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Gram magazine is a free monthly publication
Melbourne strips and venues in Melbourne’s CBD and inner city
dedicated to promoting this exciting and
suburbs, our readers can enjoy the magazine over a meal, a coffee,
diverse food culture that Melbourne has
a drink or a snack.
become renowned for.
And while the author of each featured blog has their own unique
Each issue of Gram features a compilation
style and flair, one thing that remains constant is that they all seek
of food and drink based blogs that have
to put a positive spin on Melbourne’s food and drink scene.
been taken from the blogosphere and
We thank all the bloggers that have been involved in this issue
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and look forward to growing our relationship with members of the
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This month
media platforms.
Ever wondered what gives red grapefruit its vibrant colour?
Gram magazine provides you with a snapshot of articles, opinions
The answer is lycopene, an antioxidant that is associated with
and reviews that have been published online by local food
numerous health benefits. Inside this issue, check out reviews of
bloggers, bringing the online world into the physical world.
Hub, Campari House, Deadman Espresso and many more.
As the magazine is distributed to over 1000 outlets in prominent
Danielle Gullaci, Editor
GRAM is Food Culture. Compiled.
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From time to time we’ll add additional links, stories and giveaways on our Facebook and Twitter sites. Follow us and keep in touch with the odds and ends about eating and drinking in Melbourne. Gram magazine is owned by Prime Creative Media and published by John Murphy. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content. Editor: Danielle Gullaci Email: danielle.gullaci@primecreative.com.au Group Sales Manager: Brad Buchanan Phone: 0413 672 403 Email: brad.buchanan@primecreative.com.au
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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON HUB (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
6
HUB 35-37 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda. Ph: 8530 8888 Words and photos by Brunch Addict
ABOUT MR LB AND MISS SL Two people in Melbourne who love food set about a journey SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE
to find the best brunch in town. Scouting out new brunch places weekly for you to try is our quest. Don’t worry – coffee quality is just as important to us as the food.
(DETAILS ON PG. 3)
WWW.BRUNCHADDICT.COM
Opening hours:
Fowler, emphasised the community spirit of this local café. They work
Mon – Fri: 6:30am – 5:30pm
closely with the local primary school in maintaining their veggie patch,
Sat – Sun: 7am – 5pm
provide kitchen induction days with The Sacred Hearts Mission and were
Public Holidays: 8am – 5pm
in the process of getting artwork done by local grade 5s and 6s to hang on the walls. Who doesn’t love a café with a little heart and soul?
Coffee: Genovese The menu is split into two halves – The Classics featuring items such as Take a second and have a think about your parents. How the heck did
Eggs Benedict – poached eggs, bacon, hollandaise on brioche muffin
they find great food out? There was no internet, Twitter or Facebook.
[$17] and The Modern Takes which includes items such as Vanilla and nut
Our love for brunch in Melbourne was certainly developed through a
muesli with banana, yoghurt and milk [$9.50].
little thing called food blogs. They described the ambience and quality of a place without you having to leave the comfort of your home. When
To kick off we were served with two share plates of the House made
you follow a blog long enough, you tend to become a bit intrigued by
crumpets with lemon and creamed honey [$9.50] with our coffees. A
the person(s) behind the scene.
normal serve would see you with two crumpets, perfectly made. We’re going to put it out there – these are the best crumpets we’ve ever had.
We were recently given the opportunity to visit the newest hotspot
Light, fluffy and perfectly cooked, these little delights are worth the trip
Hub in St Kilda with other established food bloggers and it was an
alone. The lemon spread creates this incredible zing and the creamy
opportunity not to be missed. Putting faces to much loved food blogs
honey seemed like it was whipped to give it that extra smooth and rich
certainly had Miss SL upbeat.
flavour. Yum!
