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ISSUE 35
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This month
Although each featured blogger has their own unique style and flair,
Inside this issue, read reviews of Bomba, Uncle, Woods Bar & Kitchen,
one thing that remains constant is that they all seek to put a positive
Theic Tea Bar, No. 8 by John Lawson, Gypsey and Musquito, Magic on
spin on Melbourne’s food and drink scene. We thank the bloggers
Ferrars and Wooga, along with our monthly wine reviews and a recipe
that have been involved in this issue.
for delicious stewed rabbit ravioli.
Danielle Gullaci, Editor
GRAM is Food Culture. Compiled. melbourne.gram.net.au
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From time to time we’ll add additional links, stories and giveaways on our Facebook and Twitter sites. Follow us and stay up to date with the odds and ends about eating and drinking in Melbourne. Gram magazine is owned by Prime Creative Media and published by John Murphy. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content. Editor: Danielle Gullaci Email: danielle.gullaci@primecreative.com.au Group Sales Manager: Brad Buchanan Phone: 0413 672 403 Email: brad.buchanan@primecreative.com.au
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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON Bomba Tapas Bar & Rooftop (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
Bomba Tapas Bar & Rooftop 103 Lonsdale Street, Melbourne. Ph: 9077 0451 Words and photos by Ms I-Hua and The Boy
About Ms I-Hua and The Boy A collaborative blog between the Boy and Ms I-Hua on their eating and travelling
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adventures in Melbourne.
www.msihua.com
(DETAILS ON PG. 3)
So what does this mean for us (and you)? Bomba Tapas Bar & Rooftop is
There’s a new Spanish kid in town.
a Spanish style workers’ bar where you can come to have a quick bite or a Actually, there’s an old kid who has reinvented itself in town.
lovely drink overlooking a magnificent view.
So there’s a new old kid in town. Am I making sense yet? Maybe not. But
Headed up by Jesse Gerner (Añada, Moro, River Café) and Andrew Fisk fresh
what does make sense is that the old Aylesbury has undergone some
back from his food tour of Spain (Añada, Cumulus Inc) as were we if I might
transformation and refurbishment and given itself a new name.
say so myself, Bomba specialises in delicious tapas fare at prices closer to that of Spain than Melbourne (think $3-$7 for patatas bravas and saladas).
Bomba! To all of those who are multilingual and able to speak in Malay, Bomba
Not everything is priced the same as the Spanish lands with paellas $32-$36
does not mean Fireman. Instead, Bomba can literally mean several things. A
and main courses $16-$25.
quick Google search tells me that Bomba in Spanish can mean pump, bomb, hot air balloon or something to do with drinking. So I think the closest link
On the night that we were there, Azzie, Mazzie, Alan and friend, The Boy and
would be “to get drunk”.
I had an amazing amount of food to try. Armed with six hungry tummies we
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managed to start off with a lovely mix of entrée items from the Apertivo,
with pine nuts, sumac, pomegranate and mint. It was good!
Charcuterie, Tapas and Montadidos sections of the menu. Of course we couldn’t leave without tasting dessert. As a group we Everything we tried was delicious and well seasoned. I have a great fear of
decided to share a few of the desserts around as we were stuffed. We
over salted Spanish fare in Melbourne and was happy to note that this was
tried the chocolate croquetas with custard and hazelnuts, turron parfait,
not the case with the food at Bomba.
goat’s curd sorbet with rhubarb and pistachio, churros with chocolate and Portuguese tarts.
Particular favourites for us all at the table and worthy of honourable mentions were the chicken, manchego and smoked paprika croqueta, charcoal grilled
The best out of all these desserts were the chocolate croquettes. The least
lamb T-bone and quail with pistachio and buckwheat.
enjoyed were the churros.
The croquettes were beautiful and golden on the outside and soft and gooey
I can’t wait to return to Bomba as it seems to be the closest in terms of food,
on the inside. The lamb – OMG. It had such a lovely charred smokey texture
quality and affordability to what we experienced in Spain on our honeymoon.
and tender juicy succulent flesh to feast on. Ms I-Hua & The Boy attended as guests of Bomba Tapas Bar & Rooftop. A few others at the table were still capable of eating so we ordered a few more dishes to go round. A notable dish was definitely the wagyu rump.
*Disclaimer: All food ratings and review are purely based on my own
I heard an audible gasp (quite the feat as it was quite noisy) from everyone
experiences and how I feel about the service, food and quality at the time
eating it at the table.
of visit.
The paellas were not quite what I expected and were wetter versions of what
Food/ Cuisine: Spanish
I’ve tried before in Melbourne. It did remind me of the ones served at Valencia
Dining Style: Restaurant
which were soggier and wetter.
Opening Hours: Downstairs Monday to Saturday, 5:00pm – late (*Bomba will be looking at
We also tried the rather interesting sounding salad of freekah and cauliflower
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lunch service soon); rooftop Monday to Sunday, 3:00pm – late.
BRING THE BANG TO YOUR PARTY
Everything a great Chef needs for every occasion
www.chefshat.com.au
SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON Uncle (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
Uncle 188 Carlisle Street, St Kilda. Ph: 9041 2668 Words and photos by Amy’s Town
About Amy’s Town I am a freelance food and drink writer by night, a foodie PR professional by day, and
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a blogger in between. I am a tragic foodie and a lover of all things cocktails. If I’m not eating and drinking I’m probably writing about it.
(DETAILS ON PG. 3)
www.amystown.wordpress.com
fragrant herbs, bean shoots, chilli and nuoc chum.
When I hear the phrase Vietnamese food, I usually think of getting rather rowdy at Binh Minh on Victoria Street in Richmond. Last time I went there, I was even given a mouse hat by the staff, but that is a tale for
I also had my first pho experience at Uncle. I know, better late than
another day. Now when I hear Vietnamese food, I want to go to Uncle
never. It was a mini beef pho and was warming with a slight sweetness
in St Kilda. They really know how to do it. Only recently opened, being
to it. I think I might be on the pho bandwagon. Just like everyone else.
eaten out of all their ingredients day in and day out, they are serving up One of the heartier dishes circulating was the fried rice, filled with small
fresh authentic Vietnamese cuisine in a beautiful setting.
sausage pieces that had a lovely sweet touch to them. Downstairs you’ll find a dark cocktail bar, and upstairs, a light, wood filled restaurant space that has yellow touches and stunning handmade
We ended with a tiny little sweet creation. It was banana, sorbet and
crockery from Fork Ceramics.
coconut cream of some sort. Delicious and oh-so-cute.
