MELBOURNE
ISSUE 13
FREE
Where Australasian coffee lovers get their fix...
beanscenemag.com.au
BeanSceneEd
BIMBODELUXE.COM.AU
BeanScene
SCAN TAG TO FIND OUT MORE
Mon-Fri 12-4pm Sun-Thu 7-11pm Saturday 7-9pm
e fre en now t u Gl tion le. op ailab $2 av tra Ex
LUCKYCOQ.COM.AU
Mon-Fri Mon-Thu Fri & Sat Sun till
12-4pm 7-11pm 7-9pm 11pm
376 Smith St. Collingwood 3066 Phone: +61 3 9417 2233 www.robertburnshotel.com.au facebook.com.au/robertburnshotel
Gram magazine is a free monthly publication
Melbourne strips and venues in Melbourne’s CBD and inner city
dedicated to promoting this exciting and
suburbs, our readers can enjoy the magazine over a meal, a coffee,
diverse food culture that Melbourne has
a drink or a snack.
become renowned for.
And while the author of each featured blog has their own unique
Each issue of Gram features a compilation
style and flair, one thing that remains constant is that they all seek
of food and drink based blogs that have
to put a positive spin on Melbourne’s food and drink scene.
been taken from the blogosphere and
We thank all the bloggers that have been involved in this issue
published in magazine format for our
and look forward to growing our relationship with members of the
readers to enjoy. By utilising Microsoft® Tag
blogging community over coming months.
technology, readers can quickly and easily switch between print and web, thus providing a solid interaction between these two
This month
media platforms.
Summer has now well and truly kicked off and that means cherry
Gram magazine provides you with a snapshot of articles, opinions
season! Not only does this delicious stone fruit taste delicious, it is
and reviews that have been published online by local food
also jam packed with nutrients too. Within the pages of this issue
bloggers, bringing the online world into the physical world.
you’ll find blogs on venues that include Vue de Monde, Fandango,
As the magazine is distributed to over 1000 outlets in prominent
Vegie Bar and St Katherine’s Danielle Gullaci, Editor
GRAM is Food Culture. Compiled.
HOW TAGS WORK GRAM’s chosen code system is the Microsoft® Tag platform. The Tag App is free of cost, simple to use and enables quick access to links. To get it, it takes a simple app download on a phone* with a camera and web access.
1.
Download Microsoft® Tag Reader A) From your mobiles App Store
2.
or B) From http://gettag.mobi
SCAN TAG Open the app, scan the Tag codes featured in GRAM within the camera’s viewfinder. The link will then be opened in the phone’s web browser.
*For a list of compatible phones visit http://tag.microsoft.com/resources/mobile-support.aspx
FOLLOW US!
Facebook: GRAM Magazine
Twitter: @grammagazine
From time to time we’ll add additional links, stories and giveaways on our Facebook and Twitter sites. Follow us and keep in touch with the odds and ends about eating and drinking in Melbourne. Gram magazine is owned by Prime Creative Media and published by John Murphy. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content. Editor: Danielle Gullaci Email: danielle.gullaci@primecreative.com.au National sales Manager: Craig Frost Phone: 0433 185 177 Email: craig.frost@primecreative.com.au
Advertising sales: Olivia Petrolo Phone: 0431 145 883 Email: olivia.petrolo@primecreative.com.au
Art Director: Joel Parke
Domenica Mirabella Phone: 0406 342 379 Email: domenica.mirabella@primecreative.com.au
Head office Prime Creative Media Pty Ltd 11-15 Buckhurst Street South Melbourne VIC 3205 Phone: 03 9690 8766 Fax: 03 9682 0044
Tyson Hunter Phone: 0425 145 806 Email: tyson.hunter@primecreative.com.au
Design: Michelle Weston, Blake Storey, Alice Ewen, Karen Sloane, Sarah Doyle
Average Net Distribution October ‘10 - March ‘11 20,118 copies per month
WANT TO BE FEATURED IN GRAM? SEND A LINK OF YOUR FOOD OR DRINK BLOG TO danielle.gullaci@primecreative.com.au
SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON vue de monde (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
4
Vue de Monde Rialto, Level 55, 525 Collins Street. Ph: 9691 3888 Words and photos by Agnes Hon
ABOUT AGNES HON I LIKE TO EAT. SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE
I LIKE TO COOK. I LIKE TO BAKE. I LIKE TO BLOG.
(DETAILS ON PG. 3)
I LIKE THE WORD SPORK.
WWW.OFFTHESPORK.COM
I love a lunch deal. So when I heard that Vue de Monde was doing a $60
ham and cheese doughnuts. Bread came out in a black (natch) bag, with
one hour express lunch that ended in November, I hurriedly booked in a
a heated stone in the bottom to keep them warm and was refilled during
lunch date with I-Hua and Maz.
our meal. And butter… the unseasoned French butter was scooped out in quenelles from a big wooden bucket. We (well, mainly Maz) oohed and
Maz and I cleverly scheduled a day off work, while I-Hua snuck out for a
ahhed over the butter. If you could marry butter, Maz would’ve married it.
long lunch. We weren’t aware of exactly how long a lunch it was going to
Failing that, she might’ve considered marrying the butter guy, because as
be. One hour stretched into two hours… which extended to three hours.
the waiter remarked, “Everyone loves the butter guy.”
(Sorry, I-Hua’s company!) Chips, doughnuts, bread and butter – it was like we’d had a mini meal We were a bit early for our table, so we were directed up to the Lui Bar via
before our actual meal even started.
the snazzy nightclub style elevator. At the Lui Bar, we spread out on their couches, admired the view, and decided that: nope, 1pm was definitely not
For entrées, Maz opted for the beautifully presented ox tongue salad.
too early for a Negroni cocktail – not too early at all. And what a Negroni
The tongue had been lightly pickled, and was served with several types
– with a massive, singular ice cube sphere. So swish.
of thinly sliced radishes, with a combination of dehydrated and steamed vegetables. Shannon Bennett told us that the inspiration for this dish was
After 30 minutes, our table was ready, and we were shown into the
from a very old recipe, which mostly they had kept the same – apart from
restaurant. Man cave alert (which isn’t a negative – it is what it is). The
the addition of dehydrated vegetables (do you like how I just casually
restaurant is black, black, black – black walls, black floors, black chairs,
name dropped there?).
and tables covered in black kangaroo leather. And where it wasn’t black, it was shiny metal, glass orbs, and the occasional chair back covered in soft fur. Somehow, it all works together to create a very unique fit out. And the view. Yes, the view up there on the 55th floor is indeed lovely. If you weren’t enjoying your dining companions, you could always just watch Melbourne down below.
Upon being shown the menu, we were given a quick bite to eat – super thin, almost translucent, chips that came with a dipping sauce. If all chips were as good as these, I would never eat anything else.
All tables had a selection of rocks and twigs laid out in the middle. We discovered during the meal that they all had a purpose – from bread
I-Hua and I both had the grilled shrimp for our entrée. Shannon Bennett
plates, to salt, pepper and butter holders and cutlery and knife stands.
brought the dish over and personally blow torched our shrimp at the table, just giving them a light char and torching some of the herbs. I wish I could
Upon being shown the menu, we were given a quick bite to eat – super
say that we received special treatment because of our awesomeness, but
thin, almost translucent, chips that came with a dipping sauce. If all chips
it looked like he did the rounds at each table. I must say that it was really
were as good as these, I would never eat anything else.
nice to see him there.
As mentioned previously, we were there for a 2 course express lunch. The
Shannon aside, the dish was absolutely delicious. Served with a savoury
menu offered two choices for entrée, main and dessert, and we asked
fresh oyster sauce on the side, and avocado underneath, it was creamy
whether we could add a third course. This was possible, at $15, so we went
and delightful. Definitely the winner out of the two entrées.
ahead for 3 courses and made our selections. After entrées, our table was set for mains and a palate cleanser. We Before bread, we then received another delicious complimentary bite –
wondered what the big wooden item was for.