When we finally arrived it was easy to spot the table full of bloggers –
Hub sources its beans from Genovese. We’re used to our Genovese
the Nikon cameras were out and everyone was huddled in nice and close
coffees being served slightly burned and bitter – and our coffee
on a communal table. One of the first things we noticed about Hub was
exhibited neither of these traits. It was surprisingly really, really good.
how intimate the environment was. The interior was really warm with
Our coffees were sweet, full of flavour and very drinkable. They carried a
red brick walls and a small fireplace – perfect for winter. The decor was
lovely smooth taste that was very enjoyable.
mish-mashed and had cool artwork on the tables of pirate ships with little odes to café living, such as hanging pots and espresso portafilter
Next up was one of the specials: the Croque madam – ham, gruyere,
door handles. The layout was clever and you wouldn’t notice that the
bechamel and a fried egg [$15] to share. The first thing we noticed
café fronts their hotel arm, Urban Hotel.
about this dish was how incredible the bread was. Roger informed us that they sourced their bread from Zeally Bay Sourdough, all the way
Hub had only been open for two weeks when we went, and we have to
from Torquay. The crusts had a lovely crunch to them and the bread
admit that it certainly lifts the quality of the sometimes dated restaurants
was a buttery gold colour. The cheese was powerful, salty and delicious,
and cafés residing on Fitzroy Street. The general manager of Hub, Roger
although it did mask the flavours of the lovely ham a little.
7
The meals started pouring out onto the table and all we could smell was eggs
Lastly, out came our omelettes. Mr LB opted for the Grilled zucchini, feta,
and bacon.
spinach and basil omelette [$16] and Miss SL went for the Chorizo, roast capsicum and potato omelette [$16].
First out was the Brioche French toast with caramelised apples and mascarpone Mr LB: “I love omelettes, so much to say that after having a big Friday night out
cream [$16]. It looked incredible and we were both instantaneously jealous.
you will usually see me in the kitchen whipping up an omelette as my evening snack. Friday night omelette had turned into an early Saturday morning and
TO KICK OFF WE WERE SERVED WITH TWO SHARE PLATES OF THE HOUSE MADE CRUMPETS WITH LEMON AND CREAMED HONEY [$9.50] WITH OUR COFFEES. A NORMAL SERVE WOULD SEE YOU WITH TWO CRUMPETS, PERFECTLY MADE. WE’RE GOING TO PUT IT OUT THERE – THESE ARE THE BEST CRUMPETS WE’VE EVER HAD.
it sure looked good. I cut into my omelette and inside the veggies looked well prepared and had a great fresh taste. The basil was cooked inside the omelette which released a lovely taste, perfectly complementing the feta. It was an all round success and the chutney certainly made my day.” Miss SL: “My omelette came out and it was packed full of goodies. As I excitedly tried the chorizo I have to admit I was very slightly disappointed and this was only because the weekend before I’d tried Hawk & Hunter’s chorizo which had an incredibly smokey taste to it. The rest of the omelette was perfectly made – the potatoes were golden brown and soft, and the capsicum deliciously
As our coffees were all done by this point we were offered their Freshly
juicy. The egg itself was well-crafted and enveloped all the ingredients like a
squeezed sunrise juice – orange, apple and pineapple [$6.50]. The
gentle pillowcase. Overall it was an extremely filling meal, made more so with
presentation in little glass bottles was gorgeous and the juice was light, fluffy
the appetisers we’d had beforehand.”
and refreshing. Hub is a breath of fresh air to the café scene on their end of Fitzroy street. Next up was the Avocado crushed, vine ripened tomato and feta on toast
Made with love and community spirit, the passion of this café is well-reflected
[$16]. It looked really lovely and fresh.
in the quality of its food. Hub is worth traveling for and when you go, don’t pass up the opportunity to try their crumpets.
The Cinnamon porridge, caramelised pears and oat crumble [$9.50] was next Final Thought: “Best crumpets in Melbourne”
out and it looked really delicious.
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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON CAMPARI HOUSE (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
10
CAMPARI HOUSE 23-25 Hardware Lane, Melbourne. Ph: 9600 1574 Words and photos by Ms I-Hua
ABOUT MS I-HUA A HR professional who enjoys living in Melbourne and spends a lot of her time trying SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE
not to let life get the better of her. This blog is mostly about food…with a bit of travelling, concerts, books, movies and occasional writing thrown in.
(DETAILS ON PG. 3)
WWW.MSIHUA.COM
When I first heard the words Campari House, my mind immediately went to,
Together with Sporkette, Mr Spork (Not sure if he is a closet Trekkie,
“It’s an alcoholic hole!”
but oh well) and the Boy, the four of us paid a little visit to Campari House last Thursday.
