GMT MIDDLE EAST EDITION 21 - FEBRUARY 2019

Interview Raymond Loretan

President of the Foundation of the GPHG

TECHNIQUE The strength of Chronometers TEST BENCH Zenith Defy Zero G

Jaquet Droz

Bird Repeater

Timepiece exclusively for Dubai Shopping Festival GMT ME No 20 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2019

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DEF Y EL PRIMERO 21

Z E N I T H , T H E F U T U R E O F S W I S S W AT C H M A K I N G

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C r e a t i n g n ew h e i g h t s The new Montblanc 1858 Geosphere.

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Récital 22 Grand Récital

5-patent timepiece developed and manufactured in-house.

Limited edition of 60 movements. 5-year international warranty.

Hours around the hand-painted hemispherical Earth. Retrograde minutes.

Seconds on the double face flying tourbillon. Double face date.

Tri-dimensional precision moon phase. 9-day power reserve.

Retrograde perpetual calendar on the reverse side.

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AHMED SEDDIQI & SONS, DUBAI I AL MANARA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY, ABU DHABI I AL AWADI, SULTANATE OF OMAN ASIA JEWELLERS, BAHRAIN I ATAMIAN, LEBANON I BEHBEHANI, KUWAIT I BLUE SALON, QATAR I KASHTIARAY, IRAN

F O U N D I N G M E M B E R O F T H E Q U A L I T Y F L E U R I E R C E R T I F I CAT I O N A N D PA R T N E R O F T H E F O U N DAT I O N H I G H H O R O L O G Y

Editorial SPRING 2019

E

very January the SIHH brings together 18 established watch brands and 15

independant watch brands in Geneva in a luxurious 45,000 square meters exhibition.

This internationally event welcomes

Organized since 1991 by the Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie is the most prestigious exhibition in the industry and highlights the important innovations for the coming year.

We can not mention SIHH without announcing the withdrawal of the two luxury watch

brands Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet from the prestigious SIHH fair. They are currently two of the five independent brands that are part of the annual trade fair held in Geneva.

Richard Mille, in a brief statement, said SIHH 2019 will be its last, reasoning that the trade fair model no longer works for the brand. The company knows for its technically advanced,

limited edition timepieces, first joined SIHH in 2010. The Richard Mille brand has developed considerably its international distribution network over the last few years, notably by opening a growing number of dedicated mono-brand boutiques.

Meanwhile, Audemars Piguet announced as well that they will end its collaboration with

SIHH after 2019. The Le Brassus- based luxury watch brand has been part of the trade fair for 19 years. The company also cited that the evolving nature of the watchmaking industry is

such that Audemars Piguet’s business model is changing and the manufacture has decided to explore new directions in order to forge closer and more direct relationships with end clients and watch enthusiasts worldwide.

FADI JAMIL I Publisher, Editor-in-Chief

Interview

GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM

Raymond Loretan

President of the Foundation of the GPHG

Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com Head of Creative / Graphic Designer: KYLE EVIDENTE | creative@gmtmag-me.com TECHNIQUE The strength of Chronometers

Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com

TEST BENCH Zenith Defy Zero G

Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com

GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma

Jaquet Droz

Bird Repeater

Timepiece exclusively for Dubai Shopping Festival GMT ME No 20 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2019

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GMT ME MAGAZINE NO19 2018

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

© Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.

TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM.

THE VALLÉE DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF FINE WATCHMAKING.

AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM

ROYAL OAK CHRONOGRAPH IN STAINLESS STEEL

AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES: THE DUBAI MALL | MALL OF THE EMIRATES

Contents SPRING 2019

28 EDITORIAL 30 CONTENTS 34 CONTRIBUTORS

BUSINESS 36 HOT NEWS 68 INTERVIEW: RAYMOND LORETAN President of the Foundation of the GPHG

ART

77

96 EDITOR’S PICKS 100 PORTFOLIO 120 PHOTOSHOOT 110 CRAFTMANSHIP

58 LIFESTYLE

NEW RELEASES

96 STORY 98 STRATEGY 113 JET-SET 128 ZOOMS

58 COVER STORY

Cité Du Temps, Chanel, Omega, Bucherer, Cyrus, Favre-Leuba, Delma, Eberhard & Co., Rebellion, Breguet, Longines & Hublot

92 TEST BENCH

Jaquet Droz: Bird Repeater, timepiece exclusively for Dubai Shopping Festival

72 TECHNIQUE

68 30

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

NOT AVAILABLE EVERYWHERE. WE INTEND TO KEEP IT THAT WAY. Moritz Grossmann’s watches have always been something special.

By mastering modern craftsmanship we are now taking his visionary spirit to the 21st century. www.grossmann-uhren.com

SCHÖNST E S DEU TSCH E S H A N DW E R K

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, Dubai Mall, Multi High Store, Ground floor, near the Grand Atrium, Dubai - UAE Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, Mall of the Emirates, Sheikh Zayed Road, Al Barsha 1, Dubai - UAE Al Majed Jewellery, Suhaim Bin Hamad Street, Al Sadd Area, Doha — Katar www.seddiqi.com

www.almajedgroup.me

Contents SPRING 2019

80 Focus

Close-up view of 9 new releases

80 ARMIN STROM Heart-felt resonance

81 GLASHÃœTTE ORIGINAL Truly universal

82 MAURICE LACROIX Obsession

83 JAQUET DROZ Tribute to astronomy

84 PANERAI Transatlantic timing

85 RICHARD MILLE Swiss (survival) knife

86 SEIKO

81

Another prize at the GPHG !

87 SINGER REIMAGINED The Track knows a trick or two

88 ROGER DUBUIS When superlatives meet and mingle

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86 32

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arraw

MARINE G

O

L

D

B

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rjwatches.com RJXWATCHES

Contributors Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor, Brice Lechevalier, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.

34

Camille Guille

Marie De Pimodan

Christophe Persoz

With a pseudo like perpetual.girl, how could one not take an interest in the instagram accounts she recommends ?

An expert watch journalist who presents new models as well as handling the Craftsmanship column.

This experienced watchmaker analyzes a watch that he wears for an entire week before delivering his technical and aesthetic verdict.

Brice Lechevalier

Paul O’Neil

Michèle Brunner

David Chokron

Involved in all aspects of the magazine, the founder seeks to convey a sense of pleasure to readers through the various articles.

The editor-in-chief of WorldTempus. com shares his insights on our feature articles based on his website’s coverage of the subject.

An experienced member of the GMT Publishing editorial team, she reports on brand events and products.

An expert watch journalist, he provides content for our Tech Insights column as well as presenting the latest new models.

Cloé Mugny

Pierre Millasson

A member of the GMT Publishing team, this translator by training contributes to the Editor’s Picks column.

This watch industry professional analyzes the auction world in the Collector’s Corner column.

Marie Le Berre

Edouard Haegi

A specialized watch journalist, she offers themed selections of new models.

Edouard Haegi is our inhouse photographer/videomaker, who also handles the Watch Photo Awards.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Hot News FADI JAMIL

WPHH 2019

ushers in a new era for Franck Muller GENTHOD, JANUARY 24TH 2019 – An acknowledged Master in the

as enjoying encounters inside the two new buildings with the

art of Grandes Complications, Franck Muller welcomed more than

brand’s watchmakers, whose know-how and expertise are well

2,500 guests to its Geneva estate, at the heart of the Watchland

established. On this occasion, Franck Muller unveiled several

site, for the 29th edition of the WPHH. This eagerly expected week

of its 2019 collections, including the Vanguard Crazy HoursTM,

provided the brand with an opportunity to present its two new

VanguardTM Lady Skeleton, VanguardTM Racing, VanguardTM

buildings serving to accommodate all its watchmaking artisans

Yachting Anchor Skeleton and Skafander. Not to mention

in a single location, as well as unveiling its new timepieces,

a new collection featuring an avant-garde reading of time,

including the innovative and atypical Remember collection.

named Remember.

In the heart of Genthod, the unique Watchland site

A maverick player in the field of Fine Watchmaking, the

2,500 guests for the 29th WPHH (World Presentation of Haute

Maison Franck Muller is consistently capable of standing out

Horlogerie), from January 14th to 18th. The watchmaking elite

from the crowd by offering ingenious timepieces demonstrating

met there to discover the two freshly completed buildings on

perfectly mastered know-how and expertise. On the occasion

the very spot where Franck Muller been established for nearly

of WPHH 2019, it presented its new collection, entitled

30 years. This project now makes it possible to accommodate

Remember, which lives up to its name as an invitation to

on a single site the 450 craftsmen and employees required

recall, to recollect, everything and at all times. The timepiece

to handle each stage of watch production. These two new

offers an unconventional reading of time, in a counter-

buildings, which represent an additional 16,000 m2 of floor

clockwise direction. The applied Arabic numerals gracing a

space, underline the unique character of the Watchland

sunray guilloché dial appear in the opposite direction to the

site. Featuring characteristic Swiss architecture, they vividly

conventional order, thanks to a mechanical self-winding

illustrate the success of the Maison Franck Muller. Vartan

movement that notably offers a 42-hour power reserve. Beating

Sirmakes, the watch brand’s Chief Executive Officer said he was

at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the heart of the

“happy to be able to welcome so many people to this unique

watch reinvents the reading of time. The undeniable Master of

place and to share the passion that drives us”.

