GRAM Magazine: February 2013 // Edition 25 by GRAM Magazine

MELBOURNE

ISSUE 25

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Gram magazine is a free monthly publication

Melbourne strips and venues in Melbourne’s CBD and inner city

dedicated to promoting this exciting and

suburbs, our readers can enjoy the magazine over a meal, a coffee,

diverse food culture that Melbourne has

a drink or a snack.

become renowned for.

And while the author of each featured blog has their own unique

Each issue of Gram features a compilation

style and flair, one thing that remains constant is that they all seek

of food and drink based blogs that have

to put a positive spin on Melbourne’s food and drink scene.

been taken from the blogosphere and

We thank all the bloggers that have been involved in this issue and

published in magazine format for our

look forward to continuing to grow our relationship with members

readers to enjoy. By utilising Microsoft® Tag

of the blogging community.

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This month

media platforms.

It’s tomato season, and that means it’s the perfect time to make

Gram magazine provides you with a snapshot of articles, opinions

your own passata at home. This month, check out reviews of

and reviews that have been published online by local food

Goldilocks, Claypots, Shawcross Pizza, Jaques Raymond, St Ali

bloggers, bringing the online world into the physical world.

North and much more.

Danielle Gullaci, Editor

As the magazine is distributed to over 1000 outlets in prominent GRAM is Food Culture. Compiled. melbourne.gram.net.au

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From time to time we’ll add additional links, stories and giveaways on our Facebook and Twitter sites. Follow us and stay up to date with the odds and ends about eating and drinking in Melbourne. Gram magazine is owned by Prime Creative Media and published by John Murphy. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content. Editor: Danielle Gullaci Email: danielle.gullaci@primecreative.com.au Group Sales Manager: Brad Buchanan Phone: 0413 672 403 Email: brad.buchanan@primecreative.com.au

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Goldilocks Stanley Place (rear of Firechief Pizzeria) , Hawthorn East. Ph: 9831 1799 Words and photos by Judging Your Breakfast

About Judging Your Breakfast Judging Your Breakfast team Anna Spargo-Ryan and Robyn Box put themselves and their tastebuds on the line every week to judge Melbourne’s best and worst breakfasts. They draw on their love of food and writing to leave no breakfast stone unturned in this great city of ours.

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www.judgingyourbreakfast.com

I’m just going to come right out and say it: these are the best poached

Pizzeria which is sort of diagonally opposite the Rivoli Cinemas. But it’s not

eggs I’ve had – anywhere – to date. I’ve been to Goldilocks three times now,

signposted by name – all you’ll see is ‘Café’ and a yellow door. Use your

because the first time I went I didn’t believe they were real, and the second

looking eyes.

time I went I didn’t take any photos, but the third time I went everything was

Goldilocks is hard to find. It’s off Camberwell Road in a kind of alleyway, behind Firechief Pizzeria... But it’s not signposted by name – all you’ll see is ‘Café’ and a yellow door. Use your looking eyes.

just right. There are two things I truly love in this life: the knowledge that one day Ryan Reynolds may rub his manly body all over me and a good poached egg. To that end, I today returned to Goldilocks for the third time in as many weeks. Unfortunately Ryan stood me up, but the eggs did not. I don’t even know

The service at Goldilocks has been excellent each time I’ve visited. It is light

what that means. I’m delirious with egg yolk.

and spacious and not too noisy, and there is a cabinet filled with Little Bertha Before I get carried away (and I will), a few bits of housekeeping. Goldilocks

cakes and slices. My only gripe might be that the toilet is very close to the

is hard to find. It’s off Camberwell Road in a kind of alleyway, behind Firechief

eating area.

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But onto the show stealer…

The poached egg comes covered in the thinnest possible membrane – just enough white to keep it from falling off. That’s how it’s presented, just like

It turns out that over the course of writing this blog – and sampling many,

that with all its clothes off.

many breakfasts – I have become something of an egg yolk addict. And when I say ‘something’ I mean ‘completely’. On the days I choose Special K instead,

I looked at it and thought I knew what to expect. I thought that if I prodded

I am jittery and in many ways incomprehensible. I walk around the office

it with my knife it would explode like a man who’s been on a deserted island

shouting ‘overcooked’ at colleagues, before bursting into tears.

for 40 years and go running down the sides and under the bread and into the avocado mash and I’d have to lick it up with my literal tongue. But it wasn’t

Goldilocks is one of the few places I’ve been to in Melbourne that does a sous vide poached egg. That basically means it’s vacuum sealed and cooked slowly in a water bath at moderate heat.

like that at all. All I can compare it to is lemon curd. You know how it’s soft and buttery but also kind of solid? That’s what this is like. It’s not cooked, like a boiled egg, but it’s no longer runny. You can pick it up with your knife and spread it on your bread like jam. Except instead of stupid fruit and sugar, it is the best food in the known universe. And you can just spread it around – on your face, on your body, on the waiter. The way it folds open just invites the kind of lewd

So although I looked and looked and looked at that menu (and it’s a good

inappropriateness you might expect from a lesser breakfast judger.