5
6
The palate cleanser came out initially as a bowl of herbs and lime
It looked amazing, and as expected it was light and fluffy. However,
flowers. Then a waiter came around and poured liquid nitrogen over
it was also incredibly, incredibly sweet. Delicious, but too high on the
them to freeze them.
sweet scale for me.
The purpose of the wooden thing was then revealed – we used it as a
Maz had the cheese, which came with several accompaniments – three
pestle to mash up the frozen herbs.
types of jam (fig, strawberry and onion) plus rhubarb, apple, pear and a couple of breads. Unfortunately, while the accompaniments came out
A scoop of cucumber sorbet was then placed on top. Ta dah! Palate
quickly, it took a long time (at least 15 minutes) for the cheese trolley to
cleanser! And what a palate cleanser: fresh, cold, slightly sweet, with
be wheeled over.
bursts of basil and mint, it was very refreshing. When it did make its way to our table, Maz selected four cheeses from For mains, I-Hua had the fish. She didn’t share it with us, so she must’ve
the rather large selection. They were very generous with the portioning
enjoyed it! Maz and I both chose the waygu beef. Scattered around the
– it could’ve easily been shared amongst two or three people.
main piece of beef were tender braised pieces, a mustard sauce, and onions done two ways: fried and pickled.
We ended our meal with coffees for Maz and I, and tea for I-Hua. Vue de Monde has a tea sommelier, so she came over for a chat to help I-Hua
The mains also came with sides. One side was fried potatoes, which
select a tea.
came out cutely wrapped in newspaper and twine. And the other was a smoked cheese and watercress salad with discs of red cabbage.
And finally, we received a selection of petit fours. At the back were minted marshmallows with a tiny sprig of thyme and Vue de Monde’s
We then moved on to a second palate cleanser – a small glass of
own golden gay times. And at the front we had raspberry lamingtons
passionfruit liquorice beer and frozen coconut balls. The passionfruit
and gin jubes. I loved the little gaytimes. So cute.
beer was quite sweet and fizzy, but it had a strange mouthfeel. We loved the frozen coconut balls though.
The raspberry lamingtons were amazing – squares of chocolate mousse covered in coconut with a small amount of fresh raspberry sauce. A
The palate cleanser came out initially as a bowl of herbs and lime flowers. Then a waiter came around and poured liquid nitrogen over them to freeze them.
great end to a fab meal. It was so worth the day off – we had a very enjoyable lunch and had a fantastic time. Though I must say, service was a touch…stiff? Not terribly impressed with us? It was hard to gauge whether it was us or whether they were always like that! They were efficient (apart from when it came to the cheese) but just not that friendly. Personally, I think if you’ve got a
There were two choices on the dessert menu – the first was a chocolate
table of people who are laughing their heads off and obviously enjoying
soufflé, and the second was cheese. I-Hua and I both decided on the
themselves, you can afford to crack a smile or two. Or even a joke. Ho
chocolate soufflé. When it was brought out, the waiter poked holes
hum, never mind. We had a great time despite that and I’m still keen to
around the side and poured in vanilla creme anglaise.
head back for the full spectacle one day.
7
SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON ol’ school fish ‘n’ chips (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
8
burger review: Ol’ School Fish ‘N’ Chips 566 Brunswick St, Fitzroy North. Ph: 9489 9083 Words and photo by The Burger Adventure
About the Burger Adventure The Burger Adventure is a blog that reviews the best burgers from Australia SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE
and around the world. Created by four guys with a passion for beef, buns, cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, egg, bacon & sauce. Authors: Brendan Kennedy, David Silcock, George Vafeas & Zenon Predecki.
(DETAILS ON PG. 3)
www.theburgeradventure.com
SUMMARY When you arrive, what greets you is an imposing black exterior that leads inside to a large feature wall covered in graffiti, and judging by the chill dudes behind the counter, it was probably graffed by them. It’s
It’s the kind of place where you’ll find most locals ordering by just walking in, nodding and saying, “The usual thanks”.
the kind of place where you’ll find most locals ordering by just walking in, nodding and saying, “The usual thanks”. They may be “New School”
was nicely melted and creamy. The bun was just a traditional burger
by appearance but it’s in their methods of cooking that the “Ol’ School”
bun that was slightly burnt, but still didn’t take away from the burger.
part of their name really becomes apparent. Of highest praise amidst
All in all, a good fish ‘n’ chip experience by a crew that were hospitable
the neighbourhood are their chips, which are hand-cut and deep fried
and had a killer dress sense that you would find in a Beastie Boys video
for just the right amount of time, making them nice and crunchy. Chips
clip circa 1992 – keep it up lads! Chips were good – nice, crispy and
aside they offer a pretty familiar fish ‘n’ chip shop menu, ranging from
well seasoned.”
battered fish to Chiko rolls. We, of course, went for the hamburger of 100% Angus Beef, lettuce, tomato, onion, a sesame-seed bun, and then
Z- “In a world full of goody two-shoes, 99% fat-free, wannabe gourmet
added cheese, egg and bacon for good measure.
burgers, these guys are like Lex Luthor. From the get-go you know what you’re about to consume will be a classic burger that most of
COMMENTS
us would’ve grown up ordering with a dimmy and potato cake. The
D- “This is one of the biggest and thickest beef patties I’ve had on a fish
only difference with these guys is that they’ve gone for a higher quality
‘n’ chip style burger. The beef was ground really tight which made for
Angus beef pattie – which would probably explain the New School fish
a dense and rough texture. Nothing really stood out about this burger
‘n’ chip price. But it is what it is. The beef was simple and flavoursome
either good or bad. It was exactly what you would expect from a fish ‘n’
but could’ve been cooked a little rarer. It had a sweetish note to it
chip shop and served its purpose well: you’re hungry and it fills you up.
too, like it had been cooked with soy sauce or ketchup. Although my
With Danny’s around the corner I’m guessing most people come here
cheese wasn’t melted, which is usually a turn off for me, the flavour
for the fish and not the burger, however, the chips were great.”
that it produced when mixed with the egg was so superbly creamy. I would’ve loved to have seen the egg a little runnier, but on the plus side
G- “Just a straight-up, uncomplicated, unpretentious, basic fish ‘n’ chip
it resulted in a pretty ‘mess free, no sliding bun’ kind of meal. Overall
shop burger. The pattie was simple and well seasoned, and the cheese
quite enjoyable, especially coupled with their killer chips.”
BURGER:
SERVIETTES:
DRESS CODE:
SLEEPINESS:
WOULD WE RECOMMEND:
PRICE:
Hamburger plus cheese,
2
Casual
15 minutes
If you’re in the area
$10.50
egg, bacon
9
SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON fandango (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
10
Fandango 97 Errol Street, North Melbourne. Ph: 9329 0693 Words and photos by Brunch Addict
About Mr LB and Miss SL Two people in Melbourne who love food set about a journey to find the best brunch in town. Scouting out new brunch places weekly for you to try is our quest. Don’t worry – coffee quality is just as important to us as the food.
SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
www.brunchaddict.com
Opening Hours:
occasion, the head was very faint and had already broken away upon
Tues-Sat: 7:30am-3pm
serving. Initially there was a real musky taste to this coffee, however this
Sun-Mon: Closed
may have been attributed to the coffee being unusually hot. Once the coffee had settled and cooled, there was a crisp taste on the back palate
Coffee: Coffee Supreme
whilst very soft flavours came forth to the front.
Mr LB: “We all have that denoted ‘to do list’. Written on this list is a
Looking at the brunch menu at Fandango, you may draw the conclusion
number of jobs which usually starts with number 1: ‘Create a to do list’.
that the food is as simple as their menu titles. With a title like Avocado
The funny thing about a ‘to do list’ is that they rarely go away and ever so
and Tomato – with basil pesto and cracked pepper on toasted sourdough
easily accumulate. It could be that unfinished Bunnings idea that you saw
[$13.50] – add bacon and poached egg [19.50], there wasn’t much
on the ‘Renovators’ or a number of brunch reviews to complete. Here at
excitement. Well my prejudice sure served me wrong!
