari).

THE ADVANTAGES

ers, but also participate in the process of creating future limpersonalization. All this for an annual contri­bution of CHF

480, deductible from their first purchase of a limited edition.

A FREE SECOND YEAR

OF PLATINUM MEMBERSHIP

OF MEMBERSHIP FOR GMT READERS

While it is possible to sign up for free with the Fine Watch

As a media partner of the Fine Watch Club, GMT is offering

obtain 3 Hand status, the most motivated members prefer

gardless of the chosen status. To receive offers every week and

Club by providing a certain amount of information and thus

to opt for Manufacture or Platinum status. Manufacture

members have access to the offers 24 hours before others and benefit from advantages with many partners, for an annual fee of only CHF 98. Meanwhile, Platinum members are considered as the super VIPs of the Fine Watch Club. Not only

its readers a complimentary second year of membership, reensure that you have at least one watch to your liking and

means (since there will indeed be something for every bud-

get), or to participate in a watchmaking event in Switzerland or the rest of the world as a VIP, sign up on fine-watch-club.com using the discount code GMT2019 by December 31st 2019.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 65

ONLY WATCH 2019

BY BRICE LECHEVALIER

Heading

for a record edition ?

The world’s most famous watchmaking biennial features 51 unique pieces for its eighth edition.

Since its launch in 2005, Only Watch has served to fund research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy to the tune of CHF 40 million, thanks in particular to watch brands that have created exceptional one-of-a-kind watches for this cause. This year, Only Watch’s unique pieces were unveiled to the

public at the Monaco Yacht Show at the end of September, and subsequently auctioned by Christie’s

on November 9th in Geneva after a world tour to meet collectors (check out the stopovers on onlywatch.com). GMT wholeheartedly supports Only Watch and is delighted to introduce you to

a selection of the fabulous 2019 vintage, which has also been analyzed in detail by its partner, specialized website worldtempus.com.

Patek Philippe FOR ONLY WATCH

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Audemars Piguet FOR ONLY WATCH

Armin Strom FOR ONLY WATCH

Carl F. Bucherer FOR ONLY WATCH

Jaeger-LeCoultre FOR ONLY WATCH

Rebellion FOR ONLY WATCH

Cyrus FOR ONLY WATCH

Ulysse Nardin FOR ONLY WATCH

Akrivia, Andersen Genève, Arnold & Son, ArtyA, Ateliers de Monaco, Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Boucheron, Bovet 1822, Breguet, Chanel, Christophe Claret, Czapek, De Bethune, De Witt, Fabergé, Ferdinand Berthoud, F. P. Journe, Frédérique Constant, Grönefeld, H. Moser & cie., Hermès, Hublot, Jaquet Droz, Konstantin Chaykin, L’Epée, Louis Moinet, Louis Vuitton, Maurice Lacroix, MB&F, Montblanc, Moritz Grossmann, Piaget, Richard Mille, RJ Watches, Singer Reimagined SA, Speake-Marin, Trilobe, Tudor, Urwerk, Voutilainen and Zenith are also taking part in Only Watch 2019. Check out these models at

onlywatch.com

Girard-Perregaux FOR ONLY WATCH

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 67

AUDEMARS PIGUET

BY BRICE LECHEVALIER

A new historical record Audemars Piguet had already made its mark at the SIHH

ity inherent in high-end watches. Reducing the

tion of aesthetic and technical ingenuity. The

2018 with its prototype RD#2 Royal Oak Selfwind-

number of components and their size requires a

watchmakers and engineers of the manufacture

ing Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in platinum,

mastery of performance and an innovative mind-

have integrated movement development, design

the slimmest selfwinding perpetual calendar on

set that reflect the brand’s philosophy, “to break

and ergonomics into the conception of this new

the market and a spectacular result achieved by

the rules, you must first master them”. With their

timepiece to boost its efficiency, robustness and

five years of research and development. Since last

complexity that ranks them in the closed circle of

reliability. To achieve an ultra-thin movement

year, the prototype has been transformed into a

Grandes

perpetual calendar watches

measuring 2.89mm thick, the perpetual calen-

production model, an archetype of exceptional

– and Royal Oak models as a whole – are generally

dar functions, normally arranged on three levels

know-how. With its in-house 2.89mm-thick cali-

not slim enough to slip smoothly under a shirt

have been merged into one single layer. This was

ber and 6.3mm-thick case, the Royal Oak Selfwind-

cuff, but that is now possible with this distilla-

achieved by optimizing the geometry of each com-

Complications,

ing Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin holds the world record for thinness. This record ultra-thinness is embedded in the DNA of the oldest manufacture still in the hands of the founding families.

As all watch enthusiasts are aware, the miniaturization of movements is synonymous with technical prowess when it is accompanied by the reliabil-

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The new Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar.

Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

CASE : satin-brushed titanium, polished 950 platinum

bezel, screw-locked titanium crown, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 20m DIAMETER : 41mm MOVEMENT : mechanical selfwinding (Caliber 5133, 40h power reserve), the thinnest in the world (2.89mm), 256 components, fine watchmaking finishing FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, date, perpetual calendar, astronomical moon, month, day/night, leap year DIAL : satin-brushed, white gold hour-markers, luminescent hands Bracelet : satin-brushed titanium with polished 950 platinum links, AP folding clasp

ponent (256 in all) by means of two innovations,

initial 950 platinum prototype, the case combines

with the end of month cam being integrated into

titanium (case and bracelet) and 950 platinum

But let us return to the perpetual calendar, the

the date wheel and the month cam coupled with

(bezel and bracelet links). The two noble materials

intricacies of which Audemars Piguet has long

the month wheel.

create subtle contrasts, further accentuated by the

since mastered. Having become the first brand

alternating satin-brushed and polished finishes

to display the leap year on a wristwatch in 1955

created by the artisans of the Manufacture.

(Ref 5516), it also set a world slimness record

APPEARANCES ARE NOT DECEPTIVE !

