GRAM Magazine: May 2014 // Edition 39

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GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE

ISSUE 39

FREE

PLEASE TAKE ME HOME



Chocolate and coffee. Such a perfect combination

ON THE COVER:

hasn’t been seen since the pairing of blue cheese

Coffee is the greatest source of

and quince paste. Lucky for us, April and May bring

antioxidants and the good news

us both Easter and the Melbourne International

is that sound scientific studies

Coffee Expo. Life is good.

have found that the common fears

In this edition of GRAM Stagger Lees and Le Bon

about excess coffee consumption

Ton celebrate gangsters and the deep south, Ashley Davis talks

are invalid, and higher intake means

about his Michelin experience, Tim Baxter fondly recollects his

bigger benefits. An impressive

food journey in Melbourne and we discover authentic Thai curry

number of studies have shown

at Bang Pop.

a strong association between

Celebrate Mother’s Day with a special collection of breakfast in

higher consumption of coffee

bed recipes from Tucker or serve up some food for the soul with

and a significantly reduced risk of

Lauren Bruce’s phó recipe. On the Bangwagon joins GRAM to

most chronic diseases, including

bring us regular beer reviews, and La Donna Del Vino celebrates

diabetes, cardiovascular disease,

a birthday and three new wines to enjoy.

cancer, Alzheimer’s disease, and

Enjoy, and see you at MICE (Stall 139).

others.

Jess Hourigan, Editor

INSIDE MAY GRAM

4.

4.

4. STAGGER LEE’S

8. LE BON TON

10. ASHLEY DAVIS

14. MY FOOD JOURNEY

MELBOURNE PATRON

WE HEART

MY FAIR MELBOURNE

TIM BAXTER

4.

4.

4.

20. BANG POP

22. PHÓ

24. BREAKFAST IN BED

28. BEER REVIEW

SWEET AND SOUR PORK

LAUREN BRUCE

TUCKER

ON THE BANDWAGON

REGULARS: 18. WE LOVE

30. WINE REVIEWS

32. WHAT’S NEW AND WHAT’S ON 34. DISTRIBUTORS

FOLLOW US!

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From time to time we’ll add additional links, stories and giveaways on our Facebook and Twitter sites. Follow us and stay up to date with the odds and ends about eating and drinking in Melbourne. Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.

Editor: Jess Hourigan Email: jess@grammagazine.com.au Advertising sales Megan Beatrice Jackson Email: megan@grammagazine.com.au Phone: 0424 870 552 Art and Design: Jess Hourigan

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KICK ARSE: SERVING PROUD MARY SINGLE ORIGINS AND FILTER COFFEES


STAGGER LEES 276 Brunswick St , Melbourne. Ph: 9419 5564 Words and photos by Melbourne Patron

ABOUT MELBOURNE PATRON I’m always out and about with friends: trying new bars, hitting up old favourites, checking out events, eating amazing (and not-so-amazing) food. I love writing,

SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT

editing and taking photos, and people are always asking me for recommendations on places to go in Melbourne.

WWW.MELBOURNEPATRON.BLOGSPOT.COM.AU GOOGLE PLUS: MELBOURNE PATRON

nice amount of natural light, proximity to all the action of Brunswick Street,

STICKING TO SINGLE ORIGINS AND FILTER COFFEES ONLY (PROUD MARY’S, BY CONTRAST, OFFERS BOTH SINGLES AND BLENDS), STAGGER LEE’S WAS ALWAYS GOING TO KICK ARSE IN THE COFFEE DEPARTMENT.

and a window bench for people-watching ensure the place is set for the

by whacks of flavour in the form of salted butter, brown sugar and vanilla

levels of popularity everyone expects it to enjoy.

poached rhubarb.

Hirte and former Proud Mary Manager, Monica Chhay, have brought in Chris

While my peanut-allergic, non-egg-eating boyfriend stuck to a safe ham

Hamburger (apt name for a chef, no?), formerly of Twenty and Six Espresso,

and tomato croissant for breakfast this morning (which looked very nice,

The Aylesbury and St Ali North, to run the kitchen, and his food is not for

as croissants go), I decided to try the Big Boi’s Breakfast (but only after the

the faint-hearted. Like Proud Mary, strong and rich flavours dominate the

waiter assured me it could also be consumed by Big Gals): saffron white

short menu.

bean ragu, smoked ham hock, house morcilla, poached egg, herb and garlic

25 March, 2014 saw the opening of Proud Mary owner Nolan Hirte’s second venture, this time on Brunswick Street: Stagger Lee’s. Its location, 276 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy (corner of Victoria Street, a hop-skip-and-jump south of the prominent Johnston Street intersection), has already won half the battle for the venture. Guaranteed foot traffic, some outdoor seating, a

crumb, and toast. There is a sweet-laden pumpkin loaf, a Mexican dish complete with tortillas, salsa and fried eggs, a rich mushroom and polenta dish not dissimilar to one

Unlike its predecessor, Stagger Lee’s boasts a liquor licence, and although

I’ve enjoyed before at Proud Mary, the ‘Mama’s Stack’ containing potato,

evening beverages are not on offer *just* yet, wine, beer and ciders are

cabbage and corned beef with egg - even the porridge is accompanied

already available during current trading hours (7am - 4pm, Monday to Friday,

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GRITS FRITTERS: PURE COMFORT

CHICKEN AND 1970S-STYLE WAFFLES: CHARMS: NIEUW AMSTERDAM’S PLEASANT TAKE CHAOS ON THIS CLASSIC, NOT TO BE MISSED

BIG BOI’S BREAKFAST: SAFFRON WHITE BEAN RAGU

and 8am - 4pm weekends). Other drink options include a “Bucket of Blood”

dark, old vibe and kept a few of the venue’s 1970s-style charms as part of an

(Bloody Mary), juices, smoothies, shakes (at $10 a pop, they seem pricey,

overall eclectic design.

but do have interesting flavours), a range of teas, and of course, the coffee. Wood-panelled ceiling and painted brick behind the counter have stayed; Sticking to single origins and filter coffees only (Proud Mary’s, by contrast,

other walls now have pleasingly varied textures, whilst maintaining the

offers both singles and blends), Stagger Lee’s was always going to kick arse

warm, hard surface consistency throughout. Furniture is typically chunky

in the coffee department. Cold drips are dotted around the cafe, a different

wood tables and short metal stools. There are sprigs of native flowers,

origin filtering through each, identifiable by their masking tape labels.

filament-exposed hanging light bulbs, brown glass bottles for water, mini glass milk jars of raw sugar, and splashes of colour in the form of bright aqua

On our visit, there were several grinders sitting opposite the huge shiny white

crockery. The overall effect is pleasant chaos.

coffee machine (which was resplendent with its fluoro blue lighting effect - does that make it go faster?!), but the grinder mostly in use today was

And the name? Stagger Lee’s is apparently the title of an oft-interpreted

roaring loud. It may grind a bean or two nicely, but it didn’t much contribute

song about the murder of an American gangster. As the follow-up act to

to the ambience.

Proud Mary, I wonder if we are in store for an American folklore onslaught, in the form of multiple funky cafes serving gung-ho coffee and gutsy food.

Service was charming and efficient, but a few dishes at our communal tables

Another day in Melbourne, another slice of Americana. If this one hangs

were mixed up - small blunders are to be expected in the first few weeks of

around, I’d be cool with that.

trade - and dealt with promptly. Guests were seated promptly, or given fair estimates of waiting times. People seemed to be moving in and out all the

STAGGER LEES

time - it seems a pretty smooth operation so far, for the newest newbie in

CUISINE: Cafe Fare, Breakfast, Brunch, Coffee

town.

ADDRESS: 276 Brunswick St, Fitzroy HOURS: Mon - Fri 7am - 4pm / Sat - Sun 8am - 4pm

I remember the cafe’s site in its former incarnation as an ‘old man’ espresso

WEBSITE: www.staggerlees.com.au

bar: red brick, dark, lots of wood, with grey-sports-coated and tan-golf-

TWITTER: @staggerleescafe

capped older European men sipping espressos at its edges and staring

INSTAGRAM: staggerleesfitzroy

moodily at the world going by. The site’s new occupants have swept out the

COFFEE: Proud Mary

6

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P S AY T H A N K Y O U

T H I S M O T H E R ’ S D AY W I T H C H E F ’ S H AT

www.chefshat.com.au


A BAR AND SUPPER CLUB: PRIMARILY INFLUENCED BY NEW ORLEANS

LE BON TON: THE GOOD TIMES

FOOD OFFERINGS HAVE EVOLVED: PASTRIES BY RUSTICA SOURDOUGH 8


LE BON TON 51 Gipps St, Collingwood. Ph: 9416 4341 Words by We Heart.

