GRAM.NET.AU MELBOURNE
ISSUE 34
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Gram magazine provides a snapshot of articles, opinions and reviews that have been published online by local food bloggers, bringing the online world into the physical world.
This month
Although each featured blogger has their own unique style and flair,
In this issue, we feature the recently held Melbourne leg of the Gelato
one thing that remains constant is that they all seek to put a positive
World Tour, as well as reviews of Barry, Tom Thumb, Zumbo Patisserie,
spin on Melbourne’s food and drink scene. We thank the bloggers
NBHD Neanderthal, Aka Siro and Young Bloods Diner. Also inside is a
that have been involved in this issue.
delicious Syrian chicken recipe and wine reviews.
Danielle Gullaci, Editor
GRAM is Food Culture. Compiled. melbourne.gram.net.au
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From time to time we’ll add additional links, stories and giveaways on our Facebook and Twitter sites. Follow us and stay up to date with the odds and ends about eating and drinking in Melbourne. Gram magazine is owned by Prime Creative Media and published by John Murphy. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content. Editor: Danielle Gullaci Email: danielle.gullaci@primecreative.com.au Group Sales Manager: Brad Buchanan Phone: 0413 672 403 Email: brad.buchanan@primecreative.com.au
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BARRY 85 High Street, Northcote. Ph: 9481 3371
SCHWEPPES AGRUM COLLECTION CITRUS BLEND
Words and photos by Petit Miamx
ABOUT PETIT MIAMX Catherine has a penchant for all things fun and delicious with a large part of her day spent thinking about food – if she’s not eating, then she’s thinking about the next opportunity for a big foodie blowout. Her love of food
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Harnessing the natural oils of grapefruits and a hint of mandarin, Schweppes Agrum Collection Citrus Blend has a fresh zesty finish crafted for the adult palate.
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also translates through to her travels around the world, sharing her experiences in her ‘petite travel guide’ series.
WWW.PETITMIAMX.COM.AU
It’s something to celebrate when the weather is amazing on the weekends and for once, you can go out and enjoy it instead of being cooped up in the office. Our plans to head out to the wineries fell through so instead we decided to bask in the sun and enjoy some food. Northcote is a new dining hotspot that I am more than happy to venture out to these days and Barry is the new kid on the block (coincidently, right next to Merricote, another favourite of mine). You may recognise the clean, bright and simplistic aesthetic of Barry, along with Touchwood and Pillar of Salt – they have all been opened up by the same people. We arrived slightly after Bestie S, so by that time, she had already nabbed a table after a brief wait outside. Bestie S chose the weather-appropriate iced coffee with honey, which towards the end overwhelmed her with the milkiness of it and possibly by the size of it too.
DESPITE BEING VERY HEALTHY, THE FRESH ELEMENTS AND FLAVOURS OF THE DISH MADE IT STAND OUT AND THE SWEET POPS OF POMEGRANATE CONTRASTED WELL AGAINST THE BRINY STRIPS OF CUCUMBER AND GIN CURED OCEAN TROUT. I had originally wanted to order the cucumber and gin cured ocean trout with freekeh, cauliflower, pomegranate, coriander, kale and a soft boiled egg, however Mr A also made the decision to order it so I changed my mind so that we would be able to sample more dishes. It was Mr A’s fortune that I did because as soon as he took a bite out of the salad, he demanded a dish swap claiming it was too healthy. In the end, we both lucked out as I loved the dish. Despite being very healthy, the fresh elements and flavours of the dish made it stand out and the sweet pops of pomegranate contrasted well against the briny strips of cucumber and gin cured ocean trout. There were plenty of super foods in this salad so I’ll be keeping this one in mind for future recreations for work lunches.
Schweppes, Devices and Agrum are trade marks used under licence in Australia by Schweppes Australia Pty Ltd.
Mr A and I enjoyed our coffees, both robust and strong as requested.
Bestie S went for the eggs benny which came with a delicious, buttery
enjoyed the 961 pale ale at Bayte so they decided to give the red ale a
potato rosti and ham hock, which was so flaky it fell apart. The hollandaise
try. They thought it was okay but actually preferred the pale ale instead.
was light and tangy without an overwhelming richness to it, perhaps
The prosecco was perfect for the afternoon – a nice finish without being
due to the apple cider in it, and finished with granny smith apples which
overly sweet.
helped to freshen up the dish.
BESTIE S WENT FOR THE EGGS BENNY WHICH CAME WITH A DELICIOUS, BUTTERY POTATO ROSTI AND HAM HOCK, WHICH WAS SO FLAKY IT FELL APART. THE HOLLANDAISE WAS LIGHT AND TANGY WITHOUT AN OVERWHELMING RICHNESS TO IT.
I enjoyed my time at Barry and the airy ambience was so ideal for the great weather. I loved my meal and found that the pricing was on par with the dearer cafés in Melbourne (just over $20 per person for food and a coffee).
HERBY SALSA VERDE HELPED CUT THROUGH THE ACIDITY OF THE TOMATO SUGO (A TYPE OF FRESH TOMATO BASED SAUCE).
The baked eggs, as recommended by our waiter, were more to Mr A’s
Service was great however they did take a while to notice us at times;
tastes. We ordered it with a serve of the pork and apple sausages for
completely understandable considering how busy they were that day.
extra protein and the flavour was really great. I found that the herby salsa
I wouldn’t hesitate to come back as the other dishes that passed by
verde helped cut through the acidity of the tomato sugo (a type of fresh
throughout our meal looked so appetising.
tomato based sauce). While Mr A thought his dish was okay, he was much more satisfied with it, in lieu of his original dish.
Food: 8.5/10 Service: 8/10
We decided to kill another hour by having a relaxing drink before heading
Value: 7.5/10
out to meet others for an afternoon tipple. Bestie S and Mr A had recently
Will I return? Yes, I really enjoyed my visit.
6
CHRISTMAS COOKING?