The visible part of this intrinsic prowess focuses mainly on an ultra-thin profile, a clear view of the

with a 2.45mm-thick selfwinding movement.

for a perpetual calendar in 1978 with a 3.95mm-

A CONSTANTLY ENRICHED HERITAGE

thick caliber, (Ref 5548). Technological advances

finely sculpted and decorated oscillating weight,

Audemars Piguet has long since proven its skills

have always accompanied the evolution of the

the meticulously finished caliber, as well as the

in crafting ultra-thin pocket watches and wrist-

Audemars Piguet collections, whose watchmak-

new dial layout. The day, date and month counters

watches, reaching new technical milestones at

ers have benefited from the skills of engineers,

have been redesigned in a more generous size, as

great speed and achieving major accomplish-

designers and programmers. From the 1980s,

has the day/night indication at 8 o’clock, harmoni-

ments at the start of the 20th century. One of

the manufacture was one of the pioneers in

ously arranged opposite the leap year at 4 o’clock.

these milestones included the 1921 pocket watch

using CAD (computer-aided design) or digital

Above all, the dial’s traditional Grande Tapisserie

equipped with a movement that still holds the

testing. The Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual

motif has been replaced by a blue satin-finished

world record for slimness : 1.32mm ! In 1938 the

Calendar Ultra-Thin provides a chance to evolve

surface enhancing legibility while reinforcing the

manufacture transposed this record into a wrist-

with time and to own the very best that modern

modern character of the piece. Evolving from the

watch with a 1.64mm-thick caliber, then in 1967

timekeeping has to offer.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 69

Watchmaking’s yin and yang THE ROYAL OAK ADORNS INFINITE DURA-

tested and mastered by its teams of engineers, to

the very closed circle of brands that, in order to ob-

TION IN WHITE CERAMIC

the delight of enthusiasts of high-end watches

tain one of their iconic models, implies joining a

illustrates

with a strong personality. A major turning point

waiting list.

Audemars Piguet’s love for horological complex-

in this lineage of interpretations was reached in

ity and technological challenges, as illustrated by

2017 with the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in

PERFORMANCE INSIDE AND OUT

the highly demanding field of perpetual calendars.

black ceramic : yet another first in the history of

In the wake of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

The brand from Le Brassus was the first to incor-

Swiss watchmaking. As part of the Only Watch bi-

in black ceramic, Audemars Piguet is delighting

porate the leap-year indication into such mecha-

ennial auction (see page 7) in 2017, an exclusive

its community of fans with a new version, this

nisms more than half a century ago.

one-of-a-kind version of this model was put up for

time in white ceramic. Above and beyond its in-

This expertise has been passed on to generations

auction and attracted fierce bidding by collectors :

comparable visual effect, the use of ceramic of-

of watchmakers who have perfected the art of the

the Only Watch Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

fers – when fully mastered despite its notorious

perpetual calendar. These steadily honed skills

in black ceramic was auctioned by Christie’s for

complexity – a number of benefits for the wearer :

have been expressed through miniaturization,

CHF 800,000! Such a welcome from ­connoisseurs

it is scratchproof and can withstand extreme tem-

overall technical content as well as decoration. The

reflects the extent to which Audemars Piguet has

peratures and thermal shocks, while being both

most precious and innovative materials have been

entered a new dimension in recent years, joining

light and supple. Multiple operations are required

The

70

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previous

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in white ceramic

CASE : white ceramic, screw-locked crown, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 20m DIAMETER : 41mm MOVEMENT : mechanical selfwinding (Caliber 5134, 40h power reserve),

4.31mm thick, 374 components, fine watchmaking finishing FUNCTIONS : perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes DIAL : blue Grande Tapisserie motif, white gold hour-markers, luminescent hands BRACELET : white ceramic, titanium AP folding clasp

to obtain a uniform, compact and extremely hard

The transparent sapphire caseback provides a

astronomical moon seemed to almost merge with

material, which is then machined and finished by

chance to admire some of the 374 components of

the black dial. By contrast, the white ceramic case

hand. In this case, Audemars Piguet specialists de-

the selfwinding in-house caliber, starting with the

and the brightness of the silver-toned counters il-

voted more than 600 hours of research to develop-

skillfully sculpted gold oscillating weight and the

luminate the night star, portraying it with mes-

ing this model. By way of comparison, a Royal Oak

hand-finished bridges. Nonetheless, this mechani-

merizing photographic realism that makes it seem

stainless steel bracelet requires six hours of work

cal treasure is a mere 4.31mm thick, resulting in a

closer than ever. The famous Royal Oak Grande

divided between machining, polishing, manual

ceramic case measuring just 9.5mm thick.

Tapisserie motif oscillates between high-seas gray

finishing, assembly and final inspection, while it takes five times more to perform exactly the same processes for the ceramic bracelet.

and Breton blue. The Royal Oak white gold hands

RADIANT ASTRONOMICAL MOON On the black ceramic version of this model, the

and hour-markers are decorated with a luminescent coating. The overall effect is one of rare intensity, a bright radiance that extends from the

The Royal Oak perpetual calendar uses white ceramic to evoke the idea of infinite duration.

dial to its ceramic bracelet, secured by a titanium clasp. Like any perpetual calendar, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in white ceramic requires no adjustment until 2100. There are some rules one simply must not break.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

71

BVLGARI

BY BRICE LECHEVALIER

Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

CASE : titanium, ultra-thin (world’s thinnest at 6.9mm) with transparent caseback,

ceramic-set titanium crown, water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding BVL Caliber 318, 55h power reserve), thinnest in the world at 3.3mm, peripheral rotor FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, dual-time display with local time adjusted via a 9 o’clock pusher DIAL : sandblasted titanium BRACELET : sandblasted titanium with folding clasp

The Octo Finissimo

scoops up a fifth world record the vision has evolved over time. The same goes for

THE FOUR NEW RELEASES IN 2019

Guido Terreni looks back at this saga that is truly

the exterior. At first, we had in mind an ultra-thin

STRENGTHEN ITS ICON STATUS

unique in contemporary watchmaking history.

formal watch and wanted to give a contemporary

Not content with revolutionizing the image of

touch to noble materials such as platinum, then

the ultra-thin contemporary watch with a radical

Was this ever-ascending series of world

white gold. The skeleton concept found its way

aesthetic, Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo collection also

records foreseen right from the start ?

into the project, but it took us almost two years

appeals to watch enthusiasts through its intrinsic

Originally, I wanted a contemporary ultra-thin

to get it done. In parallel, while we were work-

values, highlighted by five world thinness records

watch, and we had imagined a small seconds

ing on the Finissimo automatic, we had designed

in six years. The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon in

model as an icon. Then came the world’s thinnest

a steel prototype, yet we were not convinced by

2014, followed by the minute repeater in 2016, the

hand-wound tourbillon, followed by the automatic

this material. But in discovering the visual effect

automatic watch in 2017 (also winner of the Men’s

tourbillon. As for the minute repeater, it was al-

of sandblasted titanium on the minute repeater

Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Ge-

ready present in the maison’s heritage with the

and the enormous power of attraction it exerted,

nève), the automatic tourbillon in 2018 and the

Genta caliber that we adapted. However, we had

that became the natural choice. This year we are

world’s thinnest chronograph in 2019. As Manag-

been working on the chronograph for three years

continuing our quest for distinctive design with a

ing Director of Bvlgari’s Watchmaking Division,

to achieve the result presented at Baselworld, so

sandblasted ceramic version and a carbon tourbillon, and we will of course continue to build on our

The Octo Finissimo customer is an unconventional individual who does not follow the crowd.

