GRAM Magazine: October 2013 // Edition 33

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ISSUE 33

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Gram magazine provides a snapshot of articles, opinions and reviews that have been published online by local food bloggers, bringing the online world into the physical world.

This month

Although each featured blogger has their own unique style and flair,

Check out reviews of Operator25, Ombra Salumi Bar, Short Round

one thing that remains constant is that they all seek to put a positive

and Storm in a Teacup, along with wine reviews, a delicious pavlova

spin on Melbourne’s food and drink scene. We thank the bloggers

recipe, and the latest on the upcoming Taste of Melbourne and King

that have been involved in this issue.

Valley’s La Dolce Vita Food and Wine Festival.

Danielle Gullaci, Editor

GRAM is Food Culture. Compiled. melbourne.gram.net.au

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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON OPERATOR25 (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

OPERATOR25 25 Wills Street, Melbourne. Ph: 9670 3278 Words and photos by Peach-Water

ABOUT PEACH WATER Probably best described as a geek girl who is an avid and active video gamer, prone to

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carnivorous cravings and mad for macarons and cupcakes. When she is not sampling the menu of Melbourne and beyond, she takes delight in designing and progressing

(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

her design portfolio.

WWW.PEACH-WATER.COM

After you finish your morning’s shopping at the Queen Victoria Market,

Valerie, who hosted us, recommended a few dishes for us to try. The first

why not drop by this heritage listed building and enjoy some good coffee

dish that Ting Tangy and I shared was the cold smoked Tasmanian salmon,

and food?

rye toast, lemon crème fraîche, piccalilli and crispy lilliput capers.

Back in the early 1900s, this heritage-listed building was used as

The dish itself screams out spring. A visually appealing dish, with different

Melbourne’s first telephone exchange – but now behind these cobblestone

flavours and textures. Valerie, who is one of the chefs at Operator25, told

walls is Operator25 – a café with a modern rustic ambience.

us that the Tasmanian salmon is cold smoked rather than hot smoked as it stops the salmon from being mushy. She was right – the smoked

To start our mid Sunday morning brunch, my dear cousin Ting Tangy

Tasmanian salmon tasted fresh.

started off with a Koko deluxe hot chocolate, while I settled for a house The rye toast was thinly sliced and toasted until very crisp. What I

blend flat white.

loved most about the dish was in fact the piccalilli which is an English Ting Tangy enjoyed her hot chocolate – it wasn’t overly sweet nor was it

interpretation of Indian pickles. Turmeric gives it the bright yellow colour.

overly rich. A perfect balance for my cousin.

The vegetables used in the pickle were cauliflower, celery, pears and cabbage. It really works the tastes buds. The other interesting element of

At Operator25, they use Code Black coffee beans. The first flat white I had

the dish was the crispy lilliput capers. I like how the capers were fried until

for brunch was a seasonal blend: 50 per cent Kenya Wakulima and 50 per

crispy – it still maintains the flavour of the capers, but is less overpowering

cent Guatemala El Pilar. It was very smooth and velvety.

than if you were to eat them fresh.

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The next dish that Ting Tangy had was the open steak sandwich. When it

under their breakfast menu – you can treat this as a breakfast item or you

arrived, Ting Tangy and I looked at each other and thought, “Oh no – not

can have it as dessert.

another food coma!” Luckily we didn’t end up in a food coma as we shared it.

Prior to visiting Operator25, I checked out Operator25’s Instagram and saw This steak sandwich was epic – huge and full of fresh ingredients. The steak

this dish and knew I had to order it – it’s just too pretty. So many layers of

was cooked perfectly – it was juicy and tender. Ting Tangy and I smothered it

happiness. This dish is very refreshing and healthy.

with a good layer of the horseradish cream to give it a kick.

The first layer consists of a citrus curd, pistachio salted caramel crumbs and While we were eating, Valerie introduced us to Felipe who is one of the

strawberries. The citrus curd has a real tangy taste and opens the palate for

chefs at Operator25. Both Valerie and Felipe have held positions at Bacash

the rest of the dessert, while the pistachio salted caramel crumbs gave it

(awarded one hat in the Good Food Guide) and together they have designed

texture.

a menu that makes you sit there thinking for a very long time. All the dishes sound very appealing.

The second layer was filled with freshly diced mangoes. The serving was generous and very fresh. As for the final layer, it was made up of tonka bean

By the time we finished our steak sandwich we were feeling quite full, but still

and coconut sago. Very light and lightly sweetened.

had a “dessert” dish to try. We told Valerie to hold off on the dish for a bit so that we could digest our food before trying it. While we were resting, I was

Ting Tangy kept talking, so I kept eating and then I just grabbed the whole

lucky enough to have a chat with Randy, who is one of the business partners.

glass and ate the rest of it because I liked it that much.

He introduced me to Mikael who is their head barista. Randy told us that Mikael is a part time model who previously worked for Manchester Press – so

Melbourne’s weather is slowly picking up. With summer just around the

if you want a hot guy serving you coffee, Operator25 is the place to go.

corner, I would highly recommend giving Operator25 a try. It’s located near Flagstaff Gardens. Operator25 offers sophisticated and beautifully presented

While we were chatting, Randy brought over a single origin flat white for me

dishes, along with service that is friendly and attentive.

to try. I really love this single origin blend – it has blueberry and acai notes, giving it a fruity taste. I preferred this over the house blend.