FYI, Campari is an alcoholic aperitif. While Sporkette went with a red wine, the three of us went with whites. Upon realising that it was a name of a restaurant and not a boozy den for Sporkette had the Chapel Hill Sangiovese 2009 (McLaren Vale, SA) and I had
alcoholics, I calmed down and made a mental note to pay it a visit one day.
the Opawa Pinot Gris 2010 (Marlborough, NZ). The one day came soon enough in a form of an invite. It’s like my telepathy The boys had a Chardonnay (forgive me as I completely did not pay attention
powers have grown stronger!
to their wines, and thus have no recollection of the region it came from. My bad!).
*letmewinonebilliononebilliononemillion**onehundredthousand* *onethousand* *onehundred?*
For starters, the Boy and I shared the Spiced Calamari, Mint, Citrus, Chilli and Aioli ($17.00) while the Spork Couple shared the Panko Crumbed Prawns
Hmmm… I guess it only works with food.
with Wasabi Mayo Dressing (from the Chef’s two-course Special). Hot on the Campari House is a two course meal with a matched wine for $45, All four of us enjoyed our starters very much.
which was the deal that we were invited to try out.
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Upon Mr Spork’s recommendation, I ordered the Blue Swimmer Crab,
As we didn’t want to end on too heavy a note, both Sporkette and I ordered
Spaghetti, Lemon, Chilli, Herbs ($26.00) and didn’t regret it one bit. He’s had
quite light and refreshing desserts.
it a few times before on different visits and rated it highly. Vanilla Panacotta, Pistachio, Black Cherries ($12.00) and Candied Lemon Tart, I couldn’t help but agree. The crab was just lovely and light. Dish was overall
Confit of Berries ($10.00).
flavourful. Definitely a dish I would go back for. While I truly enjoyed my first dining experience at Campari House (I’d only The Boy had a truly lovely Crispy Pork Belly, Sticky Cider, Caramelised Apple
been there for drinks previously), I probably can’t say the same for Mr Spork
Puree, Radish, Mint Salad ($25.00). When it arrived, I had my doubts as the
and his overdone porterhouse.
crackling didn’t look all too exciting. However, I do highly recommend the pork belly and the crab spaghetti dish. But when I stole a piece (or two), the crackling was just divine. It had crunch, it had texture and it had taste.
[Ms I-Hua dined as a guest of Campari House and The Publican Group Australia]
Unfortunately, Mr Spork wasn’t having mutual feelings of love for his main. He had ordered the chef’s special of 250g Porterhouse with Asparagus and
*Disclaimer: All food ratings & review are purely based on my own experiences
Red Wine Jus.
and how I feel about the service, food and quality at the time of visit.
He had asked for a medium rare, but what arrived instead was a bit on the
Food/Cuisine: Italian
well done side. Other than that, the dish definitely looked appetising. Dining Style: Restaurant Sporkette had a delicious Veal Medallion, Grilled Polenta, Pepponata, Burnt Butter, Sage ($26.00) which she seemed to quite enjoy.
Opening Hours: Monday to Friday: 8:00am – late
We were definitely filling up by this stage, and luckily had planned in advance
Saturday: 9:00am – late
to share our desserts.
Sunday: 9:00am – 2:00pm
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RECIPE: GIANT RIGATONI, HEIRLOOM CARROT AND WHITE CABBAGE BAKE Recipe and photo by Finger, Fork and Knife
ABOUT FINGER, FORK AND KNIFE I’m Kate and Finger, Fork and Knife is where I record the recipes that SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE
excite, nourish and inspire me. I eat to live and live to eat and most of all I love to share my love of wholesome, natural ingredients, as well as my passion for food photography and styling.
(DETAILS ON PG. 3)
WWW.FINGERFORKKNIFE.WORDPRESS.COM
Baked pasta dishes almost always follow the same script. They usually
METHOD
feature pasta, some sort of filling and more cheese than any one person should consume in one sitting. I know, I know… the cheese is what makes
Preheat oven to 180°C.
you want to dive right back in for seconds, but really, who wants to eat
Put a large saucepan of water on to boil. Salt the water and add the pasta.
something so heavy that it lulls you into a food-coma… immediately?
Cook according to the instructions on the packet.