one) I just couldn’t bring myself to order anything else. Needless to say, I ate that bastard like nothing I’ve eaten before, and at the Goldilocks is one of the few places I’ve been to in Melbourne that does a

end I wept at the feet of the Gods.

sous vide poached egg. That basically means it’s vacuum sealed and cooked slowly in a water bath at moderate heat (Goldilocks calls it the 62.5°C sous

My breakfast associate had Panko crumbed eggs with miso and some kind

vide poached egg). Because I am Heston Blumenthal, I know that this means

of greenery. Phallic symbol jokes aside, they broke open like angels’ balls and

the egg is completely different from one that is cooked in boiling water and

cracked and crunched like cheese supreme Doritos. He highly recommends

vinegar. Completely. Different.

that you eat them.

TAMAL DE HUITLACOCHE Y CALABAZIN CON SALSA DE ARBOL HUITLACOCHE & ZUCCHINI TAMALE WITH ARBOL SALSA BY CHEF- SCOTT EDDINGTON Level 1, 11 Collins Street, Melbourne, 3000.

WWW.MAMASITA.COM.AU

For the tamale dough (makes 10 portions)

the mushrooms, corn and zucchini, and

INGREDIENTS

cook until tender. Add huitlacoche and cook

Kitchen aid mixers. All colours available from $699

out for another 2 minutes. Season with salt, 225g white masa flour

pepper and epazote. Finish with parsley.

2.6L hot vegetable stock 2g baking powder

For the arbol salsa

7g salt

INGREDIENTS

90g pork fat 10 arbol chillies METHOD

Avanti singles grill pans $7.95

1kg tomatoes 2 garlic cloves

Mix flour, salt and baking powder together.

1 tbsp cider vinegar

Add the stock and mix by hand to form a

2 tsp dried oregano

smooth dough. Whip pork fat until fluffy

1 brown onion

using an electric mixer, for around 10

2L water

minutes. Add masa dough to the pork fat, a

Salt to taste

little at a time. Continue to whip on second speed until white and fluffy. This should

METHOD

take around 10 minutes. Lightly toast chillies and set aside. Remove For the huitlacoche

the eyes from the tomatoes and blacken

INGREDIENTS

on a char grill. SautĂŠ the onions, garlic and oregano in a large pot. Add the chillies and

1 brown onion

tomatoes, then cover with water. Bring to

300g field mushrooms

the boil and cook for 10 minutes. Blitz with

50g corn kernels

a blender and season to taste.

Stock pots in every size from $39.95

100g zucchini 1 tbsp ground epazote

To make the tamale

100g huitlacoche (blitzed)

Spread 100g of dough onto a corn husk,

Salt and pepper

ensuring it is as thin as possible. Add

50g parsley

80g of the huitlacoche mix in a line in the centre, then fold the corn husk around the

METHOD

mix, ensuring no filling is is exposed. Wrap in foil and steam for 1 hour.

Chop and sautĂŠ the onion in a fry pan. Add

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Recipe: Scallop and fennel fettuccine Recipe and photo by Finger, Fork & Knife About Finger, Fork and Knife I’m Kate and Finger, Fork and Knife is where I record the recipes that excite, nourish and inspire me. I eat to live and live to eat and most of all I love to share my love of wholesome,

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natural ingredients, as well as my passion for food photography and styling.

www.fingerforkknife.wordpress.com

Sometimes a comforting bowl of pasta is all you need to make you smile.

Freshly ground black pepper

While I don’t eat a lot of pasta myself, there are times when I enjoy using pasta

Parmesan, for serving

as a sort of blank canvas that allows me to get creative with new flavours and textures. That’s what I did today and it I ended up with a beautiful, flavour-

Method

packed pasta dish. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Seared scallops sit on top of a twirled mound of fresh egg fettuccine that has

Pop the grapes on a baking tray and drizzle with a little olive oil. Place into

been tossed in a pan with chopped kale, garlic, fennel, toasted macadamia

the oven and roast for 20 or so minutes until nicely plump and juicy. Remove

nuts and roasted red grapes; finished off with an all-important squeeze of

from the oven and set aside.

lemon juice and a grating of Parmesan cheese.

Bring a saucepan of water to the boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente. While the pasta is cooking and the grapes are roasting, prepare the scallops.

Serves 4

Season the scallops with some salt and pepper. Heat a tablespoon or so of olive oil in a pan over high heat. Add the scallops

Ingredients

and cook for 2-3 minutes, or until browned on one side. Flip the scallops and cook on the underside for another 1-2 minutes (depending on their size).

400g fresh egg fettuccine

Remove from the pan and set aside on a plate.

20 scallops, roe removed

Using the same pan, cook the kale, fennel and garlic – adding a dash of water

2 cups red grapes, preferably a seedless variety

if needed – for approximately 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped

Add the pasta to the kale and fennel mixture and toss through. Squeeze in

1 fennel, thinly sliced (reserve some fennel fronds for garnish)

the lemon juice and grated zest. Add the macadamia nuts and grapes. Toss

3 cups kale, roughly chopped

gently to combine.

