Interview Thierry Esslinger CEO Breguet
Focus Cyrus Klepcys Tourbillon Vertical Technique Tougher than tough
Bvlgari
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic 4th world record GMT ME No 13 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2018
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9 771660 110613
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Editorial Summer 2018
Dear GMT Middle East readers,
SUMMER IS HERE AND SO IS THE HEAT!! Some of us will escape to a cooler climate for
holidays, while others will stay and enjoy the many activities organized throughout the region for both day and night-time pleasure. Wherever you are, there is a watch to accompany you, for swimming, diving, driving, racing, flying, or simply telling the time. In all shapes, colours, and sizes, including the thinnest watches in the world from the Bulgari Octo Finissimo collection, as seen with the Tourbillon Automatic model featured on our front cover. Timing was of the essence at the 2018 Monaco Grand Prix where we were invited to spend the last week-end of May with TAG Heuer to watch the race and have a look behind the scenes. Every driver dreams of winning the Formula One motor race in Monaco, and this year it was won by Daniel Ricciardo racing for Red Bull, ahead of Sebastian Vettel with Ferrari and Lewis Hamilton for Mercedes who shared the podium with second and third positions. TAG Heuer returned to the Principality where it has been Official Watch since 2011. The legendary watch brand is also sponsor for the Red Bull Racing Formula One team, and Team Principal Chris Horner was happy to share his thoughts with us just before the race. You can read all about it inside this issue. Until next issue, FADI JAMIL Publisher Editor-in-Chief
Interview
GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM
Thierry Esslinger CEO Breguet
Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com Head of Creative / Graphic Designer: KYLE EVIDENTE | creative@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com Focus Cyrus Klepcys Tourbillon Vertical Technique Tougher than tough
Bvlgari
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic 4th world record GMT ME No 13 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2018
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9 771660 110613
GMT ME MAGAZINE NO13 2018
30
GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
© Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.
We assemble every single watch twice. Because perfection takes time.
For us, perfection is a matter of principle. This is why, on principle, we
parts are cleaned and decorated by hand with finishing and polishing
craft all timepieces with the same care and assemble each watch twice.
techniques, followed by the final assembly procedure. This assures
Thus, after the Datograph Up/Down has been assembled for the first
long-term functional integrity and the immaculacy of all artisanal fin-
time and precisely adjusted, it is taken apart again. The movement
ishes. Even if this takes a little more time. www.alange-soehne.com
You are cordially invited to discover the collection at:
A. LANGE & SÖHNE BOUTIQUE DUBAI The Dubai Mall · Tel. +971 4 325 39 23 · dubai@lange-soehne.ae
ME_ARE_C_TheDubaiMall_GMT_DatoUD_WG_230x295_ATMO-067-18.indd 1
04.05.18 15:28
Contents Summer 2018
HOT NEWS p.46
DESIGN p.71
INTERVIEW p.76
COVER STORY p.62
Editorial 30 Contents 32-34 Contributors 36 Business News Hot News
38 42-60
Cover Story Bvlgari: The Octo Finissimo UFO 62-63 Editor’s Pick
64-68
Design Rules of Engagement
70-75
Interview Thierry Esslinger | CEO Breguet
32
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
76-78
Contents Summer 2018
FOCUS p.80
FOCUS p.82 ATMOSPHERE p.116
ZOOM p.126
TEST BENCH p.97
Focus
80-95
Test Bench Patek Philippe: Calatrava Pilot Travel time Ref. 5524 96-99 Technique Tougher than tough 100-103 GMT Time Eberhard & Co. 130 years of history: The legend of the “campionissimo” 104-107 Portfolio
108-113
Atmosphere Bovet,The cradle in a castle 116-117 Jet-Set 118-119 Zoom 120-127
34
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
arraw CHRONOGRAPH 45MM GOLD BLUE
Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons Dubai Mall, Mall of the Emirates, Mirdif City Center, Wafi Al Manara International Jewellery Marina Mall, The Galleria Sowwah, Yas Mall
rjwatches.com RJXJUSTRAW
Contributors By Brice Lechevalier
Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.
36
Paul O’Neil
Michèle Brunner
David Chokron
Marie De Pimodan
The editor-in-chief of WorldTempus. com shares his insights on our feature articles based on his website’s coverage of the subject.
Publishing Manager at WorldTempus.com and an experienced writer, she looks at brand events and products.
An expert watch journalist and regular WorldTempus.com correspondent, he provides content for our Technical column.
An expert watch journalist who presents new models as well as handling the Architecture column.
Christophe Persoz
Cloé Mugny
Edouard Haegi
This experienced watchmaker analyzes a watch that he wears for an entire week and delivers his technical and aesthetic verdict.
An intern in the publishing department and a translator, she is also penning her first articles.
Edouard Haegi is our inhouse photographer/videomaker, who also handles the Watch Photo Awards.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Business news By Brice Lechevalier
Catherine Rénier
Thierry Esslinger
Thierry Esslinger was appointed CEO of Breguet in September 2017 and officially took up his position before Baselworld 2018 (see his interview on page 30). He had previously handled various projects for the brand as well as serving for years as a consultant for other Swatch Group brands. He had spent his entire career to date with the Hayek Engineering company of which he is a board member.
Jean-Marc Pontroué
Jean-Marc Pontroué is taking the helm of Panerai this summer as CEO, a position he had occupied at Roger Dubuis since 2011, after ten years at the head of Montblanc’s watchmaking division. This keen marathon runner began his career in the leather goods industry, before joining the LVMH group in 1995 as Sales Manager for Givenchy.
38
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Geoffroy Lefebvre
Geoffroy Lefebvre is the new CEO of Baume & Mercier since June 1st 2018. After ten years as a strategy, operations and technology consultant for McKinsey, he joined the Richemont group in 2011 to take charge of the group’s industrial strategy, and subsequently of operational management at Vacheron Constantin and Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Catherine Rénier was appointed CEO at JaegerLeCoultre in May 2018, having started with the Richemont group 19 years previously as Retail Development Director for Cartier USA. After joining Van Cleef & Arpels in 2003 as Deputy International Deputy Marketing Director, she continued her career in Hong Kong and Macau from 2008 onwards, climbing to the rank of Managing Director for the brand in the region.
Alain Zimmermann
Alain Zimmermann has been appointed Director of brand e-distribution strategy for the Richemont watch brands. He began his career at L’Oréal in 1989, before working in sales and marketing for Richemont as of 1995. After a three-year stint at the Julius Baer private bank, he took up the position of CEO at Baume & Mercier, where he was one of the first to take an interest in digital issues.
TOURBILLON CHRONOMETER NO.36 ROYAL COLLECTION
Swiss Craftsmanship
www.arnoldandson.com
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
The Timekeeping starts now!
42
PRECISELY 120 DAYS OUT from the opening of the Youth Olympic
Buenos Aires, we pride ourselves on doing things well and I can
Games Buenos Aires 2018, Official Timekeeper OMEGA starts the
tell you that these young athletes will have a fantastic time here
countdown clock ticking at a special ceremony in Argentina’s
and will feel right at home”.
vibrant capital.
Guests were then treated to a spirited performance from
The grand opening of the third summer edition of the Youth
Argentinian dance and drum group Malevo before the unveiling
Olympic Games is still four months away, but OMEGA has already
of the OMEGA countdown clock, the design of which draws its
begun measuring the moments. The Official Timekeeper’s
inspiration from Floralis Generica, a beautiful metallic sculpture
countdown clock at Plaza de la Republica, was unveiled at a
loved by the people of Buenos Aires.
special ceremony on the 7th of June 2018.
After the official unveiling of the countdown clock, CEO of
The unveiling was attended by Felipe Miguel, Chief of Cabinet
OMEGA Timing, Mr Alain Zobrist, presented the official guests
of Ministers of the Government of the City of Buenos Aires; and
with OMEGA last-lap bells. The bells, made by hand in La Chaux-
Mr Gerardo Werthein: IOC member, President of the Argentine
de-Fonds in the Swiss mountains, are used to signal the last lap
Olympic Committee, and President of the Organizing Committee
in track events. Still in use alongside OMEGA’s state-of-the art
of the Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018.
timekeeping equipment, they represent a tradition unchanged
After a warm welcome from OMEGA representative Gregoire
for centuries.
Sierro, Mr Gerardo Werthein took to the stage to speak of the
OMEGA has served as Official Timekeeper at every Youth Olympic
importance of the event and the vital role OMEGA plays in its
Games - both summer and winter - since 2010, and will return
success. “In 120 days, the world will witness a fantastic sports
to the role yet again in 2020, when the Winter Youth Olympic
celebration, which will showcase the power of youth and
Games takes place on the brand’s home turf, in Lausanne
the Olympic spirit. We are very grateful to Omega; a long-
Switzerland.
time worldwide Olympic Games partner and an exceptional
Following the Summer Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires,
timekeeper. We’d like to thank them for supporting us on this
OMEGA’s timekeepers will head straight to Japan to prepare
journey. The Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018 will be a
for the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020. This will be the 29th time
fantastic competition. Omega will play a key role in helping us
OMEGA has taken on the challenge since 1932 - and there’s no
deliver this exceptional experience”.
slowing down in the future. In a 2017 press conference it was
Thrilled that the upcoming event will take place in Buenos Aires,
revealed that OMEGA has been entrusted with this vital role
Mr Felipe Miguel expressed pride in the capital city’s “open,
until 2032, which will mark OMEGA’s 100th year as Official
passionate and welcoming spirit” and went on to say that: “In
Timekeeper at the Olympic Games.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
NEW MINIJET COLLECTION POWERFUL. FUN. EXCEPTIONAL.
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Hot News By Fadi Jamil
From Monaco to the 24 Hours of Le Mans PATRICK DEMPSEY VISITED THE MONACO TOP CARS COLLECTION IN THE COMPANY OF THE PRINCELY FAMILY, BEFORE HITTING THE ROAD WITH TAG HEUER TOWARDS THE VAR TRACK IN LE LUC
44
MONACO, 13 JUNE, 2018: TODAY, a few days before the start of the
and restored by TAG Heuer as part of its partnership with the
highly anticipated 24 Hours of Le Mans, TAG Heuer welcomed
Collection. Return to a historic saga.
brand ambassador Patrick Dempsey to Monaco for an unusual
In 1902, Prince Albert I, nicknamed the ‘Explorer Prince’, decided
training session. The actor, who’s also a driver and owner of the
to cross France on his English-made motorcycle, a Humber. After
Dempsey Racing team– who are due to participate in the 24 Hours
leaving Monaco, he would journey to Paris, and then Deauville,
of Le Mans this weekend – travelled to the Var track in Le Luc in
taking a different route each year. One of his journeys took
a viper green Porsche 911 RS from the private car collection of
him through Le Luc, among other destinations. From 1904, he
HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco, for whom TAG Heuer has been
decided to record his journeys on a large map of France, called
appointed Official Watchmaker.
the Prince’s Map.
The evening before his departure, Patrick Dempsey had been
Today, the Humber motorcycle– since restored by Philippe Renzini,
joined by distinguished guests for a cocktail party amidst this
Director of the Monaco Top Cars Collection– and the Prince’s Map
collection of rare cars: Jack Heuer, Honorary President of the
are on display at the Collection. TAG Heuer, as the Collection’s
brand and great-grandson of Heuer’s founder; Aurel Bacs, luxury
Official Watchmaker, decided to restore this legendary map and
watch expert; Sanjay Hinduja of Gulf Oil International; Roald
take to the road like the Prince, from Monaco to the Var track in Le
Goethe, owner of ROFGO Racing; and car world influencer
Luc, with Patrick Dempsey and a few special guests.