There are ways to lighten things up a little and still get the same pleasure
While the pasta is cooking, combine the olive oil, lemon juice, salt and
from a fork-full of oven-browned Parmesan crusted pasta. In this case, I
onion in a small mixing bowl. Mix and set aside.
tossed giant tubes of rigatoni pasta in yoghurt and Parmesan. In keeping
In a large pan over medium-high heat, toss the carrots with a dash of olive
with the season I used beautiful heirloom carrots from the market and
oil. Let them cook gently in a single layer. Toss gently every so often and
white cabbage to give the dish colour and sweetness; finished off with a
cook until the carrots begin to caramalise – approx 10 minutes.
grating of beautiful local Parmesan before baking until golden.
Add the cabbage and toss with the carrots until wilted slightly. If you need to add a little more oil to the pan – do so, alternatively you can add a dash
Serves 2
of vegetable or chicken stock to help the wilting process. Transfer carrot and cabbage mixture to a large mixing bowl, drizzle with honey and pour
INGREDIENTS
¾ of the lemon-olive oil mixture over the top. Stir gently to combine and let sit for 5-10 minutes.
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
Check your pasta. If cooked, drain it and return the pasta to the pan you
3 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
cooked it in.
¼ tsp sea salt
Add the yoghurt and Parmesan to the carrot mixture, stir to combine and
½ red onion, finely sliced
season to taste.
2 cups sliced heirloom carrots, cut on the diagonal (regular carrots
Pour this mixture back over the drained pasta. Add the spinach and toss
are fine)
gently once again.
2 cups roughly chopped white cabbage
Scoop everything into a prepared baking dish, grate over some extra
1½ tbsp of honey or brown sugar
Parmesan cheese and pop into the oven to bake for 20-25 minutes, or
2 cups spinach leaves
until the cheese on top has melted and turned a gorgeous golden colour.
Basil leaves, for garnish
Remove from oven, sprinkle with a few basil leaves and serve.
1 cup Parmesan, plus extra for finishing ½ cup plain thick Greek yoghurt Sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 1½ cups dry large rigatoni pasta
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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON mixed business (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
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Mixed Business 486 Queens Parade, Clifton Hill. Ph: 9486 1606 Words and photos by Lauren Bruce
About Lauren bruce Lauren is a communications crusader by day and passionate foodie by night, exploring SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE
Melbourne’s cuisine hotspots like a proverbial hotspot explorer. She blogs mainly on food but also fashion, travel and sometimes more food.
(DETAILS ON PG. 3)
www.laurendarcybruce.wordpress.com
Is there anything more beautiful than a properly poached egg?
eggs. But not just any eggs. This isn’t your standard overcooked eggs benny and scrambled eggs with fetta menu. The Mixed Business repertoire includes
Hey dudes! Long time no posts. I think I’m still getting over my jet lag due to
the ploughman’s breakfast – an egg accompanied by pork rillette (sweet
a most unfortunate flight delay resulting in an impromptu overnight stay in
moses, a heavenly foodstuff I thought I would never come across again),
London. But four flights and five airports later, I am finally back in Melbourne,
delicious omelettes of the day that never disappoint and their poached eggs
reduced to the undignified confines of the daily grind. Ah well, back to
accompanied by everything you could want or need – minute steak, smoked
spending all my money in my tireless search for the perfect poached egg on
salmon and crème fraiche, homemade baked beans, potato rosti, pancetta,
a weekend morn.
roasted tomatoes… the list is almost endless.
Time and time again, Mixed Business in Clifton Hill comes pretty damn close
But the stars in these dishes are the eggs. Poached eggs are difficult to get
in this endeavour. But I’m getting ahead of myself. Let me give you a little
right at the best of times – yolk too hard or not cooked enough, or the white
context.
has fallen apart and you’re left with a sloppy slimy mess on your soggied toast. This is never an issue at Mixed Business – Always a firm white, with
Upon leaving my previous digs in South Yarra, I was loath to leave my favourite
a thin lining of barely cooked yolk encasing the runny yolky cholesteroly
consistently excellent coffee and breakfast joint, Dukes, behind. I really didn’t
goodness that trumps any condiment.
think I would find a breakfast dish that rivaled their exceptional poached eggs with dukkah, avocado hummus and candied pork (more on Dukes in a
So with the poached egg confidence, good coffee, attentive service and
later post, should I ever venture to the south side of the Yarra again).
charming shabby minimalist chic of the décor combined, I really can’t think of any better way to spend your Sunday morning. Unless you’re on a five
Thankfully, five minutes away from my new abode, Queens Parade boasts
week holiday and you’re breakfasting in a chateau in the south of France…
an establishment with excellent coffee, atmosphere and above all, all day
but now I’m torturing myself.