Brunch Addict HQ, there is an extensive and constantly evolving list of cafés to blog and Fandango has been on our radar for quite some time. With that being said, it has taken us a whopping two years in the making to have the opportunity. This is not because it’s an arm’s length away from Auction Rooms or Di Bella and we get side tracked. Rather, every time we made the effort to go to Fandango it always seemed to be closed. Fandango is a café which believes that Sunday and Monday are
The quality of the meal was second to none with all produce being fresh and prepared perfectly. The pesto was crunchy with pine nuts, which was perfect when spread on the fresh sourdough.
the days of rest – and they practice what they preach. However, don’t be deterred by this. As we quickly discovered, while this little café lies
I usually make notes as I eat my dish to jog my memory when I write-
amongst heavy competition, it sure packs a punch.
up, however there was no notes written on this occasion. There was no need – my meal was flat-out amazing. The quality of the meal was
Fandango has been on our radar for quite some time... As we quickly discovered, while this little cafe lies amongst heavy competition, it sure packs a punch.
second to none with all produce being fresh and prepared perfectly. The pesto was crunchy with pine nuts, which was perfect when spread on the fresh sourdough. The bacon comprised of the right texture outside and soft juice middle and the eggs were poached perfectly. It was firm on the outside, but once pieced it oozed a lovely yellow colour. Whilst simplistic ingredients have been used, the quality of the ingredients and the preparation made this dish amazing.
Their coffee is supplied from Coffee Supreme, which we have tasted and
Brunch dessert is always a consideration, however there are some
reviewed in previous blogs. Whilst, in the past I have expressly outlined
instances when it’s just impossible. Once we were seated I had noticed
that it isn’t my favorite, it appears to be growing on me. This isn’t to say
the sweet looking pear muffin [$3.60] next to the barista station and
that it is a remarkable blend, but there seems to be improvement. On this
from that moment I knew it was mine.
11
12
With that said, I was quite satisfied after my amazing meal and left with
During my wait I was spying on some people’s dishes which made my
a brown paper bag. When my appetite had returned, I can confirm this
choice very easy once seated – Beetroot Eggs – poached eggs with
muffin was of a high standard. It was well crafted and shaped without
beetroot and feta relish served with spinach on toasted sourdough
crumbling. The fresh pear pieces brought out the perfect level of
[$15.50], add mushrooms [$18.50]. Kitchen service was efficient in
sweetness to mix with the naturally light muffin. The muffin represents
comparison to a lot of other high-quality cafés, with food served in
Fandango – while not being flamboyant with its size or decor, the taste sure
approximately 15 minutes and boy, was it magnificent looking!
delivered what every café should aim for – a no compromise to quality.” The beetroot and feta relish was such a simple concept and yet so Miss SL: “Ever since our first visit to Auction Rooms, Mr LB and I have
refreshing and tasty. I couldn’t believe it wasn’t something I’d had
been talking about going to Fandango, two doors down. That was two
before. The feta was creamy and the beetroot zingy and juicy, creating
years ago. Every time we seemed to be in the area or passed the place
a beautiful cohesion of flavours. The purple-red juices stained the relish
it was closed. We were beginning to think that it would be a bit of a
and added a burst of colour to the dish. My eggs were perfectly cooked
challenge to find a day that it was opened!
and dripped with yolk once pierced.
The feta was creamy and the beetroot zingy and juicy, creating a beautiful cohesion of flavours. The purple-red juices stained the relish and added a burst of colour to the dish.
My sourdough was thick and crunchy and didn’t become soggy with the egg and the relish. The spinach and mushrooms made this vegetarian breakfast complete. The mushrooms were sautéed in butter, but perfectly done so that the butter was not overpowering. Fandango was the best brunch I’d had in a long time. It felt like forever since I’d been out to brunch somewhere where I’d walked away thinking ‘that place was amazing’.
Knowing that it was closed on Sundays, we made a special Saturday attempt to have brunch there. Auction Rooms was packed and the line
If they had a larger outlay (and maybe switched to a better coffee bean)
looked to be a good 30 minute wait. In comparison, the wait at Fandango
they could definitely give Auction Rooms a run for their money. Watch
was only 15-20 minutes. The interior was kitch and cosy, looking like a
out Melbourne, there’s a quite achiever sitting amongst the big guns.”
converted 1980s/90s hair salon. The limited seating space was a real down-fall to this place, although there was a courtyard out the back
Final Thought: “Quiet achiever that could take on the big guns. A
which looked just perfect for a sunny day.
must try.”
ss The art of Porchetta Cla m
11 March: 10:30am - 1:30p 5 March: 5:30pm - 8:30pm, n Street, North Melbourne Casa & Bottega 64 Sutto LITTLE ITALY IN NORTH MELBOURNE st roa to make the perfect 7DAYS BREAKFAST & LUNCH The art of porchetta (or how y, cuts, preparation and tor his ing lud inc , le) Sty n lia pork, Ita ditional roast pork lunch cooking, culminating in a tra 64 SUTTON STREET or dinner. NORTH MELBOURNE 9322 4750 r casabottega.com.au ch, $55.00 class and dinneCasa & bottega logo 3 colour lun d an ss cla 0 5.0 $4 st: Co au m. .co ga tte SCAN TAG TO facebook.com/casabottega Website: casabo FIND OUT MORE Bookings: 03 9322 4750
13
14
Recipe: Roast pumpkin, caramelised onions and feta pizza Recipe and photos by The Pink Leopard
About the pink leopard The Pink Leopard is an heroic, moral cat with pink fur and the manners of an English aristocrat. She only becomes flustered or angry at obtuse or offensive humans who try to disrupt her existence, or at troublesome gadgets, rodents, or insects. In most of her life, she stumbles into a difficult situation and stoically endeavours to make the best of it. All the while cooking.
SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
www.thepinkleopard.net
The Hairy One and I are on the health wagon again. (He just said that I’m
warmish place. Leave for about an hour until the ball has doubled in size.
on it again – apparently he never got off. Fair enough…)
Place your dough on a floured chopping board and knock the air out of it. Divide into however many pizzas you want, then roll. I hand pressed
We have been watching a load of documentaries about health, nutrition,
my dough, but for a thin crust, a rolling pin is best.
dietary requirements, raw food movement and OJ Simpson. Ok, that last one is unrelated (although OJ/Orange Juice/nutrition? Never mind…) but
Pizza topping:
we have been watching a lot of documentaries and it gets a girl thinkin’.
1 onion, sliced thin ½ teaspoon brown sugar (or white)
It would be great if we could somehow permanently loop these shows in
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
every room of the house, because it’s easy to lose sight of what is good
Half a pumpkin, cut into little cubes (or mandolined)
for you in this crazy world we live in.
100g feta cheese Cheddar cheese, grated
We have decided to reduce our meat and dairy consumption – as a bit
Dried oregano to sprinkle
of an experiment. I’ve done this before and the results are astounding.
Handful of rocket leaves
I’m less tired, less grumpy, loads more energy. My weight slowly starts to
Olive oil – best quality please.
decrease, but I think that’s also because I don’t feel so bloated. Roast your pumpkin in a hot oven (220°C) for about 20 minutes or until Ironically there is a bit of a movement in the States called meatless
just turning black – yum.
Monday; have one night a week where you are meat free. We are swapping that around to maybe have meat once a week if at all.
Place sliced onions in a saucepan with a little olive oil and cook for about 10 minutes or until soft. Add the brown sugar and balsamic vinegar and
There are some foods that are so filling and dense that you wouldn’t
cook for a further 10 minutes or until its all sticky and brown and luscious.
even know you are ‘missing out’. This pizza is one of them. I pilfered the idea from a slice of pizza I had a food hall last week, but as always
Once you have made your pizza bases (don’t forget that good old
homemade is sensational! Please try it and let me know what you think.