ABOUT WE HEART We Heart is an award-winning UK-born online magazine, currently flirting with Australia’s cultural capital, that explores the intersections between design, culture, lifestyle and travel.

WWW.WE-HEART.COM

MELAMINE

DARLIN

Steelite

Acacia Wood Collection

TWITTER: @WE_HEART | FACEBOOK: WEHEART GOOGLE PLUS: WE HEART | PINTEREST: WE_HEART

Don’t underestimate the cocktails at this laid-back New Orleans smokehouse. Melbourne is nothing if not cosmopolitan, and if the city’s eateries are a melting pot of culinary styles, then Le Bon Ton in Collingwood is contributing the slow-cooked flavour of America’s deep south to the mix. Primarily influenced by New Orleans, but with the aroma of Texas barbecue drifting tantalisingly through the air, Le Bon Ton is a bar and supper club from the brothers Balleau at the Glasshouse Hotel, formerly Hell Towers Saloon. The French style of the Belle Epoch coffee houses of Louisiana can be seen at Le Bon Ton; the name is a corruption of the English translation of The Good Times, which roll in New Orleans like nowhere else on Earth.

ROBERT GORDON

MIXING BEAKERS Rona

a passion to inspire.... Cedar Hospitality is the industries choice for quality products, innovative ideas and foodservice concepts. Our 2000sqm showroom is fully equipped and our friendly sales team is happy to help with all your requirements.

Another import from Europe is the somewhat frightening selection of absinthes, from which the 72% abv Lemercier jumps out as a try-before-

Hamish McKeown

you-die option (the end coming sooner rather than later, one suspects). If you make it through the cocktail room you’ll find, in the courtyard beyond, an impressive set-up of smokers which do the business on a selection of meat cuts for up to 16 hours. Jerry Sutphin, an Alabama native raised in Texas runs things out here, so the flavours are the real deal, we guarantee... LE BON TON CUISINE: American, Barbecue, Seafood

At Cedar Hospitality they have a great product range, I get fantastic service and the Staff are always so helpful, and that’s why Cedar is My Hospitality Store

ADDRESS: 51 Gipps St, Collingwood PH: 9416 4341 HOURS: Tue - Thurs 5pm - 1am / Fri 5pm - 6am / Sat 12pm - 6am Sun 12pm - 12am WEBSITE: www.lebonton.com.au TWITTER: @lebontonmelb FACEBOOK: lebontonmelb SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT

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Hamish McKeown Executive Chef

THE AUSTRALIAN CLUB

110 William St, Melbourne VIC 3000 (03) 9672 1700

cedarhospitality.com

223 - 231 Brunswick Rd Brunswick VIC 3056 T: 03 9387 4455 F: 03 9387 4140 cedarsales@cedarhospitality.com

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LAURA LOWN: HEAD CHEESEMONGER

MILK THE COW: OVER ONE HUNDRED SEASONAL, RARE AND ASHLEY DAVIS: SPECIALTY CHEESES PURE SOUTH


AN INTERVIEW: ASHLEY DAVIS Shop 2/3 Southgate Ave, Southbank Ph: 9699 4600 Words by My Fair Melbourne.

ABOUT MY FAIR MELBOURNE My Fair Melbourne is written by Melbourne corporate Melissa Lirosi whose daily life involves slurping steaming coffee on her way to work, shovelling pink sashimi into her mouth before her 2pm teleconference and plucking plump dumplings from bamboo steamers on Friday nights. MFM compiles Melissa’s views and reviews on the glorious food, fashion and events in her fair city.

SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT

WWW.MYFAIRMELBOURNE.WORDPRESS.COM TWITTER: @MYFAIRMELBOURNE | INSTAGRAM: MYFAIRMELBOURNE

One of the things I love about blogging is the opportunity to meet incredibly

I started at Arbutus which had one Michelin star, and within three months

talented people who are truly passionate about what they do. Pure South’s

they had already promoted me back to sous chef which was quite cool. I

head chef Ashley Davis is one such person. When I first met Davis he was

stayed there for nearly two years and before moving on to Hélène Darroze

full of stories about the suppliers he works with and the produce that forms

in London, which had one Michelin star at the time. I stayed there for three

the basis and often the inspiration for the superb dishes he creates. Davis’

years and in that time we won the second Michelin star.

excitement for food was infectious and I could taste his passion and the

Now I am back here in Melbourne at Pure South.

respect he has for quality ingredients. I recently caught up with Davis to have a chat about his work and life at Pure South. Davis has a stellar resume with years spent as head chef at two Michelin starred restaurant Hélène Darroze in London. More recently Davis led Pure South to Melbourne culinary victory helping nab the restaurant a chef’s hat in the Age Good Food Guide in his first six months at the helm.

FOR ME PERSONALLY, MY PHILOSOPHY ON FOOD IS ALL ABOUT SIMPLICITY, FLAVOUR AND GOOD PRODUCE. MOST OF MY FOOD HAS A STORY, IT IS CONNECTED TO MY EXPERIENCE, MY TRAVELS, PLACES AND PEOPLE I HAVE MET ALONG THE WAY.

Below is my interview with Davis, I hope you enjoy it.

So how was the Michelin world?

You have an impressive resume. Can you tell us bit about your background

It’s incomparable. It’s just about being the best and always being the

and how you became a chef?

best. The pressure of getting it right all the time without compromise is impossible to describe. The investment in every detail is unbelievable.

I started out cooking in Sydney working at the Hard Rock Café back in the

At Hélène Darroze we had the best of everything, the best cutlery, the best

day. It was through my work here that I met Andy, an Englishman, who went

crockery, two million dollar pieces of art, Damien Hirst paintings on the wall.

on to open a restaurant. In the end, I went with him. That’s actually how

People came in with an expectation and we had to create almost another

I learnt to cook, working with him. From there I moved up to a sous chef

world.

role and headed over to the UK. I spent eight years in the UK, working in a

There are different types of Michelin star restaurants, you’ve got ones like

vegetarian restaurant in Brighton called Terre a Terre, and then eventually

Arbutus which was more of a bistro where people know they are going

moved to London.

to get a good meal and quick service. But then there’s the more luxurious restaurants like Hélène Darroze or Alain Ducasse. When you start to get to

In London I started as a chef departe even though I was already a sous chef.

two Michelin, three Michelin level they are creating a entire world, not just

I took a step back to go into the Michelin world.

food.

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OYSTERS FOR BREAKFAST: COLES BAY, FREYCINET COAST, TASMANIA

ASHLEY DAVIS AND PHILLIP KENNEDY: AT ROBIN’S ISLAND - BEEF PRODUCERS

STRIPED TRUMPETER: CLAMS, SAMPHIRE, SHITAKE, SALSA VERDE PHOTO: JAMES HH MORGAN

CONFIT HUON OCEAN TROUT: SOURCED FROM AROUND THE WORLD: CITRUS, BABY CALAMARI, AUTUMN VEGETABLES NOT TYPICALLY THAT ACCESSIBLE PHOTO: JAMES HH MORGAN HERE IN AUSTRALIA

How is the London food scene different to the Melbourne food scene? I think the food scene in London is great, and people eat out a lot, but I think Melbourne has always had one of the best food scenes in the world. Having worked in Sydney I know Melbourne is much more happening. It’s seven

IT’S JUST ABOUT BEING THE BEST AND ALWAYS BEING THE BEST. THE PRESSURE OF GETTING IT RIGHT ALL THE TIME WITHOUT COMPROMISE IS IMPOSSIBLE TO DESCRIBE.

days a week here and there’s always something new. But I think Melbourne’s food culture has shifted a lot recently. There’s been

Can you tell me about the producers you work with?

a trend towards more relaxed dining which is also happening in London, to an extent, but there’s still room for full service restaurants. I like what we do

Philip Kennedy, the owner of Pure South, has been doing this for ten years

here at Pure South because we kind of try to find a happy medium. It’s a full

and has built up a lot of good relationships with suppliers over the years. I

service restaurant, but it’s a little bit informal. People come in with jeans and

think that’s one of the key factors why what we do works. It’s about going

a t-shirt and it’s a bit more relaxed and approachable.

that extra mile. A lot of people talk about sustainable farming and ethical fishing but not that many people actually do it.