Everything a great Chef needs for every occasion
www.chefshat.com.au
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TOM THUMB 53 Flinders Lane, Melbourne Words and photos by ForkSake
ABOUT FORKSAKE I’m Ricky. Growing up around restaurants, good food never really amazed me... until
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I got kicked out and had to decide what to eat on my own. I discovered fast food is not so great. So here I am, appreciating good food on a whole new level – and eating,
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photographing and writing about it.
WWW.FORKSAKE.COM
From those trendy fellas who brought us Clement Coffee and Duchess of
office for a couple of hours. A perfect thinking spot for me, a perfect
Spotswood, this ‘hole-in-the-wall’ espresso joint has got it all going on.
making-out spot for the couple behind me and an intimate catch up spot for the older ladies on the other table.
The boys are experts in creating the upmost trendy places serving fine coffee and delivering a joyous experience. The menu at Tom Thumb
The spiced pork sausage with a fried egg on sourdough was nostalgic.
includes classic breakfasts, fresh sandwiches for lunch and delicious
It hugged my tastebuds and warmed the cockles of my heart. A simple
sweets.
menu that tastes homemade without all the hard work. Serving classics such as toast, muesli (organic), fried eggs, baked beans, crumpets and
Great coffee from Clement Coffee is served featuring their Pony blend
the latest rave – truffles.
and a single origin. The first sip is a pleasant reminder of how coffee should taste: delicate, smooth and delicious. The rest is just bliss.
So whether you are looking for a perfect thinking spot, a place to make out or catch up with your old ladies – Tom Thumb is the place. Rumour
The ‘hole-in-the-wall’ expands to a cosy upstairs area which became my
has it they could be opening at night soon too. Stay tuned.
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GELATO WORLD TOUR Words and photos by My Fair Melbourne
ABOUT MY FAIR MELBOURNE My Fair Melbourne is written by Melbourne corporate Melissa Lirosi whose daily life involves
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slurping steaming coffee on her way to work, shovelling pink sashimi into her mouth before her 2pm teleconference and plucking plump dumplings from bamboo steamers on Friday nights. MFM compiles Melissa’s views and reviews on the glorious food, fashion and events in her fair city.
WWW.MYFAIRMELBOURNE.WORDPRESS.COM
Ominous grey clouds and a chilly breeze didn’t stop hordes of hungry Melbourne gelato lovers from flocking to the Gelato World Tour in Carlton on the last weekend of October. Over 70,000 people grabbed their gelato spoons and headed to the event, an international competition and festival dedicated to the production (and consumption) of artisan gelato. Together, we consumed 50,000 cups and 80,000 cones of gelato over three days – that is 130,000 serves of gelato. It was a weekend to be remembered, leaving thousands of sugar highs, cardboard cups and little multi coloured fluorescent gelato spoons in its wake.
THE LINE FOR GELATO MESSINA’S FLAVOUR ‘CREMINO’ – A SALTED CARAMEL GELATO WITH HAZELNUT FUDGE, CRUSHED AMARETTI AND FRESH MERINGUE – WAS AROUND 20 MINUTES LONG. I JUMPED STRAIGHT IN THAT LINE AS SOON AS I ARRIVED. But it wasn’t just about getting all giddy on the sweet stuff. The GWT is an international artisan gelato competition travelling to eight cities around the world. Melbourne hosted the Oceania stage of the tour where 16 artisans from Australia and New Zealand competed for a spot in the world finals in Italy. Judging was determined 50 per cent by a technical jury (headed by Guy Grossi in Melbourne) and 50 per cent by public vote. I attended the GWT on the Sunday in the afternoon. At least four marquees were set up serving the contestants’ creamy creations. Patrons were given voting cards and the lines for the tastings stretched far into Argyle Square. It was clear which flavours the public were most excited about from the size of the queues snaking through the crowd and the persistent nudging and elbowing. The line for Gelato Messina’s flavour ‘Cremino’ – a salted caramel
gelato with hazelnut fudge, crushed amaretti and fresh meringue – was
The awards ceremony was held at 3pm and the competitors were all smiles
around 20 minutes long. I jumped straight in that line as soon as I arrived.
and nerves as they sat in the crowd proudly donning their chef hats and waiting for the all important announcement. Gelato Messina’s Donato Toce
The ‘Cremino’ was a contradiction, a creamy super sweet gelato with a
and Simone Panetta took out first prize with their flavour ‘Cremino’ which
strong salt finish. The hazelnut fudge was generously folded throughout
was voted best by both the technical jury and the discerning public. I was
and was dense, almost chewy in texture. I loved the salt which really
thrilled that my favourite flavour, ‘Mandorla Affogato’, came in second.
intensified and lifted the flavours in the gelato. Overall though I found the ‘Cremino’ a little too sweet for my taste, but it was the clear crowd favourite on the day. Next up I went for the entry by New South Wales’ John Crowl (of Cow and the Moon). The flavour ‘Mandorla Affogato’ is a Madagascan vanilla bean gelato with roasted caramelised coffee almonds and a coffee
THE COFFEE ALMONDS WERE A FANTASTIC ADDITION. ROASTED AND COATED WITH A CRUNCHY CARAMEL TOFFEE THEY WERE A WONDERFUL PUNCTUATION TO THE CREAMINESS OF THE VANILLA GELATO. THIS GELATO WAS TRULY DIVINE.
caramel sauce. The vanilla gelato was smooth and creamy with lashings of delicious strong and sweet coffee syrup. The coffee almonds were a
Third place went to Diana Kontoprias of Frangipani Gelato (Cronulla,
fantastic addition. Roasted and coated with a crunchy caramel toffee they
NSW) with her Aussie inspired ‘Pavlova’ flavour made with passionfruit
were a wonderful punctuation to the creaminess of the vanilla gelato. This
and meringue.
gelato was truly divine, by far my favourite gelato of the day. The Gelato World Tour will now go on to visit Dubai, Sao Paolo, Shanghai, My friend sampled the Deconstructed Kaya Toast flavour by Min Chai of
Austin and Berlin ahead of the grand final to be held in Rimini, Italy
N2 Extreme Gelato which has recently opened its first Melbourne store on
in September next year. All three winners from the Oceania stage will
Brunswick Street in Fitzroy. Kaya toast is a Malaysian spread made with
compete in Rimini where finalists from each country will go head to head
eggs, sugar and coconut milk. I have to say I have never tried Kaya spread
for the seriously impressive title of ‘World’s Best Gelato’.
but I would love to. I heard murmurings in the crowd that this gelato was quite good. Unfortunately I was so enamoured with my Mandorla Affogato
The Gelato World Tour was brought to us by Sigep and Carpigiani
that I didn’t manage to score a mouthful.