Lebanese bread/lavash works just as well), spread your roasted pumpkin over your base, distribute your onions evenly and crumble over
Pizza base:
feta cheese. Sprinkle oregano over the top and add a bit of cheddar,
1 kilo ‘00’ flour
if you desire.
1 tbsp sea salt 3 x 7g sachets of yeast
Bake for 15 minutes on 200°C until crunchy and golden. Drizzle some
1 tbsp sugar
olive oil over the top and serve. YAY!
650ml tepid water I also put my rocket, dressed with some olive oil in a separate bowl Dissolve yeast in the tepid water – this takes a few minutes. Sieve flour
and let my guests (i.e. myself – Hairy doesn’t like caramelised onions –
and salt into a mixing bowl. Make a well in the middle, tip in the sugar
sheesh) serve themselves.
and then pour in the yeasty water. Gently work the dough together until you have a big lush ball of dough. Cover with a tea towel and let sit it in a
Easy, delicious and about 1/8 of the calories of that hideous burger.
15
SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON The farm café (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
16
The Farm Café 18 St Heliers St, Abbotsford. Ph: 9415 6581 Words and photos by Little Eats
About Little Eats The Little Eats website serves up a healthy dose of Melbourne’s famed café culture... but for little ones. Little Eats provides Melbourne Yummy Mummies and Daddy Cools with reviews on the latest and greatest kid-friendly cafés around – for brekkie, brunch, lunch, babycinos and even din-dins. They have sought out Melbourne’s best cafés that offer an environment where
SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
little ones are not just merely tolerated but welcomed and catered for. www.littleeats.com.au
Opening Hours:
is pretty much all out doors so the kids can run around and you don’t have
Mon-Fri: 9am - 4pm
to worry about them making a mess. The staff were all pretty friendly too.
Sat-Sun: 8am - 5pm Highchair: Yes Change table: Yes Pram access: Yes Separate kid’s menu: Yes Normal menu suitable for kids: Yes Friendly staff: Yes Play area for kids: Yes, the whole farm!
The Farm Café is just perfect for kids, babies and families as they have everything. There are highchairs, a change table, ample room for prams, and even a dedicated kid’s menu with tasty treats.
Activities provided for kids (eg: crayons): No Vibe/atmosphere: casual, earthy, organic, very relaxed
There are plenty of tables and seats scattered around, and we managed
Prices: standard/reasonable
to find a table (well half of one, as there was another couple with their
Other: Parking next door, $4 all day
little one at the other end) in the shade of a big old tree over near the chicken pens. It’s best to grab a table first, then send one person to line
Sit back, relax, and pretend you are in the country on your own farm, get
up, order and pay. My husband lined up for about 15 minutes, which I
some fresh air, eat some tasty healthy food, and let the kids run wild… all
think felt like longer as he was in the hot midday sun, then we probably
still within a few kilometres of the city.
waited for about another 15 to 20 minutes for our food to come to our table. We didn’t mind that wait part so much as The Farm Café had such
The sun was shining on a lovely Sunday… so the three of us decided to go
a nice relaxed vibe, and we were happy just chatting, chilling and people
for a spot of lunch at The Farm Café located at The Collingwood Children’s
watching… and sipping on the chocolate milkshakes they had already
Farm. As soon as we parked in the car park next door (which only costs $4
brought over.
for the whole day), we felt as if we had gone on a day trip for an outing in the country, as opposed to driving for only 10 minutes from one inner city
I had the Goat’s Toast, which was divine and perfectly suited to my
suburb to another.
tastebuds especially as I am a veggo. It was a very generous serving of sourdough toast, beetroot relish, baby spinach, avocado and marinated
We strolled down the boardwalk path to the Farm Café, which is located
goat’s cheese. Finished off with a squeeze of lemon and some freshly
at the entrance to the actual Farm, and were greeted with families
cracked pepper, it was simply heaven. You can also add an optional
everywhere – prams, pushers, strollers, babies, toddlers, kids, bikes, a
poached egg too. My husband (who is definitely NOT a veggo) had the
couple of dogs (on leads) and breastfeeding mammas… all eating and
Super BLT, a step up from the standard BLT as it also included avocado,
enjoying their lovely Sunday afternoon with their families.
caramelised onion, cheese and mayo.
The Farm Café is just perfect for kids, babies and families as they have
We will definitely be back again soon as there were just too many yummy
everything. There are highchairs, a change table, ample room for prams,
things on the menu. My sweet tooth nearly did win out again as the
and even a dedicated kid’s menu with tasty treats – eggs on toast, sausage
Blintzes caught my eye – crepe parcels filled with lemony ricotta, served
rolls, half sandwiches, toastie soldiers, and even a kid’s drink menu –
with baked apple, rhubarb and cream, however as it was lunchtime I went
babycinos, hot chocs, and smaller sized milkshakes and iced chocolates. It
for the savoury option instead… but there is always next time.
17
SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON vegie bar (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
18
Vegie Bar 380 Brunswick St, Fitzroy. Ph: 9417 6935 Words and photos by Allan Huynh
ABOUT ALMOST ALWAYS RAVENOUS A twenty something year old Melbourne-born food lover, with the perpetual struggle of juggling his life between a demanding day job, an insatiable appetite to eat and satisfy a fastidious palate, and still find time to write a culinary journal and lead a somewhat normal life. More often than not, the ravenous stomach prevails!
SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
www.almostalwaysravenous.wordpress.com
I am generally not the biggest enthusiast for civilised vegetarian dining
but also tofu and herbed fetta. An acidic tomato/pineapple based relish
alternatives when more primeval carnivorous options are available. It
comes with it.
is therefore not surprising I rarely visit solely vegetarian spots on my own accord.
Vegie special smoothie: This is a sweet and wholesomely satisfying concoction of banana, honey and bee pollen.
In most cases, it would be a futile mission to try to persuade me otherwise. I actually baulked when someone from work suggested vegetarian for an
Yogizen pizza: For a thin based pizza this was incredibly filling. Although
after work dinner, but grudgingly conceded.
maybe I ate too much before this arrived? A little Asian twist with Indonesian tempeh, that brings with it tamari, ginger and chilli. Loads of
Walking inside this 20 year old eating house and bar, you find yourself
roasted pumpkin, field mushrooms and baby spinach to keep your health
surrounded by an eclectic mish-mash of the new comfy dining furniture
in check. Too bad you have a lot of mozzarella to ruin all that hard work.
almost clashing with the old tattered walls plastered in posters and
cream and guacamole.
inside this 20 year old eating house and bar, you find yourself surrounded by an eclectic mish-mash of the new comfy dining furniture almost clashing with the old tattered walls.
Duo: Roti bread & steamed brown rice with a duo of chickpea dalh and
Being very full to the brim with food already, there was a moment’s
potato/lentil curry served with a side of minted yoghurt.
faltering. But ultimately given the complete lack of meat at this occasion,
advertising. The space is, needless to say, warm, loud and energetic. Mexican burrito: Tortilla bread with refried kidney beans, spinach, onion and mushrooms, served with rice, topped with melted cheese, chilli, sour
there was no way (we) I was going to pass up some sweet additions… Sprouted chickpea and cashew hummus: With a little olive oil, lemon juice and pine nut sour cream, toasted sesame seeds. Give me a box of
Rhubarb crumble: Soft cuts of rhubarb with not so much as a scant
those gluten free crackers any day, and I’ll be happy!
scatter of crumble mixed in. More crumble please.