What is your philosophy on food and Pure South?

I’ll tell you a story that might help. There’s a guy that does our ducks, he is the only guy in Tasmania who is licensed to kill game birds and we’re the

The first thing is it’s all about the produce we work with. We try to find the

only restaurant that he deals with because of the relationship Phil has had

best produce from Flinders Island, King Island and Tasmania. The bosses

with him over the years. He doesn’t want to deal with anyone else. Going

had that thought early on because they believe, and quite rightly in many

down there you see the ducks running around eating rhubarb because he

regards, that it’s some of the best produce in this country. That’s not to

just lets them run free around his farm. So when I put the duck on the menu

say there isn’t other great produce in Australia but choosing the best in

I think, hmm what about duck with rhubarb?

Tasmania is what we do.

It’s about having that connection to the place as well.

For me personally, my philosophy on food is all about simplicity, flavour and good produce. Most of my food has a story, it is connected to my experience,

Do you have a career highlight to date?

my travels, places and people I have met along the way. Everything has a place. I don’t just dream up a dish - it’s always connected to something.

12

The highlight would be the day we won the second Michelin star, at Hélène


Darroze, that was pretty cool. We were really in the weeds for staff at that

food. They were doing some good food but there were a lot of elements.

time, and it was my first head chef role at a Michelin kitchen and we were

I just took it one step back and concentrated on the flavour and said “lets

pushing, pushing, pushing. I think we were four chefs down in the kitchen

simplify it but keep it tasty and then we are going to please more people

and the team that was there, we were all just busting our bums. The day the

more of the time”.

news came out, Hélène called me in the office and said we won our second

And that’s what I did. It seems to have worked too, because we won a hat

star and it just made it all worthwhile. All those 110 hour weeks, missing your

this year and we’re pretty stoked about that.

last train and getting a night bus, getting three hours sleep and getting up in the morning to be there at 7.30 am again, it was all worthwhile just in that

PURE SOUTH

one moment.

CUISINE: Modern Australian, Seasfood, Steakhouse ADDRESS: Shop 2/3 Southgate Ave, Southbank

Do you think you have brought a bit of that to Pure South?

PH: 9699 4600 HOURS: Sun - Fri Lunch / Dinner seven days

Oh certainly. Pure South was already a good restaurant before I started.

WEBSITE: www.puresouth.com.au

Otherwise I probably wouldn’t have taken the job. I saw that there was

TWITTER: @Pure_South

a good starting point, something to work with. I actually simplified the

INSTAGRAM: pure_south_dining

created

bonsoy

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baristas WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

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LAURA LOWN: HEAD CHEESEMONGER

CAFÉ E CUCINA: PHOTO: RENNIE ELLIS. COURTESY OF STATE LIBRARY OF VICTORIA

JACQUES REYMOND AND STAFF: PHOTO: RENNIE ELLIS. COURTESY OF STATE LIBRARY OF VICTORIA

MILK THE COW: OVER ONE HUNDRED PUNCH LANE: SEASONAL, RARE AND RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR SPECIALTY CHEESES


MY FOOD JOURNEY “Ah, but I was so much older then, I’m younger than that now” - Bob Dylan Words by Tim Baxter

ABOUT TIM BAXTER With over 25 years experience in the food and drinks industry, Tim is the owner of one of central Victoria’s most celebrated restaurants, The Dispensary Enoteca, located in Bendigo. Despite having grown up wanting to play cricket for Australia, Tim is now celebrated as one of the countries finest authorities on food and drinks.

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“If Tim Baxter has not created the best all-round drinks list in Australia, he must be close”. PHOTO: ANDY H PHOTOGRAPHY

The Age Epicure, 2012

My food journey began over 25 years ago, as a 17 year old learning how to

Sometime around 1994 my wife and I went to restaurant called Chinois in

work a bar in Bendigo. My boss, Martin Van Haandel taught me a lot - but

Toorak Road. It literally blew my mind. Pretty sure Gail and Kevin Donovan

mostly, that to appreciate food, I needed to get out and see and try as much

were still in charge back then, but the highly avant-garde plating and

as possible. So I did.

French/Chinese fusion was something I’d never seen before.

It was 1980’s we had just been hit with fringe benefits tax changes that

The artist amongst chefs was truly celebrated back then – worshipped

now applied to restaurant meals and we were about to enter into “the

really. I had my 25th birthday at a little known restaurant called Guernica

recession we had to have”– so the industry was in flux - you could still

in Fitzroy with my wife Anita and Martin Van Haandel Jnr. To this day it

smoke in restaurants and all the strong players were fine dining restaurants,

remains one of the best meals of my life – I’ll forever thank Teague Ezard

particularly French and Chinese. Ultra high-end produce was used to wow

for that.

the customer. Truffles shaved and placed under the skin of pheasant, and Champagne (not sparkling wine) was regularly used in delicate sauces. You

Toward the end of the millennium, things started to change. Italian food had

got dressed up to go to a nice restaurant.

come into vogue and what are known as “Brit-packers” started to emerge in the Melbourne scene. The influence of the UK foradod scene began to

Over the next five years I would regularly drop into Paul Bocuse’s restaurant

creep in. Incredible chefs like Ian Curley (Stella), Paul Wilson (Radii) and

in Melbourne Central where Philippe Mouchel would serve up food that

Jeremy Strode (Pomme) burst onto the scene and were making some of

changed my perceptions (after-all it was just down the road from the

our most memorable meals in Melbourne. Café Di Stasio, Café e Cucina and

University I was studying at).

Check us out at Stand 21.

ducale.com.au 1300 DUCALE (1300 382 253)

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CAFÉ E CUCINA: PHOTO: RENNIE ELLIS. COURTEST OF STATE LIBRARY OF VICTORIA

EXPERT MATCHING: BALANCING TEXTURES AND FLAVOURS

Becco had already become stalwarts of the adopted Italian heritage that

emulate the winning formula. Formal and fine dining, worked food and the

seemed to dominate the world’s dining scenes. Great, honest, yet intricate

artistry of the chef was now relegated to only the upper echelon of the

and stylish dishes that spoke of their heritage as much of the times.

restaurant world, with Vue de Monde, Jacques Reymond and Attica always at the top of lists…but for most people, things turned to celebrating what

For me, Punch lane and Luxe were probably my favourite hangouts.

was previously considered “street food”.

Punch Lane was clubby, loungy, and perhaps a sign of the changing times, for they focused as much on cheese as they did on anything else – which

The GFC in 2009 dramatically amplified this movement. All of a sudden

seemed to signal a change in the way restaurants were beginning to look

hawker style “peasant food” was considered hip and cool, primarily it

for a point of differenpunce. Luxe in St.Kilda was on the ground floor of a

appears because its affordable, relatively cheap to produce, easy to

building in which my wife ran a design firm from the Penthouse. The owners,

understand for simpler palates and the growing legion of food bloggers,

Donovan Cooke and Philippa Sibley were approaching legend status on the

and most importantly, it could be done with little need for experienced

back of their previous restaurant Est Est Est – which unfortunately I only

chefs. The craze appears to be continuing with burgers, tacos, dumplings,

ever got to eat at once. Add to that, the indefatigable Simon Denton at

American BBQ, Asian-style street food and fried chicken seemingly

the front of house, a hip fit-out and you had quite possibly the hottest and

endlessly spruiked as exciting new food styles and movements.

most (justifiably) hyped restaurants I think the Melbourne scene has ever experienced.

Street food certainly has its place – in food vans, at food markets, at the footy and for some lighthearted fun from time to time. Its delicious, unpretentious

By 2004 the scene had changed dramatically. Movida’s tapas were now the

and tasty, but we should not lose sight of the traditional dining styles, which

talk of the town and Ladro was crowned best new restaurant to extraordinary

no doubt will be back in vogue quicker than you can say “Kimchi Hot Dog”…

controversy. How could essentially a pizza joint be considered the “Best

Pretty soon we will see serious food journalists and part-time bloggers

New Restaurant” in Victoria…? A sign of the times. Ladro was and is a truly

starting to once again embrace the incredible innovation, hard work and

great restaurant – my eldest daughter’s favourite in fact, but it did indeed

artistry that great chefs continue to plate up.

signal a huge change in dining habits, tastes, needs and wants. In 2008 Cumulus Inc. opened and everyone went crazy for “share-plate”

As I always say to my wife when discussing where to eat out…“you can

and grazing style menus, with restaurants everywhere clambering to

make tacos at home – I want to eat a chef’s creation”.

