GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 64 FREE
PLEASE TAKE ME HOME
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CONTENTS EATING OUT FOURTH CHAPTER Lisa Holmen UNITED KITCHEN Aleisha Mak WHITE MOJO Sweet and Sour Fork
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FEATURE
RECIPE
REGULARS
BACKYARD SALAMI
CAULIFLOWER AND CHICKPEA
CONTRIBUTORS
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Lauren Bruce
SALAD WITH WITH ALMONDS,
NEWLY OPENED
6
FRIED ONION AND SULTANAS
AROUND THE TRAPS
10
Arron Ollington
Linda and Paul Jones
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28
FOODIE’S GUIDE TO
30
THINGS WE LOVE
7 20
REVIEWS
32
OUT AND ABOUT
34
THE DIARY
35
HAWAII Megan Osborne
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ON THE COVER: POMEGRANATE The pomegranate, botanical name Punica granatum, is a fruit-bearing deciduous shrub or small tree in the family Lythraceae that grows between five and eight metres tall. In the Northern Hemisphere, the fruit is typically in season from September to February, and in the Southern Hemisphere from March to May. As intact arils or juice, pomegranates are used in cooking, baking, meal garnishes, juice blends, smoothies, and alcoholic beverages, such as cocktails and wine. (Source: Wikipedia) Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
COVER DESIGN
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Jess Hourigan
ELEVATOR CREATIVE hello@elevatorcreative.com.au www.elevatorcreative.com.au
EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au
DEPUTY EDITOR Lauren Bruce DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne
DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: distribution@grammagazine.com.au GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au www.grammagazine.com.au | www.thegramstore.com.au
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CONTRIBUTORS LAUREN BRUCE Lauren started her writing career as a communications adviser before she realised she couldn’t ignore her passion for food and the arts any longer. She gave up the world of state politics to concentrate on freelance writing and styling. She has since contributed to Spook, Paper Sea and Junkee and is a regular contributor to GRAM Magazine.
MEGAN OSBORNE Megan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy.
laurendarcybruce.wordpress.com INSTAGRAM: brucemoosemedia
meganosborne.com.au TWITTER: foodiewritings INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings
LISA HOLMEN
LA DONNA DEL VINO
After spending most of my early years in Adelaide, I moved to Melbourne in my early 20s and a few years later moved to the big smoke in London. I started my blog, lisaeatsworld.com, to share my two big passions in life – food and travel. My aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. My current country count is 35 and hope to reach 50 by the end of 2015.
La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this
lisaeatsworld.com
with her husband Wootten.
TWITTER: lisa_eatsworld INSTAGRAM: lisaeatworld FACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld
ladonnadelvino.com
A CHRONICLE OF GASTRONOMY Originally just wanting somewhere to record my culinary adventures, A Chronicle Of Gastronomy has become a place where I can share my experiences and hopefully encourage others to sample and enjoy all the amazing food Melbourne, and the rest of the world, has to offer. chronicleofgastronomy.com INSTAGRAM: achronicleofgastronomy
ON THE BANDWAGON Trev has earnt a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for
Melbournian with a nose attuned to all things vinous. A self-confessed Neb Head (someone who really digs the Nebbiolo grape), she will happily try anything once but has a penchant for full-bodied whites, food-friendly reds and a good digestive. In her spare time you’ll find her gardening, cooking, dancing, drinking good vino or working on her country property
TWITTER: ladonnadelvino FACEBOOK: la-donna-del-vino
DEAN SCHMIDEG A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is best known as one of Melbourne’s foodies and coffee obsessed, as well as the co-founder of BAR/D UP, an online video directory of our city’s best bars. He shares the things he eats and drinks, plus his own creations across social media. Dean’s posts celebrate the produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together. FACEBOOK: imagesds / bardupmelb INSTAGRAM: dsimages / bardupmelb TWITTER: imagesDS / bardupmelb E: deany76@gmail.com
local breweries and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer which runs many events
SWEET AND SOUR FORK
including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival.
Pharmacist by day, (sometimes) pharmacist by night, and food blogger by very late night
TWITTER: Onthe_bandwagon INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon
when I’m not trying to save the world from antibiotic resistance.I love books, food, and hot tea. And most of all, I love my longsuffering dining companions sweetandsourfork.com
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There are many different types of kitchen knives for various uses, but which is right for you? With a broad and blunt blade. The Spatula is great fo, cooking omelettes and pancakes. The rounded tip also helps when spreading icing or dough.
Spatula
An Ivo Slicer has air pockets along the cutting edge of the blade to prevent food from sticking to it.
Ivo Slicer
This knife is particularly good for bread that has a strong or curved crust, as it has a long, curved blade that shortens towards the tip.
Bread Knife Pointed Tip
One of the most popular knives. the Chef ’s knife has a strong blade and is heavy to hold. Your workhorse knife, this can be used for all chopping and slicing tasks.
Chef’s Knife
A serrated, long and strong blade that allows for cutting of bread with clean slices. Can also be used for slicing many types of soft foods such as tomatoes.
Bread Knife Square Tip
The Santoku Knife is the Japanese version of the Chef ’s Knife, and is excellent for meat. fish and as the name suggests. This is great for cutting smaller fruit and vegetables with its strong straight edge and sturdy tip. It has a wide blade to scoop up chopped food and a curved end which helps the rocking motion used when chopping.
Santoku Knife Filleting Knife
Flexible boning knife perfect for filletting and preparing fish & meat.A long, slim blade with flexibility allows ease of movement.
Cleaver
A generally rectangular sturdy bladed knife used for splitting large cuts of meat and spare ribs. NOT to be confused with a cleaver. These are large rectangular bladed knives used for general food preparation but are usually not suitable for chopping through bones.
Chinese Chopper
Characteristically a thin curved blade with a straight edge. Great for removing meat from the bone.Flexible versions are perfect for fish and poultry
Boning Knife
An all-round versatile, smaller knife suitable for chopping and slicing fruit or veg and smaller cuts of meat.
Utility Knife Tomato Knife
A small serrated knife that has a forked tip for picking up pieces of fruit and a sharp edge for cutting through tough skin.
Slicing Knife
Most popularly with a serrated edge although also available with a plain blade. A versatile knife for precise cutting of smaller cuts of meat.
Steak Knife Decorating Knife
The Steak Knife is well known for its strong characteristics, and has a straight cutting edge. Widely used for cutting and chopping steak.
Vegetable Knife Paring Knife
A defined blade that offers a pronounced point for carving intricate patterns. Great for fruit and vegetables.
Peeling Knife A curved blade perfect for peeling fruit and vegetables and with a short sturdy handle, thin cutting blade and firm tip ideal for removing the eyes from potatoes.
Great everyday knife with a slim, fine blade, fine cutting edge and firm tip. Peels potatoes. fruit and vegetables. Also suitable for trimming off any unusable pieces.
As the name suggests this is great for cutting smaller fruit and vegetables with its strong straight edge and sturdy tip.
NOW OPEN
ROC’S JAM FACTORY
THE JOLLY MILLER CAFE
BELLE’S HOT CHICKEN
OPENED: July 2016 Located in the heart of South Yarra, Roc’s Jam Factory is set to be an iconic hot spot for locals and connoisseurs, boasting a range of handselected wines, world-class liqueurs and artisan beers.
OPENED: April 27, 2016 You may know the Jolly Miller crew as a bakery from your childhood, your local neighbourhood café or as the creators of the ridiculously indulgent Super Shakes that have been causing an Instagram frenzy across the town.
OPENED: July 4, 2016 Belle’s Hot Chicken will open the doors to their third Melbourne eatery in late July, bringing their succulent hot chicken and natural wine south of the river to Chapel Street in Windsor.
The creative list of cocktails is segmented into five categories; sweet, bitter, sour, dry and strong. Guests can also enjoy beverage tasting flights for a set price including a Gin and Tonic experience, World of Whiskey, Beer Tasters and Negroni.
However you know them, the boys from The Jolly Miller Café have been building a loyal following over the past decade since their humble beginnings running a bakery in the country town of Gisborne.
Served by dedicated staff, the stunning dining menu features flavours from around the globe; an offering of dishes designed to share, prepared fresh with the best local and imported ingredients. Guests can indulge in a sumptuous selection of small dishes such as crab cake with guacamole and gazpacho, and rice fried calamari with green papaya and Thai herbs. A variety of house made pizzas, specially curated salumi and a selection of the finest artisan cheeses will also be available. For the sweet tooth, dishes include crème brule with pistachio biscotti, grand marnier macerated strawberries and chocolate, and a pecan pudding topped with crème anglaise. Decorated by lashings of paintings and brightly lit sculptures designed by renowned artists Tim Maguire and Christian Thompson, Roc’s showcases art of music icons including Keith Richards and Frank Sinatra. The new premium venue invites guests to be immersed in the elegant space and refined ambience.
