GRAM Magazine: May 2013 // Edition 28

GRAM.NET.AU MELBOURNE

ISSUE 28

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Melbourne strips and venues in Melbourne’s CBD and inner city

dedicated to promoting this exciting and

suburbs, our readers can enjoy the magazine over a meal, a coffee,

diverse food culture that Melbourne has

a drink or a snack.

become renowned for.

And while the author of each featured blog has their own unique

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of food and drink based blogs that have

to put a positive spin on Melbourne’s food and drink scene.

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and reviews that have been published online by local food

the pages to read reviews of venues such as Circa, Top Paddock,

bloggers, bringing the online world into the physical world.

Hammer and Tong, Paco’s Tacos, Pinocchio and more, along with

As the magazine is distributed to over 1000 outlets in prominent

our monthly wine reviews.

Danielle Gullaci, Editor

GRAM is Food Culture. Compiled. melbourne.gram.net.au

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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON CIRCA (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

CIRCA 2 Acland Street, St Kilda. Ph: 9536 1122 Words and photos by Almost Always Ravenous

ABOUT ALMOST ALWAYS RAVENOUS A twenty something year old Melbourne-born food lover, with the perpetual struggle SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE

of juggling his life between a demanding day job, an insatiable appetite to eat and satisfy a fastidious palate, and still find time to write a culinary journal and lead a somewhat normal life. More often than not, the ravenous stomach prevails!

(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

WWW.ALMOSTALWAYSRAVENOUS.WORDPRESS.COM

There’s never a better excuse to splurge than with birthday celebrations…

The plump shrimps wrapped in delicately paper thin golden pastry has to be dis-impaled with your fingers and dipped into the divine green tea

Over the past few years there has been much change in the menu and

and sesame aioli. I cannot say how much I adored those shrimps. If not for

direction at Circa. While I cannot say I have witnessed the changes in

ordering half the menu already I would have gone for seconds and maybe

person, I have seen it through the eyes of other bloggers.

even thirds.

The current décor is well pared back, with an elegant colour scheme of

THE PLUMP SHRIMPS WRAPPED IN DELICATELY PAPER THIN GOLDEN PASTRY HAS TO BE DIS-IMPALED WITH YOUR FINGERS AND DIPPED INTO THE DIVINE GREEN TEA AND SESAME AIOLI.

muted white, cream, black and timber. There are no white sheets in sight to add to its carbon footprint. The menu by Paul Wilson and Jake Nicolson has steered away from its origins, focusing more on Asian contemporary fusion cuisine that sprawls across several menu categories that is largely designed for sharing – yakitori; global street food; hot+cold+spicy; BBQ, feasting and mains; and desserts.

Despite deceptively appearing so elegant on the plates, both the wagyu taco and lamb rib san choi bao require you to get your hands a little messy,

Entrées/share plates

as both are full of juice that just uncontrollably oozes out. There is good

Much of the fun and excitement of dining at Circa lies in this part of the

heat (i.e. spice) in the kim chi, and there is a nice balance of lightness in the

menu. Not only are the flavours punchy and moreish, there is an element of

san choi bao.

tactile stimulation requiring a few hand to mouth manoeuvres.

The juicy bites of soft and slightly sweet Fremantle octopus with native

When it came to the ocean trout tartare, I was already won over when I saw

dessert lime caramel for example is eaten straight off the wooden sticks.

taro chips. If you have never had taro then you are missing out. It works

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FINALLY, I HAD HEARD MUCH ACCLAIM FOR THE RICE CRACKER CRUSTED SPICY CALAMARI WITH SEAWEED AIOLI, AND THEY DID NOT DISAPPOINT. GIVE THEM A TRY AND YOU WON’T BE ABLE TO STOP.

Puddings and Desserts Native lemon aspen pavlova with hibiscus ripple ice cream and salted caramel delice with boysenberry sorbet and macadamia crumble.

By this time, we (including me) were full to the brim. I can’t say I remember much detail from the sweet section *cough, food coma*. Both desserts

with just about anything – in spring rolls, in desserts, on their own – and of

were notably lighter, and more floral than I would usually like (or choose

course in this case it brings a bit of crunch and earthiness alongside the

in a sane state of mind for that matter). P.S. nothing further needs be said,

tartare and caviar. Love it.

when I say the dessert selection here has been much applauded by Momoand-Coco.

Finally, I had heard much acclaim for the rice cracker crusted spicy calamari with seaweed aioli, and they did not disappoint. Give them a try and you

Rating: Yummy+2. Circa is one of the few fusion-Asian cuisines in Melbourne

won’t be able to stop.

that I have thoroughly enjoyed. The food is creative, dotted with fun and vibrancy and most certainly swoon worthy.

Mains McIvor Farm Berkshire suckling pig with mango sweet ‘n’ sour, golden beetroot and fresh lychees; Robata BBQ O’Connors grass fed sirloin, with kimchi butter, exotic mushrooms and fried bread; and WA Patagonian toothfish, sweet miso and black garlic.

These were quality mains with good crackling, beautiful charring with fine use of caramelised mushrooms and onions, and even perfectly cooked fish.

CIRCA IS ONE OF THE FEW FUSIONASIAN CUISINES IN MELBOURNE THAT I HAVE THOROUGHLY ENJOYED. THE FOOD IS CREATIVE, DOTTED WITH FUN AND VIBRANCY AND MOST CERTAINLY SWOON WORTHY.