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momentum in 2020.

How would you advise a customer with regard to choosing an Octo Finissimo ?

The collection is very coherent, with interpreta-

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Carbon

Octo Finissimo Skeleton Ceramic

DIAMETER : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding BVL

resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 40mm MOVEMENT : ultra-thin (2.35mm) skeleton MECHANICAL hand-wound BVL Caliber 128SK Finissimo, 65h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds and power-reserve indicator BRACELET : ceramic with ceramic folding clasp

CASE : ultra-thin ceramic (5.50mm thick) with transparent caseback, ceramic-set ceramic crown ; water-

CASE : CTP carbon, ultra-thin, transparent caseback

Caliber 288 with flying tourbillon, 52h power reserve, skeleton, dedicated ball-bearing mechanism, world’s thinnest tourbillon, Fine Watchmaking finishing FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, tourbillon BRACELET : CTP carbon, triple-blade folding clasp 50-PIECE LIMITED SERIES

Octo Finissimo Automatic Ceramic

CASE : ultra-thin ceramic (5.50mm thick) with transparent caseback, ceramic-set ceramic crown ; water-

resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 40mm MOVEMENT : ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound BVL Caliber 138 Finissimo, 60h power reserve, thinnest in the world at 2.23mm, platinum micro-rotor, manually decorated with Côtes de Genève, beveled and circular-grained finishing FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds DIAL : ceramic with ceramic numerals BRACELET : ceramic with ceramic folding clasp

tions in pink gold, titanium, platinum, rhodium-

makes them take a different look at the watch,

NEW HOROLOGICAL BENCHMARK

plated steel or black sanded ceramic, so the color

enabling them to experience unprecedented com-

Who would have expected ten years ago that the

should be adapted to personal tastes. The move-

fort, to such an extent that they find it difficult to

world’s thinnest automatic chronograph would

ment also provides scope for personal choice : some

put back on the heavier, larger watches they have

be designed by manufacture Bvlgari ? Invest-

people do not like the skeleton because it is less im-

previously worn. For example, the Octo Finissimo

ments in the verticalization of production and

mediately legible, while others love this artistic ap-

Chronograph GMT is the only one that fits so easily

the total commitment to technical prowess have

proach that allows them to admire the movement.

under the sleeve of the suit shirt. It is extremely

generated effects that are all the more impres-

Some will appreciate the practical function of the

refined and masculine.

sive in that they have by no means been made

GMT chronograph, but it remains very understated.

at the expense of design. Not only has the Octo

The Octo Finissimo customer is an unconventional

Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic set the

individual who does not follow the crowd but in-

world record for finesse, but it is far ahead of its

stead displays originality and appreciates innova-

closest competitor (40% thinner !), while being

tive aesthetics. This is a person who is not purchas-

equipped with the GMT function. When travel-

ing age-old legitimacy but instead an aesthetic and

ling, its wearer can read off home time on the

technical

challenge. In fact, our clientele includes

24-hour scale of a 3 o’clock counter. Its integrated

many entrepreneurs who are used to challenges,

manufacture-made caliber measures only 3.3mm

risk-taking and opting for innovative ideas. There

thick and is housed in a case just 6.9mm thick

are many CEOs and opinion leaders among them,

(the equivalent of a five-franc coin !). Who wants

people who know how to make decisions and who

to buy a thin slice of watchmaking history ? In a

also love watchmaking. The completely unexpected

particularly high-end iteration, the world’s thin-

element that also surprises them is the lightness of

nest automatic tourbillon now also appears in a

the titanium or ceramic models. The lack of weight

cutting-edge carbon version.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

73

CARL F. BUCHERER

BY DAVID CHOKRON

The art of floating To honor its rich traditions and its origins in the heart of Switzerland, in Lucerne, Carl F. Bucher-

of the Baroque city. The 18K white gold bridge

and the layout of the sunburst-patterned brushed

er has launched a limited-edition timepiece :

engraved with a view of Lucerne also pays hom-

dial, with a circular ‘milled rings’ zone bearing

The

Peripheral.

age to Carl F. Bucherer’s birthplace. It covers the

diamond hour-markers, are inspired by the great

“This masterpiece embodies 130 years of Carl

entire back of the movement, except for the tour-

classics of the 1960s. By combining retro design el-

F. Bucherer sophistication. We are particularly

billon. The famous Lucerne bridge is at the center

ements with the latest advanced technologies, the

proud of it, as it honors a long tradition and also

of the refined engraving, which in itself requires

brand mingles past with present while offering the

marks the beginning of a new range of products :

more than two weeks of meticulous craftsman-

promise of a radiant future.

the Heritage collection,” says Sascha Moeri, CEO

ship. A swan completes the embellishment. In

Carl F. Bucherer.

1888, Carl F. Bucherer opened his first shop for

PIONEER OF PERIPHERAL TECHNOLOGY

watches and jewelry on the Schwanenplatz (Swan

The heart of the Heritage Tourbillon Double Pe-

A TRIBUTE TO 130 YEARS OF

Square), a few steps from the current store. The posi-

ripheral Limited Edition timepiece is the in-house

WATCHMAKING ART “MADE OF LUCERNE”

tion of the swan varies on each of the 88 models ;

CFB T3000 caliber with a peripheral tourbillon

The first model in the new Heritage collection, a

a particularity that underlines the uniqueness of

and peripheral automatic winding mechanism.

88-piece limited series, honors the origins of Carl

these exceptional timepieces. The shape of the case

This movement was presented for the first time at

Heritage

Tourbillon

Double

F. Bucherer which reach back until 1888. The cosmopolitan and internationally renowned luxury watch manufacturer was born at the heart of Switzerland, in Lucerne. The new timepiece with a 42.5mm case in 18K rose gold graced with sophisticated finishes reflects the golden splendor

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The tourbillon carriage appears to be floating on both sides, supported by three invisible peripheral ball bearings.