We tried many things, most in mini form and it was fun.
I want to head back and order some of the other menu items like the sweet potato fries with black salt (maybe not so authentic), the Ha Noi
The lime cured hapuka, coconut, pomegranate and chilli on betel leaf
fish banh mi with turmeric, dill and mayo and the soft shell crab with
was fresh and light.
butter lettuce, avocado and herbs.
Another light and fresh dish was the free-range chicken slaw with
PS. Look at that crockery, stunning!
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Real food. Local life.
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Wed Fri Sat Sun
8am – 4pm 8am – 5pm 8am – 4pm 8am – 4pm
Extended trading hours for Cecil Street restaurants
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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON The Woods Bar & Kitchen (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
The Woods Bar & Kitchen 108 Chapel Street, Windsor. Ph: 9521 1900 Words and photos by The Burger Adventure
ABOUT THE BURGER ADVENTURE The Burger Adventure is a blog that reviews the best burgers from
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Australia and around the world. Created by four guys with a passion for beef, buns, cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, egg, bacon and sauce.
(DETAILS ON PG. 3)
www.theburgeradventure.com
Summary Since 2011 this place has been known as The Woods of Windsor
don’t go with whisky), but they now call themselves The Woods Bar
and has had a reputation on Chapel Street for its whisky menu and
& Kitchen. Co-owned by the same people that brought you Yellowbird
knowledgeable bartending staff. In recent months they’ve tweaked
just down the road, these whisky and music connoisseurs know when
their agenda slightly, untucked their shirts and gone a little more casual.
a good thing is working. As if we needed an excuse to go to a bar. We
They’re still producing great food to complement the smoky/woody
sat down and ordered some drinks and the Gippsland Beef Burger that
characteristics of whisky (you can’t argue that meatballs and burgers
came with a BLT garnish, tomato relish, tasty cheese and hand cut fries.
Burger:
serviettes:
dress code:
sleepiness:
would we recommend:
price:
Gippsland Beef Burger
1
Smart Casual
14 minutes
Definitely
$19
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D – This thing came out all piping hot, fat and juicy and I may have forgotten to breath while inhaling it in record time. The beef was cooked right; enabling just enough time to form a nice char on each side while remaining a perfect colour of pink on the inside and trapping in all the great juice. Atop the crumbly beef was a nicely contrasting salty rasher of bacon hidden under a pile of tasty cheese. The lettuce and tomato gave it a great crunch and the big fluffy bun did its best to keep everything under control. Lovely venue, great atmosphere, ideal for first/tinder dates as there are plenty of drinks to choose from and it’s very dark and everyone looks good under candlelight. G – With no trace of the superficialness I’m normally accustomed to seeing in most Chapel Street bars/restaurants, I instantly fell in love with this place. It possessed a real sense of casualness with great table service and friendly staff. The burger had one of the most beautifully cooked, smoky patties I’ve had this year, combined with great melted cheese coverage and some tasty creamy mayo. What brought the whole burger together for me though was how simple it tasted, with no particular dominant flavours, and how easy it was to bite into. The hand cut fries were good too. Would I go back? Been there twice already.
A burger this smoky and peppery would be a beautiful accompaniment to almost any alcoholic drink I could think of. It was a well-crafted, beautifully balanced burger. The ingredients all complemented one another perfectly. Z – Boy did this have a decent kick of pepper to it. A burger this smoky and peppery would be a beautiful accompaniment to almost any alcoholic drink I could think of. It was a well-crafted, beautifully balanced burger. The ingredients all complemented one another perfectly – so I thought I’d dissect them to see if there were any leaks on what appeared to be a pretty tight ship. After biting into a little bit of cheese here, a little bit of beef there and picking at some pickle, I realised they were all just as great individually as they were when working together. If I had to pick a favourite child here it’d be the cheese, with beef a close second. The cheddar was salty, full bodied and tasted like gold for some apparent reason – all around awesome.
SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON Theic Tea Bar (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
Theic Tea Bar 77 Cromwell Street, Collingwood. Ph: 0433 214 938 Words and photos by Poppet’s Window
ABOUT Poppet’s Window I’m not the kind of gal who’s lost for words very often. When I’m not copywriting for
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clients or scribbling down feature stories, I’m eating. Sometimes I do both at the same time. By combining my passion for prose, my fascination with food and my fervour for
(DETAILS ON PG. 3)
photography, I hope to leave an impression on more than just your taste buds.
www.poppetswindow.com
Opening hours: Weekends 10am until 4pm
as evident from his strict vegan diet and weekly two hour drives up to Donna
Cuppings: Wednesday to Thursday 6pm until 8pm; Wednesday to Friday,
Buang where he collects the purest spring water for his perfectionist brews.
trade by appointment only. This is the kind of place you can sit for hours, chatting to the knowledgeable Theic is a much kinder word than alcoholic, although they essentially mean
and friendly staff without feeling rushed. You sigh deeply to yourself, without
the same thing. The only difference is the former refers to an addiction to tea,
realising. I imagine a cigarette has a similar effect on a smoker. The only
the latter an addiction to booze. Given this information, it’s fair to say I should
stressor here is choosing a cuppa from the tea bible before you. Green, white,
be a member of TA (Theics Anonymous). The word ‘Theic’ was introduced
black, oolong, blooming, fruit, iced – it’s no easy feat. Thankfully you can tell
into my vocabulary following the opening of Theic Tea Bar, hidden away in
your waiter what you like or what you fancy and they’ll do all the hard work
Insitu Furniture in the back streets of Collingwood.
for you.