But they just seem to lack that little X-factor that would bring silence to the table. After all my foodie adventures, no matter how good the restaurant

While personally I would like the mains turned up a notch, there is more

is, there are few and far between that are able to preserve that very high

than enough to tantalise and satisfy from the less formal yakitori, global

level of inspiration, creativity and sensory impact of entrées onto the mains

street food and hot+cold+spicy sections of the menu. Overall there is little

that follow. Circa comes close to escaping this notion, but not quite.

to fault here, it’s definitely a keeper.

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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON HAMMER AND TONG (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

HAMMER AND TONG Rear 412 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy. Ph: 9041 6033 Words and photos by Off The Spork

ABOUT AGNES HON I like to eat.

SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE

I like to cook.

I like to bake.

I like to blog.

(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

I like the word spork.

WWW.OFFTHESPORK.COM

Random Fridays off work are the best. The best. Not just because it

Eventually I decided on the baked eggs in tomato fondue with chorizo,

means a three day weekend (and when is that going to be implemented

manchego and flatbread ($17). It was nice. If I’m being super fussy

worldwide? I will join that movement) but because sometimes it means

maybe the sauce could’ve used a touch more oomph. That’s just being

that I get to have breakfast with my friend Em.

very critical though – it was a decent dish.

She lives east and I live west, so we try and meet in the middle which

Em chose the scrambled eggs with brioche toast, haloumi and tomato

generally means Fitzroy or Collingwood. Our latest breakfast was at

relish ($16). She commented that it was really good though she did get

Hammer and Tong, courtesy of a suggestion from Brunch Queen.

a bit defeated by the haloumi.

Hammer and Tong opened in February in the spot where the short-lived

We had a second round of coffees because we were busy chatting and

Brix was located. The room hasn’t changed much since Brix (minus the

were given a couple of complimentary Italian doughnuts. Yum. Pretty

mega massive pig statue) – it’s still a beautiful, bright room with large

much a perfect doughnut – not too sweet or doughy.

windows and white brick walls.

Hammer and Tong was really pleasant – the food was good, staff were It’s hard choosing what to eat when faced with options like coconut

lovely, and on a Friday morning it wasn’t too busy, which meant we had

black rice pudding with mango, or buttermilk pancakes with blueberries,

lots of time and space for a lovely catch up. Huzzah for random work-

maple syrup and popping candy ice cream or truffled duck egg on toast.

free Fridays.

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9

SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON TOP PADDOCK (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

TOP PADDOCK 658 Church Street, Richmond. Ph: 9429 4332 Words and photos by Peach Water

ABOUT PEACH WATER Probably best described as a geek girl who is an avid and active video gamer, prone to carnivorous cravings and mad for macarons and cupcakes. When she is not sampling the menu of Melbourne and

SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

beyond, she takes delight in designing and progressing her design portfolio.

WWW.PEACH-WATER.COM

Back in 2011 I was in love with Three Bags Full; in fact, it was the first place

3. Adelaide green tomatoes: Oh these tomatoes are gems. Slightly tart-ish

I reviewed on peach-water.com. One and a half years later, Three Bags Full

and slightly sweet.

has been sold off; Two Birds One Stone has been open for eight months.

4. Pickled onions: These were pickled to perfection. I loved the tangy taste and it went really well with the sausages.

Now, Top Paddock is in the scene. I remembered following Top Paddock’s

5. Relish: I found the relish to be a bit on the sweet side, but I still enjoyed

twitter account from the very beginning and had been anticipating the

eating it with the bacon.

opening for quite some time.

6. Poached eggs: Two poached eggs and when I poked them, liquid gold came out. Yum! Love my poached eggs.

In this blog post, I will provide two reviews – one on opening day and one a couple of weeks later.

Here comes the naughty bit. It was a hot day, I was extremely thirsty, but I wanted something sweet.

Visit #1: opening day Oh boy was I excited! With great anticipation I drove all the way to Richmond

I told the waitress that I wanted a strawberry milkshake, and she came back

to visit Top Paddock. It was crazy hot and there was also a huge crowd.

with a mixed berry smoothie. When I told her, she said, “Oh sorry I forgot, I assumed that you wanted a mixed berry smoothie because it’s healthy.”

As I had visited on my own, the wait time was quite minimal, and I was given

Luckily it was a good drink and refreshing, so I didn’t care too much.

a bench seat outside.

As if that mixed berry drink wasn’t enough sugar. Well… I ended up ordering To start off, I had a skinny latte.

a cupcake, because it caught my attention when I walked into the café.

When I was handed the menu, I studied it for a long while. There were so

Unfortunately I was quite disappointed with the cupcake. The cupcake itself

many choices that it was extremely difficult to choose. So in the end, I chose

was pretty moist, but it was the thick layer of overly sweet grainy icing that

Top Paddock.

ruined it. Having said that, it looked very pretty.

When my plate of food arrived it was accidentally given to a guy who sat next

Overall experience (please note that this was their opening day that I

to me. Later when the waitress left, the guy said to me, “You know, I wouldn’t

visited):

have minded saying the plate was mine, because that looks amazing.”