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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON common galaxia (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
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Common Galaxia Shop 3, 130 Victoria Street, Seddon. Ph: 9689 0309 Words and photos by Mise en Bèan
About Chris Karageorge I am a Melbourne-based teacher by day and a writer and coffee appreciator by night. SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE
Whenever I get the chance I love discovering new cafés, drinking coffee as robust as wine and writing about the places that are worthy of a second helping.
www.miseenbean.tumblr.com
(DETAILS ON PG. 3)
When I heard about the name of this place and saw the logo I thought
Espresso: Market Lane, Brazil Paraiso
the name had something to do with Space Invaders or Galaga (this is
You can’t go wrong with creamy cocoa flavours that are supported with
where my mind goes most of the time – video games), but it is the name
hazelnuts. This sticks to your tongue and mouth and massages your
of a type of fish.
buds. Amazing.
Of course there is more to Common Galaxia than a cool name, the
Avocado on pumpkin toast
dynamic duo behind Deadman Espresso are also behind Common
I’ve lost count of how many avocado on toast dishes I’ve had, so
Galaxia. To be honest, the first time I went to Deadman Espresso I didn’t
much so that my mum is like… “Really? Avocado on toast again?” But
fully appreciate it, on reflection they are pretty damn good. It’s like this,
this was great. Smashed chickpeas, pomegranate, chevre, pistachios,
good people know what they’re doing – a new setup, making an area
radish. Oh!
like Seddon a ‘coffee-go-to-area’ can’t go wrong. Don’t do anything silly like read the Urbanspoon reviews, good grief, A ‘coffee-go-to-area’, yeah I’m going to sound snobby with that
imagine kicking up a stink because they are cash only, or because they
comment…oh well!
won’t split the bill. Come here please.
So what does this Common Galaxia have? Coffee by Seven Seeds, guest
Opening hours
coffee by Market Lane, pour over by Proud Mary. Baked egg dishes
Tuesday to Friday: 7am-4pm
(that’s right, more than one), Smorrebrod (Google it) and a whole bunch
Sunday to Saturday: 8am-4pm
of flavoursome takes and varieties on breakfast dishes we all love.
Kitchen closes at 3pm
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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON the parlor milk bar & kitchen (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
The Parlor Milk Bar & Kitchen 40 Weatherall Road, Cheltenham. Ph: 9515 4514 Words and photos by Judging Your Breakfast
About Judging Your Breakfast Judging Your Breakfast team Anna Spargo-Ryan and Robyn Box put themselves and their tastebuds on the line every week to judge Melbourne’s best and worst breakfasts. They draw on their love of food and writing to leave no breakfast stone unturned in this great city of ours.
SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
www.judgingyourbreakfast.com
Occasionally I go somewhere for breakfast and immediately feel more
like going home to see your parents, if they were tasteful and elegant
beautiful and more relaxed just for being there. Parlor Milk Bar & Kitchen
French people.
is one such place, and not just because the name itself is so darling. It’s a combination of, well, everything about it – the provincial decor, the
We were very lucky to get a table. It was a warm, windy morning and
perpetual smell of baking, the shuttered windows and the open fire. It’s
most of the Sandringham/Beaumaris area had the same thought as we
22
did. A loud, sticky family evacuated the only table for six on the deck
and comprehensive, with all of the current Melbourne trends featured:
just as we arrived, and we shoved ourselves into it even though it meant
corn fritters, rosti stacks, baked eggs and pork belly. I decided after
we ended up covered in a fine layer of maple syrup. Note to others:
exactly no seconds of deliberation that I would have an Ahoy there,
children under the age of five don’t “eat” pancakes as much as they
partly because it has all my favourite things in it and partly so I could
“paint with” pancakes.
say “Ahoy there!” to the waitress and embarrass my family.