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www.grammagazine.com.au/coffeesurvey

THE SURVEY of Melbourne

HEAD TO THE WEBSITE COMPLETE THE SURVEY WIN COOL PRIZES

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17


Stuff

WE LOVE A LOT

WECK JARS AT CHEF’S HAT With the rise in home canning and preserving, it’s only natural we’d revisit these German classics – keeping it fresh since 1900. Unlike other canning jars, Weck jars feature an open tapered shape that’s easier to fill and empty, rust free glass lids and sealing gaskets that are easy to check at a glance. Weck jars are reusable, with replacement rings and clamps available. Made of the highest quality glass and contain no BPA. Not just for preserving though, use your Weck Jars for food presentation, storage, serving and baking. We cannot get enough of them! WWW.CHEFSHAT.COM.AU

MISS BROW BAR AT SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET Threading is an ancient hair removal technique that involves twisting cotton around unwanted bits of hair. With the magic of thread, and maybe a little help from a brow tint or powder, the Miss Brow Bar ladies at South Melbourne Market will rock your eyebrows. They tell us they’ve never met a pair of ladies’ brows (or gents for that matter) they couldn’t make look fabulous. For a little bit of ouch, it’s oh so worth it. You’ll find them at Stall 233 and no appointment necessary. WWW.SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU

MONTHLY FIX Monthly Fix is a delicious gourmet subscription service delivering small batch product from boutique local and regional suppliers directly to your door. At Monthly Fix we want you to experience new and interesting products and are on a mission to promote the best Australian, growers, makers and suppliers we can find! Each month we send you goodies that you wouldn’t find in your regular shop, to make your mouth water and heart flutter. All you need to do is pick your FIX! CURRENTLY MONTHLY FIX OFFERS: Chocolate, Tea, Gluten-Free, Coffee, Superfoods, Chilli and Wine. And if you’re stuck there’s also a Lucky Dip. Monthly Fix is the ideal gift for any foodie, as well as the perfect solution for that person who is impossible to buy for! Subscriptions for 1, 3 or 6 months can be pre-purchased and are delivered gift boxed. So with Mother’s Day around the corner, why not give Mum something she’ll actually enjoy! Who knows, she may even share… Gourmet Gift or Individual indulgence – delivered monthly. SPECIAL OFFER Enter the coupon GRAMFIX to receive 10% off any 3 Month Fix. Also, the first 50 subscribers will go into the draw to WIN a 6 month Fix of their choice. Offer valid until 31/5/14. GO TO WWW.MONTHLYFIX.COM.AU FOR MORE DETAILS 18


ADVERTISING FEATURE

B’CHURRASCO - BRAZILLIAN AT IT’S BEST B’Churrasco, a relative new comer on the Melbourne dining scene, must be seen to be believed. Housed in heritage listed converted warehouse on A’Beckett Street, the interiors of this Brazilian restaurant boast the only remaining 19th century built hydraulic list, historic roof trusses and timber lined ceilings. The charm of the building only adds to the magnificence of the food. Doing away with traditional a la carte restaurant design, B’Churrasco invites diners to sit back, relax and experience Brazil’s mouth-watering BBQ style cooking techniques. The highlight of this dining concept is undoubtedly the theatre style cooking and serving of the hero dish. Sword length skewers of meat are cooked before your eyes in crackling open fire, and then carved, fresh from the skewer, directly onto you plate! Accompanied with a myriad of side dishes, the meat is succulent, perfectly cooked and full of flavour. The expertise of the staff is also second to none, expertly slicing and dicing the meats. B’Churrasco are open for dinner Wednesday - Sunday. Phone: 03 8060 4770. WWW.BCHURRASCO.COM.AU

STARTS WITH F AND ENDS IN U.C.K. - FOOD TRUCK Say goodbye to conventional table and chairs as the foundation of your dining experience. Diners of today, want to be perched on the hottest new Food Truck and trolling through their social media feeds on the hunt for the latest “pop-up venue” which may only be around for the next week or so. The thrill of ordering more and paying less is all part of the buzz that keeps us coming back for more. With consumer demand continuing to rise - how are operators expected to keep up with the unwavering lines of hungry customers? An OrderMate Point of Sale solution will churn through your orders in a flash. Choose between a local or cloud based solution, plus the option of a customer facing, self-service iPad kiosk (or five) to bust through your queues and give your customers a reason to tweet about you. FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE ORDERMATE’S CONTROL CENTRE APP CALL 1300 667 067 OR VISIT THE WEBSITE: WWW.ORDERMATE.COM.AU

MAY 30 – JUNE 1 MELBOURNE CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTRE

THE CENTRE OF THE FOOD & WINE UNIVERSE WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

19


THE BAR: MADE OF LEGO!

SNAZZY: SOUTH WHARF

ENTREE: SON IN LAW TOFU

NOT WHAT I EXPECTED: LIGHT AND AIRY

POPPING UP: WITH A BANG

CURRY: GAENG OM NUA

THAI SALAD: NUM TUK MOO

UNERRINGLY DELICIOUS: SERVED WITH STICKY RICE


BANG POP 35 South Wharf Promenade, South Wharf. Ph: 9245 9800 Words by Sweet and Sour Fork

ABOUT SWEET AND SOUR FORK Born in ‘93, I’m a recent pharmacy graduate trying to make her way in the world, but

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I secretly dream of a career where I’m paid to read books and eat.

WWW.SWEETANDSOURFORK.BLOGSPOT.COM.AU TWITTER: @SWEETSOURFORK | TUMBLR: SWEETANDSOURFORK

I’m sorry, Melbourne. If you’re a regular reader of my blog, you’ll know by

The rich smokiness of the meat was thrown into even starker contrast

now how regularly I mourn the dearth of good Thai restaurants in Melbourne.

against the robe of fresh mint and coriander, and ample amounts of lime

But now it seems that I owe Melbourne an apology – spoiler alert: my recent

juice.and the resulting effect was a perfectly balanced salad that exploded

dinner at BangPop was as delicious as the memorable meal at Chat Thai in

with gusto on the tastebuds.

Sydney. I had originally wanted to order the yellow fish curry but DAMN YOU CHRIS Popping up with a bang (see what I did there) some time last year where

and your chilli intolerance! This turned out to be an unexpected mercy

The Sharing House used to stand, BangPop is as effortlessly snazzy as the

however; despite being the least spicy curry on the menu, the Gaeng Om

rest of South Wharf. It’s not what I expected of a street-food restaurant at

Nua ($24.90) was still enough to bring a few tears to my eyes.

all; the ceilings are high, the room is almost as airy as the al fresco seating, and there’s a bar made of – wait for it – LEGO.

Nevertheless it was hard to stop myself from eating the curry, even as my mouth burned. The spice of the curry was mellowed out with coconut milk

With a menu written entirely in Thai and a bona fide spice warning, BangPop

and sweetened with kaffir lime and lemongrass, and the resulting brew

seems to genuinely want to fill the space in Melbourne where authentic Thai

soaked into the unctuous chunks of beef, leaving them rich and aromatic.

street food should be.

It was unerringly delicious spooned over a bowl of sticky rice ($3.90).

Our entree of Son in Law Tofu ($13.90) was very satisfying. The dish itself

I could not have been happier with our meal at BangPop. The flavours were

was fantastic – custard yellow blocks of silken tofu wobbled in its light

right on the money, containing all the authentic herbs and spices I had been

batter, ready to be swished around the plate, gathering up the sticky sweet

longing for, even if the portion sizes were a little smaller than I would have

yet tangy tamarind sauce. The pieces of tofu were scattered with crunchy

liked. Be that as it may, eating at BangPop, especially if you get the $49 per

shallots and chilli, and a variety of herbs were strewn artfully on the plate for

person banquet, is still a lot cheaper than flying to Sydney. Melbourne now

us to mix and match to our heart’s content. The only fault with the dish was

officially has it all.

the portion size, with only four pieces of tofu served up, it left me wanting more.