University.
12
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14
ZUMBO PATISSERIE 14 Claremont Street, South Yarra Words and photos by Poppet’s Window
POPPET’S WINDOW I’m not the kind of gal who’s lost for words very often. When I’m not copywriting for clients or scribbling down feature stories, I’m eating. Sometimes I do both at the same time. By combining my passion for prose, my fascination with food and my fervour for photography, I hope to leave an impression on more than just your taste buds.
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WWW.POPPETSWINDOW.COM
Opening hours: Daily from 7am until 7pm or sold out On a weekly basis I have one of those meetings that completely and utterly drains you. Remaining switched on conjures memories of trying desperately not to fall asleep up the back of the lecture theatre following a last minute Sunday session the previous day. All of your energy stores are empty. Your glucose is non-existent, and the only way to fix the situation is with a serious sugar hit. Earlier this week, my saving grace came in the form of a visit to Zumbo Patisserie in South Yarra.
ON A WEEKLY BASIS I HAVE ONE OF THOSE MEETINGS THAT COMPLETELY AND UTTERLY DRAINS YOU... ALL OF YOUR ENERGY STORES ARE EMPTY. YOUR GLUCOSE IS NON-EXISTENT, AND THE ONLY WAY TO FIX THE SITUATION IS WITH A SERIOUS SUGAR HIT. EARLIER THIS WEEK, MY SAVING GRACE CAME IN THE FORM OF A VISIT TO ZUMBO PATISSERIE IN SOUTH YARRA.
Zumbo rose to fame in Sydney following numerous MasterChef appearances
before midday, and given that punters had queued from 5am to get their
by now celebrity chef and owner, Adriano Zumbo. The Melbourne store
hands on a cronut or two on opening day, it was hardly surprising to see
opened last month to an unnecessary amount of hype. We rocked up just
people lining up for sweet treats before lunchtime.
15
Upon entering, we were intrigued to find a glitzy space with a nightclub feel.
I found the garish décor detracted from dessert – it was only after gawking at
Aside from some pink benches, bulbous with foam coated in plastic in an
the glowing neon ‘Zumbo’ sign and mirrored walls and ceiling that I noticed
attempt to look like globs of cake batter and icing, or something similarly
the sweets. Zumbo is not designed to be comfortable; it’s a business model
Wonka-esque, there are only two tables. Both are outside, and outside is not
designed to get people in the front door, to the front counter, at the cash
somewhere you ever want to be in Claremont Street (unless of course you
register, and then out again. On that particular day, I was in no mood to rush.
have an urge to come down with a cold, ruin your hair from gale force winds
We parked ourselves on a fairy floss bench seat and placed our loot in a line,
or show the world your underwear when wearing a skirt).
sans table, once we had ordered.
KITCHEN
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MONDAY 16 DEC 16
64 Sutton Street, North Melbourne VIC 3051 Bookings 9322 4750 9322 4755
info@casabottega.com.au casabottega.com.au
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Ordering is no easy feat at Zumbo. You have to stand on tiptoes and glimpse through the gaps between people and above prams if you want to see the display. The counter is divided into a few sections. The far left features smallish cakes that range from $25 to $29. The peanut butter and capsicum option had me simultaneously curious and disgusted. I skipped over to the $9 individual cakes. Deciding which to choose was tricky in a ‘kid-in-a-candy-store’ kind of way. The carrot/cheesecake concoction complete with a secret garden on top, and the endearingly named Annoying Orange Cake, dragged out my decision.
WITH SO MANY PEOPLE NOW TAKING A FRESH LOOK AT THEIR FOOD CHOICES, THERE ARE MANY SPECIALTY MENUS AVAILABLE IN MELBOURNE THAT ARE ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS.
MERRY CUPCAKES
I DIDN’T WANT TO LIKE SOMETHING THAT LOOKED SO MANUFACTURED, BUT IT WAS BLOODY GOOD. THE MOUSSE WAS LIGHT AND AIRY WITH LAYERS OF INGREDIENTS HIDDEN WITHIN: CHUNKS OF APPLE, A NUTTY CRUNCH AND A BISCUIT BASE TO HOLD IT ALL TOGETHER.
At Merry Cupcakes, it’s not just the taste that matters. All cupcakes are dairy-free, egg-free and vegan-friendly, with gluten-free options on Fridays, Saturdays, and via special order. Recipes are designed by Mary, who is the founder and a dietitian and nutritionist. These cupcakes are lower in saturated fat and sugar, and higher in fibre and nutritional goodness. But never fear, they don’t taste like cardboard either. They are moist, laced with real flavours (as they use real fruit and vegetables where present) and baked daily.
I eventually settled on a squat, yellow cylinder dubbed ‘Apple Fields’. It was the promise of malt shortbread, sunflower praline crunch, honey carameux, sunflower chiffon cake, toasted apple jelly compote and apple mousse that hooked me. I didn’t want to like something that looked so manufactured, but it was bloody
261 BRUNSWICK STREET, FITZROY WWW.MERRYCUPCAKES.COM.AU
good. The mousse was light and airy with layers of ingredients hidden within: chunks of apple, a nutty crunch and a biscuit base to hold it all together.