Disclaimer: Peach Water and Ting Tangy dined courtesy of Operator25. All reviews on www.peach-water.com are honest and purely based on my own

The last dish Ting Tangy and I shared was the tonka bean and coconut sago

experiences and how I feel about the service, food and quality at the time

with mango, citrus curd and pistachio salted caramel crumbs. This dish is

of visit.

6

CHRISTMAS COOKING?

Everything a great Chef needs for every occasion

www.chefshat.com.au

La Dolce

Vita

FOOD &

WINE

FESTIVAL

16 & 17 NOVEMBER 2013 BOGGY CREEK VINEYARDS Join Boggy Creek Vineyards for a European themed weekend to celebrate the release of its 2013 Sparkling Rosé. Get your weekend started with all day breakfast served from 10am, French crepés with seasonal berries and ice cream and market fresh Spanish paella cooked on giant pans for all to see (served 12noon – 3pm).

Enjoy Boggy Creek’s Pinot Gris Experience with three styles to try, plus sample the Spanish Tempranillo, Italian Sangiovese, Barbera and Rosé, alongside classics like Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Riesling. Coffee, cake and Gundowring bambini ice cream will be served all day. Groups of eight or more are encouraged to book for lunch. No buses accepted without prior appointment.

Contact Details 1657 Boggy Creek Road, Myrrhee, Victoria Ph: 03 5729 7587 Email: mail@boggycreekwines.com.au Website: www.boggycreekwines.com.au

LA CANTINA While enjoying the King Valley during La Dolce Vita weekend, come and visit the Corsini family at La Cantina’s Tuscan style cellar door. They are very proud of their heritage and traditional winemaking techniques, and invite visitors to taste their vast range of no preservative added wines, including many Italian varietals and the new release 2012 Saperavi. Try some of the delicious homemade Italian food such as the lasagna which features layers of homemade egg pasta sprinkled with a trio of cheeses and a traditional bolognese sauce. The 2011 Sangiovese has a good balance of fruit and oak.

Its dryness and acidity makes it a perfect match for the popular Nonna’s Lasagna.

There will also be a range of activities for the children, live music from 12pm both days and a market brimming with homemade products and local produce.

Contact Details 54 Honey’s Lane, King Valley Ph: 03 5729 3615 Email: info@lacantinakingvalley.com.au Website: www.lacantinakingvalley.com.au

DAL ZOTTO PRIMAVERA DEL PROSECCO As we get ready to say goodbye to winter and welcome the beautiful spring weather, this can mean only one thing in the King Valley – it’s prosecco time!

New release wines for Dal Zotto include 2013 Pinot Grigio, 2013 Arneis and of course the flagship Proseccos – N.V. Pucino and 2013 L’immigrante, as well as the usual favourites. Dal Zotto will feature a Prosecco Cocktail Bar, children’s activities, entertainment and coffee by St. Ali. Dining options include a three course degustation in the Trattoria with matching wines for $75 per person (bookings essential) or a seasonal selection of food including pizzas and desserts. Try a crispy, homemade pizza base topped with kipfler potatoes, roasted garlic, homegrown rosemary and tallegio cheese. Live entertainment all weekend from Paul William Ray and Band, Brad Rumbelow, Prosecco Nights (4-8pm Saturday) and Prosecco Brunch (10am-noon Sunday) with DJ Emlyn Andres.

Contact Details 4861 Wangaratta-Whitfield Road, Whitfield, Victoria Ph: 03 5729 8321 Email: info@dalzotto.com.au Website: www.dalzotto.com.au Facebook: dalzotto.wines Twitter: @dalzottowines

For more information on Wines of the King Valley visit www.winesofthekingvalley.com.au

Join the winemaking families of the King Valley for their annual spring festival, La Dolce Vita, held on 16 and 17 November. Taste the innovative wine styles the region has become renowned for, including new releases of Prosecco, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese and Barbera. Indulge in a range of authentic Italian inspired food including handmade pasta and gnocchi, pizza, seafood and mouthwatering Italian desserts prepared by nonnas and renowned local chefs. Relax and enjoy live music, roving entertainers, gnocchi rolling competitions and Prosecco cocktail bars, all provided with the

welcoming King Valley hospitality and beautiful King Valley views. Participating wineries are Boggy Creek, Chrismont, Dal Zotto, Symphonia, Brown Brothers, Francesco, La Cantina, Lana, Pizzini, Politini and Sam Miranda. To take part in La Dolce Vita, simply purchase a festival tasting glass for $20 at any of the participating wineries over the weekend. This souvenir glass provides entry and wine tastings at all of the participating wineries, along with access to entertainment and activities. For more information or winery menus, please visit www.winesofthekingvalley.com.au.