Heritage Tourbillon Double Peripheral Limited Edition CASE : 18K rose gold, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

on both sides, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 30m DIMENSIONS : 42.50mm in diameter, 11.90mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding with 22K gold peripheral rotor, hand-engraved white gold bridge on the caseback side, chronometer-certified Caliber CFB T3000, silicon lever and escape-wheel, 65h power reserve, peripheral tourbillon, hours, minutes, small seconds DIAL : silver-toned, sunburst brushed and snailed, rose gold appliques STRAP : chestnut alligator leather with 18K rose gold folding clasp 88-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

Baselworld 2018 at the heart of the Manero Tour-

Bucherer’s designers and watchmakers have also

of the brand’s 130th anniversary, the movement of

billon Double Peripheral as a world’s first. By way

given it a floating appearance. The one-minute

this limited edition features a peripheral oscillating

of reminder, with the CFB A1000 caliber, Carl F.

tourbillon carriage is supported by three invisible

weight in 22K rose gold that perfectly complements

Bucherer launched series production of the first

peripheral ball bearings. These ceramic ball bear-

the timepiece’s rose gold case.

automatic winding movement driven by a mecha-

ings provide a smooth connection along with stable

nism operating in both directions, equipped with a

and accurate guidance. Carl F. Bucherer has also ad-

PIONEERS SINCE 1888

peripheral oscillating weight. This technology was

opted an innovative approach to escapement design

For 130 years, the independent Swiss company

then refined with the COSC-certified CFB A2000

with the use of antimagnetic silicon for the lever

Carl F. Bucherer has been writing the history of

movement. The CFB T3000 represents the culmina-

and escape-wheel. The Heritage Tourbillon Double

watchmaking. Drawing inspiration from its rich

tion of this technological advance. The tourbillon is

Peripheral Limited Edition timepiece is endowed

heritage and looking firmly to the future, the

one of the most ingenious mechanisms in the art

with a 65-hour power reserve and has been granted

brand creates timepieces that are as sublime as

of watchmaking and, in their latest caliber, Carl F.

COSC chronometer certification. On the occasion

they are innovative, synonymous with quality, passion and high precision. Its wealth of experi-

The 18K white gold bridge engraved with a view of Lucerne and a swan covers the entire back of the movement, apart from the tourbillon.

ence, breakthroughs and technical prowess have led Carl F. Bucherer to join the exclusive circle of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH). This approach testifies to the brand’s perpetual desire to preserve a longstanding tradition and precious watchmaking expertise.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 75

Patravi ScubaTec Black Manta Special Edition

CASE : black DLC-coated titanium, unidirectional titanium and ceramic rotating bezel, helium valve, sapphire crystal

with anti-reflective coating on both sides, solid caseback with manta engraving, water-resistant to 500m (50 bar) DIMENSIONS : 44.6mm in diameter, 13.45mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Caliber CFB 1950.1, chronometercertified by the COSC, hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : black, horizontal stripes with bronze manta ray silhouettes, luminescent applied hour-markers, luminescent cut-out hands STRAP : rubber strap with recycled PET textile layer, DLC-coated titanium folding clasp

Dancing with mantas Carl F. Bucherer has been supporting the British charity

we know about this as yet insufficiently studied

titanium allows easy adjustment of the dive

the Manta Trust for many years, which helps to pre-

species, the more effective protection will be at

time – a safety measure complemented by an

serve the oceans and thus the habitat of manta

the regional level.”

automatic helium valve. Regardless of the angle

rays. The Manta Trust is involved in more than

from which it is viewed, this watch clearly dis-

20 countries for the survival of this threatened

DEEPLY FASCINATING

plays an intent to achieve sustainability. The

species, in particular through various research

The Patravi ScubaTec Black Manta Special Edi-

innovative fabric strap with decorative bronze

projects and tireless educational work. The new

tion lives up to its name. With its 44.6mm di-

stitching was made largely from recycled plastic

special model is the second timepiece dedicated

ameter, its ultra-light titanium case – a new

bottles. This is a creation for Carl F. Bucherer.

to this enduring commitment. Guy Stevens,

feature from Carl F. Bucherer – benefits from

The likewise DLC-treated titanium caseback

CEO of The Manta Trust, says : “Thanks to Carl

a DLC treatment whose black color contrasts

features an engraving of this watch’s emblem-

F. Bucherer’s involvement, this year The Manta

with the bronze and retro details of the div-

atic animal : the black manta ray.

Trust will be able to launch an exploratory re-

ing elements. The Super-LumiNova®-coated

search project that will allow it to collect new

hour-markers and hands frame the silhouette

PERFECT TIMING

information on the movements and behavior of

of two manta stripes on the black dial. The uni-

The titanium case houses a CFB 1950.1 auto-

manta rays in the Yucatán peninsula. The more

directional rotating bezel made of ceramic and

matic caliber with a 38-hour power reserve. Its extraordinary precision is officially attested by

The DLC-treated titanium case back features an engraving of this watch’s emblematic animal : the black manta ray.

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the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (COSC), which is an independent body : each model has its own certification. This accuracy has great value both on land and in diving. Because with a water resistance of 50 bars (500 m), the Patravi ScubaTec Black Manta Special Edition is capable of reaching impressive depths.

An international watch owners club offering its members year-round benefits In association with GMT Magazine, WorldTempus, Geneva Watch Tour and Watch Photo Awards

O pe ni ng 2 0 19 register now on

Photography: Karine Bauzin

www.fine-watch-club.com

INTERVIEW BRICE LECHEVALIER

Guy Bove TAG Heuer Product Director

78

TAG Heuer is celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Monaco

contours of the sides, resulting in interesting effects that draw

this year ; what do you as a designer see as most important in

the gaze of both discerning connoisseurs and novices. On the one

this legendary collection ?

hand, the simple and strong ergonomics of the pushers, as skill-

All designers dream of working on a ‘form’ (non-round) case, and

fully integrated as are the dial appliques ; and on the other hand, a

that of the Monaco is really very appealing. In particular the ama-

circular satin finish on the round part of the caseback. The result is

zingly angular 1969 edition, which is incredibly effective even

more subtle than if it were a rectangular block, while maintaining

without the refinements we would make today. Its raw strength

its power. Monaco had everything it needed to become iconic in

is softened by the interaction between the curve and the rounded

1969, and to remain so 50 years on.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

The anniversary commemorations will be punctuated by five limited series ; can you tell us more ?