BANG POP CUISINE: Thai

If you ask me, Thai salads contain some of the best things the culinary world

ADDRESS: 35 South Wharf Promenade, South Wharf

has to offer. This delicious Num Tuk Moo ($16.90), aka pork neck salad, was

PH: 9245 9800

everything I had ever wanted. Beautifully cooked meat with an abundance

HOURS: Mon - Sun 12pm - 10.30pm

of fresh herbs, and no boring Mesclun or cherry tomatoes to be seen. Striped

WEBSITE: www.bangpop.com.au

like a tiger from the grill marks, the succulent pieces of pork were juicy and

TWITTER: @BangPopMelb

flavoursome.

FACEBOOK: BangPopMelbourne

WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

21


PHÓ: FRAGRANT VIETNAMESE NOODLE SOUP

PHÓ Words by Lauren Bruce. Photos by Georgia Haynes

ABOUT LAUREN BRUCE Lauren is a communications crusader by day and passionate foodie by

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night, exploring Melbourne’s cuisine hotspots like a proverbial hotspot explorer. She blogs mainly on food but also fashion, travel and sometimes more food.

WWW.LAURENDARCYBRUCE.WORDPRESS.COM

Phó is a fragrant Vietnamese noodle soup that originated in northern

scattered throughout our city). This colourful corner of Melbourne was the

Vietnam and was popularised in the French colonial period. A versatile,

inspiration for this dish.

cleansing dish with steaming, clear broth, it has since become a staple dish throughout Vietnam and made its mark on the rest of the world.

Don’t be afraid like I was initially to create phó at home – just use a HUGE pot to get the most out of your stock components, and hit up the Vietnamese

My love of phó developed when I was a kid. My parents used to take me

supermarket or grocery store nearest to you and you’ll find everything you

to Victoria Street on a Sunday afternoon for a noodle soup with all the

need for this recipe.

delicious trimmings. Even as a kid, there was nothing so appealing to me than this huge bowl of broth (I have always been a big soup person), and

Also, don’t be afraid to change it up – I’ve only loosely stuck to a traditional

the freedom to add as many garnishes and condiments as I pleased.

phó and tailored it to suit my own tastes. For example, you could dry roast all the spice pouch ingredients before adding the pouch to the stock if you

For me, Victoria Street is the heart of Melbourne’s Vietnamese food culture

wanted to. Just as long as you cook the broth for at least an hour with lots

(although there is some amazing phó in Footscray and other places

of different things to flavour the broth in the pot, you’ll be good to go.

22


SPICE POUCH: STAR ANISE, CASSIA, CARDAMOM, FENNEL AND PEPPERCORNS

INGREDIENTS

GARNISH: SPRING ONION, SPROUTS, MINT, CHILLI AND CORIANDER

Sriracha Coriander

1 kg chicken or beef bones (I use chicken, but you can use what you like, even

Lime wedges (at least one wedge per bowl of ph贸)

a combo of both), washed 500g beef brisket

METHOD

2 chicken breast fillets 400g dried rice stick noodles

Rinse the beef/chicken bones and brisket in cold water. In a large pot,

1 large onion, chopped

cover the bones and brisket with water and add the ginger, garlic, onion,

8 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

stock, fish sauce, brisket, a bit of salt and pepper and bring to the boil.

1 6cm piece of ginger, peeled and grated

Skim off any impurities that rise to the surface of the liquid, and do this

陆 cup fish sauce

throughout the cooking of the broth to ensure the broth is clear.

2 teaspoons beef or chicken powder stock Cracked pepper and salt, to taste

Lower the heat so the broth is simmering. Add the spice pouch to the broth and cook for at least an hour (can be up to two hours, or even longer

Spice pouch:

if you adjust the heat).

(You can use an oversized tea strainer or a square of muslin cloth for this) 3 star anise

Remove the bones from the stock and discard. Take the brisket out of the

3 4 cm sticks cassia bark

broth, cut off any fat. Thinly slice and add back to the stock.

2 cardamom pods 2 teaspoons fennel seeds

Add the chicken breast fillets to the broth, cook until no longer pink and

2 teaspoons peppercorns

translucent in the middle.

For the garnish (measurements to taste):

While the chicken is poaching in the broth, add the noodles to boiling

Spring onions, chopped

water and cook until soft and no longer chewy. Drain and divide the

Vietnamese mint

noodles between four large soup bowls. Remove the chicken from the

Bean sprouts

broth and shred.

Red chillies, sliced Hoi sin

Top the noodles with the broth, and then the chicken. Sprinkle ph贸 with

Fish sauce

the spring onions, sprouts, mint, chilli and coriander, and add any or all of

Soy sauce

the condiments listed above along with a squeeze of lime. Enjoy!

WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

23


DUTCH PANCAKES: GARNISH WITH FLAKED ALMONDS

OPEN OMELETTE: WITH MORCILLA AND PANCETTA

24


BREAKFAST IN BED Recipe by Tucker. Images by Emily Bartlett Photography.

ABOUT TUCKER Crafted by some of the most exciting and intelligent young writers, photographers and cooks in Australia and beyond, Tucker combines an array of recipes, technical how-to’s, and features on cooks, food culture and cooking and eating at home.

WWW.HEYTUCKER.COM TWITTER: @HEY_TUCKER | INSTAGRAM: HEYTUCKER

SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT

WWW.EMILYBARTLETTPHOTOGRAPHY.COM

DUTCH PANCKAES

OPEN OMELETTE WITH MORCILLA AND PANCETTA

TAKES: 35 minutes

TAKES: 15 minutes

DIFFICULTY: Medium

DIFFICULTY: Easy

SERVES: 2

SERVES: 2

DAIRY FREE, SUGAR FREE

DAIRY FREE, SUGAR FREE

INGREDIENTS

INGREDIENTS

2 free range eggs ½ cup flour

4 free range eggs

½ cup almond milk

1 small Morcilla sausage, cut into 1cm discs

1 ½ tbsp honey

2 pieces pancetta, sliced

Pinch of Olsson’s sea salt

2 tbsp extra virgin coconut oil

2 tbsp coconut oil, melted

½ fennel bulb, finely sliced

2 fresh figs

½ red apple, julienne

100g fresh goats curd

1 tbsp sliced caper berries

1/3 cup honey

½ lemon, juice and zest

1 tsp dried or fresh lavender buds

1 tbsp olive oil

½ vanilla bean, seeds scraped

Fresh thyme

1 tsp dried basil Flaked almonds to serve

METHOD

METHOD

Pre-heat oven to 170C

Pre-heat oven to 170C

Heat half of the coconut oil In a small saucepan over medium heat. Add

For the honey, combine honey, lavender, basil and vanilla bean and seeds with a tablespoon of water. Place over a medium heat and allow mixture to start to bubble. Strain, set aside to cool and infuse for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, combine ingredients for the pancakes and whisk vigorously. Place two wide ovenproof ramekins on an oven tray and grease with the coconut oil. Place the ramekins in the oven and allow them to heat up before removing them and dividing the pancake batter between the two.

the sausage and pancetta and cook until browned. Set aside. In a small bowl combine fennel, red apple, caper berries, lemon juice, oil and thyme and toss well. In a bowl whisk eggs thoroughly and season well. Melt the remaining coconut oil in frypan over a low heat. Add the egg mixture and stir for thirty seconds with a wooden spoon. Add sausage and pancetta mix and cook for 1–2 minutes or until half cooked. Use a spatula to ensure you can lift up the edges.

Bake for 20 – 25 minutes until cooked, puffed and golden. Dress with sliced figs, fresh goats curd and generous lashing of the infused honey.

Place pan in the oven and cook for a further 1–2 minutes. Top with a good handful of the fennel salad and season well with Olsson’s sea salt and

Garnish with flaked almonds and desiccated coconut.

WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

pepper.

25


CAULIFLOWER BAKED EGGS: DAIRY, SUGAR AND GLUTEN FREE

CAULIFLOWER BAKED EGGS

twenty minutes or until cooked and fork tender. Remove from the oven

TAKES: 30 minutes

and allow to cool slightly.

DIFFICULTY: Easy SERVES: 2

Using tongs, place the cauliflower and garlic in a mixing bowl. Squeeze

DAIRY FREE, SUGAR FREE, GLUTEN FREE

the lemon halves over the cauliflower, add the almond milk and use a stick blender to blitz until smooth and combined. Add a little extra almond milk

INGREDIENTS

if required. Set aside.