1. Service was rather lacking – forgetting the orders and delivering it to the wrong table.

Trust me, this dish was phenomenal and I would strongly recommend it to

2. Food was amazing – great presentation and tasted great.

anyone who visits. It is a large dish, but worth going into a food coma for.

There are a lot of ingredients in this dish but I loved every bit of it:

Visit #2: a re-visit with my girls

1. House made sausage: At first I thought the sausage would be presented like

Not too long ago, my girls Julie, Lianne, Daisy, and Lianne’s sis-in-law

most cafés (the whole sausage), but here they presented it sliced. I adored

Melissa arranged a catch up at Top Paddock.

it. Slightly charred but tasted great. Full of flavour and slightly peppery.

2. Bacon: A lean piece of bacon that’s not too fatty. Perfect for someone like

I know I had visited before, but I was keen to try again and see whether

me who dislikes fatty bacon. It’s very meaty mind you.

there was an improvement in service.

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Has the service improved? Yes!

which gave the trout a weird sweetish taste. I would have preferred the relish to be placed on the side of the dish to be honest.

It was an extremely hot day, the sun was blazing and we chose to sit outside.

My main concern was getting a super tanned face, so the whole time I took

Potato galettes: Cut into small cube bits, but a very floury potato. Loved it.

the menu to shield my face. I even joked with the waiter saying that I would tip him more if he stood there to shield me from the sun.

Julie who is a huge burger fan, ordered the soft shell Queensland crab roll with fennel, dill and lime mayo in a brioche bun. Her roll looked amazing, and

As it was extremely sunny and we could barely see, we asked the waitress

they were very generous with the soft shell Queensland mud crab as well.

to kindly move us to another table. In all honesty we probably should have sat inside, as Julie and I were getting quite irritated by an annoying bee that

Melissa ordered the eggs benedict which is served with a tender hamhock,

just wouldn’t leave us alone.

and instead of hollandaise sauce they served it with bernaise.

To start off with we all ordered our caffeine. I generally order a latte, but felt

My twinnie, Lianne, chose the white anchovies with jamon serrano with fried

like having a cappuccino, so I did.

eggs, pedron peppers and manchego on toast. I love the brown plate that they used to serve this dish.

Once again, I ended up being stumped choosing my dish. In the end I chose a light dish – gin and lime cured ocean trout, with beetroot relish, potato

Our Sweet Queen, Daisy, chose the pulled pork on rye with prunes, leaves

galette, poached eggs, leaves and goat’s curd with toast.

and goat’s curd.

This dish is definitely a stunning looking dish, and is suited for someone

According to Daisy the pulled pork was not tender enough, but there was

feeling peckish as it’s not overly heavy.

so much pork included in her dish. I think Daisy was still sick on that day, so she didn’t really enjoy it as much.

Gin and lime cured ocean trout: This cured ocean trout was delicious. You cannot really taste the gin, but it had a very delicate yet tangy taste to it.

Overall experience: 1. Staff were very prompt, professional and friendly.

Beetroot Relish: The beetroot relish was placed on top of the ocean trout,

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2. Food presentation was great.

SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON THE BEER & BURGER LOUNGE (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

THE BEER & BURGER LOUNGE 112 Swan Street, Richmond. Ph: 9429 5934 Words and photo by The Burger Adventure

ABOUT THE BURGER ADVENTURE The Burger Adventure is a blog that reviews the best burgers from SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE

Australia and around the world. Created by four guys with a passion for beef, buns, cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, egg, bacon and sauce.

(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

WWW.THEBURGERADVENTURE.COM

Summary The Beer and Burger Lounge occupies a large, bright and brand spanking

game, lamb, pork and salmon options. We grabbed a bar stool each and

new fit out with contrasting white tiles on the business side and exposed

surrounded a table within viewing distance of the open plan kitchen and

brick on the patrons’ side. As the name suggests, they offer a large range

proceeded to watch the chef cook our burger with cheese, tomato jam,

of beers and wide variety of burgers including beef, chicken, veggie,

mustard and gherkin.

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Comments B – “When I heard the name ‘The Beer and Burger Lounge’ I had an

more sauce as the balance of sweet and tang was faultless. The bun

image in my head of a laid-back, cool and cosy spot with a cracking

was soft and perfectly sized for a single hand, and for that reason, I’m

range of beers, and couches as far as the eye could see. When I arrived

calling it a great lunch time burger. It still allows you to pick up your

I will admit I was a little disappointed. It just really felt cold and boring

boss’ phone call while you’re at lunch. Or not. For $10 I’m definitely

with a generic range of uninspiring beers. When the burger first turned

going back again.”

up to the table though I began to smile. This was a traditional looking cheeseburger with a fluffy, soft seeded bun that held a thin and nicely cooked beef pattie. All the other basics of tomato jam, crunchy and tangy pickles and mustard were good quality. I also loved the golden crispy onion ring sitting atop. All in all, a really good example of a classic cheeseburger. I just wish I felt as comfortable as I should have in a lounge.”

EACH INGREDIENT WORKED WELL TOGETHER BUT WAS ALSO STRONG ENOUGH TO STAND OUT IN EACH BITE: THE SPICE OF THE MUSTARD, THE SWEETNESS OF THE TOMATO JAM, THE CREAMINESS OF THE CHEESE AND THE CRISP COOLNESS OF THE GHERKIN.