Nathan Wakeford is the tisane-obsessed man behind the specialty café. You
I visited with Daisy from Never Too Sweet. She ordered the green tea latte
may remember him from such brands as Somage Fine Foods, specifically the
with soy milk, commenting – as her blog name would suggest – that it
Chamellia tea range. Nathan is the real deal. He doesn’t do things by halves,
wasn’t too sweet. This allowed the matcha flavour to shine, while the hints
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of saccharine were attributed to panela sugar, carrying caramel undertones.
Of course we ordered dessert. At Theic, desserts are raw, vegan and just about as ethical as food comes. I couldn’t go past the Snickers Ball: a health
After much debate, I opted for the persimmon leaf tisane from Korea. Despite
nut, gym junkie vitality ball rolled with cacao (not cocoa), peanuts, coconut
its light, fruity aroma, there was a deeper essence to this tea that reminded
and dates.
me of a baked winter dessert. It’s worth noting that the $8.50 price tag won’t
and cardamom.
we split a serving of granola...It arrived divided into two glasses without us having to ask. Hits of honey somersaulted with the crunch of roasted almonds and sugary bursts from dried fruit, all fused together with the nutty sweetness of soy milk.
Food here is 100 per cent vegan and comes courtesy of Chinita Desserts,
The only coffee you’ll find at Theic comes in the form of a mocha fudge
Loafer Bakery, Proud Mary and Botanical Cuisine. The Loafer toast crisps on
brownie bite, made using Proud Mary beans. I actually preferred the coconut-
the sharing plate would have seriously upset anyone with expensive dentures,
laced treat to the popular Snickers Ball, with its lovely pliable texture that
but the vegan dips – creamy dill ‘cheese’, vibrant carrot and fennel pate, and
took a perfect mould of our teeth, in stark contrast to the share plate toast.
an earthy mushroom and truffle pâté – were divine.
The coconut chai porridge also caught our eye, but we’ll have to save it until
be everyone’s cup of tea, but if you’re a sucker for the finer things in life, it’s a small price to pay. You’ll also score a couple of infusions, which means you’re really only paying $4.25 for the privilege anyway. We were also treated to a sample of the chai latte; the waitress had made some for herself and decided to share the love. One sip revealed the disparity between your average café chai and this one, infused with cinnamon, clove
next time. Our ordering knows no boundaries, which is why we split a serving of granola once we’d licked the dip dishes clean. It arrived divided into two glasses
Theic isn’t the kind of place you go to stuff yourself stupid. Visit if you’re
without us having to ask. Hits of honey somersaulted with the crunch of
craving a meditative atmosphere, a refined beverage crafted with the utmost
roasted almonds and sugary bursts from dried fruit, all fused together with
care and dessert that’s entirely guilt-free. Besides, specialty coffee is so 2012.
the nutty sweetness of soy milk.
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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON No. 8 by John Lawson (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
No. 8 by John Lawson Riverside at Crown, 8 Whiteman Street, Southbank. Ph: 9292 7899 Words and photos by Iron Chef Shellie
About Michele Froidevaux Half Malaysian, half Swiss girl in her twenties. A graphic designer by day, and a food blogger by night. Loves baking, cooking and mostly eating. A real sweet tooth and a weakness for macarons, meatballs and ribs. Also has an obsession with buying cookbooks. On weekends you’ll usually find me stuffing my face with something delicious!
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www.ironchefshellie.com
No. 8 is one of those restaurants I have always walked past at Crown,
The Portland Black and Blue Tuna is the signature dish at No. 8. It’s a play on
wondering what it was like inside. My parents had been there a few years ago
words; one side of the tuna is charred, while the other side is left raw.
and raved about how good it was, which made me want to go even more. It was a well balanced dish with the yuzu, black garlic and aged soy all Executive Chef, John Lawson, uses traditional cooking techniques,
working in harmony to complete the dish.
contemporary combinations of flavours and brings together some very unique, specially grown ingredients to the restaurant. With Milawa free range poultry and Barwon River lamb being specially farmed just for him, you can guarantee when you dine at No. 8, you won’t be getting the same dish elsewhere. Sunflower micro greens from Flowerdale farms and specially crafted artisan breads baked daily from EDS breads make for a truly unique dining experience. I dined as a guest as part of a special blogger night put on by the great team
The texture of the bread was so incredibly soft and fluffy, with an excellent aroma. Slather the seaweed butter onto a warm piece of bread and slip off into a happy place. Something about the potato reacts with the yeast to make it so unbelievably good. So good.
at Media Moguls. We were treated to a full dinner, with matching wines, as well as a loaf of my new favourite bread to take home.
The lamb and the duck are farmed specially for John, and not available for purchase by the public, only served at the restaurant. I chose the duck,
This bread had me swooning. Just ask anyone at the table. Caryn had
but actually preferred the lamb. Both dishes were perfectly seasoned and
confessed to eating a whole loaf in one sitting (sorry for publicly naming and
worked well. Meat was cooked to perfection and just melted in the mouth.
shaming you!)… and I tell you what, I could have eaten a whole loaf in one
Just looking at the lamb photo makes me want to dive into my computer
sitting too. The texture of the bread was so incredibly soft and fluffy, with an
screen and eat it again.
excellent aroma. Slather the seaweed butter onto a warm piece of bread and slip off into a happy place. Something about the potato reacts with the yeast
Before long it was time for dessert. The plates arrived at the table, but
to make it so unbelievably good. So good.
we were polite and waited until everyone had theirs, but all gushed with excitement that there would be a pourable element, a lovely syrup. Cameras
Okay, enough about the bread. Although I could write a short novel on it.
were at the ready.
We started with a Flowerdale Farm salad. The wheat berries were something
Nothing like freeze dried raspberries, fresh mango, grapefruit and berries to
I’ve never had before, being sort of al dente to chew on, with the mushrooms
go with your yoghurt at the end of a meal is there?
having an almond flavour to them. I must admit I didn’t really notice the almond flavour, but I think it was purely because I was too busy gasbagging.
There was also the choice of a take on the banana split, which was amazing!
Others noticed the distinct almond flavour.
Then we finished with coffee, tea and a petit four, before rolling out the door.