They’ve recently opened a cafe on Mount Alexander Road in Essendon. The new Essendon menu has been curated to include more indulgent brekkie options for locals, such as a unique take on avocado crush (hint: it includes organic quinoa) or the light but lovely honey saffron rice pudding. The team have also tweaked their lunch menu to cater to more adventurous diners and now offer lunch options such as pork sliders in a brioche bun, served with apple, Spanish onion and cabbage slaw or the king prawn salad served with pancetta blue cheese and pear. 1057 MT ALEXANDER ROAD, ESSENDON
instagram.com/rocsjamfactory
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“Belles will be one of the only natural wine offerings in the South Melbourne so we are excited to bring something different and showcase our extensive cellar,” says McGlone. Campbell said of their new space, “We love being able to adapt the interiors to suit the existing site and the precinct. Given the nature of the area as a drinking destination, we are keeping the look of the space quite bar-like and cosy.”
facebook.com/TheJollyMillerCafe
147 CHAPEL ST, WINDSOR
twitter.com/JollyMillerCafe
belleshotchicken.com
instagram.com/thejollymillercafe
facebook.com/BellesHotChicken instagram.com/belleshotchicken
become a match made in heaven. Glamorama has now welcomed David “Davey” Stewart (owner and Head Chef of Ascot Food Store) as executive chef to its new rebranded kitchen, Spare Me, boasting delicious dishes, including the Madras Spiced trawler prawns, marinated mushrooms with crispy tofu and much more.
“We’ve built an escape, tailored for those searching for a sophisticated environment to enjoy quality food and drink, we’re here to accommodate and make you feel at ease.”
rocsjamfactory.com.au
The 60-seat restaurant will centre around a long bar where customers are encouraged to grab a stool and engage with the staff about the natural wine list, a strong focus of the new venue.
thejollymiller.com.au
Anthony Gardik, Roc’s Bar Manager, says the innovative concept has also been designed to amplify the standard Chapel Street experience.
THE JAM FACTORY - 500 CHAPEL ST, SOUTH YARRA
Belle’s has been a crowd-favourite since Morgan McGlone, and his partners Reno Pontonio and Miranda Campbell first brought the Nashville specialty to Melbourne in 2014. Melbournians can’t get enough – this is their second Melbourne eatery to open this year, and their fourth in Australia.
Spare Me Kitchen’s dinner menu is served until
SPARE ME KITCHEN
11pm. The venue delivers everything for the perfect
OPENED: July 2016 What happens when the best late-night venue on Brunswick Street and the best café in Ascot Vale work together? Food, drink and music of the highest quality
class artists, more whiskey than you could ever
night out under one roof: live music from worldimagine and, now, an exciting reinvigorated dinner offering from Davey Stewart.
AROUND THE TRAPS DO YOU WORK IN THE FOODSERVICE, HOSPITALITY OR FOOD RETAIL INDUSTRIES? Fine Food Australia is the country’s leading trade exhibition for the foodservice, hospitality and retail industries. The event brings the best
The Big Group talking all things catering,
of the industry together in one place, providing
Sharon Flynn owner of The Fermentary talking
unmatched opportunities to network and do
about fermentation and food as medicine,
business across all sectors of the food and
Laura Neville owner The Wandering Chef and
beverage industry.
Saxon Joye from Longfresh talking about high pressure processing, and Ken Burgin, CEO
The event will present new and innovative
Profitable Hospitality talking about how to
products from over 1,000 industry suppliers
attract and retain the right staff.
around Australia and from over 45 countries internationally, as well as live demonstrations,
Also honouring some of the hardest working
master-classes
people in the industry, the annual Women
and
industry-recognised
competitions.
in Foodservice Charity Event will take place on Wednesday 14th September, marking the
Performance excellence will be a key feature at
third year of what has become a must-attend
Fine Food Australia, with national competitions
breakout event and networking opportunity.
hosting their finals at the event. The Bake Skills
Speakers include Alla Wolf-Tasker, Nahji Chu
Australia competition will see five competing
and Phillippa Grogan, facilitated by Gemima
teams representing their states challenged with
Cody.
Great Official Aussie Pie Competition has pastry
With its biggest offering ever, Fine Food
chefs from around the country prepping their
Australia 2016 is a non-negotiable date on the
finest dough and fillings, while Nestlé Golden
calendar for anyone in the country’s vast and
Chef’s Hat Award National Final will culminate
great foodservice industry.
at the show. WHEN: 12 – 15 September Making its debut at Fine Food Australia will be
OPENING HOURS: Mon: 10am-8pm; Tue and
Roasters Lane – a zone dedicated to tea and
Wed: 10am-5pm; Thu: 10am-4pm
coffee, covering all aspects of leaf and bean from
WHERE: Melbourne Convention and Exhibition
tastings to master-classes and expert seminars
Centre
discussing trends and industry predictions.
REGISTRATION: Trade registrations are open at finefoodaustralia.com.au/gram using promo code GRAM before Friday 9 September
and is a highlight for many of Fine Food Australia’s visitors is the MYOB Talking Food
Fine Food Australia is strictly a trade only event.
Stage. This year’s lineup of experts and sessions
Business ID maybe requested and children are
already includes Bruce Keebaugh owner of
not permitted.
Wed Fri Sat Sun
Hope (Carlisle Wine Bar), assisted
back to what it should be about,
by Uprooted’s co-owner and chef
away from freakshakes, cronuts
Paul Turner, fresh from stints at
and ramen burgers.
Two Wrongs, Qualia and Cutler & Co who will be directing your
Experiences
8am – 4pm 8am – 5pm 8am – 4pm 8am – 4pm
shared
amongst
friends and family. Tastes, smells
taste buds with five courses of creative, modern excitement.
and sounds, things that evoke memory, laughter and joy, all
Supporting them on the night
brought to you by people who
will be none other than Kyle
are passionate about their craft.
Karamitsos (XX/Captain Baxter),
Uprooted Projects challenge you
slinging drinks and bringing his
to leave your preconceptions at
own style of flair and magic to the
the door and join them for a night
bar, together with local maestro
where food, drink, art and music
Funklr looking after all of your
intertwine. This series of events
musical needs, and visual artists
will
yet to be announced. Witness the
explore
the
relationship elements
start of something special and
with people who have spent
join them for a night of fun and
years learning their trade and are
debauchery, what have you got to
looking for their chance to shine,
lose?
between
a range of products throughout the day; the
Something that regularly garners large crowds
Imagine if we could bring dining
these
four
collaborate, and in turn create a whole new experience for those
For more information and to book
present. Each of these gatherings
go to www.eventbrite.com.au and
will
search “At Birth”.
highlight
a
different
key
element in order to create a
Email: uprootedprojects@gmail.com
dining journey and form a shared
@uprootedprojects
story for the guests. Join them on 29 August 2016 for the inaugural Project called ‘at Birth’, hosted by co-owner, chef and
restaurant
manager
Tom
Enjoy 2 hours FREE parking on Market days
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FOURTH CHAPTER
WORDS LISA HOLMEN PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTIAN ROCCHI
Another week, another cafe opening in Melbourne. It’s surprising that so
banana and marshmallow. Health conscious brunch goers will also be well
many cafes in Melbourne are constantly packed, but I guess that’s the
looked after with the likes of ‘the bowl’ of brown rice, golden hommus,
joy of living in a city that’s obsessed with food. The latest all day brunch
pickled cabbage, roast pumpkin, avocado, cherry tomatoes, kale and spicy
spot to hit Melbourne is Fourth Chapter in Prahran. Last weekend I got up
peanut sauce.
extra early and ventured there for breakfast before a shopping trip to the Prahran Market. After all, one should never go food shopping hungry…
It’s another menu where you want to order all of the above. There’s also a few extra dishes on the lunch menu (available from 11am). Next time I
The Fourth Chapter is located in a quiet end of the High Street, tucked
won’t be thinking twice about sinking my teeth into their Southern fried
away from the hustle and bustle of Chapel Street. You can’t see much
chicken bao or the pulled beef brisket cheeseburger in smoked brioche.
from the outside, but enter through the grand old entrance and you’ll find a beautifully converted space. At 8.30am the cafe is surprisingly quiet and
For breakfast, a must order is the Mexican take on the baked eggs, full of
we are ushered to a table in the front room by the friendly staff.