SOUL FOOD CAFÉ But a sugar fix is not a sugar fix without some form of chocolate. At Zumbo it was the Non Che Nudo Ka flourless chocolate cake, encased in a flawless green dome with silky vanilla macaron mix, almond milk gel, earthy olive oil gel and some tang courtesy of Bergamot mousse. It was more impressive than Apple Fields, but not as enjoyable. We also ordered a ‘Zumbaron’ each, just in case we didn’t have enough sugar on our hands already. The finger bun macaron brought back memories of handing over a $2 coin in exchange for my favourite after-school treat at Bakers’ Delight. Initially there was the subtle taste of doughy cake batter, followed by a nostalgic hit of coconut. But it was the pandan and sticky rice macaron that took out first prize, tasting like a tropical Asian holiday complete with sweet, jammy grains of rice. I couldn’t fault the texture or appearance of either. In terms of the desserts themselves, my expectations were exceeded. They were much better than when I sampled them in Sydney, although the Melbourne store is a different concept from the dessert train at The Star. As for the space – let’s just say I’d recommend getting in and out of there as quickly as possible, and I get the inkling that’s exactly how they want you to feel. Shockingly, despite the amount of sugar we ingested, neither of us actually felt ill. No one can deny that the deserts are expertly crafted – light and fluffy without being overly sweet – or maybe my sugar levels really were that low after that meeting. But would I return? For sure. If I needed a takeaway treat and there was a car park within 100 metres.
Renovated six months ago, this local hideaway shows off community art over breakfast, lunch, dinner and private functions. Beans, grains, spices and herbs create soul food, which is predominantly vegetarian. Organic produce is used wherever possible, including some recently introduced organic meat options and organic pizza bases made fresh in the kitchen. There is also a range of vegan and gluten free sweets, coffee and brilliant chai tea, and local and interstate brews on tap. Just around the corner from the hustle of Brunswick Street, this local vegan hub deserves a visit. 273 SMITH STREET, FITZROY
PALEO SNACKS The paleo diet, or caveman diet, is a holistic way of eating that attempts to mimic the eating of humans some 10,000 years ago during the Paleolithic period. Paleo Snacks, Australia’s original and most trusted supplier of paleo foods, promotes a nutrient dense diet rich in meats, seafood, eggs, vegetables, fruit, berries, nuts and seeds. Processed foods and foods supplemented with refined sugars, additives, preservatives and chemicals are excluded. Paleo Snacks are filled with 100 per cent primal goodness to keep you feeling great and performing at your optimum. WWW.PALEOSNACKS.COM.AU
We l ve ... GREAT MAS CHRIST EA GIFT ID
ALLURE COFFEE YOGHURT Newly released Allure real coffee yoghurt by Tempo is made to a traditional ‘pot set’ European recipe, using only fresh milk,
PERSONAL CLASSES WITH A MASTER BUTCHER
live culture and coffee. Recently awarded a Silver Medal by the Dairy Industry
Gary McBean knows meat and he knows it well. A fourth generation butcher who
Association of Australia, this coffee yoghurt is one of eight
grew up in a butcher shop, Gary is a Master Butcher who appeared on the latest
unique flavours, all of which are made to the highest quality,
season of MasterChef.
are creamy and taste absolutely delicious. They are made
He also has a passion for teaching others the skills required to break down their
using mouth-watering fruits and flavours, and are all gluten
own meat and choose the most suitable cuts for cooking. Gary’s enthusiasm for
free, non-GM and made from fresh hormone-free milk. Tempo
doing the job the right way and teaching others from his many years of experience
is a growing boutique company. Its operations may have
is obvious. “If you want to get the best results from your cooking, start with the
expanded, but its acute attention to detail and quality hasn’t
best ingredients, prepared the correct way, and you’ll get the outcome you’re
changed at all. Tempo still creates all of its products as if
looking for,” he says.
they were made in a home kitchen. The company only uses
Gary’s Quality Meats now has gift vouchers available for butchery classes that are
fresh milk, and there are never any milk powders or modified
hosted by Gary himself – a perfect Christmas gift for any foodie. See the selection
solids added. “When they say real, they mean real!” For more
of available classes at WWW.ORGANICBUTCHERMELBOURNE.COM. Gary’s Quality
information, please visit WWW.TEMPOFOODS.COM.AU or
Meats is located at Shop 515, Prahran Market. Call 9826 0815.
email INFO@TEMPOFOODS.COM.AU.
SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET When Colin Hutson was a toddler, he loved to play in the boxes his presents came in rather than with the actual gifts. He found joy in the simplest of materials and learnt to be very resourceful. And so began the genesis of White Moose, inspired by Colin’s love of reusing and reinventing materials. White Moose officially began with one product which was sold on the top of a small wooden box at the Rose Street Market in Fitzroy. Now Colin occupies stall 220 at South Melbourne Market selling unique, sustainable and surprising homewares, accessories and great gifts made predominantly from materials that no longer have a place in our lives. Most items are one of a kind and made in Melbourne, however others are also sourced all over the world from creative individuals who hold the same reinventing nature as White Moose. For more information, please visit WWW.SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU.
WIN DONNA HAY’S LATEST COOKBOOK ‘THE NEW CLASSICS’
Competition... For your chance to win a copy of Donna Hay’s latest cookbook The New Classics, visit our website at melbourne.gram.net.au and enter the code word CLASSICS. Entries close at 5pm (AEDT), 18 December 2013.
For information on being featured in our monthly ‘We Love’ section, please contact Lisa Guglielmino on 0425 145 806 or email lisa.guglielmino@primecreative.com.au.
What’s On CHRISTMAS COFFEE & CHEER BINDLE
> 06 NOVEMBER – 26 FEBRUARY 2013
A gift concept to be cherished, as it takes the mania out
Queen Victoria Night Market
of Christmas gift giving. No more pounding the pavement for gifts that then need to be wrapped and posted.