½ cauliflower, roughly chopped

Turn the oven up to 180C. Spoon the cauliflower mix into a shallow

1 lemon, cut in half

ovenproof dish and top with the chopped kale. Gently push the kale into

1 tbsp of honey

the cauliflower mixture allowing a little to poke out. The exposed kale

1 large clove garlic

turns deliciously crisp giving the dish a healthy crunch.

¾ cup almond milk ¼ bunch of kale, chopped into 1 inch pieces

Layer the asparagus on top and bake in the oven for 6-8 minutes or until

4 – 6 spears of asparagus, plus 1 for garnish

asparagus cooked and fork tender. Remove the dish and crack the eggs

2 free range eggs

on top. Return the pan to the oven and cook for a further 4–6 minutes or until the egg whites are cooked and the yolks are still slightly runny.

METHOD Tip: place a leaf of kale gently tented over the egg yolks to protect the Pre-heat oven to 160C. Too high will brown the cauliflower and you don’t

yolks whilst cooking the white.

want that. Garnish with some fresh herbs and some finely shaved raw asparagus. Place cauliflower, lemon, garlic on an oven tray lined with baking paper.

Season well and enjoy with some rye or gluten-free toast or straight from

Drizzle with a little olive oil and season with Olsson’s sea salt flakes.

the pan with just a spoon each.

Spread honey over top of the lemon halves and place in the oven for

26


iris&floss art and design

Find the perfect gift for Mum this Mother’s Day www.etsy.com.au/irisandfloss Facebook: Iris & Floss irisandfloss@gmail.com

LET HER EAT CAKE THIS MOTHER’S DAY With a beautiful Laguiole cake server set

www.chefshat.com.au WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

27


FROM LEFT: CRITTENDEN ESTATE CAVALIER OGGI 2012, BROWN: DEXTER COFFEE, CHARDONNAY BITTER CHOCOLATE 2012 AND AND A BRASH HIGGINS TOFFEE NERO/D’AVOLA CARAMEL 2013 AROMA

28


BEER REVIEWS Words and photo by On the Bandwagon.

ABOUT ON THE BANDWAGON Trev spends most weekends drinking craft beer, playing guitar really loud while drinking craft beer and eating as much amazing food as he can stomach – whilst drinking craft beer. He founded Bendigo Beer to legitimise his addiction and hang out with some awesome people.

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Loves a chat.

TWITTER: @ONTHE_BANDWAGON | INSTAGRAM: ONTHE_BANDWAGON

Autumn is a great time for beer...Actually, any time of year is great for beer,

about, I didn’t wait long enough for the beer to warm up and quickly

but what I love about the cooler weather is an excuse to pour something

engulfed a deuce of generous sips. Malty, yes. Coffee? Nope. But then

a little darker than the pale ales and lagers that have occupied the prime

the most wonderful thing happened. As it warmed up, it unveiled aromas

real estate in the fridge over the summer. It’s time to warm you up, not

of (yes you guessed it) coffee, bitter chocolate and a toffee / caramel

cool you down and brown ales are a great first step into the exciting and

aroma. I also noted some faint citrus, no doubt thanks to the use of classic

seductive world of dark beers.

American hops.

A style originating from England, the brown ale is typically full of rich,

Cavalier Brown is a regular tap favourite around good beer venues in

complex malt flavours served just a tad cooler than room temperature.

Melbourne and regional Victoria. It also comes in 500ml bottles, which will

Looking at the impressive Cavalier Brown label you could be forgiven for

leave you with the unenviable task of choosing between sharing this with

thinking this beer is also an English classic, however Cavalier is based in

a friend or indulging your own thirst for highly drinkable, sweet toasty

Melbourne’s outer west and take great pride in their dark beers.

browns.

As I poured a Cavalier Brown into my glass, I asked Heath Shirtcliffe

CAVALIER BROWN STATS

(Cavalier’s Sales Manager) what set their brown ale apart from others

Score: 8.5/10

popping up on the Australian beer scene. “We deliberately made it as a

ABV: 5% (500ml Bottle) 2.0 standard drinks

full flavoured session beer, not a sipper. It gives you bursts of chocolate,

Style: Brown ale

coffee and caramel but finishes as a crisp, dry and clean beer without

Serving Temperature: 12 - 14 degrees

any lingering bitterness like most brown ales do, making it a perfectly

Food Pairing: Roquefort Blue Cheese

balanced beer”, he responded.

Origin: Derrimut, Melbourne Price (RRP): 500ml $10.00 / 12 x 500ml $89.99

I must admit in my eagerness to taste exactly what Heath was talking

Buy it here: www.cavalierbeer.com.au/stockists

GOING THAT EXTRA MILE WHEN IT COMES TO QUALITY. WE ARE HAPPY TO INTRODUCE TURKISH POT SETS. So that you can serve Prana Chai in a unique way and your customers can become part of the Prana Tea Ceremony. WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

29


30

FROM LEFT: SEGURA VIUDAS BRUT RESERVA HEREDAD CAVA NV, A.A.BADENHORST FAMILY WINES WHITE BLEND 2010 AND ROBERTO VOERZIO LANGHE NEBBIOLO 2010


WINE REVIEWS Words and photos by La Donna Del Vino.

ABOUT LA DONNA DEL VINO La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who worked in wineries throughout Australia and Italy. After years of gallivanting she returned to Melbourne to market wine and share her love of all things vinous. In her spare time she enjoys cooking, gardening, drinking good vino and is a selfconfessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).

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WWW.LADONNADELVINO.COM TWITTER: @LADONNADELVINO | FACEBOOK: LA-DONNA-DEL-VINO

SEGURA VIUDAS Brut Reserva Heredad Cava NV

Grenache Blanc and Viognier, with dribs and drabs of Verdelho, Chardonnay,

Penedès, Spain

Colombard, Grenache Gris, Semillon and Clairette Blanche as well. The

RRP $50

winemaking is relatively simple, with the fruit whole bunch pressed and run directly into old casks for a natural fermentation and then blended

I could not help but notice this bottle of Cava. What with its solid metal

after just over a year with only a small addition of sulphur prior to bottling

base and coat of arms emblazoned in silver down the front, it simply

during the whole process.

beckoned me to pull it from the shelf. What can I say? This wine is fabulous and incredibly fresh. The nose opens Segura Viudas is a very old estate dating back to the 11th century from the

with a rich honeyed effect with a hint of brass. The palate is slippery

renowned Penedès region of Spain. The grapes they use for this sparkling

and smooth with flavours of white peach, fresh apricot skin and roasted

wine differ to what we normally taste in wines from Australia and France.

chestnuts. The focused acidity provides a lovely balance against the

For Spain, the varieties Macabeo and Parellada are chosen to provide the

richness and makes it a suitable companion to roast chicken and vegetable

base, which are then refermented in the bottle (like they do in Champagne)

courses with plenty of garlic.

and allowed to rest on its yeast deposits for 30 months. Stockist: Available at Harry & Frankie, Port Melbourne All the hard labour is worth it in the end. There is a lovely richness to this wine’s aromas, with notes of meadow flowers, hay and candied citron in

ROBERTO VOERZIO Langhe Nebbiolo 2010

the background. The palate is refreshing and yet not too acidic or crunchy,

Piedmont, Italy

but actually has some substance and structure. My partner and I chose

RRP $70

alliteration to match this dish, so had Cava and curry. Alternatively, you could match it with creamy pasta or risotto dishes and roasted chicken or

The Roberto Voerzio winery was established in my birth year, 1986, so it is

pork.

only fitting that I should feel so attracted to this label. The artwork adorning the Langhe Nebbiolo is called ‘La Pigiatura’ (The Crushing of the Grapes)

Stockist: Dan Murphy stores

and was designed by artist Riccardo Assom da Villastellone in 1988.

A.A.BADENHORST FAMILY WINES White Blend 2010

Voerzio’s wines hold a cult-like status in the wine world; not only because

Swartland, South Africa

of their quality but also because of the tiny quantities they produce. The

RRP $60

Langhe Nebbiolo is a little easier to get hold of, but good luck getting hold of some of their Baroli (their top wines)!

A.A.Badenhorst is a relatively new and finite addition to the Melbourne market, being sent over by former Melbourne resident and wine guru,

This Langhe Nebbiolo comes from the excellent 2010 vintage. It is still a

David Clarke, and his South African wife, Jeannette. The Badenhorst family

wee baby and I could have easily set this aside for another 3-6 years before

own 28 hectares of old bushvines planted to a varied collection of white

even opening it. Nonetheless, at this stage there is plenty of deep black

and red grape varieties. According to their website, the wines are made

cherry liqueur notes with elements of woody herbs, red liquorice and a hint

by the ‘dynamic and good looking cousins, Hein and Adi Badenhorst’. A

of vanilla. The palate flows thick with a seamless line of Nebbiolo tannin

further scroll down reveals some photos to prove that yes, they are mature

with delicious flavours of sage and a meaty iron note at the finish. Drink it

and handsome South African men.

slowly with some good Italian salami, capocollo and bresaola.