smoked chipotle, chunks of sweet potato, pancetta, avocado and charred corn. The dish is topped with blue corn tortillas and finished with a dollop
It’s another one of those “grammable spots” which are going to attract
of lemon labneh. It’s a comforting dish and oh so delicious. No bread but
plenty of food bloggers standing on chairs trying to get the best flat lay
it’s so generous, it doesn’t really need it.
of the table. High ceilings, plenty of natural light, greenery and carefully picked tableware definitely make it an incredibly handsome spot. There’s
A perfect winter warmer on the breakfast menu is the baked rhubarb,
also a cute courtyard at the rear with gorgeous views of the neighbouring
apple and blackberry porridge, which is guaranteed to warm you up from
garden.
the inside out. Beautifully presented in a large white bowl, the poached fruits are sweet and tender, hiding under a thick, crunchy layer of rolled
A large counter takes centre stage in the main room, home to their most
buckwheat and pistachios which provide a nice texture to the dish. It’s
important bit of machinery - the Strada coffee machine - which will no
finished with a generous dollop of orange blossom labneh and a slice of
doubt churn out hundreds of coffees throughout the day. Don’t miss their
candied orange. This dish does taste more like a crumble that an “oaty”
display of treats in the cabinet, ranging from freshly baked croissants to
porridge, but very yummy nonetheless!
decadent cakes and pastries. If you’re into all the latest fad lattes like Matcha and Golden Lattes, you’ll The cafe is the brainchild of chef and owner Sarah Whitfield (Trei), number
love the drinks list here. As for me, I will stick to my standard latte thanks.
four in a successful series of cafes, hence the name the Fourth Chapter. And
I can’t wait to come back to try more of the menu.
with the likes of Christian Rocchi (Proper Protein) and her sister Jessica joining her in the kitchen, no doubt this will be another recipe to success.
FOURTH CHAPTER 385 High Street, Prahran
The all day breakfast menu is chock full of yummy treats, but be warned
PH: (03) 9510 2277
they don’t come cheap (some of the larger dishes are over $20). On the
fourthchapter.com.au
sweeter end of the spectrum, there’s the sumptuous hotcakes teamed
FACEBOOK: fourthchaptercafe
with passionfruit crème, coyo ice cream and salted macadamias, and the
INSTAGRAM: fourth_chapter
peanut butter s’more waffle elegantly topped with salted caramel, grilled
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BACKYARD SALAMI WORDS LAUREN BRUCE PHOTOGRAPHY ARRON OLLINGTON
To many of us, salami is as crucial to the pre-dinner antipasto platter as
Generally, home salami-making isn’t about producing the cured meat for
a good slab of creamy D’affinois might be, or a sweet quenelle of quince
commercial use. It’s just about feeding the family, having fun and making
paste.
delicious food from scratch. Perhaps most of all, it’s about upholding family traditions; and for some, creating new ones.
Of course, we’re used to buying this delicious salty cured meatstuff from our local deli; so perhaps less common knowledge is that come winter, a
For both Eminence Wines owner Clare Burder, and Co-Director of
salumi phenomenon takes place every year in garages and home cellars
Assemble Giuseppe Demaio, salami making is an excuse to get the friends
across the country.
and family together to have a good time.
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Homemade salami is very much steeped in the traditions of regional Italy. However, for Burder and her family, whose background is Australian and Maltese, making salami has grown into a favourite pastime regardless of the lack of Italian blood. Burder’s family owns a high plateau winery in the isolated Whitlands region - a stable, cool environment which lends itself well to hanging sausages and salami. Her brother is an avid hunter with licence to shoot deer on the property, which is why they began making venison sausages. “We didn’t like leaving the carcasses around, so my brother started using the meat,” Burder says. “It was a natural progression from sausages to salami, as they both require the same equipment.” While the family isn’t Italian, per se, the King Valley region’s prevalent Italian culture had a significant influence on the Burders. “I guess it was just sort of hanging around all these people that make salami and then giving it a crack ourselves,” Burder says. “Dad’s good friend Wally is from northern Italy and he taught us the northern Italian style of making salami, which means we don’t use any smoke and we use a narrow casing.” While they initially kept salami-making within the family, it wasn’t long before Burder’s friends started jumping on board. “It escalated really quickly; one year it was a couple of pig’s legs and a few of us, and now it’s three pigs and sixteen people. The process takes a whole day, everyone brings wine and food and we have a great time!” While Burder’s enthusiasm and passion for salami is certainly infectious, it is lovely to chat to Demaio about his experiences steeped in family traditions traced back to Southern Italy. Demaio runs Assemble, a company that produces art and design publication Assemble Papers, and creates small footprint projects that are focused on sustainability and human-centred design. Perhaps Demaio’s interest in community and sustainability stemmed from his family’s love of slow food and family tradition, driven by his father Pietro Demaio. While Demaio’s father is a doctor by trade, it was his avid interest in keeping his family’s Italian food culture alive that drove him to selfpublish the book Preserving The Italian Way in the early 2000s. “Dad started documenting the recipes about 20 years ago because he was kind of worried they were going to get lost,” Demaio says. “It was prefood frenzy, so there wasn’t this real interest in the whole slow food movement which has gone bananas over the last ten years. He was concerned all those great recipes, and all the stories that go along with them, would be lost.” Demaio’s father started collating recipes for many different Italian foods, including salami. “Like every tradition, every family had their different way of doing it, their own recipe,” Demaio says. “They were always a little bit secretive of what the magic ingredient was, and in the old days, that was always a fun part of it.”
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Demaio says that back then, the younger generation weren’t as interested
Demaio says there’s no doubt that the process of making salami, along
in the recipes as they might be now, given that food has become such a
with other traditional Italian foods, has helped him to better appreciate
fashionable part of culture. “These recipes that are kind of family heirlooms
food and where it comes from.
were in danger of not getting passed on.” “Growing up with my family, I’ve always had a connection with food and Demaio says there is no risk of that occurring now, given that he and his
what it takes to create it,” Demaio says. “Not just salami, but with a veggie
siblings have taken more of an interest in these family traditions as they
patch, [for example] - you know that you are going to get around 10kgs of
grow older. “I don’t know if it’s just because I’m not 20 anymore, but I’m
home grown tomatoes a year, and they’re going to be the most delicious
taking more of an interest in my parents and family and their backgrounds
tomatoes you ever eat. Salamis are similar. They’re precious; so you savour
generally. As an adult, you really enjoy spending time with your family,”
them quite a bit. We also bring them to people as presents; that’s quite a
Demaio says.
tradition too. And an Italian boy never goes to someone’s house without bringing something.”
“It’s that connection to culture that’s the nice thing about it; keeping that link. Migrants moved out here in the 50s, and I think [making food together]
Similarly, Burder says it’s really important for people to know what goes
was a way for them to stay connected with Italy, and to gather the Italian
into their food and where their food comes from.
community together. Now, two generations on, we’re still keeping that connection.
“I think there’s something really fundamental to the way we live in terms of [this kind of process],” Burder says. “Like winemaking, making salami
“It’s also just a great way of having an enjoyable day with your friends and
connects you with the land, it connects you with the product. It’s a group
family, with some good food to go with it. And [after you’ve made the
thing so there’s a social aspect, and there’s the idea of working together
salami] there’s nothing like getting some baguettes, firing up a few of the
to make something really cool. And there’s that beautiful chaos at the
fresh sausages on the barbecue and sampling the goodies.”
end where we all get to eat delicious salami. Any activity that results in a tangible product is good for the soul. So that, and getting a bit dirty and doing a bit of fun work is where the appeal is.
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“Making salami at home is awesome, trying to unravel a little bit of the
HOW TO MAKE HOMEMADE SALAMI
mystery while gaining huge bragging rights in the process. While I’m a winemaker and I get used to saying “I made this” about products, for a
Neither Demaio nor Burder’s family sell the salami they make commercially
lot of people, they don’t get to say that about their work. So for them, it’s
given the rigidity of the law around the industry. For both, it’s purely
really satisfying.”
for the enjoyment. “Making a meat product is a very highly regulated business, so in order to sell salami you need to make it in a certified facility, a commercial kitchen [that incorporates] many rules you need to adhere to. That’s why we just make it for us to eat,” Burder says. “With three pigs, we end up getting about 18 sticks of salami to take home each, which is about a year’s worth.” Like Burder, Demaio and his friends and family spend a couple of days down the Peninsula to uphold the family tradition. “We’ll get some meat to cure and head down the Peninsula. That’s when you have to think about what kind of space you have for the salami to cure in as well,” Demaio says. “We’ve got a cellar, which has relatively stable curing conditions for the salami. Optimal curing conditions are about 13 to 14 degrees, with around 70-80 per cent humidity so they don’t dry out too quickly.” Burder says salami-making is basically one step further than making regular sausages. “You make a big batch of mince, you’ll add your flavouring. We do three flavours: a plain one, a fennel and a chilli. And from three pigs we get about 280, 800g salamis.