SYMPHONIA WINES Situated in the picturesque valley of the King River system, Symphonia Wines is excited to take you on a wine tour of the world. The first stop is Northern Italy where you can taste the delightfully crisp Pinot Grigio matched with delicious cheeses including firm grana padano, blue-veined gorgonzola, soft taleggio, tangy provolone and creamy robiola.

Next, take flight to France and be greeted by Symphonia’s Petit Manseng, Savagnin, and Tannat, which is known for its health properties. A journey over to Spain opens the world of Tempranillo to your now well-travelled taste buds. Each destination will have paired regional canapés to further add to the tasting experience.

Bottle a case of wine with your own hands for only $100 per case.

CHRISMONT VIVA LA VITA Live the King Valley life at Chrismont’s Viva la Vita, overflowing with new-wave Mediterranean wines, breathtaking vistas and a menu fond of a European escape, including spinach and ricotta lasagne, classic pasta marinara, Italian pork in umido and hearty salsicce with peperonata. Sip on a delicate Fragolino or lively Moscato with mini fruit pavolva, mango misu or raspberry semifreddo – just a few of the delicious highlights on the dessert menu. Experience a ‘taste of Venice’ at the Bellini Bar with La Zona Prosecco cocktails, or step up to the Riserva Bar to taste European varieties and new releases, including Chrismont’s first Sagrantino. Great coffee by Cloud 9 and an entertainment billing not to be missed with hot covers by ‘Off The Wall’ featuring highlights by Glenn Starr of the Australian Michael Bublé Show. The event will run from 10am - 5pm, Saturday and Sunday.

Contact Details 1699 Boggy Creek Road, Myrrhee, Victoria Ph: 03 5729 7641 Email: sue@symphoniafinewines.com.au Website: symphoniafinewines.com.au Facebook: Symphonia Wines

Contact Details 251 Upper King River Road, Cheshunt, Victoria Ph: 03 5729 8220 Email: info@chrismont.com.au Website: www.chrismont.com.au Facebook: Chrismont Wine

Wines of the King Valley

@WinesofKV

SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON OMBRA SALUMI BAR (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

OMBRA SALUMI BAR 76 Bourke Street, Melbourne. Ph: 9639 1927 Words and photos by Jetsetting Joyce

ABOUT JETSETTING JOYCE Jetsetting Joyce started blogging at Mel: Hot or Not in 2009. It contains honest and

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informative reviews about everything Melbourne – restaurants, bars, theatre, festivals, events, shops and businesses – all written with one decisive criteria in mind - is it Hot

(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

or Not?

WWW.MELHOTORNOT.COM

The Grossi family is quietly making the ‘Paris end’ of Bourke Street their

wine bottles and jars of homemade pickles – a perfect space for imbibing

own (or maybe that should be the Roman end of Bourke Street?) with the

and chatting conspiratorially. Upstairs is more of a sit-down affair, with

addition of Ombra Salumi Bar next door to Grossi Cellar Bar, the Grossi

the prime position being the large table by the window overlooking leafy

Grill and Grossi Florentino.

Bourke Street.

‘SALUMI’ ARE SALTED AND CURED MEATS VS ‘SALAMI’ WHICH ARE DRY CURED SAUSAGES. OMBRA SPECIALISES IN SALUMI WHICH INCLUDES FAMILIAR CURED MEATS LIKE PANCETTA, PROSCUITTO AND SALAMI AS WELL AS LESS FAMILIAR ITEMS LIKE FELINI AND VENTRICINA BUCIA CULO.

The menu is tightly written – with antipasti/cicchetti, salads, salumi, condimenti (pickles), pizza, cheese and dessert all on one sheet.

Before we get started, let’s get one thing straight. ‘Salumi’ are salted and cured meats vs ‘salami’ which are dry cured sausages. Ombra specialises in salumi which includes familiar cured meats like pancetta, proscuitto and salami as well as less familiar items like felini and ventricina bucia culo.

Either way it’s not really somewhere I recommend taking vegetarians.

Ombra is both a grown-up wine bar and a casual, relaxed restaurant – sort of the fun, younger sibling of the other Grossi establishments – and

Almost all of Ombra’s salumi is made in-house while others are produced

in fact it is managed by Guy Grossi’s son Carlo. The narrow downstairs

and aged off-site. To sample a range of their wares I recommend the

area is dim and clubby, with high tables and stools framed by walls of

‘tagliere di salumi’ (three salumi for $18). On Carlo’s recommendation,

KITCHEN

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info@casabottega.com.au casabottega.com.au

11

our marble slab contained a melting prosciutto, strongly gamey venison

still life of sweets displayed in the window. We tried a retro coffee and

salami and rich lonza made from pork loin, for maximum contrast. The

chocolate cake slathered in cream and a very tart mascarpone berry

accompanying focaccia was soft and richly oily, the kind of bread that will

cheesecake ($10 each). The salted caramel profiteroles are calling my

make you throw your no-carbs resolve out the window.

name next time and maybe one of the flaky sugar-dusted crostata.