Gyoza dumpling: These little steamed dumplings filled with a blend of
Sticky date pudding: The sticky, moist tower of sticky date with a flowing
carrot, peas, coriander, cabbage, onion and ginger, whilst okay, seriously
pool of caramel was a satisfyingly deadly final blow to the stomach.
lacked the meaty juices of the carnivorous varieties. Rating: Yummy. The place is packed full, and bookings are difficult. But Stuffed mushrooms: These really looked more like falafels than
all is forgiven (or at least forgotten) when the food is up to scratch. Vegie
mushrooms, but on biting you find not only piping hot button mushroom,
Bar serves honest, relatively healthy, and very affordable food.
19
SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON ST. KATHERINE’S (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
20
St Katherine’s 26 Cotham Road, Kew. Ph: 9207 7477 Words and photos by Second Helping
About Second Helping I believe the only way to be truly happy in life is to identify what you are really passionate about and do something about it. For me it was easy. I am passionate about food and all that goes with it. My blog is an outlet through which I share my passion. The name, Second Helping, embodies both my hunger for food itself, and for more knowledge and experience. If
SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
you haven’t yet worked out what your passion is, it’s that thing you want more of. www.secondhelping.com.au
Six months ago, there wasn’t a lot of reason to venture to Kew for any
tins, it is the latest and largest venture in the Made Establishment’s
sort of culinary experience.
(formerly called The Press Club Group) stable of six.
Now, you can go to Ora for breakfast and get a thoughtful offering of
On both occasions I embraced the plates in the middle of the table and
sustainable and seasonal options accompanied by well made, great
had the six course shared menu. It is a good way to eat your way across
coffee; head to Mister Bianco for southern Italian inspired cuisine in a
the breadth of the menu, is not too damaging to the wallet and you
comfortable but stylish setting; or go to St Kat’s.
will certainly not leave hungry. The menu changes regularly, showing some consideration to seasonality and availability of produce, with a few
Situated right in the heart of Kew junction, it seems to have captured not
anchor dishes for which St Kat’s has become well known.
just the local market, but lured those prepared to travel to suburbia for the cachet of chefs, Shane Delia and George Calombaris. St Katherine’s
Expect the shared menu to start with some dips, a vegetable dish and
delivers a mix of modern Mediterranean interpretations, from Modern
a couple of items from ‘Stuff’. On my most recent visit we had red lentil
Greek to Middle Eastern and Turkish.
kofte. Great flavour, but I actually prefer the crunchier texture of the ones I make at home based on the recipe in Greg Malouf’s Turquoise.
Most of the menu is built around the semi-open kitchen with an enormous wood-fired oven, 14-spike rotisserie and a custom made Turkish grill that’s almost the length of the kitchen pass. The remainder is ‘Stuff’ (appetisers), ‘Side Stuff’ and ‘Sweet Stuff’. I have dined twice at St Katherine’s, once as a party of two and later in a group of nine. On both occasions, the balanced attentive service from the staff on the floor stopped the large space (it seats 140) from feeling
On both occasions I embraced the plates in the middle of the table and had the six course shared menu. It is a good way to eat your way across the breadth of the menu, is not too damaging to the wallet and you will certainly not leave hungry.
more like a cafeteria than a restaurant. Full of blonde wood furniture, brightly coloured ceramic plates and cutlery presented in old tomato
On each visit there has been a vegetable dish amongst the starters. The dish of slightly pickled carrot with plump beans was lifted by the
Most of the menu is built around the semi-open kitchen with an enormous wood-fired oven, 14-spike rotisserie and a custom made Turkish grill that’s almost the length of the kitchen pass.
addition of dried mint and a hint of cumin. Not the prettiest to look at, but the simplicity and honesty of its flavours made it stand out. One of the aforementioned anchor dishes, is indubitably the Turkish lamb dumplings – tender spicy lamb parcels with the tangy lemony hit of sumac and creamy garlicky yoghurt. I wasn’t taken by these on my first visit, I almost left these to the others at the table. This time, I am glad I
21
The wood fired oven gets a workout with the savoury pides. Peppered figs, ricotta, mint and haloumi was one of the star combinations. Other welcome tastes were sujuk and bastirma.
of slow roasted succulent meat. If you embark upon a shared menu at
didn’t because second time around they definitely hit the mark.
syrup, with mint jelly cubes and cinnamon accented labne was one I
St Kat’s, leave room for this. It will probably never win any accolades for creativity or ingenuity, but damn it tastes good. It was served with a simple salad that I couldn’t get enough of and a wonderfully nutty and fluffy pilaf. Desserts are rarely my thing, but the watermelon ‘salad’ doused in arak would go back for. Sadly, it’s no longer on the menu, but hopefully it will
The wood fired oven gets a workout with the savoury pides. Peppered
make a return.
figs, ricotta, mint and haloumi was one of the star combinations. Other welcome tastes were sujuk and bastirma.
Hot cherry jam filled doughnuts on chocolate ‘gravel’ atop a chocolate mousse that sits happily above a whiskey jelly. If you have a sweet tooth,
A beautifully cooked piece of fish presented me with a dilemma. It tasted
this is for you. It was too much for me to devour after the feast that
magnificent and the slight charring of the meaty flesh was balanced by
had gone before, but there were plenty of takers at our table to help
the zing of fresh lemon and good olive oil. So where is the problem? It
me finish.
is swordfish, a fish on Greenpeace’s redlist, and on most sustainability experts in the Asia Pacific’s ‘Say No’ list. In checking the St Katherine’s
Go to St Katherine’s with a group, it’s more fun and you won’t feel as lost
website today whilst writing this, I noted that it has been replaced with
in the large space. You will also get to taste more of the family friendly,
‘Grilled Market Fish’ – and a choice between John Dory, Flathead, Black
designed to be shared menu.
Bream and Baby Snapper. Bream is your best option here, I would think twice about the others. Surely this meat is what rotisseries were made for? If you eat meat (and clearly I do), it can be hard to go past the mouth watering tenderness
22
If you eat meat (and clearly i do), it can be hard to go past the mouth tenderness of slow watering roasted succulent meat.
SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON albert st food & wine (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
24
Albert St Food & Wine 382 Sydney Road, Brunswick. Ph: 8354 6600 Words and photos by I-Hua Lim
A Food, Travel and Entertainment Blog Based in Melbourne A HR professional who enjoys living in Melbourne and spends a lot of her time trying not to let life get the better of her. This blog is mostly about food… with a bit of travelling, concerts, books, movies and occasional writing thrown in.
SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
www.msihua.com
Hark, the Dessert Queen has returned!
message option either.
Although, she probably doesn’t like that title at all. However, her last stint
We decided we would take a walk around Sydney Road to buy some time.
at Il Fornaio was when Masterchef featured her and made her ‘Snickers’
After 30 minutes, we walked back to their doorsteps and saw 2 people
dessert a household name. But she was already famous in her own right.
standing at the bar!
Back from some time off to develop recipes for her recently published
Much hand signalling ensued and we were told that they would open
cookbook, PS Desserts, Philippa Sibley has returned following high
at 12pm.
anticipation. Rather disheartened, we waved goodbye to the staff and made our Where would she go next? What would her next dessert creation be? Will
journey back to the South East (not before stopping by for a quick brunch
she go back to savoury cooking?
at nearby Pope Joan instead).
During the recent Taste of Melbourne event, the Boy and I were one of the
Now, we could have gone two ways here.
lucky few event goers who managed to catch Ms Sibley in action doing a
A) Leave and never return and forever grow to hate them.
cooking demo. She announced (at the demo) that her next venture would
B) Give them another chance and understand that they were still trying to
be a restaurant named Albert St Food & Wine and that the opening date
find their feet and return later that night for dinner.
would be some time in December. Obviously, we chose the latter option and returned. Before we left In the month leading up, the Boy was constantly refreshing (on a daily
however, I rang the restaurant up to triple check that they were indeed
basis) the Albert St F&W Facebook page and finally on the second week
open for dinner.
of December, excitedly exclaimed that it was OPEN! He declared, “We have to go there now!”
When we returned, we were greeted with open arms and brought to a table overlooking the old bank vault (now a wine cellar), bar and kitchen area.