This is indeed what TAG Heuer announced at Baselworld : five limited editions reflecting the five decades corresponding to this 50th anniversary. The first has just been unveiled at the Monaco F1 Grand Prix, of which TAG Heuer is a partner. Other events will mark the launches of the other limited series in the coming months. Their designs are inspired by the highlights of the Monaco line from 1969 to the present day. Fans of the collection will find details from each decade, with emblematic colors and hour-marker types reflecting its evolution. For example, Monaco has had two types of dials, with horizontal and beveled hour-markers. In my view, models with horizontal hour-markers have a stronger presence, but those with beveled hour-markers feature

“The new Autavia brings depth to the brand.”

something interesting, in that the dial displays a circle within a square. The watch thus looks a little smaller, which appeals to me. The 10 o’clock cross-shaped counters or the 3 o’clock counters that first appeared in 1972 also stand out. Enthusiasts will have to be quick and attentive to order to snap up one of these.

TAG Heuer’s other major theme for 2019 relates to the redeployment of Autavia : can one rightly speak of a symbiosis between design and technology ?

Absolutely, since it is the first collection transversally equipped with our Isograph technology, the carbon composite hairspring patented by our TAG Heuer Institute and presented in January in the Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph. But to tell the story of the Autavia’s design, we have to go back to 1911, when Heuer began to produce on-board chronographs, already patented, first for cars and then for planes. Owning a racing car at that time implied a certain income, and their dangerousness called for a singular strength of character, especially when equipped with a dashboard chronograph. Moreover, a Zeppelin owner also acquired one for his crossing of the United States, as did certain aircraft pilots.

In 1933, Heuer then produced a model designed for both the automotive and aviation industries – hence the contraction Autavia which is in fact one of the oldest names in watchmaking. These chronographs with their large numerals were pretty cool. In their wake, Jack Heuer designed this first watch for TAG Heuer in 1962, an extremely legible chronograph with the first rotating bezel in Autavia’s history. It marked a turning point for the brand in its shift from pocket chronographs and chronometry instruments to wristwatches. The brand’s spirit has been reinforced in terms of its legibility, rotating bezel and overall sportiness. 

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MONACO Limited Edition 50th Anniversary

How is the contemporary Autavia set to win customers ?

Bringing Autavia into TAG Heuer and making it a collection in its own right gives it new meaning, more depth, while paying tribute to Jack Heuer’s first models. Today we find the dashboard aspect and the rotating bezel from 1962 ; the case size he

“Motor racing is all about adventure and TAG Heuer is a pioneer in the field.”

designed in 1967; as well as the dashboard-inspired multi-level crown on the automatic model and pushers on the subsequently released chronographs. While rediscovering this heritage, today’s customers also benefit from Isograph technology and a COSC-certified movement, all housed in a water-resistant case to 100 meters and equipped with a ceramic bezel. The contemporary models are sold with two interchangeable wristbands : a steel bracelet for week-day wear and a ‘weekend’ NATO strap for example. The dial hour-markers are Luminova blocks that add a lot of character during the day and brilliance at night. Finally, it is also the first time that TAG Heuer has introduced a bronze version.

Motor racing remains an important source of inspiration when it comes to design ?

Naturally. Recalling Heuer’s automotive and aviation past gives a better understanding of the simplicity characterizing the dials. As the Autavia proves, TAG Heuer creates sports watches that can be read in the blink of an eye. They “speak” to race drivers and use the aesthetic codes typical of dashboards, whose information must be read quickly and at high speed.

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Collection Medici en résine acrylique, aspect bois, attributs en palladium.

Le stylo à plume Oversize est équipé du système Power Filler.

Le stylo à plume Medium est équipé du système à Converter.

Le Medici est également disponible en Roller, Bille et Mine. www.visconti.it

Focus

PATEK PHILIPPE

DAVID CHOKRON

A melodious

alarm Any watch based on an audible principle can be geared towards two fundamental choices : strength or finesse. In the case of an alarm clock, the former consists in waking the wearer with a powerful sound. The latter is about operating in a subtle manner, with a softer sound that will compensate for its moderate power with a long duration. As a specialist in minute repeaters, Patek Philippe logically took the second path for its Pilot Alarm Travel Time. Its all-new AL 30-660 S C FUS movement incorporates the basic characteristics of the brand’s dual-time system. It is complemented by a day/night indication and users two pushers, one to advance and the other to set back the local time. In addition, this movement adopts certain characteristics from the extraordinary Grand Master Chime, which was already equipped with a sophisticated alarm function. The new Reference 5520 P thus enables a digital setting of the alarm time over a 24-hour period and to the nearest 15 minutes. When it rings, it strikes a gong finely crafted as if for a minute repeater. The sound is very long and extremely musical. It is not designed to awaken hibernating bears, but instead to delight music lovers and watch aficionados.

Patek Philippe Pilot Alarm Travel Time 5520P CASE : Platinum, transparent sapphire crystal and back,

water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 42.2mm in diameter, 11.6mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Caliber AL 30660 S C FUS, minimum 42-hour power FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date, dual time with day/night indication, alarm with digital 24-hour display DIAL : Sunray-patterned ebony black, applied gold numerals, white gold baton-type hands STRAP : black calf leather with platinum pin buckle

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Focus ROLEX

DAVID CHOKRON

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 CASE : white gold, transparent sapphire crystal, white gold

back, water-resistant to 100m, white gold bezel with matt and polished black ceramic insert SIZE : 42mm in diameter.

MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Caliber 3235, chronometer-certified (COSC), 70-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : matt black with white gold hour-markers STRAP : elastomer with shapememory alloy core secured by a white gold folding clasp with an extension system. Superlative Chronometer certified watch

Very sporty and

super chic

To understand the new Rolex Yacht-Master 42, one must first consider its predecessor, the 40mm Yacht-Master. This luxury sports model radiates a spirit akin to that the professional Rolex, while maintaining a chic yet relaxed urban feel. Its pink gold version had inaugurated the very comfortable shape-memory elastomer bracelet, called Oysterflex, while the use of pink Rolesor gave it a very precious touch despite its very utilitarian-looking bezel with a matt black ceramic insert. This preciousness vanishes with the Yacht-Master 42. First of all, because it is available in white gold, a more discreet shade, in harmony with the black bezel and the Oysterflex strap also featured in this version. Secondly, because the 2mm increase in diameter compared to previous Yacht-Masters gives it a more clearly masculine appearance, without becoming overtly muscular. This effect is further enhanced by the introduction of the largest applied hour-markers ever seen on a standard Rolex. Intrinsically luxurious yet an authentic tool-watch in spirit, the Yacht-Master 42 manages to find a distinct new slot within the already finely calibrated Rolex range.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 83