Wednesdays 5pm-10pm
These exquisite essentials for the festive season are
Corner Elizabeth and Victoria
already gift‑boxed with Bindle’s signature wrapping, and
Streets
delivery is included in one seamless online operation. The
More info: www.qvm.com.au
contents are also locally designed and made and Bindle
> 28 NOVEMBER - 19 DECEMBER 2013
has excelled at sourcing the best. A sliver of the Trentham Tucker Panforte is the perfect accompaniment to an
Kris Kringle Night Market
espresso made from locally roasted Axil coffee beans,
Thursdays 5.30pm – 10pm
served in a ceramic cup from the Robert Gordon barista
Northcote Town hall
range. In return, your gift from Bindle this Christmas will
M ore info:
be more time to be spent with friends.
www.northcotetownhall.com.au
For more information, please visit WWW.BINDLE.COM.AU or email INFO@BINDLE.COM.AU.
ORDERMATE’S WAITRESS OF THE MONTH The Quarter is one of the bustling restaurants on iconic Degraves Street. Since its reopening in March this year, it has been the perfect spot to watch the colourful characters of Melbourne while enjoying a cappuccino accompanied by
>0 1 – 22 DECEMBER 2013 Ben & Jerry’s Openair Cinema South Beach Reserve, St Kilda More info: www.openaircinemas.com.au
>0 3 DECEMBER 2013
a slice of one of their signature cakes. Natalie
Square Dinner
Powell has been chosen to be OrderMate’s
Federation Sqaure
Waitress of the Month for her fun loving aura
More info: www.fedsquare.com/
and capability to handle a busy shift. She
events/square-dinner
describes her feelings of the staff dynamics as being like “one big family”. She explains
>0 7 DECEMBER 2013
that the tight bond she has with the owners
Ales on the Ovens Craft
and staff is what has kept her there for over
Beer Festival
a year. On her nights off Natalie’s poison of
Wangaratta Showgrounds
choice is a glass of Jameson with ice and a dash of water – Cheers to Natalie! For more information, call 1300 667 067 or visit WWW.ORDERMATE.COM.AU.
More info: www.alesontheovens.com.au
>2 4 DECEMBER 2013 Christmas Eve Dinner at The Point
THE WINESMITHS Bringing a fresh and modern approach to the retro cask wine, The Winesmiths has released four wine varietals in convenient two litre boxes – Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Tempranillo and Shiraz. Made in the Barossa, each wine features 100 per cent South Australian grapes and is
Aquatic Drive, Albert Park Lake More info: www.thepointalbertpark.com.au For more upcoming events, please visit melbourne.gram.net.au.
packaged in an easy-to-carry cask comprised of 75 per cent recycled materials. Once opened, the wine stays fresh for over three weeks. RRP $18.99. For more information, please visit WWW.THEWINESMITHS.COM.
TWEE T, TWE ET! @Melb FoodF iles: Big to @G thanks RAMm agazin tickets e for th to @ta e s te today! melbo urne Perfec t day fo my litt r it with le sis :)
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NBHD NEANDERTHAL 153 Commercial Road, South Yarra. Ph: 9826 4880 Words and photos by Gastrology
ABOUT GASTROLOGY Gastrology is a Melbourne-based blog about food and other deliciously related things. They travel around Melbourne and sometimes beyond, enjoying food and wine along the way and reporting back to their readers.
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Cuisine: breakfast/brunch, coffee, modern Australian
– cold brew coffee on nitro. The nitrogen charged cold brew ‘on tap’ is
Overall impression: 8/10
poured from a beer tap and served tall over ice. The end result is a complex, smooth, full-bodied brew with a bright juiciness, low acidity and a long
Having opened in late 2012, NBHD Neanderthal is fast becoming one of South Yarra’s favourite coffee haunts. The café is a collaboration between two brothers, Nicholas and Dax Byrne and reflects their belief that good food + good friends = good times. Having experienced a wonderful Sunday brunch at NBHD Neanderthal, we think they’ve got the equation spot on. Occupying an unassuming shop-front on Commercial Road, and inspired by the music, cultures and people who surround them, the two brothers have
chocolate caramel finish – perfect as the weather heats up.
NBHD NEANDERTHAL HAS GONE SEVERAL STEPS FURTHER WITH AN AUSTRALIAN FIRST – COLD BREW COFFEE ON NITRO. THE NITROGEN CHARGED COLD BREW ‘ON TAP’ IS POURED FROM A BEER TAP AND SERVED TALL OVER ICE.
opened a refreshingly different café in the mould of an eclectically styled clubhouse. Inside you will find an atmosphere that genuinely expresses
Given the passion Nicholas and Dax have for coffee, it is unsurprising that
Nicholas and Dax’s personalities, and speaks of their creativity and journey
their ‘regular’ coffees are also of the highest standard. Apart from the
from humble beginnings.
excellent coffee, NBHD Neanderthal also serves up a delicious menu.
While cold drip coffee has become a staple in the Melbourne coffee scene,
Salmon on rye with two poached eggs served with fresh spinach, ricotta,
NBHD Neanderthal has gone several steps further with an Australian first
salmon and beetroot infused hollandaise – the smoked salmon was fresh,
21
the ricotta was creamy and the egg was perfectly poached. The creamy
Hotcakes with maple syrup and candy bacon – this dish wantonly
runny egg yolk complemented the salty smoked salmon and the whole
disregards the current trend toward healthy eating and, as a result, is
dish was brought together by the beetroot infused hollandaise.
decadently delicious. Light hot cakes are drizzled with maple syrup and adorned with thickly cut slices of candied pork belly.
Slow braised lamb shanks served with mashed potato, beef jus and topped with Persian fetta, pistachio crumble and baby micro herbs
The excellent coffee (including the Nitro cold brew coffee on tap),
– the lamb shanks were the highlight of our afternoon, combining
the delicious menu and the authentically cool atmosphere of NBHD
flawless texture with superlative flavours. Superbly slow braised, the
Neanderthal means we cannot wait to come back.
tender meat of the lamb shanks fell delicately off the bone. The subtle pistachio crumble and mild Persian fetta melded stunningly with the
After chatting with Nicholas and Dax, it is clear they are self-confessed
dreamy mash and jus.
coffee geeks. But when it comes to coffee, being a geek is cool.