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CONDORELLI PANETTONE Condorelli Panettone is an authentic Sicilian pleasure, continuing to abide by traditional methods and techniques since it was established in 1933. Products are manufactured using the finest quality raw materials. The most prestigious product in the range is Il Panettone Del Cavaliere, which is flavoured with orange blossom, coated with rich, dark chocolate and sprinkled with chopped, toasted Sicilian almond flakes. Other products include Panettone Classico, which is coated with an irresistible hazelnut glacé and enriched with Sicilian almonds; Il Panettone al Moscato is flavoured by the exclusive Passito Moscato di Pantelleria; Il Panettone Agli Agrumi features Sicilian citrus fruits and a creamy filling; and Il Panettone di Pistacchio has a creamy pistachio filling. Condorelli Panettone is distributed in Australia by Genobile Brothers. The range is available at D.O.C Mornington and D.O.C Delicatessen. For further information, please visit WWW.DOCGROUP.NET.
THE ORGANIC MEAT SPECIALIST (T.O.M.S) The Organic Meat Specialist (T.O.M.S) is home to an amazing array of certified organic meats – from Milawa chicken to Cherry Tree lamb. Owner Tom Niall is passionate about the provenance of meat. He set up shop at South Melbourne Market with his wife Jane to offer a premium organic butcher that also provides much needed education to consumers. His home-made, genuine free-range pork Cumberland sausages and organic lamb and rosemary basil burgers are ideal for a barbeque with friends. For something extra special, try the organic bush spice and beer butterflied lamb. Partridge, quail, goat, venison and pheasant are also available if you’re feeling game. The store is located at South Melbourne Market, Stall 30 in the Deli Aisle. For more information, please visit WWW.SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU.
WIN ‘THE KAREN MARTINI COLLECTION’ COOKBOOK
Competition... For your chance to win a copy of The Karen Martini Collection, visit our website at melbourne.gram.net.au and enter the code word MARTINI. Entries close at 5pm (AEDT), 20 January 2014.
For information on being featured in our monthly ‘We Love’ section, please contact Lisa Guglielmino on 0425 145 806 or email lisa.guglielmino@primecreative.com.au.
What’s On > 22 December 2013 Aperi-Cena at DOC Deli
Lavazza A Modo Mio EspressGo Lavazza has introduced a new mobile Lavazza A Modo Mio espresso machine, EspressGo. The compact and sleek device works with 12V power supply, meaning users can make a coffee on the go with ease. Simply connect the power cable to a vehicle’s 12-volt cigarette lighter, unscrew the filter holder, pour in the water using the supplied measuring cup, insert a Lavazza A Modo Mio capsule, close the filter holder and press ‘on’. When the machine beeps three times, the user disconnects the power supply and presses the espresso button. Lavazza’s EspressGo won this year’s Coffee Innovation Award in Germany. For more information, please visit store.amodomio.com.au.
330 Lygon Street, Carlton More info: www.facebook.com/docpizza
> 24 December 2013 Christmas Eve Dinner at The Point Aquatic Drive, Albert Park Lake More info: www.thepointalbertpark.com.au
> 03 January 2014 Myrtleford Bush Market Myrtleford, Victoria More info: www.visitmyrtleford.com
Tablets by OrderMate
> 01 February 2014
OrderMate’s most recent module has been designed to
Great Australian Beer Festival
enhance the complete Point of Sale solution. It is a new
Geelong Racecourse
industry standard for handhelds on the market – in short, a
More info: www.gabfgeelong.com.au
mini terminal on the go. Tablets by OrderMate allows staff to go from table to table to take orders, upselling drinks and dessert, calling mains away and requesting bills to print which will ultimately enhance the overall customer experience. Through this ‘digital notepad’, staff can also hop online to tweet and post about daily specials to loyal customers, while simultaneously staying in control of reservations. For more information, please call OrderMate on 1300 667 067 or visit www.ordermate.com.au.
> 02 February 2014 All in The Pot cooking class South Melbourne Market More info: www.southmelbournemarket.com.au
> 24 February 2014 Opera in the Market Queen Victoria Market More info: www.qvm.com.au
La Genuina Fusilli al Limone pasta This new lemon fusilli from artisan pasta house La Genuina could be the ultimate summer pasta. The hard durum wheat dough is infused with fragrant lemon essence before being hand-rolled around a ferretto (a tool similar to a knitting needle) to create the traditional spiral shape. Fusilli al Limone won’t need much dressing or condiment. Simply serve with a little extra virgin olive oil or butter. It
> 27 February 2014 Aeolian Dinner $77 per person Enoteca Sileno, Carlton North More info: www.enoteca.com.au For more upcoming events, please visit melbourne.gram.net.au.
is also ideal with fresh shellfish and molluscs, or fresh ricotta and herbs. Available from Enoteca Sileno, 920 Lygon Street, Carlton North. For more information or to purchase online, please visit www.enoteca.com.au.
Twee t, twe et! @tamv yn: Jus t disco @GRA vered Mmag azine! #Melb Truly a ourne #foodie ’s drea m.
SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON Gypsey and Musquito (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
Gypsey and Musquito 382 Bridge Road, Richmond. Ph: 9939 9314 Words and photos by I’m So Hungree
About I’m so hungree I am a Melbournite with a penchant for sweets, eating my way around Melbourne (and
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the world!). I love good food and photography. I also suffer from ‘Oooh Shiny Thing!’ syndrome. My blog is my pretty eating diary and focuses on eating out experiences.
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I hope you all enjoy reading as much as I enjoy sharing!
www.imsohungree.blogspot.com
It’s always amusing when talking to people, who might not be from Australia, about the fact that we seem to be quite comfortable with eating the animals on our coat of arms. Are we really one of the only countries to do that? Honestly I think it’s all cool really, since kangaroo is pretty tasty and
I got a green concoction of Warrigal greens, kale, banana and desert lime which is also made with coconut water. I totally sucked all this up so quickly. So cool and so refreshing.
especially if it is a more sustainable source of protein than some of the other livestock that we keep currently. I’ve read some conflicting research, so I’m
I loved how cosy and homely the space was, there were even dog biscuits
not making a solid statement on that one, but I’d like to believe it’s more on
to buy to take home for the beloved canines, amongst all the sweet treats
the positive side.
for the more humanoid sort.
But having said all of that, you don’t really see it much in our vibrant dining
Brad’s coffee was graced with a swan, and I swapped out my usual chai
out scene do you? Or maybe I’m just not going to all the right places.
for something a little greener. While I do love my chai, I’ve been enjoying switching up my drinks a bit more lately.
Regardless, I was quite excited to see some native produce on the menu when Brad and I visited Gypsey and Musquito (after giving up on the hour
I got a green concoction of Warrigal greens, kale, banana and desert
long wait for Touchwood), even if we could only get a tiny table squeezed
lime which is also made with coconut water. I totally sucked all this up so
in by the window because the place was so busy.
quickly. So cool and so refreshing, I absolutely loved the coconut water in
• Specialising in Saltbush Lamb
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BRING IN SUMMER WITH A BBQ! At Gary’s Quality Meats we have our own purpose built cool room where you can actually see the beef being aged through a glass wall. We use only the very best free range and organic beef and age it for the optimal time. We supply many of Melbourne’s finest restaurants, as top chefs know there is no substitute for properly aged beef.
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I hadn’t really had much emu before, and really enjoyed this sausage. It reminded me a bit of lamb, with a nice dense texture that was relatively lean for a sausage. I naturally died over the beetroot and raspberry jam. this, just the thing to pick you up at the start of your day. The dish I wanted was originally supposed to be served with camel sausage, but since they ran out, they were happy to replace it with an emu sausage. It was neatly served with organic sourdough (which I had replaced with gluten free bread), beetroot and wild raspberry jam, sautéed Warrigal greens, Jacks Reserve cheddar, crispy happy bacon and a free range poached egg.
His dish was much prettier to look at, and I cooed over the pretty pink colours. The wallaby sausages were a little oilier than the emu sausage, but still very tasty and very well seasoned, the sweetness balancing out the savoury nicely. I was surprised how much I liked the damper, which had a lovely light texture and definitely reminded me of camping during one of my high school camps… although it was much better than whatever we made.
His dish was much prettier to look at, and I cooed over the pretty pink colours. The wallaby sausages were a little oilier than the emu sausage, but still very tasty and very well seasoned, the sweetness balancing out the savoury nicely.
I hadn’t really had much emu before, and really enjoyed this sausage. It reminded me a bit of lamb, with a nice dense texture that was relatively
It’s actually quite amazing how many options were available at Gypsey and
lean for a sausage. I naturally died over the beetroot and raspberry jam and
Musquito, with two pages of breakfast and a wide assortment in the fridge,
very much enjoyed all the flavours going on here in general. Not too big of
so whatever you’re craving, you’re likely to find here. The native produce
a breakfast, but just big enough.
options are also very unobtrusive and an easy introduction to the various proteins, for those who haven’t tried them and are keen to.
Brad got the Tasmanian farmed wallaby sausages with slow roasted Adelaide tomatoes, mushrooms, wilted spinach, crispy free range bacon with a
Although the weekends are packed out, I’d be quite happy to pop by again,
poached egg, riberry confit and stone ground wheat wattleseed damper.
and maybe actually get those camel sausages on my plate next time.
PRESERVE THE GOOD TIMES THIS SUMMER WITH THESE ANNA GARE BEVERAGE DISPENSER AND RETRO TUMBLER JARS. www.chefshat.com.au
22
Enrich your coffee experience
Peter Stathos has spent much of his long association with the coffee industry flying under the radar. A modest and dedicated worker, Peter has been an instrumental part of the Mocopan family for over 25 years, so we were thrilled Peter had his time in the limelight when he was recognised as this year’s Cafetto Hall of Fame recipient at the 2013 Golden Bean Awards. On behalf of the entire Mocopan team, congratulations Peter, you are a truly worthy recipient. Mocopan is dedicated to supplying consistent quality coffee to our customers. This comes from our commitment to quality at every step in our roasting process. Our company is HACCP certified and winner of the 2011 Outstanding Large Low-Risk Company at the Australian HACCP Awards.
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Magic on Ferrars 286 Ferrars Street, South Melbourne. Ph: 0414 991 556 Words and photos by Gastrology
About Gastrology Gastrology is a Melbourne-based blog about food and other deliciously related things.
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They travel around Melbourne and sometimes beyond, enjoying food and wine along the way and reporting back to their readers.
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www.gastro-logy.blogspot.com.au
Cuisine: Organic breakfast/brunch, coffee
bring pleasure to your taste buds. The smoked salmon was fresh and the egg
Overall impression: 8/10
was perfectly poached.
A new café darling of South Melbourne, Magic on Ferrars is all about
Magic’s big breakfast – Two perfectly fried eggs were succulently seasoned
exceptional service, coffee and food.
with rashers of smoked bacon and chorizo. These were accompanied with juicy roasted tomatoes and mushrooms. The highlight of the dish was the
After starting the café nine months ago, Ashley Kniveton and his wife Verlyn
grilled bread which had a remarkably crunchy yet chewy crust. In all, this dish
have devoted all their energy into developing Magic. Bringing dedication and
was a respectable assembly of breakfast essentials.
a wealth of professional experience from working in other cafés in Melbourne, the result is a delightful café which makes the community feel at home with
Magic on Ferrars also offers delectable cakes and baked goods delivered
unpretentious dishes and friendly staff.
daily by pastry chef Matt Forbes.
The menu is reasonably priced, fresh and goes by the ethos of using seasonal
With their crunchy golden brown exterior, these corn fritter nuggets of deep fried batter and succulently sweet corn kernels will certainly bring pleasure to your taste buds. The smoked salmon was fresh and the egg was perfectly poached.
produce sourced from Victoria. The food served by the kitchen ranges from well-loved breakfast favourites to hearty lunch items. The coffee is sourced from award-winning St Ali coffee roasters. The coffee offering has already proved popular, with customers ordering multiple cups of coffee and relishing in the quality caffeine hit. I ordered a cappuccino to get my caffeine fix for the day, and as expected, it contained a perfect layer of silken froth, complete with a flawless rosetta,
These golden puffs were stunning. Ethereal in texture, the doughnuts were
and tasted terrific.
cinnamon-sugar coated and jam-packed with delicious fillings. The salted caramel filling was beautifully creamy and decadent. The cherry filling on
Organic muesli with Shulz yoghurt, fresh fruit and poached apricots – the
the other hand was fragrant, fruity and had the perfect tartness. We had
muesli was fresh, delicious and a healthy option. The poached apricots were
difficulty picking a favourite.
a beautiful addition. Ashley and Verlyn have certainly brought some magic to South Melbourne. The Smasher – two perfectly poached eggs were accompanied by a creamy
With exceptional service, great food coupled with some of Melbourne’s
mash of feta and avocado. It was a simple and delightful dish.
best coffee in a relaxing environment, Magic is a quintessentially Melbourne coffee hot spot.
Mother Fritter – With their crunchy golden brown exterior, these corn fritter nuggets of deep fried batter and succulently sweet corn kernels will certainly
Gastrology bloggers dined courtesy of Magic.
25
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Wooga 270 Victoria Street, North Melbourne. Ph: 9328 1221 Words and photos by The Very Very Hungry Caterpillar
About Libby Margo Libby is a lover of all things nice (foie gras, truffles and Dr Loosen Riesling) and all things downright nasty (chicken-flavoured potato chips, Costco hot dogs and Stella Artois). When she is not thinking of, blogging about and eating food, she is working as an office clerk, studying law, wasting time on Supercoach and dreaming about sojourns to Echo Beach (Daylesford is usually fine by her though).
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I had cousins visit us from Indonesia in July and as well as showing them a
It wasn’t because it was awful (in actual fact, it was fine) but because my
thing or two about Melbourne, my brother and I took them to some of our
cousins love their meat so much.
favourite dining spots. The seafood pancake was very well done. In addition to being decentlyThe plan was to meet at Melbourne Central at 5:45pm one rainy Friday
sized, it was also dense and packed with generous doses of octopus, prawn
evening. Unfortunately, my cousins brought jam karet with them to
and calamari.
Melbourne and subsequently did not show up until close to 7pm. This meant that a lot of restaurants within walking distance were unable to
Our pan-fried squid was also delicious with the right amount of spiciness
accommodate a group of six people at the very last minute.
to appease my sambal-loving cousins. While other Korean restaurants tend to make this dish a bit too sweet, I thought that this version was just right.
The weather gods may not have been on our side that night but Lady Luck must have been because Wooga, one of my brother’s favourite
Yesss, more meat.
Korean restaurants, had a table big enough to fit six crazy Indonesians. Not bad given that they’re usually booked out, especially on Friday and
My cousin Jess loves pork so we ordered pork belly ($14) as an extra dish
Saturday nights.
even though we were pretty much verging on full at this stage.
Like most Korean restaurants in Melbourne, Wooga specialises in Korean
Oh, not to mention that we still had to finish the cooked pork dish that
barbeque so you select your raw meat from the menu and watch it cook
came with the combo. The menu said that it came with bok choy but that
in front of you. At Wooga, several combos are available and we chose
green stuff ain’t bok choy! Anyway, it may not have been the best dish of
Combo D ($119), the largest combo of them all. In addition to various cuts
the night, but it was nevertheless still good to eat a meat dish that didn’t
of beef (rib, topside, Scotch fillet and tongue), we also got two seafood
have to be cooked on the barbie.
dishes, a pork dish, a soup and four portions of rice (which was more than enough given all the protein we were getting).
Our final dish was a heart-warming spicy soup containing prawns, squid and those really nice and chewy disc-shaped rice cakes. Unlike the pan-
Gotta love free-flowing banchan.
fried squid, the soup wasn’t overly spicy which was fine and all – in fact, I liked the delicate tangy broth.
My cousins love their meat well-done while my brother and I prefer ours just cooked. Thus, coordinating the cook took some getting used to – especially
Given that Wooga’s Combo D banquet comfortably fed six people, it was
after all the plum wine we had just drank.
a pretty cheap meal. And while I liked it, my cousins couldn’t stop talking about it for days on end – I’m not sure if it’s because they’re easily pleased
We were given spicy pepper sauce and garlic oil to dip our meat in. They
or because of the lack of good Korean restaurants in Jakarta. Either way,
were great but the meat was so flavoursome that we probably would have
they definitely want to return to Wooga the next time they’re back. As for
been fine without the sauces.
me, I can definitely see myself coming here for dinner after work given that it’s not too far from the office. Hell, I’d come here for lunch if the jam karet
‘Slaw was provided but for some reason, it mostly remained untouched.
concept applied at work and we didn’t have to rush back to our desk.
27
Recipe: Stewed rabbit ravioli Recipe and photos by Elesbury Corner Store
ABOUT Elesbury Corner Store I’m Chiara, and Elesbury Corner Store is where I peddle my passion for all things edible.
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Perpetually inspired by the tastes, sounds, colours and smells of Melbourne’s food scene, I share my reviews and creative recipes that can be recreated from your kitchen.
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www.elesburycornerstore.wordpress.com
My dad is not a man that is readily impressed, particularly when it comes
marked with local restaurants and osterias, ancient cellars and vineyards, and
to food. Raised on an amazing Calabrian diet of generous portions lovingly
bid adieu on a self-driven treasure hunt of traditional foods prepared in their
prepared by my nonna, and cooking professionally for almost 45 years, the
original style.
man’s seen it all. He is a human encyclopedia on food, wine and restaurants. So you may appreciate that when dad remarks on a meal, I take note.
I love the way that this dish is paired with a sweet buttery carrot mash, rather than a sauce. It focuses your palate on the texture of the mince, the richness
His face lit up when he shared his experience of a meal he enjoyed on a
of the stewed rabbit lifted by the herbs and vegetables, and the freshness of
Slow-Food tour of Sicily. On this tour, my parents were equipped with a map
the pasta. The dish dad had was simply drizzled with olive oil. I opted to pour
28
a little of the stewing jus as I felt wasteful discarding all that liquidised flavour.
Method For the Mash
We are so fortunate that Melbourne understands that Italian food is not about
Peel the carrots, chop roughly and place them in some salted boiling water
bready pizza bases topped with pineapple or pastas drowning in cream. In
until soft.
my experience, Italian food is about letting good produce shine. A typical
Combine the carrots and butter in a processor or mash by hand until smooth.
lunch at my grandparents’ would feature pasta tossed with olive oil, broccoli
Season with salt and pepper.
and broad beans from their garden, crunchy parmesan crumbed chicken, a fresh salad with gigantic home-grown tomato and cucumber, home-brewed
For the ravioli filling
wine, fresh salamis and chunks of crusty bread.
Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil in a saucepan. Add the carrot, celery and onion, and sauté until soft. Add the rabbit and fry until the rabbit is just
There is nothing quite like fresh pasta and it is really not as laborious or
golden brown.
impressive as it seems – flour, water, egg, knead, rest, roll, cut, boil. Done.
Add the wine, bay leaf, salt and pepper and cook until the wine has almost
Okay, the rolling process requires some elbow grease, but start with small
evaporated. Add the stock and stew on low heat for about half an hour.
portions and see how you go. At least you won’t have the added pressure of a
Strain out the vegetables and the rabbit, reserving the stock, and set aside to
parent critiquing your every move and incessantly calling the rabbit, ‘wabbit’
cool. Once cooled, remove all of the meat from the rabbit. Return the bones
a la Elmur Fudd.
to the stock (for flavour) and let it simmer for a further 20 minutes. Process the rabbit and vegetables to a fine mince (or chop very finely by
Aside from the rabbit, I had everything in my pantry for this recipe. I picked
hand) with a few tablespoons of the jus or olive oil to get a moisture level
up the rabbit for a modest $10 from my local butcher. The warm aroma of the
you are happy with.
stewed rabbit swirling around the kitchen is worth the effort alone. For the pasta Go on, you can do this.
Flour your work space. Mound the flour on your workspace and create a well in the centre. Beat the eggs and place in the well. Gradually combine the
Ingredients
flour, eggs and a little water with your hands and knead until the dough is silky and elastic. Shape the dough into a ball, cover in plastic wrap and set
For the filling
aside for at least half an hour at room temperature.
1 rabbit, roughly chopped
On your floured workspace, roll out the dough as thinly and evenly as possible.
3 bay leaves
Cut out circles about 12cm wide, ensuring that they are large enough to
1 carrot, finely chopped
fold over a decent amount of filling (I used a small bowl to cut my shapes).
1 onion, finely chopped
Transfer the pasta circles onto a floured tray.
1 celery stick, finely chopped
Place about 1 tablespoon of the filling on each pasta circle. Brush the
¾ cup white wine
circumference of the circle with a lightly beaten egg. Then, fold the circle in
½ tsp nutmeg
half, making sure that there are no air pockets, and press the edges of your
1 cup vegetable stock
ravioli with a fork. Add the ravioli to a large pot of salted boiling water. They will be ready when
For the carrot mash
they rise to the surface.
500g carrots
Dish the carrot mash onto a plate with two or three of the ravioli, drizzle with
2 tbsp butter or olive oil
the jus and sprinkle with a little leftover ravioli filling.
For the pasta 200g flour 2 eggs
29
Wine reviews Words and photos by Krystina Menegazzo
About Krystina Menegazzo La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who worked in wineries throughout Australia and Italy. After years of gallivanting she returned to Melbourne to market wine and share her love of all things vinous. In her spare time she enjoys cooking, gardening, drinking good vino and is a self-confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).
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www.ladonnadelvino.com
SILENT WAY Chardonnay 2012
and saw a large pool of murky water ahead but naively assumed it would
Macedon Ranges, Victoria. RRP: $38.00
be shallow and drove straight through. Suffice to say that we did not make
Many moons ago I used to go to a winery for work wearing the standard gear
it out. Instead, the car sunk deep into the sloppy slurry that crept right to
of Hard Yakka pants, Blundstone boots and perhaps a flannelette shirt. It was
the base of the car doors. I looked out my window to the rear of the car to
a charming look, to say the least. One day, I was requested by my winemaking
see if we could reverse back. At the same time, Jess revved the engine and
boss to spend a weekend up at his farm in the Macedon Ranges to help
splashed a bucketload of beige goodness inside the car and all over myself.
plant a vineyard. I was keen as a bean to give it a go, as I had never had that
I squealed with surprise and Billie just stood there looking bemused. We got
experience. I thought it was another accolade I could put on my resume: Has
out of the car so Jess could try and build sticks around the wheels to get out
planted vineyard – tick! Had I known the amount of exertion involved, I’m not
while I ran for help. We had only run 100 metres when I came across a sign
sure I would have held the same level of enthusiasm. How it worked was that
that read ‘Cobaw Ridge winery – Open’. Tractors! I thought.
a tractor would start at the beginning of the vineyard row and move along
I turned right and pelted up the long dirt track and arrived breathless at the
ramming holes into the soil and filling it with water. My job was to follow
empty cellar door. After ringing the bell several times I was finally greeted
with the vine cuttings and ram them roots down into the hole and stuff it
by the gracious owner, Nelly Cooper. She saw my panic-stricken face and
with earth. Then I would move to the next hole… and the next. Hundreds of
wandered into the vineyard to grab her husband Alan. He kindly stopped
cuttings later, instead of walking up and down the hill, I was crawling on my
kangaroo-proofing his fence and jumped into the tractor with a chain and
hands and knees from the fatigue. Oh such cherished memories.
pulled our newly christened vehicle out. In order to say thanks, we decided
Silent Way Chardonnay is made from these vine cuttings. It is a project run
to head back to the cellar door and try some of their wines.
by dear friends, Matt and Tamara Harrop. The name, Silent Way, pays homage
The 2008 Lagrein was one of a couple of bottles we bought. It is Alan’s
to a record by jazz genius Miles Davis. The label design includes symbols of
homage to the red grape of the Trentino-Alto Adige region in Northern Italy.
love and connecting with the earth and was in fact used in their wedding
The Lagrein has an admirable deep inky hue followed by seductive Italian-like
invitations. While I should probably hold some bitter feelings towards this
aromas of black cherries, plums and hints of violets. The wine is incredibly
wine for all the knee and back pain it caused, I can’t help but sing its praises.
moreish with intense flavours giving way to super supple medium-bodied
This Chardonnay is surprisingly flavoursome for a wine of relatively young
tannins and texture that peters out to a smooth finish. Lagrein tends to be
vine age. It has good character with aromas of white peach, yellow nectarine
drunk young and can be underestimated because of its medium-bodied-
and pine nuts. The palate offers gentle flavours of honeydew, lemon wedge
ness, but it can be just as fresh and delicious with 5-10 years of bottle age.
and a hint of parsley with a smooth, creamy texture that is balanced by
Stockist: The latest vintage is available directly from the cellar door.
the typically taut Macedon acidity. This acidity is lovely and fresh on the front palate, and then mellows out at the finish. All elements are in balance,
DIRTY THREE Pinot Noir 2012
something that was probably assisted by the use of 100 per cent old French
South Gippsland, Victoria. RRP: $43.00
oak barrels to not overpower the natural Chardonnay flavours.
“Wine is all about the dirt – from the vineyard soil, to the dirty purple hands of
Stockist: King & Godfree in Carlton.
the winemaker.” This is the ethos behind the Dirty Three lads, Marcus Satchell, Stuart Gregor and Cameron Mackenzie, who work together to create this
COBAW RIDGE Lagrein 2008
Pinot Noir out of fruit from South Gippsland, 150km south east of Melbourne.
Macedon Ranges, Victoria. RRP: $60.00
The purity and silkiness of this vivid red Pinot Noir were what captured me. A
My partner Jess and I were recently travelling through the Lancefield
collection of aromas jump out of the glass, including green plum, black cherry
countryside on a lazy Sunday. We decided to take a shortcut to the town of
and kola nut. There is a charry cocoa note as well from the 11 months in French
Macedon by venturing through the serious dirt roads of the Cobaw Forest
oak. The pomegranate-like acidity is youthful and keeps the wine crunchy on
in our new 4WD. At one point, I had the bright idea of getting our manic
the palate. This light to medium-bodied Pinot finishes all class with its silky
blue heeler Billie out and running beside the car. As usual, she ran berserk
texture and finely grained tannic finish. If you can hold off finishing the bottle
through pools of water along the road and kept pace with the car most of the
in one sitting, try it the next day for an even more mellowed version.
way. Towards the end, Billie began to lag behind. We came around a corner
Stockist: Prince Wine Store in South Melbourne.
31
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Wheat Restaurant Bar
Guava Bean Hairy Canary
MELBOURNE PLACE
Hudson’s
Saint Peters Bar & Restaurant
In a Rush Espresso Irish Times Pub
MEYERS PLACE
Kitten Club
Lily Blacks
Mamma’s Boy
Loop
Mar Lourinha
Waiters Restaurant
Menzies Tavern Oriental Tea House
NEWQUAY PROMENADE
Ortigia Pizzeria
Fish Bar
Pony
Live Bait
Quists Coffee
Mecca Bar
Rare Steakhouse Saki Sushi Bar
QUEEN STREET
Stellini Bar
Bellini (ANZ Building)
Tengo Sushi
Chaise Lounge
Terrace Deli
Degani Mercat Cross Hotel
LITTLE LONSDALE STREET
Michaelangelo
1000 Pound Bend
Muleta's
166 Espresso Bar
Nashi
Angliss Restaurant
Nourish
Café 111
Romano's
Café 18
Segafredo
Don Too
Speck
Equiniox Gianni Luncheon
RUSSELL PLACE
Giraffe Café
Bar Ampere
Horse Bazaar Il Vicoletto
RUSSELL STREET
La La Land
Bean Room
Koukos Café
Blu Point Café
Match
Café Little Hut
Modo Mio Café
Chilli Café
Oddfellows Hotel
Chill On Ice Lounge
Rue Bebelons
China Bar
Shop 7 Espresso
Hawkers Café
Strike
Infinity Café Bar
Troika Bar
Ishikai Japanese Café
York Café
Izakaya Den (Basement)
Easy Way Tea SPENCER STREET Carron Tavern
Gigi Sushi Bar Gogo Sushi
Pensione Hotel
Hi Fi Bar and Ballroom
SPRING STREET
Mr Tulk (State Library North)
Appitizer Kubklam Café 201 City Wine Shop Elms Family Hotel Federici Café Hudson's Lime Café Bar
Melbourne Town Hall Nando's Nelayan Indonesian Old Town Oxford Scholar Soul Café Starbucks Sushi Sushi
The European
The Lounge
ST KILDA ROAD
Three Degrees
606 Café Aroma on St Kilda Aromatic Espresso Balencea Bar Belgian Beer Café Bluestone Bite Café 409 Café 434 Café Allegra Café Deco Café Equesta Café News Café Promenade Café Safi Café Saporo Cafeteria Lounge CBD Café & Foodery Cinnamons Citro Daily Coffee
The Order Time Out Café Transport Your Thai Rice Noodle Young and Jackson Yoyogi TATTERSALLS LANE Section 8 (Chinatown) the causeway Grasshopper’s Feast WILLIAM STREET Illia Café and Bar La Stradda Café Metropolitan Hotel Nashi Slate The Mint
Gloria Jean’s
WILLS STREET
Heaven
Operator25
Il Locale Izumi Krave Lime Café Metrop Café
GRAM.NET.AU MELBOURNE
ISSUE 35
FREE
Movo Mod Oz Movo NGV Gallery Kitchen Purple Café The Blue Moose Café The St Kilda Rd Boulevarde Café Times Café
There are approx. 1000 distributors throughout Melbourne. For the full list, visit our website at melbourne.gram.net.au.
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