From the antipasti selection we shared some arancini of the day, crisp

Finally, a word about the service. When we were first arrived Carlo asked

balls hiding nuggets of golden pumpkin in our case ($4 each) and the

us whether we’d like the food to come out in stages. Given that we were

not-to-be-missed 12-hour braised lamb ribs ($16) that had been flash

perched on a small table and had ordered so widely from the menu this

fried, meaning that the meat was crispy and fell easily off the bone

seemed like a sensible option – but what we hadn’t realised was that this

without requiring Neanderthal teeth tearing. It was served with a pot of

meant we waited almost 20-30 minutes between each plate of food and

sticky chilli jam, an unexpected mod Oz culinary touch.

our impromptu drop-in lunch turned into two hours of watch-watching.

So when Carlo asked me how everything was I ventured that while

After some time our third antipasti arrived, a spicy njuda atop some rice

the food was excellent we thought that it came too slowly. He quickly

polenta ($16), which was my least favourite dish as the njuda was stone

apologised and without drama removed our cakes and coffee from the

cold (research indicates that it’s not necessarily supposed to be at that

bill, an unexpected but appreciated gesture. I’m of the view that if a

temperature but correct me if I’m wrong) and the overall textural feel was

restaurateur asks you how everything was they genuinely want to know –

of pappy sameness.

and if you don’t provide constructive criticism where it’s warranted then how can they improve?

There are only three basic pizzas on offer so we chose one of the pizza specials – anchovy, eggplant and chilli ($18). After an inexplicably long

Anyway, Carlo’s management of our complaint turned a rather impatient,

wait it arrived, the base as spectacularly thin as it was possible to imagine

slightly stressful dining experience into a very positive one and as a result

and more on the crispy side than chewy. It was delicious and would make

I will definitely return to Ombra and recommend you try it too. You can

a great sharing meal.

relax and graze on the wine and food for a long lunch or drop in for a quick coffee and some nibbles. Just make sure that if you don’t want to

It’s not possible to walk past Ombra without gawking at the beautiful

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linger for too long that you let them know.

SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON short round (DETAILS ON PG. 3)

Short Round 731 High Street, Thornbury. Ph: 9484 3904 Words and photos by I’m So Hungree

About I’m so hungree I am a Melbournite with a penchant for sweets, eating my way around Melbourne (and

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the world!). I love good food and photography. I also suffer from ‘Oooh Shiny Thing!’ syndrome. My blog is my pretty eating diary and focuses on eating out experiences. I

(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

hope you all enjoy reading as much as I enjoy sharing!

www.imsohungree.blogspot.com

I really don’t mean to be the blogger who’s running from hot new spot to

Fortunately to tide us over, the very kind waitresses made sure we were

hot new spot, but when you’re perving on menus online as much as I do, you

quickly furnished with hot drinks. A lovely looking latte for Brad and an

really can’t help it sometimes.

absolutely delicious soy chai for me (as always). I absolutely loved the cup that the chai was served in, it kind of looked like an egg to me, and I also

Which is what led me to Short Round, a hot new little café open in Thornbury.

adored how spicy and flavoursome the chai was. Incredibly enjoyable.

I hadn’t realised until recently how close Thornbury actually was to me, as in my head it was always a lot further away. Like I said in a previous post, I love

Our hour estimate for food was accurate, and after fluffing around on our

being proven wrong about these things.

phones, talking about current affairs and eventually tiptoeing around some deep and meaningful discussions (for some reason brunch always seems to

Upon reaching Short Round, with its gorgeous open space and simple

bring that out of us), our food all came out at once.

but tasteful décor, I was positively thrilled that we were able to get a seat What had attracted me to Short Round’s menu was how a-typical it was, with

immediately.

only a few familiars to be found on it which had meant that it was really quite However, we were also sympathetically informed upon seating, that due to

hard to not order everything on the menu.

the huge demand this particular weekend (and as they had only just opened) Brad went with the Breakfast Pizza (with a bit of gentle coercing from me),

that the wait for food would actually be an hour.

with egg, pancetta, passata, bocconcini, fresh cherry tomatoes, wild rocket Well, Brad and I were there, we were seated, so we decided to wait it out. Our

and extra virgin olive oil. Covered in a very generous handful of rocket leaves,

waiting habits from America are still strong apparently.

this was way tasty, and the perfect bridge between breakfast and lunch.

We are ‘The Piano Restaurant & Bar’, a new modern Thai restaurant on Bridge Road.

The Piano’s Modern Thai food is created by experienced Thai chefs.

Pre-OPening SPecial *

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all food on the menu *Valid from 22.10.13 - 30.10.13

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18-20 Bridge Road Richmond Phone: 03 9428 9385 www.thepiano.com.au

fully licensed take away delivery private functions

15

Loved the crunchy crust and to me, you really can hardly go wrong with passata. Mmmhmmm.

I already knew what I wanted when I arrived, despite all the yummy looking options on the menu. Being the fritter fiend that I am, I just simply had to try the cauliflower fritters with snow pea shoots, pomegranate molasses and minted yoghurt. Although they looked to be a fairly modest serving, I was surprised with how much these filled me up. I loved the colours on the plate, pomegranate is just so pretty isn’t it?

The fritters were real crunchy around the outside, with quite a rich and salty batter, however this was offset with the yoghurt which was very tart and quite strong as well. Adding a bit of freshness between the two big flavours, the snow peas were a refreshing reprieve and I loved how crisp they were. My only real complaint is that the cauliflower flavour itself was so subtle that it was overpowered by the batter in my opinion.