22
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AKA SIRO 106 Cambridge Street, Collingwood. Ph: 9417 0886 Words and photos by Fatboo ABOUT BRYAN I’m an inquisitive foodie with an Asian palate. I love how food brings people together.
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There is a story behind every meal and I’m constantly trying to find it. Please join my Melbourne-based food journey and let’s get fat together.
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There’s something about Collingwood that seems to suit the Japanese
fragrant roast brown rice green tea, while I had a sweet cup of homemade
subculture in Melbourne. I can’t pinpoint it… but there’s this urban soul to the
warm lemonade.
area that fits very well, which could be why we’ve seen places like CIBI, Mina No Ie and a few other fabulous Japanese style shops taking residence there.
Both Castletime and myself gravitated towards the fried tofu with sweet potato, eggplant, shimeji mushrooms, simmer with spicy miso and dashi
A kind-hearted friend of mine, Castletime, hasn’t been featured in this blog
stock – what’s there not to like about that? But I ended up choosing
for years. Our last catch-up was two years ago. Back then, I was sad seeing
something else so that we could share and sample more things. This dish
a good friend leave Melbourne. But he’s back now, and it shows how quickly
came with a tangy, slightly spicy sauce. And in a way, I was glad I ended up
years pass by and how sometimes, good things come back into your life.
not getting it because the sauce was on the gooey side.
Neither of us are Japanese, but we’re fans of its culture and cuisine. So when
The miso soups that came with our lunch sets were very good, served hot
I suggested we catch up at Aka Siro, Castletime got as excited as I was.
and flavoursome with supple squares of wakame seaweed and delicious
I stumbled past this Japanese eatery about a year ago after brunching at
pieces of good quality tofu. The salad was great too – simple, healthy and
Mina No Ie across the road. It took me a year, but I’m finally here.
tangy. We really liked the sweet-vinegary (grated carrot?) dressing.
We both loved the detailed little touches in the Japanese café, from the rustic
Our lovely waitress mentioned they had tonkatsu (deep-fried crumbed
wooden benches to the patterned blue cushions, the minimalistic wood-
pork) on their menu as a special for five days only, so naturally I picked
framed windows, and the simple but appealing tableware and knick knacks
that. It was pretty enjoyable – crispy with good flavour. Of course it doesn’t
on the shelves and display cabinets. And as customers, we instinctively
compare with Gypsy & Pig’s kurobuta (Berkshire pork) offerings, but it came
added to the decorative touches here by placing on our spacious white
pretty close to it. I liked how very generous they were with my serve of pork.
table, our much-loved geeky gadgets and my ‘Korean gangster’ sunglasses.
Castletime had to help me finish.
The lunch menu consists of a small selection of affordably priced Teishoku,
I had a very enjoyable lunch here. It is a comfortable place with lovely staff,
which is essentially a bento-like set meal (minus the bento box), where you
a bright and peaceful ambience, and a thoughtful menu with portion sizes
get a main dish with miso soup, salad and rice. For drinks, Castletime got a
that don’t make you leave the place still hungry.
THE CHOICES ARE ENDLESS AT CHEF’S HAT www.chefshat.com.au
25
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YOUNG BLOODS DINER 60 Rose Street, Fitzroy. Ph: 9419 3864 Words and photos by The Pink Leopard
ABOUT THE PINK LEOPARD The Pink Leopard is an heroic, moral cat with pink fur and the manners of an English aristocrat. She only becomes flustered or angry at obtuse or offensive humans who try to disrupt her existence, or at troublesome gadgets, rodents or insects. In most of her life, she stumbles into a difficult situation and stoically endeavours to make the best of it. All the while cooking.
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WWW.THE-PINK-LEOPARD.COM
Opening hours: Wednesday to Sunday, 7am-5pm
The menu is nice and neat like most breakfast offerings these days and chef Sascha Randle’s signature dish is coddled eggs – straight up which is fine and
Back in the day when I first started eating out as an ‘adult’, one of the first
all but why would you choose plain when you can have confit duck or house
places I went to was this well schmancy place on Wollongong Harbour. In
smoked salmon. Listen, if you are putting Ortiz anchovies on a menu then
those days decent eateries in the ‘Gong were few and far between so it was a
you have already picked the dish out for me. Done. I ordered a house blend
real treat, I don’t know – probably an anniversary or something. It was a three
coffee and read the Epicure (I know, clichéd or what) and waited.
course kinda night and I remember every dish that came out was miniature, delectable and expensive. I also remember that by the time we got to dessert
Adam asked if I had had coddled eggs before which made me nervously
I was quite full and utterly mesmerised at how this could possibly happen.
giggle. My mother and grandmother made coddled eggs when I was growing up and it made me crazy – these two prominent women in my life clearly
Through the years I’ve indulged in all from ye olde to nouvelle to the all-
could not make eggs. YBD’s Bloods coddled eggs are slow cooked in the
you-can-eat buffet (and pretty much ate all I could, remember the parmesan
oven until just perfectly done; the matriarchal contingent in my family just
bread at Sizzler? Dark, dark days y’all). One of the biggest lessons you can
couldn’t be bothered to cook the damn eggs and cleverly passed them off
learn in life and food is that quantity is most definitely not quality and if you
as coddled. No cigar mother, it would be a good 30 years until I could come
can get both in one, brava – but rare.
at these again.