D – “Just a simple, sweet and soft burger experience. There was some serious glare coming from the gloss of the bun that was just the ideal

Z – “When I’m given the option of cheese or no cheese, I’m always going

size to keep everything together. Each ingredient worked well together

to pick cheese. There are so many more instances where you think,

but was also strong enough to stand out in each bite: the spice of the

‘This thing could do with some cheese’, rather than the contrary. So it

mustard, the sweetness of the tomato jam, the creaminess of the cheese

was an easy call for me to get the Cheeseburger. All the ingredients in

and the crisp coolness of the gherkin. Again, and much to my delight

there were individually pretty darn good. Except when all together, they

(I can sense a bit of a trend at the moment), there was a delightful onion

didn’t play nice. Colonel Mustard and I are good mates and have shared

ring on top.”

some memorable meals. But here, the bold condiment and its pickle counterpart really took over any creaminess the cheese was trying to

G – “A simple and easy burger to eat. Nothing complicated here, just

deliver. The pattie was of a very high standard and had been cooked

good old fashioned burgering (yeah that’s a word). The beef pattie was

with so much tender love. There was salt, juice and the right amount

perfect. It had a nice pinkish hue in the middle. The mustard and tomato

of moo in each bite. I’d definitely be back, but to try this burger again

jam combined so well together, there wasn’t even any need to add any

sans-mustard.”

BURGER:

SERVIETTES:

DRESS CODE:

SLEEPINESS:

WOULD WE RECOMMEND:

PRICE:

Cheeseburger

1

Smart casual

6 minutes

Definitely

$10

ItalIan pastry

cookIng

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KITCHEN

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64 Sutton Street, North Melbourne VIC 3051 T 03 9322 4750 03 9322 4755 F 03 9322 4711 E info@casabottega.com.au

casabottega.com.au 15

SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON PACO’S TACOS (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

PACO’S TACOS Level 1, 500 Bourke Street, Melbourne. Ph: 9663 3038 Words and photos by Spatula, Spoon and Saturday

ABOUT SPATULA, SPOON AND SATURDAY Kat started her ‘fabulous food porn blog’ while working in Singapore as a SAP consultant because ‘everyone has a food blog in Singapore’. Over time, it evolved into a blog about restaurant reviews, travelling and recipes from her homecooking experiments. Kat lives with her family in Melbourne where she finds it to be too cold but loves it anyway. She has no ambition other than to ensure her child is capable of eating ridiculously spicy food.

SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

WWW.SPATULASPOONANDSATURDAY.COM

Hoorah for date nights! Since they are a bit hard to come by, Josh and

it was a perfect day. It was hot but the cool change was just beginning

I decided to really party it up big… by going to the theatre. I know, old

to come in, hot enough to still enjoy their Pimm’s Fruit Cup but cool

age happens when you least expect it – with a young child. So to be able

enough to be comfortable. What can I say? I love me cheap, fruity

to fit in dinner and a show, I was tossing up between a pre-theatre menu

cocktails.

somewhere nice or a tapas bar and by chance had a look on the MoVida website which happens to also house Paco’s Tacos.

And since Mexican is, you know, in (how very 2012 of me), I drew Josh’s attention to the MoVida Group’s new(ish) taqueria. The man I married, unfortunately, had a childish streak that even a marriage to a mature, no

THE MEAT WAS QUITE NICE AND TENDER AND THE SPICY SAUCE (DESCRIBED AS BRAISED BEEF, PICA DE GALLO, PICKLED CACTUS AND CHIPOTLE SAUCE ON THE MENU) WORKED WELL.

nonsense woman like me cannot cure. Okay, I may have encouraged this one by saying ‘Paco’s Tacos’ in my silliest Mexican accent but once the

Never mind that it was 5.45pm and the after-work drink crowd was still

man got an idea into his head and especially when that idea was Paco’s

going in full force, we proceeded to get into the tacos (did I mention

Tacos (say it with me in the lamest Mexican accent possible), it couldn’t

we’re old?) since we wanted to take a leisurely stroll to the State Theatre

be scrubbed out.

to pick up our tickets and catch the 7.30pm Warhorse show. So after I went through my drink, we started ordering tacos – two at a time.

So off to Paco’s Tacos. We went straight from work on a sweltering hot day. It was a very pleasant day – being an undercover, outdoor venue,

First up were Carne Asada and Pescado – i.e. a meat taco and a fish taco.

Cor p Cat orate nas ering hi.c ? om .au

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17

The meat was quite nice and tender and the spicy sauce (described as

I also interrupted going through the entire menu with the chicharrones

braised beef, pica de gallo, pickled cactus and chipotle sauce on the

– which is basically the Latin American answer to pork crackling. The

menu) worked well. The fish, on the other hand, was a little bit on the

picture doesn’t quite do it justice but it was basically a massive pile of

disappointing side. Slightly bland and underwhelming.

crunchy fried air. That’s right, it was so fluffy and light, it was almost like eating air. I loved it. Let’s face it here, it’s deep fried pig’s skin – what is

THE PRAWN TACOS, I’M HAPPY TO REPORT, TASTED MUCH BETTER THAN THEY LOOKED – GOOD BALANCE OF PRAWNS, CABBAGE AND PEPITAS ADDING A GOOD CRUNCH.

not to like? The next table was so intrigued after seeing it (it was quite impressive looking) but once they found out it was deep fried pig’s skin, they ordered nachos instead. Disappointing.