I’m getting a bit cheeky with my brunches these days, finding it hard to resist the waffle wave that seems to be taking over Melbourne, I mean really, from almost never seeing waffles on a brunch menu, they’re really starting to make a bit of an appearance these days.

here at Short Round they really outdo themselves with the vanilla mascarpone, speckled with vanilla beans throughout. It’s sweet, smooth and so delicious. The only nitpick?

Can I have some more sir?

I mean though, when you see butter-scotch house made waffles with vanilla mascarpone and toasted pecans, you just don’t say no. I’m no waffle expert, in fact I generally find them a touch dry for my tastes in general, which is why I think it’s not really the waffles that are important here, but the toppings.

And here at Short Round they really outdo themselves with the vanilla mascarpone, speckled with vanilla beans throughout. It’s sweet, smooth and so delicious. The only nitpick? Can I have some more sir?

So although there was a wait, I’m not really bothered by it, as we were informed immediately upon sitting and Brad and I chose to stick it out, so that was our decision to deal with the wait. I also totally understand that it was one of their first weekends, and that a couple of things still need to be fine-tuned, you can’t predict for everything now.

The service in the meantime was friendly and helpful, and I loved what Short Round was doing with the menu on a whole. Hopefully a few weeks in they’ll have their stuff sorted out a bit more, so when you visit you’ll have a much shorter wait than I did.

We l ve ...

Pantalica Buffalo Mozzarella The Pantalica Cheese Company has just launched its new Italian Buffalo Mozzarella range. Buffalo mozzarella is made from the milk of water buffalos, which is rich in fat and protein. Although buffalo milk has a higher fat content than cow’s milk, it is lower in cholesterol. Pantalica uses both Italian and locally sourced buffalo milk to produce its delicious buffalo mozzarella, which is soft and creamy, with a stringy texture. Its taste is robust, salty and full flavoured. Layer it with some vine ripened tomatoes and fresh basil, drizzle with some olive oil and enjoy. For more information, please visit www.pantalica.com.au.

OrderMate’s Manager of the Month Lauren Hogan (pictured) is not only one of the managers at Famish’d, she is also responsible for the successful launch of their new site in St James Square – West End. In keeping with the consistency from their premiere site, with the orange insignia and warming wooden furniture, they have been able to create an oasis among the hustle and bustle of Melbourne’s CBD. Only three weeks since opening, Lauren and her team are finally finding their feet and keeping up with the queues of customers lining up out the door. Lauren, who is originally from Newcastle, loves the vibe of Melbourne’s foodie scene and great quality coffee. “As the demand for good coffee continues to climb so does the overall quality of cafés,” she says. For more information, please call 1300 667 067 or visit www.ordermate.com.au.

Allure coffee yoghurt Allure real coffee yoghurt by Tempo is

Modern Love exhibition

made according to a traditional ‘pot set’

The Modern Love exhibition

European recipe, using fresh milk, live

is on at the Bendigo Art

culture and coffee. Recently awarded

Gallery from 26 October until

a Silver Medal by the Dairy Industry

2 February 2014. It showcases

Association of Australia, this coffee

a selection of some of the

yoghurt is one of eight unique flavours,

world’s most influential and

all of which are made to the highest

avant-garde designers from

quality, are creamy and taste delicious.

the past 40 years including

They are made using mouth-watering

Vivienne Westwood, Channel,

fruits and flavours, and are all gluten

Versace, Prada, Alexander

free, non-GM and made from fresh

McQueen, Dior and many

hormone-free milk. Tempo is a growing

more. Bendigo Art Gallery

boutique company. Its operations have expanded, but its acute attention to

has drawn on archival fashion objects from the extensive collection

detail and quality hasn’t changed. The company only uses fresh milk, and there

of the FIDM Museum at the Fashion Institute of Design and

are never any milk powders or modified solids added. For information, please

Merchandising in Los Angeles. For more information, or to purchase

visit www.tempofoods.com.au or email info@tempofoods.com.au.

tickets, please visit www.modernlovebendigo.com.

Competition...

For your chance to win a delicious Certified Free Range Christmas ham, courtesy of Gary’s Quality Meats, visit our website at melbourne.gram.net.au and enter the code word GARY. Entries close at 5pm (AEDT), 4 December 2013. Gary’s Quality Meats is located at Shop 515, Prahran Market, South Yarra.

Win an amazing Christmas ham courtesy of Gary’s Quality Meats!

For information on being featured in our monthly ‘We Love’ section, please contact Lisa Guglielmino on 0425 145 806 or email lisa.guglielmino@primecreative.com.au.