Juice and zest of 1 lemon

When ready to serve, divide the pasta between four plates and top with five

¼ cup macadamia nuts, lightly toasted

scallops. Garnish with some of the reserved fennel fronds and a grating of

Olive oil

Parmesan if you like.

Sea salt

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Claypots Corner Cecil and York Streets, South Melbourne. Ph: 9645 5779 213 Barkly Street, St Kilda. Ph: 9534 1282 Words and photos by Fatboo

ABOUT BRYAN I’m an inquisitive foodie with an Asian palate. I love how food brings people together. There is a story behind every meal and I’m constantly trying to find it. Please join my Melbourne-based food journey and let’s get fat together.

www.fatboo.com

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Claypots Evening Star (South Melbourne)

take my visiting folks to the South Melbourne branch and give that a

I think good seafood isn’t one of Melbourne’s strengths. I’ve dined

go. We’d just finished grocery shopping at South Melbourne Market that

at a number of seafood-focussed places, and they’re generally

afternoon, so having lunch here, at the market itself, was convenient.

unmemorable… except Claypots! It wasn’t too busy at lunch time that Saturday. Fit-out is vibrant and, I Normally, I’d go to Claypots in St Kilda. But this time round, I chose to

believe, quite Spanish… with bold red walls, coloured maritime tiles, and

KITCHEN

•

PANTRY

•

SCHOOL

Crock-en-Bush? a central feature bar where you can watch the cooking happen. The menu consists of tapas-style small dishes. Lunch started on a high with succulent, perfectly cooked scallops. The sauce was vinegary piquant with an Asian hint of sesame oil. Mum kept shaking her head, exclaiming “Wow!”. Equally loved were the legendary king prawns. A must-have at the St Kilda branch, I was happy to see this dish featured here too, although served a little differently. My folks were just stunned at how fresh, chargrilled and tasty these prawns were. The thing about Claypots is you’re able to get seafood straight-up. It’s cooked simply, grilled or pan-fried, with head, legs, shells, everything. And then the freshness of the seafood does the rest of the job. All that said, despite its sweet flesh, these grilled scampi were, according to dad, a little bit too ‘skimpy’ in the flesh department. Now you know where my bad blog puns come from. The clams were nicely cooked, but the lemony-gingery sauce was on the salty side, which made it not as great for dipping breads in. Overall, my folks were still blown away by this meal. It’s tapas style with smaller portions, casual counter seating, and friendly, easy-going service. A very nice experience.

The menu consists of tapas-style small dishes. Lunch started on a high with succulent, perfectly cooked scallops. The sauce was vinegary piquant with an Asian hint of sesame oil. Mum kept shaking her head, exclaiming “Wow!”.

CrOqUENbOUChE haNdS ON COOkING CLaSS Sat frOm 9 tO 12 fOr thE

mONth Of marCh

LImItEd NUmbEr bOOkINGS ESSENtIaL

SINGLE $195

COUPLE: $300

Claypots Seafood Bar (St Kilda) Three days later, I took my folks to Claypots’ mothership for lunch. That’s how much they enjoyed their previous meal at Evening Star. This place I’m a lot more familiar with. In terms of pointing out the differences between both places, I like how you automatically get a

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gets sourced for that day. And even the cooking-style of each dish varies every day, although the theme generally revolves around Asian ingredients cooked Mediterranean-style. But some dishes stay on the menu as stalwarts, like the glorious garlic

t:9322 4750 e: info@casabottega.com.au

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The menu changes on a daily basis, depending on what seafood gets sourced for that day. And even the cooking-style of each dish varies every day, although the theme generally revolves around Asian ingredients cooked Mediterranean-style.

that it’s very delicious and good value. And she wasn’t wrong, this dish was brilliant. For that afternoon, we got barramundi. It was chargrilled perfectly and then fried with a wonderful mix of Asian flavours, and served sitting on soft steamed rice with a serve of buk choy. Of course, dad got to eat all of the head, purportedly the best part. But there were other segments of fish, including tail, that were served in that dish. The three of us ate this dish with such absolute pleasure.

king prawns. In St Kilda, they’re served in a small wok, still bubbling in oil, with a generous serve of Turkish bread for you to dip into the

Previously, I’d stick with the shellfish dishes at Claypots. But that

amazing prawn oil.

afternoon has proven that even the fish dishes can be amazing. Claypots once again delivers, I look forward to revisiting either branch.

Lip-smacking crustaceous joy. Although mum did comment that South Melbourne’s prawns were cooked to a more chargrilled crisp than here. We also had a curiosity scallop each. The marinade tasted similar to Evening Star’s – tangy, beautiful. But I thought the flesh was a touch firmer (overcooked?) than our previous meals. Singaporeans love fish head. When I enquired about the fish head with soy, sesame and ginger, our waitress got excited too, explaining

Singaporeans love fish head. When I enquired about the fish head with soy, sesame and ginger, our waitress got excited too, explaining that it’s very delicious and good value. And she wasn’t wrong, this dish was brilliant.