Grandes Complications blends poetry, technique and precision in

The 2,500 participants in the event were able to stroll through the gardens of this undeniably beautiful place, as well

36

REMEMBER, ANTI-CLOCKWISE TIME

overlooking Lake Geneva and Mont-Blanc welcomed more than

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

this elegant and disconcerting timepiece, available in rose gold, white gold or steel.

Hot News FADI JAMIL

OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M in Ceramic and Titanium OMEGA’S RECENT MAKEOVER of the iconic Seamaster Diver 300M collection has integrated many of the brand’s modern materials and technologies.

In 2019, the evolution will continue with a bold new model built from black ceramic and titanium. This edgy combination delivers good looks as well as strength, and will certainly add an exciting new choice within the range.

Sized at 43.5 mm, the watch is distinguished by its polished/ brushed black ceramic case and grade 5 titanium caseback. The bezel is also formed with a grade 5 titanium base and includes a black ceramic ring with a diving scale in white enamel.

On the brushed black ceramic dial, OMEGA has laser-engraved the Diver 300M’s famous waves. Unlike the core collection, however, these waves are raised from the surface in a “positive relief” to create a unique effect. Also on the dial are PVD titanium hands and indexes, which are all filled with white Super-LumiNova.

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

MANUFACTURE CALIBRE ARF15 16½’’’

MIRRORED FORCE RESONANCE GUILLOCHÉ DIAL

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Making the Manhattan

Discover OMEGA’s dedication to the art of women’s watchmaking, through the creation of its newest Constellation SINCE ITS EARLIEST YEARS, OMEGA has always displayed a true commitment to women’s watchmaking. The Constellation Manhattan is one of the true jewels in that history. First released in 1982, it has now become one of the most iconic and loved ladies’ watches across the world.

Today, the modern Manhattan is the ultimate choice for a diverse lifestyle - effortlessly taking you from fast-paced working days to sophisticated evenings out. That’s why OMEGA has dedicated itself to uncompromising quality and elegance in every model.

The result is a truly feminine timepiece that lifts this famous collection to the next level. Take a closer look at the creative process and see how OMEGA has used modern technology and human touch to achieve the incredible finish.

When it came to creating the new Constellation Manhattan campaign, OMEGA chose to include not one, but four inspiring women at the heart of the brand.

Cindy Crawford, Nicole Kidman, Alessandra Ambrosio and Liu Shishi allrepresent the elegant and captivating qualities of the collection.

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Breguet’s Reine De Naples: Pink Mother-of-Pearl and diamonds for valentine’s day 2019 CREATED AS PART OF BREGUET’S time-honored tradition, the

oval piece is completed by a setting of diamonds on the bezel and

Reine de Naples is adorned with mother-of-pearl in hues of pink

the dial flange.

and mauve, encircled by diamonds. The timepiece ticks to the

SIGNED BREGUET

rhythm of a self-winding caliber with moon phases.

For Valentine’s Day, Breguet has added a new creation to the Reine de Naples collection, which historically has been designed

Breguet. The mother-of-pearl and silvered gold dial features

for women. The House of Breguet created this collection in 2002

the signature fine blued hands. The individual number of each

to pay homage to the wristwatch that Abraham-Louis Breguet

timepiece appears at the top of the hours chapter. If the owner so

made for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1812 – the first

wishes, Breguet will record her name in its archives, kept since

known wristwatch in the world. Inspired by this timepiece, the

the late eighteenth century, alongside the names of the House’s

Reine de Naples is distinguished by its fine curved, oval, and

most prestigious patrons.

slightly elongated case. This year, Breguet plays with shades of

Hours and minutes are displayed in Roman numerals on a

pink, inspired once again by the original display – with small

glossy circular hours chapter around an engine-turned Clous de

off-center seconds. A manufacture caliber with moon phase ticks

Paris pattern. The small off-center seconds feature an engine-

inside this limited edition piece of which only 28 exist.

turned flame design. Lastly, there is a power-reserve indicator at

ROMANTIC PALETTE

the top of the dial.

The dial of the Valentine’s Day Reine de Naples 8905 is dressed in iridescent pale pink mother-of-pearl. A moon and several stars

42

The craftsmanship of Breguet’s artisans ensures that the dial is easy to read, in a neoclassical style so dear to Abraham-Louis

VALENTINE’S DAY 2019 The white gold case of the Reine de Naples 8905 encapsulates

in white gold take their place against the deeper pink of the

a mechanical jewel – the 537DRL2 self-winding manufacture

moon-phase indicator. The pink cabochon-cut sapphire set on the

movement, with 45 hours of power reserve. Each of the 246

crown lends the composition a sparkling touch. A mauve-colored

components forming the caliber visible through the sapphire-crystal

alligator leather strap adds to this romantic palette. Finally, the

caseback is carefully decorated, as is the tradition of Breguet.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

TOURBILLON CHRONOMETER NO.36 ROYAL COLLECTION

Swiss Craftsmanship

www.arnoldandson.com

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Rado HyperChrome Ultra Light Limited Edition

wins prestigious design prize recognising excellence and innovation LENGNAU, SWITZERLAND – JANUARY 2019, For the 8th year

pocket watches, the understated simplicity and unparallelled

in a row, pioneering Swiss watchmaker Rado has received

legibility of the sunray high-tech ceramic dial gives the watch

a prestigious GOOD DESIGN Award from The Chicago

a classic appearance.

Athenaeum Museum of Architecture and Design.

This year’s prize was awarded for the HyperChrome Ultra Light, a new product in the 2018 collection that was created with lightness in mind. It was made using Rado’s innovative

for as many years as it is guaranteed to look good.

The HyperChrome Ultra Light was recognised in this year’s

ultra-light high-tech ceramic (Si3N4), which is half the weight

awards in the ‘Personal’ category. The jury looks for “quality

of standard Rado high-tech ceramic but even harder and more

design, function and aesthetics at a standard beyond ordinary

scratch-resistant. It is a truly exceptional material.

consumer products.” Rado is proud to have been recognised for

The super modern materials and Rado’s signature monobloc case construction contrast strongly but impressively with the dial design. Taking its inspiration from 20th Century

44

Drawing inspiration from the past but with one eye firmly on the future, the HyperChrome Ultra Light is sure to appeal

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

its dedication to fulfilling this criteria in its continued mission to produce watches designed to stand the test of time.

Hot News FADI JAMIL

CITIZEN’s “#MyBetterStartsNow” campaign seeks out UAE’s inspired and driven individuals DUBAI, UAE (DECEMBER 12, 2018): Seeking out, celebrating

have a positive influence on the people and communities around

and rewarding inspiring heroes of the UAE is the aim of

them. Their role in the campaign involves telling their own

Japanese watch manufacturer, CITIZEN with the launch of its

inspirational stories through social media channels, thereby

“#MyBetterStartsNow” campaign unveiled today at Five hotel,

encouraging other members of the population to come forward

Palm Jumeirah.

with theirs. The most deserving and altruistic back story will

The initiative reflects CITIZEN’s “Driven” philosophy, which

win 25,000 dirhams as a donation to their cause. Individuals

underpins its ambitious aspirations while reflecting its position

can nominate themselves, a friend or family member through

as a global pioneer in watch technology. It also marks CITIZEN’s

a dedicated website www.citizen-me.com/mybetterstartsnow

100th anniversary year providing a significant opportunity to

or through the influencers’ own social channels where they are

communicate to both existing and new customers the innovative

invited to share their story.

drive and passion which has ensured the longevity of the brand.

CITIZEN has collaborated with four UAE-based influencers

46

The four “#MyBetterStartsNow” influencers represent different cultures and backgrounds, but all share a similar tale of self-

who themselves have been and continue to be “Driven” through

improvement and life-changing aspiration that has effected

their committed endeavours to self-improve, and subsequently

positive change.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Greubel Forsey

unveil its 2019 Creations which are presented at SIHH ART PIECE EDITION HISTORIQUE AN ARTISTIC AND ARCHITECTURAL CHEF-D’OEUVRE - Looking into the wide open heart at its three-dimensional construction and highly original geometry, the new Art Piece Edition Historique crowns the avant-garde aesthetic approach behind numerous exceptional creations. Combining technicity, exclusivity and the finest craftsmanship, this 33-piece limited edition (of which the first 11 are in platinum) presents a new vision of time in the spirit of the revived and renewed notion of Fine Watchmaking by Greubel Forsey.

BALANCIER CONTEMPORAIN THE ESSENCE OF GREUBEL FORSEY IN 39.6 MM - In creating the Balancier Contemporain, a white gold 33-piece limited edition, Greubel Forsey imagined providing a particularly compact showcase for its exclusive balance-wheel system. Creating such a moderately-sized new movement and dial imposed the challenge of maintaining well-balanced forms and pleasing proportions, along with clear legibility and cutting-edge performance. Mission accomplished with this powerfully structured timepiece featuring all the Greubel Forsey signature characteristics.

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Jaeger-LeCoultre

practices the Art of Precision with the new Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel THE MASTER GRANDE TRADITION Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel is the latest generation of multi-axis tourbillon to emerge from Jaeger-LeCoultre The fifth multi-axis tourbillon from Jaeger-LeCoultre, with a size reduction in the redesigned tourbillon component to create a more wearable watch, A Westminster carillon minute repeater that replicates the chime of the famed Big Ben clock tower in London, with a silence-reduction mechanism to optimise melody cadence, Incorporates a one-minute constant-force mechanism to provide consistent energy to the sensitive tourbillon, resulting in a precisely jumping minute hand and a more precise minute repeater mechanism, A sleek new contemporary aesthetic that pairs traditional haut-de-gamme finishing with modern, wearable watches at the top of the mechanical watchmaking hierarchy.

The Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel is the result of 186 years of fine watchmaking expertise and a spirit of innovation that continues to this day.

Reflecting the blend of patrimony and modernity is the design of the watch, which emphasises the round profile of the Master Grande Tradition case.

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Baselworld 2019 Preview:

L.U.C XPS Twist QF An original angle on Haute Horlogerie

THE CHIC AURA EXUDED by contemporary gentlemen is based on respect for rules, as well as refined transgression of the latter. With its offset small seconds appearing at 7 o’clock, a signature feature of the Twist series within the L.U.C collection, the L.U.C XPS Twist QF in ethically certified “Fairmined” white gold – issued in a 250-piece limited edition – opts for controlled eccentricity and elegant asymmetry. A slim fit on the wrist, rich textures, high-quality production and an ethical dimension: nothing is lacking here, not even a touch of extravagance.

Haute Horlogerie conventions are based on symmetry and aesthetic order that elicit an instinctive visual response. L.U.C XPS Twist QF offers another take. Like a woven cashmere necktie that reveals its underside, this timepiece has fun with the offset positions of the crown and small seconds, while incorporating all the fundamental qualities of the L.U.C collection. By taking its place within most of Chopard’s cherished certification programmes, the L.U.C XPS Twist QF displays a wealth of elegant characteristics. Fleurier Quality Foundation, chronometer certification, a case in ethically certified “Fairmined” gold: this timepiece goes the extra mile beyond aesthetic prowess to embody the most accomplished craftsmanship.

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Hot News FADI JAMIL

Girard-Perregaux becomes Major Partner of the 34th International Automobile Festival GIRARD-PERREGAUX is to serve as Major Partner of the

watches. Used by drivers to measure split times or to time two

prestigious International Automobile Festival, of which the

events with the same start time but different arrival times,

34th edition is taking place in Paris, at the Invalides, as of

chronographs have always played an essential role in moto sport.

January 29th 2019. Festivities kicked off with the annual Grand

Automobile Festival is a unique exhibition of Concept Cars

automobile design.

representing true masterpieces of creativity. From January 31st

To mark the event, Patrick Pruniaux, CEO Girard-Perregaux

to February 3rd 2019, the public will be able to discover the most

was present on January 29th and had the pleasure of handing

beautiful concept cars of the year in the heart of a transparent

the Special Jury Prize to Adrian Van Hooydonk, BMW Group

3000 sqm structure installed on Place Vauban, at the foot of the

Vice-President of Design at the Official Grand Prix Award

Dôme des Invalides. Builders and designers come to exhibit their

ceremony, an exceptional evening bringing together more than

creations, staged by architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte. Visitors

600 personalities from the automobile and art world.

to the show will also be able to discover the world of Girard-

Girard-Perregaux has maintained consistently close ties with

54

Regarded as the “Car Design Fashion Week”, the International

Prix awards celebrating the finest achievements in the field of

Perregaux, which is delighted to be presenting exceptional

the world of motor racing by partnering major events in this

timepieces and museum pieces that have marked the history of

field, drawing on its expertise in the production of chronograph

the Manufacture, whose origins date back to 1791.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

NEW COLLECTION THE ITALIAN-MADE FURNITURE THAT YOU HAVE ALWAYS DREAMED OF, FOR THE LIVING, DINING AND BEDROOM AREAS, IS ON SALE AT SPECIAL PRICES. DISCOVER OUR FREE INTERIOR DESIGN SERVICE IN-STORE. NEW COLLECTION THE ITALIAN-MADE FURNITURE THAT YOU HAVE ALWAYS DREAMED OF, FOR LIVING, DINING AND BEDROOM AREAS, IS ON SALE AT SPECIAL PRICES. VISITTHE US AT: DISCOVER OUR FREERoad, INTERIOR SERVICE IN-STORE. Dubai: Sheikh Zayed Tel 04DESIGN 3380777 | Umm Hurair Road , Tel 04 3377152 Abu Dhabi: Landmark Tower, Tel 02 6444048 (Valet parking available) Email: sales@westernfurniture-uae.com | www.natuzzi.com VISIT US AT: Dubai: Sheikh Zayed Road, Tel 04 3380777 | Umm Hurair Road , Tel 04 3377152 Abu Dhabi: Landmark Tower, Tel 02 6444048 (Valet parking available) Email: sales@westernfurniture-uae.com | www.natuzzi.com

NZ Melpot GMT DPS Nov 2018.indd All Pages

11/22/18 10

Cover Story FADI JAMIL

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Jaquet Droz

unveils a showstopping timepiece exclusively for Dubai Shopping Festival Luxury Swiss watchmaker Jaquet Droz and Rivoli Group unveiled an exclusive new version of the brand’s iconic Bird Repeater automaton at Jaquet Droz’s branch in The Dubai Mall. The exclusive launch of the one-of-a-kind watch is part of the city’s largest shopping extravaganza, Dubai Shopping Festival (DSF), an initiative by Dubai Festivals and Retail Establishment (DFRE).

T

he falcon, the national symbol of the United Arab Emirates, was honoured in the exclusive new model that draws on 280 years of the Jaquet Droz Art of Astonishment. Engraved and painted entirely by hand,

the 47mm white gold case presents a desert scene in mother-of-pearl, while the yellow and red gold depicts father and son falconers. This unusually complex automaton comes to life to the sound of an impressive Fine Watchmaking complication: the minute repeater. It can chime the hours, quarter-hours and minutes on demand via the cathedral gongs nestled inside the movement.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 59

Ahmed Al Khaja, CEO of Dubai Festivals and Retail Establishment commented: “Jaquet Droz’s exclusive introduction not only celebrates

Lattmann, CEO of Jaquet Droz.

an iconic brand’s remarkable new model, but also the UAE’s distinct

The stunning one-of-a-kind automaton wristpiece is on display at

heritage. It is the launch of brand exclusives like the Bird Repeater

the Jaquet Droz boutique at The Dubai Mall as part of the 24th DSF

Falcon timepiece that makes the Dubai Shopping Festival so special,

celebrations and brand exclusives initiative.

and we are grateful to our partners for making this event a must-see element of this year’s festival.”

60

Festivals and Retail Establishment at The Dubai Mall” said Christian

For more information, please visit www.mydsf.ae or @DSFSocial and #MyDSF for the latest news, information and events.

“Jaquet Droz timepieces have always been inspired by nature, which

DSF is supported by strategic partners which include: Emirates

is very great source of inspiration, for painting and engraving, as

Airline, Emaar (The Dubai Mall), Majid Al Futtaim (Mall of the

well as for our automata, which attempt to replicate the movements

Emirates, City Centre Mirdif, City Centre Deira), AW Rostamani

of nature. The millennia-old art of falconry, central element of the

Group, Al Futtaim Group (Dubai Festival City Mall), Nakheel Malls

identity of the United Arab Emirates, also inspires us to realize this

(Ibn Battuta Mall, Dragon Mart 1, Dragon Mart 2), Dubai Duty Free,

exceptional piece. We are very proud to present this unique piece Bird

ENOC, Al Zarooni Group (Mercato), Meraas and Etisalat. The key

Repeater Falcon in Jaquet Droz boutique in collaboration with Dubai

sponsors include VISA and Jumbo.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

ALEXANDRE C watch collection

Boutiques : Avenues Mall KUWAIT CITY Tel 225 97 609 - Royal Plaza Mall DOHA Tel 441 31 430 Panorama Mall RIYADH Tel 112 816 159 - Thalia Mall JEDDAH Tel 122 635 031 City Centre Mall MANAMA Tel 175 81 208 - World Trade Centre Mall ABU DHABI Tel 263 13 030

www.charriol.com | www.facebook.com/CharriolOfficial KUWAIT : Trafalgar Tel 188 1188 OMAN : Muscat Watch Center Tel +968 245 02 886 QATAR : Al-Muftah Tel +974 444 41 320 SAUDI ARABIA : Al-Hussaini Trading Co. Tel +966 265 26 000 UAE Abu Dhabi : MR Khoory & Sons Tel +971 262 22 200

Editor’s Picks BRICE LECHEVALIER

Sculptures MB&F

BOVET BY PININFARINA

CYRUS

Ottantasei Horological Machine No.9 Aliens have their official brand, which nonetheless remains firmly grounded, even with a squadron of mechanical UFOs.

64

When the ‘design pope’ meets the peak of the watchmaking pyramid, the exceptional becomes timeless, including with Grand Complications.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Phoenix Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon A bridge between generations of watchmakers, featuring modern design suspended above age-old horological genius.

The venerable Manufacture perpetuates the tradition of one-of-a-kind models brimming with Grand Complications and intended for highly demanding collectors.

Dans la classification des arts, la sculpture apparaît en tant que 2e Art et appartient au groupe des Beaux-Arts. Depuis 2012, l’art de la mesure du temps s’est imposé naturellement comme le 12e Art. Les horlogers ont de tous temps utilisé la sculpture pour magnifier leurs garde-temps. Le mariage du 2e Art et du 12e Art a donné naissance à des œuvres de toute forme, séduisant les adeptes des arts classiques ou de l’art contemporain. A chacun son style.

Within the classification of the world’s various arts, sculpture is regarded as the 2nd art and belongs to the ‘Fine Arts’ group. Since 2012, the art of time measurement has naturally established itself as the 12th Art. Watchmakers have always sought to use sculpture to magnify their timepieces. Combining the 2nd Art and the 12th Art has given rise to all kinds of works, appealing to devotees of the classical arts as well as of contemporary art. Each to his (or her) own style !