Given it was pay day, I didn’t have to work and I was feeling hungry and
Now the correlation between that seafood place in Wollongong and YBD
adventurous I headed off to the brand spanker Young Bloods Diner (YBD)
is that my dish, although quite small in stature, packed a pretty powerful
on Rose Street in Fitzroy. They had only been open for two weeks which is
punch. I’m generally a salt freak but you are getting a nice balance of that
ordinarily a dubious choice in my book – I believe it takes a good old month
with the anchovies (the menu states ‘anchovy’ suggesting one – there were
for a place to really get into its groove, but the clincher was the parking spot
at least three and given the price of Ortiz, generous) and shavings of sharp
virtually right outside. Nothing makes you feel more special than being the
parmesan. Served with two slices of thick Dench toast and garnished with
only one in a place so if you really want to nab a seat here, an early weekday
dressed greens, pretty darn perfect. Gluten free-o’s aren’t left out, YBD bakes
morning is your best bet. I can’t imagine what these folks have to contend
its gluten-free bread in-house. It was just enough, a nice change to leave an
with on market days (YBD is the new baby of market owners Adam and
establishment and not feel as though I have to go searching out additional
Christian Ferrante and is smack bang positioned at the entrance). The first
somethings to satiate hunger pangs.
thing that hits you is the beautiful, bright, crisp décor – a mix of unfinished concrete walls decorated with self portrait art works by Adam (this might
Two weeks in and Young Bloods Diner seems to have a magnificent balance
sound pretentious, but far from it – I would happily have one or two hanging
of ambience, a simple clean menu and tremendously charming staff. Good
on my wall, maybe if I knew him a little better) and bright yellow subway tiles.
luck getting a table on a sunny Saturday market afternoon.
There is an upstairs, outdoor area that is covered but not walled – avoid in hurricane conditions when the rain is falling sideways.
Nice meal and two lattes for under a redback? bingo.
27
RECIPE: SYRIAN CHICKEN Recipe and photo by The Hungry Babushka
ABOUT THE HUNGRY BABUSHKA SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE
I bake like a mofo, but I can’t possibly eat it all, so I’m a part-time treat-pusher.
WWW.THEHUNGRYBABUSHKA.COM
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This week, The Hungry Babushka is going on a cultural food journey. From
INGREDIENTS
last night’s (lingonberry-less) Swedish meatballs, tonight we move to the Middle East with this beautiful dish that is served at the Healesville Hotel in
1½ tsp ground cumin
regional Victoria. With flavours inspired by Syrian cuisine, this chicken is the
1½ tsp ground cinnamon
perfect mid-week meal – quick and easy. But don’t mistake quick with bland.
½ tsp ground turmeric
The spices in this dish really pack a punch with big, bold flavours perfectly
8 chicken thigh fillets
mellowed out with a generous dollop of natural yoghurt.
2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, thinly sliced
Serves 4
28
4cm piece ginger, grated
Melbourne’s Rooftop Bars
A BAR ABOVE The Mt View Hotel in Richmond has opened its brand new rooftop deck bar, A Bar Above. With a fully refurbished outdoor bar and beer garden, the Bridge Road establishment is set to become a prime summer drinking spot. The bar has unparalleled 360 degree views of the Melbourne skyline, a brand new bar, and is easily accessed from the city. The new cocktail menu has been developed by Londoner Tim Simon and features several mouth watering house specialities. The drinks list also features a clever mix of premium and craft beer, cider and wine.
3 garlic cloves, crushed
70 BRIDGE ROAD, RICHMOND
1 long red chilli, seeds removed, finely chopped
PH: 9428 3973
WWW.MTVIEWHOTEL.COM.AU
THE LAUREL HOTEL
400g can chopped tomatoes 1 cup chicken stock
The Laurel Hotel is a local tradition and
Small pinch saffron threads
it has just reopened its rooftop for the
½ tsp cumin seeds, toasted
summer season with a new retractable
3 thyme sprigs
roof protecting you from the unpredictable Melbourne weather. When in use, the
⅓ cup currants
rooftop is 100 per cent water proof and
¼ bunch coriander leaves, roughly chopped
heated for those cold nights. As you walk
¼ bunch mint leaves, roughly chopped
up the separate staircase entrance, you’ll
Zest and juice from 1 lemon
be able to hear the live local duo. Enjoy the
Moghrabieh (giant Lebanese couscous), cooked to packet directions
famous jugs of Sangria and Chombord and a meal from the specialty rooftop menu
Thick Greek-style yoghurt to serve
or the specials board. The rooftop is open Thursday through to Sunday. Book a table
METHOD
before you arrive. 289 MOUNT ALEXANDER RD, ASCOT VALE PH: 9370 5800
Preheat oven to 180°C (160°C fan forced).
WWW.LAURELHOTEL.COM.AU
Combine the cumin, cinnamon and turmeric in a bowl. Season, then add chicken and toss to coat. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a casserole dish over medium-high heat. Add half the chicken
TUSCAN BAR For a delicious dinner, supper or after work/late night drinks, head to the Tuscan
and cook, turning, for 5 minutes or until golden. Remove and set aside. Repeat
Bar. Relax and unwind in the elegant restaurant and cocktail lounge or chill
with remaining oil and chicken.
out on the impressive rooftop bar. Enjoy Italian style tapas, mains, antipasti,
Add onion to casserole dish and cook for 2 minutes or until softened, over
local and European cheeses and house made desserts, which are all beautifully
medium heat. Add ginger, garlic and chilli, then cook for a further 30 seconds or until fragrant. Add tomato, stock, saffron, cumin seeds and thyme, then cook,
complemented with matching wines. Choose from a range of local and European wines; Italian, contemporary and classic style cocktails; or boutique beers. Tuscan Bar also hosts events, with cocktail style functions catering to both small and large
scraping bottom of pan with a spoon, for 2 minutes. Return the chicken to the
groups of up to 400 people – perfect for weddings, engagements, birthdays and
casserole dish, then cover and transfer to the oven. Cook for 35 minutes or until
corporate events.
chicken is cooked through and tender. Stir through currants, sprinkle over herbs, lemon zest and lemon juice, then serve
LEVEL 1 AND ROOFTOP, 79 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE PH: 9671 3322
WWW.TUSCANBAR.COM.AU
with moghrabieh and yoghurt.
29
WINE REVIEWS Words and photos by Krystina Menegazzo
ABOUT KRYSTINA MENEGAZZO La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who worked in wineries throughout Australia and Italy. After years of gallivanting she returned to Melbourne to market wine and share her love of all things vinous. In her spare time she enjoys cooking, gardening, drinking good vino and is a self-confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).