Be Consumed

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Parlour Diner 64 Chapel Street, Windsor. Ph: 9533 2006 Words and photos by The Burger Adventure

About the burger adventure The Burger Adventure is a blog that reviews the best burgers from

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Australia and around the world. Created by four guys with a passion for beef, buns, cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, egg, bacon and sauce.

(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

www.theburgeradventure.com

Summary That’s right, Melbourne has another American-style diner. What separates this place from the other dozen Americana eateries around town is the subtleness of the dining area. Even though it gives nod to some old school American diner properties like the long bar, the stools, the table layout and

Even though it gives nod to some old school American diner properties... it still has that certain unique Melbourne café quality to it.

the open style kitchen, it still has that certain unique Melbourne café quality to it, whether it be the Asian style pork sliders that appear in the menu or the

coffee aroma that greets you at the door. We chose to smash the Parlour

fine china used in service, it all represents Melbourne’s multicultural casual

Burger that came with an 8 oz beef pattie, tomato, lettuce, cheese and

quirkiness. This of course is all backed by some great, friendly service and

pickles on a brioche bun.

What lied beneath was a thick, juicy, well seasoned beef pattie covered in perfectly melted cheese on a super soft and glistening sesame bun. Just a word of warning, there is a small and sharp skewer hiding, like a tree trunk holding up all those leaves. Comments

SCHWEPPES AGRUM COLLECTION CITRUS BLEND

D – This burger wasn’t exactly what I expected from these guys given the décor, menu and atmosphere of the diner. And, after a little tweaking I was a very happy camper. At most I enjoy a little bit of lettuce to add a bit of crunch and texture in a burger. I don’t actually want to taste all that greenery, so when presented with this much sharp and bitter flavour I promptly removed it. What lied beneath was a thick, juicy, well seasoned beef pattie covered in perfectly melted cheese

Harnessing the natural oils of grapefruits and a hint of mandarin, Schweppes Agrum Collection Citrus Blend has a fresh zesty finish crafted for the adult palate.

on a super soft and glistening sesame bun. Just a word of warning, there is a small and sharp skewer hiding, like a tree trunk holding up all those leaves. G – What I loved and hated about this burger was the imperfection of it. Like the pattie tasting great, but being overcooked. Great choice of bun, but cut unevenly leaving the base really thin. There was too much green stuff, but I loved the pickles. There is a trend here of good things working for this burger, but maybe lacking that extra bit of care that could really make it pop. Loved the curly fries though, no ifs or buts about that.

Although the pattie was thick and juicy, all that greenery almost made me think I was eating healthy for once. But it only took two more bites for that bull to poke its horns out of the forest and remind me I was eating a meaty and lovingly fatty hamburger. Z – This is a fresh, tasty summertime burger, especially when you couple it with some curly fries, onion rings and maybe even a milkshake. Although the pattie was thick and juicy, all that greenery almost made me think I was eating healthy for once. But it only took two more bites for that bull to poke its horns out of the forest and remind me I was eating a meaty and lovingly fatty hamburger. was because the burger was super balanced or they were drowned out by the amazon amount of lettuce I’m note sure. I’d definitely head back with a crew next time I’m around.

BURGER:

SERVIETTES:

DRESS CODE:

Parlour Burger

Smart Casual

SLEEPINESS:

WOULD WE RECOMMEND:

PRICE:

10 minutes

Definitely

$12

Schweppes, Devices and Agrum are trade marks used under licence in Australia by Schweppes Australia Pty Ltd.

Between it and the lettuce, I actually missed all the rest of the other ingredients. Whether this

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Shawcross Pizza 324 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy. Ph: 9419 9596 Words and photos by Poppet’s Window

Poppet’s Window I’m not the kind of gal who’s lost for words very often. When I’m not copywriting for clients or scribbling down feature stories, I’m eating. Sometimes I do both at the same time. By combining my passion for prose, my fascination with food and my fervour for photography, I hope to leave an impression on more than just your taste buds.

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www.poppetswindow.com

Opening hours: Weekdays 5pm until late; weekends 12pm until late.

easily seen embossed into the side of the building.

The boys from Phat Brats are back. Not that they really went anywhere. In the

Phat Brat’s notorious vegetarian co-owner, Matt John, is the brains behind

eight months since they’ve been open, Fitzroy’s favourite hotdog shop has

the design, courtesy of his studio (The Anatomy) and a recent overseas jaunt

made appearances all over town, from music festivals and exclusive launches

to the USA. Matt collaborated with Fixology to custom-make the furniture –

to special events and the People’s Market. But if you thought they were going

including the handsome timber and steel front counter – and TJ Sign Art &

to stop at sausages, think again.

Pinstriping to hand-paint the brickwork.