HYT H20

RALPH LAUREN The American Western

RJ

Golden Bridge Titane DLC

Arraw Marine

canaran/stock.adobe.com

CORUM

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 65

Editor’s Picks BRICE LECHEVALIER

Hurray for vintage !

The vintage wave is sweeping through all watch brands and across all price segments, often with a little preference for motorsports or a glorious military past. All tastes, shapes and colors are being revisited, leaving it up to each wrist to choose the best-matched combination.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN Fiftysix Calendrier Complet

GRAHAM Chronofighter

CERTINA

Grand Vintage

DS PH200M

ULYSSE NARDIN

xamtiw/stock.adobe.com

Torpilleur Military

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Interview BRICE LECHEVALIER

Raymond Loretan President of the Foundation of the GPHG

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What did you think of your first prize-giving ceremony as President ?

This ceremony was a success in several ways : on the one hand there was a lot of emotion, which is essential for the ceremony itself, but also because it reveals the passion of the people who express themselves in it and which they convey to the public.

This emotional dimension is decisive, and we cannot talk about watchmaking without it. With regard to the ceremony, which has a reputation for being somewhat lengthy, an excellent pace was achieved that served to make it catchy, interesting, funny and touching, even though there is always room for improvement. The jury’s choices were naturally their own. In keeping with the neutrality of the Grand Prix, it is certainly not for me to make an assessment. In any case, these choices also serve to promote the watch industry as a whole, and the introduction of the Challenge category and the Audacity Prize has served to broaden the scope of the awards.

Do you think that the major watch brands are sufficiently well represented ?

The GPHG naturally wishes to represent the watch industry as broadly as possible, and in particular the major brands. They were indeed strongly represented in the final selection. But some of them still have reservations and we must ensure that

“Watches are all about emotion”

the framework conditions of the Grand Prix enable them to find their place within it. Promoting the entire industry is beneficial to all brands, including the big-name brands. They also benefit from the international influence of this event… Each year, everyone has a chance and the jury of experts make conscious and independent choices.

You mentioned on-stage a plan to evolve the selection format…

This is a sensitive issue that the GPHG has been working on for some time with the small group of experts which suggests the categories and jury members to the Board of the Foundation.

As I said in my speech at the award ceremony, it is time to question our selection system : should we broaden the selection body represented by the current jury, or simply better define the criteria applied to the choice of watches so as to avoid possible overweighting of brand profiles that are not sufficiently representative of the market ? Objectively, the 30 or so members of the jury include very competent and prominent personalities ; the two-stage voting process is well controlled ; and this edition ran very smoothly. There is no need to change things merely for the sake of change. But we will be accelerating our thought process and when the time comes I would like to consult watch brands on a possible new Grand Prix blueprint. 

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The 72 pre-selected watches were exhibited at Geneva’s Musée d’art et d’histoire (right), as well as in Hong Kong, Singapore and Venice.

In your opinion, what do watch brands expect from the GPHG ?

And what about the public ?

Several things : first and foremost, the GPHG must be the best

The GPHG has several audiences, but all of them eagerly await

ambassador for the watch industry, regardless of the winners’

the ‘Oscars’ for the world’s most beautiful watches. Several

identity, and we must further intensify our international

markets – notably including Russia and China – are now

influence. For example, during our exhibitions in Venice, Hong

interested in live broadcasting of the ceremony and its format

Kong and Singapore, guests at our private events, who were able

thus remains crucial. As far as the watchmaking community

to handle the watches while benefiting from the explanations

is concerned, it wishes to have a representative selection of

of an expert, were delighted with the experience. The marketing

the finest watches, while remaining attentive to the selection

impact on the selected brands of these ephemeral and

criteria in order to avoid a lack of interest on the part of this

personalized events is very beneficial. Media interest is intense,

community. And for the latter, the GPHG must also be a

and we spent a lot of time meeting media representatives.

beautiful family celebration that facilitates global networking, a

Our role is also to educate customers and especially future

great annual highlight for all stakeholders in the watchmaking

enthusiasts. In Singapore, for example, we invited about

industry.

30 students from the Singapore Technical University to our exhibition and I was struck by their strong attraction to the technicality, design and aesthetics of watches. In the 10-day exhibition at the Geneva Musée d’art et d’histoire we also offered visitors workshops designed to help them understand what a watch is. Finally, I think that the GPHG with its “not for profit” approach can also play a unifying role among other promotional platforms such as trade shows. We will intensify the dialogue in this direction.

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Technique DAVID CHOKRON

The strength of

chronometers 72

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

TAG HEUER Carrera “Tête de Vipère”

Chronograph Tourbillon Chronometer, chronometer-certified by Besançon Observatory

CHOPARD L.U.C XPS, chronometer-certified

by the COSC and bearing the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark

King Louis XVIII of France is reputed to have stated that “Punctuality is the politeness of kings”. Swiss mechanical watchmaking has of course made this proverb its own and produces vast numbers of accurate watches.

F

or royalty, exactness in terms of timing was perhaps a sign of politeness, but it was not a personal issue. Official time was just one variable factor among many others for the

absolute monarchs of Old Europe, who could simply decree a time change at will. The same still goes for certain countries with offset or politicized time zones, such as Iran and Venezuela. But on an individual level, maintaining punctuality calls for instruments on which one must be able to rely. Watchmaking strives to achieve a degree of precision that is all the harder to attain with mechanical portable watches. A field of expertise that immediately points to Swiss made production, the only one to take a massive collective interest in the principle of chronometry (precision timing). Tossed and turned by daily life and intrinsically fragile, composed of a multitude of small parts in motion, it struggles to adhere as closely as possible to the temporal reality it is designed to follow on our wrist. The art of the watch that tells the correct time is profoundly embedded in the very nature of Swiss watchmaking, even though that is easily forgotten faced with the dominance of design and the strength of brands. 

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73

ULYSSE NARDIN Marine Torpilleur Military, chronometer-certified by the COSC

LONGINES Record, chronometer-certified

by the COSC

PARMIGIANI Toric Qualité Fleurier, certified by

the Fleurier Quality Foundation

RARITY There are however fifty or so brands that wish to offer their audience watches with certified precision. They represent 6% of Swiss watches exported. Behind this figure lies a reality : chronometry cannot be decreed, nor can it be manipulated. It has its rules, its standards, a kind of code of ethics on which the public can rely, since it implies the need for external bodies to certify the quality of their timing (rate). The Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), the Besançon and Glashütte Observatories, the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, along with the Fleurier Quality Foundation, are all institutions that are sufficiently dependable, well-equipped and independent to ensure that their rating certificates are significant, reliable and trustworthy. Some of them take an interest in the movements alone, others in casedup movements, and all are part of a quality-driven approach yielding tangible results. And despite the risk represented by potential public failure in a precision trial, the fifth edition of the extremely challenging International Chronometry Contest will take place between March and December 2019. 

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Paper-based

or At home or in the

Select

your annual subscription

Details and registration on the Magazine section of

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TUDOR Black Bay Fifty-Eight, chronometer-certified

by the COSC

WEMPE Chronometerwerke Automatic,

chronometer-certified by GlashĂźtte Observatory

ROLEX Cellini Dual Time, chronometer-

certified by the COSC

THE CONCEPT Admittedly, the precision standards on which these institutions base their work are not the most stringent one could imagine.

With a maximum tolerated variation in rate of between -4 and +6 seconds per day, international chronometry criteria have stagnated for 40 years. Accepting a monthly deviation of three minutes at worst is both good and yet not good enough, given that progress is a cardinal virtue of watchmaking. Yet COSC figures show that this appeal continues to grow. Between 2009 and 2017, the number of models submitted for certification rose from 1,160,000 to 1,934,000. This increase shows that the public is responding to the call for accuracy.

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BAUME & MERCIER Clifton Baumatic,

chronometer-certified by the COSC

PAUL O’NEIL Chief Editor of WorldTempus.com

I

t seems a little anachronistic that we are still talking about chronometers in our ultra-synchronized and ultra-precise age. For high-frequency traders on the stock

exchange, even a millisecond can make a difference. Yet for mechanical watches we are happy to accept a variation of between -4 and +6 seconds per day for a chronometer. As David mentions in his article, this international benchmark

CERTAINTY

has remained unchanged for over 40 years. It is perhaps why

There is indeed an obvious pleasure to be derived from wearing a chronometer.

brands such as Omega, Patek Philippe and Rolex have esta-

Even though this title is borne by highly affordable and extremely expensive

blished their own criteria that exceed those of the Official

watches alike, it represents a demonstration of good taste, a visible token of

Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). It’s a subject

high standards, and one might almost say a form of moral elegance. The cer-

we have dealt with in detail on worldtempus.com recently.

tainty of superior quality in a world that has few such labels is reassuring. The ability to cut to the chase amid a welter of sales arguments proclaiming total, ancestral and impossible-to-verify quality is also very valuable. Without necessarily being spelled out, the most boastful expressions are bandied about in the watch industry and are impossible to contradict in the absence of objective testing. If exactness is the politeness of kings, chronometer certification is the honesty of brands.