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“There’s different ways you can cure meat; you can smoke it, you can cure
all the mould off and we re-hang them, and they go mouldy again. After
it with salt, you can dry it. But salami is a salt cure. So you have to break
about eleven weeks, we pull the skins off and then cryovac them (which is
down the carcasses and cut the fat off to use later, but we need the meat
sealing the salami in air-tight bags). They’ll last a year like that.”
and the fat to be separate. So the first part requires everyone pulling the pigs to bits, taking the bones out, and separating all the fat from the meat.
Burder says some people might feel squeamish about what goes on behind
Then we mince everything and weigh everything.”
the scenes in the salami-making process. “It seems a bit counter-intuitive in one way, like, ‘oh, I’m eating really old meat’. Sounds gross, right? But it’s
Burder says that once everything is weighed, it’s important to get the
actually delicious,” Burder says.
ratios of fat, meat and salt right in the mix. “It needs to be 30 per cent fat and then we want three per cent salt,” Burder says. “The salt is particularly
“We’ve never had any issues, health-wise. We’ve got a good recipe and we
important, because if you add too much salt to the meat, it’s too salty; but
don’t use any preservatives. We only use free-range organic pigs, which
if you don’t add enough, you run the risk of the salami going off.”
is really important because we’re making something which only has a few ingredients, so the pork has to be really, really good. There’s no other
Burder says this is different to other cured meats; for example, making
flavour to hide behind.”
prosciutto. “For prosciutto, you have to soak the whole leg in salt and then wait until the salt penetrates the meat that way; whereas with salami, the
Burder says that despite the involved process, she wouldn’t have it any
salt is already mixed into the mince,” Burder says. “So it’s actually a really
other way and gets excited about every salami-making event she hosts.
safe method of curing as a result.”
“With around 16 people coming up and getting involved, it’s a bit of a mission. But god it’s fun… it’s the best weekend of the year!”
After everyone gets elbow-deep in mixing the mince together, Burder and crew hang up the sausages. “They go into casings, and then into nets, and they’re hung up in our little salami curing room for about 11 weeks,” Burder says. “In about five or six weeks, they go really, really mouldy, but it’s a good mould, kind of like cheese mould. That mould gives the salami all the flavour and also actually stabilises the salami chemically. Then we wash
14
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16
UNITED KITCHEN
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ALEISHA MAK
Having opened in late November last year, United Kitchen Dining and Tapas
The cocktail page includes a number of different margaritas, and the Lemon
is a Latin American restaurant and cocktail bar on burgeoning Fitzroy
Thyme which contains tequila, altoviso, homemade lemon, thyme syrup
Street. The warm and inviting interior features concrete floors, wooden
and fresh lemon, is by far the most popular. Being my favourite cocktail at
trimmings, copper accents and splashes of greenery. All four walls are a
the moment, I couldn’t pass up the Ron Espresso Martini made with Ronde
display of various materials, creating a different feel on each side of the
Jeremy Rum, spiced syrup and Frangelico. It’s a little smoother, rounder
room.
and sweeter than most other espresso martinis. Cocktails at United Kitchen are made with house-made syrups.
A leather sofa and ottoman create the perfect ambience for drinks and nibbles around the drum tables, and a leather booth by the other window
Of the small bites available, the corn is beautifully charred and very cheesey.
that’s semi-private and cosy. The tables are well spaced, and there is a
Smothered in parmesan and blue vein cheese, and spiked with ancho chilli
quaint sense of privacy that’s often lacking in venues trying to squeeze
and lime, this dish is a sensation. The use of the milder ancho means the
in as many tables as possible. It creates a more relaxed environment that
spiciness doesn’t overwhelm the tastebuds. Absolutely delicious, and one
suits anything from romantic dates to group functions.
to rival Mamasita’s famous cob.
Head chef and owner, Tong Li is originally from Qingdao, China. Li spent a
It’s perhaps not so surprising that tapas feature heavily on the menu at
number of years living and working in Mexico, gaining invaluable cooking
United Kitchen. There’s a big chilli hit in the yellow fin tuna ceviche which
experience, before returning to China and establishing three award-
comes from both the chilli and salsa picante, and the pineapple and tomato
winning restaurants. United Kitchen is his first venture in Australia since
creates a foil for the heat. One particularly intriguing menu item is the
moving here, and the menu draws its influences from Mexican, Spanish and
crab meat stuffed avocado. Diced avocado is tossed with Blue Swimmer
Latin American cuisines, with touches of Asian inspiration.
crab meat, cherry tomato, onion, chili and lime before being presented
17
back in the avocado shell. Blue corn chips are used as the utensil, and it’s
A range of desserts are available, from fruity to rich. We try the peanut
a fabulous dish. There’s a variety of tostadas too. The slow-cooked pork
butter spring rolls. The thin, crispy pastry, which normally houses a savoury
version is paired with fresh pineapple, refried beans, Pico de Gallo and
mix of ingredients, here contains a warm and rich concoction of salted
guacamole, all served on a crispy tortilla. Substantial and satisfying.
caramel and peanut butter, accompanied by vanilla ice cream to balance things out. Salty and sweet, hot and cold, it’s a nice end to the meal.
A diverse spread of mains can be found, with seafood, poultry and meat all having a say. The slow-cooked pork belly is sweet and moist, topped
United Kitchen is on the quieter end of Fitzroy Street, but venture down
by a vibrant chimichurri sauce and refreshed with diced pineapple and
and you’ll be rewarded with a wonderful all-round dining experience that’s
salsa fresca. There’s also the crisp and juicy confit duck leg, teamed with a
well-worth a visit.
decedent brown butter fry-up of carrot, potato and peas, complemented by the sweeter elements of chopped fig and a pinot reduction.
UNITED DINING PH: 2/52 Fitzroy Street, Melbourne
You might enjoy your mains with some sides like potatoes seasoned
(03) 9534 4470
with parmesan flakes and truffle oil, green beans with chilli and a chorizo
unitedkitchen.com.au
crumb, or maybe the baked cauliflower seasoned with thyme and
facebook.com/unitedkitchendiningandtapas
shichimi, showered with a good scattering of shaved parmesan. Soft and
instagram.com/unitedkitchendiningtapas
flavoursome.
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THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE
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ALIMENTARI BY LINDA AND PAUL JONES In this beautiful book Linda and Paul from Alimentari
Spanish tortilla; mini ciabatta with scrambled eggs,
bring us their sumptuous deli favourites, recipes
prosciutto, sea salt; chickpea coriander fritters and
that are perfect for sharing and entertaining. It’s
semolina porridge with rhubarb compote.
where Mediterranean meets Middle Eastern, where delicious, wholesome ingredients and accessible
Alimentari’s recipes are ideal for an easy weeknight
techniques combine to create the perfect book for
dinner, long lunches or dinners with friends, lazy
nourishing home cooking.
weekend mornings and indulgent afternoon teas. It’s the perfect book for the home cook who wants
Alimentari includes dishes for every meal including
to eat well without too much hassle. Linda and Paul
early breakfast and brunch (yummy eggs), midday
have shared their own slice of foodie heaven so it’s
(light salads), later (Lebanese, from the woodfire
just like having your favourite corner café at home.
and sweets), and finishes with pickles, preserves and condiments. You’ll find favourites such as
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Available at all good bookstores.