The Brat Pack opened Shawcross Pizza next door to Phat Brats just a few

Phat Brat’s other half, Executive Chef Damian Thompson, put together the

days before Christmas, alongside their new partner and front-of-house man

menu. Damian snagged pizza master Alessio Albano (who’s kneaded dough

Iza Dawkins (gentlemen, lock up your daughters. You have been warned).

in Melbourne’s best pizza kitchens, including D.O.C., 400 Gradi, Fire Chief

In less than five weeks, the Shawcross crew transformed a dirty old kebab

and +39) to show him how to perfect that all-important crust. There are 12

joint into a New York-style pizza place. The name is a nod to the building’s

inch whole pizzas, as well as giant $5 slices cooked in custom-made 22 inch

heritage, which dates back to 1900. During the day, the word ‘Shawcross’ is

pans. Evidently, size matters at Shawcross. If you’re a carb hater, there are

d o o W The

LAndS ho Te L

Come and see what’s happening in Coburg.

We have a range of over 70 Victorian craft beers rotating on tap and a Mauritian influenced menu prepared by awarded head chef Jocelyn Riviere. Let your mind wander as you sit in our stunning hard wood rustic front bar, indoor/ outdoor garden room or restaurant which is sure to remind you of your childhood...

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half a dozen “kick-ass salads”, although you’d be crazy to miss out on the nachos. Whatever, haters gonna hate. As for the pizzas, the Notorious P.I.G with pork sausage, bacon, jalapenos, mozzarella, BBQ sauce and onion is a gourmet take on your classic ‘meat lovers’. Then again, it’s hard to go past a good ol’ margherita, especially when it’s named after Fat Tony. The Mexicutioner has also been a top seller, piled with chorizo, mozzarella, spicy salsa, chilli and sour cream. Keep in mind

As for the pizzas, the Notorious P.I.G with pork sausage, bacon, jalapenos, mozzarella, BBQ sauce and onion is a gourmet take on your classic ‘meat lovers’. Then again, it’s hard to go past a good ol’ margherita, especially when it’s named after Fat Tony.

there are gluten-free and vegetarian options available too. Shawcross is the perfect spot for a quick and affordable meal, but that For the vegetarians, there’s the Ridgy-Didge with roast pumpkin, hummus,

doesn’t mean they stinge on quality. The ingredients are house-made or

goat’s cheese, mozzarella and green peas, as well as the Bloody Vegans with

local wherever possible, and you can taste the difference. Call ahead and

hummus, spinach, tomato, red onions, green olives and lemon.

order takeaway for a big night in, or sit outside with a brewski and watch the characters stream down Brunswick Street in moustaches, tattoos and their

If you’re not ready to break your New Year’s resolution just yet, try a roast

generally entertaining hipster aura. Shawcross is planning a delivery service

pumpkin, spinach, quinoa, pine nuts, goat’s cheese and cherry tomato

to be up and running by the end of the month. There’s even St Ali specialty

salad, or perhaps one with chicken, spinach, edamame, avocado, quinoa and

coffee and a neon pizza sign. But if you’re still not sold, Shawcross Pizza

red onion.

is BYO until they get their liquor license, after which you’ll be able to drink craft brews and wine by the bottle or glass until you’re hungry enough for a

Make sure you abide by the pizza rule (eat one less slice than you think you

second round at Phat Brats.

can manage) so you have room for dessert. The aptly named Sticky Icky Icky is the house’s Nutella calzone served with fresh strawberries and Jock’s

Disclaimer: As some readers know, Shawcross and Phat Brats are close to my

vanilla bean ice-cream, while the Sundae Bloody Sundae is a classic; cherry

heart, so please consider this a preview rather than a review. Nevertheless, I

on top and all.

know more than most how hard these boys strive for quality and consistency.

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Jacques Reymond 78 Williams Road, Prahran. Ph: 9525 2178 Words and photos by The Epicurean of Southbank

About the Epicurean of Southbank I am a Transformation Consultant by day and a Melbourne restaurant and bar

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patron by night. Being a full-time hedonist, I started my blog in July 2012 as a grand experiment with hopes that I could merge two of my favourite hobbies: epicurean

(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

adventures and writing.

www.epicureanofsouthbank.com

When I first threw open the front door to Jacques Reymond, which is located

degustation with matching wines. Jacques Reymond also serves, from what

in a stately Victorian mansion, a little over a year ago I knew I had found

I can tell, quite a stellar and comprehensive vegetarian-based degustation

somewhere special. After returning last week to placate my hungry self

menu. After David Chang made headlines when he proclaimed he would not

with their degustation and matched wine option, it felt like I never left and

cater for vegetarians, it is refreshing to see a renowned restaurant and chef

reminded me of home. Don’t assume that I grew up in a Victorian mansion.

making the effort to cater for this lifestyle choice.

I use the word ‘home’ in the romanticised way that we dream on occasion of having a kept life filled with wonders and perfection. I strive to get closer

Proceedings commenced with a contrast of ocean trout – both slow cooked

to that goal on a daily basis and since reintroducing the world of Jacques

and smoked being matched with a 2010 Kientzler Gewürztraminer from

Reymond to my life, I have moved one step closer to living the dream.