Focus

ROGER DUBUIS

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Excalibur Blacklight CASE : openworked white gold (or pink gold or black DLC

titanium), bezel set with 60 round-cut diamonds, water-resistant to 50m DIAMETER : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Caliber RD820SQ, 60h power reserve), micro-rotor, 160 components, hand finishing, “Poinçon de Genève” FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : rhodium-plated inner bezel ring STRAP : blue alligator leather with adjustable folding clasp 88-PIECE LIMITED SERIES

Making (light)

waves Roger Dubuis has never done things by half, especially not with its Excalibur line. In the highly specialized segment of contemporary hyper horology, the Geneva-based manufacturer has established itself with its avant-garde timepieces reflecting a certain vision of luxury watchmaking. When it comes to enlivening its best-selling line, the Excalibur automatic skeleton, it is offering a radical design innovation and literally lighting up its its in-house caliber. For the first time in the history of watchmaking, a skeletonized caliber is adorned with micro-structures made of lab-grown sapphires and spinels – both naturally luminescent – arranged in a star shape. To accentuate this effect in the dark and especially under UV light, they are finely highlighted with luminescent material. A wow effect is thus guaranteed, whether on the deck of a yacht or under the spotlights of the most prominent nightclubs. As diamonds can also give off a certain amount of luminescence, Roger Dubuis’ gemsetters have selected a majority of them without luminescence, so that only those in the center of the star shine. The Excalibur Blacklight is available in a chromatic trilogy with a case in white gold, pink gold or titanium.

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Focus TRILOBE

BRICE LECHEVALIER

The merry-go-round

of time

Attracting considerable attention within the Fine Watchmaking microcosm due to its new ring-based time read-off, the new Trilobe brand launched last winter is introducing a chromatic transformation of its splendidly refined dials. Eight shades of varying intensities now adorn its inaugural collection Les Matinaux, from sunburst stormy gray to carmine, silver and blue. Its poetic and technically innovative approach is based on the symbiosis between the architectural and literary culture of its young founder Gauthier Massonneau and the widely proven know-how of watch designer Jean-François Mojon. After three years of R&D, they patented the X-Centric module enabling the rotation of the three rings gliding on rubies : a small one for the seconds, a middle one for the minutes and the largest one for the hours, indicated by three fixed trilobe-shaped indicators. This distillation of aesthetics and performance harbors a wealth of detail and talent, confined within a modest yet generous price positioning.

Les Matinaux CASE : satin-brushed and polished 316L steel,

domed bezel, sapphire back, water-resistant to 50m DIAMETER : 40.5mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (2892 base movement transformed by a 100-part X-Centric module by JF Mojon, 42h power reserve), 246 parts FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds displayed by patented rotating rings and fixed indicators DIAL : sunburst green (seven other colors available), rosette-type seconds and trilobed-shaped indicators STRAP : alligator leather with double folding clasp

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 85

Focus

ULYSSE NARDIN

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Marine Torpilleur Military CASE : DLC-coated stainless steel or bronze (with stainless

steel caseback), back stamped with a torpedo boat, waterresistant to 50m, screw-lock crown DIAMETER : 44mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (UN Caliber 118, 60h power reserve), patented inertial escapement with silicon hairspring, COSC-certified FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, date, small seconds DIAL : black or dark blue STRAP : dark blue leather or khaki fabric, stainless steel or bronze buckle

Bronze and silicon

torpedo ship The consistently contemporary, even avant-garde design characterizing the Ulysse Nardin style does not prevent the brand from cultivating certain chapters of its heritage that won over an entire generation. In this case, that of the 20th century naval officers who held the Ulysse Nardin chronometers in high esteem. Two limited series now pay tribute to them in the Marine Torpilleur Military collection, featuring a style as direct and minimalist as that distinguishing the military garb of torpedo destroyers. While their exterior significantly modifies the appearance of their respective personalities – one with a midnight blue dial and bronze case and the other in black DLC steel with a black dial, – their intrinsic qualities display the same rigorous watchmaking approach in the shape of a Manufacture movement chronometer-certified by the COSC, equipped with patented inertial escapement and silicon hairspring.

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Focus

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

MICHÈLE BRUNNER

Patrimony perpetual calendar ultra-thin CASE : 18K 5N pink gold, sapphire caseback, water-

resistant to 30m SIZE : 41mm, 8.9mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Vacheron Constantin Caliber 1120 QP, 19,800 vph, 40h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, perpetual calendar (day, date, month, leap year) moon phases DIAL : midnight blue, sunburst satin-brushed, applied hour-markers in 18K 5N pink gold STRAP : midnight blue Mississipiensis alligator leather with leather lining, 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp shaped like a half Maltese cross

Calendar rhapsody

in blue

At the SIHH last January, Vacheron Constantin introduced a midnight blue colour into in a trio of Patrimony models and the new perpetual calendar is part of this lineage. It offers aesthetes a more contemporary alternative to the existing ultra-thin Patrimony perpetual calendar versions, in pink gold with white or anthracite dial, or belonging to the Excellence Platine line. The midnight blue dedicated to the collection features a sunburst satin-brush that lights up the dial unanimously acclaimed for its aesthetic harmony and readability. Positioned in a pyramid-style layout, the three counters for the day, date and month can be read at a glance and the eye can then glide over the moon, whose golden hue matches the red gold of the case, hour-markers and hands. The relative sobriety of the dial should not eclipse the technical prowess of the perpetual calendar – providing a mechanical solution to an astronomical problem – especially since the movement must be housed in a case less than 9mm thick. Vacheron Constantin’s first perpetual calendar dates back to an 1883 pocket watch. Since then, the Manufacture has constantly improved and miniaturized its movements.

Concentrated within a thickness of just 4.05mm, the 1120 QP in-house caliber is able to handle calendar information without any need for correction until 2100.

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Saga IWC Schaffhausen MICHÈLE BRUNNER

Legitimacy for The Longest Flight 88

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A

specialist in pilot’s watches for 80 years, IWC has already honored the British Spitfire fighter plane several times in its watch collection. This

year, however, it is taking a step forward by becoming a partner in the “Silver Spitfire – The Longest Flight” expedition.

Initiated by British aviators Steve Boultbee Brooks and Matt Jones, this will be the first round-the-world flight in a Spitfire.

Built in 1943 and with over 50 hours of flight time to its credit, the plane that will be making the The Longest Flight has been stripped down, cleaned, repaired, disarmed, reassembled, and finally, hand polished with the same care a watchmaker applies to a luxury watch. The “Silver Spitfire” will take off next August from Goodwood, in the south of England, for a 43,000 km loop around the world. Around 100 stopovers are planned, spread over more than 30 countries. Steve Boultbee Brooks and Matt Jones will take turns in the cockpit, notably wearing the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Spitfire Edition “The Longest Flight” specially designed to accompany them on their world tour.