THINGS WE LOVE CARPE KOKO CARPE KOKO (SEIZE THE CHOCOLATE) is a luxury chocolate gifting brand. The team delivers signature collections from Australia’s best chocolatiers in gift packaging that oozes opulence. It is really reflective of people wanting to try new, interesting and exciting things in food. We’re getting more bold and adventurous as our tastes evolve, and Carpe Koko aims to represent that With a plan to continue recruiting new chocolatiers with a dedication to quality and creativity - the key to CARPE KOKO is creating variety, and what better way than by working with world class chocolatiers who each use different techniques to create complex chocolate creations. At Carpe Koko, the packaging is equally as important as the chocolates. They’ve worked hard on designing a more tangible gift experience because they know it creates stronger emotional connections with customers. Like an iPhone box or a Louis Vuitton shopping bag, the Carpe Koko gift boxes are almost too good to discard. Designed with the hope they’ve created something that will be cherished and possibly even used for other purposes. www.carpekoko.com hello@carpekoko.com 08 8227 0666
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Squashed Grapes is an online retail platform developed to support sales of
In addition there were some other exciting grapes being served from
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Tellurian in Heathcote VIC, Bress in Harcourt VIC, Vinteloper from Watervale
generally limited. They aim to bring you good value, quality and often award
SA, Clairault from Margaret River WA and Medhurst from Yarra Valley, VIC.
winning Australian wine, also offering themed packs and hampers. Through its website and social media channels, Squashed Grapes will Squashed Grapes officially launched on Friday 8th July holding an
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event for its customers, suppliers and wine enthusiasts at St Ali in South
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21
A FOODIE’S GUIDE TO HAWAII WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY MEGAN OSBORNE
Hawaii is a wonderful destination to relax and soak up the surf and sun.
fare and classy cocktails bring hoards of Hawaiians and visitors alike to
Locals take things slow in Hawaii—after all, we all know the scenic route
Chinatown in Downtown Honolulu. A family business, Chef and Owner
is more enjoyable—and this is reflected in all aspects of business, leisure
Andrew Le affectionately holds the title of ‘The Pig’, while his mother
and love. Family is important, and food—especially sharing of food—is at
wears the crown of ‘The Lady’, bringing a dining vibe with a strong
the heart of that. There is a rising trend of healthier options, to nourish the
emphasis on family and sharing. While some menu items stay true to
body with vibrant, fresh and seasonal produce, but still plenty to pad the
traditional Southeast Asian flavours—such as the green papaya and
sides, too. GRAM on tour recently visited the islands of Oahu and Maui,
crispy rice salad, or the Laotian fried chicken—there are some menu
sipping and tasting extensively—all in the name of providing our dear
items that really contrast, like the black truffle Cacio e Pepe, a creamy
readers with a curated guide to the best foodie spots to visit, of course.
and decadently cheesy truffle pasta. Don’t go with expectations of cuisines or style, simply go expecting impressive flavour and memorable
OAHU
combinations. The yuzu semifreddo with cocoa coffee crumble and a
Oahu is a popular destination for travellers on business and leisure alike.
thepigandthelady.com
sugar cured yolk is a bit of a showstopper.
Families flock to Waikiki Beach, as those on business trips settle themselves in the city centre of Honolulu. With loads of activities and adventures to suit any type of visitor, so comes a variety of dining destinations. Here are
Hawaiian Crown Plantation
our picks, from one Melbourne foodie, to another. We hope this sets you up
One of the many great things about visiting Hawaii, is that tropical fruit
to get the most out of your Oahu trip (and into your stomach!).
is often in season. Although supermarkets spoil the average Melburnian, for those who prefer to shop at seasonal markets, words like pineapple, papaya and lilikoi are not in the foodie vocabulary. Oh… that last one might
The Pig and the Lady
be because lilikoi is Hawaiian for passionfruit! Hawaiian Crown Plantation
Fans of contemporary, on-the-pulse Asian inspired cuisine absolutely—it’s
is an adorable little hole-in-the-wall shop in Honolulu, a few blocks down
a non negotiable—MUST try The Pig and the Lady. Vietnamese inspired
from the main shopping strip. Here you will find fresh and nourishing acai
22
bowls, bursting with flavour pineapple smoothies, and dried pineapple—
activities. A great place for families, couples or singles, Waikiki is definitely
which the welcoming staff will enthusiastically convince you to sample.
a hot spot. The Modern Honolulu pairs contemporary class and style with a
In such warm weather, a cold and fruity start to the day is just what the
sophisticated beach vibe, represented through whitewashed walls, modern
surfing doctor ordered.
amenities, and artwork such as the deconstructed surfboard in the lobby.
hawaiiancrown.com
General Manager Kelly Hoen tells us the design is; ‘almost exclusively dominated by white, which creates the clean crisp beauty giving way to the exquisite colours of Hawaii. The hotel’s interiors evidence every nuance
The Modern Honolulu / Morimoto
of the many shades of white: bone, cream, greige, putty, ecru, soaped-
Waikiki Beach is a popular spot for tourists, with a string of hotels along
oak.’ This recognition of the vibrance of Hawaii, collides with the forward
the waterside boasting days worth of restaurants, shopping and water
progression of the city of Honolulu. Hoen describes the experience at The Modern as ‘Hawaii Next’. ‘We are committed to delivering the very best
23
in Honolulu and Hawaii in art, fashion, culinary, music and interesting
The vibrant and eclectic cuisine brings in locals and visitors, with Executive
experiences on and off property.’ She says.
Sous Chef Andy Reagan telling us the patrons consist of around 60% visitors, and a booming 40% locals. He puts this down to: ‘Chef Morimoto’s
After musing over the intricacies of a chopped up and repositioned
unique culinary concept, which seamlessly integrates western ingredients
surfboard, turn around during the day, and you’ll find a wall-to-wall
with traditional Japanese culinary sensibilities and techniques’, setting
bookshelf, holding not just reading material, but more artwork and visitor
Morimoto apart from other waterfront restaurants in Waikiki, Reagan says.
information. Behind the bookshelf however, is a buffet dining area in the morning, and a hopping hidden bar at night—called The Study—often with
With a menu that boasts succulent potstickers—done the way they should
live music playing by local acts. Sip on a smooth cocktail while you mingle
be—the beef carpaccio is also a must try, as well as a decadent souffle,
with locals and tourists alike, and enjoy the experience of live artists.
accompanied with a sweet but subtle guava ice cream. Reagan tells us that the tuna pizza is the most-ordered dish, and with big eye tuna, anchovy
The dining at The Modern Honolulu continues the trend of ‘cutting-edge’,
aioli, olives, tomatoes and jalepeno, we can see why. Do yourself a favour
and local, house-made ingredients star. The show stopping restaurant
and choose a cocktail to accompany your exquisite meal, the cucumber
Morimoto sits dockside, with a stunning view that encompasses the crisp
shiso collins is a ripper.
beach, boats on the water, all the way across to the business district of the
www.themodernhonolulu.com
city where the sun conveniently sets, completing the pretty-as-a-picture vibe. Expect seasonal produce that’s fresh from the farm and ocean, sourced from Oahu and neighbouring islands of Maui and the Big Island.
Goofy Cafe and Dine
When guests arrive at Morimoto, they enter into a divine and surreal
If you thought lining up for a cafe was only a Melbourne thing, either you’re
setting designed by Thomas Schoos. Picture floating coral encased in
wrong, or a lot of Melburnian’s visit Waikiki! Goofy Cafe and Dine will have
resin, and a table with live seaweed growing beneath the glass surface.
a line during breakfast and lunch, but if you sneak in in-between times,
24
you can enjoy a peaceful atmosphere and down-to-earth service. Surf
where you can select some tasty treats to go. Room service also includes
memorabilia, photographs and icons are worked into the decor, along
extensive options from the onsite restaurants, if you’re simply too knackered
with a rustic beach shack vibe. Grab an acai bowl topped with tropical
from a day of water sports and enjoying the sunny hospitality of Waikiki.
pineapple and papaya, or munch down on some tasty charred corn. The
Did we mention the view from the balcony of The Outrigger is to die for?
menu takes a healthy and nutritional approach, with a focus on veggies,
It’s worth getting room service if just so you can sit outside and enjoy
and a motto that states; ‘Local first, organic wherever possible.’
watching the palms gently sway in front of surfers gliding (or crashing)
www.goofy-honolulu.com
down the waves toward the soft, sandy shore. Holiday perfection. www.outriggerwaikikihotel.com
The Outrigger Waikiki Beach Smack bang between sandy shores and the shopping district, is The
Cinnamon’s at the Ilikai
Outrigger Waikiki Beach. Aside from sporting one ripper iconic view of
Move over your traditional hotel brekkie. Cinnamon’s has everything from
the beach through a line of palm trees while you lounge by the pool,
pancakes to omelettes, but the flavour and freshness is unparalleled. The
it’s also got a number of dining options, too. Pick from Duke’s Waikiki
guava pancakes are the selling point—that and the scenic, oceanside,
restaurant, which serves up some sizzling steaks or epic breakfasts,
al fresco dining area. The meals are hearty and generous, and packed
or upstairs grab a table at Hula Grill Waikiki, where they put a spin on
full of taste—a common theme in Hawaii. While the plates won’t win an
breakfast, think Benedict Bao! Blue Note Hawaii hosts a relaxed dinner
Instagram-worthy award, it will be something you simply disregard after
service, accompanied by live jazz, blues and Hawaiian music.
the first bite. Melburnians: Guavas are delicious. Guava pancakes are food-coma worthy.