Alsace Ribeauvillé, France. Stark contrasts with the trout and a very aptly paired wine along with the sharp, knowledgeable, professional and engaging restaurant team made the first course perfect in every way.

It had been over a year since I dined in the restaurant. Seeing familiar faces is a testament to the restaurant as they are able to retain quality staff for long periods. The familiarity in turn immediately brought a sense of calm as

Moreton Bay bugs on fresh soba noodles, wild succulents with carmelised

we were escorted by the maître d’, a very affable chap called Gareth, that

black vinegar followed along with a 2009 Peregrine ‘Rastasburn’ Riesling,

recalled my last visit and assured me the same table near the fireplace and

Central Otago, New Zealand. The carmelised black vinegar really brought

most importantly the Dom Pérignon branded card was being made available

out the flavour of the bug. At first I thought the vinegar would kill the dish

for the festivities I suppose I have garnered quite the reputation for enjoying.

but I was dead wrong. The Kiwi wine was a safe match and worked well. It would have been interesting to see a match from Queensland just to keep the theme alive however the fruit in the Riesling really shined.

As we settled into the corner, the sommelier provided us glasses of 2003 Dom Pérignon to take the edge off, not knowing that we had assimilated into the comfortable seats in my favourite corner of the world quickly and easily. It

Perhaps it is just a preference, but I always find John Dory boring. The

was with no hesitation we announced we would be enjoying the nine course

restaurant has taken this wallflower and dressed it up like a high class lady of

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the night with Szechuan pepper, smoked palm sugar, lemon and black olives

Veal fillet dolce forte with sea urchin butter and lard potatoes followed. I

and effectively made the fish into a very exciting offering where you are

tend to like my sea urchin raw and accompanied with a quail egg in Japanese

tempted to go in and enjoy each bite more and more. The Szechuan pepper

restaurants and I was most impressed with the sea urchin butter and how

really brought this fish to life, and matched with Jacques Reymond’s own

it made the veal fillet taste. The lard potatoes were appropriate to serve

2010 Toolangi Estate Chardonnay from the Yarra, I was extremely impressed.

with this flavour intensive course and matched with an old and classy 1993 Lindeman’s ‘Limestone’s Ridge’ Shiraz Cabernet, Coonawarra, SA.

Flinders Island Meats must be working double shifts over the festive season as Flinders Island wallaby has not just found its way onto diner’s plates at

A white chocolate mojito with apricot, mango and strawberry was the first

Attica but also at Jacques Reymond. The wallaby course here took on a more

of two dessert courses to arrive. This one was matched with non-vintage

elaborate fare being accompanied with a lamb dumpling and served in its

Billecart-Salmon Demi Sec from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, France. This was followed

own juices. A 2009 Poulsard, Jacques Puffeney from Arbois, Jura, France

by Venezuela Origine Rare Chocolate and Mt Buffalo hazelnuts, passion fruit,

was paired with the rare beef and like when I visited Attica, made the wallaby

infusion of tonka bean and Tahitian vanilla. It was matched with a Bareito

dish my favourite for the evening.

Malvasia Full Rich five year old Madeira.

One of the more bizarre food pairings took place next. Highland venison

This has to be one of the most comfortable dining experiences I have had in

tataki and spanner crab. Spanner crab, when prepared properly is one of my

years. My palate was challenged by the combination of new tastes I never

favourite dishes but I was excited yet nervous to see it accompany venison

thought would complement one another. Some quality wines were enjoyed,

tataki especially since it was being matched with the big and bold 2009

new intelligence was in turn found and most importantly the entire experience

Poulsard, like with the rare wallaby. All I can say is “bloody amazing!”

led to the 4.5 hours flying by as pleasant conversation was in turn motivated by the positive experiences. What impressed me to no end was that the food,

Liguarian honey glazed Pekin duck with picked cherry and barbajuan was

drink, service and ambiance were elegant and not flashy. Haute cuisine does

then presented with 2009 Monthelie 1er Cru ‘Sur la Velle’ Domaine Rèmi

exist in Melbourne and it is found at Jacques Reymond. Take me home.

Jobard from Burgundy, France. Not to be confused with Peking duck, the Pekin duck is primarily used for egg and meat production. After the huge

My rating: 18.75/20

flavours associated with the venison and wallaby, the duck brought my palate

Service: 5/5

back down to earth. The honey and cherry flavours emboldened the 1er Cru

Ambiance: 4.75/5

wine whereas the duck continued on with the ‘wow’ factor that remained

Quality: 4.5/5

consistent with all of the courses throughout the evening.

Value For Money: 4.5/5

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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON St Ali North (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

St Ali North 815 Nicholson Street, Carlton North. Ph: 9686 2990 Words and photos by I’m So Hungree

About I’m so hungree I am a Melbournite with a penchant for sweets, eating my way around Melbourne (and the world!). I love SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE

good food and photography. I also suffer from ‘Oooh Shiny Thing!’ syndrome. My blog is my pretty eating diary and focuses on eating out experiences. I hope you all enjoy reading as much as I enjoy sharing!