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WWW.LADONNADELVINO.COM
FOWLES WINE Stone Dwellers Arneis 2013
cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 40 per cent Merlot and spent three weeks
Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria. RRP $21
on skins prior to maturing in older French barriques. The wine pours as a
I have noticed over the last decade or so that there is a concentration of grape
beautiful, deep purple and black hue, with aromas of cassis, spice, plum and
growers in central and north-eastern Victoria who have become adventurous
red liquorice emanating from the glass. The palate has dominating flavours
in their plantings. Especially with varieties hailing from Italy. It is fortunate
of blackcurrant and woody herbs, complemented by a medium to full tannin
for us consumers who have even more options when going to our local wine
profile. As a wine from the 2012 vintage, the overall effect is dark, blackberry
store. A bottle of this wine from the Strathbogie Ranges in central Victoria
fruits at the fore with hints of vanilla and spice presenting themselves at the
landed in my lap recently and I was pretty eager to take a look as it was made
finish. The range of Geppetto wines are well worth seeking out for quality/
from the Arneis grape.
value purposes, each with their own little critter on the front label. You will
This particular white grape variety hails from north west Italy and is known
identify the Cabernet Merlot by the chook.
for its cleansing acidity, which gives you that lip-smacking effect after each
Stockist: Carwyn Cellars in Thornbury
sip. The Stone Dwellers example made by Fowles winery in the Strathbogie Ranges pays a fine tribute to the Arneis grape. This zippy little number has
LUIS CAÑAS Crianza 2008
delicate aromas of grapefruit, kiwis and white nectarine, that played nicely
Rioja, Spain. RRP $35
against the subtle flavours of a Middle-Eastern flavoured roast chicken
Bodegas Luis Cañas is a large family-owned winery dating back to 1928 and
I prepared. The palate is uber fresh with cleansing zesty citrus flavours,
located in the heart of the renowned Rioja wine region. Rioja is famous for
balanced acidity, a hint of slipperiness to the texture and a spicy note at the
wines made from the red Tempranillo grape and this is exactly what Luis
finish. For an Arneis, it also has particularly good length on the palate. In
Cañas has created here. Crianza means that the wine has spent one year in
summary, I refer to my partner who succinctly said the wine was ‘ultimately
oak barrels. In the case of this wine, it also spent another year maturing in
a little too drinkable’.
tank prior to bottling.
Stockist: Contact cellar door directly at cellardoor@fowleswine.com
Many years ago I was once referred to as the Tempranillo Goddess at a winery I worked at because during the harvest, it was my role to look after all the little
CRITTENDEN ESTATE Geppetto Cabernet Merlot 2012
experimental batches of Tempranillo. Apparently the lads thought I needed
Port Phillip, Victoria. RRP $23
a fancy name for such a task. Having said that, I am far from an expert when
One of the first Disney films I watched as a child was Pinocchio and as such, I
it comes to Tempranillo, but I do enjoy tasting the different styles Spain has
have always held a soft spot for anything related to the movie, even donkeys.
to offer. The Crianza from Luis Cañas pours with a deep burgundy and brick
Crittenden Estate recently sent me their range of wines called Geppetto. To
red hue. The aromas are super dark fruited – think black cherry and black
take on the name of Geppetto, the wines are designed to be honest, not
plums – with hints of earthy spices like clove and pepper. In the mouth it has
overly complex and of good quality – something that Mister Geppetto, the
no fruit sweetness and instead offers savoury elements like black olive and
creator of Pinocchio, would have been proud of. Winemaker Rollo Crittenden
a bitter chocolate finish on medium to full strength drying tannins. Different
has succeeded in this task.
and interesting? Yes. Enjoy this dark expression of Tempranillo over the next
The Cabernet Merlot was my personal pick of the bunch, being a classic
few years with all manners of grilled meats.
blend of grapes that I grew up tasting with my father. This blend is 60 per
Stockist: King & Godfree, Carlton
31
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The place to find local food and drink related products, services and venues.
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Rue Bebelons
China Bar
Shop 7 Espresso
Hawkers Café
Strike
Infinity Café Bar
Troika Bar
Ishikai Japanese Café
York Café
Izakaya Den (Basement)
Easy Way Tea SPENCER STREET Carron Tavern
Gigi Sushi Bar Gogo Sushi
Pensione Hotel
Hi Fi Bar and Ballroom
SPRING STREET
Mr Tulk (State Library North)
Appitizer Kubklam Café 201
Melbourne Town Hall Nando's Nelayan Indonesian
City Wine Shop
Old Town
Elms Family Hotel Federici Café
Soul Café
Hudson's Lime Café Bar
Oxford Scholar Starbucks Sushi Sushi
The European
The Lounge
ST KILDA ROAD
Three Degrees
606 Café Aroma on St Kilda Aromatic Espresso Balencea Bar Belgian Beer Café Bluestone Bite Café 409 Café 434 Café Allegra Café Deco Café Equesta Café News Café Promenade Café Safi Café Saporo Cafeteria Lounge CBD Café & Foodery Cinnamons Citro Daily Coffee
The Order Time Out Café Transport Your Thai Rice Noodle Young and Jackson Yoyogi TATTERSALLS LANE Section 8 (Chinatown) THE CAUSEWAY Grasshopper’s Feast WILLIAM STREET Illia Café and Bar La Stradda Café Metropolitan Hotel Nashi Slate The Mint
Gloria Jean’s
WILLS STREET
Heaven
Operator25
Il Locale Izumi Krave Lime Café Metrop Café
GRAM.NET.AU MELBOURNE
ISSUE 34
FREE
Movo Mod Oz Movo NGV Gallery Kitchen Purple Café The Blue Moose Café The St Kilda Rd Boulevarde Café Times Café
There are approx. 1000 distributors throughout Melbourne. For the full list, visit our website at melbourne.gram.net.au.
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