The last few tacos went by as a bit of blue as by this point I was getting full and starting to give up. Josh on the other hand was still going. He

But why stop at two? (As you will find out, we only stopped after six and

ordered a serve of the chicken taco (pollo) which was also served with

two side dishes.) Next up, I ordered the BBQ corn, which we also quite

the pickled cabbage. He liked this one so much, he ordered another

enjoyed as an intermission to the taco craziness that we were about to

one. By this time I had given up completely and contemplated going

continue on.

over to MoVida for a couple of rounds of dessert but unfortunately had no room left in my stomach. So we left and took a needed walk to the

The prawn tacos, I’m happy to report, tasted much better than they

State Theatre in Southbank.

looked – good balance of prawns, cabbage and pepitas adding a good crunch. The salsa verde was also complimentary. Our next up was my

Overall, while the tacos weren’t blow-your-mind-wow, they are

personal favourite, the chorizo tacos. I’m quite partial to the strong,

cheap(ish) and decently prepared. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit.

spicy chorizo with lots of zesty cabbage and the corn salsa balanced

A great place to go for a few drinks and to pick up a few tacos (or

out the flavours nicely.

massively puffed up pig’s skin) on a lovely day.

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M O N D AY

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RECIPE: BARLEY AND VEGGIE SOUP Recipe and photos by Voracious Veg

ABOUT VORACIOUS VEG I am a vegetarian with a voracious appetite. I live in Melbourne and grew up SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE

working in restaurants. I love to cook as much as I love to eat. A vegetarian since 2010, I believe food can and always should be delicious, nutritious, adventurous and ethical. I blog about my favourite recipes.

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WWW.VORACIOUSVEG.COM

I wasn’t raised a vegetarian, so the soup that was a staple in my house

have now created their own memories and the perfect replacement for my

growing up was my mum’s chicken noodle soup. It’s one of those dishes I

mother’s chicken noodle soup.

will forever associate with afternoons in bed with a cold watching The Bold and the Beautiful. Chicken noodle soup and Tim Tams seemed to be able to fix everything.

Once I became a vegetarian I was at a bit of a loss when it came to what to eat when feeling sick or just when the weather was poos and I wanted a bowl of something warm as I hid under the doona in front of the TV. Of course there are heaps of veggie soup options, but none of them had that

ONCE I BECAME A VEGETARIAN I WAS AT A BIT OF A LOSS WHEN IT CAME TO WHAT TO EAT WHEN FEELING SICK OR JUST WHEN THE WEATHER WAS POOS AND I WANTED A BOWL OF SOMETHING WARM AS I HID UNDER THE DOONA IN FRONT OF THE TV.

homely flavour that comes with food infused with memories.

I make this soup in two stages: stage one is the base soup, primarily made Fortunately, my mother-in-law came to the rescue. Whenever we go to

up of barley, carrots and stock, which I make up in a big batch then portion

Canberra to visit there always seems to be a pot of barley and veggie soup

out. Most of this is then frozen for easy access when I am sick or stuck back

on the stove for emergencies. It might sound odd but anyone who has ever

at work. Stage two is quick and simple, just heat and add the veggies and

had three growing boys in their house is used to the need for giant pots

seasoning. I have listed the veggies I tend to use but you can add whatever

of filling food to be at hand at all times. While the need for the soup is

you like – frozen peas, capsicum, broccoli… whatever you have in your fridge,

no longer informed by growing pains, this soup always makes a welcome

the more colourful the better. The motivation for this latest giant batch is

appearance to line our bellies before we head off to a wedding or when

my impending first born. Apparently cooking is not going to feature heavily

we arrive home in need of some sobering assistance. Years of eating it

in my future, at least not for the first six weeks I have been told.

E

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INGREDIENTS cover everything by 3-4 centimetres, about 2 cups. Raise the temperature For the soup base (makes about 4 good sized portions)

and bring to the boil. Then as soon as it boils, turn down to a simmer and

1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

add a couple of pinches of salt.

1 large brown onion, diced 2 garlic cloves, minced

If you have any left over rinds from your Parmesan cheese throw them into

2 carrots, sliced

the pot as well. Yes it sounds weird but I do hold onto mine specifically for

3-4 bay leaves

this purpose. They add a delicious rich flavour and slight creaminess to the

250g pearl barley

soup as it cooks.

3 cups vegetable stock Salt

Leave the soup simmering for about 25 minutes until the barley softens.

Parmesan rinds (optional)

Add additional stock as required. Basically you want the barley covered at all times with the stock.

Veggie filling (per person) 75g tinned borlotti beans, drained and rinsed

Once the barley is cooked, turn off the heat and portion out the soup. I

4 cherry tomatoes

put a portion in a pot for my dinner and individually portion the remainder

2 mushrooms, sliced

of the soup into take away containers for freezing. If I have a big bunch

Âź zucchini, sliced

of English spinach I will add some of that, raw, to the containers prior to

English spinach, washed and roughly torn

freezing.

Salt and pepper Chilli flakes

To finish the soup, add the remaining stock to your portion in the pot and

Fresh basil leaves

make it as soupy as you like. Then throw your cherry tomatoes, mushrooms,

Parmesan (optional)

borlotti beans, zucchini and spinach in with your soup base and heat on a medium flame for about 7-10 minutes until the tomatoes have softened and

METHOD

the veggies are cooked through.