After I had finished crying because I’d spent 29 years of my life not at Parlor Milk Bar & Kitchen, I decided to look at the menu. It is varied and comprehensive, with all of the current Melbourne trends featured: corn fritters, rosti stacks, baked eggs and pork belly.
Hells bells, this breakfast was to die for. The rosti was crunchy on the outside but soft and sweet on the inside. The avocado salsa came complete with corn kernels and a hint of Mexicana and it took a great deal of willpower not to smear it on the insides of my cheeks for later. The hollandaise was eggy and tart, like my sister. And the eggs flowed like rivers of heaven. They were so rich in colour as to resemble orange juice and actually tasted like eggs. I spread that yolky goodness all over my served-at-room-temperature smoked salmon and jumped for joy between mouthfuls.
Because Parlor Milk Bar & Kitchen is essentially a windswept beachside cottage filled with magical elves, paper and crayons arrived at our table. The girls drew their usual fantastical pictures – unicorns and ghosts – while the adults breathed deeply and ordered tea. The location, across from the Victoria Golf Club, is so picturesque that you could be forgiven for forgetting to go to work because you now think you live inside
Hells bells, this breakfast was to die for. The rosti was crunchy on the outside but soft and sweet on the inside.
a painting. Things to note: dogs aren’t allowed on the deck, so you’ll have to leave After I had finished crying because I’d spent 29 years of my life not
them at home or tie them up out the front. My kids had the pancakes
at Parlor Milk Bar & Kitchen, I decided to look at the menu. It is varied
(they’re older, so they didn’t paint with them) and looked enraptured.
23
RESTAURANT
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Deadman Espresso 35 Market Street, South Melbourne. Ph: 9686 2255 Words and photos by Libby Margo
About Libby Margo Libby is a lover of all things nice (foie gras, truffles and Dr Loosen Riesling) and all things downright nasty (chickenflavoured potato chips, Costco hot dogs and Stella Artois). When she is not thinking of, blogging about and eating food, she is working as an office clerk, studying law, wasting time on Supercoach and dreaming about sojourns to Echo Beach (Daylesford is usually fine by her though).
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www.theveryveryhungrycaterpillar.com
Sunday is my only ‘free’ day in which I don’t have to do any sort of work. If
a table had freed up – hah! I wouldn’t have minded sitting in the little
I’m not at the gym, I’m sleeping in until 2pm. If I’m not catching up on my
outdoor sitting area to soak up the sun’s rays or even the communal table
TV shows and baking cookies, I’m catching up with friends or spending
in the middle of the room so I could squeeze shoulders with cute tall
time with family. Occasionally, I will go to the footy but I’m an Essendon
locals, but the somewhat cramp-y corner table we managed to squeeze
supporter and not much needs to be said about that at the moment *buries
into was fine.
head in hands*. On this particular Sunday, I was in South Melbourne with
Both Jen and I chose the default house blend for our coffees, a Seven
Jen for a spot of brunch at Dead Man Espresso, grocery shopping at the
Seeds espresso blend made with beans from Nicaragua (36%), Brazil (36%)
market, stalking the house that came out on top in The Block, finished off
and Panama (28%). I liked that they were so precise with their figures but
by some sweets at Chez Dre. I will eventually write about the couple of
wondered why Panama got the short end of the stick – I’m sure they have
times I’ve been to Chez Dre (both times with Jen) but for now, let’s travel
a good explanation though. While Jen had opted for a cappuccino, I had a
to the land of the Dead.
latte. The coffee was beautiful with lovely maple notes – it had the depth and sweetness that I expected from a place that consistently gets stars in
Once upon a time, Melbourne and its surroundings were full of gold so
The Age Cheap Eats guide.
immigrants from all over the world migrated to this part of the world hoping to strike it rich. These hopeful immigrants set up makeshift communities
DME’s food is also fantastic. Their menu is all about reducing food miles,
by the Yarra and one such community was called Canvas Town due to
growing what they can in-house and sourcing other produce from local
the canvas sheets that provided shelter from the elements for these folk.
suppliers. They grow their own herbs in their garden and their honey comes
Of course, gold-diggers those days had to put in more hard yakka than
from their rooftop, while meat is sourced from local gems such as Istra
merely making themselves look pretty with make-up and putting on six
Smallgoods and Hook & Spoon Mutton.
inch stilettos, so you can imagine how battered their bodies and their minds were. Some even died, hence the name Dead Man Espresso.