(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

www.imsohungree.blogspot.com

It’s been quite a while since brunch came up on my blog, and this makes me

When we arrived, the place was pumping, so we left our names and were

a little bit sad, as brunch is one of my favourite things in the world. Brad and

instructed to sit under one of the umbrellas on the grass, which was actually

I usually have Sundays reserved just for us to go brunching and I’ve always

quite lovely as it was one of those cool but sunny days. Definitely pleasant

found it to be a nice little bonding time for us. So here’s our visit to St Ali

in our current weather, although when winter comes around, it might not be

North, the new hot kid on the block that has everyone aflutter.

quite as pleasant.

We checked out St Ali North on the first Sunday of 2013. This was potentially

Fortunately it was only a 10 minute wait, or maybe even less, then Brad and I

a bad move as I was worried, since St Ali North is still fairly new, that people

were plonked onto the long bar/counter space.

would still be on holidays and there was the potential for there to be long waits for tables, food, anything! I don’t pride myself on my patience by

The St Ali North space feels very different to its older sibling in the south.

any means.

Breaking away from the ever popular ‘grungy chic’ and bare brick café look, North is far slicker and cleaner, with cool colour palettes and plenty of light.

But there are some days where you just feel like you really need to go

There is a lightness and breeziness to the interior which I enjoyed.

somewhere in particular, and I was having that day with St Ali North. While I love the soy chai lattes at St Ali in the south, I wasn’t as enamoured So we drove up Nicholson and wandered around a little until we realised it

with the one at North. It comes in a smaller jug, without a strainer, thus no

was more on Park Street, behind the bike shop on Nicholson rather than on

obvious presence of tea leaves and spices like at St Ali in South Melbourne. I

Nicholson itself. Don’t be fooled by the address.

found the milk not as rich and creamy as I might have liked it and the flavour a little bit on the lacking side. I am assuming they are pre-straining it before

It’s a very clever move though, situated right behind a bike shop, next to a

it goes to the customer, but I think they may not be leaving in the tea and

bike riding path, and also along a fairly quiet road off Nicholson with plenty

spices long enough to infuse a bit more.

of parking, makes it incredibly accessible and convenient. Couple that with one of the most well known café names in Melbourne… all that’s left is to

Brad’s latte took a while to come out, actually not appearing until after our

serve good food and drinks.

food had come out when we chased it up a few times. A little bit surprising

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at the coffee mecca, although they were absolutely pumped, but still, I have

them a year or two ago. At that price I would hope to see at least a little more

been at busy cafés and had my full order come out in a timely manner.

haloumi on the plate, but I also suppose that the three fritters (which you’re not going to get replicated anywhere else in Melbourne that I know of yet)

But to move onto a brighter note, the food at St Ali North was pretty darned

plus the egg is pretty filling, so you are still getting a pretty good feed.

delicious. The menu was fairly short and sweet, but also seemed to be a little more dressed up, with some rather interesting offers.

What was to come next though, quickly spun away any niggle of negative thought. I had seen Daisy Instagram the most beautiful looking meringue

After having seen it on Instagram on several occasions, it was a bit obvious I

cake she had while she was at St Ali North, mentioning that it was gluten free.

had to have the bone marrow with morcilla, coffee, egg yolk emulsion, fennel

Having spied these slightly rough around the edges meringue-iced cakes

and capers. Sure, a bit rich and cholesterol lovin’ for brunch, but it’s not

through the dessert counter on the way in, I decided I needed to have one.

everyday, so surely it’s okay. Unctuous and decadent bone marrow, lightly freckled with breadcrumbs, it was just a dream on fluffy, buttery brioche.

What I discovered was pure bliss. Lightly caramelised and soft meringue

Black pudding was less on the metallic side and just a satisfying meaty

coating a lemon (and I assume almond?) sponge cake, which was gorgeously

mouthful, the egg yolk adding an additional round of gentle richness (not

moist, not overly sweet with a nice bit of tang.

that the dish was missing any). But a few more bites in, with great surprise, I discovered the real beauty. When the dish was listed with ‘coffee’ on the menu, I didn’t quite realise that

Sometimes ignorance and not fully knowing what you’re eating can be bliss.

it literally meant I was going to be served a filter coffee. It’s supposedly an experiment in pairing coffee with dishes, so to be a good sport, although I

It was cold on the tongue, it was sweet, it was citrusy, it was salted. Right in

don’t drink coffee, I did try it out. I’m not much of a coffee connoisseur, but it

the middle of this cake was a bit of lemon curd, with plenty of zest and, the

wasn’t too bad to my tastes. Not overly bitter, adding a bit of softness to the

best part, a healthy dose of velvety salted caramel. I died, came back to life,

otherwise quite rich dish.

had another bite and died again. And again. I pretty much ate this whole cake myself. Beautiful, sweet, sugary goodness.