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77

UAE MANSOUR JEWELLERS (ABU DHABI) - 02 626 4260 | MANSOUR JEWELLERS (DUBAI) - 04 228 1115 PARIS GALLERY (DUBAI) - 04 330 8289 | LEVANT (DUBAI) - 04 434 1227

QATAR - BLUE SALON - 04 446 6111 KUWAIT - TRAFALGAR GENERAL TRADING - 188 1188 SAUDI ARABIA - AL GHAZALI TRADING RIYADH - 011 474 4000 | JEDDAH - 012 647 3000 | KHOBAR - 013 898 0040

Focus

ARMIN STROM

PIERRE MILLASSON

Heart-felt resonance For devotees of technical marvels, the Mirrored Force Resonance by Armin Strom already resounded like the promise of a radiant future.

The development of the “resonance clutch spring”, after three years of sustained endeavors, made it possible to reinvent and improve this concept first observed by Christiaan Huygens in the 17th century.

The main advantage of this mechanical feat was an approximately 20% improvement in the precision of a watch by synchronizing two separate and independent (naturally in-house) movements. Two calibers also meant two potential displays. This quite logically led to the birth of the Masterpiece 1 Dual Time Resonance, and while this new configuration offers the possibility of having two barrels per movement and a larger power reserve, it also and above all features a very different design. The oval-shaped case in grade 5 titanium frames an incredible view of the fabulous oscillations of the regulating device. Below it are two delicately guilloché subdials and a 24-hour indicator appearing in an aesthetically simple, resolutely neo-classical style. A rare mechanical masterpiece that immediately resonated with our emotions and our watchmaking dreams.

Mirrored Force Resonance CASE : grade 5 titanium, exhibition caseback,

glareproofed sapphire crystal, waterresistant to 50m SIZE : 58 x 19.5mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding (Caliber ARF17, 110h power reserve), patented resonance clutch spring, double off-centered hour indications, four barrels, 419 components FUNCTIONS : Movement 1 : hours, minutes, 24-hour indicator, power-reserve indicator Movement 2 : hours, minutes, power-reserve indicator DIALS : hand-guilloché STRAP : black alligator leather EIGHT-PIECE LIMITED SERIES

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Focus

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL

DAVID CHOKRON

Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite CASE : stainless steel, transparent sapphire crystal and

caseback, water-resistant to 50m SIZE : 44mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding with a three-quarter rotor, Caliber 89-02, 72h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, large date, power-reserve indicator, two day/night indicators, local time, worldtime with summer/ winter time DIAL : matt white, blue appliques and fonts STRAP : black alligator leather with stainless steel folding clasp

Truly universal Although worldtime watches are sometimes referred to as universal time models, they are not necessarily so. Glashütte Original, ‘the other’ German Fine Watchmaking brand, had resolved the issue with its Senator Cosmopolite in 2012, which is now introduced with a steel case. The Senator Cosmopolite is probably the world’s most complete, convenient and intelligent worldtime watch. Complete, because it covers all 37 time zones on the planet, including those with a one-, two- or three-quarter hour difference compared with full hours, including India, which is UTC+ 5:30. The actual time experienced for 1.3 billion people is impossible to display on a conventional multi-time-zone watch, which has no dedicated and independent minutes hand. Convenient, because the Cosmopolitan classifies time zones into two categories, depending on whether or not they apply winter time. The city-name disks typical of worldtime watches are spread between two apertures, one of which is called DST, which stands for Daylight Saving Time (summer time). Intelligent, because these functions – that are must-haves for frequent travelers and yet so rare – are complemented by day/night indicators, a large date and a power reserve, all driven by a superb self-winding caliber.

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Focus

MAURICE LACROIX

PIERRE MILLASSON

Obsession Have you already felt that strange sense of pride, coupled with a compulsive urge to observe your wrist every minute of the day, without really wanting to check the time ? Although well-known among watch collectors, this syndrome is not confined to owners of a few rare and incredibly expensive timepieces. It is above all the expression of impeccable design and of immediately perceptible true quality – exactly like that exuded by the new Aikon Automatic by Maurice Lacroix. This bronze model unites all the ingredients of a best-seller, including powerful masculine architecture, a vibrant on-trend material and noble colors. Yet it is doubtless the play on light and textures that makes this watch so appealing. The delicate contrast between satin-brushed and polished surfaces on the case echoes the squareshaped depth effects of the dial and its applied hour-markers. The same goes for the bezel adorned with six rider-tabs, the Aikon signature feature adding a further elegantly virile touch. A real horological success at an affordable price, that will delight exactly five hundred people worldwide and become a lasting obsession.

Aikon Automatic CASE : bronze, sapphire caseback, water-

resistant to 20m DIAMETER : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (ML115, 38h power reserve), rhodium-plated, circulargrained and snailed decoration, rotor with vertical Côtes de Genève and sunburst motif FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes and seconds DIAL : blue squares STRAP : Blue calfskin “Easy Change” strap with ecru topstitching, steel and bronze butterfly clasp 500-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

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Focus

JAQUET DROZ

MICHÈLE BRUNNER

Astrale Grande Heure Minute CASE : stainless steel, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to

30m SIZE : 43mm, 11.77mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical selfwinding Jaquet Droz Caliber 1169. Si, 28,800 vph, 68h power reserve, silicon hairspring and pallet horns, double barrel FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds DIAL : slate gray or silver-toned, with respectively rhodium-plated or blued hands STRAPS : slate gray or black alligator leather, stainless steel pin buckle

Tribute to astronomy At Jaquet Droz, the hours, minutes and seconds are large or small, and their size determines the collection names as well as the composition of the watch dials. The most iconic collection is doubtless the Grande Seconde, with its two hours&minutes and seconds subdials forming a figure eight. Remove the large seconds, and you get the Petite Heure Minute line, with its 12 o’clock offset dial.

The watch brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds rarely uses central large hands, which makes the Grande Heure Minute model even more original. Part of the Astrale collection dedicated to astronomy, the two new Grande Minute models with slate gray or silver-toned dials, are joining the black onyx version launched in 2010. The pure, elegantly understated Grande Heure Minute is uncluttered by any superfluous information : three hands, no numerals, but instead tiny dots marking off the minutes and original rhodium-plated studs every five minutes.

All of which appear on a spacious dial whose emptiness recalls the vastness of the heavens, especially on the slate gray version. The small seconds subdial offset at 9 o’clock, rimmed with steel and more pared-down than ever, bears only a single hand featuring a planet-shaped counterweight, an additional nod to the inspiration behind the Astrale collection.

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Focus PANERAI

MARIE LE BERRE

Luminor Regatta Transat Classique CASE : polished and satin-brushed titanium,

sapphire crystal, solid engraved back, waterresistant to 100m DIAMETER : 47mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Panerai Caliber P.9100/R, 72h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph, regatta countdown, nautical scale, seconds zero-reset DIAL : blue, with luminescent numerals, hour-markers and hands STRAP : blue rubber, trapeze-shaped buckle in satin-brushed titanium. Second strap supplied 150-PIECE LIMITED SERIES

Transatlantic

timing

With the limited-edition Luminor Regatta Transat Classique, Officine Panerai is celebrating the 2019 edition of the daunting classic sailing race for which it is serving as principal partner for the third time : the Panerai Transat Classique. This January, participants will set off from Lanzarote in the Canary Islands for the island of Saint Kitts in the Lesser Antilles.

The commemorative watch is a flyback chronograph intended for passionate sea-lovers and chiefly distinguished by a regatta countdown function. Extremely simple to use thanks to innovative technology incorporated into the movement, it serves to count off – by means of an orange hand controlled by a pusher at 4 o’clock – the minutes and seconds preceding a race start. This deliberately maritime instrument is also fitted with a tachymeter scale expressed in nautical knots to calculate the speed of a boat, along with water resistance to 100 meters notably ensured by the brand’s characteristic crown guard. The caseback is engraved with a map of the Atlantic Ocean depicting the 3,000 nautical-mile course as well as the race logo.

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Focus

RICHARD MILLE

DAVID CHOKRON

RM 25-01 Tourbillon Adventure Sylvester Stallone CASE : titanium and carbon TPT®, transparent sapphire crystal

and caseback, water-resistant to 100m, bidirectional bezel or removable compass bezel, spirit level, water purification tablet storage compartment SIZE : 50.85 x 23.65mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, titanium RM 25-01 caliber with tourbillon regulator, 70h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, power-reserve indicator, torque indicator, function selector DIAL : skeletonized, carbon inner bezel ring STRAP : camopatterned rubber with titanium pin buckle 20-PIECE LIMITED SERIES

Swiss (survival) knife Richard Mille has become a specialist in the production of ultra-robust watches. And ‘ultra’ is no mere word, since these timepieces are worn in reallife conditions by racing drivers, tennis players, golfers, skiers and polo players, even if that occasionally means breaking them. These watches’ resistance to violent impacts has led the brand to explore a whole new territory. After an encounter with Sylvester Stallone, Richard Mille is unveiling a dedicated 20-watch limited series clearly intended for survivalists, extreme adventurers and larger-than-life action heroes. The chronograph and tourbillon movement is housed in a case measuring 51mm in diameter and 23mm thick. Caliber RM25-01 is an evolved and reinforced version of the mechanism already used by the brand on several occasions. The bidirectional bezel may be swapped for a removable compass bezel made of titanium and carbon TPT® and fitted with a dedicated lid. A spirit level on the case of the side serves to balance the compass and is accompanied by a small compartment at 2 o’clock designed to provide safe storage of water purification tablets (or other valuable tiny items). The volumes, functions, added extras, along with the movement, the materials and the colors, all combine to ensure that the RM 25-01 Sylvester Stallone lives up to its name embodying its destiny : adventure.