And so we did. We woke up really early (earlier than usual) last Saturday as the website mentioned that they would open from 9am to 1am. We got there close to 10am for breakfast. Lo and behold, it wasn’t opened. We figured they were running late as it was their very first weekend since opening on that Thursday after all.
Apart from the amazing desserts we had that night, this soup was the most decadent and delicious liquid gold we have had this whole year.
The cleaning lady was there, other customers like us were peering through
I also opted for a glass of the 2010 Xabregas Riesling Mount Barker,
their doors to see if there was any sign of life. Alas, apart from a few lone
Western Australia ($7.50), to start off the night.
figures in the kitchen, there wasn’t much activity to be seen. We tried ringing the restaurant, but no one was answering and there wasn’t a voice
We were given warm crusty sourdough bread with basil infused oil
25
26
whipped in butter. The Boy found this truly enjoyable.
and enhanced by the creamy sweetness of the panna cotta.
Unsure of what to order from the mostly Mediterranean optioned menu, the
The poor Boy who is not a great fan of truffles at all, struggled with this
Boy and I consulted the wait staff who gave us a helping hand. We asked if
dessert and I ended up taking over this dish from him.
the Heirloom Carrot Soup, Vin Santo, Scallops ($16.00) was worth a try, and he said that it was. And boy were we glad that we did. Apart from the amazing desserts we had that night, this soup was the most decadent and delicious liquid gold we
Just as our luck had it that night, the Dessert Special of the Day was the famed Snickers and we obviously had to order it.
have had this whole year. Just as our luck had it that night, the Dessert Special of the Day (dessert Rich, creamy and not stingy with the scallops, if you do find yourself at
specials from Phillipa Sibley’s new cookbook change daily) was the famed
Albert St F&W, do not go past this soup.
Snickers and we obviously had to order it. When it arrived, I nearly died from ecstasy. It was better than I recalled and it tasted richer than I remembered.
We wanted to try the Salt Cod Fritters, but were told that it had sold out during their lunch service.
This truly is an amazing dessert and nothing else can compare, although Neil Perry’s Chocolate and Peanut Caramel Parfait would probably be the next
Instead, our waiter recommended we try the Sardines on Grilled Bread with
best thing.
Capers, Currants and Pinenuts ($15.00 – entrée size) instead, which I found to be very good. The richness of the sardines was beautifully paired with the
How did I feel about my whole visit? I would most definitely return for
salty-sourness of the capers and the sweetness of the currants.
entrées and desserts.
To be honest, after such rich dishes as our entrées, we were quite full but also
I do understand that dining on the very first weekend (in this case, third
looking forward to the mains that were making their way to us. If starters
day) since opening might mean that not everything will go smoothly in
were that good, we couldn’t wait for the mains! I still ache and crave for
the kitchen and that flavours may not mesh as well or appeal as much to
the mouth-watering lamb ragout from Il Fornaio when Philippa was still the
some customers.
head chef there. Service was excellent and everyone was looked after well. Water glasses I ordered the rather lovely sounding Roasted Rump of Lamb, Soft Polenta,
were topped up consistently despite the restaurant and bar picking up the
Melted Tomatoes, Olives, Marjoram ($32.00). And somehow, I wasn’t fully
pace during the later part of the evening.
blown away by the dish. Overall, it was a great dining experience given the circumstances that I could see where the flavours were going with this dish. The olives and
they are still new. I am truly happy that Philippa is back guiding the helm in
melted tomatoes brought a rather sharp acidic and sweet explosion to the
the kitchen.
palate, but I found the soft polenta a little bit too overpowering. I struggled to finish this main.
*Disclaimer: All food ratings & review are purely based on my own experiences and how I feel about the service, food and quality at the time
The Boy, upon hearing the Special of the Day which was a Tri-Tip Wagyu
of visit.
Beef ($37.00), instantly placed an order for it. The tri-tip of the wagyu beef is one of the most tender parts of the beef (we were told) and for this version,
Food/ Cuisine: Mediterranean
it was pan seared to medium rare and served with capers, garlic, anchovies,
Dining Style: Restaurant & Wine Bar
mushrooms, parsley and sautéed potatoes.
Overall Food Rating (based on the dining style): 7.25/10 (9.5 for the Snickers!)
Knowing and having experienced Philippa’s genius in the kitchen in terms of
Restaurant ambiance: 7.5/10 (Large wide open space)
desserts, we knew to save some room for our last course. We had previously
Service/ Attitude: 7.5/10
agreed to order one dessert to share between the both of us, but due to the
Value for money: 7/10 (Although food was a tad pricey and slightly above
heavy rain outside, we decided to change our plans to bide our time whilst
the average, the price of wines was definitely a hoot and very reasonable.
waiting for the rain to subside.
The wine carafe would be highly recommended as well)
Hence we placed an order for the very very, very rich Truffled Honey Panna
Opening Hours:
Cotta, Candied Cashews ($12.00). Seriously, if you are a truffle fan (and
Monday to Thursday: 9am – 12am
I most definitely do not mean chocolate truffles), you have to order this
Friday to Saturday: 9am – 1am
heavily infused truffle flavoured panna cotta. It is utterly rich with the fungus
Sunday: 9am – 11pm
27
SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON life on mars (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
28
Life on Mars 842 Glenferrie Road, Hawthorn. Ph: 9078 8663 Words and photos by I’m so hungree
ABOUT IM SO HUNGREE I am a Melbournite with a penchant for sweets, eating my way around Melbourne (and the world!). I love good food and photography. I also suffer from ‘Oooh Shiny Thing!’ syndrome. My blog is my pretty eating diary and focuses on eating out experiences. I hope you all enjoy reading as much as I enjoy sharing!
SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
www.imsohungree.blogspot.com
Life on Mars. It had me at its name, which is named after the David
Brad opted for poached eggs hollandaise with mushrooms and spinach.
Bowie song of the same name (thanks Claire!). I’m quietly (or maybe not
His eggs were cooked perfectly, although he did comment that the
so? You tell me!) affectionate for quirky little things. It makes life more
hollandaise tasted a little vinegary. I didn’t taste it so I can’t comment to
interesting that way y’know? I also had a running joke with high school
confirm or not. Otherwise we loved the mushrooms too!
friends that I am actually in fact, a martian, since I was always the weird one. Apparently.
And you must understand why, I was much too busy getting stuck into my duck egg frittata. Frittatas confuse me. They’re slightly different
Anyway, so into Brad’s Nissan space ship we climbed one weekend and
everywhere you go. At home, our frittatas are like vegetable and egg
away to Mars we went.
cakes. Or as big at least and so you can cut out a fat slice to indulge in.
So Mars can apparently be found on Glenferrie Road, close to the Barker
At Life on Mars, it’s obviously much thinner and not quite what I am
Street end. Wait... it didn’t take light years to get here...
accustomed to, although it is still quite delightful. There was cheese on the frittata that although subtle, was totally moreish, giving the duck egg
I was quite surprised that it wasn’t too busy this morning, so we were
a slightly richer flavour. I quite enjoyed it.
immediately able to get a seat. Life on Mars is quite cosy, with a mish mash of different coloured wood, freshened with some wall hanging pot plants… slightly akin to Axil just a bit further down the road. As always, latte for Brad, soy chai for me – although it did take a little while to come to us, considering the place was fairly quiet. Maybe time on Mars is counted differently?
On the way out, I freaked out when I saw that they sold Macarons by Josephine, which I had last at Friends of Mine with Bryan and promptly bought a few on the way out which I scoffed down in Brad’s spaceship.
Brad commented that his latte was quite good, and good it did look, with what looked like perfectly creamy and bubble free milk.