I had the herb and potato rosti with poached egg, avocado and Istra bacon ($21). If you’re not a fan of bacon (and let’s be honest here, who isn’t?), then
It is, however, a livelier story every Sunday afternoon at DME, where old
you can go with the salmon instead. However, any sane carnivore would be
Canvas Town once stood. The atmosphere is warm thanks to the winter
crazy not to say ‘yes’ to these crispy strips of bacon.
sun and the beautiful and friendly people both working and chilling at the café, which is packed to the rafters. Jen and I had arranged to meet at 1pm
I really couldn’t fault this meal. The herb and potato rosti, not the bacon,
but for some reason, she got the time wrong and rocked up at 12:30pm
was surprisingly the highlight of this meal – not only was it generously sized
instead. There was a half an hour wait for a table when she rocked up, so
(more carbs to provide sustenance for the rest of the day), but it was also
she sat outside on her lonesome and by the time I sauntered in at 1pm,
very fluffy on the inside with flecks of rosemary to give it a bit of character.
27
DME’s spin on the classic BLT sandwich involved a slab of pork belly and spinach puree on brioche with gazpacho on the side. It was incredible. I loved the spinach puree, so soft and delicious that you almost forgot you were eating something so healthy.
The pork belly, however, was the star. The meat was naturally sweet and
Meanwhile, the avocado and beautifully poached egg provided a lovely
their famed filter coffees ($4.50). The beans they used on the day were
dosage of good fats and protein respectively.
from special guests Market Lane with their beans from Nyakizu in Rwanda.
oh-so-tender and the skin was so delectably crispy, with a joyously squishy layer of fat running in between. Amazing. The only downside of Jen’s meal was the small glass of gazpacho which both of us thought added nothing to the dish (‘tastes like a watered-down relish,’ Jen remarked) so that was left untouched. I’m not normally one to drink more than one cup of coffee in a day but because I enjoyed my latte so much, I couldn’t leave DME without trying
According to the description on the board, you were supposed to taste I thought I had it good with my rosti but Jen’s BLT ($16.50) made my meal
‘floral, pineapple, apricot, butterscotch’ flavours. At first sip, however, I
seem very James Magnussen in comparison (the just-missed-out-on-first-
couldn’t really taste any of those notes so I felt chump-y and inadequate –
place-by-a-chest-hair aspect, not the stupid doucebaggery-ness aspect).
wah! Once, my taste buds got better acquainted, however, I could then taste
DME’s spin on the classic BLT sandwich involved a slab of pork belly and
the tangy apricot notes and even a bit of butter (oooh is that butterscotch?).
spinach puree on brioche with gazpacho on the side. The service might have been a bit frazzled but hey, this was Sunday It was incredible. I loved the spinach puree, so soft and delicious that you
afternoon. Both Jen and I enjoyed our lunch, promising ourselves that we’d
almost forgot you were eating something so healthy. It worked well against
bring our partners here at some point down the track. Surprisingly, my two
the backdrop of the crunchy toasted brioche bread that was wonderfully
cups of coffee did not get me wired for as soon as I got home, I crashed
sweet and buttery, thus negating the fact that spinach is healthy (because
tummy-first onto my warm bed and was dead to the world for the next
all healthy food tastes terrible, right?).
couple of hours.
29
wine reviews Words and photos by Krystina Menegazzo
ABOUT KRYSTINA MENEGAZZO La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who completed her winemaking degree whilst being a gypsy working in vintages throughout Australia and Italy. Finally she decided to return home and sell wine instead. In her spare time she cooks, eats, drinks buon vino and is a self-
SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).
www.ladonnadelvino.com
Spring has arrived and brought with it welcome bursts of sunshine. Keeping
an aperitif or suits a delicate cuisine, like that of Golden Fields when I first
in line with the season, I thought I would write about three different styles of
tasted it. Prepare yourself to be captured by bursts of taut sparkling beads,
wine where each bottle bursts open in a shower of beads.
aromas of brioche, red fruits, and spices like cinnamon and vanilla, and a bright palate that finishes with a dry lemon line.