Heat 1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil in a heavy-based soup pot on a

Serve in a bowl, seasoned with salt, pepper, chilli flakes, fresh

medium heat. Add the diced onion, garlic, carrot and 3 or 4 bay leaves.

basil leaves and Parmesan cheese. Super delicious, healthy, full of

Lightly fry the vegetables for 2-3 minutes, making sure they don’t colour.

protein and nice and warming to get you through that cold or just

Wash the pearl barley, drain well and stir into the pot. Add enough stock to

that cold night.

22

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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON PINOCCHIO (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

PINOCCHIO 152 Toorak Road, South Yarra. Ph: 9867 2772 Words and photos by Sharking For Chips and Drinks

ABOUT SHARKING FOR CHIPS AND DRINKS Sharking for Chips and Drinks is a writer-photographer team that relocated from SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE

London to Melbourne last year, and soon found themselves falling for the city’s coffee, brunch and bar scenes – and every meal in between. While Melbourne is the main focus, the pair regularly venture far and wide across Australia, Asia and, of course, their

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old stomping ground in the UK.

WWW.SHARKINGFORCHIPSANDDRINKS.WORDPRESS.COM

Turning off Chapel Street we break into a light jog along Toorak Road – it

She also guided us through the menu in our moments of indecision

is pouring with rain and we are tempted to dive into the tried and tested

– suggesting we start with an antipasti plate of pecorino, chunks of

spice temple that is Dainty Sichuan. But we persevere, passing South

salty parmigiano, salami, San Daniele prosciutto, plump olives and

Yarra station (a first for us – we normally catch a glimpse of France Soir

caperberries. Accompanied by triangles of herby, fluffy focaccia, all our

as we scooter by, but have never really explored this stretch) and reach

happy aperitivo memories of travelling in Italy came flooding back.

our destination feeling more than a little bit bedraggled.

Why haven’t we heard about this place before? How has a restaurant Happily, within seconds we are seated – him with a tumbler of Negroni,

so welcoming, serving food so tasty, completely escaped our notice?

her with a 250ml carafe of Sangiovese – phew. Now a quick word about

We were beginning to doubt our food blogger credentials, when

serving sizes and wine. Sometimes, 150ml just doesn’t do the job, but

owner Renato came to our rescue explaining that Pinocchio’s previous

ordering more than a couple of glasses of wine feels excessive. And

incarnation was not as attractive as it is today. A bit dark, a bit behind

sometimes you want the same wine as your co-eater, but aren’t sure you

the times, in need of a makeover. An honest critique, but this cheerful

can stretch to a bottle. Hoorah then for the tiny handful of restaurants

Italian clearly has nothing to worry about now.

that offer carafes. With 250ml and 500ml serves available, the gap between one glass and one bottle is bridged perfectly. The Negroni slips down a treat and is swiftly followed by a stronger Negroni (thanks bar people) and a Bugiardo (gin, Campari, chinotto, orange), which apparently means ‘liar’ in Italian. Although I have always found three cocktails in quick succession tend to have an opposite affect, but each to their own.

In between trips to the bathroom to dry our hair, clothes and shoes, and

FLAVOURFUL CRUSHED TOMATOES REALLY HELPED IN THE LAMB DISH, AS THE MEAT WAS SUPER RICH AND DENSE (IN A GOOD WAY), WHILE THE ZUCCHINI FLOWERS WERE A LIGHTER CONTRAST WITH THE SWEET SEAFOOD FLAVOUR WORKING BRILLIANTLY WITH THE CREAMY AIOLI AND MELTED CHEESE.

downing drinks while agonising over a menu on which everything looks amazing, we do manage to take in our surrounds. The décor is clean

Next, a selection of small dishes to share – ‘cicchetti’. Panino di agnello

and crisp – sketches and lines of text chart the classic tale of Pinocchio

(sticky pulled lamb shoulder in a soft little panino with garlic aioli) and

(the story by Carlo Collodi published in 1883, not the Disney derivation)

fiori di zucca (zucchini flowers stuffed with burrata and Morton Bay

and the idea of an artist’s studio is conveyed by the wall-mounted desk

bugs, with a saffron aioli).

lamps (you know, the ones with the bending arms, like in the Pixar opening logo). The space manages to look modern and homely all at

Flavourful crushed tomatoes really helped in the lamb dish, as the

the same time – Melbourne’s funky take on the traditional trattoria.

meat was super rich and dense (in a good way), while the zucchini flowers were a lighter contrast with the sweet seafood flavour working

Our waitress, Francesca, deserves a shout out. Just six weeks into her

brilliantly with the creamy aioli and melted cheese. Delicately battered

international adventures – she hails from Le Marche – Francesca was

and perfectly cooked, we could have happily worked our way through

a great source of information on regional specialities and ingredients.

the whole section of this menu, but decided instead to press on.

25

On to the pastas and a plate of agnolotti to share – a further dose of

caught out in the rain this is the perfect way to ward off any unwanted

Morton Bay bugs and burrata wrapped in squid ink pasta and served in

bouts of flu – it’s pizza to put hairs on your chest. We shared a regular

a rich lobster sauce with fresh peas that were bursting with just cooked,

(all are under $20 – bargain) but all pizzas are also available as ‘large’.

pop-in-your-mouth perfection. Worth pointing out that larger serves for parties of two, three or four people can also be whipped up. Useful to

We often fret about pizza bases being soggy, but we had no cause for

know. Oh, and the pizzas can be prepared as half yard or yard length on

concern here – some of the best pizzas in the city and cheaper than

a wooden plank.

many of the more well-known places. Win!