HERITAGE AND PERFORMANCE The Spitfire was intended for intense short-range air raids, which Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Spitfire Edition “The Longest Flight” CASE : steel, sapphire crystal resistant to depressurization,

water-resistant to 60m, engraving “Silver Spitfire The Longest Flight” on the back SIZE : 46mm, thickness 15.2mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding IWC Caliber 82760, 28,800 vph, 60h power reserve, automatic Pellaton winding system FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date, timezone function DIAL : black, rhodiumed hands STRAP : green fabric 250-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

means undertaking such a long flight is first and foremost a feat in itself. Beyond that, it also embodies a concern for preservation, a symbol of freedom and peace, and a nod to the history that this journey represents. The organizers’ objective is twofold : to remind the general public of the essential role this engineering gem played for the Allies during World War II and for the return to peace, and to encourage vocations as new mechanics and engineers capable of maintaining and restoring the existing Spitfires so that they continue to delight today’s aviators. 

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 89

Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire CASE : steel or bronze, sapphire crystal resistant to depressurization,

soft iron inner case, water-resistant to 60m, engraving “Silver Spitfire The Longest Flight” on the back SIZE : 41mm, thickness 15.3mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-windingIWC Caliber 69380, 28,800 vph, 46h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, chronograph DIAL : black or olive green, rhodium-plated or gold-plated hands with luminescence STRAP : green fabric or brown leather

Spitfire a new high-flying squadron I

f one were to retain just one image of IWC from the SIHH 2019, it would be the gleaming Spitfire in the middle of the booth, and the standout visit paid by the two pilots of “The

Longest Flight”. Pilot’s watches are the star collection of 2019, and alongside the TOP GUN and Le Petit Prince lines, Spitfire is deploying a squadron of seven new models.

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Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire CASE : steel or bronze, sapphire crystal resistant to

depressurization, soft iron inner case, water-resistant to 60m, engraving “Silver Spitfire The Longest Flight” on the back SIZE : 39mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding IWC Caliber 32110, 28,800 vph, 72h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : black or olive green, rhodium-plated or gold-plated hands with luminescence STRAP : green fabric or brown leather

STEEL, BRONZE AND MANUFACTURE MOVEMENTS While the IWC Spitfire collection is not new, it welcomes two aesthetic and technical innovations this year. IWC is introducing bronze as a new case material, alongside steel, and the dial colors diverge from the silver or gray of previous models to adopt black and olive green exuding a more vintage and military appearance, reinforced by beige Super-LumiNova®. Moreover, the watches retain the refined aesthetics inherited from the Mark 11 timepiece produced by IWC in 1948 for the Royal Air Force. On the movement side, all new Spitfires are powered by an IWC Manufacture caliber, which is a first.

In addition to the special edition “The Longest Flight” (see previous page), the new Spitfire line includes the bronze perpetual Calendar limited editions, driven by the IWC 52615 caliber ; and the steel UTC Spitfire Edition “MJ271”, representing the first time the UTC have been incorporated into an IWC in-house caliber.

Moreover, the 41mm Spitfire Chronograph and Automatic Spitfire models, available in bronze and steel, respectively welcome – for the first time in their relatively “small” case – an IWC caliber from the 69000 line, and the new Manufacture caliber 32110 with 72 hours of autonomy. 

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 91

TOP GUN honoring elite pilots T

he Pilot’s Watches TOP GUN collection does not pay tribute to a particular aircraft, but instead to the prestigious American Navy school that trains the best fighter pilots.

Born in 2007, it is characterized by robust and practical watches, able to withstand the extreme conditions – gravitational force, magnetism, depressurization, corrosion – imposed on them by pilots at the controls of their supersonic jets, often on missions launched from aircraft carriers. TOP GUN models therefore opt for ceramic and titanium cases and a matt black color to minimize glare. The highly legible simple black dial with its large luminescent onboard instrument-style numerals is also an asset of these watches.

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Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN CASE : ceramic, sapphire crystal resistant to depressurization, soft

iron inner case, water-resistant to 60m, titanium back with TOP GUN engraving SIZE : 44.5mm, 15.7mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding IWC Caliber 69380, 28,800 vph, 46h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph DIAL : black with black luminescent hands STRAP : black fabric

Pilot’s Watch Automatic TOP GUN CASE : ceramic, sapphire crystal resistant to depressurization, soft

iron inner case, titanium back with TOP GUN engraving, waterresistant to 60m SIZE : 41mm, 11.4mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding IWC Caliber 32110, 28,800 vph, 72h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : black with black luminescent hands STRAP : black fabric

FOURFOLD PROOF There are four new TOP GUN 2019 models, and the most unexpected is the Mojave Desert Edition chronograph, issued in a 500-piece limited series and featuring the sandy color of this American desert where the US Navy has a military base. The most high-tech is the Ceratanium® Double Chronograph, named after the hard and resistant material developed and patented by IWC, introduced in 2017 in an Aquatimer model and used for the first time here in a Pilot’s Watch. This black split-seconds chronograph with gray luminescence is powered by the IWC 79420 self-winding movement ; the TOP GUN black ceramic chronograph with small red seconds hand is equipped with the 69380 Manufacture movement, and the Automatic TOP GUN three-hand plus date watch has the same IWC 32110 caliber as the Spitfire Automatic while exuding a more contemporary look due to its black attire. 

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Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Edition “Le Petit Prince” CASE : 18K 5N gold, sapphire crystal and caseback, water-

resistant to 60m SIZE : 43mm, 15.9mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding IWC Caliber 89630, 28,800 vph, 68h power reserve, red oscillating weight FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, year, moon phases, flyback chronograph DIAL : blue with luminescent gold-plated hands STRAP : brown calfskin 250-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

The Little Prince

elegance and Grand Complications

T

he aviation theme continues with Antoine de SaintExupéry, a French writer and aviator who disappeared in 1944 over the Mediterranean, and whose eponymous

foundation has been partnered by IWC since 2005. The Schaffhausen-based Manufacture supports the Foundation’s commitment to combating illiteracy and educating children in difficulty, in particular through the auctioning of unique “Le Petit Prince” Pilot’s Watches.