The Outrigger Waikiki Beach has its own array of shopping inside the
www.cinnamons808.com
building, from a jewellery to convenience store, our pick was the deli,
25
MAUI Sea turtles, a plethora of vibrant coral and fish, and some sweet surfing spots, too; Maui is a holiday goers paradise. From resorts to shacks, rainforest roads to lavender farms, we took a deep-dive into the eclectic food scene. Not afraid to fully embrace tasty trends such as tropical acai bowls, and piping hot Portuguese doughnuts, here’s GRAM’s pick of where to eat when in Maui.
Frida’s Beach House An unassuming Mexican joint, situated mere meters from the crashing shore of Lahaina, Frida’s Beach House is a pleasant surprise of warm hospitality and intensely flavourful food. Expect your regular Mexican fare such as nachos and tacos, with salsa sporting an authentic fiery kick. Central and South American influences also appear on the menu and the Rib Eye Mojo De Ajo is a meal you don’t want to miss out on. Cooked to tender perfection, it’s served with black or refried beans, and a tangy citrus salsa with roasted garlic and Pico de Gallo. The wellpicked wine list sets the tone for a blissed out evening, along with a vibrant cocktail selection—try the Rum DMC; because it’s tropical and you’re in Hawaii, duh. fridasmaui.com
Home Maid Bakery Home Maid Bakery in Wailuku on the north side of Maui is where you will find piping hot, melt-in-your-mouth, please-sir-may-I-have-tenmore, delicious, doughy balls of heaven. They’re called Malasadas, a Portuguese treat that is essentially a light and fluffy version of a doughnut—sans filling—rolled in crystalline sugar. Eat your first batch before driving away, because it’s just simple fact; you will go back for seconds. www.homemaidbakery.com
Roadside Fruit on the Road to Hana The Road to Hana is an iconic journey, filled with breathtaking waterfalls, and hair-raising winding roads. Stop plenty of times along the way to pick wild mangoes, watch schools of dolphins from the top of a cliff, swim in a black sand beach, or—we know, your personal favourite—eat a vibrant array of fresh fruit from roadside vendors. Along the journey you will pass plenty of honesty boxes, with treats such as papayas, mountain apples, bananas, mangoes, limes, and lilikoi. What they don’t have in polished looks such as ones fresh off the supermarket shelf, they make up for in juicy, intense flavour. The bananas may be as big as your thumb, but boy oh boy, that’s one tasty thumb.
Coconut Glen’s Vegan’s rejoice. Hawaii is a bit of a vegan paradise, and Coconut Glen’s is the king on top of the castle. Situated on the Road to Hana, this roadside shack is filled with character and quirk. Its tasty and interesting flavour combinations are organic and completely dairy free, and on top of all that pretty darn memorable. With all your seasonal fruit flavours, there are some interesting twists with Matcha, as well. www.coconutglens.com
Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop
pomegranate, or Maui french toast. There are multiple handmade cone
While sweet pies seem to be exceedingly popular in the United States, the
styles to choose from as well, and tonnes of toppings to well and truly treat
savoury pies at Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop are the real standouts—or
yo’ self. When you’re done being healthy from a day of eating—divine—acai
maybe it’s just the Melburnian coming out in me. The rich braised beef with
bowls and superfood salads, head to Island Cream Co. for a little scoop of
red wine demi, russet potato and creamy horseradish pot pie is crowned
heaven.
with a flaky, crunchy and delightful golden pastry. It goes brilliantly with the
www.islandcreamco.com
fried salad of brussel sprouts, burnt orange vinaigrette, celery leaves, radish and mint. www.leodas.com
Slappy Cakes Tacky? Yes. Does it matter? Heck no! Head to Slappy Cakes early, or you will have to line up amidst hoards of large, rambunctious and hangry
Olawalu Juice Stand
families. Slappy cakes is an odd mix between a traditional diner-style
Next door to Leoda’s is a fresh fruit market, and a pumping juice and
brekkie joint, and a Korean bbq self-serve restaurant. Each booth is
smoothie station. Sugar cane juice is on offer, and creamy flavours such
fitted with a hot plate, and the pancakes are ordered by batter type,
as dragonfruit, pineapple, lime, or of course, Hawaii’s favourite, lilikoi.
then toppings. Delivered in an easy to use squeeze bottle, you can even practice your pancake art while you much on sweet, sweet stacks. Seasonal batter is a must-try, especially when it’s lilikoi!
Choice Health Bar
www.slappycakes.com/locations/maui/
Note to reader: when booking accommodation, make sure you’re close enough to dine at Choice Health Bar for at least one breakfast, and one lunchtime meal. The healthiest meals (that you’ll most likely have for
Hana Ranch Provisions
your entire trip) are packed with such an abundance of flavour—you’d
In the town of Paia in Maui, lives a delightful dining concept; Hana Ranch
never know it was good for you. Pick from an extensive list of acai bowls,
Provisions. Pay a visit to this upmarket yet still casual restaurant in the
smoothies, buddha bowls and superfood salads. Absolutely stunning, and
charming island town, after having a stroll through the relaxed streets
scrumptiously perfect, if only there was one of these in Melbourne (and it
with a beach vibe. Putting paddock to plate into practice, Hana Ranch
was summer all year around!).
Provisions serves stunning produce from it’s own local organic farm and
www.choicehealthbar.com
cattle ranch in east Maui. The ‘ulu and sweet potato gnocchi in brown butter with balsamic and parmesan is decadently sweet, and precisely light like gnocchi should be. The braised Hana short ribs are also a win
Island Cream Co.
for meat-lovers, but the real showstopper, was unexpectedly the house-
With a tag line ‘we make cravings!’, you know you’re in for a wickedly
made ginger beer. Don’t worry, you can get it in a cocktail!
good treat. Island Cream Co. take the scoop for some of Hawaii’s best ice
www.hanaranchprovisions.com
cream. Try your tongue with flavours such as sweet potato pie, chocolate
WHITE MOJO WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY SWEET AND SOUR FORK
For the longest time, good brunch in the outer Eastern Suburbs was
previously at the much more traditional Snow Pony, Ben is keen to keep
synonymous with Snow Pony. Whenever someone said they were going
ahead of the current trends. That means breads from Rustica, tailor made
out for brunch, there was pretty much no need to ask them where they
coffee blends (made from two processing methods; fully natural and wet-
were going, as the answer was either obvious, or probably not worth
hulled), and of course, the ubiquitous matcha latte.
hearing. Slowly but surely however, cafes have been popping up (like colourful toadstools!) closer to my outer-east ‘hood, and all of a sudden,
The light coffee roast is clean and fruity, but not overly acidic, and is a
brunch is no longer synonymous with getting up at 8am on a Sunday.
refreshing brew that still carries a rich robustness. The hot chocolate is made using chocolate from Mork, and is a wonderfully sweet and creamy
One of the newest brunch additions to the Eastern suburbs is White Mojo.
drink.
The second branch of the CBD original, which has been dubbed as real life click-bait. The interior is a bright, minimalistic place that nevertheless
The Chilli Prawn And Chorizo is an absolute beauty of a dish. The prawns
manages to feel family friendly, thanks to little touches like the honeycomb
took centre stage; the sous-vide process had rendered them pearly and
patterned walls, and the French bulldog mural splashed opposite the
translucent, whilst infusing them with spices. Accompanied by slices
entrance. The staff look adorable in their uniform of white shirts and
of chorizo, and tender grilled scallops, this dish does pack a little heat,
leather aprons.
especially if you choose to eat the fresh chillies. Not to worry though, the white beans in yoghurt sauce will fix you right up. This was an indulgent
Ben Luo, one of the co-owners, takes great pride in his cafe. Having worked
28
but elegant brunch that wouldn’t look out of place at the dinner table
(once you get rid of the toast), but it is quite a light serve so save this for
The Eton Mess comes on a bed of organic strawberry yoghurt, that seems
when you plan on having dessert.
to grown a garden of feathery meringue shards, fresh berries, freeze-dried fruits, and flower petals, with a few daubs of coconut gel for a hint of that
Equally as good (and as un-brunch-like) is the standout the salmon
robust nuttiness. This is a breakfast dessert that ticks all the sugary boxes,
tartare. The sashimi-grade fish is plump and fresh, mixed with spicy mayo
without any accompanying guilt.
and creamy dollops of miso avocado puree. The micro herbs and sweet dehydrated onion slivers give the dish some zing. Scoop it up with the
In a part of Melbourne where the brunch scene has only recently begun to
bagel crisps, and you have yourself a scrumptious brunch that’s healthy
bud, White Mojo tears in like a hurricane. Its offerings are imaginative and
to boot!
beautiful, with flavours to match. It is on the pricey side, but it’s worth it for the quality of food and service you’re getting.