ONCE IN A WHILE, YOU STUMBLE UPON A PLACE THAT GENUINELY IMPRESSES – A PLACE YOU KNOW YOU WILL REVISIT TIME AND TIME AGAIN REGARDLESS OF GLITZY NEW OPENINGS.

Just when we thought we couldn’t go on and were contemplating a wobbly passeggiata home, the chef’s dessert tasting plate happened.

Chocolate cannolo, crostata di limoni (wood-fired lemon tart with vanilla mascarpone) and panna cotta were gone before you could say ‘Geppetto’.

It was a tough choice, but we decided to go for a pizza over one of the

Once in a while, you stumble upon a place that genuinely impresses

secondi dishes, although passing up the special – pork shoulder braised

– a place you know you will revisit time and time again regardless of

in Peroni Reserva beer with parmesan polenta – was a bit heartbreaking.

glitzy new openings. With 40 years already under their belt, the team at Pinocchio finally have the space they deserve to really shine. And that’s

With more than 20 pizzas to choose from (not to mention bianca and

no lie. (Stop groaning – nearly 1000 words and only one Pinocchio-

calzone options) we were won over by the diavola – a yellow San Marzano

related cliché? Consider yourself lucky. I had a whole load of stuff about

tomato base (sweeter than the traditional red Roma variety) with hot

being a ‘real boy’ and ‘got wood’ lined up…)

N’duja salami (traditionally from Calabria, but Matt the chef sources his from a guy in Byron Bay), buffalo mozzarella and wild rocket. It really

By the way – for die-hard Baysiders, there is another Pinocchio located

is very spicy, but too good to stop eating for a sip of water. After being

in Hampton.

26

SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON 8 DAYS CAFÉ (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

8 DAYS CAFÉ 1184 High Street, Armadale. Ph: 9500 9711 Words and photo by Ms I-Hua and The Boy

ABOUT MS I-HUA A collaborative blog between the Boy and Ms I-Hua on their eating and traveling SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE

adventures in Melbourne.

WWW.MSIHUA.COM

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As is quite often with retired sporting figures, they venture into the

provided me with a fleece blanket (a whole basket to choose from

hospitality world in the bar and pub scene. Not so with Ruaraidh Gunn,

actually). So I was mostly warm while we lounged outside eating our

former professional ‘real tennis’ (grass tennis) player.

brunch.

He has gone out on a limb from his sporting brothers and sisters and

The coffees were well brewed and we enjoyed our lattes as we relaxed

opened up 8 Days, a café and roastery based at High Street, Armadale.

and chatted away outside. I was feeling quite comfortable and contented with my warm blanket.

When I first saw the name of the café, I immediately assumed that it was because Gunn was a Beatles Fan but upon more research, discovered

The Boy had the wagyu beef burger ($21.00) – brioche bun, gruyere

that Gunn named his first venture after what he believes is the optimum

cheese, smoked bacon, tomato relish and sliced pickles with fat chips,

time to grind coffee beans after roasting. So, there you go.

crisp baby cos, tomato and aioli, which he quite enjoyed. He loved the idea of using gruyere cheese in the burger.

At 8 Days Café, coffee beans are roasted by Five Senses then ground by the team at 8 Days, eight days later (duh!).

All I wanted for breakfast that morning was bacon. So I ordered the smashed avocado and Persian fetta on six grain toast with smoked

The Boy and I decided to head there one morning as we were being our

bacon and poached eggs ($18.00) which was mighty delicious and just

usual indecisive selves. The Boy asked me what I would like to have for

what I needed on that cold and wet morning.

breakfast, which roughly translates to: “I am too lazy to think, you better come up with a good option that’s not too far away”. I translate husband

Come here if you need to relax after a hard morning of shopping on

speak quite well.

High Street, if you’re with your mates catching up or if you need some good family time (the place is big enough and friendly enough for kids

Luckily for me, 8 Days had been on my radar as we had been tweeting

of all ages).

each other (don’t you just love technology) and they were the first place that I could think of to suggest. So off we went. The problem with High

They also do dinners and late nights from Wednesdays to Fridays.

Street in Armadale is the lack of available parking in that area. We circled for a good 20 minutes before finding an off-street park, which was just as

Take note that they do not do split bills or make variations to items on

well as we were just about ready to give up and turn around elsewhere.

the menu on weekends.

As we walked into the café, we noticed that the interior was quite dark.

Disclaimer: All food ratings and review are purely based on my own

So, as a major sacrifice to you (my dear readers), I convinced The Boy

experiences and how I feel about the service, food and quality at the

that we needed to sit outside in the cold so that our pictures would turn

time of visit.

out better. The things I do for you.

Food/Cuisine: Breakfast, modern Australian Fantastically for me, as part of the great service, the team at 8 Days

Dining Style: Café and roastery

29

WINE REVIEWS Words and photo by Krystina Menegazzo

ABOUT KRYSTINA MENEGAZZO La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who worked in wineries throughout Australia and Italy. After years of gallivanting she returned to Melbourne to market wine and share her love of all things vinous. In her spare time she enjoys cooking, gardening, drinking good vino and is a self-confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).