NEWS Adami prosecco Highly esteemed winery Adami was recently named by Decanter Magazine

What’s On

as one of the top prosecco producers. The best-selling Garbèl Brut is produced from vineyards in the prized Conegliano-Valdobbiadene zone that lies close to the high mountains. Adami Prosecco Garbèl DOC is a wonderfully versatile sparkling wine with a well-balanced, full fruity flavour

>0 2 – 03 November 2013 Toast to the Coast

and refreshing crispness. As the least dry of the Adami range, Garbèl is the

Wineries throughout Geelong

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More info: www.winegeelong.com.

panettone and pandoro during Christmas festivities. For more information,

au/toast_to_the_coast

please visit www.enoteca.com.au. RRP $31.80

>0 7 – 10 November 2013 Bendigo Blues & Roots Festival Various venues in Bendigo More info: www.bendigobluesandroots.com.au

> 1 0 November 2013

Merry Cupcakes

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At Merry Cupcakes, it’s not just the

Rippon Lea Gardens,

taste that matters. All cupcakes are

192 Hotham Street, Elsternwick

dairy-free, egg-free and vegan friendly,

More info: www.harvestngraze.com

with gluten-free options also available on Fridays, Saturdays and via special

> 1 4 – 17 November 2013

order. Recipes are designed by Mary,

Taste of Melbourne

who is the founder and a dietician and

Albert Park

nutritionist. These cupcakes are lower

More info:

in saturated fat and sugar, and higher in fibre and nutritional goodness. But never fear, they don’t taste like cardboard either. They are moist, laced with real flavours (as they use real fruit and vegetables where present) and baked daily. Merry Cupcakes is located at 261 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy. For more information, please visit www.merrycupcakes.com.au.

www.tasteofmelbourne.com.au

> 1 6 – 17 November 2013 Johnston Street Festival Johnston Street, Fitzroy

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La Dolce Vita Wineries throughout King Valley More info: www.winesofthekingvalley.com.au

>2 3 – 24 November 2013 Melbourne Cake Expo Melbourne Showgrounds More info: www.cakeexpo.com.au

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November 2013 Paris to Provence French Festival Como House & Garden, South Yarra More info: www.paristoprovence.com.au For more upcoming events, please visit melbourne.gram.net.au.

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Storm in a Teacup 48 Smith Street, Collingwood. Ph: 9415 9593 Words and photos by The Modern Connoisseur

About The Modern Connoisseur The Modern Connoisseur is a website dedicated to maintaining an envious lifestyle. We

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focus on food, bars, events, art and travel. We are a collaborative website that utilises a variety of bloggers, contributors and photographers to cover all things Melbourne.

(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

www.themoderncon.com

Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday 10am – 6pm, and weekend brunch

what next? Dupree was a full-time artist, who gave up her profession to

runs until 3pm.

look after her newborn baby. She knew that she loved food but had no idea about tea. So she set off to Sri Lanka to learn how to appreciate the

It’s a Thursday night and the sun has set. A narrow doorway beckons

intricacies of a good brew, eventually leading to the creation of Storm

those who pass by to enter the sky blue venue, warming those who go

in a Teacup. She compares the delicacy of the flavours to a fine wine,

inside with its dim lighting and intimate feel. The micro tea-shop-come-

and it is obvious that she has come a long way since her journey began.

bar has a warm paint job and is lined with soft leather-topped stools, with foot stands in the shape of a cloud. A petite lady with cherub

It was then we started to really appreciate the flavours of tea, through

cheeks welcomes you warmly with a genuine smile, offering you a drink

a tasting session. First off, a lesson: all tea comes from the same type

of J, G&T (jasmine, gin and tonic). This is the home of Hannah Dupree.

of tree, the Camellia Sinensis. Variations of tea that don’t utilise these

Okay, well maybe not home, but her pride and joy business, which has

particular leaves aren’t in fact tea at all. When the term ‘ancient’ is

recently added cocktails to its menu for a cheeky tipple.

used to describe tea, it is referring to the age of the tree that bears the leaves. In the case of our J,G&Ts, the leaves came from 200 to 400 year

Melbourne is notoriously known for its passion for coffee, but with

old trees from Northern Vietnam.

the help of venues like Storm in a Teacup, the appreciation for tea is starting to come to rise. To celebrate their one year anniversary, Storm

Green tea is also not as horrendously harsh as some would lead us

in a Teacup hosted a blogger’s night, showcasing the beautiful teas and

to believe. The green tea presented to us at Storm in a Teacup was

extraordinary cocktails on offer in this quiet little venue.

much closer to the macha that can be experienced in Japan, but more gentle in flavour. Dupree tells us that timing and temperature is the

The story of Storm in a Teacup spawned from the age old question –

key to making a good brew. Different leaves have different resilience

21

The green tea presented to us at Storm in a Teacup was much closer to the macha that can be experienced in Japan, but more gentle in flavour. Dupree tells us that timing and temperature is the key to making a good brew.

Different leaves have different resilience levels and in this case, green tea is very fragile.

beautifully powerful martini with the gentle tones of green tea running through the flavours. To accompany the cocktails we were served a tasting plate of beautifully oily olives, Pyengana cheddar and wagyu bressaola. Delicious!

The Storm was the next cocktail and it was like drinking punch – strong, fruity and easy to drink. The cloudy colour of the various alcohols and the Sejak Korean Green Tea certainly brought out the storm, with a delicate fish cut out of ginger hovering on the side of our cup.