This wine is a rich blend of predominantly Chenin Blanc, Roussanne,

Stockist: King & Godfree, Carlton

WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

31


WHAT’S BEEN HAPPENING MS COLLINS OPENING NIGHT Ms Collins opening night went off with a BANG on April 4. An perfect mix of food, fashion, music and art, Ms Collins is something to behold. With dishes from Jacques Reymond, Daniel Wilson, Paul Wilson and Ricardo Momesso all coming together on a single menu, you know you’re onto a good thing. www.mscollins.com.au

FIRE DRUM VODKA LAUNCH Photos: Dean Schmideg

Fire Drum Vodka launched in spectacular style with a pop up bar on April 11 at Midnight City (33 David Street, Fitzroy). Spectacular cocktails ruled the night with an artful display of some of Melbourne’s best bar tenders. www.firedrumvodka.com.au


WHAT’S NEW

WHAT’S ON

> THE RUM DIARY BAR

> FONDA

OPENED: Serving food from April 24, 2014

OPENED: March 31, 2014

CUISINE: South American

CUISINE: Mexican

ADDRESS: 344 Brunswick St, Fitzroy

ADDRESS: 31 Flinders Lane, Melbourne

WEB: www.rumdiarybar.com.au

FACEBOOK: fondamexican

> 25 APRIL - 4 MAY 2014 Daylesford Macedon Produce Harvest Festival Various Venues around Daylesford More info: www.dmproduce.com.au > 3 - 4 MAY

TWITTER: fondamexican

> THE DELI COUNTER OPENED: April 14, 2014

> LA CONDESA

CUISINE: Mediterranean, MIddle Eastern

OPENED: March 26, 2014

ADDRESS: 211-213 Queen Street, Melbourne

CUISINE: Mexican

WEB: www.thedelicounter.com.au

ADDRESS: 234 Johnston St, Fitzroy

FACEBOOK: The-Deli-Counter

TWITTER: @LaCondesaFitz FACEBBOOK: lacondesafitz

> MR. BROWNSTONE OPENED: April 12, 2014

>THE WAREHOUSE

CUISINE: Cafe Fare, Coffee

OPENED: March 24, 2014

ADDRESS: 1a Welfare Parade, Ashburton

CUISINE: Cafe Fare, Coffee

WEB: www.mrbrownstone.com.au

ADDRESS: 1/6 Mills St, Cheltenham

FACEBOOK: mrbrownstonecoffee

WEB: www.thewherehouse.net.au FACEBOOK: The-Wherehouse

> MEATBALLS AND SONS OPENED: April 11, 2014

> PALLINO BAR & BOCCE

CUISINE: Australian, International, Italian

OPENED: March 19, 2014

ADDRESS: 266 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy

CUISINE: Bar, Charcuterie

WEB: www.meatballsandsons.com

ADDRESS: 790 High Street, Thornbury

TWITTER: @MeatballsAu

WEB: www.pallino.com.au

FACEBOOK: meatballsandsons

FACEBOOK: pallinobar

> MESTIZO

> THE HYDE STREET HOTEL

OPENED: April 9, 2014

OPENED: March 17, 2014

CUISINE: Latin American, Peruvian,

CUISINE: Gastropub, Wine Bar

ADDRESS: 77 Upper Heidelberg Rd, Ivanhoe

ADDRESS: 188 Hyde Street, Yarraville

FACEBOOK: mestizomelbourne

WEB: www.thehydehotel.com.au

Grampians Grape Escape Halls Gap, 46-72 Grampians Road, Halls Gap More: www.grampiansgrapeescape.com.au

> 3 - 4 MAY 2014 Annual Kellybrook Cider Festival Kellybrook Winery & Restaurant, Fulford Road, Wonga Park More info: www.kellybrookwinery.com.au

> 11 MAY 2014 Lavandula’s Autumn Harvest Festival Lavandula Swiss Italian Farm, 350 Hepburn-Newstead Rd, Shepherds Flat More info: www.lavandula.com.au > 15 - 18 MAY 2014 Melbourne International Coffee Expo Melbourne Showgrounds, Epsoms Road, Ascot Vale More info: www.internationalcoffeeexpo.com

> 16 MAY 2014 Darebin Homemade Food and Wine Festival Preston Library, 266 Gower Street, Preston More info: www.darebin.vic.gov.au > 17 - 25 MAY 2014

FACEBBOOK: The-Hyde-Street-Hotel

> EINSTEIN’S RELATIVE OPENED: April 7, 2014

> CLEVER POLLY’S

CUISINE: Cafe Fare, Coffee

OPENED: March 15, 2014

ADDRESS: 1/9 Yarra Street, South Yarra

CUISINE: Wine Bar

WEB: www.einsteinscafe.com.au

ADDRESS: 313 Victoria St, West Melbourne

FACEBOOK: einsteinsrelative

WEB: www.cleverpollys.com.au TWITTER: @cleverpollys

> TWO ROW BAR OPENED: April 3, 2014

> HUEY LONG’S

CUISINE: Craft Beer, Wine, Spirits

OPENING: March 14, 2014

ADDRESS: 351 Smith St, Fitzroy

CUISINE: American

FACEBOOK: TwoRow

ADDRESS: 295 Smith St, Fitzroy

TWITTER: tworowbar

> MONTHLY FIX

> SUDA

Good Beer Week Various locations around the state of Victoria More info: www.goodbeerweek.com.au

> 24 MAY 2014 Salami 101 - Homemade salami workshop series Farm Vigano 10 Bushmans Way, South Marang 64-66 Acland St, St Kilda More info: www.joesbar.com.au

> 30 MAY - 1 JUNE 2014 Good Food and Wine Show Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre More info: www.goodfoodshow.com.au

OPENED: November 2013

OPENED: April 2, 2014

CUISINE: Gourmet Subscriptions

CUISINE: Asian, Korean, Tapas

WEB: www.monthylyfix.com.au

ADDRESS: 550 Lonsdale Street, Melbourne

PH: 9505 3022

FACEBOOK: restaurantsuda

For more upcoming events, please visit grammagazine.com.au

WINNER!

CONGRATULATIONS TO LAURA STUBBINGS, THE WINNER OF OUR

AGRARIAN KITCHEN COOKBOOK COMPETITION. Laura loves to cook chicken and mushroom risotto, with autentic stock, while listening to David Bowie...sounds pretty good to us!

INSTA LOVE Thanks @lovegreenpress for this healthy pic of our April front cover!


GRAM IS AVAILABLE AT 1000 VENUES AROUND MELBOURNE CBD DISTRIBUTOR LIST BANK PLACE

COLLINS STREET

Dikstein

Bistrot D'Orsay

Nandos Press Club

Blue Bag

EXHIBITION STREET

The Forum

BLOCK PLACE

Box on Collins

1806

Tower Sushi

Brown Sugar Café

Café Esc

65 Degrees Café

Waterside Hotel

Café E Biscotti

Charles Dickens Tavern

Café Multitude

T-Roy Browns

Café Segovia

Crema Espresso

Coopers Inn

Olio Cucina

Collins Quarter

Decoy Café

FRANKLIN STREET

Degani Café Bakery

Eleven 37

Miss Libertine

BOURKE STREET

Egon’s Café Bakery

Es-X Café

Aljisen Ramen

Gadjo

European Bier Café

HARDWARE LANE

Bottega Restaurant

Gloria Jeans

Locanda

Affogato

Ca De Vin

In a Rush

More Than Fresh

Aloi Na

Café On Bourke

Kartel

Basic Bites

Café Tono

Koko Black

Sushi Burger The Maj Café (Her Majesty's Theatre)