CLOVER HILL Sparkling 2007
After meeting the charming Jean-François Clouet over lunch, I came to the
Pipers River, Tasmania. RRP $45.00
realisation that I should be drinking Champagne more often. While it may
Clover Hill is crafted by the Sparkling Queen, Karina Dambergs. I am
have been a combination of the French accent and the wine playing havoc
confident she will not mind me bestowing that title upon her given that she
on my brain, I am now in wholehearted agreement with French historian,
works as the chief sparkling winemaker for the Clover Hill Estate in Tasmania
Geneviève Dévignes, who once proclaimed, “Champagne! Hail to the corks
and Taltarni in Victoria. With a background in chemical engineering, Ms
that fly up to the ceiling!”
Dambergs found the pull of the wine world too strong to ignore. She now finds
Stockist: Selling for only $50 at the Prince Wine Store, South Melbourne
herself producing wonderful wines using the classic grapes of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in what is called methode champenoise. This
LINI910 Lambrusco Rosso ‘Lambrusca’ NV
traditional method is used by the great makers of Champagne whereby the
Correggio, Emilia Romagna. RRP $19.00
secondary fermentation (the one that actually makes the bubbles) takes
The Lini family has had four generations of practice when it comes to
place within the bottle and not inside a tank. Following this, the spent yeast
making Lambrusco. They started way back in 1910 in a little village called
stays in contact with the wine for a further three years before the sediment
Correggio found in the northern region of Emilia Romagna, Italy. Observing
is removed. The result is a straw golden wine that pours into the glass with
the Godfather-like labeling on the bottle, I vividly ponder what other stories
a delicate and lasting creamy bead. The aromas burst forth as a complex
the Lini family may have to tell. However, I put my wild imagination to rest
mixture of juicy red apples, golden wattle and oyster shell. The flavours and
and conclude that this really does not matter…because what they have
mouth-feel are rich from the extended time on lees in the bottle and provide
provided is a bottle of nostalgia. I grew up in a family of Italian descent
characters ranging from fresh dough to rich broth. It has acidity in the less
and can fondly recall the days spent drinking Lambrusco in a glass tumbler
tart spectrum, and a poised almond praline and acacia honey finish. It is
alongside my father for lunch. In fact, the first wine I tasted as a child was
definitely one of Australia’s finer sparkling wines.
Lambrusco from a cask that was topped up with water. The Lambrusco haze
Stockists: Purvis Cellars in Surrey Hills and Armadale Cellars.
left me with a mixture of sweet, fizzy, red memories. Like any wine that is made nowadays, Lambrusco can come in a variety of
ANDRÉ CLOUET Grande Reserve Brut Champagne NV
styles, from the overtly sweet to the less commonly dry. The commercial,
Bouzy, Champagne, France. RRP $70.00
high-volume styles of the ’80s and ’90s are nothing like the savoury styles
A number of months ago the mischievous and playful Jean-François Clouet
that are making a comeback today. The Lini910 is made from 85% Salamino
popped in from France to show Australia his family’s gorgeous Champagnes.
and 15% Ancellotta grapes and undergoes a long and slow fermentation
This Frenchman is the chef de cave (Champagne winemaker) for the small
that lasts three to four months. This has given the dark cherry-coloured
grower producer called André Clouet. The vineyard where the wine is
Lambrusco a light, creamy fizz and a nose of black cherries, sarsaparilla,
produced is located in the highly regarded Bouzy area of the Champagne
stewed blackberries and a touch of black olive savouriness. It has a light
appellation. This is where the Pinot Noir grape shines and thus André Clouet
entry with a hint of sweetness but finishes dry with a fine, blackcurrant
is regarded as somewhat of a specialist in the area.
flavour. Sharing this bottle with my father on Father’s Day brought some
The Grande Reserve Brut is made from 100% of the Pinot Noir grape and is
wonderful memories flooding back. This dry, refreshing style blows the old
cellared for six years on the yeast in bottle under the family’s 17th century
sweet cask Lambruscos right out of the water.
village house. This is a richer style of Champagne, but lends itself well as
Stockist: Available online at vinoitaliano.com.au
31
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