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Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “Le Petit Prince” CASE : hard gold or platinum, sapphire crystal resistant to

depressurization, sapphire back, water-resistant to 60m SIZE : 46.3mm, 13.5mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical manualwinding IWC Caliber 94805, 18,000, 96h power reserve, constant-force tourbillon FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, moon phases, power reserve, tourbillon DIAL : blue, luminescent gold-plated or rhodium-plated hands STRAP : brown calfskin LIMITED EDITION : 10 in hard gold and 10 in platinum

This year, IWC unveils two new “Le Petit Prince” models and is once again demonstrating its capacity for innovation with several firsts. The Big Pilot’s Tourbillon limited edition is the first Pilot’s watch to feature a constant-force tourbillon, as well as the first IWC watch made of “hard gold”, a special 5N gold alloy that is much more resistant than classic 5N gold. Positioned between 12 and 2 o’clock, the moon phase that will remain accurate for the next 577.5 years is adorned with the traditional image of the Little Prince, scarf flying in the wind, standing out against a starry sky of the same deep blue as the dial, the typical color of the “Le Petit Prince” models. Ten of these timepieces are also available in platinum.

The Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, in 5N gold, is a 250-piece limited edition combining for the first time these two complications within a Pilot’s Watch. The day, month and date are read off in three counters, the year appears in a small window at 8 o’clock, and the moon phase is integrated in the 12 o’clock chronograph counter. The elegance of this timepiece continues on the back, with the 18-carat gold openwork oscillating weight and the carefully decorated IWC 89630 caliber visible through the sapphire crystal.

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Technique PAUL O’NEIL

Richard Mille From the ocean to the wrist

R

ichard Mille has pushed the development of composite materials much further than any other watch brand. Last year, its partner NTPT® opened a 300m2 clean room production area in Switzerland dedicated ex-

clusively to research, development and production for Richard Mille watches, jewelry and writing instruments.

While this new facility is for the production of non carbon-fiber materials such as its unique Quartz TPT® fibers, NTPT® owes its very existence to the lure of the ocean. It developed the technology to build the black carbon sails for the 2007 Alinghi America’s Cup yacht, which it later expanded to the construction of yacht masts before taking its technology to the air on the ground-breaking zero-fuel Solar Impulse aeroplane. Richard Mille began its collaboration with NTPT® in 2013 and the two partners have since co-developed the world’s first thin-ply quartz fibre prepreg, Quartz TPT®, which made its debut on the RM 27-02 and RM 35-02 Rafael Nadal models.

This material is actually a composite formed by interleaving Carbon TPT® with Quartz TPT®. The Quartz TPT® alone consists of over 600 layers of quartz fibers that are coated in a coloured resin and inserted between the layers of Carbon TPT®. In addition to the usual benefits of carbon fiber, Quartz TPT® allows the introduction of colours like the turquoise seen on this year’s RM 07-03 “Blueberry” model

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(which took a full year to perfect), as well as a unique aspect, since the machining reveals a pattern of layers unique to each piece.

Like all Richard Mille watch cases, those in Quartz TPT® have to meet strict quality standards with tolerances of just plus or minus 2 microns for their dimensions.

These are checked by a machine that takes hundreds of individual measurements in a process that can take over an hour for the complete watch case. Up to 85 % of each production run may be subjected to these detailed checks.

Despite its unique characteristics, Quartz TPT® is treated with as much care as precious metals as far as its finishing is concerned. When each case component comes out of the CNC machine it is first buffed with a special tool to remove any protruding fibres before being polished and beveled like any other case, despite the difficulty of such operations on a material as robust as Quartz TPT®. In this year’s Bonbon collection, combined with tiny sweets in hand-painted enamel, it looks good enough to eat !

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AIR – LAND – SEA

PHOTOSHOOT EDOUARD HAEGI

I

n full flight, freewheeling or strolling along a pontoon, the watches in this summer selection identify with the ex-

pressive territories of the brands that imagined them.

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IWC

PILOT’S WATCH DOUBLE CHRONOGRAPH TOP GUN CERATANIUM

With the participation of Swiftcopters and Mont Blanc Hélicoptères

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REBELLION PREDATOR 2.0 With the participation of Ducati Genève

BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC CERAMIC

VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS PERPETUAL CALENDAR ULTRA-THIN With the participation of the Neptune and the Mouettes Genevoises

MONTBLANC 1858 GEOSPHERE LIMITED EDITION – 1858 PIECES With the participation of Carugati

AIR – LAND – SEA BRICE LECHEVALIER

ULYSSE NARDIN

dives, surfs and sails with Ben Thouard A passionate wave photographer with two million pictures to his credit, Ben Thouard is one of Ulysse Nardin’s nautical ambassadors, as are kitesurfer Alex Caizergues, diver Fred Buyle, surfer Mathieu Crepel and sailors Dan Lenard, Romain Pilliard and Sébastien Destremau.

FORTIS

with the Swiss Air Force aerobatics team For the 30th anniversary of its PC-7 Team, Swiss Air Force entrusted Fortis, a partner for nearly 15 years, with the task of designing a double limited series flying the squadron’s colors.

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TAG HEUER and its Formula E ambassador

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

Already involved as official timekeeper of the FIA Formula E Champion-

at the wheel in the WinteRace

ship since its creation in 2014, TAG Heuer now welcomes reigning world

True to the tradition of motor racing in general and the WinteRace in

champion Jean-Éric Vergne to its roster of ambassadors.

particular, Girard-Perregaux presented its new Quasar tourbillon model featuring an all-sapphire case during this Italian regularity rally last winter.

A hint of REBELLION at the Tour Auto 2019 After the Dakar rally and at the same time as the 24H Karting Essec, Rebellion Timepieces started the year strong by also sponsoring the classic Tour Auto Optic 2000 car race featuring 300 teams and which was won this year by the Swiss tandem Badan-Favaro.

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BEST OF 2019

AUDEMARS PIGUET audemarspiguet.com

CARL F.BUCHERER carl-f-bucherer.com ARMIN STROM arminstrom.com BVLGARI bulgari.com

CYRUS cyrus-watches.ch KERBEDANZ kerbedanz.com GIRARD-PERREGAUX girard-perregaux.com

JAEGER-LECOULTRE jaeger-lecoultre.com

PANERAI panerai.com

ROGER DUBUIS rogerdubuis.com

REBELLION rebellion-timepieces.com

PATEK PHILIPPE patek.com

TAG HEUER tagheuer.com

VACHERON CONSTANTIN vacheron-constantin.com

ULYSSE NARDIN ulysse-nardin.com

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URBAN JÃœRGENSEN urbanjurgensen.com

Right on time. Exclusively online. Since 2001

WorldTempus.com

Irresistible Elegance Amal Bed from Flou

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