Cafenatics

Lindt Café

Trunk Bar and Café

Charlie’s Bar

Carlton Club

Macchiato Sushi Bar

Degani’s

Mamasita

EXPLORATION LANE

Khokolat Bar

Donatos Café

Morgan

League of Honest Coffee

Max Café Bar

Earl Canteen

Nashi

Elephant and Wheelbarrow

Negroni Bar and Grill

FLINDERS LANE

Settebello

Florentino Bar

Paris End Café

101 Café Bar

Tastebuds of Melbourne

Gloria Jeans

Plane Tree Café

Adelphi

The Mill

GPO Café

Purple Peanuts Japanese Café

Bluestone

Vialetto Restaurant

Imperial Hotel

Sheni's Curries

BISQ

Ito Noodle Café

Silk Road

Breadwell

HOSIER LANE

Izakaya Hachbeh

Strozzi

Brunetti (City Square)

Misty

Korova

Summit Café and Bar

Bull and Bear Tavern

Movida

Lanes Edge Bar

Switchboard Café

Bull Run

Langleys Café

The Brazilian Bean

Café 53

LA TROBE STREET

Mister Close

The Kitchen Cat

Café Rema

Basement @ 350 Latrobe

Movida Terrazza

The Sherlock Holmes

Cafenatics

Blaq Café Bar

Nando's

Treasury Restaurant and Bar

Cecconis

Café Nostimo

Nashi

Tutti In Piazza

Cherry & Twigs

Cafenatics on Latrobe

Ombra

Zuffa

Chin Chin

Club Chef

Pellegrini’s

Zuroona Café

City Library Café

Coffee Academy

Coda Bar Restaurant

Duke of Kent Hotel

Red Violin

Campari House Creperie Le Triskel

POP Restaurant and Bar

Romano's

DEGRAVES STREET

Coffee Eclipse

Frescatis Fine Foods

Royal Melbourne Hotel

Barber on Degraves

Crema Espresso Bar

Internet Café

Salida

Café Andiamo

Cumulus

Kanda Sushi Noodle Bar

Shuji Sushi

Degraves Espresso

Full Plate Café

Klik Food and Drink

Society Restaurant

Grill’d

Il Cubico Café

Latrobe Café

Spaghetti Tree

Little Cupcakes

KCL

Oriental Spoon

Spleen Bar

Sea Salt

Lustre Lounge

Spicy Noodle Café

Street Café

The Quarter

Nighcat Bar

William Angliss Bistro

The Bund

TOFWD Deli

Overdraft Café Papa Goose

LITTLE BOURKE STREET

Tuscan Bar Grill

DRIVER LANE

Roasted Coffee Bar

Bar Humbug

Twenty Seconds Café

Penny Blue

Rosati

Brother Baba Budan

Superfino

Café 600 (Hotel Ibis)

The Mess Hall

34

Tropicana

CENTRE PLACE

ELIZABETH STREET

Swiss Club Victoria

Ishiya Stonegrill Dining

Issu

Café Scalletti

Tazio Birraria Pizzeria

Korean BBQ Buffet

Café Victoria

Terra Rossa

Kri Kri

CHAPEL STREET

Citi Noodle Café

The Trust

La Di Da

Traffik Foods

Coffea

Virginia Plain

Little B

Food Inc

Yak Bar

Longrain

CITY SQUARE

Hudsons Coffee

3 Below

Jasper Kitchen

FLINDERS STREET

Mrs Parmas

Lord of the Fries

Bertha Brown

+39 Pizza

COLLINS PLACE

Piazza Vittoria

Desi Dhaba

Punch Lane

Feeling Fruity

SNITZ

Kikoo Sushi

Scugnizzo

Roozervelts

Spiga

Kitaya

Shuji sushi

The Garden Café

La Stazione

SMXL Café

Mezzo Bar and Grill


GRAM IS AVAILABLE AT 1000 VENUES AROUND MELBOURNE CBD DISTRIBUTOR LIST BANK PLACE

COLLINS STREET

Dikstein

Bistrot D'Orsay

Nandos Press Club

Blue Bag

EXHIBITION STREET

The Forum

BLOCK PLACE

Box on Collins

1806

Tower Sushi

Brown Sugar Café

Café Esc

65 Degrees Café

Waterside Hotel

Café E Biscotti

Charles Dickens Tavern

Café Multitude

T-Roy Browns

Café Segovia

Crema Espresso

Coopers Inn

Olio Cucina

Collins Quarter

Decoy Café

FRANKLIN STREET

Degani Café Bakery

Eleven 37

Miss Libertine

BOURKE STREET

Egon’s Café Bakery

Es-X Café

Aljisen Ramen

Gadjo

European Bier Café

HARDWARE LANE

Bottega Restaurant

Gloria Jeans

Locanda

Affogato

Ca De Vin

In a Rush

More Than Fresh

Aloi Na

Café On Bourke

Kartel

Basic Bites

Café Tono

Koko Black

Sushi Burger The Maj Café (Her Majesty's Theatre)

Cafenatics

Lindt Café

Trunk Bar and Café

Charlie’s Bar

Carlton Club

Macchiato Sushi Bar

Degani’s

Mamasita

EXPLORATION LANE

Khokolat Bar

Donatos Café

Morgan

League of Honest Coffee

Max Café Bar

Earl Canteen

Nashi

Elephant and Wheelbarrow

Negroni Bar and Grill

FLINDERS LANE

Settebello

Florentino Bar

Paris End Café

101 Café Bar

Tastebuds of Melbourne

Gloria Jeans

Plane Tree Café

Adelphi

The Mill

GPO Café

Purple Peanuts Japanese Café

Bluestone

Vialetto Restaurant

Imperial Hotel

Sheni's Curries

BISQ

Ito Noodle Café

Silk Road

Breadwell

HOSIER LANE

Izakaya Hachbeh

Strozzi

Brunetti (City Square)

Misty

Korova

Summit Café and Bar

Bull and Bear Tavern

Movida

Lanes Edge Bar

Switchboard Café

Bull Run

Langleys Café

The Brazilian Bean

Café 53

LA TROBE STREET

Mister Close

The Kitchen Cat

Café Rema

Basement @ 350 Latrobe

Movida Terrazza

The Sherlock Holmes

Cafenatics

Blaq Café Bar

Nando's

Treasury Restaurant and Bar

Cecconis

Café Nostimo

Nashi

Tutti In Piazza

Cherry & Twigs

Cafenatics on Latrobe

Ombra

Zuffa

Chin Chin

Club Chef

Pellegrini’s

Zuroona Café

City Library Café

Coffee Academy

Coda Bar Restaurant

Duke of Kent Hotel

Red Violin

Campari House Creperie Le Triskel

POP Restaurant and Bar

Romano's

DEGRAVES STREET

Coffee Eclipse

Frescatis Fine Foods

Royal Melbourne Hotel

Barber on Degraves

Crema Espresso Bar

Internet Café

Salida

Café Andiamo

Cumulus

Kanda Sushi Noodle Bar

Shuji Sushi

Degraves Espresso

Full Plate Café

Klik Food and Drink

Society Restaurant

Grill’d

Il Cubico Café

Latrobe Café

Spaghetti Tree

Little Cupcakes

KCL

Oriental Spoon

Spleen Bar

Sea Salt

Lustre Lounge

Spicy Noodle Café

Street Café

The Quarter

Nighcat Bar

William Angliss Bistro

The Bund

TOFWD Deli

Overdraft Café Papa Goose

LITTLE BOURKE STREET

Tuscan Bar Grill

DRIVER LANE

Roasted Coffee Bar

Bar Humbug

Twenty Seconds Café

Penny Blue

Rosati

Brother Baba Budan

Superfino

Café 600 (Hotel Ibis)

The Mess Hall

34

Tropicana

CENTRE PLACE

ELIZABETH STREET

Swiss Club Victoria

Ishiya Stonegrill Dining

Issu

Café Scalletti

Tazio Birraria Pizzeria

Korean BBQ Buffet

Café Victoria

Terra Rossa

Kri Kri

CHAPEL STREET

Citi Noodle Café

The Trust

La Di Da

Traffik Foods

Coffea

Virginia Plain

Little B

Food Inc

Yak Bar

Longrain

CITY SQUARE

Hudsons Coffee

3 Below

Jasper Kitchen

FLINDERS STREET

Mrs Parmas

Lord of the Fries

Bertha Brown

+39 Pizza

COLLINS PLACE

Piazza Vittoria

Desi Dhaba

Punch Lane

Feeling Fruity

SNITZ

Kikoo Sushi

Scugnizzo

Roozervelts

Spiga

Kitaya

Shuji sushi

The Garden Café

La Stazione

SMXL Café

Mezzo Bar and Grill



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