It was then time for dessert. An incredibly rich chocolate fudge cake with

levels and in this case, green tea is very fragile and she recommends

Tonka bean cream was served with our favourite cocktail of the night –

a water temperature of no higher than 80°C and a soak time of 1-2

Too Drunk To Drive This Russian Caravan. Served with a giant ball of ice,

minutes. Dupree then continues to walk us through tastings of Oolong

the burnt-caramel coloured cocktail was a beautiful combination with

tea (sourced from Taiwan) and traditional black tea (sourced from Sri

a rich chocolate brownie, certainly leaving us in a position of requiring

Lanka). Each brew is beautifully unique and lacks the bitter qualities

a cab home.

that we are used to tasting in store-bought blends.

Storm in a Teacup is a venue that is making tea cool again, providing It was then time to get back to cocktails and we were presented with

ever innovative ways to combine tea with unsuspecting elements such

a magnificent Teatini, made with delectable flavours such as Delord

as food and drinks. The service is friendly, the drinks are strong and the

Blanche Armagnac, Sejak Korean Green Tea and a beautiful topping

venue is intimate. So if you’re looking for somewhere new to try, be sure

of gold leaf. The cocktail certainly packed a real punch and it was a

to step in and be amazed.

22

ROBERT BURNS HOTEL MON - FRI

Recipe: Cardamom Pistachio Sugar Pavlova Recipe and photo by Finger, Fork & Knife

About Finger, Fork and Knife I’m Kate and Finger, Fork and Knife is where I record the recipes that excite, nourish and inspire me. I eat to live

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and live to eat and most of all I love to share my love of

JOIN ROBBIE AFTER WORK FOR HIS FAVOURITE SELECTION OF EVENING REFRESHMENTS

O C ¡C I N E N O! C N I C

55 A T

MOND FR I DAAY TO Y 5PM T I LL 7P M

MAHOU CLASSICA (BEER) VINO RED & WHITE GLASS OF CAVA CIDER PEAR & APPLE SANGRIA SÓLO CINCO DOLARES $5 robertburnshotel.com.au facebook.com.au/robertburnshotel

wholesome, natural ingredients, as well as my passion for food photography and styling.

www.fingerforkknife.wordpress.com

As spring plays hide and seek with us, I have put together a special Finger, Fork & Knife pavlova that sings of warmer days and longer nights. The crisp and chewy cardamom and pistachio meringue base, rich in spice and little green nuggets of chopped pistachios, provides a cloud-like layer beneath the creamy lemon-spiked filling, honey roasted peaches and fresh blueberries.

With a crunchy oat crumble sprinkled on top and a dusting of icing sugar, this pavlova will take you to the spring/summer months of your dreams within seconds.

Serves 10

Ingredients For the cardamom sugar 300g (approx. 1 cup) caster sugar 2 tbsp ground cardamom For the peaches 3 peaches, halved and stoned 1 tbsp honey 1 tbsp Pedro Ximénez (optional)

ROBERT BURNS HOTEL

FLAMENCO LIVE FLAMENCO DANCE

"Tomas Arroquero y su grupo"

Wednesday 13th November

1 tsp vanilla extract $15 SHOW $10 MEMBERS

robertburnshotel.com.au facebook.com.au/robertburnshotel

8

PM SHARP

For the crumble

sugar and butter in a bowl. Pinch together with your fingers until the mixture

½ cup spelt flour

resembles coarse crumbs. Tip onto a baking tray lined with baking paper

¼ cup rolled oats

and bake in the oven for 10-15 minutes, until golden. Remove from oven and

2 tbsp unsalted butter

set aside.

1 tbsp brown sugar

Reduce heat of the oven to 150°C. Combine the sugar and cardamom in a

1 tbsp linseeds

bowl and set aside.

Pinch of sea salt

Wipe the bowl you are going to whisk the egg whites in using the cut side of a lemon – this is to make sure the bowl is free from any oils that might

For the pavlova

interfere with the whipping of the eggs.

6 free range eggs whites

Place egg whites into the bowl and whisk them on medium speed until frothy

Cardamom sugar

and starting to hold firm peaks.

¼ cup pistachios, shelled and finely crushed with a mortar and pestle or in a

With the mixer still running, gradually pour in the cardamom sugar and a

food processor

pinch of salt. Increase the speed of the mixer and whisk on high for 7-8

1 lemon

minutes until the mixture is white, glossy and smooth. To see if the meringue

200ml double cream

is ready, pinch a little bit of the mixture between your thumb and forefinger.

200ml natural yoghurt

If it is grainy then continue to mix until smooth, being careful not to over mix.

Juice and zest of ½ lemon

Gently fold the crushed pistachios into the mixture.

2 punnets fresh blueberries to serve*

Line two baking trays with baking paper. Divide the meringue mixture evenly

Icing sugar to serve

between them and roughly shape each blob into a circle. Pop trays into the oven and bake for 1 hour until the meringue is just coloured – try not to open

*Thaw some frozen blueberries if not in season

the door while the meringue is baking.

Once cooked leave the oven door slightly ajar and let the meringues cool

Method

completely inside the oven.