On the way out, I freaked out when I saw that they sold Macarons by Josephine, which I had last at Friends of Mine with Bryan and promptly
My chai wasn’t too bad, the milk was indeed quite full and well frothed,
bought a few on the way out which I scoffed down in Brad’s spaceship.
but it was, unfortunately, made with vitasoy and lately I have been spoilt on bonsoy. I wouldn’t have minded my chai to be a little spicier as well,
All in all, I’m curious to see how well Life on Mars will do. Although I didn’t
just a touch more flavour would have been good!
feel it has the ‘hip’ factor that many of the popular cafés do, the food and coffees are, overall, good quality. Only time will tell and maybe next time,
The menu selection at Life on Mars is fairly small and succinct.
I’ll eat my words at it not being as ‘hip’ and not be able to get a table…
29
WINE REVIEWS Words and photo by Krystina Menegazzo
ABOUT KRYSTINA MENEGAZZO La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who completed her winemaking degree whilst being a gypsy working in vintages throughout Australia and Italy. Finally she decided to return home and sell wine instead. In her spare time she cooks, eats, drinks buon vino and is a self-confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).
www.ladonnadelvino.com
HODDLES CREEK ESTATE Pinot Blanc 2010
asked, gazing down at me with his warm brown eyes. He held a bottle of the
Upper Yarra Valley, Victoria. RRP $35
Cristo di Campobello ‘Laluci’ Grillo. Perching himself by my side, he began pouring the wine into a glass when… I woke up. I was back in Melbourne.
If there is one thing I have learned about Hoddles Creek Estate wines, it’s that
What a gem of a story that could have been if it were true. I bought the wine
you better snap up their bargains when you get the chance. After working
from a wine store. But fear not! The thrill of this wine lies in its capacity to
the grape harvest there back in 2006, I realised there was, and still is, a fair
offer the classic grillo grape vibrancy to that gaping hole between the ears.
amount of hype about their wines. Why? Perhaps it is because they offer the
This Grillo holds a tight line with its lemony acidity and more citron-like
best in value for their Victorian Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. However even
bite, but this quality means it extends a generous, mouthwatering element
their Pinot Blanc, a newer addition planted in 1997 with its first vintage only
at the same time. This juicy palate completes a picture postcard summer
in 2008, already has a loyal following. Hence I made sure to snap up a six-
day seated in, say, a flowering courtyard, or if you’re really lucky, with a
pack as soon as it went on sale in March last year. The great thing about six-
gorgeous Sicilian by the beach, with its acacia florals and orange blossom
packs or dozens is that with patience, you get to witness a wine’s evolution.
honey nuances. I’ll work on the latter for next time.
This may be somewhat askew, but I could not help but think of Hans Christian Andersen’s beautiful story, ‘The Ugly Duckling’ [1844], as a way of describing
QUERCIABELLA Chianti Classico 2008
the development this wine has been displaying.
Tuscany, Italy. RRP $30
Upon receiving my delivery, I ripped open the box to find six youthful, slender bottles gazing up at me. My babies. The first night and I had already
There is something to be said for the winemaking craft and how to obtain
cracked the seal on my first ‘duckling’. It had only been hatched from its tank
that coveted balance, especially in not so desirable vintage conditions. In
into bottle a few weeks earlier so was dulled from the shock of this process.
some areas, the 2008 Tuscan vintage falls under that category with the bout
As a result, it had a prickly, unkempt feather texture that stood out against
of summer drought. I’m not sure what the team at Querciabella did that
the food. Not ugly in the least, but in need of a little time to build structure
year to cope, whether it be their low harvest yields, organic/biodynamic
into its wings.
vineyards or blending expertise of predominantly Sangiovese with 5%
Some months later I brought my next ‘duckling’ over to a friend’s place for
Cabernet Sauvignon, but they did it expertly.
dinner. This time, the bottle’s contents were calmed and the wine eager
The syncing of the various components in wine had me harking back to
to please. The palate had lost the awkward spiking sensation and instead
family summer days by the beach. I would tread the sand towards the water,
displayed feathers that were soft, dry, and gently brushing the mid-palate
smile on my face, hair whipped back in the wind. Once I was knee-deep in,
with white nectarine and subtle wintersweet flavours.
out of the corner of my duck-like peripheral vision, I would suddenly detect
Only last week, I arrived at what I thought was the third ‘duckling’ and as
my two dear brothers five metres away on either side, bracing themselves
the story goes, discovered that I had actually brought forth a beautiful swan.
with fistfuls of wet sand. It was a combination of their timing, direction,
Wings assertively spread wide, with delicate white florals and white peach
determination and my lack of agility that allowed them to get me every time.
aromas proudly enveloping its drinker, its mature feathers finally swathed
Querciabella’s combination has worked here too. This is a redolent wine
through the mouth like silk. Good things do come to those who wait.
expressing a delightful bouquet of black forest fruits, nutmeg and raspberry vincotto. This Chianti has structure, but is not dominated by its use of oak.
CRISTO DI CAMPOBELLO Grillo ‘Laluci’ 2010
Instead there is a beautiful balance here with black cherry and plum fruits,
Sicily, Italy. RRP $30
ground coffee beans against a thread of vincotto, finished by a characteristic gentleness that good quality Chianti brings when placed in the right hands.
I closed my eyes, lifted the glass of crystalline Grillo wine to my lips and
These days, I no longer fear being bombarded with wet sand, but I too
heaved a deep sigh. There I was, sunbathing on a foldout chair surrendering
no longer fear for the future of good quality Chianti – especially when there
myself to the warm Mediterranean sun on the southwest coast of Sicily. A
are producers like Querciabella, or even Castello di Ama, Poggerino and
handsome, young Italian waiter had sashayed over after noticing that I had
Isole e Olena, who are making their distinctive and beautiful mark on the
been fanning myself. “Would la signora like a glass of Sicilian Grillo?” he
Tuscan landscape.
31
NOTICEBOARD
Family-owned manufacturers of premium quality antipasti including dried, char-grilled and marinated vegetables and olives, pestos and marinated cheese
“From our kitchen to your table” Ask for our products at your favourite deli/supermarket and for additional hand made specialty products come and see us at our shop located at: 11 Norwich Ave Thomastown Vic Ph: 9462 2207 Fax: 9469 3787 www.palomba-antipasti.com.au Wed-Fri 9am-3pm and Sat 8.30am-12.30pm
SCAN TAG To FIND oUT MoRE
A CULTURAL LOVE AFFAIR We’ll keep you informed about Italian food, wine and cultural events going on around Australia and in Italy. Packed with authentic regional recipes, wine reviews and features on Italian restaurants and chefs both in Italy and Australia.