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WWW.LADONNADELVINO.COM

Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes Albariño 2011 The white grape variety Albariño has been around for a long time. It originated in both north-eastern Portugal (where is it called Alvarinho) and the far corner of north-western Spain in the autonomous community of Galicia. Historical records from Galicia mention the Albariño grape back in 1843 and vineyards have even been discovered with vine age ranging from 200 to 300 years. Fascinating stuff.

FORTUNATELY FOR MODERN TECHNOLOGY, WINERIES FOUND THEMSELVES ABLE TO SALVAGE WHAT GOOD FRUIT THEY HAD LEFT AND MAKE A WINE THAT SPEAKS OF THE VINTAGE. THIS IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE WINE IS A PRODUCT OF NATURE AND SHOULD NOT ALWAYS TASTE THE SAME.

Fefiñanes is a benchmark producer for the Albariño grape, having pioneered it for nearly 100 years in the Rias Baixas wine zone. The wines

Langhe Nebbiolo, however it is a very smart effort on Australian soil from

are made in a beautiful palace built in the 16th century in the centre of

the De Bortoli team. Bravo.

Cambados.

This Albariño opens aromatically with green apple, pear and some sweet

Syrahmi Finesse Shiraz 2011

floral notes reminiscent of the native white frangipani. The palate has a

Mother Nature dictates success or failure for many working in agricultural

rich round flavour of rockmelon, yellow flowers with hints of rocket and

industries. It’s no different for those in wine. Each morning in the lead

mint. The mineral tones and zippy acidity complemented my dinner of

up to harvest, grape growers and winemakers look worryingly to the

a simple seafood spaghetti marinara using fresh ingredients and loaded

sky, sometimes praying for rain and sometimes for sunshine. In the case

with plenty of garlic and parsley. Your romantic dinner date may not

of the year 2011, Mother Nature was a temperamental lady and created

approve of all that garlic and seafood, but the wine most certainly will.

undesirably wet conditions for many across the nation. Fortunately for modern technology, wineries found themselves able to salvage what

De Bortoli Vinoque Nebbiolo 2011

good fruit they had left and make a wine that speaks of the vintage. This

I met Andrew Bretherton and his bushy beard back in 2011 when we partook

is important because wine is a product of nature and should not always

in a scholarship for Italian wine aficionados. For two days we sipped the

taste the same.

finest the country had to offer and shared our mutual adoration for all

Finesse is the current Shiraz release by winemaker of Syrahmi and maker

things Italiano. Fast-forward a couple of years and Andrew had this bottle

of salami, Adam Foster. The fruit was sourced from Heathcote in central

of Nebbiolo to share after tinkering away on this project at his workplace,

Victoria. On the back of the wine label Adam defines Finesse with two

De Bortoli winery. Fruit for this wine was sourced from the Wood vineyard,

possible meanings:

a warmer site in the Yarra Valley.

1. Refinement and delicacy of performance, execution, or artisanship.

The Vinoque Nebbiolo has the characteristic pale red, almost rosé like

2. Skillful, subtle handling of a situation: tactful, diplomatic maneuvering.

hue. Its perfume is intoxicating with a mix of aromas that had me picturing

I decided to look at the wine to gain a better understanding. The perfume

a butcher shop scattered with roses. There are also some spice and smoky

was intriguingly reminiscent of deliciously grilled vegetables seasoned

elements that blend nicely with the overriding floral aromas. The palate

with black pepper and dusted with crushed minerals. The palate showed

continues with a dominating savoury character: fresh meat flavours, an

surprising depth of fruit, fresh acidity, substantial texture, rounded tannins

earthy backbone, moderate acidity, gliding tannins and a flourish of rose

and lingering spice and cedar notes to finish. The conclusion? Adam has

petal to finish. The second day saw this wine hold up wonderfully well.

carefully made a delicate expression of a Heathcote Shiraz and Finesse

To be fair, it lacks the power and ripe tannins of a typical Piedmontese

perfectly demonstrates how you can make the best out of a meagre situation.

31

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Blu Point Café

Oddfellows Hotel

Café Little Hut

Rue Bebelons

Chilli Café

Shop 7 Espresso

Chill On Café

Strike

China Bar

NGV (Christopher Reeve - Gallert Kitchen)

Troika Bar

Hawkers Café

Purple Café

York Café

Infinity Café Bar

The Blue Moose Café

Ishikai Japanese Café

The St Kilda Rd Boulevarde Café

Izakaya Den (Basement)

Times Café

Baguette Club

Nelayan Indonesian

The Order

Match

Babbo

Mr Tulk (State Library North)

The European

RUSSELL STREET

Aspro Ble

Hi Fi Bar and Ballroom

Pensione Hotel

Koukos Café

LONSDALE STREET

Gogo Sushi

Krave Lime Café Metrop Café Movo Mod Oz Movo

James Squire Brewhouse King of Kings

SWANSTON STREET

Postal Hall

Beer Deluxe Café Chinotto

GRAM.NET.AU MELBOURNE

ISSUE 28

FREE

There are approx. 1000 distributors throughout Melbourne. For the full list, visit our website at melbourne.gram.net.au.

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