Brad got the famous “My Mexican Cousin” dish which I did very much love at the St Ali south outlet. With sweet corn fritters, kasundi, haloumi, greens,

If nothing else, I would return just for this dessert. And maybe the rest, if they

tomato and poached egg. I had a few bites, and immediately kind of wished I

were as lovely as this.

had ordered the dish myself (although it is very hard to go past bone marrow). The fritters were beautifully sweet, crunchy on the outside and fluffy on the

On the whole, while there were a couple of bumps with service, I think St Ali

inside and well seasoned. Even better than what I had remembered (although

North certainly had some charm and some good offerings on the table, but

I hadn’t had them in a while either I guess).

I can see it not being for everyone either. If you’re the sort who just wants a laid back, comforting big breakie, maybe give the North a miss, but if you’re

My only beef with the fritters, is that at $21.50, I found it a little bit on the

willing to wait (or show up during the week instead of the weekend) and have

expensive side. I’m pretty sure they weren’t that much when I first ordered

a little patience, you may have quite an enjoyable experience as well.

wine reviews Words and photo by Krystina Menegazzo

About Krystina Menegazzo La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who worked in wineries throughout Australia and Italy. After years of gallivanting she returned to Melbourne to market wine and share her love of all things vinous. In her spare time she enjoys cooking, gardening,

SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

drinking good vino and is a self-confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).

www.ladonnadelvino.com

TOOLANGI Emanai 2012

The Riesling pours ultra youthful and pale into the glass à la Ms Blanchett’s

Yarra Valley, Victoria. RRP: $20

moonlight-hued skin. The aromatics and flavours lean towards the fine and

Gary and Julie Hounsell are proprietors of Toolangi Vineyards and happen

delicate end of the scale but with a quirky touch, just like her slender build and

to be two of the most generous people in the wine community. Emanai is

sense of style. I found lemon pith, pebbles, and a fun touch of peppery rocket

the latest addition to their range and, coincidentally, it was made off-site by

on the nose with crunchy, pink grapefruit acidity on the palate. Refreshment

my very first boss in winemaking, Franco D’Anna of Hoddles Creek Estate.

is the import for this wine and it sits dry on the sweetness scale. The Kirrihill

This young gun winemaker got to have a bit of fun playing with Emanai’s

Riesling is original and a breath of fresh air. Watching the credits roll after

interesting blend of chardonnay and viognier.

one of Ms Blanchett’s big screen hits aroused the same kind of feelings as I

Franco used the low-cropped fruit from the Dixon’s Creek vineyard, which

emptied my final glass of Kirrihill… I was left yearning for more.

he then co-fermented and matured in old French oak for three months. The

Stockists: Prince Wine Store, South Melbourne; Albert Park Food Works

result is not an abundantly fruit-driven wine but one that ticks all the boxes for texture and interest. The nose offers aromas of smoke, citrus, hay and

MAYFORD Tempranillo 2011

papaya with a lingering scent of candle wax. The palate has the classic oily

Alpine Valleys, Victoria. RRP: $36

texture of viognier, yet with an atypical flavour, which leans towards the

I discovered Mayford Wines by tasting their 2010 vintage at the Australian

green fruit spectrum. Overall, this is a fresh style of wine with a delicious

Alternatives Varietal Wine Show in Mildura last year. I got in touch with the

chalky mouthfeel, quite tart acidity and a mineral finish. With its colourful

winemaker Eleana straight away to get my hands on a bottle. They had moved

pixilated artwork by Julia Ritson adorning the label, it is hard to miss Emanai

onto the 2011 vintage, which fortunately is just as moreish as the other.

on a wine retailer’s shelf.

There are a number of wine regions around Australia growing delicious styles

Stockists: Toorak Cellars, Armadale Cellars and Brighton Bay Cellars

of Tempranillo, such as McLaren Vale, Canberra District and at Mayford in the Alpine Valleys. Over time Eleana has become enamoured with Tempranillo in

KIRRIHILL Slate Creek Vineyard Riesling 2012

this region. She treats the grapes with a weeklong soak at cold temperatures,

Clare Valley, South Australia. RRP: $18

then warms the juice and lets wild yeast do the fermentation in open vats.

Kirrihill is located in the Clare Valley – a treasured area producing world-class

Some of the wine spends an amazing eight weeks on skins followed by a year

Riesling. The Slate Creek vineyard lies within the sub-region of Watervale,

in old oak.

locally referred to as part of the “Golden Mile” of Riesling because of its

The result is a Tempranillo that pours with the most youthful, vibrant

consistency in quality.

magenta colour. The perfume conjures up a mixture of ingredients including

It may seem off-topic to now mention Cate Blanchett, one of our homegrown

blueberries, blackberries, herbs, vanilla and peppered cola. The palate opens

golden talents in the film industry. Mind you, I would not be the only person

with sour cherries and stewed rhubarb, wakes you up with its tart acidity and

slightly infatuated with her flair. It’s just that the unquestionable attraction

finishes you off with fine but slightly furry tannins. Try a bottle with your next

of Ms Blanchett and her consistently good performances had me drawing

round of barbecued red meat like porterhouse or lamb.

strong parallels to the Kirrihill Riesling I was sipping in my glass.

Stockist: Boccaccio Cellars, Balwyn

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