NOW ONLINE italianicious.com.au Italianicious Magazine
ItalianiciousEd
SCAN TAG TO FIND OUT MORE
Gram is available at 1000 venues around Melbourne CBD DISTRIBUTOR LIST BLOCK PLACE
Bistrot D’Orsay
Lord of the Fries
Tazio Birraria Pizzeria
Brown Sugar Café
Blue Bag
Piazza Vittoria
Terra Rossa
Café E Biscotti
Box on Collins
Spiga
The Trust
Café Negrita
Café Esc
The Garden Café
Verge
Café Segovia
Charles Dickens Tavern
Tropicana
Wagamama Yak Bar
Collins Quarter BOURKE STREET
Degani Café Bakery
EXHIBITION STREET
Aljisen Ramen
Egons Café Bakery
1806
FLINDERS STREET
Banc Café
Feeling Fruity
65 Degrees Café
Bertha Brown
Bottega Restaurant
Gadjo
Café Multitude
Desi Dhaba
Butchers Grill
Gloria Jeans
Coopers Inn
Kikoo Sushi
Ca De Vin
In A Rush
Decoy Café
Kitaya
Café Euro
Koko Black
Eleven 37
La Stazione
Café On Bourke
Lindt Café
Es-X Café
Nandos
Café Tono
Macchiato Sushi Bar
European Bier Café
Phoenix Bar
Cafenatics
Momo
Locanda
Press Club
Caffee Gauge
Morgan
Schnitz
The Forum
Carlton Club
Negroni Bar and Grill
Tower Sushi
Degani’s
Paris End Café
Sushi Burger The Maj Café (Her Majesty’s Theatre)
Donatos Café
Plane Tree Café
Toby’s Estate
Young and Jacksons Pub
Earl Canteen
Roozervelts
Trunk Bar and Café
Elephant and Wheelbarrow
Sheni’s Curries
Urban Deli
Florentino Bar
Silk Road
Gloria Jeans
Spice Market
EXPLORATION LANE
GPO Café
Strozzi
League of Honest Coffee
Hudson’s
Summit Café and Bar
Imperial Hotel
Switchboard Café
FLINDERS LANE
Aloi Na
Ito Noodle Café
The Brazilian Bean
101 Café bar
Basic Bites`
Izakaya Hachbeh
The Kitchen Cat
Adelphi
Campari House
Korova
The Sherlock Holmes
Bisq
Charlies Bar
La Tazzina
The Trust
Bluestone
Creperie Le Triskel
La’More docklands
Treasury Rest and Bar
Breadwell
Khokolat Bar
Lanes Edge Bar
Tutti In Piazza
Brunetti (City Square)
La La Land
Langleys Café
Zuffa
Bull and Bear Tavern
Max Café Bar
Movida Terrazza
Zuroona Café
Café 53
POP Restaurant and Bar
Café Rema
Settebello
Nando’s
Waterside Hotel
FRANKLIN STREET Miss Libertine HARDWARE LANE Affogato
Nixon Hotel
DEGRAVES STREET
Cafenatics
Tastebuds of Melbourne
Nudel Bar
Barber on Degraves
Cecconis
The Mill
Pellegrinis
Café Andiamo
Chin Chin
Vialetto Restaurant
Red Violin
Degraves Espresso
City Library Café
Romano’s
Grilld
Coda Bar Restaurant
HOSIER LANE
Royal Melbourne Hotel
Issu
Coffee Eclipse
Misty
Salida
Little Cupcakes
Crema Espresso Bar
Movida
Shuji Sushi
Sea Salt
Cumulus
Society Restaurant
The Quarter
Friends Café
LA TROBE STREET
Spaghetti Tree
TOFWD Deli
Full Plate Café
Basement @ 350 Latrobe
Glicks
Blaq Café Bar
Spleen Bar Squires Loft Steakhouse
ELIZABETH STREET
Il Cubico Café
Breeze Café
Street Café
Café Scalletti
KCL
Café Nostimo
The Bund
Café Victoria
Lustre Lounge
Cafenatics on Latrobe
The Harbour Kitchen
Citi Noodle Café
Nighcat Bar
Club Chef
The Mess Hall
Coffea
Overdraft Café
Coffee Academy
Tuscan Bar Grill
Edelweiss Café
Papa Goose
Duke of Kent Hotel
Twenty Seconds Café
Food Inc
Purple Emerald
Frescatis Fine Foods
Watermark
Global Gossip
Roasted Coffee Bar
Internet Café
Hudsons
Rosati
Kanda sushi Noodle Bar
COLLINS STREET
Hudsons Coffee
Superfino
Klik Food and Drink
Alfreds Place Café
Jasper Kitchen
Swiss Club Victoria
Latrobe Café
Mr Tulk (State Library north)
Saki Sushi Bar
Oriental Spoon
NEWQUAY PROMENADE
Stellini Bar
Spicy Noodle Café
Café Medici
Tengo Sushi
William Angliss Bistro
Fish Bar
Terrace Deli
Liquid Bar Café
Un Caffe Bar
Live Bait
LITTLE BOURKE STREET Bar Humbug
Mecca Bar
Claypot King Crown Café Bakery Druids Café Bar Easy Way Tea GiGi Sushi Bar Gogo Sushi Hi Fi Bar and Ballroom
LITTLE LONSDALE STREET
The Lounge room
1000 Pound Bend
Café 600 (Hotel Ibis)
Vic Harbour Kitchen
166 Espresso Bar
Nando’s
Ishiya Stonegrill Dining
Waterside Oriental Bistro
Angliss Restaurant
Korean BBQ Buffet
Café 111
Old Town
Kri Kri
RANKINS LANE
Café 18
Oxford Scholar
La Di Da
Manchester Press
Don Too
Little B
Equinox
Soul Café
Longrain
RUSSELL STREET
Gianni Luncheon
Mezzo Bar and Grill
A1 Café Restaurant
Giraffe Café
Mrs Parmas
Bean Room
Horse Bazaar
Plus 39 Pizza
Blu Point Café
Il Vicoletto
Punch Lane
Café 294
Koukos Café
Scugnizzo
Chill On Café
Match
Section 8 (Chinatown)
Chilli Café
Modo Mio Café
Shuji Sushi
China Bar
Oddfellows Hotel
SMXL Café
Hawkers Café
Rue Bebelons
Softbelly Bar
Infinity Café Bar
Seamstress
Sorry Grandma
Ishikai Japanese café
Shop 7 Espresso
Sushi & Bon Apetit
Izakaya Den (Basement)
Strike
The Apartment
James Squire Brewhouse
Troika Bar
Vine Café Bar
King of Kings
York Café
Postal Hall
La Stradda Café
LONSDALE STREET
Red Hummingbird (doorway next to Baraki)
Metropolitan Hotel
LITTLE COLLINS STREET
Slate
Aspro Ble
Seoul House
The Mint
Basso
Babbo
Syn Bar
Bridie O Reilly’s
Baguette Club
Teppansan
QUEEN STREET
Brisq
Baraki
Two Fingers
Bellini (ANZ Building)
Cacao Fine Chocolates
Club Retro
Won Ton House
Chaise Lounge
Café De Tuscany
Colonial Hotel
Zmeg’s Café
Degani
Caffe e Torto
Degani’s
Champagne Lounge
Demi Tasse
SPENCER STREET
Michaelangelo
Chestnut exchange Café
El Gran
Carron Tavern
Muleta’s
Council House 2
Emerald Peacock
Pensione Hotel
Nashi
Elevenses
Encore Café Bar
Brother Baba Budan
Bar Lourinha
Exchange Coffee Famish’d Fiddler Pub
Melbourne Town Hall Nelayan Indonesian
Riverland Bar Starbucks Sushi Sushi The Lounge The Order The Wine Bar Three Below Time Out Café Transport/Transit Your Thai Rice Noodle Yoyogi WILLIAM STREET Illia Café and Bar
Mercat Cross Hotel
Nourish
Golden Monkey
SPRING STREET
Romano’s
Hikari Sushi
Appitizer Kubklam
Segafredo Speck
J Walk Café
Café 201
Gills Diner
Japanese Pub Shogun
City Wine Shop
Guava Bean
Kenny’s Bakery
Elms Family Hotel
Hairy Canary
LatteLove Café
Federici Café
Hudson’s
Le Traiteur
Hudson’s
Irish Times Pub
Legals Café Bar Little Café on Healeys Lane
Lime Café Bar
Kartel Kitten Club
Madame Kay’s
Mammas Boy
Urban Deli
SWANSTON STREET
Menzies Tavern
Wheat Restaurant Bar
3 Below
Oriental Tea House
MELBOURNE
ISSUE 12
FREE
The European
Beer Deluxe
Ortigia Pizzeria
MEYERS PLACE
Café Chinotto
Pony
Lily Blacks
Café L’Incontro
Quists Coffee
Loop
Café Mimo
Rare Steakhouse
Waiters Restaurant
Citi Espresso
There are an additional 780 distributors around Melbourne. For the full list, visit our website at www.gram.net.au.
35
Putting romance back into coffee.
WIN
We take coffee seriously. Not ourselves.
some dc coffee for your valentine! Just follow @DucaleCoffee and tweet ‘My valentine deserves some dc coffee!’ Scan this tag to enter.
www.ducale.com.au
1300 DUCALE (1300 382 253)