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Focus SEIKO

DAVID CHOKRON

Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Re-creation SLA025 CASE : stainless steel, transparent domed sapphire crystal,

solid caseback, water-resistant to 300m, screw-lock crown offset at 4 o’clock, unidirectional rotating crown, magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m SIZE : 44.8 x 15.7mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, high-frequency (5Hz) Caliber 8L55, 55-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : black with 4N gilded luminescent hands and hour-markers, applied date aperture STRAP : silicon with stainless steel pin buckle 1,500-PIECE LIMITED SERIES

Another prize at

the GPHG !

At the last Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, Seiko once again won a prize, and an important one at that. The Prospex 1968 Diver’s Re-creation was honored as the best Sports Watch of 2018. Four years ago, the Japanese brand had won its first prize in the annual awards, and the movement beating inside the winning watch already belonged to the Hi-Beat family.

These self-winding calibers entirely produced by Seiko operate at the rare frequency of 5Hz, corresponding to 36,000 vibrations per hour. So yes indeed, Seiko did choose to fit a highfrequency movement inside an authentic dive watch that is water-resistant to 300 meters and equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel – in short, the essentials required for serious immersion. But it was not so much this caliber that was saluted, as a longstanding tradition of efficient dive watches with a distinctive design that are greatly appreciated by both professionals and amateurs, whether experienced or novices, across the entire price range.

The prize also rewards a deliberately retro style that is very much in style for dive watches, and also very effective. The case is barrel-shaped with generously beveled flanks, and the dial is highly legible thanks to its gilded accents. What’s more, the Prospex 1968 Diver’s Recreation offers the appreciable added benefit of a very reasonable price tag.

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Focus

SINGER REIMAGINED

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Track 1 Hong Kong Edition CASE : matt black ceramized aluminum, grade 5 titanium

crown and pushers, sapphire back, water-resistant to 100m DIAMETER : 43mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Singer Caliber 6163, 60h power reserve), column wheel, 477 components FUNCTIONS : peripheral hours and minutes on two disks, central 3x60h chronograph (60 hrs, 60 mins, 60 secs) DIAL : with rotating disks and flange BRACELET : canvas with brushed grade 5 titanium screw-down rivets and stainless steel folding clasp, or personalized

The Track knows a trick or two

A finalist in the 2017 GHPG with its first model, winner this fall of the SIAR 2018 watch show and the GPHG (see p. 110) in the Chronograph category with this third version, the youthful watch brand inspired by the 1960s and 70s has put itself firmly on the watch map while venturing off the beaten track. On both sides, the Track 1 shifts track and swaps classic read-off for a reimagined construction reflected in the brand name. Designed by the ingenious Agenhor developers, the winding rotor has been placed on the dial side, so as to provide an optimal caseback view of the 477 splendidly decorated components. The dial itself provides 60-hour (!) central chronograph indications, while two external rotating rings indicate the hours and minutes, adjusted by a titanium crown at 4 o’clock, and shown by the 6 o’clock marker. Even the case is out of the ordinary, made from ceramized aluminum endowing it with lightness, robustness and an incomparable shade of black. Automobile fans will note aesthetic nods to the bodywork of vintage cars. Right on track for wrist candy like no other.

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Focus

ROGER DUBUIS

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Excalibur Huracàn Performante CASE : skeletonized titanium, sapphire caseback, titanium

crown with rubber yellow ring, water-resistant to 50m DIAMETER : 45mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Caliber RD630, 60h power reserve), skeletonized, 233 parts FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : skeletonized, black PVD-coated gold hands, luminescent hour-markers STRAP : black rubber, gray alcantara lining and yellow topstitching, Pirelli P Zero Trofeo symbol, tintaium folding clasp

When superlatives meet

and mingle Certain announcements leave their own tire marks on tarmac, including some that outlast the implacable onward rush of time. Two years after the start of its partnership with Pirelli based on performance, further reinforced by another with Lamborghini last year, Roger Dubuis takes its place at the wheel of the Lamborghini Squadra Corse, the motorsport department of the brand specializing in speed machines for millionaires. This cooperation is notably embodied in the launch of the Excalibur Huracàn Performante, whose aesthetic codes are strongly inspired by the eponymous Lamborghini. The engineers of the racing stable and the watchmakers of the Geneva-based Manufacture have joined in creating a watch symbolizing strength and all that is exceptional, starting with its bridges evoking the shape of a V10 engine, its hexagonal nods reflecting the geometry of the supercar, as well as its brand-new caliber featuring a balance wheel inclined at a 12° angle. This titanium limited series with its strong personality also flaunts its status as the only all-skeletonized timepiece currently available. Ramp up your wrist power.

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Le Richemond Geneva

DISCOVER A LAKESIDE ESCAPE A BREATH OF SWISS FRESH AIR AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF THE ALPS BREATHTAKING VIEWS ON THE JET D’EAU AND THE MONT BLANC FRENCH SEASONAL CUISINE AT LE JARDIN RESTAURANT LE SPA BY SISLEY & FITNESS CELEBRATION OF MEMORABLE EVENTS

Jardin Brunswick | 1201 Geneva | Switzerland lerichemond.com

#MYRichemond

Test Bench CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

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Zenith Defy Zero G

T

he object of this test bench incorporates the latest advances in Zenith’s research as part of its quest for chronometry. The track explored in recent years by the

brand’s technical department is a head-on response to one of the factors disrupting the movement of watches : gravity. The nature of the problem became apparent from the very beginning of Huygens’ work on the balance-spring and isochronism. In the 17th century, “marine” watchmakers took account of this by affixing their chronometers to gyroscopes in order to maintain them in a constant horizontal position whatever the state of the seas. With the advent of the pocket watch between the 17th and 18th centuries, this solution could not be adapted for obvious reasons of size. It was then that Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon which mixes the vertical positions so as to derive an average rate. By successfully placing the escapement and balance-spring assembly on a gyroscopic system, Zenith addresses the source of the problem, and does so in a clearly successful manner as revealed by our tests.

EXTERIOR : One might be tempted to say that the question of the exterior is secondary, given connoisseurs’ naturally strong interest in the mechanical characteristics of this watch. The overall aesthetic is based on a design evoking that of restyled 1970s icons. The continuity of the case and movement architecture asserts itself naturally by radiating from the gyroscope. Our version was entirely crafted from titanium, and whether it comes to aesthetics, comfort or ergonomics, the Defy Zero G is remarkable in terms of the efforts that have been made to reduce the volume of the gyroscope. This drastic trimming down means the movement can be housed in a case measuring 44mm in diameter and 14.8mm thick, corresponding to a very reasonably sized chronograph. 

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MOVEMENT : El Primero. A name, a legend that already reveals the eagerly awaited technical characteristics of this new caliber. The new interpretation is hand-wound, doubtless so as to minimize the thickness of the watch. It features slightly offset hours and minutes displays, alongside a power-reserve indicator and small seconds. This caliber is of course named after the illustrious family of Zenith movements oscillating at the (high) frequency of 36,600 vibrations per hour. Successfully fitting all this inside a further miniaturized gyroscope represents a major feat in itself.

This downscaling not only enhances the ergonomics of the watch, but above all optimizes its chronometry (precision timing). This 8812S caliber is endowed with a 50-hour power reserve, a real performance given the complexity of the transmission. This autonomy proves all the more adequate given the constancy of the chronometry throughout the entire period. Even two full columns would prove insufficient to extol the intelligence of the gyroscopic system and the enchanting sight of its work in compensating for wrist movements. No less than 139 of the 324 movement components are indeed dedicated to the gyroscopic cage. A marvelous demonstration of mechanical ingenuity placed in the service of chronometry. Its spartan, industrial-style decoration is justified by the incisive design of the watch and by its very reasonable price positioning.

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TESTS : No table is required to illustrate the results of our measurements, since the magic of the gyroscope maintains the balance-wheel in a consistently horizontal position. We thus carried out one measurement at full wind and another after 24 hours in operation. To conduct even more sophisticated testing, we would love to have been able to measure rates directly on the wrist or on a wear simulator, which we unfortunately did not have available. The inertia of the gyroscopic cage can cause variations that are difficult to evaluate without such equipment.

In order to see if frictions of the gyroscope could cause differences in amplitude or even rate, we first measured the six positions. The system proved to be optimal in this respect and the differences were so minimal that we finally opted to leave the watch in the vertical 6 o’clock position only, so as not to leave the gyroscope on the plane of the movement and thus place it in the least favorable theoretical situation.

At full wind, the amplitude was 292° for a rate variation of +3sec/day. After 24 hours the amplitude measured was 260° for a rate variation of +4sec/day.

The goal thus seems in any case to be perfectly met under static measurement conditions.

The path chosen by Zenith to improve mechanical chronometry is remarkable and definitely impresses the writer of this column.

This mechanism offers a solution that strikes at the very root of the problem, whereas other previous mechanisms known for compensating for the effects of gravity tend to deal with issues that are already manifested rather than addressing the cause of the problem. On the one hand, the race to achieve extremely high CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ Horloger | Watchmaker

mechanical frequencies seems to be confined to a few tentative prototypes not very likely to translate into series-produced models. The 5Hz limit thus seems to persist as the standard value and no other brand can claim to control it better than Zenith and its El Primero calibers, which have been setting the pace for chronometry since 1969 !

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Story

Photos : ©Christian Pfahl

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Birth of the WATCH WEEK Geneva Geneva Watch Tour to play a starring role

A

t the helm of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, Fabienne Lupo had for several years had a plan in mind for an international watch week intended for the ge-

neral public. With the active support of the City and Canton of Geneva and the involvement of several institutional and private stakeholders in the sector, residents and visitors to Geneva will be able to discover the world of watchmaking during this themed week from May 7th to 11th 2019.