Whip the cream until soft peaks form, add yoghurt, the juice and zest of

Preheat oven to 180°C. Place peaches into a roasting dish and drizzle with

half a lemon and fold in gently – taste and adjust lemony-ness to your liking.

honey, Pedro Ximénez (if using) and vanilla. Toss to make sure they are

Spoon half the cream mixture on top of one of the meringue halves. Scatter

coated evenly and pop into the oven to bake for 25-30 minutes, until soft

over half of the blueberries, some of the oats and pistachios. Place the other

and caramelised. Remove from oven. When cool enough to handle, slice into

meringue on top and press down gently. Dollop the remaining cream on

quarters. Pop into the fridge until ready to top the finished pavlova.

top and spread out. Arrange peaches on top and sprinkle with remaining

While the oven is still hot, prepare the crumble. Combine flour, oats, linseeds,

blueberries, oats, extra pistachios and a dusting of icing sugar.

SPRING SUNDAY CIDER

SESSIONS

Thurs & Fri happy hour 5-7pm $5 pints, wine & basic spirits

www.hooksattheyarra.com

28

OH WHAT FUN IT IS TO COOK

Everything a great Chef needs for every occasion

www.chefshat.com.au

wine reviews Words and photos by Krystina Menegazzo

About Krystina Menegazzo La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who worked in wineries throughout Australia and Italy. After years of gallivanting she returned to Melbourne to market wine and share her love of all things vinous. In her spare time she enjoys cooking, gardening, drinking good vino and is a self-confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).

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www.ladonnadelvino.com

GÉRARD BOULAY Sancerre Tradition 2011

incredibly silky with a continuation of the berry fruits and a finish of spicy oak

Loire Valley, France. RRP $44.00

and cleansing acidity. Try dishes featuring game, herbs or earthy ingredients

Allow me to take you on a journey to a little town called Chavignol in the area

like mushrooms.

of Sancerre in central France. Therein lies a genuine producer of Sauvignon

Stockist: King & Godfree, Carlton

Blanc grapes named Gérard Boulay, who works his unyielding soil completely by hand. When it comes to the winemaking part, Mr Boulay allows wild yeast to do their magic and in all intervenes minimally. The Sancerre Tradition is made entirely from vineyards owned by Mr Boulay in the Chavignol area with minimum vine age of 30-40 years. The resultant wine is arresting. For someone who is not always enamoured with the Sauvignon Blanc put before them, I found myself pause and look deeper into this wine than I had with

...with aromas of wild berries, winter herbs, violets and hints of leather.

The palate is incredibly silky with a continuation of the berry fruits and a finish of spicy oak and cleansing acidity.

any other example.

On the nose you get elements of freshly cut grass, herbs and cat’s wee (that

MOUNT TOWRONG Nebbiolo 2009

is a classic Sauvignon descriptor, I swear). The palate is zippy and steely at

Mount Macedon, Victoria. RRP $30.00

first with a semi-creamy mid-palate and a lemon peel tang to the finish. It is

When was the last time you received a handwritten letter? These days we

focused with gentleness in flavour and texture. I tried this Sancerre with a

tend to use email or send a text message. However a couple of months ago I

fresh seafood and lemon zest pasta dish, but you could also try oysters with

received a handwritten letter written by the Cremasco family, who own Mount

a squeeze of lemon or a creamy fresh goats cheese.

Towrong vineyards up in the Macedon Ranges. In this letter they explained

Stockist: Rathdowne Cellars, North Carlton

their Italian heritage and the work involved in having three generations planting vineyards on terraced hillsides at 600m above sea level. One of the

NANNY GOAT Pinot Noir 2012

grapes they have devoted their time to is Nebbiolo. I was particularly fond of

Central Otago, New Zealand. RRP $29.00

this bottle at first sighting because it simply says ‘NEB’ in capital font on the

A couple of months ago I attended a wine dinner that was like no other. On

label. As one who has publically labelled themself as a Neb-head (someone

this occasion, guests were paired with other unknown attendees and required

really into Nebbiolo), there was an immediate attraction.

to prepare the entrée for the evening in a MasterChef-style competition.

This Macedon Ranges Nebbiolo pours with a thick, saucy ruby red hue.

Everybody’s competitive streak emerged and teams banded together to

As I put my nose into the glass I am drawn to imagery of the band Guns

create their most flavoursome dish out of the ingredients provided. In the

N’ Roses. This is because there is a flinty and floral element coming from

end and to my delight, our team won as we best matched the dish with the

the wine before me. Overlaying that there are aromas of herbs and spice.

feature wine by Nanny Goat on offer.

While Mount Towrong’s version may lack true Nebbiolo structure, there is

Nanny Goat is a great young winery located down in Central Otago. The

still enough weight on the palate with a hint of vanilla flavour to make this

area is renowned for making densely coloured and elegant Pinot Noir.

wine incredibly moreish. This is a unique and delicious Nebbiolo with high

The example from Nanny Goat only goes to enhance this reputation, with

but balanced levels of acidity and smooth texture to finish. Neb-head happy.

aromas of wild berries, winter herbs, violets and hints of leather. The palate is

Stockist: Direct from Mount Towrong online

31

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