Let’s take a moment to wax lyrical about the 63 degree egg served with the tartare. These eggs are slowly and gently cooked in a 63 degree water
WHITE MOJO
bath, and the result is a homogenously ooey-gooey egg. For those of you
182-184 Whitehorse Road, Balwyn
who think poaching is as good as it gets, you need to try these.
facebook.com/whitemojocafe instagram.com/whitemojo
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CAULIFLOWER AND CHICKPEA SALAD With almonds, fried onion and sultanas
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
Serves 4–6 as a starter or light meal
Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F). Lightly
To make the dressing, place all of the ingredients
grease a baking tray.
in a small bowl and whisk to combine.
1 head cauliflower, cut into florets
Fill a small saucepan about 2 cm (¾ in) full with
To serve, fold the chickpeas, sultanas, almonds
2 brown onions, finely sliced
oil and heat until it just starts to simmer.
and cauliflower together in a large salad bowl.
canola or sunflower oil for shallow-frying
Add the coriander, parsley and basil, top with
1 piece Lebanese flat bread, torn into bite-sized pieces
Add the cauliflower and fry until golden brown.
the fried onion and drizzle the tahini dressing
olive oil, for drizzling
Remove and drain on paper towel. Then add the
over.
1 ½ tablespoons ghee
onions and cook until crisp and lightly golden.
100 g (3 ½ oz) slivered almonds
Remove and drain.
Finally, gently fold in the toasted flatbread.
Spread the flatbread onto the prepared tray,
Note: to cook chickpeas, start the night before
50 g (1 ¾ oz) sultanas
sprinkle with salt and drizzle with olive oil. Bake
by soaking 125g (4½ oz) dried chickpeas in
(golden raisins)
for 10-15 minutes or until golden. Set aside to
cold water. The next day, drain then rinse the
1 bunch coriander (cilantro),
cool.
chickpeas and place in a large saucepan. Cover
200 g (7 oz) cooked (see note) or drained tinned chickpeas
with fresh water and bring to the boil. Reduce
leaves picked and roughly chopped
the heat and cook for 1 ½ hours or until tender.
1 bunch flat-leaf (Italian)
Place the ghee in a shallow frying pan over low
parsley, leaves picked and roughly chopped
heat. When melted, add the almonds and cook
1 bunch basil, leaves torn
until golden. This happens quite quickly so make
Drain into a colander and toss in a splash of
sure you keep your eye on the ball while tossing
good olive oil.
DRESSING
the almonds around. Drain on paper towel.
1 garlic clove, crushed 150 g (5 ½ oz) tahini 200 g (7 oz) Greek-style yoghurt juice of 1 lemon
This is an edited extract from Alimentari by Linda and Paul Jones published by Hardie Grant Books RRP $39.99. Available nationally August 1, 2016
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REVIEWS CHUM CREEK COFFEE - BLEND 443 WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG If you read the title of this month’s review a little too
to bring out the earthier flavour profiles. It was this
quickly you may think I’ve moved to a desert island and
crowd pleasing blend that caught the attention of the
resorted to drinking Nescafé Blend 43. Funnily enough
team from Four Pillars when they opened their beautiful
instant coffee is exactly what Greg Liney, owner and
new distillery in Healesville in 2015. With a focus on
roaster of Chum Creek Coffee used to drink a long time
very high quality gin which is now award winning and
ago before he launched his brand and Blend 443 which
internationally recognised, when choosing the coffee it
is his street address.
was important for them to support a local roaster who also had a passion for creating a superior product.
After running a pottery studio for 15 years and moving to viticulture following an injury, Greg spent the next
Other than the 443, Greg has a selection of rotating
20 years making wine until the vineyard he was leasing
single origins and also has another blend called 3777
was severely burnt in the 2009 bushfires. During this
which is only available on Saturdays when he pops up
time his interest in coffee grew and Greg started home
at the Healesville Organic Farmers Market from 8am -
roasting. The fruit he was producing at the vineyard
1pm. It is also worth noting that Chum Creek Coffee is
was contracted to Giant Steps/Innocent Bystander in
a financial supporter of Coffee Kids and also Faircrack.
Healesville and when they purchased a large roaster in
org which donates money for supplies and facilities on
2011, he was asked to develop their house blend and
the ground level in coffee growing communities. Other
start roasting for them. Realising that he had incurred
than the market and the suppliers listed below you can
too many losses with the vineyard due to the fires, a
also grab Greg’s coffee by mail order via email or phone.
year later Greg decided to go out on his own and set up Chum Creek Coffee and create a flagship blend with an
This is one cup you’ll have to travel out of the city for
emphasis on quality and service.
but totally worth it, especially if you come home with a bottle or two of awesome gin -
Blend 443 is comprised of ethically sourced beans from Brazil (Fazenda Santo Antonio), El Salvador (Finca El Carmen), India (Thalanar Estate, Elephant Hills) and Rwanda (Nyungwe Washing Station), with all the coffee direct traded and specialty grade. Often when you come across beans like these, they are roasted lightly in order to bring out the fruitier characteristics, however Greg realised very quickly that especially around the Yarra Valley area it would be difficult to sell and that the
Four Pillars Distillery - 2A Old Lilydale Rd Healesville Cherry Tree Cafe - 246 Maroondah Hwy Healesville Round Bird Can’t Fly - 170 Main St Lilydale Little Joe - 3416 Warburton Hwy Warburton The Hicksborough General Store & Cafe - Bass Highway Wonthaggi North Seville Estate Winery - 65 Linwood Rd Seville The Bearded Bean (mobile coffee cart available for hire) Seth 0430 077 387
coffee needed to be roasted medium to dark in order
BAR/D UP Video Feature - Lounge, CBD In collaboration with Bacardi The name Lounge makes you think of space that’s
go back and forth up Swanston Street. Don’t bother
comfortable, chilled and unpretentious. Add Lounge
going home, sitting on the couch and eating in front of
Kitchen into the mix and you’ve got a bar with no bullshit
the TV, there’s a better way to lounge and all you have
and tasty eats. There’s a completely redesigned menu,
to do is climb a flight of stairs.
very much a fusion of Spanish tapas with Asian flavours and the concept is to create a shared experience around the table with inspired yet delicious food in a relaxed environment. From the zucchini and haloumi fritters Head to bardup.com.au to view the full video.
and the eggplant silken tofu san choi bao to sliders and the sticky slow cooked beef ribs, there’s food to suit everyone and it all goes really well with any of the great beers on tap or signature mojito. A fave amongst the uni crowd, the venue is open from lunchtime until late with guest DJs and live music to keep you on your toes well into the night. Get there early especially on a Friday so you can secure a spot on the balcony amongst the treetops and watch the trams
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LOUNGE 243 Swanston Street, Melbourne (03) 9663 2916 lounge.com.au
HOLGATE ALPHA CRUCIS AUSTRALIAN IPA WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY TREV BIRKS - ON THE BANDWAGON I’m visiting Woodend on a typical winter’s day and
encapsulates the message we want to share. It’s a
without exaggeration I can honestly say it’s colder
beautifully showcases the three Australian hops of
than a tin toilet seat of the shady side of an iceberg.
Galaxy, Topaz and Victoria Secret hops. Think tropical
I know Holgate Brewery has an open fire, so what
fruit, grassy and zingy citrus notes, a perfect summer
better excuse than to enjoy a pint or two while I
session IPA really.”
defrost. I know what you’re thinking – Extra Special Bitter on hand pump would be the perfect beer on this
I’m a massive fan of the concept and the fact that
occasion, but my eye caught something unfamiliar, an
this beer is an IPA made exclusively out of Australian
all-Australian India Pale Ale.
ingredients, well it’s great for our agricultural friends out there too. So, if you’re after an approachable
Part of Holgate’s renowned Tank 9 Series, Alpha
take on an IPA with fresh bright flavours and 100%
Crucis is made with Australian malts and highlights
Australian grown, owned and made I give you the
three Australian hops – Galaxy, Topaz and Vic Secret.
Alpha Crucis.