Consolidating Geneva’s stature as a “watchmaking destination” is a key motivation behind this unifying project, along with encouraging vocations among young people and enhancing the city’s cultural and historical heritage. This philosophy is entirely in line with that of the Geneva Watch Tour, launched in 2012 by our publishing house and since then taken over by Geneva Tourism. Its route notably includes several emblematic locations integrated within the official program of the WATCH WEEK Geneva, such as the Quai du Général Guisan and the Rue du Rhône, the Musée d’art et d’histoire, the HEAD, the Watchmaking School and the Patek Philippe Museum. During this period, Geneva also hosts major watch auctions.

Workshops, talks, an exhibition, open days and visits will be organized during this watch week in which GMT Publishing will be actively involved, via the Geneva Watch Tour, as well as the Watch Photo Awards exhibition, the inauguration of the Fine Watch Club gallery, not to mention the intensive editorial comUlysse Nardin FREAK VISION

mitment of GMT and WorldTempus.com.

Strategy BRICE LECHEVALIER

Belinda Chen General Manager of JD Watch

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JD Watch made its official introduction to the watch industry a year ago as main sponsor of the GMT cocktail during the SIHH ;

and activities and sales of more functional and smart watches,

what have the major steps been since then ?

including new models from TAG Heuer.

We continuously partner with more new brands, with Oris and

We are beginning to see that women increasingly want to feel

Carl F. Bucherer having recently opened flagship stores on JD.

empowered by their watches, to look more professional. Chinese

Brands always rely on us because of our commitment to product

watch buyers are also very experiential ; they like it when their

authenticity and protecting their brand images. In October, we

purchases come packaged with additional flair, such as in special

signed a strategic partnership with international watch retailer

gift boxes or with a bonus, delivered by our white glove deliv-

Xinyu Group, aiming to provide better integrated shopping expe-

ery service, JD Luxury Express. There has been a trend for middle

riences designed for our over 300 million customers. We have

and upper middle-class consumers to buy luxury products within

also strengthened our cooperation with our existing partners.

China, rather than abroad, as JD’s new luxury online experiences

This year in Basel, TAG Heuer launched its Explore the Moon spe-

offer competitive – and in some ways, better – service.

cial edition on JD.com, in cooperation with the China National Space Administration. A year into its successful partnership with

How important is the technology to assist JD Watch ?

JD, Chopard’s exclusive concept store, whose launch last August

Just as with all JD departments, technology is at the core of what

marked the brand’s e-commerce debut in China, has now become

we do. Our proprietary technology and in-house smart logistics

an official flagship store. We will continue to leverage our

network allow brands to better anticipate sales, and enable us to

resources in e-commerce, marketing and logistics to help brands

delivery watches on the same or next day, with luxury packaging

build greater awareness in China. We have expanded our pres-

and delivery. We already use AR/VR (Editor’s note : augmented

ence in Europe, including an office in Paris, through which we

reality/virtual reality) in our business, especially for fashion, and

are deepening our partnerships with brands and working with

we see opportunities to apply it to watches. We already have an

them on their China strategy.

AR Glasses Try-on feature, for example, which lets shoppers virtually try glasses on to see if they suit their faces. Earlier this year,

Have you seen an evolution of the demand in 2018 ?

we launched a new AR/VR makeup feature named AR Styling Sta-

Younger customers are fast becoming watch users, which has a

tion, with over 100 brands on its platform. It allows consumers

huge impact on the industry. At the same time, they are leading

to virtually “try on” products including lipstick, blush, colored

more active lifestyles, which has led to a surge of leisure sports

contact lenses and eyebrow pencils.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 99

Portfolio H. MOSER & CIE.

O

n the cutting edge of contemporary elegance and full-fledged Manufacture-style expertise, H. Moser & Cie. is also the first brand that Bucherer is presenting in its Blue Editions without the

famous blue visible on the dial side (see article on p. 44). This approach is in line with its philosophy of time read-off focusing on understatement, originality and aesthetic creativity.

H. MOSER & CIE.

ENDEAVOUR PERPETUAL MOON VANTABLACK®

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Craftmanship MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON

REFERENCE 992/124G named

The Galleon is a one-of-akind pocket watch that took 230 hours to engrave.

Patek Philippe

Engraving, a master touch Creativity, patience and exemplary precision are the main qualities of artisan-style engraving, a delicate art cultivated in the Patek Philippe workshops.

T

he engraving artisan’s bench features a range of tools neatly lined up within easy reach : chisels, scribers, graining tools, round punches, gouges, flat, half-flat or

round gravers. However, the engraver’s first tool is not the kind that immediately comes to mind, but instead one that we all use on a daily basis : a pencil ! Before shaping matter and bringing it to life through a raised area, a curve, an angle or a domed surface, the engraver’s work starts with a sketch. It is on the basis of an extremely accurate reproduction of the motif, the painting or the desired letters that the artisan then hollows out the metal, pushing it back and gently chiseling it using various techniques mastered in the Patek Philippe workshops. 

110 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

The main difficulty lies in hollowing the metal to a substantial depth on a limited thickness. In the case of The Galleon, the deepest zones are about 0.3/0.4 tenths of a millimeter deep.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 111

While the engraver’s first tool is a pencil, the hand then uses a graver to cut into the metal.

On the front side of the case of THE GALLEON watch, the engraved leaf-shaped hands sweep over an enameled white dial.

The

Patek

Philippe

engraving

arti-

san lavished around 230 hours of work on adorning the gold caseback of the oneof-a-kind pocket wach named “The Galleon”.

To reproduce in bas-relief the drape of the sails, the

Little by little, the motif emerges from the background with infinite finesse, revealed in the minutest detail, including some that deserve to be examined under a magnifying glass.

Volumes, perspectives, plays on light and material –

finesse of the ropes, the movement of the swell, the windows and

whether soft, rough, shiny or matt – stand out from the case.

the cannons arranged in orderly fashion along on the majestic

Accentuated in certain places by oxidation with black rhodium,

hull of the galleon or the flight of the birds, the craftsman has

shadows appear and reliefs are defined. Therein lies the unique

endeavored to hollow the material by tracing lines, curves, fur-

talent and deftness of the finest artisans : using brilliantly-mas-

rows of variable depths. He pushes back the gold with one hand

tered skills to give life to such detailed and complex motifs as this

and holds it back with the other, in a subtle balance that can only

galleon sailing across the waves. A rare ornamental technique for

be properly judged and achieved through substantial experience.

an exclusive one-of-a-kind creation.

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Jet-Set BRICE LECHEVALIER

1 INFINITE EIGHT

Why not savor an exceptional champagne to mark special moments ? Like the best watchmakers, the creators of Champagne Infinite Eight base their philosophy on tradition and innovation, selecting only the best vintages for their production. When the bottle is at tasting temperature, the thermo-reactive infinity sign on the label changes from gray to red. Long live good cheer !

2 CHEDI ANDERMATT

1

2

3

4

3 LA MYSTÉRIEUSE

4 A CHALET IN GENEVA

While the Cannes red carpet – along which the world’s most beautiful women often glide wearing Avakian jewelry – is a long way off, festive evenings in Gstaad and St. Moritz are in full swing and deserve a touch of genset elegance.

Avakian’s La Mystérieuse collection certainly appears perfectly suited for this mission, with its delicate pearls evoking a tiny snowball.

Throughout the winter, the Grand Hotel Kempinski Geneva surprises its guests with a chic “Little Forest” concept on its patio, featuring a roaring bear by Richard Orlinski, among other artworks in town for the season. A curling rink for young and old, along with champagne and black truffle fondue, enliven the experience and enhance the sense of escapism it procures.

With eight different types of deluxe rooms and suites, seven splendid restaurants representing the most varied culinary horizons, a magnificent spa with a wellness center and swimming pool, along with peak service, it is no wonder that the 5-star Chedi Andermatt won more than fifteen international awards and prizes in 2018.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 113

Jet-Set FADI JAMIL

Discover the Middle East

aboard Celebrity Constellation, Cruising the United Arab Emirates and Arabian Sea

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MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 115

D

ubai, UAE – 03 February 2019 – Retreat to the most peaceful spots in the Arabian Sea with Celebrity Constellation’s new additions of luxury accommodation, private lounges and in-room dining service. Setting sail this March

from Abu Dhabi; the luxury cruise liner invites passengers to indulge in the mesmerising history of the Middle East and India over a 14-night cruise.

Celebrity Constellation is renovated and now has more staterooms and dining restaurants to cater to the most discerning travellers. Guests can also relax and dine in the comfort of their stateroom with a complimentary 24-hour instateroom dining. A cosy and artsy Rooftop Terrace awaits with its soundscape and movie screen, where passengers can kick back and catch a flick under the stars with theme drinks and snacks; it’s the trendiest hot spot at sea.

Passengers can cruise to Abu Dhabi and Dubai and discover breath-taking cities nestled between the turquoise waters of the Arabian Gulf and rolling desert sand dunes. Unravel the stunning contrast of riding camels across the desert landscape then go shopping in the luxurious boutiques along the city’s palm-lined boulevards. Cruises to Dubai have something for everyone: desert safaris, sun bathing by the emerald blue sea, restaurants featuring culinary flavours from around the world, luxury hotels and traditional Arabian flair. A buzzing gastronomic hub, there is no better place to taste the fusion of Middle Eastern and Asian flavours of Middle Eastern cuisine while ashore.