Supercarblondie. They were also joined by special guests H.S.H
Once there, the group had the opportunity to drive some truly
Princess Stéphanie of Monaco and her children, Pauline and
unique racing cars and complete a few laps in them. A Porsche
Louis Ducruet, and Camille Gottlieb, descendants of Prince
911 GT3 RS, a classic Porsche 964, a Porsche Panamera GT3, two
Albert I. A beautiful family portrait that brought together several
Porsche GT3 RS Cup and a replica of the Ford GT40, used by the
generations ahead of an intense race in Le Mans to celebrate the
Gulf Racing team to win their first victory in the 24 Hours of Le
unique ties between TAG Heuer and the Principality of Monaco,
Mans, exactly 50 years ago!
and to launch the start of a route that takes in the stunning
To celebrate this anniversary, TAG Heuer has released a special
roads of the Côte d’Azur.
limited edition of the Monaco Gulf, of which just 50 have been
This carefully planned route follows part of the journey taken by
produced. The watch, with its famous 39 mm square casing and
Prince Albert I of Monaco each year in the early 20thcentury. The
blue dial, features the iconic Gulf colours : light blue and orange.
journey was marked out in pencil by the Prince himself on a map
The back of the watch bears the Gulf’s anniversary emblem and
dating from 1904, on display at the Monaco Top Cars Collection
its serial number XX/50.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
MANUFACTURE CALIBRE ARF15 16½’’’
MIRRORED FORCE RESONANCE GUILLOCHÉ DIAL
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
IWC CEO takes the Driver’s seat In the new Social Media Campaign by Mercedes-AMG
46
DUBAI, 5TH JUNE 2018 – Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC
T H E C O - S TA R I S A N I C O N O F I WC
Schaffhausen stars in the new social media campaign by
The Ingenieur Chronograph Sport Edition «50th Anniversary
Mercedes-AMG, a long-standing partner of the Swiss luxury watch
of Mercedes-AMG» (ref. IW380902) also makes a grand
manufacturer. In a short film now available online, the CEO
appearance in the film, on the wrist of Christoph Grainger-
appears in the new Mercedes-AMG E 53 4MATIC+ Coupé, wearing
Herr. This special edition to mark the 50th anniversary of
the IngenieurChronograph Sport Edition “50th Anniversary of
Mercedes-AMG was launched last year at the Nürburgring.
Mercedes-AMG”.
The watch is driven by the IWC 89361 manufacture calibre
The #SpeedUpInStyle campaign launches the new Mercedes-
and housed in a robust titanium case. The magnetic field
AMG 53 series on digital media. The #Speed-UpInStyle campaign
protection is visible through the glass back and is inspired
launches the Mercedes-AMG 53 series, featuring IWC CEO
by the brake discs of the high-performance sports cars from
Christoph Grainger-Herr behind the wheel of the E 4MATIC+
Mercedes-AMG.
Coupé in the streets of New York City. He explains: «I am grateful
IWC
to have taken part in this dynamic campaign with our partner.
successful partnership since 2004. Their collaboration is based
The versatility, comfort, efficiency and performance of the AMG
on the vibrant tradition of technology in both companies,
sports car impressed me immensely during filming.
combined with common values such as precision engineering
The finished film perfectly encapsulates the driving force behind
and exclusive design. Both the high-performance sports cars
both Mercedes-AMG and IWC Schaffhausen: precise, world-class
from Mercedes-AMG and the mechanical watches from IWC
engineering, uncompromising performance and iconic design –
appeal to individuals with high expectations, who go their
always combined with great joy and passion, of course.»
own way in their search for something special.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Schaffhausen
and
Mercedes-AMG
have
enjoyed
a
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
Left: Semiconductor (Left: Ruth Jarman, Right: Joe Gerhardt) and Mรณnica Bello (centre). Right: HALO, the 4th Audemars Piguet Art Commission by Semiconductor, images courtesy of the artist and Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet unveils HALO during Art Basel 2018
SWISS Haute Horlogerie brand Audemars Piguet celebrated the unveiling of its 4th Art Commission, HALO, during Art Basel in Basel 2018. This year, the Audemars Piguet Art Commission was conceived and realised by British artist-duo Semiconductor, Ruth Jarman and Joe Gerhardt, in collaboration with guest curator Mรณnica Bello, head of Arts and curator at CERN, the European Laboratory for Particle Physics in Geneva. HALO, the large-scale, site-specific artwork, presents visitors with an artistic interpretation of the ATLAS experiment at CERN, and marks the first time that raw data from CERN has been utilised within an art installation.
48
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
TAG Heuer back at the 24 Hours of Le Mans
50
LE MANS, FRANCE 17TH JUNE 2018 – The 24 Hours of Le Mans
Formula 1 is TAG Heuer’s ultimate motor racing model,
is under way! One of the most prestigious races in the motor
synonymous with performance and speed. Entirely in steel
racing world got under way at 3 o’clock this afternoon. On the
and measuring 43 mm in diameter, this quartz chronograph
starting grid was the Aston Martin Racing team, which TAG
features a notched steel bezel and an aluminium ring with a
Heuer is partnering as part of its agreement with Aston Martin.
tachymeter scale. The indexes, second hand and Aston Martin’s
The
weekend,
famous winged logo all don Aston Martin Racing’s specific
accompanied by the popular motoring influencer and friend
lime essence tone, standing out against the watch’s black dial
of the brand, Supercar Blondie. Following a visit to the
to beautiful effect. The movement is accurate to a tenth of a
Gulf Racing garages and the team of the actor and brand
second – an indispensable feature in a motor racing watch –
ambassador, Patrick Dempsey, she enjoyed a tour of the Aston
and is displayed on the small counter at 6 o’clock, with the
Martin Racing team garages, accompanied by some of the
minute counter at 9 o’clock and the current seconds counter at
drivers, a few hours before the much-anticipated start of this
3 o’clock. This model comes with a magnificent black leather
intense race.
strap. In another Aston Martin exclusive, for the first time, the
To mark the occasion, and to signal its support for the team,
Swiss watchmaker has paired a leather strap with a TAG Heuer
Supercar Blondie wore the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Aston Martin,
Formula 1 model. With its “lime-essence” stitching, the strap
inspired by the world of Aston Martin Racing. The TAG Heuer
makes for an even sportier and more striking watch.
Swiss
watchmaker
is
in
attendance
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
all
COMING SOON IN THE MIDDLE EAST W W W. M A U R O N M U S Y. C O M
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
Four major announcements on the 250th anniversary of Louis Moinet’s birth LOUIS MOINET, THE INVENTOR OF THE CHRONOGRAPH, WAS BORN IN 1768. TO CELEBRATE THIS 250TH ANNIVERSARY, AND TO COINCIDE WITH THE SUMMER SOLSTICE AND ITS CONNOTATIONS OF REBIRTH, ATELIERS LOUIS MOINET ARE MAKING NO FEWER THAN FOUR ANNOUNCEMENTS AT ONCE: ABOUT TIMEPIECES MADE BY THE FIRM, ITS HERITAGE, AND FUTURE DEVELOPMENTS. MORE DETAILS ABOUT THE NEWS SUMMARISED HERE WILL BE RELEASED IN THE COMING WEEKS.
52
ULTRAVOX – LOUIS MOINET’S FIRST EVER HOUR-STRIKE
that remained an authority for close to a century.
This is an outstanding development and a considerable
The authenticity of this undertaking is underpinned by the
investment for a fully-independent firm which still produces
reconstitution of Moinet’s heritage, of which his clocks and
only two timepieces a day – its first Hour-Strike. This rare and
original copies of his Traité are some of the foremost examples.
highly technical complication here bears the name Ultravox,
At their headquarters in Saint-Blaise, Neuchâtel, Ateliers Louis
and is based on a completely new movement, developed by the
Moinet have gathered together a sizeable collection, including
illustrious watchmaker Eric Coudray. Featuring a completely new
a large number of restored, functional timepieces. Now, for
design that reveals the entire movement, the timepiece will be
the first time in its history, this completely unique heritage –
unveiled for the very first time on June 20, 2018.
the only one of its kind in the world – is being made available
LOUIS MOINET IS BACK IN BOURGES
online, free of charge and painstakingly documented. Future
On June 21, 2018, the City of Bourges, where Moinet was
acquisitions will gradually be added to this “Digital museum”.
born, will have its very own street named after the famous
Although it is not exhaustive, it is already the largest collection
watchmaker. Two things make this a particularly remarkable
of authenticated Louis Moinet objects in the world.
event. Firstly, the inauguration will be taking place precisely
A PARTNERSHIP WITH HEAD
on the 250th anniversary of Louis Moinet’s birth. Secondly,
Ateliers Louis Moinet are keen to see Louis Moinet’s legacy live
the street in question is not merely in the town of his birth,
on, as it surely deserves to; to ensure this, they have entered
but directly adjacent to where he lived in the 1820s, running
into a partnership with HEAD, the Geneva University of Art
alongside his own home. 250 years on, the house is still there,
and Design. The partnership involves a contest – with prize
and has been formally identified by a college of historians.
money of CHF 5,000 up for grabs – to get students thinking
Impasse Louis Moinet, unveiled in the presence of Bourges
about what the watch of the future might look like. The exact
City councillors, will thus be right where the inventor of the
rubric for the competition is as follows: “The traditional Swiss
chronograph was born.
watch is under threat from the digital watch. Devise a watch
THE LOUIS MOINET DIGITAL MUSEUM
embodying Swiss watchmaking values and offering a relevant
From the outset, Ateliers Louis Moinet have constantly
answer to this challenge for today’s market.” The results will
undertaken to restore the renown of the stupendous inventor
be determined by a panel made up of representatives from
Louis Moinet – painter, sculptor, watchmaker, scientist, and
HEAD and Ateliers Louis Moinet, and will be announced in
author of the legendary Traité d’Horlogerie, a work of reference
autumn 2018.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
MILITARE
Diameter 44.3 mm from 2’590 to 5’250 CHF
EPURATO
Diameter 42 mm from 2’290 to 2’990 CHF
Now having over 20 years of existence, the brand combines Swiss precision with a sport-chic Italian lifestyle and a strong personality. Founded in Italy, ANONIMO offers watches that express both strength and elegance. With their robust cushion-form cases, The MILITARE and NAUTILO sports watch lines are remarkable for their unusual construction, with their offset crown at either noon or 4 o’clock, and their dials bearing the traditional reading of a triangle at 12, 4 and 8 o’clock, recalling the A of ANONIMO. Pioneers in the use of original materials, it was the first brand to offer diving watches in bronze. Reacting to its environment, this alloy develops a unique sheen over time, acquiring a very personal touch that makes each watch unique.
NAUTILO
Diameter 45.5 mm from 1’890 to 2’790 CHF
In 2018, a third line, EPURATO, took the main identity markers of the brand and keeps an automatic movement. More refined, and with a smaller diameter that its bigger stable mates, this elegant line is also eminently contemporary. Equipped with a new interchangeability system for its straps, it is now easy to combine both structure and colour depending on one’s desires : an absolute must in the era of personalization. Based on the other side of the Matterhorn since 2013, all the watches now correspond to the criteria of Swiss Made and ANONIMO continues to offer bronze as a choice in each of its collections. Leaning heavily on the codes of Italian elegance, ANONIMO goes over and above the traditional approach and offers different ways to dress its watches. www.anonimo.com
ANONIMO_Pub_Institutionnelle_210x285mm_V8.indd 3
03.07.18 14:03
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
Red as in love: the new PanoMatic Luna from Glashütte Original THE LIMITED SPECIAL EDITION MAKES A PASSIONATE AND GLAMOUROUS APPEARANCE
THERE ARE KISSES ONE SIMPLY CANNOT FORGET as long as one
54
Glashütte Original Panorama Date adorn the right side.
lives. Some even lend one wings: in fairy tales, they awaken
RADIANT BEAUTY AND LUMINOUS COLOUR
enchanted princesses, and for passionate makers of mechanical
What, without the brilliance of the stars, would a romantic
movements, the moment they first set the balance in motion is a
night sky be? The bezel on the new PanoMatic Luna is set with
very special one – every time again. July 6, 2018 is the International
64 brillant-cut diamonds – 0.95 carats in all – that reflect light
Day of the Kiss, which celebrates the magic of love and passion.
with every movement. They form a glamorous frame for the
Glashütte Original has chosen this occasion to present a special
round, 39.4 mm stainless steel case, whose crown is adorned on
limited edition that truly comes from the heart.
the right side by a ruby. Sapphire crystal, antireflective on both
Studded with diamonds and rubies, the PanoMatic Luna proudly
sides, assures optimal views from the dial side. The watch is held
wears the colour of love, permitting this mechanical ladies
in place on the wrist by a radiant red Louisiana alligator leather
watch to give its classic moon phase display a new, exceptionally
strap, which together with a refined pin buckle ensures a secure
enticing appearance.
and stylish fit.
A DIAL IN SHIMMERING WHITE AND SCINTILLATING RED
AN ELABORATELY DECORATED MECHANICAL HEART
The dial of the new PanoMatic Luna unites two romantic elements
Ticking within the PanoMatic Luna is the manufactory’s own
in an elegant composition. On the white mother-of-pearl dial,
Calibre 90-12 automatic movement, which can be admired
the softly curved moon in relief and the silver-coloured, starry
through the sapphire crystal case back. The latter opens up
night sky reveal a poetry all their own. At 2 o’clock, one finds the
the view to the refined decorations in the heart of the watch,
vaulted opening of the moon phase display, achieved through
and to the coveted duplex swan-neck fine adjustment from
an equally artistic creative process. The curve of the moon is the
Glashütte Original. A great many other traditional elements of
product of great manual skill and attentive diamond milling in
Glashütte watchmaking offer irrefutable proof of the origin of
the watchmaker’s own dial manufactory in Pforzheim, Germany.
the watch, among them the three-quarter plate, blued screws
This spectacle of the changing crescent moon is complemented
and characteristic Glashütte decorative
by 18 ruby indexes, which offer luminous red reflections on the
finishes.
opposite side of the dial, and serve as a frame for the off-centre
The new PanoMatic Luna is limited to 50 pieces and enhances
hour and minute display. They are positioned together with the
the existing collection model with a white, blue or brown strap.
small seconds – in classic Pano style – along a vertical axis in the left
Available shortly in Glashütte Original Boutiques and from
half of the dial, while the moon phase display and characteristic
selected retailers worldwide.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Le Richemond Geneva
DISCOVER A LAKESIDE ESCAPE A BREATH OF SWISS FRESH AIR AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF THE ALPS BREATHTAKING VIEWS ON THE JET D’EAU AND THE MONT BLANC FRENCH SEASONAL CUISINE AT LE JARDIN RESTAURANT LE SPA BY SISLEY & FITNESS CELEBRATION OF MEMORABLE EVENTS
Jardin Brunswick | 1201 Geneva | Switzerland lerichemond.com
#MYRichemond
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
BOVET’s Château de Môtiers 40 “Eurytides Marcellus” SECOND BUTTERFLY-INSPIRED TIMEPIECE SHOWCASES DECORATIVE ARTS INTRODUCED THIS YEAR, the Château de Môtiers 40 “Eurytides
craftsmanship is highly technical; the artisan must repeatedly
Marcellus” timepiece is the second luminous butterfly timepiece
move from a lit room to a dark one to gauge each step of his
to be presented by the Maison. The Eurytides Marcellus also
meticulous work.
features the exclusive world first luminous hand-painting
For almost two centuries, miniature paintings adorning the
technique which premiered in 2017, an innovation that brings a
cases and dials of Bovet’s timepieces have charmed the most
new dimension to the decorative arts.
discerning enthusiasts of art and fine watchmaking, and the
The new artisanal technique involves combining traditional
Château de Môtiers 40 collection confirms its reputation as a
miniature painting artistry with the layered application of
pioneer in the applied arts.
luminescent material, meaning that the work painted by the
The Château de Môtiers 40 “Eurytides Marcellus” has a mother-
artist on the dial’s surface becomes visible both by day and by
of-pearl dial and portrays a zebra swallowtail Eurytides Marcellus
night.
butterfly sitting on a pink flower. The miniature painting is
The skill lies in applying the luminescent material to achieve
framed in a 40mm 18k red gold case and complemented with an
the same level of detail in the dark as in daylight, almost as if
alligator strap.
the artist is creating two paintings simultaneously. This level of
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
Happy Hearts gets a fresh twist!
THE CHOPARD ICON BECOMES THE FIRST ALL-ETHICAL GOLD COLLECTION
IF CHOPARD were to be represented by an emblem, it would undoubtedly be a heart. The spirit of the Maison is first and foremost that of its own beating heart: the Scheufele family. The sense of purpose imparted to its activities and to the future of the company is above all guided by the heart. As of July 2018, 100% of Chopard watches and jewellery will be produced in ethical gold. With its new interpretations of twist bangles and twist rings featuring hearts in diamonds, mother of pearl, opal and onyx, Happy Hearts is the very first collection marking the start of this new era, thereby reaffirming and consolidating the enduring nature of its commitments. Chopard takes to the high seas and leads us to the heart of dazzling marine sights. Enlivened by the whirling dance of Happy Diamonds, the sea reveals its most precious treasures with a new Happy Fish model.
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Hot News By Fadi Jamil
Watch Photo Award winner is Christophe Musy CONGRATULATIONS to the winner of our May competition (Blue Theme) Christophe Musy for his Mauron Musy picture - “Forget everything you’ve ever known about water resistance!” Grand Hotel Kempinski Geneva is going to welcome you and the person of your choice for a weekend.
July contest is on going! visit www.watch-photo-awards.com to register and upload your photos. Join now and have a chance to get a weekend for 2 at the Hotel d’Angleterre in Geneva. July theme is holidays: The ideal watch for the holidays, or a photo of your watch taken on holiday!
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Cover story By Brice Lechevalier
Bvlgari
The Octo Finissimo UFO
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Octo Finissimo Automatic Sandblasted
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic
CASE : in sandblasted pink gold or sandblasted rhodium-plated stainless steel
CASE : sandblasted titanium (3.95mm thick), sandblasted titanium numbered crown with ceramic inlay, solid caseback with an opening depicting the shape of the door of the Via Condotti Boutique in Rome, water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 40mm MOVEMENT : skeleton-worked, automatic (Caliber BVL 288, 1.95mm thick, 52-hour power reserve), peripheral oscillating weight held by three ballbearing mechanisms, flying tourbillon FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds DIAL : openworked BRACELET : sandblasted titanium, triple-blade folding clasp
(5.15mm thick), transparent back, pink gold or stainless steel crown with ceramic inlay, water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 40mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Caliber BVL 138 Finissimo, 2.23mm thick, 60-hour power reserve), platinum micro-rotor, adorned with Côtes de Genève, chamfered bridges and circular-grained mainplate FUNCTION : hours, minutes, small seconds DIAL : 18K pink gold or stainless steel, pink gold or black rhodium-plated faceted hands BRACELET : 18K sandblasted pink gold or sandblasted rhodium-plated stainless steel with folding clasp
H
ad enough of the vintage craze ? Step into the era
of
horology-taming
design.
Sculpting
the
contemporary Fine Watchmaking scene since 2014,
the Octo Finissimo line overturns genres and redefines aesthetic codes. Finesse is now interpreted in masculine mode exuding strong character ; mechanical performance is teamed with innovative and e ffective design based on materials distinguished by boldly elegant treatment. The spearhead of the Finissimo phenomenon, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic pictured on the cover enables Bulgari to set a fourth world thinness record in four years : 3.95mm thick for the sandblasted titanium case and 1.95mm thick for the in-house movement with its gold and aluminum peripheral rotor. As Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin points out : “combining design with extraordinary
movements
means
creating
legends”.
This
dream come true extends to the entire Octo Finissimo collection, and notably to its expression b earing the closest relation to contemporary daily living : the Octo Finissimo Automatic. Winner of the Men’s Watch Prize at the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in its titanium version, this already iconic model welcomes two new sandblasted interpretations in pink gold and rhodium-plated steel. The color effect achieved by the latter is hard to perceive in a photo and takes on its full meaning once on the wrist, reflecting light in a highly distinctive silky manner. In its sandblasted pink gold version, this extremely graphic masculine watch also appeals to women faces begs
by
and to
be
the the
warm
glow
of
its
satin-brushed
sur-
flowing
feel
of
its
bracelet
just
touched.
In
both
versions,
the
that
slenderness
of the links makes the bracelet as supple as leather, while also rendering it far sturdier and original. Bulgari’s undeniable movement-making expertise has been applied to the beating heart of this timepiece, an ultra-thin in-house caliber adorned with Côtes de Genève which can be admired through the sapphire caseback. Can’t make up your mind which to choose ? Opt for both and take turns in wearing them with your loved one.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 63
EDITOR’S PICKS DIVING QUEENS
By Cloé Mugny
Ideal companions for passionate water-lovers, these watches are equipped with a shock-resistant case and boast impressive water resistance. Their luminous hands and hour-markers ensure optimal legibility under water. As an additional safety feature, they are also equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel serving to measure dive times and calculate decompression stops. There is something for all tastes and budgets !
ALPINA
AUDEMARS PIGUET
BELL & ROSS
BREITLING
REINES DE L
DIVING Q Seastrong Diver 300 Loyal to the original design with its imposing case, luminescent hour-markers and unidirectional bezel, this self-winding timepiece entirely clothed in steel is water-resistant to 300m and features a 3 o’clock date display adorning its black dial.
64
Royal Oak Offshore Diver After yellow, apple green and orange comes the turn of turquoise blue to take its place on the dial bearing the “Méga Tapisserie” motif, the rotating inner bezel ring, the screw-lock crowns and the rubber strap of the iconic diving watch.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
BR03-92 Diver Bronze
Superocean Héritage II
A nod to oldtimer bronze diving helmets, this diver’s watch issued in a 999-piece limited series and water-resistant to 300m is equipped with a matching rotating bezel, a shockproofing system and a date display.
Chronographe 44 This COSC-certified chronograph appears attired in blue, from its dial bearing counters and a date display to its matching Aero Classic rubber strap, along with the ratcheted rotating bezel of the stainless steel case water-resistant to 200m.
DELMA
FAVRE-LEUBA
OMEGA
TAG HEUER
LA PLONGÉE
QUEENS Shell Star Black Tag This 500-piece limited edition is inspired by the world of freediving : the scratch-resistant black DLC coating symbolizes exploration of the depths, while the word ‘Tag’ refers to the bottom-plate marker that freedivers bring back to the surface as proof of the depth they have reached.
Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth For its 50th anniversary, the Bathy is back in a more accurate version than ever, featuring a mechanical depth memory and a depth gauge displaying measurements down to 120m by means of a membrane that contracts due to pressure variations.
Seamaster Diver 300M
Aquaracer Lady Calibre 9
Like its forerunner introduced 25 years ago, this 2,500-piece limited edition water-resistant to 300m is clothed in tantalum, whose gray-blue color makes a perfect match with the satin-brushed gray of grade 2 titanium and the golden glow of 18K Sedna™ gold.
Powered for the first time by the automatic Calibre 9, this ladies’ watch water-resistant to 300m sports an unusual look with a 32mm steel case framing a striated white mother-of-pearl dial and a date window topped by a magnifying lens.
Automatique
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 65
EDITOR’S PICKS RACING BEAUTIES
By Cloé Mugny
Partnerships with the world of car or motorbike racing are legion in the field of luxury watchmaking. Brand logos adorn the drivers’ race suits, various racing cars, or float by the side of the track. Technical colors and characteristics are picked up to create timepieces tailored to the practice of these high-speed sports, ensuring there are no more excuses for missing out on the race against time.
BAUME & MERCIER
CHOPARD
FREDERIQUE CONSTANT
ARTYA
COURSE
RACING Clifton Club Indian® Burt
66
Mille Miglia Racing
Vintage Rally Healey
Race 250 GTO Inspired by the 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO, the hand-crafted dial of this unique model within a series of nine pays tribute to the famous racing car through a 3D design depicting a spoked wheel, driven by a fast-rotation system.
Munro Tribute 1967
Colours
Chronograph Automatic
In tribute to the world record set by Burt Munro in 1967, this watch features key details such as 184 for the timed speed record; 35 for the driver’s lucky number; and a sandblasted silvercolored dial representing the Bonneville Salt Flats where the feat was accomplished.
To celebrate the 30th anniversary of its partnership with the Mille Miglia rally, Chopard has created five chronographs sporting the historical national colors of car liveries back in the day : Italian red, British green, German gray, Belgian yellow and French blue.
As official partner of the 5th European Healey Meeting, the brand introduced a selfwinding chronograph in a 2,888-piece limited edition, featuring two counters and fitted with a perforated strap echoing the design of classic Healey steering wheels.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Collection Medici en résine acrylique, aspect bois, attributs en palladium. Le stylo à plume Oversize est équipé du système Power Filler. Le stylo à plume Medium est équipé du système à Converter. Le Medici est également disponible en Roller, Bille et Mine. www.visconti.it
EDITOR’S PICKS TO THE FOUR WINDS
By Cloé Mugny
Time-measuring instruments are indispensable for airborne exploration and are an integral part of flight instruments. In mid-sky, pilots rely on temporal points of reference for guidance in confidently charting a course towards their destination.
BELL & ROSS
GRAHAM
LOUIS VUITTON
ZENITH
AIR BR V2-94 Racing Bird Capable of taking part in the Reno Air Races, the most extreme speed competition, the BR-Bird plane created by the brand inspired this 999-piece limited-edition chronograph reflecting the colors of the aircraft and the font appearing on the onboard counters.
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Chronofighter
Tambour Essential
Vintage Aircraft
Grey GMT
Inspired by the historical watches used by airforce pilots, this self-winding chronograph with its broad 44mm aged stainless steel and gray case sports a riveted black dial bearing hands and hour-markers enhanced with Super-LumiNova®.
Fitted with lugs reminiscent of the corners on the trunks produced by Gaston-Louis Vuitton, this GMT watch designed for travelers features an anthracite dial with luminescent hands for home time and a red hand for local time.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Pilot Type 20 Extra Special 40 mm Despite its neo-vintage style combining a bronze case with a matt blue dial, this automatic model remains true to the historical Zenith aviation watches with its in-house movement, its fluted crown and its large luminescent Arabic numerals.
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Rules of engagement
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
ULYSSE NARDIN Marine Torpilleur
Colors, functions, accessories : military watches come in a variety of uniforms as diverse as the armies that inspire them. They nonetheless share a number of design codes for which GMT suggests a deciphering exercise.
T
he military watch is engaged in a campaign to conquer wrists the world over. Utilitarian, pragmatic and robust, it boasts all the advantages of its functional nature. In paral-
lel, however, the fashion world is eagerly adopting its aesthetic codes in terms of both colors and design. What’s more, given its role as standard issue provided by various States, it has historically been relatively inexpensive, a strong argument in this day and age. The military watch is thus modest-looking and appears mainly in steel, occasionally in titanium and never in gold. It is fairly large in order to remain eminently legible as befits its stature. Finally, it is built for action on the ground, at least in theory, and is thus expected to be both rugged and reliable. Exit slim cases and fragile complications. The last aspect is its means of attachment. Leather straps age less gracefully than metal and woven synthetic fibers. And if it can in passing be transformed into a tool or instrument, all to the good !
PANERAI Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech 3 Days Automatic, PAM616
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I
71
GRAHAM
Chronofighter Limited Edition Navy Seal
BELL & ROSS WW1-92 Military
ORIS Altimeter Rega Limited
BREGUET Type XXI ref.3817
Edition
AIR To calculate their speed and trajectory, fighter pilots need a chronograph. And so as not to waste precious time resetting it before restarting a timing operation, they have adopted the flyback function as their favorite complication. Historically, the standard was set by the French Naval Aviation and its Type XX specifications. Breguet was the original supplier and continues to provide these large timepieces, at a relatively hefty price. Meanwhile, bombardiers had the B-Uhr. To help them drop their munitions at an exact time, they wore wide wristwatches featuring separate and contrasting minutes and hours scales, a tradition still cultivated by Bell & Ross. And to take things to the next level, Oris even offers Altimeter models bearing an altitude scale graduated in feet or meters.
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TUDOR Heritage Ranger
HAMILTON
Khaki Field Mechanical
TAG HEUER
VICTORINOX
Aquaracer Khaki Calibre 5
INOX Carbon, bracelet Paracord
LAND Foot soldiers do not require advanced functions, but rather the ability to merge into their surroundings, which is why military watches tend to stick to three color codes. The first is olive green, which has never been trendier. TAG Heuer has leapt into the breach with an Aquaracer Khaki. The second is somewhat rarer, but sandy shades have always been part of the military watch design vocabulary, as in Hamilton’s recently revamped Khaki Field. The third and last is camouflage. Whatever the color, it’s the motif that counts. It must sow confusion and blur visibility, an approach that Graham has interpreted in many different ways.
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SEA The diver’s watch owes almost everything to armed forces : its readings, its norms, its legendary models. But when all is said and done, the most interesting interpretations are those linked with commandos. Their color is black, preferably total black. Panerai has chosen it to attire one of its most advanced watches : the PAM 616. This diver’s model is equipped with a case made of Carbotech, a high resistance composite material striped like the skin of a tiger shark. Nonetheless, the Navy is not all about underwater feats. Ulysse Nardin perpetuates the tradition of deck chronometers. These extremely broad, ultra-legible models with large numerals have never had blue dials. Cream or black reign supreme, as exemplified in the Marine Torpilleur models.
WRIST NATO has never been as ‘hot’ as it now is. Named after the chronograph straps selected for NATO pilots, these woven synthetic fiber wristbands are robust, easily interchangeable and easily fitted on Velcro. The Paracord strap, which gained popularity through its use for the INOX watch by Victorinox, is made of nylon used for parachute suspension lines. Its woven strands can be unraveled to serve as a survival tool. The theater of operations would not be complete without a Bund strap, composed of a single piece of leather bearing a medallion running under the watch caseback, as on Tudor’s Ranger model. Military codes have thus become aesthetic nods or staple design features, like beige Super-LumiNova®, gray or black PVD-coated cases and an urban warrior look.
PAUL O’NEIL Chief Editor of WorldTempus.com
T
he three branches of the military have each made their own contributions to the development of the wristwatch. Infantrymen in the first world war were among the first to start wearing watches on the wrist, creating a whole new watch genre called
the “trench watch”. Not long after, pilots did the same and their need for precise timing in waypoint navigation led to functions like the flyback chronograph hand. At the extreme, Officine Panerai, famous for its dive watches for Italian navy frogmen in the second world war, produced solely for military customers right up until the 1990s. Scan the QR code to see more military-inspired watches on WorldTempus.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 75
Interview By Brice Lechevalier
Thierry Esslinger CEO Breguet At Baselworld, Breguet devoted a good deal of importance to the announcement of the Race for Water partnership. We were indeed keen to turn the spotlight on this fantastic project. Breguet has long since been driven by a thirst for innovation, and Nicolas G. Hayek Sr. was extremely concerned with finding technologies designed to safeguard the environment, as expressed through his founding of Belenos Clean Power. It turns out that Race for Water is a response to questions raised by this quest for sustainability, and we realized right from our first encounter with the organization that we shared the same convictions in this regard. It is fantastic to see entrepreneurs such as Marco Simeoni reflect our own aspirations regarding these issues and to be able to undertake a long-term endeavor along with them. Race for Water aims to achieve a blue economy and a lifestyle ideal designed to actively safeguard our planet. We believe in this vision. The Race for Water program is completely defined with 35 stages around the world and specific experiments – all of which does not preclude learning from each other and exchanging views with Belenos, and potentially extending our initial partnership slated to run through to 2021. It would be irresponsible not to champion such a noble cause.
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You presented a Marine in titanium at Baselworld : will you be using this material more often in the future ? Our extremely organized and very effective R&D department has conducted a great deal of research on materials in recent years. We became aware that the classic materials we had traditionally used were a perfect match for our approach to watchmaking, without requiring us to resort to processes that we did not feel were worth implementing. The digression into titanium we have made for the Marine relates to the fact that it is resistant to seawater corrosion, which is of course entirely suited to a collection bearing such a name. Which do you see as the flagship model among the 27 references in the Marine collection ? While the Équation Marchante naturally stands out, the Alarme Musicale appeals to numerous customers, as does the Chronograph. One of the major assets of this range lies in the exceptional breadth of its range – a response to expectations expressed by our worldwide clientele. Its innovative design is not necessarily noticeable at first glance, since it involves a large number of small details. By way of example, the ‘tail’ or counterweight of the hand bearing the B for Breguet is symbolized by a reinterpreted maritime signal flag ;
“We have been able to reach Millennials and we realize that our client base is distinctly younger than it used to be”
the
shape
o’clock
of
the
1
numerals
evokes a ship’s castle ; the
spring-bar
screw
is inspired by navigational buoys serving to indicate
that
vessels
should enter navigation channels from a west-
erly direction ; the movement bearing a hand-guilloché double Côtes de Genève pattern is reminiscent of a ship’s deck ; while the gold oscillating weight is shaped like a rudder. From a technical standpoint, the movements of the Marine collection are some of the most advanced, since they incorporate all the breakthroughs achieved in recent years with regard to reliability and performance. As always in the luxury world, everything is a matter of subtlety, but it is well worth taking a moment to admire the chronograph movement: for the very time, the clutch bridge fitted on the clutch lever is made of aluminum so as to reduce inertia and improve resistance to accelerations.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I
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The majority of brands are developing their ladies’ watch range, but that doesn’t seem to be the case for Breguet this year ? We have been staggered by the success of the Reine de Naples
“From a technical standpoint, the movements of the Marine collection are some of the most advanced”
and, for the first time since its launch in the 2000s, we presented at Baselworld 2018 a model based on the original, complete with its moon phase and power reserve. But we prefer to give ourselves plenty of time for the development of the new feminine models planned for next year. Which are the challenges facing Breguet in the coming years ? For a House as innovative as Breguet, the greatest challenge doubtless lies in remaining classical, notably in the delicate art of developing special collections. The next decade will doubtless see Breguet choosing to emphasize highly sophisticated horological complications introduced at a brisker pace. Is Breguet also seeking to address millennials ? We have in fact realized that our client base is distinctly younger than it used to be, which goes to show that we have been able to reach millennials. Given the fact that the average age of our customers is dropping and that we remain closely attuned to our markets, notably in Asia, we enjoy an ever better understanding of their aspirations in terms of design, as well as with regard to service and communication. In your view, to which aspects should the world of Haute Horlogerie remain particularly attentive ? I would say – although things are admittedly easier for Breguet than others in this respect – that luxury brands must remain faithful to their heritage and their principles. Respecting our origins enables us to approach the future with serene confidence. There is nothing worse for a high-end brand than to lose its identity.
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Focus CYRUS
By Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon
Klepcys Tourbillon Vertical CASE : pink gold ; pink gold and DLC-treated titanium ; or DLC-treated titanium DIAMETER : 44mm MOVEMENT : mechanical hand-wound FUNCTIONS : retrograde hours and minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, tourbillon, 96-hour power-reserve indication CASEBACK : sapphire crystal STRAP : crocodile leather THREE 38-PIECE LIMITED EDITIONS
Graphic mechanics With its collections featuring ultra-powerful aesthetics and technically innovative developments, Cyrus expresses freedom in countless different forms. Freedom to be creative, freedom of tone, freedom of movement…. Independence and boldness are deeply embedded in the DNA of this fine watchmaking Manufacture owned by a group of Swiss investors. Under the guidance of the talented watchmaker Jean-François Mojon, Cyrus has always deliberately opted to ensure it has the resources to express its creativity by relying on efficient production facilities. Forget the traditional tourbillon demurely positioned at 6 o’clock. To compensate for the effects of gravity, Cyrus has chosen to enrich its Klepcys collection with a resolutely different tourbillon. The latter is enthroned at the very center of the timepiece and revealed in a distinctively vertical manner, held by curved arches that accentuate the graphic strength of this model. The hours and minutes are displayed in retrograde mode, while a tiny sphere at 12 o’clock indicates the extremely comfortable power reserve. The generous cushion-shaped case comes in three versions starring pink gold and titanium.
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Focus
CZAPEK & CIE
By Michèle Brunner
Faubourg de Cracovie “L’Heure Bleue” CASE : stainless steel, “glass box” sapphire
crystal and sapphire caseback with anti-glare treatment, water-resistant to 50m SIZE : 41.5mm MOVEMENT : mechanical selfwinding Czapek SXH3, integrated columnwheel chronograph, 65h power reserve, 36,000 vph, COSC-certified FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, stop-seconds, date DIAL : galvanic blue, exclusive Czapek “Ricochet” guilloche pattern, rhodium-plated steel hands STRAP : alligator leather, folding clasp
First chronograph milestone
on a royal road After the Quai des Bergues (Geneva) and Place Vendôme (Paris), Czapek & Cie metaphorically whisks us off to the Faubourg de Cracovie to discover its first chronograph model. Like the two previous collections, this newcomer is named after a boutique opened by François Czapek – in this case in 1850 and on one of Warsaw’s most prestigious streets, Krakowskie Przedmieście : Faubourg de Cracovie in French. It also houses the Maison’s third movement, self-winding Caliber SXH3, developed by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier and equipped with a column wheel and vertical coupling clutch. Remarkably balanced with its 30-minute and 12-hour counters horizontally aligned in the center and complemented by a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock carrying the date display, the blue dial features a concentric “Ricochet” guilloché pattern rippling around the two large counters, like pebbles tossed into the water. Inspired by a motif used by François Czapek himself and typical of the brand’s Quai des Bergues models, this design appears in a larger version here, endowing the watch with a more contemporary and dynamic spirit emphasized by the red tip of the slender sweep-seconds hand. The Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph also comes in a black-guilloché “Dioné & Rhéa” version or a more classic white “Grand Feu” enamel interpretation.
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BUCHERER
By Brice Lechevalier
Harley-Davidson Blue Edition by Bucherer Gemset one-of-a-kind model delivered with two one of-akind Patravi Traveltec II watches by Carl F. Bucherer
The most powerful ever
Blue Edition Carl F. Bucherer, Bucherer and Bündnerbike are the three driving forces behind the Harley-Davidson Blue Edition. Until now, the Blue Edition collection by Bucherer was naturally composed of watches only, exclusively made in conjunction with 17 watch brands (check them out on wordltempus.com), including Carl F. Bucherer. Unveiled in Zurich this May, this one-of-a-kind twowheeler is a triple world first : the world’s most expensive motorbike (CHF 1.888 million in a reference to the founding date of Bucherer) ; the first motorbike to be equipped with an Haute Horlogerie watch and set with precious stones ; and the only motorbike to feature an engine lit up from within to provide an admirable view of its inner workings. Eight artisans and engineers devoted more than 3,000 hours to crafting it by hand : steel, leather, diamonds, gold and silicon adorn the 100hp of this extraordinary feat of mechanical workmanship, which also contains two built-in safes – including one with an armored glass dome. The Harley-Davidson Blue Edition not only comes with diamond rings on its forks, hand grips and one half of the petrol tank, but also with two Patravi Travel Tec watches by Carl F. Bucherer, featuring a unique design inspired by motorbike design codes, of which one is actually integrated within the structure itself.
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BOLT-68 CHRONOGRAPH SWISS MADE
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FERDINAND BERTHOUD
By David Chokron
Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1R Edition 1785 CASE : oxidized and stabilized bronze, domed
sapphire crystal, two lateral portholes and caseback pane in transparent sapphire, water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 44mm x 13.95mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, Caliber FB-T-FC.R-2, 1158 components, 53h power reserve, fusee-and-chain transmission system, constant force, tourbillon, COSC chronometer certification FUNCTIONS : hours appearing on disks in a regulator-type configuration, off-centered minutes, central seconds hand, powerreserve indicator DIAL : satin-brushed nickel silver STRAP : patinated chestnut brown alligator leather with a titanium pin buckle
Oxidation is an art Sailing the high seas owes everything to the bronze marine chronometers of navigation’s golden age. On August 1st 1785, the Count of Lapérouse set sail with two ships, 220 men and five chronometers by Ferdinand Berthoud, Watchmaker and Mechanic by appointment to the French King and Navy. For two years, he charted half of the world with the help of his sextant and chronometer navigating instruments. The latter were made of bronze, a sturdy and stable material that can nonetheless also become oxidized – as confirmed by the sextant recovered on the spot where Lapérouse’s ship foundered, in the South Pacific. This was the tool that inspired the theme of the Chronomètre FB 1R Edition 1785. This chronometer, endowed with a tourbillon and constant force ensured by a fusee-and-chain transmission system, has an octagonal case resembling a marine chronometer as glimpsed between the spokes of its gimbals. It features an architecture similar to that used by Berthoud and a regulator-type display. The 1785 edition is a series of five watches, all made of bronze. Each has been oxidized using a different technique and yielding a distinct aesthetic result, ranging from yellow through classical green to deep chestnut brown. All these shades have been stabilized and are certified non-toxic. Each is unique in terms of its appearance and the approach behind it.
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JAQUET DROZ
By Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon
Grande Seconde Skelet-One CASE : pink gold DIAMETER : 41mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, openworked Caliber 2663 SQ FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, offset large seconds DIAL : open CASEBACK : sapphire crystal STRAP : alligator leather WATER RESISTANCE : 30m
Mechanics
take flight
Daintily fashioned like metal lacework, the Grande Seconde reveals a stylistic interpretation that is a first for Jaquet Droz. Featuring a subtle balance between voids and solids, between decorated surfaces and those allowing the light to flood through, the Grande Seconde SkeletOne stages a mechanical ballet starring the hours, minutes, and the famous large seconds subdial, arranged in the Maison’s signature figure-eight shape. To craft this delicate and airy expression of the watchmaking techniques and decorative arts cultivated by Jaquet Droz for 280 years, the watchmakers of the Manufacture have chosen to reveal only the bridges composing the movement structure, topped by an open hours and minutes subdial and a sapphire seconds subdial. The latter provides a wide view of the multilayered skeleton-worked movement and the entirely openworked mainplate. Even the gold oscillating weight has been hollowed so as to enable light to flood into the heart of the 41mm case in red gold, white gold, or a more contemporary ceramic version. Total refinement through a blend of transparency and absolute lightness.
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LOUIS VUITTON
By David Chokron
Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Mystérieuse Flying Tourbillon CASE : 950 platinum, transparent sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 50m SIZE : 45mm MOVEMENT : mechanical handwinding, Caliber LV110, 198 components, 8-day power reserve, openworked, sapphire plates FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds on the mystery flying tourbillon DIAL : transparent sapphire STRAP : black alligator leather with platinum folding clasp
Between two layers of thin air A sprinkling of metal, a dash of symmetry, and above all a great deal of empty space. The recipe for the new Louis Vuitton tourbillon watch is so simple… yet so complex. Louis Vuitton loves to fit its exclusive tourbillons into platinum cases. That of the Tambour Moon, which is recognizable by its concave caseband and the almost complete absence of a bezel, mainly houses… emptiness. The Tambour Moon Mystérieuse Flying Tourbillon is composed of a metal ring and a floating movement to which it owes the “mystery” moniker. In practice, it is mounted on a series of transparent sapphire disks serving as a mainplate, bridges and transmission for winding. The sapphire-mounted movement has been part of the Vuitton collection since 2012, with the introduction of the Tambour Mystérieuse. The latter was not a tourbillon, but instead an eight-day movement shaped like a small black medallion, right in the middle of a wide empty space, featuring a diamond and ruby power-reserve indicator. While the Tambour Moon Mystérieuse Flying Tourbillon does not have that precious touch, its movement appears to be just as independent of the case and crown, ensconced on its tiny transparent cloud. The only visible elements are the vertically aligned barrel, gear train and tourbillon. This symmetry accentuates the strange and fascinating impression created by this watch.
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MONTBLANC
By David Chokron
Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph CASE : satin-brushed stainless steel, ceramic bezel with tachymeter, transparent sapphire
caseback, smoky sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 100m SIZE : 43 x 15.2mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Caliber MB 25.10 FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small
seconds, date, two-counter chronograph DIAL : panda-type with white background and black counters, rhodium-plated Arabic numerals, hour-markers and Dauphine-type hands coated with Super-LumiNova® STRAP : perforated aged brown Sfumato calfskin, stainless steel folding clasp
Racing chic The new Montblanc TimeWalker collection combines the racing spirit with masculine energy and the style of motorsports’ golden age. The result is both vintage and contemporary, designed for modern drivers. It reinterprets the legendary three-counter ‘panda’ dial while associating it with a new self-winding Manufacture chronograph. Performance meets panache in the design of the 43mm satin-brushed stainless steel case evoking sleek car bodywork. The bezel is engraved with a black ceramic tachymeter scale. The lugs with their finely sculpted sides are half-openworked like air vents. Its MB 25.10 Montblanc Manufacture column-wheel chronograph movement is adorned with Côtes de Genève, circular graining, blued screws and a new black rhodium-plated tungsten rotor shaped like a steering wheel. Perfectly matching the panda dial, the watch is treated to a new perforated aged brown Sfumato calfskin strap, hand-made by the Montblanc Pelletteria leather workshops in Florence, an additional detail confirming Montblanc’s enduring attachment to the values of fine craftsmanship.
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Focus EBEL
© Sophie Narsès Photographe – www.sophienarses.com
By Brice Lechevalier
Sport Classic Automatic CASE : brushed and polished stainless steel and pink/red gold,
pink/red gold bezel, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 50m DIAMETER : 40mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (ETA 2892-A1, 42-hour power reserve) FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : silver-toned with 4N pink goldplated Roman numerals (black in the stainless steel version), 4N pink gold-plated hands BRACELET : brushed stainless steel enhanced with PVD-finish 5N red gold wave links, jewelry clasp or EBEL folding clasp
The wave rolls on More than 40 years after making its first appearance, the Sport Classic collection shows up with some appealing new assets. The motif adorning the links of its iconic tapering bracelet is naturally as strongly present as ever, as are the five screws harmoniously arranged around its bezel made from the same material, whether pink/red gold or steel. Also loyal to the roots of the brand founded in 1911 by a couple, the current management team introduces the 2018 models in several versions for both men and women. While the latter are offered a broader than ever range of 12 models in various sizes, men have a simpler choice between two selfwinding models : an all-steel version with a black dial; or a steel and pink gold interpretation with a silver-toned dial. The price point of the two-tone dial is particularly attractive. The timeless elegance of the Sport Classic is as appreciable as ever in this model, along with its flowing lines and notably those of its bracelet ensuring widely recognized comfort on the wrist, fastened by either a folding clasp or a dainty jewelry clasp that makes it even slimmer.
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MAURICE LACROIX
By Michèle Brunner
The Aikon goes automatic Aikon Automatic CASE : stainless steel,
polished/satin-brushed finish, sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 200m SIZE : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding ML115, 38h power reserve, 28,800 vph, circular-grained, snailed, Côtes de Genève FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : sunburst silver-toned, Clous de Paris hobnail pattern, rhodium-plated hands and hour-markers BAND : brown calfskin strap or stainless steel bracelet, butterfly clasp, Easychange system
Did you appreciate the 2016 Aikon, but feel that its quartz movement left you with a sense that something was missing ? You’ll be pleased to know it has now at last been introduced in an automatic version. One of the chief assets of this casual chic heir to the 1990s Calypso model is undoubtedly its lug-free ‘integrated’ case, that has become extremely trendy thanks to certain star models by prestigious brands. But while the Aikon Automatic thus definitely has a lot going for it, the price tag remains extremely reasonable for such a beautifully finished timepiece. A dial adorned with the Clous de Paris hobnail pattern ; polished rider-tabs on a brushed bezel ; and applied beveled baton-type hour-markers will all catch your eye as a devotee of Fine Watchmaking. On the case-back side, the sapphire crystal will enable you to admire the circular-grained movement including its oscillating weight enhanced with vertical Côtes de Genève. Thus won over by what you see, all you will then need to do is choose between a silver-toned, anthracite or blue dial. And when it comes to the leather strap or steel bracelet, why not have them both, since the new EasyChange system means they can be easily swapped ? The Aikon Automatic also comes in 44mm chronograph and 45mm skeleton versions.
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RICHARD MILLE
By David Chokron
Supercar, superwatch The partnership between Richard Mille and McLaren is multi-layered. The first aspect is represented by the RM 50-03, a superlative split-second chronograph and tourbillon in Graph TPT® made in conjunction with McLaren’s Formula 1 vision. The second stems from the alliance with McLaren Automotive, which produces road or racing vehicles for private clients. The ‘vehicle’ chosen for this second form of horological expression was the RM 11-03, a crenellatededged, tonneau-shaped flyback chronograph with annual calendar and large date displays. The RM 11-03 McLaren is a variation on this model in terms of materials and details. It features a mix of the two most emblematic Richard Mille materials : Carbon TPT® is a composite of carbon fibers arranged at different angles on each layer, while Quartz TPT® is based on a similar technology using silica fibers. Together, they enable this model to alternate between black and McLaren’s iconic orange. The crown and pushers pick up some of the carmaker’s specific automotive design elements, as well as its logo appearing as a titanium bezel inlay at 6 o’clock. RM 11-03 McLaren Flyback McLaren Chronograph CASE : Carbon TPT® and orange Quartz TPT®, domed transparent sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 50m SIZE : 50 x 44.50 x 16.23mm MOVEMENT : mechanical selfwinding, Caliber RMAC3, openworked, in titanium, gold and titanium rotor with adjustable geometry FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph, annual calendar with large date and month DIAL : sapphire, carbon fiber inner bezel ring STRAP : polyurethane with titanium folding clasp
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Focus ROLEX
By David Chokron
Between
two layers of deep water As huge and extreme as ever, the Deepsea has just undergone two surgical interventions : one vital and internal ; and the other aesthetic and supremely subtle. In a highly rare occurrence for Rolex which designates its models with a six-figure reference number, the new Deepsea has been treated to an appendage : 0002. This means that the most extreme Rolex watch of them all has been slightly modified, eight years after its launch. All key essentials have however remained intact. This 44mm-diameter, 17.8mm-thick monster is still designed to withstand underwater pressure to a depth of 3,900m. Its dial features the subtly shaded D-Blue tone that is unique within the brand’s collections. So exactly what has Rolex modified without anything really changing ? First up, the movement : the 126660-0002 model has adopted the latest-generation 3235 caliber with its optimized escapement and 70-hour power reserve. It is thereby keeping step with current watch industry developments. In addition, the braceRolex Deepsea ref.126660-0002 BOÎTE : acier Oystersteel, fond en titane, verre en saphir
transparent bombé de 5,5 mm, étanche 3’900 m, valve à hélium, lunette unidirectionnelle en céramique TAILLE : 44 mm MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique, calibre 3235, 70 heures de réserve de marche, certifié chronomètre (COSC) et Chronomètre Superlatif FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, secondes, date CADRAN : D-Blue, index et aiguilles en or gris garnis de Chromalight BRACELET : Oystersteel, fermoir Oysterlock avec rallonges Glidelock et Fliplock
let has been widened where the lugs emerge – a much rarer phenomenon designed to create a more seamless integration with the case. And the lugs have also been retouched so that the case fits more neatly on the wrist. One must bear in mind that the need for resistance to extreme pressure has generated a watch distinguished by its extreme thickness and equally exceptional reinforcements. To the point where the caseback of the Deepsea is actually lower than the lugs, which proves detrimental to its stability on the wrist and is thus not ideal in this respect. Yet the Deepsea remains a resolutely hardcore diver’s model, a true leviathan.
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REBELLION
By David Chokron
Rebellion Weap-One CASE : titanium, transparent sapphire
tube, detachable, 529 components, waterresistant to 10m SIZE : 40 x 25mm in diameter MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, linear, bi-axial flying tourbillon FUNCTIONS : disk-type display of the hours and minutes DIAL : black disks STRAP : black grained leather two-strand cuff strap with titanium fastenings, customizable topstitching, titanium folding clasp
Creative madness Watchmaking UFOs are becoming a rarity, but Rebellion has not given up on creating standout, outsized, almost otherworldly timepieces. Weap-One is definitely that kind of object. It can be called a wristwatch in that it is delivered on a strap. Titanium fastenings serve to secure the case which takes the form of a sapphire and titanium tube. On request, Rebellion also supplies a desk-type or car dashboard fastening system, created by new partner Roland Iten : a designer of nonwatchmaking objects strongly inspired by the principles of mechanical engineering. The cylinder houses a unique movement, driving hours and minutes displays on rollers fitted inside the tube. The model is framed on either side by two crowns – one for time-setting and one for winding – while a rotating regulating organ mounted on a dual-axis system sits proudly at the center of a broad empty space. Aside from this bi-axial tourbillon, the rest of the movement is concealed inside the solid parts of the cylinder, meaning compressed within a very small area. Once on the wrist, the Weap-One is huge, expressive, matchless and totally crazy in the finest sense of the term.
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TAG HEUER
By David Chokron
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph CASE : steel, transparent sapphire crystal and caseback, water-
resistant to 100m, black ceramic tachymeter scale SIZE : 41mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Calibre 16 FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph,
date DIAL : black, white snailed counters, luminescent baton-type hands STRAP : grained perforated leather, red topstitching, steel folding clasp
Racing
chic
This is a TAG Heuer bestseller, possibly the brand’s most widely sold chronograph. The Carrera Calibre 16 has for many years been playing the role of a relatively affordable, moderately proportioned casual chic sports chronograph. It is regularly reinjected with a strong dose of racing-style aesthetic codes, yet without ever indulging in openworking, modern design or supersizing. The latest version is no exception. This 41mm-diameter Carrera is intended for a mediumsized wrist or a non-ostentatious look. The chronograph features the sportiest 6-9-12 o’clock layout and is all about details. Red accents punctuate and energize the watch, appearing on the chronograph seconds hand, the 1/4th of a second graduated inner bezel and on the racing-style strap with its large perforations. The same color even pops up on the start/stop pusher at 2 o’clock. The dial is of the Reverse Panda type – meaning black with white counters – and even the latter feature touches of red. The hours and minutes hands, as well as the baton-type hand-markers, are coated with a line of beige Super-LumiNova®, adding a pleasing retro touch.
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN
By Michèle Brunner
Overseas automatic CASE : stainless steel, soft iron casing ring, sapphire caseback,
screw-lock crown, water-resistant to 150m SIZE : 41mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Vacheron Constantin
Caliber 5100, 60h power reserve, 28,800vph FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, date DIAL : black lacquered ; luminescent hours & minutes hands and hourmarkers in 18K white gold BRACELET/STRAPS : stainless steel, leather and rubber ; folding clasp
black
Sea-
It did a world tour in 2016 to celebrate its revisited design, its numerous interpretations with blue, silver-toned, beige or gray dials and its new Manufacture calibers. An adventure that was hardly surprising for a refined and sporty watch dedicated to 21st century travelers for the past two decades. At the start of 2018, Overseas is back with a black dial – a first in this collection – adorning two automatic and chronographs models, both made of steel. The other characteristics of this pair, naturally bearing the Hallmark of Geneva, are identical to the 2016 models, including the self-winding 5200 and 5100 calibers launched at the time, as well as their 22K gold oscillating weight adorned with a windrose. The wristband interchangeability has been maintained, and this choice between a steel bracelet and rubber or leather straps enables the wearer to adapt the spirit of the watch to the mood of the moment, alternating between casual, elegant and sporting vibes.
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Focus ZENITH
By David Chokron
Zenith Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback CASE : bronze, transparent sapphire crystal and caseback,
water-resistant to 100m, bidirectional rotating bezel in bronze with a black inlay SIZE : 43 x 12.85mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, El Primero Caliber 405B, column wheel, 254 components, 5Hz FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph DIAL : finely grained chestnut brown STRAP : chestnut brown oily leather with titanium pin buckle
A vintage
air
Between the mid-1960s and 1970, Zenith supplied cronometri da polso to the Italian armed forces. These two-counter chronographs with rotating bezels were distributed by A. Cairelli of Rome. These various features have jointly given rise to the name of the latest re-edition of these military watches : the Zenith Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback models are nicknamed Cairelli by connoisseurs of vintage timepieces. The bronze version featured here is the third series reissued by Zenith. The first was steel and black, the second is in aged steel, but the bronze variation is undoubtedly the one packed with the most retro design codes. First of all, it is made from a living material that evolves and acquires a distinctive patina. Secondly, its finely grained chestnut brown dial not only matches the case, but also recalls the kind of watch faces forged by sunshine and humidity much beloved by collectors, the so-called ‘tropical’ dials. Finally, it is very much a Zenith, with an El Primero chronograph movement appearing in its flyback version, a complication invariably reserved for pilot’s watches.
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Test Bench By Christophe Persoz
Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel time Ref. 5524 S
ince 2015, Patek Philippe has been offering pilot’s watches. That was the launch year of Reference 5524, introduced in white gold with a blue version. This year,
a red gold version with a sunburst brown dial has joined the catalog of the Geneva-based manufacturer and is the object of this test bench. Despite the obvious fact that most of those who acquire this model will not be aviation professionals, given the reputation of the 324 caliber powering this watch, as well as the brand’s anecdotal background in the area of pilot’s watches, we have chosen to approach this test bench from this specific angle.
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EXTERIOR : In terms of its exterior, a pilot’s watch must above all be readable, sturdy and easy to handle with gloves. The face of this 5524 meets these criteria in the usual way, along with the inimitably elegant touch of a true “Patek”. The fact that all aircraft instrument panels feature black dials with white numerals is because this combination is acknowledged to offer the best possible legibility, whatever the lighting conditions. The formula of a matt dark-colored dial plus white (Super-LumiNova®) hands and numerals is applied here, except that the dial features splendid sunburst shading ranging from dark brown in the center to black on the outside. Each detail of the dial and the five hands perfectly complies with the technical specifications in magnificent style. The red gold case measures 42mm in diameter, ensuring an ideal balance between legibility and comfort. A screw-in caseback and flat sapphire crystal establish the functional credibility of the object. The two pushers are easy to handle with or without gloves. They can be locked by rotation for enhanced safety.
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MOVEMENT : Everything has already been said about self-winding Caliber 324 and its performance. We will therefore focus on whether it drives the right functions and is a suitable ‘engine’ for this new role. Although its reliability is now fully mastered and its timekeeping precision (chronometry) is remarkable, one might have expected a more ‘virile’ movement capable of more fully occupying the space available within the case and further enhancing its precision, its power reserve and its sturdiness. This caliber nonetheless plays its role to perfection. In addition to hours, minutes and central seconds hands, a dual-time hand and a pointer-type date display at 6 o’clock round out the functions. Finally, each of the hours hands is teamed with an efficient and discreet day/night indicator. The combination of the functions and information provided on this 5524 is doubtless one of the most relevant and will satisfy a large number of pilots, whatever their activity and the type of aircraft they fly.
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TESTS : The enclosed table testifies to the impeccable timekeeping precision of this Caliber 324. Its self-winding unidirectional mechanism is particularly efficient due to the presence of an 21K gold oscillating weight. The Spiromax balance spring and the Gyromax balance wheel (already analyzed in detail in this column) join forces in regulating the movement operating at a frequency of 4 Hz. The power reserve is announced as between 35 and 45 hours, and those measured in this test were at the upper end of this astonishingly wide range. The fact remains that this extremely low autonomy is undoubtedly the most unfavorable factor for a pilot’s watch, particularly in light of current standards.
POSITIONS MEASUREMENTS Rate (sec/day)
4.2
3.2
1.3
0.5
0.4
0.6
0Hrs : Fully wound
Amplitude
337
319
277
266
264
265
Rate (sec/day)
4.5
3
1.6
0.7
0.2
0.4
24Hrs later
Amplitude
297
283
268
252
257
248
CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ Horloger | Watchmaker In this day and age, the dual-time function is doubtless the most
useful horological complication for pilots, particularly when flying jet aircraft. All the planes that still require their own onboard chronograph are equipped with one, and jet avionics accurately calculates all the times and time measurements useful for flying planes and navigation. When it comes to jets and other planes capable of crossing several time zones, a watch displaying two time zones is always useful. The pilot can thus check the local time or that of the departure or arrival city, but the most important item of information will be ‘Zulu’ or UTC time, the benchmark used by air traffic control centers and pilots. In terms of the functions displayed, their interpretation, their legibility and the ergonomics of the watch, Patek Philippe has made a perfectly successful entry into this watch category. And while the historical references evoked in this realm may raise a chuckle among some readers, Patek Philippe actually enjoys the best possible credibility, since the Geneva-based firm owns and operates a splendid Gulfstream G650, that may legitimately be described as an airborne Patek Philippe !
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Technique By David Chokron
Tougher than tough 100 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
HUBLOT Techframe Ferrari, with case in PEEK carbon
Strenghtening materials and above all their surfaces is a major technological concern. The most recent solutions aim to reduce the high prices long practiced in this field.
T
oughening up watches is a fundamental issue for watchmakers. Resistance to scratching is of particular concern to them, since it spoils cases’ precious appearance and
physical integrity. The watch industry must cleverly hedge its bets in this respect. If the metal is too soft, it is subject to wear and scratching, which compromise its quality. If too hard, it breaks the very tools used to shape it. The widely used steel alloys are a good compromise, but a compromise nonetheless. Tougher materials have made their appearance, spearheaded by titanium, but the latter was subsequently ousted by exotic alloys combining lightness with hardness, such as Harry Winston’s Zalium, or Richard Mille’s LiTal. These proved too costly however and remained notable exceptions. The rise of ceramics is not a solution, because although they are indeed scratch-resistant, they easily shatter on impact – which is why they have had to be endowed with internal metal structures giving rise to cermet composite materials. Carbon fibers are also brittle, and when they are hardened by specific solvents such as PEEK as used by Hublot, they prove expensive and not to everyone’s taste.
PANERAI Luminor Submersible 1950 BMG-TEC 3 Days
Automatic PAM692, in an amorphous alloy
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ROGER DUBUIS Excalibur Quatuor Cobalt
MicroMelt®, in a chrome cobalt alloy
RICHARD MILLE RM 67-02 Alexander Zverev, sandwich-style case construction in TPT Quartz reinforced by TPT Carbon
CHOPARD Superfast Power
Control Porsche 919 HF Edition, in DLC-coated titanium
SEIKO Prospex, commemoration of the 1978 diving watch, in cermet
DOING IT THE HARD WAY All of which leaves post-production treatments. These formerly consisted mainly of hardening the still-hot metal by rapidly cooling it so as to set certain sturdy internal structures firmly place, but this process often also makes it brittle. Hence two solutions. The first consists of cold-working by hammering, rolling or drawing the metal and was long used for pocket-watch cases with large flat surfaces that lent themselves ideally to this technique. However, the complexity of the volumes involved in wristwatches and their production methods rule out this option and cold-working is now reserved exclusively for certain movement components. Among other examples, the pinions of wheel and pinion arbors are burnished for high-quality watches. Crushed by grinding wheels, they emerge harder and smoother, thereby reducing friction and wear. This high-quality work is one of the most underestimated and effective sources of precision timekeeping.
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CHRONOMÉTRIE FERDINAND BERTHOUD
Chronomètre FB 1R.6 in kolsterized stainless steel
BLOW BY BLOW The other post-production treatment consists in hardening the surface of the metal by modifying its structure to a relatively limited depth. This may be done by an addition such as PVD or DLC, which involve applying thin layers of hard material. Another approach is by modifying the chemistry of the alloy. Panerai ceramizes its aluminum cases by using hot plasma to transform their surface into ceramics, while the metal beneath remains soft and can be depressed. Those familiar with the Sinn brand are aware of its Tegiment treatment, which adds carbon atoms to the surface of steel without damaging its existing properties. Kolsterization operates on the same principle with greater efficiency and at greater depth, which is why Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud uses it in its Chronomètre FB 1.6.
TOUGHING IT OUT The last territory is that of the metal structures themselves. Roger Dubuis has experimented with Chrome Cobalt made using Micromelt® technology. Reduced to a powder and sifted by size of grains, the alloy is then heat-pressed before emerging better structured and thus more resistant. Meanwhile, Panerai has explored another field with BMG-Tech metal glass. Bearing no relation to a window, this zirconium, copper, aluminum, titanium and nickel alloy features a chaotic structure referred to as amorphous. The absence of internal structure within the material means impacts are dissipated and this makes it sturdier – even though that might seem counter-intuitive for glass. The quest for metals that are tougher yet not exorbitantly expensive is thus alive and more creative than ever.
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GMT Time Eberhard & Co. By Michèle Brunner
130 years of history The legend of the “campionissimo”
A
number of watches are inspired by cars or car races, but far fewer bear the name of a driver. The Tazio Nuvolari chronograph launched by Eberhard & Co. in 1992 paid
tribute to the impetuous Italian driver – who was first a motor-
cycle champion before dominating motor-racing between 1920 and the late 1940s – in a year corresponding to the 100th anniversary of his birth. The watch firm, which had meanwhile been bought up by an Italian investor during the quartz crisis, was well known in Italy. Commemorating the “campionissimo” – a legend in his native land, praised by Ferdinand Porsche as well as Enzo Ferrari, and whose coffin was carried by Juan Manuel Fangio at his funeral in 1953 – was doubly natural. Not only did Tazio Nuvolari own and wear an Eberhard & Co. watch, but in 1991 the Swiss watchmaker also became timekeeper and official partner of the now famous Grand Premio Nuvolari, which starts and finishes in Tazio Nuvolari’s native city of Mantua. Since the time of its launch, the Tazio Nuvolari collection has been enriched with several chronographs inspired by the Italian champion’s victories and feats, including the Grand Prix or Vanderbilt Cup models – the latter referring to the race he won in 1936 in New York at the wheel of his Alfa Romeo Type C 36. In 2015, the 336 Limited Edition with dual-time display honored the world speed record (336 km/h) that Tazio Novolari set in 1935 on a highway near Florence.
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Nuvolari Legend CASE : stainless steel, glareproofed sapphire crystal, sapphire caseback secured
by eight screws, water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 39.5mm and 43mm, 13.5mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Eberhard & Co. caliber built on a Valjoux
7750 base movement, personalized with an engraving of the model name and a stylized depiction of the Alfa Romeo type 12/C FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, tachymeter DIAL : black, luminescent Arabic numerals and hour-markers, chronograph minutes and hours counters at 12 and 6 o’clock respectively, spiral-shaped central tachymeter scale in km/h WRISTBAND : vintage leather strap or stainless steel bracelet, clasp personalized with Tazio Nuvolari’s tortoise lucky charm
The latest Tazio Nuvolari, announced in February at the Salon Rétromobile classic car show in Paris, acknowledges the legendary stature of the “Mantovane Volante” (flying man of Mantua). Available in two sizes, fitted with a choice of aged leather strap or steel bracelet, this vintage-look timepiece with its large luminescent Arabic numerals features an original spiral-type display of the tachymeter scale in the center of the black dial. There are numerous references to the “Maestro”, including his initials on the dial, an Alfa Romeo Type 12C from the Scuderia Ferrari engraved in gold on the back… and a tortoise on the wristband clasp. The latter is a nod to a gold chelonia tortoise that the driver was gifted by the poet Gabriele d’Annunzio and which became his lucky charm, bearing the dedication : “To the fastest man in the world, the slowest animal.”
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Scafograf 100 CASE : stainless steel, polished and satin-brushed finishing,
glareproofed sapphire crystal, screw-in steel caseback, bezel with white or chocolate brown ceramic inlay, water-resistant to 100m SIZE : 38mm in diameter, 10.65mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding EB.ETA 2824 FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : white or chocolate brown mother-of-pearl, applied luminescent hour-markers, luminescent, cut-out baton-type hours and minutes hands WRISTBAND : white or chocolate brown rubber, or stainless steel Chassis® bracelet
SCAFOGRAF, A HISTORICAL COLLECTION “And the winner is… the Scafograf 300 by Eberhard & Co.” : in November 2016, the Scafograf 300 launched at the start of the year won the Sports Watch prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. An apparently swiftly earned distinction but which actually rewards a famous model by Eberhard & Co. Designed for adventurers, the Scafograf was born in the 1950s, when technical watches from the major brands were in their heyday.
2018 NEW MODELS : SCAFOGRAF 100 AND SCAFOGRAF GMT “THE BLACK SHEEP” This year, Eberhard & Co. is opening up the Scafograf to women by offering them an unusual 38mm stainless steel model waterresistant to 100 meters. Available in white or in a chocolate brown shade that is unusual for a ladies’ watch, it maintains all the key aesthetic codes of the collection : the date at 3 o’clock, the screw-in case engraved with a starfish traditionally used by Eber-
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Scafograf GMT “The Black Sheep” 500-piece Limited Edition CASE : black DLC®-coated steel, glareproofed convex sapphire crystal, screw-
down DLC®-coated caseback, DLC®-coated bezel with black ceramic inlay, water-resistant to 100m SIZE : 43mm in diameter, 11.80mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding EB.ETA 2893 FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date, triple time zone DIAL : black, luminescent curved applied hourmarkers, luminescent hands, luminescent orange GMT hand WRISTBAND : black rubber strap or black DLC®-coated stainless steel bracelet, personalized E&C buckle or optional patented Déclic® folding clasp
hard & Co. since the 1950s, as well as the somewhat virile-looking baton-type hands. But the elegant faceted motif on the bezel which replaces the numerals that are indispensable on diver’s watches gives a softer touch to the watch, while the mother-ofpearl adorning the dial of the white and chocolate brown versions version enhances its femininity. The Scafograf GMT already exists since last year in a black or blue version, of which the 2018 interpretation reprises the main characteristics and the triple time-zone display adjustable via the position of the bezel and of the orange central GMT hand. The new entirely black-clad version bears a curious nickname that singles it out in an industry that loves to use technical or grand-sounding names. This “black sheep” exudes a singular charm with its steel and black DLC®-coated case and a relatively exclusive production run of just 500.
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Portfolio Air-Terre-Mer PHOTOGRAPHY : Edouard Haegi
BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC c/o Tag Aviation
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URBAN JÃœRGENSEN 1140 BROWN LTD ED. c/o Tag Aviation
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ROGER DUBUIS EXCALIBUR SPIDER PIRELLI c/o Lamborghini Genève
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EBERHARD & CO. TAZIO NUVOLARI LEGEND c/o Carugati Automobiles
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ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK OUT c/o Société Nautique de Genève
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JAEGER-LECOULTRE POLARIS CHRONOGRAPH WT c/o Société Nautique de Genève
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LOVE YOUR WATCH ? Win a weekend in a Geneva luxury hotel.
Share and take part now on Hotel partners :
SEND A PHOTO OF YOUR WATCH :
each month, the ten best pictures will be published and exhibited ; and the public vote will determine the winner of the five-star hotel stay. A chance to have your watch photo on show at Geneva’s Museum of Art & History, and your talent acknowledged by the finest specialized media.
Media partners :
www.etcdesign.ch
watch-photo-awards.com
Atmosphère By Brice Lechevalier
Bovet, The cradle in a castle
I
t could almost be a fairytale, complete with prince, dungeon, wrought iron gates, a few sculpted or hand-painted dragons on precious dials, as well as a BraveHeart collec-
tion. Born of destiny and an age-old spirit of enterprise, the epic saga of Bovet and the Château de Môtiers is very real and has been embedded in history for almost 200 years. Towering over the Val-de-Travers with its fortifications running along a forest, it did indeed belong to the Bovet family and is now part of the heritage of the brand under the current ownership of Pascal Raffy, who has restored its aura of nobility. Having undergone a complete renovation thanks to substantial investments made 12 years ago, the Château de Môtiers houses the Bovet casingup and watch finishing workshop. Inside this architectural gem that is a Canton de Neuchâtel listed historical building, the original beams and stones have been treated so as to be compatible with the high-tech controlled-air (pulsated and filtered) atmosphere indispensable to any Fine Watchmaking workshop. The company watchmakers and artisans who perform the entire range of manual decorations, quality control tests on the case, the bracelet and the movement prior to casing-up, as well as after-sales service procedures, enjoy exceptional working
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THE BOVET FAMILY lived for more than a century in the Château de Môtiers, a historical monument built in the 14th century and acquired from the State of Neuchâtel in 2006 by Pascal Raffy, current owner of Bovet.
conditions. High ceilings, generous natural light, a view over the villages of the valley where absinth was born, complete silence… as well as cutting-edge technological tools serving to work efficiently and accurately. Ancestral techniques such as Fleurisanne engraving or piqué beautifully enhance the dials, movements and cases, along with other contemporary motifs spontaneously offered to collectors, such as hammered lozenges. Some personalized versions regularly require up to 100 hours of work. At Bovet, bespoke craftsmanship is an integral part of the service. Clients thus derive even greater pleasure from visiting this unique place, operating in complete symbiosis with the dial and movement Manufacture employing more than 100 artisans in Tramelan. The 3,500 square meters of the Château premises, where around 20 people work conscientiously on their daily tasks, also include modern offices and comfortable reception areas, furnished and decorated with great refinement. It is said that it might play an essential role during the brand centenary in 2022, or perhaps meanwhile during an SIHH. Speaking of Bovet watches, it is no exaggeration to state that the soul of the founding father pervades each of these timepieces.
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Jet-Set By Brice Lechevalier
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LA COLONNE DU TEMPS AND THE DESIGN GIANT
This sculptural 953-component mechanical clock measuring 40cm high was designed by Jorg Hysek in cooperation with Sinclair Harding. Above and beyond the originality and aesthetic appeal of this creation, watchmaking enthusiasts will appreciate the feats involved in its 1.60 meter-long fusee-and-chain transmission system, its eight-day power reserve and its digital display. 55-piece limited edition.
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CARAN D’ACHE 1010 TIMEKEEPER
Handwritten script is becoming exceptional ? Let’s immortalize it with an exceptional 100% Swiss Made instrument inspired by watchmaking : an aperture evoking moon phases, Clous de Paris hohnail guilloché pattern, engraving, manual polishing, lacquering and PVD treatment, complete with two silvertoned and rhodium-plated caps (easier to change than a watch strap !) in fountain pen or rollerpen versions.
YACHTING AND CANVAS
The vacation spirit and a beautifully calm sea grace the walls of the Galerie Kohler in Geneva, notably with this painting (acrylic and various techniques, 195 x 120cm) what else, Slim Aarons by Fred Bred.
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THE SIGNING MACHINE BY JAQUET DROZ
This patented and portable mechanical marvel comprising 585 parts serves to provide an elegantly perfect reproduction of a personal signature, as soon as its user unlocks the four-digit code protecting its activation.
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STARS OF CRANS-MONTANA
Part of the Crans-Montana resort that is just as lively and well frequented in summer as it is in winter, the iconic five-star Crans Ambassador has joined the prestigious Michel Reybier Hospitality collection and a charming new duo has taken the helm of this flagship establishment. Discover its breathtaking panoramic views and its 1300 sqm spa, to be indulged in immoderately.
ARTISTICALLY SEQUENCED SPEED MACHINES
Sculptor Antoine Dufilho decomposes the curves of legendary boats and cars to transform them into miniature works of part, of which some are on show this summer at the M.A.D Gallery in Geneva. As the artist explains : “This sequenced representation provides a kinetic effect as the observer views the piece from different perspectives, causing the sensation of a static object in movement.”
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Zoom
By Cloé Mugny & Brice Lechevalier
ROLEX
sails the seven seas The green colossus rules the waves year-round by partnering the largest international regattas around the world. Be it for pre-Olympic competitions on small sailing boats or the Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup event, as well as legendary races such as Sydney Hobart, the Voiles de St Tropez or the Giraglia Rolex Cup in June, competitive sailors definitely have their own cult watch brand.
ULYSSE NARDIN
breathtaking animal photographer Belgian freediver Frédéric Buyle began freediving at the age 10. A true master of extreme breathholding, he set three world records between 1997 and 2000. He then began combining his favorite discipline with photography and taking highly original shots of marine creatures in their natural environment, free of any cages or artificial lighting. In 2018, Ulysse Nardin has announced a partnership agreement with him to mark the launch of its Diver Deep Dive watch.
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BREITLING
RICHARD MILLE
masters of the waves !
a wind of change in the wake of chaos
After Ocean Conservancy, Breitling is partnering ecoresponsible brand
Despite the logistical difficulties implied by the aftermath of Hurricane
Outerknown and presenting its Surfers Squad featuring three famous boar-
Irma, the 9th edition of the Voiles de Saint Barth drew 53 crews compe-
driders : Australia’s Stephanie Gilmore, who has six ASP World Tour cham-
ting in 7 classes and thereby showing their solidarity with inhabitants of
pionships titles to her name ; her fellow countrywoman Sally Fitzgibbons,
the island. Unswervingly faithful to this event since its inception, Richard
the youngest surfer to win an ASP Pro Junior event at the age of 14 ; and
Mille is now its title partner and has just created the Richard Mille Record
American Kelly Slater, living legend and 11-time winner of the World Surf
Trophy, awarded to the crew clocking the best time over a 49-mile course.
League championship.
After a fierce battle, the Proteus Maxi 1 class contender owned by Georges Sakellaris remained king of the Richard Mille Maxi Cup, winning the trophy for the third year running.
PANERAI
freediving as a way of life For “Mare”, the third chapter of the Panerai Traits video project, Officine Panerai turns to Guillaume Néry, two-time freediving world champion in the constant weight category and holder of four world records, of which he set the first at the age of 20. In the waters off Villefrance-sur-Mer, with his Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio PAM1389 firmly strapped to his wrist, the brand’s new global ambassador shares the story of his passion and is way of life.
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Zoom By Brice Lechevalier
JACOB & CO.
Jacob & Co. with Luìs Figo Feet on the ground and head in the stars : the legendary Portuguese footballer is following the World Cup with a watch by Jacob & Co., which has created a limited series of Epic X in three versions for the Golden Ball winner. Still extremely active and involved in the world of soccer, Luìs Figo has been wearing Jacob & Co. watches for many years, notably including the Epic SF24.
8TH BIENNIAL OF WATCHMAKERS’ HERITAGE DAY For the first time ever, the upcoming edition of this biennial event – involving around 50 workshops, institutions and watch manufacturers across the canton from Neuchâtel through La Chaux-de-Fonds to Le Locle – held in November 2nd to 4th 2018, will be followed by a “biennial ENCORE” organized in 2019 ! The aim is to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the inscription on the UNESCO world heritage list of the watchmaking town planning typified by Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fonds. The program will be unveiled in September on worldtempus.com.
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Zoom By Brice Lechevalier
EBEL
The Maison Ebel gets a vibrant new lease on life An integral part of the Ebel heritage since 1986 (when it was acquired to mark the brand’s 75th birthday), the famous Villa Turque designed by Le Corbusier welcomed Swiss clients and media representatives from around the world in early May. Nicknamed the Maison Ebel, this iconic location in La Chaux-de-Fonds enabled guests to enjoy a preview of the extremely upbeat new advertising campaign inspired by art and shapes, along with Ebel’s entire range of contemporary collections : not only the iconic Sport Classic relaunched last year (see page 42), but also the Beluga, Brasilia, Discovery and Wave. As the Ebel slogan emphasizes, “beauty marries function”.
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Zoom By Michèle Brunner
CARL F. BUCHERER
Running on water to preserve it Laurent Lecamp, Executive Vice President Sales Carl F. Bucherer and Vladimir Voloshin, friend of the brand, renowned businessman and elite athlete, took part in an extreme race at the start of March 2017, each with a Scuba Tec firmly strapped to his wrist. The Baikal Ice Marathon is run between the two shores of the “Pearl of Siberia”, the world’s largest freshwater lake. This event is not only an individual trial of surpassing personal limits, but the marathon runners also compete for a good cause – protecting the lake – to which all registration fees are donated and that Carl F. Bucherer also supports by participating in the event. Although the particularly harrowing conditions prevailing during this particular edition on the frozen Lake Baikal forced organizers to cut it short for security reasons, hearty congratulations are due to all those who were on the starting line !
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Zoom By Fadi Jamil
TAG HEUER
Monaco Grand Prix 2018: TAG Heuer returns to the Principality The Swiss watchmaker invited a number of celebrity guests to its White Party held on the yacht Seadream: American football player Tom Brady, supermodel Bella Hadid, and singer Geri Halliwell. With the weekend being dedicated to sport, the event was also attended by Daniel Ricciardo — driver for the Aston Martin Red Bull Racing Formula One team, for which TAG Heuer is Official Timekeeper — who accepted the challenge of catching a ball thrown by Tom Brady on a boat in the bay of Monaco! For the first time in the history of the Grand Prix, fans will be able to support their favourite drivers by sending them a message via TAG Heuer’s Instagram page. The most encouraging comments will then be relayed to the drivers on big screens and on the connected watches of the grid girls and boys. Monaco, 26 May 2018: The Monaco Grand Prix is a glamorous and
30 metres away! The celebrations then continued with a White Party,
unmissable occasion for motorsports lovers. TAG Heuer is returning to
accompanied by the music of DJ Martin Solveig.
the Principality once again this year to celebrate the legendary Grand
On the day of the race, TAG Heuer will cause a sensation on the wrists
Prix, for which it has been Official Watch since 2011, with its now hotly
of the grid girls and grid boys. For the first time in the history of the F1
anticipated exclusive soiree hosted on the Seadream yacht decked out in
Grand Prix, fans will be able to support their favourite drivers by sending
the brand’s colours and moored in the port of Monaco.
them a message via TAG Heuer’s Instagram page. The most encouraging
The brand’s guests during this glamorous sporting weekend include
comments will then be relayed to the drivers on big screens and on the
Tom Brady — five-time Super Bowl winner with his team the New
connected watches of the grid girls and boys.
England Patriots and car enthusiast — and Bella Hadid — the sublime
This weekend, three watches continuing the party’s white theme are being
supermodel with millions of followers. On the eve of the race, Tom and
honoured:
Bella – dressed all in white – were joined on the boat by Paulina Vega
The TAG Heuer Connected Modular 45: with a white rubber strap, it
Dieppa, Miss Universe 2014, Cadel Evans, 2011 Tour de France Winner and
has the elegance, characteristics and level of finish expected from a
Friend of the Brand, Geri Halliwell, also Friend of the Brand and Daniel
fine wristwatch. This Swiss Made luxury watch incorporates the 150
Ricciardo, driver of the Aston Martin Red Bull Racing Formula One team.
years of expertise, knowledge and heritage behind TAG Heuer. This
Before boarding the boat, Daniel — who is always eager to try new
watch represents an original concept, never before seen in the world of
things — accepted the challenge of catching a ball thrown at top speed
connected watches: the connected module is interchangeable with an
by Tom Brady. The American showed extreme precision as he sent the ball
Haute Horlogerie mechanical module — a Calibre 5 three-hand watch, a
straight into the hands of the Australian driver, who was on another boat
Calibre 16 Chronograph or a COSC-certified Tourbillon Chronograph. The
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modular concept also applies to the lugs and the strap.
2011, the Swiss watchmaker has been the Official Partner and Official Watch
The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01: This model is the signature Chronograph
of the Monaco Automobile Club and Official Watch of the Monaco Grand
from the TAG Heuer manufacture. Having benefited from five years of
Prix. At this circuit, TAG Heuer occupies its own very special place, written
continuous improvement and optimisation, the HEUER-01 calibre has
in the great annals of history. Then, of course, there is the most iconic of the
attained a very high level of quality while its production costs have been
brand’s models, the Monaco, which takes its name from the legendary race.
carefully managed, making it the only 45 mm Chronograph produced
More recently, the brand strengthened its ties to the Principality when it
entirely in-house with these types of materials available for between 5,000
announced that it had been selected as Official Watch of the Monaco Top
and 7,000 CHF, depending on the version. The white rubber strap version is
Cars Collection. Sixteen iconic cars dating from 1911 to the present day are
perfect for a sporty yet fashionable look.
displayed in the museum alongside TAG Heuer watches from the same year,
The Monaco Lady: The Monaco: this watch, with its unique design, starred
which were issued from the heritage collection of the brand’s museum.
on the silver screen in 1971 alongside Steve McQueen, who insisted on
Conquering time throughout history, and through exceptional pieces. This
wearing it during the filming of Le Mans. Since then, it has become an iconic
emotional partnership strengthens the ties between the Principality and its
watch in TAG Heuer’s collections, and is also available in a women’s version.
automotive heritage.
With its ultra-glamorous all-white look, this model is perfect for wearing on
During its weekend in Monaco, TAG Heuer invited Tom Brady, Bella Hadid
the weekend of the Monaco Grand Prix.
and Paulina Vega Dieppa to a cocktail party to celebrate the partnership at the private classic car collection of HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco.
TAG Heuer, Official Watch of the Monaco Top Cars Collection TAG Heuer has had close links with Monaco throughout its history. Since
A delightful family photo to celebrate together the unique history of TAG Heuer with motorsports and, especially, with Monaco.
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