It’s vibrant without being too aggressive and reminds me of warm summer days and BBQs. It’s now become
Alpha Crucis has been available on tap at selected
part of the regular line up which speaks volumes for
venues for some weeks now, but the exciting news
the brewery’s willingness to test the boundaries of
is you can now get it in bottles. Hit up the Holgate
Australian beer drinkers’ palate and find something
website for more details or chat to the guys at
hoppy that becomes “the norm”. I had a beer with
Bendigo On The Hop winter beer festival on Saturday,
Mike Harris, Holgate’s National Sales Manager and
20 August. Cheers!
asked him about this session star. “At Holgate, we are aiming for innovation in both the industry and in beer. It’s not really common yet to highlight the provenance of Australian craft beer and the quality of the local ingredients we are using. Alpha Crucis (being the brightest star in the Southern Cross)
ABV: 5.5% STYLE: Australian India Pale Ale SERVING TEMP: 4-6 degrees FOOD PAIRING: Mexican Beef Fajitas (or, native mountain pepper crusted, rare kangaroo salad) ORIGIN: Woodend, Victoria PRICE (RRP): $22 for a 6 pack x 330ml BUY IT HERE: www.holgatebrewhouse.com.au
TOSCHI THE ORIGINAL NOCELLO 700ML Italy - RRP $55 WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LA DONNA DEL VINO There comes a time of the year when the temperature
taste of a walnut skin, but the overriding sensation is
drops and we spend a little more time indoors
delicately nutty and sweet. Drink it neat in winter by a
than usual. Friends pop over for dinner and we eat
cosy fire and watch the night roll on.
something delicious together by the warming fire. Lately, instead of offering a coffee at the end of the
Alternatives to try for the sweet nutty tooth: Le Birlou
meal we pull out a liqueur or spirit, something to warm
French liqueur (apples and hazelnuts) and Vincenzi
the body while the conversation continues well into
Amaretto (almonds)
the night. This particular one, the original Nocello by Toschi, is an old Italian classic and a favourite.
Stockists: Boccaccio Cellars, North Balwyn
For those who typically avoid the marzipan notes in Amaretto, perhaps Nocello is the right alternative to consider. Pour a little into a small glass and the viscous amber-coloured liquid will invite you with aromas of walnuts, hazelnuts and a hint of vanilla. It is unquestionably sweet and 24% is the right amount of warming alcohol, but this is the perfect antidote to the cold. There is a little bitterness in the finish like the
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OUT AND ABOUT OYSTER FRENZY #12
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Melbourne’s longest running, all-you-can eat Oyster Frenzy returned on July 21 to a sell out crowd. The first instalment for 2016 (the second is coming up in August) was held at St Kilda’s iconic roof top terrace, The Deck at Circa, at a shell’s throw from Port Phillip Bay.
With a bounty of oyster varieties on show, alongside an array of hot and cold seafood canapés, ticket holders most certainly got their fill. This year also featured the Mussel Shack from POW Kitchen and ceviche station by Acland St Cantina.
THE DIARY SK
12 - 15 September, 2016
FINE FOOD AUSTRALIA Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre
Fine Food Australia is the country’s leading trade exhibition for the foodservice, hospitality and retail industries. The event will present new and innovative products from around Australia and from over 45 countries internationally, as well as live demonstrations, masterclasses and industry recognised competitions. The annual show attracts over 1,000 exhibitors from Australia and the world, and alternates between Sydney and Melbourne each September. 2016 will see Fine Food Australia return to Melbourne from the 12-15 September at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre.
31 August, 2016
STREET EATS: THE PERFECT BURGER 27 August, 2016
PINOT NOIR MASTERCLASS Milk the Cow - 323 Lygon Street, Carlton
This Masterclass is your chance to experience ten superb pinot noirs from Australia, France, Germany, the US and New Zealand matched with wonderful cheeses in the relaxed ambience of Milk the Cow licensed fromagerie in Carlton. Here’s what to expect at this fun and informative event: - An opportunity to try ten superb pinot noir wines matched with equally superb cheeses - Gain a real understanding of this intriguing and wonderful grape variety, one of the oldest to be used for making wine - Learn about pinot noir’s intricate characteristics, ageing potential, best time to drink, food matching, serving temperature and glassware to use - Shared cheeseboards with breads, lavosh and detailed notes will accompany the showcased wines - Detailed Masterclass notes will be distributed at the end of the workshop
The Neff Market Kitchen - South Melbourne Market
If you are a burger fan, this class is a ‘must’. It starts with braised beef croquettes followed by Paul sharing his crucial tips and techniques, from what makes the best beef pattie to choice of pickles, sauce and cheese blend he uses to create the perfect ‘Grosvenor’ burger. Then it’s your turn to construct and enjoy your own burger and loaded fries with a choice of beverages. For an absolutely delicious finish sample peanut butter gelato with a cocoa nib and peanut ice cream cone. Get up close and personal with the chefs from some of Melbourne’s best restaurants. Sharing their extraordinary knowledge and expertise, our Master Class chefs will show you how to create the food that they are famous for and teach you how to take your cooking to the next level. LENGTH: 2.5 hours SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate - high INCLUDES: Dinner and recipe pack COST: $135.00 pp SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU/COOKING-SCHOOL
28 August, 2016
FRANKSTON AND SOUTH EASTERN WINE SHOW 2016 The Barn at The Briars Historic Park, 450 Nepean Highway, Mount Martha
Come down to the open amateur winemaking competition organised by Frankston Amateur Winemakers Guild showcasing home-made wines from fruit, vegetables, flowers, herbs and red/white grape wines. Competition categories to be judged include still, sparkling, fortified wines and liqueurs.
Guiding the Masterclass will be wine expert Bela Rice, who has nearly 30 years’ experience in the wine industry selling, consulting, distributing and educating. The cheeses have been selected by cheesemonger Laura Lown. Originally from the UK, Laura has recommended cheeses to HRH Queen Elizabeth and trains Heston Blumenthal’s chefs here in Melbourne. MILKTHECOW.COM.AU
Tasting the many wines available, you may meet the winemakers and learn the techniques required to make your own wine. Winemaking information is available and applications for new members are most welcome. Sample wines made from citrus fruits, stone fruits, berries, guavas, carrots, parsnips, herbs and many other exotic ingredients. Red and white wines such as shiraz, cabernet, merlot, pinot noir, riesling, chardonnay and muscat are usually well represented. The guild meets once a month, in Mt. Martha at The Briars Historic Property, to exchange winemaking tips and techniques; to taste and assess member’s wines and to generally promote home winemaking. Social events such as wine tasting tours and winemaking supplier’s visits are organised throughout the year. The Briars Park has many other activities. These include picnic facilities, the visitor information centre, easy wildlife bushwalks, bird hide viewing areas, and historic 1840’s homestead with Napoleonic memorabilia, Josephine’s Restaurant and historic farm implement display. Located on the Mornington Peninsula, the venue is close to the peninsula’s beaches, tourist attractions and country side. Commercial wineries are close at hand along with many fine foods and produce outlets. Why not have the whole day out on the peninsula, starting with the wine tasting and wine show. FAWG.ORG.AU
13 August, 2016
TOKO PRAHRAN WINE DEGUSTATION LUNCH Toko Melbourne - 142 Grenville Street, Prahran
Indulge in a modern Japanese food and wine experience. 14 August, 2016
SHIRAZ HEAVEN WINE LUNCH The Grosvenor Hotel - 10 Brighton Road, St Kilda East
What happens when two perfect settings collide? You enjoy one of the best wine lunches you’ve ever had. On 14th August, Heaven on Earth is found at Grosvenor Hotel. There you will indulge in glass-after-glass of perfect Heathcote Shiraz Wines. Heathcote wines originate in a unique micro-climate setting which produces shiraz styles with power, elegance, and a voluptuous fruit flavour. While at the fabulous Grosvenor Hotel, feasting on mouth-watering three course cuisine matched to these exceptional wines. Reserve your seat for only $129. WWW.GROSVENORHOTEL.COM.AU
The finest of contemporary Japanese style and traditional Japanese cuisine fuse seamlessly at Melbourne’s upmarket new Japanese restaurant, Toko. Over a luscious and lingering lunch you will be treated to a delectable five-course informal style izakaya dining experience, highlighting Australia’s finest fresh produce matched with six boutique Australian wines, while relaxing amid stunning contemporary surrounds. All this and more at an unmatched, discounted price! Where: Toko Melbourne, 142 Greville St, Prahran When: Saturday August 13 What time: 1pm to 4pm Wow much: $79 per person The lunch includes: Five courses of exquisite Japanese cuisine. Six sensational Australian boutique wines to try. A professional wine educator and judge will be here to teach you some things about the wine you will be drinking and answer all your wine questions. WWW.TOKO-MELBOURNE.COM
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