While at sea, passengers are invited to indulge their mind, body and spirit in the state-of-the-art fitness facilities with soaring floor-to-ceiling windows. There are no better views to continue your land-based health and fitness routine while on holiday. The profound pleasures of the spectacular Canyon Ranch spa, complete with luxurious services and enlightening treatments are designed to restore your serenity and leave you feeling fantastic.

Celebrity Constellation will cruise for four days in the United Arab Emirates and Oman before taking to the wider Arabian Sea and visiting Cochin, New Mangalore, Goa, Mumbai, and finally returning to its exciting home in Abu Dhabi. The Arabian Sea and India Cruise aboard Celebrity Constellation is 14 nights, departing on 4 May and will start from USD 899 per person.

For additional information or reservations visit www.royalcaribbean.ae or send an email to book@rccl.ae or call +971 4 331 4299.

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Photoshoot CYRUS

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Zoom BRICE LECHEVALIER

Changing times for the CITÉ DU TEMPS Occupied until late 2018 by the Swatch Group who named it thus, the iconic building on the Pont de la Machine will welcome a new pair of tenants as of summer 2019, after a few months of transformations : the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (with its 42 partner brands); and the Michelangelo Foundation for Creativity and Craftsmanship (which notably organized the first biennial exhibition dedicated to craftsmanship, Homo Faber). Together, they intend to continue spreading Geneva’s reputation far and wide.

A city of arts FOR CHANEL Chanel has chosen a 25,000 sqm site to the north-east of Paris for its new seven-floor building dedicated to specialty workshops for artistic crafts and designed by architect Rudy Ricciotti (winner of the Grand Prix National d’Architecture, whose list of accomplishments to date notably features several museums including the Mucem).

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GEORGE CLOONEY

on Omega’s home ground

For his visit to all five floors of the Omega high-tech manufacturing facility, Hollywood star George Clooney was accompanied by no less than company CEO Raynald Aeschlimann, and Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek.

On this occasion, Clooney preferred the watch of the Apollo capsule to the other famous capsules with which he is associated.

BUCHERER

lives up to its reputation Restored to its stature as one of the finest buildings on the Rue du Rhône, after three years of work (the time required for its original construction in the 1830s !), Bucherer’s Geneva boutique provides a first-rate welcome to customers in three-story premises respectively dedicated to watchmaking, jewelry, and workshops/after-sales service.

CYRUS takes Macao A major first for the small Fine Watchmaking brand from Le Locle, which has opened its first monobrand flagship store in the Venetian Casino complex, Macao. Cyrus CEO Walter Ribaga attended the inauguration in the company of master watchmaker Jean-François Mojon (a GPHG laureate), along with the brand’s Swiss owners.

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Zoom BRICE LECHEVALIER

Free immersion world record with

DELMA

FAVRE-LEUBA

dives behind the camera

The new Raider Deep Blue by Favre-Leuba appeals to divers, both men

The Delma Blue Shark collection was chosen by the Macadamia Produc-

and women, as illustrated here with brand ambassador Sayuri Kinoshita

tion diving team which is filming season 4 of Naufragios, a TV series on

who holds the free immersion world record.

the underwater world and ocean protection.

Back to roots for EBERHARD & CO. In a move representing a strong and highly symbolic sign of confidence, Eberhard & Co. returned in November to its birthplace, the Maison de l’Aigle in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Georges-Lucien Eberhard commissioned this historical building, on which the majestic eagle with its outstretched wings is being restored by the current brand owners.

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Zoom Rebellion BRICE LECHEVALIER

The Dakar Rally in REBELLION MODE For its 41st edition, the legendary Dakar Rally is to be held in Peru in January 2019 and has entrusted the role of official timekeeper to Rebellion Timepieces, which is presenting a dedicated watch : the Twenty-One Dakar. Its strong personality conceals an impressive asset : its extremely affordable price which means it is set to become a bestseller in the Rebellion collection. Around 500 participants are preparing to take on the 9,000km of dunes and off-road driving in seven stages. The 24 Hours of Le Mans are no longer enough for Rebellion, which is enhancing its track record with one of the world’s top three toughest car races.

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Zoom Breguet BRICE LECHEVALIER

EMMANUEL BREGUET & NAKIS KARAPATIS (Vice-President Head of Operations Breguet)

BREGUET

Breguet at the Swiss National Museum To mark the November 6th arrival in Swiss boutiques of its new Marine collection, Breguet invited the Swiss press to immerse itself in the history of the Château de Prangins, housing the Western Switzerland collection of the Swiss National Musuem. Guests were fascinated by the talk given by Emmanuel Breguet, a descendant of the brand founder.

During the first part of the 19th century, the castle belonged to Joseph Bonaparte, the elder brother of Napoleon. In 1798, as part of the latter’s preparations for this Egyptian campaign, he acquired the first travel clock created by Breguet. With this in mind, the master watchmaker had replaced the traditional pendulum-rod balance by the famous sprung balance. Breguet’s quest for simplicity also extended to his aesthetic approach, and his neoclassical minimalism influenced the entire profession. Donated to the museum by patrons, the Breguet travel clock is now part of the Château de Prangin’s permanent collection.

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Zoom FADI JAMIL

OMEGA

10 YEARS OF GOLF IN DUBAI Following four days of enthralling golf, the “Major of the Middle East” has concluded in Dubai. This is the 10th year that OMEGA has been the title sponsor the Dubai Desert Classic and the brand has once again enjoyed watching the talented golfers compete on the renowned Majlis Course at the Emirates Golf Club.

The OMEGA Dubai Desert Classic has been a part of the European Tour since its inception in 1989. It was, in fact, the Tour’s first tournament to be played in the Middle East, and has included past champions such as Tiger Woods, Seve Ballesteros and Fred Couples, as well as OMEGA ambassadors Sergio Garcia and Rory McIlroy.

The ‘Dallah’ trophy, meaning coffee pot in Arabic, is a symbol of the tournament and the ultimate prize for winners. Of course, they first have to get through the challenging Majlis Course, built into the beautiful dunes of the area and surrounded by many indigenous species of flora and fauna.

As well as earning a trophy, this year’s winner took home a brand new OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Master Chronometer - crafted in 18K Sedna™ gold with a brown sun-brushed dial.

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Zoom FADI JAMIL

LONGINES

INAUGURATES ITS FIRST BOUTIQUE IN KUWAIT IN PRESENCE OF AISHWARYA RAI BACHCHAN JANUARY 24, 2019 - Longines had the pleasure of inaugurating its new Kuwait boutique located in the renowned “The Avenues” mall. To celebrate this unique event, Longines Ambassador of Elegance Aishwarya Rai Bachchan honored us with her presence to cut the ribbon with Mr. Charles Villoz, Longines Vice President, Mr. Patrick Aoun, Longines Brand Manager Middle East and Mr. Ali Morad Behbehani, Behbehani Group President.

Considered by many as one of the world’s most beautiful women, the Bollywood superstar Aishwarya Rai Bachchan has embodied Longines’

Besides, Behbehani Group President Ali Behbehani, declared: “Longines

slogan “Elegance is an Attitude” for 20 years. As in all times, she brought

is highly appreciated in the Kuwaiti market marking the importance of

glamour and sophistication to this opening during which she was

opening up its very own boutique at The Avenues”. He added “We strive

wearing a timepiece from the Longines Master Collection Blue Edition,

to offer our customers the best shopping experience in Kuwait”.

featuring a sunray blue dial with diamonds indexes.

The new boutique is a contemporary interpretation of Longines’ tradi-

On this occasion, Longines Vice President Charles Villoz said: ”We are

tional values and illustrates the brand’s innate ability to match elegance

really proud to have opened our first boutique in Kuwait in this extraor-

and innovation. Its crystal-clear facade provides an unobstructed view

dinary venue. We are delighted to provide our customers with the

and illuminates the entire space. A dedicated corner will allow cus-

opportunity to discover our various collections in an elegant environ-

tomers to discover The Longines Equestrian Collection illustrating the

ment reflecting Longines’ traditional values”

brand’s longstanding commitment to equestrian world.

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HUBLOT

AMBASSADOR DUSTIN JOHNSON WINS FIRST SAUDI INTERNATIONAL Hublot Ambassador Dustin Johnson, otherwise known as “DJ”, took home the first Saudi International on February 3 by two strokes! The explosive athlete whose steely determination, talent and resolve have propelled him to the highest standing among golfers, is considered the most gifted and athletic player on the circuit, thanks to his ultra-powerful, precise drives and superb skills on the putting green.

When Hublot and DJ announced their partnership almost two years ago, the golfer had shared: “I am honored to join the distinguished list of Hublot Ambassadors, especially since I have always been such an admirer of their timepieces.

Each one is so unique, unlike many of the other luxury brands, which I appreciate and enjoy. I am very excited about the partnership and hope to hoist a few trophies with a Hublot on my wrist.” And that he did. Time and again, along with his latest win in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.

Speaking about the tournament, Johnson told Hublot: “I’m honored to win the very first Saudi International. I played very well all week, and really enjoyed the experience of playing in Saudi Arabia. This is my first win of the year and on the European Tour, so I’m glad it happened here with such a strong field.”

Dustin Johnson has won five World Golf Championships among numerous other victories, and as CEO of Hublot Ricardo Guadalupe said about him, “he also reminds us that each shot on the golf course is crucial; we need to constantly excel